# Adding a subwoofer? Or rear speakers?



## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Hi, as the title suggests, I’m looking at maybe getting some extra sound in my car, unfortunately, I have the basic Audi sound system in my car, front speakers only.

I was thinking about installing rear speakers but I don’t think it’s possible. (If it is I would for love some ideas) 

Does anyone know is it possible to get a subwoofer fitted to me car and if so, where would you splice into the original audio speakers to get the feed for the subwoofer?

Also would anyone recommend a unit that would work for my car?


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## Trees (5 mo ago)

Look up car audio wire tap. And you'll splice into one of your rear speakers.


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## Gnasher (Oct 21, 2020)

It does make me laugh that Audi scrimp so much on an otherwise premium car - I'd have thought the ASS was the minimum you would want in a TT.

You'd need to tap into your front speaker feeds (probably easiest behind the glove box as that's the only spot they're all in the same place) and then running them to the powered sub etc. If you are in any way not 100% sure what you're doing, take it to a decent in car audio installer to get it done.


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Thx guys for replying.

Is there any point trying to install speakers in the back of the car? I suppose the headunit has to be fit to have a rear speaker outlet. I'm not sure which one I actually have though. I got the Sat Nav and Apple Carplay enabled and the guy doing it was surprised that the logo for Carplay appeared on the main menu. He assumed i would have to go into the connection wizard every time.

My car was manufactured in October 2015 if that's any help. I suppose, really, the only to know what hardware version my head unit is, would be to take it out and get the hardware model type from the written spec on the back of the unit. (Is there any other way to get the hardware spec of the unit?) 

I don't have the wee key yokes to remove the unit, although they aren't that expensive.

Thx guys... And yes i agree the basic Audio setup in the TT is proper rubbish.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

I was looking at the audison APBX10 AS2 powered sub. The shop I had spoke to talked about splicing from the rear speakers (as I’m lucky enough to have them) but as Gnasher said you could do it from the front set. You could have it in the boot Velcrod/strapped or under the floor, though you may have to raise the floor a bit unless you go for a passive one? Costs wise the powered one is about £550 and the shop I went to would fit it all professionally for a further £150 ish. To change the speakers and add rear ones most audio shops would probably advise an amp as well to get the most out of them. Then you’d want sound deadening. Your prob doubling plus plus the standalone powered amp cost then. See the pics below on potential solutions -


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## Gnasher (Oct 21, 2020)

I started off "Just adding a bit of bass and a clearer top end with replacing speakers" and had a bit of mission creep as seen below lol.

As "Micheal Knight" posted above, there are a few options available to you, namely (and in order of increasing costs and hopeful sound quality)

1. Add a powered subwoofer tapped off the front speakers (or if your current head unit is able to, off the rear speaker outputs).
2. Add a passive subwoofer, replacement front speakers and a 4 channel amplifier (2 channels bridged for the sub).
3. Add a passive subwoofer, replacement front speakers and new rear speakers and a 5 channel amplifier.

Now I did the third option above - and a little further with the 2nd subwoofer, but (strictly speaking) only because the car already had rear speakers and I enjoy building boot installs. If it were me and I didn't have rear speakers, I'd have gone for the second option and left it at that - I think it would be the best compromise of sound quality and overall costs..


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## simon3868 (Feb 26, 2011)

I fitted a powered subwoofer to a previous TT with the standard audio and it made a tremendous difference with a relatively small outlay. Connection was via the glovebox area and it is fiddly, but doable by anyone with a bit of patience and time. Good luck!


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Thx guys for all your help and advice, i might go down the route of installing the rear speakers first, I've found a pair with speakers included. I just need to make sure my MIB2 can support rear speakers first... (Maybe all Mib2 do?) I will then look about getting a subwoofer installed as well.

I need to get the removal keys to get the MIB out of the glovebox so i can check the spec and model number of the unit and then google the specs.

You would think a premium car would come with a premium sound system as a standard lol


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## huddott (Sep 1, 2014)

Interesting thread, I’ve only had my car (Mk3 2015 S-line Quattro 2.0) and it seems mine has only the basic system fitted (no rear speakers and no fader). So I’m thinking powered sub and upgrading front speakers.


