# Badger5 build!



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Just dropped her off with Bill for a fair bit of work. I imagine this will be pretty transformative!

We're hoping for 350bhp, give or take.

The plan of action is:

AET-380 hybrid K04 turbo
Chinafold manifold
V2.2 TIP
FMIC
DW65 fuel pump
HG replacement
Complete refurb of the head, including a skim
Supertech exhaust valves
Water pump
Rifle-drilled forged rods
Big end bearing 
Possible piston rings
Possible vibratech mounts
Haldex service

Already has:
Badger5 v3 TIP + giant filter
Bosch 550cc injectors
3" down pipe
Phenolic intake gasket thingy
Cookbots, polybush rear front arm bushes, adjustable rear tie bars, AP coilovers, Michelin PS4 all round
Brembo LCR brakes

A bit of background:
I used to have an S3, which Bill did a stage 1 map on and was great until I drove it into another car.
I later bought this, which I had remapped by a fit and forget type chap since I couldn't find anyone local. I was later on told by a garage to replace the turbo as it was starting to sound like a dentists drill. So, I did. It was never any good really. Aggressive boost and not smooth at all. 
I eventually found Wak. He tried to get the best out of it but found it to be a very laggy turbo, behaving as if it was a hybrid. It would do nothing for ages and then finally hold good boost at the top end. We did some digging and realised I had bought a K04 copy and not an OEM K04. The solution was to get into the engine bay and tighten the actuator nut. This made one hell of a difference. This was a few months back and I had been meaning to go back to Wak ever since in order to get the map redone with the actuator rod tightened. 
Wak also installed new 550cc injectors for me. 
Whilst waiting for a good weekend to visit Wak, I was having the odd thing done here-and-there by a local garage to get the handling up to scratch. New Brembo LCR brakes fitted as well. Lots of work done badly by previous mechanics had to be redone by this new garage - who I still rate as great.

For a few months, I had noticed it being smoky. I assumed this was due to the decat. However one day at the garage it really puffed out a lot of white smoke and so I left it for testing. At the very least, there was a head gasket leak - diagnosed by testing for exhaust fumes in the coolant tank. I suspect the copy K04 was also toast and contributing to this.

The cost of a HG rebuild plus new turbo brought me to this forum again for advice and I think it was StuartDB who suggested I just go to Badger5 for n engine rebuild + K04 hybrid + chinafold. So here I am. Thanks Stuart!

Unfortunately I live miles south in Brighton so can't pop in to take photos but Bill has kindly offered to take some for me.

Here are some for starters!





































And the main attraction...


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Splendid


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## pc759 (Apr 10, 2011)

Jealous


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

excellent stuff, im looking forward to this :twisted:

your having done pretty much exactly the same as i did give or take a few bits ... i reused my rings as they were in a happy place and passed both compression and leakdown tests , he asked me if i wanted them changed but said if we can reuse them then do so as will also mean no running in so i was able to give it some stick on the way home etc :lol:

Im running the Vibratechnic road mounts and can highly recommend them , stiffen the engine and transmission up nicely with very little extra NVH ( feels normal to me now tbh ), i had these fitted before hand but are worth changing if yours are worn 

i forgot to ask him for photos of mine :roll:

Fingers crossed you make the figures but your doing everything right so should be good [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Just noticed , you still running the standard cat back :? if so will need to be changed as that will be a major restriction ...


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Christ, you're not messing about!

After all the work you've done/$ you've spent to get the running gear right, it's nice you're able to move on to engine upgrades.

Good luck and hope the result is brilliant! 

/Al


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Exciting times.. broom broom


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## Mcmtt (Dec 1, 2015)

Class- think you have made a great decision leaving it with bill! Will be watching this


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I'm watching this with glee


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

Car's in good hands 8)


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Thanks everyone 

Your input has been invaluable in getting me to this point.

I'm genuinely glad I listened to you all and took her to Bill. I'm sure my local garage would have done a good job but Bill is the pro and having it all done in one place is very reassuring.

I'm really glad that one team, supervised by Bill, will be doing all the work. Also glad that I didn't scrimp on anything - except the WMI - and went for the Supertech exhaust valves and FMIC. If it comes to it, then I'll have the Vibratech mounts.

One peculiar thing I did notive whilst driving the hire car to Bill's behind my bf driving my car was that the left rear tyre shoulder was easily visible, whilst the right was not. Both have 20mm spacers on. I mentioned this to Bill, who also could see it by eye and will have a look once it's up in the air. Hopefully nothing too strange going on!

My main worry about this build is the clutch. It's a 'stage 2' Black Diamond kevlar clutch rated for 30% over stock. It took 1000 miles of road driving to bed in and TBH I've never really been that impressed with it or felt very confident pulling away with it. If I had the chance, I certainly wouldn't buy it again. It would be be such a pain inthe arse for Bill to work his magic and only for this clutch not to be able to cope. It's never had a problem in 2/3/4 etc, only felt a little feeble pulling away in first. I remember driving a mk1 Civic back in the day, little 1.4 dual carb thing, which the previous owner had put a "sports clutch" on, and that thing just tore you off the line in a way that this kevlar thing certainly does not. Shame. If I have to put in a new clutch paddle then fine but FFS my wallet can only take so much! Anyway fingers crossed. At least if it does come to that then my local garage are more than capable, and I can wait another payday/week of rentboying.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

First run on the dyno:

I thought I was running more like 280bhp, which was based mainly on a previous map value of about 260 and then the addition of 500cc injectors + 3" down pipe. However, we know that this turbo is a piece of shit and so I'm not especially surprised.

In fact, I'm quite pleased about how much difference there will be after it's all done, i.e. 350 from 280 vs 350 from 260. Sweet!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

You did tell him that this mapping was around a weird and weak turbo plus you've manually tweaked up the wastegate after just to get it to this level! 
And I've not seen you post tweaks to review 

He'll get the best out of it though with a good turbo


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Haha I did indeed. I wouldn't tarnish your name with this naughty little car! :lol:

In fact I'll go back and add a little background to my original post (done). It's been quite a bumpy ride, eh?!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Poor Bill has found many a thing wrong with this silly car. It's been back and forth between several mechanics over the couple-or-so years I've had it. Some have been roadside morons who have cost me entire new clutches, some have been veritable garages but have made ridiculous mistakes/bodges eg using putty (!!!) in the bolt hole for the dogbone engine mount, and the latest have been great but have had to undo and redo a lot of work.

I take full responsibility for the shoddy sump repair. I had the coilovers too low and cracked it on a speedbump. Liquid metal has kept it going this long but clearly isn't a long-term solution!

I won't quote Bill without his permission but basically I have:

- a leaking sump 
- leaking oil onto wet spark plugs
- compression's okay, not superb but okay
- rear tie bar at a very funny angle 
- standard exhaust from decat back

Now, I had the rocker cover gasket done only a few months ago so god knows how that's leaking already but I suppose we'll find out soon enough.

Oh also the head has no code stamped on it. I hope that's not too much a bad thing. I was sure I saw BAM on it when I bought it but perhaps I'm thinking back to my old S3.

I wasn't aware that anything past the cat-back made much of a difference to power but this might be another dent in my wallet I see coming! :?

Oh well. A job worth doing is worth doing well.

Pictures for your general amusement...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Is that a seized rose joint?

Just get a new sump, mine had been re-tapped and continued to leak without including sealant, so whilst it's off?

Don't be too disappointed with your current dyno, it just adds to the drive for your modifications and badger 5 dyno is renowned for being accurate, hence why people say 350 lb/ft badger torque.

This is really exciting - how long do you reckon before you get it back to start running in?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Oh if only I knew what that was! Maybe! I'll let someone else answer that!

Yeah I probably should. I imagine Bill will suggest that. Worth getting a baffled one?

Not too fussed about the dyno at all. In fact, it means my target as advised by Bill is actually a lot more horses than I though ie even more of a benefit. Nice.

I've been given a rough two week timeframe.

Thanks for the idea Stuart. I'm blaming this all on you! :lol:


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

That rose joint is knackered, so you may have your car back before the speed trials in brighton, have you considered entering ?


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## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

Why do you say it's knackered, it may well be, but you can't tell from that photo, it's just that the yoke was tightened in that position.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

It looks like my rose joint did when it ripped my control arm's end.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

djscoventry said:


> Oh if only I knew what that was! Maybe! I'll let someone else answer that!
> 
> Yeah I probably should. I imagine Bill will suggest that. Worth getting a baffled one?
> 
> ...


I reckon your signature might change from 'a few bits and bobs..'


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

New control arms, new sump, new cat-back..... Sweet jesus when will it end?

Anyone need to buy a kidney?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > Oh if only I knew what that was! Maybe! I'll let someone else answer that!
> ...


 :lol: [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=help.gif]


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

imartyn said:


> Why do you say it's knackered, it may well be, but you can't tell from that photo, it's just that the yoke was tightened in that position.


It's a free moving joint the position it was in when tightened does not matter to the joint


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

djscoventry said:


> New control arms, new sump, new cat-back..... Sweet jesus when will it end?
> 
> Anyone need to buy a kidney?


You won't need a control arm *if* the rose joint is seized. The stock ones twist and snap I expect your cookbot (or whatever) were just twisted on the thread.

You work in a hospital if you start selling kidneys it might be frowned upon.


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## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > New control arms, new sump, new cat-back..... Sweet jesus when will it end?
> ...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

this is what my wheel did when the rose joint had seized and snapped one side of the stock control arm.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Just noticed , you still running the standard cat back :? if so will need to be changed as that will be a major restriction ...


Yeah Bill agrees. Any suggestions on a cat back system?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Orrr you could say, I work in a hospital so have easy access to kidneys 8)

Okay going to shoot off a slightly annoyed email about the tie bars. It had a four wheel alignment a week ago and noone said a word!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> That rose joint is knackered, so you may have your car back before the speed trials in brighton, have you considered entering ?


I've not heard of them. What do they entail?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If the rose joint is seized and twisted the adjustable control arm, it might have only happened the day before you noticed it. Or was it loose?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I've no idea, I'm afraid. I'll let Bill work his way round to that 

Hopefully it's not fully broken as it looks like I'll need my pennies for a cat back. Oh and the Vibratech mounts.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Engine tear down*

Some pretty photos that I only partially understand :lol:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Anyone know why the "viewed x times" things keeps coming up for some photos?


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Good to see the build progressing [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif] 
Link to cat back 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-STAINLESS- ... 4902.l9144
You might want to change your opening post to probable piston rings :?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Oh why d'ya say that? 

