# Gear Box Oil Change



## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

My TT is a May 2000 Quattro Coupe 225 (re-mapped APX). I've had it from new and the gear box oil has never been changed or checked for topping up. I'm getting the urge to change the oil due to it's age and mileage (over 8 years and 65,000). According to Audi there is no service interval for this and it's not recommended that the oil should be changed. I was even told that it was sealed for life, whatever that means. Seems odd to me that oil goes on forever!There are no visible leaks from the casing, so I assume it is still full.

I have no problems with the gear change/synchromesh or any aspect for that matter which makes me slightly nervous about changing the oil against Audi's recommendation. The same goes for the rear axle. I am hoping that someone would like to comment on this or tell me that they have changed the oil without any problems occurring later. If you did change, did you use the Audi recommended oil from the Audi stores?

Cheers

Joe


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## J55TTC (Apr 25, 2005)

Im unable to contribute anything meaningfull but you would have thought that over time the quality of the gearbox oil would degrade.

Audi's stance is that its "sealed for life" but what if the gearbox "went" and the reason for failure was oil related? I think we all know what their response would be - or lack of.


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## MCPaudiTT (Jan 17, 2007)

MANY people change the gearbox oil to improve shifter feel, with only positive effects. Here is my write-up:

http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_st ... ssion_oil/

I used Redline MT-90 to refill.

I also did the differential, using Audi-spec fluid:

http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_st ... al-oil-re/


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Nice write up and pics. Thanks for that. I have no problem with the shift feel but I would rather there were no filings kicking about :roll: Interesting that you have used Redline MT-90 for the gearbox and Audi OEM for the differential.

Cheers

Joe


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## XTR (Mar 2, 2006)

Joe... i changed it on my old TT 225. And it made a HUGE difference! So much so, its on my list of to-do's on the qS.


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Thanks for that too  Hope to see you on a 'cruise' some time. Take care.

Joe


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Craig

What oil did you put in the gearbox? Was it Redline MT90 or Audi OEM?

Joe


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## caney (Feb 5, 2004)

i use redline shock proof oil in mine,certainly made a difference


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## XTR (Mar 2, 2006)

TTCool said:


> Craig
> 
> What oil did you put in the gearbox? Was it Redline MT90 or Audi OEM?
> 
> Joe


I used some mobil1 stuff from OpieOils. Was about £10 per litre. Needed 3 bottles i think.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-806-mobilub ... r-oil.aspx


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## bigbison (Jul 31, 2007)

swap mine every year gearbox /transaxle /rear diff and haldex cheap than a gearbox or haldex thats my veiw any way cheers paul


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## HighTT (Feb 14, 2004)

A few years back my 'box developed a slight crunch going from 2nd to 3rd (when hot and driven hard).

I took it directly to a gearbox 'specialist' who had been recommended to me by one of the TT independent usual suspects.

He couldn't be sure of the cause (worn synchros or problem with selector fork) but he suggested changing the oil
in the first instance. He did this and all seemed fine.

Shortly after, I had cause to take the car back to the same TT independent. They got their wires crossed (from when I had first mentioned the gearbox problem to them) and changed my gearbox oil (yet again :roll: ).
They were mystified by the oil that the 'specialist' they had recommended had put in, saying that they thought it was ATF  
The gearbox oil that the TT independent used was Audi OEM ..... BUT, they said it was of a different spec to the OEM
that used to be used by Audi when my car was originally supplied (March 2001).

The upshot is that all this happened about three years ago and I've not had a crunch since  .

Joe - Why don't you ask the opinion of somebody (convincing) at Opie Oils?

BTW next month I'm off to Croft (for the first time) on an Alfa corporate Trackday - any tips please :?:


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## pinotattt (Oct 5, 2007)

HighTT said:


> A few years back my 'box developed a slight crunch going from 2nd to 3rd (when hot and driven hard).
> 
> I took it directly to a gearbox 'specialist' who had been recommended to me by one of the TT independent usual suspects.
> 
> ...


Hi,
Changed clutch to organic and having the same problem,  
What was the oil you used,Redline MT90 or Audi OEM :? :?:


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## Testarossa (Mar 8, 2006)

IM also intrested in doing this. How much would I look to pay for it to get done ?


