# jools' mk1 TT 225 Build thread



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Thought I would start a build thread on my 2002 Misano Red Roadster 225 purchased for the wife in May 2016

Piccie of car when first purchased


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

At this point of ownership the wife wasn't really getting along with the car and I was losing interest fast in my Autovogue 335D 400bhp/850nm .( Hence user name )
So I sold the beemer and took on the TT .

Autovogue 335D


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

autovogue335d said:


> At this point of ownership the wife wasn't really getting along with the car and I was losing interest fast in my Autovogue 335D 400bhp/850nm .( Hence user name )
> So I sold the beemer and took on the TT .
> 
> Autovogue 335D


Are you in Australia by any chance :wink: :lol:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Car didn't stay std for long as it snapped a rear tie bar , so after a short journey on the back of an AA wagon the search began to make the car stronger and more reliable .
Having purchased some cookbot adjustables I thought in for a penny in for a pound so bought some KW inox V1 coilovers , cookbot front bushes , H&R anti roll bars and fully polybushing all round ( Black series ) and 4 wheel alignment .

All fitted and the car was much improved handling wise but lacked grunt so I went about purchasing a 2nd hand Full 3" turbo back milltek off ebay for £600 , I fitted the WMI I had took off the 335d and fitted a badger 5 TIP , wakbox with pipercross filter and Dv008 .
Then off for mapping to Big Fish Tuning .
Car was poorly with a smoky turbo so a mild map @ 1.5 bar max making 273bhp/272 lbft


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

YELLOW_TT said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > At this point of ownership the wife wasn't really getting along with the car and I was losing interest fast in my Autovogue 335D 400bhp/850nm .( Hence user name )
> ...


Don't know why it done that


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

At this stage with a poorly turbo I had already made my mind up to go Ko4-380 but wanted to sort other bits and bobs first so next on the shopping list was some Porsche 996 turbo calipers with Golf R32 x/drilled and grooved discs and DS 2500 pads up front with same rear but discs were S4 300mm with std caliper


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Wmi install in boot


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

Liking the way this is going 

Best colour as well 

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

About 9 months into ownership and the TT started going through a funny phase of parts failures.
First I had issues with the alternator which turned out to be the amplifier , cheap fix , bastard to get at so whilst stripping a lot of parts off I decided whilst in there to delete pcv stuff and vent to atmosphere as Ifound a couple of splits in the pipes .

Also went about replacing All boost hoses / vac hoses , carbon canister hoses with nice new Red hoses from Forge or creation motorsport , again not cheap but looks good and piece of mind . Hose clamps were replaced with mikalor stuff in readiness for big boost .

Coilpacks were replaced too as they were a mix n match of oem and cheap ebay Chinese ones , after a bit of price searching I found the RED top R8 coils with adaptors from Awesome gti cheaper than oem stuff @ £97.
Whilst ordering these I settled on some Porsche oil and water caps and got the shiny shiny de baffled Forge turbo pipe 
Pics to follow for this one


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Having fitted the Porsche Brembos and S4 rears I wasn't liking the look of the car with the wheels so the search was on for some new boots .
I always liked the look of jim cottons of awesome gti TT back in the day with BBS CH Motorsport wheels and as luck would have it a guy was selling some genuine 19" wheels on ebay .
After a bit of haggling I got them for £600 with tyres .

On full inspection getting home the tyres wernt the best and were 215/35/19 so bank card back out and 4 new Michelin pilot 3 from black circles wer bought in a slightly better 225/35/19


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Having previously owning a 3.2 Roadster and hating everything about it .........almost , there was 3 bits on the car I liked over the std 225 
Front bumper, rear spoiler and rear diffuser

Rear diffuser I got from ebay and I didn't particularly want to start removing the spoiler as I've heard its a PITA to do so I settled for a carbon fibre extension . Front bumper will have to wait for now as I have better things to spend £700 on


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

If you keep n eye out you should pick up a V6 bumper with all the grills for about £500/550 I paid £520 for mine even had a front grill fitted


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

nice updates. im the same i want a v6 but even for 500 im a bit like [smiley=bigcry.gif] if one comes up at the right time in my colour i will pull the trigger for sure.

where did you get it mapped by the way?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> nice updates. im the same i want a v6 but even for 500 im a bit like [smiley=bigcry.gif] if one comes up at the right time in my colour i will pull the trigger for sure.
> 
> where did you get it mapped by the way?


It was mapped June 2017 by Big Fish Tuning in Stokesley .
Due to boost leaks from pcv it made 237 bhp , once sorted 273 bhp on 1.5 bar dropping off to 1.1 bar at red line on a slightly smoky turbo


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Time to bring this build upto date .
Suspension done ....check
Brakes done ........check
Wheels and new rubber .......check

All that's left is to get that tired ass k04 turbo off the car and drop in some rods .
So this arrived 3 weeks ago

Badger5/AET k04/380 , china fold mani , I.e rifle drilled rods , ACL race bearings ,Boshe 550 cc injectors , DW 65 race pump 









I also decided to ditch the twin smic for better flow and went for an Airtec fmic



















Also bought in readiness is 
New 4 Bar FPR
New maf 
New N75 
New map sensor 
New NGK 7 plugs 
New Thermostat

The head was sent off 2weeks ago for a very very light skim , std valves lapped back in and new double cut stem valve seals to be fitted , 
Now this is back the rebuild commences

More pics soon to follow


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Better front view of Airtec fitted










K04 V Hybrid


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

autovogue335d said:


> Better front view of Airtec fitted
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> ...


Nice thread so far but holy shit this picture worries me so much... Your arm has been set by the jig to be right in the middle of the threaded portion yet mine is 3/4 towards the end :?... How can 2 turbos be so different?

Also you should up load a picture of compressor wheel, hot-side inlet and outlet because it's interesting to see


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Forgot to mention I had a Haldex 50/50 insert fitted when Haldex oil change was done 500 miles ago .

Also managed to bend a front strut after some spirited driving , not good publicity for KW tbh , was surprised to say the least when it happened


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > Better front view of Airtec fitted
> ...


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## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

This is a really nice set up.... would it be out of order to ask about cost's ... PM me if you can, Thanks


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

pistons and rods coming out this afternoon


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ady117 said:


> This is a really nice set up.... would it be out of order to ask about cost's ... PM me if you can, Thanks


Which part of build . Engine ? OR Start to finish ?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

As with all builds this ones not without its problems.
Dropped rods and pistons out this afternoon , went to rebuild the I.E rods and ACL race bearings onto the pistons and it turns out Bill has sent me main bearings NOT big end bearings 

This part number is main bearings









Invoice clearly states big end bearings 









Puts my build back a few days :evil:

Luckily Bill picked the phone up on a sunday and big end bearings should be with me no later than wednesday


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## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

the whole thing would be nice and a break down of costs... it's great to see you do this car and other would like to follow im sure


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## Horlixx (Aug 13, 2017)

autovogue335d said:


> Forgot to mention I had a Haldex 50/50 insert fitted when Haldex oil change was done 500 miles ago .
> 
> Also managed to bend a front strut after some spirited driving , not good publicity for KW tbh , was surprised to say the least when it happened


What's your verdict on the haldex insert, made any noticeable difference?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ady117 said:


> the whole thing would be nice and a break down of costs... it's great to see you do this car and other would like to follow im sure


Unfortunately I don't keep the invoices once fitted as through years of experience warrantys on parts are hard to prove failure of part and not failure of correct fitment/ running in process etc etc ( Wriggle worse than snakes on warranty issues suppliers )
All I can do is give ball park figures as not all was bought new but where needed oem / Bosche parts or better were sourced.

Also I have a lot of contacts so full prices were NOT nescessarily paid but I will give you an approx. MINUS labour costs.
Once again its who you know 

I would say in total so far the price of a very nice low mileage QS........... plus labour


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Horlixx said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > Forgot to mention I had a Haldex 50/50 insert fitted when Haldex oil change was done 500 miles ago .
> ...


Not really had chance to exploit it TBH , car seems less bucking bronco on hard acceleration / gear changes( smoother/flatter) and on loose gravel its permenant 4 wheel drive without having to think about it ...if you know what I mean .

£50 well spent regardless :lol:


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

autovogue335d said:


> Forgot to mention I had a Haldex 50/50 insert fitted when Haldex oil change was done 500 miles ago .
> 
> Also managed to bend a front strut after some spirited driving , not good publicity for KW tbh , was surprised to say the least when it happened


Considering that these are not advertised as two bob items, you don't expect them to made out of marzipan


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

It's going the way of a certain yellow Ibiza...


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > Forgot to mention I had a Haldex 50/50 insert fitted when Haldex oil change was done 500 miles ago .
> ...


And needless to say they blamed it on 
A/ incorrect fitment
B/Not being used for the purpose/spec that the part was built for ..ABUSE in other words.

However they were happy to relieve me of another £330


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

auspicious_character said:


> It's going the way of a certain yellow Ibiza...


LOL someone knows me I think


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

old rods /old pistons










Old pistons /new rods


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ACL Race Big end bearings turned up today.Thanks Bill @ Badger 5 for turning this around so quickly.
Build can commence once again , hoping to have piston/Rods back in and turbo mounted ready for head tomorrow night .
Hoping to have this up and running for Friday

Pencilled in for mappin on 10th , gives me just a week to get it ran in


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Pistons cleaned up lovely , no marks , scoring or detonation , piston rings look like new and all 4 bores are unmarked .
Not bad at all for a 102k mile car .
Piccie of I.e rods and old Pistons made up prior to fitting


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

What oil are people using on the more powerful tuned TT's , gonna need some decent stuff very soon ???


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

autovogue335d said:


> Pistons cleaned up lovely , no marks , scoring or detonation , piston rings look like new and all 4 bores are unmarked .
> Not bad at all for a 102k mile car .
> Piccie of I.e rods and old Pistons made up prior to fitting


Did you compression test the car before hand and did the readings confirm what you've visually seen (I.E. Very high PSI readings)?



autovogue335d said:


> What oil are people using on the more powerful tuned TT's , gonna need some decent stuff very soon ???


People usually say a decent 5w/40 and not 30 as it's too thin when running so much power and heat.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > Pistons cleaned up lovely , no marks , scoring or detonation , piston rings look like new and all 4 bores are unmarked .
> ...


Didn't feel the need to do a compression test as visual check backs up power made before dismantling 273bhp on 22.5 psi.

was thinking more of a 5-50 oil for dealing with temperature better.

used mobil 1 0-40 prior to build and thought it was a bit too thin tbh


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Pistons and rods back in and torqued down as per I.E specification 50 ftlb


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Can't believe that strut bending like it did, do you have a lot of pot holes or speed humps by you.
I use Millers CFS 10W40 in my car, used by a lot of people with serious power 1.8t cars and it's a proper fully synthetic , full ester oil . A bit pricey at around £50 for 5l but you can get it cheaper in the sales and special events.
I think you would be better off fitting an oil cooler rather than putting oil in that is thicker in the hope that it won't turn into water when the engine gets wound up. These engines work the oil really hard especially in the turbo and cooler oil going to the turbo will help to keep it in one piece. That great big intercooler will make it more tricky to mount an oil cooler in the front but they can be mounted in the wings under the headlights where the SMIC's used to live.
I found the cheapest place for Mocal thermostatic oil coolers was Matt Lewis Racing.

http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

50 is more for 300bhp+ track cars that are beaten for long periods and never see the road really, 40 is more than fine. 5w/40 has been used for many years from 400-550bhp S3's over on audi-sport.net so I stick to what I've read over there from the guys with years of experience.

Maybe I'd consider 50 if I lived in Aus' but chance would be a fine thing.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

autovogue335d said:


> ACL Race Big end bearings turned up today.Thanks Bill @ Badger 5 for turning this around so quickly.
> Build can commence once again , hoping to have piston/Rods back in and turbo mounted ready for head tomorrow night .
> Hoping to have this up and running for Friday
> 
> Pencilled in for mappin on 10th , gives me just a week to get it ran in


Where are you having it mapped as I am not sure removing the fuse disables the Haldex if you have a powertrack insert in there. If it doesn't you will have to run on a 4wd dyno. I was meaning to pull the fuse on mine and see if it runs in FWD only.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

PowerTrack insert doesn't change this behaviour, pulling the fuse still results in FWD only.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Can't believe that strut bending like it did, do you have a lot of pot holes or speed humps by you.
> I use Millers CFS 10W40 in my car, used by a lot of people with serious power 1.8t cars and it's a proper fully synthetic , full ester oil . A bit pricey at around £50 for 5l but you can get it cheaper in the sales and special events.
> I think you would be better off fitting an oil cooler rather than putting oil in that is thicker in the hope that it won't turn into water when the engine gets wound up. These engines work the oil really hard especially in the turbo and cooler oil going to the turbo will help to keep it in one piece. That great big intercooler will make it more tricky to mount an oil cooler in the front but they can be mounted in the wings under the headlights where the SMIC's used to live.
> I found the cheapest place for Mocal thermostatic oil coolers was Matt Lewis Racing.
> ...


Good info/feedback there mate cheers , will look at getting the millers oil or smiler with ester .

