# Dash cam install



## AndyOB (Jul 10, 2015)

Hi guys,

Thought I'd run through my Saturday afternoon dash cam install in the hope that it helps someone 

All the gear minus the power lead for the dash cam:

Blackvue DR-3500
Moto park multi safer (battery discharge prevention device)
Fuse tester









The DR-3500 has a parking mode that detects motion which triggers the camera to record so I'm using the multi safer to make sure the battery never gets too low.

*Step 1. Mount the camera*

Stick the camera in position. Wee bit tricky because the camera mount uses an adhesive pad so you want to make sure you get it right! I aligned the lens with the rear view mirror mount to make sure it was centre.









I've actually mounted the camera upside down so it could be mounted to the left hand side of the rear view mirror. This keeps it out of site when sitting in the drivers seat. The Blackvue software allows you to flip the footage so it's not a big deal for me 

You can see in the image above it's very hard to notice from the outside which is great. It has a bubble in the adhesive mount which I was disappointed about but it has went away since I took the picture.

*Step 2. Install multi safer*

Pop open the fusebox cover which is located on the drivers side. You can just use the car key.









On the inside there's clips to pull out the fuses and a list of which fuse goes to what.









The multi safer needs to be wired to a constant power supply and an ACC supply. ACC is just a supply that is only active when the car is on.

I used the horn fuse for constant and the air conditioning fuse for ACC. To double check I used the fuse tester which has a light to let you know if the fuse is getting a power supply.









Use the clips to pull out the fuse and wrap the wire around one of the legs and pop it back in. Do for both wires. Yellow goes to constant and red goes to ACC.









Attach the grounding wire to one of the metal bolts.









All wired up!









It's alive 










*Step 3. Camera power lead*

Run the power lead from the camera to the fusebox area. I tucked the lead into the roof lining and ran it down the A-pillar which is neat enough for me!










*Step 4. Plug the power lead into the multi safer*

Now just plug in the camera power lead into the multi safer power socket and arrange the cables as neatly as you like 









Pop the fusebox cover back on, and you're good to go! 









And that's everything! Hope it helps someone. I'd never done this before myself and found it a really easy job so I'm sure anyone could do it 

Some of the images have came out the wrong way round but clicking on them will take you to the full size image at the correct angle.

Cheers


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## NK9TT (Nov 2, 2015)

Very informative and straight forward guide. Thank for taking the time to write it up! I'm sure it'll help someone- I've been looking around at a few dash cams but once I select one, I'm sure I'll come back to this guide.

Cheers!


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## aquazi (Dec 24, 2014)

A couple of things.... Use a piggy back fuse instead of wrapping wiring around a live fuse leg.

The lead can be pushed under the A pillar from the dash to be totally invisible - without removing the A pillar trim..... Use a trim tool and push down... The a pillar will flex out of the way.

I fitted my dash cam but used a 12v to usb adaptor and then secured that to the metal bar inside the fuse area with a nut and bolt:

















Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Thanks for that. I am looking around at the moment. Thinking of the Blackvue 650. I have a roadster and I think it will fit snug above the rear view mirror. I want one I am just worried about it not obscuring the view or looking crap. Trying to find a pic of a fitted Roadster one before I commit.


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Nice write up Andy. With dashcams becoming more popular I'm sure this will help a lot of members.



aquazi said:


> A couple of things.... Use a piggy back fuse instead of wrapping wiring around a live fuse leg.
> 
> The lead can be pushed under the A pillar from the dash to be totally invisible - without removing the A pillar trim..... Use a trim tool and push down... The a pillar will flex out of the way.
> 
> I fitted my dash cam but used a 12v to usb adaptor and then secured that to the metal bar inside the fuse area with a nut and bolt:


+1 on the piggy back fuse holders.  
I find sticky velcro tape is handy for securing stuff in tight spaces. It also helps to reduce annoying rattles and makes it easy to remove and refit the item later if necessary.


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## TDI Roadster (Apr 27, 2014)

CarloSalt said:


> Thanks for that. I am looking around at the moment. Thinking of the Blackvue 650. I have a roadster and I think it will fit snug above the rear view mirror. I want one I am just worried about it not obscuring the view or looking crap. Trying to find a pic of a fitted Roadster one before I commit.


