# Track TT **Silverstone... Pic Heavy**



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Ok, I have been lurking and loitering in this section for a while but haven't posted anything up yet as I hadn't earn my stripes on track, well, all that changed on Wednesday and its full steam ahead...

As I give all my cars women's names, I think BeTTy works well for obvious reasons!

So, I bought her at the start of the year, 96K miles and quite a long mods list from its previous owner (mk1f4n) and reads like this:

FK highsport adjustable coilovers
Super Pro fully poly bushed wishbones and top mounts
19 x 9.5 & 8.5 staggered BBS LM black and chrome replica Alloys and stretched tyres
15mm Eibach pro spacers front and rear
Genuine Audi TT Gloss Black QS front grill& rear valance
3 " stainless steel Blueflame cat back exhaust system
Neuspeed P Flo induction kit
smoked side indicators
Headlights have been colour coded and internal orange lens smoked 
all red symmetrical rears
Legal metal euro pressed plates
de badged and smoothed rear
Anodised black Pro bolt fuel cap kit
High quality alpine head unit and Bluetooth kit

and looked like this:










I have since finished polybushing the whole car, fixing a misfire issue and a few other bits and bobs as well as taking her to the TT shop for a Stage 1 remap and feeling like a different car.

Having come from a B6 Audi S4 to this I was surprised at how awful the handling was and how slow the car felt, but as I always intended to make a track car, I had to really throw her around and she if she would either be fit for purpose, or if I needed to sell her on.

This Wednesday just gone I booked an Opentrack day at Bedford on the GT circuit and it she didn't miss a beat, coolant didn't rise above 101, brakes felt a little soft but never warped or let me down, tyres on the other hand took a right hammering and after 6 laps felt like I was driving on banana skins, but I wanted to see how bad she was before throwing money at her (if at all)

































Having had a great time killing a full tank of fuel, learning how not to unsettle the car (by doing a sweet 360 spin) and recording 140 very punishing miles on a car that was unprepared for experience, I set about ordering parts, talking to my local Audi tuner Guru (Will at VRS Northampton) and today, starting the stripping process.

This is what is in the pipework (ordered and awaiting parts/booking in when they arrive)

- Brembo J Curve Front Discs
- Mintex 1166
- Goodridge Hoses
- Hi temp fluid (can't remember which, but its not the US 600 deg fahrenheit stuff)
- 2x Sparco LF II Circuit seats + mounts/runners
- 18" Rota GTRs in white
- 225/40/18 Nankang 120 NS2-Rs (thanks guys for the tips!)
- Forge Baffled sump
- New pickup pipe and all fitting accessories
- Motul oils and fluids

I am not chasing power now, its all about grip, lightening, stiffening and stopping!

Today, this happened...


















When the seats arrive, I'll be glad to get those heavy beasts out of the front!

Now I need some tips on getting all that sound deadening junk off the interior!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

If you're on standard calipers, save money and buy OEM discs. For the size they will give you the greatest metal mass and hence will heat up slower the drilled and slotted disc etc. great choice on pads though, I can't fault my Mintex pads!

Heat gun, plastic scrapers and "sticky stuff remover" are what's best for the sound deadening! See my project thread for just how good a finish you can achieve using just these 3! (Sticky stuff remover available from Lakeland for £3.99 a bottle!). If you're a tall guy then careful consideration is needed when fitting the seat to get it as low as possible (I ended up cutting the cushion in mine as with a helmet I was wedged in on the roof!).

Otherwise, great to have you here and looking forward to updates!!!

Oh AND...

GET THE 28th OFF FOR BEDFORD!!!!!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I can't mate, Ill be in Antwerp all that week, so losing one day means losing a week of work (and I need money for a half cage, harnesses and a smaller steering wheel!)

thanks for the info about the deadening, will have to buy a heat gun and will see if there is a lakeland around here - good tip. A friend did his time attack S2 when it was winter, apparently the stuff was nearly frozen and just flaked off, I can't wait that long tho.

I've already bought the discs, but good to know for replacement 8)


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## DazWaite (Dec 4, 2012)

Hi dude.....what make and model of tyres were they?

Daz


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

I'm just about to go through the whole strip down thing 

Look forward to see how you get on,


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

ESP and Haldex can stress this enough! The ESP off button is still crap, You will suffer in tight corners where the ESP says Mmmm that shouldn't be happening! I was suffering brake bind on sharp hairpins so had the steering angle sensor switched so the ESP could not make the decisions.

Hadlex, blue, powertrak or HPA Touchmotion with powertrak being $90 bucks as the yanks on here will say!

They also race roadsters now I'm damned...........

BW


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

brushwood69 said:


> They also race roadsters now I'm damned...........
> 
> BW


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

DazWaite said:


> Hi dude.....what make and model of tyres were they?
> 
> Daz


Achilles ATR Sport I believe, quite surprised at how much they could be pushed TBH, still got loads of tread left on them, they just needed longish breaks between runs


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Just seen that Opentrack have put the photos up, so here goes:


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

brushwood69 said:


> ESP and Haldex can stress this enough! The ESP off button is still crap, You will suffer in tight corners where the ESP says Mmmm that shouldn't be happening! I was suffering brake bind on sharp hairpins so had the steering angle sensor switched so the ESP could not make the decisions.
> 
> Hadlex, blue, powertrak or HPA Touchmotion with powertrak being $90 bucks as the yanks on here will say!
> 
> ...


I agree, at a certain level of driving, the ESP (even with the button off) will intrusively step in and ruin the dynamics. Fortunately, the ESP since was a post-recall afterthought, can be coded off in VCDS. This totally disables it, and it's reversible by imputing the original software code back if needed for slick or winter driving. Brushwood's idea is a slick one, but wanted to throw it out there that it's also possible to simply code ESP or even EDL off.

PS: Hey, you know people can take jabs at roadsters all they want nowadays, but 2 door, two seater, topless cars are what started the whole car racing thing. The Mazda miata roadster is the best and most raced sportscar ever produced... I think roadsters are in good shape. Cheers!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> I can't mate, Ill be in Antwerp all that week, so losing one day means losing a week of work (and I need money for a half cage, harnesses and a smaller steering wheel!)
> 
> thanks for the info about the deadening, will have to buy a heat gun and will see if there is a lakeland around here - good tip. A friend did his time attack S2 when it was winter, apparently the stuff was nearly frozen and just flaked off, I can't wait that long tho.
> 
> I've already bought the discs, but good to know for replacement 8)


That's a shame dude, but not to worry, I'm hoping to organise a lot more next year 

If not they delivery, or its on eBay, Lakeland was just the cheapest place I could find it and there's one Just up the road from where I work! As I say also, plastic scrapers from eBay mean you don't scratch the paint work, so the finish beneath looks half decent...





Those 3 pads removed and weighed come to 2kg so it's easy to see how the total weight of this stuff is gunna add up!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Wow, you could eat dinner off that thing!

There is one in Milton Keynes, so will be popping down there later, how many bottles is it worth getting?

I have also noticed in the rear quarters, where the CD multi changer sits and same opposite side is some kind of weird yellow waxy stuff, is that normal? I can't see where the hell it came from either

Also, how the hell do you get the rear bumper off and does that lack of ballast affect the rear end balance much?

Loads of questions, sorry!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I've used about 3/4 of a bottle to do those pads so far. I've got 4 in total for the whole car which I hope will be plenty!

Yeah I have the wax too, I wouldn't worry! No idea why or what it's for though!! I assume it's okay to remove it?! :lol:

Rear bumper - light units out, couple of torx screws where it meets the boot lid. A couple of 10mm bolts either side in the wheel arch area (possibly 2 torx screw underneath the diffuser too but can't remember!)

Get the ballast out, don't worry about upsetting balance, that's mumbo jumbo!! I've never seen anyone complain about having something in the boot, or a passenger upsetting the balance, and this is far less weight then a person!! :lol:

Good luck!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> I've used about 3/4 of a bottle to do those pads so far. I've got 4 in total for the whole car which I hope will be plenty!
> 
> Yeah I have the wax too, I wouldn't worry! No idea why or what it's for though!! I assume it's okay to remove it?! :lol:
> 
> ...


Thanks bud


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Some goodies started arriving today, which is exciting - and the wheels will be on the car tomorrow as Tomm is picking the old ones up on Sunday.

Nankang NS2-R 180 XL



















Rota GTR 18s



















Seats are coming from Poland despite being ordered at GSM in Nottingham, so I guess direct from the Sparco factory?










So, question, in the absence of a cage or harness bar at this stage, what do you guys recommend for harnesses (I am thinking Luke 4 point 50mm harnesses) and do I use the plate/bolt eye mounts (is it 3 plates and 3 bolts per 4-point harness?)

Thinking my next track day will be Bedford on the 10th of October - anyone fancy it?


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Will be following your build  - I need to find some seats soon grrrr

I am going for some 3" harnesses with quick release. Having been thrown around in Lee's Clio with these on I was very impressed


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

Might be worth thinking about FIA approved belts if you want to do more than trackdays.

Belts
Seats
Suits
Helmets

These are now lifed for competition use by the FIA/MSA


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

My carbon helmet is MSA approved, by not sure if I plan on racing anything, I am very competitive (spent 10 years doing MMA, competed, tournaments, the lot, but think I've had my fill of competition I think) bit I think tracking is enough for me now, ha ha

I was planning quick release aviation style harnesses.

So bolts and plates, how many do I need to buy guys?


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

http://www.ybracing.com/omp-da801f-da80 ... lours.html

Discount code MY10

comes with 4 Eyelets and only need 2 plates if using a harness bar 4 if not.

3 points are not approved for anything so can only be used for trackdays etc


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Sweet mate, thanks for that, Iight look at a harness bar. If I can find one somewhere but good to know about plates!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I just bought these harnesses:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=370834734441&globalID=EBAY-GB

6 point and FIA approved until 2020!

Will be using these plates for the lower 4 straps:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301358403216&globalID=EBAY-GB

And an currently looking to get a decent harness bar fabricated in the coming weeks for the shoulder straps!

What seats have you gone for? I'm also speaking to GSM but probably going for the Mirco RS1 or the Sparco Circuit... Decided that we want head protection due to my close proximity a cage when it's installed!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> I just bought these harnesses:
> 
> http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=370834734441&globalID=EBAY-GB
> 
> ...


My thoughts exactly on the head protection which is why I went for these:

http://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/index.php ... ductId=906

But also size, I am a big guy at 6' 4" and 100kg so waist width and depth had to feel right and a lower seating area, which again is why these felt right (I am a 36" waist) however, I tried the RS1s and although they felt nice I had better support in the Circuit IIs - my only gripe with GSM is communication has been pretty poor since ordering with my order split with part of it arriving yesterday, bits now coming from Poland and a time delay that I wasn't planning on, that aside they have been good in terms of accommodating my questions and queries so unless anything is wrong when they arrive and how they deal with it, at this stage I would recommend using them over demon tweaks.

Thanks for the info on the harnesses as well, it seems like we are all thinking in similar lines.

Regarding the harness bar, are you commissioning someone to build this? if so, how about putting together a group buy? I'd certainly be up for buying a bar that fits correctly and built for the purpose we intend, I am sure some others will be as well...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Ah seems like you were along the same lines then with regards to seats!

The Harness bar we have a close mate who I think will knock something up, got to take the car down to him and discuss the best way to do it, we have discussed joining into the B-pillar braces as an option for more rigidity. I'll keep you updated, I'm not sure about a groupbuy as its such a vital safety item that liability should anything happen needs to be considered!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

My postman hates me...


















Nick, I got the harnesses and plates from the supplier you recommended, they were super quick, thanks!

More to come...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> My postman hates me...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No worries!!!

Oooooo those seats... :twisted: Can't decide which ones i want now!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Just a heads up for anyone interested in purchasing any goods from GSM or sportsseats4u, this has been my experience:

Went for a seat fitting in the offices, driving out of my way to do so, all looked good, found seats, was told what I would need, given a print out, told timescales would be 2 days for dispatch

Went home, ordered, everything seemed fine, got the order info, after that things went wrong...

Subframes arrived separately after being told the delivery would arrive on the Friday (expecting it to be everything)

Had to chase where the rest of the stuff was, had booked the day off work and booked a garage to take in the car and fit everything

After chasing around, suffering a lack of communication from GSM, I found out the parcel was coming from Poland

Today they arrived, something was missing though... oh yes, bolts to attach everything together!

So I emailed them again explaining how unhappy I was that the order still wasn't complete and this was the response:

Thank you for your email.
Unfortunately Sparco do not supply their seats, frames or side mounts with bolts as they say they want everything to be fitted by professional tuning Garages who will have bolts.
The bolts are all standard M8 Bolts.
We usually recommend going to a local hardware store or b&q etc who will have them. But we can send out an official bolt pack for £5.00 

I would have been happy to pay for bolts at the time of ordering, but no-one thought it was important to mention to me that all of the stuff they sold to me was useless unless I had these bolts.

I was going to buy the Safety Devices bolt in cage and harnesses off them, with a view to getting the big brake upgrade later on, this was the last straw and they just lost my custom - I would advise that if anyone is looking to purchase from them in future, make sure you cover everything off beforehand and chase them to get the info you need, or failing that, stick to a company that is reliable, like Demon Tweaks - I have never had a problem with DT before and will be going back to shopping from them now.

I'd rather pay more and get the right stuff first time and be valued as a customer then go through what I have already with these guys again.

Rant over!


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

1781cc said:


> My postman hates me...


Can totally relate to you bro, my mail lady hates my guts :lol: Constantly bringing me heavy crap for the TT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

To be fair the bolts needed are standard issue and you'll pay a lot less from a bolt shop. Think i paid about 30p each for the 8 i needed.

That being said, i'm not massively impressed by their customer service either, they came across to me as very arrogant BUT they are the cheapest supplier out there that i can find for both Cage and seats. I tried Corby Motorsport to see if they would offer a discount if i ordered coilovers, cage and seats with them in one go (£2.5k order) and they wouldn't budge, which to me seems daft!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

People wonder why businesses go under in the UK sometimes, we have some shocking customer service at times and its this kind of mentality that hits them, GSM is apparently a family run business, you would think someone had attention to detail, I mean its not rocket science...

Seats - check
Subframes - check
Side Mounts - check

What could possibly be missing? hmm... lets send it to him in two separate deliveries, but not tell him, and then lets have a laugh at how he hopes to assemble them!

I can't tell you how disgusted I am with them


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

[smiley=bigcry.gif] I feel like banging my head on the wall...

I got the OMP subframes in, nice direct fit bolt on, sable side mounts in, seats in (drivers side only at this stage), all looked good, climbed in and realised that even though I had mounted them as far back as I possibly could on the subframe I am sitting onto of the steering wheel like a granny, its so uncomfortable.

So, runners from Demon Tweaks are on the way, along with allen key seat bolts (my OCD wouldn't let me use nuts! lol)

In the meantime, I took the whole carpet out carefully in one piece (word of note nick, you need to remove the footrest first and there is a hidden brown plastic 11mm nut at the back so use a long extension)

Now onto the roof lining and stereo, then dooryards off to gut and remove speakers before refitting!

I am wondering if stripping the car is more fun than the driving of it afterwards! ha ha


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So, playing with the Harness eyes before I get the plates welded in and like a kid with a pile of lego I thought I would try something...

Good idea or bad idea till the cage arrives? (in theory, 1 track day at Bedford on the 19th) or ignore and go with welding the plates in anyway? it seems like if I run them as a crossover or even straight they will be in the right position, angle looks about 45 degree to the back of the seat anyway based on the rake I will have to run for my headspace.

I know they are strong enough as they are the plates that held the seats and rear seatbelts in anyway, but is the angle right? they are screwed in so tight at the moment, no movement at all.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It'll be too much of an angle I'd say dude, I'm sure that'll end up being more than 45 degree from horizontal, especially considering how far back your seat will be?

As a guide Scroth say 20 degrees









TRS say 45 degrees


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

OK, I have sspent 4 hours trawling and reading up on harnesses and obviously the most ideal scenario is cage/harness bar mounted at 10 deg angle to the drivers shoulder and not resting on the seat (has to be resting on the shoulder or the seat could snap in an impact.

However, based on several manufacturers providing direct fit kits that use the existing mounting points in a car, and Schroth specifically provide a kit for the TT, which to all intents and purposes uses the same fixed points as I have trailed above, but in my case by direct fitment to the brackets as opposed to having a seatbelt buckle in the way, based on this, it would appear that it would be safe to use.

http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/VW_&_ ... ctions.pdf










Obviously I don't want to put myself in any harms way for the only track day I will be doing before the cage goes in (after October 10th) however, if it is safe to do this, I would rather than weld unnecessary bits of metal into a car that won't use them.

Thoughts?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I don't see a safe way to mount them into the car without a cage or harness bar personally. I'm not sure where you would weld any plates even to get the correct angles.

Personally I'm sticking with standard seat belts for my next one and I like you have them sitting here ready to install! The getting a harness bar over the winter!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Standard belts means you will be running standard seats as well then I guess?

The way I see it, and from research reading the Schroth PDF, they should all bolt in correctly, with the only plate needing a weld being one either side of the transmission tunnel for one part of the waist harness - the other being bolted into an eye that goes in the original attachment point for the seat belt retractor mechanism (which will now be removed entirely as its redundant.

I keep looking over the angles in the PDF link above and I can see that they are the same as they use the original bolt plates - I really can't see any difference to the fitment angle then from the TRS harness and the OEM equipment plug in harness.

Unless I am being stupid.

Having only done one track day with a basic car, all the improvements made before the 10th will give me a barometer of what needs doing over the winter ready for Spring.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

After loads of cursing and tons of small metal splinters (left over from drill holes where the plates went in) and I am finally able to smile as the seats are in.

They aren't the most comfortable things in the world, very tight on the waist and very tall in the car - I have about 2" of clearance between the top of my helmet and the roof, so I will be looking at taking the spacer shims out from the sliders as that will save me about 5mm more, and then play with the angles, but pedal position is good.

Getting in and out is pretty difficult (I think I mentioned I am big) so I suspect that the next mod interior wise will be an OMP wheel with a quick release hub as getting into the passenger seat by comparison is very easy



















I have looked over and over at the angles and it appears to be running at about 40 deg on the harnesses at the back. I know this isn't ideal but its within the tolerance in the leaflet provided by TRS, I am not happy about the positioning, so will be looking at that, everything feels really solid though. I can feel a half cage with a harness bar coming on very quickly!


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

They look great, HUGE but great!!  The OMP is a good idea just check sizes and knee clearance.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

brushwood69 said:


> They look great, HUGE but great!!  The OMP is a good idea just check sizes and knee clearance.


Good tip there mate, I will be measuring the stock wheel and then comparing that to some cardboard cutouts of 330mm and 300mm wheels to give me a guide on size in the car, will pop the wheel and airbag off to test it first.

I know its probably safe, but a removable steering wheel still scares me a little lol


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

my god, why is it so hard to part with good money?

Demon Tweaks are the latest to let me down with my brakes order, £515 worth... they failed to keep me updated on delays for the Brembo OE Group N discs and let it slip, 3 calls later and no success in resolving or hearing back, so I cancelled the order and have now got to find a whole new brake setup again.

Who are you guys using to supply hoses, mintex pads and discs? this is getting beyond a joke now...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

You've just saved yourself a fortune! 

I used new Pagid OEM Discs from ECP, you want solid discs for such a small Disc as you'll see on here. Mintex Pads speak to Alan at Questmead (Google that one!). He'll tell you whats what, i think you'll want Mintex M1144 MDB2041 pads though.

Not sure on line i'm afraid though, i haven't looked into this myself yet so will watch for info!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> You've just saved yourself a fortune!
> 
> I used new Pagid OEM Discs from ECP, you want solid discs for such a small Disc as you'll see on here. Mintex Pads speak to Alan at Questmead (Google that one!). He'll tell you whats what, i think you'll want Mintex M1144 MDB2041 pads though.
> 
> Not sure on line i'm afraid though, i haven't looked into this myself yet so will watch for info!


Thanks for the info, I saw VT posted about Questmead before. I won't use Pagid as I have had them on other cars before and they warp really quickly, I've gone for Bosch rears from ECP as I know Bosch make good parts. Thanks for the Mintex Part numbers tho!

I keep hovering over the buy button on the V-Maxx 330 BBK... hmmm


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

After loads of letdowns, I finally have some decent braking on the car and a new MOT.

Alan at Questmead sorted me out with Mintex pads front and rear, 710 brake fluid and some hoses that have to go back because they don't fit, so Saturday's Bedford MSV trackday will be with the original hoses :-(

to get her through the MOT I needed to solve the airbag light issue out, a quick search on here and a visit to marlin solved the first part, which is a 4.7 ohm 0.6w resistor in each of the airbag under seat slots, quick dollop from a glue gun and sorted. The passenger airbag light notifier required pulling it out of the plastic tunnels and reconnecting (I will find a solution to that properly over winter.

Finally, because I had completely removed the old seatbelt system, the airbag firing connectors on the seatbelt pulleys were coming up with an error, so I re-connected them, folded them up small, and hid them in the rear quarters so no one could see them lol

Pass, only advisory was rear hoses, but they will be replaced soon anyway so very pleased.

Semi slicks on (which I realise I never posted a pic of, and all good to go)


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

What Rims are they? size?

I wont be asking about how low?, Air ride etc etc


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking swish dude! 

What tyres did you go for in the end? When you next go out, and then after you change hoses and go out again, id be interested to know how you find the difference with braided hoses! I was planning on waiting until I change the calipers at this stage, but if you notice a massive difference I may be swayed!


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

Looking good!! Harnesses will be fine for the moment. Hoses, I bought goodridge for mine, fitted spot on.

Word of caution, oil temp! I don't think you can look at it on the ac, I think you need an obd reader, like a liquid gauge, or plumb a gauge in.

I was mapped an I was running 130 degree oil temps, so be careful keep stints fairly short, and get an oil cooler on there at some point.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

The wheels are Rota Grid GTR, 18" and come in at 9kg without tyres. I went for Nankang NS2-R on the 180 XL based on reading VTs comments and conversations he had with some guys on track about them going off later than the 120 XL

The hoses I think will make a difference in pedal feel rather than braking performance, but as she will be largely off-road till next March after Saturday I will be cracking through loads of stuff.

Forgot to mention I went for stock Brembo discs all round from ECP, I think if I need any more braking power I will go for a V-Maxx kit, but will see how it goes.

Winter To-Do list:

- Half cage
- Steel seating plates
- Braided Hoses
- Forge Baffled Sump
- Oil & Filter change + New Pickup pipe
- Adjustable rear wing
- Remove final weight, ballast, front speakers, stereo
- Remove gunky residue
- Remove arch liners
- Maybe strip-out aircon (might keep for demisting on wet track days)
- Custom panel in stereo surround for buttons (boot, petrol, etc)
- Oil pressure gauge
- Boost Gauge
- uprated SMIC
- Badger TIP
- Downpipe & Decat
- Injectors and Stage 2 map
- Some 80s audi-sport inspired graphics


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Rich196 said:


> I was mapped an I was running 130 degree oil temps, so be careful keep stints fairly short, and get an oil cooler on there at some point.


Added to list:

- Mocal oil cooler with plate


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

1781cc said:


> Rich196 said:
> 
> 
> > I was mapped an I was running 130 degree oil temps, so be careful keep stints fairly short, and get an oil cooler on there at some point.
> ...


Should be good . Love where you lots are taking these TT's. I got rid of mine as I wasnt prepared to spend what I thought I would need to make the chassis live up to my expectation. I moved to heavey RWD with lots of power, then to light RWD with enough power and having great run.

Love to passenger and see how these beasts are coming along!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Rich196 said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > Rich196 said:
> ...


Well, in the new year when I'm all sorted, feel free to pop along to a track day and I'll happily take you out


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Hopefully we can get a good group of us!

You've got quite a list going, good luck with all that. I've got an issue with my Forge Baffled sump, only just identified it, but the issue has been there for 18months so i'm waiting to see what they do about it!


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

Sounds good, im always up for a track day.

Im at donny on the 26th of this month, and Silverstone on the 16th of next month


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

What's the issue with the sump mate?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It appears there are pinholes where the welds come through. I've been losing into a drip tray about 0.5l of oil when the cars been sat for 6 months (On 2 occasions). Couldn't locate the issue for ages, then noticed at the weekend where the drips were coming from.

A bit annoying as i bought it 18 months ago but it's taken me this long to track down the leak (Not exactly the first port of call for a leak!) so i'm not sure what help i'll get... watch this space i guess!


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Oh, that's not good, would you recommend the product overall though or another option?


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It's a nice piece of kit, just not much good if it leaks! :lol:

To be honest i'm not sure what other options there are.


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Just weighed her at the same weighbridge as before and she's gone from 1440kg down to 1340kg

I'm gutted as I was hoping for more

Bumper ballast, inner arches and sticky crap is all that's left now as I took the stereo, speakers, tweeters, door card insulation and gearbox gaiters all off today :-(


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Just weighed her at the same weighbridge as before and she's gone from 1440kg down to 1340kg
> 
> I'm gutted as I was hoping for more
> 
> Bumper ballast, inner arches and sticky crap is all that's left now as I took the stereo, speakers, tweeters, door card insulation and gearbox gaiters all off today :-(


Is that with with Fuel/Driver?

This thread is good for weight saving tips...

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=458833


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nope, same fuel as before (just reserve) and my fat arse away from it.

Thanks for the link, I'll start reading


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Dude, just realised what I meant to ask, do you have any photos of what you done with the harness mounting plates for the 4 front points?

Trying to figure this out in my head but could do with pics to see what others have done


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well, as you know I am running the rear harnesses out of the original seatbelt mounting points, I spoke to Fennsport and they said the placement was fine as well as the angle, so the rears are in there - the argument being that plates won't be any tougher than what the manufacturer originally specified and NCAP tested themselves.

For the front mounting points, I used one eye in the previous seatbelt mounting point as the tread is the same, again on the basis of the above...










So in effect, the only cutting and welding that had to be done was for the central tunnel one and this is how it looks:


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Thanks for the pics, that's a great help. 

Are you not running 6 points then? I couldn't see anything for the 2 central leg strap mounts?


