# TT 225 Wont Start :(



## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

So my 2001 TT 225 has been off the road for a while and last friday I thought I'd tax it un seize the brakes and give it a blast. Once the battery was charged started up no problem, no hunting no funny noises nothing. Spent all day saturday in driving bliss..

Sunday afternoon, came back to the car and it wouldn't start just kept turning over. I'm fairly confident it doesn't need fuel as the fuel gauge (not the most trust worthy of instrument on my car) said 3/4 tank and I'd put petrol in on saturday just before bringing it home.

I plugged in my vag com lite and got the below error codes. I'm gearing up to take it to the garage this thursday however I'm not that confident they'll be able to diagnose the problem.

Can anyone advise?

Many Thanks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8N0 906 018 H
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0004
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 361FA5DB015F
TRUZZZ8N621007300 AUZ5Z0A7100053
8 Faults Found:
17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
P1296 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 
17861 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1453 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16955 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0571 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17947 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1539 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17069 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0685 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction
P1517 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1602 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Google each of the codes and you'll get the details.

Now you have them, clear them and the one(s) causing you problem will come back straight away.

Some of them could have been their for years!

However...... The one that says start blocked by immobiliser could be the issue!
Does the immobiliser light extinguish on the dash? If it starts and immediately cuts out, it's the immobiliser. Try the key the other way up!

*17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent*


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

You should scan the instrument Cluster itself to home-in on the issue.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

uv101 said:


> Google each of the codes and you'll get the details.
> 
> Now you have them, clear them and the one(s) causing you problem will come back straight away.
> 
> Some of them could have been their for years!


Thanks for the quick response. I did run the diagnostics and then pressed 'Clear Code' not sure if that actually cleared them because when I re-ran it came back with the ones I posted.

I've googled the codes this is what I found. Engine Start Blocked by Immobilzer sounds a safe bet, but would it still turn over, I've tried my other key and I get it trying to turn over but not actually starting same as before except this time its shows a yellow key on the dash.

17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235); Open or Short to Plus
16955 - Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

17947 - clutch vacuum vent valve switch incorrect signal
17069 - 17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Open Circuit Problem
17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, It looks as if the codes had not cleared, try clearing again.
Did it fire at all or just kept spinning over. Charge battery again, clear codes & try again.
Hoggy.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Yep it will turn over. It will catch and immediately cut out if the immobiliser is active.

Double check the battery voltage using the aircon codes if you don't have a meter.

If the battery is knackered from being left flat and it can't supply the current, the volts will dip too low for the electronics during starting. Charge the battery again and see if it starts in the morning. This (low voltage) will also throw up lots of obd faults 

edit - Looking at the codes, you have a low voltage warning 
It's the voltage during cranking you need to know, the idle volts could be fine


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the suggestions, going to have another bash at clearing the codes.
My neighbours has a drop tester for the battery so I might give that a go tomorrow.

Newb question again, what a the aircon codes?


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Loads of great info here on WAK's site 

http://www.wak-tt.com/links/links.htm

the link specifically to access the Climate control codes is here
http://www.wak-tt.com/climate/climatecodes.htm


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

computerjocky said:


> Newb question again, what a the aircon codes?


Hi Code 20 will give battery volts & alternator volts to battery when engine running. Click link follow instructions






Hoggy.


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## Stevey83 (Oct 16, 2011)

I would put my money on a low battery voltage, low batteries can cause a list of problems!


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > Newb question again, what a the aircon codes?
> ...


That's Awesome! How have I never seen that before. I've had this car nearly 5 years!

Defiantly trying that tonight!

Thank you


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Stevey83 said:


> I would put my money on a low battery voltage, low batteries can cause a list of problems!


Lets hope so, place your bets!


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Think you already know where my money is!!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

computerjocky said:


> That's Awesome! How have I never seen that before. I've had this car nearly 5 years!
> 
> Defiantly trying that tonight! Thank you


Hi, 20 posts in 5 years that's why. :lol: :lol: :wink: 
Hoggy.


