# S77LGO Engine Rebuild Thread- interior refresh



## fixitagaintomoz

thought id just share a few pics of the new car.











I will also now be using this thread to update you all with changes and plenty of pics


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## Jaylad

Looks nice,


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## chamberlaintt

Nice, at least you don't have to spend on lowering


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## Stochman

Looks nice 'n' low, does it have blue leather?


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## martian71

Nice looking car


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## WallaceTech

I did actually put a bid on that car last week. It was a members car from here. Can't remember the user name.

Nice car mate.


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## Stochman

WallaceTech said:


> I did actually put a bid on that car last week. It was a members car from here. Can't remember the user name.
> 
> Nice car mate.


Time to change your signature Wallace


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## WallaceTech

Good call. forgot about that.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks guys,

Yeah it's low enough for me, although it may go a touch lower once the wheels are spaced.

It's grey leather and to be honest it wasn't my first choice, but its growing on me!


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## TTSPORT666

Welcome pal...She looks nice. Your right she will look better properly spaced out.. :wink:

Whats her mods spec?

Damien.


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## dextter

Very, very nice mate ! 8)


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## fixitagaintomoz

TTSPORT666 said:


> Welcome pal...She looks nice. Your right she will look better properly spaced out.. :wink:
> 
> Whats her mods spec?
> 
> Damien.


To be honest I've still yet to explore the mods fully, but obviously coilovers and 19s, then less obviously

Forge TIP
Forge 90" from turbo
Forge 008 dv
remap- estimated at 280 but a Dynodaze day will reveal all
Miltek cat back
5k hid 
Led interior light

There's a few bits n pieces I plan on doing-

Fmic
Cold side relocation for dv
N249 and sai bypass
Quick shifter
Maybe some Un - obtrusive weight loss, but the best way to start that is with the driver...


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## craigstt

fixitagaintomoz said:


> thought id just share a few pics of the new car


 Very nice. Love the 19 alloys on it. Looks original yet exotic. Do you or anybody know if they are 5x100s?


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## Lollypop86

Looks pretty 

J
Xx


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## fixitagaintomoz

craigstt said:


> Very nice. Love the 19 alloys on it. Looks original yet exotic. Do you or anybody know if they are 5x100s?


Thanks, I like the look too! They are rs6 replicas, and are 5x100s et 35. The tyres are 235 35 19 and in my opinion they are a perfect size for the car 



Lollypop86 said:


> Looks pretty
> 
> J
> Xx


Thanks


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## moisty

Perfect wheels for the car and nice height


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## MattG90

lovely looking car


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## craigstt

fixitagaintomoz said:


> craigstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Love the 19 alloys on it. Looks original yet exotic. Do you or anybody know if they are 5x100s?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I like the look too! They are rs6 replicas, and are 5x100s et 35. The tyres are 235 35 19 and in my opinion they are a perfect size for the car
> 
> 
> 
> Lollypop86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty
> 
> J
> Xx
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Do you mind if I ask who is the manufacturer of the RS6 replicas? Cost? Did you drop and add spacers?


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## fixitagaintomoz

craigstt said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> craigstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Love the 19 alloys on it. Looks original yet exotic. Do you or anybody know if they are 5x100s?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I like the look too! They are rs6 replicas, and are 5x100s et 35. The tyres are 235 35 19 and in my opinion they are a perfect size for the car
> 
> 
> 
> Lollypop86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty
> 
> J
> Xx
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you mind if I ask who is the manufacturer of the RS6 replicas? Cost? Did you drop and add spacers?
Click to expand...

Sorry mate that's how it was when I bought it- on coilovers and those alloys- as for spacers on the pics it has none, but I'm thinking 10mm front and 15mm rear when I can afford some hubcentrics


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## dermk4

Nice car and perfect stance~ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## MattG90

Nice car


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## fixitagaintomoz

MattG90 said:


> Nice car





dermk4 said:


> Nice car and perfect stance~ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]





moisty said:


> Perfect wheels for the car and nice height


thanks guys!


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## fixitagaintomoz

*DISCLAIMER*this post wont be very exciting, but there will be some decent updates soon, i promise!

So over the past couple of months, i have done a bit of work, so heres some update pictures.

Fmic installed


Map sensor pipe replaced aswell, with a glimpse of the cold side DV relocation



the start of the engine bay colour change......opting for wrinkle black on the major bits


partially polished charge pipe, which made me decide against the shiny look


i have also done the n249 delete, and SAI delete.

as i said, a crappy little update for now, but i assure you there is more in the pipe line.

engine bay wise i am trying to source some plastics, as mine had none when i bought it! i will be doing the inlet wrinkle black, ive just finished debaffling my charge pipe and this will be painted tomorrow. i have ordered my 2.0 coilpacks and spacer to go in, and i will be painting the rocker cover at some point.

my neuspeed air filter and heat shield should also be quite nice looking 

exterior wise ill be ordering my spacers quite soon, and ill then drop the coilys a bit lower to suit.

i promise the next pictures will be better


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## Matt B

Good work. By the way that's the map sensor not air temp


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## fixitagaintomoz

Matt B said:


> Good work. By the way that's the map sensor not air temp


Thanks- subtle edit and no one will ever know


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## fixitagaintomoz

jsut ordered some of this

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.d ... wwodwjQA4A

and some ducting for a cold air feed, along with my neuspeed filter i should be getting optimal flow! i know there are heatshields ready made on the bay for £25 but this gives me the cance to make my own at my own with better heat resistant material for virtually the same price, and i will also construct a heat shield for between the charge pipe and the coil pack wiring.

also got my 2.0 coilpacks on thier way, and my decat section ready to go. hopefully get it all done before map day with WAK next friday!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Today i re-located my boost gauge. No spacer or bracketry required, just some good sticky foam 



This also arrived and i'm getting my brother round with his compressor to cut the rusted mangled remains of the existing bolts out so i can fit it


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## Daniels

Nice car, what exhaust does it have on it? Will be interesting to know how much difference the decat makes on sound and performance with the standard dp.

Daniels


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## Wak

Does that map sensor and it's o-Ring fit that map tube properly because there will be nothing I can do if that is the source of a leak!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Yes WAK there was a reassuring amount of resistance when installing it. Ive also been replacing the vac lines tonight, and i seem to hold boost a little better now- they were silicone but i changed them all to black so all the connections were remade. Not done any logs for this though. I will try and get it smoke tested before my visit just to be on the safe side but i think its good to go. No issues with 2.0 coilpacks with the adaptor plate is there?

Cant wait for friday!


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## Mondo

fixitagaintomoz said:


> ...No issues with 2.0 coilpacks with the adaptor plate is there?...


Only that you've got some and I don't. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## fixitagaintomoz

Im suprised you havent given the amount you've spent on her so far, its a relatively cheap mod lol


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## Mondo

Aye - 1% of the previous mod, and 40 times the cost of the next one.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Daniels said:


> Nice car, what exhaust does it have on it? Will be interesting to know how much difference the decat makes on sound and performance with the standard dp.
> 
> Daniels


Its a miltek backbox with no centre section. I will post a before and after vid of the decat


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## Daniels

Cheers buddy.

Daniels


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## cam69

Decat is a good mod after fitting mine my egt's were lowered and maf bhp went from 270 to 274 also it sounds good to;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Daniels

Sounds good, perhaps I should try and get a bargin on one of the ebay jobbies, was that with a standard exhaust? Or an upgraded one? Sorry for asking on your thread...

Daniels


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## fixitagaintomoz

Its all good... i imagine it helps with a standard exhaust, but will be better on an aftermarket system. I picked mine up on the bay for 46 plus postage. Its the same as the one listed at £140ish, but they sometimes list a few on a 99p auction, so keep your eye out!


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## cam69

Daniels said:


> Sounds good, perhaps I should try and get a bargin on one of the ebay jobbies, was that with a standard exhaust? Or an upgraded one? Sorry for asking on your thread...
> 
> Daniels


That was with a scorpion cat back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fixitagaintomoz

Earlier today i replaced my oil pick up pipe- fun messy job 

Now trying to change the cat section and faced with 14 years of rust.... off to buy a reciprocating saw then it should be plain sailing


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## fixitagaintomoz

Point of no return


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## fixitagaintomoz

Oh my days. What a piece of crap. Firstly it was a nob to get the new pipe on to the down pipe, the hole didnt quite line up.

then the OD is slightly too small,so its got a coke can wrapped round temporarily until i get get a bandage type joint with some gum in it. And to top it off my drivers side exhaust tip is sticking out about 5mm more than the near side, so i need to do some wiggling and jiggling first. Grrrrr. Moral of the story? Cheap ebay de-cat pipes are not worth the trouble!


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## fixitagaintomoz

no update on the exhaust just yet- but needlless to say it will be sorted before friday when i take it to get WAK mapped.

in preparation for that today i have removed the forge 008 and fitted a standard 710N DV (thanks callum) and a 100mm cold air feed.

it will be getting a neuspeed filter fitted as soon as awesome gti decide to deliver it....

pics from todays work

needed a small amount of body modification to allow room behind the arch liner, i painted the cut edges afterwards.
i know it isnt pretty but it does the job!


it comes out just behind the headlight


then under the wakbox for now



didnt get a pic but it sits right by the lower grill

hopefully this with a neuspeed filter and heat shield should see a plentyfull supply of cool air!


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## Mondo

Nice work with the can opener. 

Good luck changing NSF bulbs now... :lol:


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## fixitagaintomoz

Mondo said:


> Nice work with the can opener.
> 
> Good luck changing NSF bulbs now... :lol:


Its such an awkward part to access- with the bumper off it would allow that bracket to be removed and re-worked properly. But if it aint seen it aint gots to be pretty 

As for the bulbs.... every bulb change will require wheel and arch liner removal to pull the duct through and allow access without damaging the duct. Fun times lol


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## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> needed a small amount of body modification to allow room behind the arch liner, i painted the cut edges afterwards.
> i know it isnt pretty but it does the job!


I'm not going to lie to you mate.....that looks absolutely terrible. Why could you not manipulate the pipes better? Or even chop them down and take them to get welded in the correct shape?


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## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> needed a small amount of body modification to allow room behind the arch liner, i painted the cut edges afterwards.
> i know it isnt pretty but it does the job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not going to lie to you mate.....that looks absolutely terrible. Why could you not manipulate the pipes better? Or even chop them down and take them to get welded in the correct shape?
Click to expand...

The intercooler piping had no clearance issues- it was my cold air feed ducting that needed that space....and there's no way to do it without cutting that part away unfortunately

http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/ramair/cheapinduction.htm

only difference is i created a curved edge for part, and painted it to protect it (not pictured)


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## L33JSA

Tell me......how much difference do you think that cold air mod actually made in all seriousness?


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## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Tell me......how much difference do you think that cold air mod actually made in all seriousness?


When i make the heat shield i plan for it to stop air from the bay getting to the neuspeed filter. I know i wont stop this completely, but i will in effect be restricting air flow to the filter, so im now giving it a way to obtain cold air.

I dont expect to see a night and day difference, but for circa £15 and an hour work it should be worthwhile.


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## L33JSA

If you've got a liquid gauge or VAGCOM I'd go out and do a flat out run in 4th gear logging your intake temps before and after your 'cold air' mod and tell me just how much difference it's actually made and whether it was really worth £15, plus your time and effort cutting up your car :wink:


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## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> If you've got a liquid gauge or VAGCOM I'd go out and do a flat out run in 4th gear logging your intake temps before and after your 'cold air' mod and tell me just how much difference it's actually made and whether it was really worth £15, plus your time and effort cutting up your car :wink:


once its mapped right with the filter and shield in place im happy to act as a guinea pig for others and log with and without the feed.

I think its also important to consider the air temp when youve been sat still at say for example lights and want to pull off quickly... and wak showed positive results on his page for bringing air temp closer to ambient with the cold air feed.

All in all i wanted to do everything i could afford to do before i get the map to get the most out of it, as power wise this is it for me, no more will be spent- if i chose i want more power then it will have to be a different car. My money will now be spent on handling and looks.


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## cam69

Make sure you get some paint on the parts of the inner wing you have cut or they will start to rust.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fixitagaintomoz

cam69 said:


> Make sure you get some paint on the parts of the inner wing you have cut or they will start to rust.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, i have done


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## fixitagaintomoz

Today i took delivery of this 



i plan to make my own heat shield tomorrow, ive got some nice door trim rubber to hopefully give it a good seal against the bonnet.

from what i can gather it will be quite loud.......that combined with the recent de-cat and the neighbors are going to love me!

unfortunately the new coilpacks didnt arrive, but awesome GTi were kind enough to send me the filter seperately so as not to hold up my plans- afterall it needs doing before friday when i see WAK

so the plan tomorrow is-

off to Ramp & Wrench in coventry to get her up on the ramps, to re-align and seal the new exhaust, and fit my cookbots

make the heat shield and fit the new filter

give her a bit of a clean


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## roddy

ok then,, have fun and enjoy


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## fixitagaintomoz

Today has been fun!

firstly i recommend Ramp & Wrench in coventry to anyone in the local area. £15 an hour for ramp access, and use of gearbox stands, engine support brackets, 20 tonne press etc.

i managed to get my cookbots in and my exhaust sorted out in 2.5 hours, not a bad effort i'd say.

didnt get pictures of the process, as i wanted to do it as quick as possible. One thing i now notice is when i change direction quickly at speed i feel the wheels go then the car have to catch up with them- im gussing this is down to my standard ARB setup? feels better than it was, thats for sure, and i know that once my ARB's are done it will almost be as good as a clio! :wink:

then it was back home to install my Neuspeed P-flow filter, and custom heat shield.

i started by making a template from card




then once i was happy i transfered it to the aluminium
4

a bit of test fitting




then put the rubber trim in place- this touches the bonnet in places, but not obviously all the way round as i am no where near skilled enough to try and replicate the contours of the bonnet!



also needed a way to secure it into place



and here she is, the NEARLY finisheed product





i say nearly as i will be painting it wrinkle black, but that takes a few days to cure so that will be done at the same time as the rocker cover.

now for a test drive!!!


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## L33JSA

On a sidenote.......the blank you've used for the secondary air system should go on the side of the actual cylinder head itself - the whole system then gets removed pipes and everything. :wink:


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## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> On a sidenote.......the blank you've used for the secondary air system should go on the side of the actual cylinder head itself - the whole system then gets removed pipes and everything. :wink:


At the time i couldnt see where it went, but i'll look into that- it would look a lot better with that part gone too!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Tomorrow is WAK day. Can't wait! Ill report back once ive had a play for a few hours


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## Mondo

Send my regards to the Sultan. I'll be there tomorrow myself.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Mondo said:


> Send my regards to the Sultan. I'll be there tomorrow myself.


What time you seeing him?


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## Mondo

Sorry, got my days confused. I'm over on Saturday.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Was looking forward to seeing your engine bay- WAK talks highly of it!

On another note maybe i need to attend this RR day to confirm the maf calculated power of 290bhp.....


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## Mondo

290!  No, you def' can NOT come to the RR day. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

:wink:


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## cam69

290 and that's on a standard downpipe???

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mullum

Mondo said:


> Sorry, got my days confused. I'm over on Saturday.


What are you having done ? A quick tweak or an overhaul ?


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## fixitagaintomoz

cam69 said:


> 290 and that's on a standard downpipe???
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yeah, standard dp and decat pipe, p-flow filter, 100mm cold air feed, custom heat shield.... and its the injectors holding it back- the turbo isnt even at its limits 

Wak is a genius


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## cam69

That's dam good if it's accurate as I have the same mods as you with bigger injectors and a Wak map and the most I've got out of mine is 274.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fixitagaintomoz

cam69 said:


> That's dam good if it's accurate as I have the same mods as you with bigger injectors and a Wak map and the most I've got out of mine is 274.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hmmm, it is weird as WAK didnt quute believe it himself!

Its still in progress, maybe a couple of extra tweeks then i'll reveal the final figure


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## Mondo

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Was looking forward to seeing your engine bay- WAK talks highly of it!...


  Cheers. 



mullum said:


> Mondo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, got my days confused. I'm over on Saturday.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you having done ? A quick tweak or an overhaul ?
Click to expand...

Had my quick tweak last weekend. This is just getting the fuel pump replaced.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Where to begin.

Firstly with a massive thanks to WAK. Anyine considering paying him a visit can take my word on this- do it. You wont be disappointed. Thoroughly checked my car over, and identified a couple of boost leaks that needed resolving. Once this was done, and everything else checked we set about the task at hand.

Wak spent a few hours tweaking and reworking the map to give me the most possible as safely as possible. Turns out that even wothout a 3"tip and 3"dp he was able to max my injectors out!

Final maf calculated bhp is 293. Cant wait to rolling road it 

The drivablilty of the car is now amazing. 6th gear at 80 pulls like a train, with no real lag, just smooth power delivery.

I cant stop grinning, its a whole new car!

Thanks again WAK.


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## mullum

Result ;-)


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## fixitagaintomoz

Now that she is running right, its time to turn my attention to other areas.

I will not be trying to get her to show winning standard, but i do want to spruce her up a bit. I am making a start on the engine bay. When i bought the car the engine bay was a state! 
It had no plastic covers, and hadn't been cleaned for a very long time.

I have replaced the majority of the hoses with black silicone. Both turbo intake and output are the only major ones left- the turbo 90 degree one i have sourced in black, so that will just leave the TIP to change.

I have ordered a new rocker cover, and i already had a spare charge pipe. These will be painted wrinkle black, and so will the inlet when i can source a spare. I have also got some 2.0 litre coilpacks coming in black and red, with wrinkle black spacer plate.

Today i realised that if the charge pipe is being painted, it can do a little trimming down first, due to me having a dv relocate, so i made a start on it.


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## fixitagaintomoz

just a quick update;

the charge pipe is ready to be welded up, and the new cam cover is getting closer to being ready for paint....man it was filfthy!
i've been using brake fluid, and engine de-greaser stuff, but im finding using these WITH some 800 grit wet and dry is doing the trick!

anyway, i'll do a full update on those when i have more to tell and more pictures...

in the mean time, won these on the 'Bay, and as long as the seller sticks to the rules and lets them go at the price i won them for i should have some Porsche 996 seats very soon.....



i think part of the reason i won them is due to the piss poor photos on the listing. ive been after a pair of these for a while, and was saving the hundreds of pounds i thought i would need, but to get these at a bargain price i just couldnt resist! just hope they dont need too much work to get them looking sexy. brucy bonus is i got the rear seats on the listing too so there will be spare leather for the knee pads, door pulls and handbrake


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## mstew

Had a quick gander and that is a VERY good price, BUT 'Note no subframes .. NO Wiring Loom or Relays for heated aspect'

Hope that doesn't cause too many headaches!


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## fixitagaintomoz

mstew said:


> Had a quick gander and that is a VERY good price, BUT 'Note no subframes .. NO Wiring Loom or Relays for heated aspect'
> 
> Hope that doesn't cause too many headaches!


nope, well hopefully not....

my logic is this- i dont think the 996 are bolt in- i could be wrong- so it was going to be custom runners/frames etc.... but if someone pops up saying they are bolt in, or theres a bolt in option that fit these seats then i'll source those.

as for heated aspect, that doesnt bother me too much, and if i want theres got to be a way of sorting it using my current seats (or a donor set)

if memory serves the tombstones bolt straight in.... and theres some cheap ones of them knocking about too..... i wonder if they marry up to these seats..... [smiley=book2.gif]

***EDIT***

DAMMIT

just read Matt B's post on porsche 996 seats- looks like k=his bolted straight in! dammit lol


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## fixitagaintomoz

Well the seats are home!

