# Door Micro Switch



## dzTT (Mar 11, 2009)

Can anyone tell me/point me in the right direction for getting the micro switch for the door. Ive tried the links on the thread on it and none of them are opening for me.
Im hoping to start it at the weekend maybe even during the week if works quiet, what rating of switch am i going to need etc.

Cheers

Dazz


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## wul (Feb 10, 2009)

Daz get in touch with garvie,I'm sure he has done this and it only cost him a few quid.think it was a few bits out of marlin.pm him if you don't get a reply I,ll give him a call for ye


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## BelfasTT (Nov 30, 2008)

I got one from maplin £2.10 I'll try and find the part number. Fitted it 8 months ago using the how to thread.


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## BelfasTT (Nov 30, 2008)

Think it was N96AQ. The old switch had damaged the plastic cam so I could not use a button type switch. So i bought the switch with the level attached but then cut back and bent the level to suit the position on the cam.


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## tteireann (Jan 2, 2008)

try this link:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=usb&ModuleNo=34835&C=SO&U=Strat15

Its worth a shot as Microswitches aren't cheap and I see little point in purchasing a secondhand one as its more than likely to be faulty too. I'm going to give this ago on the weekend. £4 and kettle on..... sounds like a cheap weekend!


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## dzTT (Mar 11, 2009)

Thanks all, ill head off to Maplin on the way back from work tonite. Hopefully it wont be to bad a job :lol:

Dazz


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## whitty (May 17, 2002)

Fairly detailed explanation here - http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1929857

Door card removal is P.O.P - remove the one long bolt from under the handle circular cover (twist to remove cover)

Lift up the door card & unhook the door release cable

Oh - you'll also need a 8mm (I think) 12 star key to remove the locking mech from the door :wink:


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## BelfasTT (Nov 30, 2008)

You will need wire cutters, soldering iron, solder and (super) glue. And yes the bolts which hold the door lock in place are star but I found that a suitable sized Allen key worked ok - which you are more likely to have in the garage?


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## dzTT (Mar 11, 2009)

Thanks for that guys. ive got plenty of the Torx screwdrivers as most of the stuff i work on at work require them.
Thanks for the guide whitty. Priceless avatar aswell :lol:


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## Garvie (Jan 21, 2005)

PM sent Darron [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Garvie (Jan 21, 2005)

I used the lever microswitch on the attached link.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34835

I actually bought a few different sizes to see which was best. I opted for the one above due to it being a similar size to the original. However, because the mounting holes do not line up, I had to drill a couple of holes through the lock mech housing and bolted the new switch into place. I then soldered a couple of crimps onto the connection wires so that I can easily replace the switch if it ever fails again.

All of the above sounds more complicated than it actually was. The most complicated part was figuring out the best orientation for the new switch so that the cam always operated it on opening and closing the door. I also snipped about 3mm off the end of the lever due to it being slightly too long.

The door has worked perfect ever since.

Gies a shout if you need any more info.

Cheers

Alan


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## sciamo (Feb 4, 2010)

I cut a 20mm x 5mm strip of plastic from some packaging I had in the house, superglued it at one end on to the OEM switch, put it back together and its worked perfectly since.


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## Garvie (Jan 21, 2005)

sciamo said:


> I cut a 20mm x 5mm strip of plastic from some packaging I had in the house, superglued it at one end on to the OEM switch, put it back together and its worked perfectly since.


I tried that too, but my switch was well and truly f*****!! so it didn't work


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## whitty (May 17, 2002)

sciamo said:


> I cut a 20mm x 5mm strip of plastic from some packaging I had in the house, superglued it at one end on to the OEM switch, put it back together and its worked perfectly since.


Screwball container for me - job done!!


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Hi All,
I know this link is a little old now, but it was just the business for helping me to fix my Drivers Door micro switch.