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, 20 posts in 5 years that's why. :lol: :lol: :wink:
> Hoggy.


Do you think there is a life outside of a TT? Must look into this :lol:


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

steveupton said:


> Do you think there is a life outside of a TT? Must look into this :lol:


Lies, there is no spoon


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Ha Ha! Good point. I don't get much chance to drive it but when I do it's awesome! I have a 200+ mile commute each day so the TT is a little thirsty for my needs.

I've defiantly neglected it over the last couple of years, which I need to rectify ASAP. I've ordered new springs, spacers, investigating re-mapping as an apology for my bad behaviour.

I ran the aircon codes and uploaded the video to youtube here.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Yep, down to 9.7 volts on start and idle at 11.7v 

Fairly sure thats your problem. :wink:

Pesky when the codes jump 2 :lol: :lol:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Give the battery a good 12 hour charge minimum before trying again, or replace battery.
Hoggy.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks I'm in the spirit of treating the TT will pick up a new battery tomorrow. Thanks for you help agin.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

uv101 said:


> Yep, down to 9.7 volts on start and idle at 11.7v
> Fairly sure that's your problem. :wink:
> Pesky when the codes jump 2 :lol: :lol:


 Apologies as just picked this up half way through, but,
if it's 11.7 at idle with the engine running then the alternator isn't charging!

If it drops to 9.7 whilst cranking that's not a dead battery. Especially if the battery wasn't fully charged.
Audi's min limit is 9.5vdc whilst cranking the starter. It's in the Bentley manual.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Skee, 0.2 of volt difference to what "bentley" states, :? the battery is flat/dying/may be dead & requires a good charge or replacing & as you said alternator appears not to be charging or some else seriously wrong with battery.
Hoggy.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

It won't start!

11.7 with the car idle not it running at idle (bad choice of words)

Battery was charged Saturday, started and driven. It then wouldn't start Sunday. 

Read back through Skee, there are also fault codes inc low voltage and immobiliser. In the YouTube clip, it
doesn't actually fire. The immobiliser light goes out. My money's on the battery as its been standing flat for a while and was only charge Saturday


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## redtomcat (Jan 7, 2014)

steveupton said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, 20 posts in 5 years that's why. :lol: :lol: :wink:
> ...


Life under a TT as well!


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Any advise on best battery to buy?


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

I watched mine crank this morning and the battery voltage only dropped to about 10.7v.

I think the Bosch one from ECP are pretty highly regarded. That links for a 3year guarantee but you can spend a bit more and get an S4 or an S5 if you wanted.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Audi_ ... f7&000020#

Use the discount code "battery15" and the price will come down to £64.27 with next day delivery


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

excellent will that a try.


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## Stueyturn (Jun 29, 2011)

£55.99 on carparts4less using "cp5less"


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## Stochman (Aug 16, 2013)

lol, 19C to 21C - 21C to 19C - 19C to 21C - 21C to 19C...............own up, you wanted to swear :lol:


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## Lollypop86 (Oct 26, 2013)

computerjocky said:


> I have a 200+ mile commute each day


Jesus......what do you do?!

J
xx


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## Lollypop86 (Oct 26, 2013)

uv101 said:


> Read back through Skee


yea skeeee der der 

J
xx


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Lollypop86 said:


> uv101 said:
> 
> 
> > Read back through Skee
> ...


now now!!! that wasn't how it was meant!


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Lollypop86 said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > I have a 200+ mile commute each day
> ...


Nothing that exciting lol. Just work in London and live 100 odd miles away. I've got nothing against Londoner's per say..

I usually take the motorbike (is that a dirty word on a car forum? - especially if its a BMW?) which is around 70mpg so alot cheaper than the TT alternative.