Are we allowed to buy ebay nameless stuff now? Has it been tried and tested? I was expecting more along the lines of custom 3" straight pipe etc!


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

There was a post about it the other week
Untested but had the wak approval from the pictures. 
There's a Blueflame cat-back taking up space in my dining room along with dp and decat, but it will get fitted just need to make a decission what I'm going to do turbo wise


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Anything Wak-approved gets the okay from me. I'll ask him some more about it.

What were you saying about the piston rings buddy?


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Just the fluid sitting on top of your pistons. Did Bill say anything?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Nope not yet. Only that compression testing was "okay".


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > Just noticed , you still running the standard cat back :? if so will need to be changed as that will be a major restriction ...
> ...


Yeah so the standard system will be a restriction with this turbo for sure , Backpressure is the enemy of these small frame turbo and what ever you can do to improve flow post turbo will help for sure... remember the engine has to shit it out before it can ingest anymore , so quicker out quicker in = better efficiency = more power :lol:

The best exhaust is no exhaust on a turbo but obviously not really possible on a road car :lol:

Depends on your budget on what you want to do... obviously a custom 3" system from the 3" decat back would be the best and is what i am having don on the 3rd september , will be having the 2.5" taper cut off the decat and made a true 3" back system to the back where it will split into 2 x 2.5" pipes to 4" tips , will be costing me £600 to give you an idea on price . i did see the ebay exhaust but not something im interested in tbh 

When i do get my exhaust fitted i will have for sale my Blueflame cat back which is 2.75" if your interested ? if money was tight and i wasn't able to stretch to a full custom system i would of done my second option which was keep the blueflame but get it modified at the point where it attaches to the decat as this is the restriction point having about a foot of 2.5" taper, would get this cut out and have a 3" to 2.75" section made which would 100% help flow and would probably be spot on tbh


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yeah that makes perfect sense. My rationale for not having a cat-back up until now was that it wouldn't add much besides a nice noise on a stock K04. Obviously now we're in different territory, and a territory that I was half forced into and so rushed it a little bit.

I won't be able to wait until September but thank you for your kind offer. I live a bloody mile from Bill so wouldn't want to keep going back and forth for remapping etc, pluc collecting the exhaust.

I think I just want to do it all in one go, so I might as well go the whole hog and 3" the fucker. Might have to put it on finance or a credit card. I'll ask Bill whether he would point me to a local (to him) company to do a custom whilst it's up there, or what he would recommend. I suppose it would be easier to buy a bolt-on and have it shipped to Bill but I'll see what he suggests. I feel a bit bad having sent it up there with a stock cat-back actually. I just hope it doesn't delay the project by a significant amount, not that I'm in a major rush to have it back but I am pretty excited and also am paying for a rental car - which, by the way, is a hideous mint-green Fiat 500. It hates me and I hate it too.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> Yeah that makes perfect sense. My rationale for not having a cat-back up until now was that it wouldn't add much besides a nice noise on a stock K04. Obviously now we're in different territory, and a territory that I was half forced into and so rushed it a little bit.
> 
> I won't be able to wait until September but thank you for your kind offer. I live a bloody mile from Bill so wouldn't want to keep going back and forth for remapping etc, pluc collecting the exhaust.
> 
> I think I just want to do it all in one go, so I might as well go the whole hog and 3" the fucker. Might have to put it on finance or a credit card. I'll ask Bill whether he would point me to a local (to him) company to do a custom whilst it's up there, or what he would recommend. I suppose it would be easier to buy a bolt-on and have it shipped to Bill but I'll see what he suggests. I feel a bit bad having sent it up there with a stock cat-back actually. I just hope it doesn't delay the project by a significant amount, not that I'm in a major rush to have it back but I am pretty excited and also am paying for a rental car - which, by the way, is a hideous mint-green Fiat 500. It hates me and I hate it too.


Yeah ive seen that a lot of times that changing the standard exhaust system isn't worth it but thats not true ,they are ok for standard but that is about it imo , stage 1 or 2 you should be looking at least at a 2.75" cat back if not bigger . Obviously the biggest restriction is the standard downpipe and cat but once changed to 3" the next restriction is the rest of the exhaust system especially if it is only 2.5"...

No problem , totally understand and tbh now is the best time to change the whole thing to 3" ( would call bill today and get him on it ) that way will get the best out of it when it gets mapped at the end 

Here is an example of changing from a 2.75" to a 3" cat back .. GT30 car but gains are still relative to give you an idea of how important exhaust size is : https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd/pos ... 0195593060


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Nothing is ever straight forward on these cars, I would have been more surprised if things were going without a hitch... Do not panic.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

TT Tom TT said:


> Nothing is ever straight forward on these cars, I would have been more surprised if things were going without a hitch... Do not panic.


Yeah they are all getting on a bit now so to be expected tbh ..

Mine went pretty straight forward as i expected apart from one thing which was the headwork ... i originally didn't plan to touch the head was just going to be taken off to access the rods as the car didn't smoke etc so thought all was good until it was taken off and found to have worn exhaust valve guides :roll: Bill called me and said its going to need a head refresh to get it good (£595) and thats when i asked if there as anything else we can do while its apart to which he suggested to fit the Inconel Supertech exhaust valves so went ahead and done that ... an unexpected £900 extra but happy its done now and no regrets


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Jay-225 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > Nothing is ever straight forward on these cars, I would have been more surprised if things were going without a hitch... Do not panic.
> ...


I had you in mind a little when saying this sentence as yours has probably been the most problem-free stress-free experience yet and as you said even you ended up having something unexpected occurring!


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

TT Tom TT said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > TT Tom TT said:
> ...


Yeah so the head and the Turbo issue before hand were my 2 unexpected things that happened but both were sorted without too much headache so was all good in the end 

All these cars are getting on now with even the youngest being 12 years old ( most are nearly 20 ) with around 100k miles + so to find things starting to wear out once the engine has been cracked open should be no surprise to anyone . mine is 14 years old (53) and covered 109k miles yet the valves guides were worn , original turbo was cracked in 3 places and turbo to manifold gasket was also blown... just how it is with cars of this age and mileage :roll:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yeah I've suggested to Bill that we go ahead with a 3" back. It's a cost I wasn't expecting but it'll be worth it in the end.

Hopefully, in addition to the Vibratechs, there will be no other big surprises. Thankfully I've already paid for the majority of this upfront.

I trust Bill, obviously, and there is no point doing this half-arsed as that's just a waste of money.

Bill has suggested Cobra, BCS Powervalve, or Toyosport. All 3". Any thoughts from you guys on this?


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Powervalve 8)


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

I'll help you spend your money Dan


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> Yeah I've suggested to Bill that we go ahead with a 3" back. It's a cost I wasn't expecting but it'll be worth it in the end.
> 
> Hopefully, in addition to the Vibratechs, there will be no other big surprises. Thankfully I've already paid for the majority of this upfront.
> 
> ...


Bill is 100% trustworthy , i transferred him just over £2k about a month before going up as i didn't want the cash sitting around as i would of dug into it :lol: , paid the remaining £900 for the head work once the car was done , no issues at all 

The BCS Powervalve is a good system or if time and cash is getting tight go for the toyosports one on ebay ( £289 ? ) get it sent straight to Bills and ask him to get the 2.5" bits cut off the ends of the exhaust and decat and have a 3" joiner in place ...


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Conrods and pistons out*

So it turns out that the smoking issues were due to buggered guides and stem seals.

Oh and Bill WILL be putting in new piston rings.

More photos for ya


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

TT-Dru said:


> I'll help you spend your money Dan


Haha thanks Dru :? :lol:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I can't seem to find the BCS as a cat-back-only system. Help me out?

TBH cash is a limiting factor. Are the toyosports exhausts not good? How do they sound compared to the Powervalve or the Cobra? I don't want to sound like a rudeboy. I want a deep rumble.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

The powervalve is a jekyll and hyde affair so can't be compared to one trick systems.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Do elaborate buddy


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah I've suggested to Bill that we go ahead with a 3" back. It's a cost I wasn't expecting but it'll be worth it in the end.
> ...


Yep I totally trust Bill and have already handed over nearly £3500. Better with him than in my pocket!


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

The PV system has a boost activated valve that shut's so the gas's bypass's the backbox un restricted or silenced. hence, jekyll & hyde.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Powervalve without a doubt if you don't mind the extra expense.


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## Pow3rL3ss (Dec 15, 2008)

BCS powervalve all the way - mines 3 inch inc downpipe and the 1st one they made  it has the 100 cell cat as well


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Powervalve does indeed sound fabulous. However with the already added unexpected costs I have to decide between Scorpion and Toyosport.

Noisewise, I'd prefer a deep rumble, or the jetplane noise from flooring a Porsche in a tunnel - oh memories of Hawaii - rather than rudeboy noise.

Would you receommened the Scorpion of the Toyosport?

Thanks!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Buggered valves and stem seals! 
On a head with ground off engine code!

Ground off engine codes are a sign of a rebuilt head so sounds like a bad rebuild job whenever that head was put on!

This is why you've done the right thing using a trusted source.

The exhaust post was based on the pics , the systems looked well built, they could be boomy but that may be less of an issue in a Roadster


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I think I bought a lemon two years a go. Thankfully it's in the right hands now mechanically speaking and will exit a new car.

Regarding the exhausts, I'm thinking toyosport. I spoke to another TT owner who is very happy with his. Will order today.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Ooh shiny!*

Forged and rifle-drilled new rods, new piston rings, cleaned-up pistons.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

sweet....


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## damoeire33 (Mar 26, 2018)

Can't wait and it's not even my car lol

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yep me neither! I'm so impatient too!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Little update, the engine started to go back in yesterday (or maybe the day before).

The 3" Toyosports cat-back exhaust arrived but was a poor fit even by their standards, according to Bill, so it had to be cut up a bit and welded. Sounds like it's in place now.

Pretty little photo showing the new exhaust manifold and AET-380 turbo in place.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

looking very tasty !

hope you're not reusing that timing belt tho ?

mani and bottom end are for next year on mine i suspect.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Nah new timing belt, head gasket, water pump etc.

Remind me, what turbo are you running atm? Time to go for Bill's hybrid?


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

djscoventry said:


> Little update, the engine started to go back in yesterday (or maybe the day before).
> 
> The 3" Toyosports cat-back exhaust arrived but was a poor fit even by their standards, according to Bill, so it had to be cut up a bit and welded. Sounds like it's in place now.
> 
> Pretty little photo showing the new exhaust manifold and AET-380 turbo in place.


