# Suspected Allen bit fallen down ring gear observation hole



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So whilst sorting out the alternator, i lost a 5mm allen bit.

I checked and checked and after the engine physically cannot turn over only (3/4 anti clockwise then back again to a hard stop) the clunk looked and felt like it was gear box end. Whilst looking around I noticed the observation hole did not have a bung and guess what a suspicious scratch. Is this where the allen bit went? Is there anyway to try and recover it? I'm wondering if I remove the starter motor, it might help? It feels like something is trapped and hitting a ledge or something.

Is there any other ways to look?

If I cannot turn it with my socket - What will happen if I turn it back 3/4 of a turn and try and start it?

This is so frustrating after sorting out the alternator, i spent about 20 minutes searching but didn't even see the observation hole until discussing with my neighbour the clunk.

Reckon I may just get a new clutch now...


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

If it has happened, that's rotten bloody luck and you have my sympathies, chap.

Any chance you can find someone in your area with one of those eBay endoscope cameras that might fit down the hole?

(I have one if you're near St Albans, fwiw...).

Certainly worth popping the starter motor off on the off chance.

I wouldn't be keen to crank it over - if the bolt breaks a tooth off the flywheel ring gear, for e.g., it might set off a cascade of failures 

Have you tried turning the engine by hand back and forward a few times, in case the obstruction drops out of the way?

Although, even if that does happen, the bolt could be dragged back into the path of say the flywheel and do some real damage 

Bugger.

/Al


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

That's a good idea with the endoscope, I have a mate at work who has one but it's probably a good investment anyway.

Because there's no scrapping noise, I actually reckon it is maybe embedded in-between two teeth and the rotation is maybe starter top to starter bottom 90% rotation, although my neighbour said he didn't see anything when I was turning back and forward the crank shaft but the flywheel rotates so much faster, it's difficult to see.

So maybe me forgetting to plug the injectors in was actually a blessing as it turned over about 5 times before i thought the battery had died. And if the car had started that would have caused mayhem.

Starter off some day this week then.


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## damoeire33 (Mar 26, 2018)

Bendy magnet and endoscope well worth a try before major work

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

StuartDB said:


> That's a good idea with the endoscope, I have a mate at work who has one but it's probably a good investment anyway.


Mind which one you buy - I bought one thinking it was well worth the £8-odd I paid for it, and the software (I think it's the software) is garbage, just locks up after a few seconds so it makes looking around almost impossible. Maybe the Android viewer software is less rubbish.

A timely reminder, though, that I don't have my bung in place, and I must get around to putting it back. Someone else left it out, maybe the people who did the timing belt, and I found it on top of the block. Initially I thought it was the cap off a hot-water bottle.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I got the starter motor off this evening, good visibility from the engine bay and about 1mm ring gear clearance with a shield protecting the starter motor from debris. I will have a careful look tomorrow and am crossing everything it's jammed inbetween two teeth and is retrievable with some curved long noise pliers.

The scratch marks look like it scraped along the ring gear until it was dragged in, I am just hoping it is visible and reachable.


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## falconmick (Mar 12, 2018)

Fingers crossed, good luck.


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

StuartDB said:


> I will have a careful look tomorrow and am crossing everything it's jammed inbetween two teeth and is retrievable with some curved long noise pliers.


That will be very good luck, and another of those things that you couldn't repeat if you tried a hundred times. Fingers crossed.


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

Iirc, when you drop the sump pan you can see into the clutch housing so if the bolt has dropped right down, it may be easier to pull the sump off than faff around trying to pull it out of the starter motor hole.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah that'll be my next port of call even with the starter out the actual space is limited - just going out now with my borescope - it's quite a bit bigger than I thought so might not even be good enough.

I am confident I wont need to separate the bell housing and engine now, as the sump is another bit of space and gives access to the other side.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

I can't see how dropping the sump will help at all, splitting the BH and block will/may enable full rotation of the flywheel but if you need to go that far you may as well drop the box and pop a clutch in.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

I recently bought an endoscope that works via wi-fi straight to your chosen device in HD quality, the wi-fi end unit also doubles as a USB power bank. It was about £20 on Amazon prime next day delivery and is superb, it even comes with a magnetic tip attachment. It could be just the thing you need.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Pukmeister said:


> I recently bought an endoscope that works via wi-fi straight to your chosen device in HD quality, the wi-fi end unit also doubles as a USB power bank. It was about £20 on Amazon prime next day delivery and is superb, it even comes with a magnetic tip attachment. It could be just the thing you need.


Useful Adam - any chance you could post a link please ? I have got a cheap one already but it's crap.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I got one of these delivered today with a £5 discount so £25.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07C5T64LS

it's quite a bit of kit (magnetic, hook, 45 degree tiny mirror, water proof etc) but not like fibre optic cabling, as it is 5mm wide with LED lights you can press a button on the device to take a photo or use the app. via wifi on your phone. it comes with another extendable pole - very easy to setup and use (scan QR code to download app, switch on device and set network. you can't really record with it, it has a visual connection but anything fast moving is just a blur and the focus range is 3-8cm so you cannot get in really close to stuff even though it is 1080p.

it was too bug to adventure round inside the bell housing I am 90% through removing the sump now. oil out, bolts out ready to split tomorrow. what a b-i-t-c-h those last two bolts next to the bell housing are


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Stuart - be very careful with the front sump bolts (7mm threads) where the end of the bolt is exposed and gets corroded - don't just wind them out or you may strip the threads. lots of lube on the ends of the bolts helps.
Ideally have a 7mm tap available - odd size so order off ebay.
John


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## SinfulDesignCom (Mar 2, 2013)

OMG - you have my sympathy here. I did EXACTLY the same thing just before Christmas. So there I was in the freezing temperatures titting around doing exactly what you are.

Be aware when putting those bolts you speak of back into the sump, that they can VERY easily fall into to the same housing area. I used a load of grease packed into the 10mm socket before offering them up. Only when they bit into the thread would the socket be released.

Good luck man


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks, I have them all off now, just need to break the sealant seal. It looks like the main gear box has already been retaped on the dogbone so well need to be careful putting that back on. 
The annoying thing is I don't want to buy a new sump (its been retapped and leaks), oil pickup and the sealant until I have sorted the problem.


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

Good luck Stu!

Sounds like you have my luck cos that sort of thing usually happens to me :lol:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks, it is the luck I 'used to' have, but I should have really cleaned the pickup already so as long as I benefit from this pain I the long run, it will have it's benefits.

The losing nuts, bolts, tools etc reminds me of a child maybe 4 who knocked a tennis ball over the fence and couldn't find it, so i knocked another nap over the fence and watched where it went and found both together. The next time I tried this I lost both balls.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> Thanks, it is the luck I 'used to' have, but I should have really cleaned the pickup already so as long as I benefit from this pain I the long run, it will have it's benefits.
> 
> The losing nuts, bolts, tools etc reminds me of a child maybe 4 who knocked a tennis ball over the fence and couldn't find it, so i knocked another nap over the fence and watched where it went and found both together. The next time I tried this I lost both balls.


Lost both balls, ouch sounds painfull :lol:


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## SinfulDesignCom (Mar 2, 2013)

> Lost both balls, ouch sounds painfull :lol:


 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Textbook Delta assistance here....


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

SinfulDesignCom said:


> > Lost both balls, ouch sounds painfull :lol:
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
> ...


The world would be a better place if more people made time to have a chuckle


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## SinfulDesignCom (Mar 2, 2013)

Delta4 said:


> SinfulDesignCom said:
> 
> 
> > > Lost both balls, ouch sounds painfull :lol:
> ...


Sage advice, Sir...


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

gerontius said:


> Pukmeister said:
> 
> 
> > I recently bought an endoscope that works via wi-fi straight to your chosen device in HD quality, the wi-fi end unit also doubles as a USB power bank. It was about £20 on Amazon prime next day delivery and is superb, it even comes with a magnetic tip attachment. It could be just the thing you need.
> ...


Here you go:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WOWGO-Inspecti ... ords=wowgo


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

All I dreamt of is whether having a load of engine oil in your hair and trying to wash it will swarfega gives your cancer, as that's all I could smell all night. I'm going to stop guessing but I'm hoping it is dropping down with gravity and catching on something but as I posted on ASN. This could easily end up as as hybrid turbo upgrade. 
New clutch new rods new turbo and manifold new fuel parts.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Quick update and plan. I found new valve scratches on the piston of cylinder 4, via the spark plug hole with the borescope.










So assumption is that the screwdriver bit was on the inlet manifold and when I lifted to remove it fell down, then found it's way into the valve and bent / jammed it.