Anyway I've ordered the battery which is hopefully coming tomorrow in time for me to drive it to the garage to fit my new springs + spacers! (and probably alternator is the new battery wont charge [smiley=bigcry.gif] )


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Bad News... Just placed in the new battery, car still won't start. It turns over but the engine wont fire... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Any ideas?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Clear all the codes. Then try again. Then post back with the codes that have come back up.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Managed to Clear the faults codes and got the following

17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (j271): Open Circuit P0685 35-00


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi,Click link..Not sure where relay is, probably under driver side dash, "Bentley" states under bonnet, but believe that's for USA TTs, check fuses 10,29,34 & 43.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17069/P0685

Hoggy.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi,Click link..Not sure where relay is, probably under driver side dash, "Bentley" states under bonnet, but believe that's for USA TTs, check fuses 10,29,34 & 43.
> 
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17069/P0685
> 
> Hoggy.


thanks for the link, not sure what a relay even looks like, my guess would have been under the bonnet. Checked the fuse no breakages and all looked seated correctly.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

That's rubbish 

Does it fire then stop or just spin over. What about the immobiliser light?

Any codes come up scanning the dash?


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

uv101 said:


> That's rubbish
> 
> Does it fire then stop or just spin over. What about the immobiliser light?
> 
> Any codes come up scanning the dash?


I know 

Just spins, no immobiliser light, tried the other key then the immobiliser light came up as expected.

No codes came up when scanning the dash. Only the ECM fault came up.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

computerjocky said:


> Just spins, no immobiliser light, tried the other key then the immobiliser light came up as expected.
> 
> No codes came up when scanning the dash. Only the ECM fault came up.


Hi, Just found this, it appears relay J271 is under bonnet close to brake fluid reservoir.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=307325

Hoggy.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Any problems you noticed with the cabling on top of the battery by the fuses?

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Just found this, it appears relay J271 is under bonnet close to brake fluid reservoir.


It might be on a LHD car but not on ours.

It's in a black plastic box to the left of the plastic waterfall on the right hand side of the engine bay just underneath the strut brace. Think there's only one relay in there and that's the J271. Take it out, make sure the contacts arent corroded and put it back in again.

Also check all the fuses under the side of the dashboard as a couple of those provide power to the ECU aswell.

If all fuses are fine and it still doesnt start I'd swap the J271 relay for a new one.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

L33JSA said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, Just found this, it appears relay J271 is under bonnet close to brake fluid reservoir.
> ...


Hi, Excellent, was hoping someone would know the correct location.....Only way to learn is ask or give wrong answer  
So come on Computerjockey, now get it sorted... :lol: :wink:

Hoggy.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Ha ha! just come back in from the rain, after I eventually found the EMU i opened the case and found only one relay 428, not relay 100 that was in the picture, I thought that was odd.

Anyway after reading your posts realise thats now normal (phew). I pulled out 428 relay gave it a clean (looked pretty clean to me) plugged back in no joy.

Going to order another one now. Only can seem to find used ones. Which is a bit odd. Might give audi a call tomorrow see how much they want for one.

Thanks for the help. Defiantly learning a lot about my TT tonight

Anyway took a few pics today to document before all the work is done (springs spacers, body work etc)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/computerjo ... 810440333/


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Don't forget to check your fuses too.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Don't forget to check your fuses too.


Checked fuses 10,29,34 & 43 which looked ok. Do you know if there are anyothers I should check?


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Alas, still won't start I get the same error on the Vagcom still so thats something at least. Now I currently checking every fuse next to the dash, are there any others I should be checking? There are some green fuses on top of the batter unit. Not sure how I would know if the fuse was gone on that.

It this point I've replaced the battery and the Relay. Could it be something I've done while replacing the battery?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Here is a diagram of what the fuses are for in the engine bay...(shamelessly pinched from Hoggy)










There's also a possibility that you have a wiring issue or faulty ECU.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

You could do with testing the feeds & triggers to that relay too


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Here is a diagram of what the fuses are for in the engine bay...(shamelessly pinched from Hoggy)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The only things I can see on the third fuse in is a little bit of gunk. There was a dead fly on it which looked like it had been there some time i took it off this is what it looks like now.


__
https://flic.kr/p/12011033116


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Nothing wrong with those fuses at all mate.

I take it you've checked all the fuses on the right hand side of the dash and they are all ok? Both the smaller & the larger fuses?


