# HOWTO: Replacement xenon projectors 2019 (bi-xenon upgrade)



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Decided to start a new thread on this rather than continuing on one of the excellent related threads.

As a fact of life, our TTs' lights have faded with some of them approaching 19 years old. This is due to either very worn and faded plastic lenses (the outside glass), fortunately replacement glasses are available from bimmerjakes as detailed in this thread, or due to the xenon projectors (the actual unit inside the headlight) becoming faded and needing replacement.

*It is also a serious safety issue.*

Buying used headlights wont help as they will most probably suffer from the same problem and a new one from Audi costs upwards of £1000, best decent aftermarket I've found is about 800eur each (made by Marelli).

Replacement of the TT xenon projector will give the added benefit of a bi-xenon conversion, meaning your high beam will flood the road with xenon light as the cutoff line of your low beam will be bypassed when hi beam is activated. High beam bulb continues to work, as in eg flashing.

Researching on the matter, here are the options we have:
*1) *Get a *chinese synolyn *unit and install it with some hacking and slashing. Excellent guide with pictures from desertstorm here
*PROS: *Cheap, about $60 or less, continue to use existing D2S bulbs.
*CONS: *Need to hack into headlight to fit, horizontal position may not be 100% correct as the replacement unit cannot be installed accurately.

*2) **Replacement with Morimoto mini H1 unit *with adaptors. This should be more accurate install as the mini H1 unit is quite compact, basically depends on how well the adaptor is made. Many places sell these, primarily in America as well as some places in UK, eg emtuning.co.uk
*PROS: *More accurate than method 1, no cutting into headlight.
*CONS: *Expensive. With shipping these can go upwards of £150-200. Many places don't/won't sell the adaptor brackets alone so its either a DIY job or buy from them as a kit. You need also new mini H1 bulbs as D2S wont fit anymore and adapter cables from D2S->mini H1 as a minimum.
*WHERE FROM:*
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/
https://www.lightwerkz.net/
https://www.retrofitlab.com/ (also has eu shop in the netherlands)
http://www.emtuning.co.uk

*3) Lens resilvering* This is basically removing the xenon projector, taking it apart and taking the plastic lens for resilvering, which is similar to the chroming process but for plastics. The process is called PVD and works by sticking aluminium flakes in the plastic in a vacuum machine. This is how they are made in the factory. Although simple, I havent heard of anyone in the forum have it done. I've found a place local to me in Athens who will do it for about 40eur and plan to take my old lenses there but I would prefer the bi-xenon effect and high light output of a new projector unit.

*For reference*, this is the TT xenon projector. It has a 2.5 inch lens. Left and right are a mirror image of each other.
















http://www.oemxenonshop.com/Bosch-E46-Projectors-Xenon.html
Compared to others in the market its a relatively rare unit. It is made by AL / Bosch and the exact same projector exists in Mazda 6 (2002-2007) and BMW E46 with single xenon, not made by ZKW (this has mostly added to the confusion searching online because there are so many different lights in BMW E46s).

(post in progress)


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I am now on a quest to find a good xenon projector that will fit directly, will be D2S as I have 3 sets of these bulbs (4 with the ones in the car) and not cost an arm and a leg. Is it too much to ask? :roll:

Searching online for the TT yields no good results as most of the sites are in America and biased towards American car models. However I was lucky searching for Mazda 6 projector.

This is the projector base from the TT, circled where original projector screws into (image courtesy of desertstorm)









This is the Mazda base, the similarity to house the same projector unit is obvious.








Mazda build thread here


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## miTTzee (Dec 8, 2015)

HideHi - has anyone thought of using a 3D printer if you could get a suitable template
for the plastic bit you need?


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## TTorBust (Mar 8, 2018)

Sounds an awful lot of work and may fail an MOT at the end of it all. I've seen good headlights go for a £100 a unit on ebay. Also, there's a buy who advertises reconditioned TT headlights (can also fit them in a professional garage in Manchester) again on ebay


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

The Mazda lens looks quite wide and bulky compared to the item I used. It has 4 main mountings that are the same width at the top and bottom. The OE setup mounts is on 3 points so I think you would be hacking the reflector to remove one of the mounting points. Assuming you could actually fit it in.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

TTorBust said:


> Sounds an awful lot of work and may fail an MOT at the end of it all.


Fail for what?

The car came with OEM HIDs complete with washers & self-levelling.
The car still has HIDs complete with washers & self-levelling.

Just new replacement projector units.
A long as it is lined up properly (which is easy with the Morimoto kit & bracket) then there is no issue.
Mine passed its MOT with them this year. The only difference was that in previous years they commented that the output was very poor. They didn't say that this year!! 8)


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## stevebratt (Feb 17, 2019)

I believe main beams dont really matter in an mot as long as they work, doesnt really matter what they are, could be old news though.

I once put audi TT projectors into my mk2 golf rallye headlights, there was another guy who had done it in asimilar way but with biXeons, they must have fitted in a similar way, ill see if i can dig out the details it was a long time ago


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I have been exchanging emails with the guys at retrofitlab and they have a solution, more or less plug and play, without cutting of the headlight internals. Pricey though at 150eur, they are in the netherlands, not usa. This is based on the mini H1 xenon bulb so no more D2S bulbs. They assured me the kit is a direct fit since they have tested it on a TT headlight at their office. It includes splicers for the high beam (bi-xenon effect) and mounting bracket.

https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/audi-tt- ... hts-2.html


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

Got the retrofitlab kit myself.

CUTTING REQUIRED!

Did not install them myself (yet), since my projectors were still in good shape and a good clean made them much better. Tried to mount the retrofitkit but found out you need to cut the projector mounting. I do have a pair of their retrofit LED high beam projects. Great piece of kit and fits directly, but decided not to use them on the TT as I couldn't decide if I liked the look. These have a nice DRL function but I already have custom DRL so no need for them. https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/aharon-l ... ector.html

I do have a set of them on another car, superb light output. Main difference is that the mini h1 directs the light more in front of the car whereas the stock D2S projectors spread the light more evenly. can't complain with the mini h1 however, since I never fel the need for high beams (but I do like the ridiculously high output on high beam).

Also retrofitted another car with a set of cheap china projectors. Can't tell on the durability however it seems to be hit and miss with getting good quality units. Personally I would only recommend cheap projectors in headlights that don't require cutting or a heat gun to open so removal is easy if they don't last long.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

The retrofitlab kit will be easier to fit than the item I used. It's a smaller 2.5 inch projector so more in line with the OE size and it comes with some brackets that probably cost pennies to make but will save you hacking stuff around. You still have to split the headlight and that in itself would probably stop a lot of people.
I notice the kit is 150 euros with the H1 bulbs but you can delete those and get it for 120 euros. You can pick up some H1 HID bulbs for a lot less than 30 euros. Will certainly give you a better main beam .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-hid-bix ... 3691744995?

This video shows how the mini H1 compares to the E46 type larger HID fitting. The H1 bulbs do not seem to put out as much light as a D2S bulb and the larger better quality optic on the E46 means brighter more concentrated light.
The item I fitted is similar to the E46 .




Personally If going for the H1 mini buy the kit without the bulbs for $120 then buy a 55W H1 HID kit. This should get you back upto the kind of output the E46 would get you but you would then have to do some wiring to wire in a new HID ballast.


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## GMTTmk1 (Oct 8, 2018)

I was eyeing these up, 
https://www.hids4u.co.uk/D2R-D2S-HIDS4U ... n-Kit.html
I came across them in the forums before somewhere, keen to see what works best! [smiley=book2.gif]


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

GMTTmk1 said:


> I was eyeing these up,
> https://www.hids4u.co.uk/D2R-D2S-HIDS4U ... n-Kit.html
> I came across them in the forums before somewhere, keen to see what works best! [smiley=book2.gif]


The issue is the reflector in the projector. That kit won't help with that.
I'm still using the OEM ballasts and igniters with the new projectors. No need to change those.


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## GMTTmk1 (Oct 8, 2018)

Aahh got you now, I'm guessing there's no easy way of repairing the reflector once it's been cooked for ~17 years apart from replacing it? Mine are working but dim to the point when I'm driving at night I reach for the switch to check I've put them on! (225 xenons)


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

GMTTmk1 said:


> Aahh got you now, I'm guessing there's no easy way of repairing the reflector once it's been cooked for ~17 years apart from replacing it? Mine are working but dim to the point when I'm driving at night I reach for the switch to check I've put them on! (225 xenons)


That is what mine were like. Driving at night was getting grim not being able to see anything.
One projector reflector was completely burned out, the other wasn't anywhere near as bad, but not great.

It is possible to refinish the original reflectors, but it is finding someone that will do it.

Replacing with new Bi-Xenon gives Main Beam a massive boost too, well worth it.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

This is a brilliant post, Mister Silkman. Well-researched. It makes me happy that you've discovered HIDPlanet, too - I've spent many hours reading those forums 

I'm doubly impressed about the Mazda projector! I didn't know that was a donor candidate...! 8) 8)

Subscribing for interestingness 

/Al


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Let's see how this goes, still undecided myself. Probably not going the mini H1 route though if they output less light than OEM as people have said (new OEM, not burned OEM lol).

Fitting a 55W bulb kit in the same old projector would only help to accelerate its deterioration IMO.

This is the Mazda projector we've been talking about. Probably too big to fit, unless you cut one of the corners and even then it may not fit through the "hole".
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 1da3WI6OHk

And another 2.5" projector that unfortunately has only 2 holes in the back for mounting.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 7991b39Ukr

Search continues.

Found this company in Germany who do resilvering, 40eur each reflector by post. For 200eur they send new recoated ones and refund 100 when you send your old ones back, so 100.
https://www.reflektorklinik.de/neuverspiegelung-1

Another one who does it by mail order, from 25eur each plus 10 shipping.
https://www.refoptik.de/

It could be tempting by someone who have already changed their projectors to try it.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

If you can get enough people to buy in then you might be able to get Trups to do a group deal and make his offering cheaper.
He has run them on ASN but it's usually a problem to get to 10 people to commit at the same time.
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/8 ... 433/page-2


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I have contacted the second company (in Germany) and they will resilver both TT projector mirrors for 50eur+10eur shipping
https://www.refoptik.de/

The end result should be fine as this is what these guys do. Its filling out a form, paying by bank transfer and sending the form+projectors to them. Unfortunately they don't do an exchange service which the other company does but at a higher price.

