# Removing and inspecting drop links



## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

I need to get my drop links off front and back to see if there what's making the knocking noises, is there anything i need to support if i remove these ( i will be doing one corner at a time) also what am i looking for in a worn drop link ?

Thanks

Charles


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

no.

loosen nuts
raise swaybar gently with jack to relieve stress on droplinks. top droplink bolt should come out of strut with * NO *resistance.

cheers.


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## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

TTQ2K2 said:


> no.
> 
> loosen nuts
> raise swaybar gently with jack to relieve stress on droplinks. top droplink bolt should come out of strut with * NO *resistance.
> ...


Thanks mate any idea what a worn one will look like


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

I replaced my just because they were 10 years old. then, when i removed the old ones I found the rubber gaskets were torn.

also, you'll know the swaybar is up high enough (maybe and inch) because the top post/bolt will be loose in the strut and basically just wobble.

loosen both top and bottom nuts
raise sway bar to remove release pressure on droplink
check for wobble so you know you've raised the swaybar enough (either too high or too low and you won't get wobble)
then, remove top bolt completely
slide top post out of the hole in the strut
remove lower bolt completely
slide lower post out of swaybar (take notice of the size and orientation of the two droplink post-ends. they are slightly different. I think it is possible to put them in upside down...make sure the L or R is not upside down.
insert posts of new links into strut and swaybar
add nuts and tighten to 90 Nm (66ft-lbs)

these droplink nuts are single use. so, send the few shillings on new nuts.

also, droplinks are side specific...a left and right. they should be marked with an L and R.

cheers.


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

I just did mine yesterday. Made the car handle so much better and fixed my clunking noise. When you remove them and you wiggle the joints they should be firm not loose. As Bob said the bolts are one time use only but mine came with new ones. They are side specific and top and bottom specific the longer stud is at the top and the shorter one is at the bottom. They are side specific but you really can't screw up and fit them on the wrong side as one of the studs will be facing the wrong way. The top bolt was easy to loosen but the bottom you will need a spanner to hold the stud in place while you undue the nut.


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## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

Cheers guys where did you get your replacements in the end ?

Found these on here do you think they'll be up to scratch.


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

gadgetboy38 said:


> Cheers guys where did you get your replacements in the end ?
> 
> Found these on here do you think they'll be up to scratch.


missing link.

I got mine on line here. http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214407, vw/audi dealer in san diago, ca. not the cheapest but with the other parts I ordered at the same time the total price, including shipping to texas, was much much less than my local stealer. shop on line. you can almost always find a savings on line versus local stealer.

cheers


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## cyberdude (May 24, 2002)

Eurocarparts do them in the UK. I'm not sure how good they are or how they compare to the Audi parts in price.


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## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

Sorry this is the link

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/tt_suspension_rear.php


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

Don't see why those wouldn't work. Didn't know you were doing your rears. my drop-links were from Febi and there made by Bilstein so I got a quality piece.


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## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

ecko2702 said:


> Don't see why those wouldn't work. Didn't know you were doing your rears. my drop-links were from Febi and there made by Bilstein so I got a quality piece.


Yeah got some knocking from the rear i have replaced the springs so i guess it must be the drop links


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

ecko2702 said:


> Don't see why those wouldn't work. Didn't know you were doing your rears. my drop-links were from Febi and there made by Bilstein so I got a quality piece.


+1. Guess I missed the 'rear' comment in original post too. I don't have any experience with that vendor, so can't comment one way or the other on their quality.

cheers.


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## Grahamstt (Jul 22, 2008)

To check the drop links leave them on the car and try to lever them with a lever bar or substantial screwdriver, if they're Knackered you will get some play if not they should be serviceable.
Dont forget there's no weight on them so you can undo the bolts without any probs as long as both the front or rear wheels are off the ground together
When they wear it's the joint at either end that has excessive play that causes the Knocking noise.
They're cheap enough to replace so if fitting new arb's change them anyway.
Cheers Graham


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

When mine needed replacing you couldn't tell by levering them that there was any play - especially as I was getting a bad knocking.

I replaced them anyway they cost me £30 for the front pair from a local motor factors and fitted them myself in less than an hour.

It cured the knocking


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## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

Been quoted £20 a side by APS mate , so figure they are roughly that much from audi.


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## gadgetboy38 (Mar 9, 2005)

Hark said:


> Been quoted £20 a side by APS mate , so figure they are roughly that much from audi.


Cheers mate thats not too bad..


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## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

gadgetboy38 said:


> Hark said:
> 
> 
> > Been quoted £20 a side by APS mate , so figure they are roughly that much from audi.
> ...


That's parts by the way. Labour is a seperate quote.

Only changing them as I need to change rear arb so a you have to unbolt I thought I might as well do it at the same time.


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