# Front strut brace, shocks and rusty rotors



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Has anyone got one fitted? Had them on previous cars and it made the car feel more connected. Just after some experiences on this particular car.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Anyone?


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I haven't, but I'm thinking of fitting on too. I remember how much of an improvement it made to an old car of mine many years ago.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Yeah, me too. Be interested to see if it tightens things up


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Front strut braces are more effective when your strut towers are located further forward in your engine bay. On vehicles where the strut tower is located next to the firewall, the firewall provides enough stiffening to make the addition of a strut brace redundant (probably why there aren't a lot of people making front braces for TT's).

I did note that TyrolSport makes a 'no-drill' rear hatch brace which seems to me would have more effect than a front brace, but I don't own one so that is just conjecture on my part...

See: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/chassis/tyrolsport-hatch-brace-for-tt-rs/


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I had a front strut brace on both the ep3 and fn2 type r, struts in a similar place in front of the firewall. You can feel the difference. Just wondered what it would feel like on the TT. The TT steering feels very light and I'm hoping this mod would give a bit more feel. The slightest change can be felt in braces and arbs. I uprated the ep3 rarb from 19mm to 22mmm thickness and that more or less eliminated understeer.

I also wonder if it's worth polybushing the arb support brackets?


----------



## Needforspeedja (Dec 6, 2015)

Have a look ok this below. Think this is what you are after 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3465274512


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

That's the one I'm interested in.


----------



## Needforspeedja (Dec 6, 2015)

Thought about getting one fitted but haven't come around to getting it done yet. If you do get it fitted, I'm eager to hear if you can feel the difference. Just like yourself had one fitted to another vehicle and made a big difference with how the car felt cornering.


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

The UltraRacing brace (as shown above) is the only one I've ever seen for a Mk2, and it is usually sold exclusively on eBay and not carried by well-known performance part companies. :?

The fact that no other company seems to be interested in making one would tend to indicate that it isn't needed on a TT or it can't be made to fit due to clearance issues. Also, I bet you can't find a picture of one installed on a TT that doesn't have the 'scuttle' panel cover removed (again leading me to believe it doesn't fit).

But if someone wants to be the 'guinea pig' and buy one, I'd love to hear a report.









No scuttle panel example [smiley=huh2.gif]


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I think you'll get more bang for your buck fitting a thicker rear sway bar. Turn in and cornering will be significantly improved especially on a FWD biased car.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

This person says it fits https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 7#p2322077

In this image you can see it










I guess the images have it removed as it shows it more clearly


----------



## french (Oct 7, 2018)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultra-Racing ... Sw9J9dykh0


----------



## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

https://www.google.com/search?q=tt+8j+s ... AnoECAwQBA


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Taylortony said:


> https://www.google.com/search?q=tt+...hUKEwiHwLGptpXoAhURbcAKHULEC-AQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA


Proves my point. Out of all the front strut bars shown, the only one that claims to fit a MK2 TT is the UltraRacing brace (lots of images but if you look closer you'll see they are for Honda's, Nissan's, etc) and the ones that do fit are all sold on eBay...



MT-V6 said:


> This person says it fits https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 7#p2322077
> In this image you can see it
> I guess the images have it removed as it shows it more clearly


I think you're right. If the scuttle panel is in place the bar cannot be seen (negating the 'bling' factor that drives some people to purchase parts for looks only). You can also tell from the picture the brace runs directly over the firewall, where it would have the least affect.



ianpgonzaga said:


> I think you'll get more bang for your buck fitting a thicker rear sway bar. Turn in and cornering will be significantly improved especially on a FWD biased car.


I also agree, a larger rear ASB would be a better use of one's hard-earned money.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

The two I had on my type rs meant it was right next to the firewall, still made a noticeable difference in steering feel, which is what I want. Expect more from the anti lift kit obviously.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Just buy one already then lol


----------



## fertooos (Dec 15, 2019)

I haven't, but I'm thinking of fitting on too. I remember how much of an improvement it made to an old car of mine many years ago.


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Well, I bought one last week and it arrived today.

But, Before fitting it I'm going to spray it black. And will also be fitting coilovers at the same time.

I'll keep you posted, but won't be for another week or so.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

eeeeexcellent! can't wait!

i know it's a pain but would you consider doing the brace only first to see if you can ascertain the change they give on dynamics?

as we all know the coilovers will give a great difference (albeit at a greater cost)


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Yep, the brace should be a quick fit. A report on it's own merits would be good.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Agreed, if at all possible


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Geeeessssss, you lot are fussy aren't you!! :lol:

Seeing as you all asked so nicely, I'll put the brace on first and let you know


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Well done Barry [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Did you fit the brace Barry?