I think I will go that route, even though theres a resilvering company local to me in Athens. This restores 100% the headlights and obviously no problem with the MOT as the TT stays OEM.

If we had a spare set of old projectors we could do a chain repair as forum users and avoid the downtime of having the TT out while waiting for projectors to arrive. Receive the repaired reflectors and send out your old ones for the next guy/gal :idea:

[smiley=gossip.gif]


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

It's the splitting of my headlight that puts me off

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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

HOGG said:


> It's the splitting of my headlight that puts me off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Really really really REALLY easy - pop the clips off then pop into an oven on 75C heat (on a wooden chopping board) for an hour. Take out with oven gloves on and pull the lens off the body.

Get a roll of butyl windscreen sealant and use a thin bead when smooshing it back together to ensure a water-tight seal. Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, in that you should pop the lens onto the body and then pop it all in the oven to soften up, and after an hour, press it all back together.

You can use a bungee strap, elasticated bandage from Boots, or similar, while it's in the oven to pull the lens tightly back against the body.

Good luck! 8)


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

You don't need to put in for an hour? . I have done this a few times with different headlight and 10-15 minutes tops is more than enough. That's in a pre heated oven on the lowest setting. Make sure you have some decent clean gloves to handle the headlight when it comes out.
I use this stuff, You can stretch it easily to make it as thin as you want.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BUTYL-SNAKE- ... 2706251076?


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

I just used a heat gun. (heat the housing, not the clear lens!)
The TT headlights are super easy to disassemble, they use butyl which can be re-used for sealing them.

In short:
Butyl = easy, heatgun usable
Permaseal = hard, must use oven


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

So I was driving home through Hollingbourne the other night, couldn't see a thing. Thought it was either my eyes, or dirty headlights. Turns out this is quite a common thing then in this age of a TT. I was going to buy some Osram's but hesitant to do so if it is the reflector that is buggered.

I haven't got the time to take my headlights off, take the reflectors out and then send them off, is there not anywhere I could buy some? Considering buying 2nd hand lights, just to night the reflectors to then swap mine over or to use the exchange service. This seems like the best option for me, I wonder if enough of us need this done we can look at doing some kind of group buy.

I need to polish my lights, which i will probably do tomorrow, but the beams are weak as anything and I am sure it is the reflector. There is weird pitting/marks on the inside of the headlight as well, so I'm wondering if I bite the bullet on whole new ones


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

mike-kilo said:


> So I was driving home through Hollingbourne the other night, couldn't see a thing. Thought it was either my eyes, or dirty headlights. Turns out this is quite a common thing then in this age of a TT. I was going to buy some Osram's but hesitant to do so if it is the reflector that is buggered.
> 
> I haven't got the time to take my headlights off, take the reflectors out and then send them off, is there not anywhere I could buy some? Considering buying 2nd hand lights, just to night the reflectors to then swap mine over or to use the exchange service. This seems like the best option for me, I wonder if enough of us need this done we can look at doing some kind of group buy.
> 
> I need to polish my lights, which i will probably do tomorrow, but the beams are weak as anything and I am sure it is the reflector. There is weird pitting/marks on the inside of the headlight as well, so I'm wondering if I bite the bullet on whole new ones


The first company (reflektorklinik.de) offered a 15% discount if we can send them 10 sets, no exchange service however. Didn't mention it before as the discount wasn't anything spectacular. I still believe the best course of action would be to find a couple of used projectors and use these to start a chain repair among us, meaning you send out the first set and when you receive the new set, send your old ones for the next member.

Also confirmed that the reflectors are exactly the same for LHD and RHD.


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## thomp1983 (Nov 5, 2016)

It'd be I interesting to see if the resilvering process works well. Given there's 3 of us on here that went for the sinolyn projector method and are all more than happy with the outcome then I'd suggest that as the way to go, it's really not difficult to fit them it just seems daunting at first.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

thomp1983 said:


> It'd be I interesting to see if the resilvering process works well. Given there's 3 of us on here that went for the sinolyn projector method and are all more than happy with the outcome then I'd suggest that as the way to go, it's really not difficult to fit them it just seems daunting at first.


+1 agree - just my 2p-worth as always though (-:


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

silkman said:


> mike-kilo said:
> 
> 
> > So I was driving home through Hollingbourne the other night, couldn't see a thing. Thought it was either my eyes, or dirty headlights. Turns out this is quite a common thing then in this age of a TT. I was going to buy some Osram's but hesitant to do so if it is the reflector that is buggered.
> ...


I'd be down for that, I need to do something, its got really bad. Putting in new bulbs but I need to get a new igniter I think as well, so will look at the exchange program, its not the hardest to do.


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

So i replaced the bulbs all round today - bar the fogs, I couldn't work out how to get the old ones out! I'll do them tomorrow anyway.

What I did find in there was the reflectors for the d2S bulbs to basically be brown. Like someone had melted caramel inside of them, looks like heat has totally ruined them over the years.

I found a guy on ebay who sells whole lights for £175 each £350 a pair and the reflectors for £50 right side, £85 for left side.

So £135 is all it would cost to replace them - bar getting the bumper off and the lights split, but might as well do it for £135 and then flog the old ones on ebay or here for whatever they are worth I guess.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

mike-kilo said:


> So i replaced the bulbs all round today - bar the fogs, I couldn't work out how to get the old ones out! I'll do them tomorrow anyway.
> 
> What I did find in there was the reflectors for the d2S bulbs to basically be brown. Like someone had melted caramel inside of them, looks like heat has totally ruined them over the years.
> 
> ...


If you are just going to replace the reflectors in the original projectors, you can take the OEM projectors out without splitting the headlight.
So should be quite an easy job.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I'm up for a group buy thing if I don't have to split lights

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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

I'm really tempted to give http://www.refoptik.de a try. Looks like a good deal since (re)fitting OEM projectors is easy.
In the summer my TT will be off the road for a few weeks to do some major maintenance, might as well redo the projectors then.

If I do, I'll let you all know with before and after pics :wink:


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Please do. I need a full write up and detailed instructions

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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

HOGG said:


> I need a full write up and detailed instructions


That's a bit demanding! :mrgreen:


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

David C said:


> mike-kilo said:
> 
> 
> > So i replaced the bulbs all round today - bar the fogs, I couldn't work out how to get the old ones out! I'll do them tomorrow anyway.
> ...


Can you do it without removing the headlights at all? Getting the bumper off is the pain, got no ramp or place to do it really.


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

If there was a way to downgrade the Xenon headlight units to accept Halogen units, then this up/sidegrade would be doable and cost effective.
http://www.xtralights.com/99-audi-tt-hi ... black-pair

I've seen lots of replacement options for the Halogen units, but none for the Xenon units, and my Xenons are getting 'long in the tooth' as well.

Any possibility that someone can retrofit an LED unit into the Xenon housings?


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

mike-kilo said:


> Can you do it without removing the headlights at all? Getting the bumper off is the pain, got no ramp or place to do it really.


I suppose you could remove everythting else in the engine bay for access :lol:

In short no, just remove the headlights. It isn't that big of a job.
Didn't use a ramp for mine, first time took me about 1hr on the driveway.

*As to halogen/LED*: the problem is the coating of the projectors wears off. No type of bulb can fix this.
LED projector retrofit might be an options, those are available as well but different dimensions and you have to fab your own bracket (retrofitlab comes with a bracket).


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

Excellent I will get the reflectors and then sort out a place to do it

Thanks buddy


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

> *As to halogen/LED*: the problem is the coating of the projectors wears off. No type of bulb can fix this.
> LED projector retrofit might be an options, those are available as well but different dimensions and you have to fab your own bracket (retrofitlab comes with a bracket).


Retro fitting can be a fabrication problem, true. With the link I'm thinking beyond the retrofit, but replacing the whole headlight unit with the LED projector replacement as supplied in the link. US$500 for a set is a lot less that Audi/OEM supplier replacement Xenon units for similar light output. Pretty much a 20 year newer technology. The trick would be the electricals and wiring harness connectors. Will have to check if there is a sub-harness on the main wiring harness that could be replaced just for the headlights. Any other suggestions are welcome.


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

US$500 is a LOT more than a retrofitkit from retrofitlab (or other sources)... I'm prettry sure the LED headlights are a direct swap since the TT's xenon stuff is located inside the headlights, so I would assume the connectors from headlight to car are the same for halogen and xenon.

If you like the design then why not, but personally I would use the retrofitkit for half the cost.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

LED projectors are still noticeably less-bright than HID; roughly 2500 lumens for the industry-standard Toyota Prius projectors, vs 3600 lumens for a 35w HID lamp.

If I had the money, though, I would mount two LED projectors in each headlight - one replacing the high beam reflector - which would be rather bright...!


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

I know what you are saying, but I need to replace my lenses in the headlights as well, and those are getting unobtainable as replacement parts... so more cost effective to replace the whole light unit. Unfortunately, my ballasts are mounted outside of the light units so I'll need to go through both Halogen and Xenon wiring diagrams to look for differences so the car or the wiring harness doesn't go up in flames or short something out if I miss something.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

OK so bit the bullet and bought yesterday the exchange service from the first company (reflektorklinik). Pricey at 200eur +9.90 shipping -100 deposit for my old ones. I know its expensive but don't have the luxury of waiting for my own to get repaired and also post from Germany is ridiculously slow to Greece as packages get sent by truck and travel around Europe with 8+ depots in between :roll:

I have most of the parts ready because I will also be doing some modding and will update when I receive the reflectors...


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## mike-kilo (Feb 10, 2017)

I'll be interested to see what results you get, could you document this as you do it please? Would love to see it before during and after!


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

For your interest and curiosity...
While looking for headlight stuff for the Mk.1 TT, I ran across a Chinese company that makes replacement TT headlight lenses AND Xenon reflectors. The English is not the best, but it is understandable. No costs published, but they will quote by e-mail fairly quick and ship worldwide quickly as well (so they state).
http://www.headlight-headlamp.com/Audi- ... epair.html

They are also selling Lazer LED upgrade kits - supposedly the new and upcoming technology (Bi-LED Laser Light Projector).
http://www.headlight-headlamp.com/Halog ... light.html

Wondering if that would be a source to try for those of you looking for replacement Xenon reflectors?


