# Cruise Control Retrofit



## Audimat (Feb 22, 2016)

Hi, I have the Audi kit for the installation of cruise control to my 2011 TT 2.0 TFSI, and also someone who can code when installed.

I'm wondering whether to give the installation a go myself. Does anyone have any experience of retrofitting cruise control?

Or is there anyone living close to Mansfield, Nottinghamshire that would be willing to install for me?

Many thanks


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I'm just off jnc 22 of m1 if any good ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

If you have access to vcds and have the full cruise kit then do it yourself mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## craigbeal (Aug 21, 2008)

I've fitted it myself, I've used VCDS over the years so understood the ins and outs of that part without bother, the rest is a bit fiddly and harder to do than the kit i fitted to my MY09 Audi A4 due to the ecu part of fitting and running the control wire to the wheel control unit etc. If given the choice of getting the kit at a cheeper price and fitting it my self or paying more to get somebody else to do it, i would get somebody else to do it!


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Agreed, the wire to the ecu part is a pain in the Arse and removing the security cage from the ecu

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Audimat (Feb 22, 2016)

Thanks chaps.

If I can find someone who's done it before and is willing to do it for not too much money I'll let them do it, otherwise I'll have to give it a go myself.


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I've done about 30 now and would recommend doing it yourself

There's a few factors to take into account, the wire running, the ecu security cage, the recalibration of angle sensor etc etc 
Hence why it's not really cheap labour wise

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> I've done about 30 now and would recommend doing it yourself
> 
> There's a few factors to take into account, the wire running, the ecu security cage, *the recalibration of angle sensor* etc etc
> Hence why it's not really cheap labour wise
> ...


Could you explain this bit please? I plan to fit CC at some point


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Once you had the steering module off the steering angle sensor requires recalibration 
Without doing it you'll loose power steering

You put it in calibration mode with vcds 
Then follow out the sequences of manoeuvres to reset it

If you don't already have mfsw then you'll also need to check your steering module is compatible for cruise

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> Once you had the steering module off the steering angle sensor requires recalibration
> Without doing it you'll loose power steering
> 
> You put it in calibration mode with vcds
> ...


Ah OK, I should be fine, I have module 8P0 953 549 F with MFSW.

Do you need to remove the module to add the new stalk?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes, you can just prize the front down far enough for the connector to pass but better removing it

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> Yes, you can just prize the front down far enough for the connector to pass but better removing it


Thanks


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I am currently piecing together information from the forum with the aim of doing this myself, but also in making a guide when done. It should help the OP too.

So far I have:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part 1: Check Wire

Undo the steering adjuster, pull the whole column as far as it goes and lock it off[/*]
Lie down in footwell to look up in the cowl from underneath[/*]
Between the lower slots you should only see two plugs. One is yellow, the one you need is black with a red release tab:[/*]
The empty one top right is pin 10[/*]
Orange / brown is pin 11[/*]
Orange / black is pin 12[/*]
Black (arrowed) is pin 13 (black and white as standard):







[/*]

If wire is missing it will need to be added - part 3.

Part 2: Replace Stalk

Disconnect battery[/*]
Remove airbag:[/*]
The air bag has two torque bolts, one at 3 o'clock & one at 9 o'clock. If you turn the wheel 90 degrees then you'll see a small cap, clip this off and undo the torques bolt. Then repeat the other side[/*]
The caps & bolts need to be top dead centre to remove easily. Note: they don't come completely out, you'll know when they're free[/*]

Remove steering wheel[/*]
Remove steering cowl:[/*]
Remove top half of steering cowl (clipped)[/*]
Remove bottom half (once top half is off and the bolt underneath is removed then the bottom comes off easy)[/*]

Unplug and remove the steering module then the slip ring[/*]
Remove indicator stalk[/*]
Add wire (if required) - part 3[/*]
Slip in the new one and reverse the above (trimming lower cowl)[/*]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ReTTro fit, would you mind taking a look over that so far and letting me know if it correct? I have more to add regarding adding the wire


----------



## legend139 (May 9, 2014)

ReTTro fit said:


> I've done about 30 now and would recommend doing it yourself
> 
> There's a few factors to take into account, the wire running, the ecu security cage, the recalibration of angle sensor etc etc
> Hence why it's not really cheap labour wise
> ...


Lea what's this recalibration? I don't recall doing this when I fitted cruise control?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I'll just add comments to each part then you can write / edit accordingly for your knowledge base write up

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

MT-V6 said:


> I am currently piecing together information from the forum with the aim of doing this myself, but also in making a guide when done. It should help the OP too.
> 
> So far I have:
> 
> ...


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

legend139 said:


> ReTTro fit said:
> 
> 
> > I've done about 30 now and would recommend doing it yourself
> ...


Basic Setting

Sensor for Steering Angle (G85)
Prerequisites:
Start the vehicle.
Turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
If the steering wheel is straight during the test drive then stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight.
Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.
System voltage at least 12.0 V.

