# 3.2 TT S-line Pre-purchase Advice Please-Eye Candy Included!



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I've been looking for a Mk2 TT for a few months now and have gone away from the 2.0l after a couple test drives and learning about the potential EA888 engine issues. After owning a Mk1 3.2 & doing all my own maintenance I've decided that this is the best platform for my needs as would like to upgrade and get a few more luxuries before my retirement in a couple years. Below is a list of wants and no-wants I'd like to avoid.

Can those Mk2 enthusiasts review my requirements and provide some comments on the car listed below? My son is going to test drive for me this weekend as its some 2,000km's away. If I decide to buy my son would drive down at Christmas so will want to make sure car is road worthy before then. I have spoken to the seller on the phone and he seems to be very helpful and genuine although has only owned car for 8 months with limited service history.

Thank you in advance.
*Wants*
1/ 3.2 Quattro Mk2
2/ Between 60-120kms on odo
3/ Heated electric seats.
4/ Prefer S-line (brakes, cosmetics, etc)
5/ Leather interior.
6/ Some performance mods acceptable (wheels, exhaust, suspension,etc).
7/ Decent Head unit with USB input. Also prefer steering wheel controls.

*No-Wants*
1/ Magride
2/ Poor maint history and fault codes
3/ Boy racer mods
4/ Shit tyres/wheels
5/ Rust or signs of panel/repairs etc

Car we are looking at;
2007 Audi TT S-line | Trade Me Motors


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

S-line brakes are same as non s-line aren’t they?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Jezzie said:


> S-line brakes are same as non s-line aren’t they?


Like the MK1 model, I thought the S-line had larger front rotors and possibly wheels? I may be mistaken with this on Mk2.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

All V6s have the same brakes, same as the TTS also. Aside from the RS, it's the biggest setup on the MK2

Also the V6 came with heated leather as standard

Spec does vary by country though, my comments are for UK cars


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Erm, you say “no boy racer mods” but from the seller description quoted below, it’s exactly that……

“Awesome car runs great and super grunty. Absolute head turner with body kit and miltek exhaust system worth over $3,500, K&n air filter, gear box breather, stainless downpipe and exhaust, brake intake cooling pipes neus speed sway bars, stiffer rear suspension and rs partial body kit, raysang re30 forged racing rims and stage 1+ tune by AS tuning. New wof rego until end of year.”


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## EsnTT (May 27, 2019)

Just me, or is there no coolant in that header bottle??


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

EsnTT said:


> Just me, or is there no coolant in that header bottle??


I'm thinking the same 

Interior looks a bit shabby, Driver's seat badly worn.
No heated seats (per owner's comment)
Damaged headlight (expect to replace $$ both unless you get lucky and find an exact match)
Stage1+ means nothing on a NA motor.

Forged wheels definite plus
Exhaust _could_ be a plus as long as it can pass MOT / emissions inspections / etc in your area and isn't too loud.
Paint looks good in the pictures, but black needs a close inspection since black shows everything.

Price-wise I would use a stock 3.2-V6 for a reference. Cost for headlight & seat repair offset by wheels. Wouldn't pay extra for any mods. If pricing is still in the ballpark then possibly a good deal assuming it passes an independent inspection (a test drive isn't suffcient)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would ask that the seller agrees to a full fault code scan with a VAG specific diagnostic OBDII device; (e.g. VCDS, OBDeleven, etc.) as part of the deal. Run one before and after a test drive just to see what's going on and to reveal any faults they may have cleared prior to the test drive. 

I have both, and for ease and convenience, OBDeleven is the way to go for this.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> All V6s have the same brakes, same as the TTS also. Aside from the RS, it's the biggest setup on the MK2


Not entirely true


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for all the comments. I don't see the mods as boy racer type. Interior is basically stock and is a tad shabby as pointed out. I like the wheels & exhaust but not sure about sway bars and body kit additions. I also noticed no coolant in reservoir which seemed odd. Owner has had it scanned but I would like it checked and apart from any faults get the intake & exhaust cam positions for chain stretch. From memory these are blocks 207 & 208. 

On the headlight issue he has a second hand part but basically stated he would deduct the cost of a new light from asking price. These range from $1500-2k from stealership. I don't hold any value with the stated stage 1 tune as can't see this having any benefits. I understand this was done prior to the exhaust being installed as well so would like to know what was actually changed and who did it. 

As stated, I cannot view in person so will have to leave to my son to evaluate. He has helped me work on my TT and has driven it often.

Keep the comments flowing.......


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Headlight wires can sometimes be fixed, it's tricky (sometimes you either need to drill a hole in the housing for more access or separate the lens from the assembly (which means careful "baking").

Pine Hollow actually had an Mk2 TT on his channel for the very first time 😁 for a similar issue:





Spoiler: NPR fix, just a couple wires soldered and all was good.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Looks like car sold before my boy had a scheduled test drive. Oh well, saves me the hassle of getting it properly checked. There is another one up with only 67k on the clock and has FSH. Iit does have Magride which has put me off as well as the high price of $14.5k. I’ll post up link & pics later when off my phone.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Links to another Mk2.
2007 Audi TT Coupe 3.2 Quattro | Trade Me Motors
*Likes:*
1/ Colour & condition
2/ Low miliage and FSH
3/ Nice aftermarket exhaust & intake
4/ Interior options including heated seats and steering wheel controls.
*Dislikes*
1/ Magride
2/ Faulty inferioir head unit
3/ Not S-line model
4/ Higher asking price

Thoughts?


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Only certain countries had sline trim for the 3.2 so not a major concern. 
This one has electric seats compared to your last one so would save on retrofits if that’s your thing. Which with this place can easily become your thing. 
Stereo easy enough to replace. 
Mag ride which I don’t have but only becomes a problem when no longer working plenty of delete modules coming about now to swap them out with aftermarket units in the future. 
Colour will help with hiding dirt longer. 
I have no idea about the fixing on the block near the oil cap.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for comments.
I wouldn't retrofit options like heated seats as I believe to be difficult due to the integration of elements within seat and lack of generic electrical harness with fittings. Can replace HU easy enough, just another added expense to consider.
Magride has be most concerned as its expensive to replace and going with coil overs is a compliance issue in NZ. I like colour but wife not that fussed. 
Like you, I'm not sure what that thing is by oil cap. Possibly one of those sponge clips to wipe the dip stick oil off??


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

EsnTT said:


> Just me, or is there no coolant in that header bottle??


Looks like it’s on the minimum line for sure


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I think it’s a better option than the first one. Lower miles with FSH (all Audi?) shows it’s been taken care of. Going by the description, a lot of the major servicing such as haldex and DSG have been done recently (check logs to be sure) and Looks pretty much stock apart from the exhaust/intake and HU which as mentioned is an easy fix. Benefitting from power seats and MFSW and better interior condition. Noticed alloys probably would benefit from a refurb as pretty bad.

TBH, I think you’re overthinking Magride. It’s kinda like using Google as a doctor, you’re bound to only read bad things as people with no issues never post that they’ve never had issues and there must be far many more owners whom have never had a mag ride issue but the ones who have are more vocal about it.

As they say, you get what you pay for. Better spec = higher price. Looks like it has bi xenon’s too but I’d confirm it first as many have noted, the standard headlights are crap in comparison.

Just read about qualitat who seem to be a NZ based VW Audi specialist, so service work should be as good as an independent VAG specialist here in the UK.









Qualitat European


Qualitat 3.




www.mta.org.nz


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

The heated seats aren't as important on the Alcantara-centre seats. The Alcantara is not nearly as good of a thermal conductor as is leather so they don't "feel as cold" in the winter. I mean they're still nice to have I guess but I rarely ever use mine in the A3 (which has Alcantara-centre seats). TT has leather and the heating but I don't drive it in the winter so kind of moot in my case.

We discussed magride at length in the other thread, I don't really think it's a total disadvantage as long as it's not inop or worn out.

This one does look better than the last though--not modded much, just intake and exhaust and that looks like a pricey CF intake too. The thing on the oil cap I thought about those old-skool dipstick wipe things too but those tend to have a sponge in them to soak the oil, I don't really see that there. Seems more like bracket of some sort. Interesting anyway lol.

Tyres look like Contis, not sure what model or what condition but good sign they had decent rubber on it and not some el-cheapo stuff.

Funny thing about the listing is it seems they too more time to clean the engine bay than the exterior of the car, lol!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> This one does look better than the last though--not modded much, just intake and exhaust and that looks like a pricey CF intake too.


You‘re not wrong there with the intake being pricey. I’ve just looked it up and it only costs £544.00. I’ve even seen them closer to £1,000 😲









RAM AIR SYSTEM | AUDI | TT RS | 8J(A5) | 2010 ~ 2015 | 1.8 LITER | TSFI | QUATTRO | TURBO | FRI-0196


Buy Direct from the Manufacturer! For 31 years, we have been developing arguably the World's Best air intake systems. This beautifully handcrafted high-capacity RAM AIR SYSTEM also known as cold air intake (CAI) makes full use of the engine bay drawing in the greatest amount of ambient air...




www.gruppemdirect.com













GruppeM AUDI TTRS TSFI 2010 - 2015 (FRI-0196) - TORQEN


BRAND: GruppeMAPPLICATION: AUDI TTRS TSFIYEAR: 2010 ~ 2015CHASSIS: BJCEPF E/G: CEP 2.5 LITER TURBOPART NUMBER: FRI-0196REPLACEMENT FILTER: RF-1005




www.torqen.uk


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Good points ^^^. Didn't catch the Bi-Xenon lights, expensive intake or decent tyre choice. Thanks for the comments and I'd best give the owner a call tonight to discuss.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Oh another point is the hood (bonnet) release is not popped in--that's either because it's a C-revision (new) lever in an older revision bracket, or it's simply not pushed in right--to alight into the little "track" in the trim. Being a 2007 though it might be the old bracket, meaning you'd need to replace that for it to fit right. Else there's a high chance of snapping the plastic spline in the handle when pulling the release.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I need to ask about the bonnet latch as did notice it was sitting proud of fixture.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Can anyone run the VIN to see what options this car came with?
VIN= TRUZZZ8J571021418


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Here's some more info on the hood release lever - 








FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Broken Hood Release Lever


For anyone with a broken hood/bonnet release lever, here's a heads up before you order a new one - "The bracket and handle were changed on 1/08/2009. Previously part number 8J1-823-533-B was replaced with Handle 8J1-823-533-C and Bracket 8J1-823-633-C." Most of the hood release levers on eBay...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Interesting. So at a guess the owner must have broke the lever and then replaced with a later model type. Still works to s degree but not a flush fit and may stress the cable ends & break.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

benckj said:


> Can anyone run the VIN to see what options this car came with?
> VIN= TRUZZZ8J571021418


You might be better emailing or phoning your local Audi dealer with the VIN. They should be able to decode and provide you with a list of all factory options selected.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Can anyone run the VIN to see what options this car came with?
> VIN= TRUZZZ8J571021418


You can't directly determine options from the VIN but Audi can use the VIN to look up the car's build list. Option (PR) codes can usually be found in the maintenance manual and on a label where the spare goes.

TRUZZZ8J571021418

World Manufacturer Identifier
TRU Audi Hungary

World Manufacturer Identifier
ZZZ=filler
8J=TT MK2
5=Quattro

Vehicle Identifier Section
7=year 2007
1= Gyor Hungary plant
021418=car's unique serial number


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Code info good to know. Haven't called owner yet as busy with babysitting (grandparent) duties. Hope to get on with it tonight.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you can get an image of the VIN tag shown below, then you can look up the options listed in section (5). Link here on how to do it -








FAQ - Audi Factory Paint and Options Codes


The number next to the red arrow is the paint code. If you want to know what features and options came with your car when it was built, take the data inside the red rectangle and enter it into this website vehicle decoder - VW Group Option Codes Decoder .




www.ttforum.co.uk




More data on options and features can be found here -








FAQ - Factory Options, Body & Wheel Color Codes and...