I plan to do a full restore on them; re-dye the leather and paint the shell.

Here's them next to their new home



it will be a little while before i do anything with them, but ill do a seprate restore thread when the time comes


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## fixitagaintomoz

yesterday i removed the passenger seat to check the runners.... and i'm pleased to arounce they fit bolt for bolt! So realistically they just need a bit of wiring for the electric adjustment, maybe the heated part if i decide i want to, and a full re-dye. Ive spoke to a supplier and for under £80 i will have enough to re-do the seats completely, and colour code other parts  cant wait!


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## fixitagaintomoz

I promised earlier in the thread to post a video of before and after my de-cat.

There isn't a massive amount of difference between the 2, but it does rev a bit more freely, and gets the odd pop

here is the before






And here is the after






sorry I got carried away trying to get the pops and bangs


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## fixitagaintomoz

Had a bit of fun this afternoon with my cam cover. Trying to clean it up ready for paint. Its getting there but man oh man its slow progress!









still a fair way to go but should be worth it


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## mstew

Nice work there ^^^ you should have chucked it in the dishwasher when the missus wasn't looking though 

I'll be doing mine soon and removing those nobly bits too. What colour you going for?


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## fixitagaintomoz

Im going wrinkle black- but with a high temp paint as a base coat. Ill be using the karcher tomorrow i reckon!


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## fixitagaintomoz

This morning lead to a bit more tinkering.

I've be de-cluttering the charge pipe.













luckily the wrinkle black will mask some of the imperfections


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## Daniels

The exhaust sounds a lot more aggressive with the decat. I like it a lot! Spot on! And if it yields those gains, well worth it!

Daniels


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## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers mate- it does have a more raspy sound. Definately recommend it


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## fixitagaintomoz

So my attempt at plugging the gap failed. The seller of the rods assured me it would work on stainless- maybe not. Plan b is take it to my mates to get it welded properly.


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## fixitagaintomoz

So the charge pipe and the rocker cover are nearly ready for paint. I will be using a high temp base coat, which should help the vht wrinkle black to stick.

Im also in the process of collecting a black interior. I picked up some black door cards in excellent condition yesterday, so i now need the handbrake centre section, lower dash and glove box, and door trims.

Watch this space, i will aim to get this all sorted after the upcoming camping holiday- dont want to wreck it straight away!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Ive given the charge pipe and rocker thier first coats of base coat. This is a high temp manifold paint, so should give a good base for the wrinkle black.

Actually starting to wonder wether a metallic dark grey with a few layers of lacquer is the way to go, based on how this base coat looked while it was wet.











ill leave that to cure for a few days before i decide on the final finish


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## fixitagaintomoz

Not a happy bunny. My recent VHT wrinkle paint work has gone Pete Tong. I did the layers too patchy so some places have wrinkled more than others, and i did it over too long a time frame.

The last time i did it i dried it with a hot air gun as i went and it worked really well, so i reckon its time to strip these back and try again


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## Mondo

Ah, that's a bugger. I messed up my 1st attempt at my cam cover. Ask Wak about my 'monkey scrotum' finish. :?  

1st time I did it in bright sunlight. Too bright; couldn't really see where I'd done and where not. 2nd time I did it in the shade of the garage; much better. I also just waited a bit between the 3 coats then, when done, stuffed it in the oven at a low heat for 20 minutes or so - job done. 

Persevere; it'll look grand once done.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers mate, the cam cover should be ok this time, take my time and do even coats instead of rushing it. The charge pipe is the akward one as it has to be hung, which tempts runs, which causes the ridges.... again thinner coats is the answer i reckon


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## fixitagaintomoz

so today i actually pulled my finger out and sent off the forms for my private plate, so S77 LGO will actually be the reg in a couple of weeks. FINALLY! lol

i also ordered new ball joints, now front drop links, new ARB poly bushes for the front. i will hopefully fit all these saturday, then finally get the tracking sorted once and for all! need to remove the rear adjuster on the coilys aswell before the alignment, and get them adjusted to neg 1 deg 20 minutes (i believe this is optimum?)

also hoping to change the thermostat, coolant bottle and coolant at the same time.

then its off to the peak district for a few days


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## fixitagaintomoz

This is the projected look...., just need to redo the paint!


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## fixitagaintomoz

So today i had these goodies to fit


The polubushes were the easiest ones ive done! Turns out i have no collars on the ARB so i used the jubilee clip method.



the drop links had seen better days







The wishbones weren't too tricky



The thermostat was a little fiddly but again not too much drama. Undid all the clips in turn to drop as much coolant as i could, probably still had 2 litres in there judging by how much i topped it back up with


So i went from a 80 defree to a 87 degree stat, and im a lot happier now. She sits at 91 on 49c and goes to 95 if i give it some heavy right foot.

some of you may have seen the other post, but ill repeat it here. I was trying to adjust the rear ride height, and look what i was greeted by!



Yes thats a 18mm plywood spacer. Back sits nice n low now that the wood has been removed.



Camber is way out now but thats being sorted next week. The adjustable tie rods need removing and freeing up but the garage ran out of time today



Thats about -2.75 camber.

Once the camber is set ill invest in spacers


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

No real progress of late 

Still collecting parts and tinkering though.

The rocker cover and charge pipe have been re-stripped, and as long as the weather is good on Saturday they will be painted and baked while the mrs is out 

Ive just agreed the purchase of some r32 xalipers and discs, should be collecting them next week- the seller may also have some ARBs for me if we can agree a price.

This weekend may also see the n249 re-install and the carbon canister delete. Once this is done then i can start cleaning whats left and doing a bit of a detail on the engine bay ready for the new painted bits. Anyway a couple of pics of the jits n bobs i have done





Oh and the new pressed plates


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So tonight i cracked on with the N249 relocate, and Carbon Canister delete.

heres a bit of a guide, but please bare in mind my relocate is temporary for now, and i will be re-doing the work to make it neater when i do other parts of the engine bay.

To preface this further, i did an n249 and SAI delete months ago, so today was a re-install and relocate. Also ignore the state of my engine bay, this is as i saw a work in progress, and my pics are purely to help those unsure of the relocation process.

You will need ideally some 2 core cable, but worst case 2 different colour single core wires. i soldered my joints and used adhesive heatshrink to ensure water tightness, i advise that this is the best way to extend the n249 wiring.

I'll show you the carbon canister delete that made way for the n249 relocate, here she is before i started 


heres the carbon canister and associated parts to be removed.






So i started at the inlet manifold, and removed the piping, unbolting it from the rocker cover. Then i removed the pipe that goes into the Turbo Intake Pipe. As you work your way over from right to left you have to undo the heatshielding poppers, and also cut it out from where its joined to water piping. Once this is all removed all thats left is the plug on the carbon canister, and the ventilation pipe. cut the ventilation pipe at the carbon canister, and poke it down the wing to vent.

youre then left with this


you may notice that you now have a hole to fill in the TIP, do this by removing the section of the piping between the air valve, and the TIP, and put a bolt or similar plug in the end, like so




you also need to plug the hole on the inlet- i bought a 8mm blank from ebay for pence.


the plug that went to the carbon canister needs a 10 watt 330 ohm resistor across the 2 pins, to avoid any warning lights or fault codes.

So for the n249 relocate you need to start by removing your ns49. On the APX like mine there is a 3mm hose from the n249 to the SAI system. this isnt present on mine, as i have deleted that too.

there is a hose from under the inlet manifold on the left hand side that goes to the n249. i'd remove this and chucked it in the bin. get some 3mm or 4mm silicone hose to replace it. i like the 3mm as it feels more secure. you will also need some 3mm or 4mm silicone to now bridge the greater gap to the Diverter Valve. on mine my DV has been relocated to the cold side, dont let this confise you- its still the same principal.

So. heres a pic of me extending the wiring. use soldered joints and adhesive heatshrink as mentioned above.




make sure the adhesive comes out the end, so you know it's sealed.



note the protective conduit, to help with heat protection. i fed this round and followed the water pipes to get me past the fans and aternator, to get to the gap that the carbon canister left. you can also feed your silicone hose from the DV the same way, and the hose from the IM. i got a bit of kit for the 2.0tfsi conversion that inluded a 8mm to 4mm reducer, which is needed to get from the 8mm output to the DV 4mm hose.



if you are keeping your SAI put a new feed from the n249 to the sai input. ignore this step for BAM or SAI delete (sai delete just black the extra hose off with a bolt or similar)

This is all now ready to put in place- i put the big tank from the n249 where the carbon canister was, and the hoses in the gap behind the headlight. make sure to cable tie it all in place, as you are close to the alternator, and you dont want it moving around too much!



this isn't my permanent fix,thats why theres loads of slack- just incase i re-route it all.

hope this helps someone out at some point.....sorry if it confuses anyone though!


----------



## merlin c

I moved my 249 assembly to the front of the car and rerouted hoses and electrics, as seen here bottom centre of first picture.











and with covers back on......


----------



## tnewson

Best carbon canister delete guide I've seen so far! Will be doing this over the weekend, the less pesky vac pipes the better!!!

tnewson


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

merlin c said:


> I moved my 249 assembly to the front of the car and rerouted hoses and electrics, as seen here bottom centre of first picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with covers back on......


Looks smart- just a little too close to the fans for my liking. Whole bay looks good mate


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today i picked up a new "dremel" so i can attack the IM in situ when the time comes.

i also bought a coolant bottle cover and a battery cover, as mine had neither when i bought her.

Can't wait til saturday to get down and dirty in the engine bay, give her a deep clean ready for the new parts


----------



## tnewson

What did you do with this hose when you deleted your carbon canister?










tnewson


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cut it and stuff it down the gap in the wing


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Rear Seat Delete completed today.

I still need to recarpet the boot to match, and source some black rear door cards, but the beauty of this delete is that its all removable in about 1 minute with only 2 bolts to undo, so jobs like the fuel pump wont be an issue.

see my other seat delete thread for more of the how to, but heres the pics











What do we reckon, OEM+ ?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

As you may/may nlt remember i had a go at spraying the charge pipe and rocker, but got a crap finish.

Well on one of the hottest days of the year the sun has come to my aid and helped achieve a nearly perfect finish 8)







ill give them a few days to cure before i fit them, got a feeling it may be a couple of weeks though before i get a chance


----------



## mullum

That looks cracklin' mate ;-)

Which paint was it, and did you use a heat gun ?


----------



## Mondo

Good work with the VHT wrinkle black (I'm assuming). Will look 1st class when fitted.

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Mondo said:


> Good work with the VHT wrinkle black (I'm assuming). Will look 1st class when fitted.
> 
> [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Yep vht wrinkle black indeed  that with the 2.p tfsi coils in red will make me happy


----------



## mullum

I saw a set of wrinkle painted alloys at Players. They looked fantastic, actually - but apparently they're a nightmare to get a good seal on the tyre.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Just keep a polished lip and there wouldnt be an issue- but cant say i think it would be my cup of tea to be honest


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok, back to the rear seat delete.

I have been busy today, stripping the boot panel and re-laying black carpet, and spraying the back plastic, and the 4 net anchors in black.

here's the pics;



























If anyone has the rear panels in Black, please inbox me.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

When i bought the car i had no engine plastics, and it was a right mess under the hood.

This is after a few changes- cold side relocate, air filter, n249 delete, sai delete and a few other bits



and this is her today, after a few other bits n bobs- its amazing the difference plastic covers make. To emphasise, this is no where near complete, just interesting to compare the 2 side by side and see the changes



the next pic should be the virtually complete pic


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today I had to angle grind about 2mm off the ECS Tuning spacer plate, for the 2.0 coil packs.

This was partly due to the paint on the rocker cover, but it didn't fit even without paint, so be aware of this if you are buying one.

anyway, since the rocker has had a week to let the paint set, I thought i'd offer it all up together again, to keep my self motivated to fit it all;



Theres not a lot stopping me fit the kit now- just need to have the manifold off and get that painted with some satin Black, so I need it to be a day I can do that first thing, fit the rest, then re-assemble later in the day.

I think it will take a day including the deep clean I have planned. I don't want to have to do any work in there once the painted parts are in, other than maintaining the clean environment that ive created


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

TTSPORT666 said:


> Welcome pal...She looks nice. Your right she will look better properly spaced out.. :wink:
> 
> Whats her mods spec?
> 
> Damien.


well todays the day. the spacers have finally arrived  Demon tweeks, 15mm front and 20mm rear. pretty standard really in that respect. should get the fitted later tonight


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well, in my opinion these spacers have transformed the look of the car













In an ideal world the front would be lower, and it may well be soon. i need to get round to changing the strut top mounts, and when i do i may give them a couple more turns.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today has been a busy day indeed. as above I have fitted the spacers, 15m front and 20mm rear. I got the itch then, and so I cracked on and overhauled the engine bay.

Regretting doing it all in one night, as I didn't manage to take the time I wanted to deep clean all the areas on my list, but never the less it's a vast improvement on how it looked before.

Wile it was in pieces I also re-worked the injector wiring, and the coil pack wiring.

Pictures

In Pieces




Aluminium tape to add a little more heat protection

v





Painted the Inlet manifold in Satin Black, but it reacted slightly on the top. Luckily the rest of it was ok, so now its back on the car I can mask it all up and re-do the top. might even go matte black instead of satin.





And the re-assembly begins





Same process as above with aluminium foil and conduit for heat protection



the wiring loom is very awkward, there's not a lot of slack to play with, but I might find a way to rework it.














I feel less ashamed to pop the hood now


----------



## Stan2515

Nice work, really looking good. I like your efforts on the re-wiring. Keep it up!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Stan2515 said:


> Nice work, really looking good. I like your efforts on the re-wiring. Keep it up!


Thanks mate, hopefully it does the job!


----------



## thirtytwopence

Your bay is looking really great.
Loving the wiring tidy up, makes a real difference, really want to do that now. did you wrap the coilpack wiring in heat tape before putting it in the conduit? Also where did you get the conduit from?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

thirtytwopence said:


> Your bay is looking really great.
> Loving the wiring tidy up, makes a real difference, really want to do that now. did you wrap the coilpack wiring in heat tape before putting it in the conduit? Also where did you get the conduit from?


Thanks mate. Yes i wrapped the coilpack wiring, id be crazy not to lol

The conduit was bits i pilfered from work but ill grab the info for it later


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

In for a right Flocking.

a good friend has been doing flocking at work. he has now purchased the kit to DIY. so for the price of materials and a couple of beers I will be going Flocking crazy with the TT.

no engine bay plastics though..... that's just not right.

The original plan was to try and obtain a black interior- i.e lower dash, centre console, door trims, rear door cards (I have front in black already) boot trims etc. But for the price, I might aswell flock all the grey panels. if I hate It I can just buy black panels anyway, If I like it then it will be a nice custom interior.

few weeks away from taking the plunge, so watch this space


----------



## thirtytwopence

Sounds good
I hope you're going to flock the wheels :lol:


----------



## L33JSA

Looks really good other than that hideous overbraid you've used on the pipe from the charge pipe to the N75.

Just replace it with some silicone tube - will be much neater and cleaner.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Looks really good other than that hideous overbraid you've used on the pipe from the charge pipe to the N75.
> 
> Just replace it with some silicone tube - will be much neater and cleaner.


I agree- i had a kit so i thought id try it on an easy pipe. Definately replacing it, once i change the TiP i will get a custom silicone pipe made to route nicely round the TiP. Place in derby will supply it if i provide a mould?dye? (Piece of steel bar bent to shape)


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Place in derby will supply it if i provide a mould?dye? (Piece of steel bar bent to shape)


DPH?

I wouldn't bother....just get a length of silicone tubing with the correct diameter and route that instead.


----------



## brian1978

Anyone know where I can buy that plastic conduit and 3 way junctions you used to tidy up the injector wireing loom?


----------



## mike225

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Ok, back to the rear seat delete.
> 
> I have been busy today, stripping the boot panel and re-laying black carpet, and spraying the back plastic, and the 4 net anchors in black.
> 
> here's the pics;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has the rear panels in Black, please inbox me.


Can i just ask what did you use to strip the boot floor with?


----------



## brian1978

Your cargo net is on backwards


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Place in derby will supply it if i provide a mould?dye? (Piece of steel bar bent to shape)
> 
> 
> 
> DPH?
> 
> I wouldn't bother....just get a length of silicone tubing with the correct diameter and route that instead.
Click to expand...

Thats them yep

I dont want to have to secure it in view, so i want the bends correct to get it over without support. They've already agreed to do any custom bits i want as long as its a shape they can do, and they are very reasonably priced


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

brian1978 said:


> Anyone know where I can buy that plastic conduit and 3 way junctions you used to tidy up the injector wireing loom?


I can put a kit together if u want?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Oh and mike, it just pulls off


----------



## brian1978

fixitagaintomoz said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where I can buy that plastic conduit and 3 way junctions you used to tidy up the injector wireing loom?
> 
> 
> 
> I can put a kit together if u want?
Click to expand...

Ooh want want...

How much m8?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

brian1978 said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where I can buy that plastic conduit and 3 way junctions you used to tidy up the injector wireing loom?
> 
> 
> 
> I can put a kit together if u want?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ooh want want...
> 
> How much m8?
Click to expand...

To do the same as i did- the coilpack wiring and the injector loom? Ill check on the prices- i wont aim to make money from it, and think its under £15 for the lot, plus what ever postage costs. Might need to be tough packaging to prevent the conduit getting crushed...


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Badger 5 v2.2 TIP in black ordered from Matty on here. Just need some 630cc injectors then its back down to WAK to get the mapping finished....

i think thats my limit then. Ill be sticking with standard DP amd exhaust mani, but i should still be knocking on the door of the magic 300 i reckon.

i genuinely think if that doesn't keep me happy power wise, then there will be a very exciting new build thread in the future.... v8TT anyone?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Went to buy some touch up denim blue paint today.

also walked out with a few cans of a new colour to try out.....



So when i get round to it the wheels should look different to most on here....

aswell as the rear valance and the front grille plastics



The rear valance will be a standard 225 one painted, keeping the v6 one just in case. I took the idea from the new bmws rocking around with a dark grey valance instead of black, and i quite like the contrast, so thought id give it a go with VAG colours instead


----------



## Duggy

fixitagaintomoz said:


> L33JSA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks really good other than that hideous overbraid you've used on the pipe from the charge pipe to the N75.
> 
> Just replace it with some silicone tube - will be much neater and cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree- i had a kit so i thought id try it on an easy pipe. Definately replacing it, once i change the TiP i will get a custom silicone pipe made to route nicely round the TiP. Place in derby will supply it if i provide a mould?dye? (Piece of steel bar bent to shape)
Click to expand...

Drop me a sketch with lengths and angles etc and I can draw it up on CAD if you need it 

John


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Duggy said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> L33JSA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks really good other than that hideous overbraid you've used on the pipe from the charge pipe to the N75.
> 
> Just replace it with some silicone tube - will be much neater and cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree- i had a kit so i thought id try it on an easy pipe. Definately replacing it, once i change the TiP i will get a custom silicone pipe made to route nicely round the TiP. Place in derby will supply it if i provide a mould?dye? (Piece of steel bar bent to shape)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Drop me a sketch with lengths and angles etc and I can draw it up on CAD if you need it
> 
> John
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer- ill bare that in mind


----------



## Grahamstt

This is what you need for the satin finish on the inlet manifold








Looks good when done


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I had considered a similar paint, but that looks spot on. Where is that from?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Being in a week of recovery after an operation does have its perks.