Looking really good......the one thread I look out for to see your next post, pictures, update etc.
Exciting times!!!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Thanks Brian. I get super excited too when Bill sends me an update photo!

Not sure what the current state of play is, as I don't want to pester him on the daily. Hopefully will get an update soon, which I will share with you all.

So damn excited to drive this thing - carefully!

One thing that is freaking me out is the method for switching between maps, eg normal driving, fast road, is the fact that you floor the accelerator and then tap the brake to chage between maps. Bill assures me this is really simple but it sounds like learning to drive all over again for me :lol:


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## matzo (Oct 1, 2014)

Never understood the need for switchable maps, who thinks I need less power right now ? Just drive the car according to the 
Road conditions etc


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

That's a fair question. I'll raise it with Bill.

Minor update:
Engine should be fired up at the end of today, all going well
Work starts on the FMIC next Tuesday

It's getting there! I wonder how long the mapping process takes...


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Has all this work been done with engine still in the Car ?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Nope it was taken out for a full rebuild


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> Thanks Brian. I get super excited too when Bill sends me an update photo!
> 
> Not sure what the current state of play is, as I don't want to pester him on the daily. Hopefully will get an update soon, which I will share with you all.
> 
> ...


TBH you wont be switching maps while driving , it probably can be done but not advisable imo ... if i need to change the map i pull over to do it as you need to pretty much full throttle and tap the brake , the eml will flash a number of times to confirm which map its on ... so 1 flash map 1 , 5 flash map 5 etc etc . 99% of the time mine is set to map 1 which is the most aggressive so you get boost as early as possible, map 2 is more progressive boost build to 26psi ( Bill says it will make a touch more power on this map ) , map 3 & 4 are less boost again until map 5 which is actuator pressure so 1 bar ( perfect for if i run out of meth :lol: )



djscoventry said:


> Nope it was taken out for a full rebuild


Pretty sure the bottom end and gearbox stay in the car , head and sump is removed and will allow access to everything needed to be changed ...

Should be done by next Friday by the sounds of it


----------



## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

matzo said:


> Never understood the need for switchable maps, who thinks I need less power right now ? Just drive the car according to the
> Road conditions etc


It makes perfect sense. I myself have 3:

- WMI map
- Petrol only map
- Valet mode (never know when you might need it)

What if you run out of WMI fluid but need to put your foot down? Or what if you need a friend to drive your car and don't want them ragging it and putting it into a hedge?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

TT Tom TT said:


> What if you run out of WMI fluid but need to put your foot down? Or what if you need a friend to drive your car and don't want them ragging it and putting it into a hedge?


I have a switch in the cabin to disable the n75! 

However a Garrett on crack pressure is still plenty of fun!


----------



## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Wak said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > What if you run out of WMI fluid but need to put your foot down? Or what if you need a friend to drive your car and don't want them ragging it and putting it into a hedge?
> ...


My point exactly! My maps are pretty much on a switch too, they use the cruise control button before you turn the engine over. Needle at 0 rpm = valet mode, needle at 1k rpm = petrol, needle at 2k rpm = WMI.

Valet mode limits the engine revs to 3.5K redline at which point my TT is only producing 215bhp. I'd say not even as fast as a stock TT but with that said it's over 200kg lighter so I'd be lying :lol:

As an aside, thank you for answering my clutch thread with your own thoughts Wak 8).


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The beauty of having these multi maps is you can choose a quiet cruising map if driving 90% motorway, and maybe get 28-30mpg instead of 22-24mpg.

Your car is going to be very special indeed, do you have to drive really slow for a few hundred miles then return?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks Brian. I get super excited too when Bill sends me an update photo!
> ...


Ah okay. That sounds much more sensible than what I had in mind! I'll probably just leave it on aggressive and drive appropriately for the situation but will chat more with Bill about this when I collect.

Not 100% sure about what stays in the car. I'm certainly no mechanice. Again I'd have to check with Bill. There was a photo previously, showing what had come out, but I'm not sure if that showed everything. I know the gearbox isn't touched, as we had a discussion about throwing a Sachs paddle in there 'whilst it's all open' and Bill said that the gearbox wasn't being worked on/easily available so didn't make financial sense to swap unless the current clutch fails. Fingers crossed.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Engine running*

She's alive!

Difficult to articulate but the engine note just sounds more healthy. Difficult to hear on a laptop but the exhaust sounds a lot more bassy too.

Still FMIC and mapping to come.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxlsBrU ... e=youtu.be


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> The beauty of having these multi maps is you can choose a quiet cruising map if driving 90% motorway, and maybe get 28-30mpg instead of 22-24mpg.
> 
> Your car is going to be very special indeed, do you have to drive really slow for a few hundred miles then return?


Ooh great point!

I'm honestly not sure. I know we did go for new piston rings so perhaps? I'll check with Bill. I hope not return! Gloucester is bloody miles away!

There are several modified - at least visually - TTs on my commute to the new job so I'm looking forward to testing them :lol:

The body work and wheels are looking pretty tired so that's next on the agenda. Mind you, this has almost bankrupted me so it might have to wait a while.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> *Engine running*
> 
> She's alive!
> 
> ...


Sounds healthy that does  , also looks tidy under the engine bay ... Exhaust looks to be sitting nicely in the cutouts also and sounds pretty nice on idle ... looking all good so far


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

experts really are experts - it took me 2 hours to take the manifold off the head today (whilst on a bench - well coffee table) - thats 12 nuts   although I do still have my turbo connected, so some are a little difficult to reach.

I'm looking to spend about 6 months doing what Badger5 will do in a few days  I must say I do like the look of tight fitting 4 inch tail pipes on these TTs and paintwork always looks a bit dull on videos - but surprisingly bright on photo's people will only see the back of your car anyway after collection, unless you are at LLF - this'll be me by the time I have a rebuilt engine  --- > https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0S5w- ... ni8ZMzgqkg


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > *Engine running*
> ...


Yeah it looks great so far. I'll be swapping all the blue hoses for black at some point to make it a little more subtle


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> experts really are experts - it took me 2 hours to take the manifold off the head today (whilst on a bench - well coffee table) - thats 12 nuts   although I do still have my turbo connected, so some are a little difficult to reach.
> 
> I'm looking to spend about 6 months doing what Badger5 will do in a few days  I must say I do like the look of tight fitting 4 inch tail pipes on these TTs and paintwork always looks a bit dull on videos - but surprisingly bright on photo's people will only see the back of your car anyway after collection, unless you are at LLF - this'll be me by the time I have a rebuilt engine  --- > https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0S5w- ... ni8ZMzgqkg


You're a brave man. I've gone in completely the other direction and am leaving everything to the professionals. I have neither the time nor skill set to be repairing/modifying my car any more. Too busy, too dumb. Remember when I tried to swap out my down pipe? :lol:

The paintwork has a couple of areas of peeled lacquer and there a tonne of scratches on the boot lid from when I had to take the spoiler off to stop rain getting in, and did a poor and frustrated job of it. Hey ho. These things can wait.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

as an amateur - it's silly little annoying costly errors like forgetting to remove the easy to remove EGT - and yanking the wire out the probe when lifting the head away ( they are £300 new :| ) my memory is too bad to remember things I have forgotten.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> my memory is too bad to remember things I have forgotten.


 :lol:

I did enjoy attempting to do some work myself but I often just ended up making a mess. I just don't have the spare time sadly. Shame it's so tough on the wallet. Hopefully after this job, I won't _need_ anything else doing for a while.


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## _Bash_ (Apr 18, 2018)

Very nice djscoventry well done.



TT Tom TT said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> > TT Tom TT said:
> ...


May I interrupt this thread to quickly ask what you are using to switch your maps? Please point me in the right direction and I'll do the research.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

The cruise control button on the left-hand indicator stalk, don't ask how you do this or which soft-ware you use as I didn't map my own car. Unicorn Motor Developments in Stockport did it for me.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

> May I interrupt this thread to quickly ask what you are using to switch your maps? Please point me in the right direction and I'll do the research.


Go to nefmoto forums, you can install multiple maps on the same ecu.

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/i ... pic=1556.0


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Regarding the powertrack insert*

Bill has recommended that we don't use the powertrack insert that I ordered a few weeks back. He's not a fan! Now obviously I trust and value his opinion but I also value the opinion of those on here.

What do you reckon guys?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Not broken, just poorly adjusted. I'll be firing off an annoyed email to the wheel alignment guys from two weeks ago...

Isn't Bill good?










[attachment=0]0F33647A-109F-4B35-AF74-05F681427DD4.jpeg[/attachment


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

does this correction on the rear tie bar now mean the camber has been changed?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I would imagine so, as well as other adjustments. I've asked the wheel alignment place to redo it for free. How can they have missed/caused this?!


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

It's a result the rj is good but personally i would'nt bother asking to have the alignement re-done, plenty of decent garages about, it's finding one that can be a headache.


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

It's not just me who has bad experiences with garages then. It's why I try to do as much as possible myself.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Sadly, I have neither the skills nor the time to fix proper stuff


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Exhaust and FMIC update*

Update time!

The FMIC and pipework have been primed ready to be painted black tomorrow. I hadn't actually gotten around to asking Bill to do this but he read my mind!










The Toyosport exhaust was an especially bad fit, so Bill had to add a vband to replace the three-bolt flange, allowing the front section to be rotated into the correct position. I'm complaining to Toyo so Bill took these photos for me.



















Not sure when it will be ready for collection. Crossing my fingers for this weekend but I've yet to check this with Bill.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

nice to see a cheaky view of their alloy welding onto the crash bar for the FMIC, thats smart.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> *Exhaust and FMIC update*
> 
> Update time!
> 
> ...


Looking very good that mate 

Nice to see he has done a proper job on the exhaust and got rid of the shitty 2.5" restriction so its a true 3" straight through [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Looks almost done bar the intercooler but doubt it will take more than a day to get fitted then its onto mapping which will take a few hours or so i think plus i imagine he needs the space in the garage so reckon you will have it back by weekend as long as everything goes smooth 

Am getting my exhaust made and fitted next Monday but am getting the car dynoed on Saturday so i can get a before and after on the exhaust work using the same rollers ...


