# S-Tronic Knob Repair & Upgrade



## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I'd really like to update the S-Tronic shift knob in my early model car to the later type.
I've read all the guides - the heat and twist method, the cut and tap method... and although I'm tempted to have a go myself I'm worried about messing it up.

Has anyone managed to talk a garage into doing it for them? If so, how much did they charge?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Personally, I would go with a Black Forrest shifter. You don't have to heat-and-twist the shifter rod or cut anything off. It's pretty much a one-to-one swap. There's even a How To in here somewhere if you run a search for it -

Black Forest Industries - European Automotive Parts and Performance

*Black Forest Industries DSG Heavyweight Shift Knob Installed*


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks Swiss but I much prefer the OEM updated one.

The BFI shifter does look easy to fit but I'm really put off by the choice of logos available (I think they call them "coins").
The only ones they offer are a branded one or a hideous design with two huge arrows.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *andy mac* - Yeah, I know what you mean. As much as I like it, I've reconsidered the BF shifter for that very same reason. Unfortunately, because of copyright, they can't use the Audi logo. However it might be possible to find a metal or laser engraving shop that can make one for you. All you need is the artwork and the dimensions of the 'coin'.

Random Google search came up with these guys offering custom laser engraving -

https://www.bespokelaseruk.co.uk/

Pretty much anything can be laser marked anyway you want it -


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

That's a good idea, hadn't thought of that one.

As long as I could find someone who didn't mind doing a "one-off" design.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looks like *JohnnyFarmer* has done this conversion. I agree, this looks 100% better than the BF shifter knob. If you live close enough, he might be able to help...

*Changing Auto Gear Seletor*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1822322

"_Take it slowly - took me 1/2 h to twist 90 degrees - took the extra precaution of gently heating the stem once in place without any twist so that it was not brittle_."


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Looks like *JohnnyFarmer* has done this conversion. I agree, this looks 100% better than the BF shifter knob. If you live close enough, he might be able to help...


Ah he lives too far away, thanks for the suggestion though


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I've taken the plunge and bought a new-style shifter knob.

Now I just need to pluck up the courage to give it a go.
I'm a bit dubious about the heat and twist method... I'm sure it's worked for many people but I'm worried about snapping it and the effects of heat on the plastic - would it weaken it?

The drill and tap method looks more involved but safer. I might even show the guide to my friendly local mechanic to see if he fancies having a go.

One more question - the shifter I've bought has the "*TTS*" badge and mine isn't a TTS. Does anyone know if the little badge things are available anywhere? If not I can live with it saying TTS but thought I'd ask.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Hi Andy - here is the great vid I followed:






I can't speak about the cut/drill/tap/screw method - there seemed to be something more frightening about cutting the plastic shaft. 
As I said - half an hour slow turning - and a further application of the heat gun at the end with no movement to reduce any potential micro-fractures in the plastic. 
Its been in 2.5 years now - I do treat the button with respect and 'so far so good'


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

From experience, cut it.

I tried to heat and twist and made a right hash of it. Ended up cutting it, drilling and inserting a pin. Held solid for a few years now.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks guys... I think cutting and drilling might be the way to go for me.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I have the facelift knob and am going with the cut method

I have the parts but not got around to it yet


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I want the parts but waiting to gain the bottle before ordering.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

*A WORD OF WARNING*

If anyone is going to attempt this, and if by any chance you get the button stuck in the "in position", be very VERY careful if you try any of the button reset guides found on Youtube etc.

One of the guides shows someone inserting a screwdriver beneath the button/trigger.. and that's the method I attempted.

*You should ignore that guide* (unless you're a watchmaker/brain surgeon with delicate tools and steady hands) and look for videos that show releasing the button by going in through the bottom section with a bit of looped wire (or better still with the proper tool shown on the next pages)

I managed to mangle one of the two tiny springs (ridiculously fragile!) and stretch the other.
I really can't see any way it could be repaired 

The springs really are very thin and delicate, so be extra, extra careful if you get the button stuck in.

It's my own fault, I was too ham-fisted... and I think this is fate's way of telling me I shouldn't attempt this modification myself, lord knows what I could do to that thin piece of plastic rod.

I see a BFI knob in my near future....


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *andy mac* - Aww...come on now, don't walk away from a perfectly good challenge!! It looks like writing a post on "How To - Repair & Replace Shifter Button Springs" is in your future. You already know more about the shifter button/springs than anyone else in the forum.

The Forum needs a knob expert, thanks for volunteering. 

Is this is the video you've referenced -

*Repair Audi RS Gerarknob*





Looking through some of the other Audi Forums,
"_The top section hides a torx screw under the model marker [coin] on the top, so just peel that off to reveal it_." Sounds like that's the trick to being able to disassemble and repair your knob. Springs might be tricky to find, but there's zillions of them in good hardware shops and Amazon.










If you decide to go with cutting rather than heat-and-twist, you can use M2 threaded rods found in RC model hobby shops. They come in brass or SST.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Yeah you're right Swiss, I'll probably have a go, I wasn't in the best frame of mind when I posted that yesterday having just created an Audi paperweight out of a perfectly good shifter 

...and yes, that's the video I used as a guide.

I've got nothing to lose now by tearing it apart if I can find out how.
I think I'll be leaving any cutting and drilling to my mechanic friend.

The warning still stands though, be extra careful around those springs.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@* andy mac* - That's the spirit!


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I just need to try and find a guide now - I spotted the one you got that picture from but there's no explanation.
I'll keep looking and if I have no luck I'll just (gently) start pulling on things.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Some more potentially useful information for anyone attempting this... there's a special tool for releasing "popped in" buttons: audi release tool T40203

https://audi.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDet ... d=17330167
(it looks like only dealers can order from that link though)

Also available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Audi-TTS-S3 ... 3993299238
£80 from the U.S. though. Ouch. That's a lot for a bit of steel bar with a handle.
.... you could even copy and make your own. Alternatively, a crochet hook might work.

Close up of the hook end:









There's also a useful guide in the workshop manual, the URL didn't work properly so I grabbed all the images:


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Good luck Andy - I had to 'reset' my push button a right PITA - .... Now if the 'coin' can be taken out as per SJP's picture - do you not feel a little rubbing down and insertion of bespoke V6 artwork  ?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

JohnnyFarmer said:


> Good luck Andy - I had to 'reset' my push button a right PITA - .... Now if the 'coin' can be taken out as per SJP's picture - do you not feel a little rubbing down and insertion of bespoke V6 artwork  ?


Thanks Johnny.
Hmm, a custom button would be interesting!


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Looking through some of the other Audi Forums,
> "_The top section hides a torx screw under the model marker [coin] on the top, so just peel that off to reveal it_." Sounds like that's the trick to being able to disassemble and repair your knob.


No sign of any kind of screw under the coin unfortunately 










It looks like there are 4 little plastic tabs that need to be levered aside... the tricky part is that all 4 need to be levered at the same time. I assume this isn't a problem during assembly as they'd just click into place. Pretty sure they were never meant to be dismantled 
I'll carry on but open to suggestions.

Another picture of where I am at the moment...


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well that is a damn good start! Nice job!

For those four clips, perhaps you can cut some small shims from an old credit card or other thin plastic stock (hotel "key") to release them simultaneously.

As to the coin, now you have the OEM removed, you might drop and email on some local laser or engraving shop and see what they can come up with. Lots of guys offering 3D printed bits too that might work.

Another thought is checking out Aliexpress, they seem to have all sorts of Audi knock-off shifters. You might be able to order a TT coin from there.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

You read my mind Swiss!

I sacrificed my Costa Coffee points to make some plastic strips to try to lever the tabs apart.
(It worked but the top still won't pull off).










Here's the assembly with the trigger cover removed (just prised it off carefully).










Here's one of the mangled springs.










...and the culprit that caused all this trouble, the catch that engages with the nylon shift rod.










I'm stumped now as to how to get the rest of it apart, but I probably don't need to. It looks like I might be able to reattach the springs (once I've found some online) without dismantling any more than I already have.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Trying to find a solution for your problem, no luck yet, but I did manage to find this.

But for anyone who's attempted and failed at the heat-and-twist method and ended up with a broken rod, there are parts available to savage the plastic shifter release rod. The tap and 2mm threaded rod are available from any good RC hobby shop.

