# Installing 6-point Harnesses



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Well i couldn't find anywhere with a clear guide for installing harnesses into the TT, specifically 6-point harnesses that require 4 Eyelets in total. Obviously i won't be dealing with the shoulder straps here, but these will need to either wrap around a purpose made harness bar, or a roll cage.

For a start lets look at the MSA Blue Book 2016 for their guidance, the link for the full version can be found here;

https://www.msauk.org/assets/2016bbcompletelow-res-1.pdf

The Guidelines for the harness angles are as follows;



It's vital that the shoulder straps are as close to horizontal as possible, to allow them to function as intended. Also note that the lap straps should ideall be at a 45 degree angle backwards from the seat holes and the AS Belts (Anti-submarine) should be within 20 degrees of the seat hole.

These are the MSA Guidelines for mounting points;



The main issue i had was the floor pan profile, with tunnels all over the place and fuel and brakelines running under the car in this area. So here's my newly installed eyelet locations;





To install these, you'll need to mark-up your location, and working up through the sizes of HSS drill bits you'll need to end up with a 12mm hole. You'll then need to line up a plate with the hole and then mark-up another hole, this time 5mm in diameter to allow you to rivet the plate into place once installed (This serves the purpose of preventing rotation of the plate and also keeping the plate in place whenever you remove the eyelet.). So for the drivers' side you'll need to drill 3 new locations as per the photo above.

The first is the tunnel nearest the door. Below this are the fuel lines so extreme care must be taken. I unclipped the 3 lines and then placed a piece of plywood over the lines, under the car floor, so when i drilled through the floor i only hit the plywood. Once you've installed using the above method, you will need to clip the white fuel line to the outside position rather then inner central as standard, this will allow the lines to run around the newly installed nut and plate.



The second plate is a tad easier, as you can see above there are no fuel lines to avoid, just use the same method to install!

The third plate will need to be in the tunnel side wall, this is for your lap strap. To access this you'll need to remove the exhaust hanger bracket, which will allow the tunnel heatshield to pop out of place. This should allow, with a bit of fiddling, enough access to drill through the tunnel and then install a new mounting plate and eyelet. You can see there is about 15-20mm of space between the end of my eyelet and the prop shaft.



And that's that done, it's not the hardest of jobs, but was a bit daunting without much info on here! Passenger side is virtually the same, but with brake lines instead of fuel lines on the first (Outside) eyelet!

Special bonus points can be awarded if you manage to nab some free of charge Black PPC coated rivets from a supplier, for that added touch! :lol: Also shout out to the guys that sent me pics of their setups, this helped me form a plan and is much appreciated! 

Hope this helps anyone looking!


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Will be doing this soon in my project, thanks.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

To add to what Nick provided in this tutorial, here is what I gathered from doing mine. For lap belts I used the factory seatbelt holes. For my seating position they landed within the approved angle for the laps. Both locations are raised, so there is no real need for risers.



















For those using a 5-point harness, here is a guide for the anchoring. My harness is the OEM-style anchoring, not the eyelet kind. My car is also US-spec, so you have to deal with the brake lines instead of the fuel lines for the driver's seat. On the AS belt, with this kind of harness, you have to use a riser to prevent the belt from being pinched on the flat floor. Large load whashers are used on both side for a secure anchor point.





































Here is a good harness mount guide. Each belt manufacturer, or sanctioning body allow different angles for harness mounting. The guidelines in this will give you safe angles that will also pass the requirement of the most strict sanctioning bodies.










As you can see above, it is important that the AS belt is anchored behind the driver's chest line. Some guides will say that the acceptable range is from 20* before-to-20* after the vertical point (from the seat slot). DO NOT go by this and always make sure the AS belt anchor point is behind the chest line. In many cases this will not be inside the +/- 20* range.

Here is mine:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Just to add to the rear angle information - the half cage fitted here is a Safety Devices half cage with a harness bar and is a very common item for MK1 TT's - this is how it looks:


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> Just to add to the rear angle information - the half cage fitted here is a Safety Devices half cage with a harness bar and is a very common item for MK1 TT's - this is how it looks:


A thing o' Beauty is that! I'm skimping out on a harness bar until I go full cage!


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