# Car prep??



## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Ok i would like to know the best way to wash, wax, polish the car. I hear peeps saying you need to prep the car first before doing anything but whats that all about?? I wash the car, dry the car then wax the car?? I think it looks good when its all done but how should i do it?? A while ago i bought Prima Amigo which is meant to be a good make in prepping the car ready for wax i use dodo juice blue velvet to wax. So do i need to wash, dry, prep, polish,wax?? What makes of prep and polish do peeps use?? I know Amit does a good old clean on his cars and they look great. Cheers, oh the car is black just incase.


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

search it you lazy sod :roll:


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Done that didnt find anything useful. I use the search function a lot but if we use it all the time no one would ever post anything as whatever you are trying to find out is bound be said before.


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

Have a read here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php for some info.


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## amiTT (Jul 24, 2007)

ian222 said:


> I know Amit does a good old clean on his cars and they look great.


Cleaning cars? I know nothing about that :roll:

Preparation is the key to a good finish. I use a number of products to prep my paintwork on a black car...

1. Clay - Megs Smooth Surface Kit - really easy to use for a first time user, just lubricate loads and things really shouldn't go wrong.

And then...

For hand detailing:
1. Meguairs "Stage 1" of their Deep Crystal range which is a paint cleaner (you will need to polish after this)

For machine detailling:
1. Mequairs 83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish (no need to polish after this, just straight wax)

There are many other products out there, and probably better ones than what I use, but I have gained excellent results using these and therefore would reccomend them to use


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

by hand,

wash
clay
wash and dry
cleaner fluid - dodo lime prime and swissvax I have used and are ace
polish
could glaze here for that extra bling
wax to protect

like the guy said, the megs 3 stage is sold in halfrauds if you want to give that a go.

If like me you have a silver car, then its a big waste of effort :roll:

Si


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Thanks guys will look into it.

Amit So when you apply the cleaner does that take all old wax off the car so you then start back at the beginning? Then you polish it, then wax it? So i can use that cleaner you mentioned then a polish like poorboys polish then i can apply my dodo juice wax? All this after washing and claying?


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

ian222 said:


> Thanks guys will look into it.
> 
> Amit So when you apply the cleaner does that take all old wax off the car so you then start back at the beginning? Then you polish it, then wax it? So i can use that cleaner you mentioned then a polish like poorboys polish then i can apply my dodo juice wax? All this after washing and claying?


Yes. Make sure you re-wash after claying too.

If you have lots of swirls/ fine scratches, you may need something more abrasive than the Megs paint cleaner and polish to get the paint looking 8) Something like Poorboys SSR2.

Also, although it recieves mixed press, Autoglym super resin polish has excellent 'filling' properties to hide any light swirls you have not managed to remove. I prefer this to the Megs polish.


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Sorry about this. so do i use the ssr2 instead of the cleaner or the polish?? Or with that lot?


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## amiTT (Jul 24, 2007)

Hey Ian,

the Clay will remove most wax/contaminants from the paint, the cleaner will remove the final bits...

Megs 83 is a great product as its dual action, saves a lot of time, especially when machining!


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

ian222 said:


> Sorry about this. so do i use the ssr2 instead of the cleaner or the polish?? Or with that lot?


It depends how many stages you can be bothered with. Ideally use clay, then cleaner (to rid the paint of all contaminants). Then use SSR2 (or similar) to remove swirls and scratches if you need to, then polish to make it gleam & polish out/hide any final marks. Finally wax to protect it.

If you 'think' of the SSR2 as a more abrasive/agressive polish & 'normal' polish like megs, autoglym as a less abrasive/aggressive one it makes things a little clearer. If the car is not really swirly, then just use regular polish. If its in a bad way, you may need the more abrasive SSR2.

Are you doing this by hand out of interest?


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

amiTT said:


> Megs 83 is a great product as its dual action, saves a lot of time, especially when machining!


Here you go Ian http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/meguiars- ... 3-946m.php

I have not tried it, but it sounds like it might save some time as it contains abrasive & polish.


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Yes Tim by hand, ok so i dont really have many swirls on the car not bad ones prob the norm and that product would defo save time. I must admit i do get bored quickly if i have to go round the car many times. So after the clay and wash down i could use that as a duel purpose clean and polish then wax it up. Thanks might give that a go.


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

ian,
if I didnt intend to machine polish, I wouldnt touch the paintwork with clay. It does exactly what it says it does, but regardless of what some may say, it is very easy to inflict marks into the finish IMO.

Si


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

Really, i lot of people swear by claying?? Why would i have to use a machine to polish then?


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

Dont get me wrong, claying (pro`s have used it for years)is the future if done correctly  
The clay lifts contam from your paint. This contam sits in the clay, you drag the clay over your paint finish. Should you not have a clean face of clay then any contam in the face of the clay "could" leave very fine scratches. Should this happen they are very easy to remove by machine polishing, difficult by hand.
Some clays are softer than others. 
Have a look at jiab clay guide.
Just a thought mate. 
Try one panel first before you do the whole car.

Si

off to watch the north east derby for a laugh now


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## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

Claying - just do it. Follow this (you don't even need the search button!)

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=115871

Contrary to popular belief/myth claying will not remove old wax/sealants...you don't need to grind away at the paint for hours on end. To remove old waxes etc you need a paint cleaner - either abrasive or chemical. Abrasive versions abound...the Megs stuff mentioned earlier for example. Invariably hard graft by hand.
Chemicalversion - try Klasse-all-in-One. Pretty much wipe on/wait/and wipe off...well a little bit of rubbing, but it's not difficult.

Leaves a sealant layer on the paint that's pretty durable and can be topped off with a coat or two of wax after leaving the Klasse to cure for a day or so. Chuck a couple of coats of your DoDo whatever on top and you'll have a pretty effortless finish.

Klassse from www.motorgeek.co.uk (might be .com) - good seller and recommended.

If you shop with him forget the Meguiars clay - grossly overated and not that good IMO. Motorgeek sells DP Clay - really good stuff; mild enough not to mar the paint, needs no special lubricant and use whatever you wash the car with shampoo and water. Easy!

Disjointed and garbled? Sorry,knackered... :wink:

Dave


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