# EBC Rear pads and discs how-to...



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

Due to popular demand (well ok, a couple of people have asked) here's what I did today...

First make sure you have everything you need... unlike the fronts a windback tool (thanks UK225) is near essential, it can be done without but the hassle factor and extra time isn't worth it... you will also need a bleed tube and blled spanner, a short 13mm socket and 13mm open-ended spanner, 15mm open-ended spanner, 8mm allen hex key, flatbladed screwdriver, crosshead screwdriver (PZ2), spray cleaner, coppergrease or plastic equivalent, caliper paint and of course discs and pads...










After lifting and removing wheels give everything a good clean with spray cleaner










then lever off the handbrake cable retaining clip










and push the handbrake arm down to release the ball on the end of the cable. The easiest way is to get a screwdriver between the top of the arm and a suitable lug just to the side, push down on the screwdriver and push the ball inwards with a finger... errr just a reminder..the handbrake must be OFF to do this!


















now undo the guidepins with the socket and using the 15mm openended to stop the pin rotating. Note, the head of the bolt is quite thin and didn't seem to be a good fit for any of my 13mm sockets or spanners and its very easy to slip off so take care to avoid damage to you or the bolt head.










With the pins undone the caliper can be lifted away and supported by tying it to the upper suspension arm. Do not allow it to hang on the brake fluid line and be careful not to bend or kink the line...










Next, use the 8mm allen key to remove the brake pad carrier










If you are swapping the discs, now is a good time to remove the old one to give you more room to work... now we need to push the piston back while rotating it clockwise...time for that windback tool.... assemble it and get it into position but don't push yet. Now put the bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo the bleed nipple 1.5 turns. Now wind the piston back until its completely back, then lock up the bleed nipple before removing the tool.



































reassembly is a reversal of disassembly. Clean the calipers and carrier and paint, but don't paint where the pads locate otherwise they'll stick. Clean this area up gently with a light file to remove rust deposits.



















Finally put the wheels back, torque up the bolts and stand back and admire...


----------



## NormStrm (Sep 6, 2003)

Chip_iTT said:


> Finally put the wheels back, torque up the bolts and stand back and admire...


Irving, a fine days work - excellent instructions and they certainly look the part now. Will have to have a closer inspection @ Kneesworth :wink:

Norman


----------



## kam (Sep 25, 2003)

Well done, did mine last month.

Give me a call, I have some nice rings which will finish the project.....what colour, silver looks nice on red :wink:


----------



## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

Thanks for the "how to" Irving will make life a bit easier when I come to do mine.


----------



## DolphinTT (Sep 27, 2004)

Chip, where did you buy the windback tool from?
Cheers


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

borrowed it from UK225, but Halfords sell them


----------



## Jo Sharp (May 7, 2004)

very useful thread and pics - thanks.

Can I ask a question?

I'm about to change the front and rear pads on my FWD 180 TTR - if I measure the disc thickness with a micrometer, what is the thickness at which I should be changing the discs as well as the pads?

Thanks


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

IF the difference between the disc thickness and the rim (the lip) is more than 2mm overall they are due for a change...

More info here
View attachment brakedata.PDF


----------



## Jo Sharp (May 7, 2004)

Many thanks ,

Jo


----------



## themadsparkie (Aug 11, 2005)

hi

i bought a wind back tool from halfords selly oak birmingham - Â£19.98

unfortunately it no surprise their stock control is dire! been going for 3 weeks in an effort to get some castrol slx to change my oil! worst part is i am told halfords group own castrol!!!!

who thinks mobil1 is better?????????only comes in 4L i need 5 and its Â£39.80! lol


----------



## yogi (Dec 9, 2004)

i just used a g-clamp when i changed mine also instead of using bleed nipple i just undone the break fluid cap everything went ok


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

The prblem with using a G Clamp is that it doesnt rotate the piston as it goes back in (unless you release clamp, turn with a screwdriver or something in the slots on the piston, and then reapply clamp) and this can cause problems later with the seals

Undoing the fluid cap is Ok but runs the risk of fluid spilling out in engine bay and damaging paintwork or underbody corrosion protection as it drips down... brake fluid is a good solvent for these finishes.


