# LED bulbs - fitments and sources (UPDATED OP)



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Some bulbs fitments and a few links to LED bulbs (in the marketplace) ..

*EXTERIOR BULBS*

*High Beam Headlights* : H7

*Low Beam Headlights (Halogen)* : H1

*Low Beam Headlights (Xenon)* : D2S

*Rear Indicators* : BA15S (white)

*Tail/Brake lights* : BAY15D (white)

*Side Repeaters (wing)* : W5W Wedge (amber)

*Side/parking lights* : 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=828041

*Numberplate* : 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=626930

*REAR Reverse/REAR Fog lights* : http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=642521

*Front Fog lights (Cosmetic)* : http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=659890

*INTERIOR BULBS*

*Complete set of COUPE interior led bulbs* :
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=560585

*COUPE Map/Spot Lights & Centre Light* : 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604985

*COUPE Vanity lights* :
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556001

*COUPE Glovebox, side of the boot and tailgate lights* : 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=597818

*ROADSTER Map/Spot Lights* : 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=625289

I've tried fitting canbus ready LEDs to the *FRONT indicators* (H21W a.k.a. BAY9S fitment, inside headlight clusters) but was unsuccessful - extra resistors would have been required.
To successfully fit LEDs to the *rear/brake lights* dual filament LEDs would be required as well as resistors.

Link to WAK's page about changing bulbs : http://www.wak-tt.com/tt_bulbs/changingbulbs.htm


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Great idea  was looking for this info last week!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I recommend 6000k xenons if fitting LED sidelights, although the standard colour temperature is 4300k (both 55W).


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

What temp did you go for? I fancy the 6000k for both the d2s and side lights. I'd probably use the sides a bit more too if they looked less yellow


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## kevbeans (Jun 14, 2013)

I bought led reverse and sidelight bulbs, are the cree ones that much better? If I switch to the cree might do my headlights at the same time but won't go higher than 5k as I don't want to lose too much light output.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

uv101 said:


> What temp did you go for? I fancy the 6000k for both the d2s and side lights. I'd probably use the sides a bit more too if they looked less yellow


Yes I went for 6k to match the CREE sidelights, someone else said they went for 5k and wished they'd gone for 6k as the 5k were still slightly yellow compared to the sidelights. Apparently though the 4.3k actually have the highest lumens.



kevbeans said:


> I bought led reverse and sidelight bulbs, are the cree ones that much better? If I switch to the cree might do my headlights at the same time but won't go higher than 5k as I don't want to lose too much light output.


Yes the CREE really are that much better. 5k xenons look great I'm sure. If you buy from china you could get both for the same price as one set from the UK and try them both out ;-) My current xenons don't seem very bright at all (probably very old) so anything will be an improvement


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

It was me that put 5k xenons in and wished he'd gone for 6k. The Cree side lights really are an intense white (with hint of blue) light which my 5k xenons can't match.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Sorry t'mill, I was a bit lazy to look back through that thread and namecheck you ;-)
I've been wondering, when are the xenons and the sidelights ever both on at the same time ?


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

The side lights stay on when the xenons are on too. They do a good job of showing up the yellowness in my 5k xenons!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Ahh I have to admit I've never looked, I really should do light checks more often but I don't really drive at night.

The lights I'd really like to replace are the rears/brake lights and all the indicators, but I haven't found a thread where anyone has been successful yet. The interior spot lights would be nice too - but again people have had issues.
If there is a way, hopefully this thread might throw some light on it  ahem, see what I did there


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Those cree red fog lamps ........you'd have thought that they did them with a silver body instead of red!

I've got a clear fog lens so I don't really want a red thing behind it!!! Maybe I need to buy a clear and a red and swap the LEDs over!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Ahh so you've done the cluster symmetry thing and now you need an LED that emits red (because of the clear lens). I wonder how visible the led body will be behind the lens, isn't it quite deep ? I suppose you could paint the body ..

I just noticed that at the top end price wise there are some pretty posh ones with glass domes (like a normal bulb) rated at 25W with 5 x CREE LEDs inside .. There are even some that say they are for brake lights, are canbus, and are even advertised as being for Audi, pricey though ..


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Yep!! Got clear symmetry with a European rear light. I've also done the dual brake light mod (no issues on the MOT either).

Currently i'm just running a std 11 LED bulb (canbus not an issue on the fog) which is ok, but I would have used Cree if I could have got a silver body'd red one  it's bright enough when directly behind but not when you're off axis.

I'll probably get a few of the cree's to play with


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I'd particularly like to do the double break light mod (and ideally double LED) because my clusters are tinted and in summer the lights aren't as bright as they could be. Because they are tinted they are already symmetrical - so thats not an issue for me.

I'd like to officially make you the "go to man" for TT electrics - so please figure out how we can do the rear/brake lights with superbright CREE LED's ;-)


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## kevbeans (Jun 14, 2013)

mullum said:


> I'd particularly like to do the double break light mod (and ideally double LED) because my clusters are tinted and in summer the lights aren't as bright as they could be. Because they are tinted they are already symmetrical - so thats not an issue for me.
> 
> I'd like to officially make you the "go to man" for TT electrics - so please figure out how we can do the rear/brake lights with superbright CREE LED's ;-)


I did the rear symmetry mod and did double brake lights at the same time, tried using LED's and couldn't get them to work even with resistors. Had the same problem with LED's in the indicators, just gave up in the end till someone else figures it out. Due to this thread I'm now going to replace reverse & sides again with cree's so thanks for that :roll:

Also is there much difference in the xenon bulbs regarding make etc.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

kevbeans said:


> Also is there much difference in the xenon bulbs regarding make etc.


I couldn't tell you. But they're often made in the same factory as the "branded" ones, and as they cost a third of the price - if they last half as long then thats a win .. and most bulbs come with a 1 year guarantee anyway.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I don't know if this would be of use to anyone. I haven't tried LED bulbs and they state on here that EU legislation doesn't even allow retrofit LED bulbs for signalling.

Philips CANbus control unit/warning canceller for LED lamps
http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/canbu ... -led-lamps


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

99% sure, those philips units are just high power resistors fitted in parallel with the LED.