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## amiTT (Jul 24, 2007)

I got my gearbox oil done a couple weeks back, along with my haldex service, was another £78 on top for that... Made a huge difference!


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## chrishTT (May 14, 2006)

how much is that tool for putting in the oil?


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## ivandrago24 (Jul 18, 2008)

Where can i get a gearbox oil change, im in the south east? thanks


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Hi Joe,

You'll have to try it and see. Supposedly it doesn't degrade, unlike engine oil, as there's no high temperatures or petrol and carbon contamination. It won't have viscosity improvers either which would degrade over time. The Audi stuff is synthetic, so again another reason why it's very stable and why they say it doesn't need replacing.

If you were having synchromesh problems it might have been worth trying a thicker oil with more drag on the synchro hubs but if you're not having a problem the case is less clear.

The main problem with these boxes is seepage leaks causing the level to drop over time. I had to top mine up a little the first time I looked but it's been fine since. Same with the rear diff oil. The bottles have a long spout and you can squash up the bottle to get it in.

The other non standard thing I remember you were trying was a change of spark plug. Did you ever try that?

Regards,
John


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

Changed mine when I did the clutch.
Used Opie oils, 2.6L at £35 of their recommended oil: Fuchs Silkolene, Silktran Syn 5. Its API GL4/5 SAE 75w/90.Synthetic Gear oil for high outputs and hypoid applications.
As said before, Audi say it never needs changing, but my plug was magnetic and when I removed it I was suprised by all the stuff stuck to it and the oil was more like diesel engine oil.
No I cant tell any difference other than it goes in gear and drives well, now that the clutch works 

Actually, in the cold and from cold, it is slightly notchy going in 1st/2nd, but think that is due to my trial and error method of setting the selector mechanism at the time and never going back to perfect it.

Simon


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Hi John

I didn't change the gearbox oil as I have no problem with the box. I did change the plugs to the Iridium type and have had no problem with them. In fact I have to say that they do what it says on the 'tin' 

Joe


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

TTCool said:


> Hi John
> 
> I didn't change the gearbox oil as I have no problem with the box. I did change the plugs to the Iridium type and have had no problem with them. In fact I have to say that they do what it says on the 'tin'
> 
> Joe


Hi Joe,

Did the Iridium type produce any more power or was it not noticeable? They have a thinner tip I seem to remember, so the spark would tend to be stronger - a little like a higher voltage spark, which some recon gives more power. It may not produce any gain in normal conditions but may cover for times when the spark would otherwise be too weak. I know a weak spark can cause incomplete burn, like when your coilpack is on it's way out, which is the opposite condition of course.

John


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## tcc88 (Aug 23, 2009)

So where do you get the cylinder shapped tool for putting the oil in, or do you not need it?


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## scott_159 (Jan 23, 2009)

machine mart do them :wink:

there caled oil suction pumps


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## rapid225 (May 30, 2009)

^^ tool on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Oil-Suctio ... 2303f402cf


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## Jurpo (Jun 24, 2009)

Oem gearbox oil is very thin. Redline MT-90 is lot thicker,thinner MTL is also thicker.
I did try MT-90 it was too thick for my short drive to work. 0c Temperature.

If Transfer box is drained it needs to be filled in certain way.
- Fill gearbox,drive car about 500m (Front wheels must rotate to fill it up)
- Fill again.

Audi says it is for life time. Life time for Audi might be 150k km.


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## scott_159 (Jan 23, 2009)

motul 300v comptision for me in diff and box. no problems here 

made the box feel very very nice


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Crikey...I was just about to put up another post about what oil to use, other than OEM, when changing my gearbox oil  Nice reminder, chaps. Are there any other opinions out there before I make a final decision? The only reason I'm enquiring is because I assume my gear box gets stressed more than Audi would ordinarily expect and I want to have the most protection possible against failure.

Cheers

Joe


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## rapid225 (May 30, 2009)

so what is the actual grade of OEM gearbox oil?


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## Jurpo (Jun 24, 2009)

I think MTL gives more protection since it is thicker.
For big turbo single mass flywheel car MT-90. It does work well warmed up/in hotter climate.

