# 2007 3.2 VR6 Roadster - A bit of Advice on Servicing Please!



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Hi guys, my second thread looking for a bit of advice.

I’m well overdue a service according to my book so want to do a full “belt and braces” job asap and from then on in, I’ll be doing around 4,000 miles a yr max.

ive got a very good relationship with a local garage who’ve done work for me for 10 years or so, they’ve always let me source my own parts and do me a labour only basis. I like it this way as I can control what oil goes in, parts used etc.

With that said, I’d like a bit of input as to what I need to get and part numbers etc. The common things I’m looking at are;

Spark plugs. I hope I e bought the right ones, but I’ve just bagged x6 OEM plugs for £50 delivered - part no 101905606A

Engine oil - open to suggestions as to the best to use -this one is bound to be subject to various opinions!

Air filter - looking at a performance K&N for around £60 - part no K/N33-2384. Bog standard seem to be about £15 and would need changing so thought a performance job would be good with the miles I do.

Haldex Oil & filter - I think I’m a gen 2 haldex coupling but confirmation would be great - seen an eBay seller selling gen 2 service kit for around £50 for filter fill/drain plugs seals oil and filler.

Pollen filter - can’t seem to find an OEM one? - seen various brands but which is best and what part no

Fuel filter - no info on this in service book at all, I presume there is one and it should be changed

Diff oil - spoke to a local Audi independent who said no need to change, just top up? - surely after 80k it is due a change so if it is, I believe it’s a different oil to the haldex so what would I need to get?

Brake fluid? - again, best quality and recommendations welcome

I don’t know if I’ve missed anything else, coolant was recently topped up and strength tested and okay.

Any help or advice welcomed!
Thanks in advance
Steve


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Here's my two cents on this. First, don't buy anything on line (eBay, Amazon, etc.) unless you absolutely know the seller and parts are legit. Even spark plugs are being faked these days which I why I bought mine from Audi. They were 2-Euros more than on Amazon but at least I know they're OEM and they're the right ones.

I've linked a 3.2 VR6 maintenance and service post which has additional 'How to' links which also includes all the part numbers. If you don't already have one, a VCDS or OBDeleven fault scanner might be worth the investment. Since you have an older 3.2 VR6 TT like mine you can keep an eye on the cam chain stretch every so often. Also, since you have a Roadster, the VCDS is the only OBDII device out there than can do the Adaptation if your roof flaps ever throw a DTC. I have both, and the OBDeleven is nice to have in the glove box because it's handy to have for quick scans and if anything comes up while you're on the road.

Other than oil, brake fluid and coolant, I would go with Audi's fluids for the drive train components so you know they're the right ones. They may add a few extra Euros for a service you probably won't do again for another 60.000 miles or 5-6 years, but it's worth it IMHO.

• Spark plugs - Audi Parts and Service unless you have a legit source.
• Engine oil & filter - Any major oil brand that meets Audi's oil spec is fine. Go with a MANN filter.
• Air filter - Don't waste your money on a K&N. I had one before on my Honda S2000 and IMHO it's no better than a good clean Fram or MANN paper filter.
• Haldex oil & filter - There's a filter and also a screen for the pump. Use Audi's kits or order them from (https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/). Use Audi's recommended fluid.
• Pollen filter - MANN. The charcoal impregnated version does a better job than the plain paper element.
• Fuel filter - MANN.
• Diff oil - Ignore Audi's service suggestions. They also believe in "lifetime" fluids. Use Audi's fluid.
• Brake fluid - Any major brand that meets Audi specs.

Given the low miles you drive, just replace the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin pollen filter once a year. I'm not driving mine nearly as much these days so this has become my maintenance routine. The air and pollen filters are super easy DIY jobs and there's really no sense paying a mechanic to do this.

Other bits and bobs -

• If you have the STronic, have the fluid changed along with the Haldex and Final drive. If you're a real stickler for details you can have the Bevel Box fluid changed although I don't know anyone that's ever had it done.
• Coolant should be flushed and replaced, not just a topped up. No such thing as lifetime anything. Use a name brand that meets the Audi spec.
• Accessory belt, tensioner and pulleys are probably due for replacement if not for mileage, but for age.
• It might be a good idea to pull the Plenum cover and make sure your HVAC intake and drains are clear or leaves and debris. (Now we're talking DIY).
• Unique to the Roadster, performing the R&R on the roof flap servos is worth the time for peace of mind. (Also DIY)
• If your battery is the original factory fitted or more than six years old, seriously consider replacing it.
• While it's up on the rack, along with the rotors and pads, have the mechanic give these rubber bits a good once over for any splits or cracks -

Suspension Bushings
Cardan shaft rubber disc
CV boots, inboard and outboard
Check the tires and rotate them
With winter just around the corner, toss on some new wiper blades while you're doing the Plenum job. And finally, give the top a good pre-winter clean and run some silicone treatment around the door, window and trunk seals so they don't freeze up and stick. Personally I like Nigrin Gummi-Pflegestift for this.









FAQ - Mk2 3.2 VR6 (BUB) Maintenance & Service


Maintenance & Service - As the title indicates, these are service and maintenance procedures specific to the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine. For a better idea of what's inside, I've linked a YouTube video from 2007 of a cut-away 3.2 VR6 engine which shows many of the hidden features like the cyclone...




www.ttforum.co.uk












How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Convertible Roof Flap Servo R&R


Scope - One of the most common problems with the roof not working is due to a fault code from the convertible top Roof Flap Servos (RFS). If your top suddenly stops working, or doesn't open or close all the way, or if the windows stop working correctly odds are good one or both of the RFS is...




www.ttforum.co.uk












FAQ - Haldex Gen2 & Gen4 Fault Codes


If the dash pod Electronic Power Control (EPC) light is on or flickering, or the AWD isn't working like it should be, this could point to problems with the Haldex unit. To determine whether or not there's a fault code present, you will need an OBDII diagnostic device such as VCDS or OBDeleven...




www.ttforum.co.uk












FAQ - Convertible Top Care OEM Factory Instructions


The following information is from Webasto GmBH who manufactures the Audi TT convertible top. The fabric itself is produced by Haartz and manufactured under the trade mark Sonnenland®; a German-made 3-ply topping made up of an acrylic twill-weave facing, a rubber inner-layer, and a polyester...




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks mate, that’s very helpful indeed. I’ve already cleared out the drain points for the soft top (reservoirs behind seats which were full of crap and are now empty and clean) which was a bit of a pig of a job not being able to see much. I could just about get my hand down there and a vacuum nozzle with a smaller flexible tube taped to it did the job.

Also with my small hands I was able to get the under the plenum and do the same with the drain points there - rinse and repeat as per rear drainage points. I ran a few litres of soapy water down them all and seemed to drain properly with no overflowing.

i didn’t remove the plenum fully, so didn’t get to check the HVAC under there but I will do, just haven’t got a wiper puller.

As for the service items, I’ve spent all day trying to find OEM part numbers for various things and think I’ve come up pretty well but confirmation would be great before I buy.

Spark plugs - already bought these of what seems to be a reputable eBay seller. They were pictured new in OEM boxes and the part ref was 101905606A

On to the haldex stuff. The eBay seller I was watching is actually the same business as you linked to, but I asked them if their stuff was OEM and they replied that it wasn’t. I then phoned and researched direct with Audi who at first didn’t have a clue but then I got a helpful chap who told me the following part numbers required for the haldex gen 2

02D598574 - haldex filter
G055175A2 - haldex oil
N91082701 - drain plug
N90281802 - fill plug

Next on to rear diff oil - again Audi said it was a lifetime fluid but managed to get the following part ref

G052145S2 - Audi oem rear diff oil - couldn’t find part numbers for fill/drain plugs so any info appreciated.

Fuel filter up next

1K0201051K - oem fuel filter or Mann WK 69/2

Air filter - whilst I appreciate the initial expense of the K&N at £60, if I changing a bog standard every year then the performance panel will still be going long after I’ve paid out for four standard filters at £15 a pop, so I might just got with the K&N as with my mileage, it’s not going to need oiling in 4 yrs or 16,000 miles

Pollen filter - still researching but have seen two Mann filters, one saying it’s biofunctional cabin filter RHD, the other juststates RHD on their website. Would an OEM be better?

haven’t researched brake fluid much yet but seem to understand it’s dot4? - is it best to stick to this or can dot 5.1 or 6 be used or is that a no-no?

Engine oil, haven’t had time to check much but with my mileage, no point in going for long life oil I guess.

My brain is practically fried right now, never thought it’d be so difficult to get oem parts!


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Actually you want to avoid long life oil with the 3.2 VR6. There's a really good article on the cam adjusters done by a German team and they found that the longer you wait to change the oil, the greater the risk of sludge and deposits accumulating inside the cam adjusters. Suffice to say, just change you oil once a year and you're good to go. It's cheap insurance.

Here the MANN online catalog page -





MANN-FILTER Online Catalog Europe


MANN-FILTER Online Catalog Europe




catalog.mann-filter.com





As to the pollen filter, you might want to read up on the difference and see which one you prefer.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Cheers, and as for the part numbers for the haldex etc I listed, do they seem to be correct for my 07 3.2 v6 roadster (manual btw) ?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Air filter - whilst I appreciate the initial expense of the K&N at £60, if I changing a bog standard every year then the performance panel will still be going long after I’ve paid out for four standard filters at £15 a pop, so I might just got with the K&N as with my mileage, it’s not going to need oiling in 4 yrs or 16,000 miles


Before you purchase a K&N filter you might read this: 
K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)

Quote from the above link: "Compared to the AC, the K&N "*plugged up" nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt*. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons".

