# Finally bagged myself a 225



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Morning all,

After selling my old 180 and bouncing around a few other cars, including several other 1.8t, I have finally found myself a 225!

This was always the plan, I just never expected it to take this long. I even stopped looking for a while.

So here it is, a silver 2001 225 coupé. 130k miles, decent bodywork (but not mint) and an decent service history, most importantly a cam belt/water pump/chain tensioner/chain renewal about 5k miles ago.

It has a few niggles like temp gauge not working (but ok on the climate code) fuel gauge not working (but ok on the distance to empty) and a few pixels missing but seems to be a nice tight and lively drive.

Very pleased for my £1550 and Glad to be back.

Malty


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

maltloaf said:


> Very pleased for my £1550 and Glad to be back.
> 
> Malty


That's a hell of a deal. Congrats.


----------



## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Enjoy (and then update your sig)


----------



## Ozzytheblackcat (Feb 21, 2016)

Nice car mate. Got my first tt 225 in Feb and still smiling.


----------



## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

8) good price


----------



## espressomac (May 17, 2015)

Great deal! Congrats and enjoy!

Your temp and fuel gauges don't work at all or are they just not indicating correctly, as if miscalibrated?


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

espressomac said:


> Great deal! Congrats and enjoy!
> 
> Your temp and fuel gauges don't work at all or are they just not indicating correctly, as if miscalibrated?


They move, they just don't display true values. The temp gauge displays around 90 when the engine is stone cold and goes up from there.

Similarly, the fuel gauge seems to display half when the tank is empty.

Thanks everyone, I can't wait to get into the little jobs that need doing.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Right, here's my initial jobs list but without looking massively deeply, there doesn't seem to be a lot desperate to do.

Climate control on/off switch is missing the round outer cover of the switch itself - must be able to get these on eBay or breaker ?

Driver's door micro switch is faulty, window doesn't drop and interior light doesn't come on.

The window switch on the driver's side won't put the passenger window up. The passenger side window switch operates it fine so must just be the switch.

Need a spare key, especially because of the above - the door never knows it's been opened and re-locks the car - I got one cut and coded it myself for my last TT so this shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Radio flap won't stay closed - Doesn't bother me too much but would be nice to close it.

Fuel gauge and temp gauge repair - Can't decide wether to send the whole pod off or have a go at changing the motors myself.

That's all I've found so far - it's definitely in a MUCH nicer condition than my old one was.

Cheers,

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got a couple of jobs done today, read off my cluster eeprom (in the ecu), extracted the SKC and coded a new spare key & transponder chip which my local Timpsons cut to my original. Much happier now having a spare key sat in the drawer at home !

Also, managed to read off the stock map from the ECU yesterday so had a play last night sat on the sofa and knocked up a quick stage 1 map (I'm an avid student of nefmoto forum), flashed it back this morning and very happy with the initial results from that - estimating from MAF readings, I've picked up about 40BHP and 80 lb/ft of torque, boost showing a very respectable 1.6 bar. Nice increase for a quick poke but I'd better get some logs done so that I don't melt/bend anything... ;-)

cheers,

malty


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

maltloaf said:


> Got a couple of jobs done today, read off my cluster eeprom (in the ecu), extracted the SKC and coded a new spare key & transponder chip which my local Timpsons cut to my original. Much happier now having a spare key sat in the drawer at home !
> 
> Also, managed to read off the stock map from the ECU yesterday so had a play last night sat on the sofa and knocked up a quick stage 1 map (I'm an avid student of nefmoto forum), flashed it back this morning and very happy with the initial results from that - estimating from MAF readings, I've picked up about 40BHP and 80 lb/ft of torque, boost showing a very respectable 1.6 bar. Nice increase for a quick poke but I'd better get some logs done so that I don't melt/bend anything... ;-)
> 
> ...


You didn't manage to do that based of the guide I posted a few days earlier did you?


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Sorry, which guide ? No I haven't either way. I'd be interested in taking a look whatever it is though ? I love learning.

**edit, just looked at your post, there's an easier way to extract skc.

You use argdub's program to save the eprom from your ecu.

command line is

me7_95040 --OBD -r -p 3 tt225eeprom.bin (my vcp was on com 3 but yours may be different)

then use turboat's eeprom tool to read the skc

command line is

95040tool.exe --in tt225eeprom.bin

and this gave me this output....

