# OIL CHANGE HOW TO



## John-H

*OIL CHANGE SERVICE*

I've been meaning to post this for a while as it might be useful to anyone wanting to do their own oil change and service on their TT. Why? It saves cost and you know it's done properly. You also get to inspect your innards for leaks or other problems and get to know them better :wink: . This is what it cost me for a service recently:

Audi oil filter: £4.46 (Audi P/N: 06A 115 561 B)
Pollen filter : £9.69 (Audi P/N: 1H0 819 644 B)
5 Litres Motul E-tech 0W-40 503.01 : £32.74 (0.5L left over for top ups) 
*Total = £46.89*

I should mention that I've got a K&N panel filter so no need to renew - it just needs brushing gently. Anyway...

The E-tech oil is supposed to be the best for the 225 engine by all accounts as it's a fully synthetic Ester based oil. The Ester base, as used in aircraft engines, is polarised and electrostatically clings to metal surfaces and provides lubrication in the vital moments before oil pressure is established at engine start. The 0W-40 does not thin out as much as the 0W-30 when hot which tends to be better too.

Note: Since writing this guide, Motul superseded their 0W-40 product and introduced a 0W-30 specifically intended for the TT. It was still Ester based and was then still the only Ester based product available amongst all the manufacturers so for that reason still had advantage in that respect over Mobil 1 for example. On balance Motul still regarded it as an improved product.

The later oil was Motul 8100 X-lite 0W-30 Synthetic Ester oil (VW 503.01). However after a few years something changed and they sneakily downgraded the specification to VW502.00. Apparently it costs a lot to qualify an oil for a specification and the marketing decision was to qualify it for VW502.00 and not bother with VW503.01 which was now an older specification superseded by the low ash VW504.00.

So what to replace it with?

Often higher viscosity oil is used for competition in the belief that momentary starvation will still have oil remaining in the bearings. On the other hand a thinner oil will return and replenish the bearings quicker from the pump. An Ester's electrostatic cling goes some way to reduce the need for viscosity during starvation which is one reason Ester oils are specified for aircraft engines. High pressure bearing additives in the oil also protect from starvation.

Apparently all the 0W40 synthetic products have more polymer viscosity improvers added to achieve this multigrade rating and a 0W-30 synthetic has very little if any viscosity improvers added. These are coiled long chain molecules which open out when hot to help maintain viscosity. These viscosity improvers degrade, unlike the synthetic base stock, so a 0W-40 will degrade in service, end up perhaps a 0W-30 and leave decomposition deposits in the process. The 0W-30 is more stable and leaves little if any deposit.

Do you need to keep to VW503.01 or VW504.00 specified by Audi?

If your car is out of warranty there is no need to keep to a specific approval but it is vitally important to make sure that any replacement meets or exceeds specified performance in terms of lubricity and high pressure bearing film strength and wear. You may wish to change to a fixed service interval so you don't need to worry about the long life part of the VW503.01 (later VW504.00 revised) specification. Synthetic Ester base stock is still desirable however.

Fortunately there are a number of competition Ester based oils that meet the performance requirements and contain extreme pressure additives. One such is Gulf Competition 0W30 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60121-gulf- ... -0w30.aspx

*The Procedure:*

The Bentley manual is a bit lacking on some detail so I had to find out a few things myself.

First, getting the car up on ramps. The standard ramps don't work too well with modern spoilers. A piece of wooden joist on each ramp, with a couple of bent nails to act as hooks onto one of the ramp rungs, give enough initial lift to ensure the spoiler easily clears the ramps (click to enlarge). Could do with painting I know  .


















Next job is to remove the cover from under the engine. There are quite a few Torx screws to remove.










But the Bentley manual doesn't tell you about these screws that join the cover to the wheel arch liner!










Then the cover will pull towards the rear, disengaging the locating tabs at the front of the cover and fall away.

The oil drain plug is at the back of the sump. Having the car on ramps helps drain the oil to the rear. The oil being warm helps it drain too but watch you don't scold yourself. Draining the oil out via the sump plug is better than sucking it out of the dipstick, like some garages do for speed, as it flushes out any solids and sludge. You also get a chance to find any bits of metal or other signs of damage. Leave it dribbling the last dregs into your drain can.










Next comes the difficult job of removing the oil filter cartridge. The filter is at the front of the engine and hangs down from its screw on mounting. Although I could get a hand up to it, there was no way I could unscrew it in the confined space. Oil filters usually become tight in service. I needed an oil filter wrench but not one that requires leverage room at the side of the filter. The type of wrench needed is a strap wrench with a long turning shaft to turn from well below. I improvised with an old cam belt, a long combination spanner and a T-bar from my socket set. The belt wrapped around the filter and the open end of the spanner twisted the belt tight. The T-bar turned the spanner through the ring end (click to see better). Worked a treat - but I'll get a proper one for next time.










A plastic bag pushed over the filter catches some of the oil that inevitably spills out but this is never completely successful, so some mopping up is required. Kitchen towel is good for this. EDIT: A recent suggestion which may be better is to cut off the bottom of a plastic lemonade bottle and slip it over the loosened filter to the top - then unscrew the filter by gripping it through the bottle. When the seal is broken the oil should be contained. The other sure way is to puncture the bottom of the filter and drain it.

The filter will squeeze out past the pipes below. Next, clean up the filter mounting being careful not to get any dirt into the innards - wipe the sealing rim outwards. Kitchen towel is useful here too.










The new filter needs its rubber sealing ring removing and lubricating with new oil. This helps seal and lubricates for assembly allowing the filter to be correctly hand screwed tight.










Squeeze the new filter up past the pipes but keep it face down at first to avoid any dirt falling inside. Better still - fill the cannister with new oil first, cover the open end with a small clean plastic bag to stop debris falling in and keep the open end upwards whilst raising the filter. Remove the bag just before screwing it on. This will minimise the time the engine first runs with no oil pressure on start up.










Carefully turn the filter round (not if full of oil!) and screw onto the mounting avoiding contamination. Hand tighten only. Rubber gloves help with grip but you don't need it too tight as it will tighten in service. Just get it as tight as you can with your hand - no strap wrench this time!










Your oil should have drained the last dregs by now so clean up and replace the sump plug using a new sealing washer. Tighten to *30Nm* - don't strip it!

Next fill the engine with *4.5 Litres *of oil (less the amount you may have already put in the new filter!) which should come to the full mark on the dipstick. Start the engine but don't rev the engine at all. You don't want the turbo to spin until the oil pressure is up.

If all is OK, before putting everything back in the reverse order, you can spend some time admiring the engineering and checking for any problems. I found a seeping coolant leak from the run-on pump. I took it apart and cleaned it to effect a cure. A busy garage might not have spotted that and would have charged me for a new one if they had.

Don't forget to reset the service indicator:

*RESET SERVICE INDICATOR:*

*Switch off ignition.
*Press right hand button on dash and hold while switching on ignition.
*The display should now read SERVICE!
*Immediately press and hold the left hand dash button until SERVICE! is cleared from the display (some cars you need to twist to the left instead).

