# Oil leak under PCV valve?



## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

So I have a 2008 2.0TFSI, and since I bought it, I have noticed high oil consumption, like 1L over 1500 miles... I thought this might have been due to the indie dealership i got the car from using poor quality oil at service before I bought the car, but i looked into this regardless, and I've seen murmurings of the PCV valve causing high oil consumption.

Anyway, I thought I'd give the PCV a change as its not an expensive part, and relatively cheap and easy to replace. When I took the hoses off, I did notice a bit of dark engine oil in the pipes, and then when I took the PCV off, I noticed what looked like a leak under the PCV valve itself. There was also a fair bit of oil inside the old PCV valve.

I've attached some pictures of the old valve and the "leak". What do y'all reckon? Is this normal? Could this be where my oil is sneaking off to?

The next thing to do is to get an oil change done too but I'll get to that after lockdown!


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## P111AOL (May 30, 2019)

Hi,

To me looking at the pictures it looks like the areas you have the leak you also have bits of the gasket missing or perished ? i think a new gasket and maybe change the PCV as a precaution although it could be fine if you change the gasket...

hope that helps and good luck with it !


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

printingpaul1972 said:


> Hi,
> 
> To me looking at the pictures it looks like the areas you have the leak you also have bits of the gasket missing or perished ? i think a new gasket and maybe change the PCV as a precaution although it could be fine if you change the gasket...
> 
> hope that helps and good luck with it !


Hi, the gasket did not look perished when I took it out, but I did change the it anyway.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Looking at the pictures I would suggest that someone has attempted to use some instant gasket, which is probably causing the leak. I would scrub and clean the mating and then put a new gasket in.


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

C00P5TT5 said:


> Looking at the pictures I would suggest that someone has attempted to use some instant gasket, which is probably causing the leak. I would scrub and clean the mating and then put a new gasket in.


That is a very good suggestion, I probably should have cleaned up the mating before putting the new gasket in.. Maybe I'll open 'er up tomorrow and take a look see, give it a bit of a clean too.... and i could also verify if the oil in the hoses has burnt off i suppose.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

The gasket on the pcv is pretty durable and I have reused them in the past. So give the mating facia a good clean, I would suggest nothing more than a washing up scour with a small amount of washing up liquid, dry and refit.

It should be perfectly flat.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Zooming right in to the picture definitely showing some instant has been applied


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Cleaned the mating face and under the pcv mating as well as I could with some soapy water and a kitchen scourer/sponge. I guess this will make it much easier to spot a leak if it reoccurs!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

It looks like the leak is coming from the head cover gasket. Faulty PCV check valve will cause oil leak. Inspect the ignition coil for small oil residue.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/ ... 2-9159.pdf


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Wolvez said:


> It looks like the leak is coming from the head cover gasket. Faulty PCV check valve will cause oil leak. Inspect the ignition coil for small oil residue.
> 
> https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/ ... 2-9159.pdf


This technical service bulletin only mentions the BPY engine for the TT? I have a BWA engine. In any case, I will take a look at the ignition coils when I next get a chance.. thanks.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

NotTayyeb said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > It looks like the leak is coming from the head cover gasket. Faulty PCV check valve will cause oil leak. Inspect the ignition coil for small oil residue.
> ...


Because BPY is the US version of BWA. European version use TPI instead of TSB. Look at the part number on your old PCV 
06F 129 101 F


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Ok to revive the dead thread, an update.

There was some oil leaking through the valve cover gasket and onto 2 of the ignition coils. These weren't flooded with oil, but they had some oil marks. What was more worrying was the amount of oil around the top of the cylinder head around where the coil pack for cylinder 1 is. See below - but worth noting that no oil was pooling up down by the sparkplug, and the sparkplug wasn't really any more worn than the other 3.










I took it upon myself to change the valve cover gasket anyway, as you can probably tell from the above picture (and also did cam follower and sparkplugs while I was working on it anyway). Cleaned up the cylinder head as best as I could. I then took the car for an oil change after where I believe they used Quantum long life 5w30.

I have been monitoring my oil consumption since, and here are my dipstick oil levels at around 130 miles after the service, and at 280 miles. Where else could my oil be going? I have looked around the valve cover and under the ignition coils, and do not see any oil leaking past the gasket.


















So so far, I have changed the oil, replaced the PCV and replaced the valve cover gasket but I am still losing quite a bit of oil somewhere..... I'm guessing next step is compression test to check piston rings? Any and all help would be appreciated!


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

See: http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar.com/audi-engine-oil-consumption-correction/


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Early 08's use a bit of oil, mine does also at the same rate as you've stated, it's no problem as long as you check and top up regularly. You could replace rings but it'd be crazy money. Some ppl have had Audi pay or part pay the cost via dealership testing, but I think you need to have a sparkly SH. I'll just live with topping it up.