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Good post Chip_iTT.

I've not come across the need to rotate the pistons before on other cars. What's that about? I've not done it yet on the TT. Does that not cause a potential problem with twisting the dust seal bellows or disturbing the seal between bellows and piston seating groove which might be a bit corroded?

I previously got away with using some water pump pliars in reverse for a straight push back and never invested in any special tool. Looks like a two leg puller might fit the rears too.


----------



## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

John-H said:


> Good post Chip_iTT.
> 
> I've not come across the need to rotate the pistons before on other cars. What's that about? I've not done it yet on the TT. Does that not cause a potential problem with twisting the dust seal bellows or disturbing the seal between bellows and piston seating groove which might be a bit corroded?
> 
> I previously got away with using some water pump pliars in reverse for a straight push back and never invested in any special tool. Looks like a two leg puller might fit the rears too.


it is only the rears you need to wind back the fronts you can just push back as you say the problems only stare if you dont wind back the rears and try to push them :!:


----------



## Guest (Sep 1, 2005)

How much pressure did it take to push the piston back with the windback tool.......I am using two spanners and there is that much force that the plate on the windback tool is bending. I did the right rear without any problem, but the left rear wont move at all.......has the piston seized? 
The handbrake is off (obviously) but do i need to disconnect anything else?
The cars on bricks on the drive...not much fun like that :!: :evil:


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

On bricks!!!! 

Seriously, you have disconnected the handbrake cable and you opened the bleed nipple? If you can't move it then it sounds like the piston has seized. Are you doing one side at a time or did you remove the pads from both sides before doing the right rear? If so its possible whenyou wound back the right rear the pressure has pushed the piston on the left rear out too far and the seal has become jammed. You will need to carefully lift the rubber dust seal to check and you may find that rotating the piston with a screwdriver will free it..

Otherwise its possible you have a jammed piston which means the brakes on that side weren't working... was the pad wear significantly different from side to side? I don't know if you can buy the seals and replace them or whether you would need to replace the whole caliper... these days its harder and harder to get seals on their own...


----------



## Guest (Sep 1, 2005)

Yeah the bricks didnt look great....looked like something from bhagdad! 

Think becaus i had done the previous side first it had pushed the piston out too far, managed to get two ridiculously long spanners to finally undo it! All sorted now though, will check it again when i replace the discs at christmas time to see if it is not seized.

Cheers for the help!


----------



## gt russell (Nov 27, 2005)

hi themadsparky i was advised by halfords that castrol edge was much better than mobil 1


----------



## boggie (May 8, 2002)

Hi Irving, great thread but your pics seem to have vanashed! :?


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

boggie said:


> Hi Irving, great thread but your pics seem to have vanashed! :?


Domain expired while i was away... don't give u much grace do they!

replace "www.kisolutionz.com" with "213.162.114.45" for the next day or two


----------



## AL_B (Jun 19, 2002)

Chip_iTT,

Great pics and guide.

The caliper paint...where did you get it, how long did you have to leave it to dry, and how long before you drove the car afterwards?

Cheers

AL


----------



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

AL_B said:


> Chip_iTT,
> 
> Great pics and guide.
> 
> ...


Paint was from halfords IIRC.. it dries very quickly if the air is dry.. under 15min - so i put 3 coats on in the end. Left it overnight before i drove it.


----------



## BillP (Jul 28, 2004)

Hi great pics and advice as I will have to attend to my brakes in the not too distant future.
couple of questions:-
1) Is it possible/permissable to reface/grind discs and what are the min thickness if it is possible.
As I run a 3.2 is it worth upgrading and if so what with.
Advice much appreciated
cheers
BillP


----------



## kevlo (Sep 6, 2009)

does anybody know how to get the pics to work on this thread?