Hi My Roadster has a blackvue Fitted


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Great thank you. Will it fit above the mirror ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TDI Roadster (Apr 27, 2014)

TDI Roadster said:


> CarloSalt said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for that. I am looking around at the moment. Thinking of the Blackvue 650. I have a roadster and I think it will fit snug above the rear view mirror. I want one I am just worried about it not obscuring the view or looking crap. Trying to find a pic of a fitted Roadster one before I commit.
> ...


Hi Not above the Mirror only Behind it.......


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## AndyOB (Jul 10, 2015)

Glad you are finding it useful 

The guide for installing the multi safer actually said to wrap the wiring around the fuse leg but I will look at upgrading it to a piggy back fuse, thanks for the advice!

For the least expensive dash cam from Blackvue the 3500 seems to be great so far and I am really liking the parking mode  I don't think you have to worry about it looking crap as it's really not that noticeable from the outside and when driving the only thing I can see is the lead running up to the roof lining.


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## bennyball (Dec 7, 2015)

Does it automatically switch to motion detection mode when you turn the ignition off then?


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## AndyOB (Jul 10, 2015)

Yeah it remains in normal mode for 10 minutes I think it is then switches to parking mode (motion detection)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ CarloSalt - You can see how I've positioned it as far up the windshield frame as possible, and just behind mirror with the mounting 'foot' just below the Swiss vignette. As you can see, if positioned carefully the Mini-0860 will fit behind the mirror so it's centered in the windshield and is not visible in the drivers view. It's actually small enough that even directly in front of the mirror, the Mini-0860 is not that obvious from outside the vehicle. From this location, the camera becomes difficult to see from outside the car since it tends to blend with the mirror and of course any outside reflection off the glass will only aid in making it less visible.


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ CarloSalt - Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate today so the picture is rather dark. But, you can see how I've positioned it as far up the windshield frame as possible, and to the right of the mirror. However, since I had to replace my vignette from 2015 to 2016, I decided to relocated the camera directly behind the mirror and use the vignette to hide the mounting bracket. If the weather improves this week, I'll post some additional pictures for you. But to answer your question, yes, the Mini-0860 will fit behind the mirror so it's centered in the windshield and is not visible in the drivers view. It's actually small enough that even directly in front of the mirror, the Mini-0860 is not that obvious from outside the vehicle.


Thanks Swiss. Looks nice and snug. Let me know when you post the others. Ill go read up on the Mini
Thanks again.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I got my mini right behind the mirror so not seen at all in cabin










Took pic a bit lower so you could see the bottom of the cam









On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ ReTTrofit - Yep, exactly! 

@ CarloSalt - While the Blackvue DR3500 does offer dual channel, a rear facing camera for a roadster doesn't really make much sense since sorting out a rear mount would be a major challenge! Even with the taxi-cams (they have a forward facing and rearward facing camera on the same body) getting it at the right height for when the top is up and/or down would be a hassle.

Note: the Amacam AM-M86 I listed from Amazon.co.uk is the same camera as the Mini-0860, it's just relabeled like so many of Chinese dash cams.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/BlackVue-DR3500 ... 00+Full+HD

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amacam-AM-M86-M ... G7TZR52R2Z


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Well I have taken the plunge. Ordered the BlackVue 650DW HD CH1 Cloud enabled. They are doing an offer at the moment whereby it includes the power management module. All for £199.99 including postage.

I will let you know how I get on.
- CARLO


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## AndyRT (Aug 20, 2015)

Thanks for this Andy. Mega useful.

Definitely going to be ordering one of these soon. Got to experience road rage first hand yesterday on the drive home. Literally in the middle between the car in front and the car behind. Pretty funny. It's probably about time to get one, will be returning to this thread for my own install.

ReTTro. Is there any chance you could post a shit of your car from the front? Would be interested to see how it looks from the front.

Andy.


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

AndyRT said:


> ReTTro. Is there any chance you could post a shit of your car from the front? Would be interested to see how it looks from the front.
> 
> Andy.


Errr ..... do you want to run this one through the spell checker one more time? :lol:


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

Haha..well spotted, nearly choked on my tea. :lol:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Umm...I'm not sure how this helps install a dash camera, but here you go.


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Looking in my manual a good fuse is the *** lighter or horn 30/23 both at 20A
Not sure for the switched live though. Any suggestions ?


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Umm...I'm not sure how this helps install a dash camera, but here you go.


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Pab (Jan 16, 2016)

CarloSalt said:


> Looking in my manual a good fuse is the *** lighter or horn 30/23 both at 20A
> Not sure for the switched live though. Any suggestions ?