EEPROM Status:
- VIN: TRUZZZ8N6xxxxxxxx (Audi Hungary 2002 - TT 99-06, Gyor, Hungary)
- SKC: 05571
- Immobiliser: On
- Checksum: Invalid Checksum
- Size: 512bytes
- Cluster Code: 11 3B 3C 59 79 97
- P0601 DTC: not set
- Immo ID: UZ5Z0AN220137

I then used vcds on the cluster module to code my keys, with the above skc and this video






cheers,

malty


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

maltloaf said:


> Sorry, which guide ? No I haven't either way. I'd be interested in taking a look whatever it is though ? I love learning.
> 
> **edit, just looked at your post, there's an easier way to extract skc.
> 
> ...


Oh aha, look at you! Glad to see someone else who's aware of the eeprom extraction method. Good for you! I'm glad it worked out for you man, love to see people explore and try new methods :mrgreen:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I'm a big forum guy myself, I'm actually an admin on a fairly big tech forum and firmly believe knowledge is best shared.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I have picked myself up a couple of the small needle motors to drive the Fuel and Temperature gauges. Seems to be worth a gamble at £20 each rather than sending off the cluster for £150. Hoping they will arrive sooner rather than later !


----------



## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

Looks nice ,sell me the wheels :roll:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

blz-8027 said:


> Looks nice ,sell me the wheels :roll:


You wouldn't want them, they are a bit battered.

I do however have very similar wheels on my A4, and they are in very good condition ;-)

I can't decide which wheels to keep on which car.

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I think I may have a stuck open thermostat. I checked on 49c this morning and it took ages to rise to anything above 80 then only when left idling did it reach 90/91. When back driving it fell back down again to the 80-85 range.

Can anyone confirm my suspicions ?

cheers,

malty


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

maltloaf said:


> I think I may have a stuck open thermostat. I checked on 49c this morning and it took ages to rise to anything above 80 then only when left idling did it reach 90/91. When back driving it fell back down again to the 80-85 range.
> 
> Can anyone confirm my suspicions ?
> 
> ...


Hi, Confirmed in your other post.
Hoggy.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got it thanks, another job on the list ;-)


----------



## M3 Kev (Mar 18, 2016)

Think you got a bargain there!


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got my thermostat done this morning, temp now happily sitting at 90 and not dropping below.

Also the new fuel gauge and temp gauge motors turned up so I got them fitted.

Stripped the dash pod out, thought that would take longer than it did, stripped it down

Pulled the old ones out, they are just a push fit into 3 prong plugs with tiny little clips either side, both of which broke off on the old needle motors.

New ones went in fine then I reconnected the dash to the car and ran a vcds instrument cluster output test which sits the needles at half way so you can push them on in the right position. A couple of pics are below for posterity 

Very happy to have functional temp and fuel gauges

Cheers

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Another job to add to the list, seems like my fuel tank level sender is faulty. I brimmed the tank off this evening with some Tesco Momentum 99 and expected my nice new gauge to zip right to the top, however it didn't and neither did the distance to empty, They both sort of crept up really slowly, ended up reading about 2/3.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Fuel sender mysteriously started working last night, dte and gauge both reading loads of miles/full and I brimmed the tank about 5 miles ago so it's correct - will monitor and see what happens.

Going to tackle the door micro switch next as I'm paranoid about locking the keys inside (although I do now have a spare stored in the house). I found a supplier on eBay that look like they are reselling Chinese copies of the genuine switches as I've seen the same photos on a Chinese site.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252072646256

I might strip it down this morning and see if there's any way of repairing it as per the strip of plastic method in the how-to, or see if I can get anything from Maplin to fit.

Cheers,

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Another pic, just because I have it ;-)


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I think I have another job. I keep getting up an o2 sensor fault, o2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 1. I cleared it a couple of times and it always comes back after a few days. I'm fairly confident it's the pre cat one and it might explain the slight chokey feeling I get on overrun, when I lift off the throttle.

I think I'll get it replaced. Part number seems to be 06A906262BE. I have bought a lambda sensor socket as I think it will help and I'll hopefully get the sensor over the next couple of days..

