# DC's 2006 Misano Red quattro Sport



## DC240S

Hi everyone,

Thought I'd start a thread for my latest project and share progress.

Ever since I first saw the early left hookers appearing at VAG shows and the first time I sat in new one at an Audi dealer many years ago - I've wanted a mk1 Audi TT. Only recently I have found myself in a position to purchase one - though its actually slightly an irrational decision it has so far proved to be VERY enjoyable 2 years in.

I first began my research/search in the summer of 2014 by signing up to the TTforum, joining the TTOC and reading as many reviews, guides and mags I could find.

My initial objective was to find either a roadster or coupe 225 that was just post facelift, no colour preference and a budget that would allow for any age/service issues to be addressed plus a few modifications - with that in mind I set out to view SOME!

I very nearly purchased the first one I viewed! - a 2002 black 225 coupe with one owner and just 13k on the clock!! Annoyingly the early start and 5 hour round trip to London proved wasted as the condition didn't match the expectation. It was externally very tatty, had spent a life outside possibly under trees and had suffered parking abuse.
I then must have viewed a dozen or so all varying in age, miles, colour, condition and price - travelling hundreds of miles up and down the country. What was becoming apparent was that low mileage was not a guarantee of condition, and that descriptions were often inaccurate or misleading.

The game changer was when I went to view a 05 Misano Red QS with 50k at Norfolk Performance Cars. Unfortunately it was a CAT-D which I couldn't live with but it looked and drove so special, I decided I had to find a QS!
I then viewed a further five more QS's including flying to Belfast, NI to view one in Misano with just 35k, which again didn't match the expectation/description (had a nice day in Belfast though!).

I was starting to loose hope by now until by chance in late September I spotted a 2006 Misano Red QS with 25k miles advertised on AutoTrader. A very urgent call/conversation with the seller followed and a viewing was arranged for the next day.
Another 2.5 hr drive to Essex and I found myself watching as a MINT QS emerged carefully from the darkness of its garage home to stand gleaming in the sun. With the feeling I got as I took a first walk around I new I wouldn't be walking away from this one!!

Heres some pics of when I viewed/purchased it.

DC


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## DC240S




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## DC240S

First chance for a proper run was over to Sandringham and along the Norfolk coast - loved it!


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## Hoggy

Hi, Stop showing off. I've already said I luv it.. :lol: :lol: :wink: :wink: :mrgreen: 
Hoggy.


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## andy225tt

Love it! Its between misano red and avus silver as the best QS colour i'd say 8)


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## YELLOW_TT

And ive least said its the wrong colour :wink: :lol:


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## DC240S

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Stop showing off. I've already said I luv it.. :lol: :lol: :wink: :wink: :mrgreen:
> Hoggy.


Sorry!

I thought I'd post the story here as well as I' will likely continue with this thread.


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## Hoggy

DC240S said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Stop showing off. I've already said I luv it.. :lol: :lol: :wink: :wink: :mrgreen:
> Hoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry!
> 
> I thought I'd post the story here as well as I' will likely continue with this thread.
Click to expand...

Hi, No need to be sorry, just keep posting more pics, before Avus Silver try to take over. :roll: :lol: :lol: :wink: 
Hoggy.


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## Eadon

Nice! What's the horse shoe on the front about? :lol:

What's the last 4 digits of the VIN? That'll be it's build number and I can then add you to the qS register


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## DC240S

Eadon said:


> Nice! What's the horse shoe on the front about? :lol:
> 
> What's the last 4 digits of the VIN? That'll be it's build number and I can then add you to the qS register


Yes the horse shoe was a bit odd! - lucky for me I supose! I understand it related to a previous owner - Google Earth revealed that one did have stables! It was removed the day I picked it up.

I think I'am already on the register No: 961


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## jamman

DC240S said:


> First chance for a proper run was over to Sandringham and along the Norfolk coast - loved it!


I had a picture in roughly the same place back in 2001 (I think) in my Sline TT thats on the estate.

Love that combo on the qS


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## Eadon

DC240S said:


> Eadon said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! What's the horse shoe on the front about? :lol:
> 
> What's the last 4 digits of the VIN? That'll be it's build number and I can then add you to the qS register
> 
> 
> 
> Yes the hourse shoe was a bit odd! - lucky for me I supose! I understand it related to a previous owner - Google Earth revealed that one did have stables! It was removed the day I picked it up.
> 
> I think I'am all ready on the register No: 961
Click to expand...

Oops, so you are.


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## james_2k

and you got a free horse shoe, cash back!


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## Groundhog

Very nice. Looks in great condition. 
Best colour also!!


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## DC240S

james_2k said:


> and you got a free horse shoe, cash back!


Seller kept the horseshoe!

Though the sale included a set of NEW A1 17inch alloys with new winter tyres oh and a K&N oil filter!

More developments soon.


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## Thistlebeeace

Very, very nice - and as an Avus owner I am in the Misano camp regarding the best colour...

Any particular reason the seat backs are black, though?


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## Eadon

Nice spot!!

other than the horse shoe I thought it was totally standard!


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## DC240S

Thistlebeeace said:


> Very, very nice - and as an Avus owner I am in the Misano camp regarding the best colour...
> 
> Any particular reason the seat backs are black, though?


Thanks - Misano/Avus I'd have either!

The story goes that the car was supplied with Phantom black Recaro's because of a shortage of Misano red at the time of build - this being at the end of the production in 2006 (No: 961).

Audi's online owner portal mentions the car as having the comfort seat option so its feasible that they were installed retrospectively - I am going to attempt to confirm with Audi or owners. However inspection shows all the correct genuine parts, correct stickers, seat heating delete. The previous owner to me bought the car at 12,000 miles with the Recaro's fitted and their mint condition certainly reflects this mileage - they must have been new when fitted.

There was some speculation in a thread here wether it was a genuine QS - due to the seat colour, something about standard H4 lights? and having 24,000 miles with 7 owners. Well I can confirm it is genuine and does have xenon lights with wash and has a very traceable history with its owners (location, mileage, dates) backed up by a documented Service history with both Audi and Independent specialists (TTS inc.), ALL its MOT's and copies of previous V5's. The car was sold by Southampton Audi in 2011 with 10,000 miles and 5 owners.


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## DC240S

First time MOT in my ownership today - had the fear of impending big expense especially as I took it to Audi.

Now on 30158 miles.

Very pleased with a pass with no advisories!

Also had an interim service done too!

DC


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## DC240S

The TT was spared daily use and I spent some time gradually making improvements through careful cleaning and replacement of some trim.

I started to amass a few bits and bobs to fit in the future including a mint as new inlet manifold bought, genuine Audi discs and pads and some detail bling:


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## DC240S

The door steps were an early replacement - TBH the originals where pretty much perfect with the smallest of scuffs but I got the new ones cheap and the virgin plastic does look smart. The old adhesive was a bloody pain to remove though!


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## DC240S

I was getting fed up of the care that the QS Alcantara gear knob required - with it effecting how I drove. So I bought a new (durable) leather 5 spd one, popped the bezel off and swopped over the centre numbers from the QS original. QS one now safely stored.


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## DC240S

Two (bad) photos from last month.



















More soon!


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## Andy1a2b

DC240S said:


> Two (bad) photos from last month.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More soon!


Love the Misano Red , even though I've got Light Silver 8)


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## DC240S

With one of its 800 siblings - attending my first TTOC event at Peterborough Audi



















This led to the purchase of a NEW scuttle trim - as the clear plastic VIN window on the original had cracked and broken.


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## DC240S

In anticipation of needing to replace the discs/pads soon I've been making the necessary purchases.

I was tempted by a Porsche caliper conversion but I need to prioritise some other servicing/parts, tyres and a wheel refurb.

With a bit of looking I've NEW OE Audi front and rear discs and Audi rear pads and NEW Ferodo DS performance front pads all for £156 -

I might be tempted by some Hel brake lines too.

DC


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## GazCoutts

Nice thread and loving the detail you are going to
We have the same model, totally standard and looking to keep it that way
Our next intention is to have the wheels done over the winter


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## DC240S

GazCoutts said:


> Nice thread and loving the detail you are going to
> We have the same model, totally standard and looking to keep it that way
> Our next intention is to have the wheels done over the winter


Looks great!


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## GazCoutts

Hoping to see other red QS at Castle Combe in October!!


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## DC240S

GazCoutts said:


> Hoping to see other red QS at Castle Combe in October!!


I'll be going - so that's two Misano.


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## DC240S

Small update -

Dropping the wheels off for a refurb tomorrow. Hope to match the silver and diamond cut rim edge.


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## matzo

Very nice car...best colour for me.


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## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> GazCoutts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to see other red QS at Castle Combe in October!!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be going - so that's two Misano.
Click to expand...

You'll defo see an Avus qS at ADI


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## DC240S

matzo said:


> Very nice car...best colour for me.


Thanks!


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## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GazCoutts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to see other red QS at Castle Combe in October!!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be going - so that's two Misano.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You'll defo see an Avus qS at ADI
Click to expand...

Excellent! one of each colour?


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## YELLOW_TT

Still need silver and a black one


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## burtz

Looks amazing


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## Fisher4772

Yep I'll supply the Black one if you like


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## cherie

DC240S said:


> With a sibling the other week...


Ah, so it was you I followed nearly all the way home! I wasn't being a stalker, honest!


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## DC240S

cherie said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> With a sibling the other week...
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, so it was you I followed nearly all the way home! I wasn't being a stalker, honest!
Click to expand...

Yes indeed! - I thought we might end up living on the same street!


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## Fisher4772

So guys what stand you showing your cars on TTOC ?


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## DC240S

Fisher4772 said:


> So guys what stand you showing your cars on TTOC ?


Was TTOC though doubtful I'am going now as my alloy refurb won't be completed - and the temp wheels look odd and have winter tyres.


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## sco

Where are you getting your wheels refurbed DC? Need to get mine done too!

Simon.


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## cherie

DC240S said:


> cherie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> With a sibling the other week...
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, so it was you I followed nearly all the way home! I wasn't being a stalker, honest!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes indeed! - I thought we might end up living on the same street!
Click to expand...

That would have been weird!


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## GazCoutts

Ours will be on the TTOC stand.....


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## blues1143

That is one of the nicest QS I have seen! I am normally not a fan of the 'pod' look but it looks right with that colour!


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## DC240S

Completed the modification to the rear light units to enable twin brake lights. Euro specification only I believe due to UK MOT requirements relating to proximity of fog lights - quite straightforward to do and impressed with the effect.

Before:










Light units removed and opportunity taken for an inspection and clean:



















After:


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## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Thistlebeeace said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very, very nice - and as an Avus owner I am in the Misano camp regarding the best colour...
> 
> Any particular reason the seat backs are black, though?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - Misano/Avus I'd have either!
> 
> The story goes that the car was supplied with Phantom black Recaro's because of a shortage of Misano red at the time of build - this being at the end of the production in 2006 (No: 961).
> 
> Audi's online owner portal mentions the car as having the comfort seat option so its feasible that they were installed retrospectively - I am going to attempt to confirm with Audi or owners. However inspection shows all the correct genuine parts, correct stickers, seat heating delete. The previous owner to me bought the car at 12,000 miles with the Recaro's fitted and their mint condition certainly reflects this mileage - they must have been new when fitted.
> s.
Click to expand...

If it had been supplied from new with the comfort seats it would have the heater switches for the seats in the dash and the extra wiring under the seats so should be easy to check


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## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thistlebeeace said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very, very nice - and as an Avus owner I am in the Misano camp regarding the best colour...
> 
> Any particular reason the seat backs are black, though?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - Misano/Avus I'd have either!
> 
> The story goes that the car was supplied with Phantom black Recaro's because of a shortage of Misano red at the time of build - this being at the end of the production in 2006 (No: 961).
> 
> Audi's online owner portal mentions the car as having the comfort seat option so its feasible that they were installed retrospectively - I am going to attempt to confirm with Audi or owners. However inspection shows all the correct genuine parts, correct stickers, seat heating delete. The previous owner to me bought the car at 12,000 miles with the Recaro's fitted and their mint condition certainly reflects this mileage - they must have been new when fitted.
> s.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it had been supplied from new with the comfort seats it would have the heater switches for the seats in the dash and the extra wiring under the seats so should be easy to check
Click to expand...

Cheers Yellow. I have checked under the seats and theres no wiring and no heating switches - I am inclined to think it genuinely came from Germany with Phantom black seats - there not being any in Misano as the production run ended may be true. Iam going to contact the supplying dealership to see if by chance they remember.


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## YELLOW_TT

What build number is it ? That will help you know how late in the production cycle it was built better than the ref year :idea:


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## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> What build number is it ? That will help you know how late in the production cycle it was built better than the ref year :idea:


Its No: 961


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## Chris_M

Nice car.

Let me know how you get on with the wheel refurb. I picked a QS up this week, and today was the first chance I had to wash it and get a good close look round. The rears on mine have been curbed. The factory finish looks very high build and is exceptionally hard. I am in two minds on whether to just leave them as is. Did the scuttle panel replacement same as you. Posting the washer jets through those holes was fun!


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## DC240S

Chris_M said:


> Nice car.
> 
> Let me know how you get on with the wheel refurb. I picked a QS up this week, and today was the first chance I had to wash it and get a good close look round. The rears on mine have been curbed. The factory finish looks very high build and is exceptionally hard. I am in two minds on whether to just leave them as is. Did the scuttle panel replacement same as you. Posting the washer jets through those holes was fun!


Cheers!

I'll update on the wheels soon - don't want to tempt fate till I have them back.

PS: We're you on cupranet once upon a time - mk2 20v?


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## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thistlebeeace said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very, very nice - and as an Avus owner I am in the Misano camp regarding the best colour...
> 
> Any particular reason the seat backs are black, though?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - Misano/Avus I'd have either!
> 
> The story goes that the car was supplied with Phantom black Recaro's because of a shortage of Misano red at the time of build - this being at the end of the production in 2006 (No: 961).
> 
> Audi's online owner portal mentions the car as having the comfort seat option so its feasible that they were installed retrospectively - I am going to attempt to confirm with Audi or owners. However inspection shows all the correct genuine parts, correct stickers, seat heating delete. The previous owner to me bought the car at 12,000 miles with the Recaro's fitted and their mint condition certainly reflects this mileage - they must have been new when fitted.
> s.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it had been supplied from new with the comfort seats it would have the heater switches for the seats in the dash and the extra wiring under the seats so should be easy to check
Click to expand...

Decoded the build sticker and what I got is a s follows - not sure this confirms the type of seat fitted? What have other QS on theirs?

http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

X2B = National sales program Great Britain
B0A = Component parts set without country-specific design requirement
C7N = Alloy wheels 8J x 18 front, with 8.5J x 18 rear
G0L = 6-speed manual transmission for four-wheel drive vehicle
HK5 = Tires 235/40 R18 95Y xl
J2D = Battery 380 A (68 Ah)
D7D = 4-cyl. gasoline engine 1.8 L/176 kW (20V) turbo Base engine is T6B
Q1D = Sports front seats
L61 = Suspension range 61 installation control only, no requirement forecast
1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)
1G8 = Breakdown set
2ZX = Leather trimmed sports steering wheel with aluminum appearance
1N4 = Power steering
6TS = Right exterior mirror: aspherical, large viewing field
5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex
T6B = 4-cylinder gasoline engine 1.8 L unit 06A.G
0YL = Weight range 11 installation control only, no requirement forecast
4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation
0G4 = Cable gearshift
8UD = Radio "concert"
8GL = Alternator 120 A
8RY = Speakers with BOSE sound
2EH = Disc brakes, rear
1LD = Disc brakes, front
3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof)
UA5 = Rear shock absorption

DC


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## Tahiti

You have my ideal QS there. Lovely.


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## DC240S

In order to keep the original Concert stereo I've purchased a retrofit bluetooth/handsfree unit/kit - hope to install so its all hidden. I've also purchased an Audi OEM type mic to install behind the sensor trim above the interior light.

Seems quite a well made kit with USB charging, 3.5mm line in and SD slot.


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## DC240S

When I purchased the car I was disappointed to be only supplied with the two flip keys. I then made this worse by loosing one of those! I was considering a replacement when I had what I hope is a lucky find on eBay - a NEW genuine Audi lock/key set.










Appreciate advice on how complicated replacement might be with the one original key. Can I code the new keys to the immobiliser before fitting the new locks?

DC


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## DC240S

Another recent purchase was a Forge FMDV0008 - not a big mod I know but actually the first in my ownership.
It has a REVO Stage 1 remap and Pipercross panel filter. I wasn't sure which spring to use so I've opted initially for the green.
I'am interested to see if theres difference as others have found.


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## DC240S

Today I got round to installing the Bluetooth kit previously posted. I really didn't want to drill any holes or make any kind of permanent mod to standard so chose to use a location a little different to most - the storage compartment under the steering wheel which suits the location of my phone to the right of the dash.

Started by lining the module with some foam adhesive pads bought from Wilko.



















This is to provide a snug fit and protect against the plastic edges here:










Then utilising the support of the factory integrated sprung holder shown here:










The unit can be slotted in and held like this:










And finished:










The units cable can easily be routed through the existing cavity at the back of the compartment up to the head unit - USB etc out the front. So now I have Bluetooth connectivity, handsfree calling (answering), USB charging, Aux and SD inputs all with the original Concert Headunit


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## warrenstuart

Car's looking good, i like them in red 

Did you ever get the wheels refurbed?

Warren.


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## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> Car's looking good, i like them in red
> 
> Did you ever get the wheels refurbed?
> 
> Warren.


Cheers!

Yes but not fitted yet.


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## warrenstuart

Looks stunning on the pic but of course the pics don't do them justice most of the time do they!
I should of gone back but they're on the car now and look ok. Seems difficult to get a real top quality job done and when i was shopping around there wasn't too much in the prices quoted either so it's not even as if you could argue "well you get what you pay for" :?

Warren.


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## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> Looks stunning on the pic but of course the pics don't do them justice most of the time do they!
> I should of gone back but they're on the car now and look ok. Seems difficult to get a real top quality job done and when i was shopping around there wasn't too much in the prices quoted either so it's not even as if you could argue "well you get what you pay for" :?
> 
> Warren.


I am a really fussy sod and I said this to the company and was clear on what I was expecting - its only right to go back to them. I can't wait to get them back on!


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## DC240S

In pursuit of perfection inside and despite my original only having the smallest of marks - I picked up one of these as it was fairly inexpensive. I can now store the original which I think has a slightly different form around the bolts - early ones appear to be different?

Cant be said for some other trim - the Headunit flip cover is £196!?


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## warrenstuart

I'm afraid perfection comes at a price where genuine Audi is concerned, i've priced up a genuine leather handbrake cover today... £172 WTF 

Warren.


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## Morbs320i

Lovely looking car, great work so far.

Any links to the Bluetooth kit? Do you mind me asking how much it was? I've got the original Chorus radio and wouldn't mind linking something like this in.

I need to do some work on he stereo side of it as I've just refitted this original head unit back in as it suits the dash much better but my rear left hand speaker isn't working so wouldn't mind doing both jobs at once.


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## DC240S

Morbs320i said:


> Lovely looking car, great work so far.
> 
> Any links to the Bluetooth kit? Do you mind me asking how much it was? I've got the original Chorus radio and wouldn't mind linking something like this in.
> 
> I need to do some work on he stereo side of it as I've just refitted this original head unit back in as it suits the dash much better but my rear left hand speaker isn't working so wouldn't mind doing both jobs at once.


Here you go:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT


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## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Morbs320i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely looking car, great work so far.
> 
> Any links to the Bluetooth kit? Do you mind me asking how much it was? I've got the original Chorus radio and wouldn't mind linking something like this in.
> 
> I need to do some work on he stereo side of it as I've just refitted this original head unit back in as it suits the dash much better but my rear left hand speaker isn't working so wouldn't mind doing both jobs at once.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT
Click to expand...

Can this be used if you have the 6 CD fitted or do you have to disconnect it ?


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## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Morbs320i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely looking car, great work so far.
> 
> Any links to the Bluetooth kit? Do you mind me asking how much it was? I've got the original Chorus radio and wouldn't mind linking something like this in.
> 
> I need to do some work on he stereo side of it as I've just refitted this original head unit back in as it suits the dash much better but my rear left hand speaker isn't working so wouldn't mind doing both jobs at once.
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can this be used if you have the 6 CD fitted or do you have to disconnect it ?
Click to expand...

I am not sure and need to confirm this myself as the changer is reconnected into the supplied loom and has power.


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## Garth

warrenstuart said:


> I'm afraid perfection comes at a price where genuine Audi is concerned, i've priced up a genuine leather handbrake cover today... £172 WTF
> 
> Warren.


That's criminal, especially considering that I've been knocking these out for £15!


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## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely looking car, great work so far.
> 
> Any links to the Bluetooth kit? Do you mind me asking how much it was? I've got the original Chorus radio and wouldn't mind linking something like this in.
> 
> I need to do some work on he stereo side of it as I've just refitted this original head unit back in as it suits the dash much better but my rear left hand speaker isn't working so wouldn't mind doing both jobs at once.
> 
> Here you go:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT
> 
> 
> 
> Can this be used if you have the 6 CD fitted or do you have to disconnect it
> 
> I am not sure and need to confirm this myself as the changer is reconnected into the supplied loom and has power.
Click to expand...

Cheers I'll keep an eye out for your reply


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## YELLOW_TT

Garth said:


> warrenstuart said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid perfection comes at a price where genuine Audi is concerned, i've priced up a genuine leather handbrake cover today... £172 WTF
> 
> Warren.
> 
> 
> 
> That's criminal, especially considering that I've been knocking these out for £15!
Click to expand...

Looks familiar :wink: 
This is the one Garth did for me by the looks and as I also have a genuine Audi one I can say that Garths quality is as good and the OEM item


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## DC240S

More expensive parts needed this week! Found the headlight switch/controls weren't working - not sure if this is common? Had a scan on eBay but didn't fancy anything worn plus I needed the car so took the hit on a new part from TPS for £112!!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## DC240S

The bluetooth/handsfree module I fitted has been working a treat! Though I didn't like a mic with a foam sock stuck to the dash.

Today I installed an Audi OEM Fiscon mic in the OE position behind the interior alarm sensor grille in the headlining.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kufatec-Fisco ... SwR0JUUimz

First you need to remove the unit and separate the back sensor part from the front grille by prising the small clips:










Then with a bit of dremmel work you can open up the aperture for the mic - which fits perfectly and now retained by the existing previously redundant moulded clips:














































Push the grille back on and your ready to refit - the only PITA is removing A,B pillar trim and channeling the wire.










DC


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## noidea

Hi DC, what is the connection on the OEM mic, will it plug straight in to the Bluetooth box?


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## DC240S

Hi,

The connection is a 3.5mm jack plug so will fit the aftermarket kits like I have. There is enough wire to route to anywhere dash wise.

DC


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## somnambulist

DC240S said:


> In order to keep the original Concert stereo I've purchased a retrofit bluetooth/handsfree unit/kit - hope to install so its all hidden. I've also purchased an Audi OEM type mic to install behind the sensor trim above the interior light.
> 
> Seems quite a well made kit with USB charging, 3.5mm line in and SD slot.


This looks great, need something for my QS too. Can you post a link please where you got it from? Was it easy to fit, just plug and play?


----------



## DC240S

somnambulist said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> In order to keep the original Concert stereo I've purchased a retrofit bluetooth/handsfree unit/kit - hope to install so its all hidden. I've also purchased an Audi OEM type mic to install behind the sensor trim above the interior light.
> 
> Seems quite a well made kit with USB charging, 3.5mm line in and SD slot.
> 
> 
> 
> This looks great, need something for my QS too. Can you post a link please where you got it from? Was it easy to fit, just plug and play?
Click to expand...

The bluetooth unit is here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT

I'll dig the mic one out later.

Its all plug and play - just carful trim removal/replacement required.

DC


----------



## somnambulist

Wow that's awesome for £50 thanks, the ones I've looked at are over double that! Cheers.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> somnambulist said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> In order to keep the original Concert stereo I've purchased a retrofit bluetooth/handsfree unit/kit - hope to install so its all hidden. I've also purchased an Audi OEM type mic to install behind the sensor trim above the interior light.
> 
> Seems quite a well made kit with USB charging, 3.5mm line in and SD slot.
> 
> 
> 
> This looks great, need something for my QS too. Can you post a link please where you got it from? Was it easy to fit, just plug and play?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The bluetooth unit is here:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111573302408? ... EBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I'll dig the mic one out later.
> 
> Its all plug and play - just carful trim removal/replacement required.
> 
> DC
Click to expand...

Can you still use the CD player with this fitted ?


----------



## DC240S

Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.

