# Mk2 tt stereo changeout/build



## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

finally got round to starting the build

Started at the front removing the head unit, i used these parts for adapting to non oem double din unit.
http://www.connects2.co.uk/ProductInfor ... &p=CTKAU03

made sure electrics off and key out of the ignition.


if you get sent this release key, its for units with vertical release slots, i needed the more pointed one for horizontal release slots as in the connects 2 link above.

i put the release keys in each slot carefully (make sure they are the right way round) until locked home this releases the sprung locking tabs on the head unit.

gently eased the head unit out of the facia, not all the way as the passenger air bag indicator needs to be unplugged before the head unit can be removed. The cable is quite flimsy and not very long you can only get it out about 3 inches

the plug for this unit is a sod to get off, it has a little sprung clip that holds it on, half way along its length you can just see a little silver bump, if you zoom in you can just see the end of a little screwdriver pressed against it.

this little bump it what holds the plug on, to release it you can either - press the 2 springs on either side of the passenger air bag light assembly and push the whole assembly forward out of the facia so that you can get to the plug more easily or put a small screwdriver into the gap between the plug and the assembly to release the assembly from the plug then pull the plug off, either way you need to be careful - the wires/plug are flimsy, there is not much room to work. You can then pull the head unit out and disconnect the main unit plugs. You are then left with this. The white plug is a fakra plug for the aerial system. In my case it is a double fakra (2 aerials) make sure they send you the right one, some cars only have single fakra. 


I then pushed the passenger air bag assembly back into the new facia adaptor

pushed the new cage into the new facia adaptor to check fit, be careful not to scratch it - tight fit but don't lock the cage onto the facia yet

i offerred up the cage and facia to the opening to check fit. It was very tight so as i was going to be taking it in and out a bit, i eased off the corners with a file to make a slightly looser fit. We are talking fractions here, tiny amounts.


I pushed the facia into the opening, locked it on then pushed the cage into the opening and locked it onto the facia adaptor with a few of the tabs. When you push the cage into the adaptor it locks the facia adaptor in place. you cannot put the adaptor into the dash opening with the cage fitted. You're then ready to connect up your head unit,

took a pic of the wiring diagram for the oem unit and the oem plug wires whilst i was at it, might i need it later. 


next to the back end to prepare for the sub and amps/processor install.
removed side panels and tools ready for sound deadening

started to put sound deadening in. half way there!

that's better!

finally putting back the tool inserts

the black ring in the bootwell is the levelling base for the fibreglass sub moulding which goes in now!



alcantara covered to match interior trim. The sub box is moulded to the boot shape and although looks big it is all below floor level except the bit in the corner. more revealed later. I could have used a smaller sub but i'll be using a jl10w7. Massive subs and they need about 1.2cu/ft but i like bass and didn't want to compromise on sound whilst still being able to use most of the boot space. Next - to the amps/processor racks. 2 versions to see which i prefer.
base

top

router mould for windows




slotted base to hold top box

nearly there on version 1


now for boot floor;
bought some 12mm mdf, laid the original carpet on top upside down, marks up size well as the carpet is thick

curves cut and smooth edges

cut template for sub surround, lay cardboard on the same size mdf because the sub box is sloped so you need the max size opening then smooth underside of mdf at 45deg to get nice tight fit allowing for carpet

then onto amps and processor fitting location mk2, realised i had enough room in front of sub for double layer compartment 10cm high, processor on the bottom and 2 amps on top. Cooling fans will be required. Mounting blocks made for first layer 35mm glued to dynamat (not structural and can be removed when selling car)


Bottom processor base slotted on one side for oem pipe/wiring, gap left on one side for processor wiring

right hand side of top plate mounts on seat mounting plate so plate grooved out to fit ensuring it doesn't go through the top surface, this helps keep it located in the right position before screwing down so holes line up each time.

side of amp top plate made, notice it has to be shaped at the front as the seat folds into the gap when seat is down


also shaped at the back to allow fan smooth flow into both compartments when eventually installed

centre section templates for fan base/control panel and fuse box, notice gap to allow cable routing to processor/amps/fans between sub and poly base so wiring will be out of sight.

