# How To: RNS-E Screen Anti-Glare Coating Removal & Replacement



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

For those of you suffering from the unsightly look of the fading or scratched anti-glare coating on your RNS-E screen, here's one solution to the problem. Simply polish away the anti-glare coating and install a smart-device anti-glare screen protector.

The following link will provide you with step-by-step instructions for completely removing the screen from the RNS-E should you want to do so. However, I managed to skip most of the steps and only removed the screen bezel, which is held in place with just two small screws, and it still worked out okay.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/rn ... ff.199794/

*NOTE* - When working on the RNS-E and airbag light connector, leave the key out of the ignition while you're doing this so you don't inadvertently turn on the ignition. This way when you remove the airbag light connector, you don't to worry about having to reset the airbag system.

*Tools and Materials:*

1. "0" or "00"-phillips jewelers screwdriver used to remove the screen bezel (only two screws need to be removed).

*NOTE* - Be sure your jewelers screwdriver fits perfectly into the small screws or you risk rounding out the Phillips head slots.

2. Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (UPC Code 070382-800192).
3. Microfiber cloth (x2); one to apply & polish, one to remove the polish.
4. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
5. Anti-glare screen protector for iPad or Tablet. I used one for an Apple iPad Pro as it is large enough to get four in case you make a mistake. (sbsmobile.com, UPC Code 018417-211201). If you don't use this particular screen protector, be sure you get a plastic screen protector and not a glass one as you will need to cut it to fit.

For removing the RNS-E -
1. Radio release keys (x4).
2. The RNS-E PIN number (May be required if it's not the original factory fitment).

*Steps:*

1. Using the radio release keys, slide the RNS-E out of the chassis to access the cables. I recommend placing a heavy towel over the shifter and center console to avoid scratching the surfaces as you pull the RNS-E out of the dash.

*NOTE* - If unsure how the keys work or how to remove the RNS-E, click *here*.

2. With the RNS-E pulled out as far as it will go, press the open button (1) then disconnect the Quad-lock first to kill power and the screen will remain open. Then disconnect the remaining cables/wires and remove the RNS-E from the vehicle.









3. Find and remove the two small Phillips screws that hold the screen frame and remove the screen frame.

4. Be sure to give the bottle of PlastX a good shake, then apply a small amount to the microfiber cloth and begin polishing the screen. I used straight back-and-forth strokes (not circular like when polishing the car) and did not see any micro-scratches. The polish has a super-fine abrasive so it won't leave any residual scratches. The anti-glare coating should begin to wear off as you apply pressure but will take several applications to remove it all. Be sure to use your other hand to support the screen so you don't damage the assembly as you apply pressure. Switch to the clean cloth and remove any residue.

5. Repeat step 4 as often as necessary until the anti-glare coating is completely removed. NOTE - I was unable to remove all of the anti-glare and had a very narrow border (aprox. 1-2mm) around the entire screen. This is not really a problem so don't polish the screen too hard in an attempt to remove it. Once the screen bezel is back in place, you won't be able to see it. Occasionally test-fit the screen bezel to ensure you have removed enough so that it's not noticeable.

6. Once you are satisfied with the results, use IPA and a new microfiber cloth to ensure you have removed any residual PlastX that may have ended up between the screen and silver metal frame. If you have a can of air, blow the surfaces to remove any fibers or particles so they don't get trapped between the screen and screen protector.

7. Measure and cut the screen protector to fit. I cut mine slightly smaller than the screen allowing for a 0.3-0.5mm gap between the edge of screen protector and the silver metal frame. Apply the screen protector per the manufactures recommendations.

8. Re-install the screen bezel and then the re-install the RNS-E back into the vehicle.

Basically that's it. Pretty straight forward little evening project. Expect it will take an hour or two.

*Sources - *

Links to parts. I bought everything from Amazon:

*Meguiar's PlastX*
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-Plast ... 27s+plastx

*SBS Screen Protector for iPad Pro, Anti-Glare*
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SBS-Anti-Finge ... r+iPad+Pro

*Microfiber cloth*
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microfibre-Exe ... +polishing


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Nice write-up.

One tip I'd add, rather than cut up an iPad / tablet screen protector you can buy a protector cut specifically for an RNS-E
I used one made by Brotech. Antiglare, fits perfectly.

See: 
http://www.protectionfilms24.com/articl ... 21346.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DV ... UTF8&psc=1

Brotech also makes a tempered glass model but it 'might' be a bit shiny?
http://www.protectionfilms24.com/articl ... 21346.html


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *FNChaos* - I decided to go with the iPad screen protector since it's big enough I could cut four smaller ones out of it. That way if I screwed one up (as I did) I had spares. I'm no pro on applying these things bubble free like the guys at the phones stores, so having a few extras came in handy.

IMHO the tempered glass doesn't bring anything since I'm not using the screen protector to "protect" the screen. Plastic was the material of choice since I decided to cut it to fit. Keep in mind the whole point of this exercise was to remove and replace the anti-glare coating as inexpensively as possible.

