# SOLVED: Lock/Unlock Acoustic Confirmation in ODBeleven - working?



## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

I'm wondering if someone can confirm that enabling "Lock/Unlock Acoustic Confirmation" in the app (the ones you get with ODBeleven) in ODBeleven is working for them?
I have tried enabling this alarm feature using the app inside the ODBeleven App to tweak it on/off for the Lock/Unlock and I get no sound when I lock/unlock the car.

I have an outstanding fault ("_00470 - Combination comfort Databus in Single Wire: Open Circuit_" on the gateway unit) registered in my ODBeleven scan and I think it might be the alarm causing it.
I've read on another couple of posts that the batteries can corrode the alarm PCB badly enough to cause all sorts of issues.

Just need someone to confirm that "Lock/Unlock Acoustic Confirmation" does indeed work for them.
Thanks all.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Have you checked the measurement blocks?


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Have you checked the measurement blocks?
> 
> View attachment 481570


It's too generic for me to know what that wants me to check, so I moved onto checking wiring/connectors from/to control modules.
In another thread I noticed that someone else got the same fault and had issues with their siren. So I thought I would run a quick test of my siren. Doesn't appear to work.
Next thing I plan to check is disconnect the door looms and re-scan.

Any tips on which MVBs you think I should be checking? Is this related to your recent interest in the alarm activation sources?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Inside the alarm/siren case are set of NiMH batteries which have a lifetime of approximately 6-8 years. As they continue to age, they will eventually fail and can damage the circuit board resulting in the siren going of randomly and/or triggering various fault codes;

*• 01134* - Alarm Horn (H12): No Signal/Communication
*• 00470* - Combination comfort Databus in Single Wire: Open Circuit.
*• 16346* - Control Module Faulty static

If this is the case with your alarm batteries and PCB, it would explain why the OBDeleven code change isn't working. This post might help -








FAQ - Audi TT (8J) H12 Alarm Siren Fault Code 01134...


These post covers several different topics - • Alarm Fault Codes • Using VCDS or OBDeleven to change the Chirp • Alarm Siren Replacement • How To Replace Batteries in the Alarm Siren There are a set of Ni-MH battery inside the alarm housing with a lifespan of about 6-8 years. When these...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

I use OBDeleven to turn on the alarm chirp successfully.
jez


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Jezzie said:


> I use OBDeleven to turn on the alarm chirp successfully.
> jez


Thanks buddy. Now I know for sure I've got an issue with the alarm, I can book a half day in the calendar to get it out and mess with it.
I will check the door connectors anyway, but I suspect I'm gonna find some horror show with the alarm PCB.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you opt for a used alarm off eBay or some other reseller, try to get one that's as new as possible so you have relatively "fresh" batteries.

As noted in this diagram, if the *H12 Alarm Horn* PCB is damaged, it can't get a signal to or from the *J393 CSCCU *which would explain why you can't change the settings with OBDeleven.


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## Gizmo68 (Feb 26, 2012)

The batteries leaking in the siren are a known issue across the VAG range.

I have enabled this on numerous VAG cars (several were TT's) but with VCDS.
You could try the option of using the horn just to double check the coding is working and the siren is at fault.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *darrylmg* - If you're up for a challenge, you can save yourself the €125 VAG wants for a new one and just spend €20 for a set of new batteries and replace them yourself - if the PCB isn't damaged.
_*EDIT* - Just got a quote from Audi. The price is actually €200 plus VAT for a new alarm siren._








How To Replace Batteries in the Alarm Siren


Sourcing the Batteries The batteries are Varta 150mAh NiMH cells in two banks of three cells mounted vertically. The cells themselves are freely available in banks of three, but the particular vertical mounting pin arrangement seems to have been an Audi special and I haven't been able to...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Steve in Ireland (Oct 13, 2017)

I think "Lock/Unlock Acoustic Confirmation" is a new app since I last looked. I've just checked, and I have it now.
But I used OBDeleven to turn the chirps on via changing bits in the coding, using instructions from this forum.

However, am I missing something? If you want to check if your alarm is working, you could... set off the alarm?