For anyone who's trying to figure what options or color codes came with your vehicle, check out the following links - VAG Option Codes https://www.ttforum.co.uk/attachments/vag-option-codes-pdf.478875/ Audi Exclusive Interior Materials and Paint Options (2018)...




www.ttforum.co.uk













The sticker lists the following data:
-1- Audi identification number (chassis number)
-2- Audi type / engine power / gearbox type
-3- Engine and gearbox code letters
-4- Paint No. / Interior equipment No.
-5- Optional equipment codes
-6- Fuel consumption and emissions*
Fuel consumption and emissions*
Information on the fuel consumption and emissions is given at the bottom of the data sticker -6-:
-A- Urban cycle consumption (ltr./100 km)
-B- Extra-urban cycle consumption (ltr./100 km)
-C- Combined cycle consumption (ltr./100 km)
-D- Combined CO2 emissions (g/km)


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Honestly, if you emailed Audi with your VIN and asked for a breakdown of the options/PR codes from when the car was built, they should be able to let you know easily, saves faffing about with anything else. Below is what I had back as a response to my email enquiry before I bought my car a year ago. This was from an Audi main dealer, you might want to even phone and speak to someone to be sure your request is acknowledged


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

As always, you are a wealth of information. One question; is the Xenon plus headlights the Bi-xenon? 
I was actually surprised on one of the 2009 cars I test drove to see the 2nd front inner headlight was fake. Guessing the Bi-xenon has 2 functioning lights per side?


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Xenon plus are xenon for both main and dipped beam - hence “Bi-Xenon” They can also be configured at option level to be adaptive lighting (like mine) which basically means that as you’re turning into a corner, the adaptive lights also “turn“ to light up the corner better than non adaptive lights. I’m not 100% sure if Xenon Plus was selected that adaptive lighting was added automatically, not sure if you could have one without the other if that makes sense.

As you can tell from my option code list, the code for Xenon Plus is PX4 and the code for adaptive headlights is 8Q5 - they were originally an option for both adaptive & xenon plus at the cost of around £1,300gbp

Good thread on xenon plus here









Xenon Plus


What exactly are Xenon Plus headlights as opposed to any other type of Xenon?




www.ttforum.co.uk





My lights:










Taken from the original TT brochure (roadster) which suggests adaptive inclusive of xenon plus;


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

benckj said:


> As always, you are a wealth of information. One question; is the Xenon plus headlights the Bi-xenon?
> I was actually surprised on one of the 2009 cars I test drove to see the 2nd front inner headlight was fake. Guessing the Bi-xenon has 2 functioning lights per side?


The inner “headlight” is the drl on my car, switchable on the dash light switch. Bi-xenon uses just one bulb with a shutter to give dip beam pattern.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Jezzie said:


> The inner “headlight” is the drl on my car, switchable on the dash light switch. Bi-xenon uses just one bulb with a shutter to give dip beam pattern.


Same here. Dip/beam provided by the outer most lamp, not the inner most lamps nearest the grille.

@benckj they maybe looked “fake” as they don’t produce the same kind of white light that the xenon’s do. You can buy LED bulbs for the DRL’s that will make them look much more like the xenon’s white light, They need to be CAN friendly and/or can be coded in with VCDS or OBDEleven to work without issue.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> I was actually surprised on one of the 2009 cars I test drove to see the 2nd front inner headlight was fake. Guessing the Bi-xenon has 2 functioning lights per side?


All xenon headlights will be self-leveling (move up / down) to prevent blinding drivers coming from the opposite direction. (You might notice a headlight self-check 'dance' when you first start your car)

Some xenon headlights also move side to side to assist when turning. The amount of movement is slight and they won't shine around a 90° corner but they can help when driving on a long winding country road. You can differentiate between the two by looking at the housing behind the circular trim ring around the xenon bulb. If it is silver it is adaptive. If it is black it is only self-leveling.

Some xenon headlight use a string of LEDs for DLR's while some xenons use an incandescent 'inner' bulb for DRLs. IIRC, there was a semi-recent thread where it appeared the inside bulb on a NZ car didn't work but it turned out the function was turned off in Vagcom (maybe for NZ compliance?) Anyway wouldn't write off the light as “fake” especially in NZ.









Black housing = non-adaptive w/ LED DRLs


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

The one vehicle I test drove had small DRL on bottom side of light and the inner light didn't do anything. Went through all sorts of modes with the Salesman who seemed to know what he was talking about, and they didn't shine at all. 
Good to see the options list and how to identify the Bi-xenon including how they operate. Bit more involved than I thought.
As another thought can you test if headlight swivals by turning on lights and turning steering wheel? My old school 98MR2 turbo has the 'turney' type fog lights which rotate with the steering wheel. Great to show off to your mates but not of any practical use. pic below of fogs after I installed my own DRL's.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

The adaptive “cornering” effect only comes in at above 15mph or similar from recollection. You should be able to test adaptive lighting from a stationary point of view upon start up. You can see the headlight “dance” if you park up close to say for example a garage door, the light beams will tilt up and down to indicate that the xenon’s are working for self levelling,

On mine, they also “dance“ side to side - they’ll do an up and down and a side to side which is obvious. I think this is indicative of adaptive lighting with the “side to side” dance.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> The one vehicle I test drove had small DRL on bottom side of light and the inner light didn't do anything. Went through all sorts of modes with the Salesman who seemed to know what he was talking about, and they didn't shine at all.


Quick check: Scandinavian DRL option coding change was required to make NZ inner bulb functional (Change done via Vagcom)








New Mk2 owner headlight issue


Hi, I have recently purchased a 2006 TT Coupe 2.0T and I am struggling to understand how my headlights work or perhaps something may be faulty. I have model 8J0 941 003 E headlights which I believe are bi-xenon. The problem I have is with the other bulb that sits next to the xenons. If I'm...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Taken from the original TT brochure (roadster) which suggests adaptive inclusive of xenon plus;
> 
> View attachment 490655


Sorry to go slightly OT for a second here but I noticed the bi-xenon option _also_ mentions "chrome-detailed headlight surrounds and *darkened rear light clusters*". Are there actually darker rear tail lamps on some cars? I thought they were all the same! Anyone have a pic(s) of the differences in tail assemblies? I wonder if that was included or an option in Can or US? 'Cause again I never noticed or heard of this up until now.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yep, the darker ones came on V6s, S lines, TTS and RS as standard though. Again, as per UK spec


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, I’ve got dark ones on mine. Here’s some pics showing the difference between “dark red” and ”standard red”









Rear light left dark red Audi TT 06-14 - Eurowagens


Rear light left dark red Audi TT 06-14. Eurowagens is a UK based supplier developing quality car parts at affordable prices with free delivery.




eurowagens.com






















Rear light left red Audi TT 06-14 - Eurowagens


Rear light left red Audi TT 06-14. Eurowagens is a UK based supplier developing quality car parts at affordable prices with free delivery.




eurowagens.com


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Oh I see yeah mine definitely look more like the first ones though not exactly but since those are aftermarket (and also Euro ones) I'm guessing that's why. Definitely don't look like the super red ones on the bottom.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Owner of 2007 V6 contacted me from London and arranging more info and a test drive this weekend. My son will inspect & test vehicle and I'll take from there. Definitely different dealing with the owner who has already departed the country. Keep you posted as no doubt I'll need some advise.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> Owner of 2007 V6 contacted me from London and arranging more info and a test drive this weekend. My son will inspect & test vehicle and I'll take from there. Definitely different dealing with the owner who has already departed the country. Keep you posted as no doubt I'll need some advise.


This "owner no longer in the country" thing is a common scam over here, just a heads up. Often times the scam goes like "I'm in the military and had to deploy", etc. and then you're supposed to send money somewhere and whatever, but it's a total con. Not saying that's happening in this case but just be aware--if something about the transaction sounds fishy, it probably is.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Yea, I'm aware of the 'overseas car selling scam' and this isn't one of them. Already spoke with the owners father who is in the country and I'm arranging service receipts and a test drive for my son. We see how it pans out as I'm still very dubious about buying a car with Magride. Rating this car at a 8/10 and no hurry to find something.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Car wasn't available this past weekend so the test drive will need to wait. Owner doesn't seem to be any any hurry to sell now that he has departed country. Have asked for more information on service history and nothing returned.

There is another one I have my eye on which looks quite decent. Nothing outstanding but low miliage (71kms) & clean.

2008 Audi TT 3.2 QUATTRO COUPE LEATHER INTERIOR | Trade Me Motors


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> There is another one I have my eye on which looks quite decent. Nothing outstanding but low miliage (71kms) & clean.
> 
> 2008 Audi TT 3.2 QUATTRO COUPE LEATHER INTERIOR | Trade Me Motors


Low-end stereo, no steering wheel controls, Alcantara / leather seats. Looks pretty basic from the photos. I'd want to see an options list (guessing this car didn't come with much).

Crap Chinese (Boto?!) tires (warning sign the dealer did just the minimum to prepare the car for sale).
Very rusty front brake calipers

Paint hard to tell? Some pics look good, others maybe not? Wet ground means car was just rinsed off (dealer trick - haze, swirls, etc less likely to show). 

_'Might' _be a good deal if the price is right but you probably could do better.


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## Mozz (6 mo ago)

Imported from Japan? 71km isn't low low, just lowish


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Mozz said:


> Imported from Japan? 71km isn't low low, just lowish


50k mileage is already too high for Japan. In Japan, a cattle beef is more expensive than a car. Cars are very cheap. Without any exaggeration, Car with minor scratch and dent = Junk in Japan.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Basically my thoughts as well ^^^. The dealer prepared it for sale so it got a decent polish but best to look into further. I asked my son to take a for a test drive this weekend so he has something to compare the other (grey/blue) car with. Asking price is $15k so fairly high for what its it.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Tell him not to be shy to drive it hard. That's the only way to test if the engine and transmission are working like it should.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Wolvez said:


> Tell him not to be shy to drive it hard. That's the only way to test if the engine and transmission are working like it should.


If he drives it anything like he drives mine it won't be a problem. We use to race my MR2 a bit as friendly father/son track laps so he knows how to give it some jandel. I live off a dirt road in the country so the Quattro TT gets a fair amount of a workout when he is at home visiting.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

benckj said:


> We use to race my MR2 a bit as friendly father/son track laps so he knows how to give it some jandel.


MR2 or MRS? The biggest problem I have on my MRS is ground clearance. The stock ride height is very low.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Wolvez said:


> MR2 or MRS? The biggest problem I have on my MRS is ground clearance. The stock ride height is very low.


No MRS for me. Gen 3, rev5 SW20 turbo I imported from Japan and built up myself (EMS, A2W IC, WI, Cold air intake, High spec turbo (billet extended tip compressor& high flow turbine), etc, etc. Basically run stock clearance as I travel dirt roads and have to straddle roadkill.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Very nice build. That's my another problem with MRS EFI mod is very pricey and much more complicated. The biggest problem on DOHC engines is they accelerate very fast without even feeling it. I more prefer a torqy OHV (Pushrod) engine that gives me vestibular illusion (False Feeling) that I'm driving very fast but in reality I'm not. A turbocharge or supercharge DOHC engines don't have enough muscle to push me back to my seat and hold me there when you put the pedal to the metal without burning ridiculous amount of fuel. 🤣


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

With turbos you need to have an EMS and supporting mods to tune the car so it performs the way you want it to. Although I'm over 300whp I try and sort my tune so that the car remains responsive in the mid point of the power band. I also use an EMS that has an autotune function based on wideband O2 data and AFR setpoints. This makes the system very functional as the more you drive it the better it gets!


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Sorry guys, got another one to look at as just came up today. Its looking much closer to what I would want. Only real downside is having Magride, average HU with no steering controls and unknown service history which I'll discuss with owner tonight. Notice that mags have been updated from previous pics in advert. Give me your thoughts.
2008 Audi TT | Trade Me Motors


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Not a lot of info, could stand for more detailed pictures.
Can't tell which rims you'll get, Tire age, wear and brand unknown.
No pictures of back seat or boot area.
No pictures of engine bay.

Pro's;
White is much easier to care for than black.
Full leather seats
Seats are heated

Con's:
Car is being sold as an auction (deal killer for me)
Stereo worse than average. Looks to me like old JVC (Display=2-lines of text)
Leather seat bolsters are worn
Carbon fiber steering wheel airbag cover (dangerous as it may affect AB deployment )
Front trim pieces look 'plastidipped'.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Good observations. Do you think it has Bi-Xeon lights?
I would remove the carbon fiber trim inside interior. Thinking it is just an overlay and not a replacement for stock piece of trim? I see its on steering wheel and glove box.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Can't tell on the headlights (no experience with EU / UK headlight configurations) Maybe others can determine from the pics?

