# Key Fobs / Remote Locking



## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Hi

The remote lock/unlock function on both my key fobs has stopped working. I've tried replacing the batteries and have followed the guide on coding keys ( http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc13.shtml ) without any success.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Andrew


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## Discoaintdead (Mar 22, 2008)

I thought I had a similar problem and it was a dead car battery.

I changed the fob battery though intitially so I needed to reformat it. Stick it into the door and press the unlock button while turning worked for me.


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## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Just tried. Still not working.


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## holynougat (Sep 24, 2007)

I've had the same proble, i've had nearly all the compnents in the system
replaced and I'm 700 quid worse off but still not remote locking! lol


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## &gt;Russ&lt; (Jan 15, 2008)

I has a similar problem, was trying the resysnc process for ages! All it was that I had to lock/unlock the car on the passenger side....I was doing it on the drivers side.


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## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Does vag-com have provision for key programming? None of the above seems to be working, still...

Thanks.


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## skiwhiz (Feb 17, 2008)

Hi
my keys are 2 yrs old and had a similar problem with 1 of them. Dealer is replacing fob and said it takes 40 mins to do on the computer as they have to link to germany to reprogramme. plan to have it done in next month.

not sure what cost would be when not covered by warranty


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## wintermax (Apr 11, 2006)

I had the same problem. Tried the reset sequence several times but could not get it to work. So I took it to the dealer for service and they somehow reset it. Problem is I forgot the second set and now they want me to pay to reset the second set :evil:


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

VAGCOM can support the remote reprogramming, not the immobiliser reprogramming. If dealer orders a new fob complete with blade it will require coding to the immobiliser, but they can order just the remote part of the fob if thats gone faulty.

Very rare for 2 fobs to fail at the same time so more likely a problem with central locking unit, VAGCOM would give some clues...


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## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Still not had a chance to get to the bottom of this.

Do you know where the 'central locking unit(s)' is/are?

Thanks.


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## triplefan (Sep 3, 2008)

There are several versions of how to re-program the fobs, this one worked for me 

You will need BOTH of your "switchblade" keys to reprogram one or both of them.

1. Take the key you DO NOT want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.
2. Close and lock the drivers door with the second key.
3. On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked
4. With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.
5. Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.
6. Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.

If both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

Courtesy of Wak http://www.wak-tt.com/


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## s3mad (Aug 26, 2008)

If u need keys programming and coded PM me have all the software etc ill do for a few beers


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## s3mad (Aug 26, 2008)

Let me know people ill code any amount of keys for £10 based in surrey


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## Rob-Edwards (Sep 2, 2007)

Hi,

sorry to bring an old post up but wondering if andrew.p got to the bottom of his problem?

I have the same problem by the sound of it. Audi have said that they will charge £150 + VAT for a new key which they are saying is the best option but I don't believe this will fix the problem and I will be out of pocket still with an issue.

Just to confirm, my issue is:

2000 TT 1.8T(225)
1) 2 x keys that will not remotely operate the doors, boot or windows - both used to but stopped working (I think at the same time)
2) Both keys will unlock the driver or passenger door manually
3) When unlocking either of the doors manually, the other door will remain locked until pressing the unlock button in the car or turning the key in the ignition to accessory live (lights on the dashboard but car not started) and waiting for a second or two until the door unlocks itself
4) Both keys immobilisers work (both drive the car)

I have tried all the various methods of locking/unlocking the car and pressing the buttons to recode (one of which is described by triplefan above) but the keys will not respond. I have replaced the battery in one of the keys and tried again several times but with no joy.

Any ideas much appreciated!

Thanks

Rob


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## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Rob, afraid I didn't find out what the problem was in the end. Decided to sell the car as well so I guess I'll never know.

I wouldn't have thought it's a coding problem since both my keys still worked with the immobiliser and so it must have been a a faulty receiver module but I couldn't find where it was hidden to replace it.

If you do find out I'd be interested to know where it is or what was actually the problem!


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## Racer28 (Aug 21, 2009)

Hi guys,

I have a similar problem, I think anyway.

I have had my ECU ABS unit go in my TT, and it was sent of to be refurbed. It never was and was brought back to me and put back in the car, but now the immobiliser wont work, and I only have the one key? 

Christian


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## Rob-Edwards (Sep 2, 2007)

Yaaaaaaaayyyyyyy - I've found the problem and fixed it.

It was as I, and Andrew P, suspected... a faulty receiver module. I took half of the car apart to find the CCU as I couldn't find a decent description of where to find it and pretty much knackered most of the interior trim in the process. I'm gonna let everyone else know how to get to the unit in a roadster so that they don't make the same mistake!! I will post pictures tomorrow in case anyone is interested and also to help anyone else who may encounter this problem. In the mean time however, the unit is actually really easy to get to and remove.

This is for a RHD 2000 TT Roadster:

standing at the rear of the car the unit is located on the right; behind the drivers seat. I found the best way to get to it was to remove the spare wheel cover and then the centre panel in the boot that touches the spare wheel cover. It is box shaped with an open front and is the furthest panel away from you in the boot as you stand at the back of the car:


















Once you have removed the boot box you will be able to see the audio amplifer facing you on the right hand side (you will probably have to crawl into the boot to see this!).You will be able to give yourself some more light by pushing the inspection panel out into the area below the rear window and you may even be able to remove the CCU from above although I didn't try this:


























Directly opposite the amp is the CCU:










It has five connectors in the side nearest you as you are in the boot. BEFORE REMOVING THE CCU, MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY POSITIVE SO THAT AS YOU PULL THE BOARD OUT, NOTHING SHORTS ON THE BODYWORK. The CCU PCB just slides straight out of its mount by pulling the PCB towards the left hand side of the car. Once the PCB is out of its mount you will need to remove the connectors by pressing their release clips and pulling sharply:










I found that there was some small corrosion on the PCB and connectors where there must be a slight leak; I can feel that the parcel shelf (if that's what it's called in a convertible?) is slightly damp. After cleaning up the connectors with some IPA and a fibre-tipped pen and also having to make a small repair to the PCB (after some serious cleaning as you'll notice the state of the receiver module above!) the unit worked!

