# No start + "ESP fault! Brake fault!"



## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Hi all - I'll try again as I somehow got logged out whist posting...

My 2008 TTS has been working just fine until a short drive on Saturday - now the dash lights up with 
*ESP fault! See owners manual *
and *Brake fault! Drive carefully to local workshop*  
The car cranks but doesn't start but the radiator fan switches on immediately.
The rev counter doesn't move.

I've scanned with OBDEleven and see sevaral _*Engine control module (ECM)* No signal/communication_ errors with _Fault code 01314_

I've done a little Googling so next is to check the ECU for water damage (not that I'll know what to do then!) when I manage to pull the wipers off.

I'm sure someone here must come across this before so I'm praying it'll be an easy/cheap fix... [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated please :!:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Dumb questions, but is this the first scan with your *OBDeleven*? It's always a good idea to clear all the faults and run a second scan to ensure it's not just an old fault that may no longer be relevant.

This post from the *Knowledge Base* will help provide you with some guidance for getting the *Plenum Cover* out of the way -

*How to: Plenum Access for Drain Inspection & Cleaning*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1979747


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Rev counter not moving when cranking is usually a failed crankshaft speed sensor.
As above clear faults, crank over again & rescan.
Hoggy.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

For a quick look up of the fault codes, check out this post and scroll down to the bottom of the page -

*FAQ - OBDeleven Open Box Review*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1926899

.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the replies - Good point, but no it's not the first scan on OBDEleven; I scanned, cleared, and scanned again.
I think I read a post by Hoggy re the crank sensor, thanks

More information:
After posting I went back out tot he car and tried again in a vane attempt to start the car. I remember an issue with a Golf Mk4 we had were the solution was to hold the throttle flat to the floor and crank longer thn usual - It didn't work with the TT today, but in doing so another error flashed up to _Switch off engine! Oil low_. Although engine didn't run, I stopped and checked the oil level which was indeed low (barely on Min).

Quick top up with Castrol Edge 5W30 and, weirdly, the error codes vanished one by one by turning the key to the first position. The radiator fan no longer switched on either.
I replaced the oil cap and dipstick to attempt a start, swtiched on the ignition and the errors returned!
Took the caps off and the errors went off... :? 
Whilst they were, I turned the key to the first position and the errors stayed off so I replaced them and cranked and the engine started!!

The car started immediatley and idled fine for about 90 seconds, then cut out and the errors returned.
Ignition off, pause, ignition on, no errors so restarted. This time the car idled for 6 mins then cut out again during another OBDEleven scan.
Ignition off, pause, ignition on, no errors so another restart an a short uneventful drive around the carpark before it cut out again with errors :!:

I can't link together the symptoms with any logic, although I guess the car is smart enough to know it needed oil (it just didn't tell me!)

Could the _Brake fault!_ message be worn pads? Given that the Oil level wasn;t immediately flagged as such, is this Audi's way of warning about brake wear? I've noticed recently a LOT of extra brake dust on the wheels not consistent with the miles/speed I've driven.
Obviously I'll check the pads, but I've had to abandon it for tonight as work called.

SwissJetPilot thanks for the link - I was using that to remove the scuttle - I just need to soak the wiper spindles and use a better puller than the one I had


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, When it starts & then stops & you attempt a start but it fails, does the rev counter show revs.
If not it could still be crank shaft speed sensor failing intermittently.
None of the errors will prevent it starting. 
Hoggy.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, When it starts & then stops & you attempt a start but it fails, does the rev counter show revs.
> If not it could still be crank shaft speed sensor failing intermittently.
> None of the errors will prevent it starting.
> Hoggy.


I'll have to try again and make note, but I'm pretty sure that when it doesn't start, the rev counter doesn't move.

It never starts when those errors are showing, and starts every time they're not. The two errors and the rad fan switching on always happen together, never in isolation.

If the crank sensor is failing, what do I need to do? Could I have upset something when I changed the fuel pump crank follower last week?

Thanks


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Your ECU is the '_brain_' of your car. It is the master controller. If it's unhappy it can affect almost every other control module in your vehicle. If you are having ECU communication issues all sorts of erroneous errors can pop up (not necessarily related to each other)

Your ECU is tucked-up underneath windshield wiper plenum. It is mounted outside and exposed to the elements. If the tray that that houses your wipers / ECU doesn't drain properly, water coming off your windshield collects and your ECU goes for a swim.

