# Breather pipes upgrade



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

If you have the breather assembly pictured you should consider a full complete upgrade. 
CHECK FIRST! (typically post 2000 225/240 models)

This assembly is prone to a large number of leaks and is hard enough to remove that it is a waste of effort to fix a single leak.

The parts list is around £160 currently but once done should be problem free.


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----------Engines with above breather pipes

If you want to do a more complete upgrade then there is this kit from 034 motorsports 
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/ ... 25bhp-amu/
( post 2000 model 210-240 , i.e. Cars that have the breather setup above )

In addition to the 034 kit you still need the
Suction jet pump 
Repair kits or 12mm hose + 4x 22mm hose clamps 
the FMTTUHOSE + 3x 20mm hose clamps
Precautionary dipstick tube

--Engines with simpler single breather pipe to pcv valve

This more complete kit should work well on earlier models that don't have a suction jet pump. (E.g APX)
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/ ... 25bhp-amu/

-- engines base around 150-190 models

Check your breather system and the cam cover breather hose looks like the kit pieces

https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-bran ... arly-1-8t/


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## manikm (Feb 17, 2014)

Nice one WAK.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I had about 4 of these failure points when I took the car to Wak and didn't even know it...


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

PCV was the worst for me, I changed out a broken one with a brand new one from the dealers and it lasted literally 2 minutes before the rev counter went back to bobbing up and down on ldle. A quick check showed it had broken the same as the last one, quickest way to waste £5.


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## slihp67 (Apr 16, 2017)

are these the collection off pipes that sit under the engine cover?


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

slihp67 said:


> are these the collection off pipes that sit under the engine cover?


No, that's the N249 assembly ft. vacuum resevoir.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

slihp67 said:


> are these the collection off pipes that sit under the engine cover?


No, these sit under the inlet manifold.


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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

Been thinking about going through the breather system, so that's a very handy post, I feel a shopping session coming on !


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I thought my system wasnt too bad but I was allways a bit suspicious of my 058133753D ,
Mine is the old unrevised type (can tell by looking at it) and it never seemed to have a snug lock,like it was slightly angled.
Now Ive seen the revised type, I want one ! :lol: .
audi dealer about £32 ,stamped made in germany with audi vw logo on £11 on ebay,chinatown version £3-4 .
Ill try the £11 and then clip removal "the horror,the horror".


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

I'm currently doing this but ffs why couldn't you posted this two weeks ago and save me loads of effort [smiley=bigcry.gif] :lol:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

3TT3 said:


> I thought my system wasnt too bad but I was allways a bit suspicious of my 058133753D ,
> Mine is the old unrevised type (can tell by looking at it) and it never seemed to have a snug lock,like it was slightly angled.
> Now Ive seen the revised type, I want one ! :lol: .
> audi dealer about £32 ,stamped made in germany with audi vw logo on £11 on ebay,chinatown version £3-4 .
> Ill try the £11 and then clip removal "the horror,the horror".


DO NOT buy a £10 jobby from Ebay, I bought one recently to review the quality , its was shite and didnt hold pressure where it should have done.... returned. Genuine Audi Only!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

chisharpe said:


> I'm currently doing this but ffs why couldn't you posted this two weeks ago and save me loads of effort [smiley=bigcry.gif] :lol:


I'm sorry!  but I have to collect parts, lay them out , consider how best to present, take pics, prepare the collage and show my wife I'm still interested in her! it takes a lot of the small time slots in between normal life to do! 

Also as pointed out above, I'm not presenting a list of options, these are recommendations on quality parts , best pipes, best hose clips and the best options to use.

Try not to cut costs where its a hassle to diagnose and to get to, to perform repairs hence keep to the best parts for this upgrade.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Wak said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > I thought my system wasnt too bad but I was allways a bit suspicious of my 058133753D ,
> ...


OOps looks like Ill be returning too then 

edit...  guess what german car parts on ebay sent me a refund , the part was out of stock! £32 quid one it is then.