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Flashy said:


> Did you fit the brace Barry?


Not yet. Sprayed it black yesterday as I didn't want it white, so I'll probably fit it this weekend


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Cool.


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

You need to install tin plastic film to prevent contact/galvanic corrosion of the aluminum body from steel struts.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

What, like a gasket for the brace ?


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Flashy said:


> What, like a gasket for the brace ?


Yup, read ssp page 6 for more info http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_383


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Much better if you sell the steel strut bar and upgrade it to Aluminum alloy strut bar


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

What alloy bars fit the mk2 tt?


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

There is an Aluminum alloy strut bar for TT sold @ aliexpress


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

barry_m2 said:


> Flashy said:
> 
> 
> > Did you fit the brace Barry?
> ...


Any news?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> There is an Aluminum alloy strut bar for TT sold @ aliexpress


Got the link for this???


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > There is an Aluminum alloy strut bar for TT sold @ aliexpress
> ...


https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXAZ9dS


----------



## Rene Pogel (Aug 27, 2015)

Am I the only one looking at that "strut" and thinking that it won't do anything noticeable? Even if it's solid aluminium alloy, it looks spindly and flexible. If it was dead straight, it would have a chance, but as soon as bends are introduced, it's no longer effective as a strut, losing most of its tensile and compressive stiffness.

Most of the stiffness of the entire setup probably comes from the turrets being so close to the firewall.

RP


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Rene Pogel said:


> Am I the only one looking at that "strut" and thinking that it won't do anything noticeable?....snip
> ...Most of the stiffness of the entire setup probably comes from the turrets being so close to the firewall.


That's what I argued on the first page of this thread. A bar running directly over the firewall will not notably increase front-end stiffness. 
[smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I've had them on two previous fwd cars and you can feel the difference. Not huge but noticeable. Think about how much increasing the thickness of an arb by a couple of mm can make, yet the arb is already there.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Did you ever fit this Barry?


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I did, but done it at the same time as the shocks so I can't say if it made a difference on its own or not.

This is what I've fitted in the past two weeks...

ST XTA Coilovers
Front Strut Brace
24mm rear ARB

The improvement in ride and handling is amazing. I've not had any understeer at all, not even a glimpse. And even at low speed the turn in, mid corner and exit is a so much better. I've yet to push it hard through a corner but the difference already is just night and day!


----------



## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Watching this thread with interest.

I also had a CTR (FN2) which I fitted a set of coilovers to when the original fronts started leaking. I lasted a month or so before taking them back off and fitting new OE parts.

The problem was that the roads I mostly drive on are so broken up and potholed that having the car stiffer sprung was actually a disadvantage, if you hit a pothole halfway round a corner you would end up with the car becoming really unsettled.
I would concede though that on better roads it did feel good.

So because of this I haven't touched the suspension of the TT, but the dampers are getting tired so it will be time for something soon.

I did fit some 18s when I first got the car, that didn't work either, went back to the 17s within a month or so.


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I went with ST's recommended stetting for damping and even on bumpy roads it soaks up the bumps better than my stock suspension (and the OEM front shocks I had on were only a couple of years old). I might play around a little with the damper settings but to be honest, I think it's pretty good as it is. I've done a few short local journeys and yesterday a 40 mile motorway trip (yes, I'm a key worker  ) and it felt brilliant.

I'm running 19's too, with a 35 profile.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Do you know what the oem rarb thickness is?


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

I can now add my comments regarding a strut brace... Picked one up on the facebook forum for a steal.. £50 still in the packet 

Made a fair few changes to my car very recently, one at a time, so I knew which did what.

If anyone hasn't seen my thread, current list of handling mods pre-brace:
- Yellowspeed coilovers (fully adjustable) & adjustable drop links
- Super-pro anti lift kit & front wishbone bushes
- Tyrol subframe locking kit
- Michelin PS4S tyres ( really do not rate)
- Fast road alignment -2 camber all round, slight toe out (.10 minutes) front and rear.

Above had taken the chassis nicely in the right direction away from the understeer. Still hadn't eliminated it of course but was a vast improvement and weighted the wheels nicely too.