DC


----------



## rustyintegrale

DC240S said:


> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC


So will the SD card slot play audio files? Have you tried that? I can't see any other reason why it would be there but with 512GB cards available - at a price - I'd be curious to know if it works.


----------



## DC240S

rustyintegrale said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> So will the SD card slot play audio files? Have you tried that? I can't see any other reason why it would be there but with 512GB cards available - at a price - I'd be curious to know if it works.
Click to expand...

It says it plays Audio files - again I'll try this weekend and let you know.


----------



## rustyintegrale

DC240S said:


> rustyintegrale said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> So will the SD card slot play audio files? Have you tried that? I can't see any other reason why it would be there but with 512GB cards available - at a price - I'd be curious to know if it works.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It says it plays Audio files - again I'll try this weekend and let you know.
Click to expand...

Thanks, does it say what audio files it supports?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC


Cheers


----------



## DC240S

I got the chance to get busy with the DAP begin to correct the paint.

I started with the area of the hatch below the spoiler as it was suffering from swirls and scratches - particularly around the Audi badge which also had a halo of marks. As I had a new genuine replacement badge I removed the old one to make life easier.

Some before images:


----------



## The Gachet

Had the priviliege of seeing this car in the flesh last Sunday... it's like going back in time eleven years and witnessing it come off the 'quattro GmbH' production line for the very first time, it's absolutely flawless !  8)


----------



## DC240S

The Gachet said:


> Had the priviliege of seeing this car in the flesh last Sunday... it's like going back in time eleven years and witnessing it come off the 'quattro GmbH' production line for the very first time, it's absolutely flawless !  8)


Thanks for that - very generous! I managed to get this done just before last Sunday - its going to take some time to do the whole car but I'll get there.

I'll keep improving it as best I can.


----------



## DC240S

Treated the area with CarPro Iron X, some Tardis then a session with a clay bar.










Then got busy with some Menzerna compounds and Chemical Guys Quantum Hex Logic Pads - results:



















I then fixed the new badge on using a position template I made and applied glaze and a couple of coats of wax.


----------



## iGenie

Lovely car mate, some really cool stuff you've done with it.


----------



## Metrics

YELLOW_TT said:


> Can you still use the CD player with this fitted ?


Yes you can Yellow, just a case of flicking switch 4 on the module, changes source input from the module to CD.


----------



## Metrics

rustyintegrale said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> So will the SD card slot play audio files? Have you tried that? I can't see any other reason why it would be there but with 512GB cards available - at a price - I'd be curious to know if it works.
Click to expand...

Yes you can use SD and USB sticks for music input, usual MP3 files, but the capacity is limited to 64gb. I think the folders cannot exceed 6 iirc


----------



## Metrics

Beautiful car DC240S, looking mint.


----------



## DC240S

Metrics said:


> Beautiful car DC240S, looking mint.


Thanks very much!

Next up will be to correct the paint on the rear bumper - replacing the badges for new. I also have to replace the discs and pads for the MOT which will include genuine discs/Performance pads an new splash plates. Just in the process of giving the discs an additional coat of silver high temp paint.

Desperate also to get my QS wheels back on as it's currently on A1 17inch alloys.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Metrics said:


> rustyintegrale said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I still haven't confirmed if the CD changer works - as soon as I have time I will.
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> So will the SD card slot play audio files? Have you tried that? I can't see any other reason why it would be there but with 512GB cards available - at a price - I'd be curious to know if it works.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes you can use SD and USB sticks for music input, usual MP3 files, but the capacity is limited to 64gb. I think the folders cannot exceed 6 iirc
Click to expand...

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

I managed to get round to replacing the brake discs/pads. I decided to put a bit of effort into this and take the opportunity for some aesthetic improvement.

I sourced genuine front/rear discs, genuine rear pads and Ferodo Performance DS front pads. I also "splashed" out on new rear splash plates as the originals can be seen and looked scruffy.










The factory paint/coating on the new splash plates didn't look great so I primed/painted these with several coats of Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black (Satin) - which I have used previously and been impressed with.



















I find rusty brake discs really annoying so I wanted to avoid this for as long as possible by improving the factory paint finish and coverage. The paint I used is RUST-OLEUM Stove & BBQ Paint (Matt Silver) which resists heat up to 650oC and is a perfect match to the factory silver.


----------



## DC240S

Starting with the rear discs - after prep I started by brush painting any exposed metal in each of the cooling veins to prevent rust here (I know - OCD really). 
I then made card templates to cover only the sweep area of the pads and fixed these in position using masking tape through holes cut in the face:

Front, back and edges where then given three light mist coats and two wet coats of aerosol RUST-OLEUM paint.




























Here's a colour comparison - factory painted front disc (left) and RUST-OLEUM painted rear (right)


----------



## TeaTeaman

DC240S said:


> Completed the twin brake light mod yesterday - quite straightforward to do and impressed with the effect.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Light units removed and opportunity taken for an inspection and clean:
> 
> 
> 
> After:


Hi, i like the idea of that, is it easy to do, what's involved. I'm picking my first TT up on friday, so be gentle!


----------



## warrenstuart

Impressive work, i like [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Basically you're building a brand new car aren't you 8)

Warren.


----------



## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> Impressive work, i like [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> Basically you're building a brand new car aren't you 8)
> 
> Warren.


----------



## DC240S

TeaTeaman said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Completed the twin brake light mod yesterday - quite straightforward to do and impressed with the effect.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Light units removed and opportunity taken for an inspection and clean:
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, i like the idea of that, is it easy to do, what's involved. I'm picking my first TT up on friday, so be gentle!
Click to expand...

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=891273&hilit=dual+brake+lights


----------



## TeaTeaman

Thanks for the reply. So basically I need a Mk4 golf rear lamp from a scrappy then? Found my way around the forum a little today and found that but thanks for coming back to me. Nice car yours by the way.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

TeaTeaman said:


> Thanks for the reply. So basically I need a Mk4 golf rear lamp from a scrappy then? Found my way around the forum a little today and found that but thanks for coming back to me. Nice car yours by the way.


Mk2/3 or 4 Golf or Bora will have the parts you need


----------



## TeaTeaman

YELLOW_TT said:


> TeaTeaman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. So basically I need a Mk4 golf rear lamp from a scrappy then? Found my way around the forum a little today and found that but thanks for coming back to me. Nice car yours by the way.
> 
> 
> 
> Mk2/3 or 4 Golf or Bora will have the parts you need
Click to expand...

Just got myself a mk2 golf ebay bargain, thanks


----------



## Boris84

Fantastic car, really impressive work. Really would like to get hold of a TT with the pole positions, either the QS or an exclusive Roadster.
The red looks great too, after having 4 of the 6 cars I've owned be red I said I'd never buy another. But damn yours looks good in red!


----------



## DC240S

Completed a little tidy up of the throttle body and hose clamp. Decent result I think removing the corrosion without creating to much shine. New original manifold to be fitted soon after.

Before:










After:


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Awesome work as always.  Where are you getting all these parts from lol


----------



## DC240S

I've been continuing with the paint correction - removing some stubborn swirls on the rear bumper which resulted in working late into the night - much to the amusement of neighbours!

Heres some 50/50's below the number plate and some results:


----------



## saicab

Great work., keep it up mate


----------



## NWDSdaz

Love the attention to detail. Great work.


----------



## DC240S

Cheers for the comments.

MOT pass today at Audi with no advisories either.

Fitted the new rear discs and pads yesterday. Would like to have replaced the brake splash plates at the same time but didn't realise how involved it is :?

DC


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Cheers for the comments.
> 
> MOT pass today at Audi with no advisories either.
> 
> Fitted the new rear discs and pads yesterday. Would like to have replaced the brake splash plates at the same time but didn't realise how involved it is :?
> 
> DC


Just remove the splash guards most big brake kits done have them


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for the comments.
> 
> MOT pass today at Audi with no advisories either.
> 
> Fitted the new rear discs and pads yesterday. Would like to have replaced the brake splash plates at the same time but didn't realise how involved it is :?
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> Just remove the splash guards most big brake kits done have them
Click to expand...




YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for the comments.
> 
> MOT pass today at Audi with no advisories either.
> 
> Fitted the new rear discs and pads yesterday. Would like to have replaced the brake splash plates at the same time but didn't realise how involved it is :?
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> Just remove the splash guards most big brake kits done have them
Click to expand...

Do you have them on your QS?

DC


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Don't have them on the qS or yellow they were removed to fit the big brake kits


----------



## CHAO5

Stunning build DC [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Thanks!

Today I got round to changing the front discs and pads - their condition left me amazed they had got through the MOT and Audi health check!!? Both sets of pads had depth but were cracked and on one the friction material had separated completely from the metal backing plate!? Plus the inside of both discs were only partially being swept by the pads and were corroded.

All sorted now with Ferodo DS Performance brake pads and genuine Audi discs.


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Only just twigged that was you QS at EvenTT :roll: It is very special indeed and clearly a labour of love. Well done 

I fitted DS2500 pads last month with standard discs and have to agree that they offer great performance


----------



## DC240S

Thanks!

Gave the engine bay and under bonnet a light detail in prep for the new inlet manifold. Also modified the Porsche coolant cap to align horizontally and replaced some of the strut brace mounting bolts - surprisingly pence from Audi!










Replacement:


----------



## DC240S

New and much brighter inlet manifold has added some freshness:


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> New and much brighter inlet manifold now fitted and coated in Collinite No. 845 - Insulator Wax.


If you get the old one bead blasted it should come up like new make a good spare :idea:


----------



## noidea

Looking good!

I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?

Did you order the air box cover?


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> New and much brighter inlet manifold now fitted and coated in Collinite No. 845 - Insulator Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you get the old one bead blasted it should come up like new make a good spare :idea:
Click to expand...

Yeah I was looking at getting it vapour blasted.


----------



## DC240S

noidea said:


> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?


Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!

Might be keeping it as a spare.

No - never ordered a cover -

DC


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> noidea said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!
> 
> Might be keeping it as a spare.
> 
> No - never ordered a cover -
> 
> DC
Click to expand...

I think they are about £18 from TPS you also need a couple of clips to fit it, must have been left off as part of the weight saving my qS didn't have one either :lol:


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noidea said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!
> 
> Might be keeping it as a spare.
> 
> No - never ordered a cover -
> 
> DC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think they are about £18 from TPS you also need a couple of clips to fit it, must have been left off as part of the weight saving my qS didn't have one either :lol:
Click to expand...

I think I might leave it without as whilst odd - it is a quirk of the QS


----------



## noidea

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noidea said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!
> 
> Might be keeping it as a spare.
> 
> No - never ordered a cover -
> 
> DC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think they are about £18 from TPS you also need a couple of clips to fit it, must have been left off as part of the weight saving my qS didn't have one either
Click to expand...

They are a bit more than that Andy, well certainly from the dealer. I think mine was £35 ish with discount. 
No extra clips needed just remove the two screws and fit the cover, then refit the screws.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## noidea

DC240S said:


> noidea said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!
> 
> Might be keeping it as a spare.
> 
> No - never ordered a cover -
> 
> DC
Click to expand...

Yes we talked at the Space centre, I have the silver qS, (Martyn)
Did you say you bought your new manifold off eBay or did I imagine that?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

noidea said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noidea said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> I might be interested in the old inlet manifold?
> 
> Did you order the air box cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Starting to learn who's who now!
> 
> Might be keeping it as a spare.
> 
> No - never ordered a cover -
> 
> DC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes we talked at the Space centre, I have the silver qS, (Martyn)
> Did you say you bought your new manifold off eBay or did I imagine that?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes - hi Martyn

I picked up the manifold at a TTS open day.

Hope to see some updates on your thread soon!

DC


----------



## DC240S

Some pics taken at this years VAG Tuner Live  
Chance to show off the newly refurbished alloys which I ensured kept the original diamond cut rim edge. They are unique to the car and have staggered widths 8J Fr and 8.5J Rr.

Great event and a LOT of VERY impressive cars!


----------



## DC240S

Picked up another set of alloys to save the original QS wheels!

BBS RT229 8.5Jx18 ET32 5x100 - manufactured by BBS exclusively for VAG styling partner MS Design, Austria.


----------



## Ian_W

Wow! They look fantastic.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## warrenstuart

I like the alloys a lot 

Are you going to AITP ?

Warren.


----------



## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> I like the alloys a lot
> 
> Are you going to AITP ?
> 
> Warren.


Cheers! Hopefully they will suit the car - might add some spacers as the ET means they are 6 -7mm in than the QS Wheels.

Unfortunately can't go AITP as Iam away.


----------



## warrenstuart

DC240S said:


> warrenstuart said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the alloys a lot
> 
> Are you going to AITP ?
> 
> Warren.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers! Hopefully they will suit the car - might add some spacers as the ET means they are 6 -7mm in than the QS Wheels.
> 
> Unfortunately can't go AITP as Iam away.
Click to expand...

That's a shame as i would of liked to see it in the flesh, next time maybe.

I agree with you're thoughts on the spacers, i think it will lose the look without them.

Warren.


----------



## DC240S

A little more on the Pole Positions.

Had a look underneath and they have the correct genuine identification stickers - so fitted from new with Phantom Black colour rather than the Misano Red.


----------



## DC240S

I've just received the x4 new BBS RSII centre hex nuts for the wheel centre plate securing mod.

I have the thread and Audi badges ordered. Anyone know if you can order the Audi centre badge for this hex nut separately?

Cheers,

DC


----------



## David C

DC240S said:


> Anyone know if you can order the Audi centre badge for this cap separately?


ETKA only has a p/n for the complete centre assembly (@ £46 each).

When I had mine apart for refurb I'm sure there was a p/n on the badge, probably a BBS p/n.


----------



## DC240S

David C said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if you can order the Audi centre badge for this cap separately?
> 
> 
> 
> ETKA only has a p/n for the complete centre assembly (@ £46 each).
> 
> When I had mine apart for refurb I'm sure there was a p/n on the badge, probably a BBS p/n.
Click to expand...

Interesting thanks! - Might be better to buy x4 of those than the individual components and sell the discs on.


----------



## David C

Just had a quick Google and found they are BBS p/n 09.24.511


----------



## DC240S

David C said:


> Just had a quick Google and found they are BBS p/n 09.24.511


Thanks - searched and found some on that number.


----------



## DC240S

Most mk1 owners will agree the engine bay trim panel retaining fastenings (plastic/dowel clips) are rubbish if you regularly fettle/clean around the engine!
Always liked the 42 Draft Designs engine bay trim fastenings with the aluminium dimpled machined washers that compliment the OE TT trim concept, their specific fit sizing and secure rivet fastening.

Managed to get a set and not disappointed with the quality! - however I am not such a fan of the blingy brightness so in order to tone things down and look more OE I've got a local company to anodise all the washers black - but keeping the Stainless M6 bolts for durability.

As supplied:


----------



## YELLOW_TT

I did the same but redrilled the dimples to match the Forge engine caps :idea:


----------



## DC240S

Not for me Yellow - as said I prefer the standard/original look without the show bling.

DC


----------



## DC240S

Recent acquisitions towards the eventual fitment of the BBS - H&R 12mm (fr) and 20mm (Rr) spacers.
With the 12mm fronts is anyone able to advise me on the length of bolt I would require?

Cheers,

DC


----------



## DC240S

Got my 42 Draft Design washers back from anodising today and I think they look fantastic! Looking forward to fitting them.

Thanks to theanodisingco.co.uk in Wigston, Leicester - worth chatting to Andrew if you have similar work (mention the chap with the red TT recommended you).


----------



## damien.wrl

They look superb, totally fed up with the plastic ones but also like the oemness, are you going to be able to use the washers without scratching?


----------



## DC240S

The anodising is quite durable - in normal use I am expecting it to last.

DC


----------



## DC240S

As nice as the mats I had were they weren't genuine Audi so I have bagged myself a set in the correct material and in Soul Black - before they become obsolete.


----------



## damien.wrl

Recently sourced some nos mats, my originals looked ok from the top but on the back they were wearing thin, they seem to be extremely hard wearing .... Took the originals out and stored but found very soon that the new ones were wearing on top... 
I am guessing if you are like me you will use the new ones only for show? If not get another set


----------



## DC240S

damien.wrl said:


> Recently sourced some nos mats, my originals looked ok from the top but on the back they were wearing thin, they seem to be extremely hard wearing .... Took the originals out and stored but found very soon that the new ones were wearing on top...
> I am guessing if you are like me you will use the new ones only for show? If not get another set


Much to the great amusement of others I have mats to protect the mats!


----------



## damien.wrl

DC240S said:


> damien.wrl said:
> 
> 
> 
> Recently sourced some nos mats, my originals looked ok from the top but on the back they were wearing thin, they seem to be extremely hard wearing .... Took the originals out and stored but found very soon that the new ones were wearing on top...
> I am guessing if you are like me you will use the new ones only for show? If not get another set
> 
> 
> 
> Much to the great amusement of others I have mats to protect the mats!
Click to expand...

The only way...... very impressed slightly jealous of your efforts on this car, wish I could burnish mine to a gleam but sadly mine is a daily ( old retired up to Sainsburys daily ) and I have a couple of weekend toys on which to lavish your level of detail. 
Keep up the good work, fanatical ocd is a fine and respectable disease


----------



## noidea

DC240S said:


> As noidea pointed out at EVENTT16 my mats weren't original (As nice as they are!) so I have bagged myself a set in the correct material and in Soul Black:


Where did you find them! Did they have anymore?
I have been after a new set and was struggling so I bought a second hand set.
Still looking for a new set though, I have two sets of aftermarket ones too!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

TPS were able to order them.

£42 (approx)


----------



## noidea

Really, ok I will give them a go. Can I ask how much?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## noidea

Cheers

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

A small update on my alternate wheels.

The required BBS threads arrived this week.


----------



## Ian_W

I can't wait to see these on the car.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## NWDSdaz

I think they will look great. Looking forward to seeing them fitted


----------



## warrenstuart

Lets just say if you don't like them the cash is here waiting... :wink:

Warren.


----------



## Metrics

DC240S said:


>


Very nice!

Is it me or do the centre caps look a different shade of silver?

Look forward to pics on the car.


----------



## DC240S

Cheers!

Oddly they do look a different shade in the photo's but they aren't - see the bottom two.

I need to now make some decisions on tyres.

DC


----------



## Metrics

DC240S said:


> Cheers!
> 
> Oddly they do look a different shade in the photo's but theY are not - see the bottom two.
> 
> I need to now make some decisions on tyres.
> 
> DC


Cameras and light can play tricks - as long as they look ok in the flesh, and given your eye for detail I'm sure they do.

I'm a big fan of Michelin tyres, but the latest Goodyear Eagle F1 seem to be the tyre of choice.


----------



## DC240S

With the tyres I also want to ensure it suits the rim with decent rim protection. In future I may go for different springs to very slightly reduce the ride height so will 235/40/18 still be suitable on an 8.5 J rim. I have Michelin Pilot Sport 3's at the mo and that affords a little stretch on this width.


----------



## warrenstuart

Similar to what you've just posted i have 235/40/18 Rainsport 3's on 8.5J rim and they offer a slight stretch but not really any rim protection at all.
Maybe need to find something with a real fat rim protector rib on them or go wider with a lower profile but then if you lower you don't want to have rubbing issues do you... it's all a balancing act :?

Warren.


----------



## Metrics

DC240S said:


> With the tyres I also want to ensure it suits the rim with decent rim protection. In future I may go for different springs to very slightly reduce the ride height so will 235/40/18 still be suitable on an 8.5 J rim. I have Michelin Pilot Sport 3's at the mo and that affords a little stretch on this width.


This is a tricky one to answer as without seeing the exact tyre you're considering on a 8.5 rim you'll not know. In my experience different tyres in the same size can look completely different, some are squarer shouldered than others, some look wider, and then rim protection profiles vary.

Factor in a different width and it becomes a bit of a lottery.


----------



## DC240S

Metrics said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> With the tyres I also want to ensure it suits the rim with decent rim protection. In future I may go for different springs to very slightly reduce the ride height so will 235/40/18 still be suitable on an 8.5 J rim. I have Michelin Pilot Sport 3's at the mo and that affords a little stretch on this width.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a tricky one to answer as without seeing the exact tyre you're considering on a 8.5 rim you'll not know. In my experience different tyres in the same size can look completely different, some are squarer shouldered than others, some look wider, and then rim protection profiles vary.
> 
> Factor in a different width and it becomes a bit of a lottery.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the replies.

On the previous pages you can see my QS wheels which at the rear are also 8.5J with 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 3's - I may go with this all round on the BBS.


----------



## Metrics

DC240S said:


> [On the previous pages you can see my QS wheels which at the rear are also 8.5J with 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 3's - I may go with this all round on the BBS.


You can't go wrong with Michelin - a case of getting what you pay for in my experience 

I think Pilot Sport 4's are out now?


----------



## ryanmtt

DC240S said:


> New and much brighter inlet manifold now fitted and coated in Collinite No. 845 - Insulator Wax.


Looks impressive how much was the new manifold

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

Thanks very much.

Picked the manifold up at an auto jumble for £35 IIRC. Though TTS did the removal/replacement of the original for me.

I intend to get the original blasted to restore to OE finish.


----------



## warrenstuart

DC240S said:


> I intend to get the original blasted to restore to OE finish.


Get it Vapour Blasted it's not so harsh and brings alloys up like new 8)

Warren.


----------



## DC240S

Not an earth shattering development but picked up a couple of these to keep things authentically original if (most likely when!) I renew the screen..


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Good plan, I am missing this too. Assuming you have an original on yours where is it positioned please?


----------



## DC240S

rusTTy_racer said:


> Good plan, I am missing this too. Assuming you have an original on yours where is it positioned please?


Nearside top corner - I'll get a pic tomorrow.


----------



## DC240S

The standard 312mmØ disc/single piston calliper front brake setup I've always felt looked a bit weedy and didn't match the concept/performance of the QS.

I was looking at Porsche calliper options but then managed find a practically new, complete first generation (Typ 1M; 1998-2005) SEAT Leon Cupra R setup consisting of Brembo 4-pot callipers, 323mmØ discs and Brembo pads. Sharing the same mk4 platform this is a VAG bolt on upgrade.

At just £500 this was a huge result - my Audi dealership quoted me £528 for front discs/pads fitted!.

Looking forward to getting them.

Ad images:


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Did you read the qS brochure they list the V6 front brake set up as fitted from the factory


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> Did you read the qS brochure they list the V6 front brake set up as fitted from the factory


Actually no I didn't! - Though thats the case isn't it? Same model on continent had V6 brakes. Thought about that route but believe this is better You have these on yours don't you?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you read the qS brochure they list the V6 front brake set up as fitted from the factory
> 
> 
> 
> Actually no I didn't! - Though thats the case isn't it? Same model on continent had V6 brakes. Thought about that route but believe this is better You have these on yours don't you?
Click to expand...

I have the ECS stage2 kit on mine 330mm two piece discs with the Brembo calipers


----------



## David C

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you read the qS brochure they list the V6 front brake set up as fitted from the factory
> 
> 
> 
> Actually no I didn't! - Though thats the case isn't it? Same model on continent had V6 brakes. Thought about that route but believe this is better You have these on yours don't you?
Click to expand...

The QS & Clubsport is the same car and I'm sure neither had the V6 brakes despite the brochures for both saying they did.
ETKA refers to the QS as "Clubsport" and it only lists the V6 brakes for the V6.


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you read the qS brochure they list the V6 front brake set up as fitted from the factory
> 
> 
> 
> Actually no I didn't! - Though thats the case isn't it? Same model on continent had V6 brakes. Thought about that route but believe this is better You have these on yours don't you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have the ECS stage2 kit on mine 330mm two piece discs with the Brembo calipers
Click to expand...

Ah Ok! - didn't know the V6 brakes were specced but then not fitted to any car.


----------



## DC240S

Brembo callipers have arrived and look new!

I started prepping them with removal of the hardware/pads, a good wash and inspection.
Will ultimately treat the paint to some products but first needed to touch in a couple of small chips.

The adapters were fairly rust free but I will treat them to a Bilt Hamber DEOX-C bath and Eastwoods Ultimate Chassis paint. Discs will get the same paint treatment as the previous 312mm discs for a nice clean OE look.

Light clean after arrival:














































Only parts 4 - 8 wont be used:


----------



## Ian_W

They look fantastic mate, going to look brilliant when teamed with the BBS.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## Metrics

Very nice, great buy!


----------



## DC240S

I've started refurbishing the caliper mounting brackets/adaptors - beginning with Nitromors to remove some very stubborn underbody seal that they've been painted with. Then I dremeled them with various brushes before placing in a Deox-C bath for 24 hours to remove all oxidisation. This should leave them ready for priming/paint and being non aggressive wont damage threads like blasting:


----------



## Westy-TT180

Big reds! Great buy mate, attention to detail is everything!  8)

I'm fitting mine on Saturday, along with coil overs, bushes etc, gonna be a busy Saturday for me!

