# 3.2 S-Line DSG - Looking for info



## recaro19

Hey all,

Fairly new member here from across the pond (Canada) and just picked up my first DSG 3.2 S-Line in the A3 format. We only ever got the 5-door model here but we were lucky enough to get an S-Line with the VR6.

Before this car, I had a 2002 AMU TT with a 6-speed. had it tuned and did a bunch of suspension mods to stiffen it up. Was a lot of fun but Canadian weather made me slide into someone's behind so I'm currently looking at replacing it with another for some summer fun. I don't want to turn this into another Manual vs DSG debate because I'm definitely leaning more towards the 3.2 DSG TT this time around the more I drive my A3, so more so looking for information on the potential of these cars and just how good a DSG tune will make the overall experience better. The great thing about the A3 is that it will be my daily and the new TT will only be summer driven, but it's giving me first-hand experience at driving the same drivetrain that's in the TT. I also have the benefit of being a previous 225 owner since 2016 (and a manual driver since I was about 12) and as much as I love manual, I'm a bit over it considering how fun the DSG can be. Consider me someone who will most likely convert fully to the DSG side...Keewwwww (my take at Darth Vader sound via text...LOL)

My experience so far has been positive but I'm having some thoughts about the DSG before I pull the plug and dive into it. Right now I'm looking at a 2004 Audi TT 3.2 S-Line in black with 62000 KM and a 2002 225 Audi TT ALMS in Avus Silver and Red interior. Again, not looking to spark a debate on DSG vs manual because I've driven the manual and know how fun it is. The only thing holding me back is if my questions have a solution and just trying to gain more confidence in my thinking of going with the DSG.

I'm definitely not a country-back road warrior. Most of my driving is done in the city and on the highway as I commute to work. I live in Toronto so it's busy and I'm quite tired of having to be stuck in traffic shifting all the time. The manual was cool and all but I'm not getting any younger and the novelty of shifting is sort of feeling more like a chore these days. I've also got back and hip issues so it's been nice not having to constantly shift my weight and have one leg bigger than the other. The A3 has been fun to drive and it's why I'm leaning toward the S-Line TT this time around.

I'm a bit concerned about how the DSG functions though. Auto mode is super clunky and I find myself in Manual mode more than sport mode. I'd rather redline my shifts with the paddle than let the car do the work so haven't really touched S mode all that much other than trying it out here and there. While the DSG is definitely quick, it's still got this hesitation and doesn't feel as quick as shifting the gear myself. I also noticed that sometimes when I push the gas, the car doesn't necessarily engage right away. Downshifts also feel a bit hesitant and harsh and although it's not horrible, I'm wondering just how good a TCU tune would clean all this up.

Have any of you done the tune and noticed a dramatic change? If so which tune and how has it changed? Was it day and night noticeable or is it not worth the money? I've heard the HPA Stage 2 and Stage 3 are very good and considering getting it done on my A3 to test out but the car has 189000 km on it as i bought it used so not sure if the clunkiness is just from it being higher mileage or if all DSG’s are this way. Debating if it’s it would be worth tuning.

Again, I'm pretty set on going the 3.2 way this time for my TT as a summer car. After hearing the VR6 sound and tired of searching around for boost and oil leaks on the 1.8T, I'm looking forward to having the top-of-the-line TT as a summer car with the windows down to hear that beautiful exhaust note. I do plan on modding but most likely only cames, headers, and maybe down pipes to start. Not boosting anytime soon but perhaps in the future. Oh forgot to mention, the 3.2 I'm looking at next week also has a scorpion exhaust on it so again, the only thing holding me back is going full DSG and ditching the manual. I'm an enthusiast so love my spirited driving. Just want to make sure I'm not gonna regret the DSG.

Thanks for taking the time to read and look forward to having a civil conversation. Also please remember, I'm pretty sold on the DSG just looking for insight on the TCU tune and how drastic it will change the behavior since I haven't been able to find much about it on any forum. I'M NOT DEBATING DSG VS MANUAL...LOL


----------



## David C

That was a long post…!!!