So plan is 
Tomorrow...
1. Remove inlet manifold tomorrow have a look around. 
2. Remove exhaust manifold to turbo bolts. 
.... what's the time..?
Tomorrow PM or Sunday...
3. Remove head..
4. Check head and pistons and bores....

Now the thing is, for the last couple of months the dipstick has been rising up by a couple of cms.. And when rotating the engine without the sump there's quite a lot of hissing all assuming the rings were leaking. So I've decided after taking it all to pieces if it looks mostly healthy I will..

As everything is already apart...

1. Fit rods bearings and rings
2. Fit my downpipe from the top
3. Buy a chinafold and port it to eradicate the common cylinder 3 misfire. 
4. Get a hybrid turbo
5. Service the head...
6. Replace sump...

... run this in on actuator pressure...

7. Replace injectors and pump

8. Clutch....

9. Mapped...

If the damage is irreparable... then not do this...

I can't afford to do this all at once...


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Is it not worth trying to retrieve the screwdriver bit first before pulling the head off ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

that's why the inlet is coming off first I can have a look to see what's what with the borescope (although it's not as flexible you would imagine) the expectancy is it has damaged a valve - but we will see. I checked the stock rods yesterday and they all look straight.

the thing is this is an upgrade path in any case - like people at work saying for the price you will pay for all the bits and pieces why not buy another TT - well I have already had one so I will be in exactly the same place in 6 months.


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## SinfulDesignCom (Mar 2, 2013)

Would be amazed if anything happened to rods.

That scope is amazing for 22 squid. Really impressive.

Might order me one, but am scared what I will find in my cylinders now. Sometimes, ignorance is bliss as they say.

But if all else fails, I could save a trip to the Doctor and check my own prostrate


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I didn't expect that this issue would damage rods but I have been mapping this car and that can bend the rods - if I noted they were bent or whatever it would be 100% removal time..

I am just costing up the modifications   not the right approach, I know I should be trying to get the car fixed and back on the road for the minimum cost but it just "feels" like the right time


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Well, bugger  How did a screwdriver bit end up down there? That's pretty much the worst-possible outcome of FOD ingestion [smiley=argue.gif] :evil:

Given we're assuming there's a screwdriver bit _somewhere_, where do you think it is right now? Resting against the turbo's compressor blades? Stuck in a valve?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I doubt it is in the turbo as the car never started it turned over about 5 times and I assumed the fuel was not getting through as on ramps so pushed off the ramps and then didn't turn over - I will see in any case tomorrow what's going on but I expect it is jamming a valve open stopping the cylinder from turning over. assuming this is the case the only thing that could have happened is when it left the screw driver it was somehow on a shelf and fell into the head when lifting the inlet - never mind... got the potential modification work planned now.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Hmm, well, good luck bud.

How were you turning it over when it wouldn't go? Starter motor or by hand?

All a bit of a mess potentially - crossing fingers that it's only superficial damage or a new valve or two needed at the very worst.

(Your shopping list looks exciting, though...! :mrgreen: )

/Al


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

So your not going just buy another one for 1800 quid then :lol:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Nope i don't think so, i know I said that previously but I have already invested quite a bit of time in this and want to at least try and see it through.. I think if I have to remove the head to see the damage I will definitely fit my downpipe, and it's only 6 bolts for a turbo and 8 bolts for rods.

Although, I do need to get myself organised with my tools and the stuff I remove, and it's annoying because I have other time and income commitments.

Basic starter shopping list.
IE Rods 480
ATE370 1050(exchange) <-- this might seem like an interesting choice but I already have a v3 TIP and the ate380 has a pre-mounted 2.2 billet..
Bearings 50
Rings 50
Chinafold 150 + porting ?
Inlet Valves etc...?
Head gasket stuff 100
Incidentals 200
Sump and pickup 60

After run in...

Fuelling... £300

If it is all going to plan clutch £1000

Then a professional remap.

I'm under no illusion, that there will be a multitude of hiccups, seized bolts, breaking other pipes, flanges stirring removal etc..

And I'm not buying anything until I have removed and costed everything, this is expected to be over several weeks, You can just buy a hybrid CHRA, also I'm not sure on the rules regarding the turbo exchange can i just buy a wrecked k04 from eBay?

Anyway if the valve, assuming this is the issue, simply springs back and all looks perfect, then i might just bit ty me it and put it all back together.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

What if the piston has embedded the bit into the head ?

Presumably it's otherwise gotta be in the exhaust or inlet somewhere ??

Surely the only surefire way to check for a bent Conrod is to remove it from both crank and piston then measure it on a surface plate with dti / feeler gauges?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

regarding the head damage this is why I said I am not buying anything until I have a view of everything. if it is knackered then I have the bits in view the strip :| the head off to replace etc etc

Ref - Bent Rods
I expect so - but I would have been able to see them if they looked like these.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Conrod damage is unlikely, if your lucky it'll just be replacement valves.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Given the small size of a screwdriver bit, and the relatively low power of a starter motor, I'd wager a kilo of biltong that the rods wouldn't have bent before a hardened screwdriver bit punched a hole through the top of a piston. Those rods are incredibly tough.

Fingers crossed...!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

What with all the talk of engine damage? How the hell does a missing bit in the transmission makes its way into the engine? Is there a transmission to block pipe I'm unaware of?

Sorry to hear about your misfortune, sorry to say but you have to split the box from the block to recover and inspect the damage (if any).


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

alexgreyhead said:


> Given the small size of a screwdriver bit, and the relatively low power of a starter motor, I'd wager a kilo of biltong that the rods wouldn't have bent before a hardened screwdriver bit punched a hole through the top of a piston. Those rods are incredibly tough.
> 
> Fingers crossed...!


I wasn't expecting the current issue to bend rods, as I said I have been mapping the car since April, it was just an opportunity to check them.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Madmax199 said:


> What with all the talk of engine damage? How the hell does a missing bit in the transmission makes its way into the engine? Is there a transmission to block pipe I'm unaware of?
> 
> Sorry to hear about your misfortune, sorry to say but you have to split the box from the block to recover and inspect the damage (if any).


I'm giving up on speculation now, it looks like the timing is now out by 2 or 3 teeth. Something caused this (speculation: car turning over crank stopped cam continued for two teeth, now there's interference? )


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

What a nightmare :-|


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Oh, that's escalated quite badly since I was last here. Bad luck there.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

It'll be in pieces tomorrow 

Going to try and remove head with manifold and turbo all joined together with associate hoses. I only have the turbo support bracket and coolant return connected to the turbo. Then the flange and head bolts.


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## damoeire33 (Mar 26, 2018)

Fingers and toes crossed that it goes well for ya

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> It'll be in pieces tomorrow
> 
> Going to try and remove head with manifold and turbo all joined together with associate hoses. I only have the turbo support bracket and coolant return connected to the turbo. Then the flange and head bolts.


Stuart 
Please take some pictures along the way if possible. Will help me decide if I'm going to attempt my work myself, or do the lazy option :? 
Good luck.


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

Just been reading through this, how unlucky are you, hope everything goes well from here.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah... I am pretty unlucky I just went to go to the toilet then spent 30 minutes clearing up shitzu poo where she is clearly ill - I was like who has spilt warm Weetabix on the stairs :O

got the dog bone mount off (no snapped bolts) and the turbo oil feed banjo and associated bracket - this leaves the turbo support bracket nut and bolt and side mount and then I should be able to lift the head clear. 

picking up an electric reciprocating saw tomorrow to remove the old downpipe, I spent about an hour trying to break the band connecting the flexipipe to the top of the downpipe - so just bought a machine instead.

this is going to be slow progress - it's not that I lack ambition - I just like TV more. : )


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

.........Sounds like the kind of job a cold beer was invented for.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

slight progress update.

so as a reminder I managed to lose an allen bit whilst undoing the inlet manifold and assumed it fell somewhere other than the engine bay, anyway whilst withdrawing the inlet from the head wherever this bit was balanced meant it fell into the cylinder 4 inlet port.

removed the sump and head, reclaimed the 5mm Allen bit 

stripped the head one of the stem seals was not seated on the valve guide - potentially why I was getting oil in the throttle body and my dipstick was always an inch up after a drive, also maybe why I was struggling to map any timing advance wit tunerpro.

one of the inlet valves was slightly bent too, still able to turn the engine over just tighter.

head is being welded and skimmed £110

pec rifledrilled forged rods should be arriving tomorrow along with new rings and big end bearings. (I am hoping a second hand piston and inlet valve is also in the box 

I am still unsure over whether I will pay the 1500-1800 for a turbo and manifold or 275 for a hybrid CHRA and 300+ for a chinafold and port, there is also a reasonably priced DIRENZO exhaust manifold - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-4-2- ... 2607834951 not sure of it's reputation?

my concern over the hybrid CHRA is that I will still have a stock actuator and an uprated actuator is another 200.

whilst removing the head, manifold and turbo in one go I annoyingly forgot to disconnect the EGT sensor - so that is broken and also to remove the manifold and turbo from the head I broke the bracket on the oil feed.