Paper filters are cheap and effective. No reason to spend more money to get worse results.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s interesting, I had read that the K&N often performed badly if over oiled but ran well out of the box. I thought I’d have no plans of re-oiling one before I would just simply replace it. From what I’d read, they don’t need cleaning or oiling for many many miles and my logic was x4 standard over 4 yrs = the cost of one K&N which would last me much longer than 4 years, hence working out cheaper in the long run…….


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Unless you live in a really dusty environment, you don't need to change the air filter every year. I think I changed mine 2-years ago so I may swap it out next spring.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Looks like standard filter it is then!


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

okay, engine oil. Not long life for me but how do I tell the difference! - been looking tonight and can’t make head nor tail of long life vs normal oil so someone please put me out of my misery!


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> okay, engine oil. Not long life for me but how do I tell the difference! - been looking tonight and can’t make head nor tail of long life vs normal oil so someone please put me out of my misery!


Depending on the age of your car and your location, Audi recommends oils that meet either VW's 502 /505 or 504 /507 specification (the second number is for diesels). All motor oils will list the various manufacture's approvals that they've applied for & been awarded. (Approvals can be found on the label or on the web)

VW 504 supersedes the 502 spec, and there is no harm using 504 in a car that's spec'ed for 502.

VW504 is considered a long-life oil. Long-life oils tend to have a higher TNB additive pack to help neutralize contaminants over a longer period (but that makes no difference if you change your oil more frequently).

In order to meet VW 504 /507 spec the oil must be 5W-30 and must be low SAP (sulfur, ash and phosphates) The viscosity is spec'ed to meet EU mileage standards and LOW SAP ensures it meets EU's emission standards (high SAP oils have more anti-wear inhibitors, but those additives can fowl a diesel's DPF).

If you want to run an oil with a different viscosity, say 0W-30 or 5W-40 it won't have VW's 504 approval (spec say's it has to be 5W-30) but lack of VW's approval in no way means the oil is inferior.

If you want to run a high SAP oil for it's enhanced anti-wear properties you can, but again it won't be listed as meeting VW's 504 /507 spec.

If you want to play it safe (or your car is still under warranty) you can't go wrong with an oil that is VW 504 / 507 approved, but that shouldn't stop you from making other choices.

Personally, I run different viscosity's for Summer & Winter (making me non-compliant) but I think you're safe using any high quality 100% synthetic as long as the viscosity is appropriate.
(FWIW, I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro – 0W-40 & 5W-40. Good enough for Ferrari, good enough for me )


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I spoke via web chat to a guy at opie oils and he advised using 5w40 fully synthetic and emailed me a link to a list of oils









5w40 Engine Oil | Opie Oils


The UK's largest independent supplier of automotive oils, fluid and parts. We've products to suit any vehicle, from full blown Race / Track weapons, to Daily Drivers looking to save money. Plus FREE expert advice & recommendations - OPIE KNOW OILS



www.opieoils.co.uk





I’m still at a bit of a loss, my handbook says 502 00 / 504 00 for fixed service and 503 01 / 504 00 for long life.

recommendations for which to go for from that link for my 3.2 v6 appreciated!

I was reading other threads on the forum and someone stated that the v6 didn’t like 5w30 oil on fixed service schedule……


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Shell Helix (which is the same as Pennzoil Platinum Plus), Mobile1 and Castrol Edge (first three brands that came up on your opieoils.co.uk weblink) are all perfectly acceptable and easily obtainable at any auto-parts store. No reason to over think it.

For reference, when choosing a motor oil, the first number represents the oil's 'thickness' or viscosity when it is cold (the "W" in 5W stands for 'winter'). A thinner oil causes less drag during cold weather starting. If you live in a climate where winter temps are often below freezing, an oil with a viscosity rating of 0W might be a better choice than 504/507's spec'ed rating of 5W.

The second number is the viscosity of an oil when it is heated to operating temp. Since oil thins out with heat, a thicker oil might be more appropriate for a hard-running modified motor, (but could cause additional drag / lower mpg during normal street driving). Also, some people run thicker oil to compensate for a motor that is known to burn oil since thicker oil is less likely to slip past your piston rings. 

Synthetic oils can handle heat better before they start to break down. For this reason Synthetics are almost always recommended for turbo engines (turbo's get hot). On a NA engine, dino / dino-synthetic blends are fine (and cheaper)

Both 5W-30 & 5W-40 will fine to use in your V6.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks again for that great informative post.

Iv been thinking of going for the Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 from that link, the spec of it appears to be VW 502 505, so from my understanding it is suited to a VW/Audi fixed service interval. Some of the others don’t have any VAG certification.

I‘m in the UK, whilst it does get cold, it’s pretty rare to drop below -10c in the winter


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Oil can turn into a very long discussion and like tires, everyone has a favorite. I've used Castrol 5W30 on pretty much every car I've owned and have never experienced an oil-related failure. Then again, I change my oil once a year or every 5,000mi (8,000km). Sure, that may be more frequent than is actually necessary, but to me it's cheap insurance. Oil's not that expensive and when I'm under the car, it gives me a chance to look around and see if anything else needs attention. Generally speaking, 5W30 oil can function in temperatures as low as -30ºC and as high as 40ºC and I'm never driving in either extreme.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ll be changing the oil every 12mths regardless of my mileage which is likely to between 3-4,000 miles per year. I suppose I’m over thinking it, just want to make sure I’m not putting the wrong stuff in and getting the best for the engine really.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Back to the subject of haldex - I’ve just been liaising with an Audi independent about getting the filter and oil. Whilst he gave me the correct part number for the gen 2 filter, he said I’d need to provide him with the three letter code stamped into the axle so he could get the correct oil.

Does that sound right? - I don’t have the means right now to get under the car to find it, nor do I know if I have to remove inspection covers to see it.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I wonder if he means the three letter code on the Haldex case?? Here you can see mine which is marked "*JUY*". You can try placing your smart phone on a piece of card board or something, put it on video and slide it under the rear end. You might be able to see it that way without lifting the car
.
Here's is a reference to it in the Workshop Manual *Rear Final Drive & Haldex - RG 39 - D3E80023195*. You can download it from the KB -








FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study...


Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs Section Index - You can either scroll down through this post or just click on the section of interest. Section 1 - Body & Interior Section 2 - Electrical Wiring Diagrams, Communications and HVAC Section 3 - Engines Section 4 - Fuel Systems...




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

You shouldn't need the code just to order oil.

According to Matthew @haldexrepairs.co,uk, Haldex oil is Haldex oil whether it is branded for Audi, Volvo or Saab.
See: Haldex Oil and Filter - Filter for life?

Cut from the above link:
_"You can buy a bottle of oil from Volvo, Ford, VAG, Landrover or Vauxhall - they all have very different price tags, a different branded label, but the same blow moulded plastic bottles get filled with exactly the same fluid on the same bottle packing line in Hungary, I have examples of a few brands of oil here in front of me, and after many long conversations with a supplier who has been to the Hungary plant many times I have found out all sorts of strange things." 

P/N G055175A2 will get you 1 liter._


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks again fella’s. I’ll try the phone video thing tomorrow.

Again, on the subject of Haldex, I was given two part numbers from a genuine Audi dealer for the fill/drain plugs for the haldex which were

N91082701 - drain
N90281802 - fill

In true Audi style, they couldn’t give me part numbers for the fill/drain plugs for the rear diff fluid change as they said it was a “lifetime oil” 🤔

I did a Google of the above numbers and some results came back for the same part numbers for the rear diff - are they the same or do I need different plugs or have Audi given me the wrong details for the haldex plugs!


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

IIRC, the rear differential drain, fill & Haldex fill plugs are all the same. The only one different is the Haldex drain plug.

If you are going to do this yourself, be aware that it is easy to confuse the Haldex & diff drain plugs.
The Haldex fill and Diff drain are closely located (so they look like they go together). People have drained their diff and then wondered why their Haldex took so lttle fluid to refill...
There have even been cases where this mistake wasn't caught and discovered only after the rear diff 'grenaded'. 


















Additional note: Your Differential uses 75W90 gear oil. Any good Synthetic will do.
I replaced mine with Mobile1 LS


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks for that, I won’t be doing it myself but I will be getting all the bits together for my chap at my local garage as it suits us both to do labour only and I get the parts……just need to make sure I get the right ones now!

I just came a across this on haldexrepairs.co.uk






Fill and Drain plug for Gen 2, 4 and 5 VW Audi Seat and Skoda – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd







www.haldexrepairs.co.uk





Not sure if I’ve read the diagrams correctly, but it seems that the odd plug out is the rear diff drain plug ??

Seems the part numbers for the haldex fill/drain given to me by Audi match with haldexrepairs.co.uk and if the fill plug for the rear diff is the same as the haldex fill, I’m just left wondering about the rear diff drain plug now.….


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Not sure if I’ve read the diagrams correctly, but it seems that the odd plug out is the rear diff drain plug ??


No. Just crawled under my car. Both diff plugs and the Haldex fill plug are the same (small bolt shown in the pic) All three face out toward the door.

