# How to repair your ABS pump



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

*How to repair your ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) *

If you've ever seen your ABS light come on, perhaps intermittently at first and then permanently and perhaps recorded the following error code with Vag-Com:

:01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications

... then the often likely cause is a PCB soldering fault.The vibration from the motor ,amongst other things, travels down the lead and connector onto the PCB and over time loosens the connector pins within the solder joint. Eventually you get a bad connection and open circuit when it sparks and eats away the last remaining metal in the joint. Having an ABS light on is an MOT failure now too so you need to attend to it. Check your fuses first just in case but you may not be so lucky.

The fix is simply to re-solder the connections but getting to them is a little tricky. This will save you rather a lot of money though so there's good incentive. My old ETKA lists the dealer cost for the ABS pump at £1,339.80 which seems a bit excessive. I believe you can buy them for a few hundred but why not try a repair?

Here's how. This is actually on my S3 but it's exactly the same as my Mk1 TT.

First take off the MAF connector and the air connections to the air filter box and remove it after undoing the 10 mm bolts.










You can see the ABS pump properly now.










Next pull the cam operated connector latch which will disconnect the loom.










You can see the motor connector now but you don't need to disconnect this.










Next you might want to mark the brake lines somehow so you don't get them mixed up on reassembly.










You'll need a decent spanner - this one is a special brake union spanner by Williams Superslim - seen years of service.










To stop the brake fluid leaking out and dirt getting in the dust caps from brake nipples are an excellent fit and seal well.










Remove them all and seal one by one.










There are three rubber vibration mounts with 10 mm A/F bolts to undo - then the unit should drop away and you can fiddle it out.










You might also want to put bungs into the holes to keep the dirt out too.










Now you need to get the rear cover off but this is not easy. You can get a knife into the joint but you can only prize off the edge and the lid will still be stuck down.










You can use a small circular saw to cut through the deep labyrinth seal. Don't go too deep to avoid damage to the circuit board. DO NOT remove the through screws the lid will pass over their heads and if you do remove them the unit will split apart from the aluminium block which you don't want.










You can use screwdrivers to prise away the lid. Be careful not to stray to far inside in order not to damage the PCB. It will still be clinging together. This is probably the most difficult part of the job.










Once away, clean up the edges and inspect the PCB for damage. You can see the poor "dry" solder joints here with the hairline cracks around the pins. Just re-solder these with a powerful iron and use plenty of solder for a physically strong joint.










Unfortunately my screwdriver had smashed a diode:










Fortunately a spare leaded 1N4148 diode could be adapted to fit as a surface mount part.










Use a generous amount of silicone sealant to refit the lid. I used high quality Loctite black 5910 sealant. This is the only thing that retains the lid and you've lost surface area by cutting through the labyrinthine interleaving edges. You also want it to be waterproof. I filled the bolt head recesses too.










You can wipe off the excess and smooth it off somewhat. It could have been neater but is good enough.










If I was doing it again I think I would leave the edge seal intact and instead cut through the flat lid surface and remove a window above the connector pins. The pins could be soldered through the window which would be much easier to seal with a flat plate and far neater.

After fitting you will probably need to bleed the system properly. I'm pleased to say the ABS pump now works and no warning lights are lit


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Anything this man can't fix? 

Legend! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## nelmanners (Feb 1, 2012)

Amazing diy!! Thanks for sharing with us. I will remember this one for the future

Cheers
Werner


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## Converted2VW (Feb 13, 2011)

I can attest do this method as I just did this a couple of months back.

The fact that you save serious money from new parts and labor (at least $1800) makes the repair so worth it!

Fwiw, I did separate the module (plastic) from the pump (metal) without issues. Found it was easier to pry the module open that way. Also, Audi does sell a kit of plastic caps for $15 for this specific job [THUMBS UP SIGN]


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Great write up as always John. 8)


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

Brilliant how-to John  Bookmarked should it happen.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Converted2VW said:


> I can attest do this method as I just did this a couple of months back.
> 
> The fact that you save serious money from new parts and labor (at least $1800) makes the repair so worth it!
> 
> Fwiw, I did separate the module (plastic) from the pump (metal) without issues. Found it was easier to pry the module open that way. Also, Audi does sell a kit of plastic caps for $15 for this specific job [THUMBS UP SIGN]


That's interesting. Do you have any details on the replacement plastic parts kit - it's that the complete plastic enclosure?


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## Converted2VW (Feb 13, 2011)

It's not really a replacement parts kit but rather a service kit. It's about 7 or 8 plastic caps with threads that fit perfectly on the metal pump where the brake lines would thread.
I sealed the plastic module just like you did.

Here's a pic of the kit (though the caps can't be seen very well:










And here's a pic of the module separated from the pump (need e5 socket for that)


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Just to add to this - you can separate the whole ABS pump block into it's 3 pieces and leave the brake lines intact thus not causing any leaks and not requiring you to bleed the system afterwards.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I had seen the same unit on some cars being mounted on the wing on its side and being far more accessible. On the TT and S3 it's mounted like it is tucked away low down at the back and working from the top didn't look easy to split, nor was I sure it wouldn't leak if I did anyway.

That's another option then if you can. I did actually take the screws out of mine initially once it was off the car but the electronic box was still stuck there, then I saw that the heads would allow the lid to pass over them, so there was no point in removing them at that stage and risking dirt getting in.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

It looks to be mounted differently on the S3 than what it is on the TT aswell for some strange reason.


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## rodhotter (Dec 30, 2011)

great info from a talented repairman! just like my TV i had repaired, the guy said today's TV circuits crack from heating + cooling, he did a little soldering + it was good as new!


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Yes I have revived this from the dead 

I have attempted this fix today since I have the same fault codes and all ABS sensors seem fine (as per Vagcom)
But sadly the PCB is different from the one displayed here.
There are no 'larger' solder joints as shown here and nothing obvious that could be a dry joint.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

That's a shame


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

New (Ebay Job) control Unit fitted and all working.

a note for anyone else - I had to do a steering angle sensor reset.

Thanks


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## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Necro bump since this thread comes up in Google first. I just did this. No clue if it worked or not. No engine or wire is the car. But my solder joints were broke and I used my soldering iron to weld the case back together. I hope this helps future readers. I will also smear ultra black rtv over the plastic area I welded back together.


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