# How to: VR6 3.2 Accessory Belt, Tensioner & Pulley Repair



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I've started this post as I can't seem to find one for the Mk2 in this Forum and there doesn't seem to be much on other VAG Forums or YouTube either.

*Parts Required - *
1.) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L 
2.) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2)
3.) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933 _Note: Verify correct length for your model_ -
• AH = 21.36 x 1235-mm
• AP = 21.36 x 1610-mm

*Tools Required - *
1.) CR-VT55 or Tripple Square CR-V12 for the Tensioner Retaining Bolt
2.) 16-mm wrench for the Tensioner Wheel & Idler Roller Bolts
3.) VAG Tool, Locking Pin T10060 or M4 Allen Wrench to lock the Tensioner
4.) Torque Wrench

*Torque Values -*
1.) Tensioner Retaining Bolt: 50Nm
2.) Idler Roller Bolts: 40Nm

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
*Engine BUB, CBRA - 3.2 ltr, 4-Valve - A005TT01120*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


















Good read on why the belt, tensioner and pulleys should be replaced as a match set, rather than as individual components and how to determine if your belt should be replaced even it looks okay.

*FAQ - Accessory/Serpentine/V-Belt & Idler Pulley Failures*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1887033


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looks like moving the charcoal canister out of the way will be required from up top as recommended in the Workshop Manual. Removal of the front wheel and arch liner may or may not be necessary in order to get to the idler pulleys, but the under pan trays will definitely have to be taken off. I could barely get my hand and wrench on the top idler pulley so that's going to be an under the vehicle event. Plus it makes it possible to verify the belt is positioned properly on the crank and AC pulleys.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Great work Swiss. Could be a good time to replace your charcoal cannister as well if youve never done it. Also the valve (whose name escapes me) that leads to it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The N80..?? Well, it's a start. *MT-V6* is already ahead of me in ordering his parts. I'm just doing the research! 

With regards to the Canister and Valve, you mean this one?

*How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) EVAP Faults N80 & EVAP Canister*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1850235


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> *Parts Required - *
> 1.) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L
> 2.) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2)
> 3.) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933 _Note: Verify correct length for your model_ -
> ...


As in your photo, I also have tensioner 022 145 299 H which was superseded by 022 145 299 L in 02/2008, if that helps with cross referencing parts. I've yet to order this, it's not supplied by the usual Euro Car Parts/GSF so I'll have to look further

And I have belt 6PK1610 - 022 145 933 AG which was superseded by 022 145 933 AP in 12/2008. Most non-Audi parts catalogues bring up a 6PK1613 belt though, that is what the Dayco one I've ordered is. The tensioner should make up for the 3mm extra

I think the 1235mm belt is for non A/C cars, which I have not actually heard of, must be in specific markets only?

Finally, the idle rollers I assume we both have fitted are 022 145 276 C, superseded by 022 145 276 F in 07/2008. I have order INA replacements


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I agree, the longer 1610-mm belt makes sense with AC. Not sure who would order a vehicle without one, but it's also mentioned some may not have it the WS Manuals when referencing the HVAC.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Yes that is the valve and just another weak point that can be crossed off the list for an older car. Did mine last last year.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just out of curiosity for what these parts cost I've listed a few sources out of Germany -

*(1) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L*
• DAYCO Belt Tensioner, V-Ribbed Belt, Item No.APV3021, €107.36 (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Tension Arm, V-Ribbed belt, Item No. 534 0246 10, €73.76 (AutoDoc.de)
• NTN-SNR Tensioner, Item No. GA357.54, V-Ribbed Belt, €56.48 (AutoDoc.de)
• SNR Keilrippenriemen-Spannrolle Art.-Nr.: GA357.54, €33,32 (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service €83.40

*(2) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2)*
• DAYCO Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. APV2520, €42.24 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. 532 0479 10, €14.80 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• NTN-SNR Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. GA357.61, €17.07 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Keilrippenriemen-Umlenkrolle Art.-Nr.: 532047910, €11,16 ea (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service €46.60 ea

*(3) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933AP [21.36mm x 1610mm]*
• BOSCH V-Ribbed Belts, Item number 1.987.947.983 (1610mm), €10.41 (AutoDoc.de)
• DAYCO V-Ribbed Belts, 6PK1610HD (1610mm) €10.69 (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Keilrippenriemen Art.-Nr.: FB6PK1613, €8,20 (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service € 44.95


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I have the parts now, just need to fit them in the coming weeks

The idler pulleys did come with replacement bolts, but the tensioner didn't. Probably not required, but I might get a new one from Audi


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just curious where you picked up your parts and what they cost.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

From CarParts4Less (Euro Car Parts) and GSF, just under £110 all in


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

For the sake of a single bolt, I have bought a replacement for the tensioner, as a new one isn't supplied. It's surprising long, at M10x85mm. Part number is N 910 329 01

It's isn't threadlocked either










I plan do this in a few weekends time when I am free, but I have all the parts needed now


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I replaced this at the weekend, a surprisingly easy job.

