# Battery relocation & Cut-off switch



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Currently exploring the avenue of relocating the battery to the boot to a) free up space for a 2 litre oil catch can under the bonnet and b) move some of the weight rearwards.

Whilst doing this i also want to install a battery cut-off switch as this will be required for any events i might take part in in the future.

Has anyone got experience of this and are able to offer "how to" advice, tips, links etc. as i'm completely new to this!


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## Rich196 (Mar 31, 2011)

2 litre catch can? Jesus!! Does it need to be that big? Think of all the extra weight. May as well put a oil return line onto the sump if your collecting that much!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Yeah it's unusually large but the regulations for a couple of series ask for it unfortunately :x

Seems very overkill like you say, but no option!


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## UR_TT (Nov 8, 2008)

Hi,

Don´t have any input on the installement of the cut off, but I have som new ideas I want to do myself. Flipswitch rahter than the std pull handle installation, much neather and allowed according to FIA. Just waitning for links on parts.

On battery relocation, I have mine in the boot today. But I´m thinking of relocateing it to the middle of the car. The cubbyhole where the speakers normaly sits. Benefits, wheight inside boths axels and a small counter weight to the driver. 
Installment on oposite side from driver.
I bought some light weight abs plastic from the ebay seller VT posted about. Small battery in the hole and cover up with abs sheet. Havent done it yet, but will post when ready.

Pic of the space I´m tinking about. 









//U


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Long wires = more weight. What about up against the pax footwell in a cage?

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Von Twinzig said:


> Long wires = more weight. What about up against the pax footwell in a cage?
> 
> VT


Good call, i quite like the idea UR_TT has mentioned, I have a tall friend who may or may not ride along for a bit of fun and probably wouldn't appreciate the battery... Come to think of it, nor would I if I let someone else drive her and I was a passenger!

UR_TT do you have a smaller race battery?


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## UR_TT (Nov 8, 2008)

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > Long wires = more weight. What about up against the pax footwell in a cage?
> ...


Exactly why i want to realocate, less cable. Been thinking about golve compartment aswell for even shorter reloacate. 
Goal is away from the front, with the minimum of weight adding. 
And yes light weight battery comes as a given, i run the small Odessy PC 680, needs some atteition on service charging.
Link just genereic what i found didnt buy from there. 
http://www.barden-ukshop.com/odyssey-pc ... -789-p.asp


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

Can anybody confirm or deny that just having the old fashioned manual cut off will not work?? I was told that having the alternator in the Audi configuration will continue to power the car so you need one of the electrical systems to kill the power.

BW


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

So i've been getting my head into this at bit more at the weekend...

Just need to find the wiring and the best place to distrub the wiring between ignition and coils... any takers?! :?


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## Gewdraa (Jan 5, 2017)

Why don't you disconnect the battery negative cable while the car is running?
Will it stop or keep running.
Hmm


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I left everything in the engine bay, positive out of the bay > skill switch > positive to the battery, then negative to the chassis.

Installed in the passenger footwell:


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## Gewdraa (Jan 5, 2017)

Sounds like a good setup.
Just for interest when you use the kill sw (remove + pos) does it stop running?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

1781cc said:


> I left everything in the engine bay, positive out of the bay > skill switch > positive to the battery, then negative to the chassis.
> 
> Installed in the passenger footwell:


You have the nice simple one! I've gotta wire in the ignition and a resistor in there too [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Gewdraa (Jan 5, 2017)

Nick 
That's the point.
Just because your wiring diagram shows ign etc, dosnt mean you have to use it, 
It's just like a light switch, put it off and the car should stop running.
Cutting the positive should stop the car.
Try taking the positive off the battery with the engine running.
If it dosnt stop then you will need to find out why.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

If you're going racing you need Nicks jobbie as you need to isolate the alternator too otherwise the engine could keep running.

Mine is a simple battery isolator as it's just for trackdays.

VT


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## Gewdraa (Jan 5, 2017)

Ok
Then he will have to find the wiring diagram.
Can't help sorry.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Gewdraa said:


> Nick
> That's the point.
> Just because your wiring diagram shows ign etc, dosnt mean you have to use it,
> It's just like a light switch, put it off and the car should stop running.
> ...


Yeah it needs to be wired correctly for racing standards.

I think I'm there now with a bit of guidance from Prawn and Badger so I'll post up the score if it works!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

You have to cut power to the ignition coils or the ecu for a proper cut-off.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Well i got mine mounted and the easy part wired up!



Going to tackle the ignition and that another day i think, for now, i'll use it as a basic cut off!


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## Gewdraa (Jan 5, 2017)

Looks good, nice location.
Q. Does it need to have a lanyard? 
So it won't get misplaced.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Gewdraa said:


> Looks good, nice location.
> Q. Does it need to have a lanyard?
> So it won't get misplaced.


No requirements for one, to be honest it would probably get in the way if i did have one!


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## nikkij (Feb 1, 2019)

The battery should be checked at frequent intervals and should never be overcharged and while charging keep in mind that if you do not have proper electrolytes then go for distilled water only.


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