*CHECK MILES TO NEXT SERVICE:*

*Check distance to next service with Left button (ignition on).
* The display will read SERVICE IN XXXX MILES. (Some cars you need to press the right hand button on dash and hold while switching on ignition. Don't press or twist the left hand button now or you might reset the mileage!)

*NOTE: You need to have the doors shut for the above otherwise the open door symbol will overwrite your service indication! The service indicator can't be reset until the countdown miles says SERVICE or SERVICE in XXXX miles. If you need to reset the service indication before the countdown expires, possibly on some cars you may need to use VAG-COM - or wait until the countdown reaches zero and says SERVICE.*


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## Suzaroo

Nice one.. very good write up!

Cheers


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## KenTT

Hi John

Nice little write up, thanks for sharing.

You didn't say if there was a copper washer to replace on the sump plug, do they have one?

Don't no if this is the filter wrench you refer to but I'll post pics incase it is.


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## TTCool

Hi John-H

I'm afraid you forgot something very important IMO: 

You should fill the oil filter/canister with Motul 8100 E-tech Ester SAE 0W-40 100% synthetic oil BEFORE you fit it back to the car. 8) Also always renew the sump plug crush washer. You are spot on with the Ester based oil. I use it. It's the best.

Joe


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## John-H

Cheers people  .

I've only just seen your posts for some reason!

KenTT,

That's exactly the sort of "strap wrench" needed - nice and slim and long - preferably extendable in length by socket set attachments.

You're right I should have mentioned the washer! I'll add it to the post.

Joe,

That's a very good point and possible to do on the TT as the open end of the filter is fitted upwards. I've been so used to cars with filters that fit on sideways where you can't do that trick without spilling all your oil out! I must admit I didn't fill the filter. One other reason for not doing it is the risk of getting debris in the open end as you squeeze the filter up the restricted space. You could put a clean plastic bag over the open end of the filter as you do it I suppose.

The one consolation is that synthetics (espescially Esters - like the Motul) stick to the surfaces so well they provide lubrication and protection for longer than the couple of seconds it takes the oil to fill the filter and get pumped round and build up the pressure. It is better practice to fill it when possible however.


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## HighTT

Excellent informative post John 

How much do you charge for a third AVS :?: :wink:


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## dk

John, where did you buy your Motul oil from ?


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## John-H

Hi Dave,

That's strange - your post is timed Fri Nov 04, 2005 8:09 pm and my watch says 7:25pm! Something's not been winter-timed yet :wink: .

The Motul E-tech 8100 0W-40 503.01 spec, fully synthetic, Ester based oil... 
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/Mob ... 0_3100.pdf

... can be bought mail order from Opie Oils:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

You can ring them on 01209 215 164 and order by credit card over the phone and speak to TT Forum's "Oilman" Simon - Email: [email protected] - he knows about oil.

Good company to deal with and prompt delivery.

The prices as of Sept 2005 were:
8100 E-tech 0W-40 5Litres = Â£31.99 (Â£6.40/L) Â£5.99 delivery
8100 E-tech 0W-40 10Litres = Â£56.99 (Â£5.70/L) Â£8.49 delivery

P.S. Hope the autolock works OK :wink:

HighTT,

You wag!


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## dk

cheers john,not ready for an oil change yet but I will start getting the stuff
so Im ready.Have you ever tackled the Haldex oil change? theres some mention of a special wrench any idea what it is.I think the oil is just in a caulking gun cartridge.Locks are spot on Ive sent you a PM.


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## John-H

Dave,

The Haldex oil change is the next on my list. You indeed change the oil by a caulking gun cartridge from your Audi dealer.
Haldex Oil (Â£11 #G052175A1) , Haldex Filter (Â£24 #02D525558A)

Looks as though you'd need some room under the car to do this.

According to the Bentley manual: ( http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=att5 ), you need to measure the oil temperature at service and run the engine to get it within spec before draining. VAG-COM may be useful for this. How necessary this is I don't know.

Here's a sneak preview of this section of the manual courtesy of Chip_iTT
http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/haldexoilchange.pdf

You also need a special tool for the filter:
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pag ... gine=225HP

Apparently you can get the tool in the UK from VAG-PARTS: http://www.vagparts.co.uk/

You might find these links useful:
http://www.amp82.co.uk/tt/haldex/
http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1178564.phtml
http://home.comcast.net/~jbipes/ttr/haldex.html

I've not seen your PM yet. Perhaps the system is still confused with time :roll: . OR - as sometimes catches me out - it you don't enter a subject/title line the message does not get sent!

I think this is the schedule for Haldex oil change
20k oil 
40k oil and filter 
60k oil 
80k oil and filter 
etc 
etc


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## dk

Thanks yet again John,not looked at the location of the filter yet may possibly be able to remove it with a large pair of water pump pliers after looking at the diagram.
bit strange filling through the drain hole,would have thought it was better to fill through the checking hole using some sort of flexible pipe on the cartridge.


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## Loz180

I just filled mine through the checking hole. maybe thats where I messed up?


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## John-H

Loz180 said:


> I just filled mine through the checking hole. maybe thats where I messed up?


You're supposed to put in the whole canister I believe - do you mean filling through the inspection level hole gives you a false level, which you don't get if you fill through the bottom?


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## Loz180

Well if you mean I couldn't get the whole lot in, then yes. :?


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## John-H

Sorry, I keep reading..


Loz180 said:


> ... I couldn't get the whole lot in...


.. and looking at your signiture strip [smiley=rolleyes5.gif] :lol:

What happened?


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## Loz180

Well John,

I pressed the nozzle hard up against the hole and began to squeeze the trigger. at first it went in nice an easily and I thought, "boy oh boy! this will be like shelling peas!" then it started to dribble out of the side orrifice and drip quite a bit. Naturally I was concerned so I stopped forcing it in. I checked the level with my finger. seemed to have room for some more so I raised the gun again to the now well lubricated (with haldex oil) hole and started pumping again.. it soon ran all over my hands and I had to admit defeat. I had a 1/4 left in the tube but I couldn't get it in. It was full to the brim and dripping so I closed it up, got up off my back and went to wash my hands.

What you you have done?


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## John-H

Mine is not due quite yet but will be soon. Dk, asked if filling through the inspection hole would be easier, as you don't need the ground clearance with a caulking gun but from your experience perhaps there's some sort of blockage if you do it that way. Perhaps rigging up a flexible extension might be a good idea so it can be done through the bottom fill hole but not require the clearance if you've only got wheel ramps and no pit etc.

Did you manage to drain out the old oil ok? - the Bentley manual says that the oil should be at a specific warm temperature before draining, which I think you can measure with VAG-COM. I suppose there's possibility if it didn't drain properly that some of the old stuff was still in there taking space.


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## Loz180

I confess I did not check the old oil temp. it was pretty runny though.

You don't need a 90 degree bend with wheel ramps. I could have fired the muck upright into the little hole. I just never thought to as it would drip right back down without some deft "finger in the ****" style goings on... 
:?