With the brace alone fitted, and also with my tracking out (unseized the most stubborn track rod/nut)
Car felt flatter, not that there was noticeable body roll, but there was an increase mid corner stability feel, additionally initial turn in is also increased for sure.
After reading mixed reviews, I was sceptical, but at the price I thought I'd give it a go.
I am thoroughly impressed with the difference only the strut brace has made, really glad I went for it.

Additionally thought I'd my comments on the other changes I have done.
Rear anti-roll bar, I went for a 24mm Whiteline. For AWD TTS there is only 2 settings, soft or hard.
I set this on soft, from all research I made, everyone who purchases a pair, runs the front on full soft, rear on full hard.
To me buying only the rear and setting this on soft, knowing it was much thicker/stronger than OEM it would keep the balance same as above buying a pair, as I have see a few other FWD TT owners do.

Again hugely noticeable difference to the feel of the car. Makes the car feel like it has rear steer, at first, then it reaches a point where it 'locks' and forces the front of the car round/into the corner harder with less understeer.
Light 18" wheels, additionally in my opinion to swapping tyre brand too, still same with but different profile, much nicer steering weight and feel and makes the car honestly feel more nimble.

All of the above has been 'tested' on my car which already had a fairly strong basis to work from and all the above definitely improved it, all in their own way. Additionally this is all still done with the car after it had been raised 13mm and both track rods unseized and is still waiting for an alignment (not miles off, but only done by my poor eyes :lol: )


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Good news, what make is it? Still thinking of getting one. What's the torque setting for the three nuts on each side?


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Flashy said:


> Good news, what make is it? Still thinking of getting one. What's the torque setting for the three nuts on each side?


It was the Ultra Racing one discussed in this post
Can confirm the scuttle fits with 0 issues.
Also as I'm running the yellow speed coilovers, with custom top mounts with studs, my torque settings are meaningless.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Would oem bolts need replacing for longer threads?


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Flashy said:


> Would oem bolts need replacing for longer threads?


More than likely with the thickness, but as said I'm running custom topmounts which use studs, so standards are long gone :lol:


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Just ordered one.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Do the under-body or interior braces offer much benefit?

https://www.showoffimports.nl/product.p ... ctid=36808


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I'm going for the front one to flatten out the front end as it feels a bit mushy. Worked well on my fn2.


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Do the under-body or interior braces offer much benefit?
> 
> https://www.showoffimports.nl/product.p ... ctid=36808
> 
> ...


BAF K brace does 0 for the chassis or to be used as a harness bar.
It internally mounts onto a piece of folded/formed 1-2mm sheet metal thats bolted to the chasses with m6 bolts. It's flimsy as.
Running my custom made rear strut/harness bar, which was developed for Cloude9 customs and will be available soon.
Made a nice difference to the rear end of the car, along with the front.
Would like to test the underside braces, but I think these will just sit daftly low.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

It's finally arrived, job for the weekend


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks good

If you are still needing them, the 3 bolts should be torqued to 15Nm + 90 degrees (always renew if removed). Thread lock will probably suffice though as that is a surprisingly low torque figure


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Ta. Got some new bolts to use. Never understand the torque to X plus 90 degrees. Why not just a torque figure :roll:


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

If there are degrees specified they are usually stretch bolts


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Well, as usual it was a bit of a PITA. Couldn't get the wiper arms off, nuts were ok but the arms seem to be seized on the splines. Can't force it too much so didn't bother. Meant I had to fit the brace with the scuttle in place. Managed it ok though, as I said a bit of a pain. The fit is excellent. 
Will take it for a test drive later.


----------



## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

I think there is a special tool to pull the wiper from the spline.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Aha, they certainly weren't budging


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I used one of these. The design pretty close to the VAG tool (T10369-1) and it gets the job done. As you tighten it, give the wiper arm a jiggle and it will eventually 'pop' off the spline stud -
*
How to: Plenum Removal for Drain Inspection & Cleaning*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1979747


----------



## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

I've got a similar tool and it does work eventually with a bit of persuasion!

Also watch pinging off the cover caps as they can fly!


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Pleased with it, makes the steering feel more direct. Also, much less scrabbling (well, none) when putting the power down off a roundabout. Good stuff.


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Just replied to your pm, but just seen this post that you've managed to fit it.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Yep, cheers mate.


----------



## Roblav (Jul 8, 2020)

Wolvez said:


> You need to install tin plastic film to prevent contact/galvanic corrosion of the aluminum body from steel struts.


Much easier to use a thin smear of blue Hylomar, its what the product was designed for.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

The bar is painted and so is the bodywork


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Would a thin rubber sheet between the brace and aluminium bodywork suffice? What about the bolt, any need to isolate that with a film of plastic or similar?
I've ordered some more mount bolts.


