# Coolant Level keeps dropping



## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Noticed last couple of months that the coolant level keeps dropping every 2-3 weeks giving the low level warning light. I have not noticed a leak anywhere so not sure whether it is normal to use that much coolant in such a short space of time.

Any ideas?

2011 MK2


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Have you checked the oil cap for white sludge. If you have that then it would mean a blown gasket, causing water to go into the engine a mix with the oil.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

If all is well, there should be zero loss of coolant. I've not added any to mine in three years of ownership.

If there are no leaks from the rad, hoses etc then, as C00P5TT5 says, the likely problem is a blown head gasket which is allowing coolant to enter the cylinders.

It's something that needs to diagnosed and dealt with. Just keeping topping up the header tank is not a good long term idea.


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## McEnroe (Oct 7, 2016)

Get the cooling system pressure tested - if you cannot see any obvious signs of a leak-
Also sniff test will tell if you have oil mixing where it should not- sometimes you will get mayo on oil cap- this can be as simple as car mainly used for short journeys


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

The coolant is in a closed system and there shouldn't be any consumption as such. Did you have any work done recently that would mean changing the coolant? If so, there may be air trapped in the system and when released, the coolant level drops. This would, however, show quite quickly, so could only be the case if you have done few miles since then.
If not you need to tract down the leak, which can be external (e.g. radiator) or internal as previous post suggests.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Replace the reservoir cap, perhaps it's not sealing fully or the relief valve is weak.
Hoggy.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Right after further inspection there is no white sludge or anything in the or around the oil cap. I have however noticed a small amount of liquid when I look straight down the engine bay on left hand side by the light, so suspect I may have a leak somewhere. I did have a service a couple of months ago. Possibly a leaky pipe?


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## MarksBlackTT (Nov 29, 2016)

What's the end of the oil dip-stick look like?


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Checked and fine looks like I have a small leak in the bottom left hand side will need to get it checked out


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Still not got to the bottom of this, the rac guy has checked the pressure in the water system and said it was a minor tiny leak but could not identify where it was.

Tried using the radseal stuff as recommended by eurocarparts and rac and funnily enough the leak got worse! So need to find time to get to the garage and get it checked out fully. For the time being im checking the levels everyday


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## Gray79 (Feb 10, 2017)

scarface_uk said:


> Still not got to the bottom of this, the rac guy has checked the pressure in the water system and said it was a minor tiny leak but could not identify where it was.
> 
> Tried using the radseal stuff as recommended by eurocarparts and rac and funnily enough the leak got worse! So need to find time to get to the garage and get it checked out fully. For the time being im checking the levels everyday


Nooooooo, never use rad seal, it bungs up internals of the engine and the radiator core. Traditionally used by dodgy dealers to bodge something up to get rid of it, not a proper fix at all.


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## Barmybob (Nov 4, 2015)

Petrol or TDi?

On the TDI the EGR cooler can fail giving these exact symptoms.

Been there / done that


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Usually best way to find it is to get the engine up to operating pressure and sit there with it idling for a while. This will pressurise the system and is more likely to expose any leaks. Then watch inside the engine bay for any signs of steam escaping. You should smell anti-freeze first and you may be able to feel warm moist air escaping from the source. A torch beam might help to identify the source, especially if done when its dark.
You should also consider checking the water pump. A worn pump / seals can cause intermittent coolant loss in the early stages, until it eventually becomes more serious.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

as with most car problems, just when you think you have sorted it, it comes back with a bang!

so the leak appears to be back and getting worse, if I stand directly infront of radiator and look down the water appears to be pooling in the centre of the car, to be it could be a loose pipe as the water needs topping every morning and evening after I finish work. the needle never gets over the mid point though so is not overheating...yet!

Someone suggested could be the water pump, is this a pricey fix?


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## Roller Skate (May 18, 2015)

scarface_uk said:


> as with most car problems, just when you think you have sorted it, it comes back with a bang!
> 
> so the leak appears to be back and getting worse, if I stand directly infront of radiator and look down the water appears to be pooling in the centre of the car, to be it could be a loose pipe as the water needs topping every morning and evening after I finish work. the needle never gets over the mid point though so is not overheating...yet!
> 
> Someone suggested could be the water pump, is this a pricey fix?


Take it to a garage and get it pressure tested. Puddles are not necessarily an indicator of where the leak is coming from.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Ok taken to the garage and it's defo not the radiator phew! However it appears to be coming from the plastic housing under the induction manifold. Mechanic couldn't identify exactly where or how to get to it without stripping down parts of the engine. Any ideas what it could be and does anyone know of an audi approved garage in Midlands area that specialisies in repairs?


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## Roller Skate (May 18, 2015)

scarface_uk said:


> Ok taken to the garage and it's defo not the radiator phew! However it appears to be coming from the plastic housing under the induction manifold. Mechanic couldn't identify exactly where or how to get to it without stripping down parts of the engine. Any ideas what it could be and does anyone know of an audi approved garage in Midlands area that specialisies in repairs?


Was it properly pressure tested? And ultimately if you need to strip parts back you need to strip parts back.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

he didn't pressure test it in the end.

think I have managed to find a garage that can sort the issue, will report back next week.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Well the car has been picked up by the RAC and taken to a garage for full inspection. Turns out the waterpump needs to be replaced. Hopefully should have the car back all sorted by tomorrow.

Will update with the damage £££!


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

So have got the car back and the water pump has been replaced, £320 lighter but now have a fully functioning car! Yay


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

I take it that you have seen this thread: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1535394 in which the radiator seems to be to blame.

As has been said - you need the system pressure-testing.


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## Barmybob (Nov 4, 2015)

GaryG said:


> I take it that you have seen this thread: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1535394 in which the radiator seems to be to blame.
> 
> As has been said - you need the system pressure-testing.


I would generally agree but it is of little help when the EGR fails. All you learn from pressure testing is that over a few hours the pressure drops and the water disappears, something you kind of already know :?

Good to hear that in this case, as with most, pressure testing worked and found that it was the water pump. Even at £300 it was much cheaper than an EGR


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Yes seen the other thread, when the undercarriage was taken off we could see that the water wasn't leaking from the radiator so ruled that out, eventually the mechanic found the source of the problem and could see where the water was running down from.

The £300 seemed steep but as said if I was changing the radiator the costs would have been far higher.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

I guess you have a TFSI? Water pump is a weak part on these and develops a leak. My previous A3 1.8 TFSI had been leaking for 3 years before I got around to change the pump. You can either change the whole housing or just the pump. I have changed these a lot in my shop.

The leak was worse in winter, I had to add around two litres of coolant during last winter so it wasn't so bad. Coolant level went from max to min in about 1.5 weeks. First it was alerting coolant level in startups and it went away after 15 seconds after the coolant level normalized. As I knew how it behaved I wasn't concerned about the alert and filled it to the max the next time I came home.

The pump is located under the intake manifold on the gearbox side. Very narrow place to open those torx bolts holding it in place. The pump is driven by a small timing belt which is driven by a shaft going through the engine internals - the other end is with the timing chain. The belt is hidden under a cover so it is not visible directly.

Every time I get a new customer with any TFSI engine, one of the first things I ask is "how is your coolant level behaving?" :mrgreen:

I just found this thread, if I had been here before I would have pointed out the water pump from your first post :wink:


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