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## gt russell

hi everyone ther is an even better oil filter wrench . iv just baught one its like a flat cup it fits onto the bottom of the oil filter and has a 3/8 drive in the centre. all you need is a long extension bar and a ratchet or t bar . ill get it out of the garage tomrrow and give the make an model no . oh and it only cost Â£2:99


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## YELLOW_TT

gt russell said:


> hi everyone ther is an even better oil filter wrench . iv just baught one its like a flat cup it fits onto the bottom of the oil filter and has a 3/8 drive in the centre. all you need is a long extension bar and a ratchet or t bar . ill get it out of the garage tomrrow and give the make an model no . oh and it only cost Â£2:99


Got any pics :?:


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## gt russell

no pics but got part no . its a cup type oil filter wrench part no 3117 made by laser . 76mm 3/8" drive 14 flutes


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## John-H

Thanks for the info Russel. Is this the part then?

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1694

I've found an on line stockist but it sells for Â£4.25. 
http://www.auto-tools.co.uk/s.php?p=2157

Did you get it from an independent Motor Factor as they often stock Laser products?

The same on line stockist also sells a suitable strap oil filter wrench @ Â£4.65:
http://www.auto-tools.co.uk/s.php?p=1104
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=96


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## Loz180

think I might take the cambelt off my old engine and use it for the next oil change... at least I'll be getting some value out of the sorry lump! :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Loz180

ooooh! that lookslike a good tool to have though..


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## John-H

Loz180 said:


> think I might take the cambelt off my old engine and use it for the next oil change... at least I'll be getting some value out of the sorry lump! :lol: :lol: :lol:


 :lol: Very useful things old cam belts.

Oh - just realised Russel was on about the engine oil filter and I thought he was talking about the Haldex. Duh!


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## gt russell

hi john , yep thats the part and yes its for the oil filter he he


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## Guest

John-H said:


> The E-tech oil is supposed to be the best for the 225 engine by all accounts as it's a fully synthetic Ester based oil.


which is the best oil for us 180 owners :?:


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## John-H

You could use the same but you don't need a fully synthetic for a 180 unless it's on variable service.


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## John-H

I got one of these in the end. It's between Â£2.20 to Â£4.42 depending where you get it and seems of reasonably good quality. I bought it from a local stockist for Â£2.20 but you can get it online:

Draper 1/2" drive oil filter strap wrench 256 PN: 13771










http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productInfo. ... tref=13771

http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/store/ ... 13771.aspx


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## ccraig13

Just changed my oil this weekend. This is actually the first oil change I've ever done on my own... why did I have to start with a TT 

Parts:
- Oil ( 5w-40, VW 505.0 spec ) & Filter ( Audi Filter ) where bought from local VW dealer
- Oil filter wrench bought from autozone
- Vise-grips

I read in the oil thread that the current spec from Audi was 5w-30, VW 504.0 but the parts guy told me to use the 5w-40 I mentioned above. Please let me know if the parts guy is wrong and I should get 5w-30, VW 504.0 next time.

Anyway I saw all the talk about different tools and thought I would post what I used to get the filter off.

Basically, it's a oil filter wrench with a socket wrench adapter inserted.



Then I had to use vise-grips to clamp onto the round socket adapter at an angle so that it didn't hit it's surroundings

View attachment 1


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## John-H

Thanks for posting the pictures. Could you not get an extension bar into the socket adapter?

504.00 is for petrol engines and supercedes 503.00 and 503.01 and is backward compatable
505.00 spec oil is for diesel engines


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## ccraig13

Unfortunately, I couldn't get an extension bar in there, those pipes were stopping me at every angle! Also, I just got off the phone with my local Audi dealer and they told me that the Castrol Syntec 5w-40 I'm using is the right stuff ( Although, he said, the TT is the only 1.8 car VW doesn't say needs it ( of course, why make things easier for me :roll: ), but will still take it ). Based solely on our phone conversation, I thought he was pretty knowledgeable about oil so I guess I'll stick with 5w-40. Is it possible that this threads info applies differently to me since I have a US model?

Thanks again John!


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## John-H

Castrol oils have had very confusing names and yes, indeed, they have changed formulations with different country markets whilst retaining the same name as well as changed name with the same formula - so there could be something in the fact it's a US product! Oil specs, as regards viscosity, can vary between hot and cold climates too.

Having said that, you should simply check the VW spec printed on the bottle, as that's a universal specific performance specification i.e. the number doesn't vary from country to country, whereas the brand name can be misleading and may perhaps change viscosity for example.

The US seem to have a "consumer preference" for a 5,000 mile service and that's another thing to bear in mind. Some garages have been known to put in a lesser spec oil as they don't think it needs to meet the long life service interval. There have even been cases of semi synthetic and organic oil being used and sludge forming which has blocked the oil strainer and caused engine failure.

Check your handbook for the recommended oil spec and service interval as a first point of call. This may help:

http://www.roelz.be/VAG/vw_oilspecs.html

I found this US product spec for Castrol Syntec 5W-40 which confirms it only meets 502.00 so can NOT be used on a long life service - nor in a TT as far as I'm aware! :

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_in ... ec_usa.pdf


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## ccraig13

Ok just got off the phone with Audi Customer Care. They told me that the Castrol Syntec 5w-40 was the right oil to use ( That's what's listed in my US owner's manual ).

They told me that I should read the oil TSB provided on Audi USA's website http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0023.File.pdf. This also says that the 5w-40 is the right stuff.

However, John you mentioned that an oil that meets the 502 spec ( which is the 5w-40 I'm using ) doesn't meet long life requirements. So based on that, does that mean I can use it but have to change it more often? My garage used Castrol GTX 10w-30, AAHH! However, they expected me to change it after 3,000 miles. The owner's manual says to change it every 10K and that's based on 5w-40 502 00 spec.

John, like you said we American's tend to change our oil at 5,000 which, being an American, I thought was normal too  . Now I'm curious, how long do you wait to change your oil? Thanks for all the help and to think Audi CC told me not to listen to people in forums, like that's gonna stop me!


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## John-H

My 1999 225 TT (APX engine) is set to fixed oil changes at 10k miles or 1 year. My handbook says High Lubricity multigrade oil conforming to VW spec 503.01 "must always be used".

Later BAM engined 225 TTs were on variable service which, depending on what the on-board computer decided, could last up to 20k miles or 2 years. They also were specified for 503.01.

It was only the lesser 180 TT that was allowed to use 503.00 and only when it was on a fixed 10k mile service. 180 TTs, set up for variable service, were to use 503.01 like the 225 TT.

504.00 superceded both 503.01 and 503.00.

502.00 was not ever mentioned for the UK TT market.

I've checked my Bentley US based workshop manual, which says 502.00 at 10k miles, so agrees with what you are being told.

The difference is due to the "long life" requirement. 503.00 is the long life version of 502.00 and 503.01 is the higher spec oil for the TT with higher shear capability over that of 503.00.

If you are not on a "long life" service interval, then you do not need long life oil - however - there is still a discrepancy. My APX 225 TT is on a fixed service and requires 503.01. Interesting that you can get away with 502.00. Is yours a 180 TT or a 225 TT? I'll turn to a higher authority and ask the oilman to comment :wink:


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## ccraig13

Well that makes more sense now. Yes, I have a 225 and I was at the dealer yesterday ( explained below ) and the service department told me I needed to change it every 5K so you're right they don't expect it to be used as a long life oil. I'm a noob when it comes to this engine stuff, but I had another thought/ uneducated guess about the oil. Does it make a difference that our standard for 'high ocatain' pertrol is only 93 compared to your much higher grades?

