# Rusty rear subframe/suspension - a few questions



## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

This weekend I disassembled the whole of the rear suspension, all went surprisingly well with only two badly corroded bolts to cut out.

The rust is only surface to both suspension and underboot floor area so nothing too nasty, but unsightly none the less, a few bushes look due for changing so I believe I have caught this at just the right time.

I am now in a dilemma as how to tackle the next stages, which I have broken down into three possible options.

1 - Replace all parts (other than subframe - that will be shot blasted and painted/powder coated) with new V.A.G parts - that's bolts, bushes, arms, shocks etc estimated cost?? Would be around £1000 plus

The reality of this is that it's not cost effective and so will probably not happen

2 - Replace all parts (other than subframe - that will be shot blasted and painted/powder coated) with new after market parts - that's bolts, bushes, arms, shocks etc I have been trawling eBay/buycarparts etc and it seems the parts could be around
£500 ish including the cost of the sub frame refurb (estimate about £100)

This seems a good option, but I am concerned about using pattern parts, although after some initial research amongst friends and online it seems that the standard of parts from sone manufacturers is to a very high O.E.M standard, it's just getting used to the names...Febi, Lemforder, Mapco amongst many.

Funnily enough, from my initial fears I have discovered that one of the above mention brands are O.E.M suppliers to ahigh end German car maker! 

Another good thing about using this option is that it will cut my physical input down allowing me to get on with the boot floor.

3 - Renovate all metal parts - Subframe, arms and metal components at a local shot/sand blasting company and replace bolts/bushes/shocks with new. I am unsure of price but would probably end up costing more than option 2 in terms of time and money.

The big advantage would be that the suspension arm pressings would all be original, but does this really matter? Some parts after all would be pitted from the rust even after blast cleaning and recoating.

I would need to drop the metal work off without any bushes, that's fine as I intend to replace them anyway, but it's a 40 mike trip to a garage I use to remove and then replace once the metal work has been cleaned and coated.

So my questions are:-

Is using original/genuine V.A.G parts important?

Anyone have any aftermarket horror stories regards suspension components?

What brands to avoid?

Should I consider using updated bushes like Powerflex?

Any input will be greatfully received.

For a laugh/gasp of horror, a picture of the task ahead....


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## r_turner01 (Sep 12, 2018)

Looks a great job you are doing here.

As far as bushes go, my thought would be to go for powerflex, as they are poly bushes not rubber, therefore they are a fit once and forget item, and if you are going to all this trouble, why not go for the upgrade, and come away with a better handling car as a result!

Mine is going to get the complete bush kit done as part of the chassis upgrade, thankfully mine is rust free already!

Richard


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Funnily enough I spoke to a fella at a local garage and he said that some of the bushes were not available separately, this put a spanner in the spokes...

I then went to the powder coaters and he said why not use powerflex bushes, an added bonus is that you don't need a press to pop them in, I will do a little research.


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

r_turner01 said:


> they are poly bushes not rubber, therefore they are a fit once and forget item


while I agree that poly bushes are a performance improvement, and probably the best choice here, they're hardly a "fit and forget" replacement... poly bushings deform plastically over time, compacting under compression and eventually requiring a refresh. look at most poly engine mounts after 10-15k miles you'll see these effects, provided they aren't of a molar-jarring durometer rating. same goes for the front control arm bushing that people frequently replace with poly. I expect that they'd last much longer in the rear suspension than front, but would still be wise to inspect more frequently than rubber.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I did a little research and they are way too expensive for me, a rough estimate is nearly £500 just for the rear!


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## John949 (Apr 12, 2017)

On the subject of non-Audi parts, remember that VAG do not make all the parts of your car, they buy in many parts from a huge range of suppliers / manufacturers. If you buy a bought in part from Audi you will be paying the price the OEM charged Audi plus Audi's markup. If you an buy it direct from the suppliers then you are getting exactly the same part for significantly less money.

The car manufacturers mark-up is/was so big that it became commercially viable for third party firms to buy parts from the OEMs and then sell them on to the general public. This is how Euro Car Parts and German & Swedish started business. The problem is of course sorting out the real OEM part from the cheap copies. Many traders are a bit economical with the truth when they claim that they are selling OEM parts. Often what they are saying is that company X supplies at least one part to Audi so therefore everything that company makes is an OEM Audi part.