The Haldex drain is the big bolt and it faces toward the front of the car (see first pic above). If you didn't know better you could mistake this as a mounting bolt. That's were the confusion (and possible disaster) comes in


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ahhhh, now that makes sense. Thanks for crawling under your motor to check, that’s going above and beyond (and even under!) to help so thank you so much!

So, the haldex fill, rear diff fill and drain are all part number N90281802 (need x3)
The odd bugger out is the haldex drain which is part number N91082701 (need x1)


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> So, the haldex fill, rear diff fill and drain are all part number N90281802 (need x3)
> The odd bugger out is the haldex drain which is part number N91082701 (need x1)


That looks correct to me. 

Just in case it wasn't mentioned earlier, have your local mechanic pull the Haldex pump while everything is drained. In addition to the replaceable filter, there is a filter screen on the pump that can get gummed up. No replacement necessary, just cleaning.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Great advice, thanks, I did read about a “screen” but couldn’t find any part numbers but again that now makes sense as it’s probably another Audi non-serviceable item. I’ll make sure they pull the pump and give the screen a clean up!


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Out of curiosity, other than the following fluids, are there any others that need doing

Engine oil
Haldex oil
Rear diff oil
Brake fluid 
Coolant

Just trying to cover all bases at once.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

At this point the only thing left is the Bevel Box fluid. But I'm sure there will be a debate as to whether or not it's necessary. 








DSG Transmission and Bevel Box Fluid/Filter Change


Thanks to xJoelinez for his recent post on a knocking sound from his front end, it made me think about my own transmission fluid/filter service back in 2018. Looking through the service receipts, they did the DSG fluid and filter change, but I'm pretty sure they did not change the fluid in the...




www.ttforum.co.uk




You might want to get rid of your summer washer fluid and make sure you have winter rated washer fluid. Don't forget to run the headlight jets so it flushes the summer fluid out of the lines.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Tried the old iPhone on a plank of wood under the car to see if I could spot the marking on the haldex unit but mines a bit grotty and not clean enough to make out without physically getting under the car and cleaning it.

On a side note, I’m looking for OEM fuel filters but can’t seem to locate one. I found the following part number but it has 3 variants with eithe A, C or J on the end

6Q0201051*A* (_C_ or _J_) 

Can anyone say which is correct please?

Thanks again


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Think I might have figured out the fuel filter - seems that A C and J are just revisions of various versions of the filter with J being the latest revision……..I think. Confirmation is always welcome!









Fuel Filter


Located underneath your vehicle near the fuel tank




www.ecstuning.com


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Out of curiosity, other than the following fluids, are there any others that need doing
> 
> Engine oil
> Haldex oil
> ...


DSG fluid @ 35k miles / 55k km
Not sure about the interval for a manual?

Note: Manual transmission uses 70W75 weight GL-4 rated oil.
Your differential uses 75W90 GL-5 rated oil. 
GL-5 has additives that can damage copper / brass parts (syncros, etc) so it shouldn't be used in your transmission.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

My service manual states nothing about manual gearbox fluid change intervals, I guess it’s what they call another “doesn’t need doing ever” fluid. I had forgotten about the manual gearbox until Swiss said something about a bevel box…….

I guess it could do with changing whilst I’m doing everything else. Can the gearbox be drained and drain the bevel box at the same time or are they separate drain and fills?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Spark plugs arrived today, bought off eBay for £9 each free postage. Look genuine enough to me, all marked up with VW Audi rings and NGK


----------



## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

You can check here (5 things to compare)








Fake or not?


Beware of fake spark plugs: 5 step guide how to identify fake vs genuine by NGK spark plugs technical experts | Official NGK technical tipps




www.ngkntk.com


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks for the link, happy to say I’ve just checked mine and they all look completely legit 👍🏻


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Think I might have figured out the fuel filter - seems that A C and J are just revisions of various versions of the filter with J being the latest revision……..I think. Confirmation is always welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah that's right. The later revisions are designed for slightly higher fuel pressure and this is what you'll want to use. Interestingly this is a part where even the one you take off the car, the original part...is made in China most of the time. That's just a side note though. IIRC UFI makes the OE part but the Mann WK69/2 is a fine choice as well (also made in China lol).

The fuel filter is quite easy to change. Not as easy as old-skool engine-bay fuel filter but pretty easy for an under-car one. No special tools or fuel-line disconnect inserts are required since the release for the connectors are built into the connectors--you pretty much just have to push down on the integral "buttons" and they release!  It's a little tricky to do but basically you just press a screwdriver against the buttons/tabs on them and they will release and the lines will slide off without _too_ much fuss. Changed both my TT and A3 ones (same filter, location, procedure) in the summer. Easy peasy (so long as you can get under the car).

Helpful video is here, but I had an even easier time than shown in the video (I didn't use the picks, I used just a large flat-head screwdriver):


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Regarding fuel filters, and being a total noob, I’ve just noticed that they all seem to have a date stamped on them, not sure if this is just a manufacture date or an expiry date? - do these things have a shelf life and/or an expiry date? - I’m looking at a few with dates of 2013 stamped on them…….


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Regarding fuel filters, and being a total noob, I’ve just noticed that they all seem to have a date stamped on them, not sure if this is just a manufacture date or an expiry date? - do these things have a shelf life and/or an expiry date? - I’m looking at a few with dates of 2013 stamped on them…….


Definitely a manufacture date! They don't expire haha


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Definitely a manufacture date! They don't expire haha


I told ya I was a noob 😂 but still that’s good to know. Thanks. Just bought one I was looking at which was OEM.

Im still looking for the following OEM stuff

Gearbox oil and amount required with OEM part number and do i need to replace fill and drain plugs on both gearbox and bevel box? - im a bit confused as to if just changing gearbox oil will service the bevel box too…….

Sump plug OEM part number (for engine oil obviously)


Call me picky (or stupid) but as it’s my first Audi, I’d like to keep the majority of stuff to OEM parts and I’m trying to do ALL the required or recommended things at once so I can forget about the majority of it and enjoy the car.

Getting all of this done will make me sleep better, I know it might be overkill but to me, I’ll be keeping this car for a LONG time and only doing 4k miles a yr

(My local Audi service dept are very reluctant to give me part numbers for all kinds of stuff - not very helpful - I guess that’s because they want the business for themselves and to actually not help owners do their own thing, which I’m finding somewhat problematic and annoying!)


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Bit of a result for me today, shopping in Tesco and the “engine oil gods” must have been smiling down on me. Spied some 1L bottles of Castrol edge 5w40 titanium normally £16 a bottle..…reduced to £4.20 each to clear. There was only 6 on the shelf (obviously just the right amount for a change on my TT needing 5.5L) so I grabbed them all and made off like someone who just stole it 😂 of course, I went and paid for it like a normal person!


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Castrol edge 5w40 titanium normally £16 a bottle..…reduced to £4.20 each to clear. There was only 6 on the shelf


£16 a bottle is ridiculously over priced, but £4.20 is a good deal.
Best I could find here in the US is $5.40l (£4.65) and that is if you buy it in a 5l container


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Hey, everything is overpriced in the UK, I bet you don’t pay close to £1.40 (or near enough $2usd) for a litre of unleaded petrol 😟


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Once you get all that done, you can spend some quality time sourcing parts for the accessory belt, pulleys and tensioner. *MT-V6* has already done the heavy lifting on this one. Something you may want to consider given the age of your TT -








How to: VR6 3.2 Accessory Belt, Tensioner & Pulley...


I've started this post as I can't seem to find one for the Mk2 in this Forum and there doesn't seem to be much on other VAG Forums or YouTube either. Parts Required - 1.) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L 2.) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2) 3.) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933 Note: Verify correct...




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks Swiss, I’ll be doing that after I’ve footed the big bill for the rest of the stuff!

I could do with confirmation on one or two things before I order parts.

Coolant - is this the right stuff? - I put my reg in on the comma website as I’ve used Xstream in previous card and it came back with Xstream G40???









Audi 1.5ltr Bottle of Coolant GA13A8JM1


Genuine Audi parts and accessories, direct from Cardiff Audi & Bristol Audi, United Kingdom




www.audipartsdirect.co.uk





Cant find an OEM reference to a part number for the engine sump plug?

Brake fluid - again, OEM part number needed or equivalent.

Regarding the transmission gearbox oil, I spoke to Audi VW today and they said changing could cause more problems than not - is this just snake oil again?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> I could do with confirmation on one or two things before I order parts.
> Coolant - is this the right stuff? - I put my reg in on the comma website as I’ve used Xstream in previous card and it came back with Xstream G40???


The bottle of antifreeze shown in your pic should be correct. G13 (violet) is backwards compatible with older G12 (pink) & G12+ (purple).

Xstream G40 literature said that it is fine for use in your car but I can't confirm it is miscible with other types of antifreeze (meaning it's OK to use if you completely drain your system but as a top-up? Not sure?...)



> Brake fluid - again, OEM part number needed or equivalent.


Any name brand DOT4 brake fluid is fine for street use. You don't need to get this from Audi

Older cars might be spec'ed for DOT3 but DOT4 is compatible and can be mixed without harm.
DOT4 has a higher wet & dry boiling temp compared to DOT3 and is the most common brake fluid used today.

