# Retrofit: Cruise Control



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

This guide is specific to a 2007 V6. Part numbers may be different for newer cars.

Parts Required
Stalk (to replace non-momentary main beam existing stalk): 8P0 953 513 B (2 icon) / D (3 icon)
Stalk (to replace momentary main beam existing stalk): 8P0 953 513 F (3 icon)
Lower cowl (existing can be trimmed) 8J0 953 512 A/C
Wire: 8P0 054 733 or make one with single wire and pins (either from repair wire 000 979 009 E, or TE 963715-1
Steering wheel module: check 8P0 953 549 F is fitted

Part 1: Add Wire from Engine ECU to Interior

Remove wipers (13mm nut). A wiper removal tool will probably be required to pull off the wiper arm[/*]
Remove scuttle panel (pull off rubber seal, remove 2x T25 Torx screws, then gently pull panel out of strip under windscreen). While it was off I greased the wiper linkage[/*]
Remove engine ECU from car. The ECU was much more central in my V6 (as circled), and was held in place by a single T25 Torx screw:
















[/*]
It may be in a security cage, but in the V6 the cage didn't need to be removed to unplug the connectors. If so, the security bolts can be undone using a large flat screwdriver after cutting a slot on the tops with a 1mm cutting disc:







[/*]
Cable ties need to be cut and plastic clips removed to eventually reveal the connector pins. An empty pin was already in the block, so I used that. There are 81 terminals on the V6 ECU plug, 94 terminals on all other models. Connect the new wire to engine ECU connector:
1.8 Petrol Engine (CCDA) - Pin 45[/*]
2.0 Petrol Engine (BWA, BPY, CDMA, CDLB) - Pin 18[/*]
2.0 Petrol Engine (CCTA, CCZA, CESA, CETA) - Pin 45[/*]
2.0 Diesel Engine (CBBB, CFGB) - Pin 64[/*]
2.5 Petrol Engine (CEPA) - Pin 18[/*]
3.2 V6 Petrol Engine (BUB, CBRA) - Pin 38 (as shown):
















[/*]

[/*]
Run wire through the bulkhead to the right where the main loom of the car runs through a rubber grommet. A knitting needle will help feed the wire through. This comes out behind the glovebox, which can be removed for access:
















[/*]
Run the wire to the drivers side behind the head unit and up to the black steering wheel module connector block. The drivers knee panel can be removed for access[/*]

Part 2: Connect Wire to new Stalk

Optionally disconnect the battery[/*]
Remove the steering wheel airbag, by rotating the wheel 90 degrees from top dead centre clockwise and pulling out the small cap on the back and undoing the Torx T30 bolt. Repeat 90 degrees anti-clockwise from top dead centre. Note: they don't come completely out, you'll know when they're free. Put steering wheel back to centre and allow the steering lock to re-engage. Disconnect connectors and remove airbag[/*]
Remove steering wheel by undoing the M12 XZN bolt. Undo it slightly, then give the steering wheel a sharp tug to loosen it, then undo it fully. Take note of the steering wheels alignment on the spline, as it will need to be refitted in exactly the same position - there should be markings which line up[/*]
Remove 2x T30 Torx bolts holding on the steering wheel adjustor handle[/*]
Remove top steering cowl by pulling upwards. Remove bottom half by undoing two Torx T25 from the front and one underneath[/*]
Unplug the steering wheel module. To remove it, undo the small T8 Torx screw from the front. Pull down gently on the module and feel behind to push in the rear clip - you'll feel it release and the module will lower slightly. Push a thin 2mm allen key through the small hole in the front, and when you feel resistance, push it slightly further and then lever it to the right, and the clip will release. Pull the module down to remove it:







[/*]
Pull out the slip ring, which is held in by two clips on the top[/*]
Remove indicator stalk, held in by one clip on the rear. It is in tightly, but will come out towards you if pulled hard[/*]
Add the new wire to pin 13 of the steering wheel module black connector with a red release tab. To insert the pin, you will need to slide the connector block out from the case (black wire shown here, black/white as standard):







[/*]
Fit the new stalk and reverse the above, either;
Fitting a new lower cowl, or[/*]
Trimming the existing lower cowl, using the new cruise control stalk fascia as a template (the fascia clips off the cruise stalk)[/*][/*]


Part 3: Coding
As always, scan the car and backup original coding before making any changes.


Recode 16-Steering module: Coding - change second to last digit to 4[/*]
Recode 01-Engine module: Coding II - enter 11463 to activate cruise control[/*]
[/list][/list]

Leave the ignition off for a couple of minutes for the engine ECU to store the new coding.

