# 3.2 timing chain replacement recommendations



## TimH86 (Jan 29, 2018)

Looking at getting my timing chains changed. Any recommendations in the north west area?


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

No recommendations as different part of the country but just paid £2200 ish for mine using genuine parts with 2 year guarantee. That includes minor service, flywheel (whilst auto box was off) and installing cruise control. Hopefully give you an idea on costs


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## chivvyp (Jun 20, 2014)

Kryton said:


> No recommendations as different part of the country but just paid £2200 ish for mine using genuine parts with 2 year guarantee. That includes minor service, flywheel (whilst auto box was off) and installing cruise control. Hopefully give you an idea on costs


That seems a good deal! Can you say who did it?

Pete


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

Yeah sure. It was one of the better prices local to me. They do 2 to 3 chains per week apparently so I guess they've got in the swing of it so the labour is cheaper. They told me 2 days but ended up taking a week but apparently had people of sick. Here's their site:
http://www.gottsservicecentre.co.uk/


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Out of curiosity, is it an engine out job?


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## TTorBust (Mar 8, 2018)

Yes, and most people get the clutch done at the same time. So in some ways you could deduct the cost of the clutch replacement from the bill, in your mindset, making camchain replacement a slight less bitter pill to swallow!


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## scottnybottny123 (Jul 19, 2011)

Recently had mine done too, total bill came in at £3500. I'd not long had the car and it came with little service history. In addition to the chains and new clutch (including flywheel) I had the head removed, stripped down for a full chemical cleaning, replaced both cam adjusters with new OEM parts (£500 each) and new plugs, oil and filter. The cam sprockets are only available from VW and were just as worn as the other sprockets. Garage told me that most do not change these but I'm glad they were done.

I'm based in the Midlands but the garage used was Heath Mill in Himley if it's of use to anyone else local.


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## scottnybottny123 (Jul 19, 2011)

silkman said:


> Out of curiosity, is it an engine out job?


Garage told me that on a mk4 platform car it's engine out to split the box off. On a mk5 the can drop just the box to gain access.


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

I'm still annoyed mine needed doing so soon. I was aware of needing it at some point as knew about the chains before getting one but mines got full Audi main dealer service history and 80k on the clock so I expected at least 20k more out of it. I did the VCDS measuring blocks myself before booking it in so not even like I had to take the word of the garage before getting my pants pulled down [smiley=freak.gif]


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## TTorBust (Mar 8, 2018)

Seeing prices of £3,000 has totally put me off a 3.2 but then I thought I'm spending £400 every 5 years for cam belt and water pump and a potental £1000 for a new clutch every 15 years.
So with a 1.8 you might end up spending £2,200 for 3 belt changes and a clutch and there's still the potential for a Turbo to let go.

All of a sudden running a 3.2 sounds as cheap as chips and I don't know what all this camchain fuss is about (just trying to put some gloss on it)


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## scottnybottny123 (Jul 19, 2011)

Kryton said:


> I'm still annoyed mine needed doing so soon. I was aware of needing it at some point as knew about the chains before getting one but mines got full Audi main dealer service history and 80k on the clock so I expected at least 20k more out of it. I did the VCDS measuring blocks myself before booking it in so not even like I had to take the word of the garage before getting my pants pulled down [smiley=freak.gif]


I bought mine with the measurements both at -9! It was a scary journey home but I did have the price reduced on purchase price after a 4hr train journey to see the car. Upon test driving it was impossible to tell that the adjustment was so close to the limit. Now that the work has been done it certainly does seem a lot more eager and really pulls whilst accelerating. Lets hope this'll see me through to 200k miles before needing to be done again. At this rate it'll be 20years before I get to that mileage so plenty of time to save up.


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Reading this thread I decided to call my VAG indie guys who look after my 3.2 DSG. All they work on is Audi VW brand and they said the need for chains is extremely rare, providing the car has had frequent servicing.
Just putting some context into the fear that we 3.2 owners all share re cam chains. That said, they are machines after all so I just have the same risk (and concern) as others. I guess it's the same risk as Boxster owners share with IMS bearing concerns.
For my 3000 miles a year I'll carry on.....