Oil cooler will be something to look at for sure , gonna have a couple of shake downs at my local circuits ( craft and Teesside auto drone ) before punishing it at Nurburgring in July .

No potholes causing strut to bend , it was more of getting airborn at xxx mph and 1500kg of car landing on the front o/s . Still shouldn't have bent like that Imo .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> autovogue335d said:
> 
> 
> > ACL Race Big end bearings turned up today.Thanks Bill @ Badger 5 for turning this around so quickly.
> ...


Pulling fuse is fine with insert as its been mapped previously/recently and all was well running it in fwd


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> PowerTrack insert doesn't change this behaviour, pulling the fuse still results in FWD only.


CORRECT :lol:


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Good to know about the powertrack insert on a dyno. I can see why the strut may have bent if the car was flying and touched down on the one wheel. That is a massive amount of load, well above what you would normally see. Fortunately nothing actually broke as that wouldn't have been good.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

I've cancelled my slot next Friday for mapping as I feel it's a bit rushed at the moment the cars still not fully built or ran in yet so it's looking more likely to be end of November now


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Good move, no point in mapping it if it's not 100% as you want it to be. The dyno and tuner will still be there at the end of the month.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

If it makes you feel any better, mine was supposed to be finished in summer 2016 [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well having slowed the pace down a bit on the build due to mapping deadline being pushed back , today was not without its issues so probably a good idea to have cancelled Friday 10th .

Lambda probe fouling manifold










Few other pics of head gasket and Headbolts being torqued down



















Special turbo lube










Cylinder head on , intake mani on as well as a few other bits , starting to see light at the end of the tunnel now .


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

How do you plan on sorting the Lambda sensor. Welding another boss on the downpipe would enable you to move the sensor to a different point


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> How do you plan on sorting the Lambda sensor. Welding another boss on the downpipe would enable you to move the sensor to a different point


Just bent it enough out the way , heat sleeve going over the top and hopefully when it fires up theres no lambda faults registering


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well the cars all built up , std injectors left in on 4 bar for now and water meth not connected for initial running in .
I completed 250 miles today . first 100 mile below 2k revs , 2nd 100 mile above 2krevs no higher than 4k revs boosting turbo up and plenty of engine braking , and last 50 mile driving normally but going no higher than 5k revs .

EML light comes on when boosting to 5k revs and power is cut back so cant be driven too aggresivly till correctly mapped .
I know someones gonna post up you should run it in like this and that at certain mileage but at the end of the day its had a set of rods and bearings dropped in .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Also sacked of my preferred tuner as he was messing me about with dates and whining on saying he hadn't done one of these turbo's before ( Yes he is a mapper and it shouldn't be an issue ) and would need the car for a week or more .
Yeah went down that route with him last year on my 335D and he had it 3 months. 

SO

Its booked in at Badger 5 on 22/11/17


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## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

autovogue335d said:


> Also sacked of my preferred tuner as he was messing me about with dates and whining on saying he hadn't done one of these turbo's before ( Yes he is a mapper and it shouldn't be an issue ) and would need the car for a week or more .
> Yeah went down that route with him last year on my 335D and he had it 3 months.
> 
> SO
> ...


.

Thats why Im looking into going down the mapping route myself and just doing the 1.8t platform... pure frustration of not finding anyone that can just say "yes, know them well... bring your TT down and we will see what we can do for you"


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Bad John.
Although we are all so happy after visiting him.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

auspicious_character said:


> Bad John.
> Although we are all so happy after visiting him.


Not all the time


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Today I decided to take some weight off the car , front and rear crash bars , rear counterweight, rear toe bar , spare wheel kit and triangle


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> EML light comes on when boosting to 5k revs and power is cut back so cant be driven too aggresivly till correctly mapped .


Finally got round to checking any fault codes being thrown up and results were 
17695 = N249 /N75 ( N249 removed and N75 is new )
17704 = water temp sensor ( order new sensor Monday )
16487 = Maf signal too high ( hoping this is due to not being mapped correctly as its new , clears ok and doesn't come back unless always come on when pushing it up to the 5k rev line )

Also getting a grinding noise from N/S/F , noticed a split in the CV boot so further investigation needed by my mechanic.

On a positive note I got a little enthusiastic with the LOUD pedal for a split second giving it full throttle up to 5K revs , looked at my Liquid guage and its telling me I hit 350bhp , might not be a true value but looks promising .

Must refrain from doing this again :evil:


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Liking the weight saving, did the same minus the crash bars which is what I'd like to address.

Why did you do this on a road car? A decent portion of accidents are low-speed bumps. In which case you'll end up having your front or rear bumper crush coke can style and need a new bumper for the sake of 2kg weight saving front and rear. If you'd have kept the crash bar could have got a way with maybe T-Cutting the plastic or paying a professional £50.

Am I missing something? I totally get the benefit to be had, I am all for weight-saving but would seem more suited to a track where the crash bar isn't going to make a difference because if you have an off then you're really off, same goes for a crash on track.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> Liking the weight saving, did the same minus the crash bars which is what I'd like to address.
> 
> Why did you do this on a road car? A decent portion of accidents are low-speed bumps. In which case you'll end up having your front or rear bumper crush coke can style and need a new bumper for the sake of 2kg weight saving front and rear. If you'd have kept the crash bar could have got a way with maybe T-Cutting the plastic or paying a professional £50.
> 
> Am I missing something? I totally get the benefit to be had, I am all for weight-saving but would seem more suited to a track where the crash bar isn't going to make a difference because if you have an off then you're really off, same goes for a crash on track.


The car is 50/50 Track and road that's why and in the roadster every little helps , but also want to keep it OEM looking from the outside for summer days out with mrs jools
Annual mileage wont exceed 3k and its off the road for winter when most people are sliding into the back end .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Got to the bottom of the grinding noise .
DP Flexi rubbing on propshaft , so not good .
Back up on the ramps tomorrow to see if it can be jigged over , don't know why its catching all of a sudden , all I can say is the K04-380 isn't quite the direct fit (like for like ) I thought it was going to be as I also had Lambda clearance issues too .


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

to much engine movement, what condition is the dogbone in :?:


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> Got to the bottom of the grinding noise .
> DP Flexi rubbing on propshaft , so not good .
> Back up on the ramps tomorrow to see if it can be jigged over , don't know why its catching all of a sudden , all I can say is the K04-380 isn't quite the direct fit (like for like ) I thought it was going to be as I also had Lambda clearance issues too .


Hi mate,

I can help here on this issue. Happened to me too, I'm sure your prop has a lovely silver patch on it now haha!

Don't worry about it too much though, I replaced my prop to be on the safe side but likely unnecessary. So yeah, just cut out a notch like you would a tree, bend ever so slightly and weld up, it needs only a small amount and it probably hurts flow hardly anything at all!

It's the manifold that causes everything to be slightly out of line not the turbo, darn Chinese JBS piece of crap :lol:!

Good to hear about the crash-bars, the TT is my daily and I usually assume it's the same for everyone else too. I see why you've taken the semi gamble of removing them now tbh, probably just about worth it.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> to much engine movement, what condition is the dogbone in :?:


Brand new ECS dogbone fitted 3 months back


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Got to the bottom of the grinding noise .
> ...


Cheers tom .
I'm thinking spacer between Turbo and DP with gasket either side just to give it that extra 3-5 mm but thanks for the heads up regarding notching it .
And yeah propshaft is well shiny with a slight hint of grooving .


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

A gasket between the down pipe and turbo outlet was my first though too, it would have to be something completely bespoke with a low failure rate and tolerant of heat. Finding all three things together proved impossible (for me) which is why I went with the notch, bend and weld option.

I thought of using a few of the stock gaskets but I didn't want to risk something dodgy.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> I thought of using a few of the stock gaskets but I didn't want to risk something dodgy.


But you took it to Kwik fit .  
You can tweak the exhaust down pipe with some heat I used a MAPP gas torch to apply some heat. I did this off the car but if you can get the torch in the right place you could probably do it on the car. really a job for two people though.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > I thought of using a few of the stock gaskets but I didn't want to risk something dodgy.
> ...


I had my DP fitted to the stock turbo and their were no clearance issues. Out of context joke, read the full thread :wink:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Temporary fix done on the DP tonight , used a BIG jubilee clip wrapped round the DP and subframe.........job done 

Got minimal wear on the propshaft and a nice Groove out the side of the zorst

This will buy enough time to put something long term into place , gonna cut off old OEM DP flange , machine down to 3-5 mm and a gasket either side should sort the issue .

Also fitted new water temp sensor took all of 30 seconds to swap


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> Temporary fix done on the DP tonight , used a BIG jubilee clip wrapped round the DP and subframe.........job done
> 
> Got minimal wear on the propshaft and a nice Groove out the side of the zorst
> 
> ...


Haha, I had my MOT done this time last year with my exhaust ratchet strapped out of the way just enough to prevent it from rubbing so I know the feeling of driving around waiting for the bodged job to unravel itself :lol:...


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Nice roadster build, keep up the good work! 8)


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Madmax199 said:


> Nice roadster build, keep up the good work! 8)


Thanks max.
Not too much to report on , 20L of Methanol arrived today as I was down to my last 5 litres and put another 70 mile on the car to see if the BODGE job on the DP was gonna hold for next weeks trip to Badger 5 , once mapped car will be off the road for winter and all niggles addressed correctly .

Had another play with the loud pedal trying to introduce some high revs without Turbo boosting too much and saw 387 lbft torque on liquid guage and climbing fast , took my foot off sharpish .
Don't see how these values are accurate as still on std injectors and fuel pump .

Hope to have the DW 65 and Bosche 550 cc injectors on for Friday , water meth is now plumbed in too running a 80/20 mix

8 degrees outside temp tonight , FMIC never went above 15 degrees and dropping to 1 degree when meth kicked in


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Car is now ran in , 500 miles and £100 of Tesco momentum later  .


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

[smiley=dude.gif]


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

If it wasn't run in before it found it's way onto the dyno at Bills it would be by the time he has finished with it


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Dw65 fuel pump is now installed , absolute pig of a job , 550cc injectors installed too.................
However injectors coming back out in the morning as the 1 mile drive home from my mechanics workshop was just Horrid , car is baulking and smells very very rich , just cant see it making the 300 mile trip to Badger 5 on Wednesday as it is.

So tomorrow OR sunday will see oem injectors back in , oil dropped and new oil filter and millers nanodrive put in ready to be thrashed to an inch of its life on the rollers on Wednesday 
either me or bill will fit the 550 on the day , its only a 15 minute swap


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Today I tried to swap back to std injectors but on reinstalling a couple of rubbers slightly perished on the seals to injector rail so swapped back to the 550cc and managed to find a 3 bar FPR lying around in the back of the garage off an spare ABF motor I have for the mk1 golf ( not needed anyway as golf runs on ZZR1100 bike carbs ) .
This should run less rich and first test drive proved this to be the case .

Still lumpy idle showing .930 AFR on liquid gauge .

Oil dropped , millers nanodrive CFM 5/40 in and new oil filter fitted .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Just purchased a V6 front bumper from mrfuzzyfelts in the for sale section .
All bottom grills present, don't need top as already got one .
Will just need painting and fitting over winter


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well up nice and early ready for the long haul ( 4 hours+ )down to Gloucestershire to Badger 5 for mapping .
Not expecting anywhere near Toms figures TBH but we shall see what she does


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Good luck.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

My results from today


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Oh no not good. I take it you never managed to get to Bills then. I thought it strange that he was posting on here when he should have been mapping your car. What happened ?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Car made it to bills but started losing power and breathing heavy from crank breather on last couple of runs , my choice not bills to run it .
Car made 360 bhp from maf calculations but was only seeing 330-340 bhp on RR figures .
long story short , engine failed 5 miles from leaving badger 5 premises on M5 .

Long journey home continues , sat in services outside of Birmingham as we speak waiting for next AA wagon to continue the journey north .


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

That sounds like a strip down is on the cards, failed piston ring ?


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Not good at all. You and Tom seem to be having the same kind of luck. Are you at Hilton Park by any chance. Just down the road from me.
Hope it turns out no to be too serious a problem. What did Bill think it was likely to be.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> That sounds like a strip down is on the cards, failed piston ring ?


Won't know for sure till as you say , engine stripped down.
Started as a on/ off tinkle sound which got more persistent very quickly resulting in RED oil warning light displayed .
Clutch dipped , fistful of hard left into the hard shoulder and engine off .


----------



## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Ah man thats terrible - such a waste of a journey!

Fingers crossed it's nothing too serious and you can get things sorted soon.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Not good at all. You and Tom seem to be having the same kind of luck. Are you at Hilton Park by any chance. Just down the road from me.
> Hope it turns out no to be too serious a problem. What did Bill think it was likely to be.


Not quite sure which services TBH , it's got a bp station , Burger King 
Bill thought piston rings were to blame , but engine failure ,?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Probably Hilton park as that has a BP and a burger king. On the North bound M6 just north of walsall. Worn rings won't stop the engine and if the tinkling quickly turned into the engine stopping with no oil pressure I would get the sump off first and have a look there.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Probably Hilton park as that has a BP and a burger king. On the North bound M6 just north of walsall. Worn rings won't stop the engine and if the tinkling quickly turned into the engine stopping with no oil pressure I would get the sump off first and have a look there.