After a brief drive all warning lights should turn off. However, fault codes will still be stored in multiple places, so scan the whole car and clear them all - they should not return.

Part 4: Steering Angle Calibration
Probably not needed as all warning lights should turn off after driving the car for a few seconds.

Basic Setting

Sensor for Steering Angle (G85)
Prerequisites:
Start the vehicle.
Turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
If the steering wheel is straight during the test drive then stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight.
Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.
System voltage at least 12.0 V.

[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Coding-II - 11]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was successful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -4.5 and +4.5 °.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Parts of this guide were provided by ReTTro fit. Extra information is available here, as the A3 is very similar.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Extension to part 3 : 
To fit the new stalk the slipring and steering angle sensor needs to be removed first 
Angle sensor slides out 
Slipring has two retaining clips at the top

The above mention steering module for prefacelift 
( 8P0 953 549 F ) is highline module which will allow multifunction steering wheel / cruise control / on board computer

If you don't have mfsw but have on board computer then your car has mid line module which is ok for cruise

Note: on facelift cars the steering module needs a 8P0 953 549 K ( angle sensor is built in )

On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## Barmybob (Nov 4, 2015)

Thanks for this guide, most appreciated.

My wife's 2010 Tdi model was a little different (ECU plugs had a tamper proof cage which needed to be removed). The picture of your ECU connector was a little confusing. All I needed to do was remove the PINK plastic retainer clip, remove the blank pin and fit the new wire in its place. Hardest part of the job was probably getting the wiper arms off, and getting the wire through the bung.

Thanks again

Bob


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## daveygravey (Apr 30, 2017)

Great write up, I followed this on the weekend (all working nicely).
I have one addition to make to ease the Steering ECU removal pain (which I struggled with for sometime!):

If you remove all the clips around the steering ECU, you can then ease the circuit board down and out.
You can then easily flick the front clip from underneath while pressing the rear clip with your finger and voila, pics below.

Remove the clips (some shown)









Remove the circuit board









Press front clip


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

daveygravey said:


> Great write up, I followed this on the weekend (all working nicely).


Glad it helped


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## n_jepson (Mar 7, 2013)

This post has been invaluable, although I found it after I started ... but thank you so much.

I actually did it the reverse way ... fitting the stalk first and doing the tasks in reverse, and I am 99% of the way there ... the only remaining task I have left to do is (IMHO) the most daunting ...

I'm stuck/pondering at the point of adding the additional wire into the engine ECU plug. 99% sure it's the larger of the two plugs going into the ECU 94 pin plug ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r7ib82x0dxo4jiq/2021-05-04 18.06.35.jpg?dl=0

*Question : *How does the plug assembly come apart ... I really don't want to break anything ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r7ib82x0dxo4jiq/2021-05-04 18.06.35.jpg?dl=0

Basically how do I get from a complete plug









to 









Many thanks in advance ...


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Glad it helped. It looks like you have an RS from your signature so it might be a different connector to my V6, but in case it is similar:

I can't really remember but cut off any cable ties. The aim is to remove the piece on the back where the wires are inserted. There must be some tabs on it somewhere, to either prise open or squeeze in to release it.

Then there will likely be a pin locking system, which is usually a pink or purple part that needs to be slid to one side in order to release the rail of pins. Then in this case there is a big red rubber seal but it just slides out, and my car had empty pins in place (unusual, not come across this anywhere else on the car).


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Hello,

I have completed the installation of the cruise control but I cannot enable it through OBDEleven.

I can add the coding to 16-Steering Wheel but at 01-Engine there is no option for coding-II. Only Long Coding is available.

Could anybody help?

I have an Audi TT MK2 2.0 BWA 2008.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I have never used OBDEleven but if the coding isn't available a more powerful tool such as VCDS will be required. If you post your location there might be someone near willing to help


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Thanks. I leave in Athens Greece&#8230;


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ah, not many people on here local to you then! I'm not sure what other options you have. Might be worth finding a Greek VAG forum?


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I have finally enabled Cruise Control.
I found a VCDS and did it.

Later on, I realised that I had Greek as default language in ObdEleven App, which prevents descriptions from showing up in the app. 
I changed to English and then I could find how to enable cruise control through 01-Engine -> Long Coding (not coding II).