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## Steve in Ireland (Oct 13, 2017)

I've just tried the app in OBDeleven and it does not work on my car, but reports "failed" if I try to change the settings either on or off.
So I went in via Long Coding, unit 46, bytes 8 & 9, and cleared the flags manually to turn off the chirps. I've had them sounding for a couple of months and decided I don't like them. Too loud.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steve in Ireland said:


> I've just tried the app in OBDeleven and it does not work on my car, but reports "failed" if I try to change the settings either on or off.
> So I went in via Long Coding, unit 46, bytes 8 & 9, and cleared the flags manually to turn off the chirps. I've had them sounding for a couple of months and decided I don't like them. Too loud.


Alright I'll set the alarm off.
But if that doesn't work it could just be my ninja skillz.
I'll then try the long coding.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *darrylmg* - If you're up for a challenge, you can save yourself the €125 VAG wants for a new one and just spend €20 for a set of new batteries and replace them yourself - if the PCB isn't damaged.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If I can't get the thing to work then I will definitely try and fix it.
I can't find it as cheap as the price you've mentioned!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ darrylmg - That was an "off the top of my head" quote from my local Audi service manager. So it could be higher. I should stop by and get an actual quote since I'm going to have to replace mine sooner or later, I still have the factory fitted one. I honestly can't believe it's lasted this long.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steve in Ireland said:


> I've just tried the app in OBDeleven and it does not work on my car, but reports "failed" if I try to change the settings either on or off.
> So I went in via Long Coding, unit 46, bytes 8 & 9, and cleared the flags manually to turn off the chirps. I've had them sounding for a couple of months and decided I don't like them. Too loud.


This morning I sat in the car (always freaks people out when they enter my property and I appear from the parked car).
I set off the alarm by locking it from the fob and it went off about 1 mins later.
Not a very load alarm. More of a peep peep peep like a little chick.

I then deactivated the "acoustic chirp on lock" setting using ODBeleven. When I use this app it always says "success".

I then looked at the long coding and reactivated the acoustic chirp using the app again and checked long coding again.
It changes the coding in the central electrics module (i don't have a separate convinience module 46) byte 05.










In summary, the alarm is working but I can't get the chirp on lock and/or unlock.

I think i will resort to checking door loom connectors and re-scanning to try and trace my fault code.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That _00470_ fault code still makes me suspicious of the alarm, especially if you can't clear it.
But out of curiosity, does it make any difference if you tick both the *Locking* and *Unlocking* blocks?


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> That _00470_ fault code still makes me suspicious of the alarm, especially if you can't clear it.
> But out of curiosity, does it make any difference if you tick both the *Locking* and *Unlocking* blocks?
> View attachment 481743


I can tick them manually, or can select "lock/unlock" as the option in the app. Neither works for me. 
My fault is that something is operating in "single wire" mode. So you could be correct. The alarm function may work in single wire mode, but 2 wire mode is needed to change the settings? Who knows.

Either way I still need to extract the alarm and replace those batteries.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

FYI - I just stopped by Audi parts and they quoted me *€ 201.91 *(excluding tax) for a brand new *1K0951605F* siren.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

If you are able to change the coding, it is easy to do manually. See here for both module versions How to: enable lock/unlock chirp menu in DIS


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> FYI - I just stopped by Audi parts and they quoted me *€ 201.91 *(excluding tax) for a brand new *1K0951605F* siren.


That's outrageous! It's the same part across the VAG group and they can't reduce the manufacturing cost?!!!


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> If you are able to change the coding, it is easy to do manually. See here for both module versions How to: enable lock/unlock chirp menu in DIS


I can see this in ODBeleven. I'll try it tomorrow.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> I can see this in ODBeleven. I'll try it tomorrow.


Tried this, didn't work. ODBeleven says success when writing.

However, I think my alarm has a problem. The unit is not working in dual wire CAN mode.
So I think that explains why I can't change the settings. 
In fact, removing the alarm unit altogether has resolved a fault on the convenience CAN.
I now have a fault about the alarm not responding, but that's obviously because I removed it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Once you open up the alarm siren case, I'll bet you find the batteries are toast and have damaged the PCB.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Once you open up the alarm siren case, I'll bet you find the batteries are toast and have damaged the PCB.