First thing I'd do is pull up the plenum and check for signs of drain blockage / water damage and clean as necessary. Next, I'd disconnect the battery and disconnect / reconnect every plug going to your ECU (maybe even spray some electrical contact cleaner into the pins and connector headers to ensure good contact).

Your will likely get several new errors from disconnecting the battery but if your problem was due to a poor electrical connection everything 'should' clear with a short drive.

Hopefully this will resolve your issues as your ECU is a rather expensive component to replace.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

FNChaos said:


> ...Your will likely get several new errors from disconnecting the battery but if your problem was due to a poor electrical connection everything 'should' clear with a short drive.
> 
> Hopefully this will resolve your issues as your ECU is a rather expensive component to replace.


Thanks - this is my next course of action once I manage to free up the wiper spindles. I didn't mention I've already disconnected and reconnected the battery after the faults started. In fact I fitted a brand new one today as the old one was tired and I'd hoped it might make a difference to the current situation...

Might be later in the week before I get another chance to look at the drainage holes under the plenum, but it's definitely something I'll be doing!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Try cleaning the main ground connection at the engine bay. Follow the big black wire connected to the transmission near the starter going to the body. The ECU ground (brown) is bolted beside it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just follow along with *FNChaos*' comment on the location of the ECU shown here with the Plenum Cover removed -

This link will show you how to remove the Plenum Cover -

*How to: Plenum Access for Drain Inspection & Cleaning*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1979747


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Right... work took un unexpected turn, so I haven't had time over the last couple of weeks to even look at the car.
This weekend, however, I got in under the scuttle/plenum and cleaned up. It wasn't too bad under there so only took a few minutes.
The ECU looked pretty clean and dry, although I couldn't remove the anti-tamper cage to check and clean the plugs. I tried cutting a slot in the bolts with a Dremmel but still failed, so no progress.
I'll check earth/ground points when I'm next in there.

Weirdly, the first turn of the key resulted in no error codes and the car fired up as expected. It ran for a few seconds then hesitated and missed a beat, ran a little longer then hesitated again, then lit up the BRAKE error and shut down.

I've made no progress and it's a little disheartening - If I could just manage to remove the security bolts so I could at least feel like I'm doing something useful before calling the local VAG specialist on Tuesday :?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Check your battery connections--clean, tight, corrosion free. Also load test the battery (or have it tested somewhere). ESP & brake fault lights automatically come on if the battery is disconnected and could come on if the battery is low (as a weak battery during cranking can cause modules to drop under terminal voltage and reset similar to disconnecting the battery). If you have a bad battery (or connections) it's also possible the car cuts out at idle, after starting.

If you have TPMS that will also reset and you'll get the warning for that as well. These codes/lights (TPMS, ESP, ABS, power steering) usually all reset upon driving the car a short distance and turning the wheel left/right. If this does not occur you may have a different problem but still I'd check that battery out to begin.

For some reason, any time I disconnect my MAF and turn the ignition on, the same thing happens with all the ABS/ESP/TPMS as if I'd disconnected the battery. I find _that_ pretty odd but they go away in a couple seconds and resetting the TPMS is as easy as a few menu clicks. If you disconnected anything recently, make sure everything has been re-connected properly.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Can you can post your fault scan? Not just the fault code, but the entire text file. When you do, just copy and paste it into the post text field and put {code} in front and {/code} at the end which will create a scrolling text window that looks like this:

Note - use [ ] not { }


```
Monday,25,September,2017,17:37:02:26633
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows Vista x64
VCDS Version: 17.8.0.1 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4401.4
Data version: 20170721 DS276.2
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: TRUZZZ8XXXXXXXX   License Plate: -NA-
Mileage: 84800km-52692mi   Repair Order:

Chassis Type: 8J (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 14 15 16 17 19 22 25 26 37 42 44 46 47 4C 52 55 56 77

VIN: TRUZZZ8J071020399   Mileage: 84800km-52692miles

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
14-Susp. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
22-AWD -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
26-Auto Roof -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: Malfunction 1010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: Malfunction 0010
4C-Tire Pressure II -- Status: Malfunction 0010
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 1010
77-Telephone -- Status: Malfunction 0010

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine        Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
   Part No SW: 022 906 032 HJ    HW: 022 906 032 GP
   Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G   0672  
   Revision: --H02---    Serial number: AUX7Z0FNFNO025
   Coding: 0000178
   Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
   VCID: 5AEC62511019F94775E-800E

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0000
```