Quick story: I actually went to the Dealer yesterday to have a free diagnostic check of my timing belt which they said should be changed because they don't see in the vehicle history that it was ever done ( My TT has 129K on it too ) and they wanted $1,880 to change it [smiley=bigcry.gif] ! However, I called my dealer/garage and they told me it had been done at 99K :lol:. The funny thing is, that it was actually changed at a real Audi dealer too, so there's no excuse why they didn't upload that info to Audi back when it was done.


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## koopa

too lazy to search, anyone tell me what gear box oil I should look out for, planning in getting this changed out shortly, also if changing the engine oil, what quantity is required? sounds like 5l is about right??

thanks.


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## poor1

Four things applicable to MK1
1.Two pieces of 2 inch timber to drive the car onto will give ample height to do this from underneath, you will then not damage the overhanging bodywork.. Chamfer the leading edge. If you do a lot of work on cars buy yourself some hydraulic ramps - you will wonder why you have waited so long. (They are expensive but PM me for a good source)
2.Use a cup tool for removing the filter from underneath with a half inch ratchet.. Laser do a set and note that OEM & after market filters very in size.
3. Change oil very 5000 miles or once a year and use fully synthetic. (I use Millers). At these mileages only change the filter every other oil change and use the dip stick extraction method in between. It saves an awful lot of time.
4.Don't over tighten the drain plug or filter. The filter should be turned until it becomes firm and then one half turn by hand or it's equivalent with tools. The drain plug washer should be changed each time, but note that the washer for the MK1 comes on a drain plug as a captive washer. (sorry i've lost the part number) and cost £2.00 each.

As regards the Haldex oil change do a search - I have done a comprehensive post on the subject recently and it's not at all difficult if you have the correct spanner - impossible if not.


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## Skeee

Excellent thread.


I use one of these on the end of a 12" extn which easily reaches the oil filter.
I 'shortened' the strap on mine for a perfect fit.

Also re buying a new sump plug I just snip off the old washer and fit a spare ally washer on one of my spare plugs, 
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Audi_ ... 05a&000566

These fit well and work out about 60p each. 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/M14x20-Aluminiu ... 993&sr=8-2
or even cheaper
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminium-Washe ... 993&sr=8-1


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## Tare071

John-H said:


> My 1999 225 TT (APX engine) is set to fixed oil changes at 10k miles or 1 year. My handbook says High Lubricity multigrade oil conforming to VW spec 503.01 "must always be used".
> 
> Later BAM engined 225 TTs were on variable service which, depending on what the on-board computer decided, could last up to 20k miles or 2 years. They also were specified for 503.01.
> 
> It was only the lesser 180 TT that was allowed to use 503.00 and only when it was on a fixed 10k mile service. 180 TTs, set up for variable service, were to use 503.01 like the 225 TT.
> 
> 504.00 superceded both 503.01 and 503.00.
> 
> 502.00 was not ever mentioned for the UK TT market.
> 
> I've checked my Bentley US based workshop manual, which says 502.00 at 10k miles, so agrees with what you are being told.
> 
> The difference is due to the "long life" requirement. 503.00 is the long life version of 502.00 and 503.01 is the higher spec oil for the TT with higher shear capability over that of 503.00.
> 
> If you are not on a "long life" service interval, then you do not need long life oil - however - there is still a discrepancy. My APX 225 TT is on a fixed service and requires 503.01. Interesting that you can get away with 502.00. Is yours a 180 TT or a 225 TT? I'll turn to a higher authority and ask the oilman to comment :wink:


Personally i wouldn't bother too much with oil specs and here is why....a ten year old engine does not work nor it needs too strict rules of lubricant specification like it used to. For my personal taste every 0w30, 0w20, 5w20 or 5w30 oil is too thin to be used in any 1,8T engine which isn't new - makes no difference 180 or 225BHP. For my money and YES i tried few diff oil specs, 0w40 is sweet spot for 1.8T engine, 5w40 and 5w50 also work pretty good but harms your MPGs a bit. Also no matter what oil or what audi says, oil needs to be changed at least once a year or 10.000 kilometers which ever comes first. Going cheapo on an oil filter and changing it every second time is nuts imho, first why saving on such inexpensive thing as a filter and secondly "suck trough dipstick" procedure leaves you with half a kilo of dirty gunk in that very same filter you're not changing.
Haldex lub....i change it every 20.000 kilometers, gearbox oil (castrol syntrax/TAF X 75w90) once in 5 years - same oil goes for rear diff and for convenience i also change it once in 5 years.
When it comes to engine oil, my whole experience was double checked with a friend of mine who works as an oil specialist at ABT racing team - Germany....his exact words were "put a decent oil and change it once a year" and his preference was castrol 0w40 for regular every day use and 10w60 for heavy duty/racing or heavy duty modded car.
What is interesting that 10w60 oil doesn't support any of VAG oil specification....on the bottle it just says "exceeds all manufacturers specifications"


----------



## gunner

Personally I would stick with the current TT oil recommendation which originally was VW503.01 and is superseded by VW504/507. There's a very good oil spec comparison site Here. Looking at the performance of VW504 over VW503.01 and VW502.00, its quite apparent that VW504 easily exceeds the performance of the other oils so this is my choice.

I really cant see the sense in using an oil which doesn't meet the Audi recommendation. These recommendations exist for several reasons including preventing sludge, wear and improving fuel economy. Although you could use non spec oil, how would you know the long term effects?

I have owned my TT from new, its covered over 120k and has always been serviced using the correct oil. Since the 1.8T engine is notorious for sludge formation (mainly caused by using the wrong spec oil) many owners drop the sump and inspect the oil strainer. I checked my strainer a few months ago and it was as clean as a whistle as was the sump.

Older engines need as much protection as when new, they get driven as hard and may well have been remapped, so I don't understand your comments in this area.

As for using 10W60 grade oil, this is effectively a race grade oil used for extreme race conditions, it would usually be changed after every race. Using this type of oil on a road car may work but the increased viscosity will lead to poor fuel economy. The reason for using 5w30 oil is too reduce friction in the engine and increase economy .


----------



## John-H

It used to be true that older designed engines running larger working clearances used a higher viscosity oil (e.g. 20W50) and as they aged the clearances, rings and bores would wear amd there was some argument for increasing the oil viscosity as the engine aged onto its last legs.

The TT engine does not wear significantly due to being run on synthetic oil which does not break down like the older mineral oils and form sludge, is more shear stable and has many times the film strength for higher bearing loads. Take a used TT engine apart and you will still see the cross hatch honing mark's on the bores unlike engines of old which would be polished mirror smooth and worn oval and distorted. TT engines are run in using mineral oil in the factory and then filled with the correct synthetic before being released to the customer - this does away with the need for the customer to "run in" the engine. Its also why you should never try running in an engine on synthetic - the oil is too good and won't allow the rings and bores to bed in.