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Hi guys, been playing with options and pricing what I can. Have ordered the keys to remove the head unit and when I get it out, I should be able to get the model number off the back of it. 

My system is the head unit with the DVD player built in so I’m assuming it should be able to allow me to add rear speakers. 

I was only going to install a powered sub but if I’m gonna have to install wire going to the subwoofer, I may as well try and get the wiring to the rear of the car and stick speakers in as well.

I bit the bullet and paid for time in the Audi Erwin system and downloaded everything I could relating to me car.
I just need to take the time and digest it as best I can and see where that leaves me.

Im kinda shocked, tbh, that there are virtually no videos of people adding additional speakers or making changes to their Mk3 TTs Audio setups on YouTube.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Tell me about it, I was very disappointed about the lack of info/vids on DIY upgrades. Mark 1 & 2 yes, Mark 3 no.
The following is helpful for removing front door card but isn’t speaker specific. Still at least you’ll be able to get to see the front setup for people wanting to change those.









How to remove a mk3 door card


Thought I'd post a how to for anyone needing to remove a mk3 door card to carry out any mods such as adding B&O speaker, puddle lights, folding mirrors etc, I have taken pictures of the steps I followed but would not have been able to attempt this without the help of ManuTT who was kind enough...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Found these pics on eBay, not the clearest setup on the rear of the unit and the blanked out plates, are they potential rear speaker outputs for the cars that have got them?


















Also found this thread which has some very helpful info on upgrading speakers inc rear -

2016 TTS Speaker Upgrade - AudiWorld Forums


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## Barmybob (Nov 4, 2015)

MK3 Audi TT Audio / Speaker Upgrade | Custom Fabrication and Tuning – Studio Incar


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Hi Guys, another quick question.

If anyone knows, how hard would it be to bring 4 speaker wires from the back of the headunit to the back speaker panels? and would it be easier to route all four down the passenger side and then route the remaining two to the drivers side?


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Have bought some door card removal bits inc a clip spreader tool to make life easier gaining access to mine plus some sound deadening sheeting and roadkill fast foam rings. I’m gonna install those bits initially plus I’ll be able to see exactly what I’ve got installed in the car. For all I know someone could have already tried to upgrade something so it’s worth a look.
Gladminds would you be able to take a photo of the back of your head unit where your going to attach your speaker wiring and any other helpful info/pics adding your back speakers? It would be good to have all the upgrading speakers info in one thread as at the moment it’s scattered about the site. This will no doubt always be a recurring issue for new owners.
Cheers


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Micheal Knight said:


> Have bought some door card removal bits inc a clip spreader tool to make life easier gaining access to mine plus some sound deadening sheeting and roadkill fast foam rings. I’m gonna install those bits initially plus I’ll be able to see exactly what I’ve got installed in the car. For all I know someone could have already tried to upgrade something so it’s worth a look.
> Gladminds would you be able to take a photo of the back of your head unit where your going to attach your speaker wiring and any other helpful info/pics adding your back speakers? It would be good to have all the upgrading speakers info in one thread as at the moment it’s scattered about the site. This will no doubt always be a recurring issue for new owners.
> Cheers


Hi, i've taken a pic of the back of the head unit and have worked out via the Erwin Audi docs that the pin outs are as follows on the attached pic.
Just need to work out the correct polarity for either side. I've marked up the pins, as i understand them, from the Erwin docs

Mine has the plain wire (Positive?) in pin 2 and pin 6 and the stripped wire (negative?) in pin 3 and pin 7 which is feeding the front speakers.
The pins are there for the rears, I just need to connect one of them up and hope i don't need to get someone to activate it via Vcp or Odis.

Does anyone know what gauge of speaker cable do i need?