My 2012 is different to my manual.... I stuck my Dashcam on what i believed to be the Switched for the Cig lighter (30 according to the book)... However it seems that isnt switched at all... The manual says 30 AND 38 is Cig lighter...!!

So i just got a meter out and found an unused one that was switched... can check as to which one if you want in the morning..???

Cheers
Paul


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

CarloSalt said:


> Looking in my manual a good fuse is the *** lighter or horn 30/23 both at 20A
> Not sure for the switched live though. Any suggestions ?


"*** lighter"...really?? You can call it that? That expression would have a very different meaning in the US! :lol:


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## Pab (Jan 16, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> CarloSalt said:
> 
> 
> > Looking in my manual a good fuse is the *** lighter or horn 30/23 both at 20A
> ...


Much like "Fanny Pack" does here in the UK


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I've just received my BlackVue camera together with the battery discharge protection device.

As supplied the two devices will be connected via a "*** lighter" type plug and socket. That's a bit clunky in my view so I'd like to replace them with a much smaller plug/socket or just join the wires on installation.

Before I do that can anyone confirm if the adaptor plug for the camera contains a voltage reducing circuit please? 
If so I'll just have to use the clunky bits, secure them together in some way and hide them under the dash.


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

I've had a similar issue with my tracker so I wired up a female "***-lighter" socket to receive the pre-wired plug and just hid it all away under the dash. Easiest solution also like you say you don't know what electronics may be inside the plug.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

ZephyR2 said:


> . . . . also like you say you don't know what electronics may be inside the plug.


I do now 

The nice chap at BlackVue called back: The voltage regulator bits are in the camera not the plug. Hence it's possible to cut the plug and socket off their respective cables - subject to the expected loss of warranty on the camera power cable (but not the camera) and the battery discharge protection device.


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

One thing to remember when connecting the camera up using the fuse piggy back leads.
The piggy backs are usually 10A or 15A rated. So I would imagine you can't use the lead on any fuse greater than this. So no using the 30A *** fuse.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

A piggy back fuse should be used on a higher amp fuse than what your wanting to draw 
That's the idea of the piggy back, it has two fuse sockets, one for the original device and one for the one your adding

If you connect your camera with let's say a 10amp fuse onto a circuit that's 5amp then the 10amp is a waist of time as 5amp will blow first

Add a 10amp piggy back onto a 20amp circuit then both devices are correctly rated

On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

CarloSalt said:


> One thing to remember when connecting the camera up using the fuse piggy back leads.
> The piggy backs are usually 10A or 15A rated. So I would imagine you can't use the lead on any fuse greater than this. So no using the 30A *** fuse.


Disagree, should be the other way

On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

ReTTro fit said:


> A piggy back fuse should be used on a higher amp fuse than what your wanting to draw
> That's the idea of the piggy back, it has two fuse sockets, one for the original device and one for the one your adding


Agree



ReTTro fit said:


> If you connect your camera with let's say a 10amp fuse onto a circuit that's 5amp then the 10amp is a waist of time as 5amp will blow first


Disagree. As you said above the piggy back retains the original fused supply (5A) and creates an additional, separately fused, supply (10A). Each fuse will protect only the circuit it serves so a short on the camera lead would pull enough current to blow the 10A fuse while the 5A one would remain intact.

The issue with connecting to a circuit fused at 5A is that the wire supplying that fuse-way is sized for the expected current. Adding the piggy back uses up some (all?) of the contingency in the supply wire size/rating.

There always seem to be empty fuse-ways so one of them may be suitable. Some/all of these fuse-ways have a supply terminal only but a piggy back connector can still be used and it then needs just the one fuse in it.

There are repair wires available to add the missing 'output' terminal to unused fuse-ways which would give an OEM look to additional supplies. 
Somone else has done the leg work for part nos for the Golf etc but the wires should be the same:
http://www.my-gti.com/601/addition-of-e ... t-fuse-box


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

I got a headache. A piggy back spade connector must be capable of taking the original fuse and the new. So if you stick it in a 30A socket with a 5A rated camera fuse then it must be rated at least 35A (the spades). The cable attached to the piggy back is protected by the new 5A fuse. The piggy back normally has 16awg wire which will take about 35A before getting hot. The supplied inline fuse on the camera protects the camera and its cable.

My point was, Its best not to use a 30A existing fuse to piggyback. Use a lower one but not on a sensitive circuit
Think thats what you guys are saying and what I was trying to say.