I have had perfect weather today to prep and paint my strut brace, and heat shield.

Firstly a bit of high build filler primer, to smooth it all out



then the paint and gloss





should be dry later and ill fit them back in and get a pic or 2


----------



## tnewson

You must be miles away from me, it's absolutely hammering it down here! It's my excuse for being shit at spraying 

tnewson


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Very sunny here in the midlands 8)

Had a toy with the original air box, now that i have the rest of the plastics in, to see how it looked



but i don't like it. i think its time to see how the new painted heat shield looks in place







waiting for Stainless domed bolts for the strut brace, and going to re-do the trim on the heat shield so that it is all in one run, with no shitty edges.

also the strut tops noe look particulary shitty, so one to fix wheen i change the strut top mounts.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Last bit of tinkering for the day, just because i was bored and curious...


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Look what arrived today 



In the box of bits it goes until i visit Wak for a map tweak woth some 630cc injectors


----------



## Grahamstt

I got the stove paint from Charlies Store in Queensferry.
Also on Amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotspot-Stove-P ... tove+paint


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Grahamstt said:


> I got the stove paint from Charlies Store in Queensferry.
> Also on Amazon
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotspot-Stove-P ... tove+paint


thanks mate. after today i'm undecided on how to finish the manifold, so i'll keep that in mind as an option


----------



## NWDSdaz

Grahamstt said:


> I got the stove paint from Charlies Store in Queensferry.
> Also on Amazon
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotspot-Stove-P ... tove+paint


So do u live near queensferry?i live 5 minutes drive away


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

This next post feels quite daft, and is probably the cheapest, and least significant mod by itself, but pulls other mods together.

Dome nuts.


----------



## Grahamstt

NWDSdaz said:


> Grahamstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got the stove paint from Charlies Store in Queensferry.
> Also on Amazon
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotspot-Stove-P ... tove+paint
> 
> 
> 
> So do u live near queensferry?i live 5 minutes drive away
Click to expand...

I work in Sandycroft -- live in Pensby


----------



## NWDSdaz

Grahamstt said:


> NWDSdaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grahamstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got the stove paint from Charlies Store in Queensferry.
> Also on Amazon
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotspot-Stove-P ... tove+paint
> 
> 
> 
> So do u live near queensferry?i live 5 minutes drive away
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I work in Sandycroft -- live in Pensby
Click to expand...

Oh cool,I work in sandy croft aswel at copart


----------



## hey3688

fixitagaintomoz said:


> This next post feels quite daft, and is probably the cheapest, and least significant mod by itself, but pulls other mods together.
> 
> Dome nuts.


Have you got a link for the dome nuts for the strut brace,or the size needed
thanks
Richie


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

i have a few spare....you ahve PM


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today has been spent on the seats, trying to get them ready to refurb.

instead of clogging this thread up with seat refurbing, i have created a seperate thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=703866

you can use it to see how i went from this



to this (only the seat on the right has been cleaned so far)


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Just a quick update- cars kaput at the minute. Going to be running a seperate thread for the takedown and rebuild of the engine. Once shes back up and running, depending how much she costs to fix ill be back on with the project.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Might have just bought her temporary replacement for while she is off the road.

It might be a £300 car 

It might be french 

It will definately sell for more than i paid which is all i required from a run about.

Pics tomorrow after i collect her (hopefully). Always brave buying a car off ebay without seeing it and trusting it will drive home 110 miles....with out support as im getting the train..... wish me luck!!! I will of course take basic tools with me just in case


----------



## J3SHF

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Might have just bought her temporary replacement for while she is off the road.
> 
> It might be a £300 car
> 
> It might be french
> 
> It will definately sell for more than i paid which is all i required from a run about.
> 
> Pics tomorrow after i collect her (hopefully). Always brave buying a car off ebay without seeing it and trusting it will drive home 110 miles....with out support as im getting the train..... wish me luck!!! I will of course take basic tools with me just in case


I spent £225 on a french car (306 oil burner) to drive me around for the two weeks before I could pick up my TT, sold it for £225 job done. It actually cost £70 more to insure than the TT :mrgreen:

Good luck, looking forward to seeing your pics, I'll bet the colour wasn't anything as bad as the one I had


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

J3SHF said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Might have just bought her temporary replacement for while she is off the road.
> 
> It might be a £300 car
> 
> It might be french
> 
> It will definately sell for more than i paid which is all i required from a run about.
> 
> Pics tomorrow after i collect her (hopefully). Always brave buying a car off ebay without seeing it and trusting it will drive home 110 miles....with out support as im getting the train..... wish me luck!!! I will of course take basic tools with me just in case
> 
> 
> 
> I spent £225 on a french car (306 oil burner) to drive me around for the two weeks before I could pick up my TT, sold it for £225 job done. It actually cost £70 more to insure than the TT :mrgreen:
> 
> Good luck, looking forward to seeing your pics, I'll bet the colour wasn't anything as bad as the one I had
Click to expand...

i have had 4 peugeot 306 diesels in my earlier years, and they are good for the money- never paaid more than £500 for one back then, and only sold them for a change, never any serious problems, other than it not liking hitting a wall at 60mph....

but this is a 1.2 16v frog....lighter and smaller than a 306.... and the colour isnt half bad tbf


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok. 2 pistons are gone. 1 maybe just superficial markings, but the other is definately fooked.

plan if i can get the cash together is 2.0 with forged rods and pistons, relentless manifold and DP with decat, and standard turbo.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Currently trying to put together my shopping list for the rebuild.

I already know who will be doing the machining work, so that's one obstacle over come.

I will aim to do as much of the work myself as possible. Brave? Stupid? Time will tell i suppose. It's the way i am though, i rather invest time and gain skills, than pay someone else to improve their skills. Plus money will be tight for this build :lol:

I am convinced by the IE rifle drilled rods, just need to source them at a good price.

Pistons will probably be JE and going 9:5:1 ratio.

Need to find a 2.0 crank, so if you lot spot one let me know.

The head will probably stay how it is- obviously with a skim and maybe new stem seals. Open to advice on this to be honest as ive not looked into it much, and if someone says "get these valves and unleash more revs" and its cost effective then maybe.... (i know the k04 is running out of puff at high revs but it sounds sweet)

This build will be utilising the standard turbo. I may consider a hybrid in the future, but i want to see how it fares low end in the revs, and a standard turbo should spool nice and early 

Again while she is in pieces and it makes sense, i will be changing the exhaust manifold, probably a relentless v3, and going 3"dp with decat/sport cat.

Clutch wise i will investigate projected power output and then come to my conclusion. A standard clutch is recommended to be ok upto 300 bhp.... but im seeking a bit more, and the torque to accompany it, so it will probably have to be uprated.

I already have fmic, induction, a badger 5 tip, and a cat back system, so some 630cc injectors and we will be good to party...

Next step is clearing out the garage to allow room for the front end to be stored safely and space to build the engine.

Wish me luck guys!!!

Oh and at this point i want to thank Lee from BRM for his advice so far, which is gratefully received. He has provided information he could really charge for, so i am grateful he is answering my daft questions!!


----------



## Lollypop86

If you can add some bits I want to your list that would be great lol

J
Xx


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

What would they be?


----------



## Lollypop86

I'll pm it it's extensive lol

J
Xx


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where I can buy that plastic conduit and 3 way junctions you used to tidy up the injector wireing loom?
> 
> 
> 
> I can put a kit together if u want?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ooh want want...
> 
> How much m8?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To do the same as i did- the coilpack wiring and the injector loom? Ill check on the prices- i wont aim to make money from it, and think its under £15 for the lot, plus what ever postage costs. Might need to be tough packaging to prevent the conduit getting crushed...
Click to expand...

Any chance of putting a kit together for me buddy 

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Callum-TT said:


> Any chance of putting a kit together for me buddy


ive put the order in at work for just the injectors side of things, as the standard 2.0 tfsi coilpack casing fits and looks better than what I did, for the same cost. if you want then I can get the injectors stuff for you aswell.


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Callum-TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance of putting a kit together for me buddy
> 
> 
> 
> ive put the order in at work for just the injectors side of things, as the standard 2.0 tfsi coilpack casing fits and looks better than what I did, for the same cost. if you want then I can get the injectors stuff for you aswell.
Click to expand...

Please buddy

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----------



## thebluemax

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Very sunny here in the midlands 8)
> 
> Had a toy with the original air box, now that i have the rest of the plastics in, to see how it looked
> 
> 
> 
> but i don't like it. i think its time to see how the new painted heat shield looks in place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waiting for Stainless domed bolts for the strut brace, and going to re-do the trim on the heat shield so that it is all in one run, with no shitty edges.
> 
> also the strut tops noe look particulary shitty, so one to fix wheen i change the strut top mounts.


what domed bolts ,sizes are they and where whould I get them, btw I'm in dudley mate.


----------



## Skid Mark

Hats off to you for sticking with it, many would have thrown the towel in before now

Might be an idea to change your user name


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

thebluemax said:


> what domed bolts ,sizes are they and where whould I get them, btw I'm in dudley mate.


I can post you some on monday, £5 posted for the strut brace and charge bracket nuts, and the rocker cover nuts aswell. Pm me if you want them


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Skid Mark said:


> Hats off to you for sticking with it, many would have thrown the towel in before now
> 
> Might be an idea to change your user name


 Cheers mate, where's the fun in scrapping her or taking her to a garage and getting shafted?


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> thebluemax said:
> 
> 
> 
> what domed bolts ,sizes are they and where whould I get them, btw I'm in dudley mate.
> 
> 
> 
> I can post you some on monday, £5 posted for the strut brace and charge bracket nuts, and the rocker cover nuts aswell. Pm me if you want them
Click to expand...

I would take some of those if you have enough. Just wait until the conduit bits turn up though and send as one.

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Callum-TT said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thebluemax said:
> 
> 
> 
> what domed bolts ,sizes are they and where whould I get them, btw I'm in dudley mate.
> 
> 
> 
> I can post you some on monday, £5 posted for the strut brace and charge bracket nuts, and the rocker cover nuts aswell. Pm me if you want them
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would take some of those if you have enough. Just wait until the conduit bits turn up though and send as one.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Click to expand...

I should have mate


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Callum-TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thebluemax said:
> 
> 
> 
> what domed bolts ,sizes are they and where whould I get them, btw I'm in dudley mate.
> 
> 
> 
> I can post you some on monday, £5 posted for the strut brace and charge bracket nuts, and the rocker cover nuts aswell. Pm me if you want them
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would take some of those if you have enough. Just wait until the conduit bits turn up though and send as one.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I should have mate
Click to expand...

Superb. Let me know costs

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

ok, so realising this may be my only chance to do it, i have made an enquiry about turning my stock turbo into a hybrid.

not making any promises, but if funds allow then this will be the way i go.

got to say, i am definately glad for all the help im getting from folks on here, very glad indeed!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

a while ago I tried to do a before and after of my engine bay. just found the earliest photo I took of the bay, so this makes for the most accurate before and after 

Before



After



makes the work seem worth it now, although this is the current state


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> ok, so realising this may be my only chance to do it, i have made an enquiry about turning my stock turbo into a hybrid.


Personally I wouldnt unless you're planning on getting decent manifold to go with it.

....and even then if it was me I'd spend my money on a GT28 and appropriate manifold - you'll get a lot more power out of not too much more money.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> ok, so realising this may be my only chance to do it, i have made an enquiry about turning my stock turbo into a hybrid.
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I wouldnt unless you're planning on getting decent manifold to go with it.
> 
> ....and even then if it was me I'd spend my money on a GT28 and appropriate manifold - you'll get a lot more power out of not too much more money.
Click to expand...

Was going to go for a relentless v3 manifold to go with it. Is this not considered to be any good then?


----------



## L33JSA

If you're going with Relentless....go with one of the new version 4s


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok thanks.

My reasoning behind the hybrid was earlier spool than standard due to the higher capacity engine.

Am i correct that the hybrid will spool quicker than a gt28, but the gt28 will kick its ass on top end?


----------



## L33JSA

Correct.

Don't get hung up on spool charactistics though of relatively smaller end turbo's as there really isnt a whole lot in it....and mid/top end soon makes you forget anything about spool times anyway.

Also you can have a turbo that spools up too soon which lands you with surge. You can make a standard k04 turbo surge on a standard 1.8T with a 3" tip.

Hybrid K04s spool slightly later than standard K04s - also having a tubular manifold will make it spool slightly slower too but will help it top end.

Lots of pro's and cons.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

There is lots to consider to be honest.

It will all depend on how money looks when it comes to the rebuild. The bottom end will be good for either eventuality.

Ill hold off on the turbo and manifold until i get an idea of cost and how much ive got coming in ( thats the downsjde to a commission based job- it can be sporadic)

Am i right in also thinking that a gt28 will want more revs than standard to optimise the power?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Made a bit of progress tonight. Disconnected all the electrical connections, and water connections.

My next questions are;

How do i discharge the aircon system?

where do i crane from on the gearbox side?

And to check its just a case of shafts off the box and driveshaft unbolted...wait does the power steering rack get involved/in the way?

Then brace her on the crane, unbolt the 3 mounts and bring her out slowly?

Oh and a pic for good measure


----------



## tommatt90

Air con- when I removed my entire system I cut a pipe and hoped for the best lol...

Sure you unscrew the black cap and press the nozzle in to release the gas. It's dangerous stuff tbh

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok ill give the valve a press and hold my breath lol


----------



## tommatt90

Sure there's gotta be a safer way lol. Wear a mask with a suitable filter

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tommatt90

Don't get your hand near it either lol.. It's not legal to DIY as far as I know..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Done, and disconnected the 2 connections to the pump.

so by my reckoning that's the front end ready to come off


----------



## roddy

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Done, and disconnected the 2 connections to the pump.
> 
> so by my reckoning that's the front end ready to come off


aparently you are lucky to be alive, and a criminal !!   :roll:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

It would appear so


----------



## jamman

I'd listen to lee when it comes to the GT28/hybrid question as I've yet to be impressed with any of the hybrid numbers if I'm honest and Lee has extensive knowledge of both hybrids and the GT28 series.

You only got to look at Matts GT2871 numbers with Lee's engine work and WAKs map at the RR day.

Not that I'm biased of course :lol:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

jamman said:


> I'd listen to lee when it comes to the GT28/hybrid question as I've yet to be impressed with any of the hybrid numbers if I'm honest and Lee has extensive knowledge of both hybrids and the GT28 series.
> 
> You only got to look at Matts GT2871 numbers with Lee's engine work and WAKs map at the RR day.
> 
> Not that I'm biased of course :lol:


I don't doubt that the gt2871 will be a good option, and if cost was no issue then that's the route i would be going down. I just need to see how funds look as the build continues. Who wouldnt want 430bhp on tap?!

Dont forget i didnt want to be doing any of this at this stage, and im only rebuildung it due to the piston dieing on me, so didnt have a wad of cash set to one side for the project...... but if i do get the funds then a BT build will be fun....


----------



## Mondo

A reliable hybrid would be easier, cheaper, quicker (to do) and still get around 300bhp. But if you want Big Power then there's no question; BT is the way to go.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well some news came through this morning that makes the decision a bit easier. My girlfriend is being made redundant, so bt or hybrid at this stage would be financially irresponsible. I will still build the bottom end as planned to make a bt an option once my disposable income is mine again and not paying the girlfriends half of the bills.


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Done, and disconnected the 2 connections to the pump.
> 
> so by my reckoning that's the front end ready to come off


By my reckoning that's a potential 5 years in prison lol [smiley=bigcry.gif]

You lift the engine out by the holes on the left of the head by the engine code and by the black bracket on the opposite side of the head - you don't attach anything to the gearbox.

Bad news about your gfs redundancy - hopefully she'll find something soon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So the head needs to go back on? Thats annoying lol


----------



## L33JSA

Ah yes......my bad it's off isnt it.

Need to find a couple of decent sized bolts to attach a chain to then - or alternatively just wrap some rope/straps around the block a few times and lift it out that way


----------



## jamman

Sorry to hear about your ladies bad news hopefully something will come up quickly.


----------



## NoMark

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Well some news came through this morning that makes the decision a bit easier. My girlfriend is being made redundant, so bt or hybrid at this stage would be financially irresponsible. I will still build the bottom end as planned to make a bt an option once my disposable income is mine again and not paying the girlfriends half of the bills.


Send her out to work at night on the local street corner.......!

I'll get my coat :roll:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Bad news about your gfs redundancy - hopefully she'll find something soon.





jamman said:


> Sorry to hear about your ladies bad news hopefully something will come up quickly.


thanks guys. She is actually happy because she hated the job but didnt want to quit before 2 years so she wouldnt be seen to be job hopping.

the main issue is that i have said i will support us while she finds something she likes, not just what ever becomes available. Hopefully she can get a job in the field she wants pretty soon, just depends on the next intake in our area.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

NoMark said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well some news came through this morning that makes the decision a bit easier. My girlfriend is being made redundant, so bt or hybrid at this stage would be financially irresponsible. I will still build the bottom end as planned to make a bt an option once my disposable income is mine again and not paying the girlfriends half of the bills.
> 
> 
> 
> Send her out to work at night on the local street corner.......!
> 
> I'll get my coat :roll:
Click to expand...

please do lol


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So in terms of lifting points these 2 must be ok?

Im thinking through the gearbox mount, like so- the red indicates the loop around the mount 


and this hole on the other engine mount


----------



## L33JSA

Yup....both fine.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok so, what's the plan?

The fluid feed to the top of the gearbox, how do i disconnect that without leaking half of the brake fluid?

Powersteering pipework. Do i undo the pump from the engine and leave it in the car, or undo the pipe from the pump?


----------



## L33JSA

Remove the very right hand side connection - put a pipe over the end with a bolt in it - zip tied at each end and zip tie out the way pointing upwards.

Drain the power steering fluid and disconnect both pipes and leave in engine bay - watch out for the 2 sealing washers on the power steering banjo....although to be fair you probably wont re-use them anyway.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Remove the very right hand side connection - put a pipe over the end with a bolt in it - zip tied at each end and zip tie out the way pointing upwards.
> 
> Drain the power steering fluid and disconnect both pipes and leave in engine bay - watch out for the 2 sealing washers on the power steering banjo....although to be fair you probably wont re-use them anyway.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks lee, helpful as ever!

Looks like the powersteering pipe might be in need if replacement. Ill have a light dig at the rust and see how bad it really is, hopefully its just surface rust- fingers crossed!


----------



## sco

Respect for getting stuck into this on your driveway - hope the weather holds till it's finished :wink:

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers mate, as long as it holds til the engine is in the garage then i'll be happy!

I then expect it to be a little while before she's back on the road again, so if the weather gets bad by then itll be a gazebo jobby


----------



## sco

If you add your location to your profile maybe somebody is nearby that can provide an extra pair of hands to help you get the engine out.

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Not a bad shout simon on adding my location just for general reasons. In terms of getting her out, ive got a pal who is lending me the crane and is going to lend a hand with removal


----------



## sco

ok you are only about 40mins up the A5 from me so if you get stuck give me a shout.