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## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanks Wak, I'm sure iam going to need this info when mine fails.


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Wak said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > I'm currently doing this but ffs why couldn't you posted this two weeks ago and save me loads of effort [smiley=bigcry.gif] :lol:
> ...


thx. how do you clean out the repair pipes. and is there anyway of checking the 058133753D is working correctly.


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Wak said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > I thought my system wasnt too bad but I was allways a bit suspicious of my 058133753D ,
> ...


Did you clean out the hard pipes ate all and if so how


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## richardkhill (Jul 20, 2015)

Wak said:


> If you have the breather assembly pictured you should consider a full complete upgrade.
> 
> This assembly is prone to a large number of leaks and is hard enough to remove that it is a waste of effort to fix a single leak.
> 
> ...


Are these the bunch of hoses that would be deleted as part of a oil catch can install?


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

The majority of replacements I sourced from here: https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/search?keyword=058133753D


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

richardkhill said:


> Are these the bunch of hoses that would be deleted as part of a oil catch can install?


I don't do Oil Catch can installs as I dont want to introduce any further strange behavior to already aged cars that have issues and dont log like they should! :roll:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

chisharpe said:


> Did you clean out the hard pipes ate all and if so how


No I didnt , this assembly is just down to the PCV.

The pipes beyond the pcv and the hard pipes are also upgrade-able, Between Forge and ( I believe ) 034 motorsports there are replacements, but in my experience they are pipes that are fairly reliable, perhaps broken by manhandling, but they could have some gunk built up and being old and possibly brittle I'd say go for upgrade rather than a clean on them.

These pipes are the ones that effect me when doing boost leak tests. 
The others could effect me when logging maf values if the PRV is not doing its job but in general they can be viewed and usually a break more obvious. 
But Ive maybe only seen one broken in all the cars ive reviewed over the last 10 years.


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Wak said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> > Did you clean out the hard pipes ate all and if so how
> ...


yeah since ive been looking ive found 3 of these already so im just changing the whole lot. also as a side note the revised 3 peice pipe is £26 from tps


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

chisharpe said:


> and is there anyway of checking the 058133753D is working correctly.


not without comparing it against a new OEM one, I dont think the internals fail on them just the construction of the earlier ones was prone to leaking which would show up under a leak test when sprayed with a fairy liquid mix you would see bubbles.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

chisharpe said:


> also as a side note the revised 3 peice pipe is £26 from tps


Confirm that after you get it , they charged me £32 recently which is roughly £26 plus vat.


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## Wiggles01 (Jun 27, 2014)

That's really handy Wak as I shall gather the parts for when I install my new inlet manifold 
W


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## newrayTT (Feb 6, 2013)

Looking to upgrade as per WAK's recommendations, I have already purchased the following:
Forge FMTTUHOSE & FMTTBH set
034 Motor Sports Billet PCV
Suction Jet Pump 058133753D
PCV repair kit 6N0698998
Plus all necessary jubilee clips.

As I intend to remove the manifold to gain access to the above is there anything else that I should be replacing/checking whilst I have the manifold off?


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

newrayTT said:


> Looking to upgrade as per WAK's recommendations, I have already purchased the following:
> Forge FMTTUHOSE & FMTTBH set
> 034 Motor Sports Billet PCV
> Suction Jet Pump 058133753D
> ...


Pipe that goes the the n429 and change that and the pipe that goes to the vaccine on the fuel rail. Also get new injector seals change them generally clean up the area. Even with the manifold off it's a nightmare


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Wak said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > I thought my system wasnt too bad but I was allways a bit suspicious of my 058133753D ,
> ...