I'm new to the TT (5 weeks in... still loving it). When I bought the car, I found that the window drop/lift, along with all the other sensing, that tells the car that the door is open (clock & speedo light up, door open symbol when keys in ignition, the buzzer when lights left on.) to be a bit intermitent. It last a week, being hit n miss, then stopped all together. Having reseached the forum, it had to be the micro switch in the drivers door mechanism. Here's my route to the fix, and the options you have.
1) Main dealer - buy a new door mechanism... about £120 ... ouch! [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
2) Buy a second hand door mechnism - mmm :? Well, you try finding one! Lots of passenger ones out there, and if you go for a s/h drivers one, the switch will not probably work in it, or last very long. A false economy... I know, I did try this with a s/h one from europe... mechanism fine, but switch not working.
3) replace the micro switch - already mentioned above. You may find your way here, if the switch is broken, as opposed to worn. I didn't need to go this route.
4) Plastic Strip and Super Glue! - I went this route in the end, and worked like a dream! Here's how...

- You really do need Spine M8 to release the lock-tighted door mechanism bolts. Torx did not work for me. Bought a cheap set of eBay, about £7, did the trick.

1) - remove the door card (trim). I used WAKs instructions... brilliant. Find them here...
http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/doorpanel/doorpanel.htm 
This gets you to the point of having the door card resting in the door aperture, wires still connected, with the door open. Gicing access to the lock mechnism from the inside. (Note - The tip on window down, and plastic strip over metal edge, when refitting.)

2) Removed the 2x Spline M8 bolts that hold the door mechanism to the door.

3) Release the plastic anti tamper cover, thats over the lock mechism. It takes a bit of tugging, It did help with the Door Mechanism lose i nthe door.

4) Door Handle Connection - You'll see a cable and a rod. Push the mechanism lever towards the door handle (push outwards) This slackens the cable, and allows you to twist the black plasitc disk on the end of the wire, and pop it off the door mechanism. The rod is just located in a mechanism, so the whole door mecahnism is now free.

5) Remove the last bit holding the door mechanism, the multi-pin connector. It's a bit of fiddle, but with mechanism free, you can turn it round and see how its locked in place. I used a small screw driver and gently wedge it over the lock lug and popped it off. The Door Mechanism is now in your hand, and you hand has a a few scrapes! :roll:

Time for a tea, and a closer look at what is going on with the micro switch!

1) You'll see 2 wires going to the switch. The switch is locked in place by a metal clip.
2) Use a screwdriver and gently prise the lock clip off the door mechanism. It will ping off, as there is tension there.
3) now you see the top of the switch tucked into a metal resess. It is located in the resess, by 2 plastic lugs on its body. They slot into 2 holes in the side of the resess. You can just wiggle the switch out of these, as you pull the switch upwards. In the resess you can see the door mechanism that rocks over the door shut. This is the surface that rolls on and off of the micro switch, as you open n shut the door.
4) Clean up the switch, resess and door roll mechanism. I just used a rag and wiped up.

You will now see why you have an issue with your switch. There should be a grey dome cover, over the black micro switch. Your will probably hava a fully exposed black switch head, with a circle of grey round the outside. The dome completely worn away, leaving just the switch head. Does the switch still click, when pressed? if so, you're in business. If not, you probably need a new switch. Mine clicked fine, and had nothing left of the grey dome. (See first & second pic)
















Here's the fix, and check out the pics below...
1) find a bit of plastic! - I used the lid off a tub of margarine (...flora!) and cut a small strip off. I was about 20mm x 5mm. It just has to be a little shorter than the length of the switch and a smidge narrower than the switch. This is enough thickness to fill the void left by the woren out plastic dome, over the micro switch. (See the white strip in first and second pic)
2) tiny drop of supeglue on the back of the switch, at the end furthest away from the switch.
3) line up your plastic strip and then place the end of it in the superglue and hold. It wil be resting over the micro switch, which bends the strip upwards. (See third pic) Thats ok. Don't stick your fingers to the switch, or you will struggle to put the switch in the resess! :lol: 








4) Once dry... and it bonds and dries within a couple of minutes, pop the switch back in the resses. It should locate in the two holes and the plastic strip mates up with the rocker mechanism in the door mechanism. (see fourth pic - you should see a white line. thats the plastic strip. Note, that the spring metal clip is not shown in the pic.)