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Just had a thought , how old is your fuel pump ? may need to budget a little extra for a DW65V if the oem one is getting on and cant supply the fuel this thing is gonna need ... will become apparent while mapping if it is dying or not :roll:


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

to be honest, its a no brainer, why spend so much money for this kind of power and not factor in a fuel pump ? 8)


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Jay-225 said:


> Just had a thought , how old is your fuel pump ? may need to budget a little extra for a DW65V if the oem one is getting on and cant supply the fuel this thing is gonna need ... will become apparent while mapping if it is dying or not :roll:


I've read some alarming reports of the dw65v having quality issues and not flowing well.

An alternative pump seems to be one of the ttrs pumps I gather...?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> *Regarding the powertrack insert*
> 
> Bill has recommended that we don't use the powertrack insert that I ordered a few weeks back. He's not a fan! Now obviously I trust and value his opinion but I also value the opinion of those on here.
> 
> What do you reckon guys?


He's the guy you're paying to give you the benefit of his knowledge; at the very least, I would leave the Haldex standard until you've completed a few months running in time with the Badger5 work


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

alexgreyhead said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > Just had a thought , how old is your fuel pump ? may need to budget a little extra for a DW65V if the oem one is getting on and cant supply the fuel this thing is gonna need ... will become apparent while mapping if it is dying or not :roll:
> ...


I know Wak had a dodgy pump but on the other hand ive had one fitted knocking on for 2 years now and it has remained perfect throughout...

Does the TTRS fuel pump fit in the mk1 ? ive not looked into it tbh as this DW65V has been perfect for me


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The DW65 is a straight swap into the swirl pot isn't it? pricey though £220 + half hour fitting.. this is really interesting for me as I was going to add injectors and pump after rods, manifold and hybrid turbo running on actuator - but I am unsure how to log the requirement ~ is it injector duty cycle?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

We already have plans to drop in a dw65


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

This car is going to be amazing.

Just needs a respray next....


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

alexgreyhead said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > *Regarding the powertrack insert*
> ...


Thanks buddy


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

I installed this one 2 weeks ago:
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/HFP-265LPH-AWD- ... 2757007056

Purpose was E85, I met no issue so far, installation is pretty easy if you are not a smoker!


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Re the pump, this is the discussion thread I saw about the DW65v having some issues - it's just one discussion thread though, and the pumps have a good reputation (I'm considering getting one for Shed if I go FI).

Also worth noting that they're talking about R32 turbos so their fuel flow requirements would probably be a bit higher than you'd need:

https://www.r32oc.com/topic/243090-hpa- ... try2564322

On that thread they mention the RS4 pump as an alternative.

(All just my 0.00002p-worth from browsing t'internet, not from personal experience, so best taken with a bucket of salt  ).

/Al


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> This car is going to be amazing.
> 
> Just needs a respray next....


Needs a respray for sure, although I'm not sure about the lime green. It's not a Lamborghini! Would love another coat of black. Also needs a small patch of roof inspecting and potentially patching up before winter, although luckily this is teeny.

Probably lots of other little things too but my wallet needs a rest, in fact maybe a spell in intensive care.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > *Exhaust and FMIC update*
> ...


Straight 3" indeed! Should be pretty loud :lol:

Good luck with the exhaust buddy. Let us know how it goes.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Running in time*

It's come time to run her in before the mapping process, presumably because new rings were used.


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## damoeire33 (Mar 26, 2018)

Tell bill to hurry up I can't wait much longer!!
Lol
I've fallen out of love with my "project" thanks to this build....

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Exciting times, at least you know that you won't be the first drive. Pretty brutal, but there will be no holding back on the dyno when it's ready, and there's nowhere to hide. You really have done the right thing getting Badger5 to do everything - total responsibility in every moving part in the engine.

You should go there to watch the dyno... I'm sure it'll be video'd in any case. Listen to the first full blast from turbo, downpipe and sports exhaust. If you've still got your decat fitted maybe some flames on the rundown?

I would be shitting myself driving home the first time, like getting a new coat and expecting to slip over.



> Probably lots of other little things too but my wallet needs a rest, in fact maybe a spell in intensive care.


Just do some 'bank shifts' to make up the missing cash. Your wallet can have a well deserved rest after getting this done, the paint can wait i'm sure


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Regarding the fuel pump, I've read that the dw65 is rated up to about 400bhp. Not sure how true this is but hopefully mine will be fine as I'm not aiming for this kind of figure.

I'd love to be there for the mapping day. Sadly work commitments mean I won't be able to, unless I take a cheeky last-minute day of annual leave... Work can be a bit funny about this. Something about patient safety blah blah :lol: Just kidding. We have good staff levels this week so perhaps. I've asked Bill when he's going to start the mapping process so we'll see.

I'm getting really excited now. And nervous to drive it. Will it be a whole new beast? With nearly another 100bhp, I imagine so. I'll certainly be taking it easy for the first little while. The drive home is about three hours so that should give me some time to get used to it. My boyfriend is probably coming with me to collect, as I have to drop off the hideous Fiat 500 rental car. He used to get scared enough when it was running 260bhp so let's see how he copes! :twisted:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

PS can everyone say a little prayer for my clutch? It's a Black Diamond Kevlar but who knows if it will cope with this new torque.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Some photos of the FMIC fitment


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Mapping update*

Mapping began yesterday but a plastic flange on the cylinder head was found to be leaking and was replaced this morning. Bill is about to start mapping again soon. I'm not sure whether this means it will be finished today but everyone please cross your fingers!


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

djscoventry said:


> *Running in time*
> 
> It's come time to run her in before the mapping process, presumably because new rings were used.


Got to love Bill's rollers hehe! 
Would love to hear your new setup on them! 8) sound fooking sweet I bet!

Super fast progress with this build, it's going to be awesome!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Mapping done!*

So I was hoping for 350bhp but settling in my mind for a bit less...

Let's just say I'm happy with/scared of the results


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

That's a brilliant figure. Enjoy!!

Edit: mis-read the graph as I was busy stuffing a baguette in my moosh whilst trying to internet... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

366bhp
445Nm holy crap!! :lol:


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> *Mapping done!*
> 
> So I was hoping for 350bhp but settling in my mind for a bit less...
> 
> ...


Yeah you've got to he happy with that figure for sure... I'm very impressed considering it's not running meth , excellent stuff 

Think I might just take my exhaust off when I get home, poxy thing is obviously holding mine back [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Clutch held up then it seems ?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's a mega result, as said, no WMI either


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## Pow3rL3ss (Dec 15, 2008)

Good result, will be a fun drive home!!!!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

That is a great result considering others have needed WI to get similar.

I'd put it down to having a fresh solid engine build supporting the turbo must be holding good timing without WI. 

The 3" exhaust is the thing too....... hmmmm I'll wait for Jay to get his done and think about this....


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yep I'm very happy! I have no idea how it's going to drive. Needless to say, I'm going to be careful to start with, and probably for a while.

Bill took it for a road test and hasn't mentioned any clutch issues so hopefully it'll hold out.

He did recommend considering water methanol at some point in the future, to keep EGTs low and generally support the engine. I certainly can't for now, so hope it will be okay without for a while. I imagine so, otherwise he wouldn't be handing it back to me.

I collect TOMORROW!


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Top job, you must be well chuffed with that


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

amazing job - what a whirlwind.

you must be happy as..


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

It's also really nice to have been able to follow Djs' car's journey over the last few months - it must be nice to be able to look back and see how your car's come along, Mister Coventry? 

/Al


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

djscoventry said:


> Yep I'm very happy! I have no idea how it's going to drive. Needless to say, I'm going to be careful to start with, and probably for a while.
> 
> Bill took it for a road test and hasn't mentioned any clutch issues so hopefully it'll hold out.
> 
> ...


Gonna be Night and day difference tbh , you have gained over 100bhp :lol: Going to be a seriously quick car now [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Bill has done a fantastic job on that intercooler... really am impressed with that as he has also managed to keep the aliens in while having a big cooler in place... most would of just got rid of the aliens to make their life easier with fitting.

Your clutch should be fine i reckon , obviously need to have a bit of mechanical sympathy and lay off the 1st gear launching etc but once rolling hammer the f*!k out of it and should be good, thats how mine gets treated anyway :wink:

Yeah WMI will make it even better while keeping it safe at the same time , will be able to ramp up the timing and make more power :lol: lots of other benefits to it as well like lowering egts and inlets temps etc etc . highly recommend it 

Enjoy the drive home tomorrow :twisted:


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## damoeire33 (Mar 26, 2018)

Fantastic result. Delighted for you!

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I know its a small point but did you get the JR open cone air filter Bill usually sells with his TIP and Heat Shields?


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

What a result.........looking forward to hear how it drives once you collect it.


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## matzo (Oct 1, 2014)

Bet someone didn't sleep as too excited


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

Is it empty wallet time ? Beans on toast for the next 6months.
But worth it I bets :mrgreen:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Sorry for the poor replies. I'll get back to all the questions as soon as I have a laptop in front of me and not just a phone 

On my way now to collect, ETA 1PM. Can't wait to see the back of this hideous Fiat!

Thankfully I'm paid in full already. I gave Bill as much money up front as I could, a little more along the way, and even had to borrow a few hundred from the boyfriend. Ouch! It'll all be worth it, I'm sure. The concept of having a car with a new engine and hopefully nothing to go wrong for a good while is nearly as exciting as all the extra power! (Nearly.)


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

So how was the drive home  i take it you made it back ok


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*First impressions*

Home!

What a bloody long way. Totally worth it though. When I got there, the engine was started up and I had a chance to hear the exhaust in person. The note is actually great for a cheap exhaust. Very deep with a little growl. On the motorway, it is a little boomy but not too bad. Overall I'm very happy with the exhaust. Bill assured me it's 3" all the way though, so no restrictive sections.

The engine itself just sounded very healthy on tick over.

I was then talked through the maps. 1 is the most aggressive, 3 a little smoother to boost, and 5 cuts the actuator. I'm not 100% sure about the others but have a photo of the profiles - attached.

It turns out that I never had a head gasket leak. Haha! It was the valve stem seals being badly fitted and leaking fumes. Bill and his colleague, I forget his name, told me that the car has got a bit of a funny history. It's had a new head fitted at some point in the past, with poorly fitted stem seals. Lots of rounded off and threaded bolts they had to work around.

So time to say thanks and go off for a drive. My first little trip was around the periphery of the town, to see how it was in the lower gears before hitting the motorway home. First impressions: it seemed very solid but also very eager to pull. I didn't floor it for obvious reasons, ie not wanting to fly into (another) tree. It pulled really nicely in 3rd and 4th.