I think this was the issue on my setup Wak - I have reinstated the hockey puck now and all is well but I'm almost certain that wasn't the cause as many over in the U.S run with it without issue. My PCV valve on inspection wasn't genuine I don't think.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As alluded to allready.
If youve bought or are thinking of buying a 4 cyl tt .The pcv/crankase breather system could be full of oily crap n lumps ,never mind leaks .
Mine was. Even if boost vacumm leak free with a test and no cracks in hoses everything could be all clogged up.
Think narrowed arteries with cholesterol piccies 
Dodgy/rough servicing, with wrong grade of oil and all sorts of other reasons are put forward ,but maybe the shit just happens on high mileage.
Treating your new(used ) TT to lots of top spec oil and filter changes might just loosen off all this cholesterol and clog up your oil pickup pipe! .
I think something like that happened to me (Its a theory anyway).

The crud in mine (90k) ..in the pipes..and there was plenty of it..like a teacup full of tarry lumps..certainly more than an eggcup.

Take off the inlet manifold.
Its an easyish job comparatively and really just requires 1 inexpensive inlet manifold gasket in cost terms but leaves you so much freedom to do loads of other things.
Like
injector seal replacement ,upper and lower and injector filters.
Thermostat replacement looks a doddle
oil pressure switch replacement 
crank position sensor 
other stuff too..but aside from that its practically a necessity for all the bits Wak mentions for replacement upgrade.

Once the manifold is off you can get at all those orrible vag crimp clips.Just break the locking tag grip with a screwdriver and the clips spring off. No cutting or hacksawing just say goodbye to them.
The black goo/ hard stuff on mine was mainly concentrated in the fat crank breather pipe but was present all the way up thru pipes linked to the main cbt.
Even some in the main vacuum /boost takeoff to the inlet manifold(the hose right in the middle).
The 2 small hoses to fp regulator and n249 didnt have any .

I used a wire bent at one end into a loop to clean.
EDIT : sorry meant to put in. I put a small strip of clotch caught in the wire loop and pulled it through.

Also some "fuzzy sticks" from a toy shop Theyre similar to what used to be known as pipe cleaners (the pipes you smoke).
Bit of carb cleaner /similar for the final pass thru.

Thats for bits that seem in good condition.. if theyre gone theyre gone n dont bother cleaning.

The 058133753D
as mentioned above .. I got the revised proper one after Wak mentioned non audi were crap..the old one ,non revised I suppose has a sort of sealed edge whereas the new type is more unitary construction.
There are 2 check valves in it and a venturi , :roll: some of the oil crud had migrated up that far.
The other one way valves and some higher up I suppose you can check by blowing /or with your handy foot pump connected to a tubing section .

Ive done a boost leak check before and all seemed ok but that cant account for blockages that will resist 30psi even if there are no leaks 
The amount of orrible sticky lumps that have come out make me wonder how the engine still ran fine


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Good write-up and definitely something all 1.8T owners should eventually do even if, as you say, there are no obvious leaks. I have repaired mine for now but will in future replace a lot more of the hose system with new parts - it just makes sense! 

I did the job with the inlet manifold in situ but it was a real hassle...... next time, definitely inlet manifold off and as you said this gives you the opportunity to access all kinds of other inaccessible nooks and crannies.


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## Andyj1967 (Sep 11, 2015)

Dare I ask is this set up the same for a 150 ..... got to look at mine as got the occasional odd noise on boost ?


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## Takahashi (Oct 30, 2016)

Have you lot bought all the forge stuff? They rang me yesterday to say they're out of stock! :lol:

I'm doing this as part of my full engine bay silicone swap. The state of all the rubber hoses including the coolant ones after 16 years and 150k miles is horrendous!


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Takahashi said:


> Have you lot bought all the forge stuff? They rang me yesterday to say they're out of stock! :lol:
> 
> I'm doing this as part of my full engine bay silicone swap. The state of all the rubber hoses including the coolant ones after 16 years and 150k miles is horrendous!


I was exactly the same I've mines done 146k car is in good nick but the hoses for this were a state plastic ones falling apart in my hands. I used a mixture of creation motorsport and forge


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## Saleena41 (Sep 3, 2012)

Pardon my ignorance as everything I've learnt about my TT is from you guys and this fantastic forum. Without sounding geeky it makes ownership of this iconic car even more pleasurable and I thank you, so I hope I'm asking the right questions.