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

No mate, 4 point only as not planning on racing


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Ahhh i see! Didn't realise, my bad.

Is there any reason fennsport have welded the plates inside the car, not outside? I was under the impression these were welded externally, so that they spread the load on the bolt over the hole square, like this;





Not saying yours is wrong necessarily, it's just it's relying on the welds alone, not using them as belt and braces like i'd expected :?:


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

it wasn't fennsport who did the welds actually, it was my usual garage. I can't answer that question, hmmm, gonna have to do some investigating now...

I can only assume its because of the tunnel being difficult to work on as opposed to going through the floor. May have to get this changed if its not solid enough.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> it wasn't fennsport who did the welds actually, it was my usual garage. I can't answer that question, hmmm, gonna have to do some investigating now...
> 
> I can only assume its because of the tunnel being difficult to work on as opposed to going through the floor. May have to get this changed if its not solid enough.


Might be a good idea, i wouldn't normally second guess some else's work, but when it could be a safety issue it's worth asking the question!


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

bit late for tomorrow though!


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Only one solution... Don't crash!! :lol:


----------



## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

As specified by the MSA, harness spreader plates are to be placed on the underside of the car. They actually don't even need to be welded in place. They can be bonded with a suitable compound and the hole is for a small nut and bolt or rivit to prevent the plate from twisting when the eyebolt is installed. However, it is common for them to be welded in place with four 3/4" runs.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

KarlD said:


> As specified by the MSA, harness spreader plates are to be placed on the underside of the car. They actually don't even need to be welded in place. They can be bonded with a suitable compound and the hole is for a small nut and bolt or rivit to prevent the plate from twisting when the eyebolt is installed. However, it is common for them to be welded in place with four 3/4" runs.


I'm glad you cleared that up... am i allowed to bond mine?


----------



## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

Also, bolt threads should be installed as close as possible to follow the angle the harness runs at. That one that is at 90 degrees to the harness terrifies me. Use the little hole in the buckle catch and wire/split pin it as a minimum please.

These plates should be addressed before any more use if you can. I know its all ifs and buts...


----------



## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

NickG said:


> KarlD said:
> 
> 
> > As specified by the MSA, harness spreader plates are to be placed on the underside of the car. They actually don't even need to be welded in place. They can be bonded with a suitable compound and the hole is for a small nut and bolt or rivit to prevent the plate from twisting when the eyebolt is installed. However, it is common for them to be welded in place with four 3/4" runs.
> ...


No.


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Damn... I'll have to use my new found welding skills then :twisted:


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

KarlD said:


> Also, bolt threads should be installed as close as possible to follow the angle the harness runs at. That one that is at 90 degrees to the harness terrifies me. Use the little hole in the buckle catch and wire/split pin it as a minimum please.
> 
> These plates should be addressed before any more use if you can. I know its all ifs and buts...


Hi Karl, which one is at 90 degrees? I checked my harnesses at the back and they appear to be at 42 deg angle?


----------



## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

This one.

Please don't take me for trying to pick faults or be a twat - I just really don't like to see things that could be a potential danger and not say anything. How much of a a risk it is in practical terms I don't know, but its less than ideal and I'm pretty anal about stuff like that lol.

I'm not an expert nor do I try to pretend to be so take my observations and advice as you will. I read through an enormous amount of literature and such before settling on the equipment for my own car and asked the advice of people more in the know.


----------



## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

Just had a thought - in your picture the harness might not be sitting at the angle it would be if you were wearing it...


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

As karl said! Safety is important and his points are valid. I would like to see plates welding place to stop the bolts pulling through the shell on impact.

Wont matter for now, its better than stock, enjoy project is looking great!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Second track day out in the car on Saturday and it was interesting to see the differences the weight loss, tyres, brakes and seating all made, plus this time out I knew what to expect so I was considerably less nervous then I was on my first outing.

Its amazing how quickly you learn a circuit, 7 weeks ago Bedford GT was completely new to me, this time it seemed to have been ingrained in my memory and I found that I was quick straight out of the gate and knew where I was going on track.

The new tyres took about a lap and a half to really offer some decent grip, progressively coming on stronger till about lap 4 when they appeared to be at optimum, I found that 8-12 laps is the perfect amount at this circuit before things started to get a little squirmy, but all in all the new wheels/tyres and the drop in centre of gravity after having dropped the car about an inch on the coiilies made a huge difference.

Acceleration was considerably quicker as well, I only lost 100kg on the nose by way of stripping out, and I recon that I have another 50kg to come out of the car due to rear ballast, arch liners, sound deadening and a few other things - I passed a lot of cars on track this time as opposed to being one of the slowest out there, and I don't mean just on the straights, I was considerably quicker than a lot through the twisty stuff as well, particularly Porsche 996 Carerras, which I found to be surprising, they are either very hard to drive, or not as quick as they look, but one things for sure, I am glad I didn't buy one about 12 months ago when I had the chance.

So what can be improved? Brakes for sure, even with Solid OEM Brembos all round, Mintex 1144s and high boil fluid, I found that the anchors just didn't have enough bite, went progressive enough and a lot of the time I found that when fade crept in I ended up still on the pedal later and later into the apex, unsettling the car considerably, so I started moving my braking point back and it just seemed to progressively fade pushing me more and more towards the apex with my foot again on the pedal and the apex ever further away.

I see a V-Maxx upgrade looming at some point in the new year, I just don't think that this current OEM+ setup is the way to go, although when the extra weight is out and the power track insert in it might be a different beast altogether. The fact that I didn't have the front hoses on probably didn't help with feel, but because I was supplied with the wrong parts I didn't have much choice.

Some pics for you guys:
































































Surprisingly after a full day of track hammering and behaving politely, she went into limp mode with a serious misfire on the A45 whilst heading home, thinking the worst, I scanned her and there were errors all over the place, but mainly pointing to cylinder 4&#8230;

Having come from a V8 S4 (where coil packs are a consumable as frequently as oil) I swapped C4 for a new Bosch coil and cleared the codes, a quick blast and all is well again, although the secondary lambda sensor error came back (having been lesser spotted for quite some time)

Quite a few things to do this winter it seems, including driver safety/seat mounting issues/harnesses - but I have come a long way in 7 weeks with her, I wonder where she will be in 5 months?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

8-12 laps!!!

Was that the full 3+ mile circuit? That's gotta be 30-40 mins if so?

Looks like you're pushing on well though, if your anything like me I'm sure you can't wait for next year!!


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> 8-12 laps!!!
> 
> Was that the full 3+ mile circuit? That's gotta be 30-40 mins if so?
> 
> Looks like you're pushing on well though, if your anything like me I'm sure you can't wait for next year!!


Yeah, 12 was pushing it, 8 is probably optimum, I usually do the first two gradually gaining speed and pushing harder, then banzai for about 4-7, then a cool down lap or two, I found that worked best for me so I could get the temps lower as its guess work on oil until I get a gauge and a cooler, plus on my cool down laps (when clear) I do a lot of coasting into corners to drop the engine temps down quicker with softer braking.

To me it seems a recipe for disaster to go out, blast it, come in and let it all sit there stewing and warping


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's really good going mate!

Most I managed was 5 laps before i felt the car needed a rest! I think I was being conservative, but my oil pressure gauge wasn't plumbed in at the time!

I'm not convinced my cooling fans are working either, coolant temps got up to a good 105 at times!


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> That's really good going mate!
> 
> Most I managed was 5 laps before i felt the car needed a rest! I think I was being conservative, but my oil pressure gauge wasn't plumbed in at the time!
> 
> I'm not convinced my cooling fans are working either, coolant temps got up to a good 105 at times!


yeah, I backed off at 103, took it a little easy and sped up again, the way I see it is that driving slower is just as if I was driving something like an MX5 or a Clio at max but gives me time to experiment with different lines, apexes and weight transfers without trying to be as quick as possible giving the car hell


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

:lol: :lol: that's a brilliant idea... Why the hell didn't I consider slowing down for a lap or two! Doh!!

I'd like to know if there's a way to add a manual switch to the fans, as I think it could be useful as far as switching them on earlier to elongate the time taken to heat up! Wonder if that's possible!


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well, I have been looking at this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... g-additive

But you might be more interested in this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... cd-display


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

Sounds like you had a good time out. Sounds like the car is lasting well one track too. 30-40 mins is really pushing it for an changed car without major cooling mods.

Brakes are interesting. I never found mine faded. I was stock weight but was stage 2 to probably had a bit more speed to scrub off. I was running ferodo pads if I recall correctly, and rbf 600. I also found the TTRS brake ducts a great mod for little money, and made a difference.

Here is an old thread of mine on them.

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=271234&hilit=+brake

Might be worth upgrading to some better pads, if you want to save money on a BBK, something like Carbotec, Pagid rs29. They are top end pads, but are very good for not fading.

Only reason I say this as your car is light so stock brakes may well be good enough for the time being, I at a guess will find the more you get out there and gain experience the less hard you'll be on the brakes.


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## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

I wouldn't have thought 100-105 was much to worry about. If its still climbing after that though :-/


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

KarlD said:


> I wouldn't have thought 100-105 was much to worry about. If its still climbing after that though :-/


Possibly, it's difficult to keep an eye on it whilst driving. To be honest i'm sure i could have done more laps, but for the first trackday i guess taking it easy was on my mind.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Rich196 said:


> Sounds like you had a good time out. Sounds like the car is lasting well one track too. 30-40 mins is really pushing it for an changed car without major cooling mods.
> 
> Brakes are interesting. I never found mine faded. I was stock weight but was stage 2 to probably had a bit more speed to scrub off. I was running ferodo pads if I recall correctly, and rbf 600. I also found the TTRS brake ducts a great mod for little money, and made a difference.
> 
> ...


I've actually already got the TTRS bake mod, one of the first things I did with track modding in mind as I had heard good things about them. I know I keep coming back to it, but my B6 S4 brakes had so much bite and thats what I want to have on these, the S4 was a heavy car too, sitting at around 1800kg with fuel and driver but she could still hustle.

I think fade is one part of the problem, the other is bite and both combined don't inspire confidence to late brake, thanks for the pointer on Carbotec, hadn't heard of them but Pagid I knew about already (££££ though!)

I think in the main my temperature as opposed to the cars temperature was my main reason for doing some shorter runs. I don't want to track with the aircon on (I'm seriously weighing up its removal - is it complicated to do? DIY or Garage cause of the gasses?), but I also need to keep the cabin cool - I might look at a roof mounted rally style air-duct in future (similar to what the Scoobys run)


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

Hmmm the aircon. Iv never taken it out of a track car, yes it saves weight but its just a bit of fun and when your sat at Spa, and its 34 degree's your quite glad to have there trust me. 

My current car has a good feature that actually turns the AC off a WOT, so you get full power, this might be something worth looking at?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Rich196 said:


> Hmmm the aircon. Iv never taken it out of a track car, yes it saves weight but its just a bit of fun and when your sat at Spa, and its 34 degree's your quite glad to have there trust me.
> 
> My current car has a good feature that actually turns the AC off a WOT, so you get full power, this might be something worth looking at?


hmm, that sounds interesting. My only concern about the aircon removal is demisting if I end up on a wet track one day (lets face it, the UK is the most likely place for that to happen!) if I do ditch the AC I need to make sure I can get enough ventilation in without power sapping and enough demisting in case, maybe with some rainx or demist stuff inside.

First world problems eh?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Minor update for the car, major one for my comfort and safety.

I wasn't happy with the runner setup on my car as it added too much height to the frame and also reduced the amount of rake I can run on the seats, so after a lot of thought, I got one of these for the drivers seat:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... eat-mounts

And this is it installed before the seat went back in










Wow, what a difference, the lower seat part is now less angled and feels much more comfortable on my legs, my centre of gravity is lower and I have gained another inch in helmet to ceiling height, which is crucial as I wasn't comfortable with where it was it, additionally, when the half cage arrives I will have a little more space behind the back of the seat under the upper roof hatch.

Happy days!

Only pain is taking it out and refitting the runners once a year for the MOT


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Do you have a liquid gauge ? My oil temps were in the high 120's after 6 laps


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

Mine passes the MOT with fixed seats! If the car is clearly setup for motorsport there are a bunch of exceptions like steering wheels without airbags etc

BW


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

No, I don't have a liquid TT, I probably won't get one either because I have VCDS, but I do need an oil temp gauge and a cooler for sure, I dread to think what my temps were...

Good to know about the exceptions, but the MOT place I use and have for years says its essential they move, looks like I need to find a better tester :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Not a lot happening recently as I have been solving an issue with my cabriolet, but nearly through the woods now.

Started to think about tracking this year and I think I am shooting for the 4th of April at Bedford, so with that in mind I have decided to start pulling my finger out by making a list of things to do before then:

- remove ballast
- trace and strip out all redundant wiring
- remove all the bitumen and sound deadening
- install the half cage + harnesses
- remove the arch liners
- baffled sump
- new pickup pipe
- oil service and filter
- hopefully wire in a permanent video install

I started removing the bitumen the other day and found that it scrapes off very quickly with a heat gun, but even using the VT recommendation of the evostick adhesive remover its a horrible job and the fluid doesn't go very far. I don't think the 3 tins are going to last that long.

Also rather disappointingly, the bitumen reveals bare metal underneath and the OCD side of me is already hating that, so once clean, its out with a black rattle can...










I had a nice touch browsing the marketplace the other day when a brand new sealed Safety Devices Half cage came up, in black and good to go, so its in the back of the car until I get back from work abroad and I can wheel the car out of the garage and crack on.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Looking good with that list mate! It never stops, it's an addiction.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

You want to use "sticky stuff remover" for the majority of the Tar mate.

The Evostick is for the odd patch of Brown seam sealer you will find.

Underneath it should white primer/paint, it doesn't look bad at all (at least I didn't think so). Of course black rattle can will make it match all over!)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> You want to use "sticky stuff remover" for the majority of the Tar mate.
> The Evostick is for the odd patch of Brown seam sealer you will find.


Ahhh I have four bottles of that from Lakeland, good to know, I started using the evostick because I thought it was an upgrade over the SSR.

Oh well, I have strippers for days it appears. The SSR was excellent at taking the furry headlining material off the metal so will give it a go on the bitumen residue.

Thanks for the pointer... Bedford on the 4th?


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > You want to use "sticky stuff remover" for the majority of the Tar mate.
> ...


Yeah, spread that on liberally, leave for a couple of minutes, then I rubbed it about with a nail brush. Wipe it of with the blue towels and you'll be 95% there!

4th of April you say... Could be a target! I've got to get the harness bar sorted urgently!


----------



## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> The Mazda miata roadster is the best and most raced sportscar ever produced...


Although a very late reply... this really did make me chuckle... the miata (aka the Mazda MX5 in the uk/europe) is almost universally driven by people which have bought it thinking it's fast / cool, but actually drive like a middle aged woman.

over the years of owning several reasonably quick cars, not once have I EVER come across an MX5 driver that is willing to do over 60mph on any road.

Not to say they don't have the potential to be quick, but clearly it's different over there in the USA.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

few hours yesterday and today, been quite productive...

Got the boot and surrounding area stripped of bitumen and sound deadening material, good soak in Lakeside Sticky Stuff Remover got most of it off, with any final residue taken off with Evostick Adhesive Remover, as everyone else here concurs, its a horrible job and you can taste the Evostick after purely from passive inhalation - but a good strong IPA takes that away!

Incidentally, I kept all the boot sound deadening that I pulled off in a plastic bag, it weighed in at just under 3kg










Under the watchful eye of one of my cats (beans) who loves the garage and all things car related, I set to work on stripping out even more weight from the interior:





































Finally getting as light as I can go for now, but will come back to it soon and pick the looms apart (even though I pulled most of the stereo, speakers, amp, etc stuff out) but I think that will be better done with the dash out completely so I can get to all the felt behind the dash, the heated seat controls and loom, interior lighting loom and so on.

Anyone have any thoughts about suspending the HVAC controls having removed the cage surround?










Finally - and I couldn't resist, I put the rear cage in roughly to see how it will all fit, obviously I won't put it in for real until I have stripped the rest of the bitumen out and got the rattle can into action, but its good for me to have a picture of how it will all settle.










Anyone ever explored the idea of a floating rally net in the back of one of these for things like helmet carrying to the track, coil packs, VCDS cable and all the other smaller essentials for a track day? I would rather have that fixed and floating safely in the back then have a small bag or something else knocking about loosely in the rear...


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking good dude, well worthwhile removing all that stuff, I'm upto 5kg from the two front seat areas, so with your 3kg in the boot, and theoretically 2kg from the rear bench are and behind the dash, there's a good 10kg of free weight loss... And I like free!!


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Something about your cat is really intriguing. It's like he understands what you're doing and he's there helping you out making sure you don't f*** up :lol: 
Keep up the great content.


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Are you selling any of the trim you remove lol?


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Nice work. 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

tommatt90 said:


> Are you selling any of the trim you remove lol?


I tried before, but was di*ked around by A LOT of people, so this time I just took it up to the dump for recycling - sorry

Afraid there isn't much left now


----------



## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Ahh that's a shame, no worries!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

tommatt90 said:


> Ahh that's a shame, no worries!


sorry mate, I even tried to give stuff away last time and just got time wasters, not saying you would be one of them, just the way it panned out with people :?


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

tommatt90 said:


> Ahh that's a shame, no worries!


What are you in need of dude?


----------



## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

No probs bud 

After a glovebox and bootlid trim (fabric part not the plastic piece)

But condition needs to be real good, cheers


----------



## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

tommatt90 said:


> No probs bud
> 
> After a glovebox and bootlid trim (fabric part not the plastic piece)
> 
> But condition needs to be real good, cheers


I've got a black glovebox.......and door cards.

Anyway, back on topic.......Great work 1781! Once the weigh comes out you'll really feel the car wake up. 8)

VT


----------



## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

just horrible...



















I'm finding the hardest bit to get off is the sticky back of the wool stuff - SSR & Evo aren't really doing a good job of it at the moment, any tips?


----------



## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I warmed it up first with the heat gun on low, then soaked it in the sticky stuff remover. Came off fine with a scraper. I used a windscreen ice scraper.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> I warmed it up first with the heat gun on low, then soaked it in the sticky stuff remover. Came off fine with a scraper. I used a windscreen ice scraper.
> 
> VT


thanks, didn't think of heating it up - sometimes you miss the obvious things, will give it a go tomorrow

I can see how people only want to do this once on a car!


----------



## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > I warmed it up first with the heat gun on low, then soaked it in the sticky stuff remover. Came off fine with a scraper. I used a windscreen ice scraper.
> ...


Indeed. It is a truly crappy job. :?

VT


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

And how much weight savings does this give?


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

CollecTTor said:


> And how much weight savings does this give?


10kg minimum on a coupe... For virtually no cost. Has to be done.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Boot is 3kg, rear bench, arches, all footwells and transmission tunnel came in at 6.2kg, not sure about front arch stuff as dash has to come out to get to it


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Boot is 3kg, rear bench, arches, all footwells and transmission tunnel came in at 6.2kg, not sure about front arch stuff as dash has to come out to get to it


Plus a pad on the inside of each door skin.

VT


----------



## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

NickG said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > And how much weight savings does this give?
> ...


Ha. I'm good with just upping the boost. :lol: And time is money.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

A LOT of hassle for 10 kg. :?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

It depends, if I wanted a fast road car and occasional track I wouldn't have bothered but as all this car will be doing is track days I want all the speed I can find for free first, more than anything it's about reducing moving mass, making directional changes better and quicker pickup in slow corners.

I can totally see how some people wouldn't bother, it's a horrible task, but I plan on evolving the car over years so I have to suck it up only once


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

CollecTTor said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > CollecTTor said:
> ...





infidel.uk said:


> A LOT of hassle for 10 kg. :?


My Sunday's cost me nothing, so I don't mind! And for a track car, why wouldn't you remove every bit of weight possible... I repeat... It's free!!


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

I hear that nick, i know you are right too, it just seems like too much hassle.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

NickG said:


> My Sunday's cost me nothing, so I don't mind! And for a track car, why wouldn't you remove every bit of weight possible... I repeat... It's free!!


I keep hearing about different chemicals and scrapers, those aren't free. :wink: That said, more power to you, but it's called opportunity costs, give up one thing to do another. How many hours did this take? What's your average earnings per hour? Could you have purchased something that would have given similar weight savings without the time investment? I think you get the point, but if I was retired, had no wife, and nothing to do, sure...maybe. However, I work 50+ hours a week, commute a half hour each way, and have a wife and a house to maintain as well as my stable of TT's. Everything is a compromise, and I don't compete in a racing series. For my project, I've ditched a lot of weight already (ballast, speed holes in bumper supports, charcoal cannister, EVAP reservoir, CD changer all removed, 1.5lb battery, RPF1's that I'll be buying soon) but at a target of 600awhp, this particular 10kg isn't going to make that much difference either way (and yes I know it all adds up). No one is saying you shouldn't have done it, just that some of us won't be spending the time/effort.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

infidel.uk said:


> I hear that nick, i know you are right too, it just seems like too much hassle.


Yeah it is for a road car, but if you told me I could save 200kg by spending 200 hours scraping, I'd be doing it. All in, 10 hours of my time that doesn't cost me anything (aside from £15 of chemicals and a scraper) is well worth it. I've removed virtually anything you can do without, so the next step is spending money to replace items with lighter items, so your not going to get that on a £1.50/kg saved basis anywhere else!!

Definitely on a road car, even a 'fast road' car I wouldn't be bothering, but on track, where every kilo counts, you have to remove 10!! No one who is building their car purely for track will disagree with that!

I think we are all agreeing essentially anyway!

Hell I've even started going to the gym to lose weight, unfortunately it's gone the other way for me so I keep adding weight... (Insert more heat gun and scraping hours here). [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Power is great, I love watching pro drag racing on the TV, but reducing weight improves the car in every area. Handling, brakes and so on. Power alone doesn't improve lap times that's why Caterfields head up most of the multi-class club race events.

I bought the TT as a project/hobby car. Something to do other than work and maintain the house. Son's grown up, Mrs VT has her crafting, I have the TT....and before that air cooled Porsches and before that English sports cars. Pottering about for a day over the weekend is therapeutic for me, but as you say each to their own. Right now I'm cutting all the redundant studs off the inside of the thing. Got sod all to do with weight, just doing some house keeping. Good job we're all different otherwise this would be a much duller place.

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Von Twinzig said:


> Power is great, I love watching pro drag racing on the TV, but reducing weight improves the car in every area. Handling, brakes and so on. Power alone doesn't improve lap times that's why Caterfields head up most of the multi-class club race events.
> 
> I bought the TT as a project/hobby car. Something to do other than work and maintain the house. Son's grown up, Mrs VT has her crafting, I have the TT....and before that air cooled Porsches and before that English sports cars. Pottering about for a day over the weekend is therapeutic for me, but as you say each to their own. Right now I'm cutting all the redundant studs off the inside of the thing. Got sod all to do with weight, just doing some house keeping. Good job we're all different otherwise this would be a much duller place.
> 
> VT


Good house keeping and also stops consistently snagging yourself when working on the inside [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I knelt on the damn things one too many times, so off they are coming. Bugger to cut through though. Best kit so far is my reciprocating multi-tool fitted with a metal cutting blade.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I was looking at grinders on tool station today to do the same thing. What spot weld bit do you recommend?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Whilst waiting for skrewfix to deliver the grinder and millers spot weld drill piece, I set about tackling the rest of the sound deadening residue - as I will be spraying the panels black I decided to get a little more aggressive with the removal and let the SSR soak in for 30 minutes, then went out there with a few of those little metal scratchy ball scouring pads from the kitchen, my god, it rips through the residue and glue but doesn't damage the metal, once primed and sprayed, it will all be nice and smooth.










Once I had enough of that I decided to tackle the unpicking of the looms, thats a horrible job as well, especially when some of the SSR has got on the fabric tape and melted the stickiness off it, making a sticky mess. Only one casualty wire wise as I slipped and cut a green wire - ill resolder this tomorrow, then when I have removed the dash, I will continue unpicking the loom and remove all the un-used cables entirely, also reducing the airbag, seatbelt and seat cables down into a new block and dumping resistors into all of them on one quick, clean place.



















EDIT: Found a dash removal thread


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So, I have the dashboard out now - that was painful!

the airbag weighs a ton, thats certainly not going back in... but leads me onto a question, now that I have exposed the dashboard and identified all the redundant cables (interior lighting, airbags, seatbelt gibbons, radio wiring, heated seats) how do you guys go about removing these? just chopping them and pulling out, or do you code them out of the car so it doesn't throw errors? or trace all the wires back to the fusebox and so on, removing as you go? I want as much redundant cabling out as possible with as few errors as possible...

Suggestions?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Good question, one which i'd like to know the best solution to also!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Code them out or resistor everything! While you're at it, take the CCM and associated wiring out too, 10 lbs of weight saving!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Is that just with regards to the airbag stuff Max?

I assume you don't have to put resistors into the system for radio, heated seats and lighting do you?

Also do you know what size resistors for seatbelt tensioners and the passenger airbag?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> Also do you know what size resistors for seatbelt tensioners and the passenger airbag?


I used the same resistors on the seatbelt tensioners as I did the underseat cables when I had them in for the MOT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Awesome, so the two seats and seatbelts will be the same, I think I have details on the steering wheel airbag resistor somewhere... Just leaves the passenger airbag!

EDIT: Just had a thought, what about the sensors, iirc there was one under each carpet?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> Awesome, so the two seats and seatbelts will be the same, I think I have details on the steering wheel airbag resistor somewhere... Just leaves the passenger airbag!
> 
> EDIT: Just had a thought, what about the sensors, iirc there was one under each carpet?


Accelerometer ones? Leaving those in

Seat ones? They are out


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

As in you've left the one on the rear bench (is this accelerometer?) and ditched the two little ones under the seats yeah?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> As in you've left the one on the rear bench (is this accelerometer?) and ditched the two little ones under the seats yeah?


all three accelerometers I have kept mate, wasn't sure what else to do? but I thought you mean the seat plugs that detect if someone is sitting (those are gone)


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

All that guff has gone on mine including the airbag module, which means you have to get creative as the resistors do 'eff all once it's gone. :?