DOT5.1 has an even higher boiling point than 3 & 4 and is also compatible with both, but don't confuse DOT5.1 with DOT5 as DOT5 cannot be mixed with anything except itself. (DOT3, 4 & 5.1 are glycol ether based whereas DOT5 is silicone based)

I believe your brake system holds a little more than 1liter but I would get 1.5l just to be safe (need to push out old fluid. Having extra ensures all of the old fluid is displaced.



> Regarding the transmission gearbox oil, I spoke to Audi VW today and they said changing could cause more problems than not - is this just snake oil again?


Changing transmission fluid will not cause problems in and of itself. However, clean fluid '_might_' expose an existing problem (i.e built-up crud sealing a leak, etc)


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Great. Sump plug?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Great. Sump plug?


OEM Oil drain plug p/n N90813202, (but any M14x1.5 drain plug will do).
FWIW, I use an aftermarket one that is magnetized to help catch any ferrous metal particles.

Your existing plug is probably fine. You just need to replace the crush washer with each oil change.
(washer M14x20x1.5 copper or aluminum)


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice job of getting all the part numbers together guys! Can someone provide the missing information below and I will copy/paste this entire list into the KB 3.2 engine maintenance post for future reference -

*Audi TT 3.2 VR6 (BUB) Maintenance & Service Parts List - *

This list includes those parts commonly required for oil, fluid, coolant and spark plug changes on the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine. As always, be sure to verify the part numbers against those found on your vehicle -

*Spark Plugs -*
• OEM PN - 101 905 606 A (x6)
Note: pre-set gap 0.032" or 0.8mm

*Oil -*
• VW Specification 504/507 (5W-30) and must be low SAP (sulfur, ash and phosphates)
• Oil Sump drain plug: OEM PN - N90813202 (M14x1.5) uses a M14x20x1.5 copper or aluminum washer
• Oil filter element with gasket: MANN HU719/7x
• Oil filter housing: OEM PN - 071115433
• Oil filter housing drain seal bolt & o-ring: OEM PN - 071115434

*Transmission - 
Manual - *
• Fluid: ???
• Filter: ???
• Filter Housing / O-ring: ???
• Fill bolt/washer: ???
• Drain bolt/washer: ???

*S-Tronic (DSG Automatic) - *
• Fluid: ???
• Filter housing: OEM PN - 02E 305 047A
• Filter housing o-ring: OEM PN - N 91084501
• Filter element: OEM PN - 02E 305 051C
• Sealing plug (drain): OEM PN - N 90215404, M24x1.50
• Sealing plug O-Ring: OEM PN - N 0438092, 24x29
• Oil Pipe: OEM PN - 02E321363C, 96mm

*Front Differential or Bevel Box -*
• Fluid: ???
• Fill bolt/Washer: ???
• Drain bolt/washer: ???

*Haldex - *
• Gen2 Filter Kit: OEM PN - 02D598574
• Gen2 Pump Strainer Kit: OEM PN -02D598305
• Gen4 Filter Kit: OEM PN -
• Gen4 Pump Strainer Kit: OEM PN -
• Fill bolt: OEM PN - N90281802
• Drain bolt: OEM PN - N91082701
• Haldex fluid: OEM PN - G055175A2
• Febi-Bilstein High Performance Oil for Haldex Coupling: PN - 101172 (0.85l)

*Rear Differential or Final Drive - *
• 75W90 gear oil (Mobile1 LS)
• Fill bolt/washer: OEM PN - N90281802
• Drain bolt/washer: OEM PN - N90281802

*Brake Fluid - *
Any name brand DOT4 brake fluid is fine for street use. DOT4 has a higher wet & dry boiling temp and is compatible with DOT3 and can be mixed without harm.

*Coolant -*
• G12 (pink) as indicated on the reservoir bottle.
Note - G13 is backwards compatible with older G12 & G12+.

*Filters - *
• Fuel: MANN WK-69/2
• Engine: MANN C36-188
• Cabin/Pollen: MANN Charcoal impregnated: CU2939 (verify for left or right hand drive)


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Well, thanks to the help and advice received from you guys, my “shopping list” for servicing my car is as follows - I’ve tried to stick to OEM stuff, but as we know, other branded stuff is acceptable for some items.

Engine oil - I opted for Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40 - bottle states VW 505 00 & 505.01
Spark plugs - OEM 101905606A Laser Iridium (NGK IZR7B on box also)
Oil filter - OEM 070115562
Coolant - OEM GA13A8JM1 - x2 1.5l bottles of concentrate to mix up 6l.
Fuel filter - OEM 6Q0201051J
Air filter - OEM 1K0129620

Haldex filter - OEM 02D598574
Haldex oil - OEM G055175A2
Haldex fill plug - OEM N90281802
Haldex drain plug - OEM N91082701

Rear diff oil - OEM G052145S2
Rear diff fill & drain plugs - OEM N90281802 x2 (same as Haldex fill plug NOT drain plug, so I was told)

Pollen filter - OEM 1K2819653B

Manual gearbox oil - OEM G052527A2 (confirmation required)

Thats as far as I’ve got thus far, not sure if I’ve missed on anything.
I’ve got the oil filter but does the housing etc need changing too?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The filter housing shouldn't need replacement unless it cracked or it's been damaged from mishandling; e.g. dropping it can damage the threads, cause a chip or crack, or cause the internal filter element tensioner to come loose. 

The large o-ring for the housing should be in the box with the filter element. You can probably get away with not replacing the smaller o-ring on the housing drain plug and just reuse it every other time. But if you're unsure just replace it.

Unfortunately, the 3.2 filter housing does not have an internal drain valve like the 2.0 filter housings which makes things a bit of a mess when doing a DIY oil change. It was for that reason alone I replaced mine with a *ECS Tuning* aluminum housing and installed a *Stahlbus* valve in both the filter housing and oil sump.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just checking out magnetic sump plugs and came across this one









Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Drain Plug


Gold Plug is a high quality engine sump drain plug manufactured from 303 grade stainless steel and features a N45SH Neodymium magnet, the strongest magnet with the highest temperature rating available.Why is a magnet beneficial in a sump plug?Any swarf or wear particles of meta in the sump panel...




www.demon-tweeks.com





I think AP-08 should be the correct one, M14 1.5 but 22mm with magnet - presume that would be fine??


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> I think AP-08 should be the correct one, M14 1.5 but 22mm with magnet - presume that would be fine??


Should be fine. There are cheaper options but the one you highlighted looks like it is well constructed. Should last a lifetime. I would also order spare washers so you have them available on your next oil change. 
Here from the same vendor: Gold Plug Sump Plug Washer
(choose 20mm from the drop-down)


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Well spotted on the washers, I’ll make sure to add a good few in with the order. Yeah, pricier than others but like you say, looks well made so I think I’ll grab one……


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Air filter landed today - my service “kit” is starting to take shape! Oil, plugs and air filter with more on the way…….


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steviejones133 - *Speaking of washers, if you haven't changed your windshield wipers or changed over from summer to winter washer fluid, now's as good a time as any. When you put in the winter washer fluid, don't forget to run the headlight washers a few time to be sure you've cleared out the summer fluid. A good freeze could cause the headlight washer lines and/or aliens to crack.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks Swiss, already changed wiper blades, haven’t done the wash yet. To be honest, I knew my car had headlight jets but wasn’t sure how or when they operated! - I’m guessing they work only when the headlights are on and the windscreen wash jets are activated?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

I believe your headlight washers pop up every 5th wash


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Wow, they’re crazy little fella’s aren’t they!


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *FNChaos* - Right...either 5th or 10th, I've had mine turned off for so long I can't remember.  
But they can be re-coded to change the Washer Delay and Activation Time or coded off completely with either a VCDS or OBDeleven*. Or simply pull the fuse between MOT inspections.

*OBDeleven recently added a One-Touch App to disable them.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’m just wondering if I’ve bought the wrong air filter for the car. 

Part number 1K0129620B

Just looked at the invoice and it says Audi A3 2004-2008.

I found a reference to the above part on ecstuning.com and it also says doesn’t fit and it’s a “cold weather” filter - you can see from my previous pic, it has a white sheet on the bottom of it. I’ve measured it and it is 22.3 wide, 34.5cm long and 5.5cm high.

There is another part number without the “B” on the end but it appears to be the same dimensions but a tad less high at 5cm - obviously without the white cold weather pre-filter.

Would using this impede or affect airflow or performance?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Anyone?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

A quick check shows that 1K0129620 and 1K0129620B use the same base air filter.
Cross-checking the OEM numbers with Mann filter's website also shows that the same base filter is used (C 36 188)

The 'B' suffix indicates that a prefilter has been added to protect the filter from moisture due to snow ingestion. The prefilter looks to be pretty porous so I wouldn't expect it to affect performance

If the added height doesn't affect your ability to close up your airbox, the filter should be OK to use.
If not, you could probably remove the prefilter with a good yank.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s exactly what I thought too bud, I guess if it fits in, I’ll just leave it on even though I don’t suffer from torrential snow and cold weather - I guess it would assist in keeping the rest of the pleated filter dry…..


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

A few questions about front/rear diff oil changes and manual gearbox oil change….

Before I go ahead and order OEM fluids, I would like to check I’m looking at the right stuff as I dont want to make mistakes with this as it could prove VERY costly if the wrong fluid gets put in and blows the diff etc…

For the rear diff (seperate to haldex) I’m lead to believe it uses Audi G052145S2 fluid - 1l bottle - is that correct?