Hope this helps someone else - I've just gotta fix that damned leak now!

Cheers

Rob


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## andrew.p (Jun 16, 2004)

Bit late in reading your post Rob but thanks for sharing. It bugged me that I couldn't find the module myself so at least now I know. You never know when it might come in handy!


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

Hi,

Bringing up an old post here.... I initially thought the problem with mine was the micro switch.. So after a few weeks of attempts and ordering bits to get at it... that wasn't the problem.... argh!!

This sounds a lot similar to the problem I have...

Only thing is I have a coupe... Does anyone know how to access this in a coupe?

Strangely enough, one of my keys doesn't work in the door, but does in this ignition..... is this common?!

Cheers
Dan


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

so your other key works in the door & in the ignition? have you compared the blades to make sure they are a perfect match for the cut profile?


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

Just checked and the key profiles are the same... It's strange..

One works in both the door and the ignition and the other key doesn't work in the door but it works in the ignition.....?!


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

if the cut profiles are the same then it should work in both ignition & the doors. Check to see if the key blade is bent or twisted at all. The ignition lock will be more worn than the door lock so a bent or twisted blade would push into that easier


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

The second key looks pretty straight... It lays flush against the other when I put them together... I'll have to check it in the passenger door lock as well...


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

spray some GT85 or WD40 in the lock


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

I'll have a go tomorrow, cheers!!


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

no worries, if there's no visible damage to the blade & it works in the ignition then it should work in the door


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## cavaye (Dec 10, 2013)

so the second key works in the passenger side, so I know the key is ok.... probably just needs a bit of WD40 in the locks....

Now to fix the central locking problem..... arrgghhhhhh


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## atyl1972 (Jun 27, 2014)

Rob-Edwards said:


> Hi,
> 
> sorry to bring an old post up but wondering if andrew.p got to the bottom of his problem?
> 
> ...


Hi i have had the same problem, bought a new key fob with no luck, tried all the ways explained on here and other places and the manual, and cannot get the remote to lock/unlock, any ideas?


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

did you buy the correct part number remote for your year TT?


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## Eve&amp;Mike (Nov 17, 2013)

My problem is similar, either my keys lock or unlock the car with no problem or they don't want to work at all! I've repeatedly tried all the tricks to resync them but after a short time of working they stop again. When unlocking the car in the door it does not turn the alarm off and lights flash, alarm would go off if it worked! But that's another problem.

I think I'm at the point of having to look at the unit. Does anyone know, if I take it out, can I still drive the car?


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## mattayusmax (Oct 29, 2016)

I've got a 2001 TT Quattro 1.8T and I think I've tried all the above, without success.

A week ago I had two keys - one of which was working the central locking fine.

A few days ago it stopped.

I had the batteries replaced. They said it was transmitting. But no joy when trying it on the car.

I've then gone through every iteration I think of the reprogramming sequence suggestions on here.

Can anyone help any further? I'm in Newcastle-under-Lyme, Staffs, if anyone can come sort it for me on the cheap!


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

This method is the proper procedure for resynchronising an original key back to the car.

1) make sure all doors are locked
2) press key unlock button once
3) manually unlock door with blade
4) open door & turned ignition onto 2nd position
5) after a couple of seconds turn ignition off & remove key
6) test remote


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## old225chap (Mar 21, 2015)

>Russ< said:


> I has a similar problem, was trying the resysnc process for ages! All it was that I had to lock/unlock the car on the passenger side....I was doing it on the drivers side.


Yes, even though this sounds daft, I`d failed to get mine working by following the procedures, and just out of desperation I tried this, and it worked! I think Audi must have put a `random` feature into their programming. Just for a laff!!!!! 
Vorsprung Durch................


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## rob333 (Dec 19, 2018)

Rob-Edwards said:


> Yaaaaaaaayyyyyyy - I've found the problem and fixed it.
> 
> It was as I, and Andrew P, suspected... a faulty receiver module. I took half of the car apart to find the CCU as I couldn't find a decent description of where to find it and pretty much knackered most of the interior trim in the process. I'm gonna let everyone else know how to get to the unit in a roadster so that they don't make the same mistake!! I will post pictures tomorrow in case anyone is interested and also to help anyone else who may encounter this problem. In the mean time however, the unit is actually really easy to get to and remove.
> 
> ...


Hi. I have a similar problem as above, both my key fobs have stopped working and I can't re-sync them anymore. There's no sign of corrosion on the PCB but there was a small amount on the pins on the red and orange/beige connectors on the side of the CCM. Does anyone know what those 2 connectors are connected to/do? Are they related to the central locking? Windows, roof, etc still work so I just want to make sure they are related to the central locking before replacing the unit.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Great write up and photos. When you say that the PCB pulls out do you mean the case it sits in is still bolted to the bulkhead ? TIA


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