I'm not really sure why people are having issues with the rear lights, but if someone wants to loan me some bulbs they are having issues with, I'll try and get to the bottom of the problems once and for all


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I would imagine the Philips units have their own heat sinks and are better than guessing how large your need resistors to be. I looked on the philips web site but the only reference I found to this product was in a downloaded PDF catalogue entry with no description.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Don't bet on it. At that price, there's nothing clever in them. Just a low ohm resistor. Probably about 50w looking at the size of the housing which as you say is also the heatsink.


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## oz_p (Feb 7, 2011)

mullum said:


> I'd particularly like to do the double break light mod (and ideally double LED) because my clusters are tinted and in summer the lights aren't as bright as they could be. Because they are tinted they are already symmetrical - so thats not an issue for me.
> 
> I'd like to officially make you the "go to man" for TT electrics - so please figure out how we can do the rear/brake lights with superbright CREE LED's ;-)


I actually did this and bought LED's that worked to a point, however they would throw up the bulb failed warning on the dis when braking without the lights on, worked fine with them on for some reason!? Took them out as was really annoying...


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Just fitted the side repeaters, very similar light spread and brightness to the standard bulbs.

The Xenons will be going in the boot as spares in case of emergency.

The glovebox, boot and tailgate interior bulbs I bought originally DID NOT FIT. They are the correct fitment, but they are way too long and they have a collar which also is too big for the holder (see photo below).
I've since found some great working alternatives ... see the first post.










My glovebox light doesn't come on, does anybody know how you get it to come on ? Must you turn on the headlights ?
(EDIT - ah got it !)


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Found some bulbs which are perfect for the glovebox, tailgate and boot (coupe).


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## kevbeans (Jun 14, 2013)

Glovebox light only works when you have sidelights on, baffled me for a while why my glovebox one didn't work till I figured that out.


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

Any lights on will do


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I should've tried that !


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Found some great reverse/fog light bulbs.


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

Can anyone provide a link from where i can buy leds for map reading,coz i bought 2 different leds and don`t work!,thanks


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

Anyone? [smiley=help.gif]


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

I haven't got a link unfortunately, but its reverse polarity bulbs that you need. Maybe you could search the bay for these?


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## stuptt225 (Dec 15, 2010)

Anyone got a definative solution for doing LEDs in the vanity mirrors as ive done the rest but cant get vanity mirror ones to work reliably suggesting they need different resistors??


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Have added a new link for the glovebox, tailgate and boot light bulbs. These fit and work


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

double post


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Well I've bought one of each on the first post!  Hope I can tell which is what when they all arrive!


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Received the sidelights today, and like them.... We'll the one that works anyway!! The side firing lights on one bulb doesn't work. Requested they send me one replacement.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I had a problem with the cheap xenons I ordered, I fitted one side but the bulb would only illuminate for 10 seconds and then turn off. After that I didn't even bother trying the other bulb (it's quite a fiddle fitting the xenons).
Seller looks like they're going to issue a refund though.

* edit. Seller refunded and I've since found a great source for xenons

I've also found some 9 LED amber side repeaters (as opposed to the 5 led ones). They should be a bit brighter, of course.


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

stuptt225 said:


> Anyone got a definative solution for doing LEDs in the vanity mirrors as ive done the rest but cant get vanity mirror ones to work reliably suggesting they need different resistors??


Taken from another thread answered by tommatt90 which may help you:

Fizzmo on eBay sell the reverse polarity bulbs needed, you have to message them however and ask for them.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

wilson said:


> Received the sidelights today, and like them.... We'll the one that works anyway!! The side firing lights on one bulb doesn't work. Requested they send me one replacement.


Can anyone find me these bulbs from another ebayer please?? I don't really know what I'm looking for....
* ***and with side smd - http://bit.ly/1c64ol5 (pair)**** 
he wants me to send the faulty bulb back for testing before he'll send me a new one... Like I'm trying to pull a fast one for a single sidelight bulb!! I'd rather just buy another pair from somebody different!

Thanks


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

See the first post


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H6W-434-BAx9s ... 48596aa742
> 
> I'm going to change the original post to these ones.


Thanks, I'll order them


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## stuptt225 (Dec 15, 2010)

t'mill said:


> stuptt225 said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone got a definative solution for doing LEDs in the vanity mirrors as ive done the rest but cant get vanity mirror ones to work reliably suggesting they need different resistors??
> ...


The vanity mirror ones are festoon bulbs mate so have no polarity (you might be confused with the spotlight bulbs that must be reverse polarised in the courtesy light.

Currently my only answer is to try matching the wattage of the existing bulb using a big resistor but would rather a more elegant solution. The CAN BUS is a modding nightmare [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## stuptt225 (Dec 15, 2010)

stuptt225 said:


> t'mill said:
> 
> 
> > stuptt225 said:
> ...


* when i say no polarity I mean they can be easily put in either way around unlike a bayonet fit bulb!


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Anything found for all the other lights?

Front Fog
Rear Lights
Brake
Indicators
Map Readers
Vanity


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

wilson said:


> Anything found for all the other lights?


Rear/Brake Lights : they are dual filament and as far as I know, nobody has successfully fitted LEDs - planty of "theory" though

Indicators : apparently can be done using "canbus/error free" type LEDs with built in resistors. They are the same fitment as the fog/reverse - ideally AMBER bulbs as white bulbs will produce a more "yellow" indicator than amber.

Map lights : see the first post
Vanity : see the first post
Front Fog : see the first post

I had hoped that people might contribute to this thread with information and suggestions. Unfortunately there seems to be very little interest, perhaps because its not quite as blokey as the dirty-hands-engine-stuff :lol:

I'll update the first post as and when I fit more bulbs myself.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

I like the idea (as with all past cars) to keep the car looking close to original spec, but I do like LED lights, they are subtle but look clean, crisp and clear. I also have a lot of LED lights in my house for the same reason. I'm certainly no expert when it comes to what to buy and need to be told what fits rather than guessing myself.

Would be good if a post like your first post was made a sticky somewhere.

So the Indicators and map lights should be ok if I buy the ones for reverse/fog and number plate? Or do these not have the resistors you mention?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Its like this. Recently I've been following a few threads where the map lights and indicators were discussed. But I sort of lost interest in transferring that info over to here - I'm still waiting for some of my bulbs to arrive from Asia !