Personally I would hardly ever buy a 'genuine' suspension part. I'm new to Audis but have owned various BMWs for many years and have had good success with Lemforder, Febi(Bilstein) and Meyle. Some genuine pats are not as good as they could be and occasionally third party companies produce parts that are better than the originals e.g. Powerflex and Meyle.

I have used poly bushes on several cars previously and they do seem to last well, however they can be significantly stiffer than the originals with a consequential impact on the ride. For me the big advantage is that they can be fitted without a press. Carefully saw the old one out and no press required. I do have one horror story about them though. I replaced the inner wishbone bushes on my MGF with Poly ones but they were so tight that they prevented the wishbone turning as the suspension moved, instead the wishbone flexed when I hit a bump. The eventual out come is shown below.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Hi John

Some great advice there, thank you.

I have been looking at the (apparently) sister company to Euro Car Parts - Buy Car Parts and have been getting prices for the parts needed from Lenforder/Sachs/Mapco. I was unsure of Meyle, but it seems they are ok? Mapco seem to be a big brand but I know nothing of them, I read that Lemforder are O.E.M for some parts for Porsche, so that's good enough for me! 

In the past I have used Powerflex bushes on a few cars cars - Ford XRs/RSs etc with great success, can't believe how much they have gone up!  This car is a weekender for two old biddys (Wife & I) so a harsh ride is something I really don't want, life can be bad enough.... 

I see you mention an MGF, I once had a TF160, was you a member of the MG-Rover website?

Update

I have been running around getting ideas and prices and at the moment it's looking like the most cost/time effective way to deal with this project is to buy all new suspension components from Buy Car Parts, Lemforder are my top choice at present.

The upper/lower wishbones, tie rods, trailing arms, drop links are coming in at around £270.

I went to the powder coaters and they gave me a price for the subframe, anti roll bar and all the parts mentioned above (and in the picture in the initial post) of around £200. But if I do buy new parts that will have to be adjusted as I will only be getting the subframe, trailing arm/chassis connector boxes, anti roll bar and springs ( noticed a tiny amount of rust on each one when removed) shot blasted and powder coated.

Bushes are working out around £60 for the dozen or so needed, I was told by a fella at a garage that it's cheaper, in the long run, to simply replace the whole assembly rather than re-bush, he's sort of right. Cost wise new is dearer, but not by much, but there is time running around dropping off and picking up to be added. I would still like to go this way, my heart says yes, my head says no... 

New bolts (Lemforder) are coming in at around £60

On a quick inspection of the boot floor it does need a little tickle up here and there, but it's not worth getting over animated about it, I will know/see more once I have steam cleaned it. I have seen much worse corrosion, but NEVER on a 9 year old car! My opinion of Audi quality is a little shell shocked at the moment...


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## r_turner01 (Sep 12, 2018)

happychappy said:


> I did a little research and they are way too expensive for me, a rough estimate is nearly £500 just for the rear!


Would be worth speaking to Awesome GTi, ask for Stephen he really knows his stuff. They are also UK suppliers of all things powerflex.

I am not affiliated with them in any way but I will be having the full kit myself from them along with some other work hopefully not to long from now!

Rich


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

To be honest after some considered thought I am going for the standard bushes, from memory the Powerflex bushes made one of my cars very harsh, maybe the compound has been changed?

Anyway the cost far exceeds what I am willing to pay, I would rather that money go to other things that I will be tackling soon.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Dare to post a pic of the trunk floor area without the suspension blocking the view? Even though these mk2 are mostly aluminium but the rear section is steel and can rust. My car has been dailydriven for the 12 years (and almost 270k km) of service in harsh finnish weather. Though what I have seen pictures of undercarriages on uk cars we can't compete, you guys have a serious problem with rust because of the climate.

The trunk floor area from below on my car looks like it could use a little cleanup and I might aswell do something similar to it next summer when I have my summer car on the road. To keep it from getting worse. Suspension parts look fine on mine, just dirty.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Not the best pictures, but it gives you an idea.


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## trev1964 (Oct 10, 2018)

This is going to be a big issue for most owners over the coming years. Mine was a mess. 
Not the isolated incident that some people suspected it was. 
Lots of MK 2 TT's gonna fail mots on corrosion at the rear over the coming years.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Totally agree Tev.