Just been informed by next AA guy it's frankly, engine didn't stop , I stopped it sharpish when Big Red oil sign came on .sump coming off tomorrow if I ever get home [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Now at wetherby services having to wait 1hour for next low loader from AA to arrive to complete the last 60 miles home ,
officially sick as fuck now . Been up since 3am this morning , coming close to putting a match to the frigging thing


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Hi Jools, these turbo's are great but seem to come with the catch of having terrible luck when trying to get them to run as planned whether it's the turbo itself or things around them; engine, clutch, whatever. The result will be worth it though, let's hope it's not something too sinister. I'm unsure what the best case scenario will be in your situation but I hope whatever it is, it ends up being that (if that makes sense). Fingers crossed for you.

Hope you're not too cold / wet / hungry / brasting for a piss because I've been there :evil:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> Hi Jools, these turbo's are great but seem to come with the catch of having terrible luck when trying to get them to run as planned whether it's the turbo itself or things around them; engine, clutch, whatever. The result will be worth it though, let's hope it's not something too sinister. I'm unsure what the best case scenario will be in your situation but I hope whatever it is, it ends up being that (if that makes sense). Fingers crossed for you.
> 
> Hope you're not too cold / wet / hungry / brasting for a piss because I've been there :evil:


Thanks for the kind words tom , i'm sure all will be revealed over the next couple of days.

Finally just walked through the door now 11 hours from when first AA guy turned up in Gloucestershire, last bloke arrived at my home address with a minute over his allotted times so he is now sat outside the house for 45 minutes with a nice hot coffee and a choccie biscuit or 2.
I cant even go to bed as I cant sign his paperwork till he's off his break , Fucking EU regs .
So all in all by the time I get to bed its been a 24hour turnaround with a probable fucked bottom end and a probable £2k rebuild for the pleasure [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Stick to stage 1 mapping kids :lol:


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Jeez you really are having all the bad luck today. Between you and Tom you have probably put a lot of people off upgrading the engine.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Jeez you really are having all the bad luck today. Between you and Tom you have probably put a lot of people off upgrading the engine.


Your probably right , anybody who thinks that the k04-380 is a simple bolt on jobbie on a car 13+ years old and all getting on with a bit of mileage are deluded . You have to approach it with the same commitment and financial outlay as most BT upgrades . Bottom end fettled, top end minimal fettling, clutch ,wmi ,FMIC , brakes, suspension etc etc........best part £10000+ for 360-400bhp
I'm sure Tom will say its been worth while now its done but wait till things start going wrong and they will .
I knew what I was letting myself in for but didn't forsee this .

My advice to anyone is stick with stage 1 map with a TIP and Airfilter .....outlay £600 tops and 270 bhp and leave it the fook alone


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

If this doe'nt put anybody off it certainly highlights what can go wrong.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> If this doe'nt put anybody off it certainly highlights what can go wrong.


Very true

Think my roadster is cheating on me and in a love triangle with a pair of jacks , spends more time with them than she does me.









Joking aside I'm just about to drop the oil and take the sump off ".................here we go [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

For what it's worth


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Jools TT said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> > Jeez you really are having all the bad luck today. Between you and Tom you have probably put a lot of people off upgrading the engine.
> ...


I havent really looked at this thread much  possibly because its so recent comparatively.
I personally would prefer fitting a dw pump to changing injectors with the 8 seals and filters but anyway.
I hope its nothing too serious.

TT Tom has/had posted the same advice on his "bad days".380 seems to involve a lot of mood swings at minimum.
fingers xed.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

oh dear doesn't sound good  Hopefully you caught it in time before it caused any serious damage :?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

3TT3 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > desertstorm said:
> ...


I have a dw65 pump fitted with 550 cc


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Ok so it's as bad as it gets folks , No2 big end shells are now non existent , new I.e rod is fecked and scoring to the crank .

New engine already being sourced for full bottom end rebuild over winter , and car is declared sorn as we speak .

Possible oil pump failure as cause


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## BadNun (Mar 11, 2016)

Jools TT said:


> Ok so it's as bad as it gets folks , No2 big end shells are now non existent , new I.e rod is fecked and scoring to the crank .
> 
> New engine already being sourced for full bottom end rebuild over winter , and car is declared sorn as we speak .
> 
> Possible oil pump failure as cause


Oh, i'm so sad for you, i was hoping it was going to be all good for you Jools.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Ok so it's as bad as it gets folks , No2 big end shells are now non existent , new I.e rod is fecked and scoring to the crank .
> 
> New engine already being sourced for full bottom end rebuild over winter , and car is declared sorn as we speak .
> 
> Possible oil pump failure as cause


Ouch! sorry to read that mate [smiley=bigcry.gif]

New engines go for peanuts on the fb forum so shouldn't have any issue sorting one for cheap ... maybe take this opportunity to upgrade the displacement to 1900 or 2000 ( every cloud has a silver lining and all that  ) and of course fit a brand new oil pump just to be on the safe side this time :wink:


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> Ok so it's as bad as it gets folks , No2 big end shells are now non existent , new I.e rod is fecked and scoring to the crank .
> 
> New engine already being sourced for full bottom end rebuild over winter , and car is declared sorn as we speak .
> 
> Possible oil pump failure as cause


Thats awful news, must be pretty soul destroying!

However, on the plus side its got to be time for a Stroker. No reason not to under the circumstances.

Good luck and provide plenty of pics!


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Ok so it's as bad as it gets folks , No2 big end shells are now non existent , new I.e rod is fecked and scoring to the crank .
> ...


Will have to see how funds pan out , already into £10K + on the car this year alone :roll:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Jools TT said:


> I have a dw65 pump fitted with 550 cc


Yeh I saw that, me too,I just meant I found injector/seal changing more of a pia than putting in the fuel pump.
But who cares you have more immediate work 

I was going to link you to euroturbo ,there was lots of info there about stroker parts bearings rods etc .. but it seems to be gone offline 
https://www.facebook.com/pg/EuroturboNe ... e_internal


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Really sorry to hear that but I feared the worse when you mentioned the tinkling followed by a loss of oil pressure.Many many years ago I had similar issues with an 1850 Dolomite. Showing my age now.
I have read too many threads of people having issues with oil pressure on these cars which is why one of the first things I installed was an oil pressure/ temp gauge. Found a combined item with a boost gauge that even includes a voltmeter.
Uses cheaply available standard sesnors so easily wired in another sensor to check fuel pressure.
viewtopic.php?p=8293154#p8293154
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure-Tra ... 3255657969?
If it is because of low oil pressure you need to get the turbo checked over just to make sure all is OK with that as journal bearing turbos don't like running with low oil pressure.


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## rocker tt. (Oct 12, 2015)

Hi there Desertstorm, Ive just been looking at your build thread very impressive, in particular, do you have a link to the boost gauge you are using very nice bit of kit & I could certainly use one of those, thanking you in advance.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well just cos she's knackered doesn't mean she can't be pampered .
Washed and new v6 bumper arrived today


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Looking for a sachs clutch kit whilst engine gets rebuilt , any recommendations and links appreciated .
Found this one so far
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-bran ... t-6-speed/


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## Trouble4 (Oct 4, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Looking for a sachs clutch kit whilst engine gets rebuilt , any recommendations and links appreciated .
> Found this one so far
> https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-bran ... t-6-speed/


not sure if this is the same clutch kit...... but if it is cheaper to ship from the US https://autoplicity.com/3005608-clu...pEWMJbndMBp0skQWnksQLRlDl2IwDa5QaAv10EALw_wcB


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Trouble4 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Looking for a sachs clutch kit whilst engine gets rebuilt , any recommendations and links appreciated .
> ...


Same one even cheaper but sold out , no mention of what its rated to tho' needing something around the 450lbft marker
https://www.ebay.com/p/Clutch-Kit-Sachs ... 2/76903969


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

These look well cheap but only 40 % over stock torque 
http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/cg- ... 003017.htm


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Jools TT said:


> Trouble4 said:
> 
> 
> > Jools TT said:
> ...


450 Lb ft is 6oo nm from that aet380 hybrid? Think thats a bit overkill


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## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

Really sorry to hear this news.. gutted for you... but good to plan things over winter.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ady117 said:


> Really sorry to hear this news.. gutted for you... but good to plan things over winter.


Cheers fella , well the plans for over the winter build are finalized .

Clutch is going to be 
http://badger5.biz/epages/3927bc2c-6485 ... =ViewPaged
just need to confirm with my mechanic as per Bills site that the std DMF and cover plate can be reused .

My block is going in to be bored out and honed (AMAC Engineering )https://www.amacengineering.co.uk/ ,

wossner pistons going in 82.5 mm and 9:5:1 compression ratio even though block is getting a skim and head was skimmed very very recently.

New/old engine purchased which will be donor for crankshaft only with ACL race Main bearings.

I.E rod .............well Bill has some kicking about the workshop but need to find weight of mine so it can be matched hopefully with one he's got lying around and new ACL race Big end bearings .

20v n/a inlet cam purchased and waiting delivery .


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Check with Bill on the driveability of the car with a paddle clutch. They do have a higher torque capacity but they tend to be on or off like a switch. This can make driving in traffic a bit of a chore.
I am fairly sure the TT uses the 02M gearbox.
https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/ ... wheel.html


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Check with Bill on the driveability of the car with a paddle clutch. They do have a higher torque capacity but they tend to be on or off like a switch. This can make driving in traffic a bit of a chore.
> I am fairly sure the TT uses the 02M gearbox.
> https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/ ... wheel.html


Yup TT is 240mm and 02m gearbox, Above advert doesn't say what the friction plate is rated to ?

paddle clutch can be a little juddery on initial set off in 1st , but the car is sunny days out with Mrs jools and track days , plus I live in the country so not worried regarding town driveabilty


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Productive day today , everything in readiness to drop engine and gearbox .
I'm contemplating removing the aircon as I can't remember ever using it or do I need it for the climate control ? 
Only ever have the heater on .  
Also looking at leaving off the old intercooler cross pipe which goes across the front , just can't see how it's bracing the car that forward on the chassis legs


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Well done for getting stuck in before the weather turns really grim


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> Well done for getting stuck in before the weather turns really grim


Thought i'd make the most of the nice weather were having today in the north east ,
one night next week will see engine and gearbox out then its all warm garage work stripping block down for rebore and honing . Rebuild in a nice warm garage and then refit , probably well into February /march by then :roll:


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

You don't need the aircon to have the heater/ climate working. Just remove the compressor and all the piping, very easy to do without the engine in the way. 
viewtopic.php?p=8098729#p8098729
I bought the replacement belt from here the shorter belt is 1120mm against 1195mm running the AC as well.
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/202772125


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Not 100% sure but I think the intercooler cross pipe does serve a purpose as it is also on the 180 I believe. I'm sure someone confirmed that at some point - just not sure who it was.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> You don't need the aircon to have the heater/ climate working. Just remove the compressor and all the piping, very easy to do without the engine in the way.
> viewtopic.php?p=8098729#p8098729
> I bought the replacement belt from here the shorter belt is 1120mm against 1195mm running the AC as well.
> https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/202772125


Just finished reading all this on search but thanks for the info anyway lol 

Aircon definitely getting removed , never used it yet and 17kg weight saving :roll:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Not 100% sure but I think the intercooler cross pipe does serve a purpose as it is also on the 180 I believe. I'm sure someone confirmed that at some point - just not sure who it was.


A lot of peeps say its a bracing method and some , not many have removed with nothing negative to report .

I just don't see how its bracing the chassis from flex as its so far forward of the suspension to really make a difference imo.

For what it weighs its no hardship leaving in ,however i'm quite tempted to leave off and see what difference there is ...........if any 
easy enough to put back on if needed


----------



## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> > Not 100% sure but I think the intercooler cross pipe does serve a purpose as it is also on the 180 I believe. I'm sure someone confirmed that at some point - just not sure who it was.
> ...


I didn't think so either but had a little search about and found this

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... st80208998

Ideally it wants to be kept on if you can by the looks of it.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I just cut the parts of the tube off that I no longer use as I have a FMIC now. The fact that it a distance from the suspension mounting points doesn't make any difference. It is acting to solidly connect the two chassis legs together. I left it on my car, It's not that heavy so not really an issue for me.


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Remove it and put the crash bar back on.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

auspicious_character said:


> Remove it and put the crash bar back on.


Exactly , crash bar is doing the same job as X pipe and top front strut brace , plus it's also tied in from strut to strut at front end with engine /gearbox on side mounts, front rad/aircon harness is bolted to front struts .

Is it really gonna flex that much , if so it would be cracking bumper and god knows what else , the cross pipe is classed as additional bracing not nescessary bracing , but the front crash bar is and how many people remove that with no reported problems from chassis flex 
Gonna see what it's like with it off rather than relying on "he said , she said" without concrete evidence


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> I just cut the parts of the tube off that I no longer use as I have a FMIC now. The fact that it a distance from the suspension mounting points doesn't make any difference. It is acting to solidly connect the two chassis legs together. I left it on my car, It's not that heavy so not really an issue for me.