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks pal, i'll bare that in mind.

proper itching to get the engine out and stripped down! engine stand should be arriving today


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cant seem to source a crank for a decent price- best ive found is a 79,000 miler for £200


----------



## L33JSA

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-SEAT- ... 1c4345c69f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BORA-2-0-8 ... 3a93d37499

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-VW-BORA- ... 418407be07


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks lee- they are all the cast ones yes?


----------



## L33JSA

Yup. You'll struggle to break one of them trust me.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok thanks mate- hopefully the one i buy isn't worn too bad


----------



## L33JSA

Shouldn't be worn at all unless there has been a failure of some kind.....that's what bearings are there for.

Get the machine shop to check and polish it.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Fingers crossed. Right lets get one ordered 

Haha love it. Silly low offer accepted


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Fingers crossed. Right lets get one ordered
> 
> Haha love it. Silly low offer accepted


Good lad 

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Bit more progress tonight, prop shaft unbolted- well i think- just the 3 bolts from back to front?

Disconnected the powersteering, and the clutch feed.

Running low on room in the garage, so i had to improvise...



now onto the head side of things. Is this damage an issue?



I also need to check the valves, so bit of wd40 in the inlet and exhaust side with the valves closed, and watch for leaks?


----------



## L33JSA

Don't bother wasting your time on that head......the combustion chambers are past it.

Source a good used head instead.


----------



## Callum-TT

As Lee said but if possible might be worth looking for a large port AGU head mate.

Might as well improve head flow.

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Fair enough. Agu will require i different inlet manifold to match up wont it? Or just porting the existing manifold?


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Fair enough. Agu will require i different inlet manifold to match up wont it? Or just porting the existing manifold?


Well if you were planing ok keeping the small port inlet then no need to change to large port head.

I'm getting an SEM inlet manifold but there are other large port inlet manifolds out there including the standard AGU inlet but the orientation of the charge hoses and throttle body is the same as the 180 (left hand side input) so not sure if it would work without rerouting some pipes.

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----------



## L33JSA

You can get a transition spacer to fit inbetween the small port inlet and the large port head.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Yeah the plan was standard inlet.... cant be too much work involved to port it to match? Ive actually found a good agu head, but apx heads seem harder at the right price


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Agu head purchased. Worst case if i dont use it i can rebuild it at a later date ready for the BT


----------



## L33JSA

If you dont use the AGU head....what else are you going to use instead?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> If you dont use the AGU head....what else are you going to use instead?


I will still be on the look for an apx head at a good price. The agu was a good price so i couldnt say no, and i can collect from round the corner from a customer im meeting this afternoon


----------



## L33JSA

Why bother spending more money on an APX head to fit, and then remove when/if you go BT.

Just fit the AGU head and forget about it.


----------



## Callum-TT

L33JSA said:


> You can get a transition spacer to fit inbetween the small port inlet and the large port head.


I have one of these in my garage. It's Pete's but as he now have large port to large port it's going spare if you want.

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Missed that post first time round.... yes callum if pete is ok with it can i purchase said spacer?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Head collected, engine crane collected, ready to rock n roll


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I have stumbled upon this page about the engine break in process. looks interesting, and the logic seems sound. What do you guys think?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Missed that post first time round.... yes callum if pete is ok with it can i purchase said spacer?


Yes you can mate.

I'll PM you details mate

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----------



## L33JSA

Don't be worrying about running in procedures yet as it will only get lost in the thread - wait until nearer the time but in a nutshell yes you run it in fairly aggressively upto a point - and dont pussy around.

I'll tell you what I do nearer the time.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

True. I nèed to get the engine out first!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

The supplier of the Crank has just sent me this message on eBay, saying they found that it is a bit scratched. looks more than just a bit scratched to me...


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well today was fun. Engine removal on my drive in the rain :x





Went pretty smoothly, until i tried to seperate the box from the block in my garage. One of the top bolts sheered off


so my brother welded a nut to it, and it snapped again. Looks like the machine shop will have an extra job to do for me.

The clutch was still alive, but wouldn't have had much life left, glad thats the case really, makes the job a hell of a lot easier while its off the car!





so thats it for the day, waiting for a m12 long reach socket to be able to take the dmf off, my 1/2" halfords one just couldnt reach


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> The supplier of the Crank has just sent me this message on eBay, saying they found that it is a bit scratched. looks more than just a bit scratched to me...


That's goosed....you don't want that.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ive already got it refunded. The hunt continues, plenty of time to be fair.


----------



## tommatt90

Let's hope mine don't look like that lol, that ones a shocker

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Took the chance to jet down the engine bay today. Its quite nice to get a chance to clean all the areas otherwise un-reachable. Its also gave me inspiration to remove the subframe and clean up and hammerite all the components.

Logic being that if its all clean when it goes in if any leaks develop i will be able to pinpoint where. Looks like the oil return gasket from the turbo has been leaking, so the engine and gearbox are all filfthy. While i noticed this to be the case a while back it was impossible to tell if it was new or old build up.

Plus thinking about it the subframe will need to be dropped anyway come reassembly time, due to the DP change and fitment.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Sod it. New relentless x pro v4 ordered. 3" dp and decat will be ordered too.

I'm going to get my brother involved to build a copy of the sportlite gt exhaust as used on the blue bandit on here.

now with decat and only a centre box in the system flow will be more than adequate for my setup. The consideration though, is 2.5" or 3". Is 3" going to be deeper and bòomier than 2.5". Will 2.5" be a bit raspier?


----------



## L33JSA

3" all the way through. Keep the flow consistent. If it's too loud add boxes to quieten it down.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Right then guys. The new agu head needs a thorough clean. It was kept in a dusty environment that was also used for spraying and powdercoating.

I want to completely strip down, clean, and rebuild the head. I know the valves and lifters all need to go back from where they come from, and ive borrowed a valve removal tool. How do i go about removing the cams from the chain. I know it has to be tdc and there are timing marks on the cams, 16 links apart i believe?

How do i get the chain off the tensioner though?

The valves themselves also need a good clean- any advice? I saw a youtube video with a guy using a drill to hold the valves ( with masking tape to prevent marking them) and a brass wheel to clean them. Brass being softer than the steel so not marking the valves. Has anyone tried this before?

Ill try and get some pics up later showing the new head in all its glory 

here they are


----------



## L33JSA

My advice - take it to your machine shop and let them do it. They will also be able to tell you if the guides are worn and therefore need replacing, replace your valve stem oil seals, cut any new seats it may need, re-lap your valves in, skim and pressure test it and they will also set the cams and chains back up properly.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thats an option worth looking into, however i was hoping to get my hands dirty so to speak. Dont forget ive got my knackered apx head to practice on first.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

This is the point i am starting thinking about valves. Ive read that really only the exhaust valves need upgrading to bump up the revs a little, is this the case? only to say 7500, so that IF i go BT i can get more from it. Plus high revs sounds cool


----------



## roddy

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Sod it. New relentless x pro v4 ordered. 3" dp and decat will be ordered too.
> 
> I'm going to get my brother involved to build a copy of the sportlite gt exhaust as used on the blue bandit on here.
> 
> now with decat and only a centre box in the system flow will be more than adequate for my setup. The consideration though, is 2.5" or 3". Is 3" going to be deeper and bòomier than 2.5". Will 2.5" be a bit raspier?


i have long been interested in fitting this,, i see they are now onto vers 4..are you importing it from SSauto in the US,, i notice their price is 442,, do you know if this price includes any import tax ..


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

roddy said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sod it. New relentless x pro v4 ordered. 3" dp and decat will be ordered too.
> 
> I'm going to get my brother involved to build a copy of the sportlite gt exhaust as used on the blue bandit on here.
> 
> now with decat and only a centre box in the system flow will be more than adequate for my setup. The consideration though, is 2.5" or 3". Is 3" going to be deeper and bòomier than 2.5". Will 2.5" be a bit raspier?
> 
> 
> 
> i have long been interested in fitting this,, i see they are now onto vers 4..are you importing it from SSauto in the US,, i notice their price is 442,, do you know if this price includes any import tax ..
Click to expand...

Cant remember where it was lol, it was late at night! I think it worked out at 280 delivered. Then i'll have tax on top i think.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Looks like i'm playing the waiting game now on parts. So in the interim aswell as all the cleaning and painting of the engine and subframe, i might aswell do the alloy refurb ive been putting off, and the headlight upgrades that again were put off due to not wanting to have the car off the road. More to come on this, but i think they will look 8)


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> This is the point i am starting thinking about valves. Ive read that really only the exhaust valves need upgrading to bump up the revs a little, is this the case? only to say 7500, so that IF i go BT i can get more from it. Plus high revs sounds cool


All valves need doing as well as the valve springs to ensure you don't get valve bounce at high revs too.

I wouldn't take the standard setup to anything over around 7200rpm really

You're probably looking at at least £750-1000 for a proper valve train setup.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is the point i am starting thinking about valves. Ive read that really only the exhaust valves need upgrading to bump up the revs a little, is this the case? only to say 7500, so that IF i go BT i can get more from it. Plus high revs sounds cool
> 
> 
> 
> All valves need doing as well as the valve springs to ensure you don't get valve bounce at high revs too.
> 
> I wouldn't take the standard setup to anything over around 7200rpm really
> 
> You're probably looking at at least £750-1000 for a proper valve train setup.
Click to expand...

yeah i got looking last night.... valves will have to wait and be done if/when i go BT. Ill leave the limit where it is for now, then when the time is right and i can go to like 8000 then it will be a big jump and feel good


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

One of my customers has given me access on a saturday to their parts cleaner and steam cleaner. Cant wait, just need to get everything disassembled by next Saturday and load the Clio up!

Managed to remove most of the gumf from the block today, and got it onto the engine stand. Just gotta take off the sump and start the disassembly now. The more i remove the more i wish i had taken more photos! Just a bit difficult with filthy hands, so i may be posting some "where the heck does this bit go" pictures later on!


----------



## tommatt90

You gonna paint the block? If so what with does anyone know? I wanna get mine painted up 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## V6RUL

Good luck.
Pictures are good for us and a great rebuild aid.
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well from this stage its all parts ive not removed or been involved with before, so there will be a lot more photos. Ive managed to bag and label 90% of the bolts so it shouldn't cause me too many issues hopefully :/


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

tommatt90 said:


> You gonna paint the block? If so what with does anyone know? I wanna get mine painted up
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, thats something im going to look into. In the past my friend has painted his gearbox pink and his block sky blue... so it cant have been specific paint? I think it just needs to be high temp paint really.

I am considering colours myself, im thinking the subframe, wishbone and ARB should be red just so that the low down shots that see through the wheels pick up a glimpse of colour.

Engine block and gearbox im undecided, but they will probably be black to be honest.


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> tommatt90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You gonna paint the block? If so what with does anyone know? I wanna get mine painted up
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, thats something im going to look into. In the past my friend has painted his gearbox pink and his block sky blue... so it cant have been specific paint? I think it just needs to be high temp paint really.
> 
> I am considering colours myself, im thinking the subframe, wishbone and ARB should be red just so that the low down shots that see through the wheels pick up a glimpse of colour.
> 
> Engine block and gearbox im undecided, but they will probably be black to be honest.
Click to expand...

Pete and I have looked into this ourselves mate.

He's toying with a couple of colours and I'm trying to find someone who can mix a specific colour for me as a high temp paint.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I am starting to like the idea of white, with black ancilaries. Maybe throw some colour in but keep it subtle


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well for under a tenner this was a must buy. This will make the exhaust easier to fabricate


----------



## asahartz

fixitagaintomoz said:


> tommatt90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You gonna paint the block? If so what with does anyone know? I wanna get mine painted up
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, thats something im going to look into. In the past my friend has painted his gearbox pink and his block sky blue... so it cant have been specific paint? I think it just needs to be high temp paint really.
> 
> I am considering colours myself, im thinking the subframe, wishbone and ARB should be red just so that the low down shots that see through the wheels pick up a glimpse of colour.
> 
> Engine block and gearbox im undecided, but they will probably be black to be honest.
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's just that the engine in a Mini is quite exposed, but no matter what I paint on my Mini engine blocks I can't get any of them to stay on, long-term. I've tried several brands & colours of specific engine lacquer and they've all come off within two years.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Im assuming the block was chemically cleaned, with no traces of oil?

Might need some investigation before i put any paint on!


----------



## asahartz

Of course, and I'm talking about several different engines in different cars. But as I say, they're very exposed, not even a radiator in front to keep the weather off, and they've all been driven through the winter as daily drivers.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

well im thinking of using bbq type paint i think, out door and expected to deal with heat... good logic right?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Tonight i managed to get a bit more tinkering done.

starting with the dogbone bushes.

well mine were well and truly knackered, thats for sure.


And they had left themselves attached to the mount




so out came the dremel and the wire brush



Then applied the grease before reassembly


then it was on to the cam belt end, to get the water pump, the cam pulley and the tensioner off











this is how the block now site, just a few more bits then ill flip her over and start on the bottom


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today i got a few hours to myself, so after rearranging the shelves and gathering all the parts together i cracked on stripping her down to get the pistons out.

The parts shelf- and thats not all of it either!



Now for anyone typing out a search for sump removal, or pick up pipe cleaning or replacement, here's a few pics of what you'll be faced with.

There are 20 bolts to remove, 4 of which are on the left of this picture and are hard to access when the gearbox is on





Then in this picture i'm holding the pick up pipe that needs removing. It should at worst look like this


bare in mind thats got more bits in it than is ideal, but still allows the oil to flow. Either way if you're at this stage you're either cleaning it very well or replacing it.

Anyway, back to my takedown.

i took the oil pump out, 3 bolts and the cog bolt, and then took the rods and pistons out. Im glad that the crank looks perfext and so do the bearings, so they will be on ebay for a bargain price. 4 rods and bearings and a crank should be of use to someone out there?





The offending piston. Second ring has gone. The marks in the top of the piston were bits of the ring hitting the cylinder head.





So that's where i'm at. The crank bolt is a bugger so that will be removed when i take the parts for a cleaning session at a hgv garage ran by a friendly customer of mine.

just a question about this gasket. Its for the oil filter housing, but doesn't seem to want to come off. I'm tempted to leave it there- if it stays on through the cleaning process it can stay there!


----------



## Matt B

I remember helping lee remove the crank bolt on my engine - we had a breaker bar and then the handle of a trolley jack on the end of that in order to crack it - bent rod comedy moment
With about 6 foot of lever on it - it will shift


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

How did you stop the crank moving? I tried a rubber handled hammer wedged in there.


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> How did you stop the crank moving? I tried a rubber handled hammer wedged in there.


Block of wood against the crank together with a decent sized bar should suffice.



fixitagaintomoz said:


> The marks in the top of the piston were bits of the ring hitting the cylinder head.


The majority of the marks on the piston was down to detonation not rings.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> How did you stop the crank moving? I tried a rubber handled hammer wedged in there.
> 
> 
> 
> Block of wood against the crank together with a decent sized bar should suffice.
> 
> 
> 
> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> The marks in the top of the piston were bits of the ring hitting the cylinder head.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The majority of the marks on the piston was down to detonation not rings.
Click to expand...

Ill give it another bash tonight to undo the crank.

And the marks, i know the majority are detonation, theres just a few that had definate square edges that i couldnt explain before i saw the ring.


----------



## L33JSA

Oh & forgot to say pull that gasket off and replace it - it looks goosed and will only cause an oil leak otherwise.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Oh & forgot to say pull that gasket off and replace it - it looks goosed and will only cause an oil leak otherwise.


Will do, dont want a leak on the fresh paint job!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok, now that the engine is fully disassembled (except for the crank), its time to set about cleaning all the engine components.

A good customer of mine who runs a hgv maintenance garage, has granted me access to the parts cleaner, and the steam cleaner for the gearbox.

now on the topic of the gearbox, this is far dirtier than i expected. The upper viewing hole cover was missing when i purchased the car, so that will have lead to a small amount of dirt, but this looks more like a leak from somewhere?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So to remove the crank bolt Retropower in Nuneaton have got a clever little tool.



Now it withstood the pressure of the last time it was used, but my bolt was so tight it bent the arm. They are going to remake it with a thicker arm for next time! Ended up requiring a lot of heat and a buzz gun.

But i've finally been able to strip the block down fully


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So for anyone interested, the parts are soon to be ordered. A fellow forum member is placing an order that he has kindly allowed me to be part of and negotiated some good discount, meaning the bottom end will be far stronger than i will ever need it to be 

Once the order is placed i will lavish you with more specifics, but suffice it to say the parts will look far too good to be fitted and hidden!

Guesses are welcome as to the parts.... interested to see what people think matches the above description...


----------



## L33JSA

Leak looks to have been the main primary shaft seal on the gearbox, it could also have possibly been the rear crank seal.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

When i take the csc out is there a seal behind there? Is that the shaft seal you are refering to? The crank seal looked spot on to be honest.


----------



## L33JSA

Yup that's the one.....whenever I do an engine build or change the clutch I always fit a new one.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Yup that's the one.....whenever I do an engine build or change the clutch I always fit a new one.


yeah its a bit of a no brainer to be honest- id be daft to keep a potentially 160,000 mile seal in place when it can easily be replaced.

I need to build up a list now though of all the parts im going to need.... could take a while!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok clutch experts out there.

has anyone ran the standard clutch on a 300bhp+ setup successfully? Im thinking there must be people who went hybrid and didnt uprate the clutch?

I had thought it would be good to go uprated clutch in advance of a BT but considering that i am now confident in doing it on the car in the future, i will just do it as and when.


----------



## Mondo

Well, I hope you're not thinking of me as I'm only putting out a fraction over 300bhp on my hybrid. Torque is slightly down on the K04 which suits me and my standard internals.

I went for a Sachs organic and OEM dual mass flywheel, done at the same time as the manifold and hybrid were fitted. OEM clutch was slipping after 10-20k so had to go. Funny; previous OEM clutch lasted years. Anyway, clutch bits were around the £1K mark IIRC.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Mondo said:


> Well, I hope you're not thinking of me as I'm only putting out a fraction over 300bhp on my hybrid. Torque is slightly down on the K04 which suits me and my standard internals.
> 
> I went for a Sachs organic and OEM dual mass flywheel, done at the same time as the manifold and hybrid were fitted. OEM clutch was slipping after 10-20k so had to go. Funny; previous OEM clutch lasted years. Anyway, clutch bits were around the £1K mark IIRC.


Dammit Mondo, not the news i was looking for [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Thanks for your feeback though. so looks like sachs organic is a good mid price option from other things i've read.shame the DMF's are so bloody expensive, but SMF sounds like a bag of nails [smiley=bomb.gif]

saying that this doesnt look bad.......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-1-8-T ... 565c1d715a


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok, so the clutch has been ordered. Hopefully the one i found will be up to scratch. Its a Sachs kevlar embedded clutch, capable of around 350lb which will be plenty for me for now, and at a very good price including the DMF and CSC.

Engine internals are being ordered imminently, so no worries there. Exhaust is also "sorted", but i do need to get some more turbo exhaust studs. 1 was missing, and the other 2 were lose.

Is there an upgraded stud that i should be looking at?

Ive also got a badger bill TIP to go on, and sourced a phenolic spacer to go from my small port intake to my large port AGU head.