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## James-Mk2-TT-SLine (9 mo ago)

lukeexecute said:


> I have finally enabled Cruise Control.
> I found a VCDS and did it.
> 
> Later on, I realised that I had Greek as default language in ObdEleven App, which prevents descriptions from showing up in the app.
> I changed to English and then I could find how to enable cruise control through 01-Engine -> Long Coding (not coding II).


I will be doing this job soon, I also have OBDEleven, not VCDS. 
do you (or anyone) know the codes for long coding?

James.


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## James-Mk2-TT-SLine (9 mo ago)

Reamershoe said:


> I used OBDeleven to activate cruise control after fitting and also puddle lights to bottom of door along with the red lights on end of doors .


What is the long coding you need to do these two jobs please. I will be fitting cruse control soon, and I’d do the red lights too.


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## TheCrofter (Jun 2, 2021)

Re coding, my VCDS coding 11 is greyed out so I reckon I need long coding. Any one got any guidance for achieving this?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

TheCrofter said:


> Re coding, my VCDS coding 11 is greyed out so I reckon I need long coding. Any one got any guidance for achieving this?


What module?


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## James-Mk2-TT-SLine (9 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> What module?


I need the same assistance for this job. 
Also how do I find out what module I have.

James.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I mean which address, eg engine, steering wheel


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## James-Mk2-TT-SLine (9 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> I mean which address, eg engine, steering wheel


Ok, so mine is a 2009, Mk2, 2lt diesel, s-line. 
the steering wheel has a flat bottom.

I’m pretty happy with fitting the new stalk, the wire from the ECU, and following the excellent how to guide on the forum, it’s just the coding bit at the end I’m unsure of. 
I have OBD11, pro account to do it with.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I've not used OBD11 but I imagine it will be able to as it is just coding, nothing advanced


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

James-Mk2-TT-SLine said:


> Ok, so mine is a 2009, Mk2, 2lt diesel, s-line.
> the steering wheel has a flat bottom.
> 
> I’m pretty happy with fitting the new stalk, the wire from the ECU, and following the excellent how to guide on the forum, it’s just the coding bit at the end I’m unsure of.
> I have OBD11, pro account to do it with.


Mine was coded long before I got OBD11 so I have had a look to see if I can help. The steering module coding is as already mentioned at the top so foolproof. I'm having trouble checking the engine module side as I'm not getting long coding aka coding II coming up on OBD11 this might be due to wanting to be connected to the car instead of history but other modules with coding II or long coding are showing up. This is as much as I can help hopefully those above that used OBD11 to do it answer your question.


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## Reamershoe (Aug 5, 2020)

Nidana said:


> Mine was coded long before I got OBD11 so I have had a look to see if I can help. The steering module coding is as already mentioned at the top so foolproof. I'm having trouble checking the engine module side as I'm not getting long coding aka coding II coming up on OBD11 this might be due to wanting to be connected to the car instead of history but other modules with coding II or long coding are showing up. This is as much as I can help hopefully those above that used OBD11 to do it answer your question.


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## Reamershoe (Aug 5, 2020)

I coded my 2013 TDI for cruise control using OBD11 Screenshots below


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## TheCrofter (Jun 2, 2021)

I've just completed retro fitting the CC on my 07 mk2 2.0 TFSI. My experience leads me to advise that if you can find someone to do this for £300 or less then go for it. I picked up a lever from eBay in US, messed about with fitting wires and seeking out someone to do the coding. I couldn't get anyone to just do the coding, I guess they didn't trust my fitting skills . I ended up getting Ross-Tech VCDS and doing it myself. 

To summarize I probably spent about£300 and had a load of hassle. The only bonus is the CC now works and I have VCDS access for the future. Had I known at the start I would have just paid some guy to do it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Retrofitting is not for everyone but if you had paid someone else you wouldn't have gained VCDS from it


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

I went down the getting someone else to retrofit it route after supplying parts as I was due an oil service too … plus was out of my skillset and no VCDS here. 

Each to their own I guess, glad you sorted it in the end.


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## krisdeb (5 mo ago)

Great guide. I got to the point... 1. I can't remove the wipers. Broke two 'removal tools' and used the can of WD40. It's so ironic that I'm just laughing now. I have all the parts, OBD11, some skillset and I am unable to do anything because of the **** wipers.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Don't use WD40 unless it is the penetrant version. The trick is to put some pressure on the joint in the wiper arm, or the spring pressure is fighting against you. But I do agree, I hate removing wiper arms

A previous car had the rear wiper spindle though a hold in the glass. Now that was scary


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## krisdeb (5 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> Don't use WD40 unless it is the penetrant version. The trick is to put some pressure on the joint in the wiper arm, or the spring pressure is fighting against you. But I do agree, I hate removing wiper arms
> 
> A previous car had the rear wiper spindle though a hold in the glass. Now that was scary


Thanks, I did it eventually after few hours with removal tool from Amazon and some modifications of it. PlusGas helped a lot, after few hours both arms just popped out.