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Nothing wrong with those fuses at all mate.
> 
> I take it you've checked all the fuses on the right hand side of the dash and they are all ok? Both the smaller & the larger fuses?


I've taken out and looked at all the fuses this morning. Can't see any breaks [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

computerjocky said:


> L33JSA said:
> 
> 
> > Nothing wrong with those fuses at all mate.
> ...


Hi, you really need to check for continuity, rather than just looking at them. Don't you have a meter ?
Hoggy.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Has per Hoggy - go get a multimeter from Maplin or your nearest DIY store - you'll need it to test everything anyway.

Just looked at the wiring diagrams - I believe you need to focuse your attention on fuse 37 & 29 inside the car.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Has per Hoggy - go get a multimeter from Maplin or your nearest DIY store - you'll need it to test everything anyway.
> 
> Just looked at the wiring diagrams - I believe you need to focuse your attention on fuse 37 & 29 inside the car.


On route to Maplin, will let you know the results!


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Excellent - I've got a few more things for you to try if its not the fuses.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Right then, got the multimeter finally figured out how to use it :roll:

Checked all the fuses I could on the board. Some of the smaller ones I didn't know how to test as they don't have contacts on the top of them.

All the larger fuses showed voltage.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

It's not voltage you want to check - its continuity across the fuse.

Remove fuses 29 and 37 and test them by doing the below...

http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Fuse-With-a-Multimeter


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> It's not voltage you want to check - its continuity across the fuse.
> 
> Remove fuses 29 and 37 and test them by doing the below...
> 
> http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Fuse-With-a-Multimeter


I've Checked fuses 10,29,34, 37 & 43 using the multi meter as described in the link you sent me. All back ok.

Could it be the ignition coils? I can't help think I've missed something simple seeing as It was running one day but not the next?!

Also could it be the fuel pump? Would that make sense?


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Is the following the only code you have after clearing all the codes and attempting to start?
* 17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (j271): Open Circuit P0685 35-00.*
Then I wouldn't suspect a coilpack.

If fuse 10 is good and you've replaced J271 check you have 12v dc at the relay base socket 4 and then have a good look at the coilpack wiring harness for damage.

 17069/P0685 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271): Open Circuit
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Engine doesn't start

Possible Causes
Voltage supply issue for ECM
Faulty ECM Relay (J271)

Possible Solutions
Test voltage supply to ECM
Check wiring and fuses 
Replace Faulty ECM Relay (J271) 

Now that you're an expert with a multimeter check the continuity from the relay socket to the coilpacks.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Not done something to the dashpod while changing the battery has it???

Wasn't there a guy a few weeks ago who had similar issues which were resolved after the dashpod was sorted?   [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

uv101 said:


> Not done something to the dashpod while changing the battery has it???
> 
> Wasn't there a guy a few weeks ago who had similar issues which were resolved after the dashpod was sorted?   [smiley=bigcry.gif]


 That wiring route does go via the dashpod? See diags above.
_But why would it suddenly fail?_ _Was it loose to begin with and the drive dislodged it?_


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the detailed posts will give it a try. Going to check the base first then try and de-cript the Wiring diagram lol.

The roads round my way are pretty bumpy so I wouldn't be surprised if that was a factor.

So as I said before the Car has been off the road for some time because I don't get much time to use it, I do remember though that before I stopped using it last year it was acting very strange&#8230; probably the warning signs for this fault??

This is what it did last July; 
I was driving along and all of a sudden I lost power, the engine was still running but the brakes, accelerator everything stopped working. I pulled in switched off the engine and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start, it turned over but wouldn't fire. I had a mechanic friend of mine in the car with me and he couldn't see anything obvious like belt coming off the alternator. So i had to get the car recovered. 
I left it at the garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it! In fact it started first time for them. So i bought the car back and drove it for a couple of days. Then one day, it started but wouldn't respond to the throttle?? So the engine was running but foot to the floor nothing happening.

Very Very Odd.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

That could have been the 17925 intermittent 35-10,
There were two faults, the hard 35-00 and another intermittent 35-10, but one could have been a prerequisite for the other so speculating faults on the TT databus is a little foolish.