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> All that guff has gone on mine including the airbag module, which means you have to get creative as the resistors do 'eff all once it's gone. :?
> 
> VT


I was thinking, cut and dump, seal any ends on exposed live wires (if I haven't been able to trace them back to a connector or fuse entry), code out the airbag system entirely, thats about it?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Von Twinzig said:


> All that guff has gone on mine including the airbag module, which means you have to get creative as the resistors do 'eff all once it's gone. :?
> 
> VT


Can I trouble you to define 'creative' please?! :lol:


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > All that guff has gone on mine including the airbag module, which means you have to get creative as the resistors do 'eff all once it's gone. :?
> ...


I'm interested too!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Madmax199 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Von Twinzig said:
> ...


Me too!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

rain halts play today, so can't push the car outside and crack on with wiring or spraying the front footwell areas black, however, I did manage to primer and spray the rear boot, rear seat and quarter panels yesterday evening, having let it dry overnight, it was lovely this morning, makes a huge difference over having white exposed metal amongst all the black panels.

Anyway, with that settled, the only thing I could do was climb into the car and pull the half cage through, the unwrapping of which took longer than the fitment of the cage itself!

It all slotted in nicely, aligning perfectly with the 4 threads and two bolt holes on the rear seat floor area, the harness bar attachment bolted in solid to the rear seat back post mounting points, however, the two side holes for the B-Pillar are too big compared to the original B-pillar bolts that were there, and they didn't supply any new bolts for this area. Essentially it means the bolts are in and maybe stop the cage from moving, but the cage holes sit over the bolts, not attached by them.

I am not happy with this, so will be looking at wider bolts to make sure the cage attaches firmly in that area, although, this thing isn't going anywhere at the moment, but I won't be cutting any corners where safety is concerned!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I have to say, that does look a lot better!! Nice work dude! I know the tracks about Go not Show but...


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

The wonders of halfords satin black rattle cans!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> The wonders of halfords satin black rattle cans!


Edd China eat your heart out!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > The wonders of halfords satin black rattle cans!
> ...


Ha ha, I remember him butchering an xr3i with rattle can... the whole front end!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Final primer for the interior drying off - what to do in the meantime...










I know, ballast and rear arch removal










Its disgusting how much this weighs, furthermore, the ballast side of my car appears to be sitting much higher than the drivers side now, which will only be worse when I dump my fat ar5e in it...










I also ordered a liquid TT gauge direct from Race Diagnostics today - £155 + £7 postage, pretty sweet deal that. I was originally going to go down the route of a fixed boost gauge and an oil temp gauge, but weighing it all up with the cost of gauges, etc, I decided to go down the liquid TT route as it gives me more monitoring capabilities, given that these things chew coil packs diagnosing a misfire whilst out on track, checking error codes, etc, makes it more viable, I will get a boost gauge anyway for the second vent (passenger side) so I can leave the liquid on temps permanently.

Still in a quandary about how to rework this airbag unit and seatbelt wiring so I can get the cables out while the dash is off. Anyone have any further thoughts on how to disable the error codes/light?

Tomorrow the seat bases go back in, along with hopefully some wiring work...


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Got the bases back in today, seats on top (after dropping one and putting some serious scuffs in the side of it - DOH!) and managed to fit the harnesses to the harness bar - also adjusted all the lower harness mounting points so the rings are open horizontally, this gives maximum strength to the attaching point.










Rear looks a lot better now the seats are in, harness feels a lot better too.










So, as I am away with work for a few weeks, this was my last chance to get a load of stuff done and the weather helped a lot - I also managed to clear one of the dash vents ready for the Liquid TT when it arrives, and removed all the airbag harness from the passenger side of the car (didn't take any photos of this, its boring)

My biggest challenge now is going to be wiring, I need to find a decent auto electrician and ideally someone who can code VCDS properly so that it stops looking for certain things.

Any recommendations?


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Good progress! Did you get a chance to weigh the rear arch liners? Removed and ditched mine ages ago but didn't put them on the scales, so it would be good for the knowledge base to have an accurate figure on them. TIA!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Madmax199 said:


> Good progress! Did you get a chance to weigh the rear arch liners? Removed and ditched mine ages ago but didn't put them on the scales, so it would be good for the knowledge base to have an accurate figure on them. TIA!


no, I forgot, but they are in the garage loft so will do so in a week when I get back, I will also weight the under dash airbag for the passenger side with its harness


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Small opportunity to get out and do something today...

Fitted the liquid TT, finally I can manage oil temps, coolant, boost the lot, very impressed with it



















Also cable tied a few items up ahead of Bedford on the 4th



















One thing that is a concern is somehow I've managed to bugger up my fuel flap and it won't open, in fact, all 3 of the buttons don't work... Any pointers? All fuses and cables appear to be present and correct, what gives?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Interior light fuse. I popped mine whilst doing some work and not having any interior lights didn't know. My fuel flap didn't work either. Hoggy will be along in a minute with the fuse number.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I bet it's pesky fuse 14 again, that bloody thing blew twice already!

Thanks for heads up, mines got an aftermarket flap, thought I'd have to use an Allen key to undo all the bolts so I can get fuel in.

What are you using for monitoring temps etc? This liquid TT is amazing!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Sweet! looking good, wish the APX had an oil temp sensor as standard!

Have you managed to cable tie the light switch and climate control board up to the dash!?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> Sweet! looking good, wish the APX had an oil temp sensor as standard!
> 
> Have you managed to cable tie the light switch and climate control board up to the dash!?


Hmmm, that's weird, I think I'm APX, certainly not BAM will check that later but definitely got the oil temp registering, it's gonna make a huge difference, it will also be interesting to see the 49c temp compared to the Liquid temp and the gauge

Yup, cable ties for air on and lights, small ones on the aircon, gonna keep it that way as it makes removal and working quick, as for the light switch, I've got some 550mm cable ties from screwfix- bit bag is £12 for 100, I think they will come in handy!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That is interesting, i'd like to know as as far as i was aware the sensor wasn't on the APX hence why i steered away from a liquid (Maybe i'm thinking of another function that's on BAM but not APX?)

Cable ties for the win! I'll have to try some cable tying of my own tomorrow - Like you say, lightweight and quick to remove!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> I bet it's pesky fuse 14 again, that bloody thing blew twice already!
> 
> Thanks for heads up, mines got an aftermarket flap, thought I'd have to use an Allen key to undo all the bolts so I can get fuel in.
> 
> What are you using for monitoring temps etc? This liquid TT is amazing!


Yep #14. Popped mine a couple of times too. Annoying.

Monitoring temps? Got nothing aside from the one that always reads 90 on the dash. Was just planning to install a simple boost gauge in the vent using one of Nicks adaptors, plus an oil rad and then go waterless if I think I need to. A big red light wired to the oil pressure, now that would be useful.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

oh well, it turns out it was fuse 17 that was just plain missing - easy fix, I now have working buttons 

Not done much today other than test a few things out with the liquid TT, tidy cables and a few other things ahead of next monday so nothing is floating about in the car. She goes in on Friday for some graphics at a local company that does the graphics for the Redbull F1 car, so that should be good quality fit.

Sorry Nick, I got it wrong, I have a BAM and didn't know it...










This is the reason I got the liquid in the first place, to be able to monitor oil and coolant temps at a glance on track:










Roll on Monday, I am looking forward to this, its going to be interesting to see the difference in behaviour, in essence since my last track day I have removed a ton more weight - including the ballast, dropped the rear a little more now that the arch liners are out, got my temp monitoring situation sorted, dropped in a half cage, stripped all the bitumen and sprayed the interior.

All I need to do now is cable in my gopro rig so that the exhaust mic (chinese eBay special) is plumbed into the camera itself and the tethers are secure 8)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Awesome, spill the beans on your colour scheme then sir!!! 8)

Aghh, ok, you had me all excited that a Liquid may solve my oil temp monitoring needs! :lol:

Excited for you to see how you get on on 4th!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Guys, are the oil temperature readings registering above 90C or flatlines?


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Guys, are the oil temperature readings registering above 90C or flatlines?


Is there even an oil temp sensor on the APX/BAM's? Or is this another block 120? :lol:


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > Guys, are the oil temperature readings registering above 90C or flatlines?
> ...


I didn't think there was one, but I'm questioning what I knew about it after the posts here.


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > Guys, are the oil temperature readings registering above 90C or flatlines?
> ...


APX - no

BAM - yes.

I use this 4 way display. Was quite telling to watch on track last year as after 15-20 mins the oil was over 130 degrees.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Assuming that was before an oil cooler Matt?!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

NickG said:


> Assuming that was before an oil cooler Matt?!


Yes mate, thats why i havent done anything on track this year. Oil cooler sat in the lock up alongside new intercooler and a power steering cooler to boot. As well as a few other nice bits


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

At what point should I be heading off track to cool it down a little? My next step is oil cooler, baffled sump, new pickup pipes and service


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

1781cc said:


> At what point should I be heading off track to cool it down a little? My next step is oil cooler, baffled sump, new pickup pipes and service


Personally i was uncomfortable as soon as it went over 125 - but i am no oil expert. You will probably find Max can offer some insight. The funny thing is I must have done 25 laps with Lee in his clio and the bloody oil didnt move over about 100 and he was killing it. Really opened my eyes.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

110-115* is the most I would feel comfortable seeing sustained during track abuse on good 15w50. On more conventional non-racing oils like the 504/507 spec oils and grade you guys love over there, I would park it or do some cool down laps as soon as I see 110* on the gauge (these turn into water in these conditions).


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Matt B said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > Madmax199 said:
> ...


So where is the actual sensor on a BAM? I'm reading the Self Study Program SSP 207 that discusses how the temperature is "calculated" from the oil level sensor.


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Not being one to argue with your self study programme - but I am pretty sure it's the other way around - although I may be wrong.

They are one and the same gauge that is correct but my understanding is that the sensor actually measures temperature and then calculates oil level based on the change in temp.

Like I said it could be wrong, but it seems to make sense - especially as I find it hard to work out how that little sensor would actually be able to measure oil level given its location/orientation.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Matt B said:


> Not being one to argue with your self study programme - but I am pretty sure it's the other way around - although I may be wrong.
> 
> They are one and the same gauge that is correct but my understanding is that the sensor actually measures temperature and then calculates oil level based on the change in temp.
> 
> Like I said it could be wrong, but it seems to make sense - especially as I find it hard to work out how that little sensor would actually be able to measure oil level given its location/orientation.


From SSP 207:

"The electronically controlled measuring element
is heated up slightly for a short period of
time as a function of the momentary oil temperature
( output = high) and subsequently
cools down again ( output = low).
This process is repeated continuously.
In this case, the high times are dependent on
the oil temperature and the low times are proportional
to oil level."

The point of this is that the sensor is not a true thermocouple, it's estimating temperature based on heating and cooling times and current, similar to how the MAF estimates airflow based on cooling of the hot wire element, except it's designed to be much more accurate due to it's role in fueling and emissions. The sensor in the oil pan is intended to estimate temp and level and use those to determine service intervals. All my U.S. TT's have fixed rate service intervals of 10K miles. The SSP document does however refers to future capability of the system to calculate service interval based on oil consumption, fuel consumption, temperature of the oil, and distance covered.

More from the SSP on this:

"In the combi-instrument, the condition of the
oil in the vehicle determined by evaluating
these influencing variables, and the upper
limit values in km (max. 30,000 km) and time
(max. 2 years) until the next service are adapted
variably."

So in a nutshell, this sensor is using cool down times to estimate oil level and I'd wager that's why block 051 on the climate control always reads 90*. I had always assumed it was just a dummy switch like the oil pressure switch and wouldn't actually be set off until the oil level dropped enough to expose the tip of the sensor, similar to the coolant reservoir level sensor. Unless there's a specific block in the BAM ECU that clearly labels and displays a temperature that changes, ie not 90* constant once warm, then I wouldn't really trust this as a true "oil temp sensor." Can someone with a Liquid verify that oil temps actually fluctuate on a BAM? And is this capability not present on your APX engines?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the info mate, something to investigate further for sure, incidentally today is the first time I've driven her properly since October end and kept it on the oil temp gauge while I did, variances were nothing on startup, peaked at 98 and moved all around 84-89 at various points.

Off the oil topic, I got the car back having had part of my graphics fitted - inspired by Frank Beila's touring car exploits in the BTCC (I'd have gone red rings if I'd have had a silver car) but I'm going full monochrome on this:


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

on my car this would always be between 98 and 104 when daily driving the car. Maybe up to 110 after some B road blitzing - but at bedford autodrome it didn't take long to get over 130ish.

If you ask the guy who made the liquid TT or look at some of the literature it will tell you that oil temp function doesn't work on APX for the simple reason it doesn't have this sensor in the pan. You can check this by looking at APX versus Bam pan

To be fair it's probably not going to be calibrated to any known standards and I don't really care if 99 degrees is really 87 degrees or the 130 was really 123 degrees , but for me it told me exactly what I suspected - that the TT needs an oil cooler.


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

1781cc said:


> Thanks for the info mate, something to investigate further for sure, incidentally today is the first time I've driven her properly since October end and kept it on the oil temp gauge while I did, variances were nothing on startup, peaked at 98 and moved all around 84-89 at various points.
> 
> Off the oil topic, I got the car back having had part of my graphics fitted - inspired by Frank Beila's touring car exploits in the BTCC (I'd have gone red rings if I'd have had a silver car) but I'm going full monochrome on this:


Do like your slags new wheels


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Matt B said:


> but for me it told me exactly what I suspected - that the TT needs an oil cooler.


No argument there. [smiley=cheers.gif] So the values actually change and reflect accurate dynamics of oil temps, but only on BAM. Is there a comparable block in VAG COM that shows the same readings?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Massive oil cooler, baffled sump, racing fluids are next after Monday's track session, it's all ££ and time, 100% pleased I got most of the free stuff done first


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Massive oil cooler, baffled sump, racing fluids are next *after Monday's track session*


Windows down, Econ on, Defrost on full heat, full speed.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Massive oil cooler, baffled sump, racing fluids are next after Monday's track session, it's all ££ and time, 100% pleased I got most of the free stuff done first


Wonder if we could look at a mini group but for oil coolers?



1781cc said:


> Thanks for the info mate, something to investigate further for sure, incidentally today is the first time I've driven her properly since October end and kept it on the oil temp gauge while I did, variances were nothing on startup, peaked at 98 and moved all around 84-89 at various points.
> 
> Off the oil topic, I got the car back having had part of my graphics fitted - inspired by Frank Beila's touring car exploits in the BTCC (I'd have gone red rings if I'd have had a silver car) but I'm going full monochrome on this:


Awesome, looking "because racecar!" Love it!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks guys, love the wheels, love the graphics

I've not driven her in 5 months, I picked up the S8 in that time, I now have super refinement in one and super raw in the other, I can't wait to get all the functional stuff done, then finally get some power onboard, it's gonna be a good year for the TT


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

NickG said:


> Wonder if we could look at a mini group but for oil coolers?


Put me on that list Nick, but I want a complete kit, not just the rad.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Me too for a group buy, full kit - good sized one that I won't outgrow


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I had a search for half hour last night, but I'm struggling to find a made to measure kit!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

I am pretty sure Lee could make up some kits for you guys. Will ask him when he is back.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Spent a few hours outside after the F1 today - applied a few more stickers, gave her a really good clean, checked all fluids, nuts, got my tools sorted, last checks ahead of Bedford tomorrow - really excited.

Had to do some pictures for my Adrian Flux agreed value, so thought I would post them here anyway:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Damnit, just noticed the soap suds in the rear honeycomb grille... [smiley=argue.gif]


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Looking good...minus the suds. 8)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking pretty sweet!! Go pro on the front, brave, I might have to try that!

Good luck for tomorrow dude, hope the weather stays nice!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Go pro mounts on lower front, windscreen top, under rear view and passenger wing, all fixed points with additional tether straps to doubly secure, also have the mic adaptor plugged in to a rear mounted stereo mic to pic up the exhaust sound

It'll be the first time driving without the ballast, and probably first in the rain with the nankangs- eekkk


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Nice. See that number on the doors....be careful, at one time displaying racing numbers on a road car was unlawful. You might want to check before venturing onto the road. Not sure if it actually constitutes a racing number, but hey.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the tip VT, I'll pop some black electrical tape through it to be safe but I see minis and herbie replica coloured beetles with them on, but all it takes is a cop starting a shift after a bad nights sleep...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

And there was me thinking VT had gone all superstitious! :lol:

I know on the entry forms I have read so far they all clearly state race numbers must not be applied whilst in transit. Very strange rule of you ask me!


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

MSA Rule as Insurance companies can and will invalidate insurance if deemed competing on the road. OK for beetles dressed up as herbies but full on competition cars is a no no and I get pulled up when leaving events by the stewards to remind me if I have not put a line through!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yup, it's boll*cks for the road, not issues, just researched it and it applies to MSA rules, a lot of manufacturers are selling cars with numbers on, so seems to be ok for a non competition vehicle, track days aren't timed and competitive after all


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Yup, it's boll*cks for the road, not issues, just researched it and it applies to MSA rules, a lot of manufacturers are selling cars with numbers on, so seems to be ok for a non competition vehicle, track days aren't timed and competitive after all


Cool. Worth a check, especially now you're sporting those subtle rings 

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I agree, I'm pleased you mentioned it, worth knowing for sure, don't want grey areas

Changing subject, what are these NS2Rs like in the rain? Anyone had the pleasure?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Changing subject, what are these NS2Rs like in the rain? Anyone had the pleasure?


Great. Did a wet, as in peeing down, morning at Snett. I was one of only a handful out and making progress. On the road, no issues either.

VT


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

Yep as VT said I raced mine last year in the wet and the acceleration and braking was not far off dry times you just have to calibrate your mind to believe in them!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the tips guys, Bedford was dry today until about lunchtime then went pear shaped weather wise with serious rainfall, still we ventured out (I saw we - I shared my car with my brother today for his first ever taste of track action and he loved it)

Initially the car was pretty progressive in the wet and I was able to blast past a lot of machinery, but some dic*head in a Porsche Carrera 4S decided that he would jump out of the way to let me pass, but right into my path forced me to take emergency action, lost traction at the front, so then the rear kicked in and that was it, we were spinning... didn't hit anything, but the Haldex 4WD system isn't predictable at all in changeable or wet conditions, its downright dangerous.

Its definitely something I will be looking at with moving forward by getting the power track insert fitted, I'll also be looking to get the car professionally setup and counterweighted as I am sure its all over the place now since stripping out the excess chaff.

Few things to do to the car moving forward:

Fix the cylinder 3 misfire that once again reared its head and cut short my running today, last time it cut me short at 4:30 and a coil pack change when home fixed it, this time it was the same cylinder so I know the coil pack is fine, must be plug, lead or injector - I am guessing plug, so going to put all new coils and plugs in the car and keep the others as spares

Brake upgrade is a must, the setup I have at the moment just doesn't cut the mustard, I am all over the brakes hard and the fade grows pretty quickly, the juddering and noise is also less than confidence inspiring, so it'll probably be the last on my immediate list, but I feel a VMAXX BBK coming on soon

Oil cooler, I didn't get above 128 today, average was about 122-124 before I backed off a little, but baffled sump will be done soon, so quality oil and cooler will go in.

Temp wise, the coolant didn't go above 102 all day today, mainly because it was a much cooler day and the rain also helped (in the wet the oil didn't go above 110 and the coolant as about 95)

a fun day, a few mistakes, one scare (too much kerb put me into a huge spin at the chicane on the back straight in pouring rain and right into the field, probably a 720 degree all in spin - amusing the marshall but no one else was witness)

Huge potential in the TT, traction needs sorting, brakes need sorting and not much else car wise, then its driver sorting!

VT, I bumped into someone who was in his Puma today, asked me if I was you as he's spoken to you a few times on impact bumpers? anyway, seemed like a nice guy, think he runs an air-cooled porker.

Nick, longest run I did was 28 minutes, pretty much flat out, bar a cooling lap about 3/4 of the way through, cold day today though so I really don't expect that in the summer - tyres held up well, but I have the hard compound NS2-Rs


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

You will have poor braking and fading with any setup you throw at a the car if you're running the Mintex 1144 pad in your sig. Even the 1155 is a low entry level pad and not suited for any serious braking with a 0.4 CF up to 700 C. So, before blaming the standard brake hardware you need at least track-worthy pads (something in the 0.6-0.7 or CF and capable of handling 1,000 C).

For your use, XP12 at the minimum if you use one pad street/track -- or XP20 for serious braking (that's what I run for track use and I daily/sprint on XP12).

http://www.carbotech-europe.com/compounds.htm


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for Carbotech pointer, what's the CF stand for? Carbon friction or something? I only went with the minted 1144 based on recommendations here, they were fine second track day but as I lean on them more now as my confidence grows they just haven't been effective enough

What does a set of XP20 come in at $ wise?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Sounds like an epic day still, fair play for getting back out there and spinning again! :lol:

I'm not looking forward to my first spin at all, in a way it would be good to get it over with, not my head, every spin results in a roll... In reality I know it's very unlikely!!

Interesting regarding the brakes, if you find a carbotech dealer in the UK then something to look at. Max does rave about them!


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Thanks for Carbotech pointer, what's the CF stand for?


Coefficient of friction. The higher the number, the more the friction the pad generates. That said, you've unfortunately fallen to victim of advice from people who don't know. I've been a victim as well. If they aren't tracking their car, how would they know what pads are good for a TT for track duty? Even with pads that Max described as a death wish on track, Hawk HP+, I glazed them but didn't get fade unless I was really pushing it for a few laps continuous on a short, technical track, and even then only got fade towards the end of the afternoon on a warm day. Like Max said, you will get fade with crap pads, but now you know.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I watched the footage back on both spins and its not as bad as it was in my head, it turns out I only did a 360 not a 720, little disappointed in that, in my head it was an EPIC spin, I can see where I went wrong on the second one though.

Interestingly, on both occasions I am straight back on the throttle hard and going again


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for Carbotech pointer, what's the CF stand for?
> ...


yup, but to be fair, thats what these forums are for, we have to share experiences and learn to make our own judgements based on the results, the minted have served me well enough, certainly better than stock, but my driving now is different to then, and in that respect, everything has its lifespan, these are pretty much done for me now.

Both VT and Nick have run Mintex before and got on ok at the time they did, VMAX now on VTs - Nick, what are you running?

CF - thanks for the explanation


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

1781cc said:


> Thanks for Carbotech pointer, what's the CF stand for? Carbon friction or something? I only went with the minted 1144 based on recommendations here, they were fine second track day but as I lean on them more now as my confidence grows they just haven't been effective enough
> 
> What does a set of XP20 come in at $ wise?


CF is coefficient of friction (how grabby the compound is). I always get turned upside down when people suggest Mintex 1144, Hawk HP+, Ferodo DS2500, and EBC yellow for track pads. You need to either be driving like the Queen is in the back seat, or be a kamikaze on a one-way death wish to seriously considering having these around the track.

US MSRP on the carbotech lineup:


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

And a little more info..


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > 1781cc said:
> ...


I'm on the M1144's they served me well first time out - But this was my first time out. I'll crack on with them to start the year and see how i get on i guess, if (When) i outgrow them Carbotechs are certainly going to be looked at. I do have a set of Boxster Brembos waiting to go on, but i'm probably going to do that over winter, so i'll see what happens first, either a outgrow the M1144's after a day or two this year, in which case i'll go for some OEM caliper carbotechs OR they'll last til winter and i'll go for carbotechs on the new calipers!

Heres some info i found on Mintex and Pagids, the pagids certainly seem to be up there with the carbotechs;

Mintex M1144
Cold 0.44
At 100°C 0.45
At 300°C 0.46
Max 0.46
Constant working temperature 100 - 500°C
Max temperature for short period only 500°C

Mintex F6R
Cold 0.28
At 100°C 0.28
At 300°C 0.28
Max 0.40
Constant working temperature 100-800°C
Max temperature for short period only 800°C

Pagid RS14 
Cold 0.44
At 100°C 0.47
At 300°C 0.49
Max 0.54
Constant working temperature 400 - 800°C
Max temperature for short period only 800°C

Pagid RS 15
Cold 0.50
At 100°C 0.57
At 300°C 0.54
Max 0.62
Constant working temperature 400 - 800°C
 Max temperature for short period only	900°C


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> And a little more info..


Nice, I have not seen this chart of the Carbotech's lineup before. Stealing this for my brake reference folder. Good stuff Adam, as I said, you want .6-up CF and a 1,000 C to be comfortable tracking at above-novice driving level -- I can't even track my car on XP12s anymore (last time I tried I was lucky I didn't total the car at NJMP), and XP20s are the minimum for how I push and how hard I am on the brakes with LFB. 
[smiley=book2.gif]


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

So mate, when do we get to see this footage, spins and all?!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well I'm snowed with work at the moment but hopefully I can get some editing done at the weekend. I am also considering some form of telemetry setup where I can watch back what I'm doing and where I am going wrong

Defo get a front bumper mounted GoPro- the footage is great


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's cool! I have an app for telemetry called track addict, I might try and use to that to record the pedals and stick th go pro on the front then like you say! There's a decent programme called race render also for combining videos and telemetry!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

NickG said:


> That's cool! I have an app for telemetry called track addict, I might try and use to that to record the pedals and stick th go pro on the front then like you say! There's a decent programme called race render also for combining videos and telemetry!


Track addict is great, love it. Race render is nice too!


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > That's cool! I have an app for telemetry called track addict, I might try and use to that to record the pedals and stick th go pro on the front then like you say! There's a decent programme called race render also for combining videos and telemetry!
> ...


Race Chrono will sync up with Torque data output and the internal camera on your phone. I haven't used it yet, but plan to for my next HPDE.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the telemetry info - will start researching those this weekend 

I didn't seem to get spotted by the MSV photographer this time out, so only got 3 pics of the day, shame, but here goes:


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking swish dude! Love it! 8)

What did you find better, up high or down low with the GoPro?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> Looking swish dude! Love it! 8)
> What did you find better, up high or down low with the GoPro?


