# Where is the Comfort Control Module Found?



## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Can anyone tell me where the comfort control module is on a tt roadster quatro 225 year 2000. I have looked in the boot beside striking plate as advised but can't see it. I believe I need a new one and want to check it etc. Thanks in advance Matt


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

it's in the boot under all the plastic and next to the spare tire it is silver by the way can put up a photo if needed.


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Photo would be appreciated. I removed all plastic and even hoovered around tyre area when I moved it. I didn't notice it! Is it in the same position on all cars? Someone has suggested behind my drivers seat....


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## KammyTT (Jun 28, 2006)

whats the comfort control module?


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## ttjay (Apr 18, 2007)

It the central locking ECU
On the Coupe its behind the rear speaker panel


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

here you go mate


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks for help far... but my comfort control module is not in boot. I am getting suggestions that it is behind drivers seat in speaker card. Would this be the same for a roadster quatro tt year 2000 before I take it apart. Can anyone confirm please and maybe some advice or link to how to do? Thanks Matt


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

ecko2702 said:


> here you go mate


Why have you posted a picture of my spare coil pack? :roll:


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## JNmercury00 (May 22, 2007)

Wak said:


> ecko2702 said:
> 
> 
> > here you go mate
> ...


lmfao!


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## ELLIOTT (Feb 29, 2008)

:lol:


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

are you shitting me that's not it!? I got that from here http://audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128455


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Blimey this ones turning into a mystery. Anyone else want to have a go.....Its not behind the speaker panel behind the drivers seat either. Can anyone help please, please, please...


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## ttjay (Apr 18, 2007)

This is a pic of a LHD TT though

On the coupe its the drivers side - remove the rear speaker card and its in the well of the rear wing


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Didn't notice it there but will have another look...


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Still cant find this thing. Can anyone assist please.. Matt


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## KentishTT (Jun 28, 2007)

Matt has a Roadster folks, so may be in a different location to the coupe.

Sadly, I also don't know where it is so can't offer any advice.

Did you fit your A/C control panel Matt?


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## matt1973 (Feb 5, 2009)

Please can anyone assist. I believe I need to change this thing but cant find it. Matt


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## alanstotty (Jul 25, 2006)

I will try best to explain without picture......... :roll:

If you are standing at the back of your car, it is on the left. What I did, was pull the left hand panel off first, then loosened the panel next to the seat. The CCU is situated just below, the pin that clips on the seat.


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## detmbailey (Dec 5, 2009)

If you have an audi tt roadster(mine is a 2001) the comfort control module is located behind the passenger seat. You have to take the passenger seat out, remove the panels where you will be able to get a visual and access to the module. Go to the trunk area remove the panels. there are two nuts that will have to be removed from the inside where the top goes down.(located on the right hand side from the rear). Once those nuts are removed you will be able to detach the module...it has about five or so plug-ins attached to it (assorted colors). If you return to the inside passenger side you will be able to unplug the module. The dealer will tell you that the top has to be removed to gain access to the module, this is not true.


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

matt1973 said:


> Still cant find this thing. Can anyone assist please.. Matt


Did you ever find this?

I removed mine today, Thursday 21st June 2018. I have a UK spec, right hand drive, 2000 Audi TT 1.8 Quattro 225 and the CCM has been giving me problems. I removed loads of trim in the boot, but that's not helped. So... I took out the driver's seat and reached in through the lockable door that is behind it.










This is taken with the hood up, looking down through the inspection hatch, and the picture shows the socket in place to undo the right 10mm nut. The left one is very close to that.

Removing the seat was simple and took five minutes. This also helps with cleaning the carpet. I will post more images and some hints on this as I progress, but for now I am struggling to remove the wiring harness from the CCM.








That's the door removed from behind the Driver's seat.

Looking in through that doorway, and up towards the parcel shelf, you can see the CC Module bolted to the panel.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I'm not roadster familiar, but it looks like you have great access from that top down looking hatch.

Why do you have to remove the seat and get additional access?


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

The reason for taking the Driver's seat out is to allow me to reach in with the socket set, to where I can see the nuts. This has to be done with the roof up, as the folded roof covers the inspection hatch in the parcel shelf, and the roof being up stops me from being able to reach from above.