I have cleaned the throttle body and dumped the PCV and instead will refit my catchcan with some new silicon hoses.

I'm going to soak the pistons and valves in diet coke.

I also need a new CAM Pulley bolt apparently the more expensive ARP bolt can be re-used.

I am not getting Inconel valves - which I might live to regret.

once car is back together the plan is to run in and test on actuator pressure only, then if all okay - replace the injectors and fuel pump, and get a safe map. then I expect I will need a new clutch - so probably keep it low powered until next year.


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

I'm still mulling over the hybrid CHRA route ( already have a ported chinafold, 3" dp, decat and zorst cluttering up my front room  ) BBT do uprated actuators at a reasonable price. https://www.jcperformance.co.uk/bbt-per ... id-turbos/


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

£80 ish is good the turbo smart ones AET fit are £200.
Rather disappointed I only managed to get 2 of the 3 turbo mani bolts undone using bergon extractor. I will try and get a new #2 as I broke that one trying to undo the same bolt on my s3. The other two undid okay with a blow-torch on for a couple of minutes.

Did you buy a ported chinafold or get it ported? I know they cause a cylinder 3 misfire as delivered.


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

S/H already ported to match K04. 
I'm going to fire off a few questions to Turbo Rebuild. If I do go down that route I'll send my turbo to them for refurb/rebuild.
Have the AET fitted on the 180 .5 Bar crack pressure


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

"Have the AET fitted on the 180 .5 Bar crack pressure"

do you mean you have fitted the BBT actuator? or the AET?

if I manage to remove and split the turbo then I will seriously consider a hybrid CHRA if it makes 330BHP/300lb-ft for £600 versus 350BHP/330lb-ft for £1800 I will be fine with that.


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

I've got an AET hybrid fitted to the 180 8) Bill has done a running map for it and then started muttering on about FMIC's, WMI and wide band conversion. Have done the WMI, waiting on a slot from Colin @Creative for the FMIC. Wide band [smiley=book2.gif]


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah I already have an FMIC, 3inch DP , B5 TIP, cone filter and will be fitting the forged internals this week and looking to collect the head end of the week.

as I said do I get a DIY hybrid and manifold or spend out for the premium hybrid package? <-- thats the puzzle


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

I'd much rather you were the mule this time Stuart  + your'e much further ahead than me. 
If Turbo rebuilds claims are true then it should be good for 300/300 :?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

lol... what on earth could go wrong


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

Noticed my observation hole is open to the elements too.

Replacement bung appears to be 02M301115B - Going to grab one before I next tinker with anything.


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

New bung arrived today, but christ it's hard to get your hand squeezed in around all the plumbing to get to the hole.

Anyone got any tips how to get decent access? Under the manifold?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

dont ask me - I can get to that hole easily  the manifold is on the conservatory table along with the Cam cover, the head is in Cambridge, the turbo is in 3 pieces in a box the exhaust manifold is next to the back door the old sump is with the exhaust manifold the new sump is on top of the valve springs and collets box, the new forged rods, rings and bearing are on the bedroom floor etc etc etc


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

Haha yeah I don't envy you there Stuart.

I need to look at replacing some PCV pipes anyway so may go poking around and do it all together.


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

O.k successfully fitted the replacement plug today.

02M301115B fits nicely, picked up from eBay for £6. Tied some string around the handle to prevent the risk of dropping into the bay, and managed to get access under the coolant pipework where the temp sender sits.

It was a VERY tight squeeze, I have small hands and really had to force myself through the gaps to get my hand into a position where I could get enough thumb pressure to put the plug in.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

that's cool - good idea with the retaining string.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Ive had this bung come out and wedge into the gear linkages twice result in a sudden spongy gear change, so removed it completely.

This thread has got me to refit it!

I smeared some silicone around the ribs to hopefully keep it place might add the string suggestion if I can reach it without pulling it out again.
A tool like this helps a lot


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## kam88 (Jul 8, 2018)

this bung thing does it look like it might have come off a hot water bottle?
the reason I ask is because I inherited a box of bits that were in the boot of
my TT when I bought it and I have no idea what it is or more importantly where
it is supposed to go. any advice would be most welcome.


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

kam88 said:


> this bung thing does it look like it might have come off a hot water bottle?
> the reason I ask is because I inherited a box of bits that were in the boot of
> my TT when I bought it and I have no idea what it is or more importantly where
> it is supposed to go. any advice would be most welcome.


Yeah, that is exactly what it looks like.

The photo's/text in this thread help explain where it sits, but I'll try and grab some fresh photo's this evening for you.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Kam88, Yes it does look like a hot water bottle stopper & it fits on top of gearbox & gives access to the TDC marks on starter ring/flywheel.








Hoggy.


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## kam88 (Jul 8, 2018)

great , thanks for the info Hoggy though reading the previous posts it sounds like a bit of a job getting it back into the hole.


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## kam88 (Jul 8, 2018)

great , thanks for the info Hoggy though reading the previous posts it sounds like a bit of a job getting it back into the hole.


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

kam88 said:


> this bung thing does it look like it might have come off a hot water bottle?
> the reason I ask is because I inherited a box of bits that were in the boot of
> my TT when I bought it and I have no idea what it is or more importantly where
> it is supposed to go. any advice would be most welcome.


Goes in here


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

buy some of those crazy pliers wak has posted :|


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

If it can pop out, perhaps it is worth making up a small lanyard (sailor speak for a piece of string) to keep it safe and easy to refit without allowing it to fall out into your gear linkage?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Add the silicone to semi glue it and help it stay, I reckon there must be a fair bit of air turbulence built up in the bell housing might be why they pop out

Plus you've just made me think my crazy pliers may let me feed the string down into the hole!


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> lol... what on earth could go wrong


Having seen some pictures on another thread I think an update is needed


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

not sure what there is to update?

I will get the pistons in the engine and new sump on this weekend (I will , I will , I will)

I have three in and ARP torqued up twice with PEC Rifle Drilled Forged rods but had an issue with one of the cylinders I broke a ring so bought a new set for that piston, and have a new sump and cleaned pick up with new o-ring. (that is my goal for the weekend)

in the back-ground I have bought a hybrid CHRA for 275 which fits into an unmodified hotside and compressor housing. a chinafold from aliexpress and aim to port it, I have my repaired head back (might have already posted that)

I need a new oil feed pipe and my goal this month is to get the turbo pressed back together aligned and bolted one along with the downpipe an clean the cat - this will leave next month for the head 










































I have some decent internal diameter 19mm silicon hose for the catchcan to be fitted in, and probably have done the easiest thermostate replacement so far on the forum.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

I like the extended tip billet compressor wheel. That will get you up and going much quicker.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The internals are improved too. I need to get a guide to aligning the chra and you are supposed to change the bolts. Also need an uprated actuator.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> The internals are improved too. I need to get a guide to aligning the chra and you are supposed to change the bolts. Also need an uprated actuator.


There is no guide to aligning the covers onto the CHRA (as far as I know). If you didn't mark the covers, you just have to eye it against another factory turbo for reference. The turbine housing is kind of straightforward because the wastegate helps (won't bolt properly unless lined up), but the compressor cover has no reference point. You could reuse the bolts and triangle locking tabs. I have plenty of pics if you need them to eye the covers position, and being slightly off (say by a mm) won't really be an issue.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

thanks max, so can I press them together and then rotate to adjust before pinching them together. can I use some heat resistant Loctite sealant on the compressor housing or was that originally a real gasket?










will this be okay do you reckon?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well I am an expert at deconstructing and reconstructing a K04 turbo and associated pipework now, probably could do it blindfolded like a green beret does with his machine gun.

enjoyed a couple hours of what should be classed as a winter nights project, just needed a crackling fire in the background, and children writing Christmas lists to Santa in the background. last night I lapped in all the valves, and this evening fitted the new exhaust valves - got the more fiddly inlet valves tomorrow.



















and I have planned the head side of the chinafold port to match the gasket. This is the same size as stock which are both much bigger than the head - this is normal apparently something to do with pressures means the exhaust gas may leave 33mm but the manifold should be 38mm <-- or something like this? also the turbo hotside needs porting as highlighted in my warning thread about cheap turbos.










I have some guidance regarding the collector port opening too for the chinafold.