I managed to hack into the siren unit fairly easily.
However, it's not definitive as to what the issue is.
The batteries look good.
They also give out the required 2x 3.6volts.
Looking at the PCB it looks like it has started coroding in places.
So I'm not convinced I can resolve this by replacing the batteries alone.
I really need a second opinion on how the board looks and whether I can clean it up.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

The soldering on the pins of the batteries, the transformer and the connector all looks crap. If you’re skilled at soldering then it’s worth a try cleaning them up and resoldering.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Jezzie said:


> The soldering on the pins of the batteries, the transformer and the connector all looks crap. If you’re skilled at soldering then it’s worth a try cleaning them up and resoldering.


I got skillz, but not soldering skillz. 

(BTW, if you've not seen the "I got skillz" youtube guy, you're really missing out. ).

I've found that some of the posts on this forum have a typo for the part number.
It's 1K0951605C (one-k-zero, not one-k-o).
Just over £109 from lllparts.co.uk plus about £14 delivery. If it lasts 10 years that's £10 for every year. Still expensive for what it is.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *darrylmg* - I stopped by the local Audi Service Center this past Friday and they quoted me €201.91 (plus VAT) for a new Alarm siren.
Part number they quoted is now 1K0.951.605 *F* so it seems they've made a few more revisions.
Looking through 7Zap parts website, they list the revision "C" as being used for all Mk2 production years; 2007-2014 and continued up to 2016 on the Jetta. Note - 7Zap only has parts up to 2016 so I can't find anything newer to determine when the "D" revision was released.
LLL sounds like a bargain if it's actually a brand new F-revision. (£109 = €128.88) "What you gonna do about it?" 

*EDIT* - I just posted on how to determine the alarm siren production date so you can find a good used one with batteries that aren't too old.Click *here*.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *darrylmg* - I stopped by the local Audi Service Center this past Friday and they quoted me €201.91 (plus VAT) for a new Alarm siren.
> Part number they quoted is now 1K0.951.605 *F* so it seems they've made a few more revisions.
> Looking through 7Zap parts website, they list the revision "C" as being used for all Mk2 production years; 2007-2014 and continued up to 2016 on the Jetta. Note - 7Zap only has parts up to 2016 so I can't find anything newer to determine when the "D" revision was released.
> LLL sounds like a bargain if it's actually a brand new F-revision. (£109 = €128.88) "What you gonna do about it?"


On the lllparts site, searching for the "C" revision and it includes a picture of the "F" revision. 
I don't mind which version they send, provided it works.
Unfortunately I won't be buying just yet because I've already spent money on the undertray and lower spoiler lip. It can wait until summer time. Priorities.
I've got better things I want to do first... spark plugs.... 🤗 (took some vibration and sound levels yesterday with the original plugs in).

Interestingly, I also notice that every time I scan the car with ODBeleven it shows battery voltage at 11.7v (Engine is off).
I think my faulting alarm has caused the CAN to remain active and not go to sleep, causing a slow battery drain.
It's just a theory, but in the coming days I will be checking to see if that latent voltage output goes up after a nice run and remains up.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

This morning I decided to investigate why my alarm PCB has corroded.
It's all nicely sealed in the plastic housing right?
Wrong!

It cannot be a sealed unit otherwise it would defeat the objective of blasting the eardrums of any potential thief.

Taking apart the speaker unit you will notice the 2 tiny drain holes.
Both of mine were clogged with wet sticky mud which had travelled into those holes from the plenum chamber facing side (the siren speaker points to the floor).
The mud had actually travelled slightly up into the speaker inverted dome area.
I can't really explain how the mud got there, but it's possible that power washing at a specific angle could force mud up the back of the wheel arch. Very difficult though.

I think the wet mud just provided a nice damp blanket for the unit allowing the moisture to build up. My siren metal housing was completely full of mud and it had blocked all the air slits (again for the sound to escape).

Don't be fooled into thinking this unit is water tight!

Cut in half it look like this with the speaker facing down:

























Removing the speaker we see a hole.
I can blow air through this hole and it exits from the housing:









Air comes out of the underside of the dome bit:



























If you buy a used unit off eBay, it may be working but you would not know if it had any corrosion in progress or how it looked before removal from the source vehicle.
Maybe buy new and save yourself from some later issues.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Very interesting. I think we all assumed these were completely sealed units. Maybe we should all be looking for used alarms from dryer climates!
Thanks to you opening the case, we also know exactly the date and time it was produced.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> Tried this, didn't work. ODBeleven says success when writing.