The charcoal canister gets in the way, simple to move it out of the way with 2 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut. It doesn't need to be disconnected, just put aside:










The belt can then be seen:










Access to the lower pulleys is easy with the lower arch liner/undertray removed. The large main undertray doesn't need removing:










Take the tension off the belt by using a breaker bar on the 16mm head on the tensioner, in an anti-clockwise direction, and put a pin through the two holes. I don't have a photo of this but it can be seen in this photo of my replacement one:










Definitely needed replacing:










The idler pulleys can now be removed, again they are held with 16mm bolts. The upper one is easy, a long extension helps. The lower one is awkward as the undertray mounting frame in right in the way... A spanner and a long extension can be held on it, and tapped with a hammer from the engine bay:










Torque up the replacements to 40Nm:










The tensioner is the same process. Undo the spline M12 bolt and refit the new one to 50Nm. PS. don't forgot to take off the tension and remove the pin from it before you remove it!

Fit the new belt and then take the tension off:










1 - Idler roller
2 - Vibration damper
3 - Coolant pump
4 - Tensioning roller
5 - Alternator
6 - Idler roller
7 - Air conditioner compressor



















I rotated the engine via the crank pulley a couple of turns to make sure the new belt was seated properly before starting the engine.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice explanation, looks straight forward enough. Well done! 

1.) How old is your belt and how many miles on it?

2.) What was the condition of the tensioner and idler rollers? Any obvious damage or wear; worn spring, wobbly wheels or squeaky axles?

3.) Do you think this could this be done with the car up on ramps with the under pans removed, rather than on jack stands and going through the wheel arch?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I assume it is the original, so mid 2007 and about 90k. I think the age is possibly the biggest factor here unless the car is especially high mileage

The cracks weren't visible while fitted, it was the slight fray that prompted me to replace it. Though there is are noticeably deeper grooves in the old belt too

It could easily be done on ramps but the main undertray will need removing. That would probably make it easier to get leverage on the lower pulley, but you'd have to reach up a bit higher to get to the top one. Possibly the part that will be most difficult will be feeding the new belt round, are you wouldn't have a great view from above or below


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Oh and the removed tensioner and pulleys seemed fine but whether or not they'd last the life of the new belt I'm not sure. The pulleys are so cheap it doesn't make sense not to replace them

The tensioner is easy to get to if you decide to replace later on, though if that fails the belt will be scrap again anyway, so I'd say replace the lot for peace of mind


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

For those looking to buy a tensioner, I came across something interesting on the old Audi part.

The "SKF" one I bought was actually a Litens part:










Who are actually the OEM manufacturer of the Audi part:










They even both have "0489" on them (though the SKF part number is VKM 31070.

The "INA' idler pulleys were also branded as Litens, though the Audi parts don't have any manufacturer markings.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Been looking for all these parts for my 2006 mk2 3.2 and can't find all of them, anybody know where I can get them all from the same place??


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Tried Euro Car Parts and GSF?


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Ordered all my parts, purchased all parts manufactured by SKF apart from the pulley bolt.


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## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Very cool guide! Will definitely bookmark it. I like how it shows a possibly original belt going 13 years and 90 miles on. 

And @SwissJetPilot, you crossed to the dark "premium" side of the forum I see 😲


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *wsantos* - Seems they gave it to me. Now I can minimize the column on the right to make the posts wider. Whoop-te-freekin'-do! 
On a more serious note, if you're working on your TT, you may find this post useful since the links are specific to the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine -








FAQ - Mk2 3.2 VR6 (BUB) Maintenance & Service


Maintenance & Service - As the title indicates, these are service and maintenance procedures specific to the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine. For a better idea of what's inside, I've linked a YouTube video from 2007 of a cut-away 3.2 VR6 engine which shows many of the hidden features like the cyclone...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *wsantos* - Seems they gave it to me. Now I can minimize the column on the right to make the posts wider. Whoop-te-freekin'-do!


They gave it to me too - big deal - no idea why…
jez


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## zsdom (Oct 25, 2020)

MT-V6 said:


> I have the parts now, just need to fit them in the coming weeks
> 
> The idler pulleys did come with replacement bolts, but the tensioner didn't. Probably not required, but I might get a new one from Audi
> 
> View attachment 444343



Thread resurrection! did you get the tensioner from GSF, they're the only one that I've found that stocks one but its listed as an unbranded premium part


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

zsdom said:


> Thread resurrection! did you get the tensioner from GSF, they're the only one that I've found that stocks one but its listed as an unbranded premium part


Yes I did. GSF seem to have become annoying in recent years with this hiding of brand names. I phoned them up and they checked the stock and told me it was SKF before I ordered. Note even the SKF part is actually made by Litens, as is the Audi OEM part (though a slightly different design)


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## zsdom (Oct 25, 2020)

Managed to change my drive belt today after the tensioner poohed its pants & threw the belt



















I managed to get it all changed without moving the charcoal cannister & also got a 3/8” ratchet on the bottom pulley

















All in all a pretty easy job, took me just over an hour to get it all swapped over although I think having the belt already off saved 10mins


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nice one. That old tensioner looks a right state. What mileage was it at out of interest?