Once on the motorway, I was able to test 5th and 6th a little. Pedal to the floor in 5th and again it feels very solid but with a very smooth lump of power. I soared past everything else with ease, and had to work hard not to hit 100.

Towards the end of the journey, I was able to try the lower gears out. I drove through Ascot, so plenty of fancy cars around. A BMW E46 (I think) M3 was soon in the rear view mirror. The lower gears were obviously a lot more rapid than 5 and 6 but still a very smooth delivery of power, much less aggressive than the 260bhp borne of a tweaked actuator nut. The power is so smooth that I was getting surprised by the numbers on the speedo and often hit the brake to slow down.

Got home, left it for a half hour, and then went out for a quick spin with the other half. He was pretty impressed! Also enjoying the exhaust note. One slight hiccup, some clutch slipping in 2-4th gear. Hmm. Hopefully this will settle down with some more use.

Overall impression after the first drive: an engine that feels very smooth and solid, with tonnes of power. Fun to have a big exhaust too. I'm super happy!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

alexgreyhead said:


> It's also really nice to have been able to follow Djs' car's journey over the last few months - it must be nice to be able to look back and see how your car's come along, Mister Coventry?
> 
> /Al


Absolutely. An complete pleasure to take advice from all of you and to share the build once it had started


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> I know its a small point but did you get the JR open cone air filter Bill usually sells with his TIP and Heat Shields?


I already had a JR filter from my previous Badger5 TIP. Which reminds me, I left it at Bill's! I was planning on selling it. Oops.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Excellent post.. well the head would have had to come off to fix the stem seals anyway. Which did start this amazing journey. Enjoy your weekend driving..


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> Excellent post.. well the head would have had to come off to fix the stem seals anyway. Which did start this amazing journey. Enjoy your weekend driving..


I'm certainly glad I was going by the presumption of HG failure. Like you say, it brought me here 

I've a little work to do and then head out in the sun for a drive with the roof down. Glorious.


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## matzo (Oct 1, 2014)

When I got my TT the maf needed replacing and doing that instantly gave it back the power it should have, unfortunately in doing that the clutch began to slip in higher gears. I couldn't live with that so had it replaced. Once they start it only ever gets worse. Shop round I got mine done for £850 including the dmf.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yep I agree it probably needs changing. Thing is, I'm absolutely skint now, in fact I owe my other half £700. Hey ho.

I think I'll drop in a Sachs 4 puck organic like Bill recommends for this kind of power.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

My favourite build by far

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

HOGG said:


> My favourite build by far


Glad to have provided some entertainment  and thanks for your advice along the way!

What would you see done next on this car? WMI? New clutch?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> What would you see done next on this car?


I know you're not asking me, but for my 0.0000002p-worth, I think you should invest a few hundred £ of super unleaded and take your other half on a few weekend tours around the UK to enjoy the car 

I don't mean that in a patronising way - it's just that the trap of spending all one's time and money changing stuff rather than just enjoying the car like you (I) did the day I drove it home from the garage tends to take over a bit.

Or maybe that's just me - I've definitely not been enjoying Shed for the fun of driving her enough lately, so as soon as the exhaust is sorted I'll be putting some miles on her 

(Have fun whatever you do next  )

/Al


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

_a project is a project - so always has to move forward._

You dont need water meth injection at the moment it coming into winter, and you certainly dont want a specific map relying on it. there's a reason badger5 charges so much for the FMIC - it is effective. why not start getting into logging your car then you can make your own judgement on whether you think you need more cooling air by reviewing the Intake Air Temperatures, or consider a HPA to control the quattro balance and maybe do a track day?

If your clutch is actually slipping, then it will only last a few weeks. you might just be wheel spinning with so much torque you think the clutch is slipping, I assume the traction control has been mapped out, or maybe it keeps kicking in?

I expect you probably need to learn to drive this car over a few months before adding more power  I am sure there are loads of tricks to getting the most out of it - please be careful  broom broom


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

The clutch life maybe extended if you adjust your driving style treat the go pedal like it's a volume button not a sledge hammer, get out and enjoy the car whilst the weather is still decent


----------



## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Hope you dont mind me poping these up Dan ? just seems relevant in this thread as we have similar stuff done 

So got my car rerun again yesterday so a can get a before and after graph for the 3" exhaust work vs the 2.5/2.75" thats currently fitted , this was run at Surrey Rolling Road which is a lot closer to me than Badger5. it made 354bhp 330lb/ft so very close to what it made at B5 with the torque being a little higher which is what i expected .. BHP is bang on point on both roller tbh . Will return on the 22nd to get it rerun with the new system


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Badger5 dyno is famous for being stingy compared to others, what turbo and manifold do you have fitted jay?


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> Badger5 dyno is famous for being stingy compared to others, what turbo and manifold do you have fitted jay?


The torque is a little lower than other places but BHP is spot on i think on badgers rollers , wont be pub bragging figures but will be realistic and give you an idea of what cars it will compare against 

I have the same Manifold and turbo as Dan just fitted so the AET 380 with Chinafold...

full spec is :

Pec balanced forged rods 
Supertech Inconel exhaust valves 
Aet 380 turbo ( K04 Hybrid )
Sem inlet with 60mm tb
Ported chinafold exh manifold
80mm tip v2.2
8" k&n on a 6" Velocity stack
Aem WMI with dual nozzles (250cc & 180cc)
Forge intercooler
Forge 007p
Pipewerx 3" downpipe and decat
2.75" blueflame cat back
dw65v fuel pump
Bosch 550cc injectors
standard clutch & dmf
Vibratechnics road mounts
maybe a few other bits I have forgotten .

The exhaust system is my restriction at this level as it is currently 3" into 2.5" to 2.75" so less than ideal for 350+ but will be getting changed Monday for a custom made 3" straight through system which will make it much more efficient (increase VE) and increase power as a result


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

That's very similar to djs ( posh downpipe mind )
How's it been on stock clutch? So it looks like I should be replacing the exhaust valves too, I won't hijack djs's thread. But after my 2.5k allen bit mistake, this is the same(ish) route for me. Although I'm hoping to stagger the completion, running on actuator until I upgrade injectors and pump, then only mapping after cat back.

Assuming mines completed it'll be interesting to see sports cat versus decat?

I was looking at PEC rods, I assume they are rifle drilled?


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

alexgreyhead said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > What would you see done next on this car?
> ...


Hi Al,

Totally appreciate your viewpoint. I should be having fun with my new toy!

The only frustration is the clutch slipping. Although, it didn't tonight on my spirited drive to work. Perhaps the Kevlar needed a bit of a battering to rough up some more. Fingers crossed. On the plus side. I've found someone to install a friction plate for £250, and can get a plate for a similar price.

I'm not looking for more power at all, just a driveable car.

I'm also worried that the Quattro is not working, as significant wheelspin in 2nd doesn't seem to force the Quattro to kick in. I'm looking for a local haldex/Quattro specialist.

I agree, I need to enjoy this project. I just want it to be totally driveable.

No WMI for a while!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> _a project is a project - so always has to move forward._
> 
> You dont need water meth injection at the moment it coming into winter, and you certainly dont want a specific map relying on it. there's a reason badger5 charges so much for the FMIC - it is effective. why not start getting into logging your car then you can make your own judgement on whether you think you need more cooling air by reviewing the Intake Air Temperatures, or consider a HPA to control the quattro balance and maybe do a track day?
> 
> ...


I'll be leaving WMI alone for a while. Sadly it wasn't a toyo B welly cooler dropped in. It was a creation motorsports IC that I provided as it said welly on the ebay description. Bill says it is just about adequate but not as cooling a a proper welly. I'm a little annoyed about this.

Pretty sure it's clutch slip. I've had a slipping clutch before and this is the same symptom. Mind you, I had a fun drive to work this evening - on nighta atm - and no clutch slip at all. I think the Kevlar hates long journeys and stop-start traffic. Hopefully it will rough up some more with the new power and I can leave alone. I'll test it over the next couple of weeks.

Regarding the Quattro, there's definite wheelspin in 2dt at about 4-5000 revs, and seemingly no response from the rear to compensate. The ESP light flashes. I need to find a local specialist.

Definitely need to spend a while both breaking in the engine and getting used to the new power. Definitely not in need of more power atm!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> The clutch life maybe extended if you adjust your driving style treat the go pedal like it's a volume button not a sledge hammer, get out and enjoy the car whilst the weather is still decent


Will do. Thanks for the advice bud


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Jay-225 said:


> Hope you dont mind me poping these up Dan ? just seems relevant in this thread as we have similar stuff done
> 
> So got my car rerun again yesterday so a can get a before and after graph for the 3" exhaust work vs the 2.5/2.75" thats currently fitted , this was run at Surrey Rolling Road which is a lot closer to me than Badger5. it made 354bhp 330lb/ft so very close to what it made at B5 with the torque being a little higher which is what i expected .. BHP is bang on point on both roller tbh . Will return on the 22nd to get it rerun with the new system
> 
> ...


Not at all mate! Will be very interested to see what happens with the 3" exhaust. Mine gives a few pops and crackles in 2nd and 3rd coming off the gas in higher revs. Fun!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I'm on night shifts at the moment. Had to drive to A+E to review a psych patient - I'm normally based at the psych hospital.

On the way back, I drove to find some 99 petrol from Shell. Queue wonderful country lanes and some long straights. F*** me it's fast! Also, no clutch slipping! Hope it holds out this way


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Sweet 

You could maybe test the haldex operation by pulling fuse 31 to see if it is the same.

Can you try and upload a video of the exhaust with the engine running? Obviously that won't pick up the turbo kicking in, but it's on my list assuming I get the TT back together.

_Cough shell v-power is 98 , Tesco momentum is 99_.


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## matzo (Oct 1, 2014)

I used to find early on mine would slip with the extra load of a passenger, but not with me alone. Then it got worse. But you may be lucky


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> Sweet
> 
> You could maybe test the haldex operation by pulling fuse 31 to see if it is the same.
> 
> ...


Sure. I'll get Joe to help me so you can hear it purr.

Huh?! Shell isn't 99?!!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

djscoventry said:


> StuartDB said:
> 
> 
> > Sweet
> ...


Well this is what I have from Shell in 2013 so unless they have changed since then its 99 ron.
http://www.wak-tt.com/pdfs/shell-v-powe ... n-2013.pdf

I mean.... its does say "The information herein is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication. Whilst Shell
guarantee that our fuels meet the stated specification below, the additional or supplementary data provided is
for information only and should not be construed as a specification or warrant."

So unless there is some info more recent, ive taken it as 99 since production.