----------



## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

kevlo said:


> does anybody know how to get the pics to work on this thread?


Contact Doc Brown and see if the DeLorean is free...

(Domain probably expired again but the thread is over four years old)


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Unfortunately Chip_iTT's server has recently expired. He has got a new one but it needs setting up. The earlier posts saying the pictures are missing were from a previous time when it went down.


----------



## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

kevlo said:


> does anybody know how to get the pics to work on this thread?


You being brave mate! LOL!

Lee


----------



## w200rdy (Apr 14, 2009)

jonamacg83 said:


> How much pressure did it take to push the piston back with the windback tool.......I am using two spanners and there is that much force that the plate on the windback tool is bending. I did the right rear without any problem, but the left rear wont move at all.......has the piston seized?
> The handbrake is off (obviously) but do i need to disconnect anything else?
> The cars on bricks on the drive...not much fun like that :!: :evil:


try using a g clamp to push the piston, plus i hope you've opened the break fluid bottle in the engine bay, if it still doesnt work try putting the caliper on without the disc on cause i gives you something to pus against, if that doesnt work some of the audi calipers screaw in, if its not that use a blow torch to heat the caliper and it should free it up,


----------



## kevlo (Sep 6, 2009)

lol, i would have been but i think pics will make alot of difference without them it sounds complicated


----------



## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

w200rdy said:


> try using a g clamp to push the piston, plus i hope you've opened the break fluid bottle in the engine bay, if it still doesnt work try putting the caliper on without the disc on cause i gives you something to pus against, if that doesnt work some of the audi calipers screaw in, if its not that use a blow torch to heat the caliper and it should free it up,


Thread reply FAILURE!!!

1.) The posts older than time itself
2.) You obviously dont know what a windback tool is then if you're suggesting using a g-clamp on the rear calipers of a TT!!!
3.) LOL @ blowtorch - watch the seals melt & disintegrate infront of your very eyes!!

Kevlo - stop stressing dude - you can just watch me do it so you know for next time! lol

Lee


----------



## kevlo (Sep 6, 2009)

i know, just being a tight arse trying to save any money i can....

plus i wak'd my airbox last week so i now feel like a car mechanic genius


----------



## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

kevlo said:


> i know, just being a tight arse trying to save any money i can....
> 
> plus i wak'd my airbox last week so i now feel like a car mechanic genius


Kev - just dont bring that drill anywhere near your brakes will you - you cant buy solid discs & WAK box them for better sound effects or better performance! LOL!

Lee


----------



## kevlo (Sep 6, 2009)

lol, good point i was just sketching my plans for DIY grooved brakes with TT etched into the face


----------



## TTSEG (Jul 12, 2009)

Half way through changing my rear pads and stuck where to go next, im sure its a really good guide if ONLY I could get the pictures to appear!!!


----------



## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

Have you got a windback tool?

Lee


----------



## TTSEG (Jul 12, 2009)

The EBC pads came with shims, should these be fitted? The current pads don't appear to have had shims fitted. Also how much (if any) copper slip should be applied to the backs of the pads?


----------



## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

Just done mine with some help.

We put copper greese anywhere where metal touched the pads and also on the edges of the pistons.


----------



## DAZTTC (May 20, 2005)

Hark said:


> Just done mine with some help.
> 
> We put copper greese anywhere where metal touched the pads and also on the edges of the pistons.


oooo get you :lol: :wink:


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

The original pads would have had double sided sticky film as antisqueal. If the EBC pads came with shims then fit them. Can you measure the exact distance between the face of the pad and the back of the steel backing plate? i.e. thickness - distance between piston and disc when assembled. Just wondering if the pads are too thick :roll:

I've just measured some new Mintex Xtreme rear pads at 16.80mm including double sided antisqueal with backing removed.

The copper grease is supposed to absorb the vibrational energy as well as lubricate - so anywhere anything touches anything else (apart from the disc :wink: )


----------



## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

John-H said:


> I've just measured some new Mintex Xtreme rear pads at 16.80mm including double sided antisqueal with backing removed.