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Flashy said:


> Would a thin rubber sheet between the brace and aluminium bodywork suffice?


Sandwiching a piece of rubber between your strut tower and your brace is a bad idea as it will allow bolt tension to change as the rubber expands and compresses.

Your strut mount needs to be firmly bolted to your strut tower to prevent movement. Extreme forces are applied every time your wheel encounters a bump or pothole.

If both parts are painted (and the paint is not damaged) then you should be fine. 
However, if your OCD [smiley=freak.gif] like me, I'd take the extra step of spraying the bolt head with something like CRC 06026 Marine corrosion inhibitor after everything has been tightened down.

The stuff sprays on like a thin coat of wax and will prevent moisture from entering and setting up the conditions that cause galvanic corrosion.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Cool. Perhaps I should smear some Hylomar Blue over the face of the brace that touches the bodywork just to be on the safe side? I guess the mount bolts are a galvanized zinc in order to be safe from this problem?


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Just been reading up about ACF-50. Might get a tin of that.


----------



## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Flashy said:


> Just been reading up about ACF-50. Might get a tin of that.


I use this on my motorbike every year, it's a miracle product.

Spray a bit on a brush to apply it; the aerosol goes everywhere.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Can you buy it locally or is it just online?


----------



## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

I've bought online before, Opies oil I think I got it from.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Cheers. I see they have a discount too.


----------



## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Mega motorcycle store stock it, they are behind the old George white building.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Ah, up at Kembrey Park. Cheers


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What are you using it for? To stop the head of the bolt going rusty?


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

MT-V6 said:


> What are you using it for? To stop the head of the bolt going rusty?


Concern over galvanic (bimetallic) corrosion from bolting steel and aluminum parts together.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Both the steel brace and the aluminium bodywork are painted, which helps. The mount bolts I'm sure are galvanized. Can't hurt to give some extra protection with the ACF-50 to be sure.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

But it sounds like you are putting it on the bolt after it is tightened. The only parts covered would be the steel bolt and the steel brace, with the aluminium part exposed. Or are you also going to sandwich it between the wing and brace before fitting it?


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I'll leave the bolts but coat the bodywork and brace contact area. The bolts are oem, so I would imagine are galvanized zinc. Already fitted but I'll remove it to treat it. Got a few spare brand new mount bolts.


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

As Flashy noted, both pieces are painted and that should provide sufficient isolation.

The suggestion to use an anti-corrosive sealer was to add an extra measure of protection by eliminating the ability for moisture to wick under and around the bolt (the one area where paint might be compromised as the fastener bites down). Without an electrolyte (water) corrosion can't take place.

Probably overkill, but cheap and easy to do so why not?


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That does make sense now, was just trying to understand what you meant


----------



## french (Oct 7, 2018)

I was thinking of fitting a strut brace as I have one on my other car & its a great improvement but I don't like the idea of the strut towers taking all that extra force & made from Aluminium...might distort...


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

How would it distort? Think about the job it already does.


----------



## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> but I don't like the idea of the strut towers taking all that extra force & made from Aluminium...might distort...


Adding a strut brace does not generate any extra force.


----------



## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

Anyone fitted the ultra racing one on a dsg TTS ?

It looks like there is a breather pipe outlet from the diverter valve that fouls the strut brace ?







Not sure what this part does !


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Pretty sure Bar End has one fitted on his TTS.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

Nidana said:


> Pretty sure Bar End has one fitted on his TTS.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thanks Nidana, will msg him.


----------



## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

So just an update, I have found this part is actually a component of the 'noise generator' system on this engine. I didn't think it had one ! I was aware on later models there is an electronic sounder in the scuttle that is a 'noise generator', but this is a mechanical feedback system.

It is not possible to fit the brace with the part in place, so an option is to fit a blanking plate - but you will loose this noise feedback.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

hmm that's a funny place to put it because on the VR6 the soundpipe is bolted on underneath the scuttle tray panel and so no where near where the brace would fit...

3.2 8J Soundpipe retrofit


----------



## lukeyboi89 (Jun 12, 2011)

nick2000 said:


> So just an update, I have found this part is actually a component of the 'noise generator' system on this engine. I didn't think it had one ! I was aware on later models there is an electronic sounder in the scuttle that is a 'noise generator', but this is a mechanical feedback system.
> 
> It is not possible to fit the brace with the part in place, so an option is to fit a blanking plate - but you will loose this noise feedback.


hi, is that only for dsg tts do you know?

i have just purchased an ultra brace for my manual one, and didnt think they have the noise generator.

assuming removing it wont cause any adverse effects?