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the continued help on this - I hope I'm doing this right:


```
OBDeleven vehicle history log
Date: 2021-05-30 19:01:40

	VIN: TRUZZZ8JXXXXXXXXX
	Car:  
	Year: 2009
	Body type: Coupe
	Engine: CDLB 200 kW (272 hp) 2.0l
	Mileage: 178390 km

---------------------------------------------------------------
Full scan
	Control Units: 18
	Fault count: 16
	Control Units:
		01 Engine
		System description: 00
		Software number: 8J0907115Q
		Software version: 0010
		Hardware number: 8J0907115

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		03 Brakes
		System description: ESP MK60E1
		Software number: 8J0614517A
		Software version: 0010
		Hardware number: 8J0614517A

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		08 Air Conditioning
		System description: J255  Klima 1 Zone
		Software number: 8J0820043AG
		Software version: 0080
		Hardware number: 8J0820043AG

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		09 Central Electrics
		System description: Bordnetz-SG     H54
		Software number: 8P0907279N
		Software version: 2801
		Hardware number: 8P0907279N
		Hardware version: 063

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		16 Steering Column
		System description: J0527           H36
		Software number: 8P0953549F
		Software version: 0070
		Hardware number: 8P0953549F

		Faults:
				01304 - Radio
				Intermittent
				00883 - Ignition/starter switch (terminal S)
				Intermittent

		15 Airbag
		System description: -t Airbag 9.43  H02
		Software number: 8J0959655
		Software version: 0020
		Hardware number: 8J0959655

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		14 Wheel Dampening
		System description: J250 Raddaempfung
		Software number: 8J0910376B
		Software version: 0050
		Hardware number: 8J0907376B  *

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static
				01316 - Brake control module
				static

		19 Gateway
		System description: J533__Gateway   H16
		Software number: 1K0907530Q
		Software version: 0202
		Hardware number: 1K0907951

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static
				01300 - Navigation System with CD Drive Control Module
				static
				01304 - Radio
				Intermittent

		42 Driver Door
		System description: Tuer-SG         H02
		Software number: 8J8959801D
		Software version: 0060
		Hardware number: 8J8959801D

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		17 Dashboard
		System description: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H13
		Software number: 8J0920980A
		Software version: 0320
		Hardware number: 8J0920980A
		Hardware version: 

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		25 Immobilizer
		System description: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H13
		Software number: 8J0920980A
		Software version: 0320
		Hardware number: 8J0920980A
		Hardware version: 

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		22 All Wheel Drive
		System description: Haldex 4Motion
		Software number: 0BR907554A
		Software version: 3016
		Hardware number: 0BR907554A

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		46 Comfort System
		System description: KSG          H11
		Software number: 8J0959433B
		Software version: 0080

		Faults:
				00849 - S-contact at ignition starter switch
				Intermittent

		44 Steering Assistance
		System description: EPS_ZFLS Kl.167 H08
		Software number: 8J2909143C
		Software version: 1903

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		47 Sound System
		System description: J525 Amp High   H04
		Software number: 8J0035223D
		Software version: 0150
		Hardware number: 8J0035223D

		Faults:
				16349 - Control module
				Intermittent
				00830 - Convertible top control module
				static

		52 Passenger Door
		System description: Tuer-SG         H02
		Software number: 8J8959802D
		Software version: 0060
		Hardware number: 8J8959802D

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found

		55 Headlight Regulation
		System description: Dynamische LWR  H02
		Software number: 8P0907357H
		Software version: 0010

		Faults:
				01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
				static

		77 Telephone
		System description: FSE_256x BT     H34
		Software number: 8P0862335N
		Software version: 0520
		Hardware number: 8P0862335N

		Faults:
			No trouble codes found
```
The only thing I've dicsconnected recently was the old battery when I fitted a new one, but this was prompted by the errors described here - the car hasn't been driven since. The battery was supplied "charged" and so was fitted without me charging it first. I believe it was at or over 12v


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Even a new battery is unlikely to be fully charged, always recommended to charge it for a good 12 hours, more if poss.
Hoggy.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Even a new battery is unlikely to be fully charged, always recommended to charge it for a good 12 hours, more if poss.
> Hoggy.


I'll remove it today and give it a charge... wouldn't it be great if it just fixed everything!


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Didn't get to the car today, but the battery has been on charge and is ready to go back in (it was pretty much fully charged already)

BUT having had a read on various non-TT Audi pages, I found a similar situation to mine on an A4 albeit with no mention of any error messages on the dash. 
What caught my attention initially was the fact the rad fans would run without the engine having been switched on, which is something I'd noted in my TTS. It transpired that the ECU/ECM Power Supply Relay in that instance was corroded and that renewing it resolved the problem.... seems like a cheap thing to try! 
...except I can't find any reference to the location of the relay in the TT!! The A4 has it mounted under the ECU, but having pulled mine out already (still attached to the cables) I'm preeeetty sure there's nothing there.