I used OEM oil with RVS treatment.


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## les (Jul 24, 2006)

Thinking outside the box here but what about things like Slick 50 for grear boxes and Molyslip etc would they help smoother gear changes etc?

Quote 
"Slick 50 Manual Gearbox Treatment.
This works by bonding the specially processed Dupont Teflon P.T.F.E. to all metal parts in the manual gearbox, final drive or differential, thereby reducing friction. The smoother surfaces and increased power makes changing gear much smoother and easier. Slick 50 is compatible with all gearbox lubricants. Full instructions included. 
For MANUAL gearboxes only."

Snake Oil or good product to use? :?


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## anthony_m (Aug 28, 2008)

les said:


> Thinking outside the box here but what about things like Slick 50 for grear boxes and Molyslip etc would they help smoother gear changes etc?
> 
> Quote
> "Slick 50 Manual Gearbox Treatment.
> ...


i dont think its suitable for limited slip diffs though!
A...


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## Jurpo (Jun 24, 2009)

les said:


> Thinking outside the box here but what about things like Slick 50 for grear boxes and Molyslip etc would they help smoother gear changes etc?
> 
> Quote
> "Slick 50 Manual Gearbox Treatment.
> ...


Teflon does not bond to metal it is soft stuff that forms bigger teflon flakes,when squashed between gears.
When used in engine these flakes can plug oil pickup screen.

Try RVS if you want something extra.
I used it. No difference in synchromesh but shifter became easier to move.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

les said:


> Thinking outside the box here but what about things like Slick 50 for grear boxes and Molyslip etc would they help smoother gear changes etc?
> 
> Quote
> "Slick 50 Manual Gearbox Treatment.
> ...


Hisssssssssssssss.......


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## les (Jul 24, 2006)

John-H said:


> les said:
> 
> 
> > Thinking outside the box here but what about things like Slick 50 for grear boxes and Molyslip etc would they help smoother gear changes etc?
> ...


 You speak with venom John 
[smiley=oops.gif] [smiley=oops.gif] [smiley=mexicanwave.gif] [smiley=oops.gif]


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## tcc88 (Aug 23, 2009)

According to a Garage its the gearbox. But they priced up new units before even checking the oil level which I found slightly worrying, they then discovered the level was low and put about 0.5 of a litre in, the noise is about the same maybe fractionally quieter, although now the clutch feels ligher perhaps its in my head and havent driven it for a week.

He said its unlikely to fail completely just get marginally worse, not really fussed on changing it if I can help it

Any advice?


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

tcc88 said:


> According to a Garage its the gearbox. But they priced up new units before even checking the oil level which I found slightly worrying, they then discovered the level was low and put about 0.5 of a litre in, the noise is about the same maybe fractionally quieter, although now the clutch feels ligher perhaps its in my head and havent driven it for a week.
> 
> He said its unlikely to fail completely just get marginally worse, not really fussed on changing it if I can help it
> 
> Any advice?


Hi folks,

Conscious that this post is old but would like to get any input/advice before I do anything. Here's my situation:

I have a 04 TTC 1.8 Quattro manual and I get a whining noise when changing from 2nd to 3rd and to 4th. Also when decelerating/slowing down. No noise on acceleration and from 1st to 2nd, 4th to 5th and 6th. I've also noticed that when it's cold/in the morning the noise is more audible but in the afternoon when it has warmed up a bit there is very little noise.

I tested it with a friend last week and we heard the noise also out of gear. He suggested that it might be the transfer box. I just booked it in for a full service today at the Audi Service Center and requested them to do the Haldex oil and filter + the gearbox oil and help diagnose the issue. Apparently one of the mechanics told the service advisor that this might not fix the issue and that there may be an issue with the gearbox which might need to be stripped. I really don't want to get into opening the gearbox as I know this will cost me a fortune with them. They've already taken €1400 from me for other stuff they've found with the car.

I just picked up the car from Audi Center and unfortunately the oil changes did not solve the issue. I manage to speak to the mechanic and he said it's most likely that a bearing has collapsed in the gearbox and will need to be opened and have a look but this will cost a fortune. Might be better off getting a second hand one and put it in. So, with the help of a friend I managed to find one with Traynors in N.I for €400. A couple of questions I have are:

1. Shall I bring it to a gearbox specialist to check it out.
2. And if it needs to be replaced do I just get the gearbox changed or will it be a be a good idea to get the transfer box changed as well.