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Watching this thread with interest, especially the resilvering of the reflectors. I may bite the bullet soon with that German resilvering service, I want a simple original plug and play solution without chopping up headlamps or faffing with wiring. The HID in my 3.2 are pretty dim and will need sorting eventually.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

JoeKan said:


> For your interest and curiosity...
> While looking for headlight stuff for the Mk.1 TT, I ran across a Chinese company that makes replacement TT headlight lenses AND Xenon reflectors. The English is not the best, but it is understandable. No costs published, but they will quote by e-mail fairly quick and ship worldwide quickly as well (so they state).
> http://www.headlight-headlamp.com/Audi- ... epair.html


Yes I found them here when looking into it for mine:
http://www.oemxenonshop.com/Bosch-E46-P ... Xenon.html

But the 2010 date at the bottom didn't inspire confidence.
The Bi-Xenon ability of new projectors was also appealing.


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

That's the copyright date for their web site. I think that's when they first started marketing on the internet - web master issue. Multiple marketing names. Interesting cross reference.

I'll have to wait until fall (give my car budget some time to improve). I'll buy a couple of used headlight cases and maybe give the lens and reflectors a try.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Received the replacement reflectors today from reflektorklinik.de. Packaging would probably survive a nuclear blast.














































They look great. Now on to fit them, probably beginning next week.

Insurance still haven't sorted the broken rear window :roll: :x
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 5#p9144105


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Shiny - looks like a very high-quality job!

Any chance you could do just one headlight initially, then take some comparison pics, so we can get an idea of how much of an improvement the re-silvering gives? 

/Al


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

JoeKan said:


> For your interest and curiosity...
> While looking for headlight stuff for the Mk.1 TT, I ran across a Chinese company that makes replacement TT headlight lenses AND Xenon reflectors. The English is not the best, but it is understandable. No costs published, but they will quote by e-mail fairly quick and ship worldwide quickly as well (so they state).
> http://www.headlight-headlamp.com/Audi- ... epair.html


So with these Xenon reflectors, no need to split the headlamp glass ? Has anyone here tried them ? I've asked them to give me a price.


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

You'll need to separate your lens from the black headlight unit to replace the reflector. That's why I thought I'd try the reflector and their lens at the same time. By the looks of it, they also sell the butyl bonding material. I know Audi had a coating on their lens. For these, PPF film would do the job if they come uncoated.

Let us know what they quote. Thanks.


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

These are looking great, and this thread is very helpful. I need to wet sand/polish my lenses to start, but knowing about the options on the reflector/projector side is great.

Does it makes sense that my lights get brighter after running a bit? As if they are warming up and getting brighter. I've not driven much at night, but at first things seem dim, and then much better. At first I thought I was going nuts, but now wondering....


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

torqueit said:


> Does it makes sense that my lights get brighter after running a bit?


Car HID ballasts should get the bulb up to full output in no more than 30 seconds for cheap Chinese knock-off bulbs with poor-quality halide salts. OEM should be at full brightness within ten secs even on the coldest starts.

You might need to invest in a simple light meter (one that measures lux - the kind that photographers use) and measure the brightness at a fixed point and distance from the headlight. I generally use 3 metres or 10 feet from the headlight, at the point where the beam cut-off angles upwards for the "flick", e.g.:










Try measuring when starting from cold at 0 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 etc - or record a video of the light meter if it's easier.

I have a light meter kicking around here somewhere and could do the same experiment here if it helps to have some comparative data 

/Al


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

alexgreyhead said:


> torqueit said:
> 
> 
> > Does it makes sense that my lights get brighter after running a bit?
> ...


This is all helpful and makes sense - thanks! Being a bit of a photo bug, I've got some old hand held light meters around here, so this should be easy enough. The fellow I bought the car from did tell me that occasionally the right hand light wouldn't come on at first, and if he turned them off/on again, it would always come up. I figure that sounds like a ballast issue, and my hunch is it all ties together. Hand writing is probably on the proverbial wall here, and probably shouldn't put things off too much. Sudden failure imminent? Why do I feel my wallet getting lighter?!


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

torqueit said:


> This is all helpful and makes sense - thanks! Being a bit of a photo bug, I've got some old hand held light meters around here, so this should be easy enough. The fellow I bought the car from did tell me that occasionally the right hand light wouldn't come on at first, and if he turned them off/on again, it would always come up. I figure that sounds like a ballast issue, and my hung is it all ties together. Hand writing is probably on the proverbial wall here, and probably shouldn't put things off too much. Sudden failure imminent? Why do I feel my wallet getting lighter?!


Could be a ballast, but if the bulb tends to stay lit once ignited, then the problem might well be the ignitor. They're less-expensive to replace - I have a spare one here you can have for the cost of postage - although you can also replace the OEM ballast and ignitor with e.g. a Morimoto or Chinese Fastbright 55W ballast for a quarter of the cost; I've used Fastbrights in all three projects I've done in the last couple of years and while one (out of eight) failed, they're cheap enough to replace (just remember to mount them on the outside of the headlight so you can swap them out easily enough).

The pair of Morimotos I fitted to Mrs Alexgreyhead's Micra have worked without missing a beat in almost 4 years, too 

/Al


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

alexgreyhead said:


> torqueit said:
> 
> 
> > This is all helpful and makes sense - thanks! Being a bit of a photo bug, I've got some old hand held light meters around here, so this should be easy enough. The fellow I bought the car from did tell me that occasionally the right hand light wouldn't come on at first, and if he turned them off/on again, it would always come up. I figure that sounds like a ballast issue, and my hung is it all ties together. Hand writing is probably on the proverbial wall here, and probably shouldn't put things off too much. Sudden failure imminent? Why do I feel my wallet getting lighter?!
> ...


This is also good to know. First time with a system like this. And thank you very much for your kind offer! I will try to figure this out and will PM if in need.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

torqueit said:


> I will try to figure this out and will PM if in need.


Cool beans! Keep us posted 

/Al


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

JoeKan said:


> You'll need to separate your lens from the black headlight unit to replace the reflector. That's why I thought I'd try the reflector and their lens at the same time. By the looks of it, they also sell the butyl bonding material. I know Audi had a coating on their lens. For these, PPF film would do the job if they come uncoated.
> 
> Let us know what they quote. Thanks.


Thanks JoeKan
But I'm confused ! In Desertstorms thread, it looks like you can remove the old projector unit from the back of the headlamp & this has the reflector installed - why would you need to split the headlamp ?

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9075421


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

gerontius said:


> JoeKan said:
> 
> 
> > You'll need to separate your lens from the black headlight unit to replace the reflector. That's why I thought I'd try the reflector and their lens at the same time. By the looks of it, they also sell the butyl bonding material. I know Audi had a coating on their lens. For these, PPF film would do the job if they come uncoated.
> ...


You don't need to split the headlight to remove the original projector.
I removed the originals via the access panel at the back when I started to rebuild mine.
So if all you are doing is replacing the reflectors on the OEM projectors, you won't need to split the headlights.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I will be updating this thread and also post pictures and videos before and after. Currently my headlights are dim as a candle, especially the right one. However my main priority is to have the quarter rear glass replaced as my TT was broken into and stuff stolen last Saturday.

Idiots at the insurance wont accept me getting a used glass from ebay uk, there are no used ones in Athens atm and Audi don't have one locally available (need to wait for part to arrive from Germany) [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Not sure why the lens has to be removed when only replacing reflectors. Don't these bolt from the back of the headlight?


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

silkman said:


> Not sure why the lens has to be removed when only replacing reflectors. Don't these bolt from the back of the headlight?


:


David C said:


> You don't need to split the headlight to remove the original projector.
> I removed the originals via the access panel at the back when I started to rebuild mine.
> So if all you are doing is replacing the reflectors on the OEM projectors, you won't need to split the headlights.


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

Sorry for the error in my statement about splitting the headlight. I had in my head a total headlight teardown & rebuild. I figure if you're going in there, do it all at once and be done with it.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Work has started...


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

silkman said:


> Work has started...


Thought you were just changing the projector reflectors?

As you've opened it all the way, relocate the HID igniters. They are behind that long silver part at the bottom of the headlight.
Impossible to get to unless you go as far as you've gone.
Relocate them to inside the back cover. Will make replacing them if they fail a lot easier.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

silkman said:


> Work has started...


Keep those pics coming please Silkman !!


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## Nadim_m (Oct 21, 2013)

Looking good so far, my spare set of headlights are in a similar state of disassembly.

Sent my reflectors of to RefOptik, so can post some pics when they come back for comparison.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

My Bi-Xenons arrived from AliExpress last weekend. I had to pay a £12 VAT & handling charge, which I wasn't expecting.
Unfortunately, one of the projector lenses is cracked.
Currently trying to get them to send me a replacement but all they're offering me is a £12 refund or complete refund if I send both lights back. They can't seem to grasp that I want the cracked light replaced !


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

gerontius said:


> My Bi-Xenons arrived from AliExpress last weekend. I had to pay a £12 VAT & handling charge, which I wasn't expecting.
> Unfortunately, one of the projector lenses is cracked.
> Currently trying to get them to send me a replacement but all they're offering me is a £12 refund or complete refund if I send both lights back. They can't seem to grasp that I want the cracked light replaced !


Hello bud, what diameter lenses do you need?


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

alexgreyhead said:


> gerontius said:
> 
> 
> > My Bi-Xenons arrived from AliExpress last weekend. I had to pay a £12 VAT & handling charge, which I wasn't expecting.
> ...


Hi Alex, looks like 2.75 inches, see attached. Looks tricky to remove the lens without drilling out rivets though.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Bugger - I only have a spare pair of 2.5 inch clear lenses.

Is that crack on the top or bottom of the lens? (Or, can you rotate the lens in the projector at all?)


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Just realised the lens is held into the body by a spring ring.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

gerontius said:


> Just realised the lens is held into the body by a spring ring.


Yeap - almost all of the currently-available aftermarket projectors allow lens swaps (because that's what Da Kidz are asking for  ) so you can swap the lens with another one.

But, that might not be much use unless you can get another lens with the right diameter and focal length...


