# Silver 2001 Quattro 225 Build, or is it rebuild?



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Hey all, been lurking on the forum for a while but didn't get round to putting up a thread when I picked my TT up so here it is. It's pretty lengthy so grab a cup of tea and some custard creams. All photos thumbnails in the name of saving bandwidth. [smiley=book2.gif]

For people who don't like reading and get bored easily here's a photo from when I picked it up and how it stands now. For those of you willing info below.

  

Right I'm going to start with a list of everything I've replaced in order to get this car to a useable and safe standard. Bear in mind however that I like my cars to be reliable and spend time checking everything over on a regular basis, even the slightest fault will annoy the hell out of me. :evil:

I'm adding links to where I purchased items from where applicable to help others as a quick reference. Please only use this as a guide the parts listed below and their suppliers are what has worked for me, I do not endorse or receive payments from any supplier listed below.


Downpipe (replaced with standard unfortunately) *Ebay*[/*]
Turbo to manifold gasket (This one caused me much heartache) Bolts £20 and gasket £4 approx *Audi Dealer*

Please don't attempt this unless yours has gone you will most likely be faced with mild steel bolts that will strip as soon as you go near them with a socket leaving you without a car and faced with removing the bolts by drilling them out, bolt extractors did not work for me and I wasted £26 on them. The new bolts are hardened stainless steel and are a much better part than the original fitted.

[/*]
Thermostat 82c version *Eurocarparts*[/*]
Both window micro switches Link

These are a direct replacement for the old switches and can be done in an afternoon with basic knowledge on removing a door card and some simple soldering. Be careful with the lock mechanisms as I broke one in my brute force and ignorance approach.

[/*]
All vacuum lines in engine bay including PCV system and all valves Creations Motorsport & AutoSiliconeHoses

For people who have either broken or split the hard plastic 90 degree elbow pipe on the lower PCV here's the part number 06A103213F.

Also the PCV valve part number 035103245A.

Pictures of pipes replaced BAM engine.
http://postimg.org/gallery/o6faj20g/

You will need roughly 3m X 4mm, 2m X 6mm and 1m X 8mm also grab some inexpensive small cable ties of whatever color you like this is more than ample for securing vacuum lines. However if you are replacing a line that has a reusable metal clip use this instead just be careful not to cut the silicone.

[/*]
New Silicone TIP Link

I'm aware of the Forge and Creations Motorsport options however at £61 this item fits perfectly in the car with trimming to MAF end of approx 3" this is to keep the pipe away from the rocker.

[/*]
New BOSCH MAF *Eurocarparts*[/*]
New N75 "E version" German Auto Parts[/*]
New DV[/*]
New window switch passengers side *Salvage*[/*]
Rear brakes overhaul[/*]
New dipstick and tube *Ebay*[/*]
New coolant bottle Link[/*]
New suspension control arm bushings, ARB bushes as well as suspension top mounts, ball joints and CV boots *Meyle Ebay*[/*]
New passenger door card as speaker cover was broken *Salvage*[/*]
New coolant temp sensor housing 06A 121 132A *Ebay* [/*]
New rocker gasket *Audi Dealer*

I refuse to pay £20 for Audi approved gasket sealant and instead picked up a big tube of blue gasket seal at a fifth of the price and this has worked fine for me.

[/*]
Touch up lacquer peel on drivers door and filler cap[/*]
Coil pack recall done graciously by Wolverhampton Audi *Audi Dealer*
[/*]
Pre cat lambda sensor BOSCH part number for BAM engine 0258007068. *Ebay*[/*]
If anyone wants any advice or help with anything listed above please feel free to private message me or reply to this thread and I'll do my best to help, I would put up some guides but sadly didn't take photos when I was doing the work. I can recommend parts from experience or anything else you might need to know.

There's probably more and I'll add it if I remember. When I bought the car it had 127000 miles on the clock and after a test drive a look round it seemed only a few things needed fixing but as you can see from the list above there has been a lot of work done. Mainly due to the age of components these cars are hitting over 14 years old now and all the rubber and plastic is starting to break down. I remember finding a spilt in one pipe replacing that and then the pipe it was connected to broke and eventually I had gone through the entire PCV to find almost every hose had a crack or split in. I chose against putting a catch can in although in hindsight this would have been a good idea (and much cheaper).

I've only done a few mods to the car so far, my main priority has been getting the car reliable and roadworthy. All my boost leaks are fixed and the only things left to do are a timing belt change and strip the headlights down the replace both levelling motors as they've stopped working (it's not the sensors on the axles).