Best way imho is to scan it, clear it and see what returns.

_
Edit:- Spelling correction_; 35-10 =intermittent. :roll:


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

just tested the relay base for voltage, looks ok.

Still getting my head round the wiring diagram, just disconnected a coil put a new spark plug init to check if a spark is being generated and its not. lack of spark is defiantly the issue. I'm assuming the wiring will be the cause of the lack of spark. Does that sound right?


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

computerjocky said:


> just tested the relay base for voltage, looks ok.
> 
> Still getting my head round the wiring diagram, just disconnected a coil put a new spark plug init to check if a spark is being generated and its not. lack of spark is defiantly the issue. I'm assuming the wiring will be the cause of the lack of spark. Does that sound right?


 I'm guessing here, from the wiring diagram, that the spark signal/voltage comes from the Motronic Unit, that is powered from Relay J271. So if you have a fault code 17069 there won't be a spark.

From page 25/10 above.
If you have 12vdc at socket 4 of the relay base then I would do a continuity (Ohms) check _*with the ignition off*_ from the relay base socket 2/87 to each of the coilpack plugs socket 1.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

It probably would have been extremely useful if you'd given the background behind the problem a bit sooner.

I would say that there's a good chance you've got a faulty ECU- especially since it was not responding to the accelerator etc.

One thing to try.

Put your ear next to the relay and have someone switch the ignition on - can you hear the relay 'click' or not? If you hold it you should be able to feel it through your fingers too.

If not then the ECU might not be sending the ground signal to it. You can however manually ground it yourself.

Try running a piece of wire from from the negative terminal of the battery and attach it to the number 85 pin in the relay

see your pic here..










You'll need to keep the relay plugged in so the other points are still connected so you may have to raise it a little out of the holder or perhaps feed it in from underneath the connector - either way you need to make sure it makes contact with the pin somehow.

You'll know it's worked when you attach the other end to the negative post of your battery you should here it click - leave it connected and then try starting the car.



computerjocky said:


> lack of spark is defiantly the issue.


It will probably be lack of spark AND fuel I'd imagine - if the ECU isnt functioning properly then it won't be supplying any signals to anywhere..


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> It probably would have been extremely useful if you'd given the background behind the problem a bit sooner.
> 
> I would say that there's a good chance you've got a faulty ECU- especially since it was not responding to the accelerator etc.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the advice I'm sorry for omitting the previous faults I'd only just remembered. Planning to take a look at it once I get back from Work tonight.

If I try and turn it over I can smell fuel which makes me think the Fuel pump is working.

If it is the ECU how much would it cost to replace/code? Should I start witting a re-mortgage application?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

computerjocky said:


> If it is the ECU how much would it cost to replace/code? Should I start witting a re-mortgage application?


You can pick them up pretty reasonably second hand - and then you just need to have it coded to your immobiliser.

Presumably yours is BAM engined TT...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-AUDI- ... 3389b3fe23

or perhaps even a remapped one...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-MK1-1 ... 4d177e73f1


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > If it is the ECU how much would it cost to replace/code? Should I start witting a re-mortgage application?
> ...


That's not too bad at all. However I'm assuming the re-coding will be the expensive part? And also need to take the ECU and Car to Audi dealer to get re-coded?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

computerjocky said:


> That's not too bad at all. However I'm assuming the re-coding will be the expensive part? And also need to take the ECU and Car to Audi dealer to get re-coded?


 Anyone with VAGCOM can do it & it takes about 5mins


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > That's not too bad at all. However I'm assuming the re-coding will be the expensive part? And also need to take the ECU and Car to Audi dealer to get re-coded?
> ...


Really?! I thought only a dealer could do it as It needed to be re-coded to the immobilizer. (That's only what I've gathered reading this forum, and would be very happy to be wrong on this point  )


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

computerjocky said:


> .....and would be very happy to be wrong on this point  )


Consider yourself proved wrong then :lol:


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > .....and would be very happy to be wrong on this point  )
> ...