If I were you I'd do some searches and see what info you can find, as I just don't feel like writing it all up here today.

some threads I've been following :

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=434249

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=214467


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Will have a look this evening, thanks.

I am still waiting some from asia also!


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Tare071 said:


> All those mods are nice and easy but why not just buy central LED map light with resistor?
> Why tinkering with whole map system and/or soldering resistors over LED which will heat up the whole case when you can buy already flicker free LED over ebay for 3 pounds.....
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCs-36mm-3SMD- ... 43b52a0238
> i have these no flicker no problem what so ever !


I've just bought the map lights that Tare071 mentioned in one of the links you posted... probably take two or three weeks to get here but willing to try for the sake of £3... I like LED lights but its got to be all or nothing.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

but didn't I post a link to a better and cheaper pair underneath ?



mullum said:


> Do you have LEDs in the map lights at the same time ?
> 
> I bought these ones, with 6 LEDs instead of 3 - price for a PAIR from Asia :
> http://bit.ly/1hruarf
> ...


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

bugger, didn't notice that... although the link of the ones he's bought state the word resistors, being no expert that's what forced me to the BIN button :roll:  Ordered now so I'll give them a try anyway.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

well Ive update my original post on this thread to reflect what I know up to this point. Really though, I prefer to wait for the festoon (c5w) bulbs to arrive so I can test them before I send people off to buy them.
I've been told something as a fact on here many times, only to later discover that its not a fact at all !


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> so I can test them before I send people off to buy them.
> I've been told something as a fact on here many times, only to later discover that its not a fact at all !


And when the ones I've ordered arrive and I've fitted I will update on this post.

BTW the sidelights I ordered where one didn't work I just received one replacement today.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I did the double break light mod today, 5 minute job and I didn't even bother with heating the plastic weld, I just bent the contact up and back down again. Thanks to whoever sent me the clips, and sorry I don't remember who it was 

Whilst I was there I thought I'd stick the CREE LEDs that I have (currently in the fog and reverse lights) - into the indicators, just to check the brightness (as I already knew they wouldn't blink at the correct rate, due to not having built in resistors).
These CREE LEDs also have side firing SMD LEDs, so the spread of light should be pretty good. Unfortunately the results weren't great, first of all the light spread WASN'T good - they were very distinctly two forward firing bulbs. This lead me to think that for some reason the side SMD's aren't working. Unfortunately, due to the cluster design - there isn't really any way to tell. (Actually if I left everything loose there might be a way).

Secondly, the light coming through the lenses was much more yellow than orange/amber. So I reckon that anyone fitting LED's to the indicators should go for AMBER bulbs rather than white. You could then, if you wished, remove the amber lenses from inside the cluster (looks easy enough). This might give a brighter result than leaving the lenses in.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

See first post


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Are they the glovebox and inside boot lights? Let us know when fitted, mine haven't arrived yet.

Received and fitted reverse light yesterday, works fine, but doesn't actually light up behind very well for reversing in the dark. think I prefer the standard bulb just for that reason.

Also received and fitted these 6000 xenons which I like and in my opinion match the led sidelights better, bargain price I thought as they work, (for how long we'll see!!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190677178673? ... 417wt_1193


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

wilson said:


> Are they the glovebox and inside boot lights? Let us know when fitted, mine haven't arrived yet.


Yes they are, they fit, work and look good - bright. Bear in mind these are not the same as in my original post - as per my subsequent comments, they didn't fit. These are the one i suggested later. Pm me the link of the one you bought if ur not sure. Prolly best not to post here or someone might get them by accident !



wilson said:


> Received and fitted reverse light yesterday, works fine, but doesn't actually light up behind very well for reversing in the dark. think I prefer the standard bulb just for that reason.


As per my earlier comments, I wasn't impressed either. Can you see if the side smd's are working ?



wilson said:


> Also received and fitted these 6000 xenons which I like and in my opinion match the led sidelights better, bargain price I thought as they work, (for how long we'll see!!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190677178673? ... 417wt_1193


One of mine only worked for 10 seconds at a time. As per my earlier comments.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Yes, I bought the later glovebox ones after you changed them, so all good there if I ever get them!

Reverse light... I didn't check before fitting to the casing so can't answer about the sides, it is much brighter looking at the car, but doesn't actually light up the area behind the car very well. if that makes sense!!

Xenons... well I did about an hour driving last night and both stayed on for the whole time, but will bear in mind and report back if either go at all.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

wilson said:


> Yes, I bought the later glovebox ones after you changed them, so all good there if I ever get them!


Mine came reasonably quickly, so yours must be due any day now. The "festoon" bulbs (numberplate and centre light) are the ones that I think aren't going to arrive. They quote something like a 2 month delivery window so I can't start a case until after xmas.



wilson said:


> Reverse light... I didn't check before fitting to the casing so can't answer about the sides, it is much brighter looking at the car, but doesn't actually light up the area behind the car very well. if that makes sense!!


Maybe its because the LEDs are much whiter/bluer.



wilson said:


> Xenons... well I did about an hour driving last night and both stayed on for the whole time, but will bear in mind and report back if either go at all.


Pain in the bum to install them eh. When one of mine played up I didn't even bother with the other one. I'll probably order another set - maybe from a UK seller this time. Doubt that means they'll be any better quality at the lower end of the price range - but at least they'll arrive sooner.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> wilson said:
> 
> 
> > Reverse light... I didn't check before fitting to the casing so can't answer about the sides, it is much brighter looking at the car, but doesn't actually light up the area behind the car very well. if that makes sense!!
> ...


My thoughts exactly, LED's work fine, just the light they give is not suitable as a reverse light!



mullum said:


> wilson said:
> 
> 
> > Xenons... well I did about an hour driving last night and both stayed on for the whole time, but will bear in mind and report back if either go at all.
> ...


Too right they are.... fiddly as **** in there and the holder were tight as!! I hope they continue to work because I'm not keen to change them again anytime soon!


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## T1 4LEX (Sep 23, 2013)

Hi guys
Are the side lights definitely the odd leg lamps. 
I've recently bought some and they came standard leg. 
Cheers

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

T1 4LEX said:


> Hi guys
> Are the side lights definitely the odd leg lamps.
> I've recently bought some and they came standard leg.
> Cheers
> ...