*DSG S-Tronic Shift Rod*
https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthrea ... 057879a2ae


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks Swiss, just to add to that... there's another page that has printed plastic drilling jigs for the shifter rod that help you drill and tap precisely: https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/t ... q=audi+dsg










Rather interestingly, if anyone has a 3D printer, the plans (or whatever the files are called) are available to download for free.
There's also a solid gold top! only $692.20


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Found these pictures of the springs being replaced on an Audi S5 website. But I'm not convinced this is the best way to do it as there's nothing to keep them from slipping off as shown in the second photo -


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

One of the problems with 3D printing is the plastic used for home 3D printers is often "low temperature" PLA or ABS filament. These cheap hobby printers often can't handle higher temperature materials like Nylon or Delrin (which would be the right material for these replacement rods) because of the limitations of the print head and print bed temperatures.

I've fooled around with some 3D bits with my colleagues' 3D printer using PLA and they are just too brittle for this application. The layers can't handle the tensile stress and tend to snap quite easily. This has to do with the way the layers are put down during the "printing" process - if the layer below the new "hot" layer is too cold, the two layers don't bond together very well. Multiply this over dozens of layers, and the result is a part just waiting to snap when stressed. It may make for a nice static chess piece, but not a car part!

The best way to go (IMHO) is to find someone that can machine one out of Nylon or better yet, Delrin rod, as shown below.

https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthrea ... ting/page2

[smiley=stop.gif]
*NOTICE - DIMENSIONS SHOWN ARE FOR REFERENCE ONLY! VERIFY YOUR OWN BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING!*


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *andy mac* - Can you find any sort of manufacturer's information inside the shifter boot or anywhere molded into the parts? Something like this label (...this isn't a TT boot).
> 
> I might be able to track down the company that makes them like I did with the convertible top company Webasto.


I didn't get as far as removing the old shifter (and boot) yet, I was just preparing the new knob first (by resetting the button) before attempting anything else.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

If printed plastic is too brittle, there's a metal "rod topper" available from that same guy, might be a better option, though obviously a bit harder to tap.










Meanwhile back in my workshop (AKA my kitchen)...










...and now I've discovered that you can't attach the springs with it fully dismantled, as one end of the spring hooks over a lip on the metal section, while the other hooks over a small bar (shown top left on the image above) on the plastic trigger assembly.

I've contacted a spring company to ask if they can match my springs if I send them one of my damaged ones.
I looked on their site but there's a bewildering range of tension springs.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Hey, so far so good! You got it apart without any major damage.

Did your coffee-can shims help?

Curious how it's all held together lacking any screws. So I'm guessing everything is snap-fit together?

Any sort of ID or mold marks anywhere??

Can you create another piece part layout photo or two so we can see the relative orientation of what you have disassembled so far.

While this may seem like a chore at the moment, from what I have found on the internet, there are a lot of people who are looking for exactly what you're doing here. This swap is a very popular mod, and it seems like dozens of people on VW and Audi forums have damaged the button or springs. There's going to be a lot of people thanking you sooner than later once you have this sorted with new springs and have it all put back together.

Not to mention your own satisfaction having done it.  Hang in there!

EDIT - Back to the end of the Release Rod, I don't see that you'd need a replacement piece. Just pull the rod up as far as it will go, and then cut off the end of the rod far enough up to give yourself enough material that you can drill/tap a hole for the M2 threaded rod in both ends. Then screw it back together with the end rotated 90° from it's original position and everything should work fine.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I don't mind taking more pictures, it's been an interesting exercise!

The coffee card shims worked a treat. I heated them and curved one edge to match the radius of the section with the little tabs.... and yep, everything seems to be a tight push-fit.

I had to be quite forceful in pulling the metal casting away from the leather covered housing. 
With the shims in place I got a jewellers screwdriver in and got it started, then just grabbed it firmly and pulled.

More pics incoming....










Last one for now showing all the parts loosely fitted together to show what goes where. Mostly obvious but you never know.










*Please note* I only discovered on final assembly that the black collar is fitted the wrong way round on those pictures - the thin section goes to the top where it traps the leather gaiter/boot against the knob. The thicker knurled bit goes to the bottom and is hidden inside the gaiter.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Ah very nice!

Those tension springs look pretty common to be honest, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a couple of replacements. Be sure to buy a few extra as I suspect putting them back in will be the real learning curve for this project. That and finding, or making, the right tool to do it.

Over all, the disassembly of the major components seems pretty straight forward with the aid of your shims. But it will be interesting to see exactly how put it all back together, especially getting those springs back in again.

Looking back at your pictures, just trying to understand where the spring end-points connect inside the knob housing and how the button moves the shifter release rod up and down...?? Is there some sort of cam inside?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Yep the springs are going to be tricky, at one end they clip onto the bar on the trigger quite securely, but the other hooked end of the spring appears to just clip onto a ledge with no location holes.

I could be wrong (I suspect I am) but can't see anything else they could hook onto. 
This is where I _think _the hooked spring ends go...










Hard to explain but I'll take more pics once I get round to reassembly (he said confidently)... 
In the meantime this video clearly shows the springs *but I really don't recommend this method*, 
it's what caused all this in the first place: 




Here's a close up taken from one section of that video:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I found this Italian YouTube which might help. This is basically the same concept as the previous pictures, but in this case he's drilled a couple of small holes on the recessed part at the bottom of the Top Bezel. He's hooked the springs onto the Release Button first, then used string to pull the springs through and hook them into the holes. Then the string gets removed. At least with this method, there's no way the springs will come off.

Since you already have the Top Bezel removed from the knob, it should be much easier to drill the two holes than trying to drill them with the Top Bezel in place.

He then used a string on the end of each spring, and with the other end connected to the Release Button, pulled the end of the spring up and through the inside of the knob and positioned it into the little hole. Once the end of the spring is anchored in the hole, he just removed the string. Then he repeated the process for the other spring and then put everything back together. The Shaft Collar fits over the anchor holes in the Top Bezel and hides everything. Clever.

Here's the video -

*Stronic Automatic Shift Knob Trigger A4 B8*





Just my two cents - a 0.5mm drill bit should suffice to make the two holes for the spring anchor points (D2). A Dremel tool will make quick work of it. It looks like the tension springs he used have a 0.3mm wire diameter with a 3mm coil diameter. You could also put a caliper on your own springs to verify the wire and coil diameters and compress one of the less damaged springs back into shape to estimate the correct length. If you can only find springs with round ends, you can cut a little off to get the 'hook' shape you need.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Who knew a gear knob could have so many components and be so complicated!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *MT-V6 *- Yeah, that's pretty cool actually. I had no idea!  But given the number of components in this assembly, it makes a bit more sense why these are so expensive. All the tool and die work that goes into the zinc and plastic injection molded parts, and then the assembly time to put them all together. I'm just guessing, but at a glance, there must be nearly 20-individual parts that make up this shifter knob assembly.

I'm guessing the T-shaped piece (Engagement Actuator for lack of a better word) sits against the white bearing surface on the Release Button. When installed onto the Shifter Assembly and the Release Button is pressed, it pops into the elongated hole in the Shift Release Rod. Then, when you press the Release Button, this moves the Engagement Actuator which lifts up the Shift Release Rod.

If the Release Button is pressed in accidentally, the Engagement Actuator pops out and prevents the knob from being installed since it would hit to top of the Shift Release Rod. Therefore the tool is used to pull the Engagement Actuator back into the 'installation' position. Which would make sense, since in operation, it would have to flip out so it engages into the hole in the Shift Release Rod.

These images came from the Workshop Manual which you can download from the Knowledge Base -

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
*6.2 Transmission,6-speed manual gearbox 02S, front-wheel drive (A005TT02520)*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I found this Italian YouTube which might help.
> 
> It looks like he drilled a couple of small holes on the recessed part at the bottom of the Top Bezel. Since you already have that removed from the knob, it should be easy enough to do.
> 
> ...


That's really useful Swiss!
Many thanks for that... could make things a whole load easier.

I haven't quite worked out what's going on with the bits of string but I've just got up and need more coffee... I'll watch it again (and again) later.

It's a shame he isn't talking on the video.

From what I can make out the T shaped lever sits in the hole on the plastic rod all the time, and just raises or lowers the rod. That's what makes it slightly tricky to fit, you have to partially force the lever past the top of the rod.
Again, I could be wrong here.

I'll try to do a sketch later as it's almost impossible to photograph.