Carbon fiber is most likely just an overlay, but still dangerous. Needs to come off. (people do dumb stuff for looks... )

Not sure if you have other options besides an auction site? One of my rules for purchasing a car is I always insist on an inspection to be performed by a mechanic of my choice and you really can't negotiate that when others might bid.

Typically I pay for the inspection and the seller makes the car available to my mechanic. 
If anything is uncovered my offer is adjusted accordingly. If the seller refuses or big problems are found I walk away. 

Sure, it'll cost you a bit for the inspection but you should view it as cheap insurance. A good mechanic can find things that you'd never be able to determine from a walk-around & test drive.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I use to do just that with pre-inspections in the US but has become harder with the auction type of sale. All NZ vehicles are generally on this auction site even those with dealers. Only difference is that dealers have to offer a warranty that vehicle is fit for purpose which gives consumers some rights. I'll see how the discussion with owner goes and take from there.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Spoke to White cars owner last night and he seemed very genuine. Going to send some service info today along with pics of engine bay and wheel/tyres. He did change one failed Magride shock last year at a cost of $2k. Really makes me nervous having this option as I'd either look at an alternative supply (China) or replace with decent coil overs if there was an issue. Wonder if the standard Audi shocks can be used without a compliance headache?

Service info received from Grey car which was pleasing to see. Engine, DSG, Haldex, Brakes & coolant all done including fluids, filters and hardware (rotors, plugs, t-stat). Probably the only other thing I would have done is changed transfer box and rear diff fluids. Owner spent over $4k getting work done which included two new tyres.

Organising my son to test dive both these cars this weekend and see how that goes.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> Low-end stereo, no steering wheel controls, Alcantara / leather seats. Looks pretty basic from the photos. I'd want to see an options list (guessing this car didn't come with much).
> 
> Crap Chinese (Boto?!) tires (warning sign the dealer did just the minimum to prepare the car for sale).
> Very rusty front brake calipers
> ...


It's funny how the Alcantara was considered "base" or a downgrade on the TT whereas on the A3 (and many other cars) it's somehow an upgrade and an added-cost option  Then again I think it's because the TT's leather option was always the "Nappa" leather as opposed to the "lower end" leather?

But yeah those tyres are some lolz right there. Easy fix of course but means $$$ to replace with decent ones. 

I agree on the paint/exterior condition, it's likely iffy. I've found one consistent thing about paint condition. If it looks _great_ in the pictures, there will almost certainly be defects and some issues with it. If you can see visible defects or issues _in the pictures_, it's probably not even worth your time to look at because it will be that bad. Pictures almost never give a good...picture...of the paint condition. This is something you really need to see/inspect in person to know about. Great-looking-in-pics should be a minimum starting point, esp. if you're not looking to repaint any of it in the near future.



benckj said:


> Spoke to White cars owner last night and he seemed very genuine. Going to send some service info today along with pics of engine bay and wheel/tyres. He did change one failed Magride shock last year at a cost of $2k. Really makes me nervous having this option as I'd either look at an alternative supply (China) or replace with decent coil overs if there was an issue. Wonder if the standard Audi shocks can be used without a compliance headache?
> 
> Service info received from Grey car which was pleasing to see. Engine, DSG, Haldex, Brakes & coolant all done including fluids, filters and hardware (rotors, plugs, t-stat). Probably the only other thing I would have done is changed transfer box and rear diff fluids. Owner spent over $4k getting work done which included two new tyres.
> 
> Organising my son to test dive both these cars this weekend and see how that goes.


The good news is you're looking at a lot of different vehicles--this way you'll get a good feel for what is out there, what kind of condition you're looking at reasonably for similar year/mileage/price points, and not being afraid to walk away from whatever you come across even if it "dots all your Is" so to speak. 

On the magride, it does kind of concern me when they only replace one and not the pair. It's almost certain this is due to cost--with standard suspension you'd usually not see this except with cars that are really old, in ghetto condition, etc. where the owner just needs it done super cheap. On magride cars, it's much more likely unfortunately, since we're dealing with expensive stuff. The rear caps alone cost more than standard dampers lol. 

Replacing the magride with standard suspension is the exact same headache it is with replacing it with any other suspension other than the stock magride components. It can't easily be done and a delete kit (like the KW, etc.) is your best option. As far as "compliance" if you mean legally/gov't inspection-wise, that I have no idea about what the laws are like where you are. 

That said 70k kms is not a heck of a lot, I'd suspect the front dampers will still be fine; the other rear (that wasn't replaced) I'd consider replacing but that's just my take on it. If the car drives fine, it's probably fine overall suspension wise.

Definitely need to remove that airbag "carbon" piece there as that could either prevent the bag from deploying or worse become a very dangerous projectile (at your face!) in case of deployment. Other than that, the stereo looks pretty low-rent. I'd say that was replaced because the factory one went bad, not because of any big functional advantages. Can't really tell what tyres are on there but judging by the stereo and single-shock replacement I can't imagine them being anything great. The jelly beans, if included with sale, look like a tasty bonus though


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I’ll keep you posted on progress with inspection & test drive. My son is very good at assessing what is good and bad with cars as I’ve couched him in buying a Golf recently for himself. I’m not desperate to buy as my TT still drives and looks great. Just feel the timing is right for an upgrade.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Planning on talking with the Grey cars owner tonight following the test drive yesterday. Car drives & looks very nice and has FSH. Would plan to swap out Magride shocks with coil overs should I buy car. Need to research the ‘delete’ options and find suitable replacement shocks over next year.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Test drives went well and as the Grey one with FSH came out tops I spoke with owner last night and made an offer. It was tenatively accepted once hubby agrees. One condition is car undergoes a WOF to make sure there are no recent defects that require attention including suspension issues. At the very least that would buy me a year to research and decide on replacement options for shocks. Maybe second hand parts come available that I could purchase in preperation?

My son didn't manage to work out the strange object located on timing cover. Its attached to metal but can rotate around loosely. More investigation required but will be removed all the same. He didn't check for two key FOB's or components in boot. Not having heated seats or being an S-line is a strike against car but not enough to detract from the positives.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

The gray one was my favorite out of the ones you listed. The Gruppe-M air filter, while not really necessary shows the owner was willing to spend money on the car. Take that as a good sign.

Hope it passes its WOF with no major issues.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just to recap on the grey car…..

2007 Audi TT Coupe 3.2 Quattro | Trade Me Motors
*Likes:*
1/ Colour & condition
2/ Low miliage and FSH
3/ Nice aftermarket exhaust & intake
4/ Interior options including heated seats and steering wheel controls.
*Dislikes*
1/ Magride
2/ Faulty inferioir head unit
3/ Not S-line model
4/ Higher asking price

I know you have made it clear about your dislike of mag ride, it if it’s working, why worry. Low miles suggests it shouldn’t be an issue - enjoy it while you can would be my suggestion and worry about a delete as and when.

I think the cost of a delete (if that’s your intention) is far less than trying to upgrade heated seats, MFSW etc. A head unit can be replaced cheap enough. As mentioned, spending that much money on the air intake is a clear sign the owner cherished the car, that coupled with low miles FSH, colour you like, nice exhaust etc. would make this one a no-brainier for me out of all the others you’ve mentioned.

That along with the following you posted shows this car is looked after:

“Service info received from Grey car which was pleasing to see. Engine, DSG, Haldex, Brakes & coolant all done including fluids, filters and hardware (rotors, plugs, t-stat). Probably the only other thing I would have done is changed transfer box and rear diff fluids. Owner spent over $4k getting work done which included two new tyres.”

S-line doesn’t really add anything of note - its just a package of optional extras that can be configured anyway, unless you really need S-line badges and logo’s seats.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Accurate summary above. On the Magride I just like to be prepared for the worst case. If it fails a WOF in my ownership I need to have a plan of attack sorted because getting parts, etc where I live is not exactly easy. I'll keep the Magride for some time to see how well it performs. If it isn't as good as I expect I may want to upgrade to coil overs and if possible sell off the shocks to re-coup some $$. 

On the head unit my son said it sounded decent enough so just may be an intermittant wiring/speaker issue. I'm a little more old school and prefer a USB -MP3 song list rather than BT.
On the seats I doubt upgrading to heated would be an option. If a wreaked car came available near me then it may be worth getting whatever components I need to make work. Someone mentioned in a previous post about Audi not using standard electrical looms so if the option was not included then unlikely the wiring would be there for plug & play. Like searching for any used car you have to be prepared to compromise and accept that not everything on the want list is achiveable.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Oh, I thought heated seats were included?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Steviejones133 said:


> Oh, I thought heated seats were included?


I have in my notes that it doesn't have the heated seats but I can't find where that info is located. I asked my son to check but never heard back so hopefully he would know. The owner was unsure as they live in a fairly hot climate so wouldn't use. Can't quite see switch in the pics provided.
Couple other things I'm checking on include if steering wheel controls work the HU and if car comes with 2x key FOB's.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Just spotted it has the front facing DSG knob on that last pic whilst trying to see if it had heated seats. 
My understanding was all 3.2’s had heated seats but then I guess regional could have had an impact on that. After all if it’s always hot in your location why have heated seats as an option.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ve just checked after reading @Nidana post above - looking at the brochure for the mk2, the 3.2 has ”additional standard features“ that should include heated seats - I can see that the car you’re looking at at least has electric seats so heated should be there too, unless it was a regional variance as mentioned.










Looking further through the brochure, it seems to suggest that heated seats are standard, it’s the electric seats are an option for the 3.2. “S” meaning standard equipment


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> Accurate summary above. On the Magride I just like to be prepared for the worst case. If it fails a WOF in my ownership I need to have a plan of attack sorted because getting parts, etc where I live is not exactly easy. I'll keep the Magride for some time to see how well it performs. If it isn't as good as I expect I may want to upgrade to coil overs and if possible sell off the shocks to re-coup some $$.


Apart from the lowering/raising ability I'm not so sure coilovers would be purely considered an "upgrade" TBH. This is why I didn't go for coilovers on mine but instead did a complete magride replacement. Most likely the suspension on the car you're buying is good as Stevie says; and, might as well just stick with it in that case as the cost of doing so will be much less than getting a decent set of coilovers (which ain't cheap themselves) plus the delete kit. Also, unless the dampers are actually good, won't really be able to sell them for anything. 

Anyway I'd in agreeance with the others that said the grey car was probably my pick of these as well. 



benckj said:


> Like searching for any used car you have to be prepared to compromise and accept that not everything on the want list is achiveable.


Indeed, I'd never have bought a black car myself, if it was something new/ordered lol. Them's the breaks buying used. Thankfully I got pretty much everything else I wanted, apart from car colour  As I said before I wouldn't be that worried on the Alcantara-centre seats, they don't conduct that well and aren't as "cold" [feeling] in the winter like full leather.



Steviejones133 said:


> I’ve just checked after reading @Nidana post above - looking at the brochure for the mk2, the 3.2 has ”additional standard features“ that should include heated seats - I can see that the car you’re looking at at least has electric seats so heated should be there too, unless it was a regional variance as mentioned.
> 
> Looking further through the brochure, it seems to suggest that heated seats are standard, it’s the electric seats are an option for the 3.2. “S” meaning standard equipment


Yeah there's def. regional options differences. Plus OP's seems like it's an "imported" car from Japan so would be subject to the options and option groups they had there.

For example, as we know, cruise control seems to be an option in UK whereas here even the most basic TT would have had that standard. OTOH the footwell lights, the power-fold mirrors, those weren't even options here. 