Oh, I also ordered the door microswitch this morning.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Another job for the list, the +ve battery terminal won't do up tight enough. I can pull it off even if I do it up as tight as I dare. It might explain the stereo losing it's power now and then and needing the code to be input. Have ordered a replacement battery to starter cable from ebay.

Next on the list is to check and replace all the vacuum pipes and buy a decent tip and boost pipework. Next after that is 550cc injectors I think...


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got my gauge all plumbed in last night, vac tubing wise. It's sat in the vent in one of Nick's vent adaptors but I still need to stick the silver ring back on. Also need to get crimps and cable and cable up the light.

Also didn't have much time in the fading light but attempted the door microswitch renewal, got the door card off easily but couldn't free the latch from the external barrel mech. It needs a T20 driver but mine with it's bit holder is too fat to go through the hole in the door skin so I will have to buy or borrow a proper driver and reattempt.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Boost gauge is now in, nice seeing real and immediate measurements rather than the delayed readouts I get from the dash command app.

I'm seeing 1.5 bar peak boost which settles down to 1.1ish. It's about 0.2-0.3 bar below what I would expect so I either have a small leak somewhere in the vac system (haven't had a chance to inspect all the breathers etc of the PCV system yet (in all other 1.8t I've owned they have been degraded and split) OR it's being held back by the intake.

I already have a S2000 air filter on the maf (a favourite of mine) so I'm going to pick up a badger 5 TIP by the weekend. Luckily Badger5 is only based about 10 miles from my house !

Also I have ordered a set of 550cc injectors from the USA as they work out £110 cheaper than anywhere in the UK. Many people say bigger injectors aren't needed unless you go BT but I heard the same about my golf and upgrading the injectors in that made a HUGE difference (obviously mapping to suit).

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Hope you guys don't mind my one man thread. The missus picked up my new TIP from Badger5 this afternoon and I installed it after work tonight. Wow there's a ton of room down there compared to my Golf ! The TIP in that was a real fight to get in because of a water pipe completely in the way ! A pretty simple job in the TT.

Bill seems to be reselling Forge tips (for less money !)

The one he's supplied to me is exactly the same part as http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Silico ... --136.html

and has the Silicone Hoses logo etc on it. Bill is selling the same part for £129 inc vat. The exact same hose from Forge (which are also near here) is £169 !

Looks good, fitted well.

I span and pulled the turbo impellor whilst I had the tip off and I could feel a tiny bit of in and out movement but nothing laterally and the bearings felt good. Is a very slight lateral movement normal ?

I'm wondering if the turbo has been changed at some point because the clip holding the oem tip on was a screw clip not one of the single use clips. Most of the other hardware around there seems like OEM including the diverter valve as it has the audi clip on it. It does look like the breather pipework has all been renewed though.

cheers,

malty


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

hey!

just read one of your replied on key coding and then read your signature to see you'd done a DIY stage 1.

care to discuss? as in what values you tweaked (i.e. KFMIRL, LDRXN etc etc). Would like to see if i'm on the right track (i don't have the ability to PM yet.... whaaaaa)


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Absolutely. If you're not on nefmoto forum I would highly recommend getting registered over there. I'm still very much a noob at it but am happy to help where I can. I can stage one a stock file and code in bigger injectors, MAF etc and on my golf I coded out secondary air, evap.

If you search for my name over there you will see some of my learning threads.

Feel free to make a new post in here and I'll jump in with the little I know.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

awesome!!!

i will get in touch there 

yeah so i've learnt heaps since jumping on there. i only really wanted to get SKC info (which was easy enough)... nekminit i had an emergency cluster swap to do.

VCDS (full version of the cable)

wasn't adapting cluster or keys!!!! SO... nefmoto

and now i know how to flash the cluster to match ECU and enable key matching to work. thought i was going to have to fork out thousands to 1 - tow the car to audi and 2 - get them to fix things for me.

but nope! thanks to playing around with "the matrix" it's all doable by DIY!!!


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Replaced my door microswitch this morning. Got the door card off easy peasy (again) and managed to withdraw the lock barrel as I found a T20 which would go through the hole in the door.