I have my ARP Cam Pulley Bolt ready to replace, just need to work out what the head gasket instructions about the cam shaft seals are all about? I really dont understand the little label in the Elring package? it something about the centre of the seal is supposed to got onto something else :| I dont get it

and I am picking up my half moon gasket tomorrow along with a couple of oil filters, hardly making the most of the GSF60 code.

I also got a replacement top timing cover which.... hey surprise doesn't have the leg which meant they break when you try to remove or replace them.

and I ordered a new after run pump, the m10 copper nuts and nordlock washers I need some m8 copper self locking nuts for the exhaust manifold, I think I nearly have all the parts I need now?


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

I am no way brave enough to try any of this, but love reading the deep-dive thread, gives a great understanding for the engineering

Keep fighting the good fight Stuart!


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well I have the head back together with new exhaust valves, ARP cam pulley bolt and the ported and trimmed Chinafold manifold fitted.

Should be able to fit the head some time this week.





































Also fitted rest of exhaust, after run pump and coolant flange and sensor gasket (all little Jobs but they still take hours)


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Steady progress is better than none at all, do you intend to tweak your map ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I have a 4 month plan assuming it works.

Lower the map load keeping stock timing and generous fuelling.

1.Run in on actuator pressure, checking logs (this is 15psi)

2.If all okay after run in bring map inline with actuator to reconnect n75. (Planning on matching the desired with the actual from the logs)

The above will probably be like a stage 1

3.Replace injectors and try my new (2000 mile) Stock Haas fuel pump
4.see what is feasibly safe with this setup... if required new fuel pump. 
5. New cat back
6. Professional map

Of course, it might just smash itself to pieces when I try and start it (hopefully next week) the thing I'm most concerned about are the ring gaps, as I broke a ring fitting the last cylinder and when checking it - it hadn't been gapped enough (But I gapped them all.. So if this one was wrong.. then....,)

In all honesty I only have head, timing belt, pcv and intake, battery, oil and coolant left in the engine bay and a new exhaust mount for rear box.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

A couple of updates.

I fitted my Bi-Metal Stelite Exhaust Chromed Exhaust Values (£150) and prepared to put the head back on - gave the head a quick turn over and "bang" one of the exhaust valves snapped at the grooves. I got a replacement but it transpires I had a spring on the ledge, meaning the spring pressure on cam release tweaks the hardened tip and snaps them on the cap. Damn Lucky it snapped outside of the engine.

After further discussion on ASN, I made the decision to buy SuperTech Inconel exhaust valves, which I fitted last night along with the CAMs and checked / double checked the cam to cam timing. I also did some more chinafold porting - so fingers crossed hopefully the head is ready again.

(I have put this head together several times now)

I also have now got 15 litres of mineral oil (Wilko and Millers) to run in the big end bearings and rings.

I should be in a position to fit the head at some point in the next week or so, also have the hose and clamps for replacing the PCV pipework and vacuum hoses.

What I will recommend is using "swarfeager jizzer" to clean up engine surfaces for removing carbon, tar etc...


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

That valve snapping when it did sounds like a blessing in disguise.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Really it was, once I was told the cause, I removed them all as could see an inlet spring was also hooked up, and I hadn't pushed a couple of stem seal on well enough so yeah very lucky. Hopefully all good now.

Hooked up on inlet.










Guidance and warning.

View attachment 5v-installation-note-supertech.pdf


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

fuel injector advice?

I am going to be updating the fuel injectors and potentially the pump after the run in period (assuming I dont get a crash-bang-wallop on start up) I see some 660cc for 250 and 550cc for 180 + 20 for adapters what is the actual advice here for a medium build on a hybrid K04?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

short sharp update.

engine is together timing belt installed and a couple of turn overs to ensure all the marks are aligned still.

awaiting delivery of one 19mm ID 90 degree silicone to compete the PCV and catch can then
1. grenade pin pulled (fingers crossed)
2. timing covers
3. lower pulley
4. aux belt
5. cam cover
6. charge pipe
7. spark plugs
8. expansion tank
9. coolant
10. battery

oh and I also bought one of these  even though it wasn't the issue.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-GEARBOX-CLOSE-OUT-PLUG-02M301115B-/222850767169


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Without the bottom pulley fitted what's to stop the belt coming off ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Are you talking about the tensioner pulley?
That is fitted, it just isn't under full tension as the damper is not triggered..

Oh you are talking about the lower pulley for the aux belt, I am only turning the engine over by hand on the crank with a socket. Im not sure the belt is supposed to ride out to touch the lower pulley in any case otherwise it will rub against the metal timing covers


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

well it is back together...

so we all know how difficult it is to get the top timing cover on without breaking it so I shaved the problematic edge.


















I managed to fit a bung to the hole which started this entire journey (even though it wasn't the issue) - it's got some string to hold it on 



















I left the injectors unplugged for about 5 or 6 "10 second turnovers" to help circulate the oil. re-checked and topped up the oil (It does take more than 5 litres if all the head lifters and VVT is drained and a new sump.










*--- So it is not all good news the engine is back together but I have some faults so it doesn't run    ---*

The first start it rattled and then idled nicely for about 10 seconds and now it only runs for 1 second - it's not the immoboliser. I have faults which after being cleared immediately return so I will try tomorrow to check the inlet manifold electrical connections and try to use the ROSS-TECH guide to use VAG-COM measuring block 060 to reset the throttle body to see if that resolves it.


```
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Saturday, 01 December 2018, 15:46:40.
Control Module Part Number: 8N0 906 018 H
  Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT         0004
           Software Coding: 10710
            Work Shop Code: WSC 33278
                      VCID: 361FA5DB015F
           Additional Info: TRUZZZ8N631000297     AUZ5Z0B7196008
3 Faults Found:
17951 -  Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
        P1543 - 35-00 -   -
17580 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
        P1172 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
17987 -  Throttle Actuator (J338): Adaptation Not Started
        P1579 - 35-00 -   -
```
also my Key and driver door central locking etc is not working, which is not a priority until the engine is running.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well car is running, might take it on the road later on. Needs 50 mile run in to start. The lower connector on the throttle body wasn't plugged in. doh


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

That's a result, possible headache avoided


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah, I'll get it on the ramps tomorrow. The downpipe needs adjusting I fitted it before fitting the head so the manifold has pulled it toward the prop shaft and it goes 
Ting ting ting


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

A minor issue, i'm interested in how you get on with the hybrid turbo, so come on get a shift on :lol:


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Good news, glad you stuck with it and not just sold it on as a breaker.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Been interesting following this story. Glad you nearly knocked it in the head and got it road worthy once again.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

spoke to the MOT guy today - to ask them to be gentle with my car - so once I have adjusted the downpipe and sports cat to not hit the prop shaft I will spend some time at their shop.

this is essentially my post from ASN which lists stuff done PRE / DURING / NEEDS DOING.

----------

Hi so. ... car NOT taxed will look to MOT this week, not sure when it runs out I know I can find out but.... it'll just keep me up at night. ( I have found out and it needs doing now)

I just want to thank all the technical guidance, support and encouragement during this massive (for me) task. It's taken time but has been absolutely great fun and very satisfying. I really could not have done this without multiple nudges in the right direction by Tuffty and Bill.

It's an incredible confidence builder if someone has the space and time, and doesn't mind trying to wash old engine oil out their hair with swarfega or buying a use once in a life time tool. I took a long way round to get here, and even though the issue was self-inflicted due to losing a screw bit, I was having some issues with hopefully are going to be resolved with this work.

This is a summary of the changes made so far. (previous - n249 delete, b5 v3 TIP, cosworth s2000 cone filter, heat sheild, brembo brakes, toyo sports FMIC, 20/15 wheel spacers, new wheel bearings, timing belt, water pump, aux belt, alternator pulley, ngk bkr plugs, coils, haldex and filter, gearbox redline oil change, diff oil change, fuel filter, some audio kit and other internal car bug fixes / sensors and microswitches etc )

After run in (assuming survival) I need new injectors, fuel pump and cat back exhaust.

