# *New update DQ250 gears blowing up- Currently around 850whp * 900whp Big Turbo Audi TT 2.0tfsi quattro G35-1050



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

First of all I would like to say that this forum has been of huge help in so many aesthetic mods I have done to my TT. This is the story of a man buying a TT and having a dream. Hope you guys enjoy.

So it all started out before the first COVID-19 lock down here in Greece in March 2020 when I bought just a basic 2008 2.0tfsi BWA engine DSG FWD Audi TT 8j that looked like this:









Right away I got the wheels painted satin black and the front and rear bumpers to a TT RS look-alike front and a genuine TTS rear:

















Next step of the journey was the EBAY Polish rear spoiler. It was OK but nothing great to boast about. It wasnt worth the hustle and the money since the polyester is of low quality thus starting to "wave" after a while and deform. Installed a set of TTRS look black exhaust tips as well as some black badges.

















Summer came and I started doing some more work on the car removing the FWD DSG and getting a full 4WD swap from an AUDI TTS and a 76cm VBAND full exhaust.









Removed the front plate from the grill and added a quattro badge on there:









Thank god that the TT is one of the few chasis that doesnt need modifications except a set of mounts to make the conversion happen. Initially I had a modded R32 fuel tank put by a very unproffeshional shop I was working with and soon after found a briliant one that was very knownledgable and carried on with this project. Changed that crappy, moddified. leaky R32 tank with a TT 3.2 one.

It was time to renovate the interior a bit making an Audi TT 8S pattern on the OEM seat of the 8j and installing 8V air vents with red blades, painting the middle console piano black and adding an Aliexpress multimedia sound system to go with the BOSE that was on the basic package of the car.

































*See the rest on the next post bellow*
🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽🔽


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Wow, impressive stuff. What engine is that you have put in?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Flashy said:


> Wow, impressive stuff. What engine is that you have put in?


Thanks man, its the 2.0TFSI BWA model since it was the highest strength with its steel crank bearing seats but with extensive modifications done to it such as a 290CFM head with +2 intake +1 exhaust valves , stage 4 cat cams and many more parts in there.
*
Continuing the above thread:*


















At that point I came across with a mint MQB transmission from a Seat Cupra with 50.000 km at a stupid low price and upgraded my transmission that had the Old black box Mechatronic to the newer version.










Finishing up with that "transplant" some parts had landed on my doorstep so I took em to the shop and started getting a new motor ready for the 900whp build.









We got things started and the new engine was ready to get fitted on the car at this point!









Brought the car in and it started taking form:









Then the new Garrett G35 1050 came on the motor:









We where now almost done with after installing a huge front mount Bar N plate intercooler









Engine bay started to look nicer:

























At this point I wasnt so into the front replica TTRS bumper and rear TTS diffuser so I got them changed for an OEM TTRS front and rear and got a carbon rear spoiler to get rid of that crappy Ebay one.

























Got some nice 19 inch wheels fitted for everyday use for the car Corspeed Challenge:









And had a nice "cannon" installed that blasts on command :lol:









At this point the motor was ready to get brocken in and did 1500km. Got it ready for the dyno but due to the lack of a CNC clutch basked and friction plates for the DSG plus 45oC we had on the dyno we managed to get a "summer" tune at this point of 600whp on 2.0bars of boost on stock MQB transmission 100 pump gas fuel + MEth

Car got a nice wash and the story will unfold after this summer. Thank you all for taking time reading this.
Wish you the best! Have a great summer

Regards,
Mike


----------



## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Love this build 8)


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Minor update from the OEM 2.0TFSI BWA side button knob to the Stronic one. Sorry for the dirt but there are some wildfires going around here.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Knight-tts said:


> Love this build 8)


Returning the love [smiley=dude.gif]


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Great build and look forward to seeing your power figures!!!


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Very impressive build!
Looking forward to all the updates within this build thread 8)


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Hey boys! Thanks for the comments . 
Ordered today the Dodson Motorsport Sportsman's Plus clutch kit assembly along with some other goodies.









New Bartek parts:
DQ250 Upgrade Transmission Oil Cooler 








2.0L TFSI EA113 Oil Cooler-Kit








and a bigger RACE Aluminum Watercooler









Need to get the secondary injectors plugged in to the parallel ECU, get a secondary fuel pump assembly and a fuel regulator to get thinks cranking . Thank god I have already mounted things and got the cables already done beforehand since I knew the end goal. Hopefully I ll have everything in hand late August fingers crossed or mid September in the worst case scenario thorw everything in and get some BOOST to wake up the turbo.

had with 45oC dyno temps and a super low ignition timing of about 13.5-14

1.35 bars 430whp with pump 
1.85 bars should be around 500-550whp with pump cant remember to be honest :? 
2.09 bars 600whp with pump + Methanol will post a video when the temps fall a bit

end goal boost is 2.8-3.0 with Race gas and Methanol injection since I personally chose the Garrett turbos for two main reasons. 
a) More cooling/oiling than the precission that have a backstory of burning more oil and b) The precission will provide a better top end power band BUT it needs ALOT of boost. Since the 2.0 motor is prone to cracking over 860-880whp I wanted to stay on the safe side. We will be pushing for 900+ whp. It has been done in several cars here in Greece. I believe that one of the reasons that blocks crack is from too much boost!


----------



## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Theres me happy with my stage 1 remap :lol: :lol: can't Imagine having 600hp let alone 900


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Knight-tts said:


> Theres me happy with my stage 1 remap :lol: :lol: can't Imagine having 600hp let alone 900


Hehe, Im accustomed with speed since I used to drag race motorcycles here. Slall correction its 600whp not 600hp, its on the wheel not motor that would roughly be around 650hp give or take :roll: I will upload a video as soon as the temps fall a bit. Its 40oC here at the moment [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bomb.gif] new parts came in today will up load pictures in a bit! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

New toys came in for the TT [smiley=sweetheart.gif] [smiley=sweetheart.gif] [smiley=sweetheart.gif] 
Need to wait until the end of August to install them though. Cant wait!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I didn't realise there's an upgrade for the DSG oil cooler! I assume it's taller than original to allow more coolant to flow through it?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That's quite a car you have there! You need to bring that beast up north and run it on the Nürburgring. You'll find It's much cooler and the air quality is a marked improvement ;-)

When you get around to installing the cooler upgrade, can you include some DIY pictures so we can see how that's done? That would be a nice addition to the Forum.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nice job! Do you have more details on what was required for the DQ250? Custom adaptor plates? Anything electronics wise?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Sorry for the delay, was on a short trip with the wife. To answer everyones questions:



IPG3.6 said:


> I didn't realise there's an upgrade for the DSG oil cooler! I assume it's taller than original to allow more coolant to flow through it?


