# CG Motorsport clutch - Slipping even when brand new?



## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Hi all,

Had my clutch, dmf, csc done recently (1-2000 miles ago-ish?) it was one of the CG Stage 1 organic clutches that 'Claims' to be 20% uprated over the standard,

Now i'm running a wak map, 3in inlet and big air filter (made 271bhp ~ 280tq) but the old clutch slipped badly in 4th,

It may just be me worrying that i've spent almost a grand getting the clutch done, but in 4th gear onwards, if i'm sitting around 3krpm an give her the boot, the turbo kicks in and the revs seem to go up just a little bit faster than what it feels the car is pulling, not for long, and the revs don't drop again afterwards, I think i'm going to have to get a video and watch in slo-mo...

But honestly, if this is the case, i'm truly done with the TT.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

CG Motorsport clutch...oh dear.  I've just experienced a major PITA using them.

It sounds like your fitter may not have aligned the flywheel dowel pins with the holes in the pressure plate correctly. This is critical with their kits I was told, as whilst they do "kind of" fit in several positions, there's only one where the bolts fully torque up and apply the correct and even pressure to the plate under load. I had them mark my pressure plate with silver paint to ensure the correct alignment.

Or could be something completly different. I'm running (finally) a 5 paddle ceramic plate, lightened flywheel and high pressure plate and all seems fine now. The first one was a disaster though. Never again. :?

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Hi Von twiznig,

Wouldn't misalignment mean the pressure plate would never be under full load and thus it would slip really easily?

I think i'm just going to have to video and see what guys here think?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

andy_k said:


> Hi Von twiznig,
> 
> Wouldn't misalignment mean the pressure plate would never be under full load and thus it would slip really easily?
> 
> I think i'm just going to have to video and see what guys here think?


Maybe, or maybe only when you need that extra 20% torque that you get with the higher gears? Does it slip when you just use revs (power) in the lower gears? Can you get to the redline in 2nd and 3rd say without it slipping?

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Yeah it pulls like a train in 2nd and 3rd all the way to red.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

After purchasing and having the 666 Series CG Motorsport clutch and flywheel kit installed I can now officially say that I am filling my pants ... It was fitted by a garage that only fit clutches and flywheels all day long and nothing else though if that makes a difference (it will have been installed correctly).


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> After purchasing and having the 666 Series CG Motorsport clutch and flywheel kit installed I can now officially say that I am filling my pants


You'll probably be fine!, Mine is just the basic 20% 'uprated' clutch, I've got a feeling that maybe - it simply just isn't up to the job.

as I said, i'll do a video so the more experienced forum members can have something more worthy to go by than a worried/paranoid tt owner's guess.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I recently got a 3" Tip and well plenty of posts about it..
The delivered torque in 3rd(block 120) went up from about 260(350nm) to 362nm.I started getting slip in 5th
going from say around 3200 full wellie ,revs rising to 4000 , speed not moving,slip.
3rd no slip, it started appearing in 4th too.
test on an incline.
(Did you run it in for 500 miles?)

I got rid of slip(and surge noise) temporarily by fitting a manual boost limiter.
The car is in right now for a clutch change(luk), picking it up today .
I may turn down the boost even more or even following advice disconnect the n75 to allow(I think)the wastegate to open at 6psi or whatever it is ,ie detune the car even below standard till the clutch has bedded in.

This good for 20% more than standard thing.. what does that mean really? is it like 20% more than standard 210 or something,qs has like 240 torque, I think.
or is it 20% more than wot standard clutch is good for,maybe 280 or so?.
The running in.. if its uprated,maybe that takes even longer harder material or something , like uprated brake pads
May not be of any use to you now,but if it really is slipping on a new clutch [smiley=bigcry.gif] ,I dunno what can be done.

After reading this ill be going even more driving miss daisy for awhile . I feel your pain.


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Yeah I ran it in properly,

I don't get any surge sound, it runs really well - lovely spool up sound and the forge 007 is doing its job correctly!
and it certainly doesn't feel like i'm not going anywhere, a video should reveal all,

I'll have to see how it goes.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Von Twinzig said:


> It sounds like your fitter may not have aligned the flywheel dowel pins with the holes in the pressure plate correctly. This is critical with their kits I was told, as whilst they do "kind of" fit in several positions, there's only one where the bolts fully torque up and apply the correct and even pressure to the plate under load. I had them mark my pressure plate with silver paint to ensure the correct alignment.