Front diff and manual gearbox/bevel box - now this is where I’m confusing myself greatly!!! - is the front diff seperate to the gearbox/bevel box?, if so, is it same oil as rear diff?

Manual 6 speed gearbox/bevel box - do these share the same fluid and if so, what OEM fluid is it? Also, when draining, I see both have their own fill/drain plugs so do both need to be drained and refilled independently of each other?

OEM fill/drain plugs for the above - do any of these plugs share the same part as the rear diff etc, for example, are the rear diff fill and drain same for the front diff and are the fill/drain on the gearbox/bevel box different?

Ive Looked at soooo many Audi fluid part numbers, I’ve really gotta make sure I’ll be getting the right stuff so any help & advice in advance greatly appreciated


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> For the rear diff (seperate to haldex) I’m lead to believe it uses Audi G052145S2 fluid - 1l bottle - is that correct?
> 
> Front diff and manual gearbox/bevel box - now this is where I’m confusing myself greatly!!! - is the front diff seperate to the gearbox/bevel box?, if so, is it same oil as rear diff?
> 
> Manual 6 speed gearbox/bevel box - do these share the same fluid and if so, what OEM fluid is it? Also, when draining, I see both have their own fill/drain plugs so do both need to be drained and refilled independently of each other?


Front and rear differentials (aka final drives) use the same fluid (see chart highlighted in yellow)
Front differential / final drive is also known as a bevel box
Fluid p/n G052145S2 is Synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil

Manual gearbox (see chart highlighted in blue)
Fluid p/n G052171A2 is Synthetic 75W GL-4 gear oil (as mentioned earlier do not use GL5 in your gearbox)

Haldex (see chart highlighted in green)
Fluid p/n G055175A2


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s great info. Thanks again!. It’s odd, I live chatted with ecs tuning just before your reply and gave them the car details….mk2 roadster 3.2 manual and they gave me a diffemt P/N for the gearbox fluid. They gave me:

G055512A2


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

G055512A2 looks to be a newer part number for the same stuff. Both are SAE 75w GL-4 gear oil


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Great. So, to summarise fluids….

Front & rear diff/final drive =G052145S2 GL5

Gearbox/transmission = G052171A2 or later G055512A2 GL4

Haldex as we know is G055175A2


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Oh, and just to confirm, if the front diff/final drive IS the bevel box, then then there is just one fill/drain for them both and not two separate sets of fill/drain? - thus draining the bevel box and refilling is filling the front final drive and the bevel box?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, I had thought the bevel box shared the same oil as the gearbox, no?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Any advice regarding my last post above?

in the meantime, I found what I think is a VERY informative thread concerning this on vwvortex.com with regards to an R32 









Mini DIY: How to drain/fill bevel box, haldex and rear...


There's still lots of questions going around about servicing all the drivetrain oils, minus DSG. So I decided to take a few pictures to point out where all the drain & fill plugs are. Oil capacities and part #'s were taken from 2008 A3 fluid capacity table last updated July 2012. Repair...




www.vwvortex.com


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Oh, and just to confirm, if the front diff/final drive IS the bevel box, then then there is just one fill/drain for them both and not two separate sets of fill/drain? - thus draining the bevel box and refilling is filling the front final drive and the bevel box?
> 
> Forgive my lack of knowledge, I had thought the bevel box shared the same oil as the gearbox, no?


Yes, the front differential = front final drive = bevel box. Different names for the same assembly.
One drain plug and one fill plug.

According to the following link, Manual transmission and differential oil change Mk1's shared fluid between the bevel box and transmission but the Mk2 has separate assemblies (using different fluids). I can confirm for certain this is the case with a DSG. Should be the same for a manual transmission?

If you look at third pic in the link mentioned above, you can see the drain plug for the bevel box. The fill plug is above it and left of drain plug but it can't be seen. However, if you reach up with your hand you can feel it .
Bevel box fill & drain plugs appear to be the same type used for the rear differential (N90281802)


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> in the meantime, I found what I think is a VERY informative thread concerning this on vwvortex.com with regards to an R32
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks to be a good resource. Note page 3 reply 42 - This is what happens if you confuse the Haldex and rear differential plugs


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, I read that post with some trepidation and a rather sick feeling so you can see just how cautious I am being about changing these fluids, gotta be 100% sure as I don’t want my diff to explode!


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Finally got my car up in the air today thanks to a friendly local garage with a ramp. Got the following picture from the rear axle/haldex unit giving me code ”JUY”. Looked up code as pictured and from what I can tell, the haldex fluid (OEM) specified is the same code all along (red arrow). Is that correct?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Yes. It looks correct. You will also note that oil for your final drive / differentials is G052145S2 as spec'ed earlier. 
(note: p/n G052145A1 is also spec'ed, difference being suffix 'S2' is a 1-liter bottle and A2 is 0.5-liter bottle)


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Great, thanks! That appears to be the final drive and haldex fluids currently identified, which is great.

Looking further back, I know that there were two p/n’s for the gearbox/transmission fluid, one appearing to be a later revision. I’ve been given yet another fluid p/n by an Audi dealership and by the place I’m looking to buy the majority of the OEM fluids and that part number is;

G052527A2

Is this yet another version of the same? - Audi don’t half know how to confuse things, don’t they?

EDIT.

Found an interesting post here





__





VW Manual Tranny Fluid G052527A2 vs Fuchs


2015 WV Passat Tdi 6 Speed Manual . I've confirmed that VW G052 527 A2 is he correct fluid, however the price is north of $60.00 a liter at dealer and even expensive on line. . I've found FUCHS TITAN SINTOFLUID FE 75W (80238300188) Manual Transmission Fluid (1 Liter) for around $11.00/liter...




forums.tdiclub.com


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> Found an interesting post here
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've read similar posts that indicate G052527A2 is a little more viscous than G052171A2 / G055512A2.

The kinematic viscosity of G052171A2 is suppose to be ~ 7.2cSt.
I couldn't find anything official from Audi, but others have indicated the kinematic viscosity of G052527A2 to be ~ 8.1cSt.
(thinner oil '_might_' make cold weather shifting a little easier, thicker oil '_might_' reduce gear noise, but in either case the difference would be subtle and they're all compatible with your transmission)

Most of the aftermarket brands say that their product is an acceptable substitute for multiple Audi part numbers, (meaning the difference in viscosity isn't significant enough for them to warrant multiple offerings)
For example Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE75W says it meets 8 different VW part numbers... )
See: TITAN SINTOFLUID FE SAE 75W | Automotive lubricants | FUCHS LUBRICANTS CO. (United States)

Personally I wouldn't over-think it. Go with whichever Audi oil you can get the best deal on.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, I think you are right, too much over thinking is certainly possible! I’ll probably end up with the cheapest of those three OEM fluids that I can find.

I think the only thing I need confirmation of now is the fill & drain plugs for the gearbox itself. I think I’ve bee looking at the correct schematic (below) for my manual 6 speed 3.2 Quattro and to me, it looks like items 24 & 25 are the fill & drain plugs - nothing listed for 25 but I assume that’s because the plug (24) comes with the washer (25) by default.

The transmission code in my service book states JYV

x2 N10037105 required if this is correct.






gear housing; for 6 speed manual gearbox; for four... Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2007 year Audi EUROPA 301080


gear housing<br/>for 6 speed manual gearbox<br/>for four-wheel drive Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2007 year Audi EUROPA 301080 spare parts




audi.7zap.com


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> it looks like items 24 & 25 are the fill & drain plugs - nothing listed for 25 but I assume that’s because the plug (24) comes with the washer (25) by default.


Not sure if drain plug p/n N10037105 comes with a washer or not?

A google image search shows only the plug. However, part diagrams for other vehicles using the same part show the plug without a sealing washer. Images that show the backside of the plug look like there is a taper behind the bolt head. If so, that would allow for a seal w/o a washer so maybe it's not needed?

In any case, if you want to cover all bases the part number for item #25 is N0438092.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks again for the reply and info.

Something doesn’t appear to be correct though, at least according to the info provided in the exploded view I posted earlier which states drain & fill are N10037105 - the size next to the p/n is 22x1.5 quantity 2.

The seal/washer N0438092 you linked me to (and which an Audi dealer quoted me) says it is 24x29. ECS says doesn’t fit.

Audi also gave me a different number for the plugs - N90917801 - which is a 24x1.5 plug. They also gave me that the same time they gave me the seal/washer you quoted above, which they say DOES fit!









Drain/Fill Plug Seal - Priced Each


Ensure a proper seal after transmission fluid service. 24x29




www.ecstuning.com


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Hard to make heads or tails of this mess. 

Best I can tell is the p/n Audi gave you, N90917801 is is a 24x1.5 plug.
And the sealing washer I looked up, p/n N0438092 is a 24 x 29 washer
These two parts appear to go together.

The part number you provided, N10037105 is a M22 x 1.5 plug which doesn't appear to require a sealing washer (even though the exploded diagram shows one)
Guessing Audi (or 7zap) cut & pasted the diagram from another model but updated the part numbers as appropriate. Audi (or 7zap) didn't list item #25 since a M22 x 1.5 plug doesn't require one.

To make matter even more confusing, ECS shows transmission 'kits' for both plug sizes but the kits all list the same washer... 