The OEM is 10rows and this upgraded one is 20rows for optimal cooling of the gear oil. Basically plug & play mounting on this one. Just check the seals.



SwissJetPilot said:


> That's quite a car you have there! You need to bring that beast up north and run it on the Nürburgring. You'll find It's much cooler and the air quality is a marked improvement ;-)
> 
> When you get around to installing the cooler upgrade, can you include some DIY pictures so we can see how that's done? That would be a nice addition to the Forum.


I ill see that I get some pictures of the installation and mounting that should go on the right lower airvent of the front bumper (LHD car here). Regarding the Nurburgring its not gonna be that circuit oriented since we get full boost around 5500-6000 rpm. Even though the redline hits at 8.800 with a max range of 9.300 it still wont be set for circuit but for drag racing. Should run a nice mid to high 3sec 100-200km on full power.


MT-V6 said:


> Nice job! Do you have more details on what was required for the DQ250? Custom adaptor plates? Anything electronics wise?


You mean the MQB transplant? If so you need to modify a mount and some wiring is needed. I could get some more precise info if you like.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Audittnumb said:


> You mean the MQB transplant? If so you need to modify a mount and some wiring is needed. I could get some more precise info if you like.


Ah didn't realise you swapped the whole engine! I thought you fitted the newer gearbox to the TT engine


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

MT-V6 said:


> Audittnumb said:
> 
> 
> > You mean the MQB transplant? If so you need to modify a mount and some wiring is needed. I could get some more precise info if you like.
> ...


I only did transplant the DQ250 from the MQB engine maybe I wrote it wrong, my bad. Its just the newer transmission from an MQB engine.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Hey guys! Short update! Some new goodies went on the car and gave it a nice colour correction detailing session + new basket/clutch plates are here for more boost!


























After that I had a set of 0.5cm spacer to achieve a more beefier look.I will get some pictures later this week to upload. 

New goodies came in a space box yesterday from Dodson motorsports for the DQ250 to finaly up the boost and timing and reach the 900+whp goal with 3.2bars of boost on the G35-1050 setup























Currently the low timing, 2.09 bars of boost and 600whp tune has been a blast! Have done 5000km on it with no issues and using it as a daily drive most of the time. I believe that its gonna be ready until the end of this week and then its time for a tune!


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Holy crap, some machine. What roughly has it cost you engine wise?


----------



## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Gosh, I wish I had that much to burn throughout the series of lockdowns that we had here in the UK . Unbelievable build, one of the best I've seen round here. 

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Rufflesj said:


> Holy crap, some machine. What roughly has it cost you engine wise?


I have spen around t 22k-25k EUR at this point on just the engine,turbo, transmission upgrades, electronics,boost controller, meth kit .


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

wsantos said:


> Gosh, I wish I had that much to burn throughout the series of lockdowns that we had here in the UK . Unbelievable build, one of the best I've seen round here.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


Well the crazy thing is here in Greece everybody was spending money on cars since they didnt have anything else to do so my business was booming at the lockdowns we got. (I am an exclusive dealer of a very well known US race fuel brand and this is something like a project car/daily to show the potential of the fuels and products) I would say that a 550whp build would be very achievable with a 4-6k pound budget!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Some more pictures after a thorough wash with a nice washing mitt for a Sunday ride with the wife!


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Audittnumb said:


> I have spen around t 22k-25k EUR at this point on just the engine,turbo, transmission upgrades, electronics,boost controller, meth kit .


Holy fork, did you not consider an RS?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Rufflesj said:


> Holy fork, did you not consider an RS?


Next step is a 3.2 VR6 turbo convertion but I am very sceptical since it will be illegal to have it on the road without the proper paper work and that can be a big hustle here in Greece to change. So the initial thought was a daily 800whp pump gas car that would be 100% drivable and legal thus maintening the 2.0 liter engine on it.


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

How many seconds does it take to accelerate from 0-100 km/h?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Wolvez said:


> How many seconds does it take to accelerate from 0-100 km/h?


I have not used a draggy or a Vbox yet since the car isnt fully done. The fully OEM MQB dq250 is capable of handling 600-650whp with a stage 3 tune but the clutch plates and clutch basket cant handle many launches. Lastly the current tune had super low timing (13)

Lastest update: Dodson Clutch basket with plates was installed this Friday and we will now be building the secondary fuel support system including 4x injectors , 1 small fuel tank , 1 fuel pump, 1 fuel filter to calibrate the fuel pressure and new fuel lines. I believe that we will be able to finish with the tune this week and see some good numbers!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

_Νew update_

So the new fuel lines went through today for the 4 extra injectors, got the fuel pump placement to get the OEM plastic to snap on with no fitment issues. I had to remove the rear right First aid kit and removable box compartment that it was housed in to make the secondary pumps tank fit. So basically the Upgraded rear huge fuel pump will return fuel in the silver canister that will send fuel to the extra injectors and then the extra fuel will return in the OEM fuel tank . Im getting a 3bar fuel filter on the fuel rail to regulate fuel properly without using an after market fuel regulator.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Audittnumb said:


> _Νew update_
> 
> So the new fuel lines went through today for the 4 extra injectors, got the fuel pump placement to get the OEM plastic to snap on with no fitment issues. I had to remove the rear right First aid kit and removable box compartment that it was housed in to make the secondary pumps tank fit. So basically the Upgraded rear huge fuel pump will return fuel in the silver canister that will send fuel to the extra injectors and then the extra fuel will return in the OEM fuel tank . Im getting a 3bar fuel filter on the fuel rail to regulate fuel properly without using an after market fuel regulator.
> 
> View attachment 477647


great post! i love these kinds of details


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> great post! i love these kinds of details


Hey! thanks more to come soon! Got it properly set up and pretty much gave it an OEM look. Will get a carper and a rear strut to delete the rear seats to complete the more aggresive look!
Will try uploading a picture of the progress today.