Mods include:


Genuine TT wheels from the 3.2 V6 I believe to replace the replica A8 wheels (I think, someone will correct me)[/*]
Honeycomb valance for the back[/*]
LED lights front and back[/*]
Standard exhaust de resonated[/*]
Racecar red vacuum lines 8) [/*]
China special cargo net, because I have better things to spend £50 on  [/*]
Red calipers[/*]
Bosch Aerotwins[/*]
Cassette to iPod adapter[/*]
Private plates on[/*]

Also a picture of my previous car. Seat Ibiza 1.9 TDi SE with a remap to 130bhp.



Finally some pics from Santa Pod RWYB. The ST is my mates car and running 320bhp. Struggled to keep up with me off the line however, I ran 14 seconds average if memory serves correct.



I'll add more as I go but that's me done for now, I leave you with a picture of a Giant Sea TurTle :wink: from my trip to the Sea Life centre in Birmingham.



Craig


----------



## burtz (Sep 7, 2015)

Looks really good mate


----------



## Desert_Green_TT (Aug 15, 2014)

Looks like you've been a busy chap as that's quite a long list you've worked through. What's next, coilovers and spacers or are you keeping it relatively stock?

As I'm a complete mechanical dunce, how did you change the coolant bottle/header tank? Did you use brake pipe clamps on the pipes to avoid leaks or just rip it out and deal with the carnage later?

p.s. Nice Turtle dude...or should that be TurTTle?


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Thanks for your comments, I'm looking at getting the roof wrapped in black and saving up for a remap and full exhaust. After that who knows!

In regards to the coolant bottle I changed mine as the bottle was that dirty you couldn't even see the coolant in the header tank. I changed mine whilst I was doing a service so had already drained the coolant off but if you clamp the line at the bottom of the tank you'll only loose what's in the header and if you're quick turn it upside down and you'll hardly spill anything. It's something you can do yourself with bare minimum tools.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261950114313?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thats the one I bought however I think it was slightly cheaper when I got it. Hope that helps.


----------



## Desert_Green_TT (Aug 15, 2014)

Spot on, thanks for the advice and the link mate. Mine is also very brown and grubby so I'm looking to swap it out for a new one when I get the coolant flushed... but a buggered head gasket isn't exactly helping with the under bonnet cosmetics at the moment [smiley=bomb.gif]

Slightly strange as to why Audi designed the coolant trim cover so that you can't easily look at the level without taking the trim off?!


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Nice one for the micro switch link 

expansion tank £12 from tps

thermostat and coolant sensor should of been bought genuine


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanx for all the links 8)


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

It was the only place I could find that sold the "genuine" microswitches, I did try to use some generic ones from Maplin however they didn't have the lugs on the side so that they fit into the casing properly. Those replacements have worked since February this year so they seem to be holding up and I would recommend them to anyone who has the same issue.

I'm aware of the issues people have with aftermarket parts but the thermostat I bought from Eurocarparts was around £6 and has worked since March fine, if I have to replace it again within the year I'll buy genuine but I was in a bit of a pinch when I bought it. I haven't replaced the coolant temp sensor only the housing it fits into see below. As the plastic is generally crap in these engines the part had split and was leaking coolant. I'm still on the original coolant temp sensor (green top).



Also bear in mind that the links I've posted aren't a definitive guide to what people should buy only what I've bought and found to work in my personal experience (wish I'd gotten the coolant bottle cheaper though, live and learn).

I have also added more detail to the original post and I will keep updating as necessary.


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Either no one knew or just couldnt find a genuine switch anywhere as it's always rs parts or thay rubbish one from maples lol

I'm glad you've solved the mister of where from haha [smiley=mexicanwave.gif]

As long as they all do the job then happy driving 

Those plastic housings are an awful design but I guess they last upto 15yrs lol


----------



## alun (Aug 2, 2010)

you beat a 320bhp focus in a drag race.? what are your engine mods and tuning?


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Never said I beat him just that I kept up with him off the line, quattro vs a fwd car on a damp start line. He's sat there spinning the wheels and I was already gone. Beat me by a second on the runs.


----------



## Lucky13 (May 18, 2013)

Hi,

Just wondering why you changed the downpipe? I sometimes suspect my flexible section of being dodgy as it doesn't look great but I don't have any clear symptoms of any issues or a clear sound of blowing. Did you do it yourself?