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks for checking Alex.
The crack is on the edge on the lens, it's annoying that it arrived cracked, but actually I'm thinking now maybe it is still usable ?
Here is the pic I sent to AliExpress trying to get them to send a replacement.
The lens could be rotated - not sure what position would have the least impact ? What do you think ?

John


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

OK found the time to post an update:

LIGHT AT LAST 8) But it was a mammoth job for me, but it doesnt have to be for you.

Plan was to:
-Open lenses
-Replace xenon reflectors and refit projectors
-Fit DRLs (light bar and round DRL in front of main beam)
-Fabricate clear corners
-Fit back everything
-Put new lenses from bimmerjakes that I had bought almost a year ago.
-Make new DRL 5A light circuit from headlights to fusebox inside the car, including a relay for proper operation.
-Make sure everything works

Splitting the lenses was really easy, 50C at the oven for 15' wasnt enough so it was another 15' at 75C (fan), then go around the lens with a pry tool and off it comes. Not scary at all and predictable.

This 10eur pry tool set is a must have for everyone.









After opening up, I realized that almost ALL the cables inside were crumbling away, the insulation was disintegrating into dust. Scary, and took best part of a days job to fix with heatshrink and/or electrical tape. Only the xenon cables (the ones from the igniter) were good. Here I also learned that brown cable is always earth at our cars.. :wink:


































I thought the oven did this but my mechanic told me its age related. Fix was to first remove the plug from the headlight, remove the safety pin, note which cables goes where, depin the cables from the plug and repair them with heatshrink and/or electrical tape.. Depinning an Audi cable can be a real pain for many but its only because you have to know how to do it [smiley=book2.gif]

Undo the socket on the headlight: From the inside, push the big tabs first, it unclicks and then do the small size tabs









Remove the white "secondary lock". All electrical plugs in our cars have a secondary lock which is often brightly coloured. Without removing it, it is impossible to undo the pins.









Remove pins from the outside pushing inwards, taking care to note what goes where. 









VW tools to undo pins exist but are expensive. A diy solution exists that is very useful, how to make them from old windshield wipers.














I fabricated this from an angled tweezers. You need to push simultaneously from top and bottom of the pin to unclip it.








(continuing)


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Xenon reflectors next:

As you know, I had bought replacement xenon reflectors without checking the condition on ones of my car as I wanted to have everything ready to commence work: These were bought from reflektorklinik.de which offers a deposit service, meaning they send you fresh ones and you send your old ones back for the price of 100+100eur deposit - not cheap.

Removal from headlight is 3 screws: Interestingly, these were different bits in each of my headlights, you most probably need a torx bit with the hole in the middle:









The condition of the reflectors wasn't too bad as I had seen in previous posters here. Some reflectors in other brand cars are plastic and practically melt away (eg BMW E46s); these are a quality sturdy item. I also think they are made of metal.

Due to reflective surface, pictures are difficult to show the condition. One reflector was worse than the other as it is 4 years older (don't ask). I have selected these 3 from at least 50 pictures.

2001 Reflector









2005 Reflector









New reflector: As a note these are coated heavily with the new reflective coat, to fit them you need to open up the screw holes and tracks with a round bit. 









I have also made a video to show reflector condition.





Kudos also to reflectorklinik: One of the reflectors they send was bad but they sent me a new one with next day delivery. This is how I explained it to them  





Refitment is a 5 min job really, take parts from the old reflector (4 screws in the front) and refit. Dont lose the rubber standoffs and take note where they go. Clean glass lens inside and out with isopropyl alcohol.









Done









*Summary/thoughts for anyone interested: * 
I would first advise to check your reflectors before you send them for repair. *I am at this stage not sure how much a slight soiling like mine affects light output*. Plan some time ahead and be prepared for some downtime, it would be a good idea to combine this if you have other work done on the TT.

Clean glass lens with isopropyl alcohol, this may make more of a difference than a new reflector and of course clean/polish your headlight lenses and seal them.

Take some reference measurements: This is important and I found out at the last minute. In the headlight, the 3 light units (main beam, low bean/xenon and fog light) are installed with a reference to each other. This doesnt have to be super accurate but you can mess it up if eg. you install the xenon and you screw it too much on one side as the rubber spacers can be compressed a lot.









*EDIT & WARNINGS 2020: *Test fit the lights in the car WITHOUT putting on the lenses to check light alignment of low and *main *beam, as this can t be adjusted individually (read more on that on the adjusting section on my later post)

Don't touch the reflective surface on other lights (main beam/fog lights) as it is easily scratched.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I have tons of info regarding rest of the work, drl install and wiring setup. Not sure if I should post it in this thread, here's a sneak preview of end result.


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

silkman said:


> I have tons of info regarding rest of the work, drl install and wiring setup. Not sure if I should post it in this thread, here's a sneak preview of end result.


Think this is great stuff, and I think it helps a lot of us. Looking forward to seeing more.

How did you make out with getting your smashed window fixed? That whole thing sounded infuriating.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

torqueit said:


> How did you make out with getting your smashed window fixed? That whole thing sounded infuriating.


They just phoned me that the part arrived but they can only book repair next Monday pm :roll: Only 4 weeks so far :x


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

This just shouldn't have happened. Hope it all comes together on Monday.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

gerontius said:


> Thanks for checking Alex.
> The crack is on the edge on the lens, it's annoying that it arrived cracked, but actually I'm thinking now maybe it is still usable ?
> Here is the pic I sent to AliExpress trying to get them to send a replacement.
> The lens could be rotated - not sure what position would have the least impact ? What do you think ?
> ...


Rotate the lens so the crack is at the bottom of the projector. It should be fine in any position, to be honest - worst that happens is you'll end up with a "rabbit catcher" (a beam of light pointing off to the side or causing a bit of upwards glare). The easy solution to that is to spray the back of the lens silver or white in that area - the paint should reflect the light back into the projector so it's not wasted, and the light won't make it as far as the crack to cause anybody any annoyances.

Honestly, it looks like it should be fine.

/Al


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

silkman said:


> I have tons of info regarding rest of the work, drl install and wiring setup. Not sure if I should post it in this thread, here's a sneak preview of end result.


Awesome work. Well done, bud. Very nice, detailed and careful work.

The insulation on the wiring seems to crumble with age when it's subjected to heat cycles. The wires between ignitor and bulb holder are typically rubberised and don't crumble but can perish, which is why you must never touch those wires when the lights are turned on (or ever during normal operation, just in case...  ).

Keep it up - more pics please! :mrgreen:

/Al


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Here goes, found some time to post:

*LED selection:* I was looking to put DRLs for some time in the TT but was put off by the "many little leds" appearance :roll: that even car makers use for 2019 cars. I wanted solid leds with no gap in between the led bulbs.

The ones i got in the end were profile pivot switchbacks: 
100mm for the round ones
https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/le ... halos.html

And 18inch for the strips:
https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php/le ... strip.html

Switchback means that the same led unit can flash amber, and then return to its led on or off state. It has a small controller with 3 cables that goes inside the headlight to achieve the on-off-amber-cycle. These were expensive, all in all minus some new user coupons + shipping it came to $141. I was also stung by customs which brought the total to 126eur+45 eur tax.

These appeared to be a bit higher quality than the ebay ones, only time will tell how long they will work. LEDs do not work indefinitely...

This is the look I was going for, although the round ones still retain the amber functionality, easily switchable via a trick I did:


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Clearcorners fabrication:*

To put the led strips, you need clearcorners. As these are no longer made from OSIR you need to fabricate them.

Get an A3 sheet of perspex/acrylic/whatever brandname, the light diffusor or prismatic type. Got a big sheet locally for 15eur. In the UK theres a company selling it on ebay, quite cheap but get the big one as the A4 size is too small..









Roughly mark using existing orange corners. Since the "diamonds" in the acrylic are diagonal, I had to mark at a 45 degree angle so that the diamonds would align similar to the originals. Don't try to be exact now, cut slightly bigger









Acrylic is a pain and messy to cut because it can snap and break: you have to go slow and with a very decent quality jigsaw cutter (borrow a makita from a friend, I didn't). You also need a blade with high Teeth Per Inch count (TPI), usually metal blades. Even blades marked for acrylic are crap. Then use a dremel to sort-of cut the small details

Now you have to heat the acrylic to reproduce the bends, both lengthwise and top to bottom. I used the gas stove (biggest size burner). Get another acrylic piece and practice, heating it is a very progressive process unless you heat it too much where it becomes hotmelt glue [smiley=bomb.gif].

Use the headlight inserts to test fitment many times and go back to dremeling/heating. I would heat the parts and then attach them to the old ones with rubberbands and leave to cool.









Mine were not perfect, although they appear so in the pictures. Ok they're good from a distance of 1ft. Somehow the middle "tooth" in the end became big enough to leave a gap. But they would click and fit snugly without glue in the housing. 

















*It is a lot of work and you can never get them 100%. My advice is if you can get OSIR clearcorners from someone even for £80-100, buy them. *You'll thank me in the end.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*LED install.*

The LED strips were definitely more involving; the halos are a piece of cake. You need some very thin wire to secure them in place, the mounting holes in the halos are about 0.5mm diameter so you need 0.4mm wire, I also got a 0.5mm drill (get a couple because they will snap) and 1mm drill. Also need some strong double sided tape for the led controllers. Then the work is all about cable management.

a) LED strips. The glue in the led strips is crap so you need to fasten them with thin wire. The flasher plastic is held in the headlight housing with hex screws, one is deep enough to make your usual hex bit unusable so you need a hex screwdriver, fortunately I had one.

18" is too big right?









The factory flash bulb has to work after this, otherwise you will get a quick flashing indicator on the dashpod as when a bulb is burned. This is what I came up with; fitted the flexible led strip so that theres space for the flash bulb to work... Here the flasher plastic is upside down. The led controller is also shown at the bottom.









Finished install of the led strip that has to be bent in a W shape.