Thankfully I've got access to a two post lift, brake bleed machine, press, four wheel alignment and any tool I need! [smiley=book2.gif]

I'll let you know if I get any problems on the brakes but I feel it's gonna be straight forward... :lol:


----------



## DC240S

Westy-TT180 said:


> Big reds! Great buy mate, attention to detail is everything!  8)
> 
> I'm fitting mine on Saturday, along with coil overs, bushes etc, gonna be a busy Saturday for me!
> 
> Thankfully I've got access to a two post lift, brake bleed machine, press, four wheel alignment and any tool I need! [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> I'll let you know if I get any problems on the brakes but I feel it's gonna be straight forward... :lol:


Really looking forward to fitting these - Can I ask what hose you've opted for?


----------



## Westy-TT180

I went for HEL TT/Brembo kit. They are braided but in black, again an eBay bargain I hunted down locally!

However the guy who did the refurbishment on my calipers sells them....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111046297526

[smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## Westy-TT180

Westy-TT180 said:


> I went for HEL TT/Brembo kit. They are braided but in black, again an eBay bargain I hunted down locally!
> 
> However the guy who did the refurbishment on my calipers sells them....
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111046297526
> 
> [smiley=book2.gif]


Also, don't forget your current splash guard is now too small.

We have two options, don't put one on or get a LCR or V6 TT one. Both are SERIOUSLY expensive [smiley=bigcry.gif] new. I'm hunting for some 2nd hand but haven't turned up much...


----------



## DC240S

Westy-TT180 said:


> Westy-TT180 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I went for HEL TT/Brembo kit. They are braided but in black, again an eBay bargain I hunted down locally!
> 
> However the guy who did the refurbishment on my calipers sells them....
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111046297526
> 
> [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> Also, don't forget your current splash guard is now too small.
> 
> We have two options, don't put one on or get a LCR or V6 TT one. Both are SERIOUSLY expensive [smiley=bigcry.gif] new. I'm hunting for some 2nd hand but haven't turned up much...
Click to expand...

I asked YELLOW_TT and he has removed his - I will see what TPS can do though I am tempted to remove them.
I do have these fitted though - and wonder what debris could be fired into the back of the disc.
http://www.thettshop.com/performance.as ... duct=60001


----------



## Westy-TT180

TPS are £38.65 each + vat! I just found it written down in my notebook [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## DC240S

After 8 hours in the BH Deox-C bath I checked to see how things were progressing. The darkening of the solution is from me agitating the components with a brush - its actually best to remove and agitate/rinse parts in a separate container/stream of water to avoid the solution getting dirty:










Progressing well!


----------



## Westy-TT180

DC240S said:


> Got to love the power and magic of Deox-C!
> 
> 8 hours from putting in I popped out to see how things were progressing.
> 
> The darkening of the solution means its working - and the rust has lifted.
> 
> 
> 
> Lifted the parts out for a quick look - progressing well!


I need to purchase some this stuff! WOW!


----------



## DC240S

I've been using it for years! - its a very addictive process `nd you go looking for parts to treat!


----------



## DC240S

Following the BH Deox-C treatment and a thorough wash/dry I applied 2x coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Primer and x3 Coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (Satin).

I used M6x12mm hex flange black stainless steel bolts to fill the redundent bracket mounts.

Some before and afters:


----------



## Jay-225

Looking excellent mate 

They are awesome brakes and inspire a lot of confidence, pedal feel is also brilliant 

As above just get rid of the splash guards , i looked into fitting the leon ones but quickly looked away when i saw the price for 2 bits of tin :roll:

I am using Goodridge braided hoses which get rid of the metal pipe that connects the calipers to the standard rubber hoses , the Goodridge uses a banjo fixing to connect to the caliper.


----------



## Westy-TT180

DC240S said:


> I've been using it for years! - its a very addictive process `nd you go looking for parts to treat!


It'll have me stripping off rusty parts from underneath :lol:

Where'd you purchase it from DC? Please?


----------



## DC240S

Westy-TT180 said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using it for years! - its a very addictive process `nd you go looking for parts to treat!
> 
> 
> 
> It'll have me stripping off rusty parts from underneath :lol:
> 
> Where'd you purchase it from DC? Please?
Click to expand...

Direct from Bilt Hamber or a search online using the product name should provide a number of sellers - I'd recommend up sizing on quantity - as I said its a very addictive (process).

I have an Electroplating kit too - thank god I haven't touched that yet! - I was planning on plating the four calliper mounting bolts shown here - may still.


----------



## Westy-TT180

DC240S said:


> Westy-TT180 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using it for years! - its a very addictive process `nd you go looking for parts to treat!
> 
> 
> 
> It'll have me stripping off rusty parts from underneath :lol:
> 
> Where'd you purchase it from DC? Please?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Direct from Bilt Hamber or a search online using the product name should provide a number of sellers - I'd recommend up sizing on quantity - as I said its a very addictive (process).
> 
> I have an Electroplating kit too - thank god I haven't touched that yet! - I was planning on plating the four calliper mounting bolts shown here - may still.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, found some, bought some, but yet to use it!

However, fitted big greys today, along with a whole host of other things, all suspension bushes, tie arms, cookbots, coil overs, spacers...busy day!

Gave them a bedding in on the 65mile drive home from workshop, pedal feel and bite is incredible, even with another good 100+miles bedding still to do! YOU won't be disappointed! 

I'll post some fitted pictures tomorrow on your thread if you don't mind, don't want clog your thread with my BIG greys! :arrow:


----------



## DC240S

I love doing this sort of renovation! I was going to electroplate everything gold from a total coverage perspective - but that may be to far! plus Its a process I've yet to try.

I also ordered replacement Stainless Steel Torx Screws for the Caliper Plates.


----------



## YT-TT

Awesome thread, car and attention to detail! 8)


----------



## DC240S

-


----------



## Westy-TT180

DC240S said:


> Recent arrival as part of the caliper prep.
> 
> Porsche Guards Red paint - which I am assured is a match for the Brembo Red but we will see. Will now touch in a couple of small chips (I suspect caused when shipped) before re-assembly.
> 
> I know - slow progress! - many people could have bought and sold a car by the time these are fitted.


Looking fresh mate!

I've already got a chip on one of the big greys, a stone must of flicked up from inside and hit the top outside facing bolt, nasty little chip too [smiley=bigcry.gif] looks like I'm gonna have to get those gold plated priced stone guards from TPS :?

When you gonna get yours fitted?


----------



## DC240S

Cheers! Would like these on but Iam a couple of parts short - braided lines, splash plates and longer wheel bolts for the spacers. I would also like to give the discs some paint before fitting.

Price of those plates is hard to digest! Shame we can't arrange a cheaper price on quantity!


----------



## sco

Did you get the caliper plate screws out?

Simon.


----------



## DC240S

sco said:


> Did you get the caliper plate screws out?
> 
> Simon.


Yes - they were a real challenge! New stainless replacements ready.


----------



## Westy-TT180

DC240S said:


> Cheers! Would like these on but Iam a couple of parts short - braided lines, "gold plated" splash plates and longer wheel bolts for the spacers. I would also like to give the discs some paint before fitting.
> 
> Price of those plates is hard to digest! Shame we can't arrange a cheaper price on quantity!
> 
> 
> 
> Westy-TT180 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Recent arrival as part of the caliper prep.
> 
> Porsche Guards Red paint - which I am assured is a match for the Brembo Red but we will see. Will now touch in a couple of small chips (I suspect caused when shipped) before re-assembly.
> 
> I know - slow progress! - many people could have bought and sold a car by the time these are fitted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking fresh mate!
> 
> I've already got a chip on one of the big greys, a stone must of flicked up from inside and hit the top outside facing bolt, nasty little chip too [smiley=bigcry.gif] looks like I'm gonna have to get those gold plated priced stone guards from TPS :?
> 
> When you gonna get yours fitted?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Now there's a thought...let me talk to my mate, he's a audi master tech @ the local dealer, maybe some staff discount on a pair of each could be arranged [smiley=gossip.gif] - I asked him before but he was long and forgot, so I called TPS.

I'll give him a ring tomorrow [smiley=argue.gif]

I'll PM you mate when I've spoke with him


----------



## DC240S

Started the install of the new lockset and hit a stumbling block with the airbag activation switch in the glovebox. 
Prising the switch out from the front is difficult as the clips are strong - to the point that I damaged it  
If anyone needs to remove this - remove the glovebox and push out from the back.

Not something I could live with even though its hidden! - so purchased a new bare switch from Audi ready to accept the new barrel. An expensive mistake at £59!

I hope to replace the door and ignition barrels soon.


----------



## DC240S

Back in June BEFORE I changed the discs, pads and backplates gave me the opportunity to further clean the arches (using Bilt Hamber surfex HD) and on the back remove a liner to reposition clean/check behind. Everything's looking pretty good! - There is some light corrosion in places on the suspension components which I will tackle next year. Bilt Hamber dynax-UC was strategically applied before replacing the arch liner.


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Better than when it left the factory!


----------



## DC240S

rusTTy_racer said:


> Better than when it left the factory!


Thanks ! I wish it was - but Ill do may best.


----------



## DC240S

I've now finished prepping the 323mmØ Leon Cupra R discs ready for fitting. After thorough clean a little localised work with the dremel I put them in a BH Deox-C bath for 24hrs to remove any trace of corrosion - particularly within the cooling veins. Then after a thorough clean/degrease I hand painted inside all the cooling veins with silver Rust-oleum BBQ/Stove paint for total coverage. Once dry I masked up the disc surfaces and spray these with several light coats of Rust-oleum BBQ/Stove paint.


----------



## DC240S

With the car currently SORNED the brake work is finally coming together!

I've now received the HEL braided stainless steel hoses which incorporate a 90º male connector at the caliper.


----------



## D13hpd95

DC240S said:


> Happy new year to all!
> 
> Thought I'd start the year with a quick post.
> 
> TT currently SORNED so SLOWLY coming together! - Hel Stainless hoses arrived to include 90º male connectors at the caliper.
> 
> Now debating wether to use back plates or run without them - the later meaning I can finally think about fitting them.


its one of those 50/50 things, id fit them for the factory look in a nice gloss black, adds some protection, but pricey and likelihood of debris causing damage i guess is slim but id have them if I'm honest but up to you


----------



## DC240S

Building up for a significant spring workshop fitting lots of new parts.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Building up for a significant spring workshop fitting all the new parts at once - BBS, Brembo's, etc.
> Will post up fitted pics ASAP.
> 
> In the meantime found/purchased something else to add. New stock now obsolete genuine Audi front mudflaps. These should keep the paint and flanks chip free this year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have a second used set of these in excellent condition I intend to sell on or swop for a set of rears.


Make sure you put some clear vinyl on the paint work behind them befor fitting or they will mark the paint


----------



## DC240S

Thanks YELLOW

I already knew to do this from yours!


----------



## SC0TTRS

Lovely QS and the attention to detail is nice to see 

btw, Deox-C solution...does it come in a car size container? love to drop my TT in a bath of it for a few days! haha


----------



## DC240S

SC0TTRS said:


> Lovely QS and the attention to detail is nice to see
> 
> btw, Deox-C solution...does it come in a car size container? love to drop my TT in a bath of it for a few days! haha


Thanks

They sell Deox-C in 25kg tubs! - lol


----------



## E

Will the rears fit with the QS spats?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

E said:


> Will the rears fit with the QS spats?


Yes I had some fitted to my qS in the past


----------



## Timmy

I love the quattro sport. Lovely car. I'm looking to get one soon. Seen a few without the buckets in though? Were they an option or has some cheeky blighter whipped them out before selling?


----------



## DC240S

Timmy said:


> I love the quattro sport. Lovely car. I'm looking to get one soon. Seen a few without the buckets in though? Were they an option or has some cheeky blighter whipped them out before selling?


There was a no cost option to have "comfort" standard seats (with Alcantara) when new instead of the Pole Position seats. The back of the Pole Position seats should be colour coded to the cars colour however my car was fitted with phantom black backed seats from new.


----------



## jev

Metrics said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> Is it me or do the centre caps look a different shade of silver?
> 
> Look forward to pics on the car.
Click to expand...

Hi there I absolutely love the red QS. You have a lucky find there great and rare car. Where did you manage to get new original mats from? I would like to throw. Some money at mats.


----------



## DC240S

jev said:


> Hi there I absolutely love the red QS. You have a lucky find there great and rare car. Where did you manage to get new original mats from? I would like to throw. Some money at mats.


Thanks very much.

Hard to believe but I just ordered the mats from TPS.


----------



## jev

Sorry another Q what wheels are they your going to fit 19inch? Very nice wheels.


----------



## DC240S

jev said:


> Sorry another Q what wheels are they your going to fit 19inch? Very nice wheels.


They are 18 inch BBS RT 229 - A bit of a rarity I gather so very happy.


----------



## Matt240QS

Just found this thread and read 16 pages straight looks like a great car you have cant wait to see those caliper and wheels fitted.


----------



## DC240S

Unfortunately I don't have the benefit of a garage to keep the TT whilst SORNed so its been exposed to the elements.

Though washed regularly today's inspection did highlight I need to plan another detailing session to remove some new contaminants and top up the last stage protection.

Today's wash started with Auto Finesse Avalanche Snow Foam (my neighbours think I am completely mad!!), followed with a two bucket wash using Megs Gold shampoo/WoWo lambs wool wash mitts and then patted dry with WoWo drying towels aided by a spray of Megs quick detailer.

After Dodo Juice Lime Prime I applied a coat of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax as interim protection till I sort another wax/sealant.

No finished pics as I didn't want to put the car on the road plus TBH I always feel embarrassed taking pics - lol


----------



## Ian_W

I'm sure it came out looking well 8)


----------



## NWDSdaz

Just had mine coated in gtechniq crystal serum light and I couldn't recommended it anymore. If looked after correctly can last up to 5 years and the sheeting is amazing, so much less effort when it comes to drying.


----------



## DC240S

Taxed the QS today in preparation of the first drive in 3.5 months.

Predictably the Battery was dead though - what a faff! Need a battery maintainer - any recommendations at reasonable price?

Also where are the charging points under the bonnet?

DC


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Also where are the charging points under the bonnet?
> 
> DC


Under the battery cover


----------



## watersbluebird

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also where are the charging points under the bonnet?
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> Under the battery cover
Click to expand...


----------



## YELLOW_TT

watersbluebird said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also where are the charging points under the bonnet?
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> Under the battery cover
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

The qS battery is in the boot but there are places you can connect a charger to under the battery cover


----------



## DC240S

Yeah! so there! Thanks Yellow - I'am being lazy and haven't looked or checked the Bentley either - are they obvious.


----------



## cam69

I've got a c-tek 3.8 it cost £50 I've had my qs plugged in all winter and has kept the battery good.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Yeah! so there! Thanks Yellow - I'am being lazy and haven't looked or checked the Bentley either - are they obvious.


The earth point is at the bottom of the battery box on the inner wing the + point is the thickest wire with the black cable on the fuse box on top of the battery tray


----------



## david924s

The battery maintainer/chargers I have (one for my camper and one for my motorbike) both came with a cable which could be permanently wired to the battery terminals and has a socket on the end for the charger to plug into, you can then route this cable to somewhere with an easy access to save removing the battery cover each time.


----------



## DC240S

Aside from sourcing a battery maintainer had a little surprise arrive in the post today - thats the great thing about long delivery times from China - you forget what you ordered!

Its a rather lovely soft touch silicone sleeve/cover for my key. Fit and finish is perfect - very happy so will be ordering a couple more.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Aside from sourcing a battery maintainer had a little surprise arrive in the post today - thats the great thing about long delivery times from China - you forget what you ordered!
> 
> Its a rather lovely soft touch silicone sleeve/cover for my key. Fit and finish is perfect - very happy so will be ordering a couple more.


I bought the same one in whits for my Golf keys they are very soft lol


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Vag do sell replacement 3 button pads that fit into the key for a couple of quid each for the OEM look but guess you know that!


----------



## DC240S

A trip out to Rockingham Raceway yesterday for a TTOC/charity event. As always great to be amongst other TT's and enthusiasts.


----------



## DC240S

An unexpected and rare occurrence - the chance to see Audi's own Misano Red Quattro Sport Press Office car. Brought along by the art editor for Modern Classics magazine to whom it has been loaned as part of the research for a future article.

Very special indeed - particularly with only 5000 miles.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Common as muck those red qS TTs not like the much sort after avus silver :wink: :lol:


----------



## jamman

YELLOW_TT said:


> Common as muck those red qS TTs not like the much sort after avus silver :wink: :lol:


225/qS Not sure what the difference is boys .... :wink:


----------



## YELLOW_TT

jamman said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Common as muck those red qS TTs not like the much sort after avus silver :wink: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 225/qS Not sure what the difference is boys .... :wink:
Click to expand...

qS drivers are more handsome that's the big difference :wink: :lol:


----------



## DC240S

The spring weather brought about some fettling today.

I've been one of the many to benefit from Halfords discontinuing its Spark Plug ranges - picking up multiple packs of NGK33 PFR6Q plugs for £8 ea.!! The plugs were last changed about almost 3 years and 12k miles ago so not really due but I set about changing them anyway - which was my first time with a 1.8T BFV engine.










Whilst I was at and as parts were removed I cleaned what I could see. Coils came out easily though I did manage to brake the retaining clip on one of the multiplugs when undoing by applying to much force.










New plugs were pre gapped accurately at 0,8 mm as OE spec from the pack and these went in with the assistance of a magnetic Spark Plug socket/extension I originally purchased for a 16v ABF engine.


----------



## DC240S

After the plugs I decided to begin cleaning deeper into the engine bay. This is only the initial first clean of this area - I aim to continually improve the standard and tackle individual bolts, brackets and casings maybe some electroplating too.

I used Bildhamber Surfex HD diluted fairly strong, Bilberry Wheel cleaner and various detailing/wheel brushes. After a wash mitt/megs gold clean everything was patted dry and dressed with AG Vinyl & rubber and Aerospace 303.
The aim is to continue to improve the look and protect from any further corrosion so I have been looking for product recommendations? I've been considering Raceglaze AluBright and Jet Laq?





































Also gave the air box a thorough clean inside and out to remove particles and serviced the air filter.










Done for the day!


----------



## DC240S

Finally got round to fitting the new rear splash plates - the old ones were really getting on my nerves.



















The old










The new:










Whilst I had parts removed I carried out some corrosion suppression on the suspension/running gear using Bilt Hamber products.
Its not the worst underneath by far but I aim to progressively replace, repaint and electroplate various parts in time.

Back together:










I'm going to refurbish the caliper carrier but need to decide between plating or painting VHT Silver caliper paint?


----------



## DC240S

A couple of pics from last weekends day out at the Stanford Hall VW show.

Cars always look great on grass!? I hope to have an update fitting the Brembo front callipers soon!


----------



## DC240S

Today I finally fitted the SEAT Leon Cupra R Brembo's, genuine 323 mm discs and Hel braided lines I've had stored for months. I will keep the original set up to satisfy the purist in me!

All layed out ready.










Had to fit the slider plates and NEW stainless steel bolts:


----------



## DC240S

Original 312mm single piston setup.










New 323mm 4 piston Brembo setup with Hel braided lines.


----------



## DC240S

I then went out for a drive to go through the exercise of bedding in the pads to the discs - Its clear straight away theres more force available.


----------



## gogs

Look great DC

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Is that a spec of dust on the inner arch?... Oh no, my mistake :lol: Have you though of going on OCD car cleaners :roll:

(Just jealous - lol - looks amazing  )


----------



## DC240S

I know there will be a lot of people who will say I should have kept it standard.

However with the standard setup I had a number of issues: the uneven disc wear/pad issues, average performance/feel (even with Ferodo DS2500 pads, fluid change and new discs), extremely underwhelming appearance and the fact they ideally needed a repaint/refurb.
The new setup was a bargain at £500 (as effectively new!), obvious performance advantages (further improvement possible), even/equal function, easy pad change, compatible with master cylinder, VAG OE fitment and look far more suited (I can always retro fit the standard parts).

Fitment really was straight forward - the only difficulty was engaging the female end of the Hel line in the bulkhead mounted bracket (below image). The bracket aperture is slightly to small and requires enlarging with some strategic force or filing.










The convex sprung clip that retains the hose on the strut (also seen above) requires further bending in a vice to ensure its secure.

I can't wait to bed them in however my choice of a 12mm H&R hubcentric spacer creates to much outset - so I'm waiting for a 8mm H&R hubcentric spacer to be delivered. The 12mm will then go on the rear.


----------



## 3TT3

nice and waaay clean..puts me off every posting underbody pics of mine :lol:


----------



## DC240S

3TT3 said:


> nice and waaay clean..puts me off every posting underbody pics of mine :lol:


To be fair I was lucky to be in a good starting place!


----------



## BrianB

Amazing attention to detail...........absolutely stunning.


----------



## DC240S

8mm H&R hub centric spacers arrived and now fitted.



















The outset increase is very subtle - just brings the rim in line with the arch, and theres approx 8mm clearance to the caliper.


----------



## DC240S

A couple of images today (whilst out to bed the brakes in) with the spacers fitted - I think its a very subtle change and suits well. I look next into possibly fitting the mudflaps.


----------



## gogs

Spot on mate

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Westy-TT180

Looks fresh pal!


----------



## DC240S

Modern Classics Magazine have been running an "Our Drives" feature on the TTQS and a chance meeting with Simon (Art Editor) at a TTOC event resulted in conversation about ownership and a little feature in the June edition. He'd been very generously loaned a 5000 mile Misano red QS from Audi's press fleet and appeared to be enjoying it!. The QS has certainly had an increased profile recently.

Thanks to Simon for the inclusion - great to see my car in print - however I'm now forever going to be ridiculed for the mention of using cling film to protect my interior!


----------



## NARGE QS

Hi ive just joined the forum,

I have recently purchased a audi tt quattro sport in black.

It failed its MOT on wishbone bushes therefore i have started doing some of the mods i wanted to do while its off the road. i want to keep it very subtle and stock looking with discreet upgrades.

I have so far installed:

- 3" TIP
- FORGE DV008
- POLISHED INLET AND CHARGE PIPE
- PHENOLIC SPACER
- PIPERCROSS PANEL FILTER WITH WAK BOX MOD
- ENGINE BOLT DRESS UP KIT 
- CHARGE PIPE HEAT SHIELD

I sent off my steering wheel and gear knob off to jack at royal steering wheels to get refurbished in fresh alcantara (waiting on it to return)

i also have a set of Cupra R brembo 4 pot front calipers that i have sent off to be refurbished.

I will post some pics in the next few days or so.

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## DC240S

Welcome and great choice with the QS.

Happy to give advice when I can! I would suggest starting your own build thread all about your TT

DC



NARGE QS said:


> Hi ive just joined the forum,
> 
> I have recently purchased a audi tt quattro sport in black.
> 
> It failed its MOT on wishbone bushes therefore i have started doing some of the mods i wanted to do while its off the road. i want to keep it very subtle and stock looking with discreet upgrades.
> 
> I have so far installed:
> 
> - 3" TIP
> - FORGE DV008
> - POLISHED INLET AND CHARGE PIPE
> - PHENOLIC SPACER
> - PIPERCROSS PANEL FILTER WITH WAK BOX MOD
> - ENGINE BOLT DRESS UP KIT
> - CHARGE PIPE HEAT SHIELD
> 
> I sent off my steering wheel and gear knob off to jack at royal steering wheels to get refurbished in fresh alcantara (waiting on it to return)
> 
> i also have a set of Cupra R brembo 4 pot front calipers that i have sent off to be refurbished.
> 
> I will post some pics in the next few days or so.
> 
> Any other advise would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## 3TT3

[smiley=cheers.gif] 
Some very exact/expensive machining to continue the cb same size on 8mm .


----------



## DC240S

Yesterday I prepped and painted the new retaining plate for the headlamp levelling sensor (1J0941355C) to replace the corroded original (visible above behind the strut). Its one of those little details that you can see/notice through the wheel I didn't have time to do previously.

These come roughly painted silver from the manufacturer however for extra durability I flatted the coating and gave it 3 coats of both VHT silver and VHT lacquer. I've also sourced replacement stainless M6 (black coated) collar nuts to secure the plate and M5 x 10mm low head socket cap screws for securing the sensor. Fitting pics soon.


----------



## infidel.uk

that's a very nice looking retaining plate if ever i saw one. 8)


----------



## DC240S

infidel.uk said:


> that's a very nice looking retaining plate if ever i saw one. 8)


I know! I wish I could care less.