* 3 inch downpipe / sports cat
* Mutant K04 (stock compressor housing, turbo rebuilds hybrid chra and 15psi actuator, Chinese hotside) <- let's see if x-br333d works - if it doesn't... it doesn't !
* Oil feed pipe
* Pcv delete and catch can with new 19mm ID silicon hoses
* Forged PEC rifle drilled rods
* Rings
* Big End bearings
* ARP 2000 bolts connecting rod bolts
* Replaced damaged piston (thanks Bill)
* Cleaned oil pick up
* New sump
* Yellow powerflex dog bone engine mount
* Head repair, clean, skim
* Lapped inlet valves + replaced bent valve
* Lapped in some stelite chromed bi-metal exhaust valves dumped after a breakage and replaced with supertech inconel exhaust valves again lapped in with some news elring stem seals
* Stem seals
* Full elring head gasket kit including inlet and exhaust gaskets and cam seals
* VVT half moon gasket
* Elring Head bolts
* ARP Cam pulley bolt
* Vacuum silicon for FPR and DV
* Coolant flange
* New top timing cover (shaved to fit without cracking)
* Cleaned inlet manifold
* Chinafold exhaust manifold (ported with carbide drill bits)
* After-run water pump
* Nice new spring clips, jubilee clips, o rings, gaskets, copper flashed nuts, nordlock washers etc

Thanks again guys I couldn't of done this without the support of this forum.

Back on 4 wheels

---------------










shaved top timing cover (might have already posted this)










engine bay










-- I am actually really excited about driving this car even though slowly for a month or so.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Well done, you took advantage of a situation that may have ended up with another TT being broken, good luck with it


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

it was up on axle stands for so long I forgot how beautiful these cars are.

oh, and I know it wasn't the issue but I have put a bung into the observation hole for the ring gear


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Yeah i'm gonna order one of them bungs and tie some string to it :lol:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So MOT'd and 1st running in oil and filter change (50 miles.. was actually 35 miles but car had been idleing for too long getting coolant sorted and at MOT station) completed this morning, a whole 10 mins 

Followed by 140 mile round trip on actuator pressure (15psi) not going over 3000 rpm 'on load' 3500rpm on engine braking etc..

The turbo is spooling up from about 2500 rpm which is a little earlier.

I am using Miller's running in oil, and have so far (touch wood) not lost any coolant or oil. Still very early days.

I do have a 'cam shaft position sensor' error occurring occasionally. I am hoping this is the actual sensor, I was poking around today and the connection doesn't actually feel very stable. If it is the timing belt I will wait until the end of the engine running in.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Stuart, Are you still using the Millers mineral running-in oil, or only for the first 35 miles ?
Hoggy.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Hi Hoggy,

I used wilko mineral oil for the first 50 (34) miles, changed today with new filter and Miller's for the next 200 miles, then it will have one more filter and change to Miller's for 500 miles, before finally fully synthetic
(As advised by tuffty etc @asn)

Then start looking at what's going on with air and fuelling, to get some bigger injectors and fuel pump.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

just a brief update - I have done the tour of duty with the miller's oil and changed to quantum 10-40 and a new MANN filter and sump plug.

essentially blew two coils a couple of days before - not sure why - but I have ordered the R8 coils and adapters from AWESOME GTI










and have bought these Bosch 550cc injectors and ordered some chancer's adapters which will be here in a week or so I expect.










I have the boost controller plugged in and am experimenting but this car is a joke to drive normally at the moment it is like a 2 stroke 100c Motorbike either all or nothing or unsure at turbo spin-up   (this is between 2K and 3.5K pootling around the town) - I need to get in the new injectors + update my old fuel pump with a newer one (still stock 4 bar though) and read up about partial load PID settings on nefmoto, plus Bill is providing me some guidance but it has too many changes for a beginner like me to comprehend - it needs a professional's touch - but I will play around "carefully" whilst building the components. I did a short loaded run this morning and the turbo was still delivering 215g/s at 5500rpm ~21psi which would be where the energy in my previous stock k04 would start to tail off. This is with a "wastegate duty cycle" limited to 30% max, my previous stock setting was 94% max but it rarely reached that maybe 75%-80%, I wont pretend I know exactly what this means? this interesting article highlights that I will end up removing the sports cat and putting in a decat and buying a JR / Jetex filter 

http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/what-was ... bo-setups/


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So I spent a few hours at the weekend moving the timing belt as it was out a tooth. I did quite a big post on ASN about it but it was pretty damn fiddly as I wanted to try and avoid undoing much.

My adapters for Bosch injectors arrived and although not tested yet they do fit injectors and the cars loom.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Constructed Turbo Update -
Turbo Rebuilds Hybrid CHRA
+ Stock compressor housing
+ Chinese Turbo hotside

When I was rebuilding this engine I wasn't confident enough to invest crazy money on an AET Hybrid Turbo as made the above which worked out to only cost 300 quid or so.

A couple of weeks after running on actuator only pressure I started hearing a trrrrrrrtrrrrr noise occasionally on boost onset - although it still boosted okay and once I got new injectors and started logging and adjusting load the turbo continued to make this noise but happily boost to map sensor. Well over the last couple of weeks I started getting a bit of smoke after a hot run when blipping gas and stationary, and the noise has got worse then a screech yesterday so the turbo has given up.

As I don't appear to have any engine internals (fingers crossed) I will invest in a decent hybrid turbo if this is the only issue.

So I am looking forward to taking the turbo off hopefully this weekend and perform a post mortem. I believe that the Chinese hotside had cracked or warped and the trrrrtrrr was the turbine touching the hotside under boost if the chra has failed on its own I will get back to turbo rebuilds for them to advise.

When I was running this home constructed turbo it happily boosted up to ~1.6 bar (sensor limit) but I struggled to get over 220g/s - I was happily able to get from 200g/s at about 4800rpm onwards even from a low boost load.

As I said I am aiming to get this one out and I will put my stock k04 back in whilst getting finances together for AET.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

As posted in the 'blown turbo' thread removed the turbo today. 
Air filter, catch can, TIP removed.
Charge pipe off
3 bolts out the Chinafold
3 bolts out the downpipe
Drained coolant
Drained oil
Removed oil drain from sump
Removed coolant drain from block
Loosened coolant feed from block
Removed turbo bracket bolt
Removed EGT from turbo
Shifted turbo to the side over gearbox and removed coolant feed and oil feed from top of turbo.

Slid out turbo over gear box.

Looks okay... I was planning on replacing this assuming it was just rubbish, but after examining the components I cannot see anything obvious that is wrong. So rather than pay out for a new turbo I will put a stock turbo back in just to make sure it's not inside the engine.

The Trrrrtrrrrr noise from a few weeks after getting the engine running followed now by a screech on boost really does 'feel' turbo related. But there's no signs of excessive movement compared to the stock or the Chinese turbo chra. So I will put in other half of the Chinese turbo (compressor housing and chra) and stock; albeit cracked 'hot side'

If it doesn't make the same noise I will get the new AET370 hybrid.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So... at lunchtime, I decided to fit a different stock(ish) k04 turbo in the hope that there's no weird noises or screeching which will allow me to invest in an AET370 hybrid. If there is still dodgy noises I need to determine whether they are camshaft or crankshaft, or small ends. I really hope the noise is from the turbo... I was so sad when it looked perfect when I took it to pieces. The only glimmer of hope is the Chinese hotside penny wastegate seemed really stiff maybe bent? I was warned 

What I have fitted was my stock (albeit cracked, but polished) hot side joined up to a new Chinese compressor housing and CHRA. You might recall the nightmare of the Chinese hotside, tiny wastegate opening and incorrectly located turbo to manifold opening (template used upside down gasket)

Once I finally managed to get the oil and coolant feed pipes connected with my massive ham fists, I couldn't align the turbo to the Chinafold manifold. The Chinese compressor housing is slightly different meaning I needed to shave off an edge. I gave up at lunch to think about it and after walking the dogs this evening found my old hacksaw and snapped the blade in half and managed to trim off an edge. I think a stock k04 kkk has a larger compressor housing.

I have done it up with no gaskets. The only goal of this is to drive 5 miles to see if it boosts without screeching and doesn't dump a load of oil, I'm not getting my hopes up though as like I said there's nothing obviously wrong with the turbo, no oil in compressor tube, no oil around turbine.

Below is what I had to do just to bolt the manifold to the turbo, I did think about removing it and rotating the chra slightly clockwise but because it's shorter it wouldn't have helped.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

To update, i put a completely different turbo on - finished with the pipe work today. This is just to make sure the dry screeching noise was from the turbo and not from anything more sinister (cam shaft, crank journals, small end)

Well I have refilled with oil and coolant ran for 20 minutes let it cool and topped up and then swapped over cars to allow another short warm up period as baby sitting grand kids, then drinking beer ( yes they go hand in hand )

So... my first committed run is going to work tomorrow.. that feels risky. After so many bits were taken off my car.