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## chaznik (Mar 27, 2011)

Would this work with other models you reckon?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/291517377396


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## chaznik (Mar 27, 2011)

And looking at this cam...I like the fact it fits flush to the screen. You don't need to use the longer piece to hide wires unless you want to.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272071918567


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Sorry for tagging on to your thread AndyOB but it seemed the right place to put this.

Just installed my BlackVue after playing with it for a few days in home. I think the pics below shows it all. Used spare fuse ways as shown so no piggy backs needed. Both are fitted with 5A mini's. I preferred the camera as high as possible so no lead was visible and from the outside its even more hidden. I found it was tight cramming all the plugs, sockets, wire and control box in. Will have a better look over the weekend. Image looks great in that position, will upload a sample some time. The wifi is pretty strong I can connect to it from in home. Think I might tell the wifi to turn off after 10mins (save power and that blue light) Set timer to 6 hours and 12.0V.


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

As good as these dash cams are and as well fitted as possible. ..I have to say they're bloody ugly things in the windscreen. Surely technology these days have something more discrete ??
No disrespect to anyone who's fitted them but I just couldn't be doing with the bulk in my windscreen.


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Templar said:


> As good as these dash cams are and as well fitted as possible. ..I have to say they're bloody ugly things in the windscreen. Surely technology these days have something more discrete ??
> No disrespect to anyone who's fitted them but I just couldn't be doing with the bulk in my windscreen.


No problem. I agree. If over the next few weeks I think it stands out then it will be relegated to the other car. Sorta pleased so far. better than it looks in the pics. Im more worried about its looks from the outside.

CARLO


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

CarloSalt said:


> Templar said:
> 
> 
> > As good as these dash cams are and as well fitted as possible. ..I have to say they're bloody ugly things in the windscreen. Surely technology these days have something more discrete ??
> ...


One of the better installs I have to say.....wondering when these systems will started being offered as OE equipment by manufacturers.


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

First use today and had these issues/suggestions

Wifi indicator on end is lit up like a christmas tree alerting thieves - I turned wifi off so its only manually turned on and off using the side button.

G-shock sensor gets activated while driving along over the bumps what with the hard suspension - I need to keep tweaking the settings without dulling it down. Also turned of the G-Shock alarm drives you nuts when driving. Its like your misses bollocking you every time you go over a pot hole.

Movement sensor triggers on birds and basically anything that moves. Loads of files especially when parked facing out - Just have to put up with trolling through loads of files.

Turned off the lighthouse beacon on the front. Other drivers think its the police coming.

Its great for keeping its eye on your mates cars at work if you park facing them.

The high position I chose seems great.

Will see how it goes. Hopefully once I got it all set up to my liking I can just forget it. I am a bit concerned that it gives thieves a reason to break in to the Roadster. May get left with the dilemma of taking it out if left in a dodgy area over night. Not that I ever do that because I would take Thunderbird 2. Oh I will stick some video up to youtube next weekend.


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## AndyOB (Jul 10, 2015)

Looks good Carlo  I agree the sensors are very sensitive. I parked in front of some bushes at work and because it was a windy day the camera was recording this bush for the whole day! Not the most interesting footage


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Thanks Andy. I set the motion sensitivity to its lowest which is better but it still records everything. I suppose its better to see it all than none. Tweaked the G sensor as well to stop it triggering on every pot hole. Pretty happy with it all now. Happy with my camera location too. Cant see it from outside.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## missile (Jul 18, 2011)

Very neat install, thanks for sharing.


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## BMTTS (Jan 29, 2016)

I actually had two spare fuse slots when I hard wired my satnav today next to the 40 amp fuse. They were ignition live only.

Also can anyone tell me why the cigar lighter is permanent 12v? as my cigar lighter goes off with the ignition? was a little confused over that :? There must be another device somewhere?


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

Removed


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## rajanm1 (Feb 1, 2014)

I've put my 2 dashcams back to back in between the headrests on the roadster. Can't see them easily at all but they can see everything in front and behind!


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

rajanm1 said:


> I've put my 2 dashcams back to back in between the headrests on the roadster. Can't see them easily at all but they can see everything in front and behind!


Will have to show us some footage mate :wink:


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## missile (Jul 18, 2011)

Do they restrict rear view ?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I had to delay fitting my Blackvue due to a damaged windscreen. All I was able to do was fit the rear camera and run the cable part way. The new screen was fitted yesterday so I was able to finish the install today.