Too late for anything else so I will carry on next week after my holidays.

Thanks again for your support!


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## krisdeb (5 mo ago)

Thank you very much for your help. I finally did it and all test drives were successful.

The photo was taken by my fiancee, I'm not using the phone while driving.









The ... part of the project:

- SCARY: ECU disconnecting and anti tamper cage cutting with Dremel. I couldn't get to it via the bolts so I cut the cage, 10 minutes job but it needed to be precise, otherwise I would cut the cables or the connectors

- ANNOYING: Wipers removal. All this exhausting job took too long - all day to be fair including waiting for the oil to work and buying the removal tools which were useless, luckily I managed to return all of them. As always, £5 cheap Amazon next day morning delivery saved the day. The nuts and arms were well welded and I needed a lot of patience, physical strength and some tools and penetrating oils etc.

- DIFFICULT: Working with connectors and pins. It was demanding and it could only be done once of I wanted to do it right. So I counted the pins like 10 times and took close photos of the pinouts before I put the pin in and closed the plug.

- EASY: Routing the cable. I thought it would be really difficult but I found the plastic cover just under the wipers motor, drilled the small hole and put the cable in there. Maybe not the most elegant but it was done in just under 10 minutes.

- BORING: Removing the steering wheel and all those screws and plastics. I needed to redo it three times because of my mistakes, I'm not complaining but it was just boring. I also lost one of the screws but luckily I replaced it with the similar one from my heritage garage collection.

- PRECISE: Driving steering module. It needed a lot of precision to take it off and then to put it back in place. Watch out for wipers stalk plug, it is kind of loose and I needed to reconnect the whole module once again because the wipers didn't work. Damn wipers again, this time from the electric side, LOL 

- EXPENSIVE: The kit itself, the rest was cheap and the added benefit is to own it all - penetrating oil, wipers removal tool, M12 spline bit, that's all I needed extra.

- FUN: OBD11 programming, easy and lots of fun to see the cruise control working.

All in all it was challenging and interesting project. I already upgraded our TT with a modern Android head unit and it was a bit of a task but this one was much harder to do. It needed a lot of patience and a lot of strength, precision, attention and discipline. I learned a lot and I started to respect car mechanics job even more. Cars are more demanding than computers for me...

Any questions, feel free to comment.


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## ritred (Sep 16, 2021)

Finally, after having had the parts available for months, getting down to fitting this. I think I am okay with everything, and have dismantled the whole steering wheel before, so no scary bits there. As with other people on the thread, removing the wipers was a complete PITA, but, hey, they finally came off.

Now, this might sound like the least important of my problems, but it is, nonetheless, bothering me a bit: removing the scuttle panel. I have trying pulling it up gengly, but the end that is attached to the windscreen seems to be "glued" to it, and I am afraid it will break. Any advice here, please? Should I just pull harder? No nuggets of wisdom anyone can share?


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## krisdeb (5 mo ago)

ritred said:


> Finally, after having had the parts available for months, getting down to fitting this. I think I am okay with everything, and have dismantled the whole steering wheel before, so no scary bits there. As with other people on the thread, removing the wipers was a complete PITA, but, hey, they finally came off.
> 
> Now, this might sound like the least important of my problems, but it is, nonetheless, bothering me a bit: removing the scuttle panel. I have trying pulling it up gengly, but the end that is attached to the windscreen seems to be "glued" to it, and I am afraid it will break. Any advice here, please? Should I just pull harder? No nuggets of wisdom anyone can share?


I thought exactly the same. It's definitely not glued but it looked like it was. I played it safe by prying the edge of it a little bit with the flat stubby. Once the small gap showed up, it was easy to grab it by hand and just pull the panel at around 30 degrees, I managed to do it in one move and I was surprised how easy it was to take it off. Don't bend it because it will break or tear and also don't hold it too flat because it will not move out.


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## ritred (Sep 16, 2021)

Thanks, mate, that eases my concerns a bit. Will try your approach. I just hope it goes back to its place the same way it is now once the whole thing is completed.




krisdeb said:


> I thought exactly the same. It's definitely not glued but it looked like it was. I played it safe by prying the
> View attachment 490840
> 
> View attachment 490839
> ...