The ones that Mullum put on his original post definitely are because I bought them and have fitted them, here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331030427088? ... 323wt_1193 I bought them and fitted them, one didn't work but ebay shop replaced and all fit and work fine.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

What does he mean "odd leg lamps" ?


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> What does he mean "odd leg lamps" ?


I don't know what they are officially called, but the little bumps on the bulb fitments that hold the bulb in place aren't at 180 degrees from each other on TT's.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

wilson said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > What does he mean "odd leg lamps" ?
> ...


Offset Pins


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Centre interior bulbs turned up today, eventually, http://bit.ly/1hU4d19 fitted and work fine, but look a bastard with standard map lights, they best hurry up!!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cool, I bought mine early November and they still haven't arrived :-| They're about to issue a refund so once they do I'm going to look for some more. I only ordered the map lights the other week so I don't expect them any time soon. You never know though ...


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> Cool, I bought mine early November and they still haven't arrived :-| They're about to issue a refund so once they do I'm going to look for some more. I only ordered the map lights the other week so I don't expect them any time soon. You never know though ...


There were two I obviously only need the one, do you want the other? Give me your address I'll try and remember to post out tomorrow


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Nice one, I'll PM you.
I've got a spare glovebox/boot/tailgate bulb if you want it


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## TT DWN UNDER (Aug 29, 2007)

Just wondering, since the cheepy xenons are questionable in quality is there a more expensive option that is more
reliable and likely to last longer? My original ones have lasted over 10 years and would hope some new ones would too.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

TT DWN UNDER said:


> Just wondering, since the cheepy xenons are questionable in quality is there a more expensive option that is more
> reliable and likely to last longer? My original ones have lasted over 10 years and would hope some new ones would too.


I've just gone cheapy for now... seem ok so far, if they fail in the future then will go the more expensive route.
From searching on here seems 50/50 on cheapy's... I cant find it now but doing a search on xenons there was quite a good thread linking to better quality ones, the brand Phillips rings a bell... have a search.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> Nice one, I'll PM you.


Posted out to you mate, Map readers arrived today, will try them sometime this afternoon.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cool, and thanks again. Fingers crossed the map/centre light combo works ...


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

My mistake, I got in a muddle and ordered completely the wrong bulbs somehow... not even the same fitment as the map readers!! They fit my licence plate lights!!! :?

What an idiot... now ordering map readers!!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I think I just blew the fuse on the numberplate lights :?
It's a 5A but I've only got a spare 10A :?


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> *Map/spot lights* : t4w/ba9s canbus/error free led
> 
> I've read on here they should be reverse polarity but I can't find any links for those. Probably best to buy canbus/error free (as I understand they have built in resistors) Again, I haven't fitted these, so buyer be aware ! The more LEDs the longer they'll be and the higher the chance they won't fit !
> 
> UK : http://bit.ly/14ZDEmI (pair, 5x SMD LED)


These map reading lights arrived today (next day) fit fine but simply don't work... tried both in each map light and tried both ways round. So these ones are a no go mate. Any other suggestions?


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## tangapants (Oct 10, 2012)

mullum said:


> Cheap xenons links .. (various colour temps available) : 35w d2s
> China :
> 5k - http://bit.ly/17JjsZa
> 6k - http://bit.ly/17Jjikw (I ordered these - but see below*)
> ...


Hi Mullum,

How much are the genuine ones? just wondered.

Cheers


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

tangapants said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > Cheap xenons links .. (various colour temps available) : 35w d2s
> ...


I looked on ECP and they were £70-90 EACH !

If I was in a hurry I'd buy some of the cheap ones from a UK seller for between £10-15. I'd probably try another brand though - although some have fitted that brand without issues - I'd just like to see if an alternative is better. The packaging on those is really easy to identify, and the bulbs themselves have a WHITE bar that goes the length of the bulb. I've seen some with different packaging and a black bar - they're often listed as being a higher quality than those I bought (the cheapest you can buy). You can probably find them from an Asian seller too - I just haven't tried that yet. Its just the time they take to arrive, as sellers though I actually find the Asian suppliers very good with refunds etc. Possibly better than the UK ones, who often require that you return a faulty bulb - which is added expense. The Asian ones just issue a refund.


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

I strongly recommend philips or osram,are 30-35£ each on ebay;don`t buy crap cheap chinese stuff!


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## Bago47 (Nov 27, 2011)

wilson said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > *Map/spot lights* : t4w/ba9s canbus/error free led
> ...


You could probably try to solder + and - the other way round?


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Bago47 said:


> You could probably try to solder + and - the other way round?


I'm looking at doing the full add resistors mod now, rather than trying to take shortcuts, seems fairly simple to do, just need to ensure I have the right bulbs and resistors first.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Wilson, Sorry I missed your earlier post about the map light LEDs not working. I'll remove the links until we find a solution, thanks for sharing the info.


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## tangapants (Oct 10, 2012)

mullum said:


> tangapants said:
> 
> 
> > mullum said:
> ...


Wow! i'd probably go for the UK ones then, rather go through a few of them for a tenner a time.

so i'm guessing the only difference would be how long the bulbs last? would light quality or brightness be a difference?

Cheers


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

To be honest I can't say whether they are as good, better or worse. Probably better starting a discussion in another thread where people with some more experience can comment. This thread is really for LED bulbs, I just happened to buy some xenons at the same time I started this thread and posted some links.
I will say that I'd never pay £90 a bulb, not in a million years.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

mullum said:


> I will say that I'd never pay £90 a bulb, not in a million years.


I'll second that


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## T1 4LEX (Sep 23, 2013)

These side lights are incredibly bright. The dimmer one was another set I bought a couple of months back. Not the most reliable as one or two leds has started dieing! 
Cheers for the tip on the lights!

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

No worries  good to see someone other than Wilson and I - took any interest in the thread :lol:


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## T1 4LEX (Sep 23, 2013)

My side lights look crisp. 
Anyone got any suggestions for dipped beam to match? Think the fitment is H1 ?
Cheers

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

This thread is for LED bulbs I'm afraid. I suggest you start a specific thread where people can discuss the options, if any. 
Apart from that, I wouldn't know as my car uses xenons. But have a look here :
http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk
Someone in another thread mentioned they bought some LED H1's from there ..