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Re the wiring, got this from Crutchfield site -

*What size speaker wire do I need?*
The signal and power coming out of your amplifier must not be impeded on their way to your speakers and subs. When you replace or run new speaker wiring, we recommend using: 

18-, 16-, or 14-gauge wires for speakers
16-, 14-, or 12-gauge wires for subwoofers
As with the power wire, the longer the run and the more current you're pushing through it, the larger size you should use. For example, if your amp is in the trunk and you're sending 100 watts to your front speakers, 14-gauge speaker wire is a good call. But if the amp is only 50 watts, 16-gauge would be fine.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Gladminds I have spoken to this company today -









SCR DISTRIBUTION


SCR DISTRIBUTION, DISTRIBUTOR OF HIGH QUALITY CAR AUDIO PRODUCTS




www.skiptoncarradio.com





They state that they have all the adapters, wiring connections etc needed for plug and play type solutions for a TT mk3 audio upgrade. Give them a ring and ask for Peter. As long as you’ve taken the area apart and know exactly what you’ve got/or haven’t they should be able to help.

my trim removal kit should be here by the weekend so once mines apart I can order what I need. Now we’re getting somewhere!


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Micheal Knight said:


> Re the wiring, got this from Crutchfield site -
> 
> *What size speaker wire do I need?*
> The signal and power coming out of your amplifier must not be impeded on their way to your speakers and subs. When you replace or run new speaker wiring, we recommend using:
> ...


That's brilliant information. Id imagine the 18 Gauge wire would be the best as it would be slightly thinner and easier to thread towards the back of the car?


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Gladminds said:


> Hi, i've taken a pic of the back of the head unit and have worked out via the Erwin Audi docs that the pin outs are as follows on the attached pic.
> Just need to work out the correct polarity for either side. I've marked up the pins, as i understand them, from the Erwin docs
> 
> Mine has the plain wire (Positive?) in pin 2 and pin 6 and the stripped wire (negative?) in pin 3 and pin 7 which is feeding the front speakers.
> ...


Hi Guys, does anyone know where would be best to get a 12V feed for my powered sub I've bought, the wiring kits suggests connecting directly to the battery, but the only issue i have with this is that means there will be a positive supply to the sub at all times. 

I know the sub will switch off without an input but I'd rather have a solution, that when the car is off and locked the sub is off also. Is their a positive feed off the back of the Mib or can i tap the battery feed to the Mib for the sub? My Sub pulls a load of 8.5 Amps @ maximum current consumption. 
Does anyone think this is possible?

Plus I've heard horror stories that when you disconnect the battery the car doesn't respond very well after, i cant see that being the case, what happens when you change a battery?

In other news, i have just received my speaker wire, trim removal tools, crimp Tool and Spade connections and have the rear speakers ready to install. I'm off next week so I think I'll tackle this on one of those days.

I'll take as many pics as i can...


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

When I was chatting to the local audio shop about a powered sub in the boot, they said that they would go straight to the battery as it s practically next to it. If ever I’ve had to disconnect a car battery in the past I always check the alarm/immobiliser/keyfob all work and then briefly check the audio settings and other personalised bits, maybe the individual drive select etc. I wouldn’t worry about it though as like you said u have to change batteries sometime.
I asked about the auto on/off and he said said the Audison one I was querying would work like that (off the rear speaker wired into high level on the sub). What sub you gone for and where you going to install it?
The clip spreader tool that came with my trim removal kit, I never did get to use it as to get enough space to slide it in the clips had already popped out. To get the front door card off was straightforward enough though, nothing broken and reinstalled after sound deadening and measuring etc perfectly. Just the back area to sort out now.


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Micheal Knight said:


> When I was chatting to the local audio shop about a powered sub in the boot, they said that they would go straight to the battery as it s practically next to it. If ever I’ve had to disconnect a car battery in the past I always check the alarm/immobiliser/keyfob all work and then briefly check the audio settings and other personalised bits, maybe the individual drive select etc. I wouldn’t worry about it though as like you said u have to change batteries sometime.
> I asked about the auto on/off and he said said the Audison one I was querying would work like that (off the rear speaker wired into high level on the sub). What sub you gone for and where you going to install it?
> The clip spreader tool that came with my trim removal kit, I never did get to use it as to get enough space to slide it in the clips had already popped out. To get the front door card off was straightforward enough though, nothing broken and reinstalled after sound deadening and measuring etc perfectly. Just the back area to sort out now.