I'm going to check up under the steering column tomorrow, but i don;t know what number relay I'm trying to find.
Does anyone have any idea on the location of the ECU/ECM Power Supply Relay and number stamped on the top of it please?!


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

chrisTTian said:


> I'm going to check up under the steering column tomorrow, but i don;t know what number relay I'm trying to find.
> Does anyone have any idea on the location of the ECU/ECM Power Supply Relay and number stamped on the top of it please?!


There is a relay carrier located below your instrument panel underneath your Electrical System Control Module J519. You will need to remove the panel under your light switch to gain access. 
Relay #4 is the power supply relay. (for counting purposes relay #5 is closest to the door counting down toward the center of your car)


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

FNChaos said:


> chrisTTian said:
> 
> 
> > I'm going to check up under the steering column tomorrow, but i don;t know what number relay I'm trying to find.
> ...


Am I correct that it's the 643 relay in the pic? It's a RHD drive car so I think #5 is _furthest_ the door for here...

Yesterday I tried the ignition and got the same ESP ERROR and BRAKE ERROR with just cranking and no start. 
I then tried 'wobbling/seating' all the relays pictured and I don't know if by coincidence or what, but when I turned the ignition next I had NO errors and the car fired up!... but then almost immediately shut down and lit up the BRAKE ERROR again...

I tried temporarily replacing the 643 relay with a brand new '12v (40A) switched relay with diode' (as that is how I understood the circuit diagram on the Audi relay) but no joy.
Is the relay a standard 4-pin-switched/diode relay or am I wasting my trying to find another to try? I think I might test the 643 in another application where I now the switched/diode is required.

FYI I re-fitted the brand new, freshly charged battery


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

chrisTTian said:


> Am I correct that it's the 643 relay in the pic? It's a RHD drive car so I think #5 is _furthest_ the door for here...


Yes, you are correct. If you reference the carrier position by the tabs labeled "D/C" & B/A" relay 643 would be in position 4.











> I tried temporarily replacing the 643 relay with a brand new '12v (40A) switched relay with diode' (as that is how I understood the circuit diagram on the Audi relay) but no joy.
> Is the relay a standard 4-pin-switched/diode relay or am I wasting my trying to find another to try? I think I might test the 643 in another application where I now the switched/diode is required.


Relay 643 is a general purpose relay, so any 12v relay with the same pin-out should work for test purposes.

Just for reference sake, a relay is nothing more than an electro-mechanical switch. It is used to turn something on or off. Nothing fancy, no voltage regulation, signal processing, amplification, etc. It either works or it doesn't.

A relay contains a small coil of wire that becomes an electro-magnet when current is applied to it. This *electro*-magnet pulls on a *mechanical* lever, and as the lever moves it can either connect a set of contacts, disconnect a set of contacts or both.

Relays are primarily used to allow one circuit to control another while keeping each circuit independent. Relays do not need a diode to work and will function just fine without them. The reason a diode is commonly added is to prevent a reverse EMF pulse (caused by the collapsing magnetic field when a electro-magnet is switched on / off) from feeding back into a circuit (think 'spike' protection)

Relays can easily be checked out of the circuit by measuring across the contact points with an ohm meter. 
Contacts labeled "NO" (normally open) will measure infinite when the relay is not energized and contacts label "NC" (normally closed) will measure 0 ohms as they are shorted together.

Applying power to the coil of the relay will reverse the state of the contacts. If a diode is added to the coil, the coil is polarized (meaning power can only be applied one way) Look for +/- symbols on the relay case.
Measuring across the coil should read a couple 100 ohms (depends on the amount of windings) In any case, you shouldn't read an open or short.

If you've tried another relay (or tested yours and verified that it is good) then you can assume that your problem lies somewhere else. It is possible that the signal that controls the relay is defective so you might check to see if power is being applied to the relay coil at start-up. Hopefully you'll find a damaged wire or corroded connection, otherwise it is starting to look like your ECU is the culprit.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

This was my thought too - I've read on this forum of someone having found green/corroded pins on the ECU (great location under the scuttle! :roll: ) 
I'd tried to remove the ECU cage to check but just can't get it off! I've convinced myself this is the culprit; unfortunatley the person that posted then found his ECU was dead... I'm keeping my hopes up given that the car very occasionally starts.