I am going to update the map to cater for a stock K04 although I don't believe the actuator is only 6psi, so I will still leave the n75 unplugged on the way into work and take some oil and coolant (just in case)


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Good luck

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well I made it to work 17 miles, no loss of coolant or oil and out at lunch then home again. But I haven't gone over 4k rpm or 16psi. I need to do these loaded runs close to home, incase it pops a hose off or dumps the coolant etc. 
I personally think there's a boost leak as a get a turbo whistle from 2700rpm and that is only just starting to spool up, unless I have spent so long listening out for the thudding noise I was getting from that abomination of a hybrid I constructed. I have purposely omitted fitting the turbo support bracket bolt and the oil feed bracket allen cap head, and done up the EGT sensor as a reminder to keep me driven to buying a full blown hybrid. If I find the turbo combination doesn't cause oil to be burnt on engine re-start after a hot run and there is no more 'thudding' followed by a dry screech. I will approach turbo rebuilds to see if they can take my turbo apart and see any damage.

Talking to my work mate at lunch about getting enjoyment from the project, rather than the car.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Have you eliminated prop and down pipe contact from being the reason for the screeching ? you most prob have a boost leak, when i had a similar issue it was a one way valve that is connected to the evap system, the rubber and metal pipe that runs from the inlet manifold up towards the bulk head has a round black&grey valve.


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Keep at it mate. I admire your journey and perseverance.
Keep at it.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The screeching was definitely not an external sound, it was load based, which started at 7k rpm then eventually down to 4k rpm and billowed out oil smoke on a re-start.

I don't have any valves etc the inlet is blocked off for the PCV valve . Only FPR and DV and the Oil filter goes to catch can.

There's bore much to leak, but the whistle does disappear once under some load.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

7k rpm  hopefully it's a turbo issue and engine related.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well ~6900rpm, that's why I hated doing these logging runs, being advised to drive to the red line with different wastegate settings was a nightmare. Then when people look at the logs and say 'hey the actuator is too tight, reduce the preload and do the logs again' grrrr and because it's on the road you can only see what happened rather than what's happening. Although from most of my logs the car kept within limits IATs ~30, EGT 850-900, lambda at target 0.82 but because of this oil or whatever was causing the smoke it's knocked out the post cat sensor.

I will take the car for a local run today, with my son in law as support vehicle just in case  as I said hopefully only for long enough to confirm the issue was turbo related, rather than something more sinister.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Good luck with it, you'll get it sorted in the end


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well thankfully the engine this morning with a rather conservative turbo map, didn't make any dodgy noises. So that's positive. Then I updated the wrong map and it was hitting map sensor limits and popping banging and kagarooing from about 3k rpm.

Just crazy innit. Rolled it back to the previous safe map. Try again tomorrow


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

A quick little update
1. Got the diagnosis back from turbo rebuilds regarding the screeching CHRA and smoke, and am receiving it back tomorrow rebuilt. I did have to buy a new billet compressor wheel (which I damaged when I used the puller to remove the CHRA - they pointed out some fins which were bent and would unbalance it possibly leading to the worn bearings. and have rebuilt it as part of a goodwill gesture as only 6 months old. I am hoping that rebuilt means replacing the damaged bearings - I will find out I suppose when refit it.

some images of the marks










































2. With my practicing to see how far the stock turbo can be pushed, I am ordering a dw65v replacement in-tank fuel pump - if I am maxing the turbo out, this hits the map sensor limit you can see the injectors are also maxed out at 95% duty cycle 19ms on-time per 20ms pulse width <-- maybe not quite the right terms.










just rolling back the requested load a small amount takes the maf back by about 10g/s to about 216g/s but is 75% duty cycle 15/20ms and obviously not the crazy retard degrees. so once fitted a new pump I will retest the same map and also fit a 4 FPR which I have here somewhere and adjust the injectors for a higher pressure which will turn them into 630cc.

this is the current map's log where the load is wound back a bit, you can see the fuel injector on time is down to 15ms and the retard degree columns much better


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So fitted hybrid turbo back in last weekend and as soon as adding coolant it just ran out the bottom of the turbo (coolant return flange). I bought a teeny-tiiiineey socket set and even trimmed the 8mm hex bit to try and get the coolant return bolt out. I cleaned it up a couple of times as could undo it but not remove it as the manifold was in the way.










so after 2 attempts, lots of aches - bruises - pain and suffering and 3 hours, I decided to remove the turbo again! 40 minutes later - I had the turbo removed and in the conservatory (I really should have simply started with this!)



















Happily, this is (must be) the problem - I am unsure how I managed to put this on, I cannot believe I saw it like this and put it on, I wonder whether it was "slightly warped" and this happens to copper crush washers if they are warped and then crushed?

I did purposely put aside this "oil feed" crush washer which was in the same packet and warped?










Any ideas about my coolant return washer? like overtightened, tweaked etc?

I will hopefully put it back in tomorrow.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Bin them and fit new that should fix it, you must be to remove a turbo with your eyes closed by now :lol:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah..

Drain oil
Drain Coolant
2 x 5mm oil turbo to sump + 1 x 6mm retainer bracket
8mm coolant turbo to block
17mm EGT from above
13mm turbo support bracket from above
Lower turbo 3 x 17mm Chinafold to turbo
17mm (firewall) down pipe to turbo, retrieve nordlocks - from above
17mm × 2 down pipe to turbo retrieve nordlocks + gasket
Remove 2 of 3 17mm from manifold to turbo include nordlocks( last bolt stays in place undone)
Wiggle turbo out of bracket, rotate to expose coolant feed and oil feed.
6mm oil feed bracket retaining caphead.
8mm oil feed retrieve banjo bolt and washers
8mm coolant feed retrieve banjo bolt and washers

Wiggle - check below - wiggle - check above - wiggle - check below - wiggle

Stop the clock....

Do 10 squat thrusts.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I hope I don't have to do this again (unless a new setup)
Its easy to undo bango bolts but still a real pain in the rear to get them done up. Well the oil feed on top of the turbo took two hours I even tried a different bolt. Its the alignment which needs to be perfect with a crush washer underneath it, laying over the engine reaching around the right side of the manifold. With my glasses steaming up... grrr.. in the end I even put the coolant feed bango bolt in just to try and align the oil feed bango..
Next time I will remove the other end of the oil feed pipe to give a tiny bit more movement.

I am learning all the little tricks... like loosely connecting the manifold to turbo to get to top and back studs but making sure the downpipe is not hooked up behind a stud etc.

It gets even more frustrating when kids and grandkids need to see you...

But car has done 20 miles now 1st test drive after finishing last night was to petrol station then to work. After 100 problem free miles, I will do some power logs / map tweaks - then fit the toyosports 3 inch cat back


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Would'nt fitting the toyo before final tweaks be a be a better idea, as a less restrictive ( if it is ) system should gain better results.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Of course, but I want to map and log it before and then after to see the gains (if any).
Although, this turbo was rebuilt it still makes the original trrrrrrrrrr sound, it definitely is not rubbing, this must (hopefully) simply be a property of the turbo.
I will ask them about it. If it packs in again, I reckon big turbo next


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Hurry up and get it fitted. I need some hard evidence of the toyosport exhaust

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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

So how is the performance at the moment, i know it's early days but you must have a feeling of yay or nay and you must be thinking about clutch replacement shortly after.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I'm wondering whether the trrrrrr might be the actuator. When this was happening before it made no difference to the actual boost. The actuator I have is a 14.7 psi and maybe this is too much.

I had great fun with the stock turbo and 11psi actuator trying different profiles. That whistled when it shouldn't have, I don't get that with this one.

I only managed 230g/s with it last time, which I also just about managed with the stock one. But last time i was hitting 200g/s at 4900rpm which is 250bhp just cruising around, but I struggled with ignition timing retard every time I pushed the load. So I was 2 steps forward 1 step back. I do have a posh new fuel pump to try though. We'll see I can't push it when I'm on the way to or home from work and I just want to check for fluid loss. Hence taking my time building up again.

I am undecided on how to join the toyosports. There's about 4 options with the kit.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So did a log on the refitted hybrid today.. I need to reset and start again - it is so fricking noisy but I am not sure if the noise is air / stall etc etc, but I think I might change the actuator for the 11psi one I had on the stock turbo setup - you can't quite change it / in situ - almost, but I dont think you can undo the top actuator bolt because the coolant feed bango is in the way, I should have thought about that - as I reckon I could have trimmed the bolt by 2mm and it would be removable. I actually loved the last of the stock turbo setup bundles of lowdown torque then reduced the loading to keep the ignition advance in the upper revs. I am sure I will get something to work out, I messaged TurboRebuilds to say the TRRRRRR sound is still happening but there is no screeching or smoke. It doesn't sound metallic, but there is a new noise after boost (eg gearchange) which I'm assuming is stall hence the thoughts about the actuator. It is supposed to be 1 bar but I can only move it with a spanner as a lever. I wonder if it is like 20psi instead. this is a snapshot of the log showing desired boost and actual boost in a short run.

you can see the desired boost dropping slightly but the actual boost going nuts - I will need to do the work to fix the wastegate duty cycle and run the tool to create the PID tables.. I should wait until after the exhaust for this - as I dislike redlining and after putting maybe 50 different map tweaks tests etc and then doing a couple of log runs I dont want to add on another 20 3rd gear pulls.










does anyone who has a hybrid notice a different sound, these turbos spin at 100,000 RPM or something hence why I dont think it is metallic as a TRRRR sound would mean it is hitting every 100 rotations so cannot be.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

well..... now I remember the buzz you get when you buy something with a credit card.