Then theres obviously a list as long as my arm for seals, gaskets, bolts and filters.... ill post that list when its ready, see if ive remembered everything or not!

So the help i need for now- exhaust studs!


----------



## Mondo

You don't want a large port IM instead of a transition spacer? Big fat matching TB? No?

Gowon; you know you want to.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Mondo said:


> You don't want a large port IM instead of a transition spacer? Big fat matching TB? No?
> 
> Gowon; you know you want to.


Nah not on this setup. This is being done to a budget that i wasnt budgeting for prior to the engine failure.....

But when the BT happens then so will all the other nicities- IM, TB, WMI, you know the drill


----------



## L33JSA

Oh dear.... you've bought a clutch from Techniclutch.......did you google Techniclutch before purchasing?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

While there are a lot of negative reviews there are also a lot of good. If i recieve sub standard or fake parts i wont be using them.... fingers crossed.


----------



## Ciano91

Great thread and beautiful car!!!!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I tell you what guys n gals, i really am missing driving my TT! Proper withdrawal symptoms!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

clutch is being returned, the DMF looks like its been hacked to pieces for balancing, and there is no timing mark which is annoying. the clutch plate has what llooks like copper pertruding from it in places, and the CSC looks poor quality

response from the seller is that it can be replaced with LUK components, so i am happy with that, i will be visiting the seller to do the swap so i can inspect the parts.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Flow......


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Collected a bora 2.0 block today, and set about removing the crankshaft

this turned out to work ok second time round, but the first attempt lead to the wood slipping and me taking 2 teeth off the oil pump drive gear. Woops!





the 2 side bt side getting the "big bit that the crank sensor reads" swapped over



the gears will swap over, just takes a lot of heat and a gear puller from what ive read, so waiting to borrow one of those.... any offers?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

bloody double post!


----------



## jamman

Hope this all goes well mate.

If I was you I would just PM the feck out of Lee ALL THE TIME :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

jamman said:


> Hope this all goes well mate.
> 
> If I was you I would just PM the feck out of Lee ALL THE TIME :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


once the parts arrive and its reassembly time i can see lee getting pissed off with the amount of questions ill be asking!!!


----------



## sco

fixitagaintomoz said:


> the gears will swap over, just takes a lot of heat and a gear puller from what ive read, so waiting to borrow one of those.... any offers?


I've got several two leg and three leg pullers if you need them.

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Youre a gentleman/gentlelady, ill see if anyone i know local has one, if not i may take you up on your offer.


----------



## sco

This is the style of two leg puller I have http://www.bennetts.com/sykes-pulle...aw-gear-puller-2leg-2213417-417962-828488.php

Looking at the thinness of the gear you are trying to remove you might need this style which loads a larger area of the gear to avoid damaging it; http://www.bennetts.com/sykes-pulle...-bearing-puller-set-2212939-417962-828503.php

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

When it was heated up earlier i did get the gear to spin on the crank, so it should come off fairly easily with a puller. Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated Simon


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Some good news this morning. Looks like the parts are being ordered as we speak, ready to be shipped over to us. It is indeed a happy birthday to me today!!!

Gives me a good incentive to knuckle down now with the tidy up in advance of the rebuild.

Next updates should be about whats being stripped and painted


----------



## pete_slim

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Some good news this morning. Looks like the parts are being ordered as we speak, ready to be shipped over to us. It is indeed a happy birthday to me today!!!
> 
> Gives me a good incentive to knuckle down now with the tidy up in advance of the rebuild.
> 
> Next updates should be about whats being stripped and painted


Happy birthday - It feels like it is my birthday too, although I don't generally like the idea of spending so much money on my birthday..


----------



## Callum-TT

pete_slim said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some good news this morning. Looks like the parts are being ordered as we speak, ready to be shipped over to us. It is indeed a happy birthday to me today!!!
> 
> Gives me a good incentive to knuckle down now with the tidy up in advance of the rebuild.
> 
> Next updates should be about whats being stripped and painted
> 
> 
> 
> Happy birthday - It feels like it is my birthday too, although I don't generally like the idea of spending so much money on my birthday..
Click to expand...

Haha yeah I feel your pain guys 

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

It will feel like my birthday when im driving home from my mapping session with WAK, knowing i can push the engine hard and not worry


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

In actual fact, my latest update is to do with my head strip-down.

here it is, filfthy from being in a dusty garage with overspray from powder coating etc.



I will try to describe the process as best as I can, so that this section may be useful to others. so for that reason i'll drop the term valve removal guide how to in here for the search engine.

Firstly you will need a tensioner tool and ideally a valve spring compressor/ valve removal kit.

you need to mark both cams in line with the arrow- you'll see where I mean. from the 2 marked points there will be 16 chain links in between. this is essential for timing.





undo all of the torx bolts you can see. crack them all off in opposites, so 1 end then the other end and work your way in, then go back and undo fully. then using the tensioner tool compress the tensioner, and then it should all just come away and apart



remove the caps and store them all in their position. I found the pizza boxes from my birthday came in very handy!



so the head is at this stage now



The important thing now is that everything needs to go back from where it came, so with that in mind...





Now onto using the valve removal tool. select the appropriate size to push the cap, and stop the valve moving





then wind until you hear a pop, then a few more full turns. the pop is the collets separating from the cap, and then you wind it until the whole collet is revealed



notice the split? carefully apply pressure with a tiny screwdriver and they will separate. then with a flexible magnet get both parts out





note that they are tapered, with the thicker end going at the top

then remove the spring and cap, and the valve. I bagged each valve, spring, cap and collet and numbered them.





end result





Well, that was fun, now off to get it skimmed and cleaned


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I should be able to do a post a little later with a pic of the head freshly skimmed and cleaned 

Nuneaton Cylinder Rebores are getting the machining work from me, as they have a very good reputation for both work and customer service.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Just got home with the head. Not 100% clean enough to paint, but a lot better than when it went in, and i didnt really ask for a deep clean they just cleaned it as part of the job- so the exterior where it wont affect running isnt spotless. Anyway, here she is











I reckon tomorrow is rebuild day for the head, while i'm in the mood. Valve lapping and seating tomorrow it is then!


----------



## Grahamstt

I would try and get the valve throats a bit cleaner and make sure there's no debris got into the valve guides before you lap in the seats.
If you dont have an air line you can use thin strips of cloth pulled through the guide


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Grahamstt said:


> I would try and get the valve throats a bit cleaner and make sure there's no debris got into the valve guides before you lap in the seats.
> If you dont have an air line you can use thin strips of cloth pulled through the guide


Thanks for the tip, my plan was to get some parrafin cleaner and go over all the underside and ports, then like you suggest a thin rag through the seals. I want to be able to eat my dinner off it!

I am also going to remove a valve from the knackered head to practice with first, to get a feel for the process of lapping.

I will try and get a video of the rebuild process for anyone interested.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Bought some parrafin and made me a parts bath... well kinda :lol:



i am a little confused about the exhaust valves. They are either really badly coked up, or they have a coating on them?





any ideas? The ones on my apx head that i removed seem to have a similar texture but no where near as thick?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Unsure what to do with the valves now. I really dont want to fork out for a new set, but the exhaust valves just aren't right with all that crap on the bottom.

Its frustrating knowing the valves on my apx head are good to go (at a glance), but theres no way that 168000 mile valves are going to match up perfect with 90000 mile guides lol


----------



## roddy

lap in + new guides,,,, which ever is cheaper


----------



## tommatt90

The apx head I have has about 100k on it, could have those valves? As I'm upgrading my valves 

Not sure how it works tho tbh or if they would be suitable lol..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I think the valves are a harder material, and that it's mainly the guides that get worn. I could be wrong though?

I just really wanted to avoid getting new guides put in.

Think I will take it to the shop again and get the tolerances measured, with my APX valves- and take it from there.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

tommatt90 said:


> The apx head I have has about 100k on it, could have those valves? As I'm upgrading my valves
> 
> Not sure how it works tho tbh or if they would be suitable lol..
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you not upgrading to a AGU large port head with your BT build? In fact, have you got a build thread going? be interesting to see what you're up to!


----------



## tommatt90

Yes I have an agu head, but will be using Ferrea valves and upping the revs 

Here's mine:
viewtopic.php?t=684817

Slow progress lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

ahh good stuff, didn't think you would be sticking with your apx head!

I would love to overhaul the whole valve train, but I just cant warrant the cost right now


----------



## tommatt90

Realised I put apx in my original comment instead of agu lol, my bad, yeah I thought that but it's a slow saving and buying process, but may as well do it right once it's out.

If my car wasn't running at the moment I would have gone less cost wise to get it back on the road ASAP 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

for me its a weird situation- my cars off the road, but I have another car so its no real rush in that sense, I just really want to get her up and running again! if I was going BT then I would have done valves as well, but I cant utilise higher revs on a K04 anyway, as the Turbo is way past its best at 6500!

My plan will be to source another head in the future, and rebuild it, source a BT, manifold and DP and fit them all in a long weekend, that's why the block is being built to such high spec now, so that it can stay in lol.

don't get me wrong, if someone said here's a full valve set and springs for £300 I'd snap their hand off and do it now, but that aint gonna happen!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Today has been productive 

Exchanged the clutch, so i now have a luk clutch and pressure plate, with the uprated sachs sprung clutch plate.

Also picked up a working aircon pump from tommatt90 

Onwards and upwards... just waiting on parts


----------



## Callum-TT

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Today has been productive
> 
> Exchanged the clutch, so i now have a luk clutch and pressure plate, with the uprated sachs sprung clutch plate.
> 
> Also picked up a working aircon pump from tommatt90
> 
> Onwards and upwards... just waiting on parts


Good progress mate. I'll keep you updated on delivery.

I got an email yesterday saying the pistons and currently being built and should be ready to ship in a week or two 

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## tommatt90

Cheers again mate! Rocker cover is ace!

Would fully recommend if anyone needs a rocker cover to get one off this guy!! Looks the part 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Callum-TT said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Today has been productive
> 
> Exchanged the clutch, so i now have a luk clutch and pressure plate, with the uprated sachs sprung clutch plate.
> 
> Also picked up a working aircon pump from tommatt90
> 
> Onwards and upwards... just waiting on parts
> 
> 
> 
> Good progress mate. I'll keep you updated on delivery.
> 
> I got an email yesterday saying the pistons and currently being built and should be ready to ship in a week or two
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Click to expand...

awesome mate, thats good that they are keeping you informed of progress. To be honest i say i cant wait to recieve them, but i cant help but be a little scared- when they arrive that means i have to actually do some hard work! 



tommatt90 said:


> Cheers again mate! Rocker cover is ace!
> 
> Would fully recommend if anyone needs a rocker cover to get one off this guy!! Looks the part
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Aww shucks youll make me blush  glad you like it


----------



## Matt B

fixitagaintomoz said:


> for me its a weird situation- my cars off the road, but I have another car so its no real rush in that sense, I just really want to get her up and running again! if I was going BT then I would have done valves as well, but I cant utilise higher revs on a K04 anyway, as the Turbo is way past its best at 6500!
> 
> My plan will be to source another head in the future, and rebuild it, source a BT, manifold and DP and fit them all in a long weekend, that's why the block is being built to such high spec now, so that it can stay in lol.
> 
> don't get me wrong, if someone said here's a full valve set and springs for £300 I'd snap their hand off and do it now, but that aint gonna happen!


I ran standard head on a big turbo for a couple of years - no probs at all


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

What was your rev limit set at?

The only reson i would look at valves come BT time is to get the extra revs required to optimise the turbo. I wouldnt want to push the standard valves much past standard revs.

I think im going to remove the apx valves and check them against the agu guides, all being well ive saved a few bob on new valves then for this build.

Worst case is new guides, but with then only having 90k im hoping they will be ok


----------



## nate42

Running standard APX head with BT and no problems with the head so far. I drive the car daily at the moment. Rev limiter 7200rpm. Haven't done many (only once actually) trackdays yet and those are the true test for built motor. On the street going to 7000rpm every now and then the stock head will last for sure. When the car gets hot on track, then the stock exhaust valves can give up over time.

Keep on building, good job! I wish I had more time to work on my own car [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

nate42 said:


> Running standard APX head with BT and no problems with the head so far. I drive the car daily at the moment. Rev limiter 7200rpm. Haven't done many (only once actually) trackdays yet and those are the true test for built motor. On the street going to 7000rpm every now and then the stock head will last for sure. When the car gets hot on track, then the stock exhaust valves can give up over time.
> 
> Keep on building, good job! I wish I had more time to work on my own car [smiley=bigcry.gif]


ok good stuff, thanks for the info.

I stripped the original APX head last night to retrieve the exhaust valves. All being well today i will get the agu head rebuilt


----------



## merlin c

I love threads like this, so much knowledge and years of experience on show, makes for great reading, even if I have no idea what the hell your all talking about :? still love it [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

merlin c said:


> I love threads like this, so much knowledge and years of experience on show, makes for great reading, even if I have no idea what the hell your all talking about :? still love it [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Thanks merlin, this forum is a wealth of information, ive certainly learnt a lot from what ive read in here! Glad people are enjoying the thread, even if progress is a little slow!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

But of an update.

Today i lapped the valves and started installing them. I have just got 9 intake valves left, but i'll save them for tomorrow.

Pics from the day

Head as clean as it's going to be without an acid dip.



Valves cleaned and ready



Spot the valve that has been lapped



New valve stem seals



Valves lapped







Exhaust valves in place





Its all good fun, hopefully 9 more calves tomorrow then i can rebuild the rest fully


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Im hoping someone comes along with good news and tells me this is ok its just the hydraulic lifter being daft....

I cant see how the valve and collett could have gone back together if it was one groove out, but one valve on cylinder 4 is sticking out a bit more than the rest, through all stages.





Edit

Ive just taken the cams back off and the hydraulic lifter is solid. Now im not 100% clued up on their operation, but i know they have a bit of give for when the cam makes contact, and then i think it stiffens. The one in question has no give and is just stiff. So is it faulty, or just waiting for oil pressure?


----------



## nate42

That is not good. Get a new INA hydraulic lifter. Point of the hydraulic lifters is compensate the wear on the valve. When you start the engine with lifters that are not filled yet the noise is not nice. Once filled the noise disappears as the hydraulic lifter grows. Some cars you can hear the valves tickling before oil pressure gets to the lifters, same effect just takes longer when lifters are fully empty.

So at no point it should lift a valve like that without oil pressure. Lifter is jammed to max length.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

nate42 said:


> That is not good. Get a new INA hydraulic lifter. Point of the hydraulic lifters is compensate the wear on the valve. When you start the engine with lifters that are not filled yet the noise is not nice. Once filled the noise disappears as the hydraulic lifter grows. Some cars you can hear the valves tickling before oil pressure gets to the lifters, same effect just takes longer when lifters are fully empty.
> 
> So at no point it should lift a valve like that without oil pressure. Lifter is jammed to max length.


ok thanks, thats what i thought. Ive got spares from the original head so ill drop one in and re-test it


----------



## L33JSA

How long did you leave it before checking if the valve was being held open, strictly speaking you should leave it at least half an hour for the hydraulic action to release.

Have you checked the height of the valves?

Also, don't use old lifters in a different head - not recommended at all. Use new lifters.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

It was about an hour between fitting and removing the cams.

The valves are all the same height with the lifters removed.

I take your point on not using old lifters, can these be purchased individually? If i had the cash i would do the lot but i'd rather not at this stage.


----------



## L33JSA

You can buy them individually. Make sure you get decent quality ones otherwise you will run into issues further down the line....trust me....been there, done that etc


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ive just seen a guid eon clenaing and rebuilding. Got to be worth a try on that one if its not working anyway. I will report back when ive had a go.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok so for a change of pace I think tonight I will have a look at the headlights. Engine stuff is getting boring now!

I plan on spraying the inserts, de-Tango-ing the indicators, and then a couple of lighting mods...... ive got time while theyre out to have a play so i'll keep you posted with the ideas as I try them


----------



## V6RUL

Gas mark 2 buddy..  
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

V6RUL said:


> Gas mark 2 buddy..
> Steve


Ill try the heat gun first, to avoid a domestic :lol:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

An update on the hydraulic lifters.

The refurb guide i saw said make a sandwich of wood, cloth, lifter, cloth, wood. The hit hard with a hammer to get the centre to drop out.

Well i couldnt get it out completely, but a few attempts and it would nearly come out, then i would push it back in. This has lead to it having virtually the same amount of travel as the rest of the inlet lifters.

What i have noticed though is that the 4 exhaust lifters that were at the cam end have a small amount of travel, but the 4 at the chain end dont move. Also the exhaust cam was very difficult to remove, is this related? I took 2 of the exhaust lifters out and repeated the above process, and got a small amount on travel in them. Im assuming that once they have oil pressure and them moving how they are supposed to, that they will sort them selves out?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

And in other news i have made a start on the headlights.

I have only done one to see if i like it, and i think i do.

Step by step then for anyone that needs a "headlight disassbly guide"

Using a small screwdriver pry the 4 little clips off that hold the lense to the back- 2 top and 2 bottom. Put them safe somewhere.

Next up using a heat gun on low heat work around the seam. I found that doing inner upper corner first was a good place to start. Just heat it and pull firmly but carefully and it will start to come apart, then work your way round heating and pulling until it comes apart.

And then do what you wanna do- in my case spray the insert and tint the indicator insert.





Prep the surface



White spirits to degrease



Couple of coats of daytona grey







Then lacquer









hard to get a decent picture with my phone but the finish is quite good, just needs a cut and polish when the lacquer has fully cured.

opinions? This is the same colour as my grille, rear valance, wheels (to be done) and porsche seat backs (again still to be done)


----------



## J3SHF

Finish looks good to me, will definitely come up better once it's been polished too and as for the colour if it matches your grille then I think it'll look spot on.

Pics up when there back on the car


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

J3SHF said:


> Finish looks good to me, will definitely come up better once it's been polished too and as for the colour if it matches your grille then I think it'll look spot on.
> 
> Pics up when there back on the car


Cheers mate.

Gonna be a while til theyre back on the car properly but i may do a test fit with the bumper to see how they look.

Heres the grille btw, i think the grey and blue go well together



Oh and the strut brace



think i may do the inlet manifold while its off too after seeing yours...


----------



## J3SHF

Thanks it came out just how I intended and it does prove it can be painted in situ with enough care on the masking.

How did you paint your strut brace, I ended up putting a screw in the roof of my shed so I could hang it up to get the paint on more easily :mrgreen:

My front grille has a small split in it so it's another job for me at some point, probably next year as I don't really have the time to remove the bumper to get it out easily.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Did mine flat, just did the underside first, then the top. Bit tricky getting an even coverage and blending around from top to bottom, but much less risk of runs.


----------



## J3SHF

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Did mine flat, just did the underside first, then the top. Bit tricky getting an even coverage and blending around from top to bottom, but much less risk of runs.


I'm getting reasonably good with applying lacquer now lol, to be fair I should have made a jig with a couple of wooden blocks I could have screwed it down onto.

I'll have to figure something out when I paint the V6 extension for the rear spoiler as that's no really going to be possible to hang up. Still not decided on Moro blue body colour, black or ford graphite to match my wheels.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

If/when i get the v6 extension its going daytona grey to match the rest of the car.