Speaking of heated seats--these were typically on all cars sold in Canada. While it probably still was an option, basically all the cars sold here are optioned with it. In the late 00s/early 10s, various years Audi also had "no charge heated seats" promos for many models. For example, the first A3 I bought had "no charge Cold Weather Package", consisting of heated seats, washer nozzles, and side mirrors. However in the US, well there's lots of states that are basically warm year 'round (man I wish I lived there lol), so there's lots of cars you can find there w/o the heated seat option. Here it's pretty much unheard of [not having them on an Audi] but if you go to buy/import a US car, then you gotta be careful as it might not.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I've seen several 3.2 V6's without heated seats so don't believe it was a NZ/Jap standard option. One reason its was on the want list is that my wife has a hip injury and having heated seats helps relive the pain.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Might be back to the drawing card as car owner wants closer to $15k now. The more I look into the Magride the more uncertain I am with replacement options and associated costs. Seems every other car I've looked at that has this option the owner has replaced one or more shocks. I even suspect that one of the cars which has a headlight level controller fault may have been related to the Magride.

As I stated earlier more cars come up each week and time is on my side. Latest one has my interest but need to talk with owner regarding previous service history. Not my favourite colour but most other options line up with my list.
2007 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro | Trade Me Motors


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Might be back to the drawing card as car owner wants closer to $15k now. The more I look into the Magride the more uncertain I am with replacement options and associated costs.


Auction had a starting bid of 12k and no offers. Now expecting 15k? 
If it's worth 15K someone would have met the starting bid at a minimum.

Let him know you are still open to negotiation but your offer is now less since he wasted your time...

As far as Magride goes, budget for an additional 4k NZD ($2500 USD) for shocks on top of the selling price (cost for 2 Magrides or 4 coilovers) . If that pushes the price beyond your limit then unfortunately a MK2 might not be a good choice for you.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I have enough money to cover suspension upgrades but would like to consider this as part of my purchase price for Mk2. Unfortunately, many owners do not realise that having an expensive option such as Magride often comes with a hefty repair bill should it fail. Some tend to think that repairs as well as regular maintenance actually increases the overall value of their car.

As far as car search goes I don't mind playing the waiting game to find one I like. As I do my own maintenance and own a Mk1 V6 quattro I know for the most part what to look for. My current car is in impeccable shape and I should have no problems on-selling once a Mk2 is in the driveway.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I have to agree with @FNChaos - perhaps a mk2 isn’t the right car to be looking at for you given the plethora of expensive repairs that can pop up, not limited to just magnetic ride.

What about DSG repairs that could run into thousands…..what about timing chain issues which again could run into thousands.

I know you would like to consider the cost of repairs, but to include them in your budget for purchasing your chosen vehicle is a bit ridiculous - sure, you can do that on a personal level, but don’t expect any vendor to sell you a car any cheaper just because something “might” go wrong with it.

I also think repairs and maintenance are factors which vendors are entitled to take into account when setting a selling price - a car that has been well maintained is worth more than one that hasn’t been - kinda why lots of buyers look for FSH and full Audi service history would be considered perhaps even more valuable as it shows previous owners have been prepared to maintain the vehicle at dealership prices rather than cheap out and go to perhaps a backstreet non-Audi independent.

If a vendor can evidence that they’ve had mechanical repairs done, that also to a degree can be reflected in the selling price as potentially it is future work that a potential buyer can rule out as an expense, say for example, a replacement haldex pump being done.

Then there’s the cost of running, something that hasn’t been mentioned. Even if nothing is wrong, the V6 isn’t a cheap car to just have on the road. Fuel consumption, insurance cost, road tax etc - in the UK petrol is currently £1.70 a litre, my annual road tax is over £600 and insurance around £400. It costs me £1,000 a year just to own the car, let alone the cost to actually drive it anywhere……

If someone came to view a car I was selling, going on about the cost of potential future repairs, I’d be telling them to jog on….

Sorry, just my thoughts….


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

The difference between potential DSG or V6 repairs and Magride is maintenance. There is literally nothing that can be done to keep the Magride suspension in top condition or rebuild it if it does fail. The engine and DSG can be assessed during test drives or scanned to provide an indication of their condition. I'm not expecting the seller to negate any potential failures but as an informed buyer I'm entitled to search for the vehicle that as the least amount of issues including those which have a fairly high failure rate. 

From what I've found the Magride failures are more age related than miliage meaning every V6 I'm looking at is at least 13 years old. Replacement parts are also more expensive in NZ due to our remote location and often selection of aftermarket products is limited. As I mentioned before the suspension is a WOF requirement so if found to be faulty including error codes the car would be taken off the road until repaired. The expense of owning a car in NZ can be high but I drive limited km's and as I live in the country my insurance and registration is reasonable.

I appreciate the discussion on this subject as it helps form an opinion on what I'm looking for. As a former amature track runner and Mechanical Engineer I do enjoy a modern sports car and we have incredible mountain roads to experience where I live. This is why I like driving a TT quattro and if Mk3's were not insanely expensive I'd even consider that model. If the right Mk2 doesn't come up I may even wait a few years for newer model prices to depreciate a bit further.

Keep the comments flowing...


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> The difference between potential DSG or V6 repairs and Magride is maintenance. There is literally nothing that can be done to keep the Magride suspension in top condition or rebuild it if it does fail. The engine and DSG can be assessed during test drives or scanned to provide an indication of their condition. I'm not expecting the seller to negate any potential failures but as an informed buyer I'm entitled to search for the vehicle that as the least amount of issues including those which have a fairly high failure rate.
> 
> From what I've found the Magride failures are more age related than miliage meaning every V6 I'm looking at is at least 13 years old. Replacement parts are also more expensive in NZ due to our remote location and often selection of aftermarket products is limited. As I mentioned before the suspension is a WOF requirement so if found to be faulty including error codes the car would be taken off the road until repaired. The expense of owning a car in NZ can be high but I drive limited km's and as I live in the country my insurance and registration is reasonable.


The magride is the same as any other suspension--the dampers will wear out, they're a wear and tear item just like brakes, tyres, wheel bearings, ball joints, etc. Only thing is the dampers cost like 8-10x what a standard damper costs, lol. While you're right in that gauging "what life they have left" is not really possible, there's lots of other things that you'd have no gauge for either. If it's working correctly when you buy it, there's no reason to think it will fail in a couple months, but on an older car? Sure, it's going to be more likely to wear out in a few years as opposed to lasting 10 years.

When I bought my TT, I knew the car had high miles and I did indeed budget in magride replacement in what I was paying for the car. However I knew from the get go I was going to replace it all. I figured in about $4k for that, and ended up paying a little over $3k I think for that particular thing--full suspension refresh. I could have bought a lower-miles example but then the thing is you're going to have to replace the suspension at some point. Instead of paying like $8k more for a nicer, lower miles example, and still having to change it after 4-5 years, I opted to go for a cheaper car and I intended on (and did) a full magride replacement within 2 years. 

In any event you seem _very_ focused on this point. I think what you should do is simply *not buy a car with the option*. While I have said it's not something to necessarily avoid, in your case it seems like it is and this will just simplify things for you and cut your worries. Should you see that shock button on the car? Move on to the next one, simple as that.

As for your Mk1, I hadn't realised you were getting rid of it...I thought [Mk2] was an addition. If you've had that car since new or had it a long time and it's in as nice shape as you say and you're expecting a used car be the same, it's a fairly tall order. IMO, you're going to find flaws and faults on everything and become overly concerned with them (just like the magride obsession) if you are trying to buy a used car like that. There _are_ going to be cars out there that have been as well taken care of as yours, but they are very few and far between. Finding one is gonna be like striking gold lol. 



benckj said:


> if Mk3's were not insanely expensive I'd even consider that model. If the right Mk2 doesn't come up I may even wait a few years for newer model prices to depreciate a bit further.


You say that but you were just now almost at a done deal/purchase. If the seller had not been a clown about it, you would have bought the car now, so I think your idea of "waiting a few years" is not really what you want to do, just a thought. TBH waiting more time, even if you're ready to let it go now, you're just going to keep coming back to this every once and a while and it's going to end up being a lot of your time and thoughts wasted on it. Either call it a day *now* and revisit in 2025, or just find the car you want and get it over with. Don't turn your life into a mission of finding a perfect Mk2...that doesn't have magride lol.

Whatever you decide to do, best of luck in finding something you're happy with


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for the valuable insight. There seems to be a fair amount of Mk2's coming on the market just now and most are in very good to excellent shape. Having my son located in our largest city has opened up the possibilities to test drive the ones which take my interest. It may appear as though I'm quite picky with my selections and option list but that comes with the experience of owning a TT and the information provided from other owners in this forum. Guess you can never do too much homework. 
Goal is to purchase a car before Christmas so I have the holidays to work on the new and my old car getting ready for selling. My daughter lives in London and will be returning in Jan with her hubby and new baby so would like to get all sorted before then. No doubt they will be driving the new car racking up a few km's so want to ensure everything is in order.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I wish you the best of luck finding the TT of your dreams, I’d say preferably for you, one without mag ride as that’s a serious hang-up about it you have. Whilst I appreciate it’s an expense if it went wrong, so are a whole host of other things too. There isn’t such a thing as TT that isn’t gonna cost money as mk2’s are getting long in the tooth.

They old adage applies with more or less any used car - you pays your money, you takes your chances…..

Good luck, hope you settle on one before Christmas 🎅


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

benckj said:


> Might be back to the drawing card as car owner wants closer to $15k now. The more I look into the Magride the more uncertain I am with replacement options and associated costs. Seems every other car I've looked at that has this option the owner has replaced one or more shocks. I even suspect that one of the cars which has a headlight level controller fault may have been related to the Magride.
> 
> As I stated earlier more cars come up each week and time is on my side. Latest one has my interest but need to talk with owner regarding previous service history. Not my favourite colour but most other options line up with my list.
> 2007 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro | Trade Me Motors
> ...


Back on topic;
Any comments on the latest TT I'm looking at? I have already spoken with owner and my boy is going to test drive this next week. Service details are limited but car does look in decent shape. My take on the evaluation;
*Likes*
1/ Nice interior with leather heated seats
2/ No Magride
3/ Aftermarket new 19" wheels and decent tyres
4/ Comes with new WOF and Rego.
*Dislikes*
1/ Not a fan of silver colour
2/ HU is average with no steering controls
3/ No previous service info. Owner only owned car for 6 months.
4/ Mid range kms at 108k


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Any comments on the latest TT I'm looking at?


As you've listed, wheels look good, radio is crap. No steering wheel controls, mileage is higher than other cars you've looked at. However, you are wrong about the color. Silver is the best color for a TT. 
Silver is Germany's designated racing color. Silver is sporty but not gaudy (making it the most appropriate color for a car designed for the luxury-sport market). Silver TT's are iconic.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Silly question time. If I get a car with an average HU I'll most likely replace with an Android touch screen. Apart from having modern features such as Wifi, BT, GPS and camera input (inc recording) I'd like to run VAGCOM on the unit and possibly plug into the OBD11 port for not only diagnostics but maybe on board monitoring of engine/trans parameters. Is this possible and are there any software packages to create and display digital gauges?

As a matter of interest this is what I run in my MR2. It has an aftermarket EMS but I've become use to having these gauges on screen. Clean and informative data with 3 custom screens to choose between on the fly. Dreaming or not?


















Maybe using something like a OBD2 dongle and Torque program??


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’m sorry, but if your not a fan of silver cars, why the hell are you even looking at it……this is getting tedious. You keep throwing cars up asking for opinions but surely it’s your opinion that matters most? I mean, Surely you have to like what you’re gonna be looking at every day, regardless of mag ride, head unit, alloys etc etc etc

Heres what I’d suggest you do. Write a list of what you WANT and what you DONT. This would include colour, spec, mileage, service history etc. If it doesn’t fit YOUR bill, ain’t much point looking at them further really is there?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Steviejones133 said:


> I’m sorry, but if your not a fan of silver cars, why the hell are you even looking at it……this is getting tedious. Surely you have to like what you’re gonna be looking at every day, regardless of mag ride, head unit, alloys etc etc etc


Sorry I don't mean to be tedious. Any used car I look at will have some compromises and the colour is one of those. Yes I'd prefer a different colour as I have a silver TT now and over 1/2 the cars on the road here are silver, but its not a deal breaker. 