Have to admit I did skim read that a bit.

Your car may just need the DSG calibrating.

Sport mode is bonkers though.
Not really usable on the road as it changes down too eagerly.


----------



## recaro19

Ya sorry! Haha…. I like to be quite descriptive. I’m a bit OCD. 

I did do the recalibration this morning before heading into work. Not sure it worked or not or if I did it right for that matter The drive home in manual mode was a fun learning experience though (except for the flat o had to change out before leaving the office).

apart from the recalibration, any experience with a dsg tune? Does it fix all the quirks?


----------



## E.L.Wisty

You will always get a slight hesitation with DSG if you are needing/asking it to shift two gears (eg cruising in high gear and then demanding a much lower one). When shifting just one, as is the usual case, the shift should be seamless and near-instantaneous.

For the driving you are doing DSG sounds well suited.


----------



## recaro19

Do you mean in stock form or with a tune as well? From what I’ve been digging up, TCU tubes should help quicken the shifts and tighten up the way the transmission operates.

that’s what I’m trying to get a feel for from others who have a tune on This box. Stock form isn’t terrible. It’s actually quite impressive compared to shifting manually but there are some quirks that I wish weren’t there.

this car will be a summer car only so more for fun spirited driving. Might bring it work once in a while but ultimately I want to make it the dream car I’ve always wanted as a kid


----------



## mk1chopper

Have you had the dsg serviced? Your A3 will be the 8p varient which shares the same platform as the Mk2 TT, not sure if the dsg box is the same or slightly revised compared to the Mk1 TT and if there are any differences in how they perform.


----------



## recaro19

The previous owner had it serviced but I will be going to my mechanic to have it done regardless in a week or so. I’ve only just gotten the car a few weeks ago so haven’t had a chance to go see him.

i wasn’t Ware that the dsg was different from the TT to the A3. My A3 is a 2006 and the TT is a 2004. Would they not share the same tranny in that year or was it a transition period?


----------



## David C

The Mk1 TT & Mk4 R32 DSG is a wet clutch system.
I’m sure the Mk2 TT is a dry clutch system.
I’d guess the A3 followed the same pattern.


----------



## recaro19

Got it. So does it operate better as a wet clutch? I’m heading to the car next weekend to check it out so will be experiencing it and will be able to compare.

So, do any of you have a tcu tune on the mk1 TT?


----------



## StuartDB

@desertstorm has a mapped DSG in his 1.8T, but not sure what box it is, maybe look at his thread. 









Karls Track day TT, Officially a 10 second car 10.8 @127 mph


Amazing!!! Congratrs on the time - looks like the aerodynamics wins over downforce on the drag strip?




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## desertstorm

recaro19 said:


> Got it. So does it operate better as a wet clutch? I’m heading to the car next weekend to check it out so will be experiencing it and will be able to compare.
> So, do any of you have a tcu tune on the mk1 TT?


There are small changes between the MK1 TT DSG and the later DSG gearboxes in TT's A3's etc. Mechanically there is very little difference , The changes were mainly in the Mechatronic and software with the later gearboxes being better. The DQ250 in my TT is from a 2012 TTS. 
I have a stage 3 TVS map on my gearbox. TVS are probably the world leader in DSG gearbox remaps they have been around a long time and seem to be able to do a lot of stuff that other tuners don't offer. 
Remapping the gearbox improves shift speeds and allows more torque to be transmitted by increasing the clamp pressure on the clutch packs. On my gearbox stock map it would change up at 6800 rpm max rpm, remapped in manual it's good for 8100 rpm. Stock clamp pressure is around 12.5 bar , on my box it will clamp at 18 bar . The gearbox change maps have been recalibrated, in stock form in D the gearbox mapping will try and get you into 6th asap for economy reasons. In S it's completely different changing down at the first sign of prodding the accelerator and holding onto gears till the red line.
After the remap D is a lot better not trying to get you into 6th at 30mph and S is more useful, It's not as aggressive as the stock map.
If you are in Canada HPA are pretty knowledgeable with their DSG remaps, APR and IE are also sellers who offer generic DSG tunes.