----------



## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

lukeyboi89 said:


> nick2000 said:
> 
> 
> > So just an update, I have found this part is actually a component of the 'noise generator' system on this engine. I didn't think it had one ! I was aware on later models there is an electronic sounder in the scuttle that is a 'noise generator', but this is a mechanical feedback system.
> ...


Hi, I suspect its more the engine code than manual / auto - but I'm guessing. You can check on your car if you open the bonnet and look behind the engine on the firewall - if you see a hose attached / going into the firewall / scuttle - then you have it, if not - happy days !

Removing it causes no adverse effects except for loosing the noise. ( which is possibly a benefit  )


----------



## lukeyboi89 (Jun 12, 2011)

Flashy said:


> I'll leave the bolts but coat the bodywork and brace contact area. The bolts are oem, so I would imagine are galvanized zinc. Already fitted but I'll remove it to treat it. Got a few spare brand new mount bolts.


Hi Flashy,

to clarify did you have to use longer bolts when installing the strut bar to accommodate the extra thickness?

if so which ones did you get as i have one waiting to go on.

EDIT - also did you bother with the acf50 or anything else between the brace and the body of the car?

cheers


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I bought some new VAG bolts, used the same size as they seem plenty long enough. Used a bit of ACF 50on the threads, plus I wrapped the brace faces that touch the car in white electrical tape. A bit overkill but I'm happy.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

To those who have fitted one, what was the outcome with preventing corrosion between steel and aluminium? I have a brace now which I will be fitting soon and and interested to know

Also, are the standard bolts long enough to include the extra thickness of the brace?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I have it fitted with standard bolts (bought two sets as got fed up with waiting for Bilstein to sort themselves out). I have had no issues and have put a film over the base plate on the bar of the above mentioned sealant and before finally clamping down on bolts added into the bolt hole gap as I wanted to get as little on the threads when torquing up. 
So far so good and if bilstein had delivered by now would have had it taken of and refitted again as long as no issues had developed and presented themselves.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That would be the ACF 50 Nidana?

Thanks for the info

Out of interest what do you mean by Bilstein bolts? Are they a different size?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Sorry my bad should have made it a bit clearer. I'm waiting on B8 shocks to arrive that it's now a running joke. I had intended to hold out until they arrived and get it all done in one along with fresh alignment. 
Instead I got fed up of waiting and went and fitted the bar also found out today the shocks are delayed yet again by 7 days and only been trying to have them since October 2020. If they don't turn up after this I'm wanting my money back and just fitting the springs on existing shocks with new hardware as I have had enough but it's why I bought two sets of mounting bolts.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Uh oh, I ordered the B12 kit last week which includes the B8s along with Eibach springs. Was hoping to have them fitted by early August..!


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Eek sorry to have possibly been bearer of bad news. You may have better luck than me although I had contacted UK HQ and just got a generic tough luck email with very little sympathy or apologies. Only info they gave me was HQ will have the stock before it's moved on to distributors so won't help at all. Yesterday was the best it looked in a while with 2 days to go then this morning it was 7 days. Although 7 days is an improvement over 30 days don't think I can put up with another delay now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ah that's annoying but thanks for the warning. I was told 4-6 weeks when I ordered

Is this across the board or specifically the TT kits?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I think it's across the board on most things presently now hoping it improves sooner than getting worse. Seemingly tyres suffered this but after watching a fitment industries YouTube video they explained it a little as tyre manufacturers can source materials from multiple sources shock manufacturers are pretty much sourcing from same limited suppliers.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I have some positive news to share with you MT my shocks I have been waiting forever for are arriving tomorrow. So you may have yours fitted by August as planned. I had put it down to flipping a coin on if to cancel or not today but have just received my tracking email.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good news! I have my fingers crossed


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I can give you a slight update relating to your original question. Long story short thought I'd start swapping over to b12 kit but ended up spending my time needing to cut out my droplinks so new drop links fitted and just going to wait til I'm off next week to fit the kit.

Main reason for replying is I took a look at the bolts from the underside on the top mounts in relation to the strut brace. I can tell you that you see 1 ½ sections of thread coming through the bottom of the mount at the strut brace locations as opposed to 4-5 sections otherwise. So they are fully engaged going on my visual inspection and something positive at least happened tonight.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That's good to know, thanks. I hope you have better luck when installing the rest!