I did have a bit of a fight on my hands getting the horseshoe clip thing off which operates the door latch from the outside.

Once out I slid the little spring clip off and clipped my new microswitch in (£11 delivered off ebay). crimped it all up to the existing wires using the crimps supplied with it and reassembled to the door. Had another fight getting the horseshoe clip back into it's lever as it needs to be all the way in to rotate freely but it went eventually. Plugged the harness cable up and the window instantly dropped. Happy days ;-)

All good. Pre cat o2 sensor next I think.

cheers,

malty


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

all i can say is have fun cracking the sensor loose! LOL

that's literally all you need to do but bloody hell it's tight so probs get WD on it the night before and then again before you give it a crack - once cracked it's just inch by inch spanner movements to get it off


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Yea I'm expecting it to be tight. I've bought an o2 sensor socket which has a cutout for the cable and I think I can get onto it from the top with extension bars and I have a big breaker bar, but I'll know more when I've actually bought the sensor and taken the charge pipe/brackets off.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

if you figure out a way to get your extensions and the breaker bar to work... please let me know


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

maltloaf said:


> Replaced my door microswitch this morning. Got the door card off easy peasy (again) and managed to withdraw the lock barrel as I found a T20 which would go through the hole in the door.
> 
> I did have a bit of a fight on my hands getting the horseshoe clip thing off which operates the door latch from the outside.
> 
> ...


Malty

Impressed with the speed you are getting your mods/repairs done. My drivers door microswitch has been nadged since I got the car 20 odd months ago. If I get a replacement microswitch could you give us a hand fitting it? 
Am in Ciren, so can come over to Gloucester no problem.

Cheers

Andy


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Absolutely mate, happy to help and as with everything the second is always quicker. I'd recommend the guy I got mine from which I think I linked to earlier in the thread. Not the cheapest but it came really quickly and has worked perfectly.


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Many thanks

Will get it ordered now  I'll PM you once it's arrived to sort something out.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got my o2 sensor replaced today,

Charge pipe removed, bracket removed, got in there fine with my o2 sensor / diesel injector socket from Amazon, a small 3/4 to 1/2" adaptor and my breaker bar. No messing  cracked it off easily and wound it out by hand. Had more of a job getting the threads straight on the new one. For anyone looking, gsf do a genuine Bosch one with the right connector for £95

Gsf stock number is 93VG1110

Found the source of my problems in the process, the connector was all melted and the wires bare/touching

Pics attached

Cheers

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Cabled up the backlight for the boost gauge tonight, from the switched live busbar. Easy job but another ticked off the list.

My injectors, which were ordered from the states, have already reached the international centre over there. Wouldn't surprise me if they don't land in the uk tomorrow or monday. Already begun writing the map for them and looking at the fuel rail and injector harness, looks like a simple job to swap the over.

I have noticed however that one of the seats looks a tiny bit leaky so I might renew them too. Does anyone know where I can get them ?

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Seems my cigarette lighter socket doesn't work - a fuse perhaps but haven't looked yet. Everything else in the area seems to be working however...

I also have a question, were headlamp washers fitted to all 225 ? as mine doesn't have them.

It does seem to have HID/xenon (I don't know what the difference is!) so I presume due to the lack of washers, that these have been fitted by a previous owner. Would that be a correct assumption ?

cheers,

malty


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

See I never used the proper oxy sensor socket. Hahaha must make it heaps easier! Well done.

Ps. Working your boost lighting to that switched live - will it fade with the dash fader? Or no? Mine is currently on headlamp fuse but thinking I want it on with the dash when the car is on & dimmable

Ps. Check. You nefmoto inbox 



maltloaf said:


> Got my o2 sensor replaced today,
> 
> Charge pipe removed, bracket removed, got in there fine with my o2 sensor / diesel injector socket from Amazon, a small 3/4 to 1/2" adaptor and my breaker bar. No messing  cracked it off easily and wound it out by hand. Had more of a job getting the threads straight on the new one. For anyone looking, gsf do a genuine Bosch one with the right connector for £95
> 
> ...


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Maltloaf, All 225s had xenon as standard, so washers should be fitted.
Hoggy.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Maltloaf, All 225s had xenon as standard, so washers should be fitted.
> Hoggy.