I think the easiest way to clarify which plug you have is to take a look underneath your car. (maybe phone on a 'selfie' stick?)

From the pics I can find the 24mm plug looks like this:










And the 22mm plug looks like this:


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

You can see my confusion! Haha!

I just had a live chat with ECS who told me the correct parts for my manual 6 speed were as indicated in this service “kit”









Manual Transmission Service Kit


Featuring 3 Quarts of OEM VW G052 manual trans fluid & OEM Drain & Fill Plugs to service your transmission. M24x1.5




www.ecstuning.com





The kit contents seems to include the 24x29 seal N0438092 and the plugs 24x1.5 N90917801. They obviously seem to go together but the exploded view lists a 22mm plug?

Are these plugs visible from underneath without removing inspection covers etc? - a trip back to my friendly garage with a ramp might be in order…..again. Why o why is it so troublesome to identify the correct part from Audi  

Go figure……


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Well, the fill/drain plot thickens. Phoned Audi again and they checked my reg/chassis etc and came back with the part number from the exploded online catalogue listed as N10037105 that I originally found. I mentioned to them that I’d been looking at the online parts catalogue and that the diagram showed a part 25 which appears to be a sealing washer.

He said that the plug was the correct part for my chassis for both fill and drain and that they are 22x1.5 and that although the exploded view shows a seal washer, there actually isn’t one listed for my chassis as they are self sealing plugs, hence no description or listing of part 25 for my car - even thought it’s shown in the exploded view.

Audi also confirmed that the plugs have an Allen key type removal vs the security key type pictured on the larger 24x1.5 plug above. Again, this appears to confirm the correct part is indeed N10037105.

Odd why ECS were adamant that the 24x1.5 plug and washer was the correct part/s, but I think I’ll go with the advice of my local Audi dealership parts department!

I’m not entirely sure, but I think the confusion may have something to do with the DSG box……..I think that uses a different plug and may well be the larger one with the sealing washer.


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

As mentioned previously, the 22mm plug appears to be self-sealing as the angle behind the plug's head looks to be a flare fitting.








FWIW, _“time is money_” and plugs are cheap. I'd order both so your ready for whatever you find.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s not a bad idea at all…….


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just a quick question, I’m just shopping for brake fluid and wondered how much I need to get to perform a fluid change? - I’ve spotted genuine VAG stuff dot4 1 litre bottles p/n B000750M3

Is this the right stuff, and if so, how much should I buy?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steveiejones133* - Did you look through the Workshop Manuals in the KB for this information? There's one for the *Brake System* and a *Quick Reference Spec* which I believe has all the torque values and fluid capacities.

* • Brake System - RG 45 46 47 - D3E8006C71C
• Audi TT Quick Reference Specification Book*


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I hadn’t, but I’ve just had a quick look to see if I could find the correct info and came across this table in the quick reference booklet - 1 litre for the brake fluid then? - seems the p/n I’ve been looking at is correct.
I had read somewhere that it takes 1.15l so I guess I should buy two bottles to be on the safe side, right?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would think 2 litres would be plenty for a complete brake fluid flush. Even if the 3.2 calipers are a bit larger than the 2.0, they're not THAT much larger in terms of fluid capacity.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks, I’ll buy two bottles of B000750M3 now


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Well, my gearbox oil landed today, all well and good, genuine sealed Audi stuff. Upon closer inspection, something struck me as slightly odd. The bottles have a date mark on the neck - manufacture date - on the reverse of the bottle there is a note about shelf life being 4 years from the manufacture date.

Now, the thing that strikes me as odd, and rather comical, is the fact that Audi says that these are “lifetime” fluids that don’t need changing, however, they deem it fit to state on the bottle that it ”won’t last past 4 years” if it’s in a sealed bottle!!!

Its bizarre that they say that gearbox oil that is actually ”in use” in a working gearbox will last forever, but if it’s in a sealed bottle on the shelf at some dealership, damn…..gotta throw that stuff away as it’ll have “gone off”


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

That's great 

You should ask for a discount. Tell them unless the oil is 'fresh squeezed', some of the oil's usable life has been wasted on the shelf. And since you won't get the full value due to the oil short life, price should be adjusted accordingly...


----------



## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

Steviejones133 said:


> Well, my gearbox oil landed today, all well and good, genuine sealed Audi stuff. Upon closer inspection, something struck me as slightly odd. The bottles have a date mark on the neck - manufacture date - on the reverse of the bottle there is a note about shelf life being 4 years from the manufacture date.
> 
> Now, the thing that strikes me as odd, and rather comical, is the fact that Audi says that these are “lifetime” fluids that don’t need changing, however, they deem it fit to state on the bottle that it ”won’t last past 4 years” if it’s in a sealed bottle!!!
> 
> Its bizarre that they say that gearbox oil that is actually ”in use” in a working gearbox will last forever, but if it’s in a sealed bottle on the shelf at some dealership, damn…..gotta throw that stuff away as it’ll have “gone off”


Sounds like some regulatory bollocks! My local cheese maker ages his cheddar for 15 months but then is forced to put a 90-day “eat before” date on it…


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Quick update from me. I’ve got all my parts ready with the exception of the relevant fill & drain plugs. I went to my local VW dealer today to try and confirm correct parts for the front & rear diff plugs and gearbox. We know the haldex part numbers are correct.

I was given different numbers for the plugs for the front and rear diff, although I think we thought they were the same and same as the fill plug on the haldex - N90281802.

Gave then my reg number and they came back to me with same part for front final drive but a different one for rear final drive - *02M409057*

See pics below - 5 & 4 in the first pic are obviously haldex drain and fill. 6 I’ve been told is the fill & drain for the rear final drive?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

So, does anyone have any idea about this “new” part number for the rear final drive fill & drain plugs? - obviously completely different to what we had thought, but the Audi pictures above seem to be correct, but so do the other exploded views posted earlier. Confusing yet again!

At least, the above shows we’ve got the gearbox fill and drain correct!


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Obviously the best way to identify which plug you need is to visually ID the part yourself, but short of that, if the VW dealer used your VIN to look-up parts then I would take their word on it.

Worse possible case, you find that you have to reuse you old drain plug (which is most likely perfectly fine / reusable).


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, so this now driving me nuts…..literally, no pun intended.

I picked up today what VW Audi said were correct. Seems they’ve got some right, but something struck me as glaringly wrong. The rear diff plugs. I was told that these were 02M409057

Now, below are some pics of the haldex fill plug in comparison to what they told me was the fill and drain for the rear final drive. They are magnetic and seem pretty much 22mm or the same size as the plugs for the gearbox.

I can’t get under the car to check but does this strike anyone as being odd having such large plugs for the rear final drive? - are they normally magnetic?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

The plug shown at the top of your image is what I expected p/n 02M409057 to look like (performed a Google image search using p/n) however the plug at the bottom of your image looks like both the fill & drain plugs on my final drive.

That said, I have a 2011 TTS and you have a 2007 3.2 so there very well could be changes made over time.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Weird. I’ve got 3 of the smaller ones (haldex fill, front final drive fill & drain all the same as each other) and I’ve got the correct larger drain for the haldex. Two silver 22mm ones for the gearbox with tapered seat and Allen key removal as posted by you earlier……and now these two large black magnetic ones which they say are for the rear final drive.


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

When it's all said and done, you will be the forum's resident expert on drain & fill plugs


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ain’t that the gods truth!


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

It’s only me again! - had my car serviced yesterday, major service at a VW dealer. All the normal changing of plugs etc was fine, but then they hit me with a host of work needing attention including the following

Coolant leak from bottom of radiator - £531.24 to fix
Both front drop link rubber dust covers damaged £187.42 to fix

if it needs doing it needs doing, I don’t mind that. What I do need some advice on is if these parts can be inspected with a vehicle inspection report.

I had RAC do a comprehensive report before buying the car, I’ve had the car around 4 months but done around 600m since the report.

Im kind of peeved that the RAC inspection didn’t pick up on these things, are they things that can’t easily be seen? - are they covered by underbody cover panels?

I’m raising my concern with RAC who did the vehicle inspection ata a cost of £250, surely they should have picked up on these things but their report didn’t. It mentioned weak coolant, which now to me links with coolant loss and previous owner topping up with water, but no leak researched.

Any advise truly appreciated.

On a side note, got the car booked in with Audi for a full haldex service including the filter I bought and the primer primer pump gasket repair kit including the white haldex pump screen and bolts. They’re even gonna pick my car up, do the work and deliver it back to me for only £20


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

A coolant leak isn't a surprise on a car this old. Both my radiator and temp gauge went back in 2019. Thankfully the techs caught it when I went in and asked for a radiator flush. Of course they said "No need, it's lifetime..." but I insisted. Thankfully they caught it as there was no obvious indication such as a smell or loss of coolant in the bottle. It was a very small leak that had developed over time and was sort of sealing itself. It was nearly impossible to see as it's all covered up with the plastic shrouding.








3.2 V-R6 100,000-km Radiator Failure


Yesterday I dropped off my 2007 Roadster for the Haldex oil and filter replacement and asked them to clean the plastic screen on the Haldex pump while they were at it. I had the transmission fluid done at 60,000-km and the Haldex too, but like most shops, the one I used at that time didn't...




www.ttforum.co.uk





So yeah, it happens.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I get that Swiss, things go pear shaped and that’s a given. Question is, can a rad coolant leak be visible at the bottom of the rad without removing panels to inspect? - same goes for the drop link rubbers.