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

All fitted MT-V6 with exception on rear shocks that I'm getting local garage to fit as drivers side shock to hub bolt would not move. That's this Monday so will let it settle and get it aligned at end of next week. 
I can tell you it feels better for sure on the front end and ride height seems to be what I would call perfect not crazy low.

I have a drop of 10-15 mm presently but it's all new mounts so it might drop a little more yet if not I'm actually happy enough with that if I'm honest.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

I got the b12 on mine had them on for about 18months I really like them and corners are more fun but the mrs thinks they are too harsh and to be fair they can be but its not my daily.so all good


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Sounds good, it will probably settle a little lower in the days to come. I'm not too interested in lowering it too much anyway, I am just wanting to improve the handling as tight corners are the definite weak point when on track. Adding spacers might help with the 'stance' too and give the appearance of a lower suspension

Interesting that the back was the issue, most the posts I see tend to be replaced to the front lower strut clamp, so I assume you got that off? A spreader socket and big hammer?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Big hammer definitely required it's been the drivers side that's been the worse to remove in my case front and back. Front drivers side shock didn't want to come out which is the opposite to what I expected. I thought it would have been the passenger side being the worst to remove considering more often than not more prone to edge of road puddles compared to drivers side. 
My worry was shearing the rear bolt in the end and decided letting a garage deal with it would be better. 
Early days but once settled and alignment done I'm confident I will be happy with it drop and handling wise. I'm not a track user just a B road basher when roads a clear so coilovers would be overkill on someone like me. 
Now considering repainting callipers to match up with the shocks but for now just want to enjoy it dos a couple of months having waited an eternity for them to arrive.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I agree with you there, I would expect the passenger side to be worse too. Interestingly when I swapped my side skirts, a lot more mud and dirt was lodged behind the driver's side too. I wonder if the progress etc keep the passenger side cleaner?

I might see if the rear bottom bolt is visible with the car on the road, so I can start spraying penetrating oil on it every now and then


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Btw what parts came with the kit for the rear? Does it include new bump stops and damper plastic gaurds?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

My shocks didn't come with any extras i had already bought them in whilst waiting. It maybe because I bought the shocks separately as already had the springs waiting to go on. 
The lower bolt is accessible to spray up from rear as I had been doing the same with some trusty plus gas.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Just updated the title :wink:


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Flashy said:


> Just updated the title :wink:


I do apologise Flashy i took it onto another tangent.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I think I'll give it a spray then

What springs did you go for? I need to prepare a list of all the bits I want to replace at the same time, eg top mounts, bolts, spring seats. Might as well freshen it all up while it's apart

Sorry for the thread hijack Flashy


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Haha, no worries. Just a good reference for future searches.


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> I think I'll give it a spray then
> 
> What springs did you go for? I need to prepare a list of all the bits I want to replace at the same time, eg top mounts, bolts, spring seats. Might as well freshen it all up while it's apart
> 
> Sorry for the thread hijack Flashy


The reason why your suspension and brake rotor are rusting is because of the copper grease. It's attacking the zinc coating and causing galvanic corrosion. It is also transfering a lot of heat from the caliper. Use Ceramic Grease on your brake. Mk2 TT don't having rusting and corrosion issue. The only place I can see rust on mine is on the exhaust pipe and at the brake rotor where brake pad makes contact. No rust at side of the rotor and Hub where wheels makes contact.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'm confused by that reply, think you quoted the wrong post?


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> I'm confused by that reply, think you quoted the wrong post?


Correct me if I'm wrong, your using copper grease or anti seized? Your have rusting issue on the brake rotor, knuckle, hub assembly and driveshaft?


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> I think I'll give it a spray then
> 
> What springs did you go for? I need to prepare a list of all the bits I want to replace at the same time, eg top mounts, bolts, spring seats. Might as well freshen it all up while it's apart
> 
> Sorry for the thread hijack Flashy


Sorry for late reply I have Eibach springs on it and aesthetically it looks almost stock. Ride is firm so far but it's all new mounts. I had bought drop links as a precaution which in glad I did as ended up needing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm confused by that reply, think you quoted the wrong post?
> ...


Think you might have me mixed up, I've not commented anywhere about rust


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

I saw your comment from other thread about the rusty rotor and also saw that you used copper anti-seized on the driveshaft spline.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Sorry, but I don't understand how any of those parts relate to this thread. The comment being made was about the rear lower damper bolt


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I've updated the thread title, again :lol:


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Haha oh dear!


----------