----------



## infidel.uk

DC240S said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> that's a very nice looking retaining plate if ever i saw one. 8)
> 
> 
> 
> I know! I wish I could care less.
Click to expand...

once you go down this road, its hard to put on the brakes. :wink:


----------



## DC240S

infidel.uk said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> that's a very nice looking retaining plate if ever i saw one. 8)
> 
> 
> 
> I know! I wish I could care less.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> once you go down this road, its hard to put on the brakes. :wink:
Click to expand...

Yes - I "put the brakes on" already now I'm doing the other bits! LOL


----------



## BrianB

Amazing attention to detail


----------



## philclemo

BrianB said:


> Amazing attention to detail


I know, feeling the need to do mine now. It's a rocky road!


----------



## whoopsie

Just read all this thread... OMG! Fantastic and looking forward to seeing how much you can "improve" it. Wish we got the Sport down under.


----------



## DC240S

whoopsie said:


> Just read all this thread... OMG! Fantastic and looking forward to seeing how much you can "improve" it. Wish we got the Sport down under.


Thanks very much!

Here's one that made it to Australia and was for sale with only 18k:


----------



## whoopsie

Thanks for the link DC, too bad... I'm 3 years too late to bag it. I know the dealer involved, bet it was $$$$$!!!


----------



## DC240S

This weekend I fitted the headlight levelling sensor mounting plate in the NS wheel arch. Whilst the wheel was off I decided to remove the arch liner to ensure everything was clean behind - knowing there are some mud traps that can cause corrosion issues. After 11 years I was surprised and relieved to see how little muck there was - which I set about cleaning away with Bilt-Hamber™ Surfex HD and AG tar remover (ran out of Tardis) after which I applied a couple of coats of both Megs cleaner wax and Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.
Some before and afters:














































Some of the liner retaining screws had started to loose some of their black finish so I gave these a wire brushing using a dremel then a few coats of both etch primer and satin finish chassis paint.


----------



## SamDorey

Good job, looks brand new


----------



## DC240S

Whilst the paint dried on the screws I replaced the headlight levelling sensor mounting plate - some before and afters.



















I then refitted the arch liner but before I did I gave all hidden areas a good coat of Waxoyl using a sprayer. Liners were dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant.
Still lots more to do in time - some completed shots with everything back together:


----------



## 3TT3

mine when Ive had the liners off a few times and given the area a qwik clean with a dustpan brush look like your before !.
(my excuse is I dont want to remove too many spider habitats :lol: )
Some of the retaining plugs I replaced with "rawlplug" substitutes .
Havent painted the torx screws either 
Definitely clean !


----------



## DC240S

3TT3 said:


> mine when Ive had the liners off a few times and given the area a qwik clean with a dustpan brush look like your before !.
> (my excuse is I dont want to remove too many spider habitats :lol: )
> Some of the retaining plugs I replaced with "rawlplug" substitutes .
> Havent painted the torx screws either
> Definitely clean !


 :lol:

If I had known you can buy identical torx screws in quantity cheaply I wouldn't have faffed painting them. Where possible if its cheap I do like to replace fastenings with new OE, or stainless steel equivalents if they match. Like the stainless M5X10 bolts below which are identical to N 10434301 which secures the levelling sensor - x10 for £2


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Great work as always  The H/L sensor plate - was that new or did you repaint one as the finish looks too god for OEM! :lol:


----------



## DC240S

Cheers!

Mounting plate is new but was repainted as the coating from Audi isn't that great - which is to be expected for what it is. Always worth checking with TPS/Audi the prices of items like this as it might not be worth the effort refurbishing the original


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> mine when Ive had the liners off a few times and given the area a qwik clean with a dustpan brush look like your before !.
> (my excuse is I dont want to remove too many spider habitats :lol: )
> Some of the retaining plugs I replaced with "rawlplug" substitutes .
> Havent painted the torx screws either
> Definitely clean !
> 
> 
> 
> :lol:
> 
> If I had known you can buy identical torx screws in quantity cheaply I wouldn't have faffed painting them. Where possible if its cheap I do like to replace fastenings with new OE, or stainless steel equivalents if they match. Like the stainless M5X10 bolts below which are identical to N 10434301 which secures the levelling sensor - x10 for £2
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to these


----------



## DC240S

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5-M6-A ... 2749.l2649

For replacement arch liner Torx 25 screws (N 90775001) I also found these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-x-VW-AUDI- ... Sw44BYEJRL

I would prefer/like some in stainless steel though.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5-M6-A2-STAINLESS-LOW-HEAD-SOCKET-CAP-SCREWS-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-HEX-HEAD/191476695214?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=490561386234&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Cheers


----------



## DC240S

MOT today at Leicester Audi.

Typically the brake pad warning light has come on (again)? - This has happened before since I fitted the Brembo's and despite checking connections/wiring keeps happening.


----------



## DC240S

MOT passed - just one advisory for the brake pad warning light being on. Annoyingly this has now gone out of its own accord!

Complimentary health check advised front pads as 50% worn? Odd as they are new!? :roll:


----------



## Ben.W

Just joined and been looking through the build threads, I have to say the attention to detail here is amazing!


----------



## DC240S

Really good day at AITP9 Show yesterday. Just a few mk1 TT's there!! 8) 
http://www.audisinthepark.co.uk/. Lots of detailing inspiration/motivation.

I machine polished the whole drivers side, bonnet and boot lid before hand as this was an outstanding job on my to do list. There are still areas that could be improved - though I'd like to get a depth gauge before I progress any further. I'm achieving good results with Menzerna IP/CG Orange Hex-Logic pad followed by Final Finish/CG White Hex-Logic pad - after that I've been using Chemical Guys - EZ Glaze (as its what I have) and various waxes (AG HD/Megs NXT/Collonite) though I'm keen to try Fusso products.


----------



## Ian_W

Looks fantastic, you should be proud.

Are you still planning on fitting the BBS you bought? Suppose they would take away the OEM look which would be a shame on this I think.


----------



## DC240S

Ian_W said:


> Looks fantastic, you should be proud.
> 
> Are you still planning on fitting the BBS you bought? Suppose they would take away the OEM look which would be a shame on this I think.


Cheers!

Still plan on having the BBS as an alternative set of wheels - they have similar characteristics to the originals (one spoke more) so I think will suit well - the centre cap isn't actually a different shade.


----------



## DC240S

Today decided to delete the rear tow eye mount - mine has lost its cover and was starting to look unsightly and It sticks out to far below the bumper.

I will refurbish/repaint it, order a new cover and decide then if I reinstall it - It also weighs 2kg (including bolts).


----------



## DC240S

Looking at all the immaculate mk1's and other Audi at the AITP compelled me to detail the hatch shuts as I had neglected them to this point. Behind the plastic hinge cover had become a crud and dust trap that looked a mess and would seep out down the shuts.

I removed both hinge covers (thankfully without braking them!):



















Gave this all a rinse out with water then using a detailing brush applied diluted Bilt Hamber Surfex HD before rinsing again. Then I applied Menzerna IP and final finish by hand before a coat of Glaze and several coats of Megs NXT.





































I like this one as you can see the metallic fleck in the Phantom Black:










All finished. Rubber seals where rubbed clean with alcohol to remove any polish residue and coated with 303 Aerospace Protectant.


----------



## warrenstuart

DC240S said:


> Really good day at AITP9 Show yesterday. Just a few mk1 TT's there!! 8)


Thought I recognised the reg, stood talking to you for a while... doh!


----------



## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really good day at AITP9 Show yesterday. Just a few mk1 TT's there!! 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I recognised the reg, stood talking to you for a while... doh!
Click to expand...

:roll:

Good to chat to you! - Thats the problem with forums - you know the car more than the owner.


----------



## DC240S

Today I began the process of refurbishing the the rear tow eye bracket. This was degreased then corrosion was removed with a combination of sanding discs, dremel grinding bits and various grades of sandpaper. After a further clean its now in a bath of Bilt Hamber Deox-C for 24 hours prior to priming.


----------



## DC240S

After 2 coats of Eastwoods' Extreme Chassis Primer and three coats of Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black its ready to refit.

I love painting stuff! regardless where its located on the car.


----------



## gogs

That's came up well DC 

Sent via carrier pigeon


----------



## DC240S

gogs said:


> That's came up well DC
> 
> Sent via carrier pigeon


Cheers gogs! - piece by piece. 2 more coats to apply - going to use it as a durability test before doing the same on more major components.


----------



## gogs

Good shout, be interested in hearing your thoughts over time

Sent via carrier pigeon


----------



## deanoc123

Just read the whole thread start to finish - absolutely stunning and a real credit to you.

I'm on the hunt for a QS and now they are all going to look a bit shabby in comparison 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## Gleebag

Class car!


----------



## Westy-TT180

Good work DC!

Attention to detail as always!


----------



## DC240S

deanoc123 said:


> Just read the whole thread start to finish - absolutely stunning and a real credit to you.
> 
> I'm on the hunt for a QS and now they are all going to look a bit shabby in comparison
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


Thanks all,

deanoc123 - best of luck finding one yourself! When looking don't be to dismissive - its all about compromise - assess what you can accept and what can be improved in time as part of ownership. Very few if any are perfect! - including mine which the project is to constantly improve.

I think you could be fairly confident any will hold near the price you negotiate.


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> After 2 coats of Eastwoods' Extreme Chassis Primer, the first of three coats of Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black.
> 
> I love painting stuff! regardless where its located on the car.
> 
> IMG_2455 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> IMG_2590 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> IMG_2592 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr


Looks really good, just out of interest would you recommend the eastwoods products over powder coating on removable body/suspension components?
Or are you waiting to see how the tow fitting holds up?
Thanks Brian.


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Looks really good, just out of interest would you recommend the eastwoods products over powder coating on removable body/suspension components?
> Or are you waiting to see how the tow fitting holds up?
> Thanks Brian.


I've not been impressed by powder coating. It chips easy, is more difficult to repair and I never liked the blasting process - leaving parts susceptible to corrosion.

Jury's out on Eastwood's - I've used it before but didn't prep/prime well and it ultimately failed. It does claim to be a very suitable product and this time I've been very meticulous in process. A key benefit is you can conduct localised repairs of your work if required later - It also covers/applies really well and looks very OE.

They also have a rust encapsulator product you can substitute the primer for - so with items receiving the Deox-C process first I'm hoping for great things.


----------



## DC240S

Ready to refit after giving the inside surfaces of the box a coating of dynax S-50 corrosion protection.


----------



## DC240S

Reverse of the cover showing part number for those wishing to order one - £2.41


----------



## DC240S

Scanning eBay as you do for NOS original parts I came across a listing for a NEW genuine Audi Alcantara trimmed steering wheel - a direct replacement for my original. As the Alcantara of my original wheel showed some wear I sold it (foolishly) to cover the cost and ordered one from eBay. However when it turned up it was quickly apparent the Alcantara wasn't the correct shade as the trim in my car.

It was actually less of a match than this image shows.










A week later and I receive a replacement wheel from the seller in yet another shade - both new wheels shown here with my seat cushion material (hidden area) in the middle.










I've given up now and returned the wheels for a refund - so now have no steering wheel (extra security) and can't use the car. I hope to have one next week that I will be getting re-trimmed to match so in the meantime I've occupied myself painting more rusty brackets.

This one that sits just in front of the inlet manifold that the trim piece/cover around the dipstick mounts to, can be seen when looking round the engine bay and the rust was annoying the hell out of me.


----------



## Delta4

I'm thinking that over time the seat material has faded so will never match what ever the new material that the seller is using


----------



## DC240S

I know what your saying however my car has been garaged most its life plus the original material I've shown is a hidden piece of seat material and protected from sunlight. Plus I've checked my material against Audi's press car and a QS with 2k miles.


----------



## Delta4

Physically taking your car to a trimmer is the way forward in order to eliminate disappointment in the future


----------



## DC240S

Delta4 said:


> Physically taking your car to a trimmer is the way forward in order to eliminate disappointment in the future


Thats what I've arranged to do - I'm told its dark grey 9002.

The alleged NOS wheel/s I purchased were nowhere near and had manufacture dates of 2001/2003 and 8E0 part numbers so I suspect where re-trimmed A4 wheels or just not the correct part.


----------



## DC240S

With the bracket out of the way I cleaned the hidden areas behind. I applied BiltHamber surfex HD diluted, agitated with various brushes, lightly rinsed with water, dried, then wiped over with AG Vinyl & Rubber Care. Some excess (gloss) still to remove.

In the future I'll revisit some of the oxidisation on the castings and alloy components to improve those.


----------



## DC240S

Bracket and cover now re-fitted - another little detail completed.


----------



## imartyn

DC240S said:


> A week later and I receive a replacement wheel from the seller in yet another shade - both new wheels shown here with my seat cushion material (hidden area) in the middle.
> 
> IMG_2632 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> I've given up now and returned the wheels for a refund - so now have no steering wheel (extra security) and can't use the car. I hope to have one next week that I will be getting re-trimmed to match so in the meantime I've occupied myself painting more rusty brackets.


I've also have been trying to find a wheel re trimmer that doesn't only offer Black or Charcoal (9002), though to be fair 9002 is the nearest I've got to a match for the seats but the wheels always look way lighter than the seats, mine certainly does and I think I've looked at every picture there is of QS interiors on Google & Autotrader, and then the handbrake seems to be somewhere in between the two :roll:

As you say a visit to a trimmer who has a bunch of swatches is the only way to go as photos are so misleading.

Keep up the good work, your car looks amazing.


----------



## DC240S

imartyn said:


> I've also have been trying to find a wheel re trimmer that doesn't only offer Black or Charcoal (9002), though to be fair 9002 is the nearest I've got to a match for the seats but the wheels always look way lighter than the seats, mine certainly does and I think I've looked at every picture there is of QS interiors on Google & Autotrader, and then the handbrake seems to be somewhere in between the two :roll:
> 
> As you say a visit to a trimmer who has a bunch of swatches is the only way to go as photos are so misleading.
> 
> Keep up the good work, your car looks amazing.


Very useful info thanks! Though now a little concerned I'll never find a match.
As you've no doubt noticed the pile and direction the material is brushed affects the depth of colour which I think is more noticeable on the wheel.

I will certainly share any match I find.


----------



## Tahiti

12 or so years old, I suspect there would be a small element of fading to the original Alcantara colour too.

Before you know it, you will be retrimming it all to match!


----------



## DC240S

Tahiti said:


> 12 or so years old, I suspect there would be a small element of fading to the original Alcantara colour too.
> 
> Before you know it, you will be retrimming it all to match!


No fading evident - its lived a sheltered life with low miles


----------



## scottnybottny123

Don't know if it helps at all but I came across this http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/su ... 478/page-2 post #45


----------



## DC240S

scottnybottny123 said:


> Don't know if it helps at all but I came across this http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/su ... 478/page-2 post #45


That is helpful thanks! Charcoal Grey 6422 does look close here.

DSC03775 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
DSC03779 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr


----------



## imartyn

Just to add to the mix, 6422 on the Alcantara website is called Anthracite in their Marine Collection colour chart, which may or may not tie up with this fabric (5th down) on the Audi Tradition site..https://trshop.audi.de/konakart/SelectC ... =ALCANTARA


----------



## black9146

Came across this, any use ? https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-part-acce ... 67034129ss


----------



## DC240S

Its looking more like 6404 in the Alcantara catalogue (Marine). 9002 in most charts including the Alcantara Automotive looks to dark.

I've ordered some samples from a supplier to compare including 6422 and 6404.


----------



## Tahiti

Fair comment on the fading.

Have you ruled out 9002 Alcantara?


----------



## imartyn

Once you've decided on the colour you then have to find a trimmer who's prepared to buy in the material for a one off job, perhaps organise a QS wheel & gearknob multi buy, I'd definitely be interested


----------



## DTM893

DC240S said:


> Its looking more like 6404 in the Alcantara catalogue (Marine). 9002 in most charts including the Alcantara Automotive looks to dark.
> 
> I've ordered some samples from a supplier to compare including 6422 and 6404.


Did you sort your steering wheel issue ?


----------



## DC240S

I've received the Alcantara samples for shades 6422 and 6404 which unfortunately are not a match so the search continues.
I've made some enquires with Audi Tradition to see what they have.

I've been able to buy my original wheel back so less urgency.


----------



## DC240S

After a nice drive in the Sun yesterday - I fitted the refurbished tow bracket. Whilst underneath I had a good look at other components and have started to form plans for a big refurbishment/overhaul next year.

Before:










After (hardly noticeable but I know!)


----------



## DC240S

Chatting on FB with another QS owner about brochures.

Thought I'd add a picture of the specific QS and TT literature I have that would have been available for/supplied with the car when new in 2005/2006.

I have price lists, press information kit, News releases, Press images, QS brochures... I didn't get these when I bought the car but have collected them in my ownership.


----------



## DC240S

Not the best weather to choose to do it but today I finished correcting the paint on the bonnet. I removed most the swirls a a while ago before AITP, but had to leave the deeper light scratches due to lack of time.

I also tried out BiltHamber Clay (medium) - which I have to say is now the best clay Ive used.

Some photo's so you get the idea. The paint is now in a much happier place than when I first got the car.


----------



## Tahiti

That looks superb.


----------



## DC240S

So as I have said previously I'd like to get my steering wheel re-trimmed in the correct Alcantara, even though condition wise its probably one of the best - I'm a perfectionist!. Foolishly I sold it and purchased was was stated to be a NOS replacement, however the colour shade was far from a match. Thankfully I got a refund and was able to to buy back my original wheel.

But rather than have the original wheel re-trimmed I've decided to store it and source a second common leather TT wheel to re-trim (1KT, soul, 8N0124B).
I managed to get one this week for just £17 delivered and its condition is almost to good to use with nice matt soul black leather.

I still have an issue finding the correct shade of Alcantara material for the car - but hope to visit the upholsterer/trimmer to see if a match can be found from swatches. I've failed to get any detailed confirmation from Audi..


----------



## YELLOW_TT

If you can find the correct alcantara I'd be interested in getting my door pulls and kneee pads done


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> If you can find the correct alcantara I'd be interested in getting my door pulls and kneee pads done


I'll certainly share my findings.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you can find the correct alcantara I'd be interested in getting my door pulls and kneee pads done
> 
> 
> 
> I'll certainly share my findings.
Click to expand...

 [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## DC240S

OK - after correcting the paint on the bonnet today I tried to improve/correct the paint on the front bumper, which I haven't touched previously.

Started of first selecting some tunes to work with, then it was a rinse and wash with Fairy liquid.




























Next I tried out Iron.X snow soap. Diluted to the stated amount I washed the front using a Woo wheel wash mitt. I've used Iron.X before in spray and TBH I think thats more effective than this product as I couldn't see and reaction happening.


----------



## DC240S

After another rinse and dry I got busy with BiltHamber auto-clay lubed with quick detailer.



















Another rinse and dry and I masked up the work area.


----------



## DC240S

Under the lights the swirls and scratches were very visible and there was a lack of depth.



















A few passes with Menzerna IP2100 on a CG Hex-Logic Orange Pad sorted most and I followed this up with Menzerna Final Finish on a CG Hex-Logic White Pad.



















Results were definitely an improvement.


----------



## DC240S

I continued with the same process.

Before:










After:










Once the area was complete I wiped the area down with a citrus cleanser and applied CG EZ-glaze by hand and a couple of coats of Megs Carnauba wax in the interim as its so easy/quick to apply and TBH at the moment I haven't anything else.

I still have the lower part of the bumper below the plate to do tomorrow as I had to stop because of darkness and didn't want to upset the neighbours with noise!


----------



## Ian_W

That looks fantastic, assuming that is a rotary polisher? I've never had much look removing swirls and scratches with the same pad and polish combination on my DA.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Ian_W said:


> That looks fantastic, assuming that is a rotary polisher? I've never had much look removing swirls and scratches with the same pad and polish combination on my DA.
> 
> Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


It's a Porter Cable DA - had to have two goes with the IP as the paint is very hard.


----------



## gogs

Oh a bit of faith no more 
That's a blast from my youth 
I'll need to dig out my cd's for a listen

Sent via carrier pigeon


----------



## DC240S

Completed a subtle little mod today that I haven't seen on a mk1 TT to date - so I'll claim to be the first to do this.

Future plans with the BBS RT229 split rims and the style of the car already means it really fits in and looks very OE+
Matches the Porsche Oil and coolant caps. Filling up will now be just a little more enjoyable!

Before:










And After:


----------



## DC240S

Its a genuine Porsche accessory Aluminium fuel cap for a Cayman (and other models)


----------



## Hooligan

DC240S - I read your posts with great interest and I'm impressed with your dedication of improving your TT nothing less than impressive, that said I had to look twice at your Porsche fuel cap  come on at least cover the Porsche lettering with an Audi label :wink:

I've had to book a session of therapy - Porsche on a beloved TT whatever next :lol:


----------



## DC240S

Hooligan said:


> DC240S - I read your posts with great interest and I'm impressed with your dedication of improving your TT nothing less than impressive, that said I had to look twice at your Porsche fuel cap  come on at least cover the Porsche lettering with an Audi label :wink:
> 
> I've had to book a session of therapy - Porsche on a beloved TT whatever next :lol:


It's my nod to Freeman Thomas, I am sure he wouldn't object - better than saying "Petrol"


----------



## warrenstuart

Those BBS split rims you're going to fit are just the dogs taters and about the only ones i would swap my QS wheels for [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=sweetheart.gif]

Warren.


----------



## DC240S

warrenstuart said:


> Those BBS split rims you're going to fit are just the dogs taters and about the only ones i would swap my QS wheels for [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=sweetheart.gif]
> 
> Warren.


Definitely Warren! I've always liked the RSII but when I saw these I had to have them as they also have similarities with the QS wheel - best of both worlds. They were made by BBS exclusively for MS design Austria and appear to be very rare - so I consider myself lucky to have got them but also screwed if I ding one!


----------



## DC240S

Whilst sat in traffic I have a habit of inspecting the interior/trim and if I find a imperfection or marks I start obsessing about replacing it. The latest part to not pass close scrutiny was the drivers side inner door handle/opener (8N0837020A7PE) - TBF the slightest of marks but it annoyed the hell out of me.

Bagged a NOS replacement online and will fit ASAP - LOL


----------



## ProjectMick

Great work on this build - I think I'm going to cheat and have the interior metals either carbon skinned or anodised/powdercoated black.


----------



## Delta4

I fully understand the level of ocd/detail and wanting a super mint car but does that not stop you from enjoying the car ? it wont be long ( only jesting ) before you demand that your passenger removes their shoes and wears cotton gloves


----------



## DC240S

Delta4 said:


> I fully understand the level of ocd/detail and wanting a super mint car but does that not stop you from enjoying the car ? it wont be long ( only jesting ) before you demand that your passenger removes their shoes and wears cotton gloves


Great Idea! Passengers do get a hard time in my car.

Enjoying the car doesn't mean accepting carelessness - Within reason I see it as eliminating prior carelessness thats behind totally avoidable marks, wear or damage. I also really enjoy finding/replacing parts.


----------



## Pow3rL3ss

DC240S said:


> Its a genuine Porsche accessory Aluminium fuel cap for a Cayman (and other models)
> 
> fullsizeoutput_bb4 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> fullsizeoutput_bba by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> fullsizeoutput_bb8 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr


Just a quick have you got a part number, and where was it from? Is it attached to the plastic cord like the old one is?


----------



## desertstorm

It's a pity to hide something like that away. For £100 think I will keep the plastic one.
http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod12670 ... 981---991/


----------



## infidel.uk

never been a fan of using non tt parts/components on mine, its just not what i would chose to do.

Reminds me of a replica car.


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Small update -
> 
> I had begun to get scuttle window envy so bit the bullet and bought a new one - another small detail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels are next - should be dropping them off for a refurb tomorrow. Hope to match the silver and diamond cut rim edge.


may i ask please, when you changed the scuttle panel, did you change the rubber seal as well?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1- ... 3421095514

EDIT: i called Audi, they told me there is an original brand new replacement at 44 EUR (as i live in Greece it's EURO)
So do i buy the original or buy the below (found it elsewhere in the forum)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220946295540? ... 1497.l2649


----------



## DC240S

The QS never came with a boot load cover/parcel shelf (8N8867769C 18S) of other TT models, though all the fittings are there for one. This follows the models stripped out/reduced weight theme - but the shelf hardly weighs a lot!?

I wanted the option of having one to (mostly) cover the contents on holidays and at shows etc so found one on Shpock for a reasonable £35 that had all the brackets/tabs intact/unbroken and was near enough unmarked.

Advert image:










No way was this just going straight on the car! - these shelves have a notorious reputation for horrendous squeaking/creaking plastics when fitted. So before that I aim reduce/eradicate any potential noise by disassembling it and reassembling with some preventive measures added - It also needs a thorough clean!