To keep you entertained this is a pic of my current MK1. Not sure if this colour is the same as the Mk2 models, presume that it is.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s a nice looking mk1 👍🏻 and I don’t mean to be harsh. I really do think you need to kinda prioritise your list in terms of things like in an order of some kind. For example, for me (personally, and no offence to anyone who owns one) I’d never buy a silver car because I’ve never really liked silver paint - end of story for me, but that’s my taste. So, ergo, I wouldn’t even look at one…….same goes for you with things like mag ride etc

For me, being shallow and vein 😂 colour was close to the top of my list, if not the top. Didn’t want black, silver white or red (not that I’m picky much!) which put me at a disadvantage right away as most cars on the UK roads are black, silver, white or red! next came condition, history, mileage etc. Next came the options that were further down the list, head units didn’t even come into play as they’re easy changed….

You get the gist?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

To be fair I'm using the experts on this forum to help shape my priorities as I'm not familiar with the Mk2. If it wasn't for this forum I probably would have bought a 2.0 TSFI with Magride. After debating the pro's & cons and then driving a few I decided against these features. 

Ultimately, it will come down to price. I would have bought the Blue/Grey car and accepted Magride if the owner would have excepted my reasonable offer which allowed some money to replace/upgrade suspension. As it is we couldn't do a deal and the car is back on the market. Should the owner wish to push the sale and obtain market price she could auction with a low reserve price.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Most things in life do come down to price, unfortunately. Maybe you should set a separate budget for repairs and a separate budget for purchase price. You cant incorporate the two as sellers won’t wear cost of future repairs, no matter how you feel about mag ride etc.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> Silly question time. If I get a car with an average HU I'll most likely replace with an Android touch screen. Apart from having modern features such as Wifi, BT, GPS and camera input (inc recording) I'd like to run VAGCOM on the unit and possibly plug into the OBD11 port for not only diagnostics but maybe on board monitoring of engine/trans parameters. Is this possible and are there any software packages to create and display digital gauges?


VCDS? No. VCDS has no Android version, don't think it ever will--that's mostly what HUs of this type are going to be running; even if you tried to run it via a video or HDMI input you'd need a laptop in the car or something to run it. There's VCDS Mobile but you need a different VCDS thing for that--one that has the Wifi in it and it ain't cheap.

Something like OBDeleven would work though since it uses an Android app--i.e. if you get an Android HU you could use it that way.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Good points on HU available operating system. I have seen HU's that come with a Win10/ short version made for tablets (sorry can't remember name). VCDS probably not really necessary if another program can gather & display data.

Think I'll do some research on running OBDeleven or Torque with BT connection to OBD2 port & Droid HU. Might be a bit of fun playing with the software and different gauge packages. Also easy enough to install a TPMS system which in my opinion is essential equipment with TT's given the low profile tyres and no spare.

So thinking ahead, what engine/trans parameters can be monitored?


> RPM
> GPS speed
> Engine temp
> coolant temp
> ...


Would probably import a Chinese unit from somewhere like Aliexpress that has all the functions I want. I don't need to break the bank over this as car is not intended to be track orientated. My wife & I do a few events each year which involves a track or road rally runs but nothing serious.

I see another thread coming on. Just pie in the sky dreaming stuff now.


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## BauhausBrick (10 mo ago)

There is no smart way to buy a used car other than to pony up the money for a proper mechanical inspection once you find one with no red flags in service history and an owner who is normal. That's literally it. These cars have a certain amount of age on them now and the average car owner doesn't have a clue, so there is a lot of tedious work you have to do if you don't want to pony up for repairs. It does get to a point - which I've seen with so many amateur car people - where you question whether they would have been better off just paying the money up front instead of wasting time chasing imperfect cars.

You're saying you're using the experts on this forum to help shape your priorities - which is fine - but this isn't an endless free service to pump fears and doubts into and hope you'll get an answer that finally feels right. It never will.

Re Magride - why would a seller bump down price just because you don't like magride? Take it or leave it and do what you want to it. As someone suggested - budget for the base car, and then budget for essential conversions, mash the two together and then ask yourself why a 2.0 TFSI with standard everything won't do the job. You say you don't want to break the bank but you are talking about replacement head units - which is another complete money and emotion hole which in the end looks worse and has worse functionality than a phone on a proper mount and a bluetooth dongle.

I agree with the posters above - get realistic about what you want, prepare to spend more money than you budgeted to get it, or re-assess what you actually want/need.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

“Analysis paralysis” is what you’re describing! But for many people, me included, I actually enjoy setting up a spreadsheet of all the options, pros, cons, etc. to try to find the “right” car, house, camera, laptop, …
Maybe it’s the thrill of the hunt. And when the purchase is concluded then comes “buyer’s regret”…
Jez


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Being an Engineer I like to analyse all the options and weight the factors to make a decision. I have time and money so it’s not a problem to wait. Not everyone is like this and I appreciate sharing others view. We can all respectfully learn from each other which is the power of forums such as this.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> That’s a nice looking mk1 👍🏻 and I don’t mean to be harsh. I really do think you need to kinda prioritise your list in terms of things like in an order of some kind. For example, for me (personally, and no offence to anyone who owns one) I’d never buy a silver car because I’ve never really liked silver paint - end of story for me, but that’s my taste.
> 
> For me, being shallow and vein 😂 colour was close to the top of my list, if not the top. Didn’t want black, silver white or red (not that I’m picky much!) which put me at a disadvantage right away as most cars on the UK roads are black, silver, white or red! next came condition, history, mileage etc. Next came the options that were further down the list, head units didn’t even come into play as they’re easy changed….
> 
> You get the gist?


LOL I am nearly the same. I really dislike "colours" like black, silver/grey, and white. I mean black and white aren't even colours lol, hence the quotes. They seem so generic and cookie-cutter to me. I had to drive my sister's Q5 rrecently (which is white, I told her not to get white, she bought it new and could have had any colour!) and I'm at the light in a line of cars and no word of a lie, there were five cars in front of me and two behind. Every. Single. Car. Was white! I was just thinking "I gotta get outta here, this is madness!" 🤣



Steviejones133 said:


> Most things in life do come down to price, unfortunately.


And this^ is how I ended up with a black TT 🤣 But it's the only one thing I truly don't like about the car. Used TTs are few and far between here, so pickings are slim to begin with. TBH it's a "whole country search" when you're looking for one here and Canada is a huge country. I looked into some that were so far away shipping costs had to be figured in, lol. I think if it was my only/main car I would have been much more concerned about colour, but due to price and everything else considered I bit the bullet and bought a black car. Given I have my other car which was bought new and ordered specifically in "my colour", I didn't focus too much on the colour; else, for a TT, I'd be looking a lonng time. The "cool" colours like blues, the nice orange, those come up pretty rarely. Even red is not that common TBH. Few months after I bought mine a really nice orange one popped up on Autotrader--I actually _would_ have bought that one instead of mine but obviously it was months later.

The one I bought would be considered "very high miles" so it was about $4k on average less than other just regular "high miles" examples (even ones that were years older) and probably about $8k on average less than low-miles "really nice shape" cars. As said I weighed everything against each other, how much work I'd be doing on the car, the parts I'd need etc. and ended up with the "cheap" car which did also have its advantages as it was totally stock and never modded (absolutely the only "mod" was the pretty light window tint) and an interior that was in _great_ shape apart from some scratches on the RNS screen (now fixed) and some minor scratching/damage to the Audi logo on the steering wheel/airbag. The miles were accumulated through a lot of highway driving, and I don't think either of the previous owners had driven the car as hard as I would. 

Anyway after everything I've put into the car, I'm still quite happy with the final result and the $$$ paid overall. 



benckj said:


> Being an Engineer I like to analyse all the options and weight the factors to make a decision. I have time and money so it’s not a problem to wait. Not everyone is like this and I appreciate sharing others view. We can all respectfully learn from each other which is the power of forums such as this.


LOL yeah I'm not an engineer and do the same. I had some very lengthy PM's going back and forth with a couple other guys on a different forum when I was buying mine. It's better to over-analyse than under; but, only so far as a point. Myself I had the same thing happen, and the best way to put it to rest was just buy the car lol. As I was saying the longer you draw it out for, the more time you'll waste on it. There's a point at which you should know what you want, what you want to pay, and the compromises you're willing to make (you can see how in my case, it was colour). You would not believe the details I covered and the fine tooth I went through the car with on my own, before sending it off to get a PPI done. Even after all of this there's one thing I haven't mentioned here yet is that even after all the research I did, all the nitpicking I did with the car from the tyres to the tail lights, even after the PPI, there's still something (and a rather alarming something) that is going on with the engine.

One thing I _should_ have had done, but didn't, was to get an oil change done on the car before I bought it. Why? Well the engine is throwing copper glitter in the oil, and I can't figure out where from. It's not the rod bearings because, after owning the car and doing the first oil change and finding this, the next spring I pulled the oil pan to check them. Also there's not even any copper in the rod bearings on this car, lol. No play in the turbo shaft, car doesn't even burn much of any oil. Compression tests good on all cylinders. Engine runs/drives very nice and has a quiet idle (other than the standard DI injector tick). The heck if I know where it's coming from lol. The only thing I can think is it's the coming from the turbo thrust washer, even though there wasn't any play when I pulled the down pipe and was able to check the turbo shaft. 

In any event I modded the car and don't drive like grandma, and don't think about it too much. I'm not that concerned. My point here is just to say that no matter what you do, no matter how many Ts you cross and Is you dot? There could still be something you missed, couldn't have known, or becomes an alarming discovery, after you buy the car. So in the end all the pre-analysis and research is only worth so much and getting into it incessantly and obsessively, is just going to do you more harm than good as you'll drive yourself nuts thinking about it!


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Looks like the owner of the low miliage Blue car has accepted my previous offer. Just waiting now for a WOF inspection to be completed before we seal the deal. This was a close call as my son test drove the silver car without Magride yesterday and was quite impressed with its condition. I was going to make the owner an offer today.

So after all the research it looks like I will own a Mk2 with Magride after all. As long as there is no faults with the shocks now I will have a year to research to decide if I keep or replace.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s great that you have settled on a car, albeit with mag ride which I know you had apprehensions about. My only advice would be to enjoy the car when you get her, forget the worry of mag ride until it comes up and maybe put some $$$ aside for when it does - if it does during your ownership.

I must say, the one you’ve settled on was my pick of the bunch……if that’s the one with the GruppeM carbon air filter? - sorry, lost track 🤣


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Steviejones133 said:


> That’s great that you have settled on a car, albeit with mag ride which I know you had apprehensions about. My only advice would be to enjoy the car when you get her, forget the worry of mag ride until it comes up and maybe put some $$$ aside for when it does - if it does during your ownership.
> 
> I must say, the one you’ve settled on was my pick of the bunch……if that’s the one with the GruppeM carbon air filter? - sorry, lost track 🤣


Yes its the one with the GruppeM intake filter housing and aftermarket exhaust. Still not sure what the metal clamp thing is on top of cam chain housing. My son checked it out and its attached with a fixing but is loose. Also a mental note to self is to confirm heated seats and 2 key FOBs. Starting to loose track myself.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Haha, regarding that strange thing on the cam chain cover, it’s obviously not OEM nor seems to serve any discernible purpose so I wouldn’t waste any sleep over it, just remove it and be done with it. I really do think you have picked the cream from the crop of what you’ve posted about, heated seats? - I’ve got ‘em…..sure, they’re nice in the winter time. If you’re getting into a freezing cold car, leather is COLD on the seats but the heated seats still take a time to warm IMHO. Retrofitting could prove expensive but I personally wouldn’t classify heated seats as a deal breaker……


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I think the strange fixing on cam cover is only a concern if it is attached with nut & bolt as could come loose and drop hardware into chain area. Need to investigate this one further once my son collects. Pic attached below for those who have not seen.
The heated seats are not a deal breaker just one of those options nice to have especially since my wife has minor hip problems. The heated seats seem to help her in cold morning winter driving. I really wouldn't retrofit unless there was some other reason to replace seats later on.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Have you asked the previous owner if he knows what it’s for? Maybe it was added before he owned it…..


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Looks like the owner of the low miliage Blue car has accepted my previous offer





benckj said:


> Yes its the one with the GruppeM intake filter housing and aftermarket exhaust.


Had me confused. I remember a grey one, Was thinking what blue car?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> Had me confused. I remember a grey one, Was thinking what blue car?


Guess it's the one from page 1 of the thread... It's that very light blue colour--looks like Glacier Blue but I didn't know that Mk2s came in that--might be a different colour name but similar I think?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

FNChaos said:


> Had me confused. I remember a grey one, Was thinking what blue car?