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Just to update, all my interior led lights are working after soldering resistors to the map lights.

Also had to remove the LED from my reverse light, as mentioned before wasn't great anyway, but found it interfered with my radio when in reverse, it's not a big deal but did start to annoy me


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Good news mate. Time I invested in a soldering iron.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

[album]3041[/album]


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

For me on tapatalk, that image is microscopic mate. Might be ok in a standard browser ...


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

I was using my iPad, I can't see how to post pictures on this forum, I try using the album!! I think I'll go back to the old way using photobucket!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Just get Tapatalk for ipad, the best way to use this forum by a long shot. Although there's a new app called Autoguide which the site supports. They no longer support Tapatalk, but it still works - for now.


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## safariTT (Dec 15, 2010)

Mark. Very informative.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Anyway, first post updated.


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

wilson said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > *Map/spot lights* : t4w/ba9s canbus/error free led
> ...


Regarding the map reading lights, The polarity is the opposite way round to normal (with mine anyway) so i unsoldered mine and changed the pos and neg around, Job done. No need for resistors!
PS just looked at the link, i bougt those exact leds from that seller too lol


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

TTdaz said:


> Regarding the map reading lights, The polarity is the opposite way round to normal (with mine anyway) so i unsoldered mine and changed the pos and neg around, Job done. No need for resistors!
> PS just looked at the link, i bougt those exact leds from that seller too lol


So you're saying that you got the bulbs which don't work at all - to work - by re-soldering them with opposite polarity. But are they working correctly ? As in - can you turn them on individually even after the courtesy light period has ended ?
Because the resistors were to fix the functionality of the "no polarity" bulbs we're using now (not the first bulbs we bought, as you did - which didn't work AT ALL due to the polarity).
Do you think you could post exactly how you did the re-soldering ? Cheers


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

For anyone after some 6000k xenons, this UK seller of quality bulbs accepts £9 delivered :
http://bit.ly/1494nuY


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> TTdaz said:
> 
> 
> > Regarding the map reading lights, The polarity is the opposite way round to normal (with mine anyway) so i unsoldered mine and changed the pos and neg around, Job done. No need for resistors!
> ...


Yes all works as it should, I worked out the polarity prob after i took the whole unit out and soldered resisters in but the still didnt work. I put the unit back in and checked which was pos and neg, Turned out to be the opersit way round!. So i took the unit out for bugger all lol. changed the polarity on the bulb and works perfect. 
Maybe a quick check first for you, Try connecting wires to the unit and touch the bulb the oppersit connections to the way it currently fits just to check first. my unit was positive outer and negative bottom.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

But how did you solder the bulbs to be reverse polarity ?


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

I just attempted this (Soldering on the resistors) Ended up that the whole unit isnt working anymore.
I reckon the amount of heat required to solder onto those large surfaces has blown something on the main board


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> But how did you solder the bulbs to be reverse polarity ?


the leds we spoke of are just a wedge led in a bax9 base, so one terminal is soldered to the outer case and the other terminal has a wire soldered to it and pokes out of the bottom which is then soldered into a ball. like I said the bottoms was the positive and the outer was negative, The light unit was the other way around. I heated the solder on the bottom and pushed the wire inside so it was free, Then look which side is soldered to the outer case and using the solder iron again heat the solder and at the same time be softly pulling them apart. Once apart swap the wire over, Solder the wire making sure it still pokes out the bottom when the led is back in the base. Solder this first the drip solder onto the other terminal where it touches the outer case which will securely hold it to the base. Jobs a gooden!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cheers daz, should help those who've bought the wrong LEDs to get them to work.

One other thing though, and don't take this the wrong way !
You say that they are working "properly" - but that's the bit I'm having trouble believing. Like I said earlier, the resistors are there for the functionality. First of all though, I presume you're using normal LEDs without resistors in both of the map lights AND in the centre light ? You mentioned earlier that you fitted resistors initially, you've since removed those, correct ?
Can you try waiting for the lights to go off after closing the drivers door. Now try to turn on the map lights individually, but NOT the centre light. Do the map lights illuminate correctly ?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

jhoneyman said:


> I just attempted this (Soldering on the resistors) Ended up that the whole unit isnt working anymore.
> I reckon the amount of heat required to solder onto those large surfaces has blown something on the main board


Just read this mate, that's a nightmare. 
Have you checked the other interior lights ? perhaps the fuse has gone ?
If not, Pm me, I might have a spare unit.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Electric windows are not working either .. So either it's a fuse or the interior light unit needs to be present to complete the circuit (currently out of car)
Will check shortly


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Gotta be a fuse - I blew one fitting my numberplate bulbs. 
Always make sure everything is off before changing bulbs. That means closing the drivers door too !


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

mullum said:


> Gotta be a fuse - I blew one fitting my numberplate bulbs.
> Always make sure everything is off before changing bulbs. That means closing the drivers door too !


It was a fuse.. Typical - all ok now though


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Cheers daz, should help those who've bought the wrong LEDs to get them to work.
> 
> One other thing though, and don't take this the wrong way !
> You say that they are working "properly" - but that's the bit I'm having trouble believing. Like I said earlier, the resistors are there for the functionality. First of all though, I presume you're using normal LEDs without resistors in both of the map lights AND in the centre light ? You mentioned earlier that you fitted resistors initially, you've since removed those, correct ?
> Can you try waiting for the lights to go off after closing the drivers door. Now try to turn on the map lights individually, but NOT the centre light. Do the map lights illuminate correctly ?


Your making me giggle! , Am i blowing your mind with this lol. They do indeed work all as they should i will try and upload a video of them turned on individually and dimming when i get chance. 
ps the glovebox and boot lights needed resistors.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

TTdaz said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > Cheers daz, should help those who've bought the wrong LEDs to get them to work.
> ...


This is all a can of worms.. I have LED's in my glove and boot with no resistors. What are the implications if no resistors?