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Spray a soapy water before attempting removal. The plastic trim is held in the glass by some kind a ziplock.


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## krisdeb (5 mo ago)

ritred said:


> Thanks, mate, that eases my concerns a bit. Will try your approach. I just hope it goes back to its place the same way it is now once the whole thing is completed.


It's going back easy but I needed to push it all the way with my fingers until it's aligned with the windshield again. Good luck!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

krisdeb said:


> Thank you very much for your help. I finally did it and all test drives were successful.


Another happy customer 


krisdeb said:


> - EASY: Routing the cable. I thought it would be really difficult but I found the plastic cover just under the wipers motor, drilled the small hole and put the cable in there. Maybe not the most elegant but it was done in just under 10 minutes.


Yes that panel is pretty easy, I didn't know about it when I fitted it to mine. That area gets wet by the way and you'd have a bad day if water leaked on your fuse box/control units, so make sure you seal the hole well with a grommet or some kind of sealant

Regarding the scuttle, the above is all good advice. Just pry from the end carefully and once it releases the rest is easy. If struggling with one end, try the other


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## ritred (Sep 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> Another happy customer
> 
> Yes that panel is pretty easy, I didn't know about it when I fitted it to mine. That area gets wet by the way and you'd have a bad day if water leaked on your fuse box/control units, so make sure you seal the hole well with a grommet or some kind of sealant
> 
> Regarding the scuttle, the above is all good advice. Just pry from the end carefully and once it releases the rest is easy. If struggling with one end, try the other


Thanks, mate, useful as always. By the way, prying the panel up (still haven't removed it), I realised the wiper motor compartment underneath is completely flooded. Shouldn't there be some kind of hole there so it doesn't get filled with water? Or maybe there is one but it is all clogged up - if this is the case, good job I am doing this thing, because the wiper motor is almost completely under water.


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## EsnTT (May 27, 2019)

Very well documented on here, there are 2 drain holes with rubber inserts under the scuttle panel and they block quite easily. Get them cleaned out ASAP as your engine management module is under there as well which you'll have to remove to insert the cruise wire.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

There's a rubber drain on both sides, kind of castellated. It goes behind the arch liner. Get it unblocked asap as your wiper motor will fail but more importantly your engine ECU will and that will be expensive to sort out and could leave you stranded


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## ritred (Sep 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> There's a rubber drain on both sides, kind of castellated. It goes behind the arch liner. Get it unblocked asap as your wiper motor will fail but more importantly your engine ECU will and that will be expensive to sort out and could leave you stranded


Thanks, Mark, already cleared and fixed. Good thing is only one of the holes was blocked. Bad thing is it seemed to have been there for a long time, judging by the sludge and marks. Hopefully it will be okay now.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

krisdeb said:


> - ANNOYING: Wipers removal. All this exhausting job took too long - all day to be fair including waiting for the oil to work and buying the removal tools which were useless, luckily I managed to return all of them. As always, £5 cheap Amazon next day morning delivery saved the day. The nuts and arms were well welded and I needed a lot of patience, physical strength and some tools and penetrating oils etc.


Ah the stupid wipers... So many have said the wipers on these cars are as easy to remove as just rocking the arms back and forth after removing the nut. Nope been there, done that, never got the wipers off either my A3 or the TT. I had an old skool battery terminal/wiper arm puller but I didn't attempt to use it on the A3 back when I tried on that car because it looked like it was just going to scratch up/gouge the wiper arms in the process. On the TT I just said "forget about it" just the same--they def. weren't coming off "easily". Thankfully for the jobs I was doing, I was just able to do what I needed to do (removing the strut mount bolts) by prying up the cover and getting my hand under there.

On another note, I'm still pretty amazed the TT not only didn't have cruise standard in some markets but even some cars that seem relatively well-optioned otherwise, didn't have it! In Can/US market it would have been unheard of for a car of this cost to not have cruise standard. Even the base 2.0T FWD (as "low" as a TT we got here) would have had it as standard equipment. I remember how annoyed I was my first A3 did not have auto headlights--I thought _that_ was ridiculous enough given my run-of-the-mill car from the late 90s had that. If I had to retrofit cruise into any of my Audi cars, I think I would never have bought any Audi in the first place--I would have refused lol! I mean c'mon even most "regular" cars since the late _80s_ had cruise control--before I was old enough to drive! I guess maybe it's different in UK though...


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

In the UK if they could get away with it the engine would be an optional extra.


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