made - ready for action and also forms base for side piece. Everything is a tight fit with 1mm allowed for alcantara trimming.

tend to use these inserts (m3 tiny!) keeps it tidy

now for fan/control housing!
cool air conditioned air through this oem position

using thermostatically controlled fans variable speed (pushing and pulling) these aren't the cheapest but are incredibly quiet (about 16db flat out) and move a large amount of air for their size

wiring loom for fans made using fused relay, just need to finish off with braiding to tidy up. Connections all sleeved.

audi must have been thinking of me when they designed this unused slot, notice the convenient ledge on the back edge and the slotted openings on each side at the front





touch screen controller 
fan housing


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## Ridgmont61 (Dec 6, 2011)

Excellent write up - I am also looking to change head unit so I am reading with great interest.


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## binary01 (Feb 26, 2013)

yep lots of great info wellhouse, I've had my headunit out and apart with the intention of changing the unit.

so far though just added a Yatour USB/card reader to the CD changer connector just to provide additional music feed.

I'm still considering putting a nexus into the fascia but I'm building a list of features I'd like but this means I'd need to test a lot and sort out securing and protecting it. There's some great info over on the mp3car forum which is making it even more tricky to choose what I want to have :roll:

Keep the pictures coming.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

More or less any old music system will do for me but that doesn't stop me enjoying reading this sort of thread where you use your own skills to achieve an aim. Good work and informative write up. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Does your work include using these sort of skills? You have lots of tools including a router guide for kitchen work tops, you make router guides for the windows and I note how the front and rear sides of the amp box are slotted into the base - hence the question.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

brittan said:


> More or less any old music system will do for me but that doesn't stop me enjoying reading this sort of thread where you use your own skills to achieve an aim. Good work and informative write up. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> Does your work include using these sort of skills? You have lots of tools including a router guide for kitchen work tops, you make router guides for the windows and I note how the front and rear sides of the amp box are slotted into the base - hence the question.


no i'm not a carpenter (oil business) but have been into this sort of thing for a long time so know what designs work. In the late 60's early 70's there was a lot more effort put into practical skills (carpentry/electronics) at school and i guess that paid off in the long term. The kitchen router guide belongs to someone else. It's not rocket science but patience and some trial and error is required. Starting on version 2 amp rack mock up this afternoon and starting on the amp/processor wiring loom. The version 1 looks big but it's actually pretty small, fits across the boot from side to side and the amps and processor are small - 27x22cm each for the amps and 15x22cm for the processor.
Version 2 will be under the floor in front of the sub, backlit with cooling fan and acrylic window in boot carpet to show off the 'goodies' providing there is enough room there. I may have to overlap/layer/angle the amps to get everything in but we will see. A second acoustic layer will go on top of the dynamat/skinz but the metal work in the boot now has a lot more 'mass' which stops any flexing/drumming. The metal is very thin and flexible at the back end. The gap between the sub and tools on the right i am intending to make a mould for (expanding foam filled/sanded to shape). This will fit the remaining tools from the left hand side (jack etc) to shape so it should look oem when finished.


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

great write-up...pics = 1000 words.... would be nice to have a permanant 'ice' section with the ipad mini install and this one showing how a write-up should be done. Will look forward to following this....has anyone found a way to get 'vid' on an RNS-E 3g.... ( not 2g ) :?

will you be using the 'bose' amp ?


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

TTsdsgomg said:


> great write-up...pics = 1000 words.... would be nice to have a permanant 'ice' section
> 
> + 1 not sure how easy it is to do, I had to do a fair bit of searching around before I did my install. Most difficult thing is getting the trims off and back without breaking things.
> 
> ...


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Can I recommend the looking at the JL 10TW3 shallow sub I have two in mine they only need 1/2 cubic foot and the bass is something else, should fit in the spare wheel well with the amps above it leaving you a load more boot


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Nice work.