I took the photo by having the camera above the parcel shelf, but I can't get my head in that space to see what I'm doing.

Another advantage of having the seat away, is that you can only get the module unplugged from that end, as the cables don't reach far enough to bring the module up and out.

Removing the seat is really easy. There are caps on the front edge of the runners and they are easy to just prise forward and off. Then slide the seat fully back and undo the two bolts. They are in at about 60 degrees to make it easier to get the socket on them. They are a weird Torx type head, more details tomorrow when I check the toolbox.



















Then slide the seat forward, and make it lean fully forward as well, and undo the rear two, which are straight up. The front's came out easily, but the rear two took a bit of force, and both made a loud crack when I started to undo them.










Once I had all four out, and the seat loose, I jacked it up with the socket set, to allow me to look underneath at the electrical connections. I should almost certainly have disconnected the battery before doing all this, but I didn't, I just worried instead.










Looking under the seat, I got one clip off OK but the other was tight and came off the mounting. I unplugged it then attached it to the seat again. Then, I lifted the seat clear and realised I would need to get a hoover involved before refitting the seat.










The access door uses the ignition key to secure it.

So, that's the front seat out of the way.

Returning to my original post, the next phase, after unscrewing the two 10mm nuts, was to unplug the connectors, I drew blood, but they came off without damage to the car.



















*This has all been a waste of time!*


I opened the unit up and to my dismay, there is nothing wrong with it. I had expected to find water or corrosion damage, but it is in perfect condition, as you will see. I thought that at least the connections would be green, but no.





































So, I put it all back together and the roof still fails to move, although I now hear a noise when I try it, and I can't really say if it was doing that before. It worked when I got the car three years ago, but eventually became so slow to move that I gave up and just do it manually now. I suspect that the pump has run out of fluid, so that's the next job.


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

I should mention, that I am hoping to sell this car soon. I have had three great years out of it, but only did about 1,200 miles in the last year as I have three other vehicles.

I spent nearly 600 quid on tyres for the MOT last year, and the recent MoT ate up another 340. With insurance (for business use) costing me £640 a year, it has to go.

@ 86,000 miles I reckon it's not had a hard life. The Baseball trim is nice, but the colour is battleship grey. Aircon needs gassed and it has a boy racer turbo boost gauge in place of one of the centre air vents. Apart from that, it's great. The two changes I made were to have Cruise Control fitted by Toby at vwgolfr32.co.uk on the day that I bought the car, and after a few months I had the stupid big oversized Brembo brakes removed. That cost me nearly £1,500 for the proper Audi disks, pads, calipers etc.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Skipdriver, that's a great write up/photo gallery. Wish you had done it before I done my drain tubes last year, it would have been helpful to me ! Have you checked the two relays on top of the pump which as you probably know is located under another flap on the opposite side to the ccm. These can fail or at least one can fail. If you swap them over it might get the roof moving and then at least you might know a cause of your problem ? Personally I love the baseball interior but have never seen one near me for sale.


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## PG02 (Oct 9, 2012)

Hi Guys

I just replaced my CCM on my roadster - went in through the top, fiddly but do-able!

My CCM failed due to water ingress - always check your drain tubes are clear - one of mine had become blocked resulting in water overflowing from the tube catchment tray and then dripping over the CCM, shorting out contacts etc.

Symptoms of fault: Central locking by key fob not working; Roof motor inoperative, Boot release button inop; fuel flap release button inop.

Used ccm bought on Ebay £240.00 -ouch! fitted and everything now working except locking via key fob. If I lock the car manually, the alarm goes off and stays on even when I unlock it! Disconnected battery, reconnected and alarm ceases.
Not sure what procedure to follow in terms of re-programming keys to different CCM unit, so if anyone here has done this before, your advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

My fuel flap release has recently stopped working. I hope this is not related to all the all the work I have done in the last week. The good news is that the manual release for the fuel flap is perfectly capable of letting me put another £80 worth in.

I hear the pump running in both directions, although you need to manually open the roof by about five inches first, so it's almost certainly just a fluid issue that causes my roof problem.


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

Oh dear.

I had been pressing the wrong button, my fuel cap release works fine.


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