[Select]
[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Coding-II - 11]
Enter 40168, to enable the basic setting.
[Do it!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
After a successful basic setting, field 2 should say "OK".
[Done, Go Back]
To make sure the basic setting was succesful, check the sensor again.
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004
[Go!]
Check field 1, the value has to be between -4.5 and +4.5 °.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> I'll just add comments to each part then you can write / edit accordingly for your knowledge base write up


Thanks for the extra info, will amend the guide. I have some more regarding the extra wire to add in too


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Part 3: Add Wire
ECU wire from Pin 13 on the Steering Controller (J527) direct to the engine ECU Connector:


1.8 Petrol Engine CCDA (ECU T94) Pin 45[/*]
2.0 Petrol Engine BWA, BPY, CDMA, CDLB (ECU T94) Pin 18[/*]
2.0 Petrol Engine CCTA, CCZA, CESA, CETA (ECU T94) Pin 45[/*]
2.5 5cyl Petrol Engine: CEPA (ECU T94) Pin 18[/*]
3.2 V6 Petrol Engine: BUB, CBRA (ECU T81) Pin 38[/*]
2.0 Diesel Engine: CBBB, CFGB (ECU T94) Pin 64[/*]


Remove wipers[/*]
Remove scuttle panel[/*]
Remove engine ECU from car, then from cage (security bolts)[/*]
[*]Where is a good location to run the wire through the firewall?[/*]
[*]I assume just add the new pin to the specified place as above and refit? What does the ECU T-- number mean? And are the pins numbered somewhere?

I have a V6 and this is all VCDS gives me, no mention of T81 etc:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 LA HW: 022 906 032 GP
Component: TT-3.2-DQ-EU4 1056 
Revision: 1QH02--- Serial number:
Coding: 0000178
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
VCID: 55A167DFFCF48DB6975-8000
[/*]


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

T81 is the description for the plug on the ecu
Pin 38 on terminal 81 plug 
( 81 terminals ) on v6

( 94 terminals ) on all other models

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I run my cables through the bulkhead to the right where the main loom of the car runs through a rubber grommet, brings you out behind the glovebox, then I run it across to drivers side to pin 13 on steering module

As for the security bolts, I slot the tops with a 1mm cutting disc and then use a large flat blade screwdriver to undo them

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> I run my cables through the bulkhead to the right where the main loom of the car runs through a rubber grommet, brings you out behind the glovebox, then I run it across to drivers side to pin 13 on steering module
> 
> As for the security bolts, I slot the tops with a 1mm cutting disc and then use a large flat blade screwdriver to undo them


Is the pin the same on each end of the wire? ie:









And did you use a dremel with the cutting disc?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes the pin is the same on each end 
So it's not that one in the pic 
It's a 000979009E

However, the one in the pic will work

I use a 1mm cutting blade in a 4" grinder

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> Yes the pin is the same on each end
> So it's not that one in the pic
> It's a 000979009E
> 
> ...


Cheers, will finish the write up when I complete fitting it


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Removed the engine ECU today to find that there doesn't seem to be anything preventing the largest connector from being removed:









The only security bolts I can see prevent the smaller connector from being removed.

So, this is the large connector, and it has 81 pins as expected for a V6 (can see the pin numbering if looking closely). Is this the connector that I need to add the new wire to (pin 38 for V6)?:


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I ran my wire from steering to ECU through a removable pannel in the bulkhead right above the steering column. Accessable right next to the ECU, you may need to move the wiper motor out the way, then there are 4 bolts holding this cover in place. Much easier than running it all behind the dash and glovebox.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> I ran my wire from steering to ECU through a removable pannel in the bulkhead right above the steering column. Accessable right next to the ECU, you may need to move the wiper motor out the way, then there are 4 bolts holding this cover in place. Much easier than running it all behind the dash and glovebox.


Thanks for the tip

I see you have a V6, any comments regarding the post above yours (engine ECU connectors and security bolts)?


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > I ran my wire from steering to ECU through a removable pannel in the bulkhead right above the steering column. Accessable right next to the ECU, you may need to move the wiper motor out the way, then there are 4 bolts holding this cover in place. Much easier than running it all behind the dash and glovebox.
> ...


Yep, mine didn't have any security bolts either, and yes, that's the correct plug


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Got the plug off, and pulled out the 'bank' of pins with pin 38 (rubber strip). All the empty pins have a space metal pin in them which I can use. Fiddly!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

barry_m2 said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > barry_m2 said:
> ...


The ecu has possibly already been out then for something


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

barry_m2 said:


> I ran my wire from steering to ECU through a removable pannel in the bulkhead right above the steering column. Accessable right next to the ECU, you may need to move the wiper motor out the way, then there are 4 bolts holding this cover in place. Much easier than running it all behind the dash and glovebox.


Nah Barry, more messing with stuff, the wipers, scuttle panel etc don't even have to be removed once you know where all the cable clips and ecu clips are, Long flex I rod, tape cable on it, push through main loom grommet, into passenger footwell, rod through to drivers side, pin it to steering ecu 
10 mins max


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

All I had to do was remove 3 bolts and push the wiper motor out the way, 4 bolts and the inspection panel was off and I could see straight into the cabin looking down onto the steering column.

I just thought that route was a lot easier, more so than running a cable round the back of the glove box etc.. Instead you just reaching in and grab the wire with your hand. This way only took 9m 30 seconds :wink:


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I must admit I didn't fancy touching the wiper motor so went with the glove box way, but ran out of time so instead my ECU and wire are on top of the engine while the scuttle is removed so they don't get wet :lol:


----------