I think you may want to dampen the sheet metal behind the rear bumper too. It's thin and hasn't got an awful lot of shapes and curves in it to be resonating free.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

TTsdsgomg said:


> great write-up...pics = 1000 words.... would be nice to have a permanant 'ice' section with the ipad mini install and this one showing how a write-up should be done. Will look forward to following this....has anyone found a way to get 'vid' on an RNS-E 3g.... ( not 2g ) :?
> 
> will you be using the 'bose' amp ?


currently i am using the audi amp to drive the audi speakers from my pioneer head unit with a proper sub amp to drive the sub while the build continues, however because the audi and bose amps are very poor/low in power and to an extent prone to failure (water ingress?) i will be using proper amps because the oem amps are not man enough to drive subs or a decent set of components. Either an Audison lrx4.1k or JL HD750/1 and JL HD600/4 which will allow me to go 'active' at the front, i also have these spare from a previous install so good to use them again. Thanks for the kind words.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

TT-driver said:


> Nice work.
> 
> I think you may want to dampen the sheet metal behind the rear bumper too. It's thin and hasn't got an awful lot of shapes and curves in it to be resonating free.


I know what you mean, it's as flimsy as the boot floor metal you can actually flex it with your thumb quite easily. You'll be pleased to hear i did it at the same time, dynamat plus silent coat isolator 4 and some mlv on top. No rattles or squeaks from that end now and as dead as a dodo!


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

robokn said:


> Can I recommend the looking at the JL 10TW3 shallow sub I have two in mine they only need 1/2 cubic foot and the bass is something else, should fit in the spare wheel well with the amps above it leaving you a load more boot


had a good listen to tw3's and whilst i am a convert to the jlw3 subs (great value for money) the tw3 shallow design didn't do it for me. They don't go as low as a w7 (tw3 about 40hz in a sealed box - can't be run ported) and although the tw's in pairs 'punch' well its not in the same league as w7's or some other high end subs. (i guess some of the huet guys run 8w7's for a reason!) 2 tw3's would use not far off the same volume box as i am currently using by the time you add the sub volume. Still great subs in a limited space but i would rather run 2 x jl10w3's personally if i was going that route. Thanks for the heads up though, you might recognise these from a previous install of mine (2 x jl10w3v3's)


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## binary01 (Feb 26, 2013)

Looks odd how the Connects CTKAU03 comes with a single fakra connector for the ariel when we've got in our mk2 models is double connector.

Did you ordered a CT27AA25 (http://www.connects2.co.uk/UniversalProductInformation.aspx?id=CT27AA25) in addition to improve the receiver quality, or will the single one in the kit be ok ?

Of course assuming you've changed the HU.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

binary01 said:


> Looks odd how the Connects CTKAU03 comes with a single fakra connector for the ariel when we've got in our mk2 models is double connector.
> 
> Did you ordered a CT27AA25 (http://www.connects2.co.uk/UniversalProductInformation.aspx?id=CT27AA25) in addition to improve the receiver quality, or will the single one in the kit be ok ?
> 
> Of course assuming you've changed the HU.


if you order from car audio security (the're cheaper than most but you might save a few quid if you hunt around) 
http://caraudiosecurity.com
specify the double fakra if that is what is on your car. This is a double amplified aerial fakra that comes with the kit, the pioneer radio i've installed works perfectly with it. You also need to tell the vendor which head unit you have so they can supply the right patch lead to the can bus controller for your multi function steering wheel. Make sure you tell them whether you have the horizontal or vertical unlocking keys. Like most kits they are generic and audi have different specs for different tt's but the keys and fakra plug are the only thing that will effect your conversion to non oem double din. Connects 2 have also updated the can bus controller to give slightly more functionality make sure they put the CTSAD002.2 can bus controller in the kit instead of the CTSAD002 if you have steering wheel control. Might as well get the most out of it!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

You need to use only one of the FM leads, so the single one is fine. Ive done it no probs.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> You need to use only one of the FM leads, so the single one is fine. Ive done it no probs.


if you've got the double fakra plug and you are buying new, why would you only want to use one aerial? It may work but the diversity aerial was installed by audi for a reason? (maybe)


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

wellhouse said:


> the minty1 said:
> 
> 
> > You need to use only one of the FM leads, so the single one is fine. Ive done it no probs.
> ...