Also what brand is the tensioner? I can't make it out from your photo? Is it Litens in another brands box?


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## zsdom (Oct 25, 2020)

The cars on 89k, the old belt doesnt look that bad even after a journey round the engine bay

The tensioner is in a Dayco box from GSF, its not marked Litens as yours was, the only markings on it are LAT 0489 although the pulleys are Litens from Carparts4less


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That's interesting then. Audi OEM Litens and Litens, and Dayco all have 0489 on them. Must be a reference to the design of them


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Could do with some advice regarding this job, it’s one that was on my “to do” list as my VR6 is now sat on 82,000m and I have no history indicating wether it was done or not. So, popped out to have a look earlier today at the belt and tensioner - as much as I could see with an inspection mirror anyways.

From what I can tell, the tensioner isn’t OEM because it’s not the same as the one MT-V6 removed, but it IS the same as the one he replaced his OEM one with - I wiped a bit of muck off it to see.

Now, I have no idea when this was done, don’t know if the pictures of the belt below show a worn belt or not. It looks like the tensioner bolt was reused as it’s a bit more corroded than I would have thought a replacement would have been.

No idea if the pulleys were done as I couldn’t really see from the engine bay.

Would appreciate anyones thoughts on this and the pics below - if I can avoid the cost of paying a garage to do it, that’d be preferable as I can’t do this myself.

Id have thought that the tensioner would not have been changed at 30-40k, possibly meaning it’s a job I don’t need to worry about immediately.

Thoughts appreciated - pics below


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That belt is definitely not the Audi part, so it does look to have been replaced along with the tensioner

Does the inside side/ribbed side feel brittle or cracked? Any signs of a frayed edge? If not you're probably fine for now


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

It doesn’t feel brittle, cant see any sign of cracking, there is a bit of twist play in the belt - can move it by hand a bit. Also cant see any frayed edges to the belt and as you mentioned, I did wonder if it was an Audi belt or not.

I took it as a sign it had been done (perhaps only tensioner and belt) by looking at your pics. My tensioner is deffo not OEM as it’s the same as the one you replaced yours with by the looks of it, albeit the boot looks original and maybe reused.

Kinda puts me at ease a bit as I don’t think it’s one of those jobs that would have been done early on in her life, maybe 40k+ I dunno……if it was done then, there should be life in the old girl yet for a bit with the exception of maybe deterioration of the belt itself through age…..

Whats your thought on visual condition of the belt?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Belt looks like a Gates belt--I can't make out the lettering 100% but it has a logo similar to theirs, that oval kind of shape with the writing in it. About 90% sure that's a Gates replacement belt.

On a side note I bought a Gates belt for my TT...it was actually slightly larger than the belt that came off the car, lol. And I think that belt had been on there since the car was built (never changed). I said whatever and let the tensioner take care of any extra (it wasn't that much). Didn't change the tensioner as it seems fine. Belt has been fine since it has been on there. Only has two things to run on the 2.0T anyway.

I'm pretty sure Litens would be the OE for the VW tensioner, so replacement with a Litens is good/fine. @Steviejones133, your belt looks okay to me though I don't know what kind of tension/deflection is considered normal for a VR6.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Indeed it does look like a Gates belt, as far as I can tell from the pics I already took - will try and get a better pic tomorrow but certainly not an OEM belt or tensioner…..


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

As luck would have it, turned the engine off after getting home and popped the hood…..bang in prime photographing area 😉 Do these markings fade with age? Could this be considered as fairly new ‘cos I haven’t got the foggiest 😆


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

They are normally smooth backed but looks like Gates are different in that respect. The back of the belt does wear a bit as it faces some of the guide pulleys 

Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> They are normally smooth backed but looks like Gates are different in that respect. The back of the belt does wear a bit as it faces some of the guide pulleys
> 
> Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk


Yeah, I thought that when I looked at how the belt snakes around the various wheels/pulleys. The markings in my belt seem to be pretty fresh from what I know which is very little. Would these manufacturers markings still be as prominent on an old belt?


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## zsdom (Oct 25, 2020)

I'm pretty sure my belt is textured like yours, yours looks ok, I'd move on & look at something else to work on your car


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

zsdom said:


> I'm pretty sure my belt is textured like yours, yours looks ok, I'd move on & look at something else to work on your car


Thats fair comment, I was only trying to gauge if it was a job I needed to do or not……


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

zsdom said:


> I'm pretty sure my belt is textured like yours, yours looks ok, I'd move on & look at something else to work on your car


Lulz. Well at least it's better to have nothing wrong and be "looking for problems" than to have a car where you're "plugging holes in a boat" trying to get it working right


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Steviejones133 said:


> Would these manufacturers markings still be as prominent on an old belt?


My original Audi one with 90k miles was still pretty legible so it doesn't fade off that much really


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