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## scottnybottny123 (Jul 19, 2011)

My car came with very little service history and removing the rocker cover it was apparent from all the sludge that it hadn't been well maintained. Regular servicing will surely help toward increasing the interval until another chain replacement is required but for peace of mind checking the cam adjustment values is worthwhile.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Kryton said:


> I'm still annoyed mine needed doing so soon. I was aware of needing it at some point as knew about the chains before getting one but mines got full Audi main dealer service history and 80k on the clock so I expected at least 20k more out of it. I did the VCDS measuring blocks myself before booking it in so not even like I had to take the word of the garage before getting my pants pulled down [smiley=freak.gif]


Out of interest , what were your VCDS readings?
Unless the engine really hadn't been looked after , 80K seems a low figure to have chain problems?
Or is that normal for these engines?


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

Mine were at full stretch. I believe one was showing -9 as above (which is weird as everywhere i've read gives readings of 8 to -8) and the other was at -7.

Most places were stating to expect to do it around 120k but as with everything, if you look for long enough, you hear some stories of 40k and other of 200k but most certainly seem to be 120 ish. I think the mk2 had a different chain fitted from factory with was less prone to stretch but don't quote me on that as most of my knowledge is Jeep (due to breaking loads) and Mitsubishis (due to modifying loads)


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Kryton said:


> Mine were at full stretch. I believe one was showing -9 as above (which is weird as everywhere i've read gives readings of 8 to -8) and the other was at -7.
> 
> Most places were stating to expect to do it around 120k but as with everything, if you look for long enough, you hear some stories of 40k and other of 200k but most certainly seem to be 120 ish. I think the mk2 had a different chain fitted from factory with was less prone to stretch but don't quote me on that as most of my knowledge is Jeep (due to breaking loads) and Mitsubishis (due to modifying loads)


Thanks for the info!
I just can't make up my mind whether to go for a 225 or a V6 , and must admit these tales of repair bills in the thousands terrify me!
I do want to get one that is mint though so hopefully I can find a low mileage V6 with no chain issues .
I guess that if you check with VCDS and all the measuring blocks are at the lower end of the tolerances that means there's quite a bit of life left in the chains , or can they still "go" without much warning?


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

They will gradually stretch so if you measure and they are at -3 for arguments sake, it will have plenty of life left in it. It's down to how long you keep the car as getting belts changed and chasing boost leaks, plus rebuilding turbos can add up. I would personally drive both and see which you prefer. If you prefer the v6, then get readings before you buy the car or find one that's already had the work done. If you intend on chasing big numbers power wise then get the turbo. If you want a smoother delivery then get the v6. I wanted auto so my decision was easy as v6 was only option here


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Kryton said:


> They will gradually stretch so if you measure and they are at -3 for arguments sake, it will have plenty of life left in it. It's down to how long you keep the car as getting belts changed and chasing boost leaks, plus rebuilding turbos can add up. I would personally drive both and see which you prefer. If you prefer the v6, then get readings before you buy the car or find one that's already had the work done. If you intend on chasing big numbers power wise then get the turbo. If you want a smoother delivery then get the v6. I wanted auto so my decision was easy as v6 was only option here


Thanks, I just can't make up my mind!
It sounds like regular checking with VCDS will help to identify when the chain is stretching , which is good to know .....
Cheers


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

Yep sure is. I think it's blocks 208 & 209 if I remember correctly. Only way to tell is drive. Don't over research as you can find horror stories about any car online if you look for long enough. It's like the old jd power survey. Toyota and Skoda use to do brilliantly as they were all owned by old people that had the time to fill the surveys in. BMW were owned by reps without time on their hands so only filled them in if had issues and were peed off. People post problems, not the thousands with hassle free motoring so gives unrealistic results


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Kryton said:


> Only way to tell is drive. Don't over research as you can find horror stories about any car online if you look for long enough. It's like the old jd power survey. Toyota and Skoda use to do brilliantly as they were all owned by old people that had the time to fill the surveys in. BMW were owned by reps without time on their hands so only filled them in if had issues and were peed off. *People post problems, not the thousands with hassle free motoring so gives unrealistic results*


+1 on those comments! We can end up with real phobias when we research too much on line. And I would never look up health related issues on the web! Would feed my paranoia! 
Bottom line is these are machines; Audi is a quality brand and German engineering is up there with the best, so yes, things can go wrong, (and it can be expensive if they do)....but any older performance car needs maintenance and repair...you takes your chances, as they say.
Just do the usual due diligence, never buy unseen, test drive and listen for any engine or transmission rattles. That's about all you can do. Drive and enjoy...the TTs are great value for money. A nice V6 should be no more than £5,000. Same as a fortnight in Disneyland then. Which would you rather have?


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Good points made by all , thanks  .
Too much internet reading can be a bad thing :lol:


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