# HOWTO: Wing mirror replacement



## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

*v2 here:* viewtopic.php?f=19&t=254428

Here's my guide on replacing wing mirror housings. Obviously you undertake any job on your car at your own risk. This is just a guide. If you misinterpret it, or if your car just happens to be a pain in the neck, damage can occur.

*Credit where credit's due:*
Original pictures by Bryn, original info taken from the KB article from MTK and Bryn. Other information from ElsaWin provided by Naresh.

Sorry, I have no extra pictures at this stage.

*Things to bear in mind:*
It should be an easy job, but design quirks can make it a complete pain in the neck. Familiarize yourself with the task and the parts. Even when you know exactly what to do, it can be an awkard job. One side may be considerably more difficult than the other, for no apparent reason. Connectors can be incredibly tight. Things might not work as they should. Issues like these can increase the risk of damage to your car.

If you're not used to working on cars, allow yourself plenty of time especially if you have to work outside. Get a second pair of hands to help, because some parts can be a bit awkward.

*You will need:*
Something to prize the mirror glass off with, ideally something broad and flat.
Some decent Torx drivers. No B&Q crud. T15 for most of the job, and T9 for the indicators.
Some cloths to protect the car, hold mirrors etc.
An extra pair of hands - it really does help if you have awkward connectors. 
Possibly a couple of pairs of pliers depending on what connectors you have.

If you want to further secure the heating element connectors you will need some epoxy resin or other non-conductive filler.

To prepare for the job you can drape cloths around the mirror support and tape them to the car to protect the bodywork - you never know, you might drop something. Ideally put something on the ground as well. That way if something does slip out of your hand it's got something soft to land on.

*Step 1 - Removing the mirror glass*
Move the mirror all the way to one side so you can get your prizing tool in behind it. Using a cloth to protect the mirror housing, gently prize the mirror off. Hold the mirror with a cloth. When handling the mirror and disconnecting connectors in the following steps, be mindful not to put excess pressure on any point of the mirror. Support it if necessary.

You will see the following connectors:

Heating element connectors: thin red and black wires with pinkish L-shaped coverings to spade connectors. Take a look at the mirror and you'll see these slide on to L-shaped pieces of metal that sit within the recess and go slightly under the plastic guard. There is quite a gap between the two. This is a weakness of the design. If the connectors are stiff, they will flex, and the backing that they connect to is also soft. If you are not careful you can damage the connection to the heating element. 

(Option) Dimming connector: If you have auto-dimming mirrors there will also be a power connector on the back of the mirror glass for that. The white plug from the car is plugged into a black female connector on the mirror. The joined connectors are clipped onto the back of the mirror. Unclip this from the mirror glass to make disconnection easier. These connectors are the toughest of the lot and can be incredibly stiff for no apparent reason. If you need to resort to pliers, get someone to hold the glass, and hold the female connector by its narrow sides so it doesn't squeeze the plug, and the white plug by its broad sides.

With the mirror glass removed and disconnected, you could take this opportunity to fill around the heating element connectors if you so wish, to strengthen them up. If you do this, you do so at your own risk.
*
Step 2 - A spot of familiarization before continuing:*
Having removed the glass, you'll be presented with this view of your mirror:









Familiarize yourself with the insides, known as the mounting plate. Towards the car window you have a tubular section through which the cabling passes, and which also attaches the mirror to the car. This section is itself in two sections. The section with the mirror motors etc. rotates around the base section that is secured to the car with the silver Torx screw at the bottom right of the picture. Move the mirror housing towards the front of the car, and back to its normal position and you'll see what I mean. You will also see the splines on the upper rotating section that limit the rotation of the mirror housing by contacting up against the block with that silver screw in it. The block surrounding the silver screw can be seen to reach either end of the recess created by these splines.
*
Step 3: Disconnecting the remainder of the wires:*
Rotate the mirror housing around towards the front of the car until it reaches its natural click-stop. Look underneath the mirror and you'll see the Torx screw that secures the bottom of the housing to the mounting plate and the seal to the bottom of the housing.








Undo this and keep to one side.

