# Corrosion - How big an issue?



## redbrainteaser (Dec 11, 2019)

I have just started looking for a TT and viewed 3 so far. All had corrosion on roof rails and two had bubbling around wheel arches. Yesterday I walked past a 1999 silver TT with really bad corrosion, large 70cm2 area of rust on sills and all wheel arches bubbling badly.

One of the attractions I have always had to a TT is they always look so good (albeit from a distance) and I was led to believe this was becuase the panels were galvanised. But my early viewings appear to be contradicting my first thoughts.

A few questions.


How big an issue is corrosion in general?

If I am seeing corrosion on the body panels, what is likely to be happening underneath where the elements generally take their toll?

Is structural corrosion an issue and is there anywhere I need to focus on looking at?

BTW I do accept they are knocking on a bit and some degree of corrosion may be expected.


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Roof rails are aluminum & corrosion on them has been a problem since the very beginning. Just cosmetic.
Body panels are galvanised & any corrosion is normally because of repairs or neglect.
Sills are not structural & can be replaced. 
Front subframe can rust from the top & is hidden from normal access.
Suspension arm etc rust very quickly & can look really bad but is usually just surface.
I've had mine from new & have waxoyled mine so still look new.
Hoggy.  
.


----------



## cold steel (Dec 9, 2013)

I'm also looking and have found the same issues.

The sills are just a cover and are quite easy to remove and restore/replace it seems . There's a couple of good videos on the subject online.

I've now looked at over 10 cars, all with bodywork issues, and some at premium prices. I've concluded that the mint mk1 doesn't exist, and beware one with evidence of recent quick bodywork repairs or blow over resprays. I'll have to now consider an honest car with non hidden bodywork issues and repair the work myself so know it has been done properly.

Like myself, keep looking.


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

cold steel said:


> I've concluded that the mint mk1 doesn't exist,


Hi, They do, but not normally for sale  
Hoggy


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

cold steel said:


> I'm also looking and have found the same issues.
> 
> The sills are just a cover and are quite easy to remove and restore/replace it seems . There's a couple of good videos on the subject online.
> 
> ...


Mint TT's do exist but are most probably beyond what you are willing to spend, you maybe better off lowering your expectations and budget, buy a car and then bring it up to your standards, and to answer the op's question how much corrosion a car will have can depend on it's location and care or lack of that it has had.


----------



## cold steel (Dec 9, 2013)

Hoggy said:


> cold steel said:
> 
> 
> > I've concluded that the mint mk1 doesn't exist,
> ...


Indeed 8)


----------



## cold steel (Dec 9, 2013)

Delta4 said:


> cold steel said:
> 
> 
> > I'm also looking and have found the same issues.
> ...


That's my new plan


----------



## John949 (Apr 12, 2017)

I would always buy the best I could afford rather than trying to restore a rough one - it always works out cheaper in the long run. That is of course assuming you are planning to keep it for some time, otherwise buy a cheap one, enjoy it, and move on.
I may get lynched for saying it on this board but if you are looking at top end Mk1s then do consider an older Mk 2. Being newer it is highly llikely to have fewer issues and it's hard to argue that it isn't an improvement over the Mk 1.


----------



## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Buy a v5 roadster which needs a respray.
Least then it is how you want it afterwards.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Corrosion in UK cars is just mental compared to eg. me where I'm in Greece.

Still my TT now has some signs of underbody corrosion starting to set in places, like suspension parts eg rear subframe. My last years ski trips probably helped that little surface rust.

How best to have it treated? We don't have waxoyl in Greece so any alternatives are welcome. What about this?









I would guess course of action would be to have the underbody pressure heat washed, use some rust converter on the affected areas and then coat the whole underbody with a protectant. How many liters would be needed for the whole TT underbody?


----------



## redbrainteaser (Dec 11, 2019)

John949 said:


> I may get lynched for saying it on this board but if you are looking at top end Mk1s then do consider an older Mk 2. Being newer it is highly llikely to have fewer issues and it's hard to argue that it isn't an improvement over the Mk 1.


I like the look of the mk2 but I have a strong displike for direct injection stratified charge engines and I think all the petrols are TFSI engined. Great when they are working but can turn into a money pit if they go wrong.


----------



## redbrainteaser (Dec 11, 2019)

silkman said:


> How best to have it treated? We don't have waxoyl in Greece so any alternatives are welcome.


I have always used and swear by Bilt Hamber products, they do a whole range of products, my summer car is a 14 year old Z4 treated with BH and it is mint.


----------



## redbrainteaser (Dec 11, 2019)

cold steel said:


> I've concluded that the mint mk1 doesn't exist, and beware one with evidence of recent quick bodywork repairs or blow over resprays. I'll have to now consider an honest car with non hidden bodywork issues and repair the work myself so know it has been done properly.


I am with you all the way, I always prefer a car in original condition even if tatty and work on it myself. If i detect a respray, I generally stay clear unless I can be absolutley sure I know the reason why, how well the job has been done and if there is anything else that is being covered up.