----------



## zakiro (Apr 7, 2020)

great topic love this project!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

So a small update after tiding up the rear and front external pump assembly:












Cant wait for the SternPerformance rear carbon strut and carpet to show up to cover the ugly fuel lines and pump!
Gost some pictures of the front fuel rail and fuel lines aswell that are covered with heat protection to avoid any fuel overheat or cable melting in the worst case scenario:






























The car is now 100% ready to get the final tune to reach the 900whp goal. Unfortunately our ECU programmer had an issue with electricity last week from a local thunderstorm and its still being fixed so its a minor setback for now. Hopefully we will be getting the car tuned next week!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Fire sleeve - one of the most important parts of big builds like this that a lot of people tend to miss. Love it.

What a handful this is going to be. I'm assuming drag strip focussed build?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> Fire sleeve - one of the most important parts of big builds like this that a lot of people tend to miss. Love it.
> 
> What a handful this is going to be. I'm assuming drag strip focussed build?


I couldnt agree more on the fire sleeve !
I will run it once or twice on the drag track but at these levels of power im a bit scared for several parts such as the rear diff, transmission case and transmission gears as well as the mid shaft.
The circuit track that I could run it is 7hours away so I wouldnt consider even going there plus with a power band from 5500-8500 I doubt it would be very efficient. I want to call this a recreational build or an anxiety relief mechanism since I roll out of the house, meet with friends, go for a ride, floor it when the road is clear and back home.


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Investing in a fire suppression system would be a good idea. #justsaying


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Delta4 said:


> Investing in a fire suppression system would be a good idea. #justsaying


It is in the near future plans. Got one 1L fire extinguisher under the passenger seat and a 2L in the boot for now!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Got a date for the final tune at Friday fingers crossed!🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞


----------



## ryanbarbour (Oct 27, 2021)

This is a great thread and so interesting! Keep up the great build and look forward to seeing some figures of runs.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

ryanbarbour said:


> This is a great thread and so interesting! Keep up the great build and look forward to seeing some figures of runs.


Cant wait for tomorrow ! We will get the final numbers in.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Quick update: After uping the power giving some ignition at around 15.8 we managed to reach 690+whp with just low boost and plain fuel pump but we are having some issues making the Transmission "listen" to the required pressure we want so we dont destroy the clutch basket and clutch plates. We are recieving lower pressure than requested and its not adapting to the flashes. Need to do some checks on Monday and check if a) The Bartek higher transmission cooler is dropping the pressure for some reason b) The transmission oil pump is not working properly c) The mechatronic unit isnt cooperating

In the worst case scenario the Mechatronic is busted and need to get a new one. Monday will reveal the culprit. Engine seems to be great at this point.


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Audittnumb said:


> Quick update: After uping the power giving some ignition at around 15.8 we managed to reach 690+whp with just low boost and plain fuel pump but we are having some issues making the Transmission "listen" to the required pressure we want so we dont destroy the clutch basket and clutch plates. We are recieving lower pressure than requested and its not adapting to the flashes. Need to do some checks on Monday and check if a) The Bartek higher transmission cooler is dropping the pressure for some reason b) The transmission oil pump is not working properly c) The mechatronic unit isnt cooperating
> 
> In the worst case scenario the Mechatronic is busted and need to get a new one. Monday will reveal the culprit. Engine seems to be great at this point.
> 
> ...



Still massively impressive what you've managed so far
Very interested to see once you've found the issue with the gearbox and can send it harder!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Barr_end said:


> Still massively impressive what you've managed so far
> Very interested to see once you've found the issue with the gearbox and can send it harder!


So after having nightmares of what might be the issue that was refussing to increase and deliver the requested oil psi for the transmission we found out that the OEM VW/Audi top transmission filter the one that is located inside the plastic cover had randomly failed and it was restricting the oil flow. Changed the filter and the transmission fluids with OEM VW/AUDI oil. Have you guys seen anything similar? Audi said that is a very rare thing to happen as they have seen it only twice. Reinstalling the BARTEK transmission cooler after the tune is finished to avoid any chance of mulfuction, but I doubt that there will be any since we found the culprit.

*Current numbers**: *so far are *699whp* and 8200rpm redline with pump gas + Meth and medium timing/ignition 15.8
Next file was going to be the final file with 16.5+ timing/ignition and 600more RPM and increased transmission oi pressure.

The car got from 7500-8000 rpm a power increase of almost 100whp so I guess after increasing the timing/ignition and reaching 8.800 rpm (car reach 9.300 if needed but we are avoiding for safety reasons) we will see another +-80whp on regular pump gas.

Next steps to follow are fuel octane+power increase additive in regular pump gas and then make a final file with race fuel.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

New tune date is Monday 15/11/21 🤞 🤞 🤞


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

*Quick update:*

Even though after changing oil in the transmission it seemed to work as it should today at the dyno again there wasnt enough pressure given when requested but the ECU. Gotta check if the bad oil filter has left or clogged any holes in the transmission and then its time to take it apart to check the inner filter.


----------



## Tom Tim Smith (Oct 3, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> Quick update:
> 
> Even though after changing oil in the transmission it seemed to work as it should today at the dyno again there wasnt enough pressure given when requested but the ECU. Gotta check if the bad oil filter has left or clogged any holes in the transmission and then its time to take it apart to check the inner filter.


if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Tom Tim Smith said:


> if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard


What a load of shite 
Even in F not C it would not be close to 100 degrees.
We are talking a turbo car - you're about to throw it the air through a red hot turbo - ambient temperature of the engine bay on the filter makes 0 difference.

On my car... TTS, still with a stock KO4 turbo/engine internals & injectors but tuned to 380hp / 410ftlbs - open filter vs stock airbox. My IAT temps are THE EXACT SAME!
But the filter flows are the stock airbox is restrictive. Again something that has been proven - past a certain tuning prospective, the stock airbox is restrcitive.

Let alone when we are talking at the levels of the car in this thread, not a standard car so your point is even more meaningless
Turbo cars - More air > Cold air. Proven repeatedly


----------



## TTRSgeek (Jun 25, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> What a load of shite
> 
> 
> "On my car... TTS, still with a stock KO4 turbo/engine internals & injectors but tuned to 380hp / 410ftlbs - open filter vs stock airbox. My IAT temps are THE EXACT SAME!"
> ...


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Tom Tim Smith said:


> if as appears in the photos the air intake is receiving air from INSIDE the engine compartment then the air will be 100 degrees hotter than it should be negating the intercooler, that could lose 5-15 BHP on a standard car , maybe much more on this! convert it to a system that takes air direct from the front outside the car , all audis have cold air intakes as standard


I do have hoses running towards the air intake no worries. At this point the air gap that the OEM TT provides is like blowing a fire with your mouth to extinguish it haha. After I am done with the tune I will be thinking of doing a "headlight" duct intake meaning drilling the headlight and installing a tunnel that will guide fresh cold air directly to the intake filter.