----------



## DC240S

Continued with the Parcel Shelf and carefully separated the upper/lower frames with a trim tool slid along/around the seam.










The two frames then release from each other - revealing the net fastenings.










On the lower frame you can see plugs of hard bonding material - filling a trough on the lower frame in to which which a corresponding lug on the upper frame is pressed to hold the two together.










Over time these have become separated from the plastic and can easily be pulled away from the surface - pressing/moving them in situ also makes them squeak/creak so I suspect this is a significant contributor to the noise.
For reassembly I'm replacing this hard bond material with a permanently flexible, clear silicone sealant.



















Unlike other examples at resolving the squeaks/creaking using silicone sealant, I intend to be conservative and only apply it at these points and perhaps a bead adjacent to/along the outer seam. As the upper frame curves convexly to the flat faced lower - it appears theres only contact at these points.


----------



## DC240S

Flexing the lower frame revealed a LOT of squeaking/creaking around the the two square metal dowel bars inserted into recesses along the edges (presumably for strengthening). Once removed no squeaks! so I will look at applying a coating of either the silicone or vaseline around them before re-inserting.


----------



## Delta4

How about wrapping the bars in plastic or a felte type material ?


----------



## black9146

Think you should take my hard top shelf to bits and have a look for me ! The squeaks from it are ridiculous


----------



## DC240S

For re-assembly I've a squeezy tube of permanently flexible clear silicone sealant - much easier to wield than a large C20 cartridge gun. A test bead of silicone before has proved it works really well, remaining flexible but adhering to the plastics after prep with Isopropanol Alcohol.

I've also opted to order a role of felt anti-squeak tape for all other contact surfaces.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTI-SQUE...094068&hash=item43d09fd7e5:g:wbQAAOSws0JaYKL2


----------



## DC240S

Delta4 said:


> How about wrapping the bars in plastic or a felte type material ?


Considered this but the bars are a very tight fit.


----------



## imartyn

How about a couple of turns of plumbers PTFE tape.


----------



## DC240S

imartyn said:


> How about a couple of turns of plumbers PTFE tape.


Thats an interesting idea - [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Anti-squeak/anti-rattle felt tape arrived - I've applied a 10mm bead all the way round the outside edge. I'm not convinced any contact is made here but just to be sure.




























I've also run a beed of silicone sealant inside each recess for the metal bars, smeared them in a film of silicone and re-inserted them - ensuring all cavities are filled. Previous squeaks here eliminated


----------



## ProjectMick

Nicely done - my old car was full of the anti rattle tape ha ha ha!

Lots of care and attention goes into this - always enjoy reading it.


----------



## DC240S

ProjectMick said:


> Nicely done - my old car was full of the anti rattle tape ha ha ha!
> 
> Lots of care and attention goes into this - always enjoy reading it.


Thanks! Yes I think I'll be ordering a second roll of tape.

I've been thinking about what to do with the top side of the net thats slightly faded due to UV. I've already flipped the net so this is now underneath and the pristine side on top - however I'm considering painting/dying the faded side in situ with a fabric dye/paint such as this:

https://www.fabricspray.co.uk/shop/upho ... abric-dye/


----------



## DC240S

Final stage was to fit the upper frame. I applied a bead of sealant along all the edge clips/contact points on the upper frame and filled all the post holes on the lower frame - then firmly pressed/clipped the two together - done!.

Initially there was an obvious improvement - however as the sealant has dried its become almost completely silent. In hindsight I'd apply more sealant at each post hole (avoiding the net fabric) to ensure total coverage at each contact point, but theres definitely no need to go ever the top with the quantity of sealant.

For £35 - 40 and a little effort - Very happy!

Once dry I need to clean the frame and fabric net to remove some staining and grime - just about visible in the images here.


----------



## JayReed

Love the attention to detail mate. Could never justify spending some of audi's prices on the parts you've bought. Hats off to you 8)


----------



## DC240S

JayReed said:


> Love the attention to detail mate. Could never justify spending some of audi's prices on the parts you've bought. Hats off to you 8)


Thanks very much! I avoid Audi's prices as much as possible but sometimes surprisingly they are reasonable and don't justify buying used.


----------



## desertstorm

Love the attention to detail.Makes something thats good just a little better.
If you need to buy parts that can only be sourced from a dealer Mike (MJR901) is where I goto. He is the parts manager at Lister Seat in Worcester. Just contact him with the details of what you want and he will give you a price for the item delivered to you. I have used him several times and saved hundreds over the years.
https://www.facebook.com/mjr901parts/


----------



## DC240S

desertstorm said:


> Love the attention to detail.Makes something thats good just a little better.
> If you need to buy parts that can only be sourced from a dealer Mike (MJR901) is where I goto. He is the parts manager at Lister Seat in Worcester. Just contact him with the details of what you want and he will give you a price for the item delivered to you. I have used him several times and saved hundreds over the years.
> https://www.facebook.com/mjr901parts/


Appreciate that thanks!

Last night I gave the shelf a clean using a strongly diluted solution of BiltHamber surfex HD/water - saturating the fabric then lightly agitating with a detailing brush.










Wiping with a micro fibre lifted a disgusting amount of dirt/grime considering! - followed this with a light rinse with water, a pat dry before cleaning the frames with IPA. I created microfibre/grime art - an owl and dragon!










After the shelf had dried there was still evidence of staining in the mesh fabric so I repeated the the clean with surfex HD. After speeding up the drying process with a hairdryer no more stains visible.

For protection I've treated the Plastics with Gtechniq C6 Matte Dash and the mesh with Gtechniq I1 Smart Fabric. Hopefully the hydrophobic coating of the later will make the fabric easier to wipe clean, prevent staining and protect from spray when cleaning or rain.


----------



## DC240S

Shelf is is now ready to fit to the car. The hydrophobic qualitiy of Gtechniq I1 Smart Fabric is fantastic! - which should help preservation. Gtechniq C6 Matte Dash has also restored a lovely finish to the plastics too!

I did a water beading test - droplets role around like marbles and just blow off!



















Plastics looking good!


----------



## DC240S

A while back I was looking at an digital gauge to provide more information on the engines performance. I looked at Race Diagnostics and P3 gauges - but don't like the appearance of the Liquid guage and the P3 was way over budget - I'm not sure its something I'll use enough to warrant the outlay - plus I didn't really want to loose a vent.

I started looking at phone apps and have decided to try DashCommand (£10) and a Wifi OBD transmitter from iCar/Vgate (£17).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vgate-iCar-2 ... 2749.l2649

[


















As my phone is mounted to the right of the dash pod, above the vent - using DashCommand's display customising I created a look that works fairly well alongside the dash gauges (example gauges).


----------



## outdoor stevie

That looks good DC, can you post up a link to the items and keep us up to date once you get it up and working please.

Stevie


----------



## DC240S

Over the weekend I got round to adding a better protection coat to the correction work I did on the bonnet and front bumper a few weeks back.

I opted for Fusso Coat Dark synthetic sealant based on reviews - I couldn't wait to try it out and I have to say its bloody impressive stuff. After prep with Dodo Juice - Lime Prime Lite it went on really easy using a WoWo foam applicator and 15 min later buffed really easily too - no residue and a very smear free/even finish. The hydrophobic qualities are brilliant (to my experience) - a stream of water just disappeared.

Today the car experienced a windy shower and I grabbed a short film of the beads sitting on top and blowing about. The wind blew the paint dry and the bonnet looks spotless - it really seems to enhance the pearlescent Misano Red paint too.

I'm sure you'll all say there's better - but I'm fairly impressed and look forward to treating the rest of the car.











__
https://flic.kr/p/JWQBkx


----------



## silkman

Amazing work. Recently I re-fixed my parcel shelf but my work is ghetto compared to yours!


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> Amazing work. Recently I re-fixed my parcel shelf but my work is ghetto compared to yours!


Thanks! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Parcel shelf haters will love this!
Having put so much work into the shelf I've now sold it on!

I've been fortunate to acquire what I understand is the last new one available from Audi (they have been obsolete for a while).
Couldn't believe they had an £297 RRP from Audi (thankfully I didn't pay that though!). Whilst the other shelf was very good - this offered an opportunity for perfection.

Thanks to Mike at https://www.facebook.com/pg/mjr901parts ... e_internal for helping to locate this.


----------



## rusTTy_racer

Let's hope this is not like the steering wheel saga


----------



## DC240S

Having put so much work into the shelf I've now sold it on!

I've been fortunate to acquire what I understand is the last new one available from Audi (they have been obsolete for a while) Part No. 8N8867769C 18S soul (black)
Couldn't believe they had a £297 RRP from Audi (thankfully I didn't pay that though!). Whilst the other shelf was very good - this offered perfection.
A bit of a gamble as NOS/obsolete parts could have been knocking around for a while - but thankfully this time its payed off.

Thanks to Mike at https://www.facebook.com/pg/mjr901parts/about/?ref=page_internal for helping to locate this.

It arrived today from the Audi dealership in the sealed original packaging and is absolutely pristine! I love NOS parts - even if it is just a parcel shelf!
Manufactured in late 2004 so of the right period for my car.


----------



## NtG

is there still any rattle coming from (new) shelf?


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> is there still any rattle coming from (new) shelf?


None at all so far! If it develops at any point then I fix it as previously.


----------



## Ian_W

150k on my TT now and the shelf has never rattled so they don't all do it 

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Ian_W said:


> 150k on my TT now and the shelf has never rattled so they don't all do it
> 
> Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


Good to hear! If anything the cabin is touch quieter when fitted than without -


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> A while back I was looking at an digital gauge to provide more information on the engines performance. I looked at Race Diagnostics and P3 gauges - but don't like the appearance of the Liquid guage and the P3 was way over budget - I'm not sure its something I'll use enough to warrant the outlay - plus I didn't really want to loose a vent.
> 
> I started looking at phone apps and have decided to try DashCommand (£10) and a Wifi OBD transmitter from iCar/Vgate (£17).
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vgate-iCar-2 ... 2749.l2649
> 
> fullsizeoutput_c87 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> fullsizeoutput_c89 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> As my phone is mounted to the right of the dash pod, above the vent - using DashCommand's display customising I created a look that works fairly well alongside the dash gauges (example gauges).
> 
> 26907864_10156173628997764_1692339397476146005_n by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> IMG_5954 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr


is it safe to have it continuously plugged in?


----------



## DC240S

Yes - it has a auto power off


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> rusTTy_racer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Let's hope this is not like the steering wheel saga
> 
> 
> 
> :lol:
> 
> A bit of a gamble as NOS/obsolete parts could have been knocking around for a while - but thankfully this time its payed off.
> 
> It arrived today from the Audi dealership in the sealed original packaging and is absolutely pristine! I love NOS parts - even if it is just a parcel shelf! Manufactured in late 2004 so of the right period for my car.
> 
> DSC_0001 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> DSC_0006 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> DSC_0011 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> DSC_0010 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
Click to expand...

i feel that on mine there is a small rattle coming from clips..but not from the parcel shelf.
Car's clips seem loose rather than parcel shelf's ones
Any idea how i can solve it without having to open the shelf in halves..silicone etc..


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> i feel that on mine there is a small rattle coming from clips..but not from the parcel shelf.
> Car's clips seem loose rather than parcel shelf's ones
> Any idea how i can solve it without having to open the shelf in halves..silicone etc..
Click to expand...

No - you need to spilt it - I'd recommend unclipping the mounts from the shelf, smearing with silicone and reinserting.


----------



## RQuattro88

Extremely clean car. Keep up the good work!


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Love the attention to detail.Makes something thats good just a little better.
> If you need to buy parts that can only be sourced from a dealer Mike (MJR901) is where I goto. He is the parts manager at Lister Seat in Worcester. Just contact him with the details of what you want and he will give you a price for the item delivered to you. I have used him several times and saved hundreds over the years.
> https://www.facebook.com/mjr901parts/
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate that thanks!
> 
> Last night I gave the shelf a clean using a strongly diluted solution of BiltHamber surfex HD/water - saturating the fabric then lightly agitating with a detailing brush.
> 
> Shelf-brush by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> Wiping with a micro fibre lifted a disgusting amount of dirt/grime considering! - followed this with a light rinse with water, a pat dry before cleaning the frames with IPA. I created microfibre art - an owl and dragon!
> 
> Shelf-dirt by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> After the shelf had dried there was still evidence of staining in the mesh fabric so I repeated the the clean with surfex HD. After speeding up the drying process with a hairdryer no more stains visible.
> 
> For protection I've treated the Plastics with Gtechniq C6 Matte Dash and the mesh with Gtechniq I1 Smart Fabric. Hopefully the hydrophobic coating of the later will make it easier to wipe clean, prevent staining and protect from spray when cleaning or rain.
> 
> fullsizeoutput_c70 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Do you think it's safe to apply this C6 on Dashboard as well?


----------



## DC240S

As installed up front - this week I picked these rear HEL Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses for a reasonable £14 secondhand (£39.90 RRP), to replace the 12 year old original rubber hoses - likely the weakest link of the system currently. Though they came a little tarnished, a polish with Autosol Stainless Steel Polish had them looking new again.


----------



## DC240S

As a result of some people questioning the safety of using secondhand lines - even if braided and carrying a lifetime warranty, so I had some discussions with HEL and they offered to visually inspect/assess them if I sent them back. Having done this HEL's opinion/verdict was though there was "Nothing particularly wrong with them or unsafe" they "thought it right to replace them" and I have since received two new lines complete with spring clips which have the lifetime warranty applied.

Many thanks to HEL and Ben for doing this which just demonstrates the company's own high standards for quality and customer service.:thumb:


----------



## DC240S

A while back I had to remove the interior/map reading light unit - but rather than find out exactly how to remove it I had a go blind, which resulted in a braking some of the retaining clips on the reverse 

It doesn't really affect its function as the remaining clips do the job and the cost of a new unit is approx £100 - however I found a bargain priced NOS item online:thumb: which also has the benefit of brighter reflectors.





































For those who didn't know - the back edge is disengaged last when removing and first when refitting as the clips shown below wrap around the edge of the headlining.


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> A while back I had an intermittent fault with the interior/map reading light unit - but rather than find out exactly how to remove it I had a go blind, which resulted in a braking some of the retaining clips on the reverse
> 
> I've lived with it up till now as the remaining clips do the job and the cost of a new unit is approx £100 - however I found a bargain priced NOS item online:thumb: which also has the benefit of brighter reflectors.
> 
> Just curious, are NOS items OEM or non OEM made to pattern?


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Just curious, are NOS items OEM or non OEM made to pattern?


NOS - "New Original/Old Stock" meaning new original equipment, genuine Audi parts that remained in inventory (usually dealerships) for a use that never came - typically such slow-moving stock is then ultimately sold at a discount and can often can be obsolete by the time it is.

The interior lamp unit I've just fitted was manufactured in 2006. The parcel shelf I bought was stock at a London Audi dealership who actually never new they had it.


----------



## DC240S

Following on from fitting the NOS interior/reading light unit, today I replaced the standard incandescent bulbs with LED's which provide a much improved bright white light as opposed the the dim, warm orange of the originals.

I'd replaced all the other interior lighting with LED's previously - here's the links to the replacement LED's I used.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Festoon-...578326?hash=item20b4c22ed6:g:w3sAAOSwPhdU8GE6
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-AUDI...160561?hash=item2a3fed9271:g:p5cAAOxynRRSRZNr










Originals:










Comparisons:



















Completed:


----------



## miTTzee

Hi Ho DC240s - nice job on the lights - have the same myself, just waiting for a

dry day to get out to fit my lights and mess about with the car. Keep up the good work [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

miTTzee :wink:


----------



## DC240S

miTTzee said:


> Hi Ho DC240s - nice job on the lights - have the same myself, just waiting for a
> 
> dry day to get out to fit my lights and mess about with the car. Keep up the good work [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> miTTzee :wink:


Cheers miTTzee [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, are NOS items OEM or non OEM made to pattern?
> 
> 
> 
> NOS - "New Original/Old Stock" meaning new original equipment, genuine Audi parts that remained in inventory (usually dealerships) for a use that never came - typically such slow-moving stock is then ultimately sold at a discount and can often can be obsolete by the time it is.
> 
> The interior lamp unit I've just fitted was manufactured in 2006. The parcel shelf I bought was stock at a London Audi dealership who actually never new they had it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, also do you have a link to the interior light LED's, really like the look of those.
BrianB.


----------



## DC240S

Here's the links to the replacement LED's I used.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Festoon-Canb ... SwPhdU8GE6
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-AUDI-TT- ... xynRRSRZNr


----------



## DC240S

A small project today. The QS like the V6 model has the battery relocated to the NS boot floor with metal brackets/framework taking the battery's place in the engine bay to hold the associated fuses/electrics that still remain. The metal had typically suffered for having a fairly thin coverage of paint from the factory and had become scabby, so though mostly hidden except when looking closely It couldn't be left.

Trim/cover removed revealing associated electrics/fuses:










Underneath:



















After removing the metalwork I cleaned the surrounding area of the engine bay cleaned with Surfex HD and dressed for now with AG Vinyl & Rubber.


----------



## Ian_W

I love how clean this is . Misano must be one of the most rewarding colours to work with.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mann8754

I live in Northamptonshire and have Avis Silver QS can I leave it with you for a few weeks  as I am so impressed how meticulous you are with it. Very impressive


----------



## DC240S

Mann8754 said:


> I live in Northamptonshire and have Avis Silver QS can I leave it with you for a few weeks  as I am so impressed how meticulous you are with it. Very impressive


 :lol: I hope I've inspired you to get stuck in yourself! In 4 years only seen another locally once.


----------



## DC240S

Metal brackets/frame back from being blasted - I've found a quality local blaster which will be very useful for the future work.



















Now received two coats of BiltHamber Electrox which I'll give 3-4 days to cure before top coating.



















Nuts and bolts too - these will be top coated with silver enamel to replicate the original finish:


----------



## Pukmeister

Years ago whilst studying I went on a field trip to the Ford transit plant at Swaythling, Southampton. The bodyshells were dipped during assembly in a primer that looked identical to that bilt-hamber product, I would expect it is good stuff.

Your car looks better than new, one day I hope to bring mine to a similar condition (bit by bit.)


----------



## DC240S

Pukmeister said:


> Years ago whilst studying I went on a field trip to the Ford transit plant at Swaythling, Southampton. The bodyshells were dipped during assembly in a primer that looked identical to that bilt-hamber product, I would expect it is good stuff.
> 
> Your car looks better than new, one day I hope to bring mine to a similar condition (bit by bit.)


Thanks very much! Yes it is definitely a case of bit by bit but its very rewarding.

By all accounts Electrox is a great product - this is my first time using it but I doubt it will be my last.


----------



## DC240S

After 24+ hours the brackets/frame are ready to refit:


----------



## DC240S




----------



## Delta4

Nice work


----------



## silkman

DC240S said:


> Here's the links to the replacement LED's I used.
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Festoon-Canb ... SwPhdU8GE6
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-AUDI-TT- ... xynRRSRZNr


Great to know. I've also got Leds but they are too big (and too bright) and the "crystal" part of the domelight doesn't close completely


----------



## DC240S

This week I set about resolving an issue with the dual tone horns not sounding properly - probably due to lack of use.

Turns out their location is inaccessible without removal of the bumper so I decided to prepare an OEM+ modification with replacement high/low tone horns from the later VAG models - which I think sound much louder.

Removing the bumper requires removing the arch liners to access retaining bolts so a good opportunity for some cleaning, detailing and protection throughout.

Bumper off, cleaned and given a single stage machine polish using Menzerna Final Finish/CG HexLogic white pad, CG EZ Glaze by hand and topped off with Soft99 Fusso Wax Coat Dark. Quite interesting seeing the factory stickers and build markings behind - at least I know its the original.


----------



## DC240S

Also a clean behind the bumper using diluted Bilt Hamber Surfex HD diluted and protection/sealant applied by hand.


----------



## DC240S

Refurbished horn bracket with replacement 2015 Audi dual tone horns - fixed with OE matching stainless M8 bolts. The electrical connector plugs on the loom match the later horns - so plug straight in with no mods - location isn't symmetrical on the high an low tone connector plugs but no matter!


----------



## DC240S

Bumper enforcement bar then coated with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 for preservation and the horns located as originals.



















Ducting cleaned, protected and re installed:










Bumper relocated and secured using refurbished fastenings:


----------



## BrianB

Nice work, attention to detail is second to none. Really enjoy the updates, noticed the black grommets were missing in the front wing where the bumper attachment points pass through probably removed for the cleaning process.


----------



## The Gachet

This car is insane, like new... actually better than new ! 8) 
Kudos David and keep going mate !!! [smiley=dude.gif]


----------



## gogs

Did you remove the headlights to get the bumper off? Be very interested in hearing about how you did this if you left them in situ

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

gogs said:


> Did you remove the headlights to get the bumper off? Be very interested in hearing about how you did this if you left them in situ
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No need to remove the headlights -Haynes and Bentley manuals confirm this.

Bolts across the top.
2x 10 mm nuts - wing fronts to studs on bumper.
2x hex screws - wings to lower valance.
2x screws - under bumper/chin.
Disconnect the Headlamp washer tubing NS wing.
Remove bumper side grilles and the ducting pieces in front of the headlamp washer bodies.



The Gachet said:


> This car is insane, like new... actually better than new ! 8)
> Kudos David and keep going mate !!! [smiley=dude.gif]


Cheers Paul - Not really but I'll keep chipping away.



BrianB said:


> Nice work, attention to detail is second to none. Really enjoy the updates, noticed the black grommets were missing in the front wing where the bumper attachment points pass through probably removed for the cleaning process.


Good spot - they aren't black as far as I'm aware and are visible still attached to the threaded studs on the bumper. I crushed them over tightening (only req. 6NM) and need to order replacements.


----------



## BrianB

Good spot - they aren't black as far as I'm aware and are visible still attached to the threaded studs on the bumper. I crushed them over tightening (only req. 6NM) and need to order replacements.

PN 4B0807467A available from TPS.


----------



## gogs

I'm getting mixed up, you need to remove the bumper to remove the headlights ! Just me not thinking straight

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Had chance to give the engine bay light clean. Couple of pics of the Porsche coolant/oil caps and the replacement aftermarket alloy/stainless (hex) trim fastenings which have dimples to match the common OE style feature found elsewhere.


----------



## HOGG

link to the hex dimple fastenings please


----------



## DC240S

HOGG said:


> link to the hex dimple fastenings please


Sorry I don't have one - bought on eBay a couple of years ago.


----------



## gogs

DC240S said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> 
> link to the hex dimple fastenings please
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I don't have one - bought on eBay a couple of years ago.
Click to expand...

I'd like to have known this also, checked eBay and can't see any with the dimples ☹

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hooligan

They look like the kit supplied by "42 draft designs" for Audi......just type said in and hey presto [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## gogs

Found it at awesomegti, £52 for the V6 version and £82 for the 225 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HOGG

gogs said:


> Found it at awesomegti, £52 for the V6 version and £82 for the 225
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Link


----------



## gogs

https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-bran ... 8t-225bhp/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HOGG

gogs said:


> https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/42-draft-designs/42-draft-designs-engine-cover-hardware-kit-audi-tt-1-8t-225bhp/


Sod that...... cheaper on the bay!!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2705511407


----------



## gogs

Excellent find Hogg 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HOGG

Bought some already lol


----------



## gogs

Me also

Sorry for hijacking your thread DC

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

After yesterday's afternoon wash I went for a dusk blast.


----------



## gogs

She's a credit to you and your attention to detail 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tuscan12

gogs said:


> She's a credit to you and your attention to detail
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed, that's one well keep TT. She is indeed a credit to you.


----------



## Jam13

Very nice pictures, looks like a nice night for a spin


----------



## Spliffy

Gorgeous pictures of an awesome TT [smiley=mexicanwave.gif]

Nick


----------



## DC240S




----------



## DC240S

This week I started a small OEM+ mod to improve the aesthetics of the aftermarket Bluetooth/USB/Aux-in audi unit that I use for streaming music, calls and charging.

I've had the unit slotted in the document shelf under the steering wheel - but found I kept snagging the hanging USB lead whilst getting in and out - which did the socket no favours.










I've decided on a hidden re-install behind the lower dash using OE parts from the VAG range, specifically the Golf mk7 -install a USB/3.5mm Aux-in socket in the cubbyhole below the headlight switch. The socket uses a FAKRA connection for the USB so I've sourced a FAKRA to female USB adaptor/lead.

Golf mk7 fitment:


----------



## DC240S

The Golf mk7 3.5mm audio Aux-in requires a specific multi pin connector on the reverse so I decided I'd modify this to be a female to female 3.5mm jack and allow connection to the aftermarket audio input unit.









I removed the circuitry, and insides of the factory connector and inserted a cheap female to female jack plug with the case removed and secured using hot glue.