I am so glad I caught it sooner rather than later!

There are many saying that their car is fine, I thought this until I delved a little deeper....

There is minimal protection paint and wax in this steel boot area and unless you know where to look you may well pass yur car off as fine, however, as a rule of thumb, if your subframe/wishbones/shocks are rusty then next time it's up on a ramp have a good look past the suspension components towards the boot floor/fuel tank area, it may be only a little surface rust at the moment, but that will soon escalate.

Hopefully people will read this and make themselves aware of what may well be going on in the deepest darkest Bowles of their cars.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Do you guys drive your cars in the winter??


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## cancellara27 (Aug 17, 2018)

Is there anything recommended to put on the steel to prevent it from rusting?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

cancellara27 said:


> Is there anything recommended to put on the steel to prevent it from rusting?


Hi, Waxoyl, ACF 50 etc.
Waxoyl would be my preference.
Hoggy.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Do you guys drive your cars in the winter??


My TT is a Summer/dry weekend car, or at least it will be when finished.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

cancellara27 said:


> Is there anything recommended to put on the steel to prevent it from rusting?


My plan is:-

1 - Rub down/wire wheel rust spots

2 - Treat with Krust anti rust solution (or similar)

3 - Paint with Hammerite (or similar)

4 - Finish off by liberally coating with Waxoyl (or similar)


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> cancellara27 said:
> 
> 
> > Is there anything recommended to put on the steel to prevent it from rusting?
> ...


Would you paint before the Waxoyl?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

happychappy said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > cancellara27 said:
> ...


Hi, Definately not, waxoyl won't be able to treat the corrosion if you paint it.
Put the waxoyl can (not aerosol) in a bucket of hot water & spray it on, after removing any loose rust.
Hoggy.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.

The underside does have some kind of wax, mainly around the box sections, but no where near enough to prevent what's happened.

It's this kind of O.E.M finish I am trying to achieve so that the underside looks as original as possible.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

happychappy said:


> Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.
> 
> The underside does have some kind of wax, mainly around the box sections, but no where near enough to prevent what's happened.
> 
> It's this kind of O.E.M finish I am trying to achieve so that the underside looks as original as possible.


Hi, Still spray it straight on to the metal. No good having original rusty & corroded. Original wasn't painted :? 
My Front & rear suspension is treated with Waxoyl. Pic of the rear.








Hoggy.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

happychappy said:


> Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.


Hi, If you don't cure what is there now you will have more corrosion in the future.
Hoggy.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

That's where an attack with a wire wheel, a coating of Krust (or similar) then finish with a top coat of Hammerite (or similar) comes in.

Think we may be a little at crossed purposes, the boot floor does have some paint on it, looks like a smooth primer, but no topcoat.

The waxoyl will be used in the box sections and a mist over the suspension,boot floor and surrounding nooks and crannies.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, You will do a much better & lasting job by just using Waxoyl.Forget the Kurust & Hammerite. 
My 37 year old XR3 proves it.
Hoggy


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

You've certainly got me thinking....

But to spray clear Waxoyl over wire wheeled panels ain't gonna look good, it will look like a patchwork quilt!

I feel that I need to get it all one colour before overcoating with Waxoyl.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, It's your TT, I can only suggest through experience. Waxoyl will save you lots of time & do a better job.
Hoggy.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Cheers Hoggy

I really appreciate your help.


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

I'm a bit of a Triumph TR7 nut and own a few. It was a marmite car, but I owned one in the 80's and have always loved them!

Anyway, I've done lots of work on them over the years and done basically what you have, wire brushed and sanded back the rust the best I could, then degrease and clean everything, then painted everything with POR15, its very runny so gets into every part and dries rock hard. Its more money than Hammerite, but so much better. It works best being applied to cleaned back rust, rather than smooth clean metal. The only downside is its UV sensitive, so needs a coat of standard paint putting on top, I have always done that bit with an aerosol.

Dave


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I stand back and salute your affiliation to BL cars! 

We really are gluttons for punishment..... veteran of a few, my fave being my Dolly Sprint.

Got any TRV8s? Used to know someone that rallied one (thumbs up and heart emoji...)

POR15 has crossed my mind, but I read somewhere that you can get Hammerite paint mixed to match car colours, if that is correct I will go that route, as it will then look like it should've looked like when it left the factory..... :roll:


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

You can always paint it in POR15 then spray over it in the colour you want. I've always done that just as the POR15 has almost gone off, but still slightly sticky, then the spray paint takes.

