# How to: Changing the Fuel Filter



## Dreago (Apr 3, 2014)

Does a TTS have a fuel filter and if so does it need replacing? It's on my service book but has never been done, I understand that the service book is probably a generic Audi one, so may not apply to all cars. Also can't find anything on this forum about it.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Replacement not normally required but if a high miler replacement can only increase reliability.
Hoggy.


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## Dreago (Apr 3, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Replacement not normally required but if a high miler replacement can only increase reliability.
> Hoggy.


It's not really a high miler but have a spare filter so thought I would. 60k so far.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Not usually required at 60 k miles but If you have one then up to you. Connections can be difficult to disconnect.
Hoggy.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I used an allen key to push in the connectors so it didn't damage them like a screwdriver would (on my V6)


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## Dreago (Apr 3, 2014)

Cheers chaps, I have a friend who is a mechanic doing it so all good. Also going to do the cam follower, rear light failure and realign my windows.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Here's a YouTube DIY for replacing the external fuel filter.

For part manufacturer and part number you can check the MANN website -
MANN-FILTER Online Catalog Europe

Here's a nice YouTube video on how to replace it -
*How to Change Fuel Filter on Audi TT Mk2 Mann WK 69*


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you find your fuel line connector clip is broken, you may not have to replace the entire fuel line. It may be possible to repair it with this kit.

_In the first pic under lined in *red* is what the retaining button looks like.(It is broke, but give you the idea.) Underlined in *green* is the repair fuel clip and underlined in *blue* is what was left of my return line retaining button. The original button retainers must be removed to use the clips. Once the original button retainer is removed, I used a small flat tip, pried it out, slide the fuel line onto the new filter and then insert the clip. The clip just slides in, if you are having to force it, more than likely you are inserting it backwards, turn it around and re-insert. Don't force it, you will break it.

The clips are really easy to remove and more than likely will stay in place. But just to make sure, I decided to just snug a zip tie around the line and clip, see pic.

So I am very happy I did not have to replace any fuel lines and the next time I replace the fuel filter is will be much easier. Snip the tie, pull the clip and slide the fuel line off._

Credit for the source - Fuel line connector button


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

According to the box on my Crosland filter (when I replaced mine earlier in the year) these are compatible parts:

Crosland F30135
Bosch F026 403 006
Mann WK69/2 (assume same as yours)
Hengst H155WK02
Knecht KL156/3

For the V6, not sure on other engines


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yep, looks like WK 69 for the 2.5 TFSI (CEPA, CEPD) and WK69/2 for the 3.2 BUB. But always good to double check.


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## Dreago (Apr 3, 2014)

Cheers for this, very helpful. 
G


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## CarlTT58 (Jan 5, 2020)

The manual advises the electric pump beneath the rear seats should be disconnected before replacing the filter because the pump is switched on by the opening of a door. Is this really necessary or would disconnection of the battery or removal of the fuse controlling the pump more easily achieve the same objective?


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

Why would the fuel pump prime when opening a door!?! Weird to say the least.

Pull the fuse i'm sure will do the same, or just don't open the door


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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

Pull the fuel pump fuse, then run the car till it dies - should only take a few seconds. Much easier and quicker.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

ab54666 said:


> Why would the fuel pump prime when opening a door!?! Weird to say the least.


This is quite normal
The assumption is, if you are opening the driver's side door you are probably planning on driving somewhere. Running the fuel pump for a second or two ensures your engine is ready to start.



cas5259 said:


> Pull the fuel pump fuse, then run the car till it dies - should only take a few seconds. Much easier and quicker.


+1
Especially if you plan on changing your cam follower. Besides disabling the fuel pump, you need to bleed the high presure fuel rail. Running your motor is one way to achieve this.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ab54666 said:


> Why would the fuel pump prime when opening a door!?! Weird to say the least.


Have you not heard yours? It's quite audible every time you open the door

But easiest way is to just leave the door alone and you should be fine, I've not been sprayed with petrol as yet. But the fuel pipes are a pain to remove

There are also a couple of versions, one with 2 pipes, one with 3, so make sure you get the right one


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Hi all,

Just in the process of ordering the fuel filter. However, a little confused as to what difference there is between the WK69, WK69/1 and WK69/2????

And if I need to be specific as to which one I fit to my model?


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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

Romani44 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Just in the process of ordering the fuel filter. However, a little confused as to what difference there is between the WK69, WK69/1 and WK69/2????
> 
> And if I need to be specific as to which one I fit to my model?


Look up the OEM part number for your car, then use the filter that matches. The WK69/1 has a pressure regulator, so the /2 probably does as well. Maybe they're different pressures.

I used WK69 on my 2011 TTS.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You might want to take a peek under your car (use your SmartPhone) and see if you can find the OEM part number on the filter. There's a chance it might be there and visible.


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## Joba87 (Jan 1, 2020)

It's an easy 30 min job, did mine at around 130,000km and all sorts of black gunk came out of the filter. Only problem you might face is that screw on the bracket is most likely corroded. Had to drill mine out. The fuel lines themselves were easy to remove without force.
Remember to plug the filter with the caps that come with your new filter or you'll be spraying fuel everywhere.


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Thank you all, I will have a look when I get home and do a bit more surfing on the net. Just wondered if someone knew straight off the bat.

**edited* see below for part number, courtesy of the ECS Tuning website. You can filter your model in to their page and then it filters all searches specifically. Offers the original VAG part, as well your MANN, Mahle etc etc

Fuel filter: 1K0201051K pressure @ 6.6bar
Screw for bracket: N90496802*

Thanks for the tips. Been researching it on here regards the works. But good ol' Dr Sunka on YouTube has been my go to for the standard servicing bits and pieces.

His video on the fuel filter is no nonsense and less than 5 minutes.

Thanks again!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looking through the WSM for this job, I was a bit surprised that VAG doesn't reference a specific tool for the fuel filter connectors. YouTube and other VAG Forums usually show the use of either a flat blade screw driver or a curved pick to release the clip.

Considering the risk of breaking them and the potential nightmare of replacing the entire fuel line if that happens, I was wondering if anyone has used these fuel line pliers.

They seem cheap enough at only $13.00 on the *ESC Tuning* website. I also found a similar, if not identical pair, on *Amazon* for around the same price.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks good. I usually use the ball end of an Allen key to try and prevent damage to the connector. If the above is the right size for the TT lines I would be tempted to buy one for the future


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Having replaced my fuel filter a couple of weeks back, I decided to hack into the old one and see what state it was in.
My car is a TTS MY2010 with just over 92k miles.
The date stamp on the fuel filter says 2009. My service manual says it was changed in 2014 ! 🤔
So I decided it was best to replace it.

I cut open the old one like a can:


















The filter looks ok. Obviously I caused a bit of damage while cutting it open.
After extracting it I could see the fluid at the bottom was tinged brown:










The removed filter:










It is contained in two plastic rings, I had already removed the top one.

I then opened it out.
You can see there are brown marks all over it, so while it was probably ok, a new one was a good idea:










Two important points:
1, never believe the service manual. 
2, never believe an item is not serviceable.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

FWIW, here is a cool video detailing exactly how your fuel filter works. 
Author starts out hack-sawing into the can, then the contents are mapped out in CAD.

Calculating the forces applied to the return spring might be a bit much, but it does explain why you want to ensure you purchase the correct p/n (even though they all look the same) Audi uses 3.0, 4.0, 6.4 & 6.6 bar regulators depending on engine type.


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