# Bose amp is pooped. Crackling speakers. What are my options?



## naughts4187 (Apr 26, 2013)

Ok so got into my November 2007 TT this morning to be greeted with a delightful crackle from the rear left speaker. 
From reading all other threads it sounds like the common Bose corrosion problem.

I'm going to whip it out this weekend and inspect but I'm not hoping for anything.

So.... based on the cost of a new amp is quite a fair bit (just been quoted £600 by Jonny at Lincoln), I'm thinking of going aftermarket, and having PDA car in Harrogate do a new system, amp, speakers & wiring. I want to keep my RNS-E head unit however, can this be done?

PDA have not done an Audi Bose to aftermarket before so they are a bit vague.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!


----------



## leethorpe (Oct 12, 2013)

naughts4187 said:


> Ok so got into my November 2007 TT this morning to be greeted with a delightful crackle from the rear left speaker.
> From reading all other threads it sounds like the common Bose corrosion problem.
> 
> I'm going to whip it out this weekend and inspect but I'm not hoping for anything.
> ...


I had the same problem about 3 months ago.

I managed to remove the amp and clean all the gunk off caused by the condensation in the wheel arch. I then took the main board to a local elctronic engineer that specialises in PCB repairs, he ended up just cleaning up the affected chip and it didn't need any soldering even though 2 pins had completely eroded away. I then bought some PCB laquer from Maplins to spray all over and waterproof the circuitry so it didn't happen again. Fortunately when I put it all back together it sounded better than ever and hasn't caused any issues since.

I did notice a couple of adds on eBay that were willing to hndel the whole process but if you are confident enough it was a straightforward process.

I just need to change the vag com settings now to deal with the bass levels.

Lee


----------



## tomos8304 (Mar 1, 2013)

I've just taken mine apart and U24 is quite corroded but U26 has a few prongs missing where is the best place too send it for repair and what sort of price does it cost


----------



## naughts4187 (Apr 26, 2013)

> I had the same problem about 3 months ago.
> 
> I managed to remove the amp and clean all the gunk off caused by the condensation in the wheel arch. I then took the main board to a local elctronic engineer that specialises in PCB repairs, he ended up just cleaning up the affected chip and it didn't need any soldering even though 2 pins had completely eroded away. I then bought some PCB laquer from Maplins to spray all over and waterproof the circuitry so it didn't happen again. Fortunately when I put it all back together it sounded better than ever and hasn't caused any issues since.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice Lee. I will examine this weekend and try to establish what's going on - could be a loose connection or could be worse. I'll definitely go in there and clean it all up. Quite staggering really how some bright spark at Audi all those years ago thought to put an amp in an area so susceptible to moisture.


----------



## TT20TDI (Oct 12, 2013)

It would be nice if someone has retrofitted a system as i want to upgrade the one in her car, I have a bang & olufsen in my A4 theres a big difference, there is a lot of road noise in the TT's as I understand there is no soundproofing on these little cars.


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

Hi. My left speaker isn't working and now my right speaker is beginning to make crackling noises. I've recently had the boot full of water due to condensation so I'm guessing that's the problem.

Is it easy to unplug and remove the amp?

A simple guide would be appreciated. (do I have to disconnect the battery?)


----------



## CitizenSlide (Feb 4, 2012)

Olsens said:


> Hi. My left speaker isn't working and now my right speaker is beginning to make crackling noises. I've recently had the boot full of water due to condensation so I'm guessing that's the problem.
> 
> Is it easy to unplug and remove the amp?
> 
> A simple guide would be appreciated. (do I have to disconnect the battery?)


Removing the amp is simple (no need to disconnect the battery). Just remove the floor carpeting and boot innards (containing the tyre repair kit and other gubbins), then remove the rearmost panel (surrounding the boot latch) - this clips via two vertical plastic clips, so you need to give it a fair tug to dislocate them.

Finally the near-side (left) carpeted boot panel can be removed, this clips onto the car via 4 or 5 horizontal clips - just run your finger around the rubber trim (which prevents water seepage when the boot is open) and gradually tease away the trim panel until you hear the clips pulling free. It doesn't require force, just a firm hand.