Thanks


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Diagnosed as flexi section blowing was £60 off Ebay for a second hand one, didn't have the cash at the time otherwise would have dropped in the upgrade, very difficult job to do took a day.


----------



## Lucky13 (May 18, 2013)

Strykezero said:


> Diagnosed as flexi section blowing was £60 off Ebay for a second hand one, didn't have the cash at the time otherwise would have dropped in the upgrade, very difficult job to do took a day.


Thanks for the reply. What were your symptoms out of interest? Obviously blowing noise?


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Lucky13 said:


> Strykezero said:
> 
> 
> > Diagnosed as flexi section blowing was £60 off Ebay for a second hand one, didn't have the cash at the time otherwise would have dropped in the upgrade, very difficult job to do took a day.
> ...


Symptoms were a blowing noise from under the car could feel the gases leaking out when I put my hand close to it, upon taking the downpipe out I found that the flexi had split around the edges and the mid section of the flexi was weak.


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Strykezero, you don't happen to have a micro switch spare by any chance?.

I'll be happy to pay for its cost and delivery as I'm selling the car and someone's coming to collect it Saturday.

Many thanks

Sandy


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Sorry due to the cost of them and the bespoke nature of the part it's not something I keep on hand you can try and make a maplin one fit or try packing the switch out with some rubber to make sure it makes contact. I'd let the new owner sort it out, no one told me they didn't work on my car and it's not something I noticed when viewing the car.


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Strykezero said:


> Sorry due to the cost of them and the bespoke nature of the part it's not something I keep on hand you can try and make a maplin one fit or try packing the switch out with some rubber to make sure it makes contact. I'd let the new owner sort it out, no one told me they didn't work on my car and it's not something I noticed when viewing the car.


That's fine 

I've replaced the switches but for some reason this one did work and then stopped working and the catch it self is fine so I'm thinking the micro switch although it looked fine when it was fitted.
I'm going to have to let him do the repair although he said he'd pay for it if I can find a repairer and me being me would have just done the repair and thought nothing of it as its inly a few pennies but there's not enough time for me to order those from the link you kindly posted up.

I've told to new owner to be of the fault as I don't like lies myself so wouldn't want anyone to be cursing me after buying my car :mrgreen:

He's left a deposit without even looking at my tt so who knows what he'll say when he comes to view it. only time will tell 

Thanks again for your reply.

Sandy


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

I'd check the wiring as a 10 minute job, if your determined to fix it get a set of switches ordered and tell the buyer you'll fix it when they arrive Audi don't sell the switches so they'd change the whole lock mech. Hope you get it sorted.


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

I'll check the door wiring as I know these can break causing intermittent faults but if I don't find anything, the buyer will have to get it sorted out himaelf as he's flying over from Newcastle rhis saturday and it's not a joke selling to someone who's willing to travel this far for a motor and find out this and that's wrong with it.

out of curiosity, how long does it take for the switches to arrive as the seller's site says 60 days  off to bed now so will reply tomorrow.

Thanks again and good night 

Sandy


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Switches took about and month to come that's the only negative with them.


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

That's a long process as the last time I I ordered a phone cover it came within a week and then was faulty :lol:

Thanks

Sandy


----------



## Strykezero (Mar 24, 2015)

Thanks Zerocake!


----------



## Stillmotion88 (Jun 16, 2017)

Hi there

Excellent thread

May I ask:

Just a quick question is a high mileage 2003 say 100.000 miles going to need a great deal of work to ensure it is safe and reliable

Many thanks

Lawrence


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Stillmotion88 said:


> Hi there
> Excellent thread
> May I ask:
> Just a quick question is a high mileage 2003 say 100.000 miles going to need a great deal of work to ensure it is safe and reliable
> ...


Hi, Depends on service history, suspension/clutch etc could have been replaced or they are the next jobs & reason for sale.
Hoggy.


----------



## Cee Apple (Jun 15, 2017)

Hi,

Looks good big list of stuff you have done! I spoke to someone about my TT 120K he said I should think about changing the vaccum lines ... I just kind of said yeah probably (new to the car mechanics scene), I was wondering why you changed the vaccum hoses on yours?

Cheers 
Apple


----------



## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

cool post, looks like a great car


----------



## stevehayes01 (Jul 17, 2017)

Very nice car.. so for most of the work you did is it more preventative or is was it a repair as they were 100% needed? Sorry for the lame question but I am considering buying a MK1 TT 225 here in the states and trying to gauge what I am in for as for repairs etc.. and I will be doing the work myself and not a daily driver.


----------