Various models and makes of cars/bikes use oil to some degree but again, no biggie if checked regularly.


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Could it cause issues if I am constantly having to top up oil? Like sludge/carbon build up?


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

NotTayyeb said:


> Could it cause issues if I am constantly having to top up oil? Like sludge/carbon build up?


No, it won't have any detrimental effect.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

From your pics, it looks like you're losing a liter of oil in ~600 miles. That is double the amount that Audi considers a defect (assuming that your loss isn't due to a leak) and Audi's failure spec is ridiculously loose... 
Burning a little oil is ok, but you are burning much more than that.

You will likely end up with a poisoned (or clogged) catalytic converter and your oil is probably getting thinned-out due to fuel dilution (which increases wear). Changing your oil frequently will help but unfortunately will not fix the underlying problem.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Missed that part, that is excessive. Not judging you, but you're def checking the oil at the right temp? Is your dipstick in good condition, seals and clips intact?


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Rufflesj said:


> Missed that part, that is excessive. Not judging you, but you're def checking the oil at the right temp? Is your dipstick in good condition, seals and clips intact?


Haha yep, checking oil when engine is cold. Checked at the same time of day/engine temp in both pics. Dipstick looks like it's in good condition too... Everything to my eyes seems okay, but I guess answers will come to light when I take my car into a garage.

Worst case scenario it's piston rings that's are terribly worn. I am hoping it's just something like a turbo gasket though.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

I've read that these should be checked at operating temp, 10mins or so after switching off. I also discovered on another forum that the top of my dipstick was missing the two side arms that click into place, the dipstick looked perfectly standard to me as the arms usually break off completely flush! So, in reality I had a vacuum issue and my dipstick readings were out a few mm which was equalling 250-300ml off the level. Hence I asked if your's is good to go.

Have you hooked a code reader up to the car yet? These engines are seriously sensitive in the electronics department, you might get a clue to the oil usage problem.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

https://www.driving.co.uk/news/british- ... nsumption/

I'll check my odometer and level tomorrow and compare against yours, I have it set since my last oil change.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Rufflesj said:


> I also discovered on another forum that the top of my dipstick was missing the two side arms that click into place, the dipstick looked perfectly standard to me as the arms usually break off completely flush! So, in reality I had a vacuum issue and my dipstick readings were out a few mm which was equalling 250-300ml off the level. Hence I asked if your's is good to go.


Just an FYI since you mentioned broken dipsticks... If your car still has an (older) orange-colored dipstick you should replace it asap as they have been know to disintegrate over time (leaving little plastic bits in your oil pickup). The new ones are colored yellow and don't seem to have that problem.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

FNChaos said:


> Rufflesj said:
> 
> 
> > I also discovered on another forum that the top of my dipstick was missing the two side arms that click into place, the dipstick looked perfectly standard to me as the arms usually break off completely flush! So, in reality I had a vacuum issue and my dipstick readings were out a few mm which was equalling 250-300ml off the level. Hence I asked if your's is good to go.
> ...


Yeah was advised about that and best to get from Audi as ebay types can be crappy fake copies, it was only £14 iirc, cheap considering it was from an Audi stealership! :lol:


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Correction: Just dug up my service papers to check when exactly my oil was filled. Looks like my oil was changed/filled a little over 500 miles ago, and I've used 0.5L since then. That would put me back on Audi's (bollocks) spec of 1L over 1000 miles.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Your oil consumption would appear to fail the audi test which in certain circumstances may entitle you to an engine replacement/repair. I would get a compression test asap and if it shows a problem have the oil test conducted by the dealer with a view to claiming a defective engine. Worth a try


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

NotTayyeb said:


> Correction: Just dug up my service papers to check when exactly my oil was filled. Looks like my oil was changed/filled a little over 500 miles ago, and I've used 0.5L since then. That would put me back on Audi's (bollocks) spec of 1L over 1000 miles.


Pisses me off having to spend a further £25-£30 on a top up btl when I change my oil :roll:


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Iceblue said:


> Your oil consumption would appear to fail the audi test which in certain circumstances may entitle you to an engine replacement/repair. I would get a compression test asap and if it shows a problem have the oil test conducted by the dealer with a view to claiming a defective engine. Worth a try


Is it an absolute nightmare getting Audi to recognise this problem? Does the SH have to completely with Audi for them to even acknowledge your car?


