# About to buy - what should I check



## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Hi Everyone, new member looking to buy a convertible.

I'm after some advice on what to check and an idea of pricing for a good car. I'm looking for an early car, around 2000 or so with approx 100k or less.

I've arranged to see one in a couple of days that the owner (friend of a mechanic mate) was planning to sell in a month or so when summer ends. It's 100k 2001 225 4wd in silver with black leather and heated seats. Supposed to be a well looked after car which he's owned for a few years and I'll have first chance at it, but that's as much as I know.

What should I look for or check? What sort of price is reasonable if the car appears a good one?

I've been driving diesels for the past 6 years so this will be a change. Had a few sports cars and convertibles in the past, it's just been a while......last two Audi's both diesel A3's. Had a WRX for a while which was also 4wd and 225bhp - I'm assuming a similar drive?

Any help and advice greatly appreciated ! Off to read the forum now...

Thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Welcome to the TTF.
My standard reply for would be Mk1 owners

Service history is very important. 
Cambelt/water pump 75K miles or 5 years which ever comes first.
Dash instruments (dashpod) read correctly & coolant temp reaches 90 within a couple of miles & stays there.
3.2 V6 no turbo or cambelt to worry about, so should be more reliable & a nicer exhaust note.
DSG may be weak link, unless you can find a manual. Expensive to repair, but probably no more expensive than a manuals clutch.
Check no delay when pulling away & no juddering when reversing slowly while turning up an incline or into a tight parking space.
V6 Chain wear can be checked using VagCom, very expensive to replace.
Don't rush into it. A good TT is a wonderful car, *a bad un can be a money pit.*
Plenty of good uns out there, but probably more bad uns, *so as I said don't rush into it.*
A bad TT, could be the most expensive car you've ever bought.

Roadsters, check roof operation thorougly & carpets for damp, especially in the rear. Roof drains block easily & damp can cause lot of future probs in rest of car.
Hoggy.


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Welcome  not sure if you know but there was a facelift mid 2002 with lower suspensions bigger wheels and a few other updates


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Thanks for the replies.

Does the 1.8T in 225 form handle high mileage if looked after?

When you say money pit, what are the high cost common failure points and how do I check for them at test drive?

Thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

po54 said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> Does the 1.8T in 225 form handle high mileage if looked after?
> When you say money pit, what are the high cost common failure points and how do I check for them at test drive?
> Thanks


Hi, Yes if looked after, but unless you can DIY they are expensive cars to maintain, which is why Service/MOT history/ is so important.
Hoggy


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Hi

Going to view a 2001 Roadster at the weekend. 225 BAM ( what does BAM mean?) quattro with 115k miles.

So apart from service history, check dials/display, check roof and all electrics work, usual car checks that go for any car this age?

Anything else I should be looking for?

Assuming all good with a cambelt in the last 3 years, what would you expect to pay for it?

Thanks
PO54


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

BAM is the engine also make sure the cambelt has done less than 60000 miles


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Friends silver one no good good then ?


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Same car, I didn't have the correct info when I first posted, spoken to the owner now and know more. It's on a Y plate and yes silver but a couple more miles than I was originally told. MOT history looks good, only a few minor advisories over the past few years - will be thoroughly checking service history when I'm there. Bodywork is apparently excellent for year. Does this sound OK for under £2k or expensive?

Thanks


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

po54 said:


> Same car, I didn't have the correct info when I first posted, spoken to the owner now and know more. It's on a Y plate and yes silver but a couple more miles than I was originally told. MOT history looks good, only a few minor advisories over the past few years - will be thoroughly checking service history when I'm there. Bodywork is apparently excellent for year. Does this sound OK for under £2k or expensive?
> 
> Thanks


If it's a Y plate I would have thought it would have an APX engine :?


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

YELLOW_TT said:


> If it's a Y plate I would have thought it would have an APX engine :?


Is that a good or bad thing? What's the difference?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, My X plate 225 is BAM engine. Late 2000/early 2001 225 are usually APX.
APX has a secondary air pump, BAM has VVT both used to control cold start emissions.
Hoggy.


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

OK, been to see the car which has raised a few questions. Firstly it's a 180 with single exhaust. It has apparently been remapped by a previous owner and is running about 230bhp (from the previous owner, no proof) - he doesn't know what other mods it had done other than the map as it was for his wife to potter to the shops in so he's not looked at it and only done usual maintenance and MOT's. Cambelt, thermostat and water pump done late 2015 and only 9k miles ago. It was also done at 75k miles. Roof and everything works perfectly except the things below. Dashpod is all working perfectly.

Stereo just says SAFE and won't turn on. He has the code but it won't accept it
Drivers door doesn't drop the half inch when you open it about 1 in 3 times. Works perfectly when the roof is used.
Couple of plastic parts under the bonnet (around back of headlights ) have their clips/scrivets missing - assume these are pennies?

Are these easy fixes and approx cost please?

Bodywork is like a 3 year old car. I can only find 1 small shopping dent on a rear arch/wing and 2 stone chips on the front. Slight scuff to the corner which will easily polish out. Wheels are mostly very good, nearside front has a minor curb on it. It will need 2 rear tyres soon. Hood is in good nick and no sign of leaks.

Headlights need refurbishing as have gone milky/cloudy

He has a massive folder of receipts , old MOT's, invoices etc. and the service book is stamped up to last summer. MOT till next May.

It drives lovely. No noises, creaks or rattles and it goes like a scolded cat.  I don't know what power it is making but it feels faster than my old Scooby and more like my 240bhp MX-5 I used to have. It grips really well but will be due the 4wd oil change as he didn't know they were on such a short interval and other than service book stamps there is nothing to say it's been done in the past few years. 
How much to budget for this to be done? He said he may do it before it goes up for sale though.

That's about all I can remember, very keen on it and have 3-4 weeks to consider it and drive others before it will be for sale.

Opinions?
Thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, What's the asking price ?
Hoggy.


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

He was planning to advertise it for 1995 expecting to take 1700-1800. I can have it for £1500 if I want it so he doesn't have any of the hassle selling. Is that about right, gives me a little in the bank to fix the issues....


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Cheap enough as long as you have another £1k spare as it may be required, especially if you can't DIY.
Hoggy.  .


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Are the issues with the window and stereo common? Cheap or expensive fixes?


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Welcome


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## po54 (Aug 28, 2018)

Nevermind, done a bit more reading of this forum and answered my own questions.

Thanks all


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