Added some compressed aluminium foil for better clearance









The cable on the led strip would go on the outside part of the lens, twist it and make a hole at the top so that the housing would close properly. Naturally, to fit the drl plug through the hole you need to unpin it :roll: The drl controller is fixed with double sided tape at the side of the headlight and the cable is tucked there as well.
Again, try, rinse and repeat for fitment. 

























b) LED halos
These LED halos are so easy to install that I didn't take pictures! They have tiny holes at 120degrees apart, where you can mount them with the thin wire. Essentially, making sure the halo cable is at the TOP of the black headlight insert where it won't be visible, mark and drill 3 holes 1 cm apart from the insert edge and mount the halo to the insert with the wire. Fit the halo led controller in front of the xenon igniter unit where there's plenty of space. Adding only the halos would also decrease cost of the build in *time and effort *(no need for clearcorners)









c) Wrap up - electrical
You will need to send two cables outside the headlight, one for drl + and another for flash +. I found the best place was the plugged hole, next to the open hole of the flash bulb.

Drill the housing through with an 8mm drill and put a rubber grommet









The drls are first connected to the drl controller and from it there are three cables:
-Ground (this is spliced into from any BROWN cable in the headlight)
-Drl+ (added a red cable from both drls and sent it through the grommet)
-Flash+ The flash voltage/command is not in the headlight 10pin plug, but is directly in the 2pin base with the flash bulb outside the headlight. This will be connected to later from outside. Also, the drl flash orange cables come with a spade connector.

A nifty trick I found was to first cut the spade connector from the orange of the led STRIP and then connect it to a length of black wire (at least 50cm), then route this black wire to the back of the headlight, like below, and then out through the grommet: This loop is tied with tie-wraps to other cables 









The orange cable of the led HALO is left alone and unconnected. Now using the supplied "thief type" connector in the kit, you add it to the black loop wire, meaning that if in the future you also want to have the halo to switch to orange, you can just connect the orange halo wire to the black from the back of the headlight.

(more work in the next post)


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*(Unusual) Tools and parts needed:*

-Decent wire connector crimper, the un-insulated type to make connectors: (yes it will be used a lot)
Got this knipex for 20eur. The crimper for audio plugs with red, blue, yellow dots will NOT work.









*UPDATE:* This is a better Knipex crimper model for the same money as it works for both insulated and non-insulated connectors (Model 9722240)









*Learn to make said connectors here:*





-Insulated and damp resistant connectors, 2 pin. I got 2 pairs (male and female) of these, complete with their pins, these were Hella/MTA, quite common:
These are for the two wires coming out of the headlight in previous post.

















-Wire cloth tape, this is the same stuff that's covering wires in engine bay and around the car.

-Corrugated and slotted plastic pipe (4m), again, its the same stuff in the engine bay, comes in various sizes, even Audi sells it by the metre. All car wires have to be covered with the stuff above; in hot parts of the engine bay both need to be used (cloth tape + plastic pipe).

-5metres of 1.0mm or 1.5mm (have the AWP conversions somewhere) red wire, plus some of other colour for connections. Total amperage for DRLs was 390mA X2 plus 590mA x2 so almost 2 Amps.

-One standard 4pin 30A car relay, got a Bosch one for 5.5 eur (Audi part is 141951253A but don't buy from Audi :wink: )

-A relay base from Audi/VW, part number 443937527 plus wire pins for it * (2 different types). Audi Greece didnt stock the part but found some on a used vw parts store, bought 2 for 2eur  
These come in all colours imaginable.









-A small blade fuse 5A, plus pins* for it.

-Two bulbs similar to the ones in the car but in amber colour, the ones in the car are white.

-Two one way diodes 1N5400 ? (not sure but they were quite fat). These electrical components allow current to pass only one way.

-All the pins above plus few extra, in case you mess them up.*

-Heatshring wrap in various widths but electrical tape will also do.

-Patience and time

Apart from the crimper tool and the relay base, all the rest were found in an automotive electric parts shop, which is quite rare or online. Wires need to be rated for automotive use.

*Found a very useful website for electrical work in our car. Its for a VW Jetta from the period but all electrical parts are the same, even the fusebox and relay holder above.
http://www.passatplus.de/umbauteile/ste ... ecker3.htm

In the top it lists the pins inside the passenger side fusebox, for big and small fuses, then more at the bottom it lists the relay base and corresponding pins etc according to wire thickness. The pins are not Audi specific, but specific enough to only be available at automotive electric parts stores.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Well done

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Electrical work - engine bay*

-Finishing up with the headlights:
Wrap the two cables coming out of the headlight with cloth tape and install the MALE connectors. 10-15cm of cabling should be enough. Dont forget to add the rubber moisture protection and remove the safety clip from the connector housing. The pins would click nicely in the housing. Red is drl+, black is flash+

















This is the 2pin factory flash connector; you will make a new connector next to it: Follow it where it meets the factory corrugated pipe, unwrap the factory wire (not the brown which is ground, the other one), make a splice and solder a piece of wire for flash operation (pin1). Calculate some length of wire (same as the flash wire as they go side to side) and install the 2pin female connector: pin 2 (red wire) is drl +. Dont cut yet the red drl + wire as it will go to the next headlight and then inside the car. 









Cover up the splice with heatshrink/electrical tape/corrugated pipe, and start wrapping the long red wire with cloth tape and putting inside the corrugated pipe.

Roughly bolt the left headlight (1) into place, install all 3 plugs and start securing your new wire to the top of the radiator housing with tie-wraps. Take this fabricated wire to the other headlight (2) and repeat flash splicing etc









Roughly bolt the right headlight into place and continue making a length of the wire/cloth tape/corrugated pipe. At this stage, test that both headlights are working and you can test the drls by briefly touching the long wire into the battery +.

Remove the TT airfilter housing. Under it, there's an L shaped plastic "channel" where factory wires pass. Unclip its cover and slide it away (the corrugated wire is shown at the bottom of the picture). This is where you will take your wire inside the car. Secure it with tie-wraps until you arrive at the top under the strut brace.









Remove (carefully) the plastic splash guard at the bottom of the windshield, which clips into place. Naturally, you have to remove windshield wipers first :lol: 









This is a big rubber grommet housing that leads wires inside the car (RHD UK cars may be slightly different). At this stage I made a hole at the top of the grommet (marked) and fed the wire through it. No more corrugated pipe after this point, but the red wire should be still wrapped with cloth tape. If you have removed the bottom cover under steering wheel, you will be able to wiggle the wire a bit and be able to catch it from inside...









Secure everything with tie-wraps, making sure your wire doesnt foul wiper operation, clean up the rubber grommet and use some gasket silicone around the "hole". Fit back the wire channel cover, airfilter and windshield plastic cover (for this it helps to clean it up first, clean up the windshield glass guides and use some silicone spray to fit it )

Congratulations. You've almost finished with engine bay. You have to align the headlights; I don't mean the light level, I mean the units themselves which should be aligned with correct panel gaps (the screw under the grille can be screwed in and out for alignment purposes) and refit the bumper etc.

This is the alignment screw which can turn by hand









(post continues below)


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Nicely done, Silkman - great write-up with lots of pictures. Enjoy your updated headlights!


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Electrical work - inside the car*

I went to all this trouble to a) install a relay where the drls would light up when engine is on OR when you would unlock the car and b) to have a proper fuse at the stock fusebox so I can quickly disable them for MOT etc (or when they die because I'm not doing the work again)

From previous step you now have a red wire coming inside the car, under the steering wheel.

a) Fusing. Open up the fusebox cover. You will see there's an unused micro fuse spot









Theres a length of bare metal busbar, with permanent +12V. Make a piece of wire with the same connector both ends, plug one side on the busbar and the other side on the empty fuse hole (#17 I think). Make another *longer *wire with the same connector and put it next to it. 









The 3 connectors needed, all the same, part 000979133









Seems easy until you mess up. I put the connector the wrong way (vertically) and it was almost impossible to unpin it from the fusebox. It came out in pieces, together with some of my skin [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Make sure you get it right the first time. Slit wrist anyone?









You now have a permanent fused +12V red wire. Spot the new DRL fuse. *Remove fuse until you're done.*









b) Relay circuit. At the comfort of your workbench prepare the following. This is an OR circuit, meaning DRLs will work when either one or both are true, engine is on or dome light is on. Diodes are soldered in a criss cross pattern so that possible stress is on the cable, not the component. Wrap up everything with heatshrink and cloth tape when you're done. One diode cable should be 20cm and fit a ring connector at the other end (this will go to 75X port of the busbar), the other longer maybe 80cm (this will go to the dome light cable in the A pillar, more below).









c) Relay base
This is the schematic of the 4pin relay. 
-You need +12V permanent (the wire from the fusebox you just made) - pin 30, 
-make a brown cable about 20 cm with a ring connector, relay earth - pin 85. 
-the Y cable with the diodes, pin 86 energizes the relay
-lastly the red wire from the engine bay is pin 87.

















Make sure you remove the square secondary lock of the relay base first. Then the relay has two types of connectors, the sides are different and the top and bottom one goes in horizontally, the other vertically. The top and bottom pins are the same ones you used in the fusebox. Apart from the ground wire and the Y-wire, you will put connectors to the other two cables inside the car. 








Side connectors:









Leave sufficient wire length but not ridiculously too much. Click all 4 relay wires into the relay base, add the lock and click it in an empty spot from behind (bottom row of the relay plate).
This is the relay plate. It has a ridiculous amount of empty relay base positions. As this plate was used in many Audi/vw models, I suspect its for adding additional components like taxi meter, police sirens and equipment etc.









Secure the ground wire that now has a ring connector to the other end to the ground ring terminal and









...one side of the Y-wire that also has a ring connector to the 75X connector of the busbar (green arrow)









At this stage (one wire to do still), I just added the relay in the base and tested that everything works. It did.
Clicky clicky.









*Last wire - dome light*. From this great forum I had noted that the dome light is activated by a red-black wire going up to the A-pillar. For some reason unknown, I thought this was at the other side where the glovebox is. In a totally unnecessary exercise, it took the glovebox apart for no reason whatsoever. [smiley=bigcry.gif] :x [smiley=bomb.gif]
Theres a group of wires going up the A-pillar, right next to the bunch coming out of the fusebox. Open it up and find the red-black one. 