Next undo the THREE Torx screws that hold the housing to the mounting plate. They are indicated in this picture, top left, top right and bottom left, but LEAVE the silver screw at the bottom inner corner for now. It'll keep the mounting plate secure attached to the car while you unplug the cables.









With the screw underneath and the three screws mentioned above removed, the mirror housing is now free of the mounting plate. With some gentle convincing it'll move free, and allow access behind the mounting plate.

There are now 2 or three further sets of wires to disconnect. Thankfully these are all easier than the ones before. They are:
Mirror adjustment power: Four pin white plastic connector with red and white wires on the front underside of the mounting plate. On both sides of the car it's on the right, so is a bit trickier to get to on the left mirror.

(Optional) Mirror folding power: White connector with two wires clipped into a slot on the BACK of the mounting plate (i.e. inside the housing). Remove the joined connectors from the slot, and disconnect them.

Indicator power: Black connector in a black socket, with blue and yellow wires, secured to the inside of the mirror housing itself. The connectors cannot be disconnected from the housing to unplug them, so you need to be of nimble fingers. Fortunately, these connectors are not stiff like most of the others. There is a knack to their removal. If it doesn't unplug easily, you've missed the knack, so try again. These really don't need any force to undo.

You can see the removed connector in the centre of this picture: 








The plug slides in horizontally towards the CAR, i.e. towards the deepest part of the housing. The knack to removal is this: there's a plastic tab right by where the wires come out of the connector, which you can see immediately below the yellow wire in the above picture. Press in right by the edge of the connector - this is towards the outside of the car as you consider the normal mirror position. You'll feel it give if you're pressing the right place, and it's just a see-saw to free the locking clip on the other side. Holding that in, the plug will slide out AWAY from the car very easily. It's a bit fiddly, so if it doesn't budge, it just means the clip isn't quite free or you're not pressing in quite the right place.

*Step 4 - Removing the mounting plate and housing:*
With all the wires disconnected, the mounting plate and housing can be removed from the car. Take extra care here now that the mirror housing isn't secured to the mounting plate! An extra pair of hands is useful again here, just to help hold things.

Rotate the mounting plate back towards the rear of the car towards its normal position when driving, so you're here again:








Now remove the silver Torx screw at the bottom corner (bottom right of the image) that we mentioned earlier. This secures the mounting plate to the car. WARNING: This screw is SOFT.

Rotate the mounting plate and mirror housing towards the front of the car again towards the click-stop. If you look at the bottom of the mounting plate where it connects to the car, you'll see an L-shaped groove with a square metal peg in it, at position X (sorry, no photo):

#########
##.X.....##
#####...##
#####...##
The mounting plate is held onto the car by this twist lock. You can see that if you rotate the mounting plate a bit further towards the front of the car, that it will be able to just lift off. BEFORE YOU PROCEED, be aware that this twist lock can be problematic to reinstate later because you need to be able to get enough torsion on the mounting plate to resituate it. As the mounting plate rotates around the lower section with the twist lock, this can be difficult to resecure if it acts up!

If you wish to proceed, twist the mounting plate further towards the front of the car. Carefully lift the mounting plate and housing from the car, passing the wires and their connectors through the central tube of the mounting plate. This is easiest if you work from the smallest connectors to the larger ones, and finish with the black inicator connector which can help nicely push the others through.

Voila! Mirror housing and mounting plate removed from the car.

*Step 5 - Moving the indicator assembly to your new mirror housing:*
Remove the mounting plate from the mirror housing. You'll see the following:









Undo the six T9 Torx screws that secure the indicator assembly to the mirror housing. The indicator housing is easily removed as follows: 
Gently pull the end of the indicator assembly where the cable connector is. You'll see it rotate slightly around the opposite end. The outer end is slotted though the slot in the mirror housing, and there's about 3/4 inch of the indicator strip that hooks through there. As the assembly rotates out of the housing, you'll see that end unhooking and then you'll be able to pull it through the slot.

Clean the indicator assembly if need be, and then reverse the above process to fit it into the replacement mirror housing. Feed the outer end through the slot to where it hooks in place, and rotate the indicator into the mirror housing, line up the screw holes, and replace the six T9 screws.