That doesn't make any sense. Clamp load shouldn't depend on orientation, the components are round. I've never seen a PP that had a specific alignment. Is this some unique to CG design feature?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

CollecTTor said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > It sounds like your fitter may not have aligned the flywheel dowel pins with the holes in the pressure plate correctly. This is critical with their kits I was told, as whilst they do "kind of" fit in several positions, there's only one where the bolts fully torque up and apply the correct and even pressure to the plate under load. I had them mark my pressure plate with silver paint to ensure the correct alignment.
> ...


I too thought it complete BS. Apparently their pressure plate profile locates in one postion only. Whilst it will fit in others, when you torque down the bolts, the seats of the bolt position don't fully close up and the small gap is enough to not allow full and even pressure on the clutch under high torque. These are their words not mine. I still believe it to be complete BS and said in an effort to moved the blame for the slipping first clutch they supplied (wrong clutch plate) on to my fitter.

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

I hope this to be BS, the chap that fitted mine has a tremendous amount of experience with VW/Audi's, I doubt he would get it wrong.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

but assuming you do have clutch slip..what are the solns?

Did you get some "compo" VT?
Incidentally the clutch that was in mine was Luk also and original ,6/11/02 stamped on it.
edit: actually 6/11/02 was on the pp, no date on the disc , but for all the work involved if only the disc was replaced sometime,itd be a bit gaga.
There were no special fitting instructions with my 3 piece.
Seems to me that if special fitting instructions arent supplied with CG (if thats their own diagnosis of the problem)
Then you should have got more than replacement money.
Since the big change cost is the labour.


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## chrissy1502002 (Dec 25, 2011)

I had nothing but problems with my CG dual friction kit to the extent that it was not the right kit for my QS and it took gouges out of my gearbox casing. I wouldn't touch one of their kits again as once they have your money they don't give a shit. It took them over a week after receiving my faulty clutch kit to refund my initial purchase. They point blank refused to pay the labour costs involved as i had to fit another clutch kit due to their incompetence.

My personal preferences are to stick with a LUK 225 clutch kit and flywheel, I'm running circa 300 bhp and have no slip in any gears and there are a few people on here in the regions of 350-400 bhp with no issues.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

chrissy1502002 said:


> I had nothing but problems with my CG dual friction kit to the extent that it was not the right kit for my QS and it took gouges out of my gearbox casing. I wouldn't touch one of their kits again as once they have your money they don't give a shit. It took them over a week after receiving my faulty clutch kit to refund my initial purchase. They point blank refused to pay the labour costs involved as i had to fit another clutch kit due to their incompetence.


This^^^^^^^^^^^^ or a variation on it. No compo for me either even though they supplied completly the wrong kit.

The best we can do is inform the folk here of our experiences so they can weigh up all the options. Sach's, Helix plenty of good kit out there.

VT


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## chrissy1502002 (Dec 25, 2011)

Von Twinzig said:


> chrissy1502002 said:
> 
> 
> > I had nothing but problems with my CG dual friction kit to the extent that it was not the right kit for my QS and it took gouges out of my gearbox casing. I wouldn't touch one of their kits again as once they have your money they don't give a shit. It took them over a week after receiving my faulty clutch kit to refund my initial purchase. They point blank refused to pay the labour costs involved as i had to fit another clutch kit due to their incompetence.
> ...


I couldn't agree more with you!!

They came across as complete cowboys then said they don't pay labour. When i informed them that their terms and conditions cannot infringe or reduce my statutory rights they just kept saying the same old line "we don't pay labour"...... even though they supplied the wrong kit which in turn damaged my flywheel and when I emailed them the first time i drove it i was advised "its a grinding noise caused by the clutch bedding in" when infact it was wearing into my gearbox casing.

Bunch of cowboys and ill do anything I can to inform anyone on here and try and steer anyone away from them.

There are so many better options out there (id rather sell it than give them a penny) and tbh the 225 clutch kit is actually very capable


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Well after a clear run yesterday, I can confirm - It is infact slipping

4th gear from 3000rpm to around 3800rpm it's a very obvious slip.