I would say that black is safe, moro would look ok and ford to match the wheels will be 8)

In terms of painting again id be tempted to do it in 2 halves, just remember dont paint the contact surface!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I now have a matching pair of headlight inserts







and a matching fuel filler cap


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Where do you get black fuel filler cap bolts from? Or just new shiny standard ones? The heads are slightly shallower than standard m6 socket cap bolts, so any one got any ideas?


----------



## tommatt90

Pro bolt I think mate, rip off though for what they are lol..

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ok thanks tom, ill have to look at options


----------



## tommatt90

No probs bud  spray the standard ones alternatively 

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

tommatt90 said:


> No probs bud  spray the standard ones alternatively
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


I would but the internal faces are a bit knackered from someone using the wrong size hex head to undo them at some stage.

I can find the right bolts cheap cheap like a budgie, just need to work out how to get the existing spacer/washer off the old bolts, or source new ones from somewhere?


----------



## tommatt90

It just twists off that little black cap does 

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers bud- i did try that but it didnt wanna- might try heating gently first


----------



## mullum

i recommend pro bolts (or similar) as cheap ones rust ;-)


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Dont worry- i know my bolts, just didnt know they were called half socket cap


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I need a bit of advice.

Where can i purchase the 3 studs that connect the downpipe and turbo?

Also what is recommended for exhaust manifold nuts? And is oem exhaust manifold gasket ok, or is there a recommended aftermarket one?


----------



## L33JSA

OEM metal gasket - do not use a cheap fibre one.

Either TPS for OEM ones or use these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Aerotight ... 4ad61308c5


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I like the look of them, so 13x m8 and 3x m10. That should hold her together nicely, thanks Lee


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> I like the look of them, so 13x m8 and 3x m10. That should hold her together nicely, thanks Lee


Use the OEM ones for the manifold and those ones I linked for the downpipe.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Well if OEM are up to it then happy days. Oem downpipe studs aswell?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

A bit more disassembly tonight, subframe removal. The balljoints were allready disconnected from the engine removal, so it was just 4 bolts to release the steering rack, and 4 for the subframe itself. Needed doing for the downpipe removal and gives me a chance to give it a good clean and hammerite. Oh...and a new ARB as mine is knackered and small. New eibach adjustable one sourced cheap just need to arrange collection.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

There's no way in hell i was going to leave the subframe in that state! Last night i seperated it all down, and got the wore brush attachment on the drill. I managed to get 90% of the rust off, but the hammerite is supposed to be straight to rust anyway so i wasnt fussed about a perfect prep. I will paint later tonight


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

All painted up 













Should keep the rust at bay


----------



## J3SHF

Great job done, I was the same with mine, doesn't actually take that long either. Hammerite is great stuff for a bit of a light restoration.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Its just hard knowing when to stop- i dont want to strip every part off, but big bits like this definitely need attention while its apart.


----------



## J3SHF

There's two roads here for me, if your going to compete in concours then it's every nut and bolt, if your not then it's tidying things up so it's still useable as a daily driver but cleans up nicely when you blow the dirt off it.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

This piece of shiny shiny arrived today, bought the one to check i like it, and i do so i'll order another  just thinking of a way to put a small custom logo on them....


----------



## tommatt90

Nice bud!

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers mate, contemplated going single exit for cost purposes lol, but that would look like a 180, and we wouldnt want that nlw would we?


----------



## V6RUL

You mean something like this..

Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Yeah, the plan is no cat, no middle box, and a y split to 2 small boxes, then these 2 nice new shiny tips.

3 inch upto the y split then 2.5" for the 2 splits and boxes. 3 inch gives a cross sectional area of 7 sq inches, and the 2.5 give 5 sq inches each, so 10 sq inches total, so it will still flow nicely.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

V6RUL said:


> You mean something like this..
> 
> Steve


how loud was that steve on a scale of 0-10?0 being OEM, 10 being screaming blue murder.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Subframe and wishbones complete and reassembled



Bit more work on the headlights, I reckon I should be able to assemble them tomorrow.

was in 2 minds wether to do some angel eye inserts, and have decided to go with it. why not hey!





and de-tango the inserts!



couple of coats of lacquer so that I can polish them tomorrow and make them shiny

and a check that they still let light through...



more pics tomorrow, I want to get them back together, and then start with polishing the lenses


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Headlights have taken a back seat- cant decide on the angel eyes, and wether to just have them on the main or add the fog/full aswell?

Anyway, for now the front end is all poly-bushed barre the strut top mounts, which i may do in the future.

cookbots Front wishbone bushes
Powerflex purple rear wishbone bushes
eibach anti roll bar bushes ( came with the adjustable arb)
Powerflex Yellow dog bone bush



Ready for re-assembly.

Question. I plan on mounting the relentless downpipe to the turbo with the engine out. Am i going to be able to get the engine back in like this if i have remounted the subframe? Or am i best to leave the subframe off until the engine is in?

My thinking is-people who had fitment issues with the DP were pissed off with dropping the subframe to get the the downpipe back off to make the mods. If i mount it up and drop the engine in with the frame in place i will just have to pull the engine back out if there is an issue.... thoughts?


----------



## V6RUL

Can you put your DP on a V-band for ease..
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I suppose that could be an option, if there is a suitable section that would give the neccesary adjustment if rotated.... worth looking into thanks Steve


----------



## tommatt90

Looks good, is that the 26mil arb? If so you won't be disappointed!

Also please tell me you are going to give those arb brackets a quick paint lol.. Be a shame to do all the rest then leave them

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Yeah dont worry, i just wanted to see it all together. Its the 26mm one yes, So it will be good but only when its got a bigger rear to help it out!

What is peoples suggestions for the rear?


----------



## tommatt90

Haha yeah I looked and thought surely not..

I've got the 24mil one out that kit on the rear, made such a difference

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

24mm rear- thats huge! I suppose if its adjustable then it gives a good basis for fine tuning the setup. Am i right that the hole at the end is the softer as it allows the most flex?


----------



## tommatt90

Yeah that's right, mine as on the stiffest setting

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ill go soft while the rear is so pathetically thin.


----------



## tommatt90

Yeah when I removed the rear I was shocked at how thing it was haha

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----------



## Von Twinzig

J3SHF said:


> Great job done, I was the same with mine, doesn't actually take that long either. Hammerite is great stuff for a bit of a light restoration.


Next time use Rust-Oleum, way, way better. Leave Hammerite for railings. Actually I'd use Rust Oleum on those too :lol:


----------



## Von Twinzig

fixitagaintomoz said:


> how loud was that steve on a scale of 0-10?0 being OEM, 10 being screaming blue murder.


3" DP, decat and rear box only on mine is 96dB @ 4800rpm. Whisper quiet.










VT


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Von Twinzig said:


> J3SHF said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great job done, I was the same with mine, doesn't actually take that long either. Hammerite is great stuff for a bit of a light restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time use Rust-Oleum, way, way better. Leave Hammerite for railings. Actually I'd use Rust Oleum on those too :lol:
Click to expand...

i will look into that next time, but the hammerite should last a while.


Von Twinzig said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> how loud was that steve on a scale of 0-10?0 being OEM, 10 being screaming blue murder.
> 
> 
> 
> 3" DP, decat and rear box only on mine is 96dB @ 4800rpm. Whisper quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

Ive got similar at present with literally just a miltek res backbox and its quiet, im getting my brother to fab one and just didnt want to be too loud with the new style. Is yours 2.5" cat back?


----------



## Von Twinzig

Fixit....3" DP to 2.75"on the Miltek non resonated box. There no cat. I was advised not to go 3" all the way through otherwise the torque drops off a cliff apparently.

I don't mind the lack of noise as this way I can get into places like Bedford that have a lower limit.......and I have the aircooled 911, which is probably one of the best sounding setups on the planet :lol:

I might get my mate to make me a straight through pipe and get that measured, as long as it was under 105dB it will work for all the regular tracks. Also thought about a small inline box then a Y piece to keep the twin outs, I think twin boxes on the Y will be super quiet. Is there someway to make a valve? That would be quite cool.

BTW loving your engine build 8)


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

When you see the size of the 2 boxes you will realise that they wont really do much... 4" round and 9" long.... i think i'll give that a go and see how it sounds. Im going to do a bit more digging on what size pipe to use before i build it aswell, dont want to lose torque but dont want to restrict flow for spool.

Thanks regarding the engine build, ill just be glad when the actual rebuilding happens, its all been taking apart so far!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Is there any perf or wadding in the boxes?

Engine wise, do you think there's any mileage in buying one off eBay and just working slowly through it then swap it over and sell the original? Was sort of in my mind as a plan.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

It depends what you would want to do to the engine, if you wanted to do a full rebuild like what i'm doing then a whole engine in non working order, i.e. head gasket failure or cambelt snapped would be pretty cheap, then the internals can cost as much or as little as you want to spend, but once youve got it all it wouldnt actually take that long to build, and the swap could be done over a relaxed weekend

What are your plans then?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Oh and heres the boxes i was thinking of using

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 61&alt=web


----------



## Von Twinzig

I want to get north of 300bhp/tonne so it largely depends on what I can get the weight down to. I'm thinking I'll need a reliable 400bhp with torque to match as it's never going to be a feather.

VT


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Yeah definately build it off the car, gt28 in some guise will get you there.... have you seen matt b's stroker build?


----------



## Von Twinzig

Yep. Nice. I'd like to run a twin scroll if I could get one to work. Thought I read somewhere that Jabba have a Scoobie conversion kit or I might have made it up in my head :lol: My mates racing Scoobie runs one and there's virtually zero lag.

VT


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

To be fair the 2.0tfsi conversion may be a good option for you, lots of impressive figures in the 8j section, and looks like the conversion isnt too complicated for a competant garage


----------



## Von Twinzig

Funny you should say that, went out in my mates son's S3 running the same unit last week, that's making around 400 on standard internals and original turbo. It felt pretty nippy and I'm thinking should be reliable.

VT


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

If my calculations and speculations are correct, then my new parts should be in a box somewhere on their way to be ripped open by our customs, a massive charge put on top, then to be ripped open again next week by the rightful owner(s).

Only 7 weeks from ordering.... mind you they did have to make every part to order for 3 stroker conversions.....

Shiny update soon i hope!!!


----------



## pete_slim

fixitagaintomoz said:


> If my calculations and speculations are correct, then my new parts should be in a box somewhere on their way to be ripped open by our customs, a massive charge put on top, then to be ripped open again next week by the rightful owner(s).
> 
> Only 7 weeks from ordering.... mind you they did have to make every part to order for 3 stroker conversions.....
> 
> Shiny update soon i hope!!!


Space has already been reserved in my garage for my share of the new shiny parts. :roll:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

pete_slim said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> If my calculations and speculations are correct, then my new parts should be in a box somewhere on their way to be ripped open by our customs, a massive charge put on top, then to be ripped open again next week by the rightful owner(s).
> 
> Only 7 weeks from ordering.... mind you they did have to make every part to order for 3 stroker conversions.....
> 
> Shiny update soon i hope!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Space has already been reserved in my garage for my share of the new shiny parts. :roll:
Click to expand...

theres no room left in my garage :/ i will just have to get it built asap i suppose!


----------



## tommatt90

Looking forward to seeing the pics  wonder how much import will be...

I'm order some bits today, but my bro will be sending them lol

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----------



## fixitagaintomoz

PARTS ARE IN THE UK!!!!!!!


----------



## tommatt90

That boot mat you redid looks ace, where was the material from? Was it difficult? The silver bits around the handle do they just come out? Cheers!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Firstly HUGE apologies to anyone who has got this far and then sees this update.

I have just been given my 4 week notice from work. Now add that to my girlfriend being between jobs and i would be silly to plough money into a car instead of a roof over my head.

I will be rebuilding the TT back to how it was pre explosion. Gutting considering the rebuild parts are now sat waiting for me to collect on Monday!

I will be selling all the stroker kit, and all the other little bits and bobs i bought to make her flow better and look pretty.

I am really gutted, but with the job market the way it is i have got to be sensible. I will probably be putting bigger injectors in and twaeking the map, but other than that it will be the same as before, which to be fair wasnt a bad car!

This post should still have some good updates of a standard rebuild..... and if a set of standard 2.0 tfsi pistons and rods become available for dirt cheap tomorrow i may still be tempted to do the conversion.... but dont hold your breath 

Sorry again to disappoint you guys!

PS any one got any jobs going in the midlands area?!?!


----------



## OeTT

Sorry to hear your bad news. Good luck with the job hunt. Post up what you did/ can or want to do. You never know who might read the thread
Keep smiling


----------



## jamman

OeTT said:


> Sorry to hear your bad news. Good luck with the job hunt. Post up what you did/ can or want to do. You never know who might read the thread
> Keep smiling


+1 Good to see you have a sensible head on your shoulders


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

OeTT said:


> Sorry to hear your bad news. Good luck with the job hunt. Post up what you did/ can or want to do. You never know who might read the thread
> Keep smiling


Very good point. I am currently a sales rep for a vehicle safety system company. Primary customer base is local authorities transport managers and service managers. Its quite a niche market, and i know of most companies in my sector, but obviously have a lot of transferable skills.

Also willing to try my hand at anything, hands on or customer based.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

jamman said:


> OeTT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear your bad news. Good luck with the job hunt. Post up what you did/ can or want to do. You never know who might read the thread
> Keep smiling
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Good to see you have a sensible head on your shoulders
Click to expand...

Thanks jamman, i hate to be "that guy" that doesnt finish a project, but rather be that guy than a homeless guy lol


----------



## tommatt90

Sorry to hear the news mate, even tho we've already spoke


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

tommatt90 said:


> Sorry to hear the news mate, even tho we've already spoke


Cheers mate


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

FYI guys, major deals below 

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=789121


----------



## tommatt90

Great deals on there, people don't take the piss lol! Wish I hadn't bought my 2.0 coils and spacer bar already


----------



## TheVarix

Sorry about the bad news. I am sure you'll find something soon. Good luck!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

TheVarix said:


> Sorry about the bad news. I am sure you'll find something soon. Good luck!


Cheers mate- i hope so!


----------



## Duggy

So sorry to hear this mate, I've been following this thread since the start 

Good to see your sensible head is on, just think, give it a few months and it may be a go again :wink:

John


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Duggy said:


> So sorry to hear this mate, I've been following this thread since the start
> 
> Good to see your sensible head is on, just think, give it a few months and it may be a go again :wink:
> 
> John


Thanks mate, the frustrating thing will be that when funds are available again i will have wasted a fair amount of money selling parts for less than i paid, and paying the miscelanious rebuild costs twice!

I think if i end up taking it apart again it will be to go full on BT Stroker!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Just read this Fixit, sorry to read your news. I'm sure the thing will be built as you want it one day, this is just a speed bump along the way.

Good luck mate.

VT


----------



## L33JSA

Sorry to see this mate......

BUT....

I've got a set of standard TFSI rods & pistons.... :roll:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Sorry to see this mate......
> 
> BUT....
> 
> I've got a set of standard TFSI rods & pistons.... :roll:


Pm me a price, if its within budget i'll have them....


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Von Twinzig said:


> Just read this Fixit, sorry to read your news. I'm sure the thing will be built as you want it one day, this is just a speed bump along the way.
> 
> Good luck mate.
> 
> VT


Cheers VT


----------



## anthony_839

not cool man,

what you doing with rest of car as isn't the engine out and all in bits?

u stripping selling parts and scraping shell or trying to put back to std?


----------



## NoMark

anthony_839 said:


> not cool man,
> 
> what you doing with rest of car as isn't the engine out and all in bits?
> 
> u stripping selling parts and scraping shell or trying to put back to std?





fixitagaintomoz said:


> I will be rebuilding the TT back to how it was pre explosion.


----------



## Wak

Sorry to hear this, you have a PM that may be useful. :? 
I wish you the best in a search for a new role.


----------



## anthony_839

NoMark said:


> anthony_839 said:
> 
> 
> 
> not cool man,
> 
> what you doing with rest of car as isn't the engine out and all in bits?
> 
> u stripping selling parts and scraping shell or trying to put back to std?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will be rebuilding the TT back to how it was pre explosion.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

my bad didn't see that


----------



## 3TT3

Gl either way.. back standard or not!


----------



## Mr_Smith

My mate is a top recruiter in Birmingham so I sent you his details. PM me back if you want his number etc.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks guys for all the support from the forum, it's a really pleasant boost at a crap time


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Heres what you could have won.....

IE 83mm stroker pistons, 9.5:1 compression ratio, fully coated





IE Tuscan connecting rods144x20 mm forged drilled and ARP bolts



ACL race bearings with calico coating





ARP head bolts



oh and IE oil pump gear





ahh well, never mind. Got a buyer lined up, so they wont be with me for long 

Big props to Callum (no longer a member on here) for sorting the mini group buy, shame i wont be using the parts


----------



## Paulj100

What happened to Callum? Was a nice guy with a lot of knowledge of TT engines :?

Paul


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Got banned- politics behind the forum scenes seem to have been part of it..... shame as he is a good bloke


----------



## Paulj100

Real shame matey. Helped me out and many others on here.

Paul.


----------



## GEM

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Got banned- politics behind the forum scenes seem to have been part of it..... shame as he is a good bloke


Thought so. Got a good idea of what brought it all to a head. Hope he wasn't *tarred with someone else's brush* 

I do hope all goes well for you in the future.


----------



## pete_slim

Loving the shiney engine component porn mate.. gutted you aren't gonna be able to make it happen. Hope you find something quick so that you can get this build back on the radar again.

Cant wait to pick up my share of the goodies from Callum next time im back..


----------



## Grahamstt

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Heres what you could have won.....
> 
> IE 83mm stroker pistons, 9.5:1 compression ratio, fully coated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IE Tuscan connecting rods144x20 mm forged drilled and ARP bolts
> 
> 
> 
> ACL race bearings with calico coating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ARP head bolts
> 
> 
> 
> oh and IE oil pump gear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ahh well, never mind. Got a buyer lined up, so they wont be with me for long
> 
> Big props to Callum (no longer a member on here) for sorting the mini group buy, shame i wont be using the parts


Didn't see this lot for sale  

Would have bought the lot, waiting for my delivery from IE now


----------



## tommatt90

Plus I've purchased them lol


----------



## Grahamstt

Well done, I'm sure you'll make good use of them. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

pete_slim said:


> Loving the shiney engine component porn mate.. gutted you aren't gonna be able to make it happen. Hope you find something quick so that you can get this build back on the radar again.
> 
> Cant wait to pick up my share of the goodies from Callum next time im back..


Youll love them once you have them... im gutted that mine arent staying.

Ahh well if i do another build it will be huge.....


----------



## Lollypop86

Sad times.....only just seen this 

I still want the seats tho  why cant you just keep everything till your sorted and just get a push bike? lol

J
xx


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Haha pushbike...... i wish!

Seats should still be ok- afterall standard seats are easier to sell than orange porsche seats!


----------



## Lollypop86

you better get those pics over to me now then lol only been waiting how long!?

J
xx


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

** face palm**


----------



## Lollypop86

I know right! lol

J
xx


----------



## Larken93

I was following this post for some time now even before I signed up shame to hear what's happened you clearly have good knowledge hope to see something else from yourself soon, regards


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Larken93 said:


> I was following this post for some time now even before I signed up shame to hear what's happened you clearly have good knowledge hope to see something else from yourself soon, regards


Thanks mate, my knowledge only really comes from what i research on here and getting stuck in.