----------



## McPikie

desertstorm said:


> There are small changes between the MK1 TT DSG and the later DSG gearboxes in TT's A3's etc. Mechanically there is very little difference , The changes were mainly in the Mechatronic and software with the later gearboxes being better. The DQ250 in my TT is from a 2012 TTS.
> I have a stage 3 TVS map on my gearbox. TVS are probably the world leader in DSG gearbox remaps they have been around a long time and seem to be able to do a lot of stuff that other tuners don't offer.
> Remapping the gearbox improves shift speeds and allows more torque to be transmitted by increasing the clamp pressure on the clutch packs. On my gearbox stock map it would change up at 6800 rpm max rpm, remapped in manual it's good for 8100 rpm. Stock clamp pressure is around 12.5 bar , on my box it will clamp at 18 bar . The gearbox change maps have been recalibrated, in stock form in D the gearbox mapping will try and get you into 6th asap for economy reasons. In S it's completely different changing down at the first sign of prodding the accelerator and holding onto gears till the red line.
> After the remap D is a lot better not trying to get you into 6th at 30mph and S is more useful, It's not as aggressive as the stock map.
> If you are in Canada HPA are pretty knowledgeable with their DSG remaps, APR and IE are also sellers who offer generic DSG tunes.


I take it the DQ250 is only for 4 cylinder engines?


----------



## desertstorm

McPikie said:


> I take it the DQ250 is only for 4 cylinder engines?


No the DQ250 is used on the 3.2 V6 mk1 TT and several other engines. A 3.2 V6 DQ250 won't fit a 1.8 4 pot though as the gearbox bell housing is different. A 3.2 V6 leans forward about 15 degrees, a 1.8T leans back around 15 degrees. Typically it's used on engines that are limited to around 400Nm peak torque. Engines making more torque like the RS3, TTRS use trhe DQ500. Later 2.0 TFSI MQB cars tend to use the DQ381 which is based on the DQ500 and give you 7 gears. All DQ250 gearboxes are 6 speed.


----------



## recaro19

desertstorm said:


> There are small changes between the MK1 TT DSG and the later DSG gearboxes in TT's A3's etc. Mechanically there is very little difference , The changes were mainly in the Mechatronic and software with the later gearboxes being better. The DQ250 in my TT is from a 2012 TTS.
> I have a stage 3 TVS map on my gearbox. TVS are probably the world leader in DSG gearbox remaps they have been around a long time and seem to be able to do a lot of stuff that other tuners don't offer.
> Remapping the gearbox improves shift speeds and allows more torque to be transmitted by increasing the clamp pressure on the clutch packs. On my gearbox stock map it would change up at 6800 rpm max rpm, remapped in manual it's good for 8100 rpm. Stock clamp pressure is around 12.5 bar , on my box it will clamp at 18 bar . The gearbox change maps have been recalibrated, in stock form in D the gearbox mapping will try and get you into 6th asap for economy reasons. In S it's completely different changing down at the first sign of prodding the accelerator and holding onto gears till the red line.
> After the remap D is a lot better not trying to get you into 6th at 30mph and S is more useful, It's not as aggressive as the stock map.
> If you are in Canada HPA are pretty knowledgeable with their DSG remaps, APR and IE are also sellers who offer generic DSG tunes.


thanks for the detailed response. After the tune does the transmission become a bit more smoother or are there still surges and jerks? I notice in drive and sport the throttle is a little delayed before the car accelerated, and when it does it hits pretty hard. I did the reset but haven’t tried any of themodes again.

just curious what to expect after a tune other then the increase in shift speeds abs rpm Red lines. I know those are major differences and make the transmission more operable but curious what other benefits it will bring.

HPA is def top of the line here in canada. They are experts at the 3.2 and dsg based cars but their tune is quite expensive. They’ve been in the game a long time Local shop here is an HPA dealer so will stop by when I can. Curious to here more about TVS though. Do they allow for user based tunes or is it by a dealer only?