When I bought the Connects kit, it came with only one and I thought Feck. Spoke with a good local installer and he said it is not essential. What he said was try in each connector one signal would be better than the other one. I was lucky first time! Saves some cash if your a tight Scot like me.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> wellhouse said:
> 
> 
> > the minty1 said:
> ...


aaah - that explains it. (bad news is it didn't cost me any extra from cas :mrgreen: )


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

Looks Great.... Which Pioneer Head Unit did you go for? Any photos?


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

illingworth22 said:


> Looks Great.... Which Pioneer Head Unit did you go for? Any photos?


pioneer f30bt with app radio update, voice control, nav, bluetooth etc, i'll get some pics up later but here is a u tube of it. Great unit!


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

more pics added to first section as install continues!


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

You need to send these to JL Audio FAO Mark as he would be most impressed as I am looking forward to hearing it are you going to Gaydon tomorrow, Convoy??


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

I have read this post several times now and it makes me want to do my install myself! Unfortunately I work 6 days a week and Sunday is a proper day of rest  [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bomb.gif]

I am wondering if I should just have my Head Unit (Kenwood DNN9230DAB) and have a go at doing the rest of the instal myself! These kind of post are truly inspiring!


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

illingworth22 said:


> I have read this post several times now and it makes me want to do my install myself! Unfortunately I work 6 days a week and Sunday is a proper day of rest  [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bomb.gif]
> 
> I am wondering if I should just have my Head Unit (Kenwood DNN9230DAB) and have a go at doing the rest of the instal myself! These kind of post are truly inspiring!


Fitting the head unit is seriously easy, if you were over here i'd do it for you. Shouldn't take you more than an hour if you take it easy. Go on - have a go - if you are worried i'll pm my number and if you get stuck you could give me a call.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Paul, You going tomorrow?


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

would have loved to - but Glastonbury tomorrow, it would have been great to see all the tt's together, next one maybe?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I am normally there missing it big time

Sent from my iPhone using Magic


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## Bayley (May 8, 2013)

Cracking mod mate, thanks for posting.

This will go on my things to do list


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

is this where the TT Sub was located? (top right just behind the seat?)


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

illingworth22 said:


> is this where the TT Sub was located? (top right just behind the seat?)


not on mine. I could have got an 8inch sub in the corner where the audi amp is with a moulded box shaped in the corner and slightly over the top of the wheel arch which would have kept the boot totally clear and looking oem but i really wanted to use the 10w7 which needs more room. Cheers.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Need to meet up at some point and let you listen to how deep these actually go

Sent from my iPhone using Magic


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

robokn said:


> Need to meet up at some point and let you listen to how deep these actually go
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Magic


look forward to it, always good to listen to others kit in the real world. Hoping to find time to do some trimming, then main wiring looms at the weekend with luck then i can start powering up. Then 3 way door speakers to do. Would have loved the jehnert build (maybe not quite as many mids as you - very expensive!) Cheers.


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

wellhouse said:


> brittan said:
> 
> 
> > More or less any old music system will do for me but that doesn't stop me enjoying reading this sort of thread where you use your own skills to achieve an aim. Good work and informative write up. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> ...


Do you want to sell version 1  ?


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

This has to be my most read thread and I am truly inspired :!: 
Can I ask a few questions please?

1 Sub Molding
a) Who made this?
b) Is it covered in Alcantara for a reason other than looks?
c) Who covered it in the material?
d Your first post pictures show a hole for one speaker, where is the second situated (I am still trying to get my head round Sub Box construction, e.g. are they sealed or do they have a hole to let sound out, need carpet on inside ect)?
e) you state in one of the posts the following "except the bit in the corner, more revealed later" what is the More?