Once you've removed this panel you'll need a Torx screwdriver (T20 I think) to remove two screws which hold the Amp in place, then there are two multi-pin connectors which you need to remove before the amp can be fully removed.

Just take your time and it can be removed in a little over 5 minutes.


----------



## naughts4187 (Apr 26, 2013)

So I whipped the amp out last weekend. Took is apart, and found lots of tiny stones inside, amongst some gunky looking green algae on the PCB.

The amp was in very good nick otherwise so I had hope. I let it warm up to room temperature for a couple of days and cleaned it up gently with some makeup brushes (yep for the weekends). Eventually got the algae off and 7 days of driving singing to myself later put it back into the car.

All crackling gone, sounds as good as before (which is rubbish of course as it's a terrible system to start with). Now to do a DIY silicone box to absorb moisture around the amp and put the trim back on. I'm pretty happy as I've saved a fair bit on a new amp. Now I can afford a Miltek. Off to Awesome next weekend


----------



## Seafar99 (Nov 22, 2013)

Result!


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

naughts4187 said:


> So I whipped the amp out last weekend. Took is apart, and found lots of tiny stones inside, amongst some gunky looking green algae on the PCB.
> 
> The amp was in very good nick otherwise so I had hope. I let it warm up to room temperature for a couple of days and cleaned it up gently with some makeup brushes (yep for the weekends). Eventually got the algae off and 7 days of driving singing to myself later put it back into the car.
> 
> All crackling gone, sounds as good as before (which is rubbish of course as it's a terrible system to start with). Now to do a DIY silicone box to absorb moisture around the amp and put the trim back on. I'm pretty happy as I've saved a fair bit on a new amp. Now I can afford a Miltek. Off to Awesome next weekend


Nice!! I'll try the same, hopefully soon.


----------



## LaztSWE (Nov 20, 2013)

remember to seal the pcb with a conformal coat after its cleaned, otherwise it will go bad again.


----------



## Mrcoolguy (Dec 10, 2013)

Hi there is a company in Edinburgh who recondition these for around £180. The owner is a TT club member. You can find them on E bay


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

LaztSWE said:


> remember to seal the pcb with a conformal coat after its cleaned, otherwise it will go bad again.


Any tips on how to coat it and what to use? Just spray it with an oxydation protectant?


----------



## jjosh (Oct 13, 2013)

naughts4187 said:


> So I whipped the amp out last weekend. Took is apart, and found lots of tiny stones inside, amongst some gunky looking green algae on the PCB.
> 
> The amp was in very good nick otherwise so I had hope. I let it warm up to room temperature for a couple of days and cleaned it up gently with some makeup brushes (yep for the weekends). Eventually got the algae off and 7 days of driving singing to myself later put it back into the car.
> 
> All crackling gone, sounds as good as before (which is rubbish of course as it's a terrible system to start with). Now to do a DIY silicone box to absorb moisture around the amp and put the trim back on. I'm pretty happy as I've saved a fair bit on a new amp. Now I can afford a Miltek. Off to Awesome next weekend


Nice one! Wonder if sticking a load of silica desiccant/gel sachets would help? Always seem to find them lurking around, especially after xmas! :lol:


----------



## LaztSWE (Nov 20, 2013)

Olsens: Any decent circuit board coat will do, don't know which ones are available in your country, mind the contact points on transistors though, dont wanna mess up the cooling to the heat sink on the crappy bose amp . tape them before spraying or just use a brush (spray the brush if you only find spray can) to avoid getting them coated. and better replace the thermal paste on them also with some new one, computer stores have the good stuff.


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

Just took my amp out. It looks good. No corrosion as far as I can see. Good news, but what to do now? Remove door panels and remove speakers so I can test them? Hmmmm, why sooooo much work. Doh!! 
Pics:


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

Tested the system just now. All the speakers work except the left bass speaker. Heard a little razzle noise from the right bass, might be something loose, and maybe a little crackle noise but that could just be from poor radio signal.