So, if you have been running on the correct synthetic oil, you won't have sludge and you won't have wear so there is no reason to increase viscosity - in fact this could be a bad move. The higher viscosity oil will not flow around the engine as quick, will drop oil pressure quicker en-route around the galleries and could result in oil starvation at the extremities under load. A thinner oil will be replaced quicker and if it has the high film strength properties it's supposed to that's arguably much better.

Ester based synthetic oils are used in aircraft engines and are arguably the best synthetics as they electrostatically cling to metal surfaces, so cold start up and starvation situations are better protected. There is no 503.01 or 504.00 spec Ester based oil available any more since Motul downgraded its X-lite 8100 to 502.00 but they say it would still meet 503.01 if they paid to re-test and classify it but it's an older spec so they won't and they can't get it to pass 504.00 because of the low ash requirements which is the maun difference between 503.01 amd 504.00.

Arguably you could use another fully synthetic Ester based oil that exceeds the requirements of 503.01 for film strength and bearing load, e.g. with EP (extreme pressure) addatives such as a competition based oil (e.g. Gulf competition 0W30) and providing you don't need the long life requirements and change at 10k miles then that would be a better protected engine.


----------



## poor1

Skee

Thanks for the tip regarding your modified strap wrench - do try the cup washers you will wonder what you have been missing 

Thanks also for the information regarding the 14 mm aluminium washers on Amazon. Very useful.

As regards new washers for the rear axle (differential) and the washers for the gearbox drain plug. I don't remember which way round it was, but Audi told me that there is no washer listed on either but there is a drain plug (presumably like the sump plug with a captive washer, but not the same part) which costs £8.00????. The sump plug was only £2.00 from Audi.

Any idea what size washers (if any) on these drain plugs please.

PM me re hydraulic ramps if interested.


----------



## poor1

Further to the above and gearbox drain washer. The Audi workshop manual simply states ' fit new screw plug'.


----------



## Tare071

gunner said:


> Personally I would stick with the current TT oil recommendation which originally was VW503.01 and is superseded by VW504/507. There's a very good oil spec comparison site Here. Looking at the performance of VW504 over VW503.01 and VW502.00, its quite apparent that VW504 easily exceeds the performance of the other oils so this is my choice.
> 
> I really cant see the sense in using an oil which doesn't meet the Audi recommendation. These recommendations exist for several reasons including preventing sludge, wear and improving fuel economy. Although you could use non spec oil, how would you know the long term effects?
> 
> I have owned my TT from new, its covered over 120k and has always been serviced using the correct oil. Since the 1.8T engine is notorious for sludge formation (mainly caused by using the wrong spec oil) many owners drop the sump and inspect the oil strainer. I checked my strainer a few months ago and it was as clean as a whistle as was the sump.
> 
> Older engines need as much protection as when new, they get driven as hard and may well have been remapped, so I don't understand your comments in this area.
> 
> As for using 10W60 grade oil, this is effectively a race grade oil used for extreme race conditions, it would usually be changed after every race. Using this type of oil on a road car may work but the increased viscosity will lead to poor fuel economy. The reason for using 5w30 oil is too reduce friction in the engine and increase economy .


ok first of all i'm not here to pick up any harsh argument...i am stating my experience with probably 10 cars which were all racing or highly tuned. Thing that sounds good in theory can be good in practice or not. Engine is engine, and engine that has 10 or 50 or 200 thousand kilometers wont act the same. First of all, correct oil for my 225BHP TT is 504/507 oil, and only three oils that meet that specs are 0w20, 0w30 and 5w30.....there is simply NO OIL that meets those requirements in different grade, and guess what, those oils are too thin for anything other than casual weekend drive. Secondly, 10w60 oil isn't race grade, it is oil that has strongest film and will - when warmed up - protect the engine in best way, but it isn't only to be raced and replaced afterwards. Pretty much every M3/M5 owner uses that oil in castrol edge/TWS form.........course racing oils are ment to be changed after a race, but isn't coz they are 10w60 but due to the technical aspect of a race/engine/circuit/durations/climats etc etc. Most circuit racers use 15w50, 20w50 oils....but let's not go there coz it's not the subject.
I currently use 5w30 oil from Liqvi Moli and it isn't bad but hardly for rougher usage...oil it self has good detergents and it washes engine IMHO better than Castrol same gradation.But don't forget that oil is there to cool off your engine too, and 0w30 or 5w30 gradation simply can't do that task adequately (hardly does). When it comes to sludge issue, castrol 5w50 is currently top notch for 1.8T and it is built specifically to address sludge issue, and guess what - it doesn't meet any VAG specification, it exceeds them. Most motul oils also don't have VAG spec approved....apart from mentioned gradations.
Like i said, i respect forum and i respect dudes that spend a lot of time googling facts......but my experience comes from driving all sorts of conditions and roads from races to hill climbs. If you wanna cruise on weekends then by all means go for the 504/507 spec, if you drive with led foot or race - at least 0w40 or 5w40.......10w60 is PERFECT.
Higher gradation sooner oil change, if 10w60 that would be around 5.000-7.000 kilometers (lower interval if car is driven in city, higher if it runs on longer drives)


----------



## gunner

Hi Tare071,

I respect your opinion on choice of oil for the Audi TT and based on the comments on this post here appear to be two schools of thought on which oil is best for the TT as follows:-

- from my own perspective and probably 99% of TT owners who use their cars driving to work, going on holiday plus maybe the occasional all our run on the Nuremberg Ring or flat out on the German Autobahn, the Audi recommendation should hold up well enough
- for performance enthusiasts who drive their cars to the limit doing hill climbs, 1/4 mile sprints, extreme high performance racing etc, then it may be reasonable to consider a different type of oil.

As mentioned previously, I have covered over 120k in my TT with 10k oil changes using the Audi spec oil. I have recently checked the oil pressure and it is well within the Audi specified tolerances and the sump/strainer are clean. Consequently I can see no advantage in using a different spec oil.

Additionally, I haven't used my TT as a weekend car to potter around to the local Tesco's. In fact it was remapped by Morgan at Vagcheck for a while which proved to be a great mod for over 20k until I became a father an needed to revert back to standard for my multicar insurance policy. In my 11 years of ownership I have twice driven high speed through France to Spain over the Pyrenees and endured temperatures over 45c. I have also spent many hours steady on cruise control at +130mph on German Autobahns as well as cold starts at -20 in Berlin.

So in summary, I cant see any issue with the Audi recommended oil and would have to question what knowledge you have over and above the accumulated wisdom of Audi/VW.