I loved those Mintex Xtreme pads - such a shame they discontinued them! :?

Lee


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

shell said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > I've just measured some new Mintex Xtreme rear pads at 16.80mm including double sided antisqueal with backing removed.
> ...


Yes a very great shame


----------



## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

DAZTTC said:


> Hark said:
> 
> 
> > Just done mine with some help.
> ...


Just proving I listened.


----------



## DAZTTC (May 20, 2005)

Hark said:


> DAZTTC said:
> 
> 
> > Hark said:
> ...


That you did good man. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Great Instructions . Thanks for posting this , very helpful .

I did have one little problem after finishing changing the rear discs and pads , I took the car our for a trial run and noticed that for some reason the engine management light was on on the instrument cluster . Of course all the manuals say take to an AUDI dealer !!!! I managed to fix this by disconnecting the car battery , I read somewhere that the engine management system would lose any recorded faults by doing this , luckily it worked , sorted . BUT , I would be interested to know why the light comes on in the first place . ANY IDEAS ?
Thankyou .


----------



## westo3 (Jan 15, 2011)

Good clear instructions and photos, thanks as I need to do this soon


----------



## BS3_TT (Feb 25, 2018)

Appreciate I'm resurrecting an old post here... but as an almost complete novice is this something I should be attempting? Keen to keep costs down - and have yet to find a garage I completely trust... plus it would be nice to have more choice over parts.

Also is there a particular pad/disc combo for a little more than standard that would be worth trying?


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

BS3_TT said:


> Appreciate I'm resurrecting an old post here... but as an almost complete novice is this something I should be attempting? Keen to keep costs down - and have yet to find a garage I completely trust... plus it would be nice to have more choice over parts.
> 
> Also is there a particular pad/disc combo for a little more than standard that would be worth trying?


Personally I wouldn't touch EBC for anything.
Also don't go for any drilled or grooved discs.

Plenty of choice for std discs for the 1.8T, they are not expensive.
If you are only driving on the road, std pads will be fine too. There will be downsides to all performance pads in "normal" day-to-day road use.

As for actually doing it...
We all need to start somewhere, but brakes are rather important, so if you do DIY, get the help of a friend that knows what they are doing.
You'll need the wind-in tool for the rears and don't be surprised if you find you need new rear calipers!


----------



## BS3_TT (Feb 25, 2018)

So nothing fancy seems to be the key? Mines a 225 Quattro just mapped to 250 so whilst purely for road I want to make sure it stops... discs definitely need attention soon.

Have a mate with a garage so will make sure he at least looks over my shoulder / does it for a pint or two!


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

BS3_TT said:


> So nothing fancy seems to be the key? Mines a 225 Quattro just mapped to 250 so whilst purely for road I want to make sure it stops... discs definitely need attention soon.


Discs often get left far longer than they should. There is only a 1mm wear limit on each face.
So there is a very good chance that just fitting new std bits will improve the situation.
With your garage friends help, it will be worth bleeding the brakes too with fresh "Class 6 DOT4" brake fluid.
"Class 6 DOT4" is often labelled as for ESP/ABS or low temperature, but as always, check the container.
It is different to normal DOT4.



BS3_TT said:


> Have a mate with a garage so will make sure he at least looks over my shoulder / does it for a pint or two!


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif] 
[smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## BS3_TT (Feb 25, 2018)

Great - will do...

Is this what I need? Seems stupidly cheap! How much would you estimate a garage repair disc / pads all round? At these prices why get hands dirty!

http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/rear-br ... ypenr=9903


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

BS3_TT said:


> Great - will do...
> 
> Is this what I need? Seems stupidly cheap! How much would you estimate a garage repair disc / pads all round? At these prices why get hands dirty!
> 
> http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/rear-br ... ypenr=9903


No, those are the solid rears for a 150/180

225 have 256x22 vented rear discs


----------