Hi, I got a cracking deal on an InPhase Usw300 from Amazon, was only £115 and i thought I’d try it out and if it works out I will probably upgrade it down the line.

i did a dry install today and was able to put it quite snugly under the passenger seat but when the seat was pushed back the bar at the front was catching on the front of it ever so slightly and I think I talked myself out of installing there.

it does also fit into the recess in the carpet on the floor in the back of the car and it is entirely made of aluminium so it should-be ok.

but I think I’ve decided to fit it in the boot, it does fit quite happily under the cover on the boot.

ive been researching the live 12v feeds in the car to try and decide if I can connect the sub to a feed that stops working when the car is locked.

Im not sure how im gonna install it and as you say, with the battery so close it would be a shame not to make use of the handiness of a quick and painless install. But part of me would hope to be able to catch a positive feed for the sub somewhere in the car, just for peace of mind


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## b1ggles (6 mo ago)

Gladminds said:


> Im not sure how im gonna install it and as you say, with the battery so close it would be a shame not to make use of the handiness of a quick and painless install. But part of me would hope to be able to catch a positive feed for the sub somewhere in the car, just for peace of mind


Is there not a fusebox right next to the MIB?


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

b1ggles said:


> Is there not a fusebox right next to the MIB?


Hi, I actually think I’ve figured out the live feeds into the MIB, so my question would be, can I tap the live 12v supply there and if so, that should enable the power to the sub to be switched off automatically with the Mib?


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## b1ggles (6 mo ago)

Gladminds said:


> Hi, I actually think I’ve figured out the live feeds into the MIB, so my question would be, can I tap the live 12v supply there and if so, that should enable the power to the sub to be switched off automatically with the Mib?


Personally wouldn't, you said sub has 8.5A max draw, so that on top of what the MIB likely wants is probably more than the fuse on the end will take. 

Fuse box is definitely your best choice if you want it switchable, as it doesn't sound like you have a lot of options you shouldn't have much trouble finding a suitable vacant connection there. Use a fuse tap to make life easy, couple of quid from ebay, this explains them...


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

b1ggles said:


> Personally wouldn't, you said sub has 8.5A max draw, so that on top of what the MIB likely wants is probably more than the fuse on the end will take.
> 
> Fuse box is definitely your best choice if you want it switchable, as it doesn't sound like you have a lot of options you shouldn't have much trouble finding a suitable vacant connection there. Use a fuse tap to make life easy, couple of quid from ebay, this explains them...


HI, just had another check and looks like i could probably tap into the 12v outlet in the back seat of the car, it looks to be attached to a 20amp fuse. 
If the max consumption is 8.5amps and i dont use the 12v socket for anything else could this be a possibility? 

I do probably have empty fuses in the car which i will look into this afternoon.

Thx for the advice B1ggles


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Gladminds said:


> Hi Guys, does anyone know where would be best to get a 12V feed for my powered sub I've bought, the wiring kits suggests connecting directly to the battery, but the only issue i have with this is that means there will be a positive supply to the sub at all times.
> 
> I know the sub will switch off without an input but I'd rather have a solution, that when the car is off and locked the sub is off also. Is their a positive feed off the back of the Mib or can i tap the battery feed to the Mib for the sub? My Sub pulls a load of 8.5 Amps @ maximum current consumption.
> Does anyone think this is possible?
> ...


Hi guys, well I got the rear speakers installed today and to my great delight it only took most of the day lol.

I never managed to get the clip for the speaker connection so I ended up fabricating my own, it actually worked out really well for me. Unfortunately my phone died and I never got to charge it all day so I’m a bit picture-lite.

I was lucky enough to be able to get speaker pin connections for the wiring harness and then I was able to fit them into the empty positions on the back of the speaker out connections on the speaker module on quad lock.

The pin connections came with 8 pin modules, I was able to cut them down and retrofit them to use as the main speaker connections and then I soldiered the wires to the tweeters connections.