What didn't work? You don't see the setting in the DIS?


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> What didn't work? You don't see the setting in the DIS?


Sorry i should have been clearer.
I got the setting in DIS, but I could not enable the alarm chirp on lock/unlock even from the DIS.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *darrylmg* - Just to clarify, where these two red arrows are pointing - these are the holes you are referring to?










From these images, it seems those holes are to there to allow water that might collect in the outer case, to drain through to the other side, not into the case. Given the case mounts with the bolt on the top, (as shown on the left) I'm not quite sure how water would collect in this area anyway - at least not with the TT.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *darrylmg* - Just to clarify, where these two red arrows are pointing - these are the holes you are referring to?
> 
> View attachment 481988
> 
> ...


Correct.
Water didn't collect in mine either.
Wet mud worked its way down those holes. 
The metal casing has slits. Mine were full of mud.
As water evaporated off the mud, it could have gone up into the unit through the hole for the speaker. Essentially, don't let your siren get caked in mud.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Question is, how has mud got in there in the first place?

I run vented inner arch linings for my wings to work (areo wise)
And even still I have nowhere near that level of mud inside my inner arches.
With an OEM arch liner - there must be and issue / it missing for the level of mud shown up there to be entering


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

I'll get some pics and upload for a comparison, but to me the arch liner looks pretty solidly in place and covers it off nicely. All screw holes seem present and correct.
My theory is that it is from power washing right at the top right of the arch liner. Not by me, because it's just a Sunday driver and it hasn't seen a lot of muddy conditions with me driving, buy maybe a previous owner lived on a farm or something.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Charging the battery will produce heat. When air inside gets hot it expand. When air cools down it contracts creating a small vacuum. Check egg in a bottle experiment.

Check the wire that supplies power for any sign of corrosion and oxidation. It PCB looks burnt.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> I'll get some pics and upload for a comparison, but to me the arch liner looks pretty solidly in place and covers it off nicely. All screw holes seem present and correct.
> My theory is that it is from power washing right at the top right of the arch liner. Not by me, because it's just a Sunday driver and it hasn't seen a lot of muddy conditions with me driving, buy maybe a previous owner lived on a farm or something.


Here we go, some pics of the arch liner.
It tucks in really well against the arch sides and took some flexing to get it out enough to get to the siren without taking the whole thing off.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Today I had the bonnet up and got a good view of where the mud has come from.
There was a telltale dirt pool (needs a serious wash in the spring time).
It must have come off the edge of the plenum cover. There's a gap in the bodywork where it can pass through and then land almost directly ontop of the siren casing and either slide between the unit and the inside bodywork or just seeps through the slit where mounting bolt is. Once inside the metal casing it blocks the slits at the bottom and gradually fills up.
I'll upload a pic tomorrow (phone is dead now).

When I eventually refit the alarm siren, I plan to put the entire metal casing inside a plastic bag with the opening facing down towards the slits. Any mud will just skip off the plastic unless it is able to get through the whole I will need to make for the bolt (doubt it as it is tightly bolted to the mount).
Because of the bag being open at the bottom, it should have enough air to not cause a moisture build up.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> Today I had the bonnet up and got a good view of where the mud has come from.
> There was a telltale dirt pool (needs a serious wash in the spring time).
> It must have come off the edge of the plenum cover. There's a gap in the bodywork where it can pass through and then land almost directly ontop of the siren casing and either slide between the unit and the inside bodywork or just seeps through the slit where mounting bolt is. Once inside the metal casing it blocks the slits at the bottom and gradually fills up.
> I'll upload a pic tomorrow (phone is dead now).
> ...


With the bonnet open (it was raining when I took this one), we can see the bottom right hand side of the windshield and beginning of the plenum cover, plus on the bottom left we see the plastic that wraps round to the front door.










Here you can see the black plastic cap (#1) on the front-right of the car.
Removing this is required to get to the bolt that secures the siren metal casing.

You can also see the tail end of the plastic cover (#2) which sits to the side of the plenum cover and joins to the .