----------



## McPikie

desertstorm said:


> No the DQ250 is used on the 3.2 V6 mk1 TT and several other engines. A 3.2 V6 DQ250 won't fit a 1.8 4 pot though as the gearbox bell housing is different. A 3.2 V6 leans forward about 15 degrees, a 1.8T leans back around 15 degrees. Typically it's used on engines that are limited to around 400Nm peak torque. Engines making more torque like the RS3, TTRS use trhe DQ500. Later 2.0 TFSI MQB cars tend to use the DQ381 which is based on the DQ500 and give you 7 gears. All DQ250 gearboxes are 6 speed.


Not sure why, I thought you were running a 1.8T

I'm going to be doing the chains on my 3.2 in spring and, whilst the DSG box is off, i wondered whether it would be worth putting a new clutch pack in


----------



## StuartDB

Karl does have a 4 cylinder 1.8, but doesn't use the V6 3.2 DQ250 - he uses one with the correct bell housing


----------



## recaro19

Here is the convo I just had with Alan at HPA. Guy is such a cool dude and very helpful! There DSG tune sounds pretty sweet but also got some info on potency of their turbo kits and just how much power the stock kit can take.

*1) Wondering if your tune worked for the first gen audi tt with the early dsg. Also, what sort of power can they take and what will your ecu tune bring it to? *

_We have done both the DSG and ECU on these cars before. With a stock engine and stock gearbox, we have been able to run north of 500 HP and 500 TQ with our FTX turbo systems. For just an ECU tune, you're looking at 5-10 HP area. _

*2) interesting. so what would you recommend i do first? cams? *

_Cams will help slightly. There's not much in gains on a naturally aspirated car, in general. Cams will be compatible with our turbo kits moving forward. _

*3) so would cams help when it comes time to turbo or is it better to just leave the engine stock and move straight to the turbo? *

_The cams help more when there's a turbo installed. This is because it allows for more airflow to enter the cylinders. _

*3) Got it. so maybe it's best to do the cams so that when it comes time to boost we will be set. Does any bottom end work have to be done? *

_If you are planning to max out at the 500 HP level, the only work are some race-grade connecting rod bearings and the head spacer which comes with the kit. Replacing the timing chain with an extended one included also. _

*4) What about the 350-400 mark? i'm considering the dtm 350 but hoping to get around 400 *

_400+ would be the same. All kits include the compression reduction head spacer and lengthened timing chain. To run the 400 HP level, the engine must be intercooled. you can't run that power level on DTM. All our kits have head spacers and for 400+ it is recommended to change to race bearings bearings and must have intercooler _

*5) so for the dsg tune... *

_yeah...DSG Stage3 tune will be recommended with turbo applications. You don't need clutch upgrade until you get to FT-470 _

*6) what can be expected if i do it? i'd probably start there but curious what the difference would be on stage 2 and stage 3 on stock?*

_Stage3 will be much sportier in D and S modes. Stage2 has stock shift points in D mode for everyday driving. Clamping forces are stronger on Stage3 and it actually drives much more intuitively _

He also noted that their turbo systems are "instantanious" as they use a liquid cooling technique with their kits. There is no intervooler as the silicon hose goes directly from the turbo into the intake. Negating the need for the air to travel through various pipes which creates the turbo lag. Their system sounds very well put together. Something i'll be saving up for for sure! 

To start though, i'll probably start with the stage 3 dsg tune. Will be checking out the car this Sunday and whether i get it or stick to the A3 - I'm looking forward to sharing the deets with everyone. Is anyone gonna be around on Sunday if i need to ask questions while i'm looking at the car?


----------



## StuartDB

That's long a v6 NA is pointless to map for power without fitting a turbo.