When funds allow i want to so another build, especially having come so close this time round, and now i have a clearer idea of what i can get value for money wise, and how many ponies i will be aiming for


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

That's the pistons sourced... thanks Callum!

Just need some new rings and bearings and i'm set.

Still a few little odds and sods to source, but that's the bulk of the parts sorted!

Engine is being dropped in to get honed and cleaned tomorrow so expect updates soon as the rebuild commences!


----------



## tommatt90

Good stuff mate!! Glad to hear


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Block has been in today and is back in my care. Got the cylinders honed, block alkaline steam cleaned, and snapped gearbox bolt removed.







Ready for a rebuild me thinks


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nice! 8)


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ordered piston rings and full set of bearings, so i will start the build next week. Bench is ready to go


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Managed to get 17.5% discount at my local audi, so have purchased all the bolts seals o rings etc that i will need, all except the head gasket and the cambelt kit. Still came to over £100!

From memory thats for:

Crank bolt
Main end cap bolts
big end nuts
Gearbox bolt (previously snapped)
3 speed sensor wheel bolts
Turbo Exhaust studs
Manifold turbo bolts
both turbo gaskets and oil return seal
Water line washers
Inlet gasket
Exhaust gasket
Power steering union washers
Oil filter housing gasket

think theres some bits ive missed aswell....

managed to refit the subframe last night, thats an akward job with 1 pair of hands- ended up using a trolley jack to offer it up. Couldnt then get the rack mounts onto the subframe- turns out the 26mm anti roll bar only just fits but has to be removed to fit the rack back in place then re-fitted. There is about 1.5mm clearance between the 2!!!

All back up and in place now, so it really is just a case of engine rebuild and re-fit once all the parts arrive!

And by my reckoning i should be able to crack on with the build this weekend


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

More shiny shiny arrived today


----------



## Grahamstt

Making me jealous
All my parts are delayed due to bearings being on back order 

Graham


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

What bearings did you go for? One supplier wanted 105 for just the standard big end bearings!


----------



## Grahamstt

Mahle/Vandervell Race bearings.
Ordered Mahle pistons so thought to stick with same make but didnt bargain for delay


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

That sucks for ya mate. Mines been off the road for over 3 monrhs now, so i dont think i could handle any more delay!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Right then mechanical wizz kids, need a little advice of you would be so kind?

Sump and oil seal plates at each end require liquid gasket- what's best?

Also the crankcase gasket requires a small amount- again what's best?

Running in Oil, what grade and type? I remember reading somewhere that you use a different oil for the first 25 mile run in?

I will be ready to start the rebuild by the weekend providing all parts get delivered, which they should do by Friday at the latest ( and that's just the piston ring tools that might be that late) so i can pick up oil from any motor factors by then, but I know the liquid gasket might not necessarily be an off the shelf item.


----------



## sco

Threebond 1104 for the sealant.

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Picked up an order from audi yesterday, so here's just some of the rebuild components.



Literally just a cambelt kit and water pump left to purchase but I can get the majority of the engine built up now! Be prepared for lots of pictures!


----------



## nate42

Lookin good! A lot of familiar looking stuff


----------



## V6RUL

I used Millers running in oil for my build.
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/commercial ... ctor=Fleet
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Had a few hours tonight to get cracking.

First port of call was to get the pistons swapped over.

This is a little fiddly so below there's a few pics. To get the wrist pin out there is a surclip in the end. Using a drill bit for leverage use a small screwdriver to line up the end of the clip with the hole. Then use the screwdriver to pry that end out, then apply a bit more pressure to get it out. Keep your thumb over it as you do so it doesn't ping off never to be found again.









then use a soft but heavy tool to get the wrist pin out. Then put the new piston on or new rod, but if keeping the wrist pin and the piston keep the pin the correct way round as they can wear slightly over time.

freshly cleaned pistons


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Then I started reassembling the bottom end.

Cleaned the bearing housings and placed the bearings in the block dry.





then I gave each bearing a thin coating of assembly paste



And the same process for the bearing caps



All caps in place and torqued to 65nm + 1/4 turn with new bolts



Oil pump drive chain and tensioner in place and the end cap sealed and bolted in place





Still need to torque up the crank bolt, but that's a job for tomorrow with a special tool at Retro Power Nuneaton

Feels good to be making progress! Tomorrow I want to have the rods and pistons in but that is reliant on my piston ring tool turning up! Then get the oil pump and sump back on.

Also want to finish the head assembly, and get that bolted up. Then it's just getting the ancillaries bolted on, and then the cambelt kit. I think that's a good target for the day, and then if am doing well I should have it all ready to go back in by the end of the weekend, then use next weekend to get it back in


----------



## V6RUL

Fast progress bud.
Nice to have space and the right tools.
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

I could do with a lot more space to be honest!

I really can't see why it cant be assembled this weekend, that would be a nice level of progress


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Plenty of pics from today's action. Bottom End is built, and most of the ancillaries are bolted on.


Piston rings on, with the gaps at 120 degrees from each other







New big end bearings and nuts



Old bearing weren't too bad



New ones in and a thin smear of graphogen



Piston ring compressor. Lined with oil so that the piston can slide out easily.



2 piston and rods in place



And the next 2



Oil pump mounted



And the sump









Oil filter housing mounted


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

My broken phone screen is making writing these posts very akward!

Anyway

thermostat and housing





Ancillary bracket



Alternator and air con compressor





And that's me done for the day, tomorrow I will fully reassemble the head and get it mounted up. Then next weekend will be craning it into the car time


----------



## Paulj100

Amazing write up and I applaud all your hard work and knowledge of rebuilding this engine. Wishing you all the best and hope it goes well when it comes to that first turn of the key. [smiley=dude.gif]

Paul


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Paulj100 said:


> Amazing write up and I applaud all your hard work and knowledge of rebuilding this engine. Wishing you all the best and hope it goes well when it comes to that first turn of the key. [smiley=dude.gif]
> 
> Paul


Thanks Paul, it's really just a big jigsaw to be honest!

More work today after I get back from the dreaded weekly shop


----------



## tommatt90

Looks ace, top work


----------



## zerocake

Awesome work dude


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

thanks guys, it's getting there

pissed off my ribe tool didn't turn up, cos the head is nearly built and I could have put it all together  Just jumped on here to check a few bits before I finish up for the night and commence with another monster pic upload


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

more progress;

various brackets and water pipe in place, with the Turbo Oil feed





Knock sensors cleaned and installed



and the speed sensor



starting to gain some space back on the parts shelf!



Head Reassembly- the hydraulic lifters have been soaking in oil for a week, and all now have the correct "flex" to them, barr cylinder 3 exhaust, which I have freed up and filled with oil, so hopefully once they are under proper oil pressure they will be ok, fingers crossed of course!





lifted up with card so that the valves don't hit the table as the cams are bolted down







Test fit of the relentless X-Pro V4 exhaust manifold, and realizing that fitment to the Turbo will be a PITA, and will need studs instead of the new bolts I bought without thinking about it...









and a test fit of the head on the block, just to make me feel like I have made progress. if the Ribe tool had arrived I would finished mounting the head, but that can wait next week.







holes blocked up to prevent any foreign objects entering the engine



So, that is mission complete for the weekend, except for bolting the head down, which I think is good progress for now.

I will collect the engine crane this week, and get the clutch and gearbox mounted, which may well lead to the engine being put in on Friday. so realistically, I should have a "first start up" video to show you guys this time next week


----------



## Von Twinzig

Top job fixit! [smiley=cheers.gif]

VT


----------



## L33JSA

Looking good mate.

Couple of things though...

1. Did you plastigauge the clearances on the crank for all bearings?
2. Did you gap the piston rings?
3. Did you check the end float on the crank


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Looking good mate.
> 
> Couple of things though...
> 
> 1. Did you plastigauge the clearances on the crank for all bearings?
> 2. Did you gap the piston rings?
> 3. Did you check the end float on the crank


got the machine shop to check the crank and they said with standard sized bearings it will be within tolerances. didn't ask what these were, but I trust them on that.

Endfloat wasn't checked but the thrust washers were new, and it was a reassuring squeeze to get them in- bit of tapping each way to get them to line up, so no excessive movement at all. if you feel it is essential I can drop the sump off again and test this?

Might need to anyway...... didn't test the ring gaps, just went on the theory that from what I've read and been told by a couple of people that rings are usually gapped pretty good to standard sizing, and i'm not running big boost so don't need to open them up, and that the bores were fully smooth when I took it to the machine shop, and they gave it a good honing which will have increased the cylinder size, so they should be fine.........

so open it back up and test, or trust my gut?


----------



## nate42

I used same brand of piston rings and measured them. All were within spec out from the box, so no filing was needed. Then again better safe than sorry...


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

nate42 said:


> I used same brand of piston rings and measured them. All were within spec out from the box, so no filing was needed. Then again better safe than sorry...


that's good news, but you are right- better safe than sorry. looks like I will be stripping her back down tonight to check......

still, if that's the only mistake it's not the end of the world, and it is free to check now rather than running it and it going bang if the gap is too small and the ring expands and destroys itself....

glad I didn't mount the head or that would have been a waste of head bolts!!!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

The ribe bit arrived today, so time to mount the head and install the cambelt kit


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

mounted the head tonight, test fitted the exhaust manifold and turbo, fitted the exhaust manifold :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: , and nearly installed the cambelt..... when I say nearly its because I don't want to "pull the pin" until I have the flywheel, clutch and gearbox on to be able to make sure the timing marks all line up properly.

any way, piccies!!!

I apologise that this was the first picture I took this evening, I was too pre-occupied with getting the head bolts torqued up correctly and in sequence that I forgot until the rocker cover was on. but there are plenty of pics on here of rocker cover gaskets, so hit search if you REALLY want to see that!



starting to look more and more like a real engine!



Starting on the cambelt.

Now the guide I refered to was this one

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1- ... s-1961739/

which is amazingly comprehensive. so for people doing a search, heres the key words so this flags up- Cambelt replacement guide. timing belt replacement guide.

obviously with me not having an old belt all marked up, I had to just count 68 teeth and make sure they lined up in the appropriate places.

top marker indicates tooth 1



little dot represents tooth 68 and lines up with the timing mark on the crank sprocket, ignore the marker on the bolt, that's so I can check during run in that the bolt hasn't come lose.



cable ties holding it all in rough positions for now, new shiny water pump in place, just missing the hydraulic damper, as that's the final piece and isn't going on until I confirm it is all correct.



test fit of the relentless x-pro v4 exhaust manifold, with the turbo and charge pipe in place- its all quite tight!





Oh and the badger 5 tip





Now for a word of warning/advice for anyone considering this manifold.

I can't see this being possible to fit with the head on the block in the car. these next 2 pictures indicate 2 nuts that have to be tightened first and equally, pulling the manifold away from the head as much as possible to allow the spanner onto the nut, even then you can only do 60 degree turns maximum!





much cursing and spanner fiddling later it looks like this



but really, I had full access to it and struggled- and that's with the turbo off. fit it on the car? not if you paid me £1000!!!

So the next stage is to pick up the engine crane from my friend tomorrow evening, and get the clutch assembly and gearbox mounted up, finish off the cambelt end, and mount the turbo and the lines.

SO, my current prediction is that I will have the engine in the car on Saturday (weather dependant) and then plumbed in and started up on the Sunday. then phone the insurance on Monday, and get my policy swapped from the £300 runabout Clio, back to my pride and joy, then go take her for a 30 mile run in, then drop the oil and find an excuse to do another 500 miles in the next week 

finally feels like i'm getting somewhere with her


----------



## V6RUL

Good work man..your missus must be very understanding.
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

V6RUL said:


> Good work man..your missus must be very understanding.
> Steve


She is fed up by this stage, but ive pointed out it can either drag out even longer, or I can just get it done in one hit and then it's out of the way.... I didn't realise I was in the garage until gone 11 pm though..... no good night kiss for me!


----------



## chazhs88

How much does all this cost?!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

chazhs88 said:


> How much does all this cost?!


Well....... just a standard rebuild from block up had cost me more than I expected in just little bits n bobs.

To name just a few obvious items;
Bearings £110
Piston rings £90
Cambelt kit £150 ish
Clutch kit £450 ish
Gaskets bolts etc £300-£400

So there's over £1000 before you've looked at upgrading any parts!

Plus any tools ive had to buy..... but it's all good fun and now my engine is effectively brand new.

Oh and good effort on boosting your post levels- Hoggy please give them access to pm and market place! :lol:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

What's wrong with these pictures?





no way that's going to work..... my plan is a high tensile allan bolt- which should work...right?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 61&alt=web

Just need to find somewhere to buy that bolt before saturday to keep on schedule.

so that just adds to the argument that it's easier to do this manifold with the engine off the car!!!


----------



## L33JSA

All coming together nicely.

Allen bolt will work - but you will need a lockable washer underneath it to help to stop it coming loose.

Oh & you don't need the flywheel on to check the timing, there is a mark on the front crank pulley (not sprocket) and it lines up with a mark on the lower cambelt cover.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> All coming together nicely.
> 
> Allen bolt will work - but you will need a lockable washer underneath it to help to stop it coming loose.
> 
> Oh & you don't need the flywheel on to check the timing, there is a mark on the front crank pulley (not sprocket) and it lines up with a mark on the lower cambelt cover.


Have you got a picture of thE markings? It would be easier to time it fully before putting the gearbox on as I need to use the cam side engine mount as a lifting point


----------



## L33JSA

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Have you got a picture of thE markings?


Not to hand no - just put the aux belt crank pulley against the lower cambelt cover and look for the groove in the back lip of the pulley and the indentation on the ribbed curve of the lower cambelt cover - the 2 should line up when timed correctly.


----------



## L33JSA

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/ ... timing.png


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ahh spot on mate thanks- that's the first time I've seen that mentioned after reading a few cambelt guides!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Managed to find the bolts locally today, so after we have visited the other half's poorly grandma, I will get the whole turbo and lines assembled tonight, and maybe get it up onto the engine crane (which means finishing the cambelt and engine mount)

Hopefully some more update pics tonight, then time for the big job tomorrow of clutch and gearbox assembly and fitting into the car!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Just a quick update tonight chaps

Timed her up  used an allen key to put the damper under tension, so that if it wasn't right I could still adjust it all. Did 2 full rotations of the engine, and nothing contacted and the timing marks still line up, so we're cooking on gas!











And finally the aux belt



wanted to mount the turbo, but the new bolts are 5mm too long and the neighbors wouldn't like the sound of an angle grinder at 10pm!

Remembered to mount the water return line



and then suspended the turbo with a cable tie until tomorrow morning 

So i am a little behind schedule, but still plan to have the engine and gearbox mounted tomorrow and hopefully some of the wiring and plumbing


----------



## samgilding

fixitagaintomoz said:


> the new bolts are 5mm too long and the neighbors wouldn't like the sound of an angle grinder at 10pm!


What's up with u , never heard of a hacksaw? :wink: :lol: 
Great work mate nearly done now! Bet you can't wait to get your beast back on the road. Also, congrats on the new job!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

samgilding said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> the new bolts are 5mm too long and the neighbors wouldn't like the sound of an angle grinder at 10pm!
> 
> 
> 
> What's up with u , never heard of a hacksaw? :wink: :lol:
> Great work mate nearly done now! Bet you can't wait to get your beast back on the road. Also, congrats on the new job!
Click to expand...

They are high tensile bolts, and my blade wasn't looking too sharp to be fair lol. Plus I need to schamfer the ends and fook filing them!

Yeah so close yet so far! At this stage though I'm making double and triple sure about each step so that it goes right first time, don't wants seals leaking or bolts coming lose!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Absolutely shattered.

Going out for a well earned meal and drink, but before I do I will just leave this picture here.....



[smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## L33JSA

Good work pal. Startup tomorrow then?

Did you refit the lower turbo to block support?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Good work pal. Startup tomorrow then?
> 
> Did you refit the lower turbo to block support?


Yeah, fitted it then had to undo the turbo bolt to allow the bracket to flex up to fit an extension in to tighten the transfer box bolt..... right fun and games!

Will upload more pics tomorrow, but tbh there is less than usual as it was all cursing and swearing today

Yeah, start up tomorrow, once I remember where all the wires go!

Just a bit confused- you have to run the engine upto temp to bleed the bleed the coolant, but you don't want to idle it on new piston rings for too long as that will just glaze the bores without bedding the rings in...... what's the best solution? Let it run low on coolant for a few miles while you start to put the engine under load?


----------



## jamman

Good luck with it all mate


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

jamman said:


> Good luck with it all mate


Thanks mate- today Is the moment of truth! Making a start on it now


----------



## tommatt90

Good luck bud!!


----------



## L33JSA

Running it at fast idle (3000rpm) for the first 20 mins or so is more for if you've fitted brand new cams as you should bed them in this way. That said it's no bad thing as it speeds up the bleeding process and warmup time for the new engine.

So I always do this..

Run the car up at between 2000rpm-3000rpm (length of wood or rod inbetween the seat & accelerator pedal will help with this)for approximately 20mins or until the fans kick in and out making sure the coolant level doesnt drop and all the hoses are hot especially the heater matrix ones. Check all the time for leaks.

Oil & filter change now (Still running in oil) - check the oil for any signs of debris or large chunks of metal - there will be to some extent some very small fine pieces of metal - this is normal.

Then take the car out for a 30 minute run, varying loads upto around 3000rpm. No or very low boost (disconnect the n75). If you've got any hills around you use them as they are good for creating load at low engine speeds. Don't be afraid to accelerate hard upto 3000rpm and let off down to idle allowing it to build vacuum. Try not to let it run at constant revs for long periods of time if you can help it.

As before - oil & filter change (still running in oil) and check oil.

Next run the engine for 500 miles, exactly the same as before if at all possible - upto around 5500rpm. Don't baby it though and as before feel free to accelerate upto that level as hard as you like, in all gears - the higher the better so you're putting it under load. Obviously this will obviously take a few days to achieve.

After this change the oil & filter again (normal fully synthetic) and check. Do compression test. At this point you'll probably want to go back and get it mapped & checked again before plugging the N75 back in again and running full boost & full rev limit.

Obviously everyone will have different ways of running an engine in but this has always worked for me. Main thing is NOT to baby it and don't be afraid of being aggressive with it to a certain extent.


----------



## sco

Best of luck with the fire-up Fixit!