Any ideas what else could be wrong with the left bass??
It's absolutely no sound from the left bass.

If it is broken, should there be absolutely no sound? Or does no sound mean maybe a broken wire or something else?


----------



## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Olsens said:


> Just took my amp out. It looks good. No corrosion as far as I can see. Good news, but what to do now? Remove door panels and remove speakers so I can test them? Hmmmm, why sooooo much work. Doh!!
> Pics:


That doesn't look like the BOSE amp at all.


----------



## therock (Oct 15, 2006)

could it just be 1 channel thats down that goes to the faulty speaker


----------



## frankie1888 (Nov 16, 2012)

Sorry Naughts can't help. However the finish on your car looks amazing! Don't think Ive ever seen the palace blue pearl. Lovely mate!


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

8JVR6 said:


> Olsens said:
> 
> 
> > Just took my amp out. It looks good. No corrosion as far as I can see. Good news, but what to do now? Remove door panels and remove speakers so I can test them? Hmmmm, why sooooo much work. Doh!!
> ...


Oops! I forgot to mention that mine is not a bose amp. Sorry. Audi symphony system, or concert? I dont't remember.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Olsens said:


> Tested the system just now. All the speakers work except the left bass speaker. Heard a little razzle noise from the right bass, might be something loose, and maybe a little crackle noise but that could just be from poor radio signal.
> 
> Any ideas what else could be wrong with the left bass??
> It's absolutely no sound from the left bass.
> ...


For left bass speaker. Remove door trim. Disconnect the connector on top of the bass speaker. Use a AA battery with flying leads and apply over the + and - terminals of the speaker. The speaker should move in one direction. Swap the wires around and it should move in the other. This is an indication that the speaker is working. Also check the condition of the rubber cone surround, it should be intact. Finally if you have a multimeter, set to Ohms and it will probably be 4 to 6ohms. You can try this with all speakers if you feel the need.


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> Olsens said:
> 
> 
> > Tested the system just now. All the speakers work except the left bass speaker. Heard a little razzle noise from the right bass, might be something loose, and maybe a little crackle noise but that could just be from poor radio signal.
> ...


Thank you. I'll try that. 
I hope i can get the door panel off again. Silliconed the plugs to hopefully stop a leak in the front.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Olsens said:


> I hope i can get the door panel off again. Silliconed the plugs to hopefully stop a leak in the front.


I really dont understand why you would silicone anything since you have had so many water leak problems. I would replace all the door clips, as it wouldn't be that expensive and would give you piece of mind.
If you dont want to remove the door trim again, an option would be to test from the amp end if you can get the wiring connections for the plug. I dont have this. If you just remove the bass grille you should be able to see the speaker move in and out.


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> Olsens said:
> 
> 
> > I hope i can get the door panel off again. Silliconed the plugs to hopefully stop a leak in the front.
> ...


I've got new clips. I don't trust them to be watertight.

Anyone know which pins on the connector to the amp is for the left front bass speaker? 
Can i damage anything if i try the AA battery solution on all the pins in the connector?


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Olsens said:


> I've got new clips. I don't trust them to be watertight.
> 
> Anyone know which pins on the connector to the amp is for the left front bass speaker?
> Can i damage anything if i try the AA battery solution on all the pins in the connector?


You may damage something without the wiring diagram. I wouldn't risk it.
There was some one on here posted connections I think it was MaXius, although i don't think he posts often now. I will have a look to see if i have something tomorrow.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

may help

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=160348


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> Olsens said:
> 
> 
> > I've got new clips. I don't trust them to be watertight.
> ...


Thank you. I figured I shouldn't risk it.  will wait/keep searching for wire diagram or just remove the door panel. I'll probably do it next weekend.


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> may help
> 
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=160348


I don't think my amps pins are similar to the bose.
My amp part number is 8j0 035 223 b


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Olsens said:


> the minty1 said:
> 
> 
> > may help
> ...