*Step 6 - Move the seal to your new mirror housing:*
Where this screw goes into the underside of the mirror housing:









...it also secures a seal, as previously mentioned. You'll see this seal on the underside of the removed mirror housing. It has two clips, which you'll see if you look inside the housing. They undo very easily with a nudge of a fingertip, allowing removal of the seal. It's probably filthy, so give it a clean  Clip it in place on your new housing.

*Step 7 - Beginning reassembly:*
Situate the mounting plate within the new mirror housing, so that its tubular section comes through the hole in the seal on the underside of the housing. 
Pass the wires and connectors back through the tube. Start with the smallest again and finish up with the black indicator connector as before to help push things through until you can gently pull them through.

Look at the bottom of the tube and you'll see the slots for the potentially troublesome twist lock. Look at the mirror base on the car and you'll see the square pegs that the mounting plate lines up with. Line them up, and lower the mounting plate and mirror housing back onto the car. You'll see the pegs on the mirror base at position X in the L-shaped twist lock slots at the bottom of the mounting plate:

#########
##.....X ##
#####...##
#####...##

The mounting plate now needs to be rotated towards the back of the car to lock the mounting plate back in place. What this also does is line up the hole in the bottom corner of the mounting plate, with the corresponding threaded hole on the mirror base of the car. This is the hole that the silver screw (mentioned in steps 2 and 4) goes into to secure the mounting plate to the car. Obviously these need to line up once the twist lock is resituated, and this can be troublesome if the mounting plate rotates but the twist lock does not.

Once the mounting plate twist lock is correctly resituated, relocate the silver screw so that it is secure. You should now be able to move the mounting plate backwards and forwards in its normal range of motion, with it remaining secure.

*Step 8 - Reconnecting the wiring to the mounting plate:*
Reconnect the black indicator connector into the mirror housing.
(Option) Reconnect the folding mirror power to the connector on the BACK of the mounting plate. Clip it back into its slot to hold it securely.
Reconnect the four pin connector with the red and white wires for mirror adjustment.

Move the mounting plate towards the front of the car for the next step if it's not already there.

*Step 9 - Relocating the mirror housing:*
Make sure that the connectors for the mirror glass are brought to the outside of the mirror housing.
Gently resituate the mirror housing onto the mounting plate so that all the screw holes line up. There's a bit of a knack to getting it in place. If it feels like it's not going, then it won't, don't force it, just jiggle it around until it gently moves into place.

Screw in the three Torx screws to secure the housing to the back of the mounting plate.
Screw the countersunk Torx screw back into the underside of the housing to secure the bottom of the housing to the mounting plate, and to secure the seal you clipped onto your new housing in step 6.

*Step 10 - Relocating the mirror glass:*
(Option) Reconnect the dimmer power connector to the mirror, and re-clip the joined connectors to the back of the mirror. They slot in on one side, and clip down on the other. 
Reconnect the pink connectors for the heating element.
Resituate the mirror glass, taking care to get the plastic arc on the back of the mirror into the silver slots shown on the centre-left of this picture:








With gradual application of firm but even pressure, clip the mirror glass back into place. Ensure that it is secured all the way around.

Job done! Move the mirror into its normal place.


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## bluetone (Aug 25, 2008)

Superb, really superb post!
Half the work on my mirror replacing is already done with this thread!!!



Many thanks!
Mattias


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## Mack The Knife (Jun 14, 2007)

It's a pity the Knowledge Based Articles are all locked.

This should be added to http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=146103 if it helps more than the 'original' article.

Otherwise this will probably be lost here in a few months' time.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

bluetone said:


> Superb, really superb post!
> Half the work on my mirror replacing is already done with this thread!!!
> 
> 
> ...


No problem 



Mack The Knife said:


> It's a pity the Knowledge Based Articles are all locked.
> This should be added to http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=146103 if it helps more than the 'original' article.
> Otherwise this will probably be lost here in a few months' time.


Tosh, could you do the honours please?