5) Press the retaining clip back over the micro switch.. Job Done.
6) More Tea... then Test your newly fixed door mechanism. Just plug the multi-pin connector into the door mechanism, before re-fitting. The door window will instantly drop it's 10mm!  
7) Refit mechnism in door, which is just a reverse of taking out. The Anti tamper shield is a bit of struggle to refit. I found that connecting the exterior door handle rod and and cable, then getting the shield in place, you kind of fit them together, as they do mate up. Take your time and work it in.
8) Continue putting the door back to together as per WAKs article, mentioned above.

It's been working like a dream ever since! Hope this, my first ever, write up and pics help.
Cheers, Greg


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## bigdodge (Apr 22, 2012)

Nice write up. I have been thinking about doing mine but can't find the courage to do it. Having seen your write up I now feel I can approach it. All I need now is one of those spline bit to get the switch out.


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Glad the write up helped 

I didn't have any spline sockets and bought these. Very cheap and cheerful, but perfect...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290794691630?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Cheers


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## Philpots (Dec 3, 2009)

I had a similar problem recently causing the lights on warning buzzer not to work. I have removed the driver's door mechanism and although the microswitch is clicking, the dome is damaged so that the black switch head is exposed and the grey dome is now a small ring with a couple of cracks in it. Therefore, the repair method highlighted above will be the next step. However, before I do that cam anyone explain to me how the cam mechanism works. As far as I can tell, simulating the action of opening and closing the door by operating the various levers has no effect on the position of the cam. I appreciate that it should only move a small amount - just enough to trigger the microswitch - but I cannot get it to shift at all .Am I doing something wrong, or is there another fault within the lock mechanism itself ?


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Firstly, it sounds like your micro switch is fine. The dome gone, but the switch clicks happily. This is exactly how mine was.

The cam. The cam is actually part of the black mechanism that rolls on to the door frame hook. So, you can simulate the closing of the door by placing a screwdriver into the latch area and pushing inwards... acting like the bar on the door frame. It rolls round and locks. This 'roll-round' not only lock on the door frame bar, but also operates the micro switch.

If its the driver side unit. Hold it in your left hand, with the red and blue wires at the top, so you are looking into the V of the mechanism. You can just about see the black of the rolling cam, below the micro switch. If you simulate a door close and look at the bottom of the micro switch, you will see the cam move.

How it works... with the door open, the cam is pressing on the micro switch. As the door shuts, the cam rolls off the switch.

The reason it fails... The rubber dome over the micro switch wears away. So, when the door is open the cam is too far away from the dome-less micro switch, and does not press it down. So, it continually stays up, door open or shut.

Good luck with the repair. I'm confident you'll soon have it sorted. 8)


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## Philpots (Dec 3, 2009)

Thanks for the advice. I reinstalled the microswitch and reconnected the cables to the door mechanism. I then simulated the action of opening and closing the door by moving the latch with a screwdriver with the ignition on and the lights off and vice versa. Nothing happened. I then removed the microswitch and operated it manually. With the ignition on, the windows moved down and up. With the lights on and the ignition off, the lights warning buzzer sounded, proving that the switch works OK but that it is no longer capable of making contact with the cam.

Now looking for a new switch or a margarine carton as per the solution shown earlier in this post..


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

One thing I did before trying the fix... buy a second lock mechanism, but one from mainland Europe. My cunning plan was to pick up a Euro passenger one, which equate to a UK Drivers Door one, in the hope that it was less worn and ok.

Sadly, that plan backfired! ... as when it arrived, it too had a worn out micro switch dome! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

That's when I headed for the margarine tub lid and super glue!... and fixed it


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

Hi,

I have the same problem but haven't had a proper look at it yet... I bought this microswitch from Maplin and just wanna check that it's the right one... I've tried the links above buyt they just take me to the home page..