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

This is all a can of worms.. I have LED's in my glove and boot with no resistors. What are the implications if no resistors?[/quote said:


> If they work and no lights come up on dash then i say fine. To my knowledge the resistors are used only to draw a current to fool the car into thinking the bulbs all good, When using smd lights the wattage is to little for the car to recognise so stops the power to it hence the use of resistors. resistors do not change polarity!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Jhoneyman - its not a can of worms mate, the glovebox, tailgate and boot DO NOT require resistors ! and they ARE NOT in anyway linked to the cars bulb warning system.

TTdaz - You are not blowing my mind. I did ask you not to take my question the wrong way, we just want to be sure that the information you are providing is 100% correct.

Unfortunately not everything you've said IS correct so it's necessary to ask you specifically about the functionality issue. It's nothing personal, so please don't make it so.

The only bulbs available from me, which DO require resistors to fool *the warning system* are the numberplate bulbs. Think about it, the warning system is for safety/legally critical bulbs only. Bulbs such as those used for braking, indicating or headlights are all critical. Even then there are some exceptions - the LED side repeaters don't require resistors either.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

i was merely responding to someone else's post.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Sure John, and I'm just letting you know what my response to his post is 

I've moved around the paragraphs so you can see I'm addressing him - but I've not changed one word


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Jhoneyman - its not a can of worms mate, the glovebox, tailgate and boot DO NOT require resistors ! and they ARE NOT in anyway linked to the cars bulb warning system.
> 
> TTdaz - You are not blowing my mind. I did ask you not to take my question the wrong way, we just want to be sure that the information you are providing is 100% correct.
> 
> ...


I didnt take you question the wrong way! I was just having a laugh. 
my led bulbs are like this and they all work as they should:
Center interior is 42mm festoon, Worked straight away (if not turn around) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271002947539? ... 1497.l2648
Map lights are: ba9s I had to change the polarity around ( No Resistors ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221035634360? ... 1497.l2648
Glove box is a 5 smd wedge which needed a resistor to work: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370834202219? ... 1497.l2648
Boot lights are 9 smd wedge which needed a resistors: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330858877076? ... 1497.l2648
Number plate leds are 36mm festoon ( NO resistors ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281081770851? ... 1497.l2648
Sun visor vanity lights are 36mm festoon ( No resistors ) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360683860768? ... 1497.l2648
The The resistors i used were 2w 150ohm: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400610157366? ... 1497.l2648

Im in no way associated to any of the people i have linked.
Hope this helps with any confusion,
Daz.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hi daz, good to hear you were only having a laugh 

I hope you take this the same way ...

The 9 SMD bulbs you list for the boot, I'm surprised you managed to get those in the holders ! Must have been a very tight fit !
Even the 5 smd for the glovebox seem a bit on the large side. Mine are flat and direct the light only in the direction of the clear plastic window on the holder.

The numberplate bulbs you list as "no resistors", they do in fact have resistors built in - so I presume you mean "require no resistors" (just to be clear mate). Shame they're only 3 smd, sure the numberplate bulbs don't need to be all that bright. You can get 6 smd though ;-)

The centre light led, glad you've finally confirmed that the one you're using has a resistor. That helps us towards figuring out why your map lights are working properly  that's the same sort of centre light led were all using.

The vanity light bulbs you list as having no resistors, they do in fact have resistors built in too - so again "do not require resistors" ;-)

You link to some resistors in eBay, but I'm afraid you haven't been clear about where you've fitted these. Sorry, but I just want to know exactly where and how you fitted them, if possible 

Just so you know, and to be clear for anyone else - the only bulbs listed on this thread which require resistors (to work with the same functionality as standard bulbs) are the map lights. Just to make them work individually when the courtesy period ends.
All other bulbs either have resistors built in, or do not require resistors


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Hi daz, good to hear you were only having a laugh
> 
> I hope you take this the same way ...
> 
> ...


Yeah I know they have the built in error free stuff, I assure you the glovebox and boot ones have them too but did not work, Then added the resistors and they did ! lol
Im sure using no canbus leds in the map lights also work with changed polarity, im gonna check tomo now cus its bugging me lol.
Did you try changing the polarity on the map leds to confirm for yourself? 
I got a vid of my lights if it helps in any way !!!!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hi daz I was still writing/editing my post when you replied / please just check it again mate ;-)


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I have some bulbs which require reversing the polarity - as you have done - and I will definitely be trying it ! I just need to get into town to Maplin and get a soldering iron


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Hi daz I was still writing/editing my post when you replied / please just check it again mate ;-)


Sorry Buddy I dont mean to take any Business away from you with the links or anything! 
I Have only had my TT since a week before i joined here so i just stated buying stuff lol.
Regarding the resistors, I used them in the glovebox and boot, Nowhere else. I just wrapped them around the metal connections, I was at work at the time and so no solder iron. 
I can get a pick tomo if it helps!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Don't worry, although some of your links are to cheaper bulbs - my bulbs are, in my humble opinion, better :lol: and none require resistors or soldering. Well, except the map lights, and I'm working on those ! :-D (and actually, even now it's not NECESSARY to fit resistors if you can live with using them WITH the centre light).

Those resistors you've wrapped around the connectors - they could get quite hot mate, probably best to solder them and heat shrink them - if not remove them and fit some of mine ;-)


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Don't worry, although some of your links are to cheaper bulbs - my bulbs are, in my humble opinion, better :lol: and none require resistors or soldering. Well, except the map lights, and I'm working on those ! :-D


once you have done one bulb you will see there is nothing to it. [smiley=cheers.gif]
Ps or you could get wedge bulbs and the base caps, Saves unsoldering and maybe cheaper!


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## uv101 (Aug 17, 2013)

The resistors that have been linked to are 150K not 150ohms.

150K will definitely not get hot as they do virtually nothing

V (volts)=I (current) x R (resistance)
therefor I=V/R

13v/150,000r = 0.00008667A

Its doing nothing!

All LED bulbs will only draw a fraction of what the original filament bulbs draw. The idea of any resistor is to present a similar load to the circuit whilst using an LED.

A 5w bulb will draw about 400mA (0.4A) as would a 34ohm 5w resistor (based on 13v) Thats going to get hot (as does a bulb)
You are only looking to fool the bulb warning system, so you want to use the highest value resistor you can that doesn't trigger the system. The higher the resistor, the lower the current draw through it and the cooler it will run. Go too high, and the system will detect it as a bulb failure due to the current draw being low.