Have a look at Tuffty @ ASN threads, he has gone through the normal process of 1.8t hybrid (might have actually skipped hybrid and went straight to BT), big turbo, forged rods etc 600bhp, and has more recently built a v6 forged engine and either his original gt35 or new style turbo like Karl has at 520bhp / 480ftlb etc i got a bit bored when he was sorting out rust and interior - his 1.8t destroyed transfer boxes and prop shaft UJs, other 1.8ts smashed up drive shafts on launch.... the v6 motors along with the other components and weight make them like a boat.....

my 1.8t hybrid was about 360 / 360 up to about 5500rpm then ran out of flow not boost, it just physically couldn't get anymore air through the charge circuit and exhaust.. I have opened up the manifold, but havn't been bothered to sort out the clutch issue yet.. starting a new job soon, and hoping to regain some personal pride and motivation and quit watching TV and necking 8 cans whilst typing java stuff everyday 



Let's see..


----------



## McPikie

recaro19 said:


> He also noted that their turbo systems are "instantanious" as they use a liquid cooling technique with their kits. There is no intervooler as the silicon hose goes directly from the turbo into the intake. Negating the need for the air to travel through various pipes which creates the turbo lag.


Lag does not come from the pipework. Lag is created by the size of the compressor wheel/exhaust wheel as it takes time to spool and create boost.


----------



## recaro19

McPikie said:


> Lag does not come from the pipework. Lag is created by the size of the compressor wheel/exhaust wheel as it takes time to spool and create boost.


right. But that air needs to travel through the intercooler system prior to entering the intake so lag is infact a combination of spoiling time and distance the compressed air needs to travel before entering combustion.

It takes much longer for air going through an intercooler system then through a short silicon hose feeding the intake directly. HPA uses liquid cooling so there is no intercooler system so it does in fact cancel out lag since even as the turbo starts to spoil it is already introducing more air from the very start. Also, the turbine is never not spinning so HPA’s comment does make sense since even at idle the turbo is increasing air flow much more efficiently then of it had to travel through the plumbing.


----------



## recaro19

StuartDB said:


> That's long a v6 NA is pointless to map for power without fitting a turbo.
> 
> Have a look at Tuffty @ ASN threads, he has gone through the normal process of 1.8t hybrid (might have actually skipped hybrid and went straight to BT), big turbo, forged rods etc 600bhp, and has more recently built a v6 forged engine and either his original gt35 or new style turbo like Karl has at 520bhp / 480ftlb etc i got a bit bored when he was sorting out rust and interior - his 1.8t destroyed transfer boxes and prop shaft UJs, other 1.8ts smashed up drive shafts on launch.... the v6 motors along with the other components and weight make them like a boat.....
> 
> my 1.8t hybrid was about 360 / 360 up to about 5500rpm then ran out of flow not boost, it just physically couldn't get anymore air through the charge circuit and exhaust.. I have opened up the manifold, but havn't been bothered to sort out the clutch issue yet.. starting a new job soon, and hoping to regain some personal pride and motivation and quit watching TV and necking 8 cans whilst typing java stuff everyday
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see..


yeah that seems to be what I’m finding in my research. There are claims of a few tunes reaching 270 hp but I assume that’s crank not wheel. It’s only a 20 hp difference so not worth It unless you are tuning for turbo.

Co Motorsports here in canada has a video of a 3.2 being Dyno’d that was modified with cams and I believe exhaust and intake. They competed the Unitronics tune to a United Motorsports and with united I believe he got it to 238 whp which is quite impressive so 300 hp is doable but seems more economical to just slap a turbo on then to do can and head work only, but in the end the cam and head work will help with turboing anyways.

here is the link:Co Motorsports Audi TT MK1 3.2 VR6 Dyno

i don’t really care for 1.8T anymore. Had a 225 and while I know the potential, they require a lot more work to get there. VR6 are amazing candidates for boost where the 1.8T means opening up the engine and replacing quite a few bits. Also, I wasn’t very impressed with how the power fizzled out in the higher rpm range of the 1.8T. It was fun but something about the vr6 just feels way better when you step on the gas. Not sure what the experience is like in the TT version but I’ll find out this weekend.