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## yosh (Jun 18, 2011)

Thanks for the helpfull post. 
Today I changed the car mirrors, using your manual.
I've taken two pics for you and your manual:

















Here's a little video:


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

ScoobyTT said:


> bluetone said:
> 
> 
> > Superb, really superb post!
> ...


You want to add the pics and i'll merge the two together.
i've only "quickly" looked, but they look pretty much the same


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## hugy (Dec 4, 2007)

Great post,
The last time I took off my mirrors I nearly ruined that Soft alloy screw.
I think I only managed to screw it back in about two thirds the way in.
Does anyone have a spare one ?


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

I do, but I need it to replace the one that's rusted in mine - not that I can get it out so it may be there for some time. :?

If you order part number "8J0 898 011", that's a bag of bits and bobs for the mirrors which includes said screw and a bunch of others such as the 6 for the indicator strip. The bag is only a couple of UK pounds, and I would recommend treating that soft screw with something to try and rust proof it.

@Tosh, yeah you'd already put my changes in the KB version so I think they are the same. I've not checked recently. I'll merge yosh's pics into the main post above shortly. Thanks yosh.

EDIT: The changes take the post over the character limit. I'll create a new topic and split it into chunks.

New version here: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=254428


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## MarcF-TT (Jun 14, 2011)

I tried and failed at this - the glass just didn't seem to want to come off. In the end I'm getting the local garage to change both over for 0.8 hrs in total.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

ScoobyTT, is it possible to get some info on the folding mirror motor from the spare one? 
I'm still thinking of a way to make the mirrors fold on key lock/unlock.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

psmith98752 said:


> I tried and failed at this - the glass just didn't seem to want to come off. In the end I'm getting the local garage to change both over for 0.8 hrs in total.


This is a good plan. As you say it's 0.4 hours per mirror, and if the glass won't come off you can bet that other parts could be even more awkward! Depending on what mirrors you have, the glass alone can cost more than 0.8 hours labour so it can be best to get the dealer to do the job in any case.



Hadaak said:


> ScoobyTT, is it possible to get some info on the folding mirror motor from the spare one?
> I'm still thinking of a way to make the mirrors fold on key lock/unlock.


I don't have a spare motor, just the stuff in the bag of fixings. What info are you after?


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## hugy (Dec 4, 2007)

ScoobyTT said:


> I do, but I need it to replace the one that's rusted in mine - not that I can get it out so it may be there for some time. :?
> 
> If you order part number "8J0 898 011", that's a bag of bits and bobs for the mirrors which includes said screw and a bunch of others such as the 6 for the indicator strip. The bag is only a couple of UK pounds, and I would recommend treating that soft screw with something to try and rust proof it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Scooby.
I think I will do that.
Although with the screw two thirds in it doesn't seem to have made any difference to the mirror.
How does this screw rust as its alloy(i think)
Oh one more thing I think my drivers side mirror does not click back into place when pushed to the click stop for some reason.
I guess I did something wrong when re fitting the mirror housing?


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

hugy said:


> How does this screw rust as its alloy(i think)


I thought, and may have said in the guide, that it's aluminium. I thought it was as it's so soft. On taking the glass off months later I found the hole for the Torx has rusted to hell and back. I think it's probably made of pig iron or something equally mushy. I've seen mention before of this being by design to prevent theft :?



hugy said:


> Oh one more thing I think my drivers side mirror does not click back into place when pushed to the click stop for some reason. I guess I did something wrong when re fitting the mirror housing?


It sounds like it. I had a similar issue with one of mine - the one that acted up whilst trying to get the twist lock back into place. What you'll probably find (if I remember rightly) is that the main mirror mounting has rotated a bit out of step with the section with the L groove for the twist lock. I can't remember off-hand how I sorted it out. You may find it's clipping at a later point further rearward, which is what mine did. Your best best is to have a look at the gubbins and try and figure out what it's doing. If the mounting is screwed to the car with that soft bolt you may find that twisting the housing forwards again and then back may reset it. Otherwise it'll be a bit of trial and educated guesswork, sorry... Mine did go back to normal so it should be possible to reset yours too.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

ScoobyTT said:


> Hadaak said:
> 
> 
> > ScoobyTT, is it possible to get some info on the folding mirror motor from the spare one?
> ...