I managed to find the springs on Amazon UK though 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-E ... diy&sr=1-1


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Unfortunately, instead of showing us where to drill the holes and how to use the string to install the springs, he's showing what he's already done which is why the strings don't really make any sense at first. I had to watch it twice myself to figure it out. It would have been nice had he narrated what he was doing, at least you could have turned on the English subtitles.

In this image, he's used masking tape to protect the shifter and mark where he's drilled the two holes in the Top Bezel which will be used to secure the end of the springs. But since you already have the Top Bezel removed, it will be much easier for you do drill. After the holes are drilled, put the Top Bezel back into the Knob so you can anchor the springs into these holes.

Be sure the holes you drill Top Bezel recess for D2 are the same distance apart as they are in the Release Button (D1) so the springs remain parallel.

















General idea of using the string to pull the end of the spring in order to get it into the hole.









Although he doesn't show it (because they're already in place) he's used the strings to pull the ends of springs up and into the holes he drilled in the Top Bezel. That's why you see him cut the strings and remove them at the end.

Unfortunately, he doesn't show how this is done which is really the key part of the spring replacement. :x

In this image, you can see where the ends of the springs are now securely anchored into the holes he drilled.

View attachment 2

It looks like the trick is to connect BOTH springs to the Release Button, put a string on the other end of each spring, then feed the strings up behind the Bezel. Press the Release Button just enough to get it into it's correct position, while pulling the strings through to keep tension on them. Then you pull each spring until the end fit into the holes. Once anchored, you can remove the string.

As you mentioned earlier, it wasn't clear where the other end of the spring connected inside the knob. So it looks like this guy solved that problem by drilling the two holes into the recess at the bottom of the Top Bezel, and then used the string to get the ends of the springs into those holes. With this method those springs will never come loose - ever!

In this image he's showing how to reset the Engagement Actuator by going though the opening at the Release Button, rather than up the shaft as you would with the VAG Tool described in the Workshop Manual.









Once your coffee kicks in, it will make sense.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

(Thanks for the cup of coffee!)

Yep, it's all making sense now, I've added some tiny drill bits to my ever-growing shopping list.
I've got a centre punch to mark the holes, then I know someone who has a Dremel to drill the holes - it does seem like a good idea to locate the springs more securely... why Audi couldn't have designed it like that in the first place is a mystery.

The whole mechanism seems designed to be as awkward as possible.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yeah, you know the Audi engineering slogan - "Don't make it easy when you can make it difficult." :roll:

But hey, you're definitely well on your way to solving this!

Question - is the silver colored Top Bezel plastic or metal?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

The silver top is metal and pretty heavy, some sort of cast alloy perhaps. Seems pretty strong anyway.

Here's a close up of the only components that have part numbers on them, just in case it's of use to anyone.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Interesting! 

The Top Bezel is marked with ZP5 and the Button Cover is ZP0410 which means they're a zinc alloy pressure casting or injection molded. This material is also known as "Alloy 5" which is the most widely used zinc alloy in Europe. If you're curious, look up Zamak in Wikipedia.

The black plastic part is marked with >PA6GF30< which indicates this is a 30% glass fibre (GF) reinforced polyamide (PA6). There's a huge variety of plastics used by VAG (and every other auto maker) from plain old ABS to the more durable GF components like the Hood Release Lever as the GF give the plastic better strength. This type of identification is common on almost every single modern automotive plastic part so recyclers know how to separate the plastics.

The round clock looking feature in the center of the Top Bezel and on the rim of the black plastic part are mold or casting batch tags which identify when the parts were produced. Depending on the size of the part, some use a clock, others use a type of grid.

The numbers H329, H330, 1013182 and 1013190 are probably the manufactures part numbers or drawing numbers. The fact the numbers are very close to each other sequentially would typically indicate they're used in a common assembly.

Unfortunately, there's no manufacture's marks so it's going to be very difficult to figure out who made them. Unlike some of the larger parts where the manufacturer's label is actually stuck to the part;. e.g. trunk side panels, convertible top assembly, etc.

But very cool! Thanks for posting. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

By the way, you mentioned a center punch earlier. Now that we know it's a zinc casting, I would not recommend the use a center punch. A zinc casting won't take the abuse a steel, aluminum or brass part would tolerate.

Instead, it might be better to use a small Engraving Bit (Dremel 105 or 106) to make the starter points where you want to drill. Just grind into the surface enough to make a small mark so the drill bit won't wander.

If your spring wire is 0.3mm, you should be able to get away with a 0.5mm hole. Start small, see if the spring will pass through and hook into the hole. If not, go up a size as needed. You might want to use a piece of thin scrap material first before drilling the Top Bezel so you can get the hang of the bit and drill and test the best size hole for the springs you end up buying.

As noted previously, the distance between the holes in the Top Bezel should be the same as the distance between the holes in the Release Button so the springs remain parallel to each other.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

After seeing all these small components i'd still rather work with all the nuts and bolts and remove the whole assemble and switch it for the proper one.

Still - great work guys!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

IPG3.6 said:


> ...i'd still rather work with all the nuts and bolts and remove the whole assemble and switch it for the proper one.


Which one would that be? Is there a third option?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> By the way, you mentioned a center punch earlier. Now that we know it's a zinc casting, I would not recommend the use a center punch. A zinc casting won't take the abuse a steel, aluminum or brass part would tolerate.


That's a very good point, if it is a casting - it appears to be cast rather than pressed.



IPG3.6 said:


> After seeing all these small components i'd still rather work with all the nuts and bolts and remove the whole assemble and switch it for the proper one.
> 
> Still - great work guys!


I've thought about doing it the proper way, which would ideally just mean replacing the nylon rod with a later model.

I've read in various places that you can't buy the rod and that Audi insist that the whole shifter mechanism is one part (even though it's obviously made from dozens of smaller parts). 
If anyone has any contacts at Audi, it'd be interesting to know for sure.










They pop up on ebay occasionally, but even so it's a lot of work to replace it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/2199471187

It's rapidly reaching the stage now where I need to buy so many bits and bobs to repair the knob, it'd almost be cheaper to just buy another... but it's become an interesting challenge.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

According to the workshop manual, and other forums I've browsed on this topic, the plastic Shifter Rod is not an Audi spare part, it's part of the shifter mechanism assembly.

From the Audi TT 2007 7-speed dual clutch gearbox 0BH (S tronic) Workshop Manual (D3E8031CB49) -

*"Caution - If component parts of the shift unit are damaged, the shift unit has to be renewed as a complete unit."*


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Makes you wonder why Audi would say that, it's clear from the pictures that it's made up of several parts.

Greed I guess - they'd rather sell you a £500 unit than a cheap plastic rod.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would imagine if you can get the Shifter Assembly out of the vehicle, it could be disassembled and the Shfter Rod repaired or replaced. But as I understand it, the entire assembly has to be removed from under the car, not out from the cockpit so it would be a rather daunting task IHMO.

I suspect it's not someone too many people have attempted as I don't think I've seen one taken apart. But like this Shifter Knob project, it would be interesting to see what all is in there!

You go first! :lol:


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You go first! :lol:


Well beyond my capabilities! [smiley=freak.gif]


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ian has, see his progress thread. But, the exhaust and propshaft are in the way...


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Has he actually opened up the shifter box or just removed it? Wouldn't be surprised by either.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

As requested by Swiss, here's a rough sketch showing how it all works.
Some of the proportions are probably a bit off but hopefully it helps.

I've simplified it slightly - there's a "step" in the tube part of the knob that corresponds with the outer tube that the plastic rod slides up and down in on the real thing.

I'm pretty sure that the metal lever/cam is in the slot all the time (up or down) which is why the knob has to be pushed on quite forcefully when reinstalling - the tip of the lever has to push its way past the top "lip" of the slot in the plastic rod.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That's excellent!! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Looking at the internal geometry, there's what looks like a "clip" feature in the plastic (outlined in red). Can you tell if this is what holds the Engagement Actuator in place prior installation?

I'm thinking if the Release Button is pushed in before the knob is installed, the Actuator pops out of this clip. Which is why you have to use the VAG tool to pull back down and "clip" it back into place.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I'm not sure what that is, I'll have a closer look sometime today.

In other news I discovered that a bit of copper wire with a loop at the end does just as good a job as Audi's £80 tool for resetting the lever/trigger.

If only I'd discovered that last week!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You'll have to add some new pictures of your new tool and show it in action. 

Very interested how this "clip" functions (if that's what it is)...