I've noticed the idle on the rev wondering more than usual. Could this be causing the problem and would this upgrade solve the issue?. I'm almost certain i have the old system which has never been changed.

Any advise much appreciated,

Sal


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Can only say that a vacuum leak is likely to cause some idle fluctuations but this upgrade is for about 60% of the more common issues

There are other parts of the breather system less likely to leak but still a possibility that could be effecting you so no one could say for certain this alone could improve things for you


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## J55RDD (Aug 5, 2017)

This is perfect for what I need! Thanks!

Just on the off chance is this kit no good? 
https://store.034motorsport.com/breathe ... icone.html

I did notice it's for the amu not bam but looks similar?


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## Saleena41 (Sep 3, 2012)

Dean at 4Rings has always serviced the car and wondered if he would be able to obtain the bits to fit.

Sal


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## J55RDD (Aug 5, 2017)

Does anyone no where I can get the 2x 12mm layered silicone hose,

Instead of the repair kit as I am finding it impossible to source the kit anywhere!

But I can't seem to find 12mm looked on forge and stuff but can't see 12mm

Thanks


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## peartcart12 (May 24, 2015)

Everything was going well till i called Audi, apparently my 2000 plate 225 does not have a suction pump only on years 2003-2006 erm do we have something different fitted before 2003 :? :? and also Audi said that nothing was showing for the repair kit, HELP!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Dude! First line is "if you have the breather assembly pictured!"

As I can't say which worldwide engine codes it applies to on all the 210-240 Bhp engines from S3's to TT's hence take a look first. 
SJP is on 225 TT's since 2000 with a BAM engine code

It won't apply to APX however the manifold to pcv valve is very common to fail on that engine.
An 034 pcv valve and a hose is a good upgrade but there is this complete kit 
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/ ... 25bhp-bea/ which should be good for an APX


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## peartcart12 (May 24, 2015)

Wak said:


> Dude! First line is "if you have the breather assembly pictured!"
> 
> As I can't say which worldwide engine codes it applies to on all the 210-240 Bhp engines from S3's to TT's hence take a look first.
> SJP is on 225 TT's since 2000 with a BAM engine code
> ...


Hi Wak, hope your all good, thanks for sorting that out


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## J55RDD (Aug 5, 2017)

Hello wak!

Where can you get the correct 12mm layered silicone hose from? If the repair kit is not available as it doesn't seem to be anywhere so I'd need the 12mm but can't font it anywhere like forge.. only 11mm or 13mm?

Thanks


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

J55RDD said:


> Hello wak!
> 
> Where can you get the correct 12mm layered silicone hose from? If the repair kit is not available as it doesn't seem to be anywhere so I'd need the 12mm but can't font it anywhere like forge.. only 11mm or 13mm?
> 
> Thanks


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112048321619 
12mm from this listing

13mm will probably do but 12mm needs to spread slightly to fit and is a nicer fit for these pipes

13mm should be an exact fit and need the clamp pressure to bite

I'm sure 13mm will be fine and work very well but I prefer 12mm as my solution.


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## Takahashi (Oct 30, 2016)

finally got the parts from forge the other day, so i'm doing this on mine today. unsuprisingly ALL the hoses had cracks in them, and were full of sludge.

However, I need a couple more part numbers..

the rubber housing the new billet valve sits in, anyone have that? Also, the rubber/plastic hose attached to that, and the angled pipe going into the block (to the right of the oil stick), all of this is cracked or perished on mine. and the pipe going into the block is snapped mst of the way though (no wonder i never thought this car was quick....)


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## Takahashi (Oct 30, 2016)

part numbers and prices for the tube coming out of the oil filter housing on the block, valve housing, seals and plastic pipe

P A06A 103 213 F - TUBE - 27.93










P AN 904 673 01 - SEAL - 4.76
P A037 121 142 A - SPRING - 0.88
P A06 103 247 - HOUSING - 4.45










P A06A 103 213 AK - TUBE - 44.53










The reason I've ordered this for mine, is that the top tube had snapped most of the way round - leak. So it needs replacing. The plastic hose at the bottom had cracks in and was missing the bottom of it - leak. and the valve housing could be squashed by hand and wouldnt retain its shape. seems pointless replacing everything else, and not touching these parts!