There are two small gaps (#3 and #4). Gap #3 leads down to where the siren metal casing is bolted.
If mud went down, there is a good chance it will land on-top of the casing:










The telltale pool of dried mud residue is there in the middle between the two gaps.
I can only guess that mud and other debris that builds up around the left side of the plenum plastic cover and the door, can feed its way down to these gaps.
We're talking a long time (years) for a significant amount to build up on the siren metal casing, and you would need to be parking under a lot of trees or caking the car in mud somehow, but that is the only explanation I have for how the mud got onto and into the siren metal casing.










In the spring time, I will be aiming to give it a good solid wash. The only problem buying a car in winter is that a person is less motivated to clean it as thoroughly due to the cold and wet weather.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

As you said, wheel arch looks to be what it should!
So looks like your other conclusion could indeed be your case - but covering it as you have planned should help future proof it


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What about relocating it to the engine bay?


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

MT-V6 said:


> What about relocating it to the engine bay?


Mines in the scuttle tray - as it no longer fitted with my wings, has been there over 2 years


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> What about relocating it to the engine bay?


Hmm it's do-able. The cable could be just pushed back through its large existing hole, into the bay.
The connector might be a tad large but I can splice it back on.
I'll have a look when I'm next outside and it's not raining.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *darrylmg* - This *post* will show you how to remove the plenum cover.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@darrylmg

Did you get any further with this buddy? - I’ve just tried enabling chirp with OBDEleven with no joy, but I think I may have some of the same DTC’s that potentially relate to issues with the siren - I think. I’ll post up some images below -


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

I've got a saved search setup on ebay where I'm keeping an eye out.
Thats all I've done. 
I'm looking for either:

recent (2014) dated used siren from an Audi TT.
a newer "F" version of the siren.

I will probably end up with the first option or slightly older, hack it apart and replace the batteries. 
But due to my specific issue I had I don't want to risk buying any old unit that may already have some corrosion.

Get the wheel off, get in there and unplug it, then rescan for faults. It's the only sure way of knowing.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

OBDeleven One-Touch Apps generally don't work for two reasons; (1) there's an existing fault (2) the software, firmware or hardware isn't present in your vehicle.

If you have a defective alarm siren, odds are you need to get that sorted first.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> OBDeleven One-Touch Apps generally don't work for two reasons; (1) there's an existing fault (2) the software, firmware or hardware isn't present in your vehicle.
> 
> If you have a defective alarm siren, odds are you need to get that sorted first.


I’m thinking along the same lines - faulty siren. I’ll check shortly to see if the alarm siren works by triggering the alarm.

Fortunately, I only have 4 recurring DTC’s, all of which come back after clearing/rescanning.

They are:

19 Gateway
Infotainment data usage in single wire - open circuit 00469
Combination comfort data us in single wire - open circuit 00470

25 Immobilzer
Control module - faulty - static 16346

47 Sound system
Databus infotainment - electrical error in circuit - static 01305

It seems that 00470 & 16346 point to the siren, going off your post below:









FAQ - Audi TT (8J) H12 Alarm Siren Fault Code 01134...


These post covers several different topics - • Alarm Fault Codes • Using VCDS or OBDeleven to change the Chirp • Alarm Siren Replacement • How To Replace Batteries in the Alarm Siren There are a set of Ni-MH battery inside the alarm housing with a lifespan of about 6-8 years. When these...




www.ttforum.co.uk














Given the location of the siren, I have a good idea that mine has been subjected to the elements due to a poorly fitting wheel arch liner which has since been rectified with a new liner properly fitted.

Does that sound accurate?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Makes sense. Generally speaking, if a fault is cleared and returns, it can mean; (a) one or more components are defective - when you replace a part thinking it's bad, and the fault comes back, this usually indicates it's probably something else. (b) The repaired or replaced part requires an Adaptation or Basic Setting in order to clear the fault.

Alarm Sirens can be a bit tricky because it could just be that the batteries are dead. Or they've leaked and damaged the circuit board so severely it's reporting a bad or open signal.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

So……the siren works!

Just been out to set off the siren/alarm. As I’ve not heard it before, I don’t know if this is how it should sound, but is loud, not just a small cheeping noise as @darrylmg said his was like earlier in the thread.

Short video, goes off around 20sec in I think…….