take a look at this project :wink:

http://www.********.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=148866


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

I see.. as far as I know the mirror base is sold as a complete unit. None of the workshop material I've seen for the mirrors indicates any dismantling of those parts. Sorry, I can't help there.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Question on the wing (actually door) mirror itself:

Is the plastic housing hollow or not? I'm considering a tiny mod: drilling a small hole in the housing at the lowest end, just under the mirror itself. The puddle of water that always sits in my mirror housing after a shower is annoying me.  
When the housing is solid, then I'm sure no water will go elsewhere after the holes have been drilled, other than ending up on the door itself.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

The housings are very light, but I do not believe that they are hollow. Aside from the interior screw fixings they just aren't fragile enough in my view. I do not know for certain though. If you were to drill a hole and did find them to be hollow, you could always seal between them once the hole was made, and then neaten up the sealant.


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## hugy (Dec 4, 2007)

ScoobyTT said:


> hugy said:
> 
> 
> > How does this screw rust as its alloy(i think)
> ...


Thanks,I'll give it a try when it stops raining.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

ScoobyTT said:


> The housings are very light, but I do not believe that they are hollow. Aside from the interior screw fixings they just aren't fragile enough in my view. I do not know for certain though. If you were to drill a hole and did find them to be hollow, you could always seal between them once the hole was made, and then neaten up the sealant.


Thanks for your reply. I'll have to make up my mind at some stage I guess and just try.


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## pablos (Jan 14, 2003)

Great write up. Thanks.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

Glad it was of use. 

Version 2 is here: 
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=254428

There are slight amendments to the text, and the inclusion of the additional pictures provided in this topic.


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## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

maybe u can help scooby ..

i followed all ur steps , at the end im trying to put back the soft screw* right down corner but u can see only the half of the hole ..

so i cant put the screw and i tried to turn and stuff but just doesnt work bro


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

I had that happen too. The damn thing wouldn't budge. Don't feel tempted to stick something in the hole to lever it around because that'll bugger up the threads a treat, though if you have the appropriate thread-cutting tools they're easy enough to re-tap.

It's tricky because the mirror likes to spring into set places and that can interfere with locking it back in, and one side of the car is always tighter than the other. The main things to try are twisting the mirror forwards again as if to unlock it, and try again. Other than that, try some lubricant to help the twist lock slide around into position. You can also try twisting the mirror rearward, but this doesn't always move the mounting around into position, but if it does you may be able to get the screw back in, and then restore the mirror's position. You can get into a position where the mirror doesn't settle on its springs to the right positions. Gently coaxing it and/or removing it are your tactics there.


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## leonttmk2 (Jun 22, 2012)

Just finished installing the TTS mirrors on my black TT 2008 quattro.

I would like to say a big thank you to the author of this HowTo guide


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## Ljmooore (Feb 8, 2010)

Ive just tried to change my wings on my tt to the tts mirrors but hit a brick wall when it came getting that mushy crap screw out it just turned to mush whilst try to unscrew it. I'm desperate to get these mirrors on please help me! Any suggestion much appreciated. Already ordered the replacement screw.


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## Racdavid (Mar 5, 2012)

Brute force worked for me. You could try what i done and hammer in a plain flat screw driver. The mushed bolt will take the shape of the screwdriver then turn. But you need to watch just how hard you hit it or you could break the mirror housing. It was a nightmare for me too. Both sides were totally seized. Good luck. But id advise if you aren't sure what you are doing then stop and take it to a garage or itl cost you a lot for two new mirrors. I wouldn't replace with that bolt again. I used a normal bolt which can be removed again if needed so i don't end up with the same problem again.


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## leonttmk2 (Jun 22, 2012)

Had the same problem with the left wing mirror.

Did the same thing that racdavid suggested


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## Racdavid (Mar 5, 2012)

make sure the plain screw driver is a decent one and sharp so that it will dig in and get a grip. You will see the screw taking the shape once you start hammering it. Might be an idea to get someone to hold the mirror for you when you are doing it to take any stress off the housing. That stupid little screw is all that holds the mirror on really.


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