> "It goes to 12V when the car is unlocked and is directly linked to the map lights.
> 
> 0V when the map lights go off. "


Splice it, connect a thief-type connector to it and connect the last side of the Y-wire. A note about thief connectors: they can be very unreliable and you need to press them a lot so that a proper connection is made... Cover up everything with cloth tape and you're done

















EDIT: If you dig up your electrical school courses (or dig up the internets) you can do a number of scenarios with relays. Eg with adding a second relay you can make the drls turn off when you have low beam on etc... Some DRLs have a dimming feature, you would use a second relay next to the first one to activate it.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Quick video of DRLs






And another one for xenon performance. Xenons are NOT aligned correctly in the video, they are too low and left/right positions are wrong.






Have to update still for xenon alignment. But DRLs are funny, car at the front always changes lane for you to pass :wink: :twisted:


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

*Last part - alignment*

A relatively good alignment result can be established if you find a proper spot to align your headlights. You need a *flat *place (eg supermarket park ground or underground carpark) with a light coloured wall.

Parts needed:
-Blanket to cover one headlight at a time
-Black sticky tape
-Screwdriver or 5mm allen key
-Tape measure or you can measure with your phone.

a) Move the car as close to the wall as possible and mark with a cross where the low beam of each headlight focuses

b) Move the car backwards without turning the wheels until the headlights are 7.6 meters from the wall marks.

c) Make sure the __/--- pattern (or ----\___ in the UK ) is correct with regards to the marks you made. Cover one headlight with a blanket and adjust the other until result is desired.

















Too low and left right is also off









Left right is OK but too high









Good









d) Finally adjust the fog lights. They only have up and down so make sure both are at the same level, obviously lower than the low beam.









Result!


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

silkman said:


> *Last part - alignment*
> 
> A relatively good alignment result can be established if you find a proper spot to align your headlights. You need a *flat *place (eg supermarket park ground or underground carpark) with a light coloured wall.
> 
> ...


You should also use VCDS to put the HIDs into "adjustment mode", that runs the motors through to their extremes and stops in the middle. You then manually adjust them with the screws. Then save that in VCDS. It then knows that as its "home" position.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

@david c
Correct.

Did that but my posts are getting ridiculously long. Also discovered that unfortunately the motor inside passenger headlight is audible (makes a grinding noise) but does not move the light up and down. Maybe its shot or just disconnected. Light was so bad before that I hadn't noticed the leveler wasn't working...

This can only be replaced with the headlight apart and OF COURSE I'm not doing that again.

Shame really as its a cheap part with many aftermarket suppliers. EPC doesn't list it as a separate part for the TT but its
1J0 941 295 A 
Also bosch part 0307853304 
https://www.autodoc.gr/bosch/666857


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I like the DRL lights, very nice.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Thanks for the kind words everyone who commented.


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## kriz0346 (Jul 19, 2017)

Nice work

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G903F met Tapatalk


----------



## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

Has anyone ordered reflectors from the chinese company?
I emailed both http://www.headlight-headlamp.com and http://www.oemxenonshop.com a week ago to inquire if they would sell me reflectors only. Apparently they are the same company because I finally got responses, minutes apart, and they were the exact same answer word for word and he told me USD$188. That seems too high, maybe with the language difference he didn't understand that I want reflectors only maybe he was quoting me the whole projector??
I would like to get a look at my reflectors but I am unable to get my projectors out with the headlights still in the car. There are three bolts which I can barely get to and I thought they were star bits, but none of my bits are fitting in the bolt. So I guess I have to take out the headlights just to look at my reflectors [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
I haven't been able to find anyone in the US to resilver my reflectors.


----------



## Nadim_m (Oct 21, 2013)

Projectors are attached using 3 security torx screws. Like a torx but with a hole in the middle.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Nadim_m said:


> Projectors are attached using 3 security torx screws. Like a torx but with a hole in the middle.


Mine are normal Torx, not Security Torx.


----------



## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

Nadim_m said:


> Projectors are attached using 3 security torx screws. Like a torx but with a hole in the middle.


Thanks for the tip, that would explain why none of my bits were fitting.

I emailed the chinese company again and I still can barely understand their english but I think he says that USD$188 is for two projectors. Can't buy just the reflectors only. Also they are out of stock on the headlight lens covers. Mine are pretty bad so my weekend project is going to be attempting to polish my headlight lens covers...


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

tt92103 said:


> Nadim_m said:
> 
> 
> > Projectors are attached using 3 security torx screws. Like a torx but with a hole in the middle.
> ...


In mine one headlight had standard torx and the other had security torx, I had a headlight replaced in the past by Audi.

I sincerely doubt you can remove / refit the projectors with the headlights still in the car. Even if you manage to remove the 3 screws blind, you won't be able to put it back, unless you employ some sort of small camera and have really small hands but good luck if you manage to drop a screw or the rubber standoffs etc...

Did you try to contact one of the two german companies for reflector repair? One was 60eur, the other was 80eur for repair plus shipping so quite less than $188.



> I haven't been able to find anyone in the US to resilver my reflectors.


There definitely has to be someone who does it. Ask in forums perhaps?

EDIT: Found this with lots of links, some were good. Ask for PVD process (powder vavuum deposition) headlight lens repair.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8629.0


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## Jamie948 (Dec 8, 2007)

Hi all,

Currently fitting bi xenon lights, have split the lenses have cut down one of the carriers.

I'm struggling with the wiring aspect. The XB H SERIES bulb supplied with the kit has 4 wires. Two will clip into the wiring adapter as seen at the bottom of the photo.

I'm not sure how or if the other two wires are used, and how or if the bi xenon high beam is activated on the new projectors. The white and brown wire connects to the back of the new projector but where does this wire connect to activate the solenoid on the new projector?

OR

Do I forget all the extra wires and just clip the bulb into the adapter loom and that then into the standard connector at the back of the light ?


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jamie948 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Currently fitting bi xenon lights, have split the lenses have cut down one of the carriers.
> 
> ...


The small coiled up wire connects into the High Beam wiring to activate the solenoid.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

And a completed pic with it all back together 8)


----------



## Jamie948 (Dec 8, 2007)

Great thank you, so the coiled up wire connects to the same connections as the high beam ? Effectively meaning the standard high beam AND the bi xenon high beam will activate at the same time ?

Sorry for my ignorance, i suck with anything that you can't hit with a hammer or tighten / loosen


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jamie948 said:


> Great thank you, so the coiled up wire connects to the same connections as the high beam ? Effectively meaning the standard high beam AND the bi xenon high beam will activate at the same time ?


Yes and Yes.


----------



## Jamie948 (Dec 8, 2007)

David you are my hero 

Last question, (pushing my luck here) the wiring loom that comes with the bulb has 4 wires, two connect to the ds2 adapter, what are the other two? ( the one that's braided and the black and white wires? Do I need to do anything with these ? 
Thank you


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jamie948 said:


> Last question, (pushing my luck here) the wiring loom that comes with the bulb has 4 wires, two connect to the ds2 adapter, what are the other two? ( the one that's braided and the black and white wires? Do I need to do anything with these ?


That can only be for an alternative wiring arrangement. Possibly for aftermarket ballasts/igniters.

The only wiring you'll need is from the D2S connector to the bulb.
and the small wires to activate the main beam solenoid.

This all assumes you are still using the OEM ballasts and igniters.

In my last pic it shows the igniter Velcro'd to the back cover.
The igniter is usually screwed in deep inside the headlight, only accessible if you split and completely disassemble the innards. So, while you have it all apart, relocate them to make them easily replaceable should one fail.


----------



## Jamie948 (Dec 8, 2007)

Thanks mate, I thought as much but wanted to make sure...
Cutting the carriers is a PITA, had to buy a dremmel especially. Next is the faff of fitting them back together and the alignment. One bonus though is I got rid of a dead spider which was at the front of the light


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Jamie948 said:


> Thanks mate, I thought as much but wanted to make sure...
> Cutting the carriers is a PITA, had to buy a dremmel especially. Next is the faff of fitting them back together and the alignment. One bonus though is I got rid of a dead spider which was at the front of the light


How did it go? You've finished it and happy?

As a word of caution, after having used the lights for a few months, they have held well but other than the one leveler not working as I have written a few posts back, the high beam on the left module is slightly too low and that can't be easily adjusted without taking everything apart... This means that high beam needs to be tested with the lights off the car (off a spare battery) and adjust the low beam so they match. Then install the lights on the car and adjust low beam as usual.

*High beam correct position*
https://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/how-to-a ... eadlights/


----------



## Jamie948 (Dec 8, 2007)

silkman said:


> Jamie948 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks mate, I thought as much but wanted to make sure...
> ...


Great upgrade, the difference is amazing. I do a fair bit of B road driving and I work shifts so plenty of night driving. Full beam is like driving with floodlights on!

Managed to snap a clear corner indicator lens fitting it so need to replace it, and to check the alignment screw as it gave up adjusting and has no resistance anymore. I have bought some osram laser extreme h7 bulbs to try and colour match the high beams a little closer to the Xenons.

Loads of faffing to fit the projectors but the end result is plenty worth it.

I now have the original projectors spare which I may sell as the reflectors could be re silvered to bring them back to their best and will then be a straight swap with the originals


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jamie948 said:


> ... and to check the alignment screw as it gave up adjusting and has no resistance anymore.


Did you use VCDS to put them into adjustment mode before adjusting and to save the new level position?

If not, the adjuster may have come off of the end of the screw.
Or the adjuster screw has lifted away from its other screw.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Would also like to update as its been some time since the rebuild/repair: 
Headlights have been working flawlessly and most important not a drop of water/moisture in them so the sticky stuff has held well. Of course they mist inside like any TT but turning on the xenons takes care of that. Light output is great.

I have put Osram rally H7 bulbs in main beam. As I have said, main beam especially on LH side is a little low which means the xenon projector needs some adjusting (lowering to match the main beam) and then the whole headlight needs to be aligned again.

The auto level bosch adjuster in the RH side (my fault) has shot in price to about 70eur from 12eur last time I checked. In mine this is either dead or disconnected but need to take out the headlight lens to fix that.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

silkman said:


> Would also like to update as its been some time since the rebuild/repair:
> Headlights have been working flawlessly and most important not a drop of water/moisture in them so the sticky stuff has held well. Of course they mist inside like any TT but turning on the xenons takes care of that. Light output is great.
> 
> I have put Osram rally H7 bulbs in main beam. As I have said, main beam especially on LH side is a little low which means the xenon projector needs some adjusting (lowering to match the main beam) and then the whole headlight needs to be aligned again.
> ...