Have you proof that it makes that much difference removed . ?


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> > I just cut the parts of the tube off that I no longer use as I have a FMIC now. The fact that it a distance from the suspension mounting points doesn't make any difference. It is acting to solidly connect the two chassis legs together. I left it on my car, It's not that heavy so not really an issue for me.
> ...


Even then you have to consider whether the car is a coupe or convertible a convertible will have more chassis flex regardless.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Max has confirmed on multiple occasions that the IC cross-over pipe does improve chassis rigidity, reduces roll and increases torsional stiffness of the front spars. I am going off of distant memory but I think the points I mentioned were the general gist.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> > I just cut the parts of the tube off that I no longer use as I have a FMIC now. The fact that it a distance from the suspension mounting points doesn't make any difference. It is acting to solidly connect the two chassis legs together. I left it on my car, It's not that heavy so not really an issue for me.
> ...


I don't think anybody has "proof" of the difference the removal of the bar makes. On different cars it will have different effects depending on the suspension set up and how tuned the driver is to how his car handles. Audi wouldn't have put it on a 180 if it didn't do anything. I think they would have figured out another way to support the power steering pipes.
I haven't removed it from my car and done a back to back test. TBH I would expect it to be a subtle change that some people may not notice.
I am in the middle of deciding if I need a front ARB or not. Taken the ARB drop links off both ends and will see how it goes for a few weeks. I would expect it to give me more front end and make it a bit more lively on the rear. Difficult to tell at the moment due to the road conditions.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> Max has confirmed on multiple occasions that the IC cross-over pipe does improve chassis rigidity, reduces roll and increases torsional stiffness of the front spars. I am going off of distant memory but I think the points I mentioned were the general gist.


But isn't max's car 100 % track orientated and pushing out silly power figures , i'm not doubting the X over pipe serves a purpose of rigidity to a point , but how much ?

According to Audi the cross over pipe is only secondry bracing and crashbar is primarily structural

Removing the front crash bar for me is just as detrimental to promoting chassis flex but no one goes on about it , I even bet max has removed the crashbar , ( not read his build so could be proved wrong )

Full on track car may notice a difference compared to a fast road car ???


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

The crash bar is a bit of metal bolted to the front end, it does nothing but help prevent the plastic bumper splitting everywhere if the worst should happen, it has no role in the chassis' torsional stiffness or roll resistance whereas the IC cross-over pipe does. The crash-bar can be removed as it's pretty irrelevant on a track-car. The pipe is doing no harm, weighs pretty much nothing and will allow more grip which is why the vast majority of people keep it.

On a road car that will be tracked, removing the crash-bar and the IC cross-over pipe seems like an odd one. I'd definitely keep both, one for idiot protection on Britain's roads and keep the IC cross-over pipe to prevent worsening the handling.

It should be quite apparent looking at the diagrams available that 2 singular spars protruding from the main chassis will be more prone to flexing if they are isolated than if they are joined together via the IC crossover pipe.

I am not an expert on suspension but to my mind the removal of the front cross-over IC pipe would result in loading the inside front cornering wheel futher (I.E. right front wheel during sharp right turn). It could also exacerbate the poor camber curve of the MacPherson strut design as it would not be able to transfer some of the load through the pipe to the other spar so the inside cornering wheel would tilt out at the top MORE, effectively resulting in more positive camber during the hard-turn. The terrible camber curve of MacPherson strug design is already undesirable, exacerbating it by removing the IC cross-over pipe doesn't seem like a good idea.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> The crash bar is a bit of metal bolted to the front end, it has no role in the chassis' torsional stiffness or roll resistance whereas the IC cross-over pipe does.


Proof please ?

both cross over pipe and front crash bar are bits of metal bolted to the front end , one underneath and one in front , yet one promotes stiffness and the other doesn't ..........................


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

I've always read it's the same as the rear one but on inspection of the diagram can see that's not the case, you are correct and it looks to me that the front crash bar (assuming that diagram is correct) has a very similar job to the IC cross-over pipe. Another case for keeping both.

The rear crash-bar doesn't join anything together though, I can tell you that for sure, it's literally just bolted on as a bit of metal. Saw it with my own eyes when I removed rear counterweight but didn't remove in-case anyone ever drives into the back of me.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> I've always read it's the same as the rear one but on inspection of the diagram can see that's not the case, you are correct and it looks to me that the front crash bar (assuming that diagram is correct) has a very similar job to the IC cross-over pipe. Another case for keeping both.
> 
> The rear crash-bar doesn't join anything together though, I can tell you that for sure, it's literally just bolted on as a bit of metal. Saw it with my own eyes when I removed rear counterweight but didn't remove in-case anyone ever drives into the back of me.


I concur regarding the rear crash bar and not doubting anyones opinions regarding the front

Just trying to understand why people remove the front crash bar and retain the cross over pipe when both do the same job.

cross over pipe from what I can see is just a lower strut brace when not serving the purpose of passing air to the smic setup.

still gonna remove and see if it makes that much difference , easy to refit both if handling suffers , especially as aircon is being removed ( 17kg ) can afford to put 3-5 kilo back on


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > I've always read it's the same as the rear one but on inspection of the diagram can see that's not the case, you are correct and it looks to me that the front crash bar (assuming that diagram is correct) has a very similar job to the IC cross-over pipe. Another case for keeping both.
> ...


Yeah, very thought provoking. I'd like to know why too, doesn't make any sense to me - maybe people (like myself) saw the rear and assumed the front was the same in regard it having no structural role. Very odd.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

i wouldn't mind a slightly more forgiving front end, so ill keep an eye on this.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Aircon all removed to bulkhead including pipe work and nuts/ bolts etc weighs in at 11.5kg









Rear crash bar with bolts 3.8 kg


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > The crash bar is a bit of metal bolted to the front end, it has no role in the chassis' torsional stiffness or roll resistance whereas the IC cross-over pipe does.
> ...


It makes more sense to keep the front crash bar, the crossmember already does a good job of bracing the front end so deleting the ic crossover pipe is not going to introduce jelly like handling imo ( no proof what so ever )


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

As you have the engine out of the car have a look at trimming the mounting bracket for the AC compressor. I think you can remove some of it.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> As you have the engine out of the car have a look at trimming the mounting bracket for the AC compressor. I think you can remove some of it.


Yeah I was looking at this earlier but tbh with you its not worth the effort for the weight reduction to be gained as its not heavy to start with .


----------



## DazWaite (Dec 4, 2012)

In relation to the i/c crossover pipe and being some kind of brace....what does the V6 model use?

Daz


----------



## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Haven't been on for a while, great discussion! The front crash bar and SMIC crosstube are structural. They combine with the subframe, strut bar, and crash bar to give the front end its total stiffness. Each one of those items combine to achieve that stiffness number and each one is as important as the next one. From experience, you want to keep at least one chassis tie at the top and one chassis tie at the bottom (either the crash bar or the crosstube). If you have a street car, it's smart to keep the crash bar because it provides some safety on top of adding chassis stiffness - if you have a track car, it's smarter to keep the crosstube and ditch the crash bar because of the weight difference. The rear crash bar is a waste in terms of chassis stiffness, so that could be removed without too many safety and stiffness implications.

As far as how much difference they make in real life, it varies depending on the end user, and the use they have for the car. In my case for example and how I use the car, I can tell when the front chassis ties (upper or lower) are there or not. There is something called the "5th spring effect", where the chassis and its ability to flex (or resist flex) under cornering loads is considered another spring besides the 4 ones on the suspension. Just like you can tell the difference in roll stiffness when you swap springs and coilovers, when in tuned with the car, you can also tell the difference in the 5th spring effect. Can this be easily felt in regular street driving? Not really, even I cannot really tell unless I'm at the track pushing the car to the limits of cornering. So it will be tough for a regular driver in his street TT driving around to pick up on the difference in the 5th spring, but it's definitely there. It's like jumping in a car with a good cage, it feels totally different/stiff (in a good way) when compared to a normal production chassis. A good analogy are the seats in a car. Driving around you won't really tell the difference between standard seats and sport/bucket seats. However if you go on a long canyon run or a track outing, you will easily tell the difference in lateral body support when cornering. Those braces, although hard to quantify, are similar in real life to seats.

PS: BTW, the crosstube is so important the front stiffness that Audi engineers even fitted one (slightly different than the turbo ones) on the v6 car. Basically it's chassis brace that they cleverly adapted to serve as a crossover tube for the Intercoolers, not pipe that doubles as a chassis brace.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

DazWaite said:


> In relation to the i/c crossover pipe and being some kind of brace....what does the V6 model use?
> 
> Daz


Daz, the v6 has its own version of the "crosstube" although there no IC.


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Jools TT said:


> Aircon all removed to bulkhead including pipe work and nuts/ bolts etc weighs in at 11.5kg
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> Rear crash bar with bolts 3.8 kg


I don't see the evaporator :wink: :lol:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Aircon all removed to bulkhead including pipe work and nuts/ bolts etc weighs in at 11.5kg
> ...


I have I missed something lol


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Been a while since I last posted an updates , what with the weather and Christmas, things ground to halt . 
Anyway new year ,new beginnings . Engine and gearbox are now out and strip down / rebuild can commence .


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Sweet, It's a bit chilly outside this time of the year isn't it. Been outside today welding plates into the car for the roll cage. Don't want to do any welding in the garage just in case.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Sweet, It's a bit chilly outside this time of the year isn't it. Been outside today welding plates into the car for the roll cage. Don't want to do any welding in the garage just in case.


Yeah it's not the best time to be undertaking these jobs but it's now all heated garage work for the next few weeks , hoping to have a bare block by Wednesday , evaluate any damage to No3 I.E Rod ,order 82.5mm wossner pistons and hopefully not another set of rods ( these are less than 700 miles old )  
I've got a spare crank ready to be fitted ( courtesy of pro race engineering ) as I'm sure the old one will be trashed .
Paint block and get various parts powder coated too .
Lots of pictures will be getting added as build progresses 

I will try and include part numbers and prices as I go along ,might help some other poor bastard in the future


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ok guys , well this build has taken a bit of a turn and a massive cop out on my part.
I have entrusted the bottom end rebuild to Bill @ badger5 using another engine I purchased some time back from a friend of Bills ,this unit is already in Bills lockup so he can crack on as soon as the pistons turn up.

I have also purchased Tom TT's CG motorsport clutch which is on its way down to badger5 .

Bottom end is going to be fully blueprinted with 82.5mm pistons ( 1900cc bottom end)

This still leaves me with an engine for me to build as and when for my mk1 golf if needed . quite happy with it running 2.0 16v on bike carbs tbh .

If this car didn't start out as a keeper , it sure as fook is now [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Some uprated parts ordered have arrived in readiness for reassembly


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Engine is in good hands if it's with Bill and you know he will do a good job.
As the Americans say "There's no replacement for displacement" and another 110cc will always help. Should get the turbo going a little earlier and make it easier to get to 400bhp.
Lots of shiny red bits as well. Got to be worth another 5bhp :lol:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

It's still a bit slow with updates but starting to get more parts together . Engine should be another 4weeks yet but nothing confirmed as yet from Bill .Dont want to be ringing him every week TBH as he did say initially 4/5weeks and that was 2 weeks back 
Anyway this arrived today Forge 60mm map pipe 210 mm length


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Engine is in good hands with Bill I'm sure. If I'm not mistaken he runs a 1.9 with a BT and it hits silly numbers so should be all good once done.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Engine is in good hands with Bill I'm sure. If I'm not mistaken he runs a 1.9 with a BT and it hits silly numbers so should be all good once done.


That's correct , I'm soooooo tempted to sell my hybrid and go for something bigger , at the end of the day mines being built to 700bhp level and fully blueprinted,
Bill actually joked with me about using the hybrid to ru the new engine in and then go for some proper power


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Catch can hose turned up today too


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> That's correct , I'm soooooo tempted to sell my hybrid and go for something bigger , at the end of the day mines being built to 700bhp level and fully blueprinted,
> Bill actually joked with me about using the hybrid to ru the new engine in and then go for some proper power


Ha ha - that would be amusing!

Are you changing the CR at all?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > That's correct , I'm soooooo tempted to sell my hybrid and go for something bigger , at the end of the day mines being built to 700bhp level and fully blueprinted,
> ...


No Bill recommends 9:5:1
Pretty sure his is JE pistons 9:25:1


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> > Jools TT said:
> ...