Cheers
Dan


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## ackers (Dec 16, 2013)

cavaye said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have the same problem but haven't had a proper look at it yet... I bought this microswitch from Maplin and just wanna check that it's the right one... I've tried the links above buyt they just take me to the home page..
> 
> ...


Interested to know the same, need to replace my drivers side switch. If this is the correct one then I'm on it.


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

ackers said:


> cavaye said:
> 
> 
> > Hi,
> ...


I've just had a look at the guide above and it looks like it is definitely *NOT* the correct one, it needs to be a lot smaller... I'm gunna go back to Maplin now and change it... I'll let you know the one I get and hopefully someone can confirm it is the correct one...


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

..are you guys going for a new micro switch because your original one no longer operates? From reading the above, it seems you'll still be drilling holes in the door latch to secure it and will need to make sure it lines up on the cam. I thought about a new micro switch, but as no one could find one exactly the same size/fitment as the OEM one, I opted for the repair...
..which meant I just had to be a dab hand with super-glue and scissors! 

I can see though... if the switch is totally ker-put, you would be looking for a new mirco switch.


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## ackers (Dec 16, 2013)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> ..are you guys going for a new micro switch because your original one no longer operates? From reading the above, it seems you'll still be drilling holes in the door latch to secure it and will need to make sure it lines up on the cam. I thought about a new micro switch, but as no one could find one exactly the same size/fitment as the OEM one, I opted for the repair...
> ..which meant I just had to be a dab hand with super-glue and scissors!
> 
> I can see though... if the switch is totally ker-put, you would be looking for a new mirco switch.


I'm yet to fully investigate, all I know is there is something wrong with my switch, and it gets more irritating each day on these dark mornings getting in to my car.

What is the trick with scissors and glue? I must have missed something!


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> ..are you guys going for a new micro switch because your original one no longer operates? From reading the above, it seems you'll still be drilling holes in the door latch to secure it and will need to make sure it lines up on the cam. I thought about a new micro switch, but as no one could find one exactly the same size/fitment as the OEM one, I opted for the repair...
> ..which meant I just had to be a dab hand with super-glue and scissors!
> 
> I can see though... if the switch is totally ker-put, you would be looking for a new mirco switch.


I am also yet to look at the actual problem, but if I take all this apart I'd prefer to have all the bits I need just in case... Plus its only £2... I'm hoping it's not the whole microswitch that's the problem and that I can juse get the scissors and glue out... This is the microswitch I now have...


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

@ ackers - the crux of the problem with the micro switch is that it has a rubber cap over it. The cap wears away. This creates a gap between the switch and the cam . This means the switch no longer gets pressed. now the car no longer knows when the door is open. Usually you can fill that gap with a slither of plastic. The plastic fills the gap, and now your micro switch operates as the cam will meet it. Read the thread from the start, and hopefully you'll be sorted. 
it is a right pain when it stops working... especially in the winter.


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## Philpots (Dec 3, 2009)

I'm the one with the driver's door locking mechanism on the workbench. The microswitch measures 20 mm x 12 mm x 8 mm deep. The space into which it fits is quite tight and the two plastic lugs on the front face fit precisely into holes in the casing of the locking mechanism. The metal clip that then holds the microswitch in place fits exactly over the microswitch and adjacent part of the mechanism. The plunger is located centrally on the top face of the microswitch. There is no lever and the plunger acts directly on to the cam. The wires from the microswitch disappear into the door mechanism which I have not needed to take apart and I have not investigated how to wire in a new switch.

In my opinion, replacing the microswitch with one of a different size or with the plunger located other than centrally would not work. If the problem is like mine where the rubber covering on the plunger has worn away, then provided that the microswitch still functions (and that can be tested as described earlier in the thread) then the margarine tub method of repair highlighted even earlier in the thread seems to be the best option.

The microswitch is not available as a separate item from Audi but is integral with a new door mechanism which costs just over £ 100 plus vat.


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## peterm2610 (Oct 19, 2013)

So I attempted to fix my drivers side door micro switch today however it didn't work out as expected.