What Barr_end said though is correct More air>Cold air in these applications. Your are making a valid point though TTRSgeek


----------



## Tom Tim Smith (Oct 3, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> What a load of shite
> Even in F not C it would not be close to 100 degrees.
> We are talking a turbo car - you're about to throw it the air through a red hot turbo - ambient temperature of the engine bay on the filter makes 0 difference.
> 
> ...


clearly your knowledge of thermodynamics is a long way short of whats needed to be an authority on turbo technology and gas flow , if you want to pump air into the turbo that's up to 100 degrees hotter than it needs to be you are free to do so , sourcing the input air in the engine compartment means much hotter air is entering the system than needs to be , that may get even hotter in the turbo leaving the intercooler unable to work optimally , a car producing this level of power will produce even more heat than standard , if you have a red hot turbo( which is water cooled?) then your problems go beyond inatake air temperature and fuel efficiency go ahead waste money lose power see if I care


----------



## TTRSgeek (Jun 25, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> I do have hoses running towards the air intake no worries. At this point the air gap that the OEM TT provides is like blowing a fire with your mouth to extinguish it haha. After I am done with the tune I will be thinking of doing a "headlight" duct intake meaning drilling the headlight and installing a tunnel that will guide fresh cold air directly to the intake filter.
> 
> What Barr_end said though is correct More air>Cold air in these applications. Your are making a valid point though TTRSgeek


That would be an addition I think you'd benefit from. Attached some pics of the Ram Air hose installation..it will work on any lower air box, but obviously better on a closed system (like a The Tuner air box cover). The pic of the driver's side air channel shows a round drawing where I cut it open for the air hose. The kit is available from Hperformance in Germany and works quite well. Cheers!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

TTRSgeek said:


> ☠That would be an addition I think you'd benefit from. Attached some pics of the Ram Air hose installation..it will work on any lower air box, but obviously better on a closed system (like a The Tuner air box cover). The pic of the driver's side air channel shows a round drawing where I cut it open for the air hose. The kit is available from Hperformance in Germany and works quite well. Cheers!


Already have this ! Next step is drilling the headlight ☠☠☠


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Tom Tim Smith said:


> clearly your knowledge of thermodynamics is a long way short of whats needed to be an authority on turbo technology and gas flow , if you want to pump air into the turbo that's up to 100 degrees hotter than it needs to be you are free to do so , sourcing the input air in the engine compartment means much hotter air is entering the system than needs to be , that may get even hotter in the turbo leaving the intercooler unable to work optimally , a car producing this level of power will produce even more heat than standard , if you have a red hot turbo( which is water cooled?) then your problems go beyond inatake air temperature and fuel efficiency go ahead waste money lose power see if I care


If you could read the reply you're trying to pick apart it would be massively helpful - none of your reply applies to the situation I have typed out & you had to try take the only part you did read, literally.

I'm not going to waste my time structuring a proper response, really isn't worth my time.
This has 0 to do with knowledge, my statement is backed up with fact from testing.
Stock enclosed box vs open filter - both intake air temps are EXACTLY THE SAME!
Cruising at a speed of anything over 40mph - these temps are 2C BELOW ambient with EGT temps of 600C + dependant on speed & load.
That's before the meth kicks in.
I am more than happy in the know this is decent and nothing like the ramble you're posting.

As said, proven, tested, FACT.
Not an over inflated ego that feels the need to spam & try to belittle within an owners thread with a pretty incredible build.



TTRSgeek said:


> Good point for the TTS airbox configuration, nice build, congratulations. I do have a caveat though, My car, 2012 TTRS has a different airbox, it has an air duct opening on the side of the airbox that admits additional air in the form of heated engine compartment air. I live in Florida, very hot. I was concerned about the 140-160 degree IATs. Typical IATs at 120 kmh cruising were about 136-142 degrees. Added a larger intercooler, dropped IATs by about 10 degrees. Cut off the air duct opening and added a ram air tube that admits ambient air from a venturi located in the drivers side lower air duct. This addition lowered IAT by another 10-15 degrees, it works so well that as I accelerate from 120 kmh I can watch the IAT drop, in one instance from 126 degrees to 118 degrees by the time I reached 150 kmh. You can watch the IAT drop in real time on acceleration due to the ram air effect.
> 
> So, I'm pretty sure that if you added the same type of ram air kit to a TTS airbox you would experience the same thing? I use a 034 closed top system, with an open system you're stuck with heated engine compartment air.
> 
> @ Audittnumb, great build and great thread, ty!


Didn't see this as it was buried into my own quote so I copied it out.
You are spot on, TTS box is decent and fine for 2L TFSI stage 2 power levels with no restrictions, but on the higher side of stage 2+ over 350hp / 365ftlbs ISH they become a bottle neck.
Where as I have seen that the RS box isn't a noticable enough restriction at stage 2 on the 2.5!

Interesting you measured a nice noticeable different! I as the OP is - also already run a tube aimed at the filter.
It is a very good point that these make a difference and with your testing really showing it's worth.
I might try do some more testing with this removed from the open filter and connect to the TTS box, but there isn't an opening like the RS box has to do so... So modifications are needed!

I myself am going to now stop spamming TTNumbs thread though and let him carry on sharing his mega build


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Barr_end said:


> I myself am going to now stop spamming TTNumbs thread though and let him carry on sharing his mega build


Spam all you want I like a little drama in my life and threads 😂😂🤣hahaahah plus I find real life testing more helpfull than theoretical physics.

*UPDATE:*
Changed the Mecatronic unit, seems that the problem is fixed.
Hopefully new tune date is due on the 18/11/21🤞🤞🤞


----------



## TTRSgeek (Jun 25, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> Already have this ! Next step is drilling the headlight ☠☠☠


First, great to hear that changing the Mechatronic unit fixed your issues, great diagnostics. I really don't understand 'drilling the headlight', the air hose from the HPerformance kit fits perfectly behind the headlamp ass'y, which as you know is easily removed by removing the top center screw and loosening the other two. Keep the dirty side down mate!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Audittnumb said:


> Spam all you want I like a little drama in my life and threads 😂😂🤣hahaahah plus I find real life testing more helpfull than theoretical physics.
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> Changed the Mecatronic unit, seems that the problem is fixed.
> Hopefully new tune date is due on the 18/11/21🤞🤞🤞





TTRSgeek said:


> First, great to hear that changing the Mechatronic unit fixed your issues, great diagnostics. I really don't understand 'drilling the headlight', the air hose from the HPerformance kit fits perfectly behind the headlamp ass'y, which as you know is easily removed by removing the top center screw and loosening the other two. Keep the dirty side down mate!