Thanks mate, I'm very confused now.

as you can see in this post...

viewtopic.php?p=6918257#p6918257

I have no washers fitted...

any ideas ?

cheers,

malty


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Maltloaf,, Probably had a front end crash & bumper replaced from a lesser BHP TT.
Check under passenger side wheel arch cover, are there 2 pumps on the washer water container.
Hoggy.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Maltloaf,, Probably had a front end crash & bumper replaced from a lesser BHP TT.
> Check under passenger side wheel arch cover, are there 2 pumps on the washer water container.
> Hoggy.


I had half wondered that myself. I will look after work thanks for the tip.

Isn't xenons with no washers an MOT fail or is it like a fog light, they have to work only if they are fitted ?


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

maltloaf said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Maltloaf,, Probably had a front end crash & bumper replaced from a lesser BHP TT.
> ...


Hi, At the moment if fitted they must work, but rumours are that in the future, if they were original spec they must be fitted, much the same as rules have changed for cat converters.
Hoggy.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Finally got round to doing a vcds scan this morning.

Came up with a few faults,

A/C pressure switch F129 which returned as soon as cleared so I'll get one ordered and installed as I do like a/c to work.

I did the scan because I am beginning to suspect something is up with the haldex system. If I floor it in 2nd and sometimes 3rd I get a fair amount of flashing of the traction control light as if it's fighting for grip. Much more than I would expect from a 4wd car. The haldex controller did show a couple of faults but they both cleared and stayed cleared. Might get the unit off and inspect it anyway...


----------



## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

Just remember its not full time four wheel drive its only on when the front tyres slip and then the backs will kick in, you don't need to floor it to test it, the best way is on wet grass as the traction is low and the fronts slipp dead easy, if you hang out the door when you do it and watch the rear tyres then you should see them kick in as you start off so wait for a wet morning and out you go lad!

Stevie


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Yea it could be me being fussy it just seems to squirm a tiny bit when I would expect it to be sure footed. It's very slightand the tyres aren't the best also.

I did get one of the faults back which is regarding the haldex clutch so I'll do some investigating on that.

It was 01155 - Clutch - mechanical malfunction - intermittent.

If anyone knows what that might be ?

Was going to get the AC pressure switch off this afternoon but I presume it's behind the little heat shield behind the charge pipe and everything was roasting hot in that area so I'll do it another day.

Cheers

Malty


----------



## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

Top left of the engine there are two switches for the air con. High pressure switch with a four wire connector and a pressure sensor with a two wire connector. Have you definitely got plenty of gas in the system?

Stevie


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

outdoor stevie said:


> Top left of the engine there are two switches for the air con. High pressure switch with a four wire connector and a pressure sensor with a two wire connector. Have you definitely got plenty of gas in the system?
> 
> Stevie


I think, having done some reading, that earlier models have a pressure switch which has 4 wires and later models have a pressure sensor which has 3 wires and generates a duty square wave depending on pressure. Mine has the 3 pin one.

I have tonight removed my 3 pin pressure sensor and I'm hoping the same part is on my audi a4 so I can swap them over to eliminate (if I can get to it that is!) if not i'll just pick a new one up as they have them for £25 at ECP after discount.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

550cc Injectors arrived from the USA yesterday, got them installed in about half an hour. A really easy job on the BAM engine. Unclip the electrical connectors from the four injectors. Pull the vac tube off the FPR. Unclip the wire guide from the fuel rail and flip it towards you. Undo the two 5mm allen screws and pull the lot out. The fuel lines can stay connected and will flip way over onto the area where the expansion tank is.

Had a fair amount of residue from failed injector seals, especially on cylinder 1 so spent 5 minutes cleaning that up.

The injectors are just held in with a little spring clip which just pushes off. They all came out easily and the new ones in with their new seals. I didn't bother disconnecting or clamping the fuel lines or anything, just cranked the car with the fuel pump fuse pulled and put a few rags down in the area whilst I pulled each injector. I had maybe a teaspoon worth of petrol from each.

Pushed the whole lot back into the holes, did up the two bolts and reconnected the harness and FPR vac line.