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Thanks Wak 

Does anyone add anything to their tank to increase the octane?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Clutch*

It's now behaving itself. I don't think Kevlar likes running in stop-start traffic and the journey back from Bill's was bloody horrendous on the M25.

Yesterday and today, it's been fine. Thank god.

Problem now may be the Quattro. There's a fair bit of wheelspin in 2nd and 3rd in the higher revs. To be expected with this much torque but I'm not sure the Quattro is kicking in as it should. Does the traction control light come on when wheelspin is detected on when the Quattro kicks in? I'm not 100% sure on this point. Thanks.


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

must have been thinking about optimax? _(I am sure I have seen 98 on the forecourts <- must be getting flash backs)
_

"In the United Kingdom and Denmark (where Super Plus Unleaded must be a minimum of 97 RON), V-Power has a rating of 99 RON (whereas V-Power's predecessor Shell Optimax was rated at 98 RON).[2] There are two other 99 RON fuel available in the UK, namely Tesco MOMENTUM99 and more recently Costco Premium Unleaded (99 RON) .[3] "

in my online lifestyle defence shell v-power has about 20 different octane ratings depending on where you live, including 190 RON in hong kong?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_V-Power


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## Mcmtt (Dec 1, 2015)

I would say it's just because you have so much more power mate. When no Quattro it is so obvious- front wheels spin like mad even with a 180 I had years ago. So basically you had 260bhp before if the Haldex was not working you'd have spun the wheels even then.

You can test in car park or on grass tho


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

V power is 98 darn sarf. Momentum 99


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Mcmtt said:


> I would say it's just because you have so much more power mate. When no Quattro it is so obvious- front wheels spin like mad even with a 180 I had years ago. So basically you had 260bhp before if the Haldex was not working you'd have spun the wheels even then.
> 
> You can test in car park or on grass tho


Is it normal for the traction control light to flash when the rears kick in? Or does it only kick in when front wheelspin is excessive?

How exactly does the field test work? Give it some welly and see if the rear wheels engage?

I'm quite keen on an uprated Haldex controller!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Allspeed said:


> V power is 98 darn sarf. Momentum 99


Can it really be 98 if the pump says 99? Bastards!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Mcmtt said:


> I would say it's just because you have so much more power mate. When no Quattro it is so obvious- front wheels spin like mad even with a 180 I had years ago. So basically you had 260bhp before if the Haldex was not working you'd have spun the wheels even then.
> 
> You can test in car park or on grass tho


Very fair point. Maybe I need to get myself a performance Haldex controller. Shh don't tell the boyfriend! :lol:


----------



## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

djscoventry said:


> Allspeed said:
> 
> 
> > V power is 98 darn sarf. Momentum 99
> ...


Our nearby V power pumps are badged up as 98 octane. There's only a few round here, and none local. I use momentum 99 as it's on route to the weekly shopping trip, the nearest one is actually 97 momentum. It's just mad !

I was over in Kent, passed a shell station so popped in and filled the tank with V power. Not having used it before I was surprised it was 98 on the pump.


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

djscoventry said:


> Is it normal for the traction control light to flash when the rears kick in? Or does it only kick in when front wheelspin is excessive?


Can't recall mine flashes when I was testing it the snow back in March, although it was low speed messing about in car parks lol

Damn fine car in the snow I must admit!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Allspeed said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > Allspeed said:
> ...


Shell garages in Brighton say 99 on the pump. Shame it's not 109!


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

The traction control light is not flashng when haldex is being engaged unless you still have wheelspin.

Unless you have Chinese tires or a wet road, it should hook in all gears. At least mine does with over 500 nm so dont see why yours shouldnt. Running stock suspension and haldex btw.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Also tempted to insert this Powertrack insert... Will wait a while though


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Beunhaas said:


> The traction control light is not flashng when haldex is being engaged unless you still have wheelspin.
> 
> Unless you have Chinese tires or a wet road, it should hook in all gears. At least mine does with over 500 nm so dont see why yours shouldnt. Running stock suspension and haldex btw.


Michelin Pilot Sport 4 all rounds, and new. Should the light flash until the rears engage, and then stop flashing once they do?


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

djscoventry said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > The traction control light is not flashng when haldex is being engaged unless you still have wheelspin.
> ...


Yes they should definitely hook in all gears. No, the haldex engages fast enough not to trigger the traction control light on the dash. Sounds as if the haldex is not working properly or intermitted


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Just spoke to Kim Collins at QST tuning near me. Very reputable. He agrees that there should be no front wheel slipping at all even with 366bhp. I'm taking it in first thing Friday for him to diagnose.


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> Sweet
> 
> You could maybe test the haldex operation by pulling fuse 31 to see if it is the same.
> 
> ...


No revving for now, as I'm flying solo. That'll come soon 

(Didn't work. How do you post videos?)


----------



## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Just had a quick read through this (not been on the forum for ages so catching up with stuff!) - congrats on the result, especially without WMI.

I'm hoping to go this route (or similar) next year. Good to see others getting these types of figures. I'll keep an eye out to see what you manage if you do fit WMI.

Hopefully the Haldex issue is just something small - although cars seem to have a habit of rewarding your generosity with a massive headache!


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

If the haldex is working properly then the rears should kick in immediately the fronts slip with no gap at all, so do the wet grass test, if you have a pal get them to watch from outside when you take off on the grass you do not need much throttle at all as the grass gives very little traction and you only need to go for 20yards to see if the rears are kicking in, if you don't have a pal then just hang out the door a bit and watch and listen for the rears to start working its even easier to do if the grass is on a slight hill as this unweights the front wheels thereby encouraging them to slip. Enjoy

Stevie


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

ProjectMick said:


> Just had a quick read through this (not been on the forum for ages so catching up with stuff!) - congrats on the result, especially without WMI.
> 
> I'm hoping to go this route (or similar) next year. Good to see others getting these types of figures. I'll keep an eye out to see what you manage if you do fit WMI.
> 
> Hopefully the Haldex issue is just something small - although cars seem to have a habit of rewarding your generosity with a massive headache!


Not a bad figure eh?! Pulls like a beast too.

I will be opting for WMI when finances allow but thankfully the heat of summer has passed so no rush. Haldex first!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

outdoor stevie said:


> If the haldex is working properly then the rears should kick in immediately the fronts slip with no gap at all, so do the wet grass test, if you have a pal get them to watch from outside when you take off on the grass you do not need much throttle at all as the grass gives very little traction and you only need to go for 20yards to see if the rears are kicking in, if you don't have a pal then just hang out the door a bit and watch and listen for the rears to start working its even easier to do if the grass is on a slight hill as this unweights the front wheels thereby encouraging them to slip. Enjoy
> 
> Stevie


Today driving to work I had a serious amount of wheelspin in third, driving up a hill. Haldex be knackered.

Tomorrow I'm off to get the Haldex looked at.

Pleaaaaaaaase let it be something simple. I'm broke!

Thanks for the tip mate


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Bloody Shell bastards!*

After the brief discussion on here, and after filling up with £40s worth of V-Power, I thought I'd ask the chap at the counter about the RON, since it didn't say 99 anywhere on the pump like I've seen before.

98!!!

Since when did Shell pull this fast one! Needless to say, I'll switch to Tesco 99 to comply with Bill's wishes.

However, I've read reports of Tesco being a 'poor' petrol with nasty additives, and that V-power is a superior petrol (despite being 98RON here). Can anyone expand upon this?

Thanks


----------



## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> *Bloody Shell bastards!*
> 
> After the brief discussion on here, and after filling up with £40s worth of V-Power, I thought I'd ask the chap at the counter about the RON, since it didn't say 99 anywhere on the pump like I've seen before.
> 
> ...


Unsure if I said already but if not, well done on the results and congratulations again on using Bill and making life easy!

I can testify that T99 is the dogs bollocks and will save you a lot of money over the course of your life compared to Shell V-Power Nitro Plus Mega Ultra Super yada yada :lol:...


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

SHELL VPOWER 99RON!

What annoys me about discussions like this is when I have a question about a pain I prefer to ask the Doctor ..... not so much the Hospital Janitor! :roll:



djscoventry said:


> I'd ask the chap at the counter about the RON, since it didn't say 99 anywhere on the pump like I've seen before.


I mean WTF.... I hate misinformation being being passed and correct it when I can if I've done it but why would you ask the sales child and expect it to be accurate!

This is from SHELL SUPPORT 
UPDATED 4 DAYS AGO

Just to make it clear it's as fresh as the eggs in my fridge and from as close as I can get to the Dr Shell for some feedback.

















https://support.shell.com/hc/en-gb/arti ... is-Octane-

Now I expect you to print that out go back to the shell garage and advise the chocolate salesman that his inaccurate information nearly lost him the entire Mk1 TT buying community plus any affiliated car enthusiasts sales which would have brought the company shares down and given Tesco a much higher profit announcement next year !.... all because he didn't know his product!

And was expected to by you! :lol:


----------



## MK1_Shep (Aug 24, 2018)

Sorry for what might be a stupid question, in fact I'm quite sure it is a stupid question, and a little bit of a thread hijack for a post.

How much difference does it make between different types of fuel??

Is it worth always using a high octane fuel, even if my car is standard??


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, The 1.8T engine is designed to use 98Ron super unleaded fuel & will run more efficiently & will produce full power when using it. 
Using any lower octane/ 95 Ron normal unleaded will cause the Ign timing to be retarded reducing power & efficiency, so your choice. 
Hoggy.


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

MK1_Shep said:


> Sorry for what might be a stupid question, in fact I'm quite sure it is a stupid question, and a little bit of a thread hijack for a post.
> 
> How much difference does it make between different types of fuel??
> 
> Is it worth always using a high octane fuel, even if my car is standard??


Forced induction higher compression should always be run on the highest octane for the engine health,

Eu regs force manufacturers to have ability to run on reduced power for lower octane fuels and bad fuels you may be forced to use.

Simply put 
The car will run on zero to minimal detonation (pinking which is bad) on good fuel

On lower octane it is always hearing some pinking and so the ecu protections are always dialling back.

It's just better for the engine to not have to hear pinking all the time and be optimal.

This is the same car obviously it's not back to back different days and after a 2nd tank of 99 was filled but it gives a view of the difference the fuel made.


----------



## MK1_Shep (Aug 24, 2018)

some awesome information there guys, cheers,

If my car, which had 74k on the clock when I got it, had always been run on lower octane (not sure if it had or not but I guess so,) does me now always using higher octane petrol make a difference? or will the lower octane have made some sort of difference some how?