Yeah I think that's right I think he is 9:25:1

To be honest 9:5:1 should mean it's pretty nice to drive off boost as well. I'd probably stay with that even if I were to go 2.0


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Jools TT said:


> It's still a bit slow with updates but starting to get more parts together . Engine should be another 4weeks yet but nothing confirmed as yet from Bill .Dont want to be ringing him every week TBH as he did say initially 4/5weeks and that was 2 weeks back
> Anyway this arrived today Forge 60mm map pipe 210 mm length


Hi mate,
Good choice on replacing the original MAP pipe as it is quite a bottleneck in the charge piping. I don't know what your plans are for the intake manifold and battery but with the full size original battery in place it would be a real struggle to get that forge pipe in place. The original pipe has an odd shape to wiggle between the chassis, battery, slampanel and headlight. Straight pipe will need some severe modification unless you run a battery half the size to make some space.
I did replace the MAP pipe myself for a 2,5 inch one recently. Maybe that will give you a better idea of the tight space down there.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=994041&start=300

Good luck with the build


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Beunhaas said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > It's still a bit slow with updates but starting to get more parts together . Engine should be another 4weeks yet but nothing confirmed as yet from Bill .Dont want to be ringing him every week TBH as he did say initially 4/5weeks and that was 2 weeks back
> ...


Battery is going to be replaced with a lightweight race battery so no issues but thanks for the heads up


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > Jools TT said:
> ...


or move the battery to the boot which is what i have done ( in process of doing ) this way you are able to cut into the battery tray base that gets in the way of the forge charge pipe ... im changing mine to have somewhere more secure to mount one of my meth nozzles in a threaded alley bung ... the improved flow should also help  I need to get my thread back on track [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Apologies Jools but quick thread hijack!

Jay - how have you done your battery relocate? I want to do one but am an idiot with anything electrical.

Are you still East London way? If so maybe I could throw you some beer tokens to sort out my relocate?

Cheers


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

ProjectMick said:


> Apologies Jools but quick thread hijack!
> 
> Jay - how have you done your battery relocate? I want to do one but am an idiot with anything electrical.
> 
> ...


yeah sorry for hijack Jools ...

Ok so to do the battery relocate i have used the V6/QS battery cables to do the job but unlike the V6/QS shells the 225/180 shells doesn't have the hole cut in the passenger floor where the cables exit the car to go to the engine bay so what i have had to do is go through the grommet behind the glove box that the loom passes through ( absolute mission with loads of grazed knuckles [smiley=bigcry.gif] )was eventually able to get both through .. luckily when i laid the cables i had the carpet stripped out due to a water leak but didn't actually take any pictures of them laid so you will have to make do with my crude paint drawings of how they now go :lol:

























All the cables are now laid and hidden away ready to be attached and the carpet has been relaid on top as the leak has been sorted all that is left to do is buy a batery box and mount it in the rear along with an earth then just a case of connecting everything up ( 1 connection to starter and 1 to fuse box on top of battery box ) job done 

As for helping i don't mind but not sure how you are gonna get the cables laid without the carpet up as they are pretty damn big


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> > Apologies Jools but quick thread hijack!
> ...


No problem on the thread hijack guys , good informative instructions there for anyone thinking of battery relocation.

Because its a lot of work and extra weight in the car. its one of the reasons I'm going lightweight race battery in oem situ .
This will leave plenty of room for my forge map pipe and catch can . Plus relocation of water meth from boot if theres enough space left


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Gearbox was sent away for painting yesterday .along with various engine parts , its not going to be anything flash as the car is being built to be used so its just to tidy things up a bit .
N/A inlet cam will be getting fitted this week too and cam cover is going to be powdercoated black .

Oil pump was confirmed too as cause of my initial issues , completely seized .......so be warned peeps


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Catch can arrived today , universal item £17 brand new


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## hoody (Jul 9, 2011)

Do love a battery relocate !


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Be interested too see what effect the cam has - some say to do it and some say not to bother.

Ps thanks for the pics Jay - it'll be a summer job where I pull out all the carpet I imagine!


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Be interested too see what effect the cam has - some say to do it and some say not to bother.
> 
> Ps thanks for the pics Jay - it'll be a summer job where I pull out all the carpet I imagine!


inlet cam apparently should let it hold power to the redline rather than dying off at say 6500rpm .
Doubt it will make any more horses :?


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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

Jay-225 said:


> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> > Apologies Jools but quick thread hijack!
> ...


When you say cables, did you run positive and negative ? if so could you have just bolted a neg cable to a convenient point on the chassis and save running two cables through the car ?


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Spliffy said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > ProjectMick said:
> ...


Nope as i used the V6/QS cables they are both positive, 1 is unfused for the starter motor the other is fused for the rest of the cars electrics ( connects to fusebox ion top of battery ). I also have the short earth lead the V6/QS uses that connects somewhere in the boot .


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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

Ah that makes sense then  Sorry for the hijack !

Nick


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

My 22mm to 19mm straight reducers from ASH ( £12)turned up today to finish off what I need for my catch can install ( Total catchcan sum £40 )
also my LUK concentric slave cylinder arrived from euro carparts £62.
Also purchased a fluid damper from Bill £428 , just seemed to make sense seeing as bottom end will be blueprinted with single mass flywheel possibly chattering its tits off on the other end of the crank .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
https://www.semmotorsports.com/parts/18 ... ifold.html

I have gone with 60mm adaptor for throttle body and as SEM only do large port now i have bought their large port to small port transition phenolic spacer


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Jools TT said:


> After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
> https://www.semmotorsports.com/parts/18 ... ifold.html
> 
> I have gone with 60mm adaptor for throttle body and as SEM only do large port now i have bought their large port to small port transition phenolic spacer


Just thinking - with the level of build you seem to be going with, you might as well go large port and BT at this point? Engine is certainly going to be strong enough.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
> ...


This level of build unfortunately was dictated by a failed oil pump and was never meant to get to this level , however its belts and braces all the way in building a strong reliable engine .
Plan is to run the k04 hybrid for a year ( i'm intrigued to see what a k04 hybrid will actually achieve with all the help its ever going to get )and then go for 500 -550 bhp level .
Need it built up and reliable first before pushing the engine hard


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Yeah I hear you. Just almost seems a waste to build such a strong engine with pretty much the best components to "only" run an AET380.

I'm sure you will end up with a special car either way!


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Be interesting to see what the engine makes with the big inlet manifold on. I have seen some big claims for gains with these larger inlet manifolds . Keep an eye out for builds with the new Garret G25 turbos the G25-550 and G25-660. Look to be a great match with the 1.8 and a decent V band manifold.
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyg ... es-g25-660
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyg ... es-g25-550
http://www.nortechperformance.com/1-8t- ... -manifold/


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
> https://www.semmotorsports.com/parts/18 ... ifold.html
> 
> I have gone with 60mm adaptor for throttle body and as SEM only do large port now i have bought their large port to small port transition phenolic spacer


Haha i was have been looking into exactly the same thing this last few weeks and want to go with the SEM inlet only thing stopping me at the sec is the import charges ... i have been in contact with WHENAB ( Loren Whenab on FB ) from the USA who can supply the SEM Manifold With the transition spacer and delivery for $810 usd ( £585 ) but when it lands in this country it will be subject to charges depending on what SEM have declared its valve at...apparently its declared pretty low to help avoid high charges  so would be very interest to find out what yours cost when it lands then will look in to ordering mine 

btw the price i was quoted above doesnt inclued the tb spacer which is a little extra ...

Have you thought about an Oil pressure gauge for this new Build :?:

Doing anything with the Head while it is off, perfect time for some mild headwork seen as its looking to be quite a major build 

AS DesertStorm has said you MUST looking into the new G25 Series of Turbo ... one of them would be perfect for this build


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
> ...


Yeah imports the killer [smiley=bigcry.gif] will update as to what this is , pretty sure its Vat +4%
I got mine direct from sem with adaptor plate and phenolic spacer to suit small port and 60mm throttle body .
All in inc shipping £624.( $1080 Canadian dollors )

Plan is to build the car back up this year and run it in on the AET/380 and see what can be squeezed out of it , may never see 400bhp , won't be for the lack of trying and only time will tell .

Over winter look at a good setup that will push a reliable, tractable, driveable 500bhp + :mrgreen:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Be interesting to see what the engine makes with the big inlet manifold on. I have seen some big claims for gains with these larger inlet manifolds . Keep an eye out for builds with the new Garret G25 turbos the G25-550 and G25-660. Look to be a great match with the 1.8 and a decent V band manifold.
> https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyg ... es-g25-660
> https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyg ... es-g25-550
> http://www.nortechperformance.com/1-8t- ... -manifold/


Need to have a look at these


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > After a lot of googling and uncertainties as to which is best OR best for my application ( 034/I.E/SEM )I have decided to go with the advice of bill @ badger 5 and purchased this:
> ...


yeah I will look into an oil pressure guage at some point .
Leaving the head std for now but if /when it goes Bigger on the turbo i will use a large port head with I.E valve train and either scat or badger5 cams but will discuss this further with bill when the time comes.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Ok , so been looking at seats ( Can't make my mind up yet ) and steering wheels , quite like the look of this but don't know if it will be too small and obscure the cluster when driving .http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMP-Superquad ... 1438.l2649

Opinions on steering wheel and seat recommendations appreciated


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Don't think view of the cluster will be an issue, Maybe the fuel and temp gauge but the steering on mine is noticeably heavier with that 350mm wheel. Don't know how much heavier it would be with a smaller wheel . The flat bottom on the wheel definitely helps getting in and out of the car with the high sides on the seats.
NickG has Motamec seats in his car, I was considering those , they are a rebranded Mirco seat.
https://www.mircoseats.com/
https://www.motamec.com/motorsport-part ... ml?cat=312
There are of course a load of seats at GSM. 
http://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/sparco-fi ... t_486.html If you are anywhere near them you can arrange to go and try the seats. I was lucky and picked up the ones in my car off Fleabay, Just 6 months old and like new but half the price that they would have been to buy. There is a load of expensive tat as well.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Don't think view of the cluster will be an issue, Maybe the fuel and temp gauge but the steering on mine is noticeably heavier with that 350mm wheel. Don't know how much heavier it would be with a smaller wheel . The flat bottom on the wheel definitely helps getting in and out of the car with the high sides on the seats.
> NickG has Motamec seats in his car, I was considering those , they are a rebranded Mirco seat.
> https://www.mircoseats.com/
> https://www.motamec.com/motorsport-part ... ml?cat=312
> ...


Cheers for that mate , main problem I'm encountering regarding seats is getting runners/ mounting brackets for seats .
Done a few searches on here but nothing definite for the mk1


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I bought a second hand set of OMP bases from NickG. I think he has also supplied a few people with a lightweight solution which is essentially a 4mm thick strap about 50-60mm wide which bolts to the existing mounting points. 
The OMP bases are expensive really for what they are but do offer a plug and play quality solution.
viewtopic.php?f=250&t=1251225

The OMP part number is HC817, The picture on this ad is not the correct one but the part number and description is.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1-9 ... 2251803372?

http://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/omp-audi- ... _2687.html

I fitted a slider on the drivers side only. The passenger side is mounted as far back as possible and fixed. No need to add weight and cost .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Competition-B ... 2556741087?

viewtopic.php?p=8628762#p8628762


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> I bought a second hand set of OMP bases from NickG. I think he has also supplied a few people with a lightweight solution which is essentially a 4mm thick strap about 50-60mm wide which bolts to the existing mounting points.
> The OMP bases are expensive really for what they are but do offer a plug and play quality solution.
> viewtopic.php?f=250&t=1251225
> 
> ...


cheers karl , very informative but im sill slightly confused as to which bit i need  
i was thinking these seats https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-Raci ... SwLsBZTFFB
with these side mounts
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-Allo ... SwmtJXb-Ds

so to complete is it just the base i need from omp ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1-9 ... rmvSB=true


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Those would do for fixed seats. If you want the drivers seat adjustable then you need a runner. This fits in between the base and the side mounts.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Those would do for fixed seats. If you want the drivers seat adjustable then you need a runner. This fits in between the base and the side mounts.


Spot on mate , I get it now lol


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Gearbox and transfer box is now cleaned and painted


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Got 5 litres of this for the gearbox

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-CRX-F ... 2749.l2649

And 2litres of this for the diffs

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-Titan- ... 2749.l2649


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## J9NO A (Feb 2, 2014)

Great build thread, really enjoying it.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

J9NO A said:


> Great build thread, really enjoying it.


Thanks mate , let's hope it gets the happy ending it deserves :wink:


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Wow that didn't take long to come


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Came home from work to find this left on the doorstep , thought everything had to br signed for these days , good job I'm honest .

OMP Superquaddro


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

It seems these days a lot of the time a signature is not required, or the person delivering it will sign. A lot of couriers these days only get paid for a successful delivery. This is true with Amazon they will drop it or give it to almost anybody to get it delivered.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Engine arrives tomorrow as does the sem inlet manifold  .

For those wanting a full break down on price for the sem imported :

SEM largeport inlet manifold finished in bare cast 
60mm throttle body adaptor plate
transition phenolic spacer from large port to smallport
Shipping 
$1050 Canadian Dollors ( £624 )

Import duty:
Customs duty £25.13
Import VAT £116.73
Clearance fee £11.25

TOTAL £ 777.11

Its down to you how hard a bargain you drive with sem as to what you will get it for, i think i done ok .

Couldn't get the I.E or 034 with bits for that price from uk supliers so am happy :lol:


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

How much petformance is it supposed to add?


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Engine arrives tomorrow as does the sem inlet manifold  .
> 
> For those wanting a full break down on price for the sem imported :
> 
> ...