----------



## DC240S

Lower dash removed and Audio module secured out of the way:










FAKRA connecter ready to fit:










I had to give a lot of consideration to location - the purist in me wanted it completely out of sight but that would have made locating it difficult - particularly when using a USB stick (here's my AUDI key/USB):


----------



## DC240S

Identified a location that made the best use of space behind the dash, was accessible but was fairly hidden.

I had promised to never do any destructive mods that couldn't be reversed - but felt I could let this one go as it looks OEM - so using a template I cut out a "precise" hole for the socket.

Before:










After:


----------



## Delta4

Like that, smart mod


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Original 312mm single piston setup.
> 
> 3 DSC_0006 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> New 323mm 4 piston Brembo setup with Hel braided lines.
> 
> 3.2 DSC_0030 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> DSC_0007 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> DSC_0017 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> 5 DSC_0004 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr
> 
> 5.5 DSC_0028 by DC Creative Design, on Flickr


I see on later post you add 8mm H&R hubcentric spacers. But could these Brembo brakes fit without these spacers?
If yes, why did you put on spacers?

Looking to put on my TT 225 some Brembo GT Junior so i'm doing my research. Thank you.


----------



## Spliffy

That USB install idea is awesome, may have to copy that ! [smiley=dude.gif]

Nick


----------



## McPikie

Just read this from start to finish. Your attention to detail is amazing and one to aspire to.


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> I see on later post you add 8mm H&R hubcentric spacers. But could these Brembo brakes fit without these spacers?
> If yes, why did you put on spacers?
> 
> Looking to put on my TT 225 some Brembo GT Junior so i'm doing my research. Thank you.


The Quattro Sport alloys touch the calliper without a spacer - 8 mm was the thinest hub centric spacer available. I cant confirm requirement for other factory wheels.


----------



## DC240S

McPikie said:


> Just read this from start to finish. Your attention to detail is amazing and one to aspire to.





Spliffy said:


> That USB install idea is awesome, may have to copy that ! [smiley=dude.gif]
> 
> Nick


Thanks both!


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> napostolidis said:
> 
> 
> 
> I see on later post you add 8mm H&R hubcentric spacers. But could these Brembo brakes fit without these spacers?
> If yes, why did you put on spacers?
> 
> Looking to put on my TT 225 some Brembo GT Junior so i'm doing my research. Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> The Quattro Sport alloys touch the calliper without a spacer - 8 mm was the thinest hub centric spacer available. I cant confirm requirement for other factory wheels.
Click to expand...

Yes you can get the Brembo calipers to fit with out spacers but not using the standard size discs


----------



## Baalthazaar

YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> napostolidis said:
> 
> 
> 
> I see on later post you add 8mm H&R hubcentric spacers. But could these Brembo brakes fit without these spacers?
> If yes, why did you put on spacers?
> 
> Looking to put on my TT 225 some Brembo GT Junior so i'm doing my research. Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> The Quattro Sport alloys touch the calliper without a spacer - 8 mm was the thinest hub centric spacer available. I cant confirm requirement for other factory wheels.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes you can get the Brembo calipers to fit with out spacers but not using the standard size discs
Click to expand...

Definitely need more detail Yellow lol


----------



## DC240S

Baalthazaar said:


> Definitely need more detail Yellow lol


Everyone feel free to start another thread to discuss that.


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, Last 4 posts removed as they are spoiling the continuity of OPs topic & add no more info.
Hoggy.


----------



## DC240S

On Sunday the TTOC hosted their main annual show - evenTT18 - within the stunning grounds of Burghley House. Near a hundred TT of all generations turned up to celebrate 20 years since the introduction of the Mk1.

I made an at the gate decision to enter the Show & Shine and found myself in some very distinguished concours company so had resigned myself to enjoying the taking part. Absolutely chuffed to bits to be awarded 2nd place behind Chris Woods stunning V6!

And as if that wasn't enough I went on to be awarded "Car of the day" by those attending! A very proud moment and makes all the effort so worth it - the car lives outside in all weather - and Saturday was spent removing a covering of Sahara sand!


----------



## Jam13

Nice to see a mk1 taking car of the show, congrats and keep up all the hard work


----------



## Tuscan12

Well done, car looks stunning as always.


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, Excellent [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Can't go wrong with that colour combination. Wonderfull.
Hoggy.


----------



## Pukmeister

Simply stunning looking car and a credit to you.

Congratulations on winning the awards.


----------



## Mann8754

Congratulations and truly well deserved


----------



## BrianB

Congratulations and well deserved, always good to get some recognition for the time and effort spent.


----------



## DC240S

Thanks all for the comments!

MOT passed today at 38,257 miles - with no advisories.

Only covered 1,264 miles since the last! :roll:


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Another recent purchase was a Forge FMDV0008 - not a big mod I know but actually the first in my ownership.
> It has a REVO Stage 1 remap and Pipercross panel filter. I wasn't sure which spring to use so I've opted initially for the green.
> I'am interested to see if theres difference as others have found.


If you remember, did you notice any difference by installing this Forge Turbo Recirculation Valve?


----------



## DC240S

The replacement FAKRA to male USB lead also didn't work - still failing to provide power to any device connected to the USB dash socket.

So I found another solution - I bought an inexpensive 60cm male/female USB lead, cracked open the top/bottom halves of the dash socket female USB/FAKRA case, removed the components inside, trimmed the rubber around the female connector of the USB lead to fit tightly inside the OE case and clipped the case back together - holding it in place.

So now just a USB pass through - works perfect.

There are cheaper ready made options on eBay - but I wanted a genuine VAG socket/facia.
Golf Mk7 socket was £25, USB lead £1.50, 3.5mm female/female jack connector £1 and the audio lead I had.


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another recent purchase was a Forge FMDV0008 - not a big mod I know but actually the first in my ownership.
> It has a REVO Stage 1 remap and Pipercross panel filter. I wasn't sure which spring to use so I've opted initially for the green.
> I'am interested to see if theres difference as others have found.
> 
> 
> 
> If you remember, did you notice any difference by installing this Forge Turbo Recirculation Valve?
Click to expand...

TBH I can't say I remember a noticeable difference.


----------



## DC240S

Today I picked the car up from having body/paint repairs to damage on the lower sills, caused by incorrect jacking/lifting.

Very common on the Mk1 (8N) TT apparently.

Some before and afters (cars a little dirty as I asked for it not to be cleaned):

NS:




























NSF:


----------



## DC240S

NSR:





































OSR:





































OSF:


----------



## noidea

That looks much better, I know most people will never see it but I understand why you have had it done. I would too!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gogs

It's an area often neglected, well done 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## black9146

I have the same problem. Owned the car for over two years and both cills were ok when purchased. However last week when changing my wheels I noticed the N/S cill had a dent in it where it must have been jacked up incorrectly by one of the garages that I use. Hard to prove but will be done when the car is in for paint on the wings soon :?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Nice attention to detail if you don't mind me asking what sort of price are we talking ?


----------



## DC240S

Cheers all for the comments.



YELLOW_TT said:


> Nice attention to detail if you don't mind me asking what sort of price are we talking ?


The repairs were carried out as a courtesy/FOC by Leicester Audi - they accidentally damaged the sills seams when lifting during the MOT, but accepted responsibility and organised the repairs. The metalwork was reformed, primed, factory shut applied and top coated to match the original finish. Simon the resident painter really made an effort and was very conscientious.

Thanks also to Ben the Service Manager and Amy the Service Advisor - excellent customer care/service.

I understand most Audi dealership ramps are roll on and lift by rubber blocks/bricks placed under the strengthened seams found on the later models - not the Mk1 TT. They have positionable arm/plate lifts but not as many and mainly used for the Q7.

Theres some further PDR work required on the OSF sill to pull out a slight depression.


----------



## black9146

I was thinking when looking at your photos that it looked factory finish. I was wondering when I get my cill done if they would be able to achieve that rough finish of the factory ?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> Cheers all for the comments.
> 
> 
> 
> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice attention to detail if you don't mind me asking what sort of price are we talking ?
> 
> 
> 
> The repairs were carried out as a courtesy/FOC by Leicester Audi - they accidentally damaged the sills seams when lifting during the MOT, but accepted responsibility and organised the repairs. The metalwork was reformed, primed, factory shut applied and top coated to match the original finish. Simon the resident painter really made an effort and was very conscientious.
> 
> Thanks also to Ben the Service Manager and Amy the Service Advisor - excellent customer care/service.
> 
> I understand most Audi dealership ramps are roll on and lift by rubber blocks/bricks placed under the strengthened seams found on the later models - not the Mk1 TT. They have positionable arm/plate lifts but not as many and mainly used for the Q7.
> 
> Theres some further PDR work required on the OSF sill to pull out a slight depression.
Click to expand...

Looks like you had a bit of a win there mate


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, There should be no need to use the sill seams to lift a MK1 on a 4 point lift. 
Just poor couldn't care less workmanship for that to happen.  
Hoggy.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Hoggy said:


> Hi, There should be no need to use the sill seams to lift a MK1 on a 4 point lift.
> Just poor couldn't care less workmanship for that to happen.
> Hoggy.


On lowered TT is is not always possible to get to the correct lifting point and as we all know the front points are prob to fail even when used properly


----------



## Hoggy

YELLOW_TT said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, There should be no need to use the sill seams to lift a MK1 on a 4 point lift.
> Just poor couldn't care less workmanship for that to happen.
> Hoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> On lowered TT is is not always possible to get to the correct lifting point and as we all know the front points are prob to fail even when used properly
Click to expand...

Hi, If you can lift using the sill which are lower than anything else, then you can lift using other points & even then still no need to crush the sill seams. 
Hoggy.


----------



## DC240S

Some things just really niggle! This time it was the wiper blades.

I've been using a set of aftermarket Bosch blades - as good as they are the attachment to the arm looked like a compromise, didn't fit properly and was too high - lifting the arms out from the screen.

Ordered a set of genuine 21" Audi items (Part no. 8N2 955 425E) that are much better.










Some comparisons - Bosch then Audi


----------



## Jam13

I reacently had the same issue, bought Bosch blades but didn't like how cumbersome they looked so ended up going oem. Look much better imo


----------



## DC240S

Busy today with another small mod/improvement.

The original push on plastic cap/cover on top of the from suspension struts couldn't be tolerated any longer! They stand out for looking cheap and generic plus they easily crack and become loose - I've already replaced 2 sets.

Of the number of aftermarket caps available one in particular stands out for being alloy, screw on and also adopting the circular dimpled styling inherent on the Mk1 TT (also featured on my engine bay trim fastenings). It used to be manufactured/distributed by Forge - though now its CreationMotorsport (RRP £30).

The two finishes available (polished and black anodised/silver dimples) were both too shouty for my liking - I wanted to achieve a subtle as near OE/factory finish/appearance as possible. After a little research I picked up a secondhand set of the polished alloy caps a little cheaper, using the saving to purchase a can of black Plasti Dip - which promised the finish I was after, plus being non-permanent means I can remove it if I change my mind.

Ive not been disappointed - 5 coats 15 min apart and its looking very factory - I'll add some pics fitted.

I haven't seen this approach with the caps before so its something different.

Original plastic cap:










Secondhand alloy replacements:



















The Plastic Dip does look quite textured when applied but this smooths out as it dries.










Comparison - the Plasti Dip is a good match to the original cap:










One of the dash switches featuring the dimples I wanted to mirror.










Fitted pics tomorrow.


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, Very nice.
I have the Forge Coolant, oil & strut covers on mine & it's* Red* 
click to enlarge.








Hoggy.


----------



## DC240S

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Very nice.
> I have the Forge Coolant, oil & strut covers on mine & it's* Red*
> click to enlarge.
> 
> Hoggy.


Love it Hoggy! Any issues with the strut caps dropping and rubbing the paint?

DC


----------



## Hoggy

DC240S said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Very nice.
> I have the Forge Coolant, oil & strut covers on mine & it's* Red*
> click to enlarge.
> 
> Hoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> Love it Hoggy! Any issues with the strut caps dropping and rubbing the paint? DC
Click to expand...

Hi, Thanks..No probs, small clearance but nowhere near close enough to rub.
Hoggy.


----------



## newrayTT

I used to have the Creation Motorsport on mine and they did rub the top of the strut housing. I think it was just the normal movement of the suspension. To overcome this I fitted a couple of ball bearings to reduce the amount they screwed on and thereby giving greater clearance. Used to remove them if jacking the car up as this also caused them to interfere with the bodywork.


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> I used to have the Creation Motorsport on mine and they did rub the top of the strut housing. I think it was just the normal movement of the suspension. To overcome this I fitted a couple of ball bearings to reduce the amount they screwed on and thereby giving greater clearance. Used to remove them if jacking the car up as this also caused them to interfere with the bodywork.


Cheers for the warning - going insert a couple of tap washers to gain some clearance and then watch it very carefully. Makes sense to remove when lifting.


----------



## DC240S

Managed to fit the caps and grab a couple of pics - a very subtle change - but thats what I wanted.

Original plastic cap:










Replacement alloy (PlastiDipped):



















Before and after comparison:


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> I used to have the Creation Motorsport on mine and they did rub the top of the strut housing. I think it was just the normal movement of the suspension. To overcome this I fitted a couple of ball bearings to reduce the amount they screwed on and thereby giving greater clearance. Used to remove them if jacking the car up as this also caused them to interfere with the bodywork.


My solution was to trim a short length of fuel hose of the correct diameter to insert into the thread, which reduces the amount the cap can be screwed down and thus increases clearance. There's still both enough thread to secure the cap and clearance to the bonnet when shut.










Fuel hose inserted - I cut away slim strip along the length - reducing the diameter making it easier to insert/remove.


----------



## ryanmtt

Nice work mate, thanks for keeping me informed on facebook regarding the strut caps

Cheers

Ryan


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> Nice work mate, thanks for keeping me informed on facebook regarding the strut caps
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ryan


No problem Ryan - thanks for the comments.


----------



## silkman

What about the BBS wheels?


----------



## DC240S

The BBS are an ongoing project.

I'm trying to adapt to accept a screw in hex nut to retain the centre plate - rather than it be press fit.


----------



## BrianB

Been reading through your thread and seen that you replaced the rear splash plates, just wondered if you were able to do this without taking the hub off or is there enough clearance to remove the mounting bolts with the hub in place?


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Been reading through your thread and seen that you replaced the rear splash plates, just wondered if you were able to do this without taking the hub off or is there enough clearance to remove the mounting bolts with the hub in place?


My top tip! - In order to not have to take the hub off I simply modified the new plates by removing metal to create a U that slotted around the hub. I trimmed of the old one with snips and was able to undo the securing bolts.


----------



## BrianB

Thanks DC, that's good to know.
The space between the head of the bolt and the back of the hub doesn't look large enough to get the bolts out.


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Thanks DC, that's good to know.
> The space between the head of the bolt and the back of the hub doesn't look large enough to get the bolts out.


It is a bit tight between the ABS ring and plate - IIRC I backed/freed the nuts off as far as possible then cut them in half - removing the remaining thread with pliers.


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks DC, that's good to know.
> The space between the head of the bolt and the back of the hub doesn't look large enough to get the bolts out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a bit tight between the ABS ring and plate - IIRC I backed/freed the nuts off as far as possible then cut them in half - removing the remaining thread with pliers.
Click to expand...

My attachment bolts look seriously corroded, not sure they wouldn't shear during removal. Will have to think about that, what did you use as attachment bolts, shorter stainless?


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks DC, that's good to know.
> The space between the head of the bolt and the back of the hub doesn't look large enough to get the bolts out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a bit tight between the ABS ring and plate - IIRC I backed/freed the nuts off as far as possible then cut them in half - removing the remaining thread with pliers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My attachment bolts look seriously corroded, not sure they wouldn't shear during removal. Will have to think about that, what did you use as attachment bolts, shorter stainless?
Click to expand...

Yep - shorter, stainless - IIRC I chose domed hex head so that they could be tightened through the ABS ring fins.


----------



## DC240S

A weekend of driving edged the mileage towards another milestone - now 15k now in my ownership. No issues found with the new strut caps.










I've decided to move the appearance of the engine bay closer to original, by replacing the trim fastening screws with M6 Black A2 Stainless Steel replacements - matching the anodised washers.


----------



## DC240S

Replacement M6 black A2 stainless steel trim fastening screws now fitted - I much prefer them.


----------



## DC240S

A quick mod today.

The 3.5mm audio jack socket I installed wasn't being or ikely to be used so I decided to utilise the location to install a much more useful red led (ambient) light, to illuminate the cubby hole and make it easier to locate the USB port/contents at night.

Sourcing power from the lighter illumination wiring meant the brightness is controlled with the illumination dimmer switch. I soldered in an additional branch with a connector plug and created a loom to the light (routed with other existing wiring above the steering wheel). Actually my first proper attempt at soldering! - surprisingly satisfying.


----------



## DC240S

Something that will be familiar to VAG vehicle owners is the rubberised/soft touch coating around handles, facias and switches becoming scratched and scabby. A particularly susceptible area on the TT is the (x3) button switch panel in the centre console.

The original panel on my car only had some small nicks on the edge - but I thought I'd have a go at re-coating/painting to improve this having seen some decent results achieved by others. I opted to use Plasti-Kote Matt Super as it appeared to offer the best match to the original finish/appearance - however the final result was a high gloss not matt!? I've taken this up with Plasti-kote as it ruined the switch panel - but due to necessity I tried a refurbishment of a scruffy used replacement I purchased cheaply on eBay using the Plasti-Dip Matt Black I already had.

As with the original panel I stripped the unit down, removed the original coating with thinners, fine sanded some areas, cleaned with degreaser and dried before applying two wet coats of Plasti-Dip Matt Black as per instructions and final re-assembly.

The finish is almost identical to the original appearance and texture 

Before (eBay listing) and afters:


----------



## imartyn

DC240S said:


> Replacement M6 black A2 stainless steel trim fastening screws now fitted - I much prefer them.


Just keeps getting better [smiley=dude.gif]


----------



## DC240S




----------



## DC240S

imartyn said:


> Just keeps getting better [smiley=dude.gif]


Cheers!


----------



## Jam13

Good job on the 3 button switch, another well documented mod,

Nice


----------



## DC240S

Jam13 said:


> Good job on the 3 button switch, another well documented mod,
> 
> Nice


Bit more of a guide:

Remove each switch unit from underneath by disengaging the tabs and gently pulling.
Using a 2mm hex key inserted in the hole visible behind the push buttons - push up on the back of the button to disengage the retaining tabs and remove - being carful not to loose the small springs within.

Remove all the original/damaged rubberised coating from the panel with thinners and a cloth before thoroughly cleaning with degreaser/water (toothbrush is useful) and drying completely. If the plastic is scored some fine sanding correction may be required.

Mask up each of the buttons, above the retaining tabs and completely covering the face. Partially insert each masked button/spring in their correct location so that the tabs have depressed below the panel face but not engaged and that no masking tape is touching the panel - otherwise any new coating will be damaged.

Spray the panel with two wet coats of Plastic-Dip (to ensure a smooth finish) allowing the first to dry before applying the second (or use your preferred coating). When completely dry pinch off the masking tape on the buttons carefully without pulling the tabs up/out - before finally pushing the buttons all the way in.


----------



## Jam13

Thanks for that dave, after reading your how to guide I nipped out to the garage and checked the switches, they are not bad but not perfect so I will keep this in mind.

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

Cheers

I actually always intended to order a new one (Part no. V8N0 962 101 - approx. £66) which I'll be doing soon - but really happy with this refurbishment.

With 16k miles I'd expect yours to be pretty good! my original was about the same.

Close match!

Your 16k mile original:










My refurbished:


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


>


Excellent work again [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Back in June BEFORE I changed the discs, pads and backplates gave me the opportunity to further clean the arches (using Bilt Hamber surfex HD) and on the back remove a liner to reposition clean/check behind. Everything's looking pretty good! - There is some light corrosion in places on the suspension components which I will tackle next year. Bilt Hamber dynax-UC was strategically applied before replacing the arch liner.


great work, great progress, great car.

may i ask please, if you still running OEM suspensions, could you check the suspension height from the center wheel to arch? both front and rear please?


----------



## DC240S

After further communication with PlastiKote they have concluded the paint I used was from a known faulty batch - and by means of compensation they have offered to reimburse the costs of new replacement switch panel from Audi (Part no. 8n0962101B98) and supply two replacement cans of Matt Super.

Excellent customer service!


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> After further communication with Plasti-Kote they have concluded the paint I used was from a known faulty batch - and by means of compensation they have offered to reimburse the costs of new replacement switch panel from Audi (Part no. 8n0962101B98) and supply two replacement cans of Matt Super.
> 
> Excellent customer service!


That's fantastic service


----------



## silkman

Great work on the 3 button switch. I thought about plastidipping it myself.










After the USB mod, the boot button in mine popped up, only to discover that the tabs on it had broken and now stays up. It still works but the button wont stay in place and flies around the car. Since a replacement from Audi is pricey and don't fancy redoing the USB work on the new piece, would any of you gentlemen consider selling a spare my way? Only the boot switch is needed which can be easily unclipped from the housing (but Audi only sells it as a complete piece).


----------



## Pukmeister

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Audi-TT-8n-Boo ... 2284089944

Several others around £20.


----------



## DC240S

I'm selling the complete unit including switches/buttons shown here that I refurbished.

Ad in the for sale section.


----------



## DC240S

New switches arrived today from RPS (https://www.facebook.com/RPSPECIALISTS/). I wasn't unhappy with my refurbed unit but I wont lie - it is nice to get new genuine parts!


----------



## Jam13

Good result that was, How did you find out the plasticote paint was a faulty batch?


----------



## DC240S

Jam13 said:


> Good result that was, How did you find out the plasticote paint was a faulty batch?


When applied it dried gloss - so I contacted PlastiKote and they identified it from the batch/code on the base.


----------



## Jam13

DC240S said:


> Jam13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good result that was, How did you find out the plasticote paint was a faulty batch?
> 
> 
> 
> When applied it dried gloss - so I contacted PlastiKote and they identified it from the batch/code on the base.
Click to expand...

It's a shame you hadn't painted some more components before they offered to reimburse you with new oe parts 

Nevertheless great customer service

Cheers


----------



## silkman

@DC240s can't seem to find the ad for your old buttons in the marketplace. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> @DC240s can't seem to find the ad for your old buttons in the marketplace. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?


The ad is there - but its sold. Best bet is a complete secondhand unit.


----------



## DC240S

Had the opportunity today to finish installing the genuine new replacement lockset I purchased a couple of years ago! - finally resolving the issue of only having one key - but also adding a valet key and ID tag I never had previously - adding to the provenance.

Just need to get the immobiliser transponder coded on the second key.


----------



## mjohnston

DC240S said:


> A weekend of driving edged the mileage towards another milestone - now 15k now in my ownership. No issues found with the new strut caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've decided to move the appearance of the engine bay closer to original, by replacing the trim fastening screws with M6 Black A2 Stainless Steel replacements - matching the anodised washers.


Hi

Can i ask where you got your black fastening screws and washers from

Love the car by the way your attention to detail is something else

Cheers Mark


----------



## DC240S

mjohnston said:


> Hi
> 
> Can i ask where you got your black fastening screws and washers from
> 
> Love the car by the way your attention to detail is something else
> 
> Cheers Mark


Thanks! Here's a link to the supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M6-6mm-BLACK-A ... 2749.l2649


----------



## DC240S

I love the Mk1 TT's alloy interior/dashboard trim but these do mark/scratch really easy if touched by keys or rings etc. - particularly those around the door handles and window switch mountings - commonly these look really scruffy.










Those on my TT are blemish free except the drivers window switch mounting witch has picked up a few minor marks likely from keys. Whilst not bad its one of those things that niggled whenever scanning the interior so I've been searching for a replacement (Part no. 8N2867376) - these little details do add up to improve the overall impression.


























  

Finally my relentless scanning/searching of eBay for various NOS parts has payed off again - and I found a new replacement in Germany for £13 (€15) - less than the price I'd seen scruffy secondhand items sell for.  

















  

I think thats a lot cheaper than popping down Audi but TBH if it isn't I'm not to bothered - its certainly more fun hunting for bits!.


----------



## DC240S

I promise this thread will get more interesting.

Unfortunately I'm limited to small things until next year - when I hope to do some work/detailing on the mechanicals underneath.

This is the kind of restoration I've done previously:


----------



## Horlixx

DC240S said:


> I promise this thread will get more interesting.
> 
> Unfortunately I'm limited to small things until next year - when I hope to do some work/detailing on the mechanicals underneath.


Oh yeh brilliant.... start showing us all the underneath of your car - the interior/exterior already makes us all sick with envy, when you start posting pics of the underneath that just might send some of us over the edge!!!