Cheers bud, its difficult to know whats best, low is great for that Gran Turismo feel, but doesn't give you a huge point of reference, up high is ok for seeing where you are at on track but you lose the sense of speed you get from the low mount.

When my brother and I did the crumble rally in my cabriolet a few years back we mounted the Go Pro on the passenger wing, footage was great, I created the mounting point but forgot to use it on Monday.

My plan is to edit it all together into something memorable after studying the footage


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's pretty cool, definitely got to experiment!

What are you using to edit software wise? I've made a few videos with Magix video software and found it really easy to use and love the finished products!


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Whats up with the front bumper? Stone chips or just dirt?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> Whats up with the front bumper? Stone chips or just dirt?


A mini decided to let go of all its internals down the back straight, so they put sand and some white powder down, it covered the car in spray!



NickG said:


> What are you using to edit software wise? I've made a few videos with Magix video software and found it really easy to use and love the finished products!


I use Premiere Pro, but I'm a graphic designer/photographer by trade so I am all tied into the Adobe Suites, they do work really well to be fair.

If you drop me a PM with your email address, I will send you a video from the crumble via wetransfer, it shows the wing mounted footage (same camera I still have) but at 1080 50fps with the Prodigy soundtrack (hence I can't upload to youtube)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

WOW thats some epic footage!

I love the speed of the one down low, but the view up top is much better! The only thing it doesn't give scope for is tethering it.... How reliable are those 3M sticky pads?

Loved the spin too, straight back on it after **Thumbs up***

I wanted to try Premier, but didn't want to pay the premier prices! :lol: In the end i done it the naughty way for Magix [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> WOW thats some epic footage!
> 
> I love the speed of the one down low, but the view up top is much better! The only thing it doesn't give scope for is tethering it.... How reliable are those 3M sticky pads?
> 
> Loved the spin too, straight back on it after **Thumbs up***


Go Pro's are amazing, I am going to invest in another couple of Hero 3+ Blacks as I don't need much more and they are staring to become cheap on eBay used.

Going to go for a permanent rear and a permanent wing, then alternate the front bumper/windscreen as and when.

I use these for all mounts:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-Buckle-T ... SwpzdWqyaQ

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pcs-Flat-Cur ... Sw3xJVfMDp

We covered 3,000 miles in 6 days in all weathers on the Crumball, I've also done about 300 miles with the TT with these (last time inside the car) and never lost one, the tethers are a security blanket


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Cheers for the links, they've been added to the every increasing 'watch list' :lol:

I have a Toshiba X-sports which is great for the money, 1080p at 60fps, the only downside is the size - twice as big as a GoPro. Some chaps on the Facebook forum have posted some videos taken from their £40 amazon action cameras which for the price was really impressive! I was considering these for the outside, just in-case they do fly off!

Back to Telemetry, one thing i've realised is i'm going to be massively restricted by my iPhone storage size - I can't clear much more then 1.5GB of room, which will only allow about 15mins of footage :? Not sure what to do about that really, i dont know what else can be used to get GPS signal other then a phone!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > Whats up with the front bumper? Stone chips or just dirt?
> ...


For some reason i can't get either video to work after about 2 minutes in! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So the cutting of my track time on Monday due to the misfire was a pain, but I spent some time today pulling her apart and it appears to be oil getting into the coilpacks- not quite down to the spark plug tips themselves but nearly, pretty gross:




























Got all new iridium plugs, gapped to run colder as she's chipped and shoved all new Bosch coilpacks in with new spark and rocker gaskets, reassembled and it looks like no one has been in



















Gave a blast down the road once oil was up to temp, pulled 1550 mbar on the liquid, no codes - all is well and I have the old ones as spares as I'm sure oil was the problem not failure

Best to change to be safe

I'm seriously thinking of stripping all this pile of pipes and hoses down, it's like the back of a washing machine in there - any guides and recommendations out there on what to pull? I know of the SAI and carbon canister, what else?


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## Morbs320i (Sep 20, 2015)

Really interesting threads, Watched your videos a couple of times, that's seriously quick, the way your reeling the other cars in!
I've done a few track days at bedford in my standard 225 and those videos really show how Audi should have given it more power and better handling from day 1...

You've got me thinking of at least getting a re-map now!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Nice little update!

You can bypass the n249 system (the reservoir and spaghetti of pipes on top of the engine) it's very easy and removes a lot of clutter! If you're on a BAM I don't think you'll have an SAI though? Could be wrong.

I'd like to know how to do the carbon canister delete too!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

NickG said:


> Nice little update!
> 
> You can bypass the n249 system (the reservoir and spaghetti of pipes on top of the engine) it's very easy and removes a lot of clutter! If you're on a BAM I don't think you'll have an SAI though? Could be wrong.
> 
> I'd like to know how to do the carbon canister delete too!


I've removed all this guff. Not difficult. Carbon canister just meant routing the breather pipes down through the wheel arch. I removed the water pipes too and plumbed in a new hose between the rad and the header tank and clipped it back to the bulkhead with some P clips.

VT


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## UR_TT (Nov 8, 2008)

Have the same job to do. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Wanted to change my sparks and found exactly what you have, oil topside of sparks. Asked my friend (chief mech) at an vag dealership up here in the north. And valvecover gasket is almost a std "change item" for them nowdays as the 1,8t is getting older. 
Any tricky things to be aware of? Since you already did the job?

//U


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Morbs320i said:


> Really interesting threads, Watched your videos a couple of times, that's seriously quick, the way your reeling the other cars in!
> 
> You've got me thinking of at least getting a re-map now!


Cheers bud, I'll be putting all the videos up soon, with spins and so on so everyone can have a laugh at my expense!

Power wise, the car has a remap, exhaust and filter, on the liquid (which is mathematical based on the MAF, its running 250bhp) but its lighter than stock, so that helps. I plan to be mid 350 bhp and flexible torque curve when I am done. but that involves internal work.



UR_TT said:


> Any tricky things to be aware of? Since you already did the job?


Yes, remembering where all the bloody pipes go back after! its a really simple job, time will tell if I have done it right, but make sure you have the parts ready to go before you start.



Von Twinzig said:


> I've removed all this guff. Not difficult. Carbon canister just meant routing the breather pipes down through the wheel arch. I removed the water pipes too and plumbed in a new hose between the rad and the header tank and clipped it back to the bulkhead with some P clips.


I read your thread quite a lot, I see you have posted some stuff up and I saw you had posted a link somewhere else about the carbon canister delete - any tips, its all a jumble under there, I'm so-so mechanically minded, part of the reason I went with the TT is so I can learn more about mechanics as I go, tinkering on my cab is easy as its a , tinkering on this is a little messier being turbo'd


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

1781cc said:


> So the cutting of my track time on Monday due to the misfire was a pain, but I spent some time today pulling her apart and it appears to be oil getting into the coilpacks- not quite down to the spark plug tips themselves but nearly, pretty gross:
> 
> Got all new iridium plugs, gapped to run colder as she's chipped and shoved all new Bosch coilpacks in with new spark and rocker gaskets, reassembled and it looks like no one has been in
> 
> ...


Looked like a job for "the gadget" 

I gave a little extra torque on the nuts ,maybe 11-12nm and tightened middle ones first.If I get an oil leak(again) at the edge it wouldnt be too bad but plug well leaks look nasty.
Havent started the engine yet,am onto inlet gasket and maybe matching the port holes with a bit of grinding,Ill do it over the weekend as the injector seals havent arrived yet.

Can you do colour visualisations on the TT man? like 
http://carvisualizer.plus360degrees.com/
They only have s3 or 350z


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > I've removed all this guff. Not difficult. Carbon canister just meant routing the breather pipes down through the wheel arch. I removed the water pipes too and plumbed in a new hose between the rad and the header tank and clipped it back to the bulkhead with some P clips.
> ...


Nothing really complicated. Pretty straightforward as I remember it.

There must be a load of other stuff that can still come out. I was talking to a proper race winning mechanic spannering for one of the guys I know in the race series. Looking in the engine bay of the class winning car he'd built there was eff all to see. Stripped out and really clean. When I asked him about it his response was.."If something goes wrong it's either (pointing) that, that or that." First time I took all the plastic crap off my engine it looked the engine room of a type 47 destroyer! 

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Finally got round to sorting the videos out - didn't record every stint and I can't remember which videos are my brother driving and which ones are me, although I am sure you can tell by the lines taken as it was his first time on track and he wasn't riding the curbs and edge to edge quite as much as I do.

EDIT ** just spoke to him, he was at the wheel during run #2 **

Some interesting stuff in there...

Failed R8 V10 chasing
Porsche 996 C4 pulling over to let me pass at a hairpin, making me miss my line and spin
Nice wet spin down the back straight
Cool arse out action from an Austin Healey (he later spun out completely following me after I passed - he said he's racing this weekend at Silverstone I believe)
One seriously fast Lotus!

As a guide if you are ever driving this circuit, its about a 3:20 lap time

Check em out:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... 85qOvT1-Zu


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Just had a chance to watch! Some good runs in session 5! I'm sure I clocked you make a 3:05-3:06 lap in there??

My best (from reviewing my footage) was a 3:10 or 3:11 if I remember.

Love the bumper mounted camera angle, soo cool and soooo fast!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thats pretty quick then considering I'm only running 250hp on the liquid - I definitely need more power, sometimes I get dropped at the straights which is frustrating as I then catch cars up in the corners but can't pass, it happened to me with an M3 last time out.

There were three other TT owners on track through the day, a silver one with black wheels who knew how to drive, and then both a silver one and a black one that didn't and kept holding people up, in video 5 I am particularly aggressive in getting past him :evil:

Gives TT drivers a bad name, must have been fixing his hair in there...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

MOAR power is always a requirement! I start to run out of puff from about 120mph so on that back straight at Bedford its noticeable... most other straights are ok though - Running somewhere around 300-315bhp.

Can't wait to get back out this year and improve, i'm still well in the "Can't drive" category, but then only 1 trackday under my belt so far! :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> MOAR power is always a requirement! I start to run out of puff from about 120mph so on that back straight at Bedford its noticeable... most other straights are ok though - Running somewhere around 300-315bhp.
> 
> Can't wait to get back out this year and improve, i'm still well in the "Can't drive" category, but then only 1 trackday under my belt so far! :lol:


I don't know mate, driving doesn't look to bad to me based on your videos - I think you'll find you will be much quicker this time out with all the changes you have made, I hit 127mph on the back straight before the chicane midway, if you were running out of puff then before at 120mph with 300+ bhp then I would expect you to be well into the 130s next time.

Must as people deride bedford as a track, its a great venue to test your car improvements, its fast and its flowing, I think you will be surprised next time as you had a lot of the interior in last time [smiley=dude.gif]


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Cheers dude, i plan to get a few lessons this year to hopefully improve.

Ah no i hit about 130-135, but after 120 it just doesn't shift as quick if you know what i mean, acceleration slows down :lol: I did take a ride out last night with the new N75 and with all that weight lost, man does she pick up speed fast now 

When are you looking for the next day then?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Not sure, its a nightmare period for me at the moment with work so gaps are small, plus its locations vs. cost - silverstone and rockingham are above £200, snetterton will be at VTs day (if work allows, still TBC), so thinking maybe brands hatch or somewhere else, but its likely to not be until June end / July time at this rate and thats gutting!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Bank holiday Monday 1st August at Bedford to, if like me your struggling to find the time to not work! :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So with an ever growing list of stuff to get done and no time free to do it because of work commitments, I bit the bullet and checked her in to VRS in Northampton for some fettling and general maintenance, tlc and so on as I know she needed a few pair of eyes from a professional company as well.

Work undertaken:

- Haldex service, new oil, filter, gaskets and a circlip YHW PowerTrack insert
- Power steering was goaning and had a leak, replacement pump, pipes and new fluid
- 19 Row Mocal oil cooler, Thermostatic housing, push zinc fittings, werth clips, hoses
- Goodridge braided hoses all round, new high boil fluid, bleed, bed, bleed again
- Forge motorsport fully baffled sump, new gasket, Millers Nano-drive oil, K&N high flow filter, new pickup pipe
- Reset service light indicator


----------



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Very nice!!

It seems I am behind on the oil cooler front... Not a great place to be!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Hmm....baffled sump. This has to be a good thing I'm thinking.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good blast home - 76 deg on the oil temps, now thats what I am talking about!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

well, today was meant to be a fun day, booked spur of the moment to fill in for Nick and blast the newly equipped track slag around Rockingham, in the end it was a complete f**king abortion...

The day started well enough, I got up early, shower, dressed and last minute fluid checks (car not mine) - set off two Rockingham and had no traffic on the way, got there early so grabbed a coffee and breakfast. Considering I had no info on the track day itself from David at Opentrack I knew that if I made my way there I could get in and speak to them once they were setup.

Pre-briefing I decided to mount the GoPro in its "action mode" front bumper mount and noticed some fluid on the floor - finger checked and it was oil! pulled the lower grills out and noticed that the oil cooler was completely splattered and the whole under tray was soaking, but the hose connectors themselves appeared to be solid still. I checked as much as I could but couldn't find a solution short of having the front bumper, wheels and everything off - I had the tools with me but no jack!





































I didn't risk the briefing and as it was before 9am, so I set off back to the garage (VRS Northampton) to get it sorted. They took her in immediately, checked her over, fixed the problem (a seal somewhere - can't remember now as my day got worse) and cleaned her up. By this point it was 11:20 and I had written the day off, but driving home she felt good, so I changed my mind, about turned and headed over to Rockingham once again.

This time, about 2 miles from the circuit the red battery light on the dash started flashing and then in sort order after, the orange DIS battery graphic came up... FFS! thinking it was a loose connection, I turned her off, popped the hood, checked all connections and fuses and everything was ok. Couldn't start her though, but as I had pulled over on a hill in a quiet industrial area, I bump started her in reverse - got her going again, spoke to the garage again and they said bring her in...

5 miles down the road I could feel the fuel pump cutting out, no revs or speed on the dash, the motion was causing her to bump again abut starving because of a lack of power to the system to feed the fuel pump.

Clearly the alternator must have packed up last track day and as she had been on trickle charge in the garage, the battery was full, todays shenanigans had depleted the battery with the 140 miles I had done (not on the circuit) and she packed up on the A43 towards Kettering.










To make matters worse, I had no data signal on my phone, barely able to make calls, by this point 20% battery on my phone and the heavens opened, drenching me because the window was open when the battery died!










Quick call the to AA, 45 minutes and Patrol turned up, confirmed the alternator death, chucked a battery on and followed me to the garage - this isn't my first AA experience, but I can never speak highly enough of them, they are superstars - and even though I was with helmet, near Rockingham and in my suit, they didn't bat an eyelid and took care of me!

Once at VRS, they replaced the alternator, confirmed the clutch on the old one had expired so she was just draining and bolted her back up. They offered the buy me another track day to compensate for the issues with the oil that shouldn't have happened in the first place, but I would need to pay for the alternator replacement/fitting or just call the two evens and be done with it - which is what I went for as by this point I just wanted to get home and hit the IPA.

So, all in a frustrating day, but its flagged up two issues that would have been a nightmare on track when I would have been unable to deal with it and they are rectified now. Yes at the expense of a day out at Rockingham, but at least the damage overall was negligible, unlike the 997 Porsche that managed to write itself off on its second lap, closing the circuit for an hour just before lunch.

I only know this because VRS were looking after the Marcos that was testing up there today ahead of the Silverstone Classic.

My damage was time and wallet, the 997 driver had a much worse day and hopefully his damage was purely car related.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Man what a S*** day!!! Im sorry you appear to have inherited my luck as well as the trackday dude!! [smiley=bomb.gif]

Glad you got her sorted again, touch wood it's pain free motoring going forward for a while... Onto the next one, which is...?


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Mega bums, mate. Not good. Still, at least it's all sorted now. :?

And my 1st thought was... surely he's not attached the oil cooler hoses with zip ties?!?1  No, 'course not.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks guys, the wife thinks it was "divine intervention" or something and that I was just not destined to drive today at rockingham for some reason.

I'm eyeballing the 1st August at Bedford, javelin day, ideally I wanted to explore other venues but it's close date wise, and closer distance wise so it might be safest as a shakedown there.

:-(


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Oh dear. Rockingham. 'Nuff said. :?

Surprised the guys who installed the cooler didn't run it fully up to temperature before bolting the front back on and then road testing it properly before handing it back to you.

Been in a similar spot myself. Actually on that day, after a few laps the fire tender followed me into the pits, convinced I was on fire, turned out to be hot oil leaking from the rocker covers and dripping onto the heat exchangers. Plenty of white smoke billowing from the rear of a 911 looks interesting lol:

Chalk it up to experience.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So you switched the 007 smoke button on by mistake... Amazing how a little of oil goes a long way. Changing a rocker cover gasket on a 911 must be fun with how it's packed into the arse of those things, always looks like the back of a washing machine to me, gorgeous cars tho.

The garage were testing it at temp the day I picked it up, but there's a difference between a sort test up to temp and a blast up the A43 under heavy pressure load, it's just one of those things, it did show that I need the bring a few more tools, have a better plan for doing track days, but it's all good, onwards and upwards, at least I know the alternator is sorted and oil temps won't be a problem moving forward


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> So you switched the 007 smoke button on by mistake... Amazing how a little of oil goes a long way. Changing a rocker cover gasket on a 911 must be fun with how it's packed into the arse of those things, always looks like the back of a washing machine to me, gorgeous cars tho.
> 
> The garage were testing it at temp the day I picked it up, but there's a difference between a sort test up to temp and a blast up the A43 under heavy pressure load, it's just one of those things, it did show that I need the bring a few more tools, have a better plan for doing track days, but it's all good, onwards and upwards, at least I know the alternator is sorted and oil temps won't be a problem moving forward


That smokey track day was a bullet dodged. Turned out the previous owner hadn't replaced a loose tappet during some top end work, but just tightened it up. Trouble is you can't torque them twice so it had worked loose and was just about to drop off the rocker shaft.  That's what caused the leak out through the rocker cover gasket. Every (oil smoke) cloud has a silver lining. 

Make a list of tools and put/keep them in a soft sports bag, that way you can just throw it in the back each time. I always take a small trolley jack (comes in a plastic box) with me too. The lads used it at the last day at Snett when Jamman rocked up sans brake pads. 'Ere chaps, what's that grinding noise?" :roll:

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Anyone know why this thread sinks without a trace in the track and Motorsport section, but shows up fine in the TT one? I thought threads that were updated got bumped in their relevant section?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Anyone know why this thread sinks without a trace in the track and Motorsport section, but shows up fine in the TT one? I thought threads that were updated got bumped in their relevant section?


Yeah our project threads don't get bumped in the Motorsports section, which is a tad annoying as it's probably where we want them the most! [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Who do we have to speak to in order to sort this out? It's tedious having to fish back onto an ancient page to find it and update


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I think John-H is generally the man!

I know at the time he wanted them to stay bumped up on the Main Mk1 forum to keep it busy and new people interested, but there must be a way for them to bumped up on both sections(Surely?.... Hopefully?!) :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> I think John-H is generally the man!
> 
> I know at the time he wanted them to stay bumped up on the Main Mk1 forum to keep it busy and new people interested, but there must be a way for them to bumped up on both sections(Surely?.... Hopefully?!) :lol:


I'm sure its just either a tweak to a PHP function or a setting in the forum to make it happen, its bloody annoying though!

Anyway, back to track matters - I am now booked for Bedford (again...  ) on the 1st of August, I can see there is an S5 and an RS4 already confirmed for that day, it will be interesting to see how they keep up with me over a lap ha ha


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Von Twinzig said:


> ...the last day at Snett when Jamman rocked up sans brake pads. 'Ere chaps, what's that grinding noise?" :roll:
> 
> VT


A-ha, so _that'_s why Tango Tubby was asking about cheap pads for the 993TT calipers! Gotcha.

Audi S8 pads from '99-'02, BTW. About 1/3 the price from having four rings on them rather than the Stuttgart coat of arms. Never thought I'd see an Audi part being the cheaper option.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Mondo said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > ...the last day at Snett when Jamman rocked up sans brake pads. 'Ere chaps, what's that grinding noise?" :roll:
> ...


 

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nothing much happened recently as the car has been sat since my failed Rockingham experience - Monday is Javelin at Bedford so going to do the usual pre-flight checks, but wanted to post this here incase it's of interest to other people...

I bought a spare rocker off eBay for £15, took it down to http://www.collingsfinishing.co.uk who have done an amazing job on it... These guys do work for Aston Martin on their manifolds and rockers (production line stuff) so it's not cheap, but the quality is outstanding! And they use military grade primers as well, so longevity is assured.

£120 gets you this:




























If the car survives Bedford I'll be doing Snetterton for VTs thing, I'll fit this after that...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking goooood! 8)


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Nick....that looks a little orange to my eye. Oh blimey! 

VT


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Being a grumpy sod:  Im thinking when crud gets into the pits on the surface,as it will itd be just extra cleaning 
Then again my engine bay looks semi standard , even cracks/splits in some of the plastic cover parts  
"the horror, the horror"


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

It does look a little orange in the pics, but its definitely red, I didn't want to go too red for fear of it looking like a honda type R engine ha ha

I managed to get a little oil on the top of it when testing the oil cap fitment, cursed my sloppiness but it just wiped off surprisingly so I don't think the subtle grain will be that bad. At the moment my engine probably looks worse then yours 3TT3 - It looks like the back of a very dirty washing machine in a Romanian car wash!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good day at Bedford yesterday, although a lot of novices there in road cars that were causing mayhem, and one particular idiot on track in a track prepared Toyota Trueno with the numberplate IINOV8 - beware if you see him, I had to head to the organisers to complain about his driving after holding me up for over half a lap, eventually letting me pass on the back straight before the chicane, but decided as I was overtaking to speed up so we were side by side approaching the chicane before brake testing me. I could have been bad, and if it was on the road I would have got out and smashed his teeth in. Thankfully I had a few laps to calm me down.

Met Jenny, Dave, Liam & Steve - so quite a good showing of TTs on track, the TTRS' are lovely beasts! Liam was hampered by a dodgy MAF and just couldn't get any power down.

Car behaved really well, although I really need to pull my finger out and get some carbotechs - these MIntex have to go!

Power Steering god really hot and the pressure expansion caused fluid to leave through the filler cap, cleaned her up and checked, she was good from the second stint onwards.

Some pics:


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Looking good dude! Glad you got out there this time and had a good day! All those you mentioned are top quality people too, brilliant to have on-track.

Sounds like you may be in need of an independent power-steering cooler then? I've got this in my watch list...

http://www.mishimoto.co.uk/mishimoto-universal-transmission-cooler-kit.html

I believe Max uses something similar also.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Cheers for the link Nick, yup, that looks like the kind of thing I need - I was toying with trashing the whole power steering off and going old school unassisted, but I think it might be too heavy, although I am strong I think it could get tiresome, but I know it would improve feel over the detached audi steering as it currently stands.

I also want to shave out the aircon and simplify the whole can of worms that is the breather system but finding a good guide for the BAM is proving elusive.

Any news on when you will be back on track? (PM if you prefer)

you run the HG intercooler don't you? recommend it? what pipes did you go for?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Yeah i think that would be incredibly heavy - Maybe fine when moving at speed though you'd have to turn into to popeye in the pit lane! The whole breather system, delete/simplification could do with a good guide. I'm starting to get my head around it i think, but it isn't easy! Aircon is easy enough to remove though and offers a huge weight saving.

I do run a HG Motorsports core, then mocked up the pipework from an eBay kit. Saved me a good whack, but did involve a lot of fettling. If you can't be asked with that the HG Motorsport kits is a great option and not tooo expensive.





P.s. CT Scan came back normal cheers dude, i'm just waiting on a cardiologist now, so hopefully it wont be much longer


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

man, it'll be good to get the all clear, bet you are feeling the lack of driving now - it might have just been a blood sugar drop - happened to a friend in Tesco once, she's a 6 footer and she hit the deck hard, just hadn't eaten much in over a day, hadn't drunk much and was stressed, moved to quick and that was it... crash, awful to see it happen.

I've been reading up on the HG stuff, looks good - I won't buy the forge on price principal, but I will probably get the race core version with pipes when I do - looks like a nice setup.

Is there an air-con removal guide anywhere? what belt did you use?


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

A couple of guys with MKIV golfs/Boras use that cooler as they had issues after swapping over to TT racks. Apparently work very well from what I've read.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Yeah, hopefully it's just a two-off lol. I'm hoping to be back driving in the net couple of weeks, I'm just waiting to be signed off really now.

AC wise, this has some info...

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=577401&hilit=6pk

It a 6pk1120 belt if I remember, if you do a car search on Eurocarparts and use the number plate from and Quattrosport, it has an AC and non-AC option, the non-AC being 1120 I think!

I know what you mean about the Forge cooler, it just seems daft to charge that much. They do a lot of good stuff, but them sometimes you do wonder what they are thinking regards pricing!!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

1781cc said:


> Car behaved really well, although I really need to pull my finger out and get some carbotechs - these MIntex have to go!
> 
> Power Steering god really hot and the pressure expansion caused fluid to leave through the filler cap, cleaned her up and checked, she was good from the second stint onwards.


Those forum-approved 1144 pads are not up to the task once you start pushing a TT. You're going to love the Carbos!

A PS cooler like Nick pointed is your best bet. I have been running one for over 5 years and have never boiled the fluid once -- something that I did before every time I have my track wheels on.

Car is looking really nice in the corners! Maybe a tad less rear camber, but looking really composed and balanced.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks Nick, Mick & Max - A cooler is on the list, funny how we have these lists building up, mine is longer now then when I started, which just goes to show that your preconceived ideas on what you think you need aren't always right.

I have to say that the Mocal 19 row oil cooler kept everything under control oil temp wise, I didn't see above 113 deg the whole time I was there - and no leaks this time. Coolant also didn't go above 98 deg, which I can only assume its because of A, cooler oil and B, it didn't have any antifreeze in it in the first place, which is a legacy from the previous owner that I overlooked, its running G13 fluid now and its made a difference as I usually touched on 110 deg water wise. I love the info the liquid TT gauge gives me.

I am guessing that in future the coolant temps will probably be lower when the aircon rad goes but will probably be back to where it is now when the intercooler goes infront of it, either way, I can live with that.