I want it to look meaner and badass. Not sure Im doing it, just thinking about it. Ill upload some pics from the hose setup I have now in the coming days.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

*Interior aesthetic update:*
So while waiting for a tune date this showed up! Loving it, very easy to install if you have the rear seats removed, purely aesthetic mod since it just clamps in the rear two cover trunk backets.
Full carbon strut bar, with custom net stiching in red and a full carpet with also custom red stitching from Stern Performance.
If you can see the small height difference on the passenger side its because under there are the secondary pump and fuel lines so it bulges out a bit messing up the clean look but otherwise its kinda hard to notice.


----------



## TTRSgeek (Jun 25, 2021)

That looks great, compliments the rear seat delete. And, keeps those groceries off your shifter lever...


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

TTRSgeek said:


> And, keeps those groceries off your shifter lever...


My first though exactly! 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

If you are going to stick with the DQ250 I would get a stage 3 map from TVS. They are just about the best people in mapping DSG gearboxes. To get a DQ250 gearbox to create 18-19 bar clamp pressure thatf may get you somewhere near to 750Nm torque handling requires more than just altering the maps in the stock DQ250 gearbox map. TVS has rewritten parts of the code to remove limiters and alter the way the gearbox works, altering the way the oil cooling works and how the gearbox protection strategy operates. I have a stage 3 map on my MK1 TT that I converted to a DSG with a 2012 TTS gearbox.




With the targets you have in mind 900 whp would be something like 1050bhp at the crank. You need a DQ500 gearbox. People have used the DQ250 gearbox in very high powered drag cars but usually they have removed the standard mechatronic and use an external controller similar to an HTG along with mechanical hardware modifications to the gearbox.


https://htg-tuning.com/#overview


The DQ250 gearbox with an uprated clutch and running 18-19 bar clamping pressure will hold around 750Nm of torque. If your engine is making 750Nm (550lb/ft ) the engine needs to be running at 10000 RPM to make 1050bhp. 








How to Calculate Horsepower - Power Test, LLC


The equation to calculate horsepower is simple. You can use our horsepower calculator to try it out yourself.




powertestdyno.com





If you want to make 1050bhp at a more sensible RPM say 8500 RPM that requires 650Lb/ft of torque which is 880Nm . Looking at the failure you seem to have had with the oil filter I would say that the gearbox oil has got very hot at some point. Wouldn't surprise me,I only have a G25-660 on my engine making just over 500bhp and I have monitored gearbox oil temps with VCDS when mapping the car on the road and the speed of increase in temps is pretty scary. Have a read of the DQ250 SSP to see how the gearbox works.


http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_308.pdf


In the stock gearbox if oil temps get above 135 degrees C the gearbox will request massive torque limitation from the ECU and limit torque to a very low limit. Easy to alter these gearbox protection strategies and allow oil temps to go higher, Unfortunately the mechatronic runs in the gearbox oil and will get damaged.
The oil that flows through the oil cooler and through that filter just goes to spray bars in the top of the gearbox that sprays oil onto the gears. The reduction in clamping pressure that you were seeing was probably because flow through the oil cooler was restricted which increased oil temps and thus caused torque limitation.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Don't want to clog your build thread up to much but the turbo you have chosen isn't a good choice to try and make the power you want. Garret rate them at 1050bhp which is based on 10.5bhp per 10Lbs/min air flow, which is quite difficult to achieve especially with pump fuel. You really need to be using E85 or at worse proper racing fuel. As you only have a 2.0 engine to achieve the power you want you need to run high boost.
If you look at the compressor map the point on the map where peak flow of 100Lb.min occurs is with a pressure ratio of around 2.65.
https://www.garrettmotion.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/G35-1050-Comp-Map.jpg









The pressure ratio is absolute so a pressure ratio of 2.65 occurs when boost is around 1.65 bar. Because of pressure losses through the intake system and intercooler you actually need a higher pressure ratio to achive a specified boost level. If you ask for 2.0 bar boost you are probably running at a PR of around 3.1 -3.2 about 95ls/min max . At 2.5 bar the PR will be more like 3.7 87Lb/min (about 870 bhp). At 3 bar boost the PR will be over the maximum of that compressor map probably 4.3 + so around 75lbs/min roughly 750bhp.
Of course you can run the compressor off the map which results in the wheel overspeeding and the efficiency being low. As the efficiency drops the turbo still makes boost but the air ends up being heated more. This turns the turbo into a hot air generator, loads of meth will help to bring this down but the only way you are going to see 1000bhp+ from a 2.0 engine with that turbo is to run nitrous. This will give you the extra oxygen you need that the turbo can't support.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Hello,
thanks for the reply and the information. We already work with a very reputable tuner Dynodrome that tunes the 1200whp World record Tfsi S3 driven by Ntemos.
At this point we have changed 3 Mechatronic units for testing but none get the pressure as high as we need it to be through out the whole rpm range. It peeks and then it just plunges down.
We have taken the transmission apart cleaned it checked it and at this point we are going to put the OEM basket back on that worked perfectly with no slipping at the 600whp power range. If the issues with the pressure is gone then we need to send the Dodson basket back to them so they can see whats wrong with it.

At this point we are at 2.6bars of boost with 100oct pump fuel and Meth at 700whp an low timing 15 with no returns from the engine.
The reason we stopped there is the clutch pressure issues that we are having after installing the Dodson basket/discs. I dont want to damage it is a very expensive part.

I will keep you posted.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Ok you certainly have people who can get power out of an engine. I usually see between 18 and 18.5 bar of pressure when logging on my gearbox. But it's only a small turbo so torque requests are usually around 550-600Nm max. I still think you will have issues with trying to get over 3 bar boost from the turbo without the turbo seriously overspeeding it generating really high IAT's.
The blade design seems to favour high flow lower boost with higher efficiency.I have a speed sensor on my turbo connected to the Ignitron ECU so I can see wheel speed and it tracks pretty much with the airflow and boost seen on the compressor map.
This is a VCDS log from some testing I was doing with the DSG


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Today I tested using the OEM basket still the issue persists ! I am starting to think that the transmission cases have some kind of unseen damage ill try finding another complete transmission and installing the Dodson basket there install it on the car see how that reacts. At this point its the only option that I have. If this doesnt work then I will have to check the electronics of the 4x4 that where installed when converted to quattro from FWD. 