LED's are always directional! They have an anode and a cathode and only conduct current in a single direction

Having studied the diagram for the interior light, I can see no electrical reason why you need the resistor (sometimes built in) for the centre festoon light but I understand there are some other problems with dim map reading lights if its not used.

Last thing, if the LED bulb claims to be error free, it should have the resistor built in. There should be no reason to add an additional resistor.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Thanks for your input uv101 

TTdaz, could you upload the video of you demonstrating the map lights working independently please ? Door closed, courtesy period over, light unit switch selector set in the middle and map lights individually turned on (not with the centre light).
Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I can confirm from some work I did a while ago *here* , that to stop any of the three lamps (when replaced by LED) in the courtesy cabin light position from flickering, when operated by their individual switch (with doors shut - ignition key in ignition) - you need to add a resive load across each LED (presuming they don't have one internally fitted). Not doing so will cause flickering of that individual light when operated by its individual switch.

A resistor value of 330 ohm 2 Watt seems ideal to fool the load sensing to apply power.Anything less than 500 ohms seems to work but if you go too low the current and power will increase and the resistor will get hot. Watts (W) = V^2/R , so if 12V 330 ohms will only be dissipating 0.44 W and a worst case 14.5 V gives 0.63 W so you could even get away with a 1 W resistor. The 2W, PRO2 series available from Farnell is a compact size and only costs 7.2p each: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-compone ... dp/4983725

You can get away with not fitting resistors to the map lights if you only operate the main courtesy light switch because it and the map lights all come on together so the load sensing is shared. Operated individually, the map lights will flicker though if they don't have their own resistor.

The map lights are reverse polarity to the front sidelight lamps which are the same offset pin fitting, so be careful you get the right ones.

The load sensing on the TT courtesy and map lights is a little odd. I can understand the central locking controller detecting failure and giving a warning but only applying power IF the switch is operated AND a bulb is detected i.e. NOT applying full power if there is no load seems a little pointless. Why not apply power as nothing will happen? The only reason I can think of is not to apply full power in case of a short circuit which may blow a fuse and take out the controller, so possibly it doeas a little test signal first to see if it's safe to apply power. :wink:

Fittig LED brake lights is more difficult due to the higher load I think, although I've not tested. I knew someone who fitted them but had problems with resistors of high enough wattage and required a heat sink. Their reliability vs advantage starts to come into question. You could fit the double brake light mod and fit one LED lamp, using the other conventional lamp as load to sense. Personally I'd get rid of brake light tinting as it also inhibits your reflectors for safe parking at night.


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Thanks for your input uv101
> 
> TTdaz, could you upload the video of you demonstrating the map lights working independently please ? Door closed, courtesy period over, light unit switch selector set in the middle and map lights individually turned on (not with the centre light).
> Cheers.


Here is the video i took, (filmed it twice without it being on record lol "TWICE" :lol: )


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

John-H said:


> I can confirm from some work I did a while ago *here* , that to stop any of the three lamps (when replaced by LED) in the courtesy cabin light position from flickering, when operated by their individual switch (with doors shut - ignition key in ignition) - you need to add a resive load across each LED (presuming they don't have one internally fitted). Not doing so will cause flickering of that individual light when operated by its individual switch.
> 
> A resistor value of 330 ohm 2 Watt seems ideal to fool the load sensing to apply power.Anything less than 500 ohms seems to work but if you go too low the current and power will increase and the resistor will get hot. Watts (W) = V^2/R , so if 12V 330 ohms will only be dissipating 0.44 W and a worst case 14.5 V gives 0.63 W so you could even get away with a 1 W resistor. The 2W, PRO2 series available from Farnell is a compact size and only costs 7.2p each: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-compone ... dp/4983725
> 
> ...


Are you saying the front sidelights are also reverse polarity and the same fitting as the map lights. 
I have fitted led sidelight, I didnt change the polarity and also they are offset 150degree fiting where as the map lights are plain 180 degree pin bayonet!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hi daz - that video seems pretty conclusive to me. They seem to work exactly as they should.
Thanks for taking the time to shoot and upload that ;-)
Can you just confirm that the led map lights (ba9s) and the centre light you linked to earlier - are the exact ones you have fitted (except of course that you have soldered the ba9s to revers polarity) ? And confirm that you REMOVED the resistors that you soldered in originally ? Just don't want to miss anything !
The map lights, as you've said to John, are indeed ba9s and the sidelights are bax9s (offset pins) - correct ;-)

John-H - thanks for your input 
The "here" link you provided isn't working ?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

That's funny - the link works for me. Here it is in its raw form:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80223&p=876952

Just to be clear; the map lights need to have the opposite polarity of electrical connection to the front sidelights - in reference to the centre pip and body contacts - despite them being of a similar looking mechanical fitting.


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

mullum said:


> Hi daz - that video seems pretty conclusive to me. They seem to work exactly as they should.
> Thanks for taking the time to shoot and upload that ;-)
> Can you just confirm that the led map lights (ba9s) and the centre light you linked to earlier - are the exact ones you have fitted (except of course that you have soldered the ba9s to revers polarity) ? And confirm that you REMOVED the resistors that you soldered in originally ? Just don't want to miss anything !
> The map lights, as you've said to John, are indeed ba9s and the sidelights are bax9s (offset pins) - correct ;-)
> ...


Hi mullum,
Yes the map lights are the ones i linked previous (ba9s) with the polarity changes around and with no added resistors to the unit.
The centre light is indeed the one i linked earlier (42mm festoon) also no added resitors!
Hope this helps you out buddy and anyone else trying to sort their lights out [smiley=dude.gif]


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Thanks John, had a read - nothing I hadn't discovered but a lot of detail 

Any idea about the roadster ? What with it only having the 2 map lights ? I'd imagine they'd require reverse polarity and resistors ...


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## TTdaz (Dec 19, 2013)

John-H said:


> That's funny - the link works for me. Here it is in its raw form:
> 
> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80223&p=876952
> 
> Just to be clear; the map lights need to have the opposite polarity of electrical connection to the front sidelights - in reference to the centre pip and body contacts - despite them being of a similar looking mechanical fitting.