Any other things I need to look for. Any Help or advice pleaseeeee!!!

Thanks again


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

New2AudiTT said:


> tcc88 said:
> 
> 
> > According to a Garage its the gearbox. But they priced up new units before even checking the oil level which I found slightly worrying, they then discovered the level was low and put about 0.5 of a litre in, the noise is about the same maybe fractionally quieter, although now the clutch feels ligher perhaps its in my head and havent driven it for a week.
> ...


First of all I'd stay well away from Audi!!, you are always going to pay top dollar for them to do anything to your car! Find a good reputable Audi independent specialist and get them to asses the situation for you then take it from there! Or at least take it to somebody who specialises in gearboxes to look at it for you. good luck!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If it's making noise in some gears and not others then it points to the gearbox and the transfer box is probably fine. Go to an independent that has dealt with TTs or Audis with Quattro before. Whilst the gearbox is off it's worth replacing the clutch friction plate and release bearing, possibly the pressure plate and hopefully the flywheel is Ok but take a view based on it's mileage and condition. The labour is not something you want to repeat soon.


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

John-H said:


> If it's making noise in some gears and not others then it points to the gearbox and the transfer box is probably fine. Go to an independent that has dealt with TTs or Audis with Quattro before. Whilst the gearbox is off it's worth replacing the clutch friction plate and release bearing, possibly the pressure plate and hopefully the flywheel is Ok but take a view based on it's mileage and condition. The labour is not something you want to repeat soon.


Hi John,

Appreciate the advice here. Just wondering if you could send me the part nos. for these and perhaps a link where I can find these parts. Am currently looking at http://www.micksgarage.ie/autoparts.asp ... 1&b=57&ga=

but it's all chinese to me. Am going to do the gearbox the following week.

Thanks again


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## anthony_m (Aug 28, 2008)

hi,
seen as your taking the box out and changing the clutch etc, it would also be worthwhile changing the clutch slave cylinder which is also situated within the clutch case/bell housing.
good luck with it.
Anthony.


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## landwomble (Feb 9, 2011)

TLR - what's the best gearbox oil to use?


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

anthony_m said:


> hi,
> seen as your taking the box out and changing the clutch etc, it would also be worthwhile changing the clutch slave cylinder which is also situated within the clutch case/bell housing.
> good luck with it.
> Anthony.


Hi Anthony & John,

Really appreciate the advice here gents. This issue is such a pain. Bought the car only a month ago from a private seller and he's not willing to take/share repsonsibility. So, ending up with all the costs myself. I guess I just have to do these things, move on and enjoy the car.

I went to meet the Audi mechanic who worked on my TT and I told him what I'm planning to do and he also mentioned that while doing the box to also check the clutch works/mechanisms. He said it's only a 15-20 mins job.

So, here's what am going to ask the guy who is going to do the gearbox to check with the clutch:

1. Clutch friction plate
2. Release bearing
3. Pressure Plate (is this the same as no. 1)
4. Fly wheel
5. Clutch slave cylinder which is also situated within the clutch case/bell housing.

I this list correct? and is there anything else I need to tell him before I call him

Please please please help.

cheers


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You are best asking Audi for the part numbers especially if they are supplying parts as any errors will be down to them but places like GSF do sell genuine OEM clutch parts that are the same as what you'll get off Audi only cheaper but of course GSF part numbers as they don't use the Audi numbers.

That list looks comprehensive and yes the pressure plate is different from the friction plate although they might come as a kit. The release bearing and slave cylinder are one unit. In terms of wear it's friction plate first followed by release bearing and pressure plate and lastly the flywheel. An experienced mechanic will be able to assess the clutch condition. He may need to take the assembly apart to fully inspect it. At least change the friction plate and release bearing I'd say unless they are relatively recent. The pressure plate can be checked for scoring and overheating, as can the flywheel. Often even for peace of mind you may want to change the pressure plate and especially if you have a remap as weak springs can cause slip with the extra torque. The Dual mass flywheel can also be checked for play and broken springs etc. For high mileage it may be safer to change it anyway. GSF I think can do the genuine LUK item for £250 or there abouts. Don't forget new stretch bolts for the sub frame, flywheel etc. - get them off Audi.