I paid £250 for a full inspection before I bought the car and these faults weren’t picked up. The car has only done a few hundred miles since the report so I’m wondering who’s at fault here……the inspection for not picking it up as it’s now an expensive repair!

At this point, I’m being told I need a new radiator, I don’t even know if could be a cheaper fix….


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That's really hard to say. I don't know if they put it up on a lift and pulled the under pan trays or not, but even then, it could be possible to miss if the leak was like mine. If it was a leak on the seam, halfway in the middle, it would be very hard to see due to the plastic shrouds. Maybe the lesson learned is next time you pay that kind of money, stick around and follow them if they'll let you in the service bay. It's easy for they to say, "It wasn't there when we checked" and in all fairness, maybe it wasn't...tricky that.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

What about the front drop links? Are they visible without removing underside covers?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This may give you and idea of what you can and can't see with the belly pans on. Now if you can prove they didn't remove the belly pans, then I would be having a serious conversation with them as there's a lot they wouldn't be able to see with them in place.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s brilliant Swiss, thanks mate. I will be having words with them!!


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Major service carried out at VW Wrexham. Slight change of plan as providing my own plugs, filters etc didn’t really work out much cheaper than VW providing them so I’ve kept my parts for my next independent service. All in for major service and brake fluid change was £408.00, it was gonna be £355 labour only so made sense to keep my parts.

VW would only change the haldex oil, even though I showed them schematics and took my haldex filter down to them physically to see but they wouldn’t budge - fortunately, my nearest Audi dealer (Inchcape Cheshire Oaks) have agreed to replace the haldex filter during the service with me providing the filter. They’ve also agreed to remove the primer pump and replace the small white screen filter and replace with the contents including in the primer pump gasket repair kit which they are providing.

£79 for the actual haldex service, half hours labour to do the pump (£63 😲) but they are gonna do a few other little bits such as securing the under body pans and OSF wheel arch liner at no extra cost.

They are also gonna collect and return the car for £20 - I thought this was amazing as I’m probably about 30 miles away from the dealership.

She goes in 7th January.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

From what other Forum members have posted in the past, I get the impression many UK Audi Service centers have a bit of an attitude. They seem to think their customers are all posh idiots who barely know where the fuel goes in.

The Audi service where I used to have mine done recently changed service managers. The previous guy was super nice and really looked after my TT. Unfortunately the guy who replaced him is one of those "_I know more about your car than you do!_" types which I thought was pretty funny considering he came over from a Volvo dealership. So it was time to move on.

Fortunately I noticed a tricked-out Mk1 always parked out front of a local shop (it's a general automotive repair place, not VAG specific) and I made a point to drop by and find out who the owner was. She turned out to be a very competent mechanic and I specifically ask for her to work on my TT. Needless to say, if you want a mechanic who cares about your car and will listen, try find one that drives the same car you do.

One other suggestion - if you don't have your own OBDII scanner and rely on shops to work on your car, get in the habit of asking them for a printed copy of the OBDII auto scan before they start the work and another after they're finished. And tell them you want the replaced parts back too. *Trust but confirm! *


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I don't know if it's been mentioned yet but I would recommend the Purflux brand of oil filter. It has the zigzag pattern on it rather than straight filter pattern. 

You will also see on the oil filter housing the Purflux logo. 









Oil Filter - Priced Each


It is recommended to change your filter during every oil service




www.ecstuning.com


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Finally got my haldex service done yesterday, resorted to an Audi main dealer who agreed to changer the filter provided by myself and also change the strainer on the pump…..well, got the first but done but they said the pump was seized on and they didn’t want to damage it by removing as apparently it was working fine with no faults. They wanted £488 to change it for a new pump if they damaged the one in situ (which I’d imagine they would have said would have happened) so I declined and just had the oil and filter changed. 80k and never been done according to my service book so just glad it’s done now.

Actually, the oil didn’t look that bad, but what do I know! - filter was fairly black as can be seen from the photos below - I asked for the removed parts to be kept for me.


























Now, onto the bad…….

They broke the drivers electric seat control panel trim - flopping about near the pivot for the backrest, the DIS display panel has gone up the wall and the OSF wheel arch liner they were supposed to resecure was still flopping about.



































I tried calling the dealership but they had closed so I’ve phoned Audi UK and raised a complaint.

Quite shocking, but I wouldn’t mind betting they’ve just thought it’s a 14yr old car, who gives a stuff……..


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@* Steviejones133 - *You really need to find a good shop that will service the Haldex properly. If that plastic screen on the pump gets blocked, it will cause the pump to fail. Its a 15-Euro part which can wipe out a 250-Euro part.I don't know where you live, but you may want to see if you can book an appointment with *Haldex Parts and ECU Repair shop*.(Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd – Haldex Mail order parts and ECU repair services). He is THE go to guy for Haldex and won't screw you over like Audi will.

*Gen4 Haldex pump and screen*


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, I appreciate that - it’s why I had ordered the primer pump gasket repair kit and Audi were going to fit it but said the pump was stuck on. If I insisted on them trying to remove, I’d have been at their mercy and £488 lighter. They did say that the pump was working fine which was another reason they said that they didn’t want to force the pump off and damage it in the process…….


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

how does a main dealer end up breaking so many things / leaving parts unsecure!!!?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> how does a main dealer end up breaking so many things / leaving parts unsecure!!!?


Tell me about it…..not what I was expecting at all.


----------



## jacksosi (8 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> And finally, give the top a good pre-winter clean and run some silicone treatment around the door, window and trunk seals so they don't freeze up and stick. Personally I like Nigrin Gummi-Pflegestift for this.


I have just used some of this, I was expecting it to be oily/silcone-like but it was actually very watery, is that correct? Cheers


----------



## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Yes.


----------



## jacksosi (8 mo ago)

tttony said:


> Yes.


ok, cheers!


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Steviejones133 said:


> Yeah, I appreciate that - it’s why I had ordered the primer pump gasket repair kit and Audi were going to fit it but said the pump was stuck on. If I insisted on them trying to remove, I’d have been at their mercy and £488 lighter. They did say that the pump was working fine which was another reason they said that they didn’t want to force the pump off and damage it in the process…….


Correct me if I'm wrong but do you not have to use VCS to dissengage the pump before it can be removed?
I only state this from what I've read as have not done pump filter myself.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

benckj said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but do you not have to use VCS to dissengage the pump before it can be removed?
> I only state this from what I've read as have not done pump filter myself.


I don’t think VCDS is required to physically remove the pump, it might be required to initialise a new one though. Not sure, but as I wasn’t doing it myself and was asking Audi to do it, I’m sure they would (or have hoped) that they would know how to do it…

Sure, you can use the likes of VCDS/OBDEleven to test pump functionality whilst in situ, but I don’t think it’s a prerequisite to remove or replace - @GetYerTTsOut would tell you after his ordeal removing a seized haldex pump:









2009 2.0 TFSI Quattro - Gen4 Haldex Pump Bolts Snapped...


Was changing my haldex pump today on my TTS and the bolts were so badly corroded they seized when trying to loosen them. It's the two m4 bolts that hold the pump to the casing. The bolts snapped about 4mm down from the cap of the bolt so now I have a countersunk thread left holding the old pump...




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

benckj said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but do you not have to use VCS to dissengage the pump before it can be removed?
> I only state this from what I've read as have not done pump filter myself.


No, VCDS is not required to remove the pump. Removal simply requires disconnecting a plug and removing two screws (maybe easier that it sounds if your undercarriage is corroded...)

However you can use VCDS to enable the pump to help push out a stuck filter if you are having trouble getting a grip on the plastic spacer. Still, if you are replacing the whole kit it is easier to drive a wood screw into the spacer and use it to pull out the filter / spacer assembly (assuming it's even a problem)

You will want to use VCDS (or similar) to cycle the pump off / on / off several times after replacing your Haldex fluid to remove air without burning up the motor.


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

FNChaos said:


> You will want to use VCDS (or similar) to cycle the pump off / on / off several times after replacing your Haldex fluid to remove air without burning up the motor.


Probably good advice although I've never done before when changing oil. I would think there would be enough residue in pump to prevent any damage but certainly better to prime using motor run. What is the VCS block used to access Haldex pump for doing this?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Old post here -









How To: Haldex Gen4 Guide


This guide was written by Matt from Auto Fault Finder www.haldexrepairs.co.uk and his Facebook page is under the name "Auto Fault Finder". The original thread, with any on-going other posts is here: http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1496577 Applicable Vehicles - Generation...




www.ttforum.co.uk





*How to Replace the Gen4 Haldex Filter using VCDS -*

1.) Remove cover from filter housing via the 2 Allen bolts. Pull cover off with slip joint pliers.

2.) Clean any salt around the edge of the white nylon retainer using pointed item such as Stanley blade. Do not damage the aluminum housing!

3.) Put oil drain tray underneath the filter/pump assembly.

4.) Connect laptop with VAGCOM/VCDS to car

5.) Turn on ignition.

6.) Select "AWD Unit 22" from the "Select Control Module" page.

7.) Select "Output Tests - 03", then keep clicking "Start / Next" until you see "Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) Activate", then click again. The pump should run, will see a current value in amps in the measure block increase from 0.00 to maybe 2.00.

