# Back to basics



## kylinder (Apr 22, 2009)

Hi All,

I'm embaressed to say I have never personally cleaned my car myself the correct way, previous cars I have just used the bucket/sponge/chamoue method. I've always opted for going to the local hand car wash and let them work their lack of magic.

Now i've decided to start doing it myself with the aim of eventually moving on to machine polishing, but I will learn to walk before I run.

I have a Mk 2 in Meteor Grey.

Could you advise me on a shopping list, starting with mitt/sponge to the recommended shampoo and polish to suit my car.

I've purchased some Liquid Leather in order to sort my beige seats.

I do have some swirls which i'd like to work out also.

Any help would be appreciated in order to get me started. I will be trawling through DW to find some hand polishing guides too

Thanks


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## dzTT (Mar 11, 2009)

Hi there,

Meguiar's Gold Class is my preferred Shampoo stuff although tried Chemical Guys Maxi Suds and thats not bad as well.
I've got a Turtle Wax wash mitt from halfords...a big green thing. Good for the first wash.

Best to have a look here http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/ got virtually everything you will need :wink:


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## kylinder (Apr 22, 2009)

Thanks for the reply.

I'll check that link and start putting my shopping list together


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## TT Ade (Aug 20, 2007)

I've been using the Megs NXT shampoo which has been fine, though I think I might go for a change next time. The Dodo born to be mild gets some very, very good reviews. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=490

I prefer the sheep skin mitt, though I have a MF mitt too.


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## ahaydock (Sep 19, 2006)

Right here's a few ideas and you may want to check out Detailing World.

Mitt - Meguiars Lambswool Washmitt
Shampoo - Duragloss 901 is very good without spending silly money. But the Dodo ones are good as is the Megs Gold Glass, NXT or even Zymol Autowash.
Drying Towel - Sonus Der Wunder gets my vote

Make sure you wash properly using the 2 bucket method.

If you are polishing by hand then you wont go too far wrong with AG Super Resin Polish and top with a decent wax like Victoria Concours or Dodo Banana Amour. Collinite 476 is also very good and very durable.

To get the best finish thought you will need to think about Claying and having a Machine Polish.

If you can afford to maybe get a pro detailier in to give it the works, watch what they do and focus on looking after it.

HTHs to start with.


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## kylinder (Apr 22, 2009)

Ok thanks for the advice so far.

I already have some Megs clay which I will use.

Will I need specific cleaner for the wheels and arches?

I've ordered AG SRP, EZ Detail Brush.

Do you think Dodo Juice Blue Velvet will work ok?

CYC are out of the recommended shampoo and megs mitt so i'll look to order that elsewhere

Another question. Other then the drying microfibre towel, what m/f products will I need for applying the polish and waxes? I've read the polish can be applied with a "german applicator" or the similar sonus one. Is this true?


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## MrHooky (Oct 27, 2009)

Kylinder

I've also recently taken to only washing my car by hand, I used to take my Candy White leon to the local car wash although white doesn't really show up swirls plus it was a leased car, hence I didn't care too much about it.

I used to have a cheapish wash/wax combo, a MF wash mitt and a chamoix. I thought I had a good technique before I came on this forum...

I Bought a dolomite grey 2004 MKI TT back in October 2009 to which it has now been treated with the following products. They've been covered above but this is what I went for:

1) Lambswool mitt - trust me, worth the investment especially when used with a good car shampoo. Should cost about £10 or so...

2) *Meguiars Gold Class *- smells lovely, and teamed with the washmitt, produces great suds. My MF get's barely any suds with the Gold class, although when using the lamswool it does seem as though you're giving the car a really good shampoo. It has conditioners in and claims not to strip the wax, which is important for longevity of shiney-ness! £15 for the jumbo bottle.

3) I then bought some *Autoglym Super Resin Polish*. I'd read a good review on this when compared to other products as it is supposed to contain fillers as well as leaving a protective sealent. Based my purchase purely on this review I found - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... ng+by+hand. About £10 for descent size bottle.

4) Then I wasn't happy with the R222 wax as although left a good shine, was a pain to work with if left too long and didn't last more than a month. Have just bought some *Colinite 476* which is cheap and has left a great finish. Supposed to last 6-12 months which is a plus too. £15 off eBay

5) Wheels - I used to use normal supermarket wheel cleaner. Then I heard about *Viro-sol*. Great product, very cheap, and makes a mockery of the acid based budget cleaners.

6) Drying - get yourself some *waffle weave towels*. I bought a Sonus towel for about £10 for CYC and then bought six smaller ones of eBay for the same price. They 'polish' as well as drying the car. No smears, and far quicker than the chamoix. The latter is now relegated to the doors and shuts. Look at this thread I posted, which has a link to some descent ones for a tenna - viewtopic.php?f=31&t=164044.

7) Finally, I bought some Autoglym metal polish and some *Autosol *for polishing exhaust tips and wheels outers (I've had the outside of my BBS polished hence they need them!). To be honest, I don't think you need the Autoglym, just thought I'd try it, but you can get the Autosol of eBay for a couple of quid.

I've probably spent about £60 - £70 of late on products which is nothing compared to what some of the guys on here must have spent. Yes my car would look even better if it had a full machine polish paint correction, but I've now got a descent suite of products to do the whole car with for at least 12 months. Also. the megs and viro-sol containers are massive!