Forgot to mention that the difference with the haldex insert in is very noticeable, gone is the ponderous nature of it thinking about what to do and in its just so predictable and tractable, I was on several laps really pushing as hard as I could to unseat her, I managed to get some good, controlled slides in and it finally feels like the quattro system I have been used to from the last 10 years. The drive home was wet and I also tried to unseat her on roundabouts and she felt much more secure and predictable, the insert and the liquid are my two favourite purchases for this car bar none.

The other thing its that its nice to know that I can throw the car around without starvation, a new pickup pipe and the forge baffled sump really put my mind at ease, I regularly ran into the 7,500 rpm bracket and she felt absolutely fine doing so, I did fluff a few gears on occasion though, so I think I will be looking at Max's mod to raise the tunnel and also get a forge quick shift and side shift element fitted.

Camber and Brakes - noted, I think the 1144s are absolutely fine if you are doing an occasional track day with your daily road car, you can put them in and use them everyday, but when you want to track, they won't let you down, but they certainly aren't optimal, for my first few after fitting I think they were fine and a good learning experience, but I know that the car and I have come along since then and the Carbotechs will be a welcome addition.

Once I have done a load more work I will take her to Jabba Sport to get her setup and counterweighted properly.

This track stuff is fun, especially when you can ding dong with an Evo over several laps and show up a brand new M4 :roll: (videos coming soon...)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Videos now up on my youtube channel - video 6 loading overnight and has in car footage, unfortunately this was the session with the idiot and the brake test so I got a little sloppy in places with a head of steam... must learn to refocus quicker with that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USrzrw1 ... eWhitehead

Bit of Data for people:

£100 in Fuel (1.5 tanks) for 156 miles @ 8.2 Mpg - Totaling 38 Laps with the fastest complete lap at 3:01 on my 3rd run. Jenny was saying that the rule of thumb is if you are under 3:00 at Bedford, you are fast - just missed it this time. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Interestingly, I used my TomTom Spark Cardio to record a cutom workout and see what my heart rate was doing, energy burned, etc, these are grabs from 2 of the 6 runs - interesting to note it peaked at 147, probably when I came across the idiot above as nothing else explains it!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Is there an air-con removal guide anywhere? what belt did you use?


Got a Bentley's? It's pretty straight forward.

Your Mintex pads. What are you running? You need probably more air and to move up the compound range.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

No bentleys yet, looking for a decent one on fleabay, have been for a while.

I'm running 1144s and nankangs ns2r hard compounds at 28 deg hot, found that to be where she felt best


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1144's are a fast road pad. Loads more compounds up the chain. I'm on 1166's and will be moving to an F2R next for a bit more initial bite. http://www.questmead.co.uk/index.php/co ... tag/40-f2r

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

But you are running a vmax BBK so you'll have more pressure from the calipers anyways

I am pretty set on carbotechs now, xp10 rears and xp12 fronts, Questmead (Alan) said the 1144s were right at the time, certainly outgrown then though


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Just to put it out, the Mintex 1155 is still not that good compared to other good compounds from other brands. The 1166 feels and behaves like an endurance pad (still subpar friction level and bite IMO). So it's not a simple +1 in compound range with Mintex.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> I'm on 1166's and will be moving to an F2R next for a bit more initial bite. http://www.questmead.co
> 
> VT


I've never tried them but I heard the F series compound is decent. What made you skip the F1R and decide to go for the F2R with less friction and TQ rating?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > I'm on 1166's and will be moving to an F2R next for a bit more initial bite. http://www.questmead.co
> ...


Not set on them Max, but we ran them on the (340bhp) race Scoobie for a couple of seasons and they worked really well. With the thing now running 500bhp we've moved on to Carbon Lorraine.

VT


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## The Godbarber (Jul 12, 2015)

Yeah yeah , all that hard work you've done Lee and I still let you past me at bedford the other day 

But hopefully a new one of these will cure my power issues!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

The Godbarber said:


> Yeah yeah , all that hard work you've done Lee and I still let you past me at bedford the other day
> 
> But hopefully a new one of these will cure my power issues!


BTW, if anayone ever have issues with these while on-track, or boost hose popped off, just unplug the MAF wiring. The car will run fine without (even with a huge boost leak), and you don't have to waste a track day. The ecu uses the MAF for air metering and fueling, but has back up algorithms (Alpha-N fueling model) to take over if the MAF is offline. But you have to unplug it!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Just to put it out, the Mintex 1155 is still not that good compared to other good compounds from other brands. The 1166 feels and behaves like an endurance pad (still subpar friction level and bite IMO). So it's not a simple +1 in compound range with Mintex.


Agreed Max. I wanted to jump straight to the F series once this car went on track, but Alan at Questmead advised me to try the 1166's first. I like the feel and modulation, but deffo need more initial bite, hence my comment. The car is in development, so I don't mine trying a few things out along the way.

VT


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## rovnumpty (Apr 1, 2015)

Fantastic reading this. Very impressed with how your getting on with it.

Regards your brake issue, have you tried some simple ducting? I have a mate who runs an old lotus at clubman level. He was having some issues with fade. Couple of bits of samco hosing run from the front onto the lower wishbones cured it, at least for the duration of the races he runs.

In regards to the power steering, are you still running the return hose up past the turbo? I plumbed a long length of hose in and ran it around the front of the engine bay. Seems to run cooler, but I'm not tracking the car - yet.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hey mate, welcome and thank you! when you do start tracking or prepping before hand, shove a build thread up, we all like to nose at what everyone else is doing.

I do have some plans (well, its a line on a long list of things) for ducting, but like all, its time and money and making sure both align, I think when I tackle the aircon removal I will have the front off the car anyway for the rad removal so will tackle ducting and carbotechs in the same day.

I do think that the bite and fade are missing from these Mintex though, so they have to go in any case, I'll get the discs skimmed as well to tidy the faces up first.


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## Jenny H (Aug 25, 2013)

Hi Lee
It was nice to meet you at Bedford on Monday.
It was a good day and great weather for a change. Your car certainly goes well  
We are planning another Bedford on September 19th if anyone is interested in coming along
Jenny


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hi Jenny, nice to meet you guys too, I'm still trying to clear my schedule for snetterton- bloody work, but if I don't I need another track now, I really do like Bedford, it gets a bad rap of some but it's fast and I know it well, keep me posted on other ones though, I missed your 3:00 "fast" target :-(


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

3:00 Fast hey? I was only 3:12 on my fastest lap iirc, which i'm therefore pretty pleased with, considering it was my first trackday! 

What have you got down to now Lee?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Lap times are on my YouTube videos, in the description, fastest was 3:01, I only have 246bhp according to the liquid :-(


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## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

Where will you be getting your discs skimmed? I have some Nitrac discs that need doing but haven't been able to find anywhere.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

There is an EBC brake centre in Northampton, £40 and axle to reskim


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

There's also a place in Wisbech that does it, saw them doing an Aston Martin on Instagram the other day 8)


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## Gooders (Jul 26, 2016)

Good read, thanks for taking the time to post. Lots of good info!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

NickG said:


> There's also a place in Wisbech that does it, saw them doing an Aston Martin on Instagram the other day 8)


Nick at Auto 2000 (just outside Bedford) who looks after my 911 does them. Interesting bit of kit. Takes several fine passes to get them smooth.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So, first update in ages and its a bit of a mixed bag...

I ended up at Donnington yesterday on a Circuit Days Track day, never driven or even attended a race there before, only ever seen it on TV and driven it on Toca Touring Cars on my PS1 many many years ago - now considering that my track days have only ever been at Bedford, I thought it would be good to explore other circuits - the impact of coming round the first corner from the pits and down into the Craner Curves for the first time was a feeling I don't think I will ever forget, what a change of elevation and series of curves, absolutely beautiful, I spent more time looking at the circuit on the pace laps rather than paying attention to the lines.




























Anyway, the weather was slippery and TT and its traction with the power track insert really helped, she was squirming around a lot under braking and coming out of some of the tighter corners, but overall, I was really pleased with progress in the wet/damp conditions. The rear drive cars were struggling a lot more than me putting power down, even though I had my semi slick Nankangs on.



















All the way up until lunch, my confidence started growing, speed increased, Craner curves were fantastic, the latter part of the circuit, the "bolt on bit" was a bit sh*t by comparison, but helped learning to judge braking distances going downhill, and in the case of the last bend before the pit straight, off camber as well.




























After lunch things were going well, until a major off at what I can only guess as being 100+ MPH

I'm not exactly sure how it all went pear shaped, but the car felt loose and twitchy all day, the backend was squirming a lot, I had quite a bit of understeer and the brakes weren't really biting enough, I kept getting longer and longer into the braking zone and missing my apexes as the pads just couldn't keep up (again, I am still running the Mintex 1144 pads, I plan to change but funds are tight at the moment after way too much unexpected house problems)

So, the end of my day came about as I was about 5 laps into the circuit at about 3pm, I came round the first bend quicker than normal with a much better line, I remember this because it was the first time the marshals hadn't let a car randomly join the track as a car was coming down the pit straight giving it full beans (Bedford marshals are really good at judging gaps and managing flow, Donnington don't seem to care and just throw you out anywhere, even into oncoming traffic)

I digress... The first corner was good, speed was high and I had been building confidence in Craner all day, I've always lifted off the throttle slightly there, and I can't tell if I did or didn't this time, or if I got my line wrong, touched the grass or what, but at the lowest point of the curves, the back snapped away, it was fast and furious, and to a degree I caught it, wrestling at the wheel and fighting to regain control, but was fighting a losing battle and momentum took control, pitching me all the way across the grass runoff, and deep, very deep into the gravel trap - amazingly, I didn't even stall her, so somewhere in the chaos I had the presence of mind to dump the clutch or put her in neutral.



















I red flagged the session 

After I was towed out and drove round on the grass anti-clockwise back to the pit entrance the car sounded like a bag of nails, scraping, rubbing and everything, I really didn't want to see what damage I had done to the car, expecting her to be totalled.

I inspected the car, nothing cosmetic damaged, the undertray was hanging off and had a huge piece missing from it, there were stones everywhere and in every possible place there could be. I cleaned out what I could and tried to drop as many stones in the car park on my way out of the circuit by turning each way, picking stones out of the brake guards and so on.

The 60 mile drive home was embarrassing, random stones dropping and intermittent high pitch squealing from the brakes as a new stone came to the fore and jammed in the guards.

I haven't even looked at the car since I parked up last night, I'll save that fun for the weekend....

So, I think it was a combination of things, Ambition overtaking skills is probably at the top of that list, but I also think that my suspension needs looking at, I need more downforce at the rear and better brakes. I also don't know if my tyre pressures should have been adjusted, but I ran them at the usual 30 psi hot I do at Bedford. (how many miles should one expect from 180 Nankang NS2-R's?) and finally, is it time to be looking at better suspension then the FK Coilovers I have on there from when I bought it?

Power is the last thing on my mind at this stage...

Things to do before Rockingham on the 22nd of October:
- Inspect everything
- Full alignment

Things to do over winter:
- Carbotechs
- Skim the disks
- Rear Spoiler
- new under tray (is this needed?)
- 3" decat and downpipe (I have a dead post-cat sensor, so makes sense)
- strip some weight out of the front
- new suspension?
- full counterweight

Any other suggestions? comments or gloating? pop them below...


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Great update and insight 1781.

My 2 cents, your tyre pressures were too low. I've found the Nankags (I'm running mediums) have a narrow window. I run stock pressures all round, but hot, anything lower and the rear is really squirmy on the limit. At stock hot, my car will grip and then gently 4 wheel drift, lower and as my son put it ..."feels like the tyres are made of chewing gum Dad" 

Don't worry about the gravel, far better than the scenery/Armco. Dump off the undertray and any brake back plates you are running, most of it will then fall out pretty easily.

If you're on a budget, sit down when you check out the price of the Carbotechs over here. I couldn't justify it.

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Wowzers!! I was wondering how you got on, seems you had a fun time and with little damage caused its notnessecarily a bad thing to find the limits, is the way to do it if you're gunna do it!! I agree though, donny is a fantastic track, I've always loved watching events there, my favourite memory is seeing 4 Ginetta Juniors attempting to hit the last chicane side by side... you can imagine how that turned out! :lol:

We do need to find some quality pads that aren't going to break the bank here in the U.K. Between us all, there's got to be an option that ticks all the boxes.

Regarding undertray and rear spoiler. If you are going down the route of a big spoiler, you'll probably start to introduce understeer again at higher speeds... kill 2 birds with one stone therefore and fab up a front splitter combined with undertray to balance out the car again? Just a thought but definitely worth considering as an 'aero package''.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks guys, I played with the psi before I started, it was 34 all round hot after the first set of runs, she was squirming then, can't really remember if she felt better or not with the drop to 30 hot, I think she did, a lot of what I remember was kind of overtaken by what I remember about the accident.

I still haven't been outside and checked her over, I am off to Stuttgart tomorrow so wont be till Thursday at least now... but I've bought an impact wrench and a whole pile of other tools yesterday to start working on the taking things off for the inspection.

I hear you about the aero package bringing more downforce onto the back will induce more understeer, I might have to dig into Madmax's thread again and do something similar to his..

I think my confidence is a little knocked by it, but I am sure that will pass (unless I stuff her into the wall at Rockingham ha ha)

But there has been a major plus to all this, before I was still concerned about cosmetics to a degree, now I realise why so many track cars are battered, its because these things happen, battle scars are to be expected. At least now I know that and have some function ideas to get on with, regardless of cosmetics. Although, I am dreading giving her a wash, I expect to see between 50-100 stone chips [smiley=bomb.gif]

Please tell me I aint alone going off track like this - You guys done it yet?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Have I done it? In my TWO trackdays on flat airfields, nope. Will it happen? Absolutely! It's part and parcel of pushing a car to the edge, wet track, elevation changes, new to track... don't beat yourself up about it dude!

Regarding cosmetics, I think I'm similar to you, I want it to look nice when it's in my control, but when stuff happens (and it will happen) then such is life, I'll try not to worry too much!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

What a fab write up. I think like nick says it's inevitable to go off at some point and to do the first one at 100mph is gonna be pretty hairy. My car is off the road with the engine in lots of little pieces and reading stuff like this makes me well jealous. 
Hope the car is all good once you've had a chance to check it over


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Off track? Not in the TT, but in the early days with my first 911, plenty of times. That's why places like Snett, Bedford and to some degree Donny are great places to explore the limits and learn to feel the car at them, in relative safety. Time and a place for Cadwell, but not yet.

The cosmetics thing...that's why I searched around for a solid brilliant black one. You can get whizzy with the touch in paint without it showing. I've learnt my lesson with metallic paint on track cars.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well, that makes me feel better about it all - I dread to think of the fear involved with a 911 going off track, not one of the new ones, but the expensive older ones - I know the 80s ones can be pretty lairy, especially in the wet!

I've been thinking a lot about this whole tracking stuff and am starting to re-evaluate how I go about things, driving to the track in the car seems like a good idea, but it hit me driving home after gravelgate that if I was to properly prang it, destroy a wheel/hub/strut then it would be a whole other pile of issues, and I see now why so many people trailer theirs. Plus, the availability of tools, jacks and so on, so its something I will have to consider in future, especially as it gives me a chance then to go ahead modding without MOT, insurance and tax issues - which in turn frees up more cash to pour into the project. I know the S8 is more than capable of towing as well, so i've started looking at trailers on eBay #notcheap

Anywho, being as I am now missing a GoPro since my excursion through the gravel trap, I only managed to get videos off the first memory card, so will be uploading those when I get a decent internet connection, for now however, I have traced the lap times based on the moment I pass the start/finish line as that all that counts as a full lap - being that entering and exiting the pits produce a short lap.

The video times tell quite a picture in that I am on average lapping at 2:02 most consistently around the full track layout of 2.498 miles - it was a busy day as well, so traffic plays a factor to a degree and its a new circuit, my fastest lap was a 1:59 on lap 5 of the fourth run. The second run was by far my most consistent, I also notice that on my second run - after a red flag - I managed a total of 11 laps, all within a 4 second window, which is pretty darn consistent.

The anomaly in all this is that fuel weight decreases over the runs, so I am not actually getting faster as this happens, I can only assume that a heavier car helps with traction coming out of some some corners and the weight loss from fuel depletion helps with acceleration and braking overall. Where this theory goes to pot and points to maybe a lack of traffic, is that my 1:59 fastest run was set after lunch, where I had filled up fully at the Total garage onsite (and I was full of veg curry)

Either way, I am not sure if those lap times are fast or comparable to anyone else's experience with the TT at Donnington, but for me, it gives me a good benchmark to measure against next time I am up there.

Full times for nosey parkers:

Donnington Park 22/09/16

*RUN 1*
Out lap: 2:11
Lap 2: 2:12
Lap 3: 2:06
Lap 4: 2:07
Lap 5: 2:01
Lap 6: 2:15
Lap 7: 2:07
Lap 8: 2:05
In lap: 2:00

*RUN 2*
Out lap: 2:02
In lap: 2:22 *- Session Red Flagged*
Out lap: 2:03
Lap 2: 2:02 
Lap 3: 2:02
Lap 4: 2:01
Lap 5: 2:01
Lap 6: 2:02
Lap 7: 2:05
Lap 8: 2:01
Lap 9: 2:01
Lap 10: 2:02
In lap: 2:04

*RUN 3*
Out lap: 2:02
Lap 2: 2:02
Lap 3: 2:03
Lap 4: 2:01
Lap 5: 2:04
Lap 6: 2:02
Lap 7: 2:01
Lap 8: 2:05
Lap 9: 2:01
In Lap: 1:59

*RUN 4*
Out lap: 2:05
Lap 2: 2:05
Lap 3: 2:04
Lap 4: 2:01
Lap 5: 1:59* - Fastest Lap!*
In Lap: 2:56 *- Session Red Flagged*

Incidentally, not sure if anyone knows about this site, but while I was searching for the track length online today, I came across this site - some really interesting info in there!

http://www.raceoptimal.com/Donington


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

The same conclusion as me after driving home with little to no braking... it's not fun and the money you save on insurance and tax will actually outweigh the cost of the trailer within a few years, with the added convenience of not worrying!

Lap times that are consistent are what you want! Probably the reason you don't get faster as fuel goes is that you're not on that limit yet and the difference in weight as an overall % of the car won't be anywhere near to an F1 car. They gain in theory 0.1s per lap, on a long lap generally, with a higher % of weight each lap being lost... for us regularly folk, measuring in whole seconds from the video, you just won't see that (especially when you combine with the inconsistency of each lap!).

Brilliant find on that website too, looks like a little gem of a find!!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I requested they add Bedford GT as it wasn't there and got a mail back straight away saying they will email me when it's done - it certainly looks good for pre-drive casing

I hear what your saying about the weight, but from full tank to less than a quarter could be as much as 50kg in weight! It may not has much effect on lap time as you say but it's got to have some residual impact on inertia surely?


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## Jenny H (Aug 25, 2013)

Ah Lee, I was wondering how you got on. Sorry to hear about Gravelgate and I hope your car is not too bad :roll: Donington is a great circuit and its certainly better to fall off in the gravel than the armco. Your lap times seemed pretty quick too. 
I never time mine but from the videos are around 1.40 for the much much shorter National circuit. I am never likely to break a track record  
Are you going to Audi Driver International at Castle Combe in October?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Jenny H said:


> Ah Lee, I was wondering how you got on. Sorry to hear about Gravelgate and I hope your car is not too bad :roll: Donington is a great circuit and its certainly better to fall off in the gravel than the armco. Your lap times seemed pretty quick too.
> I never time mine but from the videos are around 1.40 for the much much shorter National circuit. I am never likely to break a track record


Interesting. I checked out what the guys in the race series the Scoobie is running in did at Donny National. So Scoobie at 330bhp/1150kg on slicks...1:18.47. BMW Compact, again on slicks 1.26.5, Citroen Xara...1.21.7. Trackdays are like slo-mo in comparison. I remember the tuner of my 911 videoing both in his race car. When he was editing them he thought he'd done something wrong as the race footage seemed speeded up! 

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

A little update...

I have the car on Axle stands now having stripped the brakes off, removed the under strays from the rear of the car and taken all the trapped stones out (there must have been a good 2 kilos worth of stones in the under trays, resting on the control arms and above the heatshields, amazing the places they get to! dissapointingly my car looks pebbledash all over the lower wings and sills from stone impacts, but it is what it is, concours had long left the building anyway 

The pads were destroyed, so no wonder I had some trouble stopping around Donnington, the funny thing is there were at about 4-5mm the day before, Donnington with its elevated and defining brake changes have really destroyed these Mintex 1144s - Im glad to see the back of them!




























So, while I removed the brake guards, I decided to follow VTs lead and trim the front arches down, I just kept enough to protect the side mount intercoolers until I get a FMIC and then they will come off for good.




























My pursuit of Carbotech pads isn't going to happen this instalment, despite having the rears off as core donors - the timescales just don't work for me or Ian so I plumped for DS3000 front and rears from Demon Tweeks, they are on offer at the moment and came in delivered at over £130 cheaper than the Corbotechs would have anyway, so at this stage of the game, with so much more stuff to buy it made more sense to go down that route.

MOT is imminent so pads need to go back on and brakes working, I should have them all back in and on by the weekend, however, I still need to tackle this airbag light and I've been assured that if there is no visible bulb and no visible airbags or controllers it wont be an issue - time to pull the cluster again I think.

Next up, in a long winded convoluted story, I have ended up with a completely free carbon fibre adjustable wing, I know its not a dual element pure motorsport kind but I figured if its free its worth trying - its a universal one more suited to jap drift cars I think, but I am going to test her out anyway and see what happens, nothing outlaid, nothing lost!

At the moment I have just placed on to see how it would work, I will probably be drilling holes next weekend...




























it looks a bit left-low in the pics, but thats my loose positioning, I'll do it properly with a spirit level when it comes to actually dropping holes into the car


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Interested to see how you find the DS3000's! The old pads look very unevenly worn, is that front or back? 

That wing.... 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> Interested to see how you find the DS3000's! The old pads look very unevenly worn, is that front or back?
> 
> That wing.... 8)


Rear, left side was uneven, quite seriously as well, which may mean a replacement calliper soon, but the fronts were worn equally and also the pots just slide back into the calliper nice and smoothly so thats all good.

I like the look of the wing but I am more interested to see what a difference it makes to actual handling, although my next track day is the 22nd at Rockingham I am planning on taking it nice and easy and concentrate on lines and learning the circuit rather than going out and out as fast as I can (which is probably the mistake I made at Donnington)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It might be worth getting the rears refurbed while your there then, i think mine cost £140 for a premium coating and were turned around in 7 days, last thing you want is a sticky caliper on track!

Your gunna have a good time, i'm really looking forward to getting to Rockingham in the future, such a cool track!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

The DS3000's will be fine, but they will munch through your discs. I ran them on my aircooled track car (very briefly) and didn't like them. And just be careful on the road 'til they warm up, from cold I found them useless.

The wing is bonkers.......but in a good way. If it doesn't hurt the car's performance I'd leave it on just for the craic  8)

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> And just be careful on the road 'til they warm up, from cold I found them useless.
> 
> The wing is bonkers.......but in a good way. If it doesn't hurt the car's performance I'd leave it on just for the craic  8)
> 
> VT


Ha ha, my mate has a complexly loony S15 Silva and he ended up with two, so I got this one for free - it needs a little repair work as it arrived with a scrape in the carbon fibre lacquer, I must admit that I like the way it looks though.

I used to run DS2500 on my S4 so I know those were good road pads, these have a CF of 0.54 and are a lot cheaper, so on balance with the cost of discs they are worth a try. I hear what you are saying about the road and cold, but to be fair, she goes for MOTs, then to and from the track a super slow speeds, its when I get to the track that I mash the pedal.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Quick update, nothing too exciting...

Aircon stripped out and conti quattrosport belt fitted - niece bit of front end weight saving there!
New N/S rear caliper
Ferrodo DS3000 front and rear pads fitted
New MOT
New rear brake lines
Rear spoiler finally fitted

Car is looking more and more like a race car - who knows if it does anything to the aero, but too late to go back as I have holes in the boot lid now!




























I've been giving my go pro power issue some thought as I normally rely on batteries, having been too hasty in ripping out my interior I removed the 12V cigarette supply, so I've been thinking about using this setup for the two GoPro's I have just picked up on fleabay - means I can have both running off USB power on track, and I can charge my phone whilst leaving/arriving.



















I've ordered the bits, but they come from China so will take some time (but they were cheap) - when they arrive I'll drop them into the dash as vertical ports, one for the inside GoPro, the other for the outside GoPro.

Just need to bed the pads in, wash her, and then its Rockingham on Saturday! :twisted:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good day up at Rockingham yesterday - well until about 3pm...

Turns out there was only 40 cars on track all day, which is pretty cool, there were no traffic issues or congestion and a lot of times it was purely a case of being on your own section of racetrack with no cars around, great for experimenting will lines and really pushing the limits, I felt like I gave the car a real good workout this time and my speed just seemed to increase as the day went on.

It started off as a lovely day, nice and clear, some clouds and a little cool at 11 degrees, but the car felt fast, I respected the wall initially, but the rear wing has paid dividends and the rear feels so much more planted now, I have confidence going into fast weeping corners (like turn 1) flat on the throttle and was continually passing cars there, even under instruction later on, I also think that the new brakes have made a massive difference, the bite was much improved, no fade at all throughout the day and the new OSR calliper allowing me to trail the brakes into the sharper corners allowing me to turn in, but with confidence this time.

Started with 30psi hot all round, best balance and grip for me was 36 front 32 rear hot - Nanking NS2-R 120s








[/url]

The section leading up to and through piff-paff was brilliant, I appeared to be the only one really hammering the curbs and almost straight-lining over the cusp of piff-paff itself, which is probably where my vibration started to occur and progressively get worse. Up until lunch everything was great, very quick through there and made progress, proved to be a lot quicker around the circuit then a lot of cars - my worry is that I will always be the slowest car on track, but I've never been that so all good.



