Cheers for that mate , that's what i expected it to be around tbh and not too bad considering what you are getting and how much the Manifold alone cost in the uk ( £770 ) from the TT Shop which doesn't come with the either of the spacers which will set you back at least an extra £100 so a good saving imo... time to hassle SEM for more discount :lol:

Btw saw a few pics of the new engine on Bills FB page.. looking very nice indeed 8)


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> How much petformance is it supposed to add?


Never been done on this setup before chris so it could be as much as 50 bhp and as little as feck all ...........time will tell .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Engine arrives tomorrow as does the sem inlet manifold  .
> ...


 :twisted:


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd/vid ... 54849/?t=6

Still waiting on fluidamper, Bills posting it up when it arrives from America


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Did you find out what happened to the engine in the end?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> Did you find out what happened to the engine in the end?


A link to independent testing of SEM manifold
http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?17191 ... M-Manifold

Oil pump failure :?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Engine arrives tomorrow as does the sem inlet manifold  .
> ...


Bahn Brenner are selling these for $699 usD ( £500)
https://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/c ... _Port_Head


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

It's arrived


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > Did you find out what happened to the engine in the end?
> ...


I'm assuming you didn't put a new one in when you did it was the strainer clogged?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > chisharpe said:
> ...


Oil pump failed due to oil pump failure , 
strainer was new on original build , cutting corners by relying on a 102k miles oil pump is what bit me in the arse .
You live and learn


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

SEM has arrived


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > Did you find out what happened to the engine in the end?
> ...


I will just leave this here for you :wink: : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stack-Profess ... 2749.l2649 kind of essential with this build especially considering what killed the last engine [smiley=bigcry.gif]





Jools TT said:


> SEM has arrived
> 
> View attachment 1


Cheers for the link for the SEM , will email them see if they do all the bits i need ( same as what you got ) as that is a bit cheaper  Got any plans for yours concerning painting ? i think they look pretty nice in black with the SEM Motorsport done in red :twisted:


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Just like christmas but it's February. One of the first things I sorted was an oil pressure gauge. Too many people suffered issues with them.If I ever go Big turbo on mine a new oil pump will be on the list.
Hope it all goes back together easily, looking forward to a very positive result the next time it's at Bills.


----------



## Cozzy (Dec 17, 2017)

New block and pistons look the business !! watching this thread with interest.  Will be fine on this build fella.......lady luck must shine on you this time !
Regards Cozzy.


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

What head work did you get done?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> What head work did you get done?


None as it doesn't need it yet .
Skim and stem valve seals were done 500 miles ago


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Bit more weight saving
1.6 kg









2.9kg


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jools TT said:



> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > What head work did you get done?
> ...


Whoops i almost forget , sorry Chris , yes it's having a n/a inlet cam fitted


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> Bit more weight saving
> 1.6 kg
> View attachment 1
> 
> ...


That's a lovely wheel


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> SEM has arrived
> 
> View attachment 1


Have a look at this link mate ( http://forums.quattroworld.com/tt/msgs/306495.phtml ) , the fella just fitted a SEM manifold so you get some idea of whats involved ( not a straight fit ) , i did advise him that moving the battery to the back would of been a much better idea to aid in fitment and choice of pipe work from the intercooler but he wanted to keep the battery box so got a smaller battery to aid fitment... i still advise to just get the battery in the boot to free up all that room :twisted:

Gonna send Bahn Brenner an email today and see if they actually a have a Small Port Manifold in stock as would much prefer a small port over large ... one reason being it would be cheaper as i then wouldn't need the transition spacer and could just use a standard gasket .. thing is when i emailed SEM about this exact thing they said they only make the large port now so Bahn website may not be correct offering both unless they have some old stock left ( here's hoping :lol: )


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > SEM has arrived
> ...


Large port only now mate , even sem still offer smallport on their site but no longer make them , SEM only charged me for the inlet manifold and threw in spacer and adapter plus shipping for free hence (£624).
So if you went bahn brenner @ £500 plus the extras i think you will find its cheaper to get it all from sem
I will be using a PC680 lightweight battery so not overly concerned for space tbh but thanks for the heads up :twisted:


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Quite a difference in size


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Some more stuff arrived today 
Fast road vibratechnic engine mounts and Draft 42 gear linkage bushings


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Some more stuff arrived today
> Fast road vibratechnic engine mounts and Draft 42 gear linkage bushings


 :lol: i fitted a set of these 2 weeks ago... They stiffen up the engine nicely but do get more NVH than standard , Gear change is super slick and engine feels like it is completely attached to the chassis and doesn't move at all during corning , acceleration etc .

seems you got a very good deal with SEM with the freebies so will ask them if they can do the same for me  cheers


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Some more stuff arrived today
> ...


Thanks for the feedback on the engine mounts , my std ones are a joke .
Good luck with the SEM purchase


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Didn't expect to see any deliveries today , of all days when the uk grinds to a halt with the Siberian weather my new Bosch IAT sensor turns up and my fluidampr


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Don't normally do this sort of thing but seeing as I had a spare few hours yesterday and some Ferrari red high temp paint lying about I thought I'd have a go at painting my IM and throttle body .
Cam cover is being powder coated gloss black so thought I'd leave silver for contrast .


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Nice touch, As I really can't do anything with the car ATM as I either need to get it out on the drive or lose a bit more petrol out of the tank to enable me to change the Fuel pump. I have been messing around with WINOLS and TunerPro trying to work out how this mapping lark works with the 1.8T engine. A lot more to it than tuning diesels which I am used to.
There are a lot of vacuum taps on that manifold aren't there. Think you will need to block a few.
I presume you could just unscrew the barb and screw a bolt in.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Nice touch, As I really can't do anything with the car ATM as I either need to get it out on the drive or lose a bit more petrol out of the tank to enable me to change the Fuel pump. I have been messing around with WINOLS and TunerPro trying to work out how this mapping lark works with the 1.8T engine. A lot more to it than tuning diesels which I am used to.
> There are a lot of vacuum taps on that manifold aren't there. Think you will need to block a few.
> I presume you could just unscrew the barb and screw a bolt in.


Yeah I only need 3 vacuum taps . 
DV, FPR which are the 2 smallest barbs and Brake assist which is the 90 degree barb , one is already blanked and the 2 in the middle I'm just gonna loop with a piece of silicone hose


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Oil catch can made up ready to connect once engines in , progress came to a halt unfortunately with last weeks weather and some parts delayed .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

I know it's been in bits a while but can I fuck remember which dog bone to use


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Went and picked up my powder coated cam cover today after the guy having it 3 weeks .
What an absolute shower of shite job , said he had trouble with it reacting , I said I had trouble paying for a shit job .
So
Cam cover came home with me as is and not a penny spent .


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

vapor blasting is the way to go to clean aluminium, I think Bill has one of these now.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> vapor blasting is the way to go to clean aluminium, I think Bill has one of these now.


Yeah Bill was showing me when I was down there last 
Pic of my flywheel









Pic of clutch









Pic of I.E crankshaft bolt









Gearbox , block and transfer box all bolted up


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Today saw the arrival of W2 stainless steel clips in various sizes for my creation Motorsport coolant hoses and also my 16 row mocal oil cooler kit


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Did you go for a thermostatic sandwich plate ?.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Did you go for a thermostatic sandwich plate ?.


The car is only used in summer months with spirited driving Or the odd track day so didn't see the need for thermostatic type .
If I was using it all year round then for the extra £20 it makes sense


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Spent today cleaning and painting my power steering coolant pipes as they had started to corrode .
Used a wire brush wheel on my drill and then painted with black Hammerite , 3 coats .

Also removed my Evap/carbon canister and associated pipe work including the hard pipes from the rear , l looped the two front pipes. Don't know if this is correct .? 
Weight saving is 2.5kilo as also removed a couple of brackets from other bits .


----------



## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

I would waxoyl the pipes, function over aesthetics.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I looped the two front pipes, The one pipe is from the tank, the other runs under the car about half way and just ends . I was going to cut a suitable size bolt up and drill a 3mm hole in it then put it in the end of the pipe under the car so it's not quite as large a vent hole. In days of old this was how tanks were vented you would just have a small hole in the fuel tank cap.
Haven't got around to doing this yet, car doesn't seem to suffer at all.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> I looped the two front pipes, The one pipe is from the tank, the other runs under the car about half way and just ends . I was going to cut a suitable size bolt up and drill a 3mm hole in it then put it in the end of the pipe under the car so it's not quite as large a vent hole. In days of old this was how tanks were vented you would just have a small hole in the fuel tank cap.
> Haven't got around to doing this yet, car doesn't seem to suffer at all.


When you say it just ends , is it capped or open on the end


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

It's open, If you blow down the pipe you can hear the air coming out under the car.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Hopefully with the bad weather behind us I can get on with this build , handed the reigns over to a trusted mechanic next week as I'm in Tenerife sunning myself so progress Should start moving at a faster pace now.

As it stands today
















Should be in the bay by the weekend


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Bit more progress


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Ooh nice 8)


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Came back off holiday on Sunday expecting the engine to be in and plumbed up ................no change apart from all belts and ancillaries bolted on to engine . WTF 

Went and picked up a parcel from a neighbours house that had been delivered to find my oil pressure guage had arrived . So today I mounted it in the vent .


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Not good news about the engine. Oil gauge looks nice though. The vents were almost designed to hold 52 /60mm gauges.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Not good news about the engine. Oil gauge looks nice though. The vents were almost designed to hold 52 /60mm gauges.


Looking at what came with the kit it looks like they include a 1/8 npt to 1/4 npt adapter but the oil port on the oil cooler requires an m10 X 1 thread .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

It's surprising what can be achieved from a dry day and a couple of hours graft

























Mk2 ball joints to fit , connect prop shaft , driveshafts , coolant pipes etc etc and she'll be ready to fire up hopefully for next weekend , dependant on weather and any unforeseen issues


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> > Not good news about the engine. Oil gauge looks nice though. The vents were almost designed to hold 52 /60mm gauges.
> ...


You should have 2 adapters , one being M10x1 to 1/8npt ( what I am using in pressure test port ) And the other is the 1/8 to 1/4 npt which we don't use . If it hasn't come with the second adapter give the place you got it from a call and get them to send a replacement out.... fitting wise just need the m10 adapter ànd the solid state sensor goes right on top with no need for extension pipes etc


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > desertstorm said:
> ...


I ordered another one for a £5 off ebay then found the one that came with the kit  .........dumb dumb :roll: .
Oil pressure guage is fitted now , you can just see it in my first piccie of engine in the bay .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Snapped the power steering sensor yesterday .............so first set back , ordered a 2nd hand one off ebay


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Hoping to fire this up by Thursday sooooooooo...........









With 4L of millers running in oil already in the engine the last 1L will be put in after several cranking over engine with injectors disconnected .
It will be ran up to 2k revs stationary for 20 mins whilst checking for leaks and oil pressure , allowed to cool .
Ran for 50 mile at full throttle upto 4K revs with plenty of engine braking and drop oil .
More millers running in oil for another 250 mile upto 5K revs , drop oil 
Again more millers running in oil for another 250 mile driving normally , drop oil .

Fit mocal oil cooler , fill with millers nanodrive ( approx 5.5-6 litres ) 10-40 fully synthetic .

Once the magic 1000 mile has been reached then back down to badger 5 and see what it's putting out .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Light at the end of the tunnel , hoping to fire this up tonight .....


----------



## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

Getting there!

Is your n75 plumbed in correctly?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

intott said:


> Getting there!
> 
> Is your n75 plumbed in correctly?


Well spotted , if you notice there are no jubilee clips on , it was just put in place while we made sure we had everything needed to fire it up .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Fired the car up last night and alls good :lol: .

Still a list of things to do before its running on the road as a couple of issues have risen since putting liquids in and system under pressure .
Main 2 problems are power steering coolant pipe has a pin hole and need to helicoil the alloy engine mount ( Cambelt side ) as it pulled the thread when torqueing down  .


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Fired the car up last night and alls good :lol: .
> 
> Still a list of things to do before its running on the road as a couple of issues have risen since putting liquids in and system under pressure .
> Main 2 problems are power steering coolant pipe has a pin hole and need to helicoil the alloy engine mount ( Cambelt side ) as it pulled the thread when torqueing down  .


congrats mate , very near the end now 

Concerning the mount , did you try and use the Audi Torque setting (40Nm + 90deg ) with the high tensile bolts supplied with the mounts ? obviously that setting is for stretch bolts and doesn't work with the HT bolts , i went to about 80Nm on each bolt and that felt FT :lol: didn't want to push it anymore... been in over 2 months now and the engine isn't laying on the floor yet :wink:


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Fired the car up last night and alls good :lol: .
> ...


Yeah used Audis settings for torque , nipped up ok but it was the 90 degree yuck that fooked it . nothing a helicoil wont sort.
Ran car up again today as I had wired in my oil pressure guage and saw a healthy 1.5 bar at idle when all was nice and hot after 20 mins idling at 2k revs


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

I almost made the same mistake but as i was doing the 90deg it felt like i had gone past its limit so backed it off and settled at 80Nm straight for each bolt and felt good...