personally, I don’t even really need to get insane Power. Would 500hp be cool? Sure….but where am I gonna use it? I’m usually street driving or on motorways, so 500hp would just get me in big big trouble…lol. I’m looking for modest gains in the 350-400 range just to make the car what it should have been from the start.

handling wise, is it much different from the 1.8T? I had my suspension done pretty well on my 225 (coils, PowerFlex, rear control arms…). Plan to do the same on the vr6 if I get it and also hear upgraded sway bars help a lot. I’ll probably go shocks and lowering springs from H&R this time though. How much better or worse is the handling of the vr6?

as for the builds you mentioned, do you have links? I’m also currently reading through Steve’s 133 page turbo build to gather what I can


----------



## McPikie

recaro19 said:


> right. But that air needs to travel through the intercooler system prior to entering the intake so lag is infact a combination of spoiling time and distance the compressed air needs to travel before entering combustion.
> 
> It takes much longer for air going through an intercooler system then through a short silicon hose feeding the intake directly. HPA uses liquid cooling so there is no intercooler system so it does in fact cancel out lag since even as the turbo starts to spoil it is already introducing more air from the very start. Also, the turbine is never not spinning so HPA’s comment does make sense since even at idle the turbo is increasing air flow much more efficiently then of it had to travel through the plumbing.


Forgive me if I'm wrong here......but there's always air travelling through the intake system/intercooler, it's just once boost is produced at a determined engine speed that it is forced through. Therefore it's not so much the length of the intake system, but the time it takes the turbo to spool which creates lag. Hence anti-lag is s system which keeps the boost built up so that there's no compressor stall.


----------



## PlasticMac

McPikie said:


> Forgive me if I'm wrong here......but there's always air travelling through the intake system/intercooler, it's just once boost is produced at a determined engine speed that it is forced through. Therefore it's not so much the length of the intake system, but the time it takes the turbo to spool which creates lag. Hence anti-lag is s system which keeps the boost built up so that there's no compressor stall.


But, having to work harder, to pull the air through the intake and Intercooler, must load the turbo so extending the spooling time of the turbo. 
Mac.


----------



## StuartDB

My minor modding thread | Page 111 | Audi-Sport.net


----------



## recaro19

PlasticMac said:


> But, having to work harder, to pull the air through the intake and Intercooler, must load the turbo so extending the spooling time of the turbo.
> Mac.


Precisely. In any situation, the path of least resistance will get you to your end goal quicker. If you start 5 miles away and I start 1 mile away, I'll beat you every time. 

The same can be said for how the boost of a turbo enters the combustion chamber. If it's got a few feet of piping to run through on its way to a traditional Intercooling set up compared to a few inches of silicon fed directly to the intake, it will not be the same performance and one will take longer to make the power then the other.


----------



## recaro19

StuartDB said:


> My minor modding thread | Page 111 | Audi-Sport.net


Awesome sauce! I'll add this to my reading list


----------



## StuartDB

Properly Turbocharging a V6 will cost over £10K, to update a 1.8T maybe £3-8K there's lots you can do on your own. 

The cheapest best bang for your buck is a Stage 2 update on a 1.8T 225 -> 280bhp / 280lb/ft maybe (£650? - £1200?) <-- if you can modify a couple of tables and overwrite your own map.

1. B5 TIP and heat sheld (£170)
2. ProRam Filter (£40)
3. 3 inch downpipe and 200cel sports cat (£250-£500) (ebay v pipe werx)
4. 64mm In/Out 550 / 300 FMIC and Supporting Pipework (£150- £450) (toyosports v airtec)

but you will probably decide to change the fuel pump and everyone wants the PTFE inlet gasket, then you will want some forge dv008 bling in the engine bay, and notice some ropey looking pipework, you will change those for forge silicon, but not after using cheap pipes first, no-one trusts the guides are the best value so you will waste money on garbage first, plus during this you will break other pipes and replace those pipes and fit a catch can as it is cheaper than find all the original pipes etc and when you go to fit the 3 inch downpipe you will drop the subframe and will not be able to undo the manifold to turbo bolts so will spend £50 on carbide drill bits to try and drill off the bolt heads then remove the head and do the timing belt at the same time so that's another 200, may as well refresh the turbo as you can see the hotside is cracked  