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## Steve in Ireland (Oct 13, 2017)

darrylmg said:


> I'm looking for either:
> 
> recent (2014) dated used siren from an Audi TT.
> a newer "F" version of the siren.


Any particular reason you want one from a TT? The devices are identical across the whole VW/Audi group for any given version. Mine came from a wrecked 2014 Seat.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steve in Ireland said:


> Any particular reason you want one from a TT? The devices are identical across the whole VW/Audi group for any given version. Mine came from a wrecked 2014 Seat.


No, I see your point. There's a lot of vag cars with the same looking part.
I'm not really looking hard as you can tell. Removing the broken siren has resulted in those generic faults disappearing, so for now I'm happy to work-on/buy other stuff


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

After emailing my local parts manager at Audi, I had confirmation that the “F” revision of the alarm siren was completely compatible with my TT. he also kind enough to quote me £200+ for a new one….ouch 🤔

Fortunately, I spotted one on eBay the other day, F revision coming from a VW Transporter T6 that was being broken, date was 2019 so shouldn’t really be any issues with batteries or PCB hopefully.

The cradle/cage looks different but I imagine I can just reuse the case on my existing siren, given the siren unit itself is the same dimensions.

Not bad for £35 delivered 😉



Spoiler: Pics of siren


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

That's good going. Let us know if it fixes your issue. 
I've also just bought a newish one off ebay. Not as new as yours, but hopefully working. Always a gamble, but for £20, it's waaay cheaper than a new one.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

It’s worth a punt IMHO. Nothing ventured and all that crap…..might be some time before I get around to fitting it but I’ll update accordingly with the results!


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Today was the day.
I spent a few evenings fitting replacement varta mempac batteries into a 2013 ebay siren unit. Slightly newer than mine and I hoped it had no corrosion on the PCB, but more than likely to need new batteries.










I did say my soldering is rubbish!


I found the new batteries on ebay about £6 each but they come with the legs at the wrong angle.










I used the following steps to prepare the new batteries:
1. Rip off the legs on the new batteries.
2. Straighten the legs.
3. Rough up the surface of the battery terminal faces with a metal file.
4. Solder one legs along the length of each battery terminal face.
This makes it much easier to solder them in place on the board.










Because I had already had practice at opening the siren unit, this time I used a better technique. 

Heat the black plastic case around where the joint line is using a heat gun.
Then use a Stanley knife to cut careful through on the joint line.
It takes some force but it is much neater than a saw.










The old batteries on the board were removed delicately by prising the legs off with a small screwdriver. 
You want to try and leave the legs attached to the board:










I then slotted the new batteries onto the board.
It's important to line them up fairly accurately because when you clip the PCB back into the black plastic case, if won't fit if your batteries are out of alignment. 
At this point I put a little bit of hot glue to hold the batteries still before I soldered both the legs on the board to the leg that I had already attached on each of the faces of the batteries. 










Nasty but it works.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

You can check the voltage from the front two faces.



















I clipped the PCB back into the black case and tested it on the car.
It worked!

How do I know? because I scanned the car with ODBeleven after clearing all faults and I had zero faults.
Also, when I detached the siren from the car connector, the siren went off in my face and kept chirping until I extracted the PCB to disconnect the speaker connector.
After testing I put the siren back together again and hot glued (with my pink gun) the two parts of the case together










I went round with the knife to clean up the glue a little:










Finally I refitted back onto the car.

Absolute pain of a job due to the multitude of tools required and the fact you have to get the car up, wheel off and get behind the wheel arch.
However, for £30 I've got a unit that should last through my ownership of the car plus I have a working alarm. 🤗


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Wow, that’s a great result mate! 👍🏻 lots of hard work and dedication has paid off. So, can you now enable alarm chirp via remote locking via OBDEleven correctly? - my replacement siren is still sat in its box awaiting my attention, hoping to get around to it soon but I’ve got a plethora of parts on order fro LLL that are more urgent such as soft top locking latch repair kit for manual locking of the roof - some kind previous owner broke the thread off of the tool to manually lock in the spline shaft of the motor.