8.) When you can hear the oil drizzling into the drain tray, then turn off the ignition.

9.) Now go back under the car, the filter retainer will be sticking out by approximately 10mm.

10.) You can now pull the white nylon filter retaining spindle out with some pliers/grips.

11.) Now fish out the freely moving filter cartridge from the hole, maybe use some long nose pliers if your fingers cannot grab it.

12.) Clean out any debris from the housing with blue roll etc.









If the filter remains stuck or if you don't have a VCDS, here's the old "wood screw in the filter" trick as described by *FNChaos*. More about how to do it in this YouTube *video* -


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Good write up and post, thank you. Guess the obvious question is how do I tell if I have a gen4 Haldex and how often does the pump filter need changing? 
From my Mk1 experience I changed the Haldex oil every 20k (km's) and filter every 40k.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The Gen2 and Gen4 filter covers are quite different as shown below. The Gen2 filter cap just screws on. The Gen4 filter cap has two small screws. Should be pretty easy to tell just by looking.

Maintenance schedule is posted below. I found it interesting that after 2006, Audi completely dropped the filters even thought they are still there.


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Thats interesting.

Soooo.... to understand generations of Haldex units;.. 
Gen 1= < pre 2006 ??
Gen 2= 2006
Gen 3= ??
Gen 4= > 2007
Gen 5= > 2010 ??

My 2004 Mk1 must be a Gen 1 as the filter housing looks completely different than the one shown above. I need to dig out some info on the pump & filter sock as I'm sure this was never done.


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Mk1’s were 1st gen haldex as per pics below. Mk2’s use gen 2 from 2006 to 2009/10 before facelift Mk2, however, some pre facelifts can be fitted with gen 4 as recently seen on @GetYerTTsOut thread about his seized pump. There is a gen 3 but it is not for Audi, more so for Volvo and other marques.


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

By that margin my new 2007 Mk2 will have the Haldex gen 2 filter, etc. Guess I won't need the spare gen 1 filter or using that special tool to remove & install. From the looks above the securing cap must pry off using a screw driver and then filter pops free?


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

benckj said:


> Thats interesting.
> 
> Soooo.... to understand generations of Haldex units;..
> Gen 1= < pre 2006 ??
> ...


I guess some older Mk1 TTs w/Haldex would be on 1st Gen Haldex, yeah. I'm not that familiar with Mk1s TBH but I would have to imagine they had 2nd Gen Haldex from some year after 2001 as that's when Gen 2 debuted (not sure what make or model car had it first, but that's when Haldex Traction started making it).

Mk2s, if they are pre-facelift, they are going to be 2nd Gen Haldex. Facelift TTs will be 4th Gen. This creates the unique situation for the VR6 in that only one or two model years (depending on which country you live in) would there be a VR6 w/4th Gen. These are regarded as relatively rare cars, whether we're talking A3 or TT--3.2L w/4th Gen Haldex is not common.

3rd Gen Haldex was not used on any VAG vehicles. This was used in Land Rovers, Volvos, and possibly other makes, but no Audis or VWs. So, it's not pertinent here.

4th Gen is as mentioned--pretty much transverse VAG cars with quattro/4motion from MY09-MY15 (exact year range varies by country but basically all PQ35 cars from CY09 and on). Note that Saab implemented a highly customised version of this system called XWD, which debuted in the Turbo-X which uses more features of the Haldex controller plus implements a rear eLSD. This is actually quite an advanced system compared to ours, despite being based off the same generation of centre coupling. VAG cars didn't even utilise all the features of the 4th Gen system--it's able to integrate with the ESC/yaw sensors as well but VAG did not implement this functionality. 

The key advantages of the 4th gen system are quicker response time due to both the improved electric pump motor and the addition of the accumulator. Also the system is more pre-emptive or "pro active" than the 2nd Gen system, working more to prevent [front] wheel slip before it occurs.

5th Gen you woudl not see in VAG cars until models based on MQB, which includes the Mk3 TT. The 5th Gen system actually _removes_ the accumulator the 4th gen added as other improvements (according to Haldex/BW) did away with the need for it. Whether this is actually true or not is debatable. When 5th gen debuted there were actually many saying they "cheaped out" with it and it's actually inferior to Gen 4. There was even a video of two same XC60s, one with the older 4th gen and another with the newer 5th, in a "tug of war". The 4th gen appeared superior--you can probably still find this video on YT. However that said, for VAG cars, they finally implemented features like ESC awareness/2-way comm with it, which improves driving overall with the system in MQB cars, even if the strict "driving four wheels" aspect is possibly inferior. 

Of note, they also did away with the filter in 5th gens, meaning the only filter is now the screen on the pump. This is almost universally regarded as a poor design choice. Another thing is many early MQB cars with the system had Haldex failures--far more common than on earlier Haldex cars. However later cars with the same system with component revisions, etc. were fine. Cars that were repaired under warranty, most of them would have the newer and less failure-prone parts. 

Now you know, most of what I know, about the Haldex gens lol. Edit: On another note there will be no more "generations" of "Haldex". As Haldex was bought out by BW years ago they have essentially dropped the name altogether, instead using other BW names for any newer generations. However it should be mentioned that the latest MQB cars like the Mk8 Golf R and 8Y RS3 are no longer using BW systems for AWD. Instead they are using a Magna system.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Gen2 uses a wrench as the filter cover is threaded. Don't try to pry it off!


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Got it. Excellent history lesson on Haldex and I notice threads on filter cap now for gen 2 versions.

When I get my new car delivered at Christmas I'll put it up on some ramps and investigate what I have. Nice to do my homework now and get prepared as obtaining parts over the holidays here is virtually impossible.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

When I had mine done by the local Audi Service Center, I had the DSG transmission, Haldex and Final drive fluids/filters all done at one go. Well worth the investment.


----------



## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Of note, they also did away with the filter in 5th gens, meaning the only filter is now the screen on the pump.


My question is, do Audi at least recognise the pump screen needs cleaning/servicing on the 5th gen or do they still consider the pump as dispensable ?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> My question is, do Audi at least recognise the pump screen needs cleaning/servicing on the 5th gen or do they still consider the pump as dispensable ?


To be honest, I very much doubt it. Audi don’t seem to recognise the pre filter on the pump as a serviceable item for ANY Haldex system, regardless of gen 1,2,4 or 5. It’s hard enough trying to get Audi to recognise the normal haldex filter requires service, let alone removing the pump to service the pre filter…..fortunately, gen 5 is mk3…..


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> My question is, do Audi at least recognise the pump screen needs cleaning/servicing on the 5th gen or do they still consider the pump as dispensable ?


Not sure that Audi does per se but a good tech working on a car would know. However getting the pump out, as we all know, can be a different story. Sometimes the pump is in there so good that unless it has actually failed, some shops/mechanics may not want to try to force it out in fear of breaking the casing. I'm not sure if this is a common problem on 5th gens, though.


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I've only owned my TT for 4 years and even with the extensive research I've done on maintenance items, never came across the pump filter shown above. As mentioned, most Audi Technicians or even competent European mechanics rarely know about the external Haldex filter so doubt they know or care about the pump filter.

I may be wrong but sort of think if you maintain the Haldex by changing oil and filter at the specified intervals the pump filtration sock will be fine. With the car I've purchased having 67k kms on the clock and full documentation showing Haldex oil and filter being replaced recently I won't stress about pulling pump to check. Maybe another 20-30k and I'll have a look at it.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *benckj* - Interesting story about why Audi techs don't know about it. It has to do with how the service manuals and parts lists were written. Link *here*.

@ *Steviejones133* - Actually Audi did include oil and filter changes in the 2006 schedule, but dropped it after that. You'll notice in 2007 they didn't even mention the TT, only the A3, but added the TT again in 2008.

Audi...


----------



## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Interesting stuff. Starting to make sense now.
Thanks for info. Mr Mod.


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *benckj* - Interesting story about why Audi techs don't know about it. It has to do with how the service manuals and parts lists were written. Link *here*.
> 
> @ *Steviejones133* - Actually Audi did include oil and filter changes in the 2006 schedule, but dropped it after that. You'll notice in 2007 they didn't even mention the TT, only the A3, but added the TT again in 2008.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty sure they updated those schedules at some point as well, no? Like _in_ 2008 I don't think the Haldex service was even on there. Later on they added it (retroactively) to the schedule. So if you look up the revised schedules it's there but if you had a copy/manual from 2008 I'm pretty sure it's not there. I could be mistaken but I'm pretty sure in NA at least, the Haldex service originally appeared for Tiguans on the VW side, and then was added to the Audi schedules later.

Maybe I'm dreaming but I do remember having a conversation with a VAG specialist shop guy (where I sometimes buy parts) about this very thing. How Audi, at first, was ignoring the item. It would have been more pertinent to anyone with Audi Care* in those years since it would have not been done I think. I think the first owner of my TT had Audi Care on the car and this service _was_ done on it once under the first owner (I can't tell if it was under Care for sure as I don't have the $ amounts paid only the service records of what was done).

However that would have been in like 2015 in my car's case. 

*As a note Audi Care is what they call the pre-paid maintenance package over here, it could be called something different in other countries. It basically covers all maintenance items for the first 4yrs/80k km if you buy it at the time you buy/lease the car.


----------