I bought some 16Awg speaker cable from Amazon and got to work. I removed all the panels from the car which actually didn’t take long, I was careful about finding the metal clips and taking them off and sliding them back into the slots in the plastic panels.

I cable-tied the new speaker wires as I went too the existing cable connection, trying to keep everything as tidy as I could manage.

The sound from the rear speakers is awesome, the bass sounds much better already.

One think I have noticed is I don’t have the option in my stereo to fade from front to back, I can still fade left and right and it works a treat but I think I might need someone to add a data set to enable that function?

Whilst I had the rear bench and rear panels off I connected up the high level wires to the rear speakers for the powered subwoofer.

At this stage it was getting dark and I needed to call it a day.

I tried to put the rear bench back in and I couldn’t get it to fit properly. It might be just be mental fatigue and failing light… lol 
Is there any technique to putting the rear bench back in again ?

Also any tips about where I should connect the remote turn on wire?

The guys


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

I took my back panel area apart yesterday. Whereas the front door/card was straightforward I have to admit I found the back and sills a bit of a pain. I took pics as I went along so I’ll post the ones I thought would be helpful to others in a min. Great news your getting there gladminds.

re the bench at the back. To take it out you you have to pull them up at the front then make sure the isofix plastic covers are removed then the surrounding plastic parts around the isofix which have a groove channel in them are pressed/pulled to remove them completely.
To replace the benches make sure the metal bars either side at the back of the bench are under the metal bar parts under the bottom part of the upright part of the seats. U kind of have to angle them in and push up a bit. They should kind of clip in. Once there in you can press down on the front of the bench then clip the isofix parts in again. Also make sure the seatbelt female parts are angled up From what I remember. Hopefully that will make sense!
what speakers did u put in the back and how did u get the mount etc? Or did u go for the stock speakers/mount?


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

For the front doors this was my setup. The flat piece and the raised speaker mount which from what I’ve read can take a 6.5” or possible even an 8” woofer with appropriate mount/adapter










The other setup is normally the enclosure rather than the flat piece and mount. That looks like this and in theory can take a 6.5” with no mods providing the speakers not too deep -


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

The rear setup is below -










You would need to replace that triangular shaped mount/adapter for an aftermarket speaker. That itself is in an enclosure which screws out so you can deaden the area behind it.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Some removal tips as I went along. The front doors are easy following the info in the post a few above. They use the quality plastic clips and as long as you take your time and use the trim removal tools all will be well. The clip spreader tool I didn’t get to try out as the wide flat trim remover made it easy to pop the clips without damage.

Re the rear panels, starting with the sills below the front doors u will need to use a fair amount of force to pull directly up to dislodge the metal clips (again with the trim removal tools to help)











To then remove the rear panel follow the order in this pic -









The metal clips used here can get stuck in the bodywork once the rear card area is removed so make sure you replace them all into their original location -


























The last 2 pics u can see where the metal clip got dislodged and stuck in its intended home


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Ive just got to wait and hear what options SCR can do with regards to plug and play for the front speakers. Since deadening all round, using foam rings and playing with the settings it sounds pretty good anyway. I won’t bother changing the rears as it’s a bit of a pain and they sound fine as they are. Just need a working car now to enjoy the sounds as waiting for the clutch to be sorted!


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Micheal Knight said:


> Ive just got to wait and hear what options SCR can do with regards to plug and play for the front speakers. Since deadening all round, using foam rings and playing with the settings it sounds pretty good anyway. I won’t bother changing the rears as it’s a bit of a pain and they sound fine as they are. Just need a working car now to enjoy the sounds as waiting for the clutch to be sorted!


Very detailed post  that’s honestly what I was expecting to add but as i said the phone went dead and I just charged on ahead and got the speakers fitted.
You asked about the brackets to hold the speakers, well I was surprised that the brackets are already there. Seems they are designed to hold the rear panels in place, they were just empty.

And since i had spent so much time the day before soldiering and retrofitting my eBay bought speakers I just removed the brackets and put the eBay ones on,








Above is a pic of the brackets I removed from my car, I just went for the stock speakers that came from a 2016 TT, they came supplied fitted to the brackets already.