 Lol good news, really wanted to avoid the dealer unless absolutely necessary.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> It probably would have been extremely useful if you'd given the background behind the problem a bit sooner.
> 
> I would say that there's a good chance you've got a faulty ECU- especially since it was not responding to the accelerator etc.
> 
> ...


Great News!!!! Its alive!!!!!!!

Ran a wire from pin 85 to earth turned the key stared strait away.    










Now just need to figure out how to fix it permanently

Thank you everyone, literally did a back flip when it started up.


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## NoMark (Jul 6, 2011)

Well done Lee, fantastic remote diagnosis.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

computerjocky said:


> Now just need to figure out how to fix it permanently
> 
> Thank you everyone, literally did a back flip when it started up.


Glad that did the trick.

Things to check - that connection on that relay should go back to pin 21 on the ECU connector - ECU is under the scuttle panel on the right hand side. Disconnect the connectors and look for pin 21. Do a continuity check between the relay connector and the ECU pin. If this checks out then you will definitely need a replacement ECU - the ECU sends a grounding trigger.

Failing that a temporary 'bodge' would be to run a cable inside the cabin and put a switch on it - one side of the switch to the relay and the other side to a ground. Not brilliant but it would work to get you by for now - just remember to turn it off when you switch the engine off. You could always do this automatically with a relay as well using an ignition live as a trigger -this is a slightly better way of doing it.

Thing is from the symptoms you've described earlier I don't think it will be the last of the issues if you keep that ECU in such as acc pedal not responding.

Basically what I'm trying to say is replace the ECU and that should sort this problem and pre-empt any new ones


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks Going to order one now.

How can I tell which ECU to buy?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Whats your engine code? BAM or APX?


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## Travis199 (Jan 6, 2013)

Impressive work Lee

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Whats your engine code? BAM or APX?


Newb question how can I tell?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Look at the left your cylinder head.....more or less next to the bottom clip holding the hard silver charge pipe that runs to the left of the engine. It will have BAM or APX stamped into it.

Either that or take a pic of your engine around that area and post it up here.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

NoMark said:


> Well done Lee, fantastic remote diagnosis.


 +1 Good call!


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## Stochman (Aug 16, 2013)

Fantastic diagnosis and problem solving Lee [smiley=dude.gif] It's posters like yourself that make this forum the fantastic place that it is! [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Stochman said:


> Fantastic diagnosis and problem solving Lee [smiley=dude.gif] It's posters like yourself that make this forum the fantastic place that it is! [smiley=cheers.gif]


My thoughts exactly. It's defiantly been a positive experience from all the Members who've contributed to this post, I've been learning a lot (including how to use a multi-meter!!)

Ordering a ECU today, just got to find somewhere to code it to the car. Any ideas?

Don't really want to use the Dealer as I'm not 100% sure I would trust what they were telling me if there were a problem if that makes sense. I've dealt with 2 in my area before and even something as simple as OEM wheel locking nuts was a bit of a nightmare.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Might be handy to mention whereabouts you are in the country.


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## NoMark (Jul 6, 2011)

If you post where you're based you may get a member with vagcom who would be prepared to do it for you.

EDIT: D'oh, Lee beat me to it! :roll: :lol:


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

L33JSA said:


> Might be handy to mention whereabouts you are in the country.


Lol school boy error, I'm near Swindon. Happy to drive anywhere though, I often drive up to staffordshire. Car Permitting of Course!


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Can't help with anybody down those ways I'm afraid...

But here's a DIY dependant upon the Immobiliser version

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... U_Swapping


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Wow, that looks actually quite simple with a vag com. Thank you again! Really really appreciate it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Awesome work Lee 
Great Diagnosis.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

These pages may be useful?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

The ECUs can sometimes (although rare) lose their memory slowly over time as they are FLASH programmed. Early dashpods had a similar problem due to being programmed too quick. Often they show problems at extremes of temperature first if this is the case. Sometimes warming them up gets them going again and tends to indicate this is the issue. I wouldn't rule out a bad wiring connection though possibly caused by water ingress and corrosion. If it's the ECU there are quite a few different types not just BAM and APX - you really need to go from the part number on the label.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Hi all, after 7 months most of which trying to get the ecu out (those windscreen wipers were welded on) I've replaced the ECU but still the same issue. So to recap,

Car wouldn't start with 17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363): Electrical Malfunction error.