Will send an email on monday, but I'm pretty disappointed to be honest - especially as it was reccomended to me by cookbot.

I shall report back.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Thats a btrd .
If you disconnect the n75 I believe you only get 6 psi.
"wtf use is that?"
I just mean in terms of protecting whatever bits are ok for now as it has to come out.
Wait for email response, I suppose 
There is one possiblity aside from cg crappiness , Ive read,gearbox seal leak onto the clutch plates.Unlikely, but just thought Id mention.

Did the new clutch engage lower down on pedal travel compared to the old one?

It could be the email will just say return item for replacement , if faulty and by the sounds of things you wont get more than that.Maybe (dunno) they would provide the uprated 666 foc or something.
I dunno how amenable your fitter would be to reduced rate extraction/replacement or can he claim?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

andy_k said:


> Well after a clear run yesterday, I can confirm - It is infact slipping
> 
> 4th gear from 3000rpm to around 3800rpm it's a very obvious slip.
> 
> ...


Ooh deja vu, mine was supplied via Cookbot and slipped in the higher gears above 3000rpm when the boost started to come in. :?

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> There is one possiblity aside from cg crappiness , Ive read,gearbox seal leak onto the clutch plates.Unlikely, but just thought Id mention."


Had all new grarbox seals done at the same time as the replacement - as they were old,



> "Did the new clutch engage lower down on pedal travel compared to the old one?"


Yeah maybe slightly, - I kinda got used to it pretty quickly, - my old one had 82k on it,



> "It could be the email will just say return item for replacement , if faulty and by the sounds of things you wont get more than that.Maybe (dunno) they would provide the uprated 666 foc or something.


I don't want another of the same unless they are willing to pay for it to be fitted - which I expect they won't.
I'll have to wait and see. but my car fits exactly with what their own description says: Suitable for cars with a simple remap.
%20 over the standard clutch should mean it's WELL within the tolerance.



> "I dunno how amenable your fitter would be to reduced rate extraction/replacement or can he claim?"


He will do the work again, but it won't be cheaper. - unless CG motorsport pay some of the cost - which I doubt from what I've read on here so far.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Is this the one?
http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/cg- ... 001646.htm
It doesnt sound like its suitable.
There was someone else enquiring on site about cg and someone, might have been collector. pointed out about torque.
A lot of peeps say x clutch is good for xbhp but its max torque where the crap seems to happen.
Did for me and you too on your old clutch.
If it is that one, and you read down thru the description "up to a 20% increase in stock torque"

For a 225 thats about 250-255 ft/lb or lb/ft maximum.(taking 210 lb/ft as standard).

Then again my standard clutch was slipping,like yours, altho it had 95k up when I got a new one of same type max readout of around 270 , you say 280 on yours.
Just from reading that cg blurb it seems at best v risky that it could handle the torque.
If its a different one fair enough.The stage2 clutch says itll be good for 30% torque increase over standard,even that would only be good for 270 ish according to cg .
That one just says ittl be good for 255 ish torque.

As an aside, if the standard luk one isnt better than the cg stage1 or at least as good as cg stage 2 , I'm gonna be sol as well


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## Wiggles01 (Jun 27, 2014)

Oh dear I have one of the 666 kits that is waiting for my clutch to give up

Has anyone had one fitted with no issues??

Can it be fitted with success if it is marked up in the correct locating position??

VT, how is the replacement kit performing??

I am thinking to send it back for a refund but happy to run with it if it can be fitted and work??

Wig


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Yup that's the one.

the problem is, it sounds as if it's an UPGRADE from the original clutch, - which it clearly isn't. it's WORSE than the OEM clutch, making it not stage 1 but more like stage -1

It is advertised as 'suitable for cars with a simple remap' which is what my car is, and it is not up to the job, it doesn't quote torque numbers anywhere.

"Allows for an increase in stock power up to 20%"

270bhp over 225bhp IS 20 Percent.

"Perfect for cars that just have a simple remap ?" - The question mark certainly seems fitting.

basically they have two options, refund + re-embursment to stop me creating accounts for all forums that relate to the BAM engines and telling anyone and everyone how utterly incapable the parts are. or do nothing and wait and see just how much business I can take away from them. - it's bloody hard to build a good reputation, and very easy to ruin one.