Oh and last point. Halfords sell the Gold Class for £15. No postage to pay like CYC hence worth getting down there if you want it. I've not used any of the other expensive washes, but I can still vouch for the Gold Class. Also, the Collinite is worth a look. Great results and longevity, has to make it a front runner if you're like me and can't be bothered to wax every month&#8230;

Oh and it's worth saying, look on CYC for products and reviews, although don't rule out looking on eBay or getting down to Halfords. The latter has all the Megs Nxt products and a lot of Autoglym. Also, stop using chamois and move to MF drying towels. Will help preserve any wax and stop getting further swirls.

Hope that helps.


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## MrHooky (Oct 27, 2009)

Oh and I meant to say I used Megs Foam Applicator pads for applying polishes and waxes - again off eBay. And bought a couple of specific polishing cloths off CYC. Although I think any descent supermarket MF cloth would be good.

See you've already bought some goods. Sure they'll all work well, but filling in your missing products, I'd go Megs Gold class (from Halfords) some Collinite for longevity, then Viro-Sol for wheels. Look at the cheap and easy wheel cleaner thread at top of show and shine section...

Think I need to get me some clay. Not tried using that yet!


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## TT Ade (Aug 20, 2007)

MrHooky said:


> Think I need to get me some clay. Not tried using that yet!


You will see a great improvement after using clay, the clay will take your paint work back to very smooth glass like finish and the products you use after that will be enhanced, really makes a big difference.


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## MrHooky (Oct 27, 2009)

Ade - It is on the to-do list although just happy with the SRP and Collinite to see me through to the Spring. Had noticed a few 'bumps' on the paintwork when I was polishing and waxing which I know claying would sort although a combination of the weather and not having the time is meaning I'll wait I think a few months before I give it a go...!

Not wanting to hi-jack this thread but any partcicular clay good for someone who's not done it before? I know it's a 'fine' clay I need to use, and from what I've read was going to couple it with a heavily diluted mix of my Gold Class shampoo. This sound about right?


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## TT Ade (Aug 20, 2007)

MrHooky said:


> Ade - It is on the to-do list although just happy with the SRP and Collinite to see me through to the Spring. Had noticed a few 'bumps' on the paintwork when I was polishing and waxing which I know claying would sort although a combination of the weather and not having the time is meaning I'll wait I think a few months before I give it a go...!
> 
> Not wanting to hi-jack this thread but any partcicular clay good for someone who's not done it before? I know it's a 'fine' clay I need to use, and from what I've read was going to couple it with a heavily diluted mix of my Gold Class shampoo. This sound about right?


I have the CYC blue clay and the Sonus Ultra fine clay which I use in between polishing, I like to use Megs Last Touch as a lube for the clay and it also doubles up as a nice enhancer for the wax after washing if I'm not re waxing the car. I've not tried using shampoo as a lube though I know some clays are happy with water to do that job. Just make sure you aren't feeling the clay dragging on the paint and you should be OK.


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## kylinder (Apr 22, 2009)

Apologies for the number of questions.

After having a think I feel it may be worth investing in a machine polisher.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing ... d_522.html

Would that kit be ok? I'm just wondering whether the polish which comes with it will be used instead of the AG SRP?

I guess i will still need a decent wax, the Dodo and Victorior Concourse still work well with a machine polisher don't they?

Last question for now, will I need to buff the polish/ wax with a mf towel, or will the pads supply work sufficiently.

Thanks again


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## MrHooky (Oct 27, 2009)

TT Ade said:


> I'm just wondering whether the polish which comes with it will be used instead of the AG SRP?


Kylinder I would sack off the SRP if you're going for one of those. I'm not pro with the machine polisher and don't intend to invest in one just yet although I think the Mezerna polishes will work wonders with the machine. Someone will come on and confirm that I'm sure.

I only recommended the SRP as I was happy with the finish using good old elbow grease. Moving into a different league with a machine polisher!

I'd love to pay someone to detail my car with one though...


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## TT Ade (Aug 20, 2007)

Hi

The polishing machine and pads are primarily for polish, I wouldn't apply a wax with one. I would use the polish that came with that machine, the Menz polishes will remove the swirls while the SRP tends to fill them which is ideal if you're doing it by hand. If you're going to machine polish I would definitely clay before polishing to ensure the paint work is as smooth and as clean as it can be.

The kit looks great, they are the polishes I use. I had a G220 polishing machine that bit the dust and replaced it with one of these http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...efview=lister&ts=1266934727054&isSearch=false. Have to say I was well impressed, it did everything I would expect from a more expensive machine.


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## kylinder (Apr 22, 2009)

Ok, i'll lose the SRP. Hopefully I don't destroy my paint with the machine. I will definately clay

So i'll order the wax, applicator pads and wax etc as before. I read on the Victoria Concourse description that it is hard to work in, i'm not sure if my technique (being a first timer) will work it to it's full potential.

I was also recommended Dodo Juice Blue Velvet. The wax is the last thing I need to decide on then i will have my full list...for now


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## TT Ade (Aug 20, 2007)

The key to using the VC is to put it on very thinly and don't leave it to dry, buff it off before it does. I can't say I've ever experienced problems using the VC wax. I've never tried the DoDo Blue Velvet wax.


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## MrHooky (Oct 27, 2009)

TT Ade said:


> The key to using the VC is to put it on very thinly and don't leave it to dry, buff it off before it does. I can't say I've ever experienced problems using the VC wax. I've never tried the DoDo Blue Velvet wax.


Weirdly, with the Collinite 476 I found it easier to let it completely haze over before buffing off, although when using R222 previously if I'd let haze over then it was near impossible to get it off!

Would also agree with the 'put on thinly' approach. Less seems to be more with wax, after all they say that putting too many layers off a good carnuaba can cause dulling due to the fact it's a yellowy material when in the tin (makes sense). If you put on thinly you can always put a second coat on...


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