Concerning oil pressure my figures are 1.8bar @ idle with oil temp at 80 deg , 6 bar @ 3.5k , off the gauge when flooring it so 7bar +


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Going to be fitting my pc680 battery soon , what connections do I need to convert ?
GOT SORTED GUYS 
https://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/m6-termina ... -0006.html

Its staying somewhere near the oem location so cable not needed .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Car seems to be holding water at least and hoping hose layout is as supposed to be even tho I had 2 hoses left over from the creation Motorsport kit it's time to put coolant in which arrived today









Yeah I know it's a waste of money but couldn't help myself


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well car still hasn't moved off the axle stands even tho' engine has ran .
Going to have to source another power steering coolant pipes as the knackered ones are unrepairable .
Also checked for fault codes and have a lambda sensor fault and cam position fault .
New lambda is ordered from eurocarparts ( Bosch item ) 
Cam position sensor i'm thinking is timing is slightly out , so my mechanic is going to have to have a look into this.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Still waiting on Bosch Lambda sensor and timing still needs to be rechecked by my indy.

So I had a couple spare hours this morning so I drained water down and topped up with the 3 litres of G13 .

Changed a couple of boost clamps over to mikalor ones .

Repaired power steering pipes with some steel putty I had lying around ( seems to be holding)

And preliminary fitted my oil cooler .Still got the flange to fit and connect pipes correctly with jubilees on the end but this will get done properly when running in periods complete .

Ill let the comments start on my choice of location .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Concerning oil pressure my figures are 1.8bar @ idle with oil temp at 80 deg , 6 bar @ 3.5k , off the gauge when flooring it so 7bar +


Was wondering if oil pressure on mine is down in comparrison to yours due to the oil being thinner .( Running in oil )
Ran it again today for 20 mins idling ( Water 90/oil 82 ) and am seeing 1.4 bar idle and 4.6 bar @ 3k revs


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I wouldn't worry about that oil pressure it's plenty. As you say with slightly thicker oil it will make more pressure still.
Oil cooler location will always be difficult with such a large FMIC. Easy to mount where you have, Alternative location would probably be on it's side where the drivers side SMIC used to be, wouldn't have got as much airflow and I would rather have sensible oil temps and more oil pressure than 1 degree cooler intake air.
Steel putty on the power steering pipes is never going to be a permanent fix. They are silly prices for what they are. 
See if you can locate a local Pirtek agent or agricultural Hydraulics place who should be able to sort something out.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1125753


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> I wouldn't worry about that oil pressure it's plenty. As you say with slightly thicker oil it will make more pressure still.
> Oil cooler location will always be difficult with such a large FMIC. Easy to mount where you have, Alternative location would probably be on it's side where the drivers side SMIC used to be, wouldn't have got as much airflow and I would rather have sensible oil temps and more oil pressure than 1 degree cooler intake air.
> Steel putty on the power steering pipes is never going to be a permanent fix. They are silly prices for what they are.
> See if you can locate a local Pirtek agent or agricultural Hydraulics place who should be able to sort something out.
> ...


power steering repair is as you say only temporary .

Looked at oil cooler location several times and came to the conclusion its best where its at . That lip/airdam on the Airtec seems as though it was made for it .
Huge intercooler doesn't help location but should help it out regarding AIT due to its size compared to a smaller fmic.

Also i don't have a crashbar ( AirFlow restriction ) and do have WMI so not overly concerned tbh 

Yeah oil pressure looks fine , think audi quote 14.5 psi / 1 Bar at idle when hot . :twisted:


----------



## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Make a metal sleeve, get some silkaflex and put a jubilee clip around it.
That will hold for a while.


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > Concerning oil pressure my figures are 1.8bar @ idle with oil temp at 80 deg , 6 bar @ 3.5k , off the gauge when flooring it so 7bar +
> ...


yeah very likely the oil viscosity making the difference between the 2... you are within Audi specs so are good to go knowing it will get better with thicker oil in , what you planning on running anyway? im using Total 5w/30 ..

this is what Audi state the oil should be @ 80 deg oil temp..










Concerning oil cooler i would try to replicate what Wak had done if i didn't put mine on top of the intercooler but thats not an option for you ... What Wak has done will work though and probably be better than its current location imo  
http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/amdfmic/amdfmicnoc.htm


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Ill do some logs and compare , never sees higher than 24 degrees AIT normally so will see if current location hampers it and by how much , sent Bill the setup and he's not concerned either with its location .
Oil wise going with Fuchs Titan 10-40 OR millers nano 10-40 both fully synthetic with ester based additives £ 60 -70 for 5 litres , however will need 6 litres when oil coolers connected so with my K&N oil filter I wont be getting any change from £100 per oil change which will be every 12 months or 3K miles .


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils ... 2179906271?
OPIE have decent offers every now and then.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-5-Litres-Of-CFS-10W40-Fully-Synthetic-Nanodrive-Engine-Oil-Race/362179906271?
> OPIE have decent offers every now and then.


Cheers for the link  
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-Titan- ... SwXeJYLaAF

Some good deals out there , haven't settled on which one i'm going for yet .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Eurocarparts are a pile of shite , lambda probe not even sent yet , picking one up this afternoon from Andrew page and £30 cheaper.
Timing was indeed a tooth out and now rectified so hopefully once lambdas in this evening its first 50 mile can be ran :roll:


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

New Lambda installed , just got the 1 fault to sort out .
Car still showing 16725 fault , spoke to bill and theres a couple of things to check first before trying a new cam position sensor


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well checked reckecked and checked again .....timing marks all line up ok including camshaft timing marks , because we don't have flywheel marks were having to do it the old fashion way with a screwdriver down piston 1 but all seems ok .
Checked we used the correct inlet cam sprocket for the Hall sensor to pick up on , the TT and 20v n/a cam sprocket not the same but alls good there too.
Still getting fault for cam position sensor so gonna try a new sensor , wiring looked to be ok.

Engine runs smooth and sweet when fired so gotta be something silly.

Car is off the jacks and with New Mk2 balljoints on its at an awful angle.
Shit loads of toe out , cars virtually undriveable 
Wheel position head on is literally 11:05 instaed of 12 o'clock .

Power steering repair has shit itself too so another ebay purchase made and see what turns up this time.

Slowly getting pissed off [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Let the pics say it all


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Jools TT said:


> Let the pics say it all
> View attachment 1


My advice would be refit the mk1 balljoints and get the engine running nice and sweet before messing about with suspension ... What are you trying to achieve with the MK2 balljoints , more front camber ? Im running the standard mk1 balljoints set to 1.5 deg and for me this works perfectly well for day to day/ fast-road and some laps round the ring and haven't felt the need to change as the car drives spot on


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > Let the pics say it all
> ...


Changing to mk2 balljoints for the extra camber - 0.7 to -1.0 degree all helps with these cars. car setup at the moment is -1.5 rears and - 1.9 front if memory serves me right 
Already made the decision yesterday Jay to put the mk1 balljoints back on , so that's a job for today , hopefully got a cam position sensor to go on today aswell to rule that one out . I'm still convinced its timing , told my mechanic to ring bill this morning as bill mentioned the timing needs setting non vvt with chain tensioned upright or something like that and my mechanic doesn't know what he means so they can sort that one between themselves.

Need to chop the V6 bumper to fit as its fouling the FMIC / oil cooler and hard boost pipes so another job for this morning .

Hopefully power steering pipes turn up soon and in good condition .

Need to get this car rolling now with some compression going through engine to bed the piston rings in , don't think its done it any good stood idling from time to time whilst trying to rectify faults ( approx. 1hr idling time in total )


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Some good news at last , sorted timing issues out yesterday and car now fires first turn of the key and no fault codes .

Power steering coolant pipes turned up yesterday too , old off , new on , refilled and no leaks , ran engine long enough to get the air out .
Tonight if it stays dry will be fitting New n/s track rod arm and track rod end to adjust the outward toe from fitting the mk2 ball joints ,
O/s was done Sunday and looks a lot better , you can physically see the extra -camber but n/s is totally seized hence the decision to fit new.

So if alls well maiden voyage tonight or tomorrow :lol:


----------



## longodds (May 8, 2014)

One step at a time will get you where you want to be .


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

longodds said:


> One step at a time will get you where you want to be .


Wise words , but this build has been about 3000 steps and each one taken equally painful and trying . Nearly there though , just hope it performs as well as it looks


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Hang in their I am sure it will all be worth it in the end  . Was the cam timing issue down the the static timing or did you change the sensor ?. Makes it worse trying to do too many things at the same time, with modified cars things are never as simple as they should be.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Hang in their I am sure it will all be worth it in the end  . Was the cam timing issue down the the static timing or did you change the sensor ?. Makes it worse trying to do too many things at the same time, with modified cars things are never as simple as they should be.


Initially everything looked aligned and once turned over it appeared to be out by one tooth on the inlet cam itself. You have to make sure the tensioner is in the up position and you have a gap of 16 links on the chain when both inlet and exhaust cam timings are in the timing window , otherwise when rotating it can be slightly out and cam position sensor will not see the correct signals from the hall sensor on the cam position sprocket on end of cam
so simple yet so problematic . 

No maiden voyage tonight as TPS have fooked up the delivery and only sent the track rod end and weather is pissing down . :evil:


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Some updated pictures

This is the 5mm spacer between the DP and chinafold mani , personally I think for the money your paying these should be included in the kit as I've found from a few who have gone with the badger 5 Hybrid most have had issues with DP /Lambda clearance issues due to the chinafold being a slightly different shape to the oem .









This is the V6 bumper chopped and temporarily fitted









And this is the completed engine with oem battery laid in for cranking purposes , pc680 lightweight will be fitted once I'm happy with how it is, even thinking of relocating to behind passenger seat at a later date .


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

great update. can i ask where you got your spacer from.


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> great update. can i ask where you got your spacer from.


Badger 5


----------



## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

can i ask how much it was?


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> can i ask how much it was?


Having spent thousands of pounds with Bill it was thrown in for free, best emailing him direct chi for availability and price


----------



## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Managed to put 73 miles on the car last night :mrgreen:

Would like to say it was faultless without any dramas which TBH it was but couple of things to look at .

N75 isn't seeing 100% (seeing 64% )on wot and so limiting boost to 1.4 bar max .

Top coolant hose is obstructing fan .......

So not too bad ,

I ran the car hard through the gears at every opportunity and engine braking a lot not exceeding 4 -5 k revs . Saw good oil pressure throughout and never saw less than 1.2 bar at idle with 96 degrees oil

Will be dropping the oil tonight and another 5 L of running in oil to be ran for 250 mile at varying loads and engine speeds no higher than 5 -6 k revs


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

great news. i would assume it might need a map tweak and also boost leak testing? if you have not done already as not all engines even if the same one rebuild are equal and i sure this one sings since its fully rebuilt 8)


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> great news. i would assume it might need a map tweak and also boost leak testing? if you have not done already as not all engines even if the same one rebuild are equal and i sure this one sings since its fully rebuilt 8)


Car will need a tweak on the map indeed , its a lot different engine to the one that initially went down , the fact its a 1900cc with a huge inlet manifold now alone would suggest mapping required to make the most of it .

Changed my N75 over as I have 3 and i'd put a knackered one on instead of a good one so now boosting to 24psi .

Think the car was mapped to 28psi so losing 4 psi on inlet manifold and maybe elsewhere but bill always does a boost leak check before mapping anyway.

Put another 100 mile on tonight after changing the oil , running the car up to 6k revs occasionally now and quite positively seeing 397-403 bhp @ 6k on liquid gauge ( don't know how accurate it is), so looking promising .
Engine is silky smooth altho' a bit smoky sometimes on overrun down hill labouring in gear pulling vacuum but soon goes when accelerator applied , hoping its just part of the bedding in process , thin mineral oil and running catchcan venting to atmo .


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Well I'll just leave this here tonight

ENGINEBLEWUP


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

No!
2.0 tfsi time.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)




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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

O bollux


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> Well I'll just leave this here tonight
> 
> ENGINEBLEWUP


WHAT!


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

*Seriously WTF * [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Was this something to do with the timing issue that was just going on or something unrelated ?

Mate i really do feel for you as you have sunk a fair penny in to this recently and to be bitten on the arse like that is not nice


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Car is now back on the drive ..................Big thanks to the AA ....again !

Been out with the wife for a meal so was driving very sedately as she wont get in with me unless I drive like miss daisy , saw it as a good excuse to put some more miles on the car , had the liquid gauge on monitoring water temps and oil pressure gauge was showing good oil pressure ,
came out of a 30 mph zone and started accelerating slowly and BANG engine parts departed through a hole/crack in the sump , oil everywhere .
There was no warning at all it just exploded , I have left Bill at Badger 5 a message to which he has yet to reply .
Depending on the outcome many parts may be coming up for sale as I have had as much as I can stomach with this car . 