With regard to refitting the rear bench, I took ur advice and managed it about 15 mins ago. Thx for that 🙏 ☺
Now I just need to decide how I’m gonna fit the subwoofer. I’ve the high level cables connected already but when looking at the battery this morning I hesitated and decided I didn’t want to risk disconnecting the battery for it to throw up errors on the display screen. Unfortunately I don’t have access to any device capable of resetting errors.

Again, looking at the battery I reckon I could keep it connected and use the lug nut at the positive terminal to directly connect the power to the sub.
With regard to the ground wire. Am I right in thinking that I could just attach that directly to the negative side of the battery? I might be wrong though so I’d like some advice if possible.

Plus, I’m still trying to figure out where I connect the remote on wire. I did talk to my Subwoofer support people and they stated that if I’m connecting using the high level wire it wasn’t strictly necessary to connect the remote wire.
Not sure how true that would be.
Any thoughts anyone?


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## Gladminds (Jan 22, 2021)

Gladminds said:


> Very detailed post  that’s honestly what I was expecting to add but as i said the phone went dead and I just charged on ahead and got the speakers fitted.
> You asked about the brackets to hold the speakers, well I was surprised that the brackets are already there. Seems they are designed to hold the rear panels in place, they were just empty.
> 
> And since i had spent so much time the day before soldiering and retrofitting my eBay bought speakers I just removed the brackets and put the eBay ones on,
> ...


Hi,

subwoofer installed and working as advertised. I connected the power cable to the battery terminal and connected the ground wire to a point on the rear passengers side of the boot on the wheel arch, looks to be with the wires for the rear lights. (I managed to do this slowly without disconnecting the battery)

Anyways, all is working ok and the sub seems to switching on using the high level inputs and switches off after about 2 mins when I switch off the car. 

I did connect up the remote cable to the positive wire on the 12v outlet on the centre console, hoping that it would enable the remote on and off but maybe with my sub, if I’m using the high level inputs the sub ignores that request?

I’m gonna order up a high level to RCA adaptor and see if that works. It’s important to me that the sub switches off and stays off.

Other than that, I’ve the sub sitting in the boot and when I managed to get it dialled in properly it really fills out the car with some nice bass.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

That’s great news. Interestingly I was watching some vids on high level to RCA adapters. There’s quite a difference in cost and by the look of this vid sound quality as well. Food for thought -






I’ve finally got off the fence and got my car booked in for an active audison sub and replacement speakers at the end of the month. I don’t mind going down the DIY route but my final choice wasn’t plug and play so I thought I’d give the wiring stress to an expert! I’ll let you know how I get on.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Sound deadened the boot area today in preparation for the sub being installed on the 30th. Certainly the easier of the sound deadening projects!


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## Gnasher (Oct 21, 2020)

Micheal Knight said:


> Sound deadened the boot area today in preparation for the sub being installed on the 30th. Certainly the easier of the sound deadening projects!
> 
> View attachment 491258


Nicely done - it's so much easier (and has very little effect on how well it works) to put it on in smaller sections.


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## JoeySussex (9 mo ago)

Am I the only one with this?


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

Joey, I take it that’s the B&O /ASS setup? What years your car? I believe that for the later cars the sub control seemed to have disappeared. I don’t know how true this is but I read this -

“Owners had been complaining about rattles and vibrations from the Rear of their cars and the root cause was “found” to be the subwoofer but instead of padding out and securing trims etc the official fix was.... “remove the ability to turn up the bass from new cars” and thus remove the issue” 🤔

Don’t know if the control disappeared/reappeared with MMI updates either? Interesting


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## JoeySussex (9 mo ago)

It B&O / 20th anniversary edition. 

I didn’t think it had a sub but seeing the in door main speakers compared to ASS - the difference was night and day. The ASS in door main speaker setup was just a speaker in a mount. The B&O main door speaker was a work of art - it was the whole with of the door and took up a lot of space. They are huge. I believe the sub is built in.