I had three or four of those in a box somewhere here a while back. If I find them again I will post one to you 

/Al


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

alexgreyhead said:


> silkman said:
> 
> 
> > Would also like to update as its been some time since the rebuild/repair:
> ...


Thats awesome and so kind of you  Can I at least reimburse postage?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

silkman said:


> Thats awesome and so kind of you  Can I at least reimburse postage?


Well, sure, but I haven't found them yet... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I'll keep an eye out when I'm up in the loft after Christmas.

8)


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## TTKen (Aug 9, 2018)

I am interested in upgrading my units, my problem is front headlamp covers, mine are fcked this is after sanding and polishing the front of them  all seems on the inside, if i cook them off via the oven can i restore the insides?


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

TTKen said:


> I am interested in upgrading my units, my problem is front headlamp covers, mine are fcked this is after sanding and polishing the front of them  all seems on the inside, if i cook them off via the oven can i restore the insides?


Just checked back on this thread and unfortunately this can realistically only be fixed with new lenses, still out of stock from bimmerjakes (apart from the ridiculous price)


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## namke (Oct 21, 2019)

silkman said:


> *Summary/thoughts for anyone interested: *
> I would first advise to check your reflectors before you send them for repair. *I am at this stage not sure how much a slight soiling like mine affects light output*. Plan some time ahead and be prepared for some downtime, it would be a good idea to combine this if you have other work done on the TT.


@silkman In hindsight, do you think that the resilvered reflectors have made a useful difference? I am currently wondering whether to get mine resilvered or just go for new projectors (e.g. from retrofitlab). The resilvering would be cheaper and less invasive of course  I could of course just get brighter bulbs&#8230;

(I'm in the fortunate position of of having a spare pair of headlights whose reflectors I can send off without putting the car off the road!)


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

namke said:


> I am currently wondering whether to get mine resilvered or just go for new projectors (e.g. from retrofitlab). The resilvering would be cheaper and less invasive of course  *I could of course just get brighter bulbs&#8230;*


Brighter bulbs won't help if the reflectors are no longer reflective...!!


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## namke (Oct 21, 2019)

David C said:


> Brighter bulbs won't help if the reflectors are no longer reflective...!!


Absolutely&#8230; but I'm not sure how 'bad' mine actually are


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Fairly bad to be honest, I would be looking to replace the whole units with https://emtuning.co.uk/product/retroqui ... eadlights/ I did and it's never been brighter.....


----------



## namke (Oct 21, 2019)

Baalthazaar said:


> Fairly bad to be honest, I would be looking to replace the whole units with https://emtuning.co.uk/product/retroqui ... eadlights/ I did and it's never been brighter.....


 thanks!

I wonder how those compare with these:
https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/audi-tt- ... ights.html


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

To be honest the only thing that would persuade me that these would be better is if they had a better adaptation so that less of the carrying cage for the oem projector would need trimming, this is the biggest ballache of the job. Output would be the real killer without seeing beam patterns directly compared, the morimotos seem to go on forever. The combination of these with the high beam relay built in, and new lenses from bimmmer jakes have turned a dim candle into a full on search light. Also the support from em tuning was top notch, and we are still under guarantee.... I did a lot of research into re silvering and other manufacturers before plumping for these, and I would bet that all the people on here that have done the same did it for the reason that it was just the best solution at the time.


----------



## namke (Oct 21, 2019)

Baalthazaar said:


> To be honest the only thing that would persuade me that these would be better is if they had a better adaptation so that less of the carrying cage for the oem projector would need trimming, this is the biggest ballache of the job. Output would be the real killer without seeing beam patterns directly compared, the morimotos seem to go on forever. The combination of these with the high beam relay built in, and new lenses from bimmmer jakes have turned a dim candle into a full on search light. Also the support from em tuning was top notch, and we are still under guarantee.... I did a lot of research into re silvering and other manufacturers before plumping for these, and I would bet that all the people on here that have done the same did it for the reason that it was just the best solution at the time.


Thanks -- looking more deeply it would seem that both Retrofitlab's kits are the same as the EM Tuning kits (they both appear to labeled RetroQuick).

Having taken a look at the reflectors actually on my car, they are in a much worse state than those I pictured above, so I've swapped in the better ones to see how they look for now.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

namke said:


> @silkman In hindsight, do you think that the resilvered reflectors have made a useful difference? I am currently wondering whether to get mine resilvered or just go for new projectors (e.g. from retrofitlab). The resilvering would be cheaper and less invasive of course  I could of course just get brighter bulbs&#8230;
> 
> (I'm in the fortunate position of of having a spare pair of headlights whose reflectors I can send off without putting the car off the road!)


If you have a spare set, definitely go for it, the 80 or so euros required will certainly make a difference. And I reckon you'll always find someone to take a restored set off your hands if you choose so :roll:

Also clean the reflector lenses (the reflector glass inside) with isopropyl alcohol when fitting, this also makes a difference.


----------



## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

namke said:


> I wonder how those compare with these:
> https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/audi-tt- ... ights.html


I got those, highly recommended although I do have some additional info:

Do not be tempted with the XB35 high output bulbs, these do not work with the OEM ballast.
Requires some work with a dremel to fit, not a direct replacement

Light output is superb, sharp cutoff and high beams are now ridiculous when combined with the stock halogens.

I would recommend the Ultimo projectors.
I got the 'old' style and the Ultimo have the much improved screw-type bulb holders.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Dutch said:


> Do not be tempted with the XB35 high output bulbs, these do not work with the OEM ballast.


They do.
I have them in my Morimoto projectors running off of the OEM ballasts & igniters.


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

Didn't work for me.. perhaps it depends on the age of the ballast.


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

This is a great thread, I look after my brothers TT, his lights are so bad he cant drive it at night.... so I just spent £175 of his money on a 2nd hand pair described as 'excelent condition' . I queried the permormance of them and was given the answer, out customers by them for the asthetic qualities of them, and as you have a Mk1 TT your lights will be bad :roll: anyway went ahead with it and same time saw some 2nd hand lenses that dont have any fine cracking in them (apparntly).... well as I wait in anticipation for all this stuff to arrive, my thoughts as fit the new headlamps hope they work well enough for now, then with the spare very bad lights do a budget rebuild.... the £70 projectors from china or £125 to resilver the existing ones or £155 Bi Xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 ...... 2 two later options seem easy but I do like to save money and cant rule out the £70 chinese ones provided I can get them fitted right.... Any opinions


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Hi Paulos, do you have a link to the Chinese projectors?


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

alexgreyhead said:


> Hi Paulos, do you have a link to the Chinese projectors?


Something like this in a RHD

https://sinolyn.net/products/al-bi-xeno ... vo-s40-c70


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Paulos said:


> alexgreyhead said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Paulos, do you have a link to the Chinese projectors?
> ...


Perfect. I have almost identical ones in Shed.

I bought mine from Aliexpress - they arrived from China in good condition within about three weeks and cost around £38 iirc.

Good luck!


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

1.5 years on and the lights are still performing brilliantly, drls still work  . Shame that the bimmerjakes lenses are gone for good, they have been removed from the website altogether.

Managed to fix the crappy lights on my smart 451 too, cleaning the projector lens with long cotton buds made a huge difference so its definitely a try if you have bad headlights.


----------



## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

silkman said:


> 1.5 years on and the lights are still performing brilliantly, drls still work  . Shame that the bimmerjakes lenses are gone for good, they have been removed from the website altogether.
> 
> Managed to fix the crappy lights on my smart 451 too, cleaning the projector lens with long cotton buds made a huge difference so its definitely a try if you have bad headlights.


Yeah bimmer Jakes probably fed up of equiries that sound more like begging emails :lol:

Resilvering is very tempting, for a straight fit, I have spoken to this UK company, they have done, they often do the TT type, they can turn the projectors round in a week https://www.dual-metallising.co.uk/lighting-reflectors/

My 2nd hand lenses came today, not overly impressed, but they were described ok, just I asked if there were any 'fine cracks' and he said no... perhaps I should have said to hold them up to a light.... Ah well, now I have spares, I can do a lens restoration project, lets see just how far they need to be sanded back untill they come good, if at all... maybe buy a light meter even 

Just waiting for the oes from ebay described as 'excellent contion' but cant guartee you can see with them at night :roll:


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Paulos said:


> Resilvering is very tempting, for a straight fit, I have spoken to this UK company, they have done, they often do the TT type, they can turn the projectors round in a week https://www.dual-metallising.co.uk/lighting-reflectors/


I used that company to resilver the headlamps in my Firenza - they were very good. I think they've got a good reputation in MGF and other circles too.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

droopsnoot said:


> Paulos said:
> 
> 
> > Resilvering is very tempting, for a straight fit, I have spoken to this UK company, they have done, they often do the TT type, they can turn the projectors round in a week https://www.dual-metallising.co.uk/lighting-reflectors/
> ...


I think I've come across them when searching but that German company was closer to me :lol: . How much they charge?


----------



## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

silkman said:


> droopsnoot said:
> 
> 
> > Paulos said:
> ...


I think he said £125 inc tax and postage... around that anyway


----------



## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

Well my headlamps in 'excelent condition were only marginly better tham what was on there, so I've asked for a refund and will put the £170 returned into some projectors.... havent quite decided yet but Its looking like Retrolab at the moment... purely on cost....

On a similar note....I did buy 2 sets of second hand lens's from ebay the other day I spent all day on the worst lens (described by the seller as 1 out of 10, I was really happy with the outcome as I thought it wasn't possible to get rid of fine cracks, but started with 600,1200,2000,3000.5000.7000, then used Meguires Plast-Rx and protectant
Before 








After








Not worried about Bimmer Jakes anymore  
My fitbit said I'd done 25000 steps today ....sat down all day , thats how long it took :lol: :lol:


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Christ, nice work, bud.

Don't know if it might be worth looking into a UV sealant to prevent sunlight making them go opaque?

/Al


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Nice work! You definitely need to coat them with a decent UV clearcoat, probably no need for a paint gun job, a spray can will probably do the trick. Very easy to do now you have the lenses apart.