Any tips as to removing the ECU/ECM cage? I've read a heat gun will soften the thread lock??


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

chrisTTian said:


> Any tips as to removing the ECU/ECM cage? I've read a heat gun will soften the thread lock??


I'm not sure exactly how the ECU cage is secured but heat is exactly the way threadlocker is designed to be removed. So, if it's threadlocked with "permanent strength" threadlock then yeah heat is the way you would get them loose. Even a small pocket butane torch would do the job presuming you're not going to catch something on fire lol.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

OMG! You need Induction Heating Gun that can directly heatup the bolt red hot without heating the ECU. Too much heat will overheat and harden thermal paste like a rock. The ECU is sealed and waterproof.

The ECU and ABS shares the same ground wire.

When either Coolant Temp & AC Refrigerant Pressure can't be detected, FAILSAFE MODE will be activated. Cooling fan will run @ max. Try disconnecting the headlight switch, headlight will turn on with the ignition switch.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Here is an interesting (but a bit long) video demonstrating corrosion damage between an ECU and it's associated connector. 





I say 'interesting' because the damage wasn't caused by the usual suspect, that being water trapped due to clogged plenum drain ports. Instead, fluid 'wicked-up' against gravity (capillary action) through a sensor cable coming from the gearbox and into the ECU plug.

Once you get your ECU free, be sure to inspect the connector closely (maybe with a magnifying glass) to ensure no pins are missing.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the further input 

The cage is off and the plug looks practically new, the ECU & ABS ground/earth stud below the fuses again is very clean and without corrosion.
I've seen that video before and had forgotten about it, but like I said, the pins on the plug look like new. I'll still be unwinding the tape and inspecting the loom for any damage - I'd read somewhere they can burn out about 10inches from the ECU!

I trailered the car to a VAG garage locally, but the result was a disappointing 'we think it's the ECU/£££' but no further in depth diagnosis or solution. 
I've been in touch with an ECU repair company who told me they can't decode my particular model of ECU (TTS 8J0 907 115 Q) and therefore can't test or help me. I also contacted Bosch in Germany who told me they won't deal direct with the public.
After calling one of their agents here in UK, I was advised that the ECU won't be possible to repair, despite Bosch telling me the contrary!

Does anyone have any recommendations for ECU repairers in the UK who can test a TTS 8J0907115Q ECU please?
I'm 'this' far from taking it to Audi


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

chrisTTian said:


> Quick top up with Castrol Edge 5W30 and, weirdly, the error codes vanished one by one by turning the key to the first position. The radiator fan no longer switched on either.
> I replaced the oil cap and dipstick to attempt a start, swtiched on the ignition and the errors returned!
> Took the caps off and the errors went off... :?
> Whilst they were, I turned the key to the first position and the errors stayed off so I replaced them and cranked and the engine started!!
> ...


Just re-read this from the start. The fact that the engine won't run with the oil filler cap on but runs without it suggests something wrong with crankcase pressure. As the pressure builds up to a certain point the engine uns but then cuts out. If you google this symptom there are similar issues on other forums (other cars) with suggestions like PCV problems - and worse! (e.g. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... &t=1651650)

Good luck
jez


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Jezzie said:


> Just re-read this from the start. The fact that the engine won't run with the oil filler cap on but runs without it suggests something wrong with crankcase pressure. As the pressure builds up to a certain point the engine uns but then cuts out. If you google this symptom there are similar issues on other forums (other cars) with suggestions like PCV problems - and worse! (e.g. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... &t=1651650)
> 
> Good luck
> jez


What? It simply means the *CATALYTIC CONVERTER is CLOGGED... * Try removing the oil filler cap while the engine is at idle.


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

Interesting - I'd almost forgotten about the oil cap it's been so long! Will try when I'm back with the car at the weekend.
If this is the case, I'll have to take the cap off before starting as the fault means most of the time it won't fire up!

How could these link to the errors though? _*Engine control module (ECM)* No signal/communication_ errors with _Fault code 01314_ and _ESP fault!_, _Brake fault!_

I noticed in that link they had a solid brake pedal - it's not something I'd looked for so will do that too...


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## chrisTTian (Oct 18, 2009)

...OK, I've been over to the car but didn't test the the oil cap thing as I didn't have the ECU with me  but the errors come up regardless (I guess they're stored elsewhere)
I also unravelled the looms that plug into the ECU to check for any obvious damage, of which there was none...


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## Matt12345 (7 mo ago)

Hi, bit of a long shot but did you ever find the problem??


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