2 Wiring.... where did you get the Amp feed for the the Sub? Is this Phono connection?

3 How much Boot Height did you loose?

4 Connects2 is this a case of unplugging the stereo and hooking up this Connects2 cable between the existing wiring and the new stereo?

5 If you were going to go a stage further and add a new set of door speakers would you use the existing speaker wire or would you run new wire to the doors?

Once again this has truly inspired me and as an ex Gaming Machine engineer I really should do this install on my own.... My only problem is a lack of the right tools as I will be at my parents for the time I visit UK.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

illingworth22 said:


> This has to be my most read thread and I am truly inspired :!:
> Can I ask a few questions please?
> 
> pm sent, quicker for a quick call i can answer all your questions in more detail. I build all my installs.


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## firsttwodie (May 22, 2013)

I have just tried to change out my Symphony II system for a Pioneer and have the CTSAD002.2 lead but am getting no sound, stereo powers up and column controls function, just no sound. I have just plugged the leads in and not altered anything what am I doing wrong? I have full BOSE on a 56 plate Roadster can you point me in the right direction? [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

firsttwodie said:


> I have just tried to change out my Symphony II system for a Pioneer and have the CTSAD002.2 lead but am getting no sound, stereo powers up and column controls function, just no sound. I have just plugged the leads in and not altered anything what am I doing wrong? I have full BOSE on a 56 plate Roadster can you point me in the right direction? [smiley=bigcry.gif]


sounds like you may not have connected the blue remote lead to the loom plug to power up subs. Other options are rca's not connected also the canbus adaptor has to be plugged in an exact order but if swc is working, prob. not that. Have you got pictures?
http://www.connects2downloads.co.uk/c2/ ... D002.2.pdf (loom plug last)

see this, should help with the remote wire! On mine it comes with a separate sprung clip that pushes into the loom plug to power up the aerial amp and the separate blue wire on the kit shares this wire to power up amps. (if that makes sense) There are other ways of doing it but the amps need a 12v connection to their 'sense' wire to switch on but only when ignition on.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=246134&hilit=td695gd&start=120

scroll down a few lines and you will see pics of what i am talking about.


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## firsttwodie (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for the info I had just came up with the same conclusion but stereo wire listed as (blue/white) states system remote. worried about blowing something up again (reason new head unit being fitted). Will plug in and test.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

firsttwodie said:


> Thanks for the info I had just came up with the same conclusion but stereo wire listed as (blue/white) states system remote. worried about blowing something up again (reason new head unit being fitted). Will plug in and test.


if you get me a closeup, i'll try to help, i'm pretty sure you are not connected up on the remote side. If you overload remote out on head unit you will kill the head unit output (they can normally handle about 0.5-0.7amps) But providing you are connecting to the bose amp remote wire on the oem loom you will be fine. (did you see pictures in the link to tt post i provided just above?)


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## firsttwodie (May 22, 2013)

Thanks Wellhouse I have now connected the Blue/White wire from the Pioneer loom to the Blue wire on the CTSAD002.2 and it has burst into life, I thought this may have been the case but just needed a push in the right direction to do it. It didn't help as the wire had a label on it saying system remote, Amp remote would have been more helpful.
Thanks again for your help


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

firsttwodie said:


> Thanks Wellhouse I have now connected the Blue/White wire from the Pioneer loom to the Blue wire on the CTSAD002.2 and it has burst into life, I thought this may have been the case but just needed a push in the right direction to do it. It didn't help as the wire had a label on it saying system remote, Amp remote would have been more helpful.
> Thanks again for your help


No problem, glad you got it sorted.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

next step shaped boot floor (excuse mdf dust on sub box)


next step drill hole roughly in the right place to mark off cooling fan controller in boot floor

white piece of paper on controller then mark through hole in boot floor onto paper and then measure in each direction from mark so you know where to cut out in boot floor


job done! to get nice straight line with jigsaw put a straight edge alongside the jigsaw bottom plate parallel to the cut you want to make. Next to fit is the sub and power distribution blocks.