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

You were right about the clip, it holds the lever in place while fitting.
(You can also see the white nylon roller that presses against the lever/actuator at the top)



















Here's the wire tool I made - note the slight tilt at the end (and the direction of the tilt) - this is to catch onto the lever.
Also note the angle of the tilt in relation to the knob.










....and here it is in action...










This is the lever after pulling it down into the clip (you'll hear a definite "click" as the lever locks into the clip shown above). You can see that a) the trigger/button has popped out, and b) there's plenty of clearance for fitting it over the nylon rod when locked in position.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks for confirming my clip theory! 

That wire is a clever trick, but I think your initial thought about a crochet hook would actually be a better idea.Trying to loop the end of the wire around the Actuator looks easy enough with the knob disassembled, but with it all together, might prove a bit of a challenge.

IMHO the crochet hook is much closer in form to the VAG tool, and obviously a lot cheaper! But hey, whatever works!! 

With it all still apart, have you managed to figure out the original spring anchor points? Really curious where the springs went and how they were secured. There must be some sort of ledge or lip they hooked onto.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Unfortunately I can't be certain what the springs anchored onto as they started pinging all over the place during my first clumsy attempt. I think they just hooked onto this little ledge on the casting. I could be wrong but I can't see anywhere else they could go.
The fact that they fell out so easily while dismantling also suggests that they were just hooked onto that section.










Here's the actuator/lever/arm removed from the shell just to give a better idea of how everything looks:










...and here's what's left after pretty much everything else has been removed:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Very nice! This continues to shed more light about the inner workings and how to solve any problems people might run into.

Jedi Master of Shifter Knob you are!


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Jedi Master of Shifter Knob you are!


I shall wear that title with pride! 8)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

In the immortal words of Yoda himiself - *"Do. Or do not. There is no try."* :mrgreen:









Just a quick look through AliExpress, it seems they're selling the plastic shift rod. Not sure if the dimensions match, but odds are good it's the same geometry for most Audi Shifter boxes. This way if you totally destroy the shift rod, you can order a new one to work with for drilling and threading a new end.


























https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000044 ... 5614%23567


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> View attachment 3
> 
> Just a quick look through AliExpress, it seems they're selling the plastic shift rod. Not sure if the dimensions match, but odds are good it's the same geometry for most Audi Shifter boxes. This way if you totally destroy the shift rod, you can order a new one to work with for drilling and threading a new end.
> 
> ...


That's really useful to know, I might even buy a couple to practise my drilling and tapping skills on before I start on the one in my car.
Actually I'd only need one, I could cut and join it three or four times


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

In order to ensure the little threaded rod is centered in the plastic Shifter Rod after it's been cut off, you can make a small drill fixture like this (not my idea, but a good one).

The Fixture Tube should be snug enough that it slides over the Shifter Shaft, and long enough that it doesn't wobble. The center piece (yellow) can be plastic or wood, and has a pre-drilled and centered hole to maintain the position of the drill bit.

To drill the end you cut off, wrap it with electrical tape until it fits snug inside the tube and then drill it the same way.

After both holes are drilled, follow up with a tap, screw in the little threaded rod, screw on the top of the plastic Shifter Rod, verify the correct orientation for the new knob and put it into service.

*Out with the old, and in with the new! - S-Tronic Gear Knob*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9#p9285049


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks again Swiss, I thought about making a simple drilling jig like the one you posted and I think it'll work as long as there's very little play between the rod and the lower metal part it slides up and down in.
If it's a fairly loose fit there's a chance it could go off centre.

I'm probably worrying about this a lot more than I should but it's one of those jobs that has to be perfect first time, there's no second chance to get it right.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If the plastic rod moves too much, you can shim it so it stays put. But I think the tolerances are sufficient that it doesn't have to be spot on. At the end of the day, all the rod has to do it go up and down and the threaded metal pin is more than sufficient to keep it all together.

Get yourself a rod from AliExpress for a few pounds and have a go at it so you're totally comfortable with the task at hand. That will give you a good feel for the material and how it will respond to the drill and tap.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

20- 40 days delivery from AliExpress... and it won't let me create an account. >.<
I logged in with my Facebook credentials only to discover they won't accepy PayPal - and I don't feel comfprtable giving some unknown store in china my credit card details.

Nothing about this job is simple  Might just search for some 6mm (?) nylon rod on eBay.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well that's a big serving of weak toast. :x Yeah, a 6mm nylon rod should at least give you a feel for the material and what it's like to work with it. Slice it up, drill/tap some holes and just get comfortable with it.

Back to your shifter button, if you're not happy with the coin and could live with just a color or pattern, you could always buy a small sheet of foil and cover it in either flat or gloss, carbon fiber, etc. You can buy a small sheet for a few pounds and play around with it. I bought two sheets for less than 10-Euros; silver and flat black for the TT and Tiguan.

Maybe find some "Audi" or "TT" decals and put a layer of gloss over it. Lots of possibilities to custom design your own.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I've ordered some 6mm nylon rod to practise on 

I might have a go at making a button reset tool out of it too - should be strong enough and a lot easier to cut and file than steel or ally.

(edited to add...)
Some bits and bobs just arrived, though rather annoyingly the springs won't be here for another week or so.
Drill, taps, threaded M2 rod (with nuts that I can lock against each other to help screwing it in)










I've already drilled two tiny holes ready for the springs to attach to. Despite being a bit worried about the metal being brittle, I managed to centre punch the casting without any problem... I just used a really sharp punch and proceeded very carefully.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

So far, so good! 

Looking forward to seeing your custom Button Reset Tool. Nylon is really easy to work with, so duplicating the geometry from the picture of the VAG tool you posted should be pretty straight forward. Once you get it designed and tested, you can sketch out the dimensions for anyone else who wants to make one.

The fact you have your Shift Knob already apart will really show it off in action.

Just looking through some hobby videos and thought it might be possible for you to create your own shifter coin decal by printing exactly what you want. Plenty of Audi logos to "borrow" on the web. This video provides some idea for how to create and apply your own design.

*Printing and Applying Waterslide Decal to Pedal Enclosure*





*How to make a CUSTOM Waterslide Decal*


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> *Out with the old, and in with the new! - S-Tronic Gear Knob*
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9#p9285049


A quick question about that guide, it says drill the hole off-centre... why is that? It seems it would make the job harder.

Or was it accidental so that the second piece had to be done off centre to match?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I just looked at the link but I didn't see that comment (off-center). Can you copy-paste where it says that?

I did see a comment that the plastic rod may not be centered in the shaft, which does make sense since since it doesn't need to be a snug fit anyway. It's only going up and down, so the fit can be a bit sloppy which is fine for this application.

But you can always shim it so it is centered before you drill it. In which case your old coffee can may be useful. The shims should keep it from moving while drilling.

Since you are going to intentionally cut the end off, you'll get a nice clean square cut which will be much easier to drill.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I did see a comment that the plastic rod may not be centered in the shaft, which does make sense since since it doesn't need to be a snug fit anyway. It's only going up and down, so the fit can be a bit sloppy which is fine for this application.


My mistake, it does indeed say that the rod might not be centred, not the hole. Oops!

I had a go at making one of these from nylon rod yesterday...










....but after I'd cut out the hook bit at the end, what was left was way too thin to be of any use.
Aluminium would probably be ok, but steel would be better.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The tool is about £15 but I found my dealer won't supply tools over the counter but it can be bought online. Though I admire you making your own. This thread has become a 101 of Stronic knob information!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If anyone has one of these tools, it would be great if you could publish the dimensions. Since *andy mac* has proven nylon isn't the best material for one of these things, aluminum rod would be the next best choice since it's softer than steel and easier to form with just a file.

Or for that one time you need to do this, just go with his initial DIY button reset tool from twisted copper wire (...wire coat hanger maybe..??).


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I did a some measurements in Photoshop, working on the assumption that the diameter is 6mm.
The measurements might be slightly off but as long as the diameter is correct there's probably a bit of leeway.

If I still had my little garden shed I'd be in there making one  A grindstone is probably the best way to make the flat.

Anyway, here's what I came up with ***Sizes are approximate***










It looks pretty easy to make if anyone has the tools... and you could probably make a few quid selling them as the official ones seem hard to get hold of.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Today's experiment, cut, drilled and tapped my practise piece of nylon rod.

It looked ok at first...










...but on further examination it's a bit wonky.










More worryingly, I inserted it into the shifter to see if I could get away with a slight amount of off-centre joining... it went in easily enough but when I pulled it out the top section stayed put.