In the end, whether you go with plastic or glass, custom fit or cut to size - it all works.  And thanks for the links to the RNS-E screen protectors. That's a nice option if anyone's interested.


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## Ciderman (Mar 11, 2019)

Hi,
I have some G3 Pro Liquid in my shed, would this be ok to remove the anti glare coating ?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No idea. You've have to read the label and see what it says. I suggested *Meguiar's PlastX* because it is a very, very fine abrasive designed for plastic. Just be sure whatever you use is okay to use on plastic and isn't so abrasive that it would scratch the surface.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Apologies for thread resurrection but is it completely necessary to remove the head unit? - can the bezel screws be got to without pulling the entire unit? I was thinking of doing this “in situ” if possible…….


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would imagine so. If you go that route, it's probably easier from the passengers side so the steering wheel and parking brake lever isn't in the way. I just found it easier to do this with it right in front of me while sitting comfortably at my desk rather than struggling with it in the car. But there's one sure way to find out! 

Once you have the screen down, be sure to turn off the ignition so you can't accidentally close the screen while you're working on it.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Decided not to go down the “in situ” method as I’ve got to remove the HU anyway to replace the ashtray and centre console I bought previously. I’ve now got a genuine set of Audi removal keys but had a quick question…..

The passenger air bag illumination light - does that have its own connector that needs unplugging?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Yes it does.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, thanks. Will unplugging It throw and airbag faults? is it advisable to turn off the warning light from the glovebox before removal?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Okay, thanks. Will unplugging It throw and airbag faults? is it advisable to turn off the warning light from the glovebox before removal?


I don't think that's going to do anything (if you have the airbag off switch) because it's still gonna run the cold-lamp diag on the light even if the airbag is set to OFF. 

Best idea is to NOT turn the ignition on with that light (or any part of the airbag system) disconnected. If you do you'll get the airbag light coming on and you won't be able to turn it off until you reset it with something like VCDS or OBDeleven. That said, if you have those things then you're fine, 'cause you can just clear the codes and have it reset. Otherwise just make sure to plug it in if you turn the ignition on--that will avoid a code set and airbag light on situation.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ve got OBDEleven so can reset any fault codes, just maybe over thinking things as I need to remove the RNSE with the screen in the open position to be able to remove the bezel to refurb the screen. I wasn’t sure if that required power via ignition on to operate the screen - I guess it does to a degree.

I played about the other day and the screen auto closes pretty quickly after opening and key removed from ignition.

I suppose thinking about it logically, the best way is to remove the HU, open the screen and quickly pull the plugs from the rear of the HU and then before unhooking the airbag connector, ensure ignition is off, key removed…..then disconnect the passenger airbag connection to avoid issue.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> I suppose thinking about it logically, the best way is to remove the HU, open the screen and quickly pull the plugs from the rear of the HU and then before unhooking the airbag connector, ensure ignition is off, key removed…..then disconnect the passenger airbag connection to avoid issue.


That would be my strategy as well. You could also just stop the screen from closing by hand--it _should_ just stop the motor at that point and not re-try until the ignition is cycled again (or the power removed and restored to the HU) but there's is some degree of risk there you might break something. You can also do this via removing the correct fuse instead of fumbling trying to unlock/pull out the quadlock connector on the unit.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

The “pulling the fuse” sounds like a good idea, far easier to do that as long as it’s the right fuse. I’ll have to look into that 🤔


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Been a while since I did this mod, but I seem to recall I pulled the RNS-E out as far as I could, opened the screen and then disconnect the Quad-lock, effectively killing power to the head unit.

*Note* - The ignition was OFF and the key was not in the ignition during this process to avoid accidentally turning it on and causing and issue with the air bag system since the air bag light connector has to be removed.

Patience and care will be required as the air bag light connector is a bit fiddly since it's small and difficult to get to the retaining clip that holds the connector to the socket.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just thought I’d update on my own experience of doing this after doing it yesterday.

The main issue I had was with the airbag warning light on the RNSE. Wether it was down to my car being an early mk2 or not, I don’t know, but the airbag light connector was not as pictured above with spring removal tabs either side. It took me ages to finally figure it out. I had to fully release and remove the airbag warning light and THEN disconnect it. This was due to the absence on release clips on the side and the only way to release was a small hole on the top of the connector plug itself, only possible to disengage with the complete light assembly removed from the RNSE. Removal of the light assembly was done by pushing in the metal spring clips either side (as seen below) and pushing the light assembly forward from the rear……fiddly to say the least, but that was the ONLY way to get access to the removal hole located on the top side of the warning light lug…..very poor design….best done with the RNSE half hanging out of the dash….

Once I’d figured that out, the rest was easy removal. I managed to open the screen and disconnect the quad lock before it closed. Jobs a good ‘un and restoration and reinstalling was fairly simple.

I did use Meguiars PlastRX and made maybe a dozen passes using a combo of left-right and circular movements after masking off the outer silver wedge of the screen.

All done and am very happy - pics below of what I mean about the passenger airbag light connector and some “after” shots - didn’t think to do a before 🤦‍♀️


























The airbag connector


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