Do you still have your Dolly sprint? I owned one about 20ish years ago and did it all up, then my lady friend at the time used it and ran it with the oil pressure light on!! I ended up selling it for spares! It was a shame as it was a lovely car, the engine made it!

Two of my TR7 are V8, converted not original.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Sadly no, the Sprint went ages ago,,,

Complete with F2 crank, blueprinted engine, roll cage carefully hidden inside roof lining, Spax suspension and twin 48s...t'was a bit of a beast 

Will check out the POR stuff when I have ordered the suspension bits and shipped the metalwork off to the powdercoaters.

Thanks for the suggestion.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you need any motivation, this YouTube on a BMW rear suspension restoration is pretty impressive!


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I will give Mrs Happy your contact details so she can discuss this idea with you....  

Read the first reply and it kinda sums it all up,,,


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

AudiTTDave said:


> You can always paint it in POR15 then spray over it in the colour you want. I've always done that just as the POR15 has almost gone off, but still slightly sticky, then the spray paint takes.
> 
> Do you still have your Dolly sprint? I owned one about 20ish years ago and did it all up, then my lady friend at the time used it and ran it with the oil pressure light on!! I ended up selling it for spares! It was a shame as it was a lovely car, the engine made it!
> 
> Two of my TR7 are V8, converted not original.


Is it the POR 15 Metal Prep you are talking about?

Some good reviews on the Met Prep.


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

No its not the metal prep I was talking about its this, https://www.frost.co.uk/paints-coating- ... 946ml.html

But the metal prep is very good and gives a good surface to apply paint to. Ideally if you had enough of the stuff you could submerse each part in it, but the normal way is to brush it on and keep applying it, to not let the surface dry out, then after a given time, wash it off and dry the part. I use a hot air gun.

The only down side with the POR15 paint is if you put it on a smooth clean metal surface, it might peel off, it needs a good key.
It is quite pricey, but its very runny and goes a long way. It sort of dries like a hard plastic surface, because when some peeled off a smooth bit of metal it was like a plastic film, but very hard to break.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Thanks David

I assumed that the POR 15 Met Prep was like a Kurust product, it's to be used over head on the boot rear floor (I will be laid on my back painting over head, ah bliss....)

Bit worried about the POR 15 paint as I will be rubbing the panels down with sandpaper/wire wheels to remove the rust before stabalising the last remnants of any corrosion, then painting and finally using Waxoyl to prevent any further corrosion where possible. Don't like the idea of it peeling away...


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

It will only peel if the surface is super smooth and not keyed. But if you are using metal prep, then that will key the surface so the paint will attach. It does dry rock hard and if knocked won't chip like a normal paint, so ideal on suspension parts.

The metal prep will be no good for your boot floor though as its like water.

I have painted parts in both smoothrite and POR15 paint and after a few years the Smoothrite needs repainting, but the POR15 is still good.

Its up to you at the end of the day what products you use, but it would be good if you could update your post with your progress and pictures. (This is the Triumph restoration part of me coming out!)


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Thanks for the info regarding the Metal Prep, bit worried about it being such a free running liquid consistency although I have had a little go with Kurust (and that appears to be a very similar consistency) on one of the chassis rails and all has gone well,

I do like the idea of the POR paint, but the jury's still out regards the POR and Hammerite paint, especially if I can get a colour match with the Hammerite.

I know it will never be seen, unless up on a ramp, but there is nothing like a servicing garage/MOT examiner catching up after work has been completed to compliment your high maintenance standards.

Order was placed today for all new suspension arm components, bolts and shocks - Sachs and Lemforder are the brands I have opted for.

This afternoon I dropped the subframe, anti roll bar, coil springs and a couple of smaller bits - exhaust hangers etc to the powder coaters, so now I move onto cleaning up the rear underside, toying with the idea of dropping the fuel tank to gain more access...


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Update

The Fuel tank is now off and it's looking just a little bit bare under there... 

I now have a complete clear view of the corrosion on the rear underside and am pleased to say that it's not as bad as I had feared, would've been better if there was none, but hey ho...

Worst part was the subframe and suspension, but it's all under control and lots of new parts will soon be winging their way from Germany, hopefully to coincide with a trip to the powdercoaters to pick up the subframe and other bits.