AA guy asked for mileage of car I said...............................150 miles [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> Car is now back on the drive ..................Big thanks to the AA ....again !
> 
> Been out with the wife for a meal so was driving very sedately as she wont get in with me unless I drive like miss daisy , saw it as a good excuse to put some more miles on the car , had the liquid gauge on monitoring water temps and oil pressure gauge was showing good oil pressure ,
> came out of a 30 mph zone and started accelerating slowly and BANG engine parts departed through a hole/crack in the sump , oil everywhere .
> ...


i can completely understand if you choose to walk away now this is a joke


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Wow, so sorry to hear that. You have done every thing right. Hopefully Bill can sort this out for you, must be some kind of catastrphic failure, maybe one of the rods if the sump has been holed.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Ok guys, took sump off and No1 i.e conrod has literally snapped / sheared in half leaving one end on the crank and the other on the piston and put a hole in the sump, hole in the block ,disintegrated the new oil pump and peppered underside of 2 pistons with shrapnel . Probably fucked the crank and bent some valves as it left the piston at TDC.

Thats 2 engine failures in 6 months and 600 miles .............no warranty .

looking like me and the TT will be parting company


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

PLEASE SEE CLASSIFIEDS FOR ALL PARTS FOR SALE
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

A sad day i honestly feel for you fella [smiley=bigcry.gif]

shocking that the conrod has snapped in half that must of been a catastrophic failure , shouldn't of happen while being run in i would of though let alone going at 30mph but it was probably on its way out before it decided to leave the block :?


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> A sad day i honestly feel for you fella [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> shocking that the conrod has snapped in half that must of been a catastrophic failure , shouldn't of happen while being run in i would of though let alone going at 30mph but it was probably on its way out before it decided to leave the block :?


Thanks for the kind words jay , i'm not prepared to spend another £3k on an engine rebuild that you get no warranty with for maybe the same happen a 3rd time


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

I can`t believe it what happened to you! How build the engine should be responsible!


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

I feel sick for you.


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## Pow3rL3ss (Dec 15, 2008)

What rods were used if you don't mind me asking?


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Ie rods.

If you're legitimately binning it off I am looking for a roadster to v5 and I'm not after any of the goodies you have put on.

I will do a collected deal on some remains, shall bring own steels.


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## Pow3rL3ss (Dec 15, 2008)

I had some Tuscans fitted around same time of this engine build - it's making me nervous


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

I take it Bill hasn't been back to you yet?


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

Jools TT said:


> Well I'll just leave this here tonight
> 
> ENGINEBLEWUP


Have been reading your thread with much interest over the months, absolutely gutted at this and really feel for you. The failed rod should go back to I.E. for analysis to see if there was a flaw in it.


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

i would go back to ie and try and get another rod. and if i was bill i would offer to find out the cause and rebuild for free if it was down to me or IE


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

I.E Rods were used and were balanced by Bill to match the Balanced Pistons and Balanced crank ( Blueprinted)

Bills response :
Unfortunately Integrated Engineering do not offer ANY warranty on their rods , therefore Badger 5 can't be held responsible for the failure of a component that has no warranty itself . [smiley=bomb.gif] 
Bill said he would help me as much as he could but wouldnt be out of pocket in doing so .........whatever that means [smiley=book2.gif]


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

auspicious_character said:


> Ie rods.
> 
> If you're legitimately binning it off I am looking for a roadster to v5 and I'm not after any of the goodies you have put on.
> 
> I will do a collected deal on some remains, shall bring own steels.


Leave it with me :mrgreen:


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Cool, I can get a Vivaldi's parmo when i collect. 

Does the rod have to be the part which failed?
Could just be the part which took the impact.
If a piston seized then the rod would snap for that reason.


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> I.E Rods were used and were balanced by Bill to match the Balanced Pistons and Balanced crank ( Blueprinted)
> 
> Bills response :
> Unfortunately Integrated Engineering do not offer ANY warranty on their rods , therefore Badger 5 can't be held responsible for the failure of a component that has no warranty itself . [smiley=bomb.gif]
> Bill said he would help me as much as he could but wouldnt be out of pocket in doing so .........whatever that means [smiley=book2.gif]


So you spend how much with this guy building an engine with rods he recommends and you have a failure. Did you supply the rods or he did? And was there mention of warranty's ect?

He would help you as much as he can but wouldn't be out of pocket Jesus this is an advertisement for others on the forum to use him.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

chisharpe said:


> Jools TT said:
> 
> 
> > I.E Rods were used and were balanced by Bill to match the Balanced Pistons and Balanced crank ( Blueprinted)
> ...


Yeah rods were supplied by him ..........i'm dissapointed with the whole outcome and response from certain people


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

auspicious_character said:


> Cool, I can get a Vivaldi's parmo when i collect.
> 
> Does the rod have to be the part which failed?
> Could just be the part which took the impact.
> If a piston seized then the rod would snap for that reason.


Hard to prove and hard to lay blame , I would just advise people to be aware and eyes wide open regarding manufacturers/ Tuners who will always find something or someone else to blame for failed / broken items , and I believe I have said this before on here .


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Quite possibly not the rod that caused the problem. A lot of rod failures on VW BXE engines caused by the big end bearing overheating and effectively welding the con rod to the crank causing the rod to snap. Take the big end cap off and have a look at the bearing.The big end bearing on that rod may have spun.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Edit:I don't want to be part of this pitch fork


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Jools TT said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > Jools TT said:
> ...


There is a bit of hate towards the engine builder in a few places and I've seen a few stories of him washing his hands of problems and I can understand from a business point of view he would say that to you but I never really believed the people saying it as there is always two sides but if I have mapped a car with him that blew up then the second one did I'd be pretty kissed


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Edit:I don't want to be part of this pitchfork


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Jools, first of all - my condolences on your bad luck.

Secondly, did Bill assemble everything? I seem to have it in my head that you had a third-party mechanic assemble everything for you, whereas Bill did the supplying of parts and a few bits and piece on boring out the cylinders and such?

Correct me if wrong, just curious which bits Bill did and did not do.


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Sorry Jools but I'm trying to get my head around Bills response, did Bill recommend the IE rods, and or just build the bottom end to his specifications utilizing a product that he knew in advance did not carry a warranty?


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## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

I'm no lawyer, However I find poor customer service unacceptable.

Consumer Rights Act 2015

The Consumer Rights Act became law on 1 October 2015. This guide explains what it means for you when buying goods or services.

https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights ... rights-act

For £115 pounds you could lodge a claim in the small claims court!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> What warranty would you give me? You built your car. I want some exhaust valves but if my car breaks you replace? It all yeah?
> 
> Think about the actual lines you would need to draw? A gearbox supports 270ftlb torque. Can I buy a gearbox from you for my 400 ft/lb stroker?
> 
> Modified cars are a lottery.


if i build your engine supply your turbo manifold ect and map then you plumb the engine in, I think he should at least find out what went wrong for him foc. the only part here where hes safe is because he didn't fit the engine he supplied. also it should be clearly stated the rods that he supplies come with no warranty. surely if you buy something and it breaks during its intended purpose its not fit for that purpose. but thats the supplies issue and not bills but if your reccomending them to everyone and selling them yourself then surely there is some ownership to let customers know.

I dont repair engines but i do repair phones. if there is a fault i will fix it even its in not my fault most of the time because i run on word of mouth and reputation. and yes a phone is not a £3000 stroker but an iphone X is a grand and if i fuck that up its a pretty big chunk to take.

but it also it wasnt valves he built the whole engine which was supplied by him. if them valves do bad and break under the conditions they were made for i would want replacement valves yes.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Edit:removed


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

I'm not jumping on one person. I'm jumping on the pretty much washing of the hands of one person. That's all. I'm not saying he did the stuff to break the engine I'm saying he could help that is all. And what I would expect if I was in a similar situation. Now if what I expect and what is reality of different then that's just life. He's built plenty of engines that have not done this so it's not a case of his body of work just the fact that once people have problems it's been known that he wipes his hands. Ask on the Facebook forum or on big turbos about some similar cases and you will find some. But on a similar note the guy helping me build my engine had his engine mapped by bill and it's been nothing but good.

I've never met or had interactions with him. Also I think the fact that the rod manufacturer gives no warranty is another bit of bullshit.


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

I have to call bullshit on Bills response if he specified the internals and the rods, he knew they were unwarranted and should have informed Jools of this before using them. I f he did not then he is responsible for the specification, so long as the map wasn't dumping huge amounts of torque on the rods and was within tolerance then this is a spurious failure unless the oil pump and associated mechanics can be shown to be at fault.
IUnder consumer law as the supplier of the good steel the responsibility for goods provide lies with Bill not I.E.
If you buy an iPhone from car phone warehouse then they are responsible for its replacement or refund not Apple as the manufacturer.

. If nothing else his response is doing nothing for his reputation as a responsible builder.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Edit: I think want to be part of this pitchfork


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> Why don't you ask Jools who provided the rods to Bill to fit, were they all already from Jools' previously blown up engine? Well 3 rods maybe? How many engines has Jools' map broken now?
> 
> I expect Bills reputation is fine as an engine builder, but the experience will stop him from fitting second hand customer provided parts into a standalone block, with no input into the other components, map and driver. As he has become the blame point.
> 
> ...


Jules map is bills map. First engine built by jules destroyed itself oil pump. Second engine as far as I'm aware was fully supplied by bill mate.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Edit: I think want to be part of this pitchfork


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

First failure was 10 miles after having the car mapped by Bill , I.E Rods supplied by Bill fitted by my indy .
Probable cause oil pump failure .
Second engine was sourced by Bill using its crank which bill balanced and polished , New pistons supplied by bill and balanced by bill and 3 of my existing i.e rods and 1 supplied from bill ( 2nd hand ) which were balanced by bill .

So basically chances taken by both parties on using 3 600 mile rods and 1 unknown mileage .

I.E do not offer warranty due to they can't be held for unknown 3rd party fitting incorrectly, torqueing down incorrectly etc etc .

Should Bill have insisted on new rods being used............maybe

It was Bills map on the car from first time around which he said would be fine and require a tweak when ran in

Running in process was discussed with bill and oil service intervals .

I'm not blaming any 1 individual as I must take some of the blame myself in asking if 3 of the existing rods could be used to keep costs down .But then again i'm not an engine builder so would ask that

Its bit me on the arse guys so can we leave it here


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## badger5 (Apr 19, 2003)

Seeing as this is on this forum, with the expected assumptions and debate from uninformed others, I will say this...... for the sake of perspective & clarity of facts.

I am very unhappy there has been this failure also.. It is not expected of a premium brand rod such as IE.

Jools bought a K04-380 kit and some IE rods back in 29th august 2017. He had them fitted local to him by someone.
He brought the car for mapping on 22nd November 2017. During the mapping (plots below) it became very apparent there was problems with this "built engine". It was breathing heavily and not responding well to the tuning. I ceased tuning it telling jools he needs to go back to the guy who built his engine, as it was not well. It did'nt make it home, with oil pump failure. This failure killed one rod from oil starvation, bluing it up, rendering it scrap.









Jools wanted us to build him a new bottom end, and a 1.9 bottom end was built by us. 3 of his previous IE rods were sent down, and we found one here of same style and as close weight matched as possible to make it into the set of 4. All were then end to end balanced as was the rest of the rotating assembly. 
IE do not offer warranty on their rods.. Jools knows this, and the warranty paperwork is supplied out in the IE rods package.. see below

















The bottom end was collected and jools had it built up & installed locally. There were some small issue on them incorrectly installing the cams & cam belt but with some messaging too and fro between is they corrected this.

Intial report from jools was the motor was very smooth. None of us expected what happened a few days later.

What I told jools when we first spoke about the failure was I could not just replace his bottom end foc. The failed part, IE rod is sold by IE without warranty, let alone a used rod which jools was happy to use to save him some money on. I do not know which rod has failed (moot point anyhow). I have offered (and nothings changed from my end yet) that I would help out as much as I could to fix this, (free labour to rebuild etc... but we did'nt get that far into any conversation..) but it would not be all at my cost for the reasons given.

We didn't get into any more detail on this as it was still too raw for him, having just had the failure. The last txt message I receive from jools is he's decided to break the car, as he's £xxx into a TT which has low residual value and did'nt want to spend any more on it. I can understand his view. It is his view/decision.

We did'nt build the whole engine, we did'nt install it, we did'nt check it was ok and safe to run in...All this was done by jools' chosen mechanic/garage. Remember this was mapped on the previous engine not the new fresh one. It would have been running in on actuator pressure only had it been a job done complete by us, after initial checks and logs done prior to customer collection. I cant say what the cause of failure was, if it over boosted, pulled severe timing etc, as we did not see the car. Maybe that was a contributor, maybe not. We shall never know. We did'nt get to see the car.

Its a terrible situation. Anyone who knows me knows I do give a sh*t about these things. I'm very upset about it also. No one expects an Integrated Engineering rod to snap. They are a premium brand, with good reputation. This is the first IE rod failure I've encountered personally.

Jools has my number, should he wish to continue with it and get it rebuilt with our assistance, but it will not be built at 100% our cost I'm afraid. We will help as much as we can as I've said all along. To make any decisions we would need to see the damage and review whats salvagable etc to decide the next steps.. IF thats what jools wants to do.

Bill


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