Anyway, back to the vibration, it appeared to start on the left turns, when the load increased on the right side, I initially thought it was a wheel bearing at the rear, so I stopped, checked the wheel and everything felt ok, so went out again, it got much worse, so I pulled in and called it a day, expecting to have to head home at a snails pace and get the wheel bearing done.

5 miles into my journey, and ironically at the same place I had to get collected by the AA last time I came to Rockingham, I pulled in and checked the rears, all looked fine, checked the fronts, and the NSF had two bolts in it 

Not having spare bolts, I took the decision to take one of each out of the rears and made it back to 4 bolts in order to get home, concerningly, I have no idea how this happened, or how bad it could have been if it had gone on track or worse, in the middle of the oval [smiley=bigcry.gif]

This morning I went out and checked the wheel, a bolt snapped in half and I have a chunk of it still embedded in the hub - good job I have a dremmel in the shed, so I will cut a cross into it, dose in WD40 and try and get it out with the impact driver and a phillips head, then if it needs it, helicoil the hole.

Is this caused by a big bump, general failure or a spacer not sitting properly?

Anyway, no photos from the day as the official photographer couldn't be bothered to get out of bed... but I have some good video footage that I will be editing tomorrow and uploading


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Glad you had a good day dude!! And great to hear you have been improving the car well!! How did you find the tuition?

What's bolts were you using then, that's scary!! I don't know if you generally do or not, it I keep my torque wrench set at 110nm throughout the day and check them at the end of every session... you may well do this and have had a failure which is seriously scary, or if not, add this into your routine!! Lucky you caught it and saved the day in that respect either way.

If you were smashing kerbs hard it could have been that I guess, again, depends whether you were checking torque between sessions I guess.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

This happened to me at Curborough first time out and was one of the drivers for me going straight to studs and lug nuts. You can instantly see if you have a nut coming loose, not so with a bolt. Never had a problem since. Get 'em changed. And I always torqued both to 130Nm.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

To be honest, I've never checked them at the track, I've only ever done them as part of my pre-track checks, but you live and learn with more experience - it's definitely something I will be looking into more and running check wise after each run, it just never crossed my mind before.

The tuition was ok, he said that I generally had the right approach to the circuit, just needed to change a couple of angles going into corners (i.e., much earlier and acute on turns 2 and 9, but that aside I didn't garner much more from it, I think I leant a lot after my first tuition on my 2nd track day at Bedford, and I've kept applying a lot of that ever since, I think tuition is more of a circuit specific thing to help you make the most of your time there, I booked it initially expecting a horribly wet session and loads of danger due to the reputation the circuit has under those conditions, thankfully, it was dry in the main and was actually ok in the damp session after the lunchtime rain because I kept well clear of the kerbs.

If all goes well, my last session this year will be Bedford on the 2nd of December if anyone else is up for it?


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## Fastasaudi (Oct 10, 2016)

Hi.. really loving this thread.. your cars are great really learning a lot from you guys..

I live in Milton Keynes and work in Bedford so know this area quite well...

Have often looked at a track day at Bedford..

Keep the videos coming they are awesome...

Cheers Colin..


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hi Colin, thanks for comments, try and give Bedford a go, it's a great circuit for a beginner on track as there's loads of safe off areas, some people say it's Mickey Mouse but I like it and I've seen a fair few experienced drivers get it very wrong without consequence

Some friends of mine run a local fast car meet in Milton Keynes ever other month during winter, will drop you a PM with the next one if your interested in coming along, we usually have anything from 800hp RS6s to a 1.9 205 gti


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## matty fitz (Feb 8, 2012)

How do you do up your wheels bolts? You should use a torque wrench to the correct torque figures otherwise this sort of thing happends when you over torque them.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Usually with a breaker bar and a socket, I'm most likely guilty of over torquing to be honest, I'm gonna get a half inch torque wrench as I've only got a quarter one.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Usually with a breaker bar and a socket, I'm most likely guilty of over torquing to be honest, I'm gonna get a half inch torque wrench as I've only got a quarter one.


Machine mart do an ideal one, £25 roughly, 1/2" and goes up to about 200nm so perfect for wheel bolts and suspension components I find!!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Don't forget to unwind the wrench at the end of the day to keep it calibrated. And guys 110Nm isn't enough for track use on a 14mm stud IMHO. Checking I found this on line.....

Lug Nuts:
7/16" Wheel stud = 75-85 ft-lbs
1/2" Wheel stud = 85-95 ft-lbs
5/8" Wheel stud = 130-140 ft-lbs or wheel stud manufacturer's spec.
12mm = 90 ft-lbs
14mm = 110 ft-lbs

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Got a laser 1/2" torque wrench and some extended, tapered wheel bolts from ECP, all sorted, just gotta get the snapped one out. I will look at bolts later on I think

In the meantime, while I am encoding videos... I am currently looking at my shopping list for more power - I am going to be doing things in two stages and already spoke to Bill at Badger 5 about his Hybrid setup, china fold and rods - that is the eventual plan and prices seem reasonable for the return.

However, I need to get some things going in the meantime to support the hybrid later on, kind of related to this topic and wanted some recommendations on the following:

- Injectors, need them to be capable for 350bhp hybrid when I get there, but may as well have them in place with a stage 2 remap in the interim, what shall I get that will work and have headroom?
- Downpipe, looking at the pipewerx 3" downpipe and decat seems to be the best fit and bang for your buck, its 3" and I have a 3" cat back
- FMIC, I am going for the group buy FMIC so thats sorted, what silicone hoses though?
- Fuel pump, like injectors, not essential now, but may as well with the injectors and remap so I am ready when the time comes.
- Badger 5 TIP
- Stage 2 remap

I am assuming that this will probably bring me in line for about 280 ponies, hit me with your recommendations please!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Finally got round to doing videos:

Donnington Park / 22 September / Single Camera
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... j-S8h0fTXo

Rockingham Speedway / 22 October / Multiple Cameras
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... TRAirO6bLr

Lap times in the video descriptions!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I've bought Bosch EV14 630's from this chap in the States ....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Bosch-EV14- ... 1217100069.

Offer of a $100 was accepted. Had a friend bring them back for me. Still to be fitted.

VT


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## Antthony (Jul 29, 2016)

Love the progress so far, and the videos  
I will be regularly uploading once I get mine on the track too.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Little bit of an update - mostly menial stuff, but all necessary in the grand scheme of things!










Followed Nicks lead of removing the heater system - his engine was out so make life easier, I got all neanderthal with a hammer though, quite therapeutic smashing away at the thing!



















Next came tackling my loom, i've been putting it off for ages, but so far I am 8 hours into it, I have unpicked everything, traced things back to areas where they weren't needed, i.e., all airbag ecu stuff, speaker cables, heating stuff, boot release cables, door lock and window cables, interior light cables, rear demist cables, wing mirror cables, loads of stuff... quite a lot of overall weight involved in all the cables, but more than anything I didn't want any unused load going through the system, I have an auto electrician coming out on Friday to double check my work and do some custom things as well as measure a cold crank amp level and a running amp drain so I can see how small I can go with the new lithium battery when I order it.










I also want all unused items removed from the fusebox properly.

The custom things I want wiring in are stuff like the petrol flap as now I have removed the Comfort Control unit it doesn't open, so its going to be wired into a momentary switch.

Being as this is solely a track car, I have fixed the windows in their highest position and have removed everything, mirrors are also fixed now as no one else bar me drives this thing. I also have to manually lock and unlock the doors - I don't need remote central locking on a track car (!) - the doors now have 0 cables running to them, weight? including the motor for the windows - 1.793 kg a side.




























I am keeping door cards for the moment because I use the net storage and I don't like the idea of sharp metal edges in light of an impact, at some point I will get some aluminium door cards made up.

I think I am going to follow VTs lead with the angle grinder this afternoon...


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## Antthony (Jul 29, 2016)

1781cc said:


> [/url]
> 
> Next came tackling my loom, i've been putting it off for ages, but so far I am 8 hours into it, I have unpicked everything, traced things back to areas where they weren't needed, i.e., all airbag ecu stuff, speaker cables, heating stuff, boot release cables, door lock and window cables, interior light cables, rear demist cables, wing mirror cables, loads of stuff...


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

also forgot to mention... one flocked dash ready for when all the wiring is done and the new heater core is in!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> also forgot to mention... one flocked dash ready for when all the wiring is done and the new heater core is in!


Oooo La Laaaa! Where can i get one!?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Dashes are soooooo yesterday. :lol: It's all about minimalism these days. :wink:

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> Dashes are soooooo yesterday. :lol: It's all about minimalism these days. :wink:


I'm just an old school kinda guy!



NickG said:


> Oooo La Laaaa! Where can i get one!?


Speak to Nikki at Banbury Flocking, £140, you provide your dash, 2 day turnaround - +44 1280 704411 / [email protected]

The cool thing about flocking is that you can do it to anything, so, if I eventually get round to making a switch panel and some ally door cards, I'll get them flocked as well :twisted:


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Little bit of an update - mostly menial stuff, but all necessary in the grand scheme of things!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice work! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

The wiring thing can be daunting, at least you've pruned it yourself from the outset. Nothing worse that trying to figure out someone else's work. My previous project was started by a guy in the States; my catalyst for sorting the wiring was a fire breaking out when driving soon after it arrived here. Once I got into it I found he'd cut through the redundant a/c part of the loom with what must have been bolt cutters. The fire tuned out to be his work connecting the heated rear screen into the electric mirror circuit! Concentrates your mind when your doing 70mph and you can see flames coming out from under the dash. [smiley=fireman.gif] 

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Wow, that must have been a scary experience, did you keep a fire extinguisher in there?

I'm not sure I've done everything right though, I just found that I cut the passenger footwell accelerometer sensor and can't find the other part of the cable...

Let's hope this guy Friday is good ha ha


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Fitted one after the refit. Nice 2.5kg jobbie. Those small ones are worthless. Once saw a guy _half_ put out a fire in his car with one. :?

The auto guy should be able to sort it. My accelerometers went early on, I just cut and sealed the wires back to the sill looms.

Did you open the main loom before removing stuff or the other way round? I'm in that half-pregnant stage at the mo, so can't decide whether to remove things and sort the wiring later or do it as I go. OEM wire weighs a tonne.

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I'm currently looking into the cost of Aluminum or maybe PVC door cards (If KarlD has his way, Carbon Fibre... If only he was funding this!!). Looking at about 1.2-1.5kg a side!

How have you kept the window up then?

Also, could you core drill the supports to lose more weight, or is that asking for trouble?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

If we bought 3 sets of plastic side windows (inc quarters) could we not machine screw them in place and dump off the regulator frames?

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So doesnt the accelerometers talk to the ecu in relation to the ABS speed sensors? did you remove the one under the rear seat and the one under the dash as well? I was stressing I had cut mine but if you've removed yours that fills me with some hope.

I started to open the cable wraps and separate them out until I could happily work between them, I then started to trace back all items that I am not using and put white tape around the ones I want to keep, its surprising how much I don't need, there is lots to come out. Some things I managed to cut and leave hanging.

So far the car thankfully still starts and runs so I haven't broken anything that stops running - yet.

As for the windows, I made sure they were up when I started pulling things out, they stay up because the frame is already there supporting it, I am going to find a way to secure them in place though as I don't want them crashing down midway on track. I guess some bolts, cable ties or some such. I spoke to the guy about the lexan windows and it appears the donor car he was going to see has bailed, so I need to get down there at some point.

The problem with just having fixed widows is the curvature and the seal, if any air gets in they will flap about, you can get support struts to pull them in, but its not ideal


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

1781cc said:


> So doesnt the accelerometers talk to the ecu in relation to the ABS speed sensors? did you remove the one under the rear seat and the one under the dash as well? I was stressing I had cut mine but if you've removed yours that fills me with some hope.


Yep, all that stuff went early on. No warning lights and no codes.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > So doesnt the accelerometers talk to the ecu in relation to the ABS speed sensors? did you remove the one under the rear seat and the one under the dash as well? I was stressing I had cut mine but if you've removed yours that fills me with some hope.
> ...


Right, I know what I am pulling out tomorrow then! thanks


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

My n/s door central locking died a while back, so removing all that guff is next on my list. How are you dealing with the fuel filler?

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I have isolated the cables to it, it's literally a live and earth, so gonna wire it into a momentary switch and done, as far as I can tell, that was all that I needed the CCU for, I unplugged the CCU and it stopped working so I know it's that


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Cool! And simples too. Think I might just run with the manual pull in the light recess.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I saw that, mine didn't work?!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

You are pulling it up? ..(looks like the wrong direction)

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Err... no! That'll explain it ha ha - Thanks


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

:roll: Brilliant! :lol:

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So, its been a while since I last updated the thread but I have been busy&#8230; electrics have been the order of the day as the loom as been stressing me out for ages, carrying additional weight around, have load on the system that goes nowhere, problem solving in future would be a pain with the loom the way it was, so I set about unpicking the whole lot - with the help of my trusty Bentley manual, which I have to advocate as a majorly helpful asset for a minimal outlay - everyone with a TT should own a Bentley manual!

started by unclipping the fuse box as loads of these will be coming out










removed the rear screen heating elements as well as crap from the rear window










Dash came back back from being flocked, when I was on track in October I found glare to be a problem, so quite pleased at the results of the flocking, quick turnaround too from Nikki over at Banbury flocking




























Whilst I was under the dash I managed to save another 3kg from a tracker unit I never even knew was installed - I wonder who has been getting any signals on where I have been going ha ha










Loom all picked apart and marked up with what to remove, comfort control unit out, all door electrics, no heating system so the loom for that has gone as well, I've been relying on the mechanical boot pull for a while, no airbag so the ECU is gone, accelerometers, etc&#8230; so pulled those and all electrics, everything that does control the car drive, stopping, steering or fuelling can go as long as the bare essentials are remaining for the MOT



















I didn't bother taking loads of pics for what came out, but you can imagine 3 piles like this, plus all securing plastic brackets










Loom is about an inch in diameter now, which is considerably less then it was!

Talking of brackets, anything that isn't required now aside from the dash support bar and steering mount has been trimmed off.










I have ordered a lightweight heater from demon tweaks and that should be here before xmas, along with a bulkhead hose adaptor and some laser cut plates that came through courtesy of Nick the G man, until the heater is here and some ducting from Car builder solutions its a case of having the old heater matrix just floating in the ether and some holes in the bulkhead

/IMG_5004_zpssoalz22c.jpg

I had an electrician come out to trace back all cut wires to the fuse box and remove anything else I had missed, check my work and provide a reading on the amount of cold crank draw, running draw and static draw that the car uses so I can measure up the right lithium battery ahead of the relocation to the N/S rear arch quarter so I can offset some weight from the front there. Yet to order the battery, hoping it'll go into a new year sale 

Fitted the dash back in and console to test that it all works and she drives fine, all good

12v feed ready to go for the heating system, momentary button wired in for the petrol filler cap as well, additional 12v feed ready for my 12v to 3A twin USB ports - this will help power the go pros so I don't have to stress about swapping batteries all the time and can charge my phone to the circuit










Looking at more things to save from the rear of the car, I finally got round to taking off the rear towing eye assembly, I missed this first time round, I have no idea why - complete with stones left over from my Donnington Gravel trap visit 










These came in the post for a nice shiny coolant system










That's it, more to come before the year is out


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Nice. And now that you know what draw you have you can spec up a smaller, lighter alternator. Could be kg just sitting there.

VT


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## Antthony (Jul 29, 2016)

Wow that's looking ace mate


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

That's some effort gone into that!


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## willbaroo (Feb 10, 2016)

Looking impressive buddy!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Holy flock!!!

Looking epic bud, I've been spraying up rivets for the hose connector plate, I don't know why as you'll never see it :lol:

Love how much wiring you've ditched, I'm tempted to trim mine down further, I've only cut and taped stuff back to where it meets the main loom, haven't dared open the main loom.... yet!!


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## Adam-R (Dec 17, 2016)

What a great build thread, you've put a lot of time and effort into this!

I read through it all and enjoyed the videos especially.

Good job and keep it up!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Good progress on the interior!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for comments peeps, I'm glad to see the back of it but worth it long term, especially if I develop any electrical related problems as it's a quick thing to check now as it's only insulated by black PVC

It trying to get everything non-Bhp related sorted first!


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Looking good, bud. Wish I had 1/10th of your ability around the car. Not to mention the physical space to do it in. Gotta love '60s terraced houses with _en block_ (i.e. shite) garages. :?

Not so sure about the CM hoses, though. Probably be fine for these lesser ones - although the coolant will get hot. Hopefully not too hot for them. 

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Mondo said:


> Looking good, bud. Wish I had 1/10th of your ability around the car. Not to mention the physical space to do it in. Gotta love '60s terraced houses with _en block_ (i.e. shite) garages. :?
> 
> Not so sure about the CM hoses, though. Probably be fine for these lesser ones - although the coolant will get hot. Hopefully not too hot for them.


I really don't have that much skill, I am just learning as I go, its pure trial and error my side but I suppose with a non-cosmetic track car you can be a bit rough around the edges, make mistakes and learn this way.

With regards to the hoses, I understood that SFS hoses supply to creation motorsports, they certainly look to be really solidly constructed and in any case, I am sure that they are better than 15 year old original hoses. Worth a try at least, the full coolant set was only £140 - I'll post how I get on with them.

To further add to my comments above, I have never done anything with coolant before, other than top ups, so draining, replacing hoses, refilling and burping is going to be something new, learning as I go


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

First dry non-freezing day and its time for a quick update, I went outside today and spent 3 hours sorting a few things

Flocked steering wheel cowling arrived, so fitted that along with an OMP WRC wheel in suede with an OMP Boss kit





































Fitted a Mishimoto weighted gear knob, mainly because it will increase the length some and I had it left over from my Jap Car days










Engine cover was messy, so took it all apart and replaced it with the one I had powder coated in the garage



















I was going to try and drop the coolant over xmas and do all the hoses, but I've been snowed with work and its just not going to happen at this rate, so she's booked into VRS for the end of Feb in order to have all the hoses swapped and the heater plumbed in - I am snowed till then so no choice really or she will never get back on the road.


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## Icemanfr (Jan 10, 2006)

1781cc said:


>


What hose brand is that please??


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Creations Motorsport - bought direct from them via ebay, havent fitted yet but they look solid


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Progress report... all good except one little thing: no ABS, read on...

So I managed to finally get some free time to work on the TT, which is a good thing as we are fast approaching track day weather. First step was to turn my attention to the engine bay and finally get the hoses fitted, looks pretty good IMO and more than anything, I dont want any old hoses going pop when I am on track, last time out a Clio dropped its blood all over the start finish straight, making it nice and slippy for the rest of us.




























Being as the coolant had been dropped to accommodate the hoses, it made sense to plumb in the heating system - wow, these lightweight demon tweaks heaters kick out some serious power, its not so solid on idle, but anything over 1500rpm when the engine is pushing hot water through the small core its pretty solid. I need to tidy up the wiring and channel some ducting towards the central part of the dash as my main reason for having a heater in the first place is to demist the windows. I have no doubt this is up to the task.



















Finally, the original battery gave up the ghost, it kept dying after a single crank, even after spending weeks on the CTEK, even a deep cycle didn't fix the problem, so it was aa good excuse to throw down £100 on an Odyssey PC680 and a cage for it. Several locations were looked at as for placement in the car, including the staying where the original one was then the passenger rear arch cowling, but there wasnt anywhere to fit the cage that didn't involve drilling holes in the outer bodywork and I didn't fancy that. The rear is also quite difficult as there isn't much of a flat surface aside from where the bit above the fuel tank and I didn't fancy dropping that for fitment. The most logical place was in the flat space at the base of the passenger footwell. The battery is so small that it really isn't an issue, and as that seat is on sliding runners, it presents no issues at all with movement.














































Due to the relocation of the battery, a kill switch seemed like the most obvious thing to have as well, £6 from ebay with 2 keys means I had no excuse.

I need to make a panel up now or work out a way of getting all the buttons into the dash holes. I think a panel would be easier as it means I wont need to pull things through every time I take the dash out, at the moment I like the simplicity of 4 bolts and the dash is off.

Finally, my ABS light and Traction control light is on permanently, bearing in mind that I coded out the ESP via VCDS, it seemed odd that its showing an error. Anyways, I tried all I could to solve it, but in the end got VRS in northampton to look at it. Diagnosis? the two under dash accelerometer sensors I removed plumb into the ABS, so with them missing it kills the ABS. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I left the wiring in for the steering column one, but I think I removed the wiring on the passenger side!! I also sold the sensors to someone on here, bit of a pain, as now I need to buy two new sensors, brackets and retrofit to get the ABS back.

I knew it was too good to be true pulling all that wiring out and not making a mistake. live and learn.

Finally, I went to the local dump to weigh the car again, thinking that without the big battery (16kg for original, 7kg for Odyssey), the towing eye (2kg?), all the wiring (no idea), dash routing metal points (1kg?), window motors (3.5kg), heating system (7kg?), etc it would be lighter than the 1240kg that was showing last time. I was wrong, she's put weight on - fat bitch. this time she tipped the scales at 1280kg, which seemed odd. in any case I knew that this time she had half a tank of petrol and I normally weigh her just on the start of the reserve, but still, even if you factor in 30 litres of fuel at 1kg per litre, I could maybe knock 30kg off that amount, but that would still mean 1250kg. The weigh bridge operator said he didn't know when it was last calibrated, but it wasnt recently, he also said that the scales have 20kg increments and it registers 20kg when empty, so I guess I wont have an accurate figure until she goes onto some proper scales.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Does anyone have the part numbers for the dash sensors? Im specfically looking for the passenger side under dash/glovebox one and the steering column one.

Thanks


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Nice work dude! Don't get hung up on the weigh bridge thing I'm sure it'll be to do with the accuracy of the scales! 20kg increments really aren't much good for weighing our cars and I'd guess they probably have a big margin for error too! If you've taken weight out, it's lighter, that's the main thing.

Glad the heater works well too! How did you end up wiring the electrics side all in?

Regarding the sensors, are they little gold looking things right by the dash bar??


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes mate, they are actually black held in place by gold clamps, square! Bloody things.

Electrics in the heater were easy, earth it to the car, live from a leftover fused like from when I took the loom stuff out that was redundant, interrupted by a switch, on off, no other nonsense lol


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Yes mate, they are actually black held in place by gold clamps, square! Bloody things.


I'll have a look tonight and grab part numbers for you dude


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Top banana, I hope I can find some without resorting to TPS - worth knowing you need to keep them, I think VT said his were gone, so I followed his lead, but I guess he meant the crash sensors on the footwell (which aren't needed)


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> Does anyone have the part numbers for the dash sensors? Im specfically looking for the passenger side under dash/glovebox one and the steering column one.
> 
> Thanks


Specsman to the rescue!

Can't help with part numbers but there is a bloke in Darlaston, West Midlands, who breaks a whole TT, mk1, most weeks.

Andy 07572 423575

Mention Specsman, (my business is local to Darlo) and he would probably charge extra!

Hope you sort it.

Specsman 8) (had your seat heater switches)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks Specs, will wait for Gangsta G's part numbers then drop him a line 8)


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Any help?

Up to 2002 VIN 8N-2-014400, separate sensors were used:
G251 = longitudinal accelerometer = 1J0-907-651-A (Quattro only?)
G202 = Yaw rate = 1J0-907-657-A
G200 = lateral accelerometer = 1J0-907-651A (Same P/N as G251, but mounting is turned)

After that VIN, they were combined into a single sensor:
G419 = 7H0 907 652 (quattro)
G419 = 7H0 907 655 (fwd)

Sensor(s) are as described above, under dash cover, by the pedal cluster on right side of steering column.

Not my work :?

So, having skilfully removed the bracket holding my (one, dual purpose) sensor in place :roll: do I need it back in the same location and plane or can I just cable tie it up somewhere? Everything in my head says the former.

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

In addition to VTs info I have I pic of the number of my passenger side one, couldn't find anything on the drivers side though! :?:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hmmm, too many part numbers for a 4 pints of IPA iPhone session but will look tomorrow - thanks guys. I know mine had two for sure, I sold them to Boruki on the forum, one under dash top left near glovebox, second under dash on the steering column to the right. I'll drop these into Etka tomorrow and see what I can figure out, mine is a 2001 and in typical Audi fashion has combined pre and post face lift bits.

My guess is it's the steering one that is most pertinent because I do t recall seeing errors till that one was gone and the other I think was already removed!?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

So gents, I have mine dangling from the loom, do I need to get it back square and level for everything to work?

VT


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

The last time you had it weighed and it was 1240kg might have been due to favour for the scrapper... The lighter the scales read, the less they have to pay so it's always going to be calibrated to show either spot on or lighter than is true.

The chance of it saying it's heavier than it is, is very close to zero as then they'd be giving away too much money/'kg'. I assume the 1280kg to be correct and the 1240kg before you removed anything perhaps a little shady from the weigh-bridge.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I know the guys there so I don't pay anything, but I don't doubt that as a practice that happens. I'm going to do the windows this year, bunch of other stuff then see where she's at


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> I know the guys there so I don't pay anything, but I don't doubt that as a practice that happens. I'm going to do the windows this year, bunch of other stuff then see where she's at


If we get another windy spell, you will have to rope it down if it gets any lighter!  :lol:  :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Sensor ordered (gonna try the 1 first on the steering column) for £46 delivered.

Trackday booked for this Saturday at Bedford Autodrome, its forecast for rain, 96% humidity and 11mph winds... great! time to put the car through her paces as its been nearly 6 months and loads has been done.

Semi slicks as well ha ha :evil:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Supplier let me down, sensor didn't arrive in time and I thought I would try to give it a go without ABS anyway, bad idea... got to the track, did the briefing then exploratory laps, as soon as I used the pedal with any force I barrelled on straight - nightmare.

Bearing in mind the track was soaking today, though probably bone dry now, I gave up and came home, no point in trashing the car - yet again, more track day maladies! I weighed up staying on but I wouldn't have got the best out of it, so that's £159 down the drain, but at least no repair costs!

Other then that, the car was great to drive, nicely balanced, pulled strong and the demister worked well, I'm happy overall and think once abs is back online I'll be looking at hoses, downpipe, tip, decat, intercooler and stage 2 map.