As far as i know the pins on any bayonet are only for the diff fittings!. becaus the botton nipple thing is one connection and the whole body (cap) is another, I.e both pins are one connection. 
I think (correct me if im wrong) all leds come with the bottom as pos and the cap as neg, The opposite to the map lights!, Hence the polarity change needed.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

TTdaz said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > That's funny - the link works for me. Here it is in its raw form:
> ...


When I said "contacts" I was referring to the end pip being one and the body being the other. The "pins" are welded to the body and are electrically the same as the body. LED lamps may generally be one convention in polarity but as we know that is not always the case.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Ok so I have attempted this again (Soldering the provided resistors)
After blowing 3 fuses in the process the resistors got very hot and started smoking. Then popped.

What resistors do I actually need to get the centre and map lights working as OEM with LED's?

Or would these 'Error' free ones work:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-NEW-WHIT ... 4619717ae3


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

John as you say "provided " I assume these resistors are from me ?


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

mullum said:


> John are these resistors from me ?


Yeah same ones i used before..


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

The ones you've linked to say "This bulb may show an error on the dashboard.
To solve this problem you need to add an appropriate resistor."

Not that you'll ever get a dash warning from the centre lights - but it does suggest there's no resistor built in. Might be worth emailing them and asking if the bulbs have "reverse or no polarity" though. Daz has said that the bulbs he bought, worked correctly without resistors - but only after he soldered them to be reverse polarity.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

mullum said:


> The ones you've linked to say "This bulb may show an error on the dashboard.
> To solve this problem you need to add an appropriate resistor."
> 
> Not that you'll ever get a dash warning from the centre lights - but if does suggest there's no resistor built in. Might be worth emailing them and asking if they have "reverse or no polarity" though. Daz has said that the bulbs he bought, worked correctly without resistors but after he soldered them to be reverse polarity.


Ok.. How do i do the 'reverse polarity' thing?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

He posted details earlier in the thread. But you'd need the exact same bulbs as he bought.
The ones I provided are "no polarity". So they don't require "reversing".

The only possible explanation is that the bulbs he bought have a resistor built in. But we don't know.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

So rather than continuing to supply map light LEDs which require resistors soldering into the light unit (for them to work the same as standard bulbs after the courtesy period) I decided to look for bulbs which would do the same job.
As no bulbs are available on the market which have the correct specification - I had some manufactured 

I've made them available in the marketplace (links in the first post of this thread) along with a whole range of other interior and exterior LEDs for the MK1 Coupe and Roadster.


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## redhoTT225 (Nov 8, 2013)

Hi Everyone

I am doing the rear light symmetry mod at the moment.
All has gone OK but the drivers side rear cluster is from the USA so the lens is very red in front of the indicator bulbs to conform with US law that the indicator should be red.

Thinking of a way round this, and I was going down the road of LED upgrades anyway, I thought that a good amber LED bulb would still show amber even through the red lens. So I bought these which say they have a built in resistor.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-CANBUS-ER ... OC:GB:3160

They do indeed have a great amber light through the US rear light BUT....
....they are blinking far too fast so I have till I find a solution resorted to putting the original cluster back on.

My question is:- Is there a simple solution without going the way of soldering resistors. The bulbs are excellent 
and throw no errors.

Cheers

Mike [smiley=book2.gif]


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hi Mike
Did you replace all 4 bulbs in both of the rear indicators or just the 2 on the one side ? (The listing is for 2 bulbs).

The bulbs you bought should work in terms of them having resistors and if they don't you should return them if possible.
Should you be unable to use that cluster perhaps you might do a cluster swap with me ?


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## Lollypop86 (Oct 26, 2013)

Admin wouldnt this be better as a sticky so people can see it at the top rather than trying to search for it?

J
xx


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## redhoTT225 (Nov 8, 2013)

mullum said:


> Hi Mike
> Did you replace all 4 bulbs in both of the rear indicators or just the 2 on the one side ? (The listing is for 2 bulbs).
> 
> The bulbs you bought should work in terms of them having resistors and if they don't you should return them if possible.
> Should you be unable to use that cluster perhaps you might do a cluster swap with me ?


Hi

No I just replaced the two in the US cluster to make sure that the amber was showing through well.

I have got all four. Are you saying that if I put all four in then it ought ot work Ok ??

Thanks

Mike


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## redhoTT225 (Nov 8, 2013)

Have now tried all four bulbs in with the same result.

When hazard light switched on the flashing rate is normal but way too fast on indicators.

Are either of these the answer ?

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Re ... -pair.html

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Flasher-Unit.html

Any help much appreciated

Thanks again

Mike :?


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## trayner (Apr 5, 2012)

sorry to jump on the tread but I've only had my TT a short time & wanted to do the break light mod. does anyone know where i can get the small bit of metal that a member was supplying a while back? i contacted bob but he can't get them anymore&#8230;

also my bulbs are on the way out i think as i keep getting a warning? is it just replacement of the same bulb or is it worth putting LEDs in there? is it possible?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

The metal for the double brake light mod can be obtained from old light clusters from I think it's golfs ? Do a search on here, you'll find it.
Normal LEDs can't typically be fitted to the tail or brake lights (without errors), nor the indicators, without some modification (resistors). 
I will be testing some specially designed led bulbs very soon and will be reporting back.


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## smiddy (Jan 18, 2015)

Hi mullum, I'm interested in a set of side lights and number plate lights but can't pm. Please can you pm me a price for these or even better email me? [email protected] thanks!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Pm sent


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

New stock has arrived, including brand new CREE map lights! These things are like laser beams  Pictures are with the light diffuser removed so you can get a better idea ...

CREE :










SMD :










Bare in mind that the SMD are MUCH brighter than standard bulbs, and illuminate the cabin very well (along with the brand new COB centre light I now supply). The CREE bulbs will come in handy for those who want big illumination or sometimes need to read at night. 
I also have a MEGA bright centre light ( see image below), but the colour temperature is slightly bluer than the map lights. Available on request ;-)










Before running off to ebay looking for some - there are NO led map light bulbs available anywhere in the world that work properly! Only these *custom made* bulbs work correctly ;-)


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## burtz (Sep 7, 2015)

Great thread. Quick question - number plate light bulbs, which type are they?


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