I removed the door card easily following Waks instructions. I didn't fully remove the lock mechanism as I could locate the microswitch by removing the lower bolt and loosening the top bolt.

Previously I had bought some V4 switch levers from RS Components which someone on a different post had recommended so I easily fitted one of these to the existing switch, rather than use the plastic and super glue approach - the switch was working, just the dome of the button had worn away.

Now when I put everything back together to test the switch the operation of door open/window down, door closed/window up was reversed - when the door was closed the window dropped and the TT thought the door was open, when the door was open the window went back up and the TT thought the door was closed - bizarre!

Obviously I couldn't leave it like that as the interior light would stay on and drain the battery, the window would be open to let in all the rain, so as it was getting dark I had to reverse all the work (taking off the V4 switch lever) and am now back at square one.

Would anyone have an idea why the functioning of the microswitch/cam would behave in this way?


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

my first thought was, to reverse the wiring to the switch, but that can't be it.
The switch is just a make/break in a wire. Therefore, my guess is that the operation of the switch itself is reversed to the original Audi switch. If that is the case, the switch have will never work.
I would now benchtest the operation of both switches with a multi meter, to confirm the operation.


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## bbbenzal (Nov 18, 2014)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> Hi All,
> I know this link is a little old now, but it was just the business for helping me to fix my Drivers Door micro switch.
> 
> I'm new to the TT (5 weeks in... still loving it). When I bought the car, I found that the window drop/lift, along with all the other sensing, that tells the car that the door is open (clock & speedo light up, door open symbol when keys in ignition, the buzzer when lights left on.) to be a bit intermitent. It last a week, being hit n miss, then stopped all together. Having reseached the forum, it had to be the micro switch in the drivers door mechanism. Here's my route to the fix, and the options you have.
> ...


Excellent bloody write up....cheers to Greg and wak........only took hour and half......and works like a dream muchos kudos to you all and happy Christmas woohoo

Matt


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## eldiablott (Jun 18, 2014)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> Hi All,
> I know this link is a little old now, but it was just the business for helping me to fix my Drivers Door micro switch.
> 
> I'm new to the TT (5 weeks in... still loving it). When I bought the car, I found that the window drop/lift, along with all the other sensing, that tells the car that the door is open (clock & speedo light up, door open symbol when keys in ignition, the buzzer when lights left on.) to be a bit intermitent. It last a week, being hit n miss, then stopped all together. Having reseached the forum, it had to be the micro switch in the drivers door mechanism. Here's my route to the fix, and the options you have.
> ...


[album][/album]
bump. and a big thankyou for this


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

You're very welcome. My fix has been in place for nearly 2 years... which is great news. So I doubt I will have to do this job again. I fixed my missing parcel shelf stud today. Great to get my shelf back in. 
So all smiles for doing those little catch up jobs over the festive season.
Happy Christmas, Greg


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## bigootang (Dec 9, 2014)

I did this last weekend thanks to wabbit cc !!


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## Thistlebeeace (Oct 15, 2014)

Just done this today - thanks very much for the guide!

You weren't wrong about that anti tamper shield - took me over half an hour to get that mother back in place. My mistake was to try fitting it after I'd bolted the door latch assembly up (i.e. do it before bolting the latch up).

Cheers,
Nick


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## SamG40 (Sep 26, 2014)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> Hi All,
> I know this link is a little old now, but it was just the business for helping me to fix my Drivers Door micro switch.
> 
> I'm new to the TT (5 weeks in... still loving it). When I bought the car, I found that the window drop/lift, along with all the other sensing, that tells the car that the door is open (clock & speedo light up, door open symbol when keys in ignition, the buzzer when lights left on.) to be a bit intermitent. It last a week, being hit n miss, then stopped all together. Having reseached the forum, it had to be the micro switch in the drivers door mechanism. Here's my route to the fix, and the options you have.
> ...