I only drilled about 5mm deep as per most guides, so I may try 10mm into each section.
A more drastic solution would be to superglue the threaded rod into the nylon one.

Also I used a 1.5mm drill bit, maybe a 1mm followed by a 1.25 would be better for tapping.
I'm judging all this on a fairly soft nylon rod of course, I don't know if the one in the car is made of a slightly harder plastic.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This Metric Drill & Tap table should help.

View attachment 1

View attachment TapDrillSizes (1).pdf


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks Swiss, it says 1.6mm for an M2 thread so I should have been safe with 1.5 but it just pulled out of the rod.

I'm guessing that guides don't make any allowance for softer materials, Im sure 1.6 would be spot on for metals.
More practise needed I think!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You'll notice for M2 there are two options based on the thread pitch.

If it's not biting into the material enough, which would explain why the top pulled off, you may want to go up to an M3 or M4. Any decent hardware store should sell M3 or M4 threaded rod or just cut the head off a 1"-long M3 or M4 screw.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I wondered about that, but looking at the rod used, it's not round, it's an X-section, so I think anything bigger than 2mm might risk cutting through to the outside of the narrowest sections.

Hard to explain what I mean 
This might explain it better than I can.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well, you have plenty of nylon rod to practice on, try an M3 and M4 and see how well they hold. Nothing to loose for trying.

At some point you'll have to pull your shifter off and see exactly what you have to work with. If nothing else you can put a caliper on the gear release rod and get some actual dimensions to see if an M3 or M4 would work or are just too big.

Just looking back at the other forums, and the 2mm threaded rod keeps coming up so I'm guessing the OEM rod is much stronger and stiffer than the nylon rod you're testing.

Here's another source on AliExpress if you want to try an order a replacement. Maybe better luck with these guys -

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3287594 ... 1676loF0NJ


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

The cutting and joining practise is still going on 

In the meantime, the springs arrived and it's back in one piece... so I'm back where I was two weeks ago before this lengthy saga began.










I found it much easier to attach the springs to the holes I made in the silver "ledge" first, slip the metal top back on to the housing, then pull the springs into place on the trigger/button using a bit of hooked wire... so the opposite of what the guy in the video did. No string required!

No pics of the assembly process unfortunately, I needed both hands and all my concentration while reassembling.

In lieu of that here's a scribble that will make sense if you look back at earlier pictures in this thread.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

So basically like the previous post, but with the addition of the two holes to secure the springs. Perfect! 

Do you have the specifics for the springs? I don't believe you've posted any information on what you ordered.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Actually... I found one a few pages back that shows what I mean... except it was easier without the chrome trigger/button cover (which was the last part I refitted).










(edit to add) I think you might have sent me the link for the springs originally... these are the ones:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-E ... azon-uk-21

Really cheap, seem to be good quality. The only downside is 2 weeks delivery.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Okay, looks like the jobs all done then. Excellent!

Now you just have to swap it out for your factory OEM shifter knob.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I still haven't plucked up the courage to take a saw to my shifter rod yet 
I've butchered so much nylon rod on my "practise runs" that I've run out.

I know it seems like I'm faffing around with this but you only get one chance to get the real thing correct.

I made a couple of drill guides using the pictures on previous pages but being made from wood, there's a bit too much slack... I had to drill them freehand and scrapped a load because I couldn't get the hole centred. It started in the centre but drifted slightly =/
It's times like this I still had my old wood turning lathe!

Latest discovery: Aluminium isn't strong enough to make a reset tool from.
I managed to make one from aluminium, but it's quite thin at the hook end... steel would be the best option if anyone's thinking of making one.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looking back through this post, your use of a twisted length of copper wire seems like the cheapest and easiest solution. 
And it works!


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## CharlieS (Jan 5, 2018)

Good to see your making progress Andy!

Fingers crossed you get there!


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Not sure I'd call it progress, but thank you 

I've butchered a load of nylon rod and still not managed to get one single join straight yet.
I tried making the wooden "drill guides" but without a wood lathe and/or a drill press it's impossible to get them spot on.

Out of curiosity I contacted a website that gathers quotes for "one off" engineering jobs to make the drill guides out of mild steel - that way the measurements would be really tight and less prone to the drill eating away at the guide holes.

Unfortunately their minimum price is £120 and I'm not paying that when I know it's literally a ten minute job with the correct tools and a couple of quids worth of mild steel bar.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

andy mac said:


> Not sure I'd call it progress
> 
> I've butchered a load of nylon rod and still not managed to get one single join straight yet.
> I tried making the wooden "drill guides" but without a wood lathe and/or a drill press it's impossible to get them spot on.
> ...


Hi andy,

I can ship my drill guide (well, my father made it ) to you if you don't mind paying postage fees. I've already done it to my tt and I swear I won't do it ever again in anyone else's tt (felt like deactivating a bomb) so I supose I won't ever need it again.

Just keep in mind it isn't perfectly centered, but as the rod itself isn't perfectly centered as well, it's a matter of getting the best alignment, just making sure deviations don't add up.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *andy mac* - Since you have a pin drill, you should be able to just drill the rod by hand, rather than using a Dremel or drill. You can go slow, and ensure the drill is centered and properly aligned. Start with a very small drill (1mm) then re-drill up to the correct size to tap for the M2 threaded rod.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

pedracca said:


> Hi andy,
> 
> I can ship my drill guide (well, my father made it ) to you if you don't mind paying postage fees. I've already done it to my tt and I swear I won't do it ever again in anyone else's tt (felt like deactivating a bomb) so I supose I won't ever need it again.
> 
> Just keep in mind it isn't perfectly centered, but as the rod itself isn't perfectly centered as well, it's a matter of getting the best alignment, just making sure deviations don't add up.


Thanks for the offer mate, that's very kind... I'm waiting for someone to get back to me with a quote (a cheap one hopefully!) for making them out of ally or mild steel. That should stop the drill wandering 



SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *andy mac* - Since you have a pin drill, you should be able to just drill the rod by hand, rather than using a Dremel or drill. You can go slow, and ensure the drill is centered and properly aligned. Start with a very small drill (1mm) then re-drill up to the correct size to tap for the M2 threaded rod.


I tried the pin drill and got nowhere, I think either the drills I got with it aren't much good or the nylon rod is just plain difficult to drill. 
**Note to anyone planning to use a Dremel** - it can quickly melt the rod! A hand drill or pin drill is a better option.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

*PROGRESS!*
Nice sunny afternoon, so I got stuck in.
There are already loads of guides about removing the centre console trim (which I discovered isn't at all necessary) and old knob, so I'll start with...

Selector rod pre-surgery










Old knob with zip tie stuffed in to prevent button slipping back in










Measuring height of uncut rod for reference when re-attaching. Mine was 25mm but *check as yours may be different*.










Top sawn off. Gulp. Wasn't too straight so I sanded it a bit.










My new drilling jigs!
After giving up on anyone getting back to me with a quote for metal ones, I got them 3D printed, very reasonable too at £20 for the pair. One was slightly too small so I emailed the guy and he got it to me the next day with no extra charge.

I've asked him to keep the 3D plans/files/whatever they call them in case anyone else wants some:
http://www.tripleaxis.co.uk - the guy I dealt with is James.










Drilling jig in place










After drilling down about 1mm I ditched the large jig and went for it "freehand" with a 1mm drill, then a 1.5.

The reason for not using the jig after the pilot hole was drilled is that the drills I bought are quite short and in order to reach through the jig, only a small section would be left for the chuck to grip and I was worried about flexing/snapping.
You could leave the jig in place if you can find a longer drill bit... or adjust the jig design to suit a shorter drill.
[edit to add - I've revised the drawings, if you go with the new design you can leave the guide in place).










One nice neat centred hole. I forgot to photograph the process for the top bit but it's the same, but obviously using the smaller jig (6mm and 1.5mm holes).










...and finally the rod top attached. I used a tiny dab of Araldite on both ends of the threaded rod. Can't see me ever removing it again!










I missed a step (I was concentrating so hard I forgot to take pics) - tapping the two pieces and inserting the 2mm threaded rod. I screwed it into the top section first then snipped off the end to leave 10mm for screwing into the bottom section.
I found this picture somewhere else but mine looked pretty much the same:









I'm doing the reinstallation of the knob tomorrow as it's getting dark now, I'll post more pics when I'm done.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

....oh, and...

I'm having some of these done as domed pvc stickers with a view to using one in place of the TTs badge (Mine's not an "S" so it would bug me). I've no idea what the quality will be like but they weren't too expensive.
(The top will be cropped to fit the "D" shape of the insert)










also...