I tried fitting the front camera upside down in my other car but found it a bit frustrating when viewing the files. Hence I re-mounted that camera the right way up and the one in the TT is the same. It just fits above the mirror.


I used the Power Magic Pro device so that the camera would also work while parked but not drain the battery too much. Usefully, that unit has a switch so I can choose 'parking mode' or have the camera switch off with the ignition. Because of that I wanted the unit to be accessible but hidden and I put it in the glove box. 


To make any future glove box removal easy I fitted a 5 pin plug/socket in the cable and fed that across to the driver side lower dash area, behind the fuse box. 


I had previously used a piggy back fuse to supply an exhaust flap mod but I'm not a fan of them. There are a number of fuse positions which have a supply wire but no connector on the load side. I bought some repair wires and fitted them in the vacant positions. That involved removing all the fuses, undoing the fuse box bolts, releasing the pink pin lock, pushing the new pins in and reassembling. I fitted 5 new pins: 2 for the camera, 1 to replace the existing piggy back and 2 spares. 
Before: the loose black cable is the camera power feed hanging out from the A pillar trim.


After: spot the new fuses.


The final job was to remind myself which fuse fed what:


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Re dash cams, what's the consensus re with or without GPS?

The intention of GPS is to be able to pinpoint an incident but are GPS positioners accurate to less than a metre? Isn't the footage adequate when identifying an incident?

In other words, is it worth paying the extra for a dash cam with GPS or not necessary?


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## CarloSalt (Aug 9, 2015)

moro anis said:


> Re dash cams, what's the consensus re with or without GPS?
> 
> The intention of GPS is to be able to pinpoint an incident but are GPS positioners accurate to less than a metre? Isn't the footage adequate when identifying an incident?
> 
> In other words, is it worth paying the extra for a dash cam with GPS or not necessary?


Not really needed. more of a nice to have.


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## benbuhagiar (Mar 16, 2013)

I'm looking to buy a blackvue dashcam. Can see that many owners have fitted to coupe's but anyone fitted it to a roadster?

Would only be after a front facing camera. Anyone got a build thread for a roadster?

Thanks


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## missile (Jul 18, 2011)

benbuhagiar said:


> I'm looking to buy a blackvue dashcam. Can see that many owners have fitted to coupe's but anyone fitted it to a roadster?
> 
> Would only be after a front facing camera. Anyone got a build thread for a roadster?
> 
> Thanks


Front only dash cam installation in a roadster would be exactly the same to fit as in the coupe.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ benbuhagiar - The challenge with a dual channel dash cam (fore & aft view) for a roadster is where to put it.

I thought about this too and you would have to place the camera rather low, probably below the mirror level, in order to see aft given how low our rear windows are positioned. And the dash-cam has to be low enough that it can see through the rear glass when the top is up - which is already a problem because the glass is so small and the camera is so far away, that the field of view is quite restricted. While that might actually work, the problem then is having to mount the camera so low on the windshield, it's less discrete.

I have the Mini-0806 and given how inexpensive they are (especially the older models) I considered installing two; one up high in the windshield facing forward, and a second one somewhere behind the drivers position facing aft. This could probably be done with the dual cameras like the BlackVue models depending on how long the wires are, because even if it has Bluetooth, you still have to get power to it - so there's no true 'wireless' option. Obviously with a taxi-cam style, this wouldn't be possible at all since both fore and aft lenses are in the main body.

Some thoughts with a second rear mounted camera...

Mounting on top of the wind deflector - You can raise the deflector to see out the rear when the top is up and lower it when the top is down so it's well positioned for a good field of view with the top up or down. It's easy to center, remains close to the rear glass so the view would be reasonably good even when the top is up. But the wiring and mounting - that would be a bit of a challenge.

Mounting it to the back of one of the headrests - You just have to be sure the alignment is such that it can see out the back when the top is up. The down-side is it's going to end up well off center and hiding the wiring would be a pain.

Mount it externally - Like a reverse-camera set up at the rear license plate. The problem there is finding a camera that can handle exposure to the elements, and ending up with a rather limited view (since it's so low) and of course the wiring.

Mount it under the spoiler - Very James Bond 007-ish, but the challenges there are obvious.

So yeah - a dual camera set up on the roadsters does pose some unique issues. It's not impossible, just a bit more challenging.