They may be fine with it, but if not then trading standards will be involved, because my car DOES fit what they are advertising, if its not up to the job, it shouldn't be advertised as such.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Wiggles01 said:


> Oh dear I have one of the 666 kits that is waiting for my clutch to give up
> 
> Has anyone had one fitted with no issues??
> 
> ...


Ironically your 666 might be overkill on the tuned to 230 
The 666 and 777 seem to be different animals altogether like really hi performance capable just going by the blurb and the price!..somebody further back in thread got a 666 in.
I dont know much about the double friction paddles/ceramics aspect just the blurb.

Just reading the "detailed info" on stage 1 it seems (and I hope sorry to say) that their stage 1 kit is like andy says worse than a standard luk kit.
Reading stage 2 that also appears to be at best no better than a standard kit.
Reading stage 3 .. that appears it would be ok for andys needs,.. BUT not suitable for road use ack.

If all thats true I dunno what their idea of simple remap is either.It appears stage 1-3 arent much use for road use on an decent wakmap(on a 225).


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Wiggles01 said:


> Oh dear I have one of the 666 kits that is waiting for my clutch to give up
> 
> Has anyone had one fitted with no issues??
> 
> ...


The new one is a 5 paddle ceramic affair, (as it should have been from the get go), a lightened flywheel and a much stronger pressure plate. Interestingly it came with clearly painted alignment marks on the pressure plate after we had the first nonsense. It has been fine straight out of the box. It's rated at over 400lbs/ft (allegedly), which I'll not get near. It's a little more fierce than stock, but not unpleasant. The lightened flywheel has made a big difference to the engine pickup, yet it's driveable in traffic.

My advice FWIW, phone up CG and double check it will work, ask them about the pressure plate alignment, if you don't feel comfy after that, get your money back and buy a blue chip product.

As an aside I went to their factory to take the failed one back. Okay, so I wasn't expecting it to be surgically clean like an F1 garage, but the place is a s**t hole. A multi-let Victorian building on a crumbling estate in a suburb of Leeds. It was crazy busy with local mechanics on a virtual revolving door bringing in a variety of street car clutches for replacement. When I questioned their Motorsport background it seems that most of it is based around the Jap drifting scene. There are photos of drift cars on the office walls. My club racing mates are mostly up north along the M62 corridor, none of them had heard of CG, which was kind of surprising as the Motorsport community are a pretty tight bunch. As I've said elsewhere, every day's a school day. :?

VT


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I think I see it now, kinda in relation to op.

I also entered in a 350z for their stage 1 clutch kit cos that was what I was near to buying sometime back,before a clutch prob was discovered, and VT mentioned about drifting. 
(a)The stage 1 description is the same for any car.
(b)I entered the later 350z engine type (standard replacement clutch for which was well over 1000 quid dmf(parts),compared to like 600 for earlier engine types) when I checked.The cg one is 420 quid
(c)350z has no turbo , so just like a 3.2 tt you wont get much extra out of it over the 313 bhp it makes as standard with a remap.
(d)On first reading of stage 1 clutch description (for turbo TT owners) it sounds like.. here it is, a clutch that has 20% more capacity all round than your bog standard oem one and Id assume the same on first look.

It seems that the stage 1 is like a godsend, thank you cg for 350z 313 bhp normal owners who have a bad clutch .
For 1.8T owners it looks like its shit.
The nb.. this 
Please note: This clutch is not to be used with aftermarket forced induction, such as an upgraded turbo.


Seems like theyve had experience, numerous returns already with mapped turbo.. I mean what does that even mean? .
On the face of it, it looks like dont use this clutch if youve fitted a bigger/hybrid turbo, but it seems more like .
If your car has been mapped to increase boost more than 20% over standard dont use this.
I only see the warning on stage 1 clutch type.


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

"Please note: This clutch is not to be used with aftermarket forced induction, such as an upgraded turbo."

And it is not an upgraded turbo. - I'm running the standard turbo.
I'll send an email tomorrow, depending on how it goes, i'll likely be reporting back with the exact conversaion that arises.

I did actually ask before fitting, whether the +20% meant it would hold 20% more than the standard clutch.

Infact here's the actual email:

Me:
"Thankyou for the reply, - just got the wind up me that I may have bought something unsuitable.