AET VT262C 370 is on it's way - fricken expensive! - I will have to be really careful with this - starting with some real baby steps.

_I am going to complain and take apart the Turbo-Rebuilds Turbo CHRA. wont go into it all right now, but I reckon the actuator I bought from them doesn't work properly, the original CHRA broke down early and after 1 day, it made a noise, then started leaking oil etc etc they gave me a reciept stating that every component was replaced but any touch on the turbo eg 2700rpm it was going TRRRRR hen put in - now after a log and some crazy boost I have a rubbing sound even though it is still creating 17/18psi with the N75 unplugged. This annoyed me a I had a great experience with the stock rated turbo- I set it to something - logged a run and then check and changed it and repeated the process. I will take it apart and compare to the photos they sent to me after 4000 miles._

anyway back to the fun part. I wont change the turbo until the new one arrives but I must make sure that this rubbing es lead to bits of metal getting sucked through the turbo intercoooler then trashing my delicate flower of an engine  I am sort of hoping that
1) key installation change I will make, is to remove the oil filter housing connecting bango for the oil feed pipe, before connecting to the Turbo.
2) leaving before a failure, hoping that no bits of metal will travel through the engine

I know this is expensive, but I always had a proper turbo in the plan, I just hoped this halfway house hybrid CHRA was the answer, but I had a great time mapping the stock turbo, and I am looking forward to try take this apart. Might need to sell on my 117s and get some 123s )

The thing I am looking forward to is that hopefully the hotside inlet will look and align the chinafold neatly, along with a decent wastegate connected and adjusted correctly


```
Turbo Specification

So what's involved to make a *370bhp rated hybrid turbo ?
•K16 custom turbine wheel with cutback exducer blades
•AET 360 Motorsport thrust bearing upgrade
•Total seal turbine piston ring upgrade
•2283 Billet compressor wheel 7/7 blades
•CNC re-profiled turbine and compressor housing
•Enlarged and flowed wastegate
•Ported turbine inlet
```


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

What's 117s

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

117s Bosch 550 injectors
123s Bosch 630 injectors


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Oh right. Good price I may buy

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

posh new turbo has arrived. I need some help regarding a turbo to manifold gasket. I know the ideal is to go gasketless but I cannot do this as I haven't machined the chinafold mating surface. an ideas on getting some other turbo gasket with a good opening and making new holes or whatever? I suppose it just needs to have something to crush to be sealed?










if I measure the opening is it just a matter of getting a gasket big enough for the inlet and simply drilling in new holes?


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2521131185

I bloody look after you. This stuff is the triple layer metal gasket

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Arhhh thanks, you do look after me Hogg, sometimes a second set of eyes or lateral mind comes up with a solution immediately. I was still thinking about this earlier morning, wondering about a bigger turbo gasket being repurposed. I know the toyosports compressed gaskets just burn and blow out even in the downpipe, and there's massive back pressure in this chamber, there's no harm in trying this.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I used to be a parts advisor lol

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Still not fitted the super-dooper AET VT262C (370BHP) hybrid turbo (mainly due to lack of suitable gasket - I will try and make one) - but I have been mucking about with this turbo-rebuilds CHRA with the ported Chinese hotside and standard compressor housing. what I seem to be experiencing is a distinct inability to push it much past 280BHP @ 6000RPM (just get too much knock) I have some crazy mapped 350 ft_lb logs (from ECUPLOT only remember) - which are just for a second or so, so I am trying to smooth that out to get back to where I was when it was cold - I really think the ambient air temperate makes a different a log this morning on BP 97 had much less knock at 14 degrees centigrade than a log on the same road this afternoon with Tesco Momentum 99 at 26 degrees centigrade.

I am essentially trying to align the actual boost with the desired boost (this I think / hope) is the PID - once I am closer I will be able to trust the load % -> Boost ((LOAD * 10) + 300) - 1000 = desired boost in mbar.

this is the low powered run this morning which had a small amount of knock degrees registered on cylinder 3 from 5750rpm (but in the afternoon was just rubbish)










but the great thing about this low powered run is someone in their £28,000 2019 Peugeot 308GTi tried and failed to be quicker than a 17 year old TT with 126000 miles - and yes they were trying  - although, I bet it only cost them 40pence in petrol instead of £7 for 25 miles 

this is what I mean about getting a lot of torque (maybe 28psi) but I am trying to align the desired with the actual. not just let the engine go wild! this is actually hard work, once I have fitted the grown-ups hybrid turbo - instead of my homemade jobbie, I will use the nefarious guide for setting up the PID for pre-control. I am just annoyed I get so much knock over 5500 and because of this cannot get the MAF g/s I could back at the beginning of the year.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Finally got round to a relaxing few days to:
Friday- drop coolant, oil, remove charge pipe/tip/maf and air filter (25 mins)
Saturday - get coolant return and oil return pipework removed, downpipe and manifold released, oil and coolant feed pipes removed, get turbo out 50mins
Sunday - overnight grandchildren babysitting so got turbo in, downpipe on, coolant and oil returns on, added coolant and new oil and oil filter (no leaks) - 45 mins
Monday- after baby sitting and dropping one grandchild at nursery, I expected 1. Youngest son to look after younger granddaughter and (not agnes) to simply add manifold to turbo gasket and fit charge pipe tip etc. Nope, no, nada - simply couldn't get the hotside to align with the manifold. I can't believe the almost £1k AET turbo was not clocked to ensure it can be fitted to a relatively normal car... I even took to trying to trim a little bit (1mm) off the manifold and push it across but the oil feed pipe was too close to a manifold to head bolt.

In the end I removed the fluids and turbo and rotated the compressor housing 1mm anti clockwise and the hotside 2mm clockwise to hopefully allow the oil, coolant, manifold and downpipe to fit at the same time....

The instructions did not suggest this will need adjustment to fit. #grrr


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

My best purchase has been ball end Allen keys, using an 8mm ball end Allen key to do up the oil feed and coolant feed knocked off 2 hours compared to the nightmare I had before... there is a lot of balancing copper seals in place, but no longer the requirement of a foot long arrangement of extension bars being dead straight into the top of the chra. £8 from wilko


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

What an arse

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I just take the dogs for a walk, walking is an amazing remedy for stress...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

first run after driving to work and then home this evening, this is with the N75 electronically disconnected - a bit of a concern that the actuator is so high - it is averaging 17psi with 0% WGDC that doesn't leave much in the way of control. I will see whether it is perhaps adjustable?

also the car is so damn noisy now I cannot hear myself think - will check fluids tomorrow to make sure the oil is still there and the coolant too, then start again 

Only drove up to 5500rpm as need to make sure there's not something wrong with the nuts and bolts.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

StuartDB said:


> also the car is so damn noisy now I cannot hear myself think - will check fluids tomorrow to make sure the oil is still there and the coolant too, then start again


  :?

Hoggy.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

the amount of coolant and oil connections and banjo's undone and done up again - it's always good to make sure I dont have a leak  but the exhaust is just noisy between 3000 and 4000 rpm - and my test drive yesterday after finally getting the turbo fitted onto the manifold involved getting it up to temperature, and when I got home from work either front fan or one of those ancillaries or tensioner is noisy, I do actually have a new tensioner bearing it might be time to fit that.

I think the issue with the high actuator only pressure is because I had to adjust the turbo by rotating the compressor housing 1mm and the hotside a couple of mm to stop the oil feed pipe fouling cylinder 4 manifold to head bolts - I reckon that has altered the pre-load - ho-hum charge pipe off, 1mm loosen and do up again - I should probably use next doors compressor to test it properly.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

so has anyone seen this before I seem to be having the throttle plate shutting - is this being blown shut by the hybrid - or on purpose to try and limit the load?

This is from my stock turbo you can see pedal 100% throttle plate 100%










20% WGDC cuts the throttle - this is going to about 25psi










15% WGDC cuts he throttle - this is under the map sensor limit and much less load


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## A_Banging_Donk (Apr 22, 2017)

Throttle cut due to positive boot deviation, increase your request or reduce WGDC


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks I was just wondering whether the ldrxn was too low.. for some reason I assumed that fixed wgdc would override that but I suppose it's dropping the power by adjusting the throttle plate. Clever things these 20 year old cars aren't they, it makes sense really.