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

TBH not sure, but have read on here if all the services are logged and done by a certified mechanic then may be possible. After all a defect claim is not subject to one group servicing only, as that would be unreasonable and their piston issue, if it occurs, is not dependent on who services the car. 
This is a recent case spread over three threads

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1932769

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1942111

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1943371


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

But would they even consider a 2008 car? So 12 years old?


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Not sure model age would be the key factor. How many miles have you done. The example above was a 2010 car with over 65,000 miles. Anyway, something to consider as the amount of oil your using imay not be a long term proposition


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

It's a 2008 with 62000 miles..... It isn't ideal for long term, no. Will get compression tests done on Monday, and maybe I'll get the engine rebuilt for new piston rings if the price is right, and assuming piston rings are the issue. Would probably be cheaper to use a VAG specialist to replace the piston rings, than to have the dealership change them even with their contribution.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

As others have said, replace that dipstick! Before it gives you any greif.

As much as other in here will not agree..
Plenty of documented information to support this, over on such places like TFSI Tuning page on facebook, not just a Fred in the shed on his high horse, spouting his opinion and telling you what to do...

Swap to a decent oil, but 5W40 instead of 5W30.
Especially if the cars mapped.

Personally run 5W40 Millers Nanodrive NT+ in my TTS ( fairly modified :roll: ) It is incredible oil, not that I suffer from the oil consumption issue being a CDL TFSI.

But also swapped ( at the time ) misses 'normal' TFSI over to 5W40 too, as it was higher mileage and mapped and clearly suffering the same slightly undersized piston/incorrect ring size issue, that many TFSI's across the VAG range are plagued with.
Was seeing around 500ml usage in 2 weeks/ 500 miles. Once swapped to 5W40, it was 500ml more like every 8 weeks / 2000 miles. This may of been more, but this has been out of our hands for over 2 years and my memory certainly isn't fresh :lol: 
This was only on quantum (TPS standard) oil too. Did a few services on this as it was peanuts in comparison to the millers and in the end, never made the swap before selling the car. But it certainly worked well.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Barr_end said:


> As others have said, replace that dipstick! Before it gives you any greif.
> 
> As much as other in here will not agree..
> Plenty of documented information to support this, over on such places like TFSI Tuning page on facebook, not just a Fred in the shed on his high horse, spouting his opinion and telling you what to do...
> ...


I'm switching mine over to that Millers also, next change.


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Isn't using 5w40 instead of the recommended 5w30 just hiding the underlying issue though? I mean sure, it could reduce the amount of oil used per mile, but as costly and painful as it may be, wouldn't a minor rebuild/piston ring service be a better solution for the sake of long term engine health?

Just the thought of constantly topping up oil that's being burnt in the engine doesn't sound right to me. I'm just imagining a load of gunk and sooty deposits in the engine, and then all this crap being scraped along the cylinder walls......? :?

Maybe I'm overthinking it..


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

You're looking at 2K minimum if you redo the pistons, it's a very big job unless you're doing some/all of the work yourself. It's never going to be a big problem as long as you keep oil topped up. I'm going to switch just to save on £90 a year for top up btls.


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

Rufflesj said:


> You're looking at 2K minimum if you redo the pistons, it's a very big job unless you're doing some/all of the work yourself.


I have had 1 quote out of curiosity from a VAG specialist near me - Midland VW. They've quoted a bare minimum rebuild with piston rings, and all relevant gaskets and bolts for £1250. So £1250 to make the engine healthy, probably have carbon cleaned out, and I would get to rest assured with the condition of my engine. But £1250 isn't a small amount either......

And then I also did get a quote for a complete engine rebuild from Engine Works for £2500, just because, and that was a literally balls out everything rebuild/reconditioning. So stripped back engine, chemical bath for all parts, valves cleaned, pistons changed, block honed, turbo tested and cleaned, crank repolished etc, and even a timing belt and water pump in that price. But I doubt my engine is even close to that level of buggered to require that kind of work.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

How many miles on your current motor?


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## NotTayyeb (Dec 14, 2019)

FNChaos said:


> How many miles on your current motor?


Just shy of 62000 miles, a 2008 with service history. Does not look like it missed any oil changes/services. I have arranged for a compression test on Friday, so that will tell me if I'm going to be down £1k+.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

£1250 isn't a bad quote at all. If the gear box is good and the car is in mint condition it'd be well worth it. I'd certain part with it if were mine, you could give it a nice little jump up in power with a remap and be content in the knowledge it's a virtually new engine.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Since ethanol blended fuel was implemented, oil consumption and ridiculous amount of blowby became the new normal. 500ml/1k km of oil consumption is normal according to the owner's manual.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Agreed but it is a very low bar particularly given the side effects and potential terminal damage that are outlined in one of the articles provided by Chaos.


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