Still on the hunt!


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I think the transmission oil may have been really overheated at some point which is what caused the filter to fail. Can't imagine what else would do it. This could have caused issues elsewhere in the gearbox. Changing the gearbox out for another one will probably sort it. I ouldn't imagine the other electronic modules in the car would be causing an issue. I do know that if the ABS module is an older version without ESP then this can cause issues as the DSG looks for wheel speed sensor readings on the CAN bus to validate shaft speed sensor readings. This will just cause a fault code to be generated and results in a limp mode situation. O n your car everything should be fine.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

desertstorm said:


> I think the transmission oil may have been really overheated at some point which is what caused the filter to fail. Can't imagine what else would do it. This could have caused issues elsewhere in the gearbox. Changing the gearbox out for another one will probably sort it. I ouldn't imagine the other electronic modules in the car would be causing an issue. I do know that if the ABS module is an older version without ESP then this can cause issues as the DSG looks for wheel speed sensor readings on the CAN bus to validate shaft speed sensor readings. This will just cause a fault code to be generated and results in a limp mode situation. O n your car everything should be fine.


The only fault im having is the clutch speed sensor cant recall the code number gotta check the VCDS! I will let you know thanks for the info ill let the boys know!


----------



## TTE420 (Aug 20, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> The only fault im having is the clutch speed sensor cant recall the code number gotta check the VCDS! I will let you know thanks for the info ill let the boys know!


Please let us know what you find! Chasing a similar issue currently, big slippage in 4th gear or higher when going above 2 bar of boost. Probably just crummy APR DSG software in my case, wish I could hit that 18 bar of clamp pressure. Sadly it barely reaches 13 bar.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

TTE420 said:


> Please let us know what you find! Chasing a similar issue currently, big slippage in 4th gear or higher when going above 2 bar of boost. Probably just crummy APR DSG software in my case, wish I could hit that 18 bar of clamp pressure. Sadly it barely reaches 13 bar.


My stock DQ250 did 12- 12.5 bar as stock I am sure. On the TVS site the various holding pressures and capability of the different maps is shown. It's approximately 100Nm per 3 bar clamp pressure.
So 12 bar =400Nm, 15 bar = 500Nm and 18 bar = 600Nm. The stage 4 upgrade is using an upgraded clutch pack which has more discs so more surface area.










Suprisingly TVS only appear to have 2 dealers in the USA in Florida and California. I have no issues with clutch slip in any gear.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

TTE420 said:


> Please let us know what you find! Chasing a similar issue currently, big slippage in 4th gear or higher when going above 2 bar of boost. Probably just crummy APR DSG software in my case, wish I could hit that 18 bar of clamp pressure. Sadly it barely reaches 13 bar.


Will get the new transmission on this week hopefully and resolve the issue at hand🤞🤞🤞. 

In your case I would:

Check your transmission flash
Check your mechatronic unit 
Check your transmission oil viscosity
If these dont fix the issue then start going deeper

Check your plates in the clutch basket just in case they are worn out
Check you transmission oil pump
Check the case's pistons that are built in
Check the 4 seals on the bottom of the clutch basket
Check transmission for potential cracks
Hope we both get the issues sorted out fast cause its getting me crazy not to be able to drive this beast in its full power!


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Weird, the clutch should slip at lower gear or when downshifting because it produce more torque. Try doing the basic setting. Maybe the computer just need to relearn.

Make sure not to confuse hard shifting which is caused by faulty DMF from clutch slipping.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

So after changing the transmission the tuner got a file in the Mechatronic but it wasnt right and we had the bar of death. Today was the day that we where supposed to flash the correct file but the programmer got Covid and he is quarantined... Oh my days  Another set back then.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Wanted to update my project by letting you know that the project is still in limbo since the tuner was almost 3-4 weeks in the ER from COVID but thankfully recovered now and we currently have the mechanic of the build suffering from COVID. So I am still waiting to figure things out


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Latest update on the transmission:
We changed the gearbox today and coded the new software. Monday is testing day and I hope that the issues are resolved so we can go on with our build at last now that everyone is back and healthy!


----------



## Boolee (Aug 15, 2016)

Very interesting read. I have been contemplating a Dq500 swap, but it seems like the dq250 is a lot more capable than I thought. My end goal is 700whp, also tuned by dynodrome. Any idea if a dynodrome tcu tune with golf mk7 R/ 8v S3 clutches would handle that?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Boolee said:


> Very interesting read. I have been contemplating a Dq500 swap, but it seems like the dq250 is a lot more capable than I thought. My end goal is 700whp, also tuned by dynodrome. Any idea if a dynodrome tcu tune with golf mk7 R/ 8v S3 clutches would handle that?


The 8v S3/Golf Mk7R has thicker gears in the transmission. I had OEM clutch internals untill 600whp and beath the living shit out of it for almost 10.000km. (Avoiding launches of course since I wanted the clutch to last). It should be good for 650whp with a stage 3 tune.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

have caught up on your posts - jeez what a ballache with the transmission! hopefully this replacement box holds up. did you get upgraded clutch packs while you were at it or something or just. stock-o DQ250?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> have caught up on your posts - jeez what a ballache with the transmission! hopefully this replacement box holds up. did you get upgraded clutch packs while you were at it or something or just. stock-o DQ250?


I did get a full upgraded Dodson kit but the issue was probably on the cases not the clutch pack 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

So hopefully we got good news and the issue is resolved. Had a nice pressure hold today of 18bars after testing with a "can" program for testing purposes. Will hopefully finish the tune next week.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Back again after some time that we found out the engine was running with 15 valves since on of the hydralic levers was cracked (it had 160.000km on it) and an injector was faulty. 
Went on the dyno again and got some surprising numbers. Boost came 800-900 rpm earlier and had around 60whp more at the same pressure.

The down side is that we have some kind of electical issue as it seems and the car wont send the requested clutch pressure on the dyno but is performing as it should on the road🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
Gonna check into that this week. Almost there!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh this is still the BWA block? It's forged now isn't it ?