A couple of pics to show just how bare the rear of the car looks now, in actual fact I think I have more parts scattered around the house/garage than on the car!


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

The pictures are good, like you say there doesn't look a lot left! But the corrosion doesn't look too bad, but I am used to looking at Triumphs!

Are you replacing all the rear bushes, using complete suspension arms where you can? including the subframe bushes?
You mention shock absorbers, are you going to replace the front shocks as well and bushes at some stage?

But just think of the feel good factor when you put everything back together and it looks like new, that is definitely the best bit and even when you drive it you will be feeling good about all the work you have done!


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The suspension arms will all be brand new and they come pre-bushed, the only captive bush to change is in the wheel bearing housing which I have ordered and it will be done when they arrive.

There are no bushes specific to the subframe.

I do intend to do the front end, maybe next winter, but after careful examination and a few days drive (yep, only driven this car for a couple of days before popping up on stands and wrapping it up for the winter  ) all seemed fine with the front end.

A couple of tiny scabs on the front shocks but that's it, cleaned up really nice and looks pretty good with refurbished front calipers and new discs/pads.

Can't wait to get it finished, but I won't rush, it's not in my nature....maaaaaan..... 

Footnote

AudiTTDave

Just been doing some research into the POR15 paint.

Looks like it's a bit of a non starter due to the prep process, two stages that both need washing off, that's gonna be a hell of a job!

I will be working on my back under the car supported on jack stands and so wanna be under there for as little time as possible, getting old.... 

Any other suggestions?

I am going a little bit cold on my Kurust/Hammerite paint/Waxoyl idea at the moment too.

Thanks for any ideas.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

One "combo" I can personally recommend is made from two Bilthamber products. First I would treat the bare metal/surface rust spots with Hydrate 80 - clean with brake cleaner or similar to get a oil-free surface, Hydrate is quite watery but can be applied upside down. Then apply a second layer and maybe even a third. After that I would paint over the area with Epoxy Mastic (2K) paint. Hard and durable finish and two products which are meant to be used together.

Hydrate 80 is kinda like those rust converters which have been sold for ages but won't repel paint like most of those old products. When applying it is milkish and with a tint of blue and it leaves a black finish when dried and needs a layer of paint over it because it turns back to blueish and slowly comes off if it comes in contact with water.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Thanks 83kY

I have heard good things about Bilthamber products, sounds a bit like Hammerite Kurust, will check it out.

Great idea regarding the Epoxy Mastic paint, isn't that the stuff recommended for calipers?


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

You don't have to do the pre stages with the POR15, as long as the rust is sanded back as much as possible and de-greased, which you would have to do with any paint, then you can paint it straight over rust.

I wouldn't go down the epoxy mastic route as its 2 pack paint and that's very dangerous stuff to use, especially in an semi enclosed area. You really need an air fed mask to be safe.

The more I'm reading your post the more I think I'm going to go down the same route in the future. I think the idea of the seperate subframe is a good one, especially as you can check all the other bits like brakes, brake pipes, wheel bearings etc.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The jury is still out regarding what route to take to try to eradicate the corrosion.

Each recommendation has it's merits and it's downfalls in my eyes, but one thing for sure is that I really do need to get my skates on as the new parts are about to be dispatched and I would imagine it's only another week until the parts at the powdercoaters arrive back.

I really want a near perfect finish that's tough,durable, easy to apply, readily available and reasonably priced, don't want much do I 

Going to spend this weekend doing some more research with a view to ordering bits on Monday.

Any other ideas/input peeps?

Update

Anyone used Bilt Hamber Electrox before?

Anygood?

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/electrox


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

update

A decision has been reached!

After a lovely and informative conversation with a tech guy at Bilt Hamber I am going for their one brand solution.

My work plan for the corrosion will be:-

1 - Wire wheel/sand back as much corrosion as possible.

2 - Areas that are difficult to access I.e. wheelarch liner hangers will be dealt with by Bilt Hamber Deox Gel.

3 - When clear of corrosion a coat of Bilt Hamber Ekectrox will treat the exposed metal and stop any further corrosion.

4 - This will be topped with Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic, brushed, not sprayed to try to keep what's left of my lungs 

5 - Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax will be used in the box sections and inside the subframe tubular sections.