----------



## mjohnston

Yeah if you ever get bored and fed up
Please give me a call !


----------



## Pukmeister

I'm always amazed as an Engineer how much effort, time and natural resources go into the design, tooling and construction of a car and all its components, only for them to be thrown away well before their use is finished. For the sake of a lick of paint and a few replacement bushes etc they can be kept like new.

I read an article once that claimed if a family car was maintained to the same standards as a jumbo jet, it could last for over a thousand years. Not sure if thats true or not, but its a shame to throw away good cars as discarded fashion items.

At least there is one Misano Red QS that should last for a very long time.


----------



## Spliffy

Pukmeister said:


> I'm always amazed as an Engineer how much effort, time and natural resources go into the design, tooling and construction of a car and all its components, only for them to be thrown away well before their use is finished. For the sake of a lick of paint and a few replacement bushes etc they can be kept like new.
> 
> I read an article once that claimed if a family car was maintained to the same standards as a jumbo jet, it could last for over a thousand years. Not sure if thats true or not, but its a shame to throw away good cars as discarded fashion items.
> 
> At least there is one Misano Red QS that should last for a very long time.


Much kinder to the planet too, of course the manufacturers want you to keep buying new , hence all the facelifts etc. I would much rather keep the ones we have got going and well maintained than buy a new car !
Nick


----------



## DC240S

Thanks all for the comments!

Hard to believe the TT Mk1 (8N) is 20 years old this year. I'm a huge fan of not letting old cars die - in addition to the TT I have a 20 year old SEAT Ibiza GTi I've owned for 13 years and driven for 100k+ miles. I've never been obsessed to keep replacing the cars I've owned - choose right and you shouldn't need too.

I always wanted a TT since launch back in the 90's and I consider myself very lucky to have found such a good low miler.

I've huge admiration for enthusiasts who's mission is to keep them going and less cosmetic - I've experienced this - as challenging as it becomes at times its hugely satisfying/rewarding as an enthusiast.


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> I promise this thread will get more interesting.
> 
> Unfortunately I'm limited to small things until next year - when I hope to do some work/detailing on the mechanicals underneath.
> 
> This is the kind of restoration I've done previously:


have you done this restoration on your QS or another car?
what exactly is this?


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> have you done this restoration on your QS or another car?
> what exactly is this?
Click to expand...

Refurbished rear trailing arm, hubs and back plates - front subframe, wishbones and anti roll bar from my 1999 SEAT Ibiza Gti

The kind of standard I'd like on the TT - all my own work.


----------



## DC240S

Couple of weeks ago I spent an enjoyable Sunday morning blatting down a wet A14/M1 to an event at Donington Park meeting up with a fellow QS owner.   Felt really good to stretch its legs but then spent the afternoon underneath cleaning!

QS no. 79/1065 (black) and 961/1065 (red/black).


----------



## Pukmeister

Where abouts in Northants are you ?

I was born in Northampton, raised in Wollaston (near Wellingborough) but left in 1982 to join the Navy then settled on the South coast. I only return occasionally to see family and the odd lifelong schoolmate.


----------



## DC240S

Pukmeister said:


> Where abouts in Northants are you ?


Desborough - seems there are few Mk1 locally


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> I love the Mk1 TT's brushed alloy interior/dashboard trim but these do mark/scratch really easy if touched by keys or rings etc. - particularly those around the door handles and window switch mountings - commonly these look really scruffy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those on my TT are blemish free except the drivers window switch mounting witch has picked up a few minor marks likely from keys. Whilst not bad its one of those things that niggled whenever scanning the interior so I've been searching for a replacement (Part no. 8N2867376) - these little details do add up to improve the overall impression.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally my relentless scanning/searching of eBay for various NOS parts has payed off again - and I found a new replacement in Germany for £13 (€15) - less than the price I'd seen scruffy secondhand items sell for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think thats a lot cheaper than popping down Audi but TBH if it isn't I'm not to bothered - its certainly more fun hunting for bits!.


Reminds me I picked up one of these a couple of years ago and still haven't got round to fitting it, also need the aluminium disk but Audi quoted something like £69 plus vat so put that on hold!!


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Reminds me I picked up one of these a couple of years ago and still haven't got round to fitting it, also need the aluminium disk but Audi quoted something like £69 plus vat so put that on hold!!


I understand Audi still have some stock of the RHD switch mounting for approx. £35 though it is listed as discontinued. Yes those discs are so easily chipped/marked.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Reminds me I picked up one of these a couple of years ago and still haven't got round to fitting it, also need the aluminium disk but Audi quoted something like £69 plus vat so put that on hold!!
> 
> 
> 
> I understand Audi still have some stock of these for approx. £35 though it is listed as discontinued. Yes those discs are so easily chipped/marked.
Click to expand...

£35  I paid about £12 for one from TPS about 10 years ago


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> £35  I paid about £12 for one from TPS about 10 years ago


Thats 10 years ago when they were plentiful - but now there're discontinued - difficult to find another source. The interior door levers (8N0837020A 7PE) are £86.40 - ouch!


----------



## TTSingh

Nice quattro sport!


----------



## DC240S

So today I completed the replacement of the drivers side window toggle switch alloy trim.

It requires the removal of the door card so I was able to give everything a deep clean and remove any dust. All plastics were treated with Gtechniq C6 Matte Dash and with the Leather(ish) material on the door I cleaned the stitching with a toothbrush and wiped it over with Dr Leather wipes.

Another little area improved!

Before:










Afters:


----------



## platinumdub-18t

Hey - Great restoration on the QS. I am a canadian TT owner, also going through a major overhaul of my TT225 into a 3.2 twin turbo 6-speed. I am retrofitting the QS / 3.2 rear battery cables, and was wondering if you could take a pic of the alternator cable and battery feed cable at the starter end so i can see how they are connected up. Would really appreciate it if you can. I did see your pics on the front box restoration for the fuse panel, but I couldn't get a clear view of the cable end terminations.

thanks a million in advance!


----------



## DC240S

Yesterday I had to resolve an issue causing the ESP warning light to be on - I swear I bloody hate that light! Seems you can always rely on it to come on just when you think your fault free.

The fault code produced indicating a steering angle sensor issue










I bit of investigation and I deduced its as a result of rotating the slip ring whilst the wheel was off meaning it wasn't centred as required and the ribbon inside unevenly wound.










Theres 4 full rotations of the slip ring possible from lock to lock - so I centralised it at two rotations which also produced a yellow dot visible in the clear window top right as confirmation.










Once the wheel was back on and battery reconnected the warning light had gone - a few turns to each full lock and still no light so hopefully thats sorted without the need for VCDS to reset!


----------



## Holt2498

Hi DC240S from one of your posts you had seen the Red Misano AUDI TT QS launch car, I saw a road report recently which showed the same car with a staggeringly low mileage after doing an MOT search of circa 7000 miles, anyway back to the subject, I'm not 100% sure but this car seems to have a full ALLOY GEAR KNOBand not the ALCANTARA one for the QS, can you confirm ? and also if this is the case do you know why ?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Holt2498 said:


> Hi DC240S from one of your posts you had seen the Red Misano AUDI TT QS launch car, I saw a road report recently which showed the same car with a staggeringly low mileage after doing an MOT search of circa 7000 miles, anyway back to the subject, I'm not 100% sure but this car seems to have a full ALLOY GEAR KNOBand not the ALCANTARA one for the QS, can you confirm ? and also if this is the case do you know why ?


I remember seeing a good few new qS TTs at the dealers with incorrect parts fitted inc full alloy gear knobs and V6 rear valances think it was just caused by mixups at the factory


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> Hi DC240S from one of your posts you had seen the Red Misano AUDI TT QS launch car, I saw a road report recently which showed the same car with a staggeringly low mileage after doing an MOT search of circa 7000 miles, anyway back to the subject, I'm not 100% sure but this car seems to have a full ALLOY GEAR KNOBand not the ALCANTARA one for the QS, can you confirm ? and also if this is the case do you know why ?


Final assembly for the 1165 quattro Sports was exclusively at the quattro GmbH factory in Germany, where Audi RS models were built - not Gyor, Hungary like all other Mk1 - making it the only fully German Mk1.

Personally I think its unlikely to the result of an incompetent mix up during assembly - more likely that specific QS parts were not available during assembly and substituted at some point before sale - or replaced as personal preference.

I know mine was fitted with Phantom Black Reacaro's from new - as one of the last Misano Red QS I was told this was as a result of no Misano Red painted seats being available -


----------



## DC240S

Another fix tonight.

A few weeks ago I was suffering sporadic beeping coming from the boot which apparently is an indicator/symptom of the internal rechargeable batteries of the alarm siren unit failing - this is located inside the NSR quarter behind the access panel in the boot.










You can remove and do a DIY replacement of the batteries cheaply - but I was fortunate to get a new unit (part no. 8L0951605A) for £13 !! - £70 list.



















To access and remove the siren unit - which is secured with a 13mm bolt on the reverse its best to remove the light. Hello spiders! You really don't want to drop the nut into the arch.














































Evicted the spiders with diluted Bilt-hamber Surfex HD and Megs shampoo topped when dry with Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.



















New unit positioned and plugged in but before refitting the lamp fitted a strip of edge trim to protect the loom from a sharp edge.





































After buttoning everything down I successfully tested the siren/alarm by rolling down a window, locking the car and waving my arm inside. No more beeping inside either.

A job on the to do list - machine polish the rear light lenses to remove swirls.


----------



## ryanmtt

Where did you manage to find a new alarm siren for £13 

Great attention to detail as always


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> Where did you manage to find a new alarm siren for £13
> 
> Great attention to detail as always


Thanks

I was lucky on eBay  (not always the case though)


----------



## Martin05tt

Hi I have just gone through this thread and I love your attention to detail. The car looks fantastic, keep it up. M


----------



## DC240S

Cheers Martin!

Hopefully more stuff soon


----------



## DC240S

Whoops


----------



## DC240S

Ive finally been able to start an OEM+ modification I'd been planning for some time - which resolves the annoying lack of symmetry in the rear light clusters (separate single fog/reverse lights), and in adding a second reverse light - provides more light when reversing.

It requires sourcing a LHD (Right) reverse light cluster, which arrived from Germany this week (part no. 8N0945096). As a used part the condition is excellent! - just some light swirling to remove once fitted.

The process is basically as follows:

Replace the existing RHD (Right) fog light cluster with a LHD (Right) reverse light cluster
Enable the second inner brake lights on each cluster - single outer for the UK market due to proximity to fog light.
Modify the power feeds and using a switching relay feed power to the LHD (Right) reverse light from the RHD (Left) reverse light and convert the inner of the two brake lights on each cluster to become fogs.

I followed the guide provided by WAK (Cheers WAK!) but with my own preference/method for wiring connectors/fixings to create an OE appearance.

https://www.wak-tt.com/mods/symmetry/symmetry.htm

LHD (Right) reverse light cluster:



















Locations for new connections/feeds:










Connectors/wiring secured by drilling out existing plastic rivets and using stainless steel rivets and circular crimp connectors:





































Switching relay location/connections and loom/connector to opposite cluster:



















Modifications to the existing RHD (Left) reverse light cluster:



















Ready for installation once I have created/routed a bridging loom between the clusters:


----------



## Holt2498

Great write up, I was only looking into doing this last week and was searching on German eBay for a used light.

How much did you end up paying ?

Ps : it looks like you've duplicated the post twice.


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> Great write up, I was only looking into doing this last week and was searching on German eBay for a used light.
> 
> How much did you end up paying ?
> 
> Ps : it looks like you've duplicated the post twice.


The cluster cost me about £70 IIRC posted - benefitting from 10% eBay discount code.


----------



## PlasticMac

DC240S said:


> Modify the power feeds and using a switching relay feed power to the LHD (Right) reverse light from the RHD (Left) reverse light and convert the inner of the two brake lights on each cluster to become fogs. Connectors/wiring secured by drilling out existing plastic rivets and using stainless steel rivets and circular crimp connectors:


Do you end up with the two stop lamps each side, red fogs each side and a reversing lamp each side? 
I like the high quality work, especially the as pop rivets! I just used the soldering iron on the plastic pips, when I did the twin stop lamp mod. Rivets are much more professional. Mac.


----------



## DC240S

PlasticMac said:


> Do you end up with the two stop lamps each side, red fogs each side and a reversing lamp each side?
> I like the high quality work, especially the as pop rivets! I just used the soldering iron on the plastic pips, when I did the twin stop lamp mod. Rivets are much more professional. Mac.


Each cluster has 2x tail lights, 2x brake lights, 1x reverse light, 1x foglight (the enabled inner brake light becoming the fog light).

Using rivets wasn't my idea - though its definitely the best solution. The exact location, wiring length and connectors used was to my preference though.


----------



## Bartsimpsonhead

Good work sir! I now use rivets on Euro light conversions myself as it's much neater than soldering.

Where do you get the plugs for the relay and the loom connectors from? That looks much neater than connecting the wires individually using male/female spade connectors.


----------



## DC240S

Bartsimpsonhead said:


> Good work sir! I now use rivets on Euro light conversions myself as it's much neater than soldering.
> 
> Where do you get the plugs for the relay and the loom connectors from? That looks much neater than connecting the wires individually using male/female spade connectors.


Cheers!

Yeah the spade connector blocks add a little simplicity and means I don't have to worry about wire identification - the plug only fitting one way, I can use black insulated wire throughout and the relay can be replaced easily if required.

The relay came with the multi connector and the other two are inexpensive 2 way 6.3mm connectors sourced on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Automotive ... 2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-6-8-Wa ... 2749.l2649


----------



## Bartsimpsonhead

Cool, thanks for the links - I have a few Euro lights to convert so these will be handy and neater to use than separate spade connectors.


----------



## ryanmtt

Nice attention to detail as always 8)


----------



## Jam13

Great mod, I've seen this done before but couldn't work out how it was done. It certainly improves the look of the tail end,

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

Quick image of the light installed.

Still need to remove the swirls in the LHD (Right) cluster which will add more clarity/pop. I've ordered some Maguiars D300 Compound and DMC3 MF pads for the job - I suspect some refining with sandpaper will be required too. Also need to remove a dead fly from behind the lens!

The reverse lights do match - the daylight playing tricks here.
Ill add some illuminated images once I've installed the 500 Lumen LED reverse bulbs.










Bridging loom between the clusters which was secured along/to the existing loom behind the rear panel trim:


----------



## Holt2498

Nice, so subtle, but looks like it should do and I'm sure it will play with peoples minds when behind you thinking "hmm, somethings different on this Mk1" apart from the obvious out of the box condition of course.

Will be doing this mod definitely just got to land a Euro light on German eBay, may be picking your brains when sourced.


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> Nice, so subtle, but looks like it should do and I'm sure it will play with peoples minds when behind you thinking "hmm, somethings different on this Mk1"


Cheers!

Been wanting to do this for some time - there will be just as much light in reverse as going forward!

Any Q's just drop me a message - though WAK's guide is comprehensive.


----------



## ismar33

nice :mrgreen:


----------



## DC240S

Today I picked up and installed the Halfords 500 Lumen LED 382/P21W reverse bulbs.

Fairly impressive output - much whiter than the images show.




























Reverse (LED):










Side lights:










Brake lights:










Side lights/fogs:










Also arriving in the post today - products to remove the swirls in the rear cluster/s - if its not too cold, a job for the weekend.


----------



## ryanmtt

I've said it before, I will say it again the attention to detail is spot on mate 8)


----------



## DC240S

Today I found some time to de-swirl both rear light clusters - the LHD (Right) cluster I purchased from Germany was particularly bad! -

Both clusters were masked off and cleaned with panel prep before being wet sanded using P1500, P2000 and P2500 sandpaper - removing all scratches/swirls and leaving a nice even/mat finish.

Then using a PC DA with a Meguiar's DMC3 MF 3" pad I applied Meguiar's D300 compound. This combo was impressive - easily cutting through the sanding haze and leaving a more than acceptable finish/clarity - I could easily have left it there.
Having never wet sanded before this gives me some confidence to move onto some areas of paint that would benefit this.

As a final correction stage I applied Menzerna Final Finish on a white CG Hex-Logic pad. For protection I've applied some Fusso sealant till I have something else.

Some before and afters we all like:

RHD (Left) before:



















RHD (Left) during sanding:



















RHD (Left) after Meguiar's D300:




























RHD (Left) after Menzerna Final Finish:










LHD (Right) before:




























LHD (Right) during sanding:










LHD (Right) after Meguiar's D300/Menzerna Final Finish:























































Both illuminated:


----------



## gerontius

That is very neat work DC - planning to do it on mine too, if I can get a cluster.


----------



## DC240S

gerontius said:


> That is very neat work DC - planning to do it on mine too, if I can get a cluster.


Thanks!

I think its a great OEM+ mod - I definitely recommend it. Tip for searching ebay though obvious really - use German
"Audi TT 8N Rücklicht 8N0945096" etc.


----------



## McPikie

Ooooofff, like glass. Lovely finish.

I really need to get my car properly detailed and stop taking it to the Lithuanians to wash.


----------



## ryanmtt

That swirl removal on the lights looks fantastic DC, just a quick question do you know if the euro spec bulb holder is the same as the uk one or did you use the uk spec bulb holder in the eu light

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> That swirl removal on the lights looks fantastic DC, just a quick question do you know if the euro spec bulb holder is the same as the uk one or did you use the uk spec bulb holder in the eu light
> 
> Cheers


Cheers!

Honestly I have no idea! - I just used the holder that came with the LHD (right) reverse cluster.


----------



## ryanmtt

DC240S said:


> ryanmtt said:
> 
> 
> 
> That swirl removal on the lights looks fantastic DC, just a quick question do you know if the euro spec bulb holder is the same as the uk one or did you use the uk spec bulb holder in the eu light
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Honestly I have no idea! - I just used the holder that came with the LHD (right) reverse cluster.
Click to expand...

Awesome I have a uk left and a right eu bulb holders so will crack on with this mod as I just have the double brake light mod and this is 10x better 8)


----------



## FASt

DC240S said:


> Busy today with another small mod/improvement.
> 
> The original push on plastic cap/cover on top of the from suspension struts couldn't be tolerated any longer! They stand out for looking cheap and generic plus they easily crack and become loose - I've already replaced 2 sets.
> 
> Of the number of aftermarket caps available one in particular stands out for being alloy, screw on and also adopting the circular dimpled styling inherent on the Mk1 TT (also featured on my engine bay trim fastenings). It used to be manufactured/distributed by Forge - though now its CreationMotorsport (RRP £30).
> 
> The two finishes available (polished and black anodised/silver dimples) were both too shouty for my liking - I wanted to achieve a subtle as near OE/factory finish/appearance as possible. After a little research I picked up a secondhand set of the polished alloy caps a little cheaper, using the saving to purchase a can of black Plasti Dip - which promised the finish I was after, plus being non-permanent means I can remove it if I change my mind.
> 
> Ive not been disappointed - 5 coats 15 min apart and its looking very factory - I'll add some pics fitted.
> 
> I haven't seen this approach with the caps before so its something different.
> 
> Original plastic cap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondhand alloy replacements:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Plastic Dip does look quite textured when applied but this smooths out as it dries.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Comparison - the Plasti Dip is a good match to the original cap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the dash switches featuring the dimples I wanted to mirror.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitted pics tomorrow.


Thank you for the inspiration


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> Thank you for the inspiration


The best strut caps for me.

Update on the LHD right reverse cluster.

When I last installed the light I had real difficulty getting a good even seal/fit - ending up with a noticeably bigger gap underneath compared to the left side and either a crushed or loose outer seal. Today I removed it and fitted the better outer seal from my original RHD cluster also rotating the adjuster screws to match the original RHD cluster - much easier installation and now a perfect/matching fit. :thumb:

I hadn't noticed these are marked with white paint by the factory at the correct position.










I replaced all the retaining/star washers with these. Pushed on with a 6 mm socket:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starlock-Was ... 2749.l2649

Original on left:


----------



## DC240S

This week the latest bit of minty newness arrived courtesy of RPS
https://www.facebook.com/RPSPECIALISTS/

A new rear valance (part no. 8N0807421F Z9Y) - as with the roof, mirrors and front grilles on the Quattro Sport factory painted in Phantom Black Pearl.

The paint is flawless! - I've applied a coat of Fusso sealant for some protection (including inside each and every hexagon! which took an hour!)



















Pearl fleck:


----------



## DC240S

Exiting developments this week! (well for me it is!)

A couple of years ago I picked up a NEW set of rare BBS RT 229 2 piece split rims (8.5J x 18/5x100 PCD) made by BBS for and distributed by renowned VAG styling partner MS Design (ms-design.com), Austria.

The intention was to fit these to preserve the rare (recently refurbished/diamond cut) original QS Ronal's (ironically the RT 229's are probably rarer!).

I liked the similarities in appearance the straight spoked design has with the original spoked Ronal's. The purist in me was a little conflicted in fitting non original rims however I feel these work.

I appreciate not everyone will like these! I'm hoping I will.

I'm not sure why but the centre plate was of the push fit/sprung variety with a large unattractive "MS" logo badge - which I really disliked. Looking at the centre plate the raised circle appeared to made for a BBS hex nut having the same 100mmØ diameter. Unfortunately the centre bore is unthreaded and not compatible with any BBS hex nut mounting hardware.

I considered mounting a BBS nut (part no. 09.24.383) to the press fit plate but further research and asking questions lead me to MG-Line in Germany who manufacture/distribute very high quality reproduction BBS CNC'd Hex Nuts/Centrelock kits - including either large or small thread adaptors for the rim centre bore.

https://www.bbscenterlock.com/?fbclid=IwAR01rgnYseOzH_pkgt8mNpfRb4kPb7Z9mctFfnKpR5RG7PZwlu6l2aTkb4E

I was able to order a kit that included 4x 100mm diameter, small threaded, half height, CNC finish hex nut (BBS RM rim) that accept 70mm diameter 3 tab BBS centre caps and also 4x small threaded adaptors for the rim.

The quality of the MG-Lines hex nuts is superb! - I definitely recommend you check out their products.

Using a dremmel I removed the centre of the plates so they now fit perfectly to the hex nut.
































































Thread adaptor inserted:










Adapted/trimmed centre plate positioned:










Hex nut installed:










The centre plates as originally supplied:


----------



## DC240S

Yesterday the final component for the BBS arrived- so I can now arrange fitting.

11mmØ steel valve stems - which I prefer to std robber valves.



















These can be tightened by a 13mm socket within the space available.


----------



## Jam13

Very nice, I think they will look stunning on the car 

I'm sure your mod to secure the centre caps will also put your mind at ease knowing that they are not going to fly off at high speeds 

Cheers


----------



## FASt

Wauw ... I like the perfection


----------



## DC240S

Last week I'd planned to transfer my tyres over to the BBS - however I had counted on my tyres being ok which the two rears most definitely weren't!



















Though the two fronts are half life - I've taken advantage of an online promo discount for x4 Michelin Pilot Sport 4's (235/40 R18 95W) with a further 10% discount for Monday fitting (+FREE Fire HD tablet!), leaving me with a weeks wait and the TT an axle stands.

I've used the tyre delay as an opportunity to send my rear calipers/carriers away to be professionally painted Brembo red to match the front 4 pots - there being a 7-11 day turnaround for this.

In the meantime I've tackled a couple of jobs on the "to do" list - being the corroded rear xenon headlight range sensor bracket/arm and exhaust hanger.

I never took before pics but it was not to dissimilar to this:










Progression:



























































































Exhaust hanger mount:


----------



## BrianB

Excellent work once again DC [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## David C

DC240S said:


> Last week I'd planned to transfer my tyres over to the BBS - however I had counted on my tyres being ok which the two rears most definitely weren't!


What tyres were they?
and what was the date on them?


----------



## DC240S

David C said:


> What tyres were they?
> and what was the date on them?


Michelin Pilot Sport 3 - wk42 2012

Serious lesson learnt to watch these things! - Passed the MOT at Audi 9 months and 1,500 miles ago.

In ordering new tyres I was conscious to order a current tyre and not NOS - the Pilot Sport 4's all being manufactured wk5 2019.


----------



## NtG

maybe you contact this guy to swap Recaros...?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/audi-tt-quat ... SwmE5cRxAQ


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> maybe you contact this guy to swap Recaros...?
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/audi-tt-quat ... SwmE5cRxAQ


Why? These are the Seats quattro GmbH fitted - I know at least one other later Misano Red QS to also have Phantom Black Pole Positions. As I've mentioned previously the story is that during late production no red seats were available - I'd like to keep that history/story.