Sorry for dragging up an old post but I used this method just over a month ago having had the very same issue and it has worked solidly ever since. Well worth sacrificing a margarine tub lid for! Thank you WabbitCC.


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Excellent!... glad it helped. 
Looking at the dates my fix went in 3 years ago... and it's still fine!


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## willbaroo (Feb 10, 2016)

Nice write up - going to attempt this, this weekend! All fingers crossed for good weather.


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## OxFactor (Feb 21, 2016)

willbaroo said:


> Nice write up - going to attempt this ...


Yes, indeed it is. I have my replacement micro on the way from Aliexpress, but shipping takes a bit to the US.


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## BadNun (Mar 11, 2016)

My switch.....using the 20mm by 5mm guide cut from a cheese spread lid.


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## Mark225TT (Nov 30, 2014)

Excellent guide, just managed to fix my switch within an hour, so simple and saved me a fortune for a new door mechanism.

I have one question tho, my display now shows when door open, window drops and buzzer for lights all work.... But my interior light is not functioning, now is there a fault with the interior light. The map lights operate, but nothing from the central bulb? And I've also changed the bulb to rule that out.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Mark225TT said:


> Excellent guide, just managed to fix my switch within an hour, so simple and saved me a fortune for a new door mechanism.
> 
> I have one question tho, my display now shows when door open, window drops and buzzer for lights all work.... But my interior light is not functioning, now is there a fault with the interior light. The map lights operate, but nothing from the central bulb? And I've also changed the bulb to rule that out.


Hi, Dry solder joints in light unit are the usual prob.
Hoggy.


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## Mark225TT (Nov 30, 2014)

Thanks for the reply Hoggy,

Is there a known DIY fix or is it a replace job?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Mark225TT said:


> Thanks for the reply Hoggy,
> 
> Is there a known DIY fix or is it a replace job?


Hi, If your any good with a soldering iron, remove unit & get the joints flowing. If not replace.
Hoggy.


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## Mark225TT (Nov 30, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Mark225TT said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the reply Hoggy,
> ...


I'll give anything a go, and going on the fact it's not working atm, what could possibly go wrong :lol:


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## richieB (Apr 4, 2013)

Hi
Just wanted to add my thanks and appreciation for your clever version of the infamous micro switch fix - it's really well described and I'm delighted to report was carried out successfully by me this fine morning (even down to the two cups of tea).
Where would we be without the good ol' forum!

Cheers all

RichB


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## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. Used it the weekend to fit a new microswitch for £6.58
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152209971656? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Only trouble I had was after I put the door card back on, the inside door pull would not work the lock. I thought I must have put the lock assembly back wrongly, but just couldn't see how. Lots of head scratching...... Then I noticed the white cable end had been pulled out from the back of the door pull handle, on the door card, due to leaving it hanging, after refitting all was good.

Much better instruction on this forum and Waks guide to taking the door card off, than in the new Haynes manual!!


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## knobstar (Sep 15, 2013)

Greg

Just wanted to say thanks - i found your post extremely informative and it was invaluable in fixing my wife's TT. Now all back together and working as it should so couldn't be happier.

Matt


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I bought new micro switches for my tt but how would I know if the actual mech in the door lock works?

When I pull my door handle, nothing happens at all....


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

HOGG said:


> I bought new micro switches for my tt but how would I know if the actual mech in the door lock works?
> 
> When I pull my door handle, nothing happens at all....


Then I noticed the white cable end had been pulled out from the back of the door pull handle, on the door card, due to leaving it hanging, after refitting all was good.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

No no. I meant no interior lights or dash telling me the doors open


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

HOGG said:


> No no. I meant no interior lights or dash telling me the doors open


Sorry, misunderstood


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

What I'm asking is that can't just be the micro switch right


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

HOGG said:


> What I'm asking is that can't just be the micro switch right


As far as i know the micro switch puts the light on the dash and the interior light on 
but could be other things ,does it work on either door?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Microswitch in dook lock drops/rising window when opening closing door. Interior light on & door open icon on dash.
Also initiates buzzer if lights left on & door open.
But of course could also be faulty cable in door hinge rubber elbow.
Hoggy.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Could also be an extremely worn cam in the lock, so worn that the microswitch doesn't work.
But hopefully you looked at that when you put the new switch in.