6 - Bilt Hamber Dynax UB wax will treat the floor areas.

7 - Bilt Hamber Dynax UC wax will be sprayed liberally over suspension components once in place and bolted up.

Sounds so easy when writing it down, but there is a lot of hard work there, better get my order in soon!

A link to the Bilt Hamber website:-

https://www.bilthamber.com/


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Why not just use electrolysis to kill rust & corrosion? Then reverse the polarity to protect it or plate it with thin coating of zinc. Did you modified the grounding point of your rear tail light? What caused the corrosion? Clogged battery vent?


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

It's all exterior corrosion, all above the rear suspension units, none inside the boot or at the front.

I am not alone in this predicament, to be honest it's hard to see unless the car is up on ramps, check your own, you may be surprised! 

I think that it was a car that was used as a car and not a toy/treat like I am intending to do.

Not touched the lights, other than to take them out for a clean.

Battery vent is attached to battery and fine.

*The Electrox has a very high zinc content

https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Audi has 12 year manufacturer warranty for bodywork against corrosion perforation for new vehicles from the date of first registration or delivery of the vehicle to the original retail customer, whichever comes first.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Sadly I am not the first registered owner and the corrosion has not perforated anywhere.

On the body work it's surface rust, the suspension components are worse, but I don't believe that they would be covered.

I did think about the warranty, but it's a bit late as the car has been stripped back and is in a non moveable state at the moment.

I am quite particular about the upkeep of vehicles and what many people would say is fine would be a disaster for me hence my quest to return the vehicle to as close to as new condition as I can reasonably get, for me it's a hobby and a challenge and to be honest many people would never have known that the corrosion was there until the car was up on ramps.

Thanks for the suggestion though.


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## AudiTTDave (Feb 15, 2019)

Looks a good plan to treat the areas. I've never used their products, but would be keen to see how it goes on and looks.

Will you be painting the new suspension arms before fitting them?
I ordered some parts from Auto Doc, I presume from where you got yours, about 3 weeks ago and they arrived today! The prices are good from Germany as long as you don't mind the wait.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Using Bilt Hamber products to cure this corrosion will be a first for me, to be honest I have not had to deal with corrosion on a car for around 20+ years so it's still all a bit of a shock.

I won't be painting any of the suspension components as they already seem to have a decent drop of paint on them, other than the drop links, which seem to only have a clear coat finish on them, I will use more clear coat before smothering all of the suspension parts with the appropriate BH waxes as I reassemble the rear of the car.

AutoDoc were recommended by a friend and I have nothing but praise for them so far. Sure, it takes a while to receive the parts, but the range compared to GSF and ECP is wide and full of quality companies, highly recommended.

Got all my suspension bits on Wednesday, they are now checked, labelled (bolts were a mare....  ) and ready to fit once corrosion has been treated in the next few weeks.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Update

Right, so I am now ready to use some corrosion prevention wax under the car after a good few months of dealing with the surface rust.

In the end I :-

1 - steam cleaned

2 - Wire brushed and Bilt Hamber DEOX-Gel'd the hanger areas where I could get to with the various wire brushes.

3 - Used Bilt Hamber ELECTROX zinc primer liberally to cover the areas worked on

4 - Used Bilt Hamber EPOXY-MASTIC to cover and seal the areas worked on

5 - Sprayed body colour over the EPOXY-MASTIC

6 - Clear coated over the paint

I now have to decide what to do regards a wax corrosion prevention layer.

Originally I was going to go for Bilt Hamber products, but I am wondering if good old Waxoyl will be ok?

What say the TT massive? 

A few pics


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks very clean under there, good work


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

It definitely looks brand new. Well done and keep posting the progress, its inspiring.


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

Looks brilliant. Wish I had the time to do the same.


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## Pete Mac (Apr 21, 2014)

Hi Happy, 
Just picked up your thread. Congratulations on your transformation. I also have owned the same as yours for the last 4 yrs. mostly a sunny day example with only 31000 mls and immaculate. I too suffer from the OCD affliction. 
I can wholeheartedly recommend All BH Products above anything else including waxoyl as I have used them all with exception of the epoxy. I used Waxoyl when it first appeared on the market, then marketed by Finnigans ( yes I'm now 70 but still an enthusiast)
Good luck and hope to read of any updates. Regards


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