Its sort of a Blue/Grey colour. I asked about the hardware on top of cam cover and they didn't know. Hoping my son can have a better look at it when he picks car up in a week or so. Just getting WOF done tomorrow to make sure its all ready to go.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

WOF passed and I paid deposit $$ to owner. Son going to pick-up car on Saturday and store in his garage. Have already bought an interior LED conversion kit and BT/Wifi dongle to use in OBD2 for comms. Not planning to do anything major with car when it comes down at Christmas apart from cleaning up wheels and probably change rear diff and transfer box fluids.

Thanks for everyones help with my search. I've learned quite a bit about this model and plan to be an active member on this section of forum now. Now to clean up my Mk1 and put it up for sale. With some luck I hope to find a enthuisastic buyer like myself who appreciates the FSH details.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Excellent, looks like that's the end of your search! Looks like a pretty nice and well kept car--hope you enjoy it! 😁


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

So glad you settled on one that you like and are happy with, wishing you many years of happy ownership 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I know exactly how you feel in describing the colour. Mines petrol blue so you would think, oh, it’s blue…..well yes and no. It’s pearlescent so it changes in different lighting conditions. In bright light, it’s definitely blue, in darker light, it’s more like a greenish blue. Hard to describe but pictures help.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Very nice colour indeed. I quite like the modern iredesint shades that change dependent on the light. Hope mine does same. Completing the deal today with son picking car up, transferring remaining $$$ and changing ownership papers. Quite an odd process as I've had to deal with everything remotely and so has owner as she now resides in the UK. 

Won't see the car in person until Christmas when my son makes the 2k km journey South. Plans on arriving on Christmas eve all going to plan. I'm pleased but my wife is extremely excited as its actually her car to use as DD. I bought her our Mk1 for her 60th b'day present and flew her upto collect. Now we need to clean it up and sell off. Should make a nice car for someone as well.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Son arrived for Christmas with our new TT with FSH after purchasing car couple months ago. Its everything I've hope for and even more. He had a brilliant trip now from Auckland racking up nearly 2000kms. Just doing the initial clean-up and I'll start posting pics. Loads of brake dust on wheels.

Initial drive & inspection info;
*Pros*
1/ Alcatara seats are awesome as is adjustment for my long legs. Need steering wheel to come forward.
2/ Car colour (Blue/grey) is excellent.
3/ Performance is great with mod exhaust, intake and possibly tune (sounds fantastic)?
4/ Head unit better than I thought with GPS and Torque already installed (more on this later).
5/ More usable space inside than my Mk1.

*Cons*
1/ Passenger window doesn't close all the way when door open/close. Micro switch adjust?.
2/ Coolant dropping to Min level after filling/driving. Getting G13+ OAT concentrate to top up.
3/ Steering wheel HU controls not fully operational.
4/ Bonnet lever not quite right as it coming off.
5/ Couple cables hanging down below drivers side underbelly. Need to put on ramps and investigate.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

First pics before clean-up.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Just cleaned up car and took into town to fuel up plus get some coolant concentrate. Fuel light came on and it took approx 52 liters. My Mk1 tank is around 73 liters and looking up specs I get a range between 45-65 liter capacity. Can anyone tell me what the actual capacity is?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

First time crawling under car to have a look for coolant drain. Thought I'd drop a couple litres and then fill back up with concentrate. No port located.
Very surprised to find the under engine guard plate missing. Seems like there may be other mods with a strange alloy bracket and possibly other pieces missing. Disappointed with this find and will be looking to rectify. Do you see any other things I should be aware of?

Also pic of wires that were dangling in mid section of car. Thought I could secure but need to get car a bit higher for a look so I don't leave wires resting against exhaust or chafting against heat shield. Need to look at my MK1 but think there was a plastic cover over all of this too.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Online pics of under missing tray/guards; If I'm going to source are all the diff models run same guards or is V6 special?














.....


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

As you discovered, there is no coolant drain. Draining requires you to pull off the lower radiator hose. 
Splash shield is missing. I believe the 3.2 came with the two piece guard (shown in your last pic).
Cables look like '_spliced_' repair job? Heat shield shows signs of damage in the same area so maybe repairs after hitting something?

Note: I don't see wheel chocks...


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Might just suck out as much as possible from reservoir then refill. Not really sure why its dropping to MIN and then staying there. Thought cap may have been missing O ring seal but it's the same as my Mk1 without a rubber seal. Not really sure if this is a pressure cap with relief valve but will swap with my Mk1 and give a try to see if it changes anything.

Yeah, I need to have a better look at cables as maybe they were damaged and repaired. The alloy exhaust fire shield is slightly damaged in this area as well but looks like only two places near mounts. Everything else in this area looks fine.

Thinking missing rear cover guard is a result of the aftermarket exhaust. Going to source a replacement set all the same. Are the other model covers the same or is the V6 different?

BUSTED. I made up a set of decent wheel chocks but neglected to use them today. I'm bad.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Had a small session with the new girl getting to know her better. Fasteners, body scrapes, short polymer polish, wheels, interior make over, etc. Looks to me the bonnet lever is wrong so I cut off a couple tabs to get it fitting a little closer. Will add it onto parts list as I’m fairly sure this is the wrong part.









Found a strange bracket under drivers seat and then after looking around found the cubby hole jammed under rear of seat. Fitted in place and also checked to see the one on passengers side was never used. What a great place to store bits. On my phone but will try and attach some pics.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Couple more pics;


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

She’s looking good! - looks like you have lucked out on the storage pack with the under seat bins and pax footwell cargo net, all very handy spaces. One thing please…..get some chrome cleaner on those exhaust tips, that’d make a world of difference aesthetically 👍🏻


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Also installed my TPMS and switching all interior lights to LEDs. Found a couple USB ports in glove box and intend to install a 12v/USB voltage monitor there to use for phones, radar detector, etc. The HU seems pretty decent but steering wheel controls do not seem to work. It will do for awhile but thinks I’ll get a new one with larger screen and more options. I’d like to run Torque gauges and have TPMS droid system on it as well. Better let the bank balance recover first or possibly push the sale of my Mk1.

good point on polishing up exhaust tips. They have a nice blue tinge now and we don’t salt roads so these things stay decent enough. Summer here now with 31C predicted for tomorrow.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

HU maybe? - save some pennies mind you….









Work In Progress - Alpine F309e Halo9 with 9" Screen


Found this on YouTube for anyone interested in a replacement for the OEM head unit - Link to the product page on the Alpine website - https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/alpi ... o-ilx-f309 Thanks Ian! :)




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for the link. To be fair I’ll probably order something from AliExpress with just the options & size I want. Have run a Chinese HU in my MR2 for years and it’s awesome. Only cost me a tad over $100 back then but looking around the $3-400 mark now. Rough translation is <£200.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thought I’d made some progress with the front bonnet latch. On about my 3rd go it snapped off. Noticed the plastic spline was twisted so only a matter of time. Need to drill a hole in broken bit and extract out. It’s really a poorly designed system. Looks nice but definitely form over function which was probably designed by a Draftsman rather than Engineer.

I’ll have a looke around forum but thinking I might make a metal spline insert and connect this to the handle. Maybe one of the Torx bits comes close to the right shape ??
Time to investigate.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Couple of questions under the hood -

(1) What is this device on top of the valve cover, aft of the oil cap...?
(2) Is the dip stick tube bent to the right...?

For reference - broken hood release lever discussed *here* in the KB.

Given that the under body panel is missing and there is obvious damage to the heat shields and what looks like the Lambda sensor wires, I would make a very careful inspection of everything under the front end, in and around the engine/transmission including the bevel box and steering box for any damaged or missing components.

When you get around to replacing them, there's more info on the belly pans *here*.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

The bracket on the valve cover was something stuck on with double sided tape. Believe it was to do with intake Ram. Removed all the same.
Dip stick tube is solid but does appear to be mis-aligned. Need to look at this a bit closer.
Yes I’ll be looking at underbody closer but so far everything is in order. I want to also use VagCom to scan systems plus check chain wear.

I must say given the low kms and money spent on car for routine service at the dealership I’m a little surprised at my findings so far. Car does drive and run exceptionally. Want to get all these little bugs worked out.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Bent the dipstick tube back into place and while there found a repaired diaphragm bracket on intake plenum. Starting to suspect the car had frontal impact damage. Paint, panels & gaps look perfect but I’m suspicious of the small broken parts being found.

On the lighter side I glued & screwed the bonnet latch and inspected cable bracket plus lubricated. Not really sure what model bracket is installed but handle is the C type. Will order up a new handle but the better part of 7 weeks deliveryunless of course I go the stealership.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)




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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I’m not so sure that’s correct as the handle didn’t fit very well into bracket. I had to mod handle spear to push it firmly into place. Thinking it was broken before and replacement was a C design from Audi.

Will order another handle but will try and get bracket as well if mine isn’t a C design. Any way to tell from supplied pics?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Since you have a 2007, you most likely have a Revision "B" handle and bracket. Unfortunately, you will have to remove the bracket to verify the revision letter since it's on the back. You might be able to find another "B" handle, but they are very hard to find. I would advise replacing both the bracket and handle with a Revision "C" simply because if the handle breaks again, it's much easier to find a replacement.









This is what it looks like when you attempt to install a Revision "C" handle into a Revision "B" bracket (LHD shown) -


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I saw those pics before and after studying them I think I do have a C bracket. Problem being was the tabs on handle that didn’t line up correctly. I pre-maturely cut them off before reading the mod post and handle fit much better.

Had a quick look around and the rev C brackets in RHD are hard to come by. Think I’ll purchase a new C handle and if it doesn’t fit properly I’ll source a bracket from a wrecker.

Thsnks for all your help. Slowly working my way through this puzzle of a car. Hope my skeleton closet is nearly empty.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Just finished off the intake diaphragm repair as previous attempt was fairly average. Had to remove flash induction pod for access. It’s nothing more than a CF shroud with a K&N pod filter inside. I’d sooner have a stock system with paper panel filter TBH.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

LOL missed a few posts here and you have an insane amount of notes and things in just those few posts 

Some thoughts/answers on some of it:


benckj said:


> Initial drive & inspection info;
> *Pros*
> 3/ Performance is great with mod exhaust, intake and possibly tune (sounds fantastic)?


That's a VR6 for you...always sounds fantastic haha. As for being tuned, it's possible but doubtful. A lot of money for very little gain on an atmo engine, and of course the need to use high-octane fuel. 



benckj said:


> 5/ More usable space inside than my Mk1.


Wow the Mk1 must be _tiny_ inside then lol.



benckj said:


> *Cons*
> 1/ Passenger window doesn't close all the way when door open/close. Micro switch adjust?.


Hold the power window in the up position for a few seconds to adjust it. Failing this it might need to be adjusted--I think Ian (IPG3.6) had a post on doing this (it's probably somewhere in his Mk2 build thread).



benckj said:


> 3/ Steering wheel HU controls not fully operational.


What do you mean by "not fully" operational? Like only volume works and track up/down doesn't or nothing works? Steering wheel controls require two things to work:
1. A CAN bus interface for wheel controls (sometimes combined with a turn-on interface, sometimes separate)
2. A HU that can make use of such an interface (i.e. has wired SWC input)



benckj said:


> Just cleaned up car and took into town to fuel up plus get some coolant concentrate. Fuel light came on and it took approx 52 liters. My Mk1 tank is around 73 liters and looking up specs I get a range between 45-65 liter capacity. Can anyone tell me what the actual capacity is?


It's a "standard" ~15 [US] gallon (57L) tank--many small to midsize cars have this size of tank. I think the quattro cars are either a half gallon more or less (can't remember which) compared to the FWD; also the roadster may have a slightly different volume. Filling 52L into the tank means it was about empty to the fuel light--sounds right.



benckj said:


> 2/ Coolant dropping to Min level after filling/driving. Getting G13+ OAT concentrate to top up.





benckj said:


> First time crawling under car to have a look for coolant drain. Thought I'd drop a couple litres and then fill back up with concentrate. No port located.