Wrote and flashed a rudimentary map for them last night, scaling them in properly and it's driving fine but I need to revisit my notes as there are a couple of things I've forgotten how to do properly.

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Edited the map a bit more last night and flashed it this morning. It's going much faster with a much more immediate response so I'm on the right track. I have boost peaking at 1.8bar now and resting at about 1.4bar between 2.5k and 5k but it's tailing off a fair bit down to 1.1 ish after about 5k revs so something may be leaking at higher load.

Need to reset all the fuel trims and do some logging to check that nothing is near the limits but I think I'm a way off that, so I think I can push a bit further yet. If something breaks, it'll be an excuse to upgrade it and it's not my main car so I can live without it if I need to ;-)

It's not all good news, I have managed to break cold idle. The car was stone cold this morning and it constantly was hunting for idle/almost stalling. Not sure what I've done to cause that as I've only altered the fuelling constant, latency and load maps since yesterday, none of which should alter my cold idle (unless my fuelling is WAAAAY off) - but I'll find it.

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

My spark plugs (BKR7E) arrived on friday so i got them installed today.

Discovered to my horror that whoever had done the rocker gasket had used masses of sealant all the way around and on the plug hole gasket too.

it was everywhere. all spilling in lumps into the plug holes so i had to fish a load of loose sealant out before i could remove the old plugs.

anyway they came out fine. Quite expensive looking iridium wire things but they looked well overdue a change.

Also tweaked my map a bit more. seemed my fuelling was out a bit as its running better now that I increased it a little and I've finally got around to installing and setting up the logging software on my current machine so I can stop operating in the blind and actually start tuning properly.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got around to regassing my air con today, fans instantly kicked in as soon as some gas was put in so it's proved the fans, fan controller and pressure switch BUT the compressor clutch didn't engage so no cold air.

Fuse is ok (I think it's the same one as the run on pump) and that's working fine.

I'm now presuming something is wrong with the compressor itself, or the clutch mechanism.

As soon as I find my multimeter I'll see if there's a voltage on the condensor clutch connector and also try to jumper 12v straight into it to see if it engages.


----------



## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Looking back at your post you said the quattro might not be working so wondered if you have checked the earth strap that goes from the body to the L/H side of the diff?

They rot through and can give communication issues with the Haldex unit :roll:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

rusTTy_racer said:


> Looking back at your post you said the quattro might not be working so wondered if you have checked the earth strap that goes from the body to the L/H side of the diff?
> 
> They rot through and can give communication issues with the Haldex unit :roll:


Thanks for the tip although I don't think that's it. Comms to the controller seems to work fine so I presume the earth and the controller itself are OK. I think the clutch itself is faulty for whatever reason.

Cheers

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

OK it looks like my clutch has fallen off as per numerous threads.

I've stolen a pic from one of them as my compressor looks exactly the same, a thread and nothing else.

Does anyone know what kit I can buy to repair that ? I've had a look on eBay but there seem to be a few different ones.

Many thanks

Malty


----------



## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Not many people have bagged their 225's how does it handle? :roll: :lol:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

OK, having done some research tonight, my compressor is likely to be one of two types. A valeo one or a sanden one. I'm having trouble finding a clutch unit for either of them without spending £130 upwards. There are a few around for £60 but they look like they are for a splined shaft which I'm sure my compressor doesn't have.

Anyway, what can be bought cheaply is a whole used but certified good compressor, including the clutch unit, which run around £35 including delivery on ebay.

What I could do with knowing is if it's possible to remove the nut and clutch unit without pullers ? Has anyone done this ?

Many thanks,

malty


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You can get one of the splined shaft clutch kits for a little over £50 and widen the hole in the hub to fit your plain shaft. Then grind a flat on your shaft and make a half round key to lock the shaft to the clutch hub, which will need a half round groove. See here:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=846929&p=7030657#p7030657

The clutch hub will come off easily once you remove the locknut (provided they didn't also use stud lock etc) and the magnetic coil and pulley are held on with circlips.