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## Cee Apple (Jun 15, 2017)

Hi Wak,

i was recently told to change vaccum hose (didnt have a scooby what the guy meant) starting to realise he meant this what sort of benefits would you see? also I am fair certain mine will be the standard one from 2002 180HP quattro model.

Please could you explain why is so good the change?

Cheers,
Apple

P.S I'm new to customizing cars! and AUDI know a lot more about cars than me!


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

My system worked well... I just pulled all that stuff out!! Problems solved.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Cee Apple said:


> Hi Wak,
> 
> i was recently told to change vaccum hose (didnt have a scooby what the guy meant) starting to realise he meant this what sort of benefits would you see? also I am fair certain mine will be the standard one from 2002 180HP quattro model.
> 
> ...


180s do suffer some hose issues more often the Y hoses on the manifold compress or split which effect the breather systems or block them if compressed which in turn will effect emissions

but these hoses in my post are not the same as you have.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Takahashi said:


> finally got the parts from forge the other day, so i'm doing this on mine today. unsuprisingly ALL the hoses had cracks in them, and were full of sludge.
> 
> However, I need a couple more part numbers..
> 
> the rubber housing the new billet valve sits in, anyone have that? Also, the rubber/plastic hose attached to that, and the angled pipe going into the block (to the right of the oil stick), all of this is cracked or perished on mine. and the pipe going into the block is snapped mst of the way though (no wonder i never thought this car was quick....)


An upgrade alternative to the crank bits is this from 034 motorsports


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## Cee Apple (Jun 15, 2017)

Wak said:


> Cee Apple said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Wak,
> ...


Oh ok, is it likely to have a split and I wouldn't know when driving?

Cheers,
Apple


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Cee Apple said:


> Oh ok, is it likely to have a split and I wouldn't know when driving?
> 
> Cheers,
> Apple


Leaks are always possible from small ones with small less noticeable effects to big one last that you may feel like power is down leak testing is the only way to help review the car


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Wak said:


> Leaks are always possible from small ones with small less noticeable effects to big one last that you may feel like power is down leak testing is the only way to help review the car


Hi Wak,

I replaced and repaired most of the above crankcase breather hoses 8 weeks ago but my symptoms are still there and actually getting worse?! VCDS shows no fault codes......
Symptom: on cold start up very rough idling (now actually stalling) but after a few seconds it goes away and thereafter car drives fine. When engine is warm, no start up symptoms. Turbo is spooling fantastically and no lack of boost, either.

Could a leaking injector seal be causing these symptoms? For example, after shutting engine down, fuel is leaking out injector seal, pooling and on cold startup there is excess fuel causing these symptoms??

I know I need to get a proper leak test done but just don't have the time just now.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Injector seals are air seals if you were leaking fuel then it would be a faulty injector.

From cold 
You could release the rail bolts carefully have a magnet tool 
Ignition on to prime pump then off 
Release connectors and conduit
Pull the rail out and check injector tips

But I don't think you have a leaky injector.

Could be a coolant sensor, fuel pump or failing lambda or perhaps a vacuum leak leaning up that's better when warm as it could be lumpy pre lambda regulation which is about a minute after starting

Difficult to second guess without going through some checks first


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Wak said:


> Injector seals are air seals if you were leaking fuel then it would be a faulty injector.
> 
> From cold
> You could release the rail bolts carefully have a magnet tool
> ...


I already replaced the coolant temp sensor trying to chase this issue down. Thanks for the suggestions, I realise it's hard to diagnose remotely.... I'd gladly bring it to you to sort out, just a tad too far 

I'll have to wait until my mechanic is back from hols [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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