Live and learn


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Ooh crikey, caution was definitely the better part of valour. Good decision.

So I retrieved the bracket for my dual purpose sensor, do you think it needs going back in the same position or will things work if it's just connected up?

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

according to VRS back in the same position, the sensor is used to measure things like lean, speed, braking pressure, loads of things. My gut says the one under the column is the one that does the work, because I think the passenger side one has been out for a while and if I recall I didn't get errors, but will need to try and find out. The thing that complicates things is that I err, cut the bracket off for the passenger side under dash one so I might have to cable tie it flat somewhere.

Being as I only have one sensor coming through the post I am going to trial the column one only and see what happens - will report back.

I am gutted I had to abandon but its shown the reliance on ABS braking that is required, I have a fairly sensitive feel for brakes, but the grippy nature of the pads now means its much harder to judge. I have a whole new respect for F1 drivers now as they aren't allowed to run ABS, thats some superhuman level of feel there, and even they still get it wrong sometimes.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Nightmare, did you just lock up and straight off then? Semi-slicks and wet tracks aren't the best, but without ABS I bet that was fun!

Get them sensors back in and see how she goes.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I managed to avoid getting off, but literally braking at about 40-50% in a straight line before a corner meant lockup and steaming straight on, on the exploratory laps you aren't gunning it anyway, so plenty of time to correct but I just had no confidence in the braking at all.

Worth knowing.

Sensors on the footwells are crash sensors
Sensors under the dash and steering column are ABS linked accelerometers

Who knew?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I too cut off the bracket so I'm thinking of making a new one from ally angle and attaching it to the column somehow.

I wonder how they got that silver race car project running sucessful after they removed the ABS?

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

If i remember you're on Nankang NS2R's, i wonder if it's a combo of cold(ish) tyres, new better pads and (Dont take this the wrong way) inexperience of driving without ABS? Not saying i'd do any different, i just wonder why they are locking up so easily as there are other cars that have deleted ABS without (reported) issue. :?

Was it Front's or backs that were locking?

My other note, is that they NS2R's i found to be pretty damn good in the wet, considering all the negative reviews i'd read about semi-slicks, i was pleasantly surprised last year at Blyton Park when it hammered/hailed it down!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

It's a valid comment, but I've driven at Bedford in the rain twice and Donnington as well, the tyres were fine, being grippy as expected but the fronts just kept locking and plowing ahead, I've driven non abs cars before and not had issues, granted, not with this CF level of pad.

I found I just couldnt be progressive with the pedal without locking, she bit inistially the. Really sunk in and locked the wheels

I tried to not waste £160 believe me, but it was there


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It's a strange one isn't it! So what pads are you running now, front and back?

I'm racking my brains as to what it could be, if it was the ABS kicking in when it shouldn't then it'd be easy to blame the ESP being out due to the sensors.

I don't suppose you tried pulling the fuse for the ABS to deactivate it entirely?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

The ESP is hard coded out, ABS light is on in the dash, I have no abs at all, I haven't pulled the fuse but VRS investigated it last time and said the abs was disabled because of the missing sensor input, that tallied with the lockups, cadence braking didn't help as she bites straight away, I'm running ds3000 all round on solid brembo group n discs


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

You're making me more glad I didn't chuck my ABS out when struggling with it recently!

Need to do try hard coding out, does it feel good?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Does the ABS have any affect on the Haldex?

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Yeah, well the wheel speed sensors atleast do have an input, I believe if you delete the ABS then you have to find a way to use the haldex stand-alone.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

That is correct, no ABS, no Haldex. You have to go standalone to regain Haldex if ABS is disabled.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Even more explanation for shooting off, only FWD grip, ballache but good research!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Can anyone kindly help by taking some pictures of their accelerometers in the fixed position please? I need to know for placement so they register correctly. I have sourced one for the steering column but not sure how it attaches and what position. It also didn't solve my problem... so I guess I need the other side as well.

Thanks


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I shall see what i can do tonight! 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks buddy, I have ordered a second sensor and bracket for the passenger side of ebay, I have a connector, but its not wired in, so then that will need to happen to get it all working sweet so I can have haldex and abs back and working.

Expensive mistake so far...

£46 - sensor
£45 - sensor & bracket
£159 - failed trackday

and counting...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Hope these help dude!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Top man, thanks Nick!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

No problem, I hope this successfully cures the issue! 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Quick update... VRS have wired in the replacement sensors and its cured the ABS fault in the ECU, however, I still have no haldex, so somewhere along the line I have royally managed to balls my car up chopping things out of the loom. They are still investigating at this stage.

One thing that may be a factor is that the rear wheel bearing is boll**ksed and I know it reads from the speed sensor on there, so having the bearing done while they are in there.

Wish id never chopped the loom up now! [smiley=argue.gif]


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> Quick update... VRS have wired in the replacement sensors and its cured the ABS fault in the ECU, however, I still have no haldex, so somewhere along the line I have royally managed to balls my car up chopping things out of the loom. They are still investigating at this stage.
> 
> One thing that may be a factor is that the rear wheel bearing is boll**ksed and I know it reads from the speed sensor on there, so having the bearing done while they are in there.
> 
> Wish id never chopped the loom up now! [smiley=argue.gif]


A mate of mine rallies 3 series BMW's.

He buys a loom that is modified to remove all the unnecessary weight; he recons that this saves 25kg in a Beemer!
That's a bag of cement!

If such a thing exists for a Titty; would this resolve some problems, or cause more?

Hope you sort it; love reading about your adventures!

Specsman. 8)


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

My mate has one fitted in his aircooled 911. Upside...weighs 2.5kg, downside...cost £2.5k fitted  :?

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Our plan is to get the thing running, then cut a wire at a time, check it's working, cut the next one etc.

It'll take a while but i can't see another way of getting it right :?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Wiring diagram Nick?

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I followed a wiring diagram as best I could - what a nightmare. [smiley=book2.gif]

Its proving to be an expensive error so far. Your way sounds best Nick


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Von Twinzig said:


> Wiring diagram Nick?
> 
> VT


Yeah I'll use one of them! It's the weird stuff that's linked when you don't think it ought to be that catches you out.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I was just going to strip the central locking and mirrors plus the partially cut back radio guff. The a/c stuff is a bit more scary as it was linked to a bunch of sensors that populated the climate control codes.

VT


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Got the car back, abs is all working now, light is off.

Traction control light is on and a 65535 error in the system with VCDS that won't clear, points to airbag (none present) or haldex, but I was thinking, the powertrack over rides it and locks it in AWD mode right? Booted it home and never lost traction in heavy rain.

Ignore the code?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Got the car back, abs is all working now, light is off.
> 
> Traction control light is on and a 65535 error in the system with VCDS that won't clear, points to airbag (none present) or haldex, but I was thinking, the powertrack over rides it and locks it in AWD mode right? Booted it home and never lost traction in heavy rain.
> 
> Ignore the code?


It shouldn't do, the insert only makes it full 50/50 split whenever the ECU requests any rear torque... when 100% is front baised it shouldn't be sending anything rearwards even with the insert (At least that's my understanding!)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hmm, I'm gonna axle stand her and shove her in gear and see what happens


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Hmm, I'm gonna axle stand her and shove her in gear and see what happens


In theory that would spin all 4 as it would be detecting 'slip' from the fronts... good way to test if you are getting rearwards power!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Yep, the insert switches to 50/50 when the fronts slip, prior to that it's 100% front biased. I suspect when it's in the air it'll be front wheels only driving. In truth I have no clue. 

VT


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

NickG said:


> Our plan is to get the thing running, then cut a wire at a time, check it's working, cut the next one etc.
> 
> It'll take a while but i can't see another way of getting it right :?


That would take forever! 

It's not that bad, if a wiring dummy like myself can do it, anyone can. [smiley=baby.gif]


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Madmax199 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Our plan is to get the thing running, then cut a wire at a time, check it's working, cut the next one etc.
> ...


Yeah, maybe not literally one wire at a time, but probably a connected bunch at a time! :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

OK, so now I am confused, but clear...










the error code clearly says there is a problem, but the evidence suggests otherwise...

*VIDEO -->* 




Any tips? I am tempted to just ignore the code and leave it, as its shared with the Airbag as an Integer 16 code (thanks search function) I believe my error is down to the fact that the airbag is not there, but it doesnt explain the ESP light on the dash, even though the ESP was coded out via VCDS. It couldnt reset itself could it?


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

Are the accelerometers plugged in and working/calibrated? Rosstech suggests looking at these
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/65535

Sorry I can't be of more help


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Appreciate the help mate. Yes, the accelerometers are all in and working - those dash/column mounted. The floor ones are not as they are as I understand it crash/airbag ones only. My ABS works fine but didn't before because I chopped out the dash/column sensors.

I'll check wiring to the haldex at the weekend, but clearly thats working as the wheels are a spinnin.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

My memory has done you a favour here! Remembered something on Facebook in the week!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks Nick, good to know. My gut was telling me from the start to ignore it but good to have it confirmed. It's that niggling voice in the back of your head - I'm over it after reading that! Thanks


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So I was right in thinking that I could ignore the error - the car behaved faultlessly at the weekend up in Blyton. 2 hour drive there the night before, hard day of driving and then a 2 hour return, generally good as gold aside from a slight hesitancy or misfire towards the end of the session, but considering I was one of four TTs there on the day and I manage to get away without a broken coolant pipe, driveshaft or boost leak I am going to count my blessings as thats what everyone else seemed to be suffering with.

The old Kingfisher (now Dave & Andy) owned TT was present and it was a great car to poke around, its given me some serious food for thought on additional weight savings and things I can do to improve mine without much cash outlay, which will hopefully leave more in the pot as I am now in desperate need for more power. I could really feel it at a circuit like Blyton where its narrow and you get swallowed up on the short straights by cars you are way quicker than in the corners. I have a forge intercooler purchased and arriving later today so thats the first step in this whole process.

I also noticed that for the first time I had quite a bit of understeer, so there is room for setup improvements there, I am thinking suspension change, adjustable top mounts, a proper counterweighting session and probably defcons/cookbots. At the moment I am limited to how my setup can be adjusted because negative camber is difficult for me to attain at the front on the setup I have.

Considering I didn't know the circuit before I arrived I feel that a fastest lap time of 1:20 is pretty respectable given the 250bhp and 301nm that the car is currently running. Brakes were excellent as were the tyres, I love this DS3000 and NS2R combo, feels nice and reliable. The step up in future to Carbotechs and Nankang AR-1s will be interesting when the time comes.

As always its down to cash and that in limited supply at the moment with the S8 being a little demanding lately.

Video as as usual available on my channel here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLiX-Qe4y8FZaW280L7hz1kPwQVVlbCBGh


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Blyton is a great little track! The wiggler for me really highlighted the inherent understeer of the car, the need for more camber and an ARB delete is what i have gone with. The cookbots will help more with steering 'feel' and response then reducing understeer, the increased camber will help significantly though!

1:20 is pretty good going! For reference, in the dry albeit only 7deg C and on my second session of the day, i managed a few 1:21's... then it pissed it down (And we even had hail) and by the end of the day i was lapping 1:24's in the wet. In the wet the wiggler highlights the understeer even more! I'd like to think i could have dipped into the teens throughout the day if it had remained dry. Obviously I have about "50-60 more ponies under the hood" so that'll be where any advantage lays as you say!

Watching through some of the footage currently! 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yeah, I saw times on your videos and thought that I wasn't doing too bad - particularly towards the end of the session when I got held up by some arrogant twat in a radical who just wouldn't let me pass, but let the Ginetta that I let through pass and I still managed to catch him up. I'm guessing he had issues with the car but don't write me off because its a TT lol

The wiggler was fine for me, I started to follow a slightly wider later entry after seeing a race civic do it and it worked out, mine was coming out of Port Froid, I just couldn't get the car to turn more, maybe it was my entry speed previously, although, I didn't gel with the late apex of bunga bunga till about run 4.

I got chatting to a lot of people on the day who were surprised at how well both me and the silver TT were going relative to a lot of other perceived faster machinery there, so that was good.

I liked Blyton but not sure its good enough for all the hassle it is getting there, I think I had more fun on the infield section of Rockingham to be honest


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's because you're obviously a slower car because you have a roof and haven't spent £25k buying... you should have known that. :roll:

Bunga Bunga is the double apex corner isnt it? Did you lift/brake before hitting port Froid, or did you keep it planted? I was getting to just be lifting a touch (Probably could have kept in but for smaller cojones!) then using a bit of grunt to rotate on the exit of Port Froid if i remember.

Annoyingly the session with my fastest laps was also the session where the camera mount failed and smacked me in the head, so i don't have the ability to see where i made the dry session improvements [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I liked the circuit mainly for the amount of laps you can get in in a session, that was my big plus. The circuit is ok, it's not a classic, but its great for testing.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Been quite a busy time on the TT lately, shortly after Blyton park I started to address some of my plans for future, so started stockpiling a few bits, namely blanking plate for the SAI delete, A forge front mount intercooler (that I picked up off the marketplace), a Setrab bracket for the inevitable oil cooler relocation, and started to make a list of the other things I need to buy in order to head for a Stage 2 setup.





































As all this is part of my longer term mechanical knowledge improvement (think of it as a kind of project 1781cc), I made a few errors with the intercooler install that meant I had to remove the "aliens" but in retrospect and after advice on here, it seems that is a moot point as they aren't MOT critical (thanks to all who replied and helped with my query on this)

So, I ditched the side intercoolers and associated pipework, but kept the structural pipe between the two (for the moment). The forge intercooler is now in place and a brief test run meant I was still holding boost as before, but I have gained a theoretical 6bhp alone based on the liquid calculations of the MAF. Every little extra is welcome but its addition is more about longer term growth and headroom.





































The weight saving over the FMIC over the SMIC's is negligible, the Aliens is welcome and I also ditched the second horn ass I only need one for the MOT. I have a track day tomorrow at Bedford, so decided against tinkering too much. but after Bedford it will be full steam ahead and a hold on more track days (my next one will most likely be the Bedford Evo track day in July) so I have a few months to do the N249 delete, DV relocation, SAI delete, EVAP delete, Pipewerx downpipe and decat, Badger 5 tip, vacuum hose upgrades and headlight restoration (purely because they were advisory last time)










I can still see a lot more avenues for weight removal and improvement moving forward, but its starting to get harder to find pounds rather than kilos now outside of the stuff I have already identified.

Anyway, Faisal will be at Bedford tomorrow in Liam's old TT so it will be interesting to see how we both get on with our mules in relation to the other machinery on offer.

I will update post track day with the usual musings, photos and videos.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good day at Bedford on Saturday, had a lot of fun chasing down, passing and leaving a new RS6 in my wake (complete with passenger on board) also tried to stay within rough visual distance of a gorgeous GT3 Porsche 911. Lap times were slower than usual on account of a lot of traffic and quite a lot of newbies circulating but it was a good day and the car behaved faultlessly.

Stage 2 is on the immediate horizon now, I am really struggling on the straights with a lack of power but find that in the corners and on the brakes I am usually a lot quicker than most other machinery. This is most evident when I am all over the back of a car in front and continually on/off the power because you can't pass in corners, but when you get to a passing straight, you struggle to get by, then they hold you up continually in the corners. The RS6 knew this and let me pass, fair play, but some others in R Golfs and M3s weren't so accommodating.

Anyway, videos on my channel here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmNdpC ... eWhitehead

This was my favourite run (with the RS6):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNwc37c ... eWhitehead

Some pics:


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

really enjoyed those videos 

sounds well, pulls nicely too 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks mate, only running 250bhp at the moment but shows the impact of weight on performance.

Can't wait to get more power to play with, I desperately need it now.

By the way, I had a look for an EVAP can under the haldex on a TT that was on the ramps at VRS and we couldn't find anything, I think its all under the bonnet. No photos as nothing to take a pic of!


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

oh ok, that's good news then  cheers ! i did also have a quick peek , all i saw was the exhaust cover/panel so wasn't sure .

you have lost a lot of kg from your car that's quite impressive !


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Lovely pictures. Couldn't help but catch this though.



What rear sway bar are you running, and wheel/tire sizes?


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Lovely pictures. Couldn't help but catch this though.
> 
> 
> 
> What rear sway bar are you running, and wheel/tire sizes?


Good spot .


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Looks like you had a good day, car sounds sweet as well


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Delta4 said:


> Looks like you had a good day, car sounds sweet as well


Agreed, sounds very nice - just watched your videos actually and you're a very competent driver. I hope I'll be as good as you some day 1781cc.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Brilliant footage as ever and some great photos!

How are you finding the balance with a rear wing but no front splitter? No noticeable high speed understeer?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Cheers for the comments guys - and the spot on the rear contact patch. I actually have an R32 bar waiting to go on, just haven't had the time to do it yet, but I think I will get loads done before the next trackday anyway (probably July 7th) so the plan is to get that on there, get a load more weight out and get the Stage 2 bits done.

I think a full suspension overhaul might be in order for next year with some Gaz Golds, adjustable top mounts and so on, dog bone engine mount, short shifters, etc,

Regarding the front, the car is a little understeery but generally changes direction really well, the back feels better planted with the BGW on then when it was off put it that way. This was especially true at Rockingham on the big sweep with the wall on the right hand side - I never felt unstable at speed there, really solid. It could be just psychological but I feel it makes a difference and looks cool-as-f**k (IMO) ha ha

I may look at doing the splitter, but I think I would get less understeer fitting cookbooks/defcons over aero as I still don't have those either... the wing made sense because of the cumulative weight loss from the back and the rest of the weight being front axle based.

One thing I certainly need to address is cabin temperatures as I roast on a medium day, let alone 28 degrees in the summer, it wasn't a problem before but now with the heater matrix being exposed and no cold air feed for me, it needs tackling - thats why my runs where quite short compared to my usual number of runs.


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> One thing I certainly need to address is cabin temperatures as I roast on a medium day, let alone 28 degrees in the summer, it wasn't a problem before but now with the heater matrix being exposed and no cold air feed for me, it needs tackling - thats why my runs where quite short compared to my usual number of runs.


A mate of mine, (rallying a 3 series BMW), has a front and centrally mounted roof scoop, forcing cool air into the cabin, when in motion; controlled internally with a simple flap.

I can find out more from him, if you are interested.

It looks good too!

Keep up the interesting posts; I love all this from the comfort of my armchair!

Regards,

Specsman.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > I can find out more from him, if you are interested.


Please, that would be good - I've thought of something like that, or nana ducts feeding tubes that come back to the driver, but its the cutting of bodywork and rain mix that concerns me, if there is a controllable flap though, thats a much better option


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> SPECSMAN said:
> 
> 
> > 1781cc said:
> ...


Ok, I have had a chat with Roger and he got his roof kit from Peter Lloyd Rallying. He says Demon Tweeks also stock them.

It was £150ish; it is glass-fibre; and he says it works well and it is one component he always fits.

He has video's of himself in action on YouTube. 




He is going too fast to get a really good look! I will try and find a picture of it standing still.

Incidentally, Roger is 69, an inspiration to us all!

Regards,

Specsman


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Oh go on, do it!!!!

A TT with a roof vent will just look MEAN :twisted:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cockpit-ventilation/grp4-fabrications-fibreglass-roof-vent

http://www.trs-motorsport.com/@@content/pub/rtc/document/Instructions for roof vent.pdf

And according to those instructions, it's as easy as you think! :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks Specs, its a good option, I have seen them before, the other one I was considering is when I get plastic windows, having some nada ducts fitted to the rear quarters and feeding a pipe each side that channels air to the front, I could use the cage and cable tie them in place.

The other option was two nada's in the rear glass (when its lexan) doing a similar thing but I think at high speed in the rain it might just channel loads of water into the car ha ha #fail

The roof option with it's drain is a more elegant solution.


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Glad to be of service.
I agree with NickG; it would look bloody cool!

Specsman 8)


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## DC240S (Sep 24, 2014)

Just watched the footage - Brilliant! Sounds a beast!


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## Manimalfloss (Jul 25, 2016)

One of the best threads ive ever read on a forum, although not much of a racer i love the stripped out look of the car.
I can seem my TT ending up on a diet......

Keep up the good work and keep on posting.


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Manimalfloss said:


> One of the best threads ive ever read on a forum, although not much of a racer i love the stripped out look of the car.
> I can seem my TT ending up on a diet......
> 
> Keep up the good work and keep on posting.


Plus one to that [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Cheers for the comments - I think these cars are so over-engineered that even a small diet can make them so much more responsive while still retaining a stock feel, so much potential in these still, even for someone like madmax who has arguably the most extreme TT on here.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Rare to see your own car on track from another car on track, but here goes:


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

You were either flying or the other geezer was in a pedal car! :lol: :lol:

The briefest of looks, but it looks the business.  

Do you have any on board footage to share?

Regards,

Specsman 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

All on my YouTube channel mate, loads of stuff there


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> All on my YouTube channel mate, loads of stuff there


How do I find your items?; tried searching 1781cc - no joy.

I'm too old for this type of thing 

Specsman 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/user/leewhitehe ... eWhitehead


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Been quiet on this build thread for a while, but doesn't mean I haven't been busy&#8230; its been more about motivation to sit and sort photos, etc&#8230; especially in the wake of the photobucketgate scandal.

My engine was pretty gross, I hated working on it sometimes because it was so disgusting, I mean, its not a shower and never will be - all the stone chips from my Donnington trip to the gravel took care of that&#8230; but I did want to make the engine work more effectively on the cooling side and 100K worth of miles, oil spills, previous owner letting the rocker leak, etc&#8230; meant the block was caked in oil, the injectors had obviously been leaking in the past previously because the inlet manifold had dirt around it, but obviously a petrol haze had cleared some parts of it, loads more but its boring.


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Basically, clean the engine thoroughly improves thermo heat dissipation and makes it nicer to work on for me.

so&#8230; jet wash done, hand clean the rest, green gunk, etc.

Then replace hoses, basically ended up buying nearly all of the hoses Creation Motorsports make for this car, the breather system had already been done by Wak during my remap, so I knew that was all sound, I know some people moan about Creations Motorsports but having run their coolant pipes for over 6 months and had no issues so went all in. fit was a little off in places and required trimming, but after the Badger 5 experience, I realise thats par for the course with silicon pipes. I've trimmed a fair whack.

Removed a bunch of weight from the car as well, redundant brackets that I missed previously for the arch liners, clips for the thermostat in the lower bumper, N249 and all the gubbins, Evap canister and gubbins, brackets&#8230;


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The list:

ASH blanking plugs for inlet from Evap and 4th fuel box pipe
CM Upper boost pipes
CM Crankcase breather pipe
CM vacuum hoses
CM DV Boost hoses


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I decided to spray the charge pipe in VHT Aluminuim paint, its not going to improve performance but it looks neater, I will be eventually replacing this with a trackslag pipe but have other things ahead of it.


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I couldn't even see the coolant in the expansion tank, so I fitted a new one and didn't spill a drop - quite the feat for me with liquids - but the new one from ECP looks much better - I just need to burp the system now and get any airlocks out.


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I also realised that although I haven't had any cooling issues in ages, be it FMIC, Oil or coolant, it pays to get more fresh air in the front - so I decided to Velcro attach my pressed plate on the front, then core drill the bumper underneath so that I have a better flow of air. I didn't want to make a hash of the structural strength by removing the crash bar, so I primered it and sprayed it satin black so it doesn't look glaring, but as soon as I whip the numberplate off once I have got to the track I have much more airflow into the bumper and hopefully around the crashbar. Maybe I have increased drag a little but I wont notice - I'm not that sensitive! ha ha


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Whilst the front was off I looked at the headlights, they suffered a little over the year and are pitted so a guy I know called Steff who is an affordable detailer - good work, not crazy prices and he cleaned, sanded, buffed and clear coated the lenses for me, had them overnight - £40 all in! results speak for themselves:

If you want to drop him a line, you can find his company "Gloss my ride" on Facebook and Instagram


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Another factor in this whole process was making sure when I go on trackdays I don't have to cart a load of tools around, I will always need some, but I have to think of making like easier. So I have replaced nearly all the nuts and bolts on the front end with things that are either a 10 or 13 size, any torx bolts have been replaced with a 5mm allen key bolt, including the headlight botls, everything - this way I only need a flat head screwdriver, a 10 and 13 socket and a 5mm allen + wrench, fuses and jubilee clips / cable ties when I do a track day. This means I can even have the front bumper off with 6 bolts and 4 nuts - without taking the wheels off or jacking the car. This means fixing boost pipes, oil cooler leaks etc will be a quick 10 minute job.

Probably doesn't seem like much to most, but for me its a major improvement.










More to come this week on the interior if the weather holds out...


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

Good work on the engine bay, I know it's a track car but just for ease of spotting any issues with leaks, it has to be worth it and from my side also good to see the results of other people's ideas.


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Nice job, you're absolutely right about the front needing more airflow. It's going to pay huge dividends on the track having more airflow to your coolers.

At this point, why not just leave a small edge for your front plate and cut off everything else in the middle? Maximize your real estate.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Nice job, you're absolutely right about the front needing more airflow. It's going to pay huge dividends on the track having more airflow to your coolers.
> 
> At this point, why not just leave a small edge for your front plate and cut off everything else in the middle? Maximize your real estate.


I did toy with that idea, but I have some cunning plans in place for the front bumper with air ducting and cooling - all will be revealed in due corse.

Its a shame there is a bloody big crash bar across there, that would flow so much nicer without, but I quite like the use of my legs...


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## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

great read thanks for making time to write it .


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

1781cc said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > Nice job, you're absolutely right about the front needing more airflow. It's going to pay huge dividends on the track having more airflow to your coolers.
> ...


What crashbar?


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

ady117 said:


> great read thanks for making time to write it .


+1

I will probably never get the time and energy to do this; but I am a with you in spirit!
Thanks for posting everything.

Specsman 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Glad its not boring everyone!

I know some say you don't gain much from the N249 and EVAP system removal but add that to the neuspeed surround, the pollen filter and arch liner brackets and I beg to differ at 4.6kg










Also, the aliens (Washers) at 1.55kg:










Coolant burped, resistors in - no CEL lights #WIN

Strange hair like stuff came out of the back of the exhaust on startup, quite a bit of it, so I can only assume thats the contents of the backbox extracting itself? any one have any ideas?