Here's the drawing I sent the 3D printer, just in case they're useful to anyone.
*(edit to add... I've since altered the measurements to allow the drill to reach further - this is no longer to scale but clearly shows the new measurements, I'll revise it and scale it properly later*)


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Nice work was only just wondering how you was getting on with this. I'm bottling out doing it and getting a Leyo shift knob. 
I'd prefer what your doing for oem looks but Murphy rules would hit me hard so looking forward to your completion pics. 
You have put so much effort into this.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I've been on the verge of scrapping the idea for weeks but the jigs really helped - the holes were spot on centre in both the top piece and the bit in the shifter mechanism.

I took it really slowly, used a pin drill rather than a Dremel and thankfully this stuff is a lot easier to drill than the nylon rod I'd been practising on, so that helped.

Just got the (theoretically) easy bit left for tomorrow... though I'm half tempted to sand and recoat the centre console trim while it's out - it's got the usual scratches and corrosion in places. Undecided though, can't make my mind up whether carbon fibre would be nicer.... though the car's black and the interior's various shades of black so a bit of brightwork does look quite good.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks like a neat job. Did you pull the blue rod up before cutting it, or leave it resting? How far do you reckon you drilled into each piece?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

MT-V6 said:


> Looks like a neat job. Did you pull the blue rod up before cutting it, or leave it resting?


Thanks  
No, I just cut it flush with the top of the outer tube.



MT-V6 said:


> How far do you reckon you drilled into each piece?


About 6-7mm into the top piece (as far as I could without breaking through to the "eye") and 10mm into the lower bit.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Andy - Good luck with the work today - looking forward to the pics - I think may be my favourite mod. Given the effort you've been to I almost feel I've cheated being a 'heat & twister'


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

JohnnyFarmer said:


> Andy - Good luck with the work today - looking forward to the pics - I think may be my favourite mod. Given the effort you've been to I almost feel I've cheated being a 'heat & twister'


Thanks mate, to be honest either method is nail-biting stuff 

By the way, for anyone who is interested (someone mentioned it a few pages back), here's the third method - replacing the whole thing from underneath... the name on this video looks very familiar 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXPB-iM ... IanGonzaga

A question for you Johnny before I start reattaching stuff - fitting the original leather boot/gaiter to the new knob.
Which bits did you use from either the old one or the new one?

Original one










New one










It looks like the big retaining ring on the new knob would be too big to get into the neck of the gaiter.
I managed to keep the thin metal clip in one piece but is it ok to just ignore the fasteners and use a zip tie?
I don't want the thing coming off obviously.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

It was a while ago but as I recall - I used the old bits - metal ring clip & other plastic retainer from your upper picture & was lucky enough to have a new gaiter with the face lift knob - but found the whole large retaining fixing not as tight as the original will try to have a look but wont be able to check till this evening


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

This evening is fine, thanks Johnny.

I've just filled the gap where the two bits of rod join with some epoxy to be double safe... and I'd rather let that set overnight. I'll smooth it all tomorrow before the final fitting.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well done, well done indeed! Given all your initial apprehension, this project has turned out quite well! You figured out how to disassemble the shifter, then how to repair a broken button spring and followed it all up by providing clear and precise instructions for cutting-drilling-fitting and repositioning the shifter rod. Outstanding work! 
[smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks Swiss, and to everyone for the encouragement 

As I mentioned I'll probably wait til tomorrow to reassemble everything, but in the meantime I found some dark grey (almost black) brushed finish wrap that I had left over from another (abandoned) project, and there's exactly enough to do the console and ash tray cover!

Still undecided about this as I still like silver, but thought I'd try my hand at wrapping.
If I keep it, I'll have to get the ash tray out... which looks a tad tricky.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Looks as though I did use the new one - after all. Can't for the life of me remember how it went together - I think I know what would happen if I tried to pull it apart for a look - much as I want you to succeed. :? :wink:










Nice looking wrap


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks again Johnny - from that it looks like the bottom bit is from the old one and the top (thick) one from the new one.
I've got both sat in my kitchen so I'll try to work out how they go together.

I like that carbon fibre - looks like the real deal rather than a wrap?

(edit to add...) Just found this on Youtube, pretty useful instructions on how to remove/reinstall the plastic collar..





Another question (for anyone)... I've got the blue rod pulled up about a centimetre and wedged while the epoxy sets, and I can't take the key out of the ignition. I'm hoping it's a simple case of the blue rod having to be all the way down. 
Can anyone confirm?

I've locked it with my spare key in a quiet corner so should be ok. _(Dear Churchill Insurance, I did not just say that)_


----------



## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

Hi,

Just tried it and I cannot turn the key all the way back to remove it when the button on the pressed, even when it's in P.

Peter


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks for checking Peter, that's good news


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

You mean I need to wait another night - this is worse than Game of Thrones.

( Hey Pete - shall we sneak round to Andy's gaff & nick his TT?I have a spare old gear knob so we could turn the blue stick back before it sets & drive off [smiley=gossip.gif] )

The Carbon was OSIR - Unfortunately NOT worth it - given my time again I'd wrap the console like I did the door handles - and might try the chrome steeringwheel trim


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

JohnnyFarmer said:


> You mean I need to wait another night - this is worse than Game of Thrones.


I'm hoping the final episode won't be quite as disastrous 



JohnnyFarmer said:


> ( Hey Pete - shall we sneak round to Andy's gaff & nick his TT?I have a spare old gear knob so we could turn the blue stick back before it sets & drive off [smiley=gossip.gif] )


You'll have to get past my crack security team first!












JohnnyFarmer said:


> The Carbon was OSIR - Unfortunately NOT worth it - given my time again I'd wrap the console like I did the door handles - and might try the chrome steeringwheel trim


It looks pretty decent from that tiny section you posted. I think I'm going to leave mine wrapped for now, although I didn't make a great job of it. At least now I know I can do it and I'm quite tempted to have another go in the near future.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I saw that a reply was posted and just sat through an interview wanting to see the finished article and I get a mouse armed to the teeth. 
The suspense is killing me now fingers crossed for a happy ending.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Bernard is a rat and is most offended that you called him a mouse 

Just started!

Here's a teaser, blue rod complete with rotated top and reinforced with epoxy, which I've just smoothed off to make sure it slides nicely. Just waiting for some Loctite to set as one of the screws holding the switches into the centre console appears to have stripped threads. Hopefully the Loctite will give it something to hang onto.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Next problem...

Battery is flat, probably due to leaving the key in... it probably activates something, even in the off position.
I looked up videos showing where the jump lead points are under the bonnet/hood, but they're not as shown here (the one shown is definitely a 3.2):










....and here's mine...










I'm very confused.
Obviously I can't get to the battery to use the jumper booster pack thingy there as the boot won't open... unless there's a secret method of getting into the boot? I've looked online but no luck there.

Would it be safe to use these points in the fuse box?


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Assuming you have a coupe lower rear seats and your looking for an oval insert top right on boot trim with a slot in the middle. 
Pop it out and pull and boot open.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Nidana said:


> Assuming you have a coupe lower rear seats and your looking for an oval insert top right on boot trim with a slot in the middle.
> Pop it out and pull and boot open.


I'll try that thanks... is that right hand side of the car looking from the front or the rear?


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

So it's not lost in translation of left to right and all that jazz.

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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Nidana said:


> So it's not lost in translation of left to right and all that jazz.
> k


Excellent, thank you for the swift reply, most grateful.

Car is running now, I'll go finish everything and be back soon with the last part of this epic saga


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Almost there ... at this point I discovered the flat battery.










.....and.... DONE!!


















What's more, everything still works.. which is always a bonus for me. 

I've hooked up my CTek and having a well earned break now. 
Later I'll go and vacuum/dust the interior which is covered in tools, dust and debris from the install.

Thanks again to everyone for the encouragement and advice, honestly I'd have given up on the idea after the springs went _twwwaaaaaang_ if it hadn't been for all of you.

I know this job would have taken someone who knew what they were doing an hour or two... and I started this thread five weeks ago! It's been interesting though and now I know how to disassemble, mend and reassemble a DSG knob!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Very, very nice! 

Seems you don't have the Jump Start terminals. But it's available if you want to get the kit from Audi and install it yourself. You can read about it here in the KB.

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
*2.6 Retrofitting Jump Start Terminal in the Engine Bay*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Thought I'd post a list of useful stuff.