No draincock on the car...or any other PQ35 car for that matter. See the recent "how-to" thread made regarding coolant change. 


benckj said:


> Might just suck out as much as possible from reservoir then refill. Not really sure why its dropping to MIN and then staying there.


If the coolant has been changed recently, as in _very_ recently or in the immediate past, it's normal for the coolant to drop after refilling if it was not refilled with a pressurised filler like they use at the stealer. Again, see the coolant drain/fill thread for info. So there's some small possibility it could be normal. I'm not familiar with whether there is a bleed valve on the VR6 or not (the 2.0Ts do not have one of those either). If there is a bleed valve you can use that to ensure the system is bled at least.

If the coolant was _not_ changed just before you got it, this is not normal. Coolant needs to be checked cold in this vehicle. If the vehicle is hot, the level may indicate slightly higher than it is (including being slightly above the max line, which is permissible/normal). If the coolant level continues to drop regularly, you have a leak somewhere. Could be leaking externally at a hose, radiator, etc. which isn't so bad as you'll just need to find the leak and fix whatever needs fixing. An internal leak such as head gasket, oil cooler(s), etc. are much more concerning as if coolant contaminates the oil or trans fluid, you can make short work of your engine/trans. Don't ignore a coolant level that continues to drop.



benckj said:


> Very surprised to find the under engine guard plate missing.


That's not all that surprising. This is a commonly missing part on used vehicles--should have been noted on a PPI, along with that weird wiring fix. Often times they get broken and discarded, or forgotten at quick-lube joints if a PO took the car there. Some owners even intentionally discard these believe it or not, because they don't want to go to the hassle of removing it each time they change their oil. This is a stupid move for a variety of reasons but...some people are stupid lol.



benckj said:


> Seems like there may be other mods with a strange alloy bracket and possibly other pieces missing.


If by "strange alloy bracket" you mean the stiffening frame, that's from the factory not a mod. It's basically like a strut tower brace but from below. Audi however calls this the "noise isolation frame" (whatever that means lol). Not all TTs are optioned with it but it seems most do have it. 



benckj said:


> Also pic of wires that were dangling in mid section of car. Thought I could secure but need to get car a bit higher for a look so I don't leave wires resting against exhaust or chafting against heat shield. Need to look at my MK1 but think there was a plastic cover over all of this too.


I'm not sure what that mess is but I'm guessing some spliced O2 sensor wires? Either way yeah, get those secured a bit better--even zipties would be better than dangling like that. 



benckj said:


> Thinking missing rear cover guard is a result of the aftermarket exhaust. Going to source a replacement set all the same. Are the other model covers the same or is the V6 different?


What rear cover guard are you speaking about? If you're talking about the ones on the rear control arms, not all cars came with those--they were only used in some countries and even where they had them they might not necessarily have been equipped. If you're talking about some different rear cover, I'm not really aware of anything on the rear that should be covered, but pls clarify if possible.



benckj said:


> 4/ Bonnet lever not quite right as it coming off.





benckj said:


> I saw those pics before and after studying them I think I do have a C bracket. Problem being was the tabs on handle that didn’t line up correctly. I pre-maturely cut them off before reading the mod post and handle fit much better.
> 
> Had a quick look around and the rev C brackets in RHD are hard to come by. Think I’ll purchase a new C handle and if it doesn’t fit properly I’ll source a bracket from a wrecker.


If you have the correct bracket (i.e. matching handle revision and bracket) then you might be missing the fact that the bottom of the handle needs to go into the track in the trim. If you do not slide it into the trim properly, the pin will not fully seat, regardless of having the matching bracket. This is a mistake I made and was definitely related to how I broke the one the vehicle came with. It wasn't put in properly by whomever replaced it before and I didn't realise it had to go in the track, it just wouldn't "pop in" enough so I thought (at the time) I had the old bracket too but this was quickly dispelled when I realised the old bracket was revised to the C version years before my car was made--I did have the C bracket. Had I known to put the slider in the track on the handle the car came with, I probably could have saved myself from having to buy a replacement handle. While the pin can break due to being plastic, it will break much more readily if it's not fully engaged because only the plastic splines will rotate the mechanism if that's the case. When the handle is fully/properly inserted there's actually a plastic part that engages around the base of the pin, which is where most of the torque is exerted, instead of on the pin itself.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

WOW, thanks for all the valuable info provided. I'm slowly working my way through these issues and getting a good handle on this car. Can't source many parts due to holidays and all the businesses that are shut down. I'll try some of your suggestions and report back. Need to get a little seat time driving it.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Just a couple more thoughts/questions I have;
1/ Are there additional underbody guards besides the 2 under engine & trans? My Mk1 has one in center.
2/ What refrigerant used in AC system? May need a re-charge.
3/ VCS codes. Ran an auto detect with results below. Cam chain data as well. Cleared CAN bus and re-scanned ok. Comments?


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Don’t think there are any other under body panels on the mk2, the chain data looks really good but no block 91? - I imagine your chain stretch is next to nothing. Air con refrigerant should be R134a I believe…..CAN gateway errors are common, AFAIK, might be something of nothing like the HU…..


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You can look up VAG fault codes with a Google search; enter "*Ross Tech xxxxx*" where *xxxxx* is the fault code. If the Ross Tech Wiki has that DTC listed, you'll see a link to one of their pages.









Detecting 3.2L VR6 Chain Stretch with VCDS


Here's how to determine how much chain stretch is present with a VCDS scan. Click here.




www.ttforum.co.uk





When you run a VCDS fault scan, you can save the file as a txt and then post it here for the world to see which is handy if you actually have a fault code. When you post it, at the start of the text, enter {code} and at the end enter {/code}. Note - use [ ] instead of { } and this will create a scrolling window in the text field.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I did scan code 91 and was identical to 90 (14.1% & 0). As my laptop doesn’t have any mail Apps loaded I can’t retrieve the scan txt files easily. This is why I took a phone pic.

I have the Ross Tech manual (hard copy) and link to website. It’s been awhile since I’ve been in there so must refamiliarise myself once again.

Just took TT for a 1/2 hr run up the gorge to get some coffees and a small shop. Wife ended up buying a couple plants and an X-TV cabinet to use as a bedside table. Had a bit of a mission fitting into the back with seats folded down. Dog (Lab/collie cross) wasn’t very happy being cramped along side & back. We made it but it was tight. To top it off the only vent blowing cools air from AC is the drivers window. Strange how the others blow but definite temp diff. Had to keep windows down so dog didn’t get heat stroke as it’s 29C today. Man that V6 howls!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

If all measuring blocks (208,209,90 & 91) for the chain are readings as 0.0kw then looks to me that your chain is perfect. No negative or positive values either way on any blocks. Maybe the chain was changed by the PO? - who knows, but I’d reckon you don’t have to worry about the timing chain …… as far as I know!


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

One of the main reasons for buying car was because of the low kms (67k) and documented service history. PO provided $4500 worth of Dealership docs completed last year. I expected low chain chain wear so nice to see along with no fault codes apart from radio and CAN bus. I’m surprised at some of the faults I’m finding. I didn’t inspect the car myself as my son test drove and didn’t do a PPI because of some timing issues.

I’ll sort out any faults or missing parts easy enough. I have worked on my Mk1 V6 for last 4 yrs so am familiar with drive train & service requirements. Only items I can see not done on this Mk2 are the transfer box and rear diff fluid. Audi states that these are lifelong fluids but I dispute this.

Just snapped the bonnet latch handle after repairing it. Ordered 2 new ones but will take 6 weeks to arrive. Frustrating, but own fault for breaking.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Ran an auto detect with results below. Cam chain data as well. Cleared CAN bus and re-scanned ok. Comments?


Did you run the scan for chain stretch after the engine had come up to temp? IIRC data isn't updated until warm?
It is possible that everything is perfect, but all zeros makes me wonder?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Yes temps were at 90C on gauge. Should have check block code to see actual temp but will need to find this.

Another good find was having cruise control. Not something I use on a regular basis but great to have all the same. Is this common option on mk2’s?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *benckj *- You don't need an email to export the txt file with VCDS. Just save it on your laptop, or straight onto a USB thumb drive and then transfer the file to the PC you use for internet access to this Forum.

After you run the AutoScan, click on [Save]. When the little window pops up, give it a name in the License Plate field, something like "AutoScan 29 Dec 22" and click [OK]. When Windows goes to save it, it should ask where to put it. Here's a *YouTube video* from Ross Tech on how to do it.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I’ve got that ok and saved multiple auto scan txt’s. The only PC I use is my work laptop and due to firewall restrictions it becomes difficult using flash drives. Most of my forum use is on the phone. As this is also a work device I’ll have to have a play to connect directly onto VCS laptop and transfer that way. Not trying to be difficult as I have a few hoops to jump through and I’ve had enough going on with other jobs.

Appreciate the help.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No worries. Just be aware if you run into a problem in the future and this forum can't help, as a VCDS owner you can always turn to the *Ross Tech Forum* for assistance. However, they will require that you post the entire auto scan as a txt file as proof of VCDS ownership.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> Just a couple more thoughts/questions I have;
> 1/ Are there additional underbody guards besides the 2 under engine & trans? My Mk1 has one in center.


Nothing in the centre, no. Needs space for the exhaust + propshaft and not to have too much exhaust heat in that area. The sides on most PQ35s do have plastic covers on the sides running the length to the back wheels but on the TT this is area is entirely flat so it negates the need for any covers or underbody "aero" in those areas.

Also the second, more rearward, engine bay cover is not installed [from factory] on all cars--some have it some don't. Now I think I see what you were talking about before though--I think by rear you meant the second cover? You can add this if you wish, but not really that necessary. The front plastic one is more important and what all vehicles would have.



benckj said:


> 2/ What refrigerant used in AC system? May need a re-charge.


R134a--very standard/generic refrigerant used in most places for the last 20-30 years, up until recently (being replaced in new model cars by R1234yf). Note that a leak test should be performed to ensure no leaks are present in the system--I wouldn't just use a "can of refrigerant" to try to fix it as you may cause more trouble than you bargained for. (Some places you can't buy R134a off the shelf so this may not apply--you can't in Canada for example but easily can in the US.) In any event should be taken to a shop with the proper equipment to evacuate, leak test, and recharge the system. 



benckj said:


> 3/ VCS codes. Ran an auto detect with results below. Cam chain data as well. Cleared CAN bus and re-scanned ok. Comments?


VR6 cam chain info covered by SJP  The CAN gateway error is likely a result of having an aftermarket stereo--it should have an error on the radio address if that's the case. 

As for fitting various purchases in the car--yeah good luck haha  You at least made this trip work but trust me this is not a car for "trips to Ikea", that's for sure. I'm usually quite surprised how much _can't_ fit in the car more than anything, LOL. 

I didn't think that hood lever fix was gonna work eitehr TBH, but figured maybe whatever adhesive or epoxy you used there (I've never seen yellow stuff myself) might work. Not really a reason to buy two but I get that you probably want to "keep a spare". The reality is once you get the handle installed properly as I was saying, so the back part engages the turning mechanism, it's actually not all that likely to break again. It's the difference with turning the mechanism (which is quite tight and requires a lot of force) with only the plastic spline (which is quite weak) when it is not inserted properly, and turning it with the rear "cam" or teeth engaged, which takes almost all the torque off of the spline. B8 A4/5s and Q5s actually use pretty similar-design setup and they aren't all that known for breaking. I mean they do break but not to the degree you really need a new one kept as a spare. The main thing is you install it correctly and seat it all the way. On a side note, the one in the 8P A3 is no looker--they didn't make it integrated with the side trim like on other "better" Audis, so it may _look_ "lower rent" but it's actually miles better, functionally.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for reply, good info once again. Busy sourcing a few parts to complete this car. Will mainly be the wife’s DD but my daughter arriving back from UK with new hubby & baby so they may use as well.

Going to get car back on ramps and crawl around back end to look for any faults, etc. I have some synthetic 75w90 GL5 diff oil if I get excited. Might also drop engine oil & replace although it’s only done 3k kms since last change a year ago. I like to start fresh even though docs show service info. My son just did the 2k road trip on delivery from Big Smoke a week ago.

On the bonnet lever I’m certain the previous handle did not engage with the front cogs but only spline. I’m going to take some time and mod the new C handle to make sure it fits correctly. Bought a spare one as I may have a play taking a mold from to form an alloy casting. It’s something I’ve been meaning to try as my other son enjoys forging steel.