Finally, seats are out now and tomorrow I will be getting the angle grinder going to shed some more weight and to make the car less painful (meaning all the little screw attachments that are poking around the car where trim used to attach to are being chopped off because I keep catching my hand on them, as well as the headlining attachments on the roof)


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

On the subject of weight; what was your last recorded total weigh-in?

(The car, not the driver!)

Power:weight ratio?

Specsman 8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> On the subject of weight; what was your last recorded total weigh-in?
> 
> (The car, not the driver!)
> 
> ...


I honestly don't know, it appears that the car put on 40kg when I last went to the weigh bridge, despite having had a load more stuff out - I've since abandoned using that as a guide and am waiting to weigh the car on some proper motorsport scales soon to get an idea of where I am and what more I can do.

There are still some quick wins knocking around weight wise...

- Replace intercooler crossover pipe with a structural brace custom fabricated
- Remove internal brackets that are unused but spot welded into the car
- Replace doorcards with flat metal sheets
- remove some remaining sound deadening in the doors and where the heater used to be

Anything more that that I fear is going to get into the realms of medium to considerable outlay:

- lexan windows and rear glass (which will half the glass weight, but also lose a sizeable chunk of crap inside the door frame)
- floating 2 piece brake discs
- lightweight wing mirrors
- uprated clutch and SMF
- replace existing exhaust system for a lighter custom setup

I still have some other plans and things to do with ducting, airflow, a forge quick and side-shift kit thats been sitting here for a while, some interior convenience mods, some wiring, etc...

I also need to get the car counterweighted properly when its empty so that it registers my weight with ballast and then they adjust all the suspension on each corner to compensate and balance the car.

After that it'll probably be a turbo upgrade, remap, carbotech XP12 fronts and XP10 rears, spare wheels with slicks, replace all the suspension with Gaz Golds and adjustable top mounts, alignment and corner weighting again, etc...


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Just being picky, but what about the coolant level.arent you carrying around extra water/g12.
That plastic box with one relay in it(just under the strut connector bar.
You can take that out and house the relay in the wiring loom cover... or maybe your wating to fit a wmi pump there , that of course is a good bit heavier


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hmmm, all observations welcome - that box? I didn't know what that was so will investigate it, thanks for the tip!

The coolant level is normal now, I had an airlock when I swapped a pipe after the expansion thank, it's all good.

Any other things I can remove?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

From me?
:lol: I dunno.
Im not a weightmeister type.
eg 
wheels n tyre weights 
My standard audi 17 in wheels weigh about 44lbs each.The 20 in wheels weigh about 57 lbs each.
I have 16 in renault standard steel wheels which weigh approx 32 lbs each(which I could fit on the TT , due to the vagaries of the pcd adapters I have etc.
Tyre weights the 20 in ones are heavier cos of width/more steel in the belts n so on :roll: 
I could save like 100lbs+ on the wheels n tyres alone in the morning and thatd be unsprung weight saving.. but Im a slave to appearance so Im not gonna do that :lol: wouldnt look cool


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Great updates Lee

What have you got in mind for the Turbo upgrade?

I've been pondering the same, possibly over winter, and accompanied by WMI.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

FJ1000 said:


> What have you got in mind for the Turbo upgrade?


Still undecided at the moment, research points to the BBT K418T, means I can run it below 300hp and sensible torque till I drop rods in and then ramp it up to about 350hp and loads more torque. I think I might be looking at a full suspension overhaul, lexan windows, slicks and counterweighting before then though. Its fine modding the cars and chasing power, but I'm starting to feel that I'd rather be out driving then saving money for mods, not driving and not getting anywhere.

Besides, you can gain some 2-4 seconds a lap on slicks and a turbo wont get me that for the same £££ return.

Aside from my stage 2 dalliances, all my recent mods have been to preserve reliability, make it cool better and strip more weight out.

Talking of which, 3TT3, I followed your hint and took the 428 relay out of the box and relocated it into the plastic loom tunnel, gives me more space in the bay and saves a whopping 207 grams 










Some more hoses and Jubilee clips arrived today so I managed to finish off all the final hose bits in the engine before taking her for a test, she drove faultlessly and registered 1.55 bar of boost and the liquid read 267 bhp and 284 lb ft of torque.










































I do need to reduce some of the coolant level as well though, its risen again to where it was.










I did get an error code on the liquid, which really amused me when I looked it up:










I will know what my power to weight is tomorrow as she is being professionally weighed at a local motorsport company, so that should give me a solid figure of where I am at with weight as well.

However, for guesstimate purposes, if the car weighs 1240kg, and I am running 267bhp then thats 215 bhp per tonne, if I've got the car under 1200kg I'll be made up as that'll put me at 223 bhp per tonne. I do concede that the new hoses are heavier and more solid then the outgoing ones though, so some weight has gone back into the car in the name of reliability.

Next bits to go on the car...


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Remove lead from foot :lol: , a simple and free fix 
engine bay looks tidy


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I have officially got the car down to 1197kg from 1540kg unladen stock weight, thats a saving of 343kg with half a tank of fuel, so allowing for that, the net saving is 365kg over stock.










Also by accident not design, my car doesn't need to be counterweighted as the balance is pretty much there, with 5kg difference on the right hand side which, if I lose 5kg worth of weight myself, will bring it into perfect balance.

Very pleased with this result, brings my to 223bhp per ton, or a 4.48 weight to power ratio 8)


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

:lol: with the plastic box removed you can now have 2 extra bags of crisps when snacking.
The torque and bhp on the liquid TT.Does it just convert the vag com readouts ..the gm/s one and the kg/m(block 120 I think it is) ?
I noticed before, your replacement intercooler to throttle body hose seems to be fatter over the whole length compared to the original rubber one.I wonder is that good for flow/go?
Also the removal of the front cover panels did you get a drop in intake temps/more airflow in around the engine to the airfilter .
Im sure the battery change helped on that, but its not something Ill be doing anytime soon.
The front covers tho ,I wouldnt mind trying that as long as a whole load of spray dirt doesnt come into the engine bay? (+ it would give me more crisp snacks capacity  .


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

That'a a great weight, you should be very proud of your efforts [smiley=cheers.gif].


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> :lol: with the plastic box removed you can now have 2 extra bags of crisps when snacking.
> The torque and bhp on the liquid TT.Does it just convert the vag com readouts ..the gm/s one and the kg/m(block 120 I think it is) ?
> I noticed before, your replacement intercooler to throttle body hose seems to be fatter over the whole length compared to the original rubber one.I wonder is that good for flow/go?
> Also the removal of the front cover panels did you get a drop in intake temps/more airflow in around the engine to the airfilter .
> ...


Dont know about the flow with the fatter throttle body hose as I didn't do any logs before/after, but the liquid is registering the same bhp/tq based on what I take to be MAF calculations, its not been dyno'd officially, I'll do that when it comes to getting the turbo and a few other bits done next year I think.

Similar thing with the filter, although I can say that my overall engine temps are much lower than before I took all the covers and arch liners off, I will be working on a cold air channel setup into the air filter soon as well, so will hopefully do some logs on VCDS before I start and then after, it'll be a while though mate, work is about to go mental and playing with this thing will slow to a snails pace soon.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

More weight saving and a few other minor bits on this update:

fuel tank undertrays (left and right), rear bumper and its two metal plates + bolts, small bracket that used to hold lower engine plastic surround and the surround itself, rear hatch electric pulley = 6.4kg


















Soldered and heat shrinked resistors for the n249 and EVAP system delete:


















Changed the fuel filter (easy access but the tank to filter clip was a bitch)










Found another bracket and some electrical thing under the car, not sure what it is but think its to do with the headlight adjustment, I don't think its ever been connected so looks like it can come off, if it should be connected, whats missing as I presume its an MOT thing?


















Finally, car is on axle stands, I've been going over it with a fine tooth comb making a list of all the other bits that can save weight, I am now down to 1174.6kg on the reserve. I am aiming for a 1100kg target ideally.

I have spotted that there is more to be had in saving:

- Sound deadening on the inside of the rear wheel arches which can only be accessed with the rear light clusters off
- Sound deadening on the inner door skin
- sound deadening on the firewall and footwell that was behind the heater system
- The window subframe can be cut to take the main guts out and still leave room to attach lexan safely.
- Door cards (need to replace with plain sheets and a pull handle
- Lexan on the 3 windows each side of the car and the back
- Single wiper conversion
- Remove all redundant brackets with spot weld drill bit
- Gut the bonnet and hinges and use racing pins to attach
- Core drill non structural metal pieces of the car insides
- Cut headlining attachment brackets off
- Swap front towing eye (stock) for TRS strap towing belt

I am hoping (optimistically) that all the above will bring me to my 1100kg weight goal - if I get there on the same power I am on now, it will bring me to a 243bhp per ton ratio.

Neighbours love my driveway with the Audi TT Allroad :lol:


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Very nice. Congrats on the weight and you did indeed get tremendously lucky with the weight balancing. That's unreal.

You've got a really good weight distribution too compared to the factory! 57.8 / 42.2

Really nice work brotha.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

How's this going then bud? What's the plans over winter, keep it going and sneak a few days in, or are you planning to have her off the road for a bit of work?


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well I'm looking at slicks, so a good set of road tyres for wet running might make winter track days more viable. I plan on getting more weight out and doing some tweaking here and here on doorcards, possibly lexan windows, maybe even flat body but gotta see how it goes.

So far I've spent too much time not driving her on account off fiddling too much, need to readdress that balance this time

How about yours?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Well I'm looking at slicks, so a good set of road tyres for wet running might make winter track days more viable. I plan on getting more weight out and doing some tweaking here and here on doorcards, possibly lexan windows, maybe even flat body but gotta see how it goes.
> 
> So far I've spent too much time not driving her on account off fiddling too much, need to readdress that balance this time
> 
> How about yours?


Yeah likewise, I'm hoping to get my trailer licence done very soon and get some winter trackdays in... we have Quattro so may as well take advantage of the cheap days and gain car control I say! Hopefully I can keep her on the road more going forward!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Do you need a licence to tow now? according to my driving licence plastic, I can drive a 7.5 ton with a trailer (don't fancy that though...)


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

1781cc said:


> Do you need a licence to tow now? according to my driving licence plastic, I can drive a 7.5 ton with a trailer (don't fancy that though...)


It's an age thing!

One small advantage of being older; "Grandfather rights", to drive large trailers and towing vehicles. (and trucks up to 7.5 tonnes)

Young 'uns aren't so lucky; I believe the test with instruction/vehicle hire comes to about a grand. 

Perhaps someone knows the cut off point/age, where you have to take the test?

Specsman 8)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

SPECSMAN said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> > Do you need a licence to tow now? according to my driving licence plastic, I can drive a 7.5 ton with a trailer (don't fancy that though...)
> ...


Yeah I think of you passed pre-1997 you have it by default, I am 10 years too late for that though! It can be very expensive, dependent on how much practice you have had previously (I can tow upto 750kg currently!). I've had a few goes at reverse parking last week and actually went ok 3/3 with one of them completely unaided so that's a good start!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Ah, I see, I passed in 94 so I think I have a full fat licence, finally a positive for getting old...


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

NickG said:


> SPECSMAN said:
> 
> 
> > 1781cc said:
> ...


750k!    :lol:

The TT weight reduction tactics are going to have to be more drastic!

8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

So I finally got to Silverstone on Monday last week, it was a long time coming and its actually my local circuit as I am Northamptonshsire based as well! certainly not cheap at £369 before other costs such as fuel, passenger (my brother wanted a day off work) but it was an experience, loads of Gran Turismo laps meant nothing, there is no experience quite like driving the actual circuit and getting a feel for it...

Firstly, let me rewind and cover off a recent purchases:

I picked ups set of Ultralight 8J 17" wheels with a view to running slicks on them in the new year, the plan being that over winter when its cold and wet, I stand a better chance of doing more cheap days with these on until the new year slick-fest.

Came up with tyres at £350 on fleabay... well pleased!


















































They all fit in with a jack too...


















Sadly, I didn't get a chance to try them as Silverstone was dry and warm all day...

Anyway, back to Silverstone, I got there early, I think I was the 4th car to arrive and setup, which worked in my favour as I was rewarded with an empty garage that I had to share with a TVR, a Boxster, an Exige, an Astra and a Caterham - I bagged a good spot though and everyone in the garage got on well, good atmosphere.


























Some really interesting machinery there on the day too:


































I'll be in the minority, but the Alfa is the one that does it for me

Right, we hit the track having never driven here before, managed some exploratory laps and mainly concentrated on finding a decent balance/grip with the tyres, we just couldn't get a decent setup and only two things changed: having a passenger, and taking all the under trays off the car with a few other bits for weight saving. I tried all possible combinations of tyre pressures, from 28, 30, 32, 34, 30 front 28 rear, and so on... eventually settling on 32 hot all round. The car still felt loose in slower corners and I had to tackle understeer a lot. Its the first time that I have really felt at total odds with the car since starting this process and its quite disheartening.

Still we managed to set good laps, being quicker than two Golf Rs and a VRX220, but what it felt like is a whole other matter entirely...


































Back in the pits, we played around more with temperatures, ride height, even did a few laps without passenger, took some angle off the wing (assuming that more downforce/drag at the back wasn't helping understeer) and tried again


































Went back out and things felt better, but far from ideal, in the end I vowed it was a problem I needed to tackle after the day and persisted with it, and having a good race with a stock GTR

Eventually I will get round to editing and posting videos, I know people don't necessarily want to see full runs, so I'll just pick out some interesting runs.


















In conclusion, the plan is clear, with guidance from Max, Nick and a bunch of others, I have ordered MK2 Ball joints, Silver Project Camber plates, spring compressors and hopefully soon, a set of Gaz Golds with uprated spring rates and custom sizes. Then it'll be deleting both front and rear arbs and doing a full aggressive geometry.

Power is taking a major backseat, although I may need to revisit the mapping as at one point I saw my EGT flash up at 1150deg, which is nonsense... and I had to run lower rpm range for most of the day.

Handling & Weight, Handling and Weight - nothing more, nothing less, she'll be a different beast next time out hopefully!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Great write up - interested in what your current suspension set up is. 
Look forward to seeing how you get on with the additional adjustability you are adding to the front.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks mate, current car is fully super pro polybushed, FK coilovers, stock everything else running neutral geometry on lightweight wheels with NS2-Rs. It's notnideL, I think getting the weight out down has probably clouded my focus, but it's a learning curve!


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## Sd TT (Jan 6, 2016)

I noticed you mention undesteer at silverstone.

Question. When did you get the understeer? Was it on corner entry, mid corner or exit?

Couple of thoughts, I notice you have a rear wing but no front splitter???? I'm no aerodynamics expert but they usually work as a pair otherwise the back gets pushed down and the front goes up creating understeer!? The high speed nature of silverstone really highlights this.

The other thought is silverstone due to its width and high speed, punishes any early turn in.

If it's the slow speed corners it depends which corners. Different reasons for each tight corner. Tarmac being one.

Just some thoughts


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hi mate, thanks for the observations, a front splitter is needed, however, it's come to light that my geometry setup is off (although aligned neutral) I should be running more camber, better springs, castor, etc... so I am planning an overhaul over winter to really push things forward and make the car handle better before things like aero play a factor.

I too thought it might be aero initially but previous track days haven't highlighted this problem despite no other aero changes, I'm going to throw some cash at the car and fix it properly before I go out again.

Will probably test at Bedford in the new year to see what I have improved on


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## Sd TT (Jan 6, 2016)

Sounds expensive.
Not sure if you've done this but, If you're doing another track day before you overhaul may I suggest buying a tyre temp gauge. Measure the temps across the tyre. That will tell you if you've got enough camber or not. If you've got loads more temp on the front shoulder compared to rear shoulder it's not the car but dare I say the driver. Honestly measure tyres that tells you what is happening.

Also if the understeer is on turn in that could be caster. Understeer at the apex could be camber, understeer on exit is either the line or push. So analyse what's and where.

I personally would start with measuring before spending a fortune. But it does take time.

Another point to make is aero doesn't start working till about 80mph generically. Wings create down force, spoilers stop lift, but in either case dependant on car shape at high speed. Hence why some cars with auto spoilers, they don't come up until you're doing 70+

Just a few thoughts, not sure if they help.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

It will be expensive :-(

Thanks for the comments about aero and the tyre temp gauge is a good suggestion, I know you can get those heat camera plugin things for your iPhone, reads temps and you can see the heat pattern too, I might look into one of those as it can be useful in other things I do too. Cant remember whats its called though...

I already have the MK2 balljoints and the Silver Project top mounts, I am going to get them on in any case as it gives me some adjustability, will probably then hit bedford to see if things have improved, and then look at the suspension side of things, going down the route of Gaz Golds and deleting the arb, I'll hopefully have that temp gauge by then too.

Comments about Aero do help, whats your background on all this btw?


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Sd TT said:


> Sounds expensive.
> Not sure if you've done this but, If you're doing another track day before you overhaul may I suggest buying a tyre temp gauge. Measure the temps across the tyre. That will tell you if you've got enough camber or not. If you've got loads more temp on the front shoulder compared to rear shoulder it's not the car but dare I say the driver. Honestly measure tyres that tells you what is happening.
> 
> Also if the understeer is on turn in that could be caster. Understeer at the apex could be camber, understeer on exit is either the line or push. So analyse what's and where.
> ...


Just wanted to comment that this type of help is always welcome on this forum, especially in this section.

Looks like I have added some kind of temp gauge to my wish list . Thinking some kind of IR type would be fine


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I'll second that Matt! Also looking at a temp gauge however a probe type is what I'm looking at, rather then IR.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I'm opting for the IR as it'll make detecting oil and water leaks, house leaks, etc...

Flir One is the thing I couldn't remember...


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## Sd TT (Jan 6, 2016)

Hi guys 
ir or probe work well. I have ir, as its smaller easier to use and keeps hands clean, oh and can use it on anything, even around house.

1781cc not heard of the iPhone attachment either way as long as you get figures and use the same device you'll get the consistency and the info. My back ground is ex race driver and instructure.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Hi Lee, Just having a read through your thread and noticed the problems you had at Silverstone. In particular seeing 1150 degrees on the EGT. Do you have a liquid gauge or similar?.
You may have issues with the EGT sensor on the car and if so this can have a big influence on power, I think EGT protection starts kicking in around 900 decgrees and the ECU starts adding fuel to cool things down which will reduce power, try logging the EGT and see if the value is consistent. If it's flicking around then you may have an issue with the sensor like I did, It's a fairly common fault.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the tip on the EGT, the high reading was an eye opener, only did it the once but made me look more than twice!

Is it a simple enough job to do or a pig?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

It's fairly easy to get at the EGT sensor PCB it's located under the intake manifold. I presume your engine is a BAM.

viewtopic.php?p=8176722#p8176722


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks mate, that's helpful, something to add to my list of things to do, it is a BAM btw


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Rear the thread start to finish! Amazing you could turn the TT into a proper track car


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

silkman said:


> Rear the thread start to finish! Amazing you could turn the TT into a proper track car


Thanks for the feedback, glad you liked the read. Its not where it needs to be yet, but will be by the end of next year if all goes well. If this stuff interests you there is a few good threads in the motorsport from other trackers here and also on the facebook Group!


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## poghead (Apr 19, 2013)

What a great read! Good to see you doing as much weight loss as possible first as opposed to chucking expensive bits at it, keep up the good work, this thread has invaluable knowledge as I'm just at the start of getting mine track ready!

Pog

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

No worries, glad this has helped - I have done more stuff since just not got round to documenting it, hopefully will do soon enough


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Wow... its been nearly a year since I last updated this thread and lots has happened, I've just been really shit at updating the thread, but I have been keeping track of things. This will mainly be a pic update post with some summaries, but if you want to know anything about the specifics of what I've done just ask and I'll answer...

Here goes...

Finally replaced the old FK coiler system that the car came with, I went with Gaz Golds and custom spring rates - 1300lbs/inch rear, 800lbs/inch fronts and added silver project golf MK IV top mounts to the mix


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Installed MK2 TT Balljoints and then went for setup using specs as supplied by Max:


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-4 deg of camber looks the business!


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Picked up some 17" ultralite wheels from a GT86, holes are all in the right place at 5x100 but they needed widening to M14 from M14, so took them to the local CNC place and they sorted them, added some slicks to the mix in 235/610/17 - two of which were experimental Dunlop compounds, the other two were from a mini cup car


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I was looking at airflow and the easiest idea I had was to buy a spare light assembly, open it up, trash the lens and gut the insides, sikaflex it back up and then you get a channeled air flow straight through to the filter


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More weight saving with a spot weld drill bit:


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Cleaned the bay, checked fluids, drilled some holes


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Added some vortex generators


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Being as my car is used to drive to the track, I have to ensure I can get it all in (hence 17s + cheaper) so loaded up and its a good fit


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BYC Wing all assembled and mounted to replace the mock carbon fibre old one - looks mean:


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All cleaned up ready for Bedford in October 2018


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Early bird gets a free garage:


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Hit the track, car instantly felt better in turn in, much more stable, settled after bumps and curbs really quickly, the Gaz, alignment, top mounts and weight saving all doing their part - I had also cut off the front ARB but didn't take pics of it


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However, the smell of petrol is very strong, so I traced it back to the newly installed DW65v fuel pump which Northampton Motorsport fitted very poorly when they had the car in for alignment, took a while to dry and fix, test for leaks and so on, but I didn't fancy fuel on the exhaust! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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On go the slice - first time using these, what can I say? f**king EPIC!


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Unfortunately, come 2pm, I couldn't select any gears while the engine was running and hot, as soon as it cooled down it was a pain, but I could just about select a few gear rev matching and bypassing the clutch, ultimately it halted play and I got the car back home gingerly, booked it in to have the clutch checked and it turned out it was half missing, bearing in mind it was the stock clutch with 105K on it, I can't complain, but a new CG Motorsport 777 kit came, braided clutch line and new motorsport fluids all round:


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I've also had intermittent brake warnings, so decided to tackle that, so I replaced the brake switch and the error went, also set about making improvements over the winter period, ally spigot rings after the plastic ones started to deform, Ferrodo DS1.11 pads, new Brembo solid discs, Porsche Boxter Brembos, CG Motorsport adapters, braided hoses and high boil fluid


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Secured some chassis splitter mounts from Set Booth and set about building a front splitter blue Peter stylee:


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Initial fitment wasn't great at the front of the air dam, annoyingly this meant having to take the whole thing off, redo the L-brackets, repaint and seal, then reassemble and position, however now, its flush and solid


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By now its March 4th and I went back to Bedford to see what difference all the improvements have made, OMG, the car is amazing now, fast, stable, great on the brakes, sharp turn-in, hardly any pitching or rolling in corners and back was perfectly balanced with the front, very impressive to drive now as well as look at:


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That pretty much sums up development and progress in the last year, one of the things that I haven't done much of in that time is drive the thing, so this year is less about making progress off the track and more about development as a driver, I plan to do a lot more track days and I think that if anything, all I will be doing to the car is a WMI install to help control EGT temps and maybe some PVC door cards, that aside, its track time and a service.


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Come winter 2019 however, it'll all be go on development as I am planning to drop rods in and go down the power route, get some serious horses out of this, but reliable ones, I am not chasing max power, but she's running 260bhp ish at the moment and if I can reliably add another 100bhp without escalating temps and destroying another clutch I will be happy, it'll make all the difference on straights and punch out of the corners, at the moment the cars weakness is being gobbled up on long straights by faster machinery that is much much slower in corners.

I will try to update this thread more as I go this year.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Great update car really looks the part on track now with the aero updates. Your vortex generators don't look as obvious as the one I have on mine. They work better if they are angled and not just placed straight. Those spring rates are really serious as well, I don't think I could go quite that hard as I run the car on the road.
I know what you mean about being gobbled up on the straights by quicker cars. Hopefully that won't be happening much this year.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I agree about the vortex generators, I was following your updates with max on the vortex test, but these went on before I saw that, I will be repositioning these at some point and adding things like canards, etc, but it was worth a test.

I run my car to the track for track days but nothing else, I though you had a B8 that you used on the road? that gone now?

I guess you have turbo plans on the works or running already? I've been looking at the Badger5 kit, hybrids, GT2867r, G25, loads of options but then I keep parking it as I'll end up fiddling and not driving and that helps no-one


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Still have the B8, I would never own a TT as a daily TBH, Just not practical for me. The TT gets used on the road but only with me in it most of the time. The wife has never been in it since I put the bucket seats and roll cage in it, she can't get in it.
Hopefully the engine is going back in next weekend. The TT has been sitting on the drive on axle stands for nearly 2.5 months now whilst I have been sorting the engine. G25-660, 82.5mm Wossner pistons, Nortech manifold, IE rods , Bosch 1000cc injectors, Ignitron ECU etc etc . So hopefully will be around 480 bhp 400Lb/ft.
Hopefully enough to keep those pesky M3 BMW's behind me.
I popped into Homebase the other day and got some Lawn edging. Wife thought I was going to do some gardening LOL.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Still have the B8, I would never own a TT as a daily TBH, Just not practical for me. The TT gets used on the road but only with me in it most of the time. The wife has never been in it since I put the bucket seats and roll cage in it, she can't get in it.
> Hopefully the engine is going back in next weekend. The TT has been sitting on the drive on axle stands for nearly 2.5 months now whilst I have been sorting the engine. G25-660, 82.5mm Wossner pistons, Nortech manifold, IE rods , Bosch 1000cc injectors, Ignitron ECU etc etc . So hopefully will be around 480 bhp 400Lb/ft.
> Hopefully enough to keep those pesky M3 BMW's behind me.
> I popped into Homebase the other day and got some Lawn edging. Wife thought I was going to do some gardening LOL.


I love that Homebase is going to be the supplier of choice for air dams in the UK for a little while, so funny, but its good stuff and cheapo to replace.

You are going for some big power there, that's a big outlay as well, way more than I am willing to drop on the car and as evidenced by all the comments on my facebook post this morning, its quite the hot topic, my needs are much less extreme than yours. You should have no. issues with the Beemers moving forward, ill be interested to see your progress.


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