1. If you accidentally get the button on your new shifter stuck in, *DO NOT* use any of the methods shown on YouTube where a screwdriver (or other pointy tool) is inserted under the trigger - the springs are *VERY* fragile.

Instead, use a bit of twisted wire with with a loop at the top, or some thicker wire fashioned into a long hook.
Just insert it through the bottom and it's pretty easy to hook it over the little lever.
Better still, get hold of the proper button release tool. You then go in through the bottom of the knob and pull the lever back into place - lots of videos around of this so I needn't explain any further.

2. If you're the kind of rebel who ignores tip #1, all is not lost. The knob can be disassembled fairly easily once you know what you're doing (hopefully some of the pictures I've posted will help).

3. If you _do_ strip the knob down, drill two tiny holes to locate the hook bits on the end of the springs - again, skip back a few pages for details and pictures. Why they didn't do this at the factory escapes me, it makes things much more secure.

4. Useful tip - and I didn't discover it until I removed the centre console trim: 
*You don't need to remove the centre console trim! *
If you carefully insert a trim tool or thin bit of plastic where the leather boot sits in the silver circular surround, 
it will pull out, as shown in this video around 2 minutes in: 




5. Drill guides/jigs are a really, _really_ useful tool. Make your own or buy some from a 3D printer - I used this guy (James) https://www.tripleaxis.co.uk

Measure everything carefully. Then measure it again before cutting or drilling anything.

6. You don't need to use any bits from your old shifter as long as your new one has the big locking ring.
(Johnny somehow managed to make one old bit and one new bit fit together, I couldn't work out how to, so I only used the new locking ring and it seems pretty secure).

7. After attaching the now-rotated top onto the rest of the blue rod, fill the gap (from where it was sawn) with epoxy, leave it overnight then sand it smooth. Makes it a stronger join and a nice smooth finish that will slide up and down easily.

Don't forget, you want the very top of the rod to be the same height as it was before cutting. Cutting the rod with a hacksaw leaves approximately a 1mm gap, so allow for that. 
You're aiming for 25mm - well, I was... make sure you measure the height of the rod before cutting!


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Very, very nice!
> 
> Seems you don't have the Jump Start terminals. But it's available if you want to get the kit from Audi and install it yourself. You can read about it here in the KB.
> 
> ...


Thanks Swiss, now I know where the emergency boot release is I'm not too bothered.
I guess they weren't fitted to very early Mk2s?

Not quite finished yet by the way, I've just sent this design off to a sticker manufacturer to see if they can do custom shapes (could probably have used circular and trimmed it, but if they can do it it'll be neater.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Pleased it's all gone so well for you. Thankyou for tip no4 will come in handy on Friday or Saturday for me. 
Have a well earned virtual  on me.

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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Nidana said:


> Pleased it's all gone so well for you. Thankyou for tip no4 will come in handy on Friday or Saturday for me.
> Have a well earned virtual  on me.


Are you doing the same swap?

Here's a video showing how to remove the gaiter/boot without removing the console trim:


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Sorry no I wimped out and going with this.






Contemplated this but only suitable version comes with the "S" logo.






Then the only other one I found is the BFI and like the above it's a lift up the whole knob which doesn't feel natural to me. The Leyo you do lift up a latch under the shift knob which seems natural like the pressing of the button on the oem. Like a motion as you clasp your hand around it.

In my head it sounds right at least. I'd still prefer what you have done but I know it's not the cutting part I'm worried about it's the drilling part.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Nidana said:


> Sorry no I wimped out and going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like the look of the second one with the knurled finish, very industrial!

I know what you mean about the drilling bit, I nearly bottled it on several occasions.
The drill guides/jigs help a lot and even using those I started off by just making the tiniest of cuts with the drill bit first, just enough to check that it was perfectly centred.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good to see you finally got it fitted. I have to get around to fitting mine, I have had it in the cupboard for months :lol:

Would you mind sharing where you got the drill jigs made? Looks like a useful tool to make it a bit less risky


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Well done Andy - it has certainly been a great journey & the feel of the new selector never disappoints  - albeit gently for the first few months - that being said the force required to lift the blue plastic rod - is minimal and it's likely (with clearly no intention to demean the work) the change is appropriately over-engineered for all the right reasons.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

MT-V6 said:


> Good to see you finally got it fitted. I have to get around to fitting mine, I have had it in the cupboard for months :lol:
> 
> Would you mind sharing where you got the drill jigs made? Looks like a useful tool to make it a bit less risky


Here you go...
https://www.tripleaxis.co.uk/
The guy I spoke to is James, I'll send him an email and ask him to expect another order - if you tell him Andy from TT Forums recommended him, he'll know which design/3D file you mean


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

JohnnyFarmer said:


> Well done Andy - it has certainly been a great journey & the feel of the new selector never disappoints  - albeit gently for the first few months - that being said the force required to lift the blue plastic rod - is minimal and it's likely (with clearly no intention to demean the work) the change is appropriately over-engineered for all the right reasons.


Thanks mate, and thanks for all the advice!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just a quick comment to clarify the use of Locktite when screwing metal screws into plastic.

Be sure the type of Loctite, or other thread locking agent, will not have an adverse reaction with the plastic. Some forms are not compatible with plastic and can actually degrade or damage plastic components.

_"Loctite, like other similar products, is available in different formulations for specific applications. For example, Loctite 404 can be used to join the ends of synthetic rubber O-rings. Removable Loctite Threadlocker 242 carries the warning "May attack some plastics." With any such compounds, users must know the materials on which they will be used and the possible adverse interactions.

When using Loctite, be sure that it will contact only metal parts; or, if it will contact plastic parts, be sure that they are resistant to the formulation of Loctite being used. Loctite Corp. offers the guide How to Bond Plastics, which can be used to help users select the proper product. The guide states that Loctite's instant adhesives, such as SuperBonder materials, can be used with most plastics."_

_"Loctite® Plastics Bonding System is a two-part cyanoacrylate adhesive that sets in seconds and develops tremendous strength with just one drop. The activator primes hard-to-bond surfaces such as polypropylene and polyethylene. Loctite® Super Glue Plastics Bonding System dries clear and sets without clamping. It is resistant to water, most chemicals and freezing temperatures."_

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/prod ... ystem.html

Over the years, I have found JB Weld adhesive to be superior the clear yellowish/white two-part epoxy systems as once set and hardened, it can be drilled, tapped, cut and sanded and can handle high temperatures found in the engine bay.

https://www.jbweld.com/products

.


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

I must be one of the very few (or only) members who doesn't mind my 'old-school' side stick gear shift. :lol:

Been fascinating to follow your progress Andy with the engineering and problem solving you've shown to finally get it installed. Great work, you must be chuffed!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

andy mac said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > Good to see you finally got it fitted. I have to get around to fitting mine, I have had it in the cupboard for months :lol:
> ...


Thanks a lot for that. Did you go for FDM or SLA printing? I've not had anything 3D printed before so it's all new to me


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

CurryMan said:


> I must be one of the very few (or only) members who doesn't mind my 'old-school' side stick gear shift. :lol:
> Been fascinating to follow your progress Andy with the engineering and problem solving you've shown to finally get it installed. Great work, you must be chuffed!


I am really pleased, it's taken forever but it worked.... and I didn't break too many things along the way!



MT-V6 said:


> Thanks a lot for that. Did you go for FDM or SLA printing? I've not had anything 3D printed before so it's all new to me


I've got no idea  I've emailed James to tell him someone from the TT Forums will be ordering, so if you just tell him "same as you made for Andy" you should be ok.

There's one adjustment I'd have made in retrospect - the guides/jigs could have less length on the 1.5m holes section, so that'd be 20mm rather than 25. This is because most 1.5mm drills aren't much longer than 30mm, so the pin drill chuck only has a small bit to grip onto.... give me a sec and I'll alter the plan to show what I mean.... (see next post)


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Here you go - it's a bit crude but shows clearly what I mean.
(NB Not to scale)


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Just another quick Thankyou Andy for tip no4 has just saved me from potentially damaging the brushed trim.

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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Nidana said:


> Just another quick Thankyou Andy for tip no4 has just saved me from potentially damaging the brushed trim.


You're very welcome, that's the great thing about this forum, loads of useful info.
To be fair the trim comes out fairly easily but why do it when you don't have to eh?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

andy mac said:


> Here you go - it's a bit crude but shows clearly what I mean.