So this clutch should be fine with the figures below? - I'm under the impression that this clutch is better than the OEM clutch.
if so then I'll go ahead and get it fitted."

CG Motorsport:
"A stage 1 clutch can 20% more power and torque than a stock item."

So, if a stock clutch would hold with my remap - Which MANY MANY forum users say it would, then they have outright lied.

Am I correct?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I would say so, but I went slightly further. I told them what my car made now and the plans I had to take it to the end game and what that would be, so they had two sets of torque values. I told them precisely the use...track car not a race car, so no drop clutch standing starts. I needed to drive the car to and from the track, the engine and gearbox wouldn't be coming out every two years to be rebuilt. They had an exact picture of my intended use and what the kit needed to do.

VT


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Currently running 666 CG clutch and SMF. Ran it in for 400 miles and after 100 miles of hard usage no slippage. Gave it the beans in 6th on a private road and all is well. Have gave it a good boost in all gears and no slippage as of yet


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

TT Tom TT said:


> Currently running 666 CG clutch and SMF. Ran it in for 400 miles and after 100 miles of hard usage no slippage. Gave it the beans in 6th on a private road and all is well. Have gave it a good boost in all gears and no slippage as of yet


That's really good news 

I don't think they are necessarily making bad products, that wouldn't make commercial sense, I suspect they don't understand this particular market well enough, what we are doing, the levels of torque and power than can be a achieved relatively easily and last but not least what a ball aching, time consuming and therefore expensive process changing the clutch out is. The flip way Michael said about my first one "Just take it out and drop it back so we can take a look at it" kind of confirmed that. :roll:

VT


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## cookbot (Apr 19, 2011)

With the amount of hit and miss with them, I've stopped selling them now and will only get them if people insist. I'd rather people go for a Sachs performance, even if they are a lot more. They're just less hassle!


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## chrissy1502002 (Dec 25, 2011)

cookbot said:


> With the amount of hit and miss with them, I've stopped selling them now and will only get them if people insist. I'd rather people go for a Sachs performance, even if they are a lot more. They're just less hassle!


^^^ Thats good to hear and backs up the general consensus on here then lol


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Thankyou all for the responses, I have sent them an email asking what I should do next.

I will inform of the response. - I'm not going to bad mouth them for the sake of it, but I did specifically ask if the kit was up to the job and they said it was.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

chrissy1502002 said:


> cookbot said:
> 
> 
> > With the amount of hit and miss with them, I've stopped selling them now and will only get them if people insist. I'd rather people go for a Sachs performance, even if they are a lot more. They're just less hassle!
> ...


I had Sachs organic. Didn't last that long and stank!


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> I had Sachs organic. Didn't last that long and stank!


What power are you running?

Should I be looking at something better? Does anyone know what clutch WILL actually hold at 270bhp @ ~280tq?
I just want something that will hold and last.


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## chrissy1502002 (Dec 25, 2011)

andy_k said:


> > I had Sachs organic. Didn't last that long and stank!
> 
> 
> What power are you running?
> ...


Standard LUK 225 clutch kit..... Im above both those figures on my QS and its fine. There are people on here running big turbos over 350bhp on the 225 clutch kit


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

chrissy1502002 said:


> andy_k said:
> 
> 
> > > I had Sachs organic. Didn't last that long and stank!
> ...


Its more the torque that kills the springs in the DMF on the 225 clutch thats the weak link. I still do run the stock clutch and doesnt slip. However it does make terrible DMF rattle from the torque


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

andy_k said:


> Should I be looking at something better? Does anyone know what clutch WILL actually hold at 270bhp @ ~280tq?
> I just want something that will hold and last.


Aside from the above posts which suggest LUK is good(hope so  )
The reason I suggested disconnecting the N75 or maybe just no more slip testing is cos you got a new dmf ? according to your first post and no point in getting excessive heat on that. I didnt get flywheel replaced, (mech said it was fine).

Im also assuming you had the same audi oem fitment of LUK I had .
You went 280 torque at 82k on it and it started slipping,
Mine started slipping when I got approx 270 torque at 95k.
It did look pretty worn , and I was told it was worn but didnt look like it had been "dogged"(see pics).
Lot of assumptions here 
but if you do get LUk and I have LUK , it seems our clutch life will be reduced, maybe 60-70k for you and 70-80k for me assuming we dont do any other power /torque mods.
Thats how I read it anyway.Not that weel be too worried by the time another 60k is clocked up.