All body shop supply shops can make you clearcoat in spray can, don't know about the Halfords quality :roll:

Good brands are Sikkens, Spies Hecker etc


----------



## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

Thanks Paulos - you've given me faith in headlight polishing. Mine are about as bad as yours, so if yours came out that good... I did order the Bimmer Jakes lenses before they were de-listed, but I'd like to try polishing them first. For a protectant, use Paint Protection Film - about 3.5mm should be good thickness. It's got UV protection built-in and is really easy to put on or change - plenty of vids on YouTube.


----------



## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

Thanks, when you mean clear coat, you mean inside yeah? as its always easy enough to rebuff the outside, I don't think I'll try the film. I am tempted to use to clear coat one side and use Maguires Protectant on the other side, for comparisson

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meguiars-Pla ... SwC1pez74q

then

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263881136346

I have been using it 3 years, done lots with them and still holding after 2-3 years

Oh and I have sent back the Headlights I bought and have reinvested what will be refuned into a Bi-Xenon upgrade from Retrofitlab, EM Tuning have fab feedback on here, but these are a bit cheaper, so I hope I have chose right.... I'll let you know how I get on


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Clear coat the outside but you will have to rough them up for it to key/stick.

Mine went a mess again in 6 months but i only used a UV wax


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

If you don't want to clearcoat it, I heard that 3M now makes a transparent UV resistant film for headlights.

It goes on the same way you would put car wrap.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Hmm, I'm not *convinced* I've ever heard it said that clearcoat/laquer filters UV...?

Edit: wait! Halford's lacquer says it does, so maybe they all do??

"All our clear lacquers contain UV inhibitors / filters as they significantly extend the life of the coating"

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paint ... 68843.html



/Al


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Surely the lacquer that is on all our cars does for the (flat) colour coat what we want to do for the (not too) polished polycarbonate?
Mac.


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

The lights on the car when my brother bought it had been clearcoated, not sure how long it had been on for but it got added as an advisory....... 
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Headlamp has a product on the light source but not seriously reducing light output (4.1.4 (b)).


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

I swear by the paint protection film - as Silkman mentioned - a thicker version for the headlights.
I've got Hella headlights w/ glass lenses on my Mk.4 Golf and I have the headlight film on that. No rock chips, no worries about UV (if I had plastic lenses) and it's been there 7+ years. Light output (on the Hellas) is better than stock and no distortion problem. A lot cheaper and easy to apply/change. I'd suggest to give it a look.


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

JoeKan said:


> I swear by the paint protection film - as Silkman mentioned - a thicker version for the headlights.
> I've got Hella headlights w/ glass lenses on my Mk.4 Golf and I have the headlight film on that. No rock chips, no worries about UV (if I had plastic lenses) and it's been there 7+ years. Light output (on the Hellas) is better than stock and no distortion problem. A lot cheaper and easy to apply/change. I'd suggest to give it a look.


I had a search didn't find one from 3M, lots of others though, any recommended links


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

This is what I used. Got it at our larger Automotive shop - about 8" x 36" roll. Might have to look around or order online. For headlights, you'd want the thicker film - better resists flying rocks and debris.


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

JoeKan said:


> This is what I used. Got it at our larger Automotive shop - about 8" x 36" roll. Might have to look around or order online. For headlights, you'd want the thicker film - better resists flying rocks and debris.


Thanks, will be useful for some other painting projects I have too... Once I get round to them 

Edit... I just put the question out on a headlight group and this is the reply I'll leave here....
3M Venture Shield, Oraguard, Xpel Ultimate, Llumar. I am wrapping with Oraguard 283 but I hope in the future to learn to wrap better and start protecting them with Xpel Ultimate.


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Is it really 5mm thick, or is is 5 mil?
5mm sounds wrong ...
Mac.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

PlasticMac said:


> Is it really 5mm thick, or is is 5 mil?
> 5mm sounds wrong ...
> Mac.


The film i fitted was about 0.2mm thick and it was a bitch to fit. Soapy water and a heat gun and the first attempt got scrapped.


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## namke (Oct 21, 2019)

Paulos said:


> Well my headlamps in 'excelent condition were only marginly better tham what was on there, so I've asked for a refund and will put the £170 returned into some projectors.... havent quite decided yet but Its looking like Retrolab at the moment... purely on cost....
> 
> On a similar note....I did buy 2 sets of second hand lens's from ebay the other day I spent all day on the worst lens (described by the seller as 1 out of 10, I was really happy with the outcome as I thought it wasn't possible to get rid of fine cracks, but started with 600,1200,2000,3000.5000.7000, then used Meguires Plast-Rx and protectant
> Before
> ...


That's a really nice result - mine have the cracks visible when the headlights are on (or bright light at the 'right' angle), although they look nice and clear in most daylight conditions. Did you find that the cracks are near the surface then? And were they mainly on the inner or outer surfaces (or both!). Looks like this might be worth doing.

Additionally, did you sand by hand, or did you have machine assistance?


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

> That's a really nice result - mine have the cracks visible when the headlights are on (or bright light at the 'right' angle), although they look nice and clear in most daylight conditions. Did you find that the cracks are near the surface then? And were they mainly on the inner or outer surfaces (or both!). Looks like this might be worth doing.
> 
> Additionally, did you sand by hand, or did you have machine assistance?


 I ended up sanding both sides, but I am fairly sure there was no need to sand the inside, so I will only do it if I have to next time.... I did it by hand, under a light so I could check the progress and know when I'm past the cracking. I do have a 3" air polisher, but it was more cathartic to put some trash on amazon prime video and sit with a few old towels and a bowl of water.... for anyone who has bulled boots in the army, a very simiar approch. Then, as you go up the grades of wet n dry you have to ensure you have completly git rid of the previous grade scratches.


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

namke said:


> Baalthazaar said:
> 
> 
> > To be honest the only thing that would persuade me that these would be better is if they had a better adaptation so that less of the carrying cage for the oem projector would need trimming, this is the biggest ballache of the job. Output would be the real killer without seeing beam patterns directly compared, the morimotos seem to go on forever. The combination of these with the high beam relay built in, and new lenses from bimmmer jakes have turned a dim candle into a full on search light. Also the support from em tuning was top notch, and we are still under guarantee.... I did a lot of research into re silvering and other manufacturers before plumping for these, and I would bet that all the people on here that have done the same did it for the reason that it was just the best solution at the time.
> ...


I've just fitted one of the Retrofitlab kits into the headlight, I havn't tested them out yet.... I have no regrets and I dont know much about the Morimotos from EM Tuning (Retro quick)... but my main observation is that the parts included in the kit are all available on Ebay, the value in this kit is the brackets to adapt the projectors, I'm fairly sure I'm confident enough now to do the same again to my RX8 with

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312317600395 (without the Shrouds)

and this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H1-5000k-Whi ... .l4275.c10

and this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D2-ADAPTOR-D ... xyVaBSstPi

and using CAD (Carboard Aided Design) make some of these .....

https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/accessor ... ket-1.html

Then splice in the Dip solinoid rather than chopping up one of these that came with the kit 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H7-To-Bi-Xen ... 2367961395?
as I was instructed to only use the small plug the rest is thrown away, and spliced in to the main beam....

So with a bit of DIY bracket making the whole lot could be done for about £60

Saying that... I still think the 3inch D2s is a really good option to try but I dont know how easy it would be to fit (epecially as I have some brand new Xenarchs doing nothing .... Maybe thats the route I'll go with the RX8 at some point.
Passenger side is ready to go, but I have still got to sand down the drivers side
I'l post some photos at the weekend... Lots of other jobs on the TT to do first .... Front Springs, Top mounts, Rocker cover gasket, Lower control arm bushes both sides, Gearbox driveshaft seal and nearly forgot rear OS CV boot...... Its a good car apart from that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## D4rKiTo (Feb 2, 2021)

Hello guys. My headlights are halogen and the projectors are fucked up really hard.


















Do you know if I can use hid projectors with halogen bulbs? Like this https://www.retrofitlab.com/en/audi-tt- ... ights.html

I can't pass "mot" in my country with xenon bulbs so I don't know if I can fit halogen bulbs to pass it and then switch back to xenon.

My problem is only with low beams.
Thanks! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Edit: I talked with retrofitlab via Facebook and they confirmed I can use halogen so I'm buying the kit without xenon/ballasts.


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## DogP (Jul 27, 2017)

Thanks for all the pics and info... I helped my friend with his MK1 with dim headlights, and at first expected that it was the yellowed plastic (they were very cloudy). But after sanding, buffing, etc. they were still dim, so then I figured his reflectors were shot (which brought me to this thread) - but luckily it turned out it was just his bulbs.

So, if still running your original HID bulbs on your 20 y/o car, I'd recommend picking up a cheap set of bulbs to see if it makes a difference before digging too deeply into the problem. I thought as the bulbs got past their useful lifespan they started noticeably changing color, or had startup/flickering problems, but these still looked white and always fired right up. But I remembered seeing a graph a while ago showing that HID bulbs dimmed to ~70% or so after ~2000 hours, and figured after 20 years and 170,000 miles, these bulbs probably had more than that.

I snapped a few comparison pics -

Before:







Only left bulb replaced for side-by-side comparison:







Both replaced:








He grabbed these, $10 shipped for 2 bulbs O_O: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KSTL2WM ... they seem to work fine now, but I suggested buying and replacing with some quality bulbs for longevity, now that he knows they rest of the headlight assembly is OK.

I'm glad I talked him out of just replacing the headlight assemblies with an aftermarket set from ebay - OEM look much better IMO.

DogP


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## romipypo (Nov 23, 2021)

alexgreyhead said:


> Really really really REALLY easy - pop the clips off then pop into an oven on 75C heat (on a wooden chopping board) for an hour. Take out with oven gloves on and pull the lens off the body.
> 
> Get a roll of butyl windscreen sealant and use a thin bead when smooshing it back together to ensure a water-tight seal. Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, in that you should pop the lens onto the body and then pop it all in the oven to soften up, and after an hour, press it all back together.
> 
> ...


Just did and it worked


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## Draper74 (Apr 23, 2018)

I’ve separated one of my headlights this evening, only needed about 15mins in the oven at 100C but I’m sure mine have been apart before and not sealed back together properly so may of been easier. Not decided which route to go down yet as I hadn’t planned to separate the units and was just going to polish them while I’ve got the front end stripped down


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