----------



## DickyP (Sep 18, 2014)

The TT does suffer with some general VAG design flaws which has led to corrosion, MK5 golfs for instance have the same issue regarding wing corrosion due to position of sound deadening which basically acted as a sponge and scratched away at the inside of the wing.

Front wings tend to start at the 12 o'clock position where a tang is welded to bolt the inner stone guard. Regarding sills as they are cosmetic again crud can build between the structural sill and the A face sill and again with moisture, grit and basically a bit of movement they start to rust through. Again these parts are bolt on so as body work goes these are easy fixes.

As ever factor into your pricing but I wouldn't discount straight off.


----------



## TT Grant (Apr 24, 2018)

My 2001 coupe has spotless body work & sills & is in the UK - West Midlands... & I paid peanuts for mine 2 years ago.

Keep looking, they are about... but make sure you stay picky & don't buy a bucket.

If you find a TT that has bubbly front wings or doors or sills, remember these are very easy to swap out & replace & there are lots breaking so you will usually find the right paint coded parts in no time.. cheap too !.

If the rear arches or front of roof etc are bubbling - avoid like the plague - these repairs will be endless & cost you loads to stay on top of.

I got lucky, as mine had & excellent engine & gear-box, great body work, but was just looking very shoddy & tired. I spent a bit of time re-fitting all the panels, & a ton of preventative maintenance + the usual belts, sump, & electrical stuff etc & now have a car that I'm proud to own....

Admittedly she has cost me about £3500, but for the equivalent performance, interior quality & plain driving fun, I would probably have to spend many times that. 
The TT Mk1's also have lots of character, much like a 1970's Beetle or a Vespa.... but the TT will go like the wind & put a smile on your face..... even at 30mph on a country lane.

regards & best wishes to all for 2020.
Grant B


----------



## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

silkman said:


> Corrosion in UK cars is just mental compared to eg. me where I'm in Greece.
> 
> Still my TT now has some signs of underbody corrosion starting to set in places, like suspension parts eg rear subframe. My last years ski trips probably helped that little surface rust.
> 
> ...


ACF 50 is superb stuff, I use it at work on our aircraft, though i would doubt it would hold up on the underside, it actually eats corrosion and lifts it off the surface.

what about?

https://products.liqui-moly.com/adhesives-sealants.html


----------



## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

redbrainteaser said:


> silkman said:
> 
> 
> > How best to have it treated? We don't have waxoyl in Greece so any alternatives are welcome.
> ...


Bilt Hamber gets my vote, they sell a load of products for the treatment and prevention of corrosion. "Dynax UC" is a clear spray on wax that i would recommend.

Cheers


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Great! thanks for the replies


----------



## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

silkman said:


> How best to have it treated? We don't have waxoyl in Greece so any alternatives are welcome.


Do you have POR-15 available in Greece? They do a whole line of rust repair/preventive products that I've had good experiences with working as advertised. Just hit their site while typing, and it looks like a distributor for the EU in Germany:

https://www.por15.com/International-Sales


----------



## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

torqueit said:


> silkman said:
> 
> 
> > How best to have it treated? We don't have waxoyl in Greece so any alternatives are welcome.
> ...


Another vote for the POR-15 range


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Thanks all for the replies.

Unfortunately no POR15 in Greece and none of the online sources ship chemicals over the internet at least to Greece (a friend in Cyprus tells me that Amazon wont ship anything there that has a battery). The autodoc site which regularly I have bought engine oil from wont ship it. :roll:

What I could find locally is some Permatex stuff and also some Wurth stuff which are all quite expensive and in small bottles. Search continues...


----------



## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

Bummer on the POR-15. I was hopeful when I saw the German contact info. I'd have thought they could ship it on a ground service with cost being the only factor.


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

I have the underside of my 2003 3.2 checked and, if necessary, waxolyed at the time of each MOT now - I do have what appears to be rust spots along the bottom of the doors appearing though? It's never been in an accident/had damage so why would that suddenly start appearing? It's looked after and "only" has 79K miles on it.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

RobLE said:


> I have the underside of my 2003 3.2 checked and, if necessary, waxolyed at the time of each MOT now - I do have what appears to be rust spots along the bottom of the doors appearing though? It's never been in an accident/had damage so why would that suddenly start appearing? It's looked after and "only" has 79K miles on it.


Treat them with something (rust converter?) even if that means having the door bottoms different colour. Maybe the drains are clogged?


----------



## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

RobLE said:


> I have the underside of my 2003 3.2 checked and, if necessary, waxolyed at the time of each MOT now - I do have what appears to be rust spots along the bottom of the doors appearing though? It's never been in an accident/had damage so why would that suddenly start appearing? It's looked after and "only" has 79K miles on it.


Are they rusting from the inside out? How is the window seal?


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

torqueit said:


> RobLE said:
> 
> 
> > I have the underside of my 2003 3.2 checked and, if necessary, waxolyed at the time of each MOT now - I do have what appears to be rust spots along the bottom of the doors appearing though? It's never been in an accident/had damage so why would that suddenly start appearing? It's looked after and "only" has 79K miles on it.
> ...


Not sure - just noticed the small spots. How do you mean with reference to the seal? Never noticed an issue...but would I? :?


----------