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## b1ggles (6 mo ago)

JoeySussex said:


> It B&O / 20th anniversary edition.
> 
> I didn’t think it had a sub but seeing the in door main speakers compared to ASS - the difference was night and day. The ASS in door main speaker setup was just a speaker in a mount. The B&O main door speaker was a work of art - it was the whole with of the door and took up a lot of space. They are huge. I believe the sub is built in.


The brochure, or at least one of them through the years, refers to the bottom two with the large enclosures as 'two subwoofers built-in to the doors'.


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## kevin#34 (Jan 8, 2019)

definitively no subwoofer on mk3 (if we mean a boxed single speaker dedicated to the 20-200 hz frequencies)


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## b1ggles (6 mo ago)

kevin#34 said:


> definitively no subwoofer on mk3 (if we mean a boxed single speaker dedicated to the 20-200 hz frequencies)


No factory car system digs that low, most half decent home theatre subs only get into the 20's, not down to it. No it doesn't have a single large speaker in the boot in the typical car sub format, what the TT does have is the two large sealed box units in the doors which are definitely subs in the same way the small units you get with satellite home systems are considered subs.

Sounds, no pun intended, like they used to be reasonably capable until neutered by a software update.


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## kevin#34 (Jan 8, 2019)

well, my old S3 was having what I call a proper sub (mono, and boxed), and the punch was well over the one mk3 B&O provides... and majority of people (including me) believe the TT B&O definitively lack bass...


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## b1ggles (6 mo ago)

kevin#34 said:


> well, my old S3 was having what I call a proper sub (mono, and boxed), and the punch was well over the one mk3 B&O provides... and majority of people (including me) believe the TT B&O definitively lack bass...


Don't recall saying it didn't


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## JoeySussex (9 mo ago)

I must be lucky. Any more bass and this car would take off. The TTRS in the showroom also had amazing bass.

I’ve been a keen house music fan for years so like decent bass and range. Or maybe I’m Just deaf.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

My audio has finally been upgraded! Went for a 3 way Audison prima APK163 install in the front, I left the rear speakers as they were and got an Audison APBX10 AS2 in the back. Well chuffed with the results. Sounds much clearer and the bass is now amazing. I haven’t pushed the system hard as I’ll run it in for the 30 hours or so they recommend.
I had it installed at Enhance car audio in Kent and they did a great job. I had already prepped the car with sound deadening and bought 2 mid speaker grills for the front as the factory mid covers were obviously solid. The sub was installed under the floor raising it slightly so no real loss of space either. All in all very pleased 👌









The codes for the grills are 8S0035410A and 8S0035409A








Fits beautifully with only the locking wheel nut that needed to be moved








The bass adjustment was mounted underneath the armrest








still plenty of space (for a TT)








In essence retaining that “stock look” as they say in the trade!






Car Audio, Stereo & Security Upgrades | Enhance - Kent


Bespoke Car Audio & Security Specialists in Kent - Pandora car alarms, witness camera, Apple CarPlay, Android Auto and much more...




caraudiokent.co.uk


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## huddott (Sep 1, 2014)

Micheal Knight said:


> My audio has finally been upgraded! Went for a 3 way Audison prima APK163 install in the front, I left the rear speakers as they were and got an Audison APBX10 AS2 in the back. Well chuffed with the results. Sounds much clearer and the bass is now amazing. I haven’t pushed the system hard as I’ll run it in for the 30 hours or so they recommend.
> I had it installed at Enhance car audio in Kent and they did a great job. I had already prepped the car with sound deadening and bought 2 mid speaker grills for the front as the factory mid covers were obviously solid. The sub was installed under the floor raising it slightly so no real loss of space either. All in all very pleased 👌
> 
> View attachment 492108
> ...


Very nice , what do you think to the powered sub ? Plenty of bass ? I like the fact it’s a self contained unit.


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## Micheal Knight (10 mo ago)

It’s a top bit of kit. Sounds amazing with plenty of bass and like u said it’s all in one so far simpler to install. Some people just have them Velcroed in the boot but the way I see it it’s never gonna be in the way under the flooring. Any decent car audio installer will thoroughly recommend them and reviews are always excellent.


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