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

One of the problems that I have found with dash-cams is the distance that the lens is from the glass. The further it is away, the more likely the camera is to pick up reflections from within the car and thus reduce the clarity/contrast of the image. The unit shown seems to be quite good as the lens is relatively near the glass but even this would be enhanced by a circular polarising filter, if it can be fitted.

For my part, I bought a cheap (£15) Chinese dash-cam* that has a sucker mount This was OK in my wife's car and in my Puma, as, again it was close to the glass. However the rake of the TT windscreen keeps it away from the glass and now I need to fit a polarising filter, and finding one is not easy.

To state the obvious, ensure that the dash-cam is in a swept area but behind the mirror so it does not fall foul of the MOT regulations.

One of my jobs was investigating accidents for insurance companies. We must be realistic: the main use of the camera is for *defensive *evidence. You would be foolish to reveal that the accident had been videoed until having fully considered what it shows. (I remember being shown one in which the defendant was clearly to blame, but the idiot insisted on showing it as part of his defence.  )

As a caveat, I would advise against using camera functions that show your speed. If the video is used in evidence, and, let's say, you are doing 35 in a 30mph area, the court will always decided that you must bear some degree of blame, and if you were at fault, your penalty/liability will be increased. There is the possibility that the progress of the video can give an indication of your speed anyway, but a defence lawyer would argue that (a) the video frame rate is not sufficiently accurate for this to be done, (b) the unit was not intended to measure speed. Obviously if you're clearly going ridiculously fast, a court will draw the only possible conclusion...

The motion sensor is of limited value. It is only going to show the ahead view - this is fine if someone reverses into your front. In all other cases, there's not going to be any worthwhile evidence. Early motion sensors could be a bit sensitive too, and often were arranged to video 30 seconds or so from the time the camera was set off and then save the clip and end the video. If you go over a decent pothole - this is a possibility - this results in 30 seconds after the pothole, followed by a blank video. Check this does not happen on yours.

*(It is entirely adequate for evidential purposes and the cable is easily trapped/hidden in the headlining and A pillar trim.)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ GaryG - Good point about the polarized lens. The Mini0806 can be fitted with a 24mm. I have one on mine and even though it is held in place magnetically, it's a bit fiddly and is best glued in place with a dab of silicon sealant once you have it in place. I suspect it can be retrofitted to many other cameras too. Check out the Amazon link below...it might fit yours.

I agree with you also on your point about the motion detection. It's a bit pointless as it won't 'see' anyone on the side of your car and as we all know, no one ever breaks into your car through the windshield. The dash cams are great on the road, but if you want real surveillance, park in a well lit area that has proper surveillance cameras to keep an eye on things.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ilov-Circular- ... Camera+Dvr


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ GaryG - Good point about the polarized lens. The Mini0806 can be fitted with a 24mm. Check out the Amazon link below...it might fit yours.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ilov-Circular- ... Camera+Dvr


Thanks. I'll measure my lens in the morning.


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

The lens is 22.5mm - it will fit with a small adaptation.


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## HubertK (Mar 30, 2015)

Just a quick question, I've had my dash cam for ages and this thread made me try to attempt to hardwire it as I don't really like having my cig light taken up by a chunky charger.

I have attempted to piggy back into fuse number 38 which is the ciggarate lighter but the camera was turning on even when the key wasn't inside the ignition. I don't understand how because the ciggarate lighter is not live when the car is turned off.

Second attempt was into a free space without a fuse which is number 30 labeled as 20A cigarette lighter again, this has worked and the camera comes on as soon as I turn the car on. I am happy to keep it this way but now I'm wondering if I should only be using one 5A fuse as this was a free sapace before the instalation or should I also insert a 20A fuse.



















I've used two fuses in my piggy back 20A and 5A.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

5 amp is fine for your camera

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lewis.coleman.33 (Jan 8, 2017)

Im looking to do this on my Mrs TT over the weekend,

Can anyone help with a link on ebay of the correct piggy back fuses i need?

Many thanks.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

lewis.coleman.33 said:


> Im looking to do this on my Mrs TT over the weekend,
> Can anyone help with a link on ebay of the correct piggy back fuses i need?
> Many thanks.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-Add-a-Circ ... Sw44BYXfG3

Hoggy.


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## lewis.coleman.33 (Jan 8, 2017)

Hoggy said:


> lewis.coleman.33 said:
> 
> 
> > Im looking to do this on my Mrs TT over the weekend,
> ...


Brilliant thank you for that  has anyone got a definite answer on what fuse locations to use? For permanent feed and switched feed?


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