Olsens you have a pm


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

My left front bass speaker is confirmed broken!
I tried the battery trick, no movement. I applied the wires from the batteri on the amp connector. Didn't want to remove the door panel. (Speaker grille removed to look for movement)

So I tried what I should have tried first. Try to push in the cone. It was stuck. So as a reference i removed my right bass speaker grille and tried the same. That one moved.

So my problem is solved. Will buy new speaker soon 

Thanks to everyone who have helped!
And sorry for hijacking the thread

Edit: my right bass speaker is working, but I think it's blown. It sounds like this:


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Its good you have confirmed your fears, on the left speaker. Check the right speaker by using the battery test, the multi meter and also push the cone gently in you should feel a restistance let go and it should spring out. Movement should be smooth with no catching.
This would be an excellent time to upgrade the speakers, as you will wet your pants at the Audi price as the speaker is part of the speaker mounting moulding. Other option is second hand


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> Its good you have confirmed your fears, on the left speaker. Check the right speaker by using the battery test, the multi meter and also push the cone gently in you should feel a restistance let go and it should spring out. Movement should be smooth with no catching.
> This would be an excellent time to upgrade the speakers, as you will wet your pants at the Audi price as the speaker is part of the speaker mounting moulding. Other option is second hand


An upgrade cheaper than the original audi speakers would be nice. Can tou buy an adapter mounting plate for unoriginal speakers? And what about the wiring, difficult to change?

I'll check the price on the speakers on monday.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

i personally have not changed the speakers and kept everthing else. I fitted a full aftermarket system. Most aftermarket are 165mm. OEM is 200mm. You can buy a mounting kit to take the 165mm specifically to fit the new speakers to the TT. You could make then or partially reuse the mounting. 'Puck' did it
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=263802&start=120


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> i personally have not changed the speakers and kept everthing else. I fitted a full aftermarket system. Most aftermarket are 165mm. OEM is 200mm. You can buy a mounting kit to take the 165mm specifically to fit the new speakers to the TT. You could make then or partially reuse the mounting. 'Puck' did it
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=263802&start=120


Link to 165mm mounting kit? 
It's not possibly to use the oem mounting and just swap the speaker for an aftermarket 200mm one right?

Anyone know the spec of the oem speakers? What ohm?


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

Hi all. 51,50£ for one speaker. (In Norway)
103£ for the pair. Hopefully it's the correct speakers the dealer found the price on.

Not too bad price, so I'm going for those. Easy replacement and no rewiring.

Edit: Correct speakers confirmed. Also orderes extra anchors. The ones inside the door which the screws are screwed into. Some of mine are broken so I have to destroy them completely to get the screws out.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

That price for the speakers is good, plus you will get a new seal on the speakers to give you the seal to the metal part of the door. Easiest option, and yes the plastic bit that secures the speakers in is absolutely rubbish,single use only.
You'll be up and running in no time.


----------



## naughts4187 (Apr 26, 2013)

frankie1888 said:


> Sorry Naughts can't help. However the finish on your car looks amazing! Don't think Ive ever seen the palace blue pearl. Lovely mate!


Thanks bud! Yeah she's unusual, very blue in sunlight but almost black for 99% of the year. Although someone's take a nice chunk out of the rear quarter in a car park this week so she's in need of a bodyshop... fuming...


----------



## Olsens (Jun 1, 2012)

Finally fitted the new speakers. Pain in the a** job because of the plastic bits that holds the screws.
Took about 1,5hours. 
First time I've removed the right side door panel, somebody has been behond there before because the clips etc was f'ed up.

So if you plan on removing the door panel: buy extra clips!!
Part numer for the clips: 6Q0 868 243
Pic of the clip:


Part number for speaker: 8J0 035 412 A
Part numer of the screw retainers: N 909 498 01 (i think. Pic of the tag just in case)


Pic of the part:


----------



## auditt (May 10, 2012)

*INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO PHYSICALLY REMOVE YOUR BOSE AMP*

Here is a video on how to properly remove the side panel and Bose amp.


----------