----------



## Tare071

gunner said:


> Hi Tare071,
> 
> I respect your opinion on choice of oil for the Audi TT and based on the comments on this post here appear to be two schools of thought on which oil is best for the TT as follows:-
> 
> - from my own perspective and probably 99% of TT owners who use their cars driving to work, going on holiday plus maybe the occasional all our run on the Nuremberg Ring or flat out on the German Autobahn, the Audi recommendation should hold up well enough
> - for performance enthusiasts who drive their cars to the limit doing hill climbs, 1/4 mile sprints, extreme high performance racing etc, then it may be reasonable to consider a different type of oil.
> 
> As mentioned previously, I have covered over 120k in my TT with 10k oil changes using the Audi spec oil. I have recently checked the oil pressure and it is well within the Audi specified tolerances and the sump/strainer are clean. Consequently I can see no advantage in using a different spec oil.
> 
> Additionally, I haven't used my TT as a weekend car to potter around to the local Tesco's. In fact it was remapped by Morgan at Vagcheck for a while which proved to be a great mod for over 20k until I became a father an needed to revert back to standard for my multicar insurance policy. In my 11 years of ownership I have twice driven high speed through France to Spain over the Pyrenees and endured temperatures over 45c. I have also spent many hours steady on cruise control at +130mph on German Autobahns as well as cold starts at -20 in Berlin.
> 
> So in summary, I cant see any issue with the Audi recommended oil and would have to question what knowledge you have over and above the accumulated wisdom of Audi/VW.


What ever works for you mate.....and my post wasn't as much about dissing VAG oil specs than just saying you don't need to follow everything they said to the letter. I see ppl here busting their brains about this spec and that spec when in reality it's better to have cheaper oil and change it regularly than best yet unchanged oil for 10-15k milles. That is all..... 
Also don't think that audi "wisdom" is error free....are we talking about those guys who made first TT flip at certain speeds, main wise engineer died during testing, also guys who changed distribution belts periods from 5 years and 100.000km to 3 years or 60.000km...........there is no wisdom there mate, just experience and trying to adopt to certain real life situation. Audi recommends certain oil coz it gives you certain MPG, also gives you better combustion, less strain on cats and better CO2 emission........
No true wisdom there mate


----------



## Kprincess

I go for 6-8k forget the rest as the cleaner the oil the healthier the engine


----------



## TJS

I am surprised no one has mentioned replacing the sump plug with a magnetised version. Wipe it clean each time you change the oil, you will be surprised the amount of fine metal particles it picks up.

You can also get a strip of magnets which attach to the outside of the oil filter which will also trap fine particles on the inside of the filter canister. May not work on the TT if space is tight.

TJS


----------



## Skeee

I looked into the magnetised sump plug and decided against.
If the magnet is very strong and oil changed very often then it should be ok, but I read something about the larger magnetised clumps coming off the plug and being pulled around the engine. :?


----------



## John-H

Yes, magnets and heat don't go together. The magnet gets weaker with heat and time so there is the possibility of a clump having built up eventually dropping off. A lot of those particles, by the way, are from the rough crank case - you get a lot of iron particles trapped in the magnetic impeller of the coolant run on pump too. They won't get through the oil filter thankfully.


----------



## TJS

Like most things in life you need to buy the right piece of kit for the job rather than the cheapest ...

http://www.magneticoildrainplugs.co.uk/ ... Okz3RzwsRg

http://shop.motorsport-developments.co. ... -687-p.asp

This plug has certainly picked up enough metal particles washing around the engine not picked up by the Audi oem oil filter to make it extremely good value for money. But then I did fit it on the TT from new in 2002, 26k miles later its still doing its job. If you buy and a keep cars for 2-3 years I can see why you probably wouldn't bother, let someone else pick up the wear and problems later on. I also fitted , and subsequently upgraded, a similar magnetic plug on an MGB GT I have owned for the past 32 years where the oil filters are cardboard and paper canister type inserts, hence maximum 3,000 mile oil changes, 22k miles later the engine is still as sweet as a nut.

Whilst of no consequence now for Mk 1 TTs I also fit a new plug day of collection when buying a new car and change the oil and filter after a 2,000 miles, rather than wait for the manufacturer service schedule which can be up to 15,000 miles later for a MINI or Mercedes. The ferrous metallic crap on the magnetic plug after the first 2,000 miles is scarily impressive !


----------



## vwjim

John-H said:


> *RESET SERVICE INDICATOR:*
> 
> *Switch off ignition.
> *Press right hand button on dash and hold while switching on ignition.
> *The display should now read SERVICE!
> *Immediately press and hold the left hand dash button until SERVICE! is cleared from the display (some cars you need to twist to the left instead).


Evening,

Can you confirm the above sequence is for re-setting the long-life service interval? I once had my TT serviced at a generic independent garage and the service message came up exactly on 10k miles and not the usual 18k miles it has done for every other service period when it was serviced at Audi main dealer or Audi independent garage.

Thanks.


----------



## Skeee

That reset procedure is to reset to the Fixed Service interval of 10k miles (I think it's 10,000- it's in the handbook)
To reset to Long Life you need the Dealer/Ross Tech Vag and all the oil stats etc.

Also note that when you reset to the fixed interval it doesn't count down per mile to begin with. It sits at something like 9300 and stays like that until the miles catch up.

Note that many people (myself included) don't think it wise to leave oil changes as long as 18000 miles.
Once a year, or 6000 (up to 10000 miles, depending on your driving style ie short journeys) or whichever comes first is my own personal recommendation.

Basically my understanding is the cleaner the oil, the cleaner the engine and the longer it will last.


----------



## Hoggy

vwjim said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> 
> *RESET SERVICE INDICATOR:*
> *Switch off ignition.
> *Press right hand button on dash and hold while switching on ignition.
> *The display should now read SERVICE!
> *Immediately press and hold the left hand dash button until SERVICE! is cleared from the display (some cars you need to twist to the left instead).
> 
> 
> 
> Evening,
> Can you confirm the above sequence is for re-setting the long-life service interval? I once had my TT serviced at a generic independent garage and the service message came up exactly on 10k miles and not the usual 18k miles it has done for every other service period when it was serviced at Audi main dealer or Audi independent garage.
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hi, Yes that procedure is correct for fixed service regime. Will read 9300 initially whether on fixed regime using manual reset or AVS (variable) using VagCom.
Hoggy.


----------



## poor1

Observations:
1. The cup wrenches are best for filters. (Laser and others make them)
2. The drain plug and captive washer come as a part from Audi for £2.00. (they can be bought on ebay for half the price)
3. Two 8x24x2 inch boards with a chamferred edge will get the car sufficiently high to do the job.
3. Change the oil every 5000 miles or once a year with fully synthetic. (Sealey and Mityvac do a good one)
4. Get your self a dip stick extractor is you do a high mileage and only do a full drain in- between.
5. Drain whilst the oil is hot and any particulates in suspension.

AS regards Haldex change please see my post elsewhere. Simple so long as you have the right tool, but make sure you have a new sealing washer to hand. Audi call them a 'sealing plate' in their parts list. (after first denying there is one)


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## Mondo

Minor problem with sump plugs, magnetic or not, is you do run the risk of stripping the thread. I know it can be helicoil'd (as mine has been, apparently) but now I don't have to remove the sump plug at all when changing oil:

http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/f106_adp106.htm?veh=Audi TT 1.8 T (1781 petrol) 2003-2006

Works for me.


----------



## poor1

Mondo said:


> Minor problem with sump plugs, magnetic or not, is you do run the risk of stripping the thread. I know it can be helicoil'd (as mine has been, apparently) but now I don't have to remove the sump plug at all when changing oil:
> 
> http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/f106_adp106.htm?veh=Audi TT 1.8 T (1781 petrol) 2003-2006
> 
> Works for me.


Agree they are beautifully engineered device. Worth getting the lock spring for piece of mind with the TT being so low.