I hope thats the case ,Ive only done 120 miles "driving miss daisy" on my new clutch so wont know for definite personally for another week or 2.
Aside from the other LUK recommenders , Yellow TT says theyre good, at least he said oem is good, and Sandy(who seems to have stopped posting ) also recommended them for hi power apps..
The up to 300bhp thing..unless dropping the clutch at 6000 rpm a lot .. argh  the torque at max bhp is gonna be lower than at say 3500, so , guessing again.,if its good for 300 bhp it might be good for 320 flywheel torque.
Hopefully 270/280/290 would be a pop .


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> andy_k said:
> 
> 
> > Should I be looking at something better? Does anyone know what clutch WILL actually hold at 270bhp @ ~280tq?
> ...


Yes i'm just being careful now, no full throttle at all, - i'd like the DMF to remain good while i get this mess sorted.
i guess 60k is only about 5 years for me, on average mileage so far! so i'll have to think about it, i expect a stage 3 clutch will probably disappear just as fast due to the lesser amount of friction material?

Do let me know how you get on with yours once you're happy she's run in properly, as the figures you are putting out are pretty close to mine,

I've never done a single drop at 6k or any standing starts to be honest, (I have in previous cars though)

So far all i've had back from CG Clutches is the same guy asking for a Invoice number, which I have emailed to him twice already. I'll atleast wait for another reply before having to raise the game a bit, but already it seems like i'm being messed around with.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

andy_k said:


> So far all i've had back from CG Clutches is the same guy asking for a Invoice number, which I have emailed to him twice already. I'll atleast wait for another reply before having to raise the game a bit, but already it seems like i'm being messed around with.


Same. I had my memorised in the end and quoted it as soon as they picked up the phone each time _and_ when I walked in their front door. :?

Nearly quoted back to them one time in a fit of pique "I am not a number, I am a free man!" but I thought it would just go over their heads. :roll:

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

cookbot said:


> With the amount of hit and miss with them, I've stopped selling them now and will only get them if people insist. I'd rather people go for a Sachs performance, even if they are a lot more. They're just less hassle!


Hi Cookbot, do you have any other details that may be useful? ( this was ordered through you )
All i have is an invoice and consignment number:

INVOICE: 16718
Consignment number: 6202318056


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

andy_k said:


> Do let me know how you get on with yours once you're happy she's run in properly, as the figures you are putting out are pretty close to mine,


Will do,should be fine(theoretically  ) might be another week+, hopefully youll be sorted with cg by then.


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> andy_k said:
> 
> 
> > Do let me know how you get on with yours once you're happy she's run in properly, as the figures you are putting out are pretty close to mine,
> ...


Lol, at the rate of 1 email reply per day (7pm onwards for the most part - i expect the guy is quite busy) I think this may take a while.

Rest assured, I'm keeping a careful record - so if they try to mess me about, the whole conversation thread will be posted for all to see. - Could make for some interesting reading depending on how they want to play it...

Looking forward to seeing how you find full boost!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

300 miles + up.. still a bit "scary mary" :lol:

Havent gone over an indicated 15 psi .Yeh a long way from 25 but wth.

Hey check beunhass smf funtimes 
Ill wait for 500 miles + to try full torque in 5th/6th fingers xed.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> 300 miles + up.. still a bit "scary mary" :lol:
> 
> Havent gone over an indicated 15 psi .Yeh a long way from 25 but wth.
> 
> ...


I'd suspect 200 miles is enough even though they state 500 miles. I'd start to give it progressively more load from now on I.E. a bit of boost now and then without going mental.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

yeh well went with 400 miles .
Luk is good for full torque 5th/6th when new n bedded in.Full torque as in 362 nm on audi's own torque sensor. thats around 267ft/lb lb/ft.Boost hitting 25psi,
Not wowee figures or anything ,but I said Id post.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> yeh well went with 400 miles .
> Luk is good for full torque 5th/6th when new n bedded in.Full torque as in 362 nm on audi's own torque sensor. thats around 267ft/lb lb/ft.Boost hitting 25psi,
> Not wowee figures or anything ,but I said Id post.