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Glad you are moving on with this and getting somewhere. Not really a big issue if you can't dyno it, at the end of the day 100-200 figures on dragy are more impressive to me as numbers from a dyno can be so variable depending on whose dyno it is and what the operator is doing.
What kind of dyno are you running it on?. A proper mechanically linked 4wd dyno is the best for these cars. The ABS / gearbox gets confused if it sees wheel slip or differential speeds between the wheels.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

desertstorm said:


> Glad you are moving on with this and getting somewhere. Not really a big issue if you can't dyno it, at the end of the day 100-200 figures on dragy are more impressive to me as numbers from a dyno can be so variable depending on whose dyno it is and what the operator is doing.
> What kind of dyno are you running it on?. A proper mechanically linked 4wd dyno is the best for these cars. The ABS / gearbox gets confused if it sees wheel slip or differential speeds between the wheels.


Hey, the car was mounted on a hub dyno. I am taking a different approach with a different tuner at the moment and seems to have delt with all of the problems in one nights time.🤷‍♂️ Flashing a different tuner transmission file suggests that the issues where fixed all at once. Time will tell we are finally making progress quick again.


----------



## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Audittnumb said:


> Hey, the car was mounted on a hub dyno. I am taking a different approach with a different tuner at the moment and seems to have delt with all of the problems in one nights time.🤷‍♂️ Flashing a different tuner transmission file suggests that the issues where fixed all at once. Time will tell we are finally making progress quick again.


Good news, Hub dynos don't really work well with these cars at all. As I said the best solution is a mechanically linked 4wd dyno. As for DSG tunes you are pushing the limits of what a DQ250 can do in terms of torque and changing clutch packs as well doesn't help. The tune has to take into account the different charactheristics of the new clutch pack to have half a chance of delivering a good result. The self learning adaption that occurs in the stock software can only do so much. That's why I went with a TVS tune as thay probably have more experience with DSG gearbox tunes than anybody else.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Οk small update - new tuner has made small changes on the fueling system thus we need bigger top mounted injectors. Car has now succesfully been tuned with 100oct fuel and meth at 2.7 bars of boost! Progress is been made again.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Big builds always come out of Greece. I love it!


----------



## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Post some acceleration times.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

8JVR6 said:


> Post some acceleration times.


Will do when we get the project ready at this point the new transmission we tested from the MQB 8v is super long gear wise and Im looking into something that has shorter gearing. Car should be running sub 4.2 times as it is full interior (rear seat delete) with the correct gearing based on some runs we did with the current transmission. Possibly sub 4sec 100-200 with full boost and after everything is set properly.

Things that I have yet to look at:

- Short Transmission Grearing
-Wheels
-Tyres
-Susspension set up
-Perfecting the build for maximizing safety


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

A small video with the car in its current state on 2.7 bars of boost and a long transmission will upgrade to a shorter one and we believe we will be seeing a 4.2-4.3 secs 100-200 km/h
Next step is deleting the direct fuel injectors or the FSI engine and going oldschool to up the pressure safely.

Currently running 100oct pump gas + Meth

Video
------------------------------------------------------------------









Audi TT quattro mid boost G35-1050







youtube.com





and my new set of 18'' wheels with some Nankang AR-1 tyres on em


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Glad to see some progress has been made with your build man!
Interesting that you are deleting the direct injection


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Barr_end said:


> Glad to see some progress has been made with your build man!
> Interesting that you are deleting the direct injection


Its untrustworthy at this point ! I mean there are no injectors that can hold up to more than 650whp on their own with the high rail pressures that we need to go above. They get damaged and can lead to engine failure! So best way is to get rid of them.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I mean. Who needs a redline hahaha 

Nice work!!! Looking forward to the next part of the build


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> I mean. Who needs a redline hahaha
> 
> Nice work!!! Looking forward to the next part of the build


Hehe car can turn to 9.300 but for safety reasons I believe its tuned in 8400.
Will get the transmission sorted out next month


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hope the transmission upgrade goes relatively smoothly. What's the plan?


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> Hope the transmission upgrade goes relatively smoothly. What's the plan?


Getting a shorter gear ratio will help times go down dramaticaly plus upgrading some internal gears that tend to fail over 800whp+


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Some times came in today even though we still have the longer geared transmission on. Looking very promising !
Pass was done with 100 oct pump fuel + [email protected] of boost.


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Audittnumb said:


> Some times came in today even though we still have the longer geared transmission on. Looking very promising !
> Pass was done with 100 oct pump fuel + [email protected] of boost.
> 
> View attachment 486919


That is fast 🚀- although you're cheating with the slope 
Is there not a flatter road you can run so you have a 'valid' result


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Agree! need to be on a flat road for more accurate time - but still very impressive!!!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Of course the slope is a bit more than the acceptable but that was the first test run we did after taking the car out again for testing with new tyre+ wheel combo with full tyre pressure blah blah blah. If I may say it was just the first test run of the car! I believe we can see under 4 seconds when we finish the build with the G35-1050 setup. Then comes the Precussion turbo


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

NEW PICS


----------



## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Looks lovely 🔥👍💪


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Looking very smart!!! love this example


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Sometimes you can't beat simple petrol station photos!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Barr_end said:


> Sometimes you can't beat simple petrol station photos!


So true!!!!!!


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Nice pics, looks fantastic


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

So small update: 
Got the new transmisson at last from a CDL model cant say the actuall code of the transmission though.
Audi is going on a diet with some mods that will cut around 50-60kg of the car. Got an aluminum cat back exhaust, and some new lightweight windows for the project that are tinted and hardcoated.
- Thermoformed front door windows
- Thermoformed rear screen 









will upload pics when the car is ready for its final tune!


----------



## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> So small update:
> Got the new transmisson at last from a CDL model cant say the actuall code of the transmission though.
> Audi is going on a diet with some mods that will cut around 50-60kg of the car. Got an aluminum cat back exhaust, and some new lightweight windows for the project that are tinted and hardcoated.
> 
> ...


Hardcore.

You're already saving weight by downsizing the wheels and running spec tires. The JDM Time Attack tuners I followed as a kid (back in the late 90' & 00's) had a tendency to run as small a wheel as possible as it was thought that bigger wheels meant slower times.

The time attack community ended up having to run larger wheels later on due to the need to run more aggressive brake setups to deal with the repeated hard braking.

I remember shaving over 100lbs of unsprung weight swapping the OE peelers to the Advanti Racing 17/9 wheels. They weigh in at 17lbs each compared to the almost 40lb each the OE peelers weighed in at.