That again is probably a really dim questions.


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

MK1_Shep said:


> some awesome information there guys, cheers,
> 
> If my car, which had 74k on the clock when I got it, had always been run on lower octane (not sure if it had or not but I guess so,) does me now always using higher octane petrol make a difference? or will the lower octane have made some sort of difference some how?
> 
> That again is probably a really dim questions.


You can force an adaptation reset via VCDS for an immediate fresh start, but by just using higher octane the car will adapt back up as it hears less pinking it will advance the ignition.


----------



## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

We spend ages researching which performance gizmos, or tyres, are the dog's wotnots, then spend sacks full of the folding stuff (plastic also available) to get it and fit it. This is good (as long as you can afford it) as we shouldn't make any decision, financial or otherwise, without getting the facts, and using them. So, why, when it comes to petrol and oil, do people just buy on price?
I spend close to £1000 a year on petrol, so, if the book says 98 Ron, then 98 or better (Shell Super in my case) it will be. As Wak says, if you want to know the octane rating, check out the Oil Co website, not the "man in the pub" To remain on topic, "man in the pub" or Badger Bill for performance advice? Mac.


----------



## MK1_Shep (Aug 24, 2018)

Thanks for all the fuel advice, really appreciate it

Sorry for taking it off topic, just to being it back on topic, I love this build!!


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Wak said:


> SHELL VPOWER 99RON!
> 
> What annoys me about discussions like this is when I have a question about a pain I prefer to ask the Doctor ..... not so much the Hospital Janitor! :roll:
> 
> ...


Thanks Wak! I had heard that down south V-power is 98 and up north 99. I'm sure the pumps used to say 99 on them so thought I'd ask the desk monkey. I didn't think it would be too complicated a piece of information for him to hold in hi head. Turns out I was wrong!

Thankfully you were here to save the day


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

you can see why it is confusing. and Wak's information does state "New Shell V-Power is 99" implying that "Old Shell V-Power was not 99"

Variances of Shell V-Power across countries.



> In the United Kingdom and Denmark (where Super Plus Unleaded must be a minimum of 97 RON), V-Power has a rating of 99 RON (whereas V-Power's predecessor Shell Optimax was rated at 98 RON).[2] There are two other 99 RON fuel available in the UK, namely Tesco MOMENTUM99 and more recently Costco Premium Unleaded (99 RON) .[3]
> 
> In The Netherlands, V-Power used to have a 95 RON rating, although officials from Shell stated it effectively had a 97 RON rating. Due to the limited categories of 92 RON, 95 RON, 98 RON and 100 RON.,[4] it was officially rated at 95. These days, the RON rating of the V-power petrol in the Netherlands is rated at 98.[1]
> 
> ...


even the shell.co.uk web site doesn't really confirm, I even got to see a page which included [Insert RON here] in the content - as it was some form of template. look at the disclaimer at the bottom.

https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell- ... acing.html


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I dunno where that north south divide in fuel octane would come from but sounds like a forum started "Chinese whisper "

You'd have to ask under what business logic would Shell maintain storage and distribution in one country of 95 97 98 and 99 Ron fuels when virtually every company handles 2 levels of petrol?

Anyway all that matters is 
A. Aim for the best you can and you should get something from 99-97
B. When mapping the tuner should target a level that allows for the timing retard that 99 may hit and the increase by 98/97 should still be within the protection threshold. 
C. You may go on a trip to Europe for some fun and other countries don't always have the same spec VPower as the UK anyway.

And this does not stop you using 95 in an emergency but no hard acceleration to redline as 95 may trigger protection and try to only fill enough to get you to a better fuel station.


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

That does make sense. It would be a bit odd to have 99 and 98 regionally. I'm glad it's not so.

Luckily I have a Shell on my commute so can keep it toppped up on the good stuff. Shame the points mean sod all!

In other news, I'm still too scared to get under the car to try and fix the Haldex!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Get some ramps from Halfords £30 and some low risers.

Although you do need 2 people to make sure you are straight, and correctly positioned.


----------



## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

As someone else mentioned, use a filling station with high turnover, as modern fuels are very volatile. Left too long, 99/98 will soon become something else, as the octane boosters like ethanol will dissappear, literally, into the ether. Same thing happens to fuel in your tank. Fill up with good stuff, and then only drive it occasionally? You'll soon have a tank full of poor quality fuel. If this is your driving pattern, I'd suggest putting 15 - 20 litres in at the start of a drive, that way, you'll be running on fresh fuel each time. Mac.


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

PlasticMac said:


> As someone else mentioned, use a filling station with high turnover, as modern fuels are very volatile. Left too long, 99/98 will soon become something else, as the octane boosters like ethanol will dissappear, literally, into the ether. Same thing happens to fuel in your tank. Fill up with good stuff, and then only drive it occasionally? You'll soon have a tank full of poor quality fuel. If this is your driving pattern, I'd suggest putting 15 - 20 litres in at the start of a drive, that way, you'll be running on fresh fuel each time. Mac.


Hmm interesting point. It's my daily drive so luckily the second part doesn't apply but I will make sure to continue using high-turnover stations when I fill up. Thanks.


----------



## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Does using 99 Ron fuel only apply to the 225 engine ? Or does it apply to all engines ?


----------



## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

All Mk1 TT engines, 4 and 6 cylinders. They are all high performance, high compression engines. Mac.


----------



## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Ok thanks.


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## LesRSV (Jul 5, 2017)

My 1,8 20vT 180bhp tt,engine code ARY 9.5/1 compression ratio requires malt whisky grade
my 1.8 20v T 150bhp passat engine code APU 9.5/1 compression ratio only requires blended grade :?


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

pretty sure it's to do with the timing advance, with a low octane fuel and hot air from a turbo the engine will pull timing and lose power to avoid knock.


----------



## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Possible diverter valve issue*

I noticed some flutter coming off boost soon after collecting the car. After speaking to Bill, I checked the vacuum hoses. Good vacuum coming off the inlet manifold.

Bill thinks the DV is most likely at fault and has recommended an OEM replacement. Called Audi this morning, who told me there are two options: a standard one, and one for cars with ESP. I don't understand this, and neither did the parts guy!

Can anyone weigh in on this? I'm getting fed up with sounding like a Cosworth :lol:

EDIT: Bill tells me to go for the 710p version, but I'm finding real difficulty sourcing this from Audi themselves, and online seems to be a bit of a minefield. Can anyone help me out with a link, pretty please?

EDIT EDIT: TPS were a lot more helpful than Audi. Will pick one up today. 8)


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

LesRSV said:


> malt whisky grade


 [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

djscoventry said:


> *Possible diverter valve issue*
> 
> I noticed some flutter coming off boost soon after collecting the car. After speaking to Bill, I checked the vacuum hoses. Good vacuum coming off the inlet manifold.
> 
> ...


what DV did you have before?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

OEM. Although I'm not sure if 710N or 710P.

I've stuck a brand new OEM 710P in, and it's still fluttering coming off high boost. Good vacuum coming off the inlet manifold. The only other device in situ is the hosing coming off for my boost gauge. I'll clamp that off and see if it makes a difference. I'd prefer not to have to drive back up to Bill for a review. 3-4 hours, not fun.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Hi Djs, why is flutter a bad thing? Genuine question as I've never owned anything with a turbo-snail 

/Al


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Now I'm no engineer but I've heard the sound is made by the compressor stalling and slowing inappropriately due to the air pressure not being successfully released back into the TIP, and that this can have a negative impact on the turbos bearings.

Also it makes you sound like a bit of a knob in my opinion!

Dan


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Ahhh! Yes, I have indeed heard of compressor stall - so that's what that is!

Yeah, that doesn't sound good. Hope you get it sorted. I assume the OEM-spec ones are fine with the increased airflow from the fancy turbo you now have?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Perhaps the OEM DVs just can't flow enough air to compensate for the volume flowing through the turbo at high boost, and thus the air downstream of the turbo is trapped after entry to the engine is denied when coming off the throttle.

Do I need a DV with higher capacity? I would imagine the answer to this is no, as Bill has already told me that the OEM DVs are fine for these builds and he knows what he's talking about! Just a thought though, as the new DV has not solved the problem and I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

djscoventry said:


> Perhaps the OEM DVs just can't flow enough air to compensate for the volume flowing through the turbo at high boost, and thus the air downstream of the turbo is trapped after entry to the engine is denied when coming off the throttle.
> 
> Do I need a DV with higher capacity? I would imagine the answer to this is no, as Bill has already told me that the OEM DVs are fine for these builds and he knows what he's talking about! Just a thought though, as the new DV has not solved the problem and I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere.


Anyone in Brighton got a removed N249 assembly for Dan to try out?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> Bill has already told me that the OEM DVs are fine for these builds and he knows what he's talking about!


I reckon I'd trust Mr Bill to be honest


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

alexgreyhead said:


> djscoventry said:
> 
> 
> > Bill has already told me that the OEM DVs are fine for these builds and he knows what he's talking about!
> ...


Oh I do  His 400bhp Lupo is running an OEM without flutter.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

His WHUTNOW?!

Bloody hell! Haha


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yeah he used his wife's Lupo as the test car for development of the hybrid turbo and Chinafold combo. With WMI and a couple more mods than I have, it runs just over 400bhp. And is still used to get the groceries :lol:

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/n ... od.266800/


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Verrrry nice )))))))


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Update after a good week of driving*

So since I collected her, I've had little chance to truly open her up. I came to my parents' this week in the countryside.

Holy moly. It FLIES! Wheel spin in 2 and 3 as the quattro is broken. So I'm not even experiencing the full force of it in lower gears. Needless to say though, I've embarrassed a few quick cars! M3, some AMG roadster thingy.

Still need the Haldex repairing. Still need to fix the flutter - refitting n249 tomorrow - but even so, it's incredible.

If anyone has a similar build plan in mind, go see Bill and give him your car!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I just had the clutch replaced at QST in Haywards Heath. I can recommend these guys if anyone is nearby. They do some insane Audi work. http://www.qstuning.com/

It's now running the Sach's 4-puck clutch that Bill recommended, and feels much better. Funny how the last clutch just slipped for one day but I didn't want to take any risks.

Collected it today only to find out that the rear differential is knackered. Thus, no quattro.

So, can anyone help me in sourcing a good used part?

I've seen these two on ebay and asked about warranty etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1- ... 3555757132

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-8N-H ... SwG7Faj9yC

Thanks guys!