Mine was completely shagged, so I replaced the whole lock.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Must be. I had a play again today with the micro switch and I have everything working apart from the window drop


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

HOGG said:


> Must be. I had a play again today with the micro switch and I have everything working apart from the window drop


If you are getting the door open alarm etc but not the window drop, do the window reset.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

David C said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> > Must be. I had a play again today with the micro switch and I have everything working apart from the window drop
> ...


I will give it a go....

Hold down for ten seconds, hold up for ten seconds??


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## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

I think Hoggy recommends the following

Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds. Repeat more than once.


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## Garys-TT (Jan 8, 2017)

Dragging up an old post but I've changed the window switches for brand new OEM ones, done the fix with the superglue and plastic on the door switch (doors open on dash, lights on buzzer etc all working) and still my windows refuse to drop when I open the door. 
I've tried the window reset several times but still no joy.
The strange thing is they work fine every time when the key is in the ignition...which is useless. What have I done wrong or what am I missing?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Could be a damaged cable in the door hinge rubber elbow, unless you connected switch up incorrectly.
Hoggy.


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## Garys-TT (Jan 8, 2017)

Cheers Hoggy, but if it was a warn cable why would they drop fine when the ignition is on and the door is opened?

I'd have thought either all or nothing if it was damaged aged cable or something else.

Confused :?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Garys-TT said:


> Cheers Hoggy, but if it was a warn cable why would they drop fine when the ignition is on and the door is opened?
> I'd have thought either all or nothing if it was damaged aged cable or something else. Confused :?


Hi, With Ign OFF windows don't normally operate. But when opening door the Ign is OFF but windows drop so there must be 2 supplies to the window motors, 1 Ign switched & 1 live.
It appears the Live supply is not there but is being fed 12v when Ign is ON, so I suspect a cable fault, unless the switch is fitted incorrectly.
Hoggy.


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## TTXOVOXTT (Nov 12, 2018)

My drivers window started not dropping occasionally last week and now all the time when I come to unlock it when parked up. I initially thought it would be the micro switch in the door lock but now it is doing it all the time I have noticed that it works fine after I have driven it and park it up. Turn engine off, key out of ignition, open door, window drops as it should and goes back up as it should when I close the door. Come back to it and the window does not drop when I open it.
I am guessing that the permanent live has failed for some reason and that there is a timed live after the key is taken out to the window motor and this is why it works fine after I have driven it and I park up. Anyone had this happen / know the relay that controls this etc etc.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

TTXOVOXTT said:


> My drivers window started not dropping occasionally last week and now all the time when I come to unlock it when parked up. I initially thought it would be the micro switch in the door lock but now it is doing it all the time I have noticed that it works fine after I have driven it and park it up. Turn engine off, key out of ignition, open door, window drops as it should and goes back up as it should when I close the door. Come back to it and the window does not drop when I open it.
> I am guessing that the permanent live has failed for some reason and that there is a timed live after the key is taken out to the window motor and this is why it works fine after I have driven it and I park up. Anyone had this happen / know the relay that controls this etc etc.


Hi, More than likely an intermittent microswith failure or dodgy cable in door hinge rubber bellows.
Hoggy.


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## TTXOVOXTT (Nov 12, 2018)

Hoggy said:


> TTXOVOXTT said:
> 
> 
> > My drivers window started not dropping occasionally last week and now all the time when I come to unlock it when parked up. I initially thought it would be the micro switch in the door lock but now it is doing it all the time I have noticed that it works fine after I have driven it and park it up. Turn engine off, key out of ignition, open door, window drops as it should and goes back up as it should when I close the door. Come back to it and the window does not drop when I open it.
> ...


I can't be the microswitch as it works 100% of the time when I get out after a drive.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

TTXOVOXTT said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > TTXOVOXTT said:
> ...