Ran a cable from the relay earth to the battery negative, relay clicks car starts.

Removed and replaced ecu with different one (from ebay)

Removed temporary earth cable from Relay

Car won't start

Re-connected temporary cable

Car starts.

Could the wiring need replacing?

Many Thanks

Ed


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Yup.......I'd be looking at loom issues next.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Hi all, back again

I've been having some problems with my TT not starting for a while due to an issue with the ECM Power Relay Control Unit. I bought the bentley Workshop manual and have been scanning the wiring diagrams, cleaning up the earth points and now resigned to replacing the engine wiring loom.

The car will run if i manually earth the ECM Power Relay but the brake lights have now stopped working lol [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I plugged the car in last night and got the following.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 17 February 2015, 18:47:14.

Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,22,35,37,45,55,56,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8N0 906 018 H
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0004
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 361FA5DB015F
TRUZZZ8N621007300 AUZ5Z0A7100053
7 Faults Found:
17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271): Open Circuit
P0685 - 35-00 - -
18010 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1602 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17978 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1570 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16955 - Brake Switch (F): Implausible Signal
P0571 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0102 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
17861 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1453 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0001

What I'd like to know is do I have to replace all of it? Or only some?

Many Thanks


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I suspect your brake light may be a faulty brake light switch as you have indication of this in the fault codes. When you say your brake lights have stopped working did you mean this fault code or have the brake lights actually stopped lighting up? There are two switches in one unit - one for the lights and one to indicate if the pedal is pressed to the system.

As for the loom issue, as ever there is likely only to be a single fault, so just a case of finding it. The wiring diagram in the forum Knowledge Base may be easier to follow (see my sig strip). Ultimately you can trace through the earth connection. There may be nothing wrong with the loom itself but a bad connection to it is more likely. The VIO (violet) line follows through to the ECU and I suspect this is what you've been earthing - which is what the ECU should be doing. Either the ECU isn't or its connection through to the relay is faulty. I'd start by having a look at this connection. See if you get continuity through to the ECU.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the response. The Brake Lights are not lighting up.

I've just had a look at the system wiring Diagram in the knowledge base but unless I'm doing something daft there are no pictures in it. Just titles? Is it just me?

this is the one I've downloaded download/file.php?id=150865

Thanks

Ed


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I'd second the brake light switch

On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

computerjocky said:


> Thanks for the response. The Brake Lights are not lighting up.
> 
> I've just had a look at the system wiring Diagram in the knowledge base but unless I'm doing something daft there are no pictures in it. Just titles? Is it just me?
> 
> ...


Try scrolling down the pages - there's a diagram every other page or it may be a page view issue in Acrobat


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## asahartz (May 24, 2014)

Check fuses first. If you can look carefully at the wiring diagram you may find all the components showing fault codes share a common fuse - I had a similar issue recently, and only diagnosed the fuse after replacing both lambda sensors and the MAF. Because the wiring diagram is so extensive I only worked it out by redrawing the bits that were affected.


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks managed to get the PDF showing the diagrams. (Using the wrong software to open it..  ) Taking a look now. I'll give the fuses a check too!

Thanks


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

So after studying the wiring diagrams, I unwrapped the loom and tested the cable in question and found the break. I cut the cable and re-connected it and we have lift of!!










Very happy. Still need to re-run in a new wire but things are looking good.

Thanks All

Ed


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I love it when a wiring diagram matches reality! What caused the break?


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> computerjocky said:
> 
> 
> > Newb question again, what a the aircon codes?
> ...


very handy, ta !


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## computerjocky (Mar 31, 2009)

John-H said:


> I love it when a wiring diagram matches reality! What caused the break?


I'm not sure  but i think it has something to do with the movement of the ECU as it isn't secured


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