Well it better should be. The original holds 430 Nm and if i remember right this was the 20% extra jobbie so it should hold 510 Nm :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Beunhaas said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > yeh well went with 400 miles .
> ...


Well not really.More just for andy_k orig poster info
Mine is bog standard luk set 3 piece(not luk gold  )..good for well lots according to posts. If its 430 nm cool long way to go.
He got slip on some cg motorsport set.
Mine seems ok to the 270lb mark, he has 280 ish.
Id like to get 400+nm but not happening atm .


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> yeh well went with 400 miles .
> Luk is good for full torque 5th/6th when new n bedded in.Full torque as in 362 nm on audi's own torque sensor. thats around 267ft/lb lb/ft.Boost hitting 25psi,
> Not wowee figures or anything ,but I said Id post.


There is no Audi torque sensor, it's a calculated value, and one that isn't accurate once modded. It's amazing how you can't seem to comprehend that.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Yawn,
Ok my block 120 readout on my modded TT gives a max reading of 362 nm atm. The clutch isnt slipping at that .The ecu uses input from 5 sensors to calculate the torque ,_block 120 has been known to be accurate on all stock and chipped cars except the B5.5 Passats _ 
Others experience on their own modded cars may or may not agree with that,perhaps they didnt get the remap right ,if they think it isnt so.. gl to em.


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

I'm about to post onto their main facebook page, after a 10 day wait with 7 emails sent and bugger all response other than re-asking for the invoice number i'm pissed as hell...

what kind of clown show is this?

Feel free to take a look, i've posted my experiences with their customer service:
https://www.facebook.com/Clutch.Specialists/timeline

many Thanks for the comments, I hope it encourages them to pay attention.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Yawn,
> Ok my block 120 readout on my modded TT gives a max reading of 362 nm atm. The clutch isnt slipping at that .The ecu uses input from 5 sensors to calculate the torque ,_block 120 has been known to be accurate on all stock and chipped cars except the B5.5 Passats _
> Others experience on their own modded cars may or may not agree with that,perhaps they didnt get the remap right ,if they think it isnt so.. gl to em.


Yawn, another irrelevant statement taken as cold hard fact. Let me know when your rolling road dyno shows the same output as your non existent torque sensor that is now five sensors. "has been known" /= fact.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Itd be nice if I was developing more torque than audi's own readout gives , but as things stand ,having discovered opinions different to Collector's on the accuracy of the readout ,I'm inclined to think its fairly accurate.
Even if the only different opinion to Collector's ,based on past experience, was that of "Paul the octopus" ,I'd be inclined to go with the octopus. Now that is a fact


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Itd be nice if I was developing more torque than audi's own readout gives , but as things stand ,having discovered opinions different to Collector's on the accuracy of the readout ,I'm inclined to think its fairly accurate.
> Even if the only different opinion to Collector's ,based on past experience, was that of "Paul the octopus" ,I'd be inclined to go with the octopus. Now that is a fact


Thanks for confirming what was obvious to me: you don't have a clue what you're talking about.



CollecTTor said:


> Let me know when your rolling road dyno shows the same output


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

andy_k said:


> I'm about to post onto their main facebook page, after a 10 day wait with 7 emails sent and bugger all response other than re-asking for the invoice number i'm pissed as hell...
> 
> what kind of clown show is this?
> 
> ...


Saw it
So? theyre waiting for you to return it or what,why would they keep asking for inv no.?


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Yawn,
> 
> _block 120 has been known to be accurate on all stock and chipped cars except the B5.5 Passats _


Taken from....http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomlive.htm.....

....which also states:


> NOTE: all the information presented is personal opinion and presented in good faith, nothing on these pages is validated or endorsed by Audi


.

:lol: @ "known to be accurate." Yawn indeed.

From Ross Tech's own 120 instructions in the Excel file found here....



> Block 120 should be done in 3rd gear to get a more accurate result


What's that? "More" accurate? It's not an accurate measure in all gears at all times? You don't say!


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> Saw it
> So? theyre waiting for you to return it or what,why would they keep asking for inv no.?