Hi, Check the cables in the door hinge then. Quite common for them to break.
Hoggy.


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## TTXOVOXTT (Nov 12, 2018)

Hi, Check the cables in the door hinge then. Quite common for them to break.
Hoggy. [/quote]

I don't suppose you have a wiring diagram of what wire is what in the door loom?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

TTXOVOXTT said:


> Hi, Check the cables in the door hinge then. Quite common for them to break.
> Hoggy.


I don't suppose you have a wiring diagram of what wire is what in the door loom?[/quote]

Hi, No idea, but you should be able to tell by flexing them & noticing the difference.
Hoggy.


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

These may help, coupe and roadster ccts are different. Both are here. Mac.


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## TTXOVOXTT (Nov 12, 2018)

PlasticMac said:


> These may help, coupe and roadster ccts are different. Both are here. Mac.


Nice one, cheers.


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## ibuckley (Feb 16, 2020)

Some really useful info in here, and thanks to wabbit_of_cc's guide I've now got a fully functioning microswitch again.

The rubber plunger cover had split on mine, but worse than that the plunger had broken into 3 pieces and was beyond repair. Luckily the switch was still working. Due to Maplin's demise I struggled to find a replacement using the links shared here over the years. In the end I tracked down a SAIA-BURGESS - V4NT7 - MICROSWITCH, V4, PLUNGER on ebay for £4.91. When it arrived I removed the top half and swapped it onto the body of my functioning/pre-wired switch, complete with a small rectangle of a butter tub lid, and it sprang into action again.


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

For info 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0183W1JDS? ... omp_rsrdg2


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## Beardman123 (Mar 14, 2019)

That amazon link, is that the micro switch needed for both doors?


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

Beardman123 said:


> That amazon link, is that the micro switch needed for both doors?


Only one door in the link

i have some switches you could modify to work if you want them


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## Back 2 TT (Nov 12, 2015)

Thanks to all those who paved the way before. You've just helped me make my wife a happy bunny. Finally fixed the door lock.

Only the DIS, ac display and replacement headlight to go   

These instructions are much easier to follow when you aren't watching the rain, it's winter and going dark and you need the car for work so you daren't dismantle it. God bless lockdown 8)

cheers,
Hoppy

PS. When my wife remembers where she got the lock mechanism from I'll post it. It was less than £30 and less messing about than messing with the micro switch


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Glad it help... and just for info, my micro switch repair... still going strong!! Happy TT-ing


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## Back 2 TT (Nov 12, 2015)

As promised:

For Audi A3 8L1 A4 B5 TT Roadster Door Lock Mechanism Front Right Side £21.97 eBay, seller Titan Autoparts London. I can't find the seller number on the page.

We had 2 issues, the failed microswitch and the door mechanism jammed up and had to be moved with a screwdriver.

The only issue was the slot for the Bowden cable was slightly too narrow and I had to file some metal away. Apart from that - happy bunny! Oh and the buzzer now works if you leave the lights on :lol:


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

For what it's worth, I also fitted the cheap door lock mechanism from eBay, same as *Back 2 TT* above. Easy job, more than a month has gone by now and it's still working reliably. I was wary about the cheap replacement unit but it seems to be decent.


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## rubberjohnson (Oct 13, 2016)

I've just fixed my passenger door switch, two years after having to do the driver side. The door wouldn't register as closed so the window wouldn't finish going up. Luckily I have no buzzer in the car or alarm horn, for some reason, so I could drive with it like that.
Same problem, switch worn away. Same solution for me: used new metal levers from RS that fit onto the switch. I still have a couple going spare if anyone wants one (see this page of this thread for description of fix):
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56261&p=8890122#p8890122

My only problems were undoing the barrel fixing screw too far so that the locking ring fell off, forgetting to put the plastic clip on the lock surround back, finding one of the door card rubber mounts on the ground after finishing, not being able to push the door edge rubbers back into all the holes, etc. I think I had the door card off ten times for one repair. :roll:


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