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

As ever Paul is working to super fine Tollerences! For all this info I think I am going to send you a Box of Chocs in the post :wink: it sound good even in its early stage!


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

looking forward to them chocs!  
0awg for the main power supplies - makes the 4awg look tiny!

Audison fuse holder, expensive but contains the negative and positive terminal block so easier and neater for runs.


nearly there, marked line for outgoing power supplies to go under the floor ready for drilling

JL10w7 anniversary fitted, trim ring made to show the jl chrome fitting cover ring around sub.

these subs have a huge amount of excursion so no grill on these.


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## MaXius (May 15, 2009)

With that angle, you'll hafta dampen the hell out of your boot lid to shut it up


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

MaXius said:


> With that angle, you'll hafta dampen the hell out of your boot lid to shut it up


+1
Very close to the rear shelf. Hey MaXius, I hope that you are well. How have you got on with your install?


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## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

Impressive work mate.

W7 is a serious bit of kit.

What HU are you changing to?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

We need to meet up at some point, swap idea's and have alisten to each others builds


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> MaXius said:
> 
> 
> > With that angle, you'll hafta dampen the hell out of your boot lid to shut it up
> ...


I drove around with a sub box in the boot for about 3 weeks trying every position and angle before building the fibreglass box. (not something you want to do more than once) It's angled so that there is no issues with the boot lid, in fact not one rattle! (yet) Getting down to about 35hz (measured with a bit more tweeking to do. I found that rear corner works best from a sound point of view, the other corners including behind the seat and under the floor, didn't sound quite as good.


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

Lyons said:


> Impressive work mate.
> 
> W7 is a serious bit of kit.
> 
> What HU are you changing to?


Haven't settled on one yet, the pioneer f30/40 takes some beating, but a worthwhile (noticeable) difference maybe modifying a mark levinson/proceed piece of kit from my home cinema, starting to get serious with the drawing board and definitely not for the faint hearted! (worth more than the car). Never seem to have enough time, this weekend is fully taken up and more concerts in the offing during the summer. Next up i have to get the Audison bit one processor installed and get the power cables wrapped and finished.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

What front speaker are you going for? 
The gain for my subs is down at minimum. You want balanced quality sound rather than ear bleeding bass. What I found is the vent behind the bumper to let out sound pressure can be heard blowing off, which is a bit annoying, but not much you can do with that.
But I am sure you are already aware of that, judging by the effort put in so far. Good stuff.


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

the minty1 said:


> What front speaker are you going for?
> The gain for my subs is down at minimum. You want balanced quality sound rather than ear bleeding bass. What I found is the vent behind the bumper to let out sound pressure can be heard blowing off, which is a bit annoying, but not much you can do with that.
> But I am sure you are already aware of that, judging by the effort put in so far. Good stuff.


I have seen this Man at work, believe you, me the Saying "if a Job is worth doing, it's worth doing right" is an understatement on Paul's workmanship!
And he is a Yorkshire Man


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> What front speaker are you going for?
> The gain for my subs is down at minimum. You want balanced quality sound rather than ear bleeding bass. What I found is the vent behind the bumper to let out sound pressure can be heard blowing off, which is a bit annoying, but not much you can do with that.
> But I am sure you are already aware of that, judging by the effort put in so far. Good stuff.


Audison avk6 3 way components, may install some morels or mille's if I'm not happy but the avk6 3 ways are pretty good

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

All that just to hear a bit of music :lol:


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

moro anis said:


> All that just to hear a bit of music :lol:


i feel like that sometimes :lol:


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

wellhouse said:


> moro anis said:
> 
> 
> > All that just to hear a bit of music :lol:
> ...


Once its up and running every time you use your car, it will be Yes, good job, well worth the time and effort. Thats what I think anyway, and Ive been finished for 3months


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## StevieW (Feb 1, 2013)

Totally inspiring read this post is.

Amazing work and some great DIY skills on display.

Well Done with this. [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=guitarist.gif]


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