----------



## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

It's far more straight forward to replace the unit as a whole, there are two types one with a blue label on and one with a green label on, get a torch and you should be able to see your existing label.
Very straight forward to replace, held in with two long bolts one of which you will need a deep socket for, two hoses held on with Allen nuts do not twist these as they have locating pins and two electrical connections, it will have been insitu for a while so lever it out firmly, they normally come as a whole unit if buying second hand clean up the bolt faces and install the new one, mark the fan belt so that it goes back on the same way or get a new one at the same time.
Unit from Audi approx £1000
Unit from ECP approc £350
Unit used from £35

If you get the full unit then you don't have to bother taking it to bits at all, as it should come complete ready to pop in.
You will need access from top and bottom

Cheers Stevie


----------



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

outdoor stevie said:


> It's far more straight forward to replace the unit as a whole, there are two types one with a blue label on and one with a green label on, get a torch and you should be able to see your existing label.
> Very straight forward to replace, held in with two long bolts one of which you will need a deep socket for, two hoses held on with Allen nuts do not twist these as they have locating pins and two electrical connections, it will have been insitu for a while so lever it out firmly, they normally come as a whole unit if buying second hand clean up the bolt faces and install the new one, mark the fan belt so that it goes back on the same way or get a new one at the same time.
> Unit from Audi approx £1000
> Unit from ECP approc £350
> ...


But he's just had it re-gased so that cost and hassle will need repeating if the compressor is changed.

If it was out of gas then I'd agree that a compressor change might be cheaper - if it works. I fixed the clutch on mine because I knew the compressor was fine.


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I don't mind changing the whole compressor out if that's going to be easier than putting a new clutch on, it just didn't look too bad if got the right clutch I was hoping it would bolt right on to the existing pulley. If that's unlikely I can swap the whole unit, I have a guy that can vac the system out before I do it and regas it afterwards.


----------



## stillchillin (Oct 29, 2009)

Wow only just read your thread from when you bought your car..well done on all the jobs you've done already ....think I need a lie down now :lol:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

I was intentionally between jobs for a while so I had loads of time to get into doing the little jobs here and there. Unfortunately I'm in my next job now so it all slows up a bit. The TT has been firmly relegated to spare/project car (which is what I always intended it to be) as I've just bought a 300BHP Audi S3 and at the moment it's my new toy and taking my attention. I longingly look at the TT every day though and will definitely carry on with the jobs needed, especially the air con as I would then be happy using her for my daily commute... Just need to find the time to examine/buy/swap the compressor over, and time is a valuable commodity with a missus who still likes me and a 2.5 year old running about...


----------



## Gone (May 5, 2009)

stillchillin said:


> Wow only just read your thread from when you bought your car..well done on all the jobs you've done already ....think I need a lie down now :lol:


+1 good effort on the repairs but can't help thinking £1500 for a TT with 130k on it and more or less everything broken doesn't seem like such a good deal, 5 pages in.

dashpod
haldex
air con
window switches
door switch
lambda sensor
vac pipes
thermostat
xenon washers bodge

Good luck with it, good to see one saved



ETA do something about those horrible wheels :wink:


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

There has been nothing wrong with the breather pipes, I've examined them all including the pcv/prv and found zero splits or other problems.

Everything else is just minor bits and bobs, nothing more than £100 so far plus a bit of my time - and since this is all a learning experience then I don't mind that one little bit.

More or less everything broken is a bit of an exaggeration. The engine is strong, the clutch and gearbox are in good order and the haldex issues are "one of those" where the system is actually working, it just throws up a code on vcds now and then. All in all I still think I got a good deal for my cash on what is a no more than average mileage motor.

Cheers,

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

After real life took over for a while I finally got back to playing with the TT and decided to get the AC compressor out.

I got my mate to vac it out with his kit so I wasn't going to affect the ozone layer and then I went in a bit blind.

First I got a few pipes out of the way like the hard charge pipe and also swung the evap and power steering out of the way to give myself maximum room.

Started with the aux belt, spannered back the tensioner and put a 3mm allen key through to retain it.

I also pulled the hose off from the thermostat housing, lost maybe a pint of coolant but figured it would be worth it for the extra room.

Took the electrical connections off the battery and then the alternator and undid the two bolts. The alternator looks very new so it wasn't over stiff or anything and levered out without too much effort.

I could then see the compressor properly, removed it's electrical connection and then used a 6mm allen key socket to remove the two pipes. They came off pretty easy and the seals look nice an intact.