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## Debz (Jan 7, 2011)

Hi say this post and hope you can advice me, i have had loads of trouble with the clutch, not able to select gears, floppy pedal, AA been called out 3 times, been to an indi garage had it checked saying that it just needed clutch bleeding to find it only lasted 2 days? the AA men kept saying master or slave cylinder,,,to cut this short my car an 03 1.8 with 99,500 miles on is now in at Audi, they say the cylinders are ok and its the clutch etc.. gearbox is out and waiting for the parts to be fitted, thing is should i also get them to replace the slave cylinder as the bill is already at £1400 and i do not want this part to fail and have to pay for the gearbox removal again?

Debz


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Yes. It's advisable


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

John-H said:


> You are best asking Audi for the part numbers especially if they are supplying parts as any errors will be down to them but places like GSF do sell genuine OEM clutch parts that are the same as what you'll get off Audi only cheaper but of course GSF part numbers as they don't use the Audi numbers.
> 
> That list looks comprehensive and yes the pressure plate is different from the friction plate although they might come as a kit. The release bearing and slave cylinder are one unit. In terms of wear it's friction plate first followed by release bearing and pressure plate and lastly the flywheel. An experienced mechanic will be able to assess the clutch condition. He may need to take the assembly apart to fully inspect it. At least change the friction plate and release bearing I'd say unless they are relatively recent. The pressure plate can be checked for scoring and overheating, as can the flywheel. Often even for peace of mind you may want to change the pressure plate and especially if you have a remap as weak springs can cause slip with the extra torque. The Dual mass flywheel can also be checked for play and broken springs etc. For high mileage it may be safer to change it anyway. GSF I think can do the genuine LUK item for £250 or there abouts. Don't forget new stretch bolts for the sub frame, flywheel etc. - get them off Audi.


Really appreciate the advice John. Getting things organised for next week. Will let you know after all the works been done. GSF got a local branch here in Dublin and they've all parts for around €750. Gearbox and labour is coming to around €950.


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

New2AudiTT said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > You are best asking Audi for the part numbers especially if they are supplying parts as any errors will be down to them but places like GSF do sell genuine OEM clutch parts that are the same as what you'll get off Audi only cheaper but of course GSF part numbers as they don't use the Audi numbers.
> ...


Unfortunately, things didn't go as planned. The gearbox got delivered o.k and brought the car to the garage yesterday. Got a call from the mechanic today informing that the wrong gearbox was delivered as it is completely different from the one he removed from my car. He told me that the gearbox code on mine is FZP 22.09.03 (which I didn't even know existed) and the one supplied had an FMN code. So, I got onto Traynors straight away only to be told that they do not have the FZP one in stock but rather a DXW one which my mechanic confirmed is not going to be a fit. He suggested that he will strip my gearbox tomorrow and see if he can repair/recondition my one or get a reconditioned one for me. The good news apparently is that the clutch is in good condition. But my fear is that this is going to be a hefty bill.

Anybody here had similar experience and what would be the best course of action here.

Any advice much appreciated.

Thanks in advance


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Just for the record, I changed my gearbox oil using OEM product. As expected I didn't notice any difference since there was no problem with the gear change in the first place :roll: It simply made sense not leave the original oil in indefinitely.

Joe


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

New2AudiTT said:


> New2AudiTT said:
> 
> 
> > John-H said:
> ...


Just wanted to give some update on this guys. Got a call from the garage today saying that the car is ready for collection. They actually stripped the gearbox and re-built it. Bearings collapsed and there was some issues with the casing so they had to replace it as well. They said the gearbox is like new now and it's going to be €1200 please [smiley=bigcry.gif] with 6 months warranty. TBH am all excited to pick up tomorrow morning and check it out if it's all sorted. Will let you how I get on.

I'm getting the Cambelt kit and water pump done the following week. Was recomended to an Indy who gave a quote of €490. Audi centre here was looking for €741 :twisted:


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