I did set it low as I'm sure the actuator is still too tight. 
16psi at 0% 18.5 at 10% 23 at 15% and about 25 at 20%


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

@a_banging_donk
Right so... do you think both my analysis logs (15 and 20 wgdc) for setting up PID are going to be trash because the throttle plate will be restricting the flow so the map sensor will be over-reading?

I reckon another 3 years and I'll have the basics sorted out


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## A_Banging_Donk (Apr 22, 2017)

Yeah, those logs are not going to give you a good result. There are other bits in CWMDAPP you can set to prevent this intervention from happening. You should have CWMDAPP set to 8 so that you can use KFLDRAPP for fixed DC. I would try setting CWMDAPP to 9.. just for your linearisation runs. Remember though that you are turning off a safety feature.. 737-max, soviet RBMK reactor, you get my point :mrgreen:

Unless you plan to stay below the MAP limit with WGDC in the teens, you really need to get a 4 bar+ MAP sensor and do the 5120 hack. Also, check that CWPLGU is 1, we cannot use the feed-forward method properly on files which has this set to 0 (like my 018BH). It's a compile-time option, setting it in the file will not do anything, you need to patch the ASM (I've been running this for a few months now, works a treat).


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

hmm thanks, I was considering using open loop boost control - rather than staying on closed loop and adding the 5120 hack along with a new sensor; although - I will revisit that in nefmoto to consider this again.

this throttle cut is actually negative deviation by the sounds of it - I was already running with codeword 8 to build the logs to set up pre-control


```
Calibrating KFLDRL
[u]CWMDAPP (0x181BD) = 8 along with KFLDRAPP [/u]
KFLDRL along with KFLIMX can also be completely re-tasked to provide a feed-forward (pre-control) factor to the existing PID, greatly increasing the stability and tunability of the PID as a whole. See this feed forward PID discussion on Nefmoto.

[u]Negative deviation (overboost)[/u]
If you don't get all of this just right, and your actual boost goes too far above requested boost (by ~200mBar), you may experience overboost throttle cut due to negative deviation, which is ME attempting to get boost back under control by temporarily closing the throttle plate. If it happens enough, and an I-Regulation adaptation value reaches its negative limit, you may get a P1555 - Negative Deviation DTC, and the car will go in limp mode (permanent 0% WGDC).
```
I had actually also altered KFDLULS to stop overboost issues since running these hybrids, whilst trying to get the PID right with the previous turbo mappings but that was taking maybe 20 runs to align it based on human eyes and retesting, where pre control should only take a few runs and the LDRAPP tool - just scared of an explosion running blind   - it is nice to see 218g/s at 4400rpm though just need to carry that torque in a straight line with no knocking. dropped the timing and added some fuel above 5500rpm at high loading - the big problem with the throttle cut is it made the load less therefore the fuelling was low on my lamfa as only 70% desired.










I keep thinking - aha this new map update will sort it out.. [smiley=book2.gif]

decided to roll back to doing it the slow way, creeping up from low and setting the max actuator to 23% as I know a 20% is drivable but all my PID is less than 23% if it hits 23 it is going past my settings.

_also I have the occasional log with gear 2 in the selected gear column for a few rows - sadly I think this must be clutch slip as the gear is worked out between vehicle speed and RPM so the RPM must be increasing when the speed sensor isn't seeing more speed from the gearbox. - when I say "occasional" I dont mean in an occasional log it is nearly always in the log but only for a few rows usually grouped together at about 4000rpm_


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## A_Banging_Donk (Apr 22, 2017)

Ah yeah, that's what I meant, was thinking the other way round.

Numbing overboost diagnosis might do it but I'd have to check the FR.

What's the actuator pressure meant to be? 10psi? You're seeing much more than that aren't you?

Plotting vehicle speed against rpm in ECUxPlot should show clutch slip pretty clearly


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I think it is supposed to be 1 bar - it is a Turbosmart IWG75 fitted on the AET VT262C (this is not the posh B5 VT262E) as that requires half a V2.2 TIP and I have a V3 TIP

the thing is I struggled to get it to fit the chinafold and the oil feed was hitting the manifold bolts, so clocked it slightly 1 mm on compressor housing and 2mm the other way on hot side - which would have added increased the pre-load during the twist - so I do need to try and get it back to 2mm pre-load but I undid it 1 turn which dropped it on 0 WGDC from 18.5 PSI to about 16psi and when I undid it another turn it made no difference still about 16 psi - so assumed that was where it is. I might revisit it and try again, as I am pretty limited in PID adjustment dealing with 1 or 2 percent instead of 5 or 10 percent. I also ended up cutting back 1mm of the compressor housing which was up against the chinafold outside of the cyl4/collector ( I reckon I needed to originally grind some of the outside of the cylinder 4 to collector but wasn't sure how thick this was after porting the inside of it - this probably led to the premature failure of the turbo-rebuilds CHRA as it was so close it was maybe pushing on the compressor housing when fully bolted up)

the whole purchase of this turbo through aet-turboshop seems a little weird, it was 100 quid cheaper than aetmotorsport - was supposed to have a surcharge unless I returned my own - didn't have the actuator as a costed extra. they have not answered a single email regarding any possible gaskets as it is ported to 45mm instead of 41.5mm hotside port or about sending in my old turbo to avoid the surcharge? weird

Thanks I will look at plotting speed / rpm - maybe it is just a quirk in me7logger, I only noticed this gear 2 issue as I filter for gear 3 only in ECUplot and was getting a gap. sometimes it is one row other times 3 or 4 rows.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well with the never ending hobby / project which the TT is (and I am happy about that) - I have decided to pick up a phenolic spacer and new inlet manifold gaskets with new longer bolts. I am "sort of" running out of feasible "parts" to buy - I have a new MAF this month £70 final value for a BAM MAF pretty good value (Genuine Bosch from GSF sealed). and then perhaps long term purchase of meth injection afterwards, but that is big money. I change the map virtually everyday and run a log analyse the RPM, MAF, boost, ignition retard, EGT, intake temps, fuel and timing - really just obsessed to try and align the actual boost with the requested boost, I am not sure about re-doing this with a 5120 hack as the general consensus is aim for 1.6bar early on tapering down to 1.1 bar and 1.6 bar is not worth the extra effort and hardship with the recalibration, also I should probably redo the preload on the actuator to widen the scale of the Wastegate Duty Cycle.

I never really got the boost pre-control working properly (my issue was the fixed wastegate is all well and good but if there is intervention or a load of knocking detected then the log is throw-a-way) - essentially all I am doing is looking at a desired boost curve and adjust the PID to match that from run the run.

I do keep getting "MAF High Point Reached" but that, I believe is partial throttle related - when it is still getting quite a high load at low desired torque and exceeded a limit ( still PID related I expect)


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

You have more patients than me

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Patience for what? I drive the car everyday, mapping and logging is pretty much free, got to keep moving forwards.. as I have said on numerous occasions the only good thing about a mk1 TT is that it can be modified, if it's not used as a toy it's just 25mpg 34 miles a day sitting in an uncomfortable noisy car, better off with a golf tdi and get 70mpg and have some comfort. These cars are so basic compared to a similar aged cheaper priced merc or s-type jag. If it's not a project, it's pretty pointless


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Winner, 42 quids for a spacer, gaskets and bolts... once I have that fitted; I will be 900bhp  - I'll probably need a bigger speedo that goes all the way around.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So I thought I had blown a hose whilst testing fixed wastegate duty cycle at 20%

This I have never seen before!


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

Nothing a couple wraps of tape couldn't fix!  :roll:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I have some spares, just flummoxed of the cause.

What I am struggling with is getting the actuator set up at 0% wastegate it is still 16psi. I think I'm going to have to only have 1 turn of preload.

Quite good low knocking, although every run is different of course, I had 2 good runs and one bad.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So this is the reason the lid blew off my Non-Bosch 710p.

Diaphragm split so charge pressure was in the chamber instead of held back by the diaphragm, I reckon this may have been also leading to other issues too as there is positive pressure going down the vacuum hose into the inlet manifold instead of via the map sensor.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Never seen or heard of such a failure, that's most probably been on it's way for a while whilst causing a few running issues.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah... I had heard of diaphragm failures, but not one blowing to pieces; looking at the bits I found laying around the engine bay it looks like these non bosch are just glued together, there's a bit missing still though, some form of slider. I won't use it tomorrow, just in-case it fell in the TIP. I really don't want a couple of quid's worth of plastic destroying a thousand pound turbo.


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