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Warranty on a used part that may or may not have the granny spanked out of it won't be worth the paper it's written on, has the haldex controller been tested ?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Kim at QST was pretty happy that they either work or don't work, so it doesn't need an extended warranty but only an option for a refund if it is delivered and doesn't work.

Plus, a new part is thousands!

I've asked if I can return if the controller does not work as it should.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

so, dare i ask what sorta figure this lot adds up to ? ive just had a mahoosive ppi payment and am thinking of taking mine to the same sorta level 8)


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

digression - but I got nothing from my ppi claim against 4 loans and a mortgage with nationwide, they said it's over 6 years ago and I read the documents and it was mandatory. <-- sounds like they protest too much?


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> digression - but I got nothing from my ppi claim against 4 loans and a mortgage with nationwide, they said it's over 6 years ago and I read the documents and it was mandatory. <-- sounds like they protest too much?


mine was from 1998 ! 6 loans in total from lloyds


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

infidel.uk said:


> so, dare i ask what sorta figure this lot adds up to ? ive just had a mahoosive ppi payment and am thinking of taking mine to the same sorta level 8)


Hybrid turbo 
Chinafold manifold
3" exhaust
FMIC
Engine rebuild inc uprated valves and forged pistons

About 5K

This doesnt include new clutch and other new bits. Not cheap. Great results though, although shame I can't put it all down without quattro. More money to spend


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > so, dare i ask what sorta figure this lot adds up to ? ive just had a mahoosive ppi payment and am thinking of taking mine to the same sorta level 8)
> ...


i have the hg cooler and the bbt i have im told can produce upto 360, i need to get my thinking cap on !

thanks very much


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Sounds like a much cheaper project then


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I've found several rear diffs from spare parts companies / breakers yards now. All come with the Haldex module and a 3 month warranty.

Can anyone think of a better way to do this? If it doesn't work then we'll simply send it back so I can't think that there's that much to lose. Might have said that before about this car though! :lol:


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

There is only two option's the first is eye watering the second is taking a punt on a used unit if it does'nt go well it'll still cost less than the first option.


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

You 100% sure the haldex unit is knackered and not a knackered pump or controller ? got access to vcds ?


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## Mcmtt (Dec 1, 2015)

Did bill at badger5 not advice you there was a problem with the Quattro when he remapped it?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

it's not a 4WD dyno @ Badger5 - this issue seems to be intermittent in any case doesn't it?

as I am a little bit of a cheapskate, and as you bought that dodgy adapter I would put that in to see if it kicks back into life. but replacing a whole differential seems extreme the haldex clutch is a different unit and also has the haldex controller which is cheaper still. ( I wish I kept my S3 for parts ) what does a VCDS scan say? I would have thought if the rear differential was knackered there would be some form of mechanical noise - with a faulty haldex controller you just won't get it engaging. if it's is the haldex controller you could get a upgraded controller HPA etc


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I dont know how you came to this solution as i didnt read the whole thread, but want to mention that the rear differential and haldex clutchpack is extremely rare to fail. Probably a new controller solves the problem.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Beunhaas said:


> I dont know how you came to this solution as i didnt read the whole thread, but want to mention that the rear differential and haldex clutchpack is extremely rare to fail. Probably a new controller solves the problem.


a garage said it needed replacing, but garages also say a turbo needs replacing when an actuator has failed etc etc.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

you would be forgiven for thinking that bill would have a 4 wheel dyno seeing as a lot of his customers need it ?


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

infidel.uk said:


> you would be forgiven for thinking that bill would have a 4 wheel dyno seeing as a lot of his customers need it ?


99% of people will run the TT in FWD with the fuse pulled, the haldex and the way it shifts power front to back means its very hard to get a consistent reading.. pulling the fuse solves that issue


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

Jay-225 said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > you would be forgiven for thinking that bill would have a 4 wheel dyno seeing as a lot of his customers need it ?
> ...


never knew that.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Yeah this is exactly what Bill does. QST - local to me - have a 4WD dyno.

I'll ask QST exactly what the VCDS fault read. He did recommend a whole new diff though. He said the clutch was gone.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Mcmtt said:


> Did bill at badger5 not advice you there was a problem with the Quattro when he remapped it?


Yeah he did. He only road tested it - I think - the day before I collected it. I had already spent thousands so didn't ask him to investigate further, as I'm sure he could have done with more time. I was just broke!


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Delta4 said:


> There is only two option's the first is eye watering the second is taking a punt on a used unit if it does'nt go well it'll still cost less than the first option.


Yeah exactly. Kim will test it out when it arrives. If it's not in good condition and fully functional, it goes back.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Hopefully the first punt will be a good un


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

infidel.uk said:


> you would be forgiven for thinking that bill would have a 4 wheel dyno seeing as a lot of his customers need it ?


While 4wd would be nice the better ( IMO) dynos tend to measure torque going up and transmission loss going down.......
The Haldex cars are 4wd going up , 2 x 2 wheels drive disconnected going down so the transmission loss decelerating can throw figures out and be less accurate .

2 wheel drive up and 2 wheel drive down should give more accurate readings over using the haldex.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

At the risk of labouring the point, you ABSOLUTELY need to know what is preventing the rear from providing traction - apologies if I've missed it, but I am under the impression you don't know.

As a couple of other more-knowledgeable folks on here have already said, the rear diff/Haldex system is remarkably tough and tends to disengage before it breaks itself, so the chances are good that you will only need to perform some precise surgery to fix it, rather than replacing the whole limb (to stretch the metaphor a bit too far...).

If you need a new rear diff and controller assembly, I'd recommend looking for one from a 3.2 DSG-equipped Mk1 TT model if possible. I'm 99.9% sure it's the same as yours, and the DSG should mean it has been subjected to fewer if any hard gear changes and other mis-treatment.

Good luck!

/Al


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Wak said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > you would be forgiven for thinking that bill would have a 4 wheel dyno seeing as a lot of his customers need it ?
> ...


Is there anything you don't know?! :lol:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

alexgreyhead said:


> At the risk of labouring the point, you ABSOLUTELY need to know what is preventing the rear from providing traction - apologies if I've missed it, but I am under the impression you don't know.
> 
> As a couple of other more-knowledgeable folks on here have already said, the rear diff/Haldex system is remarkably tough and tends to disengage before it breaks itself, so the chances are good that you will only need to perform some precise surgery to fix it, rather than replacing the whole limb (to stretch the metaphor a bit too far...).
> 
> ...


I've emailed QST to ask for a specific diagnosis. Kim - the owner - told me at the time that the clutch part was broken.

Looks like only £125 for a diff + controller with warranty so might as well just replace both if they are found to be fully working?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> Looks like only £125 for a diff + controller with warranty so might as well just replace both if they are found to be fully working?


If they definitely work and are in better condition than your existing kit, I'd agree 100%.

Just my £0.0000002-worth, though, but if there's any doubt, then weigh up the labour cost to replace everything if the replacement then turns out to be more knackered than what you have...





djscoventry said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> > <Wak wisdom>
> ...


I'll bet he doesn't know what colour underpants I'm wearing today... :mrgreen:


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Only 1-2 hours labour to replace the rear diff.

And oh I bet he does!


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> Only 1-2 hours labour to replace the rear diff.


That's not so bad then!



djscoventry said:


> And oh I bet he does!


 [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Found a rear diff plus haldex for £114 so will give that a go. Have been promised I can simply return if QST find any fault with it. Fingers crossed!


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Wow!!

Out of interest, do you think it's a good idea to/are you going to pop a new clutch in it while you've got it out and drained of fluid?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Probably. I've emailed QST to see if this is possible, and await a reply.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

*Update*

Dropped her off this morning to have the new rear diff fitted.

They're also going to see if there is any play in the steering rack, because I'm interested in this steering quickener that Madmax mentioned recently.

Also having problems with losing power steering fluid, oh and it looks like I need another new ABS sensor.

But the rear diff is the most important thing. I'll finally be able to use all the power. 366hp is enough to make it wheelspin even in 4th gear with no quattro!


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## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

djscoventry said:


> *Update*
> 
> Also having problems with losing power steering fluid


A steel pipe painted black had rusted through on mine, hopefully it's not that as audi replacement was £340 :twisted:

Keep the info and photos coming as your thread is great to follow.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Do our TTs not already have a quick-rack like the S3?

My S3 main metal pipe along the front leaked from pump to rack, the high pressure pipe not cooler, I bought a second hand one from eBay £25

Quite often dropping the sub frame introduces power steering leaks.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Any news??

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Quattro fixed! Holy shit it's made such a difference. I can now floor it in every gear with no wheelspin. I'm finally experiencing 366bhp and it's god damn fast. I've got so much more confidence driving it now, knowing the wheels aren't going to spin. And also with this new Sach's clutch.

It's a beast!

PS leak was an easy fix apparently. They didn't go into details about the repair. Loose connection somewhere I think.

Regarding the steering quickener, it's not a new rack but some kind of add on that changes the ratio of steering wheel turn eg 1:1.5 or 1:2, meaning you turn the wheel less to get the same turn in.

So happy I have quattro now! I can fully appreciate Badger5's work


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

so do TT's have a quick rack like the Cupra R and S3 ? I did wonder when I got my TT that it didn't turn in as neatly onto the drive when I picked the car up and assumed it was just 18inch wheels versus 17inch wheels.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

I've read that it does have the same steering rack as the S3, yes. Still would like it quicker 

But for now, I'm happy with things as they are for a little while. It's been an expensive few months and now I have an awesome car.

Couple of little things need doing, like replacing rear trailing arm bushes so we can get the alignment right, and I'd love a new sound system, but for now I'm going to be kind to my wallet for a little bit. Oh and enjoy driving this absolute beast!


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

digging an interesting topic ..., how's the car performing?


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

It's a beast! I beat a brand new Boxster GTS last week. Obviously it's braking and handling is superior but I was easily faster anf he was not happy to see a youth beat him haha

It doesn't feel as quick as it used to though. Must be getting used to it. Next step, WMI!

Also want better brakes.


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## djscoventry (Jul 15, 2017)

Looking for fibreglass seats. Any recommendations?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

When you say fibreglass do you mean like race bucket seats ?.
There are plenty to choose from I quite like the OMP TRS seats I have in my car, fairly comfortable if you are driving a distance. Plenty to choose from, best if you can actually try them for fit before you buy one.

https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product- ... ing-seats/


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## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

djscoventry said:


> Looking for fibreglass seats. Any recommendations?


Car still going well ?


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