I have just ordered the modified drilling tools as in this image. Looking forward to finally getting around to fitting the new knob

How long did it take for you to receive the tools?


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

MT-V6 said:


> andy mac said:
> 
> 
> > Here you go - it's a bit crude but shows clearly what I mean.
> ...


Two days from ordering to delivery, so pretty fast.

One thing to check, 3d printed parts tend to shrink ever so slightly after manufacturing (or so I was told) - James allowed for this while making them, but I still had to open the 6mm hole up a very small amount (literally a fraction of a millimetre) as it was slightly tight. It didn't affect the accuracy at all.

You might not have to, but double check when they arrive. 
Good luck with your project and don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions.

Another tip I'd add is: Put the drilling guide/jig in place the gently push the drill in just enough to mark the plastic rod.
It's more for peace of mind than anything but it shows you exactly where the hole will end up.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I finally got around to fitting mine today, after it has been in the cupboard for months. Thanks Andy Mac for the info too, as many of the other guides online 'bodge' the modification of the shaft. Much of this is the same as that already posted, but hopefully it is still useful.

Before, never been a fan of this. Noughties manual Audis all had pretty nice gear knobs, a shame that all the autos were ugly:










As mentioned above, the gaiter can be removed just by levering it out with a trim tool:










The old gear knob is held on with an ear clamp. The easiest way to remove these is by prising the end with a flat screwdriver, but be careful not to slip and scratch anything:










I used a thick cable tie to hold the button out:










It can now be removed with a sharp tug to reveal the lever and blue shaft:










Measuring the before, 25/26mm:










I used masking tape to mark where I wanted to cut. I actually lifted the shaft up a little and wedged it with a screwdriver in the 'gate'. I also used a rag to stop debris falling down. I used a razor saw, specifically a Zona 35-150. It was easy to use and didn't remove too much material:










No going back now:










Now to use the first 'Andy Mac tool'  This fitted over the lever perfectly, combined with a pin vice with 1.5mm drill bit:










Then repeat on the other piece with the second 'Andy Mac tool'  :










I then tapped a thread in them with an M2 bit:










The perfectly centred threaded holes, I would definitely recommend using these drilling guides as it would be difficult to do it without:










Since I drilled about 10mm into each piece, I cut the M2 threaded rod to about 18mm. Then simply twist it in:










I put a little epoxy in the gap, just in case, and lightly filed the join:










Still the same length of 25/26mm:










I also put a little dab of grease in the slot before refitting the new gear knob. Mine is fitted like Johnny Farmer's, with the bottom plastic piece, then the twist fit gaiter part locking into that. There doesn't appear to be space for an ear clamp or cable tie:










Such an improvement, definitely worth the upgrade.

For the record, mine is an S-line part, with black perforated leather, and plain black leather gaiter with black stitching, part number 8J2 713 139 H QPY


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *andy mac* & *MT-V6* - Very nice write up guys, really well done! The 3D printed drill fixture really seems to make all the difference to ensure the holes are dead-center. Looks really great. 

As much as I'd like to add this to my Roadster, the glare issue is a concern. Been eye-balling the A3/S3 shifter since it's also a front button, but has a matte leather finish (smooth or golf ball pattern) so when it's in D or S, there's no annoying glare off the coin on top.

There's a version that includes a red trim ring at the base of the shifter, but from what I've read on other forums, it's prone to breaking. Going to shop around and see what I can find.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I quite like that design too. It is from the 8V generation A3, but I would assume that the fit is the same?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That's the big question. I have no idea if it's compatible with the TT shifter geometry.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

@ MT-V6, You made a really nice, neat job of that mate, excellent!
You even remembered to photograph the steps that I missed (aluminium clamp ring, tapping etc.)
The razor saw was a great idea too.

Did the drilling jigs work "out of the box" with no fine adjustment needed? (ie opening up any of the holes a bit)

@ Swiss, I had a quick look (which you've probably done already) but couldn't find any details about that knob.
You know what your mission's gonna be as soon as you find one though don't you? 
Part two!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *andy mac* - Do you have a link to the CAD file used to print the 3D drilling fixtures? I have a colleague here who has his own 3D printer, might be worth giving it a try.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *andy mac* - Do you have a link to the CAD file used to print the 3D drilling fixtures? I have a colleague here who has his own 3D printer, might be worth giving it a try.


I don't unfortunately, the guy I used managed to make them from my 2D drawings.
They're pretty simple shapes though, could your colleague create CAD files from my drawings?

Also... completely off topic but: how do you tag people in posts? 

++++++++++++++++++EDITED TO ADD++++++++++++++++++++
3D files now available here: https://gofile.io/d/dimDq8


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I did have to drill out the 6mm hole a little like you said, but only very slightly. The lever one was fine. They were very useful so thanks again for getting them designed!

As for tagging, not possible on this ancient forum software


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

andy mac said:


> SwissJetPilot said:
> 
> 
> > They're pretty simple shapes though, could your colleague create CAD files from my drawings?


Yeah, should be pretty straight forward. I'll have to get with him and come up with a CAD file that I can post on here for anyone who has access to a 3D printer.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

MT-V6 said:


> ... thanks again for getting them designed!


No problem 
On a slightly different topic, I've just been reading your progress thread and drooling over the xenon conversion!



SwissJetPilot said:


> Yeah, should be pretty straight forward. I'll have to get with him and come up with a CAD file that I can post on here for anyone who has access to a 3D printer.


If I can find a free trial of some (simple!) CAD software I'll have a go myself.
I tried it just before this project but found it baffling.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *andy mac* - Do you have a link to the CAD file used to print the 3D drilling fixtures? I have a colleague here who has his own 3D printer, might be worth giving it a try.


I had a play with Fusion 360 and I think I may have done it... I can't guarantee that I got it right, it's my first attempt.

It might be an idea to ask your friend with the 3D printer if they look like the ones in my drawing.
You should be able to download them here: https://gofile.io/d/dimDq8

I Googled "what file format for 3D printing and most recommend .stl files, so that's what I've done.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

The drilling guides are such a simple design that it is not a good application of 3D printing. It is such a simple job to do on a lathe and could be done in less time than it would take to produce a CAD file let alone print it out.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

tttony said:


> The drilling guides are such a simple design that it is not a good application of 3D printing. It is such a simple job to do on a lathe and could be done in less time than it would take to produce a CAD file let alone print it out.


Yep, if I still had my old lathe and "workshop" (garden shed) I could have knocked them out in half an hour tops.

I contacted loads of people to see if they could do them. Most didn't bother replying and the one that did quoted me £120.

The 3D printed ones work perfectly, the guy made and delivered them quickly (and cheaply) so I was happy with them.
Someone who knows what they're doing with CAD files could probably design them in a few minutes, they're as basic as it gets. (or they could just use the ones I made yesterday)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you want to view STL files, just drag and drop them into this online viewer. Any hobby 3D printer should be able to handle them easily enough.

https://www.viewstl.com/


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

My custom "badges" (stickers) arrived a short while ago and while they look good, they don't fit properly 

Being domed with a silver backing, there's not much flex in them and the top of the shifter knob is curved (convex) so they don't sit properly. I tried them as a replacement for the original emblem, and then stuck to the top of it.
Neither option works.

I might try getting the same design done as plain vinyl stickers to see if I can wrap the original badge/emblem.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I do like your imaginative idea for the button. 
As you have ok'd this my none oem with a custom made button for the top. 









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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

That looks really good and yup, the dome works fine on yours.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You might take a look at the transfer paper I posted earlier.

Just print what you want and wet transfer the logo directly onto your shifter. Spray with clear matte or gloss to provide some protection and that should do it.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You might take a look at the transfer paper I posted earlier.
> 
> Just print what you want and wet transfer the logo directly onto your shifter. Spray with clear matte or gloss to provide some protection and that should do it.


I'll take another look, I suspect I was distracted with my dismantling etc. at the time and didn't read it properly.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Page 5 of this post, towards the bottom. There's also a couple of YouTube link to see how it works.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9404481


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

New sticker installed, I'm not sure how long it'll last as the white bit seems to be printed onto the black backing (I thought it might have been the other way round), and it's not as shiny as I'd have liked =/

It'll do for now.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Nice work and it's finally all complete really like your button top design.

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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I ended up buying the tool in the end. I have no immediate need, but I thought it could get me out of a situation in future. And I like buying tools anyway so it was a good excuse!

And it comes with a sticker, who doesn't like free stickers?!


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