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## Mondo

I wouldn't (and didn't) bother; it's all covered by the undertray anyway.


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## Iamthehulk86

Can someone just answer this very simply and not sarcastic or give me several answers...

What oil shall I use for my oil change on my 225? The best oil

Thanks


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## Hoggy

Hi, Correct Audi oil spec is 504/507 fully synthetic 5w-30.... Common oils are Castrol Edge FST 5w-30 & Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30.
Same oil whether Fixed or AVS service regime.
Hoggy.


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## Iamthehulk86

Thank you hoggy, I can see that on the net but I'd rather buy from a shop. What about castrol magnatec 5w 30? Would that be ok


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## Hoggy

Iamthehulk86 said:


> Thank you hoggy, I can see that on the net but I'd rather buy from a shop. What about castrol magnatec 5w 30? Would that be ok


Hi, Magnatec is the wrong spec. 1.8T engine is well known for sludging so use the correct spec. 
Castrol Edge & Mobil 1 are avail at all Halfords branches, so no reason why you can't buy it from a shop.
Hoggy.


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## Iamthehulk86

Halfrauds it is! Might use opie oils then. Many thanks hoggy


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## Hoggy

Iamthehulk86 said:


> Halfrauds it is! Might use opie oils then. Many thanks hoggy


Hi, If you are going to use the internet, then use.. http://www.eurocarparts.com/
cheaper still with TTF discount & free delivery.
Hoggy.


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## mullum

Any opinions on TRIPLE QX ?

TRIPLE QX Engine Oil 5w30 Fully Synthetic (For VAG)

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/ ... &0&cc5_247

Free oil filter (is Bosch better than Aftermarke ?) and 25% off (websaver25)
So £30 for the two


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## Hoggy

Hi Mullum, Yes that's the correct 504/507 spec.. 5w-30 fully syn.
Hoggy.


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## Stevie Jinx

Many thanks, this whole write up is excellent and has been a great help. 

Stevie.


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## 3TT3

Having just changed my oil and filter,using the initial write up.

1.The mahle brand filter that was on it has a different look internally. Round holes to the filter etc etc

A Mann filter is the same internal design as John-H pictured.

2. When removing the filter I loosened first using a 1/2 in drive filter strap wrench.
The strap was too loose and didnt have the adjustment to get tighter.

Most big spools of tape, sellotape,duct tape, masking tape have the same internal diameter as the TT oil filter.
Use one of those as a "grip ring" adapter and youre good to go if your strap wrench is too large.

Another "old time religion" trick is to use a leather belt ,The hold yer trousers up type.. to get initial loosening

Once I had it initially loose I jammed a full size supermarket shopping bag up around it to catch drips, then twisted the filter from outside the bag. Filter came off with no drips but oil will still drip down after filter is removed.
Itll track down your cylinder block and collect just above the sump join line.

The Mann filter.. instructions are on the side :hand tighten till the rubber ring just grips then tighten 3/4 of a turn(mark the base of the filter).. similar to the technique of fitting new spark plugs.

3, Filter filling with oil.
I did mine to about 1/2 in from the top as I didnt want oil pouring down as I inserted it up and began to tighten..there is plenty of room to insert vertically (oooeerrr missus) but the filter is at a slight angle when tightening.

As it was when I started the engine there was perhaps .5 sec of a rattle ..I just started the engine and it went on hi idle.
Perhaps next time Ill go for 1/4 in from the top of the filter .

4.Capacity: using a 5l container, I put in 4.3 L approx,going by the markings on the bottle,including oil filter fill.
After running for a few mins,I got the car level and turned the engine off and checked the level.
It was at the bottom of the bend on the dipstick,barely touching the cross hatched mark.

In the end Ive added 4.8 L approx to get the level up to the top of the cross hatch mark.
The dipstick tube and dipstick have recently been replaced with non oem parts..
Perhaps the oil is slightly overfull.. or not.. either way theres only about 200 ml left in a 5l specced container so Im glad I got an extra L or 2 recently.

I still have a basin full of oil  and I poured all the old filter oil into that+ what was in the bag.
Ill measure that and compare it to whats gone in.


----------



## John-H

It should be 4.5 litres to fill and it's a good idea to fill the filter with some of the 4.5 litres of oil before screwing it up - that way it doesn't run dry as long on starting. It does mean you have to offer the filter upside down but you can slip a small plastic bag over the open end until almost in position to keep dirt out.


----------



## Skeee

3TT3 said:


> ...........................*2. When removing the filter I loosened first using a 1/2 in drive filter strap wrench.
> The strap was too loose and didnt have the adjustment to get tighter.*
> 
> Most big spools of tape, sellotape,duct tape, masking tape have the same internal diameter as the TT oil filter.
> Use one of those as a "grip ring" adapter and youre good to go if your strap wrench is too large.
> 
> Another "old time religion" trick is to use a leather belt ,The hold yer trousers up type.. to get initial loosening
> .................


If you shorten the strap it will fit perfectly, also the extra material stiffens the strap, so is easier to slide into place.


----------



## poor1

Don't waste your time with strap wrenches on the TT. Use an appropriate box socket which fits the filter precisely with a 3/8 drive and extension.


----------



## paulw12

Do you mean the laser tool 76mm x 14 sided one linked to earlier like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310452244919? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Does anybody know if this is the same as the golf mk4 diesel filter one? I need to check as I still have that one...


----------



## poor1

Same type. not sure whether this is the correct size for either the Golf or the TT though. My Golf, a TDI, uses a different type of filter altogether, accessible from the top. I have a set of sockets so it doesn't present a problem and they fit everything I work on.


----------



## paulw12

Yeah vw seem to have got their oil filters in a good place with the golfs, from the top with easy peezy access, with a 32mm socket, then Audi have it upside down oil runs down your sleeve old school :lol: :lol:


----------



## bobclive22

Is it really worth changing oil yourself, £40 for oil and filter change at National tyres, FUCHS Titan GTI Pro-C3 5w30 XTL (Inc. New Filter)

They do an MOT for £27.99, they will try to find work so only take car if you are sure it will pass, They MOT`d my Boxster last week and were very careful, even put thick rags on jacking points.


----------



## poor1

Good point. It's hardly worth the trouble of getting you hands dirty, particularly if they use the right correct oil and take care when jacking.


----------



## John-H

Lazy lot :lol:

When you've done it yourself and taken care to do it properly and check things whilst you are there and remembered to replace all the screws and not strip any, you can think of all sorts of things a busy garage won't bother with or take sort cuts on :wink:


----------



## 3TT3

3TT3 said:


> 2. When removing the filter I loosened first using a 1/2 in drive filter strap wrench.
> The strap was too loose and didnt have the adjustment to get tighter.
> 
> Most big spools of tape, sellotape,duct tape, masking tape have the same internal diameter as the TT oil filter.
> Use one of those as a "grip ring" adapter and youre good to go if your strap wrench is too large.
> 
> Another "old time religion" trick is to use a leather belt ,The hold yer trousers up type.. to get initial loosening


By a strap wrench, I meant a fixed varaition one I bought awhile back.Its metal and has a limited sizing range.
If the filter diameter is too small,there is no "adjust the strap" technique.

