# High mileage TT - things to look out for when buying



## Johnh_newbie (Dec 16, 2021)

Hi Everyone

I am new on here today..

I am in the process of trying to help my duaghter buy her first auto, petrol TT. She has up to £6K to spend..

I am sure it has been asked before, but can anyone please let me know what we whould look out for in terms of service requirements or potential faults on a car with around 100K miles?

Lots of adverts mention that cam belts have been replaced, so I guess that is important; but is there anything else my daughter and I need to check or be aware of?

Many thanks for any help or guidance you can provide.


Regards

John


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi John, Welcome to the TTF.
What Marque are you hoping to purchase Mk1 or 2?
Hoggy.


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## ldhartley (Dec 16, 2021)

Hoggy said:


> Hi John, Welcome to the TTF.
> What Marque are you hoping to purchase Mk1 or 2?
> Hoggy.


Hiya, the daughter here… looking to purchase a MK2 please!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ldhartley said:


> Hiya, the daughter here… looking to purchase a MK2 please!


Hi, Welcome, TTs can be cheap but are expensive to maintain so ensure you have spare cash left after the purchase.
My standard reply for would be MK2 owners
Common Mk2 probs, saggy leather seats, noisy/failing window regulators, knocking steering racks, bonnet opening lever snaps & poor connections to rear lights, making them dim or loss of lights.

DSG, Get it nice & hot, check there is no delay on pulling away & no juddering when traveling very slowly, reversing up an incline or pulling into parking spot etc. Expensive to repair, but probably no more than a manuals clutch.

Check thoroughly for any damp as drains block easily & any damp can cause future electrical prob.
There are many common places where water can get in & leaking windscreen seals are being reported recently.
Check the MK2 KB for water leak info.
Recent reports of rear chassis/floor corrosion,.
I will move the post into the MK2 section you should get more replies.
Hoggy.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Don't touch one that only has a 'stamped' history, go for one that has actual receipts. Insist on a long test drive also, at m'way speed if possible to make sure it hasn't got any vibration or shaking.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ * Johnh_newbie - *Welcome to the forum.  This post is worth a read -








FAQ - Mk2 Coupe & Roadster New User Information


Intended for new and potential Mk2 TT owners, these posts will provide you with some really good information on both the Coupe and Roadster to help you with topics such as factory specs, available options, potential mechanical or engine issues. As with any used car be sure to investigate the...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Molinos (May 19, 2021)

Welcome


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## Robw516 (Dec 15, 2021)

Beleive all Petrol models are chain driven, only the diesel have cams but I maybe wrong, sure more seasoned members would be able to say for sure.
However I personally recommend a chain driven model anyway.

When looking for DSG (Auto) model its really important to make sure its has the Hadex oil changes done which is not cheap. I also recommend making sure servicing in general been done by Audi or specialist. 
When looking at a high mileage model you want to try and find out if they are M/way miles or city miles. M/Way miles take far less wear on the engine. 
Hoggy already mentioned the main things to look out for.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Robw516 said:


> Beleive all Petrol models are chain driven, only the diesel have cams but I maybe wrong, sure more seasoned members would be able to say for sure.
> However I personally recommend a chain driven model anyway.
> 
> When looking for DSG (Auto) model its really important to make sure its has the Hadex oil changes done which is not cheap. I also recommend making sure servicing in general been done by Audi or specialist.
> ...


the ea113 (bwa) engines have cambelts, also it doesn't matter if it dsg as that has nothing to do with the haldex filter and oil changed it should be changed anyway but only quattro has a haldex but back to the dsg well s-tronic for audi yes make sure it has had it services when due.


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## Robw516 (Dec 15, 2021)

chrisj82 said:


> ged it should be


I do generally only look at DSG with AWD haha. I quietly forget you can get DSG in 2WD.


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## Jay225 (Sep 21, 2021)

Rufflesj said:


> Don't touch one that only has a 'stamped' history, go for one that has actual receipts. Insist on a long test drive also, at m'way speed if possible to make sure it hasn't got any vibration or shaking.


 I agree,,,
my first service book was misplaced but I have every mot and bill from 2004 onwards,,,,
gives a great insight to work on the car ,much more then a few pages of stamps although it would have been nice to have the og service book,,,
I have a new service book now that will correlate with my receipts from my owner ship ,,,,,


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Robw516 said:


> Beleive all Petrol models are chain driven, only the diesel have cams but I maybe wrong, sure more seasoned members would be able to say for sure.
> However I personally recommend a chain driven model anyway.


Depending on the year, an Audi TT could come with one of several different engines. (note: all motors have cams)
1.8l TSFI - EA888 (chain)
2.0l TFSI – EA113 (belt)
2.0l FSI – EA888 (chain)
2.0l TDI – Diesel (chain)
2.0l TSFI – EA113 TTS enhanced (belt)
3.2l - normally aspirated V6 (chain)
2.5l R5 TSFI TTRS (chain)

Early model turbo engines were known to burn oil due to undersized piston rings. Latter model chain-driven motors were known to fail due to chain tensioner issues. You will want to verify any car you're considering is not subject to these issues or proof that repairs have been made.
Also as Hoggy stated above, be aware that no matter what kind of deal you get on the purchase price (due to age and / or mileage), the cost to care and feed a sportscar can be expensive since the price for parts & service never goes down.


Here is a repost of my (universal) advice for anyone purchasing a vehicle:

_If you are serious about making an offer, make the sale contingent upon the seller allowing for the
vehicle to be evaluated by an independent mechanic of your choosing (On your dime of course).

If everything checks out, consider the cost 'cheap' insurance. If problems are found, then you have a negotiating tool and the sales price is adjusted accordingly (assuming problems are minor). Or if major issues are discovered, consider the money well spent since it saved you from making an expensive mistake.

A good mechanic will likely charge for ~ 2hrs for their time. They will be able to uncover more than you ever could.

Of course, there is no guarantees even with an independent inspection, but hopefully the inspection will keep you from purchasing a lemon, or at least, help you avoid some costly repairs.

I'l add one other bit of advice...
...many times a seller will replace worn-out tires with new (but cheap) tires prior to the sale. This is no value to you. Nothing wrong with it per-se, but it isn't a selling point.

Don't pay extra just because the rubber is new. If this happens, tell the seller you intend on removing the cheap tires as soon as possible, and your offer is the same as if they were worn out.

Also, tires (regardless of tread-life) need to be replaced if more than 5 years old (search the web for how to decode manufacture date) Again, don't pay extra for old tires even if they are a good brand in 'like-new' condition._


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