I had to do some soldering on a PCB board on my home theatre amp a while ago, a bit like you, it wasn’t pretty but it did the job and that’s all that matters. Who’s gonna wanna look at your circuit boards anyhow 😂


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Wow, that’s a great result mate! 👍🏻 lots of hard work and dedication has paid off. So, can you now enable alarm chirp via remote locking via OBDEleven correctly? - my replacement siren is still sat in its box awaiting my attention, hoping to get around to it soon but I’ve got a plethora of parts on order fro LLL that are more urgent such as soft top locking latch repair kit for manual locking of the roof - some kind previous owner broke the thread off of the tool to manually lock in the spline shaft of the motor.
> 
> I had to do some soldering on a PCB board on my home theatre amp a while ago, a bit like you, it wasn’t pretty but it did the job and that’s all that matters. Who’s gonna wanna look at your circuit boards anyhow 😂


Thanks  I'm pleased it's sorted. I've got to leave the car for 3 days at a train station next week, so I really wanted the alarm working. 
After all the pics I took, and rushing to finish the job and get the dinner going before the family got home, I just didn't have the phone battery or time to test that chirp.
I'll do it tomorrow when I take some more pics of my door for Wolvez.
I'm feeling confident though because when it went off, it's really loud, definitely not the cheep cheep noise I heard before when testing the alarm. That must be an internal beeper somewhere.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

You deserve a relax mate, work well done for one day. I’ll look forward to hearing how it’s panned out but looking good so far!


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Wow, that’s a great result mate! 👍🏻 lots of hard work and dedication has paid off. So, can you now enable alarm chirp via remote locking via OBDEleven correctly? - my replacement siren is still sat in its box awaiting my attention, hoping to get around to it soon but I’ve got a plethora of parts on order fro LLL that are more urgent such as soft top locking latch repair kit for manual locking of the roof - some kind previous owner broke the thread off of the tool to manually lock in the spline shaft of the motor.
> 
> I had to do some soldering on a PCB board on my home theatre amp a while ago, a bit like you, it wasn’t pretty but it did the job and that’s all that matters. Who’s gonna wanna look at your circuit boards anyhow 😂


I can confirm that the lock/unlock chirp is now working. 😀
I tested with the ODBeleven one-touch App and it worked perfectly. 

So the summary of my issues:

Chirp during lock/unlock would not turn on in ODBeleven. 
Also would not work when trying long coding.
Some sort of cheep cheep noise was output during alarm triggering but it was not the main siren making this noise.
I had a fault on the gateway "comfort data bus in single wire mode" when scanning with ODBeleven. 
Around the same time I also had a rapidly discharging main battery. But I put this down to cold temperature and battery age, but it could have been the draw from the siren unit not sleeping due to the PCB corrosion. 
When extracting the siren it did not go off (tamper mechanism).
When extracting the PCB I had signs of corrosion due to water (my siren was caked in mud).
By swapping out the siren for a working PCB and putting in new batteries, all is working again and no faults in ODBeleven.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@darrylmg - that’s fab news mate! I’m gonna hope for similar results, just hope the batteries on my PCB from the donor 2019 T6 Transporter are still good….three years, they bloody should be!

My only other cause of concern may well be another fault code under ”immobiliser” - 16346 - control module faulty, static. Did you ever have that DTC?

I don’t know if that affects the siren, but mine goes off easily enough and sounds very loud with the current siren installed. I’ve looked at the fault code and all I can find is that it might be due to a bad ROM and the immobiliser module is in the instrument cluster - no suggestion about how to rectify.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> @darrylmg - that’s fab news mate! I’m gonna hope for similar results, just hope the batteries on my PCB from the donor 2019 T6 Transporter are still good….three years, they bloody should be!
> 
> My only other cause of concern may well be another fault code under ”immobiliser” - 16346 - control module faulty, static. Did you ever have that DTC?
> 
> I don’t know if that affects the siren, but mine goes off easily enough and sounds very loud with the current siren installed. I’ve looked at the fault code and all I can find is that it might be due to a bad ROM and the immobiliser module is in the instrument cluster - no suggestion about how to rectify.


Your batteries are probably fine for at least another 8 years in that one bud🤞
Nope, I've not had that fault code, yet. You could try pulling the immobiliser fuse out (possible?), clearing all faults then rescanning. If the fault disappears then you might be closer to finding the problem.


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