I knew an old lady who swallowed a fly


----------



## recaro19

HAHA!! It’s funny because that last bit is so true. Definition of ADHD really… you sure it was a fly? I thought it was a cockroach. Cockroaches fly too! 😂

No doubt the vr6 is more expensive but the 1.8T is only good for max 300hp. I’d argue that is the very max considering the rods are the weak links. Anything over and you are breaking open the engine and redoing everything which, if you are gonna go that far, might as well do it on an engine worth ripping apart IMO. What’s a few extra thousand for a proper car that can compete with supercars and high end muscle?

With the VR6, getting to 4-500 hp is easy peasy Without having to even open the bottom end. It’s only passed that where you need to start considering engine rebuilding. End of the day, neither are cheap and if I was gonna dump money into a build I’d rather make it a build worth having rather then another 1.8T. I had a 225 as mentioned. I did the tune. Went Malone stage 1 and had about 260. Personally, I got tired of the 1.8T. It was quick but it wasn’t fast like theVR6. I look at the VR6 as the hot rod type car where people look at and think Wow… that is a rare machine. If I wanted to tune a 4 banger I could argue that building a Honda would be even cheaper! But who wants a Honda???


----------



## StuartDB

A stage 2 wont get a safe 300bhp - but a 1.8t is easily up to 500-600 if you buy the correct mods mine was ~ 350bhp before i took it off the road - some people use a ATE VT262-E (380) K04 hybrid and reach 400bhp 











mine it rated to 370bhp AET Turbos Hybrid K04 1.8T 20V BAM K04 -370 VT262C Turbo – AET Motorsport its the same apart from is compatible with a b5 v3 tip, instead of the 2.2 version

(- but I hit a flow wall - so have opened up the chinafold a bit more.

desertstorm's 1.8t is 520bhp


----------



## recaro19

nice! Looks cool but again, it's not just slapping a turbo on the engine. Gotta price in rods, bearings, APR hardware, and labour...still looking at 5K + and that's not including the necessary upgrades for intercooling, fueling, and spark.

I think VR6 kit is pricier but it's easier to get to where you want to go. 1.8T is a lot more involved and once you factor in labour, i'd argue it works out to about the same. maybe slightly cheaper but i don't see it being that much different considering it is much more involved.


----------



## McPikie

If you think rods and bearings are hard work, you're going to love trying to time up a 24v VR6 with a head spacer on


----------



## recaro19

I won't be doing the work myself. Already spoke to a garage and they told me that the vr6 way would be much less labour intensive. All they need to do is take out the head witht he engine in rather then ripping out the entire 1.8T (and the nightmare of hoses that come with it). 1.8T also needs to go to the machine shop before assembly which is why I'm saying after all is said and done, the cost is not that much different.

Either way, turbo'ing is a long way away and not even something I am certain on. I gotta check out the car first this sunday and see if it's something i will even acquire. If i do, Stage 3 tune from HPA or maybe a tune from TVS for the DSG is first line of attack. then I will see.... i may enjoy it as NA for a while but I know i'll get used to it and want more eventually


----------



## recaro19

Anyone have the TVS DSG tune???


----------



## StuartDB

Yeah, 1.8t is probably more like 5k - 10k if you are doing the work yourself by the end of it - if you are going hybrid or big turbo (I expect over the years I have spent 7K - some of it wasted trying to be cheaper, or broken from abuse / mistake and that doesn't include big front brakes) , but you can do all the work on your driveway - it's not that complicated - a vr6 will still need rods, rings, bearings, chains, head work, inconel valves, supertech catcam springs etc, remapping, dsg remap etc. it would be cheaper to get a B5 S4 and update the turbos to K04s


----------



## StuartDB

recaro19 said:


> Anyone have the TVS DSG tune???


desertstorm already answered, I think Bill @B5 did Tuffty's DSG remap


----------