As per post no.1 in this thread
A garage wont put it up on raise the front only ramps.
A whole lot of crud came out , that I dont think would have on a normal "garage change".. since the oil was last changed about 4k miles ago,not by me :lol:

I checked the oil that came out: filtered it in a funnel.There were some black gritty bits, 2 plastic bits / orangey yellow from the fooked dipstick and dipstick tube.

Maybe theyed never have been returned to oil circulation but:
Like Shrek says "better out than in".

Filter is oil tight.. engine seems oil tight. Sump seems oil tight, and this is the first time in at least a year.. and who knows how long before that its had an engine undertray on 

An oil and filter change isnt "rocket surgery"  but thanks to this guide and my own hands on experience, i feel confident Ive done a better oil and filter change than "you cant be drunker than a hungover qwik fitter" change.


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## John-H

Often garages suck the old oil out through the dipstick tube to save labour, leaving the crud inside.


----------



## Elsomrstt

I decided to change the oil on my TT due to factor that VW garage near me wonted *200 euros plus vat, about £170*, and for that it was just an oil change nothing else, I had to sit down at this point.
They were also going to use long life oil which he told would mean, not needing to change the oil for another 20000 miles, I thought this odd as most of the posting on here say no more than every 10000 miles but idealy every 5000 miles, so 50 euro's for oil and fliter and couple of hours trying to get the dame old oil fliter off, it was done,.
Next time will be easier
LOL


----------



## John-H

It depends whether the ECU has been set to fixed or variable service. Variable service uses temperature, mileage, time and other engine data to calculate the condition of the oil. It's vitally important in this case to use the correct synthetic oil to VW 503.01 or superseding 504.00 to ensure no sludge build up etc. You may get up to 20k miles but it could be much less depending on driving conditions.

Many people have switched to fixed service at 10k miles where a long life oil is not strictly necessary. The VW spec also defines other important qualities and while it's not now strictly necessary to keep to the spec for warranty purposes, if out of warranty period, qualities such as high pressure bearing load properties should be maintained.

A good quality properly specified synthetic should not degrade and require changing at 5K. Those recommendations mainly came from US fleet servicing.


----------



## Thistlebeeace

Chaps, is there a tried and tested way to crank the engine without fuel and/or spark?

This is my favoured way to build oil pressure after a change, as I can't bear to see an oil light on whilst the engine is running (no matter how short a period!) - on my old Peugeots/Citroens I could whip out the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the ignition module, and on my BM I disconnect the crank sensors for similar effect.

I've prefilled the filter, but if there's a simple way to disable either fuel or spark I'd love to hear it.

Ta,
Nick


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## John-H

If you are using the correct synthetic oil and especially an ester based one, the second or two before the pressure comes up will make no difference as there well be an oil film present and no metal to metal contact. Often your engine will start without much cranking, so before pressure build up anyway.

If you still want to do this then you could pull all the injector connectors off etc.


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## Hoggy

Hi Thistlebeech , Pulling Fuse 32 will disable the injectors.
Hoggy.


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## Thistlebeeace

Thanks both.

Hoggy, fuse 32 sounds nice and simple - I take it it's in the box at the driver's end of the dash (is there even another?). Shouldn't cause any other issues?

(Eta - sorry to be lazy, it's just bl**dy cold outside!)


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## westo3

Although it is probably best to service the car yourself for all the reasons mentioned above,when selling a full service history by an Audi/VW dealer means a lot to most buyers. Bit off a catch 22 really as a competent DIYer would probably do a more thourgh job. I am a little concerned about the comments that long life service not suitable for TT. I have always had the long service from my local VW dealer in France as they recomend this, as I have it serviced every two years I never get any where near 20000 miles between services. I find that the French garages do seem to do the bare minimum on a service I.e. just change the oil for a ridiculous price. If you want anything else you have to tell them.


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## Hoggy

Thistlebeeace said:


> Thanks both.
> 
> Hoggy, fuse 32 sounds nice and simple - I take it it's in the box at the driver's end of the dash (is there even another?). Shouldn't cause any other issues?
> 
> (Eta - sorry to be lazy, it's just bl**dy cold outside!)


Hi, Will cause no probs, but if engine starts on first rise of piston, better to start it & keep revs >1500 rpm & don't let it tick over.
Hoggy.


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## Hoggy

Hi westo3, If doing lots of cold starts & short journeys then AVS should flag up "service" long before the 2 year period is up.
Otherwise should be O.K. but usually recommended to change oil annually regardless of miles traveled. 
Hoggy.


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## Thistlebeeace

Hoggy said:


> Thistlebeeace said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks both.
> 
> Hoggy, fuse 32 sounds nice and simple - I take it it's in the box at the driver's end of the dash (is there even another?). Shouldn't cause any other issues?
> 
> (Eta - sorry to be lazy, it's just bl**dy cold outside!)
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Will cause no probs, but if engine starts on first rise of piston, better to start it & keep revs >1500 rpm & don't let it tick over.
> Hoggy.
Click to expand...

Thanks again - worked fine. Subsequently replaced it, started it up and have since been for a drive to warm through.


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## westo3

Thanks for that info Hoggy so I will change the oil myself every other year so I still get the stamps from the garage


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## westo3

Does the same socket for removing the oil filter for the 1.8 engine fit the oil filter for the 3.2?


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## David C

westo3 said:


> Does the same socket for removing the oil filter for the 1.8 engine fit the oil filter for the 3.2?


36mm socket for the V6 oil filter housing.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=371738&p=2860258


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## westo3

Hi David C Many thanks


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## ttmk18n

Top write up will be doing a service over the bank holiday


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## Tradman

Hi Everyone

I've just bought a 2002 TT mk1(BAM) 180,000km with partial service history up to the agents which ended on 2011, 120K km service.
Unfortunately there's no manual so I'm not sure what oil to use. I've read John H post on oil but that was in 2005. 
Have the oil standards changed again since then? 
Should I use a 0w-30 or 0W-40? Fully synthetic. I live in SA so it can get hot here. I also like Liqui Molly as a brand. 
They have a 30,000km option and a 15,000km. Will it make that much of a difference given the age of the car?
In addition, should I do en engine flush too? Liqui Molly have a product for this too.
Thanks in advance for your input
Tim


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## Hoggy

Hi Tim, Welcome to the TTF & TT ownership.
Correct Audi spec is 504/507, common oils of correct spec are Castrol Edge Titanium 5w-30 & Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30.
No idea what the equivalent is in SA but that is the recommended Audi spec.
Hoggy.


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## Tradman

Thanks Hoggy, much appreciated


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## Pukmeister

Many oils say they are to VW 504/507 standard (even supermarket own brands) but that may not be the same as the brands of oils actually approved by VW/Audi to 504/507.


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## David C

Pukmeister said:


> Many oils say they are to VW 504/507 standard (even supermarket own brands) but that may not be the same as the brands of oils actually approved by VW/Audi to 504/507.


Exactly.
"Meets the requirements of VW504.00"
Is not the same as
"VW504.00 Approved"


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## Tradman

Thanks David C and Pukmeister. Well noted.


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