Once service shops open I’ll get AC looked at. I have a 7kw heat pump being installed in my house on 10th Jan so Tech may be able to do car as well.?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Had a good look under back today. Looks like indeed the Haldex filter was changed. Do these suffer the same ground strap fate as Mk1’s? At least there is more room to work on this unit.
Exhaust is rather interesting, 2-1-2 set-up. No idea if this is a good system or not.
Had a look at the rear Magride shocks. No oil leaks but doesn’t look like anything special. Car rides really nice and corners quite well.
Tell me what I’m not seeing please. Everything look normal?


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Looks like body paint was ceramic coated, probably in Japan I suspect. Pic of the TPMS system I use. No factory tyre pressure data on the inside door jamb or fuel flap lid. What’s factory recommendations?
On my Mk1 the tyre pressure were 39/37 ( front/rear).


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The Mk2 Haldex (Gen2 or Gen4 depending on model year) actually has two filters; a little cartridge for the Haldex and a plastic cover on the end of the pump. If you DIY the Haldex fluid and filter change, the vehicle must be horizontal to ensure the fluid level is correct. And be very careful you don't confuse the Haldex drain/filler plugs with the Final Drive filler/drain plugs! More on that topic *here*.

While you're crawling around underneath, take a look at the level sensors and give the ball-socket connections a squirt of lubricant as these are often overlooked. I would avoid WD-40 and use a Silicone and/or PFPE based lubricant since they are generally safe with plastics. I make a point of doing this when it's up in the air for an oil change.

If you want some reference material, we have a pretty good collection of Workshop Manuals and Self Study Programs (SSP) which you can download from the Knowledge Base. The illustration below is right out of the Coupe SSP. Link *here*.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thanks for the pointer. I actually looked at those ball joints on sensors in the rear and thought they were a tad rusty. It’s strange as we don’t get any rust where I live due to high altitude dry climate. Your diagram only shows level sensors up front. I’ll make a point to check & lubricate each year when changing oil & filters.

As far as the Haldex goes this is quite a different beast than my Mk1. According to service docs the oil and primary filter was changed but doubt the pump strainer was cleaned. When I do the oil next I’ll pull out and check/ clean strainer.

It was helpful reviewing the link provided on the rear diff oil. I had read this before as it serves as a great guide for identifying the fill/ drain ports. Would be easy getting confused with Haldex.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you look carefully at the illustration in SSP381, you can see the rear ones too.
Although they didn't specifically point them out, they did list all four by component number; G76-78, G289.
For more info on Self Leveling Suspension and how these work, take a look at *SSP243* starting on page 23.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Perfectly clear now, thanks for diagram. I'm learning a lot about this car from helpful people such as yourself.
Many thanks, once again.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> On the bonnet lever I’m certain the previous handle did not engage with the front cogs but only spline. I’m going to take some time and mod the new C handle to make sure it fits correctly. Bought a spare one as I may have a play taking a mold from to form an alloy casting. It’s something I’ve been meaning to try as my other son enjoys forging steel.


You shouldn't have to mod anything provided you have the correct bracket/receiver. Making a metal one would be a great idea of course...



benckj said:


> Once service shops open I’ll get AC looked at. I have a 7kw heat pump being installed in my house on 10th Jan so Tech may be able to do car as well.?


Home HVAC techs working on car A/C systems is not at all something you'd see here--these are completely different industries here. Maybe in your part of the world, not sure. Can't hurt to ask though.



benckj said:


> Had a good look under back today. Looks like indeed the Haldex filter was changed. Do these suffer the same ground strap fate as Mk1’s? At least there is more room to work on this unit.


Never heard anything about a ground strap issue, so I'd have to say no.




benckj said:


> Exhaust is rather interesting, 2-1-2 set-up. No idea if this is a good system or not.


That's how it is from factory as well. You've basically got a catback on there so everything forward of the main clamp is factory I think. The muffler (backbox) is a transverse unit so it's necessary to combine the exhaust and then have two muffler outlets like that. I've never seen someone do two separate, longitudinal, mufflers on this car though it's surely possible with custom work. Doesn't really matter though, car sounds great to you, so leave it as is 



benckj said:


> Had a look at the rear Magride shocks. No oil leaks but doesn’t look like anything special. Car rides really nice and corners quite well.
> Tell me what I’m not seeing please. Everything look normal?


Things look ok. If the car rides and handles well, I'd say your suspension is all good. 

Nice you've got a ceramic coat on there though not sure how long ago that would have been and what has been done to the paint since then. Looks good in the pics though. If the water is beading real good on it, it's more than likely the ceramic coat is still good. Ceramic coating can last a long time but note it does require some care and maintenance to stay good--still a lot less maintenence than no CC, but there are some Dos and Don'ts... E.g... Don't buff (compound/polish) the paint as this will remove the ceramic coating (you can't really tell if that was ever done before you owned it but perhaps the PO can advise what was/wasn't done since the car was imported, not sure). Also do not claybar the car as this will only scratch the ceramic coating. Every year or so you'll want to refresh the coating with a chemical decon (like IronX, etc.), deep clean hand wash, and top with an SiO2 spray sealant. For other tips you can check out various detailing forums or the website of pretty much any CC maker.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Our HAVAC Techs generally do cars as well. I use to race with the owner of the shop so I’m sure he would have any necessary car equipment.

The exhaust pipes look larger than my Mk1 from down pipe back. I’d have to throw a caliper on to verify. Exhaust sounds exceptional so will leave alone.

Paintwork is in very good shape. I had to remove a couple of rubber marks on guards and there is a small scrape on lower sill I can’t get completely out. On the downside I suspect there has been accident damage as I found a vial of touch up paint and cards from panel beater in glove box. Have inspected every panel and gaps without detection of a fault. What I did find was a repaired diaphragm bracket on intake plenum and a bent dip tube bracket. Maybe it had a minor impact on front bumper which could explain the poor AC performance.??
CSI investigation continues.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Partial success. Tried to replace rear diff fluid and couldn’t get fill port loose. Hit it with some penetrating oil then tried again and it started to strip. Drain port came loose but I tightened it back up. Looking at options now to crack loose. Best I get couple new ports with crush washers or maybe a whole aftermarket kit. Are front transfer box/ diff the same size?

Gave the rear level sensors a good spray with silicone oil.
Before pic below.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Partial success. Tried to replace rear diff fluid and couldn’t get fill port loose. Hit it with some penetrating oil then tried again and it started to strip.


Penetrating oil, heat and patience.

Apply penetrating oil (not WD40) and wait several hours. If the bolt / screw / filler cap won't budge apply heat directly to the hardware using a small butane torch. Rinse and repeat until things move.

If you feel like things are starting to strip out, the application of some grinding compound will help keep your screwdriver / Allen key / socket from slipping. (Grinding compound comes in the form of a paste that can be found at most auto parts stores). The grit in the paste will help your tools bite without slipping. Easy to wipe off / clean up when you're done.

The fill / drain ports should all be the same (with the exception of the Haldex drain)

Edit: Found this:


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Good idea on the grinding paste. I thought about heat but will locate my butane torch first. Its 30C outside today and stinking hot so would rather not use heat if I can avoid! I can get a cold chisel onto the side of port to either rotate or jar loose. If I pull a trans side bolt I could fit a vice grip or pipe wrench directly onto. Either way I'll need a new port so best get prepared.

For giggles I located the Haldex fill port but can't seem to see the drain. I'll look up maint link again as I'm either uninformed or half blind.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> I can get a cold chisel onto the side of port to either rotate or jar loose. If I pull a trans side bolt I could fit a vice grip or pipe wrench directly onto. Either way I'll need a new port so best get prepared.


I've used a cold chisel as a last resort but only when everything else has failed. Hope it doesn't come to that



> For giggles I located the Haldex fill port but can't seem to see the drain. I'll look up maint link again as I'm either uninformed or half blind.











Note: drain plug faces toward the front and looks like a bolt. Easy to overlook


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Well this little exercise went from bad to worse. Tried heat- penetrating oil- heat, oil more heat more oil and then Torx bit with grit inserted and managed to strip the drain bolt. Used a long nose vice grip and another type of star bit without success. Put the cold chisel onto after more heat and thought I was making progress until it cut into bolt. Looking at trying an EasyOut to see if it will bite into hole. Think I may have a set of these at work.
Not a worry all the same as I’m fine running car without changing diff oil. Will get it sorted one way or another. Just have to gather a few supplies I wasn’t counting on. Dealership doesn't open until late this week due to holidays.

On the lighter side I found the Haldex drain. Very easy to miss as it doesn’t look like the others'. Service including the oil & filter completed about 7k ago so not due for another 13k. This will be much easier than my Mk1 which does not have a fill port and filter is in a very awkward location.

I really enjoyed watching the video on Audi Quattro systems, how they work, different generations and pros/cons. This is located in the knowledge base.

Keep the comments flowing.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Success, all sorted. Let penetrating oil sit overnight, applied some heat in morning and hammered square head bit into plug hole. Backed it right off with hardly any effort. 

Have sent Audi an email asking to see if they have drain plugs in stock. My wife and I plan to do a trip through to Queenstown dealership so can pick up then. Have re-installed the old plug and left square head jammed in place.

Diff fluid looked pretty clean as compared to my Mk1 oil they I changed at 60k.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Success, all sorted. Let penetrating oil sit overnight, applied some heat in morning and hammered square head bit into plug hole. Backed it right off with hardly any effort.



That's my 'stuck bolt' mantra: Penetrating oil, heat and patience (rinse and repeat as many times as necessary).


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*"Are front transfer box/ diff the same size?"* - Not sure, but I've not heard of anyone changing the fluid in the Bevel Box although I'm sure there's no harm in doing it. Looking through WSM *Transmission, Automatic 6-speed - A005TT01520*, there's a note that an oil change for the Bevel Box is not normally required. Evidently the 6-speed DSG and Bevel Box do not share the same fluid. When I asked my Audi Service Manager (who is a pretty straight, up front guy) he confirmed the Bevel Box fluid is not normally replaced as part of the DSG fluid/filter service.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

When I did my Mk1 service at 60k kms I dropped the rear diff oil and was very surprised how bad it was. Figured the front transfer (bevel) box would be just as bad, being the primary drive. And it was.

Not so sure I’ll change on my Mk2 given how clean the rear diff looks. It’s not really an expensive exercise just time consuming due to the awkward places Audi places the fill ports. Might have a good look next engine oil change and see if access is difficult. And I can confirm unlike the manual model it’s not the same fluid as DSG. From my research although not directly specified the Bevel box fluid should be; 75W90 Full Synthetic GL5 rated. This is same as I used in rear diff above.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Since you like to change your own oil, you might consider one of these *Stahlbus* drain valves for the oil sump. These really make oil changes so much easier and cleaner. You'll never have to remove the drain plug again or end up with oil all over your hands in the attempt. Just plug in the drain tube, oil goes right were you want it rather than splashing all over the place. Whether on a lift or just on ramps, the oil goes where you want it. You can also install one in the 3.2 VR6 oil filter housing, but it may require an aftermarket housing like this one from *ESC Tuning* to do it.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I’ve seen those drain ports before and are an excellent idea for most, I've never been a fan. As I only change engine oil once a year I like to do the old fashion way which gives me opportunity to inspect the components as the job progresses. Easy enough to drive car onto ramps, remove skid plates and then drain plug directed into large wash bucket. Same goes for oil filter whether a cartridge or spin on. Yes, oil does escape but using a couple of rags easy enough to clean up. I live on a large lifestyle block of land with no garage and work is done outside in the dirt.

Give me a couple years and I may change my mind as the body ages and I look for easier methods. Shipping can a deterrent living on the other side of the world especially for specialty items often doubling+ the price you would pay.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Holiday period is over so gave local Audi dealership a call to see if they had a rear Diff port in stock along with price. They didn't have one in stock and the price was an astonishing $51NZD !
I said thank-you very much, I'll adapt a M10 brass plug to fit all the same. Incredible, really as figured part would probably cost less than 1Euro in UK.

Looking at doing the front Diff-Bevel box this weekend after I see if my brass plug with alloy washer works ok.


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