Nope, haven't got as far as that, The one guy who replied to my emails of the last 10 days just said "cookbot bought it, so you should go through him"

= Fobbing off.

the facebook representitive has said 'shes looking into it' for two days so far.

https://www.facebook.com/Clutch.Spe...ment_id=1102537523100272&notif_t=feed_comment

Please guys do feel free to speak your opinions (if you genuinely have any) I think I will have their attention tomorrow when they get back to work and see how much 'activity' has occured overnight


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

andy_k said:


> > Saw it
> > So? theyre waiting for you to return it or what,why would they keep asking for inv no.?
> 
> 
> ...


Funny, I had the complete reverse. Mine was bought through Cookbot, but I got no help on that front so I ended up dealing with Michael at CG direct and had no problems speaking to him and getting a complete new kit. The labour? Now that's another story.

I might get flamed for this and I mean no offence, but retailers have responsibilities. If you buy a TV from John Lewis and it goes wrong you don't break out the Japanese Yellow Pages :?

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

> Funny, I had the complete reverse. Mine was bought through Cookbot, but I got no help on that front so I ended up dealing with Michael at CG direct and had no problems speaking to him and getting a complete new kit. The labour? Now that's another story.
> 
> I might get flamed for this and I mean no offence, but retailers have responsibilities. If you buy a TV from John Lewis and it goes wrong you don't break out the Japanese Yellow Pages :?
> 
> VT


John Lewis are a major worldwide retailer, that's not really a fair comparison. Cookbot has already been in contact with me, but I have said I would like to press them further personally, seeing as I have hard evidence of specifically asking them whether or not this clutch is good enough.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

andy_k said:


> > Funny, I had the complete reverse. Mine was bought through Cookbot, but I got no help on that front so I ended up dealing with Michael at CG direct and had no problems speaking to him and getting a complete new kit. The labour? Now that's another story.
> >
> > I might get flamed for this and I mean no offence, but retailers have responsibilities. If you buy a TV from John Lewis and it goes wrong you don't break out the Japanese Yellow Pages :?
> >
> ...


Okay, you buy a TV from the local family electrical store (because you support local independent businesses as indeed I have done on several occasions) and it goes wrong. Size makes no difference. Retailers have responsibilities. I went direct because the one thing I've learned over the years, including 10 years running construction claims, is that when I'm being dicked about I am way more motivated to get it sorted than any third party. Doesn't make it right though. My advice.....get in your car and drive to Leeds. Bing bonging someone's front door is hard to ignore. I did and 5 day later a new foc clutch arrived in the post. I'm still considering my options regarding getting the labour costs back.

VT


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## andy_k (Sep 5, 2014)

Von Twinzig said:


> andy_k said:
> 
> 
> > > Funny, I had the complete reverse. Mine was bought through Cookbot, but I got no help on that front so I ended up dealing with Michael at CG direct and had no problems speaking to him and getting a complete new kit. The labour? Now that's another story.
> ...


Fair point, but I don't have the time to drive up to leeds, I'm pretty sure the comments on my post on their own public facebook page will do just as much.

If I get no luck then i'll have to go to cookbot, but from what I have heard on here, and from a few posters on their facebook page, He isn't really the one to blame.


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## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Unfortunately your contract is with the retailer you purchased it from, cookbot.
Look at it from the manufacturer's point of view, they have no record of who you are, no record of you purchasing it, just words from someone they have no record of.
Cookbot needs to sort it and arrange a return/replacement/refund, that's your statutory rights under sale of goods & services.


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## cookbot (Apr 19, 2011)

paulw12 said:


> Unfortunately your contract is with the retailer you purchased it from, cookbot.
> Look at it from the manufacturer's point of view, they have no record of who you are, no record of you purchasing it, just words from someone they have no record of.
> Cookbot needs to sort it and arrange a return/replacement/refund, that's your statutory rights under sale of goods & services.


Little misconception here. It was all organised as a group buy so I don't make anything from it - Basically we got a discount for buying 5 kits, one of which was my 666 kit (which I ended up selling at a loss and it actually turned out alright I've heard).

From the amount of grief these cause, I wouldn't be willing to get anymore for anyone unless they begged me!


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## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Oh shite, when group buys go bad.... [smiley=book2.gif]


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

cookbot said:


> paulw12 said:
> 
> 
> > Unfortunately your contract is with the retailer you purchased it from, cookbot.
> ...


I can confirm this, Cookbot sold me the 666 series kit and it's actually a very good bit of kit so far.


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