Can you please share your meth setup? I've recently had to make some changes in order to maximize the performance of my setup. I'm currently working with a tuner with alot of WMI experience and we've had to go to the drawing board a few times to just get to the setup where it needs to be for proper dialing in. I can only imagine the time invested on your part to get to where your at right now.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

delmar.atlas said:


> Hardcore.
> 
> You're already saving weight by downsizing the wheels and running spec tires. The JDM Time Attack tuners I followed as a kid (back in the late 90' & 00's) had a tendency to run as small a wheel as possible as it was thought that bigger wheels meant slower times.


You are spot on! I would go for 16-17 inch wheels but I wont be able to brake after that unfortunately!



delmar.atlas said:


> The time attack community ended up having to run larger wheels later on due to the need to run more aggressive brake setups to deal with the repeated hard braking.
> 
> I remember shaving over 100lbs of unsprung weight swapping the OE peelers to the Advanti Racing 17/9 wheels. They weigh in at 17lbs each compared to the almost 40lb each the OE peelers weighed in at.


True!



delmar.atlas said:


> Can you please share your meth setup? I've recently had to make some changes in order to maximize the performance of my setup. I'm currently working with a tuner with alot of WMI experience and we've had to go to the drawing board a few times to just get to the setup where it needs to be for proper dialing in. I can only imagine the time invested on your part to get to where your at right now.


Having a 300psi Snowperformance meth pump, with dual injectors spraying at the intake hose that is controlled by a boost controller that has Meth calibration settings and is compatible with this setup.
Starts spraying at a certain boost level and rpm.
This is an on going project for the past two years running around 600-750whp almost every drive I take it out. I can literaly hand the car to my wife and she can go to the grocery store with it and back with no issues. I am very pleased with the result so far. 

I will be more than pleased if we can reach around 3.4sec 100-200m with this turbo setup. Currently standing at 4.4sec


----------



## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Audittnumb said:


> You are spot on! I would go for 16-17 inch wheels but I wont be able to brake after that unfortunately!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm looking at getting dedicated track wheels with Nitto NT1s. Trying to find a wheel that weighs less than 17lbs and is cost effective is rough. After chatting with a few drag specific guys I came across, I was brought to the conclusion that if I want to truly maximize my (very tame compared to yours) setup, I would need to run Dots. The interesting observation was that those fast TTS & TTRS guys were running 16' wheels in the rear with the corresponding tires to keep the rolling height the same in order to hook up better and drop their 60ft times. I wish I had pictures to share but it really was a great concept to comprehend.

My meth kit is the same except I'm running a single nozzle. The tuner I'm working with wants me to get a bigger nozzle to get as much from the system as possible. I'm not chasing HP figures but he presents a compelling reason.

I'm subscribed to your thread. Looking forward to seeing more of your build.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

delmar.atlas said:


> I'm looking at getting dedicated track wheels with Nitto NT1s. Trying to find a wheel that weighs less than 17lbs and is cost effective is rough. After chatting with a few drag specific guys I came across, I was brought to the conclusion that if I want to truly maximize my (very tame compared to yours) setup, I would need to run Dots. The interesting observation was that those fast TTS & TTRS guys were running 16' wheels in the rear with the corresponding tires to keep the rolling height the same in order to hook up better and drop their 60ft times. I wish I had pictures to share but it really was a great concept to comprehend.


Try checking the JR7 wheels. Stupid cheap and super light. Around 2.5pounds heavier that the lightest Enkei RPF1!!
More progress comming soon!


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

Goodmorning, went to make some small "adjustments" at a local 3d printing modification shop to the left front headlight to maximise air flow! Took the car in for the new transmission and replacing the windows with the new ones.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

So a small update on my project! New transmission got on the car. We had 0.4sec lower 100-200km/h+ reaching 3.9secs a full OEM leather interior(rear seats deleted) at 3bars of boost with 100oct pump gas. Unfortunately after a few pulls the OEM DSG gears didnt like the power and blew up 😅. So no saved dragy times to show at this point. Going to order an upgraded set of gears that have proven to handle over 1000whp on a DQ250 to make it bulletproof.

car should be at the 850whp range at this point estimated in comparisson with some other equivalent projects. Hopefully we will get things sorted out with the transmission failure and get back on the road for some measurments + dyno pulls with racegas

Happy Holidays guys!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Audittnumb said:


> on a DQ250 to make it bulletproof.


Cant' source a DQ500 which are known to be able to handle higher power from factory?


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I think the DQ500 needs the bell housing milling to fit a VR6 though I've also looked into this out of interest just because they are 7 speed


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> Cant' source a DQ500 which are known to be able to handle higher power from factory?


The DQ500 even though is a very durable transmission its super heavy in comparission to the DQ250 so we are trying to shave as much weight as possible. Even got a used set of doors that will get cut down and shave off as much weight as possible with "plastic" windows. If everything else fails we will consider that option. But we already have a racecar that pushes over 1000whp at this point with zero issues with these upgraded gears.



MT-V6 said:


> I think the DQ500 needs the bell housing milling to fit a VR6 though I've also looked into this out of interest just because they are 7 speed


Its does need machine work to fit a DQ500 on a 3.2 engine indeed.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I think the DQ500 needs the bell housing milling to fit a VR6 though I've also looked into this out of interest just because they are 7 speed


Yeah they do - IIRC direct fit for 4 pots though 



Audittnumb said:


> The DQ500 even though is a very durable transmission its super heavy in comparission to the DQ250 so we are trying to shave as much weight as possible.


Ahhhh ok of course there's a perfectly rational decision to keep DQ250! Do you have a link to the kit you'll use?


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah they do - IIRC direct fit for 4 pots though


Doesn't seem like enough cylinders to me


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Doesn't seem like enough cylinders to me


That 6 cylinder bias  

I have both again so I can't talk.


----------



## Audittnumb (Apr 8, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah they do - IIRC direct fit for 4 pots though
> 
> 
> Ahhhh ok of course there's a perfectly rational decision to keep DQ250! Do you have a link to the kit you'll use?


Unfortunately no, its a Bulgarian tuner that makes them costs around 500EUR for a gear.


----------



## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Audittnumb said:


> Unfortunately no, its a Bulgarian tuner that makes them costs around 500EUR for a gear.


That would be Monster Performance. 

Don Octane is a reseller:









Verstärkter DSG Radsatz DQ250 2.-6. Gang syncronisiert DON OCTANE


verstärkter Radsatz DON OCTANE 2-3-4-5-6 sycronisiert DQ250 Lieferzeit anfragen ! teilweise kann es zu Lieferengpässen kommen !




www.don-octane.de





I have their manual gears and they are very good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