Took the two bolts off that hold the compressor on and a few light whacks with a lump hammer and a bit of wood and it popped out.

I have now ordered the replacement (no rush as the car isn't being used daily) for a massive £25 ! Hopefully it's ok if not I might be able to transplant the clutch from the new one to the old one so I'm pretty hopeful.

pics attached for posterity.

cheers,

malty


----------



## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

Well done lad, you may need to file back the mounting faces of the replacement one where the long bolts go to get it to fit on but that looks like a job well done.

Stevie


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Got it all installed yesterday, took it round to be gassed up, everything held pressure fine, turned ac on, clutch engaged and the fans span up. All good I thought. Unfortunately no cold air so I'm guessing that the compressor itself is goosed. I can try plan b which means getting the gas out again and swapping with my old compressor but with the clutch mechanism from the eBay one but I think I'll wait for a cooler day !

Cheers

Malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

Just for the sake of it I tried the a/c again today. Again the clutch kicked in and so did the fans but no cold air. I connected a pressure gauge that I had borrowed to the low side port and it read that there was gas in there but low. Intrigued I went back to the guy I know with the proper kit and he pressure tested it all again, no leaks but he agreed that it was low on gas and pressure but couldn't explain why. He refilled it with the correct amount and some oil and suddenly cold air !!

No idea what happened, maybe some kind of air lock ? I don't know enough about how they work but it's now definitely working and isn't leaking anywhere.

Happy days

cheers,

malty


----------



## maltloaf (May 8, 2015)

The last few starts after the car has been stood I noticed that there were puffs of smoke coming from behind the engine for a few minutes. I have suspected the rocker cover gasket to be dodgy for a while so I stripped everything out and replaced it. Sure enough the last guy to have done the job must have been a plumber or something. Masses and masses of sealant everywhere on both sides and all over the old gasket. Stripping the lot off properly made the job about double the time but at least it's now done properly (this is the third one I've done! (One previous tt and a golf 1.8t)

One thing that is puzzling me if anyone has any ideas is the interior lights won't go off unless forced off with the big rocker switch. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious ? Both door microswitches are working fine as the windows drop when opened but with the doors closed and the switch in the centre, all three lights stay on.

**edit** even more confused now. Opened and closed all the door and still no change, windows still dropped etc but lights stayed on. Then just before I left the car, it started doing the EXACT opposite. Lights wouldn't come ON until forced on. very very puzzling....

Many thanks,

Malty


----------



## Bouncypete (Feb 3, 2017)

This is an excellent thread. Loads of good info here.


----------



## Stillmotion88 (Jun 16, 2017)

Hi there

Just joined the mark 1 TT forum. Looking for advice on buying my first ever TT

Looking for a Quattro model in good condition. Any advice on what to look for and listen for. What goes bad on the mark 1

Looking forward to some cool advice

Many thanks

Lawrence


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Stillmotion88 said:


> Hi there
> Just joined the mark 1 TT forum. Looking for advice on buying my first ever TT
> Looking for a Quattro model in good condition. Any advice on what to look for and listen for. What goes bad on the mark 1
> Looking forward to some cool advice
> Many thanks Lawrence


Hi, Welcome to the TTF.
My standard reply for would be Mk1 owners

Service history is very important. Dash instruments (dashpod) read correctly & coolant temp reaches 90 within a couple of miles & stays there.
It has xenon headlights, make sure the headlight washers work, MOT fail.
3.2 V6 no turbo or cambelt to worry about, so should be more reliable & a nicer exhaust note.
DSG may be weak link, unless you can find a manual. Expensive to repair, but probably no more expensive than a manuals clutch.
Check no delay when pulling away & no juddering when reversing slowly while turning up an incline or into a tight parking space.
V6 Chain wear can be checked using VagCom, very expensive to replace.
Don't rush into it. A good TT is a wonderful car, a bad un can be a money pit.
Plenty of good uns out there, but probably more bad uns, *so as I said don't rush into it.*
A bad TT, could be the most expensive car you've ever bought.

Roadsters, check roof operation thorougly & carpets for damp, especially in the rear. Roof drains block easily & damp can cause lot of future electrical probs in rest of car.

Hoggy.


----------