Simon.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> Running it at fast idle (3000rpm) for the first 20 mins or so is more for if you've fitted brand new cams as you should bed them in this way. That said it's no bad thing as it speeds up the bleeding process and warmup time for the new engine.
> 
> So I always do this..
> 
> Run the car up at between 2000rpm-3000rpm (length of wood or rod inbetween the seat & accelerator pedal will help with this)for approximately 20mins or until the fans kick in and out making sure the coolant level doesnt drop and all the hoses are hot especially the heater matrix ones. Check all the time for leaks.
> 
> Oil & filter change now (Still running in oil) - check the oil for any signs of debris or large chunks of metal - there will be to some extent some very small fine pieces of metal - this is normal.
> 
> Then take the car out for a 30 minute run, varying loads upto around 3000rpm. No or very low boost (disconnect the n75). If you've got any hills around you use them as they are good for creating load at low engine speeds. Don't be afraid to accelerate hard upto 3000rpm and let off down to idle allowing it to build vacuum. Try not to let it run at constant revs for long periods of time if you can help it.
> 
> As before - oil & filter change (still running in oil) and check oil.
> 
> Next run the engine for 500 miles, exactly the same as before if at all possible - upto around 5500rpm. Don't baby it though and as before feel free to accelerate upto that level as hard as you like, in all gears - the higher the better so you're putting it under load. Obviously this will obviously take a few days to achieve.
> 
> After this change the oil & filter again (normal fully synthetic) and check. Do compression test. At this point you'll probably want to go back and get it mapped & checked again before plugging the N75 back in again and running full boost & full rev limit.
> 
> Obviously everyone will have different ways of running an engine in but this has always worked for me. Main thing is NOT to baby it and don't be afraid of being aggressive with it to a certain extent.


ok thanks for that advice, it will be going through stage 1- bleeding at fast idle- today, but then will be next week before anything else happens, due to time restraints with the new job.



sco said:


> Best of luck with the fire-up Fixit!
> Simon.





tommatt90 said:


> Good luck bud!!


cheers guys!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Grrrrrr

just realised I need new clothes for tomorrow.... so downed tools temporarily to pop to the shops.....

but from this point on its all things I've done a few times before so lack of light won't be as big an issue


----------



## ades tt 180

Have you got it running yet?...hope it all goes smoothly for ya!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

ok, so it pissed it down raining earlier, so that delayed things as I have no shelter.

the front suspension, drive shafts and exhaust are all still disconnected, as well as the obvious missing front end, and I haven't been stopping to take pictures....

BUT this might have to do instead...

[smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=end.gif]

http://youtu.be/qys71TpAu5A?list=UUdzjT ... 7z3oF-jN3g


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## samgilding

Congratulations pal


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## Paulj100

Fantastic job! Well happy for you matey 8)

Paul


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## ades tt 180

She lives!...take my hat off to ya mate...we'll done!


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## merlin c

Well done!!!!! Fantastic [smiley=dude.gif]


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## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks guys!
It was great getting to turn the key, and hearing that it is running how it should - even if only for a few seconds.

It's annoying on the other hand knowing I now have less time to work on her to get her complete.

3 parts I will need before going much further though

Front charge pipe bracket lower section- can't find it for love nor money!

PAS sensor that bolts into the banjo bolt, pretty sure I stripped the thread on that :/

the clips on the hydraulic feed to the clutch, both partially snapped and i don't want that popping off under pressure!

Other than that she is good to go I think


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## Lollypop86

woohoo well done!

*ahem* seats!

J
xx


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## Skid Mark

Top work fella well done [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Mr_Smith

Congratulations mate, you should be proud! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## mullum

Thumbs up


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## Spliffy

Fantastic [smiley=dude.gif]


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## fixitagaintomoz

Thanks guys!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Lollypop86 said:


> woohoo well done!
> 
> *ahem* seats!
> 
> J
> xx


Once I get them out ill take pics for ya jess


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## FatManMotorsport

Really good read fella.

well done


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## fixitagaintomoz

just a little teaser....

yes I have spent a lot of time and effort rebuilding this engine, and it has been fun, but will I be happy at the same power as I had before for all that effort...... probably not!

yes I miss driving the TT but the current company car situation is great, and I can wait a bit longer if I'm honest....

so I think the engine may be coming back out again, but don't tell the mrs


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## Lollypop86

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Lollypop86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> woohoo well done!
> 
> *ahem* seats!
> 
> J
> xx
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get them out ill take pics for ya jess
Click to expand...

ok ok I'll try and be patient.....

......done it yet? 

lol

Are you having a frankenstein moment with resurecting your car?

J
xx


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## fixitagaintomoz

Lollypop86 said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lollypop86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> woohoo well done!
> 
> *ahem* seats!
> 
> J
> xx
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get them out ill take pics for ya jess
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ok ok I'll try and be patient.....
> 
> ......done it yet?
> 
> lol
> 
> Are you having a frankenstein moment with resurecting your car?
> 
> J
> xx
Click to expand...

seats are still in lol, sorry! I will try and get pics later


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## greyhound

fantastic thread-


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## Duggy

So glad to hear the light is definitely still on at the end of the tunnel mate 

Always a good milestone when you start it ;-)

John


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## Lollypop86

fixitagaintomoz said:


> seats are still in lol, sorry! I will try and get pics later


ok ok I'll wait....

have you done it yet? lol

Let me know when this gets annoying......I'm in one of those moods lol

J
xx


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## Fozzy84

I like the 8 ball


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## fixitagaintomoz

Fozzy84 said:


> I like the 8 ball


My fave mod I think lol, it's been with me since my old A4!


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## fleckers

excellent motor


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## Chrisrj

congrats, really like that


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## fixitagaintomoz

Ok.

Here's an interesting update for you all.

I showed you all the first start up. The next day I started my new job and have been flat out with it since, so the car stayed how it was on the drive- the joy of company cars hey 

Now that the weather is better I thought I would finish it all off. Started again fine which was a relief, but very shortly after it squeaked to a halt. Not a happy bunny at all! Wouldn't turn by hand at all, so engine has been hauled back out.



Now I was stumped if I'm honest. It had ground to a halt and stopped bottom dead centre.

After loosening the main cap bolts and it still not turning that ruled out any issues there, so I moved on to the rods.

1 and 2 came out as you would expect with a gentle tap with a wooden hammer handle.

3 did but the bearings stayed in place. Odd. Very odd.

Look at this mess!









So a bit of metal ended up in the bearing by the look of it- so new crank and bearings as a bare minimum. But while its out I'm looking for some forged rods to drop in, ready for the future......

I have picked up a bottom end in good nick so I have a crank to pilfer, so there's not much stopping the build except for time restraints!

I will keep you updated as and when I have news guys 

Oh and I'll just leave this here.....


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## NickG

Great to see your cracking on again mate! 

I know that feeling, when it's not urgent as you have another car, it gets put to one side. Keep us posted!


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## Duggy

So sorry to hear this mate :?

I did wonder why you'd put an ad up for forged rods...

Hope you find some and sort it quickly

John


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## temporarychicken

Good luck with the engine - bummer about the stray piece of metal scoring the crank and journal. Odd that it seized the engine entirely though. Normally it would just go round and round and maybe cause a knock.

Loving the Porsche seat!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Well I'm quite happy that I've ordered some rods. Can't afford drilled rods, and a few companies that deal with motorsports have said that it isn't essential. And the set I have bought look to combat the problem of supplying oil to the wrist pin slightly differently- they have a small groove to hold oil in.

http://www.maxspeedingrods.co.uk/h-beam ... x4pcs.html

Not a bad price so I'll see how they are when they turn up.

Also just picked up some v6 brakes- 334mm


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## Duggy

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Also just picked up some v6 brakes- 334mm


And left a sarcastic comment for me after you got them... :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'm more after brembo's, but they were an absolute bargain Bryn 

John


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## fixitagaintomoz

Duggy said:


> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also just picked up some v6 brakes- 334mm
> 
> 
> 
> And left a sarcastic comment for me after you got them... :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> I'm more after brembo's, but they were an absolute bargain Bryn
> 
> John
Click to expand...

I was as well, but like you say- at that price who can refuse? If I do end up upgrading again then I won't lose much money if any on them.


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## fixitagaintomoz

More good news!

Firstly a picture comparison between 312 and 334mm discs





My old discs are badly lipped and corroded, and the pads were down to 20%, so would have needed a good sum of money- nearly as much as these nearly new discs pads and callipers 

But the best news......

Was having a lie in on my half day off, and what woke me from my slumber.....













I am just waiting on a new set of bearings now, then the bottom end can be rebuilt. I'm properly excited now, as everything else I'm doing will be ready for a Hybrid if and when I can afford one, but for now it means when I get It mapped I can have it at maximum power without fearing destruction 

Speaking of hybrids- any going spare?


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## fixitagaintomoz

Old crank out and new crank in, waiting on new bearings head bolts and head gasket then it can all go back together....again!


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## Matt B

Should have got drilled.

You may get away with it ...... It you may end up rebuilding due to worn little end bearings  like me.

That's when you go stroker i suppose


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## fixitagaintomoz

I understand the theory behind the drilling, but I'm happy to chance it for now. I'm becoming very familiar with the takedown process now, so yeah if it does need re-doing again then it will be a stroker build for sure!


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## fixitagaintomoz

3" down pipe arrived today, so I'm now Itching to get it all back together! Literally just need to order my SMF and I'll be good to go. Will see what the weather is saying tomorrow, as well as the Mrs, and might get a chance to build the engine back up fully  although given the fact I was tinkering on Andy's TT all day today I don't think she would be impressed if I lock my self away In the man cave tomorrow....... But either way it's not far away now guys!


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## andy_k

thanks for the great help yesterday, will post up a couple of pics later.
Still got that signature rattle - new droplinks it is then!

But damn does the steering feel more lively, it's like the deadspot has been completely removed. - It's night and day difference.

I'll get that sensor fitted at some point, looks pretty miserable outside today.

Good Luck with the engine, i'll be keeping my eyes on your thread.

Cheers again!


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## rallye_turbo

Read this start to finish as I have the opportunity to rebuild or buy complete.
With turbo and manifold fitted, did it go back in easy? As you said, would never contemplate removing turbo with head/engine in with that manifold!
Did you manage to think about a FMIC - if so, which one?

Regards, Paul


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## fixitagaintomoz

The fmic is right at the start of the thread, I went universal and customised the pipe work. Goes in ok with it all in place, dP is awkward but not too bad.

No problem Andy, I'm glad it feels better now!


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## fixitagaintomoz

Amateur mistake- 2 rods got mixed up after removal, I think..... So I spent the time to remove the rings and test them and make sure the gappings are ok. So now they are all set up ready for full assembly to the new rods and get them installed


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## sco

Did you get to the bottom of what caused the damage to the bearing shells on the previous rebuild?

Simon.


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## fixitagaintomoz

sco said:


> Did you get to the bottom of what caused the damage to the bearing shells on the previous rebuild?
> 
> Simon.


It can only have been a stray bit of metal in the rod rifling. Very odd I must say, but needless to say it won't be happening again!


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## fixitagaintomoz

But more progress today  waiting on a new tensioner for the cambelt, so that delayed progress. Also need to get my SMF delivered before it can go back in the car.

A few pics 















Feels like I'm finally making progress


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## jamman

Fingers crossed for you


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## fixitagaintomoz

jamman said:


> Fingers crossed for you


Thanks.... Gonna be proper nervous on first start up this time!

Turns over nicely and freely like it should, so there's no reason it won't go well.....


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## Duggy

Best of luck Bryn, I can only imagine the nervousness on the first start up

John


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## Spaceman10

Good luck mate.
I sure it will be fine this time 

Phil


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## sco

Those rods look the business! Make sure you check all oilways and the bearing clearances this time ;-)

Simon.


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## Matt B

Whenever I have seen lee building an engine there are always copious quantities of assembly lube in the mix but can't see any strawberry sauce on yours mate. Have you used any??


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## fixitagaintomoz

Matt B said:


> Whenever I have seen lee building an engine there are always copious quantities of assembly lube in the mix but can't see any strawberry sauce on yours mate. Have you used any??


Yes matt I've used graphogen on the bearings to help protect on first start up, and the head is still lubed up from the removal.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Bit more progress last night. The only way I could test for the new 3" DP was to mount the engine.... So that's what I did 

But of jiggery-pokery and hey presto the engine is back on its mounts 



The exhaust is a right pig, but that's why I haven't bolted the engine down fully, because it makes it easier to remove the DP If the engine can come forward a touch.

Now when I first remounted the engine with this new relentless manifold, the stock exhaust was at the wrong angle going back down the car. This was taken into consideration this time round and the turbo was bolted on at a slightly different angle this time (there's movement available as the holes are a tad bigger than the bolts).

This time round I am confident that I have got the turbo angle spot on, as the exhaust is facing correctly down the car. I will try and tweak this as my first point of call, but I can't help but feel the exhaust will need to be removed and modified.





Need to wait til Thursday til I can be chopping and welding, so I will try tweaking the angle later today, and report back.

At this stage I just want to point out that I don't know if it is the exhausts fault or the manifolds fault, and have no real way of telling. I'm not complaining about the manifold or the downpipe as this is a custom build and these 2 components weren't sold by the same company as a solution. The joys of car modding!


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## fixitagaintomoz

My brother came round tonight with his MIG welder so the fun could commence. To be honest I got the adjustment virtually spot on first time, but took 2 adjustments before I was happy.

Here's where I cut the wedge out















Not a bad weld. Checked for leaks and it's all good 

So that gets me to this stage. So close yet so far away from hearing her purr.

In other news I have also made a start on the rear strut brace while I was waiting for progress on the exhaust.

The bolts I need will arrive tomorrow hopefully but this is it in a nutshell.





I hope that this Sunday will see me turning the key. And then maybe even getting it MOTd next week.... Now THERES an exciting thought!


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## andy_k

Awesome work!

Getting so close to back on the road now


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## fixitagaintomoz

Starting to look more like a car now 





Target day for start up is Sunday- not waiting for any parts now just time to put the last parts back in and check everything over.


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## fixitagaintomoz

Mission accomplished  you tube is being awkward so here's a link to the Facebook community with the video




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10153209077437597



Got a bit of a weird rattle coming from either the alternator or air on pump (or even the powersteering pump?) which if I take the alternator belt off it disappears, so gotta figure that one out, but the engine is running sweet, got it up to temperature which was nice 

Seem to have a bit of smoke, which might be from the manifold to turbo gasket which is a bit shite as its a bigger to sort out on these pro v manifolds, but at least she is running again!

Exhaust sounds nice too, it's 3" DP to 2.75 from the decat back, into a miltek resonated back box, doesn't sound boomy or too loud in the cabin, and has a nice burble.

Need to finish assembling the car now but the rain has started, then it needs an MOT before I start running the engine in


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## NickG

Woooo Hooo! 

Well done mate, bet you can't wait for the MOT and running in.


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## andy_k

Awesome work! Can't wait to see how this little car goes with all those goodies installed!


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## fixitagaintomoz

NickG said:


> Woooo Hooo!
> 
> Well done mate, bet you can't wait for the MOT and running in.


Can't wait! But know I'm gonna have to realistically, as there's a fair amount left to do 

Re-assemble headlights
Rebuild front end
Change callipers and discs front
Change discs and pads rear
Wire in electric Porsche seats
Change top mounts

Ok there's not that much left I suppose, it's just the time to do it!



andy_k said:


> Awesome work! Can't wait to see how this little car goes with all those goodies installed!


Yeah me too, can't wait for the mapping to optimise all the extras


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## 3TT3

Ack I'm blind..it was that welding pic! :lol: 
Fingers xed for it all.
How long are you going to run it in for?
Bit late now but 2 tips I used on the only engine rebuild I ever did (1900 and something  )

spray paint for gas flowing manifolds etc and matching up exactly to gaskets (cut gasket or hone manifold/pipe)

machine shop to cut circular depressions in the cylinder head,just behind where the metal ring of the ch gasket would sit.
Almost exact lengthwire cut to sit in these depressions,not too wide obviously.
But all to provide extra protection and against ch gasket blowing .


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## fixitagaintomoz

Today saw the interior one step closer to completion. I replaced the fuel level sender while it was stripped out, as access was a lot easier with no seats 



Pump removed



This is the new sender. The one the left is the later version, the one on the right the older version. Notice how the blocks point the opposite way on the circuit board? That's how you tell the difference, and why when you have one right and one wrong it generally site in the same place on your gauge as the readings balance out.



I also set about putting the wiring in for the electric seats. Ran them from the permanent live feed, and fused each side. The wire I was using is fairly thin so I doubled it up for safety.



Earth point



Wiring ran inside factory trunking





Obviously the wire with black tape on is the earth



Then made a connector on the seat side



Still need to re lean and re dye the seats before I bolt them in, but at least it is all ready to go now 

Oh and also finished this off, my new aluminium strut brace


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## Von Twinzig

Getting there matey. Looking good. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

VT


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## fixitagaintomoz

If it's not one thing it's another.

Here's the noise my powersteering pump is making. The noise disappears if I take the aux belt off and I can feel that it's deffo the pump, add the bubbling in the fluid and there's an issue somewhere. Over 20 left to right full locks and the noise is still there.

On the plus side the exhaust is sounding good- but how do I resolve this issue?!?!

Thinking of chopping all the powersteering lines out and using silicone hose and a cooler. Also replace all the banjo washers and that may sort it?


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## richardc-s

That rear strut bar looks real good! Also the welding on that exhaust looks spot on


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## fixitagaintomoz

It's been a long while since an update. To those of you still reading this after all the highs and lows, it's a happy ending thus far. Last week I got a fresh MOT with no issues what so ever, and a compliment on the car looking in good condition underneath 

I declared all the work and still managed to get insurance for £375 for the year- Brucy bonus or what?!

I have done a few bits and bobs, so time for some pics:

Using my cunning and bargain hunting I have sorted a rear net for the strut brace for under a tenner 

I removed the clips on the net and hooked them through the lashing points like this







Then secured it at the top, I may use a washer if it needs it but I'd prefer not to need to



End result







Then it was time to fit my v6 brake setup







There's a bit of difference but it's not night and day. What it will offer though is better cooling if I give it a bit of stick, plus the old discs were dead and this setup was a good price 

I tried to fit my mk2 2.0tfsi coil pack loom cover but it was a pain in the ass, so I made a heat shield







Which lead to this



I then fitted the fuel filler cap, in its new darker form





I've also sprayed a rear valance to match





Not fitted yet but here's a test fit



Next up was to deal with this problem..... My missing bracket. No dramas though.....



Bit of 2mm x 25mm steel, a hammer and a vice and hey presto!







After the changes to my setup the air filter was getting on my tits a bit, so for now- and partly for aesthetics, I've modded the air is to house the filter.







Now for those that don't know- all the blue paint in the engine bay will be turning rusty when I apply the activator..... Can't wait!

That's about it for now, need the tracking sorting, and I've done 100 out of 500 run in miles so a trip to Staines is on the cards pretty soon!

And the last pic......


----------



## andy_k

Looking good! I'm interested to see how the blue+rust aesthetic looks!


----------



## The Blue Bandit

... really love what you've done with this- one of the most individual and complete cars on here ...

[smiley=thumbsup.gif] 
Steve


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

The Blue Bandit said:


> ... really love what you've done with this- one of the most individual and complete cars on here ...
> 
> [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> Steve


No no no no sir...... You take that title by a country mile! I can but look at your car a dream of having such a nice example of a denim blue beauty!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Here's the finished look 











I know this won't be to everyone's tastes but ahh well!


----------



## sco

Fixit - noooo - what have you done?

Dont get that rusty look at all 

Simon.


----------



## anthony_839

loving the head shield

where you get the parts from ?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Just a sheet of aluminium heat shield of eBay and cut it to size. The rubber trim was from my old Work off the back of the van


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Man oh man it's been nearly a year! Ok so a lot has happened since then. The engine has been back out and has had a hybrid and an uprated clutch smashed on. I will try and dig out some pictures of a few of the new additions, like the machine work on the turbo and manifold, and running gasketless hotside. I will also try and get some pictures of the next steps;brembo conversion, ls2 coil conversion, custom inlet manifold using seat abf and vw agu inlets and mating them together, wideband conversion and a few other bits and bobs. I've really not been in a rush to finish her with me having fully funded company car there has been no need. but now that I have turned the key and heard her roar I do want to get her finished (again)


----------