----------



## NtG

sure, either black or red poles match well, thought maybe you would want to "complete" the look 

edit: seeing your QS rims on sale, looking forward to seeing the new rims fitted


----------



## DC240S

Looking for things to do whilst I wait for my rear calipers I took some time this weekend to remove the plastic rear arch liners for a thorough clean - using Bilt Hamber Surfex HD, Tardis and a Megs shampoo/MF mitt wash down.

Really happy with how well it looks under there after 13 years! I will be applying Bilt Hamber Dynax UC before the liners go back on. I've two new ones on order from Audi to improve the appearance.









































































I've also repainted the discs.


----------



## jhoneyman

Looking fab.
Preventative measures at its best here.


----------



## paulw12

My god, where has all the rust gone?
Mine looks like it has spent all it's life in the sea compared to yours :lol:


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## Jam13

Looks V clean under there, BH dynax UC is great stuff, used it on mine, much better than messing about with wax oil and as it's clear you wouldn't know it's there.

Cheers


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## DC240S

Cheers everyone for the comments!



paulw12 said:


> My god, where has all the rust gone?
> Mine looks like it has spent all it's life in the sea compared to yours :lol:


I consider myself lucky to have a low miler as a good starting point - I do work hard to keep on top of it though.



Jam13 said:


> BH dynax UC is great stuff, used it on mine, much better than messing about with wax oil and as it's clear you wouldn't know it's there.


Agree - huge fan of BH products

Spent a bit of time tonight cleaning/prepping the new arch liners for fitting - will add some freshness!



















I found the edge that sits behind the arch lip a little sharp/rough - so to help prevent harm to the paint (and me!) I sanded it smooth.


----------



## DC240S

Last week I finally received my rear calipers back from being re-painted to match the darker red of the SEAT Leon Cupra R (Typ 1M; 98-05) Brembo's up front.

I've fitted new genuine Audi piston seals/rubber boots and also replaced the guide pins/rubbers with new TRW OEM parts. Levers, springs, mounting bolts, cable mounts I refurbished.


----------



## auspicious_character

That's being super picky!

You'd do well with a nice MK2 golf.


----------



## DC240S

Yesterday I was able to refit the re-painted rear calipers (taking a lot more care than when I removed them!) - they look really smart.

They do however highlight some of the scruffy suspension components nearby - I'm trying really hard not to turn a caliper repaint into a full on suspension/running gear strip down and refurb!

The bank holiday providing the time and having the products already - has lead to a refurb of the visible rear shocks though.

I nearly purchased new ones for what they cost - but these are low mileage and the bushes are good - had no issues.

Once remove they were thoroughly cleaned, sanded/dremmeled before being coated de-rust Gel and wrapped in film overnight - will coat with zinc rich primer tomorrow.


----------



## DC240S

24 hrs later and the BH Deox Gel has done its job - leaving a gloopy brown sludge when the films removed - a rinse reveals no rust.



















Another light sanding and degrease then into BH Electrox


----------



## DC240S

A little more progress the last couple of days.

I've top coated the rear shocks with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black and they are now ready to go back on - ordered new genuine mounting bolts too.

Some before and afters:














































I'm now refurbishing the front suspension too - update soon.

Some original labels/stickers will have to be sacrificed and I've noticed some others that were looking tatty, so I've recreated them to be reprinted.


----------



## HOGG

Nice

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## DC240S

Work now begun on the front suspension components.

Front wishbones removed, wire brushed and placed in a Deox C bath overnight - the original black paint is hard as nails!



















I'm replacing the original bushes with a Cookbot alloy sleeve/30mmØ Superpro bush for the front - emulating the original early TT specification pre when Audi decided to dull the steering of the car by changing the front bushes to 45mmØ. The large rear rubber bush (prone to failure) will be replaced with a Superpro 3397 caster increasing bush.

Opinion is this modification really helps improve turn in and reduces understeer.

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/cookbotsincbush


----------



## FASt

Great job. When do you drive


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## DC240S

24 hrs in the Deox C, wash, sand, 24 hrs in the Deox C again, wash, sand and the wishbones were rust free and looked almost blasted.



















After further sanding to 90% bare metal I applied 2 coats of BH Electrox.


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## DC240S

I thought it best to get the bushes pressed in before painting the wishbones

Yesterday I marked out the positioning/rotation of the Superpro 3397K caster increasing rear poly bush.

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/cookbotsincbush

Process:

1. Using a rule along/through the centre axis of the front bush bolt - intersect the centre of the OE rear bush and mark the 45 deg and 135 deg points along that axis.










2. Establish the 0 deg and 90 deg points with a protractor and mark.



















3. Eyeball the Poly bush into a central position to ensure the axis 0 deg to 90 deg passes centrally/equally through hole.










4. Mark the the bush at each deg mark - transfer same markings to other bush.










5. Head off to find a garage that will press them in for no more than a fiver!


----------



## DC240S

The original manufacturer stickers/labels I recreated arrived today.

Took the opportunity to apply one (NSR driveshaft) this afternoon - a small detail.










Before:










After:


----------



## Mann8754

It's all just amazing if ever you get board you can work my QS 8)


----------



## DC240S

This week I've progressed a little further with the mini front end refurbishment. Suspension strut cable/pipe mounts and ARB drop links removed, taken to bare metal and repainted.


----------



## DC240S

After the garages I tried all quoting 'cant be arsed prices' and one even saying the arms are best replaced "as they bend" I decided to press the front wishbone bushes in myself.

I drilled/cut out the old bushes, sanded the casings smooth and applied copper slip. After storing the bushes in the freezer overnight they were easily pressed in with a big workshop vice.

When pressing in the rear I used an oversized steel plate to evenly distribute the pressure on the bush. With the front bush (45mmØ casing) I modified a 44mmØ Erbauer Bi-Metal holesaw as press tool.


----------



## HOGG

Well done

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3736069207


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## DC240S

HOGG said:


> Well done
> 
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3736069207


Well I saved £60

Might still get one of those though thanks!


----------



## HOGG

For the price. Might as well sit in the corner of the garage... 
I couldn't live without mine

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Today made further progress on refurbishing the front suspension struts.

Refurbished wishbones to go on this week and need to a little painting on the subframe too.

Some before and afters:


----------



## HOGG

Nice

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Over the last week I've been able to top coat the front wishbones - Ive given them a few days harden/cure.














































I've some work to do on the subframe before I install them.


----------



## rakrynaz

Wow! The transformation is insane! Very nice 

Real eye candy.


----------



## DC240S

Made further progress this evening.

Originally I planned to 'tidy' the subframe in situ/fitted before reinstalling the wishbones - however it was clear it would never be to a standard I'd be happy with - so as very little more was needed to remove it this is what I've done.










I've taken the opportunity to refurb the rear'dogbone' mount, upgrading the original and very soft rubber bush to a PowerFlex polyurethane bush, which is claimed to improve shifting feel and precision.


----------



## Delta4

Surely you'll be entering the car into a concours event when your done fettling.


----------



## DC240S

Appreciate you saying that - though not sure.


----------



## DC240S

Spent the last couple of days on the now removed front subframe that I'd previously tried to 'tidy' whilst in situ/fitted to the car - what a disaster!.

Condition wise it wasn't that bad - which left me wondering wether blasting was necessary before painting, for which I plan to use BH Electrox and either Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black or POR15 Top Coat Chassis.

I didn't want to powder coat and I wasn't confident getting a good finish with epoxy - the car doesn't see salty roads or wet for that matter.

To see if I could avoid blasting I attacked the areas of corrosion by grinding, sanding and wire wheel - then I applied a thick layer of BH Deox Gel, wrapped this in film and left for 24 hrs.

I have to say the results of the Deox Gel were amazing (same as Deox C) - after washing the sludge away the metal was left very clean and corrosion free. I felt this was sufficient and after further sanding and prep/keying the whole subframe was treated to 2 coats of BH Electrox.

BH Doex Gel sludge:










Results of BH Deox Gel:























































After 2 coats of BH Electrox:


----------



## DC240S

Today I applied x2 mist coats of black primer (2 hrs between) on the subframe - it's starting to look promising!


----------



## NtG

Really impressive work! Well done!

Btw are you doing all these with just jack stands or you use a car lifter?


----------



## DC240S

napostolidis said:


> Really impressive work! Well done!
> 
> Btw are you doing all these with just jack stands or you use a car lifter?


Thanks a lot!

Axle stands on a very tight driveway!


----------



## DC240S

So I've top coated the subframe with 1 mist coat and 2 wet coats 15 min. apart.

Fairly pleased with the results (considering its rattle cans) - when its dry in 24+ hours I'll see if I want to key it and add further coats though not sure if thats necessary.


----------



## Delta4

Have you considered a coating/sealant on these parts before re fitting.


----------



## DC240S

Delta4 said:


> Have you considered a coating/sealant on these parts before re fitting.


Yes they will be waxed/sealed and likely coated with a clear underbody wax - the subframe will be filled with protective cavity wax.

Do you have a recommendation?


----------



## alexgreyhead

Just had a quick grok of this page and it looks brilliant, bud 

One thing I'm sure you're on top of, but just in case - you need to make sure those camber adjust Superpro bushes are accurate to 1 or 2 degrees or you're going to have problems with the car pulling to one side and skipping on bumps - this issue blighted Shed's handling and went away when I removed my castor adjust bushes. Completely my cockup - I guess I just didn't get them accurate enough. 

When fitted correctly, they're a brilliant upgrade combined with the Cookbots, though 

/Al


----------



## Pukmeister

Great work, especially the subframe.

When I did mine my prep wasn't as good and the edges are starting to rust through the chassis black again.


----------



## DC240S

alexgreyhead said:


> you need to make sure those camber adjust Superpro bushes are accurate to 1 or 2 degrees or you're going to have problems with the car pulling to one side and skipping on bumps


Cheers!

I don't see how you can achieve that level of accuracy? Its possible to accurately ascertain the axis and 90 deg. perpendicular - but ultimately it requires eyeballing the poly bush into position.


----------



## auspicious_character

I used waxoyl on my Lupo GTi subframe, not that pretty but a few years later it is holding up fine.


----------



## DC240S

Aside to the refurb of the subframe this week I received from the printer another of the reproduction original label/stickers I've created (Graphic Designer by profession).

This one locates on the engine bay trim above the radiator - commonly on the 8N TT its either chipped, peeling or missing. Ive managed to replicate the original almost exactly including the silver foil material.

It's one of those things that catches you're eye and adds some factory fresh originality.


----------



## HOGG

Nice. I'll go look at mine tomorrow and report back lol

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## gerontius

Amazing work DC.
When you removed the subframe, did you just release the rack bolts & drop it down ? (wishbones already off) 
No need to support anything from above ? :mrgreen:


----------



## DC240S

gerontius said:


> Amazing work DC.
> When you removed the subframe, did you just release the rack bolts & drop it down ? (wishbones already off)
> No need to support anything from above ? :mrgreen:


Cheers!

Probably best to support the rack (mine didn't move though) - and I also removed the ARB.
Remember to go round and disconnect anything attached to the subframe - the exhaust manifold rubber/bracket and PAS pipes/brackets if thats the case.


----------



## DC240S

A little update.

In the end I took a brave pill and decided to wet sand/key the whole subframe for further coats. Despite being 'just' the subframe I wanted the best/most durable finish I could achieve.

I threw on 2x light and 1x wet coats (15min apart) of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black - after a couple of days drying/curing the finish is spot on and looks very close to original. Its proved to be very hard/durable - taking whacks with a hammer to install the fastenings for the under tray.
I feel ver confident that its a finish equal to if not better than powder coat and I will be using the same formula for the rear subframe.

I've comprehensively coated the inside with BH Dynax UB and will seal the exterior and perhaps apply strategic BH Dynax UC in places too.

I've also replaced the original rubber rear subframe bushes with PowerFlex polyurethane items.

Heres some pics of the outcome along with a gathering of refurbished parts ready to refit this weekend.


----------



## TTorBust

Looking good, before spraying with Eastwood paint did you treat any existing rust spots? e.g. with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. 
Apologies if I missed any pre-treated posts


----------



## BrianB

Amazing......just keeps getting better and better. Great work and attention to detail.


----------



## jhoneyman

TTorBust said:


> Looking good, before spraying with Eastwood paint did you treat any existing rust spots? e.g. with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.
> Apologies if I missed any pre-treated posts


Im pretty confident that was of his highest priority.


----------



## DC240S

Cheers for the comments!



TTorBust said:


> Looking good, before spraying with Eastwood paint did you treat any existing rust spots? e.g. with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.
> Apologies if I missed any pre-treated posts


Corrosion was fairly light thankfully - a benefit of a low mileage. what there was I completely removed mechanically first with grinding and sanding wheels/discs then chemically - thoroughly treating (twice) with BH Deox Gel.


----------



## gerontius

The work of the perfectionist is never done :mrgreen:

Great work DC


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Last week I finally received my rear calipers back from being re-painted to match the darker red of the SEAT Leon Cupra R (Typ 1M; 98-05) Brembo's up front.
> 
> I've fitted new genuine Audi piston seals/rubber boots and also replaced the guide pins/rubbers with new TRW OEM parts. Levers, springs, mounting bolts, cable mounts I refurbished.


doing same with my rear calipers.. do you know the code of this red paint please?
thanks


----------



## DC240S

After weeks of being worked on I was hoping to be on the road again by now -

Everything was refitted, the brake fluid changed and the system bled - however on a short test drive it was clear there was a pressure/pedal travel issue. No visible concerns so I replaced/bled the fluid again - only to realise the fluid I used though new, was uncomfortably old - so I changed the fluid for the third time! It seems better now but will take for a test drive tomorrow.

Also had to replace a faulty OSR ABS sensor - which was absolute torture for what you'd think was a simple job.

Today I applied a protective coat clear underbody wax to the suspension and running gear components,
plus fit modified Mk2 TTRS brake ducts to the front wishbones adding a little cooling to the front discs.

The clear underbody wax does subdue the shine/finish of the refurbished parts, but it can easily be removed and I prefer having the protection.

Now back on four wheels (BBS RT229 for now), hopefully I can get the alignment sorted this week and finally be be able to drive it.












































[


----------



## LesRSV

Absolutely Fabulous [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## torqueit

DC240S said:


> After weeks of being worked on I was hoping to be on the road again by now -


Worth the delay - really nice work!

[smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## DC240S

A few pages ago I showed off the BBS RT229 2 piece split rims I was planning to fit, which I had shod with new Michelin Pilot Spot 4's (235/40 R18).

Though after a test fit I've decided they are too much of a brake in originality so I'm refitting the OE rims - unique to the quattro Sport model.










In preparation for refitting I gave them all a thorough clean/detail including decontamination, wet sanding the insides - to add gloss/depth and remove some scratches, a machine polish and application of Gtechniq C5 Wheel Amour.

Some dark garage snaps of WIP.


----------



## Holt2498

Yep, those BBS RT229 are a lovely wheel but look a bit too fussy/busy for the QS and the originals do suit much better, great decision.

I had fitted the BBS SPEEDLINES split rims originally and they look great off the car but again a bit too much going on with them visually which detracts from the QUATTRO SPORTS DESIGN & ORIGINS.

Great work by the way, it's not often you get to see a car that's as good on the outside also the inside and now even the underside... [smiley=mexicanwave.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Cheers Holt

The BBS will really suit a Mk1 TT with the right stance - with QS though I don't think anything other than the OE rims makes sense - else you're removing to much thats unique to the model.

Lots more work planned - I've invested in an Electroplating kit to really add some detail.


----------



## DC240S

A small maintenance job today - fitting a new genuine Audi fuel filter which was cheap enough (£15) to do regardless of necessity. Looks to have been last changed about 5+ years ago judging by the date on the old one.

Not the dirtiest contents I've seen. I was surprised by the volume of fuel held inside.








[


----------



## HOGG

And still made in China....

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

HOGG said:


> And still made in China....


Simply economics of high volume production - doesn't mean poorer quality.


----------



## HOGG

DC240S said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> 
> And still made in China....
> 
> 
> 
> Simply economics of high volume production - doesn't mean poorer quality.
Click to expand...

No not at all. I just meant that even some genuine parts for German cars are still made in China, even though everybody knows that they reverse engineer and steal all the technology from us

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

Having purchased it a couple of years ago for a different project - this evening I finally set up my Gateros Zinc/Nickel electroplating kit. I needed to replace some expired chemicals and have also purchased a variable power supply hopefully making the process slightly simpler.

It's a 10L kit which includes an All Pond Solutions tank heater, dual line air pump and twin foam filter. Will be using Zinc only to begin with.

Gateros Plating have been helpful in answering questions and giving directions - hopefully I'll get some good results.

Update soon! - that or a big explosion! Literally wondering around the garage continuously uttering "Do like you oughta, add acid to water"





































A few test pieces ready for acid and pickling:


----------



## HOGG

Goods luck

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## iainbeag21

Looks absolutely beautiful! I have a misano red quattro sport myself.. I need new front springs and to change the clutch plus the garage when doing my calipers swapped them for silver ones and misplaced the originals.. I'm quite jealous, your work is beautiful.


----------



## DC240S

First go at Electroplating tonight - not a bad first effort I think.

Clear/blue passivate followed by yellow for an interesting rainbow effect. I hope there's some durability after drying - I dipped the parts in the pickle again before the passivates to provide an etch.
































































More soon!


----------



## jawin89

Looking really good. I bought a plating kit from Classic plating a few months back with the yellow passivate and still haven't got round to using it. I have every intention of refurbishing front and rear brake callipers with the kit. Probably will start on something smaller first.


----------



## DC240S

jawin89 said:


> Looking really good. I bought a plating kit from Classic plating a few months back with the yellow passivate and still haven't got round to using it. I have every intention of refurbishing front and rear brake callipers with the kit. Probably will start on something smaller first.


Cheers!

Get stuck in! I was looking to do the rear calliper carriers as oddly they are not originally painted red like the caliper on the QS.


----------



## DC240S

Unfortunately a couple of brake issues have occurred - a vibration under braking and a persistant brake pressure sensor fault code "01435 Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) sporadic implausible signal"

I've ordered two genuine pressure sensors to fit and in the meantime I'll strip down the front brakes to investigate the vibration. As a precaution I thought I'd get x4 new caliper securing bolts in advance (6KL615141) - but found they are £67 for x4 from VAG!? Madness!










I've sourced x5 suitable (probably identical) M12 x 1,5 x 70mm 12.9 HT cap head bolts for £3.90!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-M8-M1...var=584293948799&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

These came raw finished so I've zinc plated them to resist corrosion.


----------



## 89forever

I love your project.... you share a similar OCD as I... love it

One thing to consider with your plating, especially on high strength bolts such as the brake ones you've just bought.
As an unplated 12.9 grade, it's not plated for a reason and that Zinc Plating can induce "Hydrogen Embrittlement" in certain steels with a hardness of greater than 30 Rockwell C .
The plating does not lessen the hardness of the steel but it makes it inclined to break from a "Brittle Fracture"
there are ways of lessening the effect of this phenomenon by baking for several hours after plating , the correct procedure is laid out in ISO standards
There is a process called Mechanical Plating that claims to offer no Hydrogen Embrittlement , it is in use by most of the motor companies on their critical parts in braking assemblies "etc" for this very reason .
Do a search under "Hydrogen Embrittlement" and it will turn up the information you need... Not trying to scare you but it's easy to jump in and do things without being aware of the bigger picture...

Sorry for the science bit


----------



## DC240S

OK

I'll order another set of 5 bolts for £3.90!

I'll consider the others plating practice.


----------



## 89forever

DC240S said:


> OK
> 
> I'll order another set of 5 bolts for £3.90!
> 
> I'll consider the others plating practice.


a good coating of moly slip under the bolt head will be the best way forward so it doesn't seize in place.... not on the threads though. You can always paint the heads as you've done on other bolts.


----------



## DC240S

89forever said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> OK
> 
> I'll order another set of 5 bolts for £3.90!
> 
> I'll consider the others plating practice.
> 
> 
> 
> a good coating of moly slip under the bolt head will be the best way forward so it doesn't seize in place.... not on the threads though. You can always paint the heads as you've done on other bolts.
Click to expand...

Cheers - yes I'll paint the heads as others. So many HT suspension, brake and subframe bolts I see plated in build/project threads - I doubt there's any knowledge of Hydrogen Embrittlement.

What about the bolts on your rear calipers? They HT? Did the platers you used bake those as you don't mention it?


----------



## 89forever

DC240S said:


> What about the bolts on your rear calipers? They HT? Did the platers you used bake those?


all baked to prevent the embrittlement :mrgreen:


----------



## DC240S

89forever said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> What about the bolts on your rear calipers? They HT? Did the platers you used bake those?
> 
> 
> 
> all baked to prevent the embrittlement :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

How long for and at what temperature? - as you know the science.


----------



## 89forever

DC240S said:


> How long for and at what temperature? - as you know the science.


from memory it's about 190 C for around 4 hours but i'm no expert, it's just technical stuff picked up over the years....


----------



## DC240S

89forever said:


> all baked to prevent the embrittlement :mrgreen:


Are you sure! Especially when the platings 'cheap"

I suppose you find out eventually


----------



## auspicious_character

Tempered bolts.


----------



## DC240S

auspicious_character said:


> Tempered bolts.


What you referring to? The bolts are Class 12.9 tempered high-tensile yes.


----------



## TTorBust

"£67 for x4 from VAG" that's a bit high, I paid £5.60 each from the Audi main dealers in Chelmsford


----------



## auspicious_character

I'm referring to the plating removing the temper and making them brittle.

Putting them in the oven is just re tempering.


----------



## DC240S

With the MOT now due it now means I need to resolve a niggling intermittent brake fault Ive had for quite some time.

I have an ESP dash warning light that a diagnostics scan identify's to be a faulty brake pressure sensor on the master cylinder (two fitted).



















Apparently this isn't uncommon - there can be other causes but I've ruled those out.

Ive been putting it off as by all accounts its an absolute pig of a job as a result of the extremely limited access to the sensors located under the master cylinder. Estimates I received to supply/replace both sensors (best practice) were approx. £350-480 (approx. 3hrs labour/£100 for each sensor).

Fortunately another TT owner sharing online their own experience of changing the sensors, makes it look possible as a DIY job. It does require temporary removal of a lot of engine bay components/trim including the master cylinder reservoir.

After another read of both the Bentley/Haynes workshop manuals I decided to give it a go and began to look for the best price for two of the costly sensors (1J0907597B). I only had to search eBay - sourcing x4 genuine sensors from an Audi dealership for £10 ea. delivered!










Hope to change them in the next few days and will share the progress.
Typically I get in the car today and its fault/warning light free!
Milestone coming up shortly - 40,000 miles (15,000 in my ownership).


----------



## PlasticMac

Had both of my brake sensors replaced yesterday, by local indie. £480, includes the brake fluid change (which was overdue anyway). Mac.


----------



## DC240S

PlasticMac said:


> Had both of my brake sensors replaced yesterday, by local indie. £480, includes the brake fluid change (which was overdue anyway). Mac.


No doubt a lot less stressful and less time consuming. I want to use this to learn a little more about the car - I've found taking it apart the 'best' way.

I've just thoroughly bled the brakes/changed the fluid but will get this done again at a garage who can also bleed the ABS pump.


----------



## PlasticMac

I'd like to DIY, but, health "issue" means no go. Putting the pin number in was pretty stressful though! Mac.


----------



## DC240S

So this evening I started on replacing both brake pressure sensors.

A few more parts for the job arrived today - including fluid (temporary until fully replaced/bled), a genuine brake pedal switch I ordered as a precaution (sometimes the culprit for the same fault code), master cylinder reservoir seals and a SEALY pressure bleed system.










I de-pressurised the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse and turning the ignition, then began removing/repositioning components and lines that prevented access - holding them out of the way with elastic velcro straps and zip ties - It definitely pays to take your time.

The power steering reservoir and coolant expansion tank need to be relocated/positioned as not to loose fluid but don't need fully disconnecting.




























The fuel related hoses need disconnecting, the casing and wiring harness cradle nearby removing.










With those out of the way the sensors much more accessible:










After syringing all possible fluid from the reservoir, undoing the retaining nut and disconnecting the clutch supply hose the reservoir can be lifted away - for even better access to the sensors:










Whilst doing this I indadvertedly pulled the clutch supply line away from the connection at the bulkhead which is hidden behind a large heat-shield. Spent about 2 hours faffing with the last of four tiny heat-shield retaining bolts so I could to get it out of the way to re join the clutch supply hose.



















Had to leave it there for today as my patience was wearing thin and I need a spanner for the sensors. So far (fingers crossed) DIY is proving possible.


----------



## DC240S

Update:

The brake pressure sensor replacement is progressing - Ive fitted the two new sensors but whilst in the process of refitting the reservoir I dropped a small bolt that secures it in place - never to be seen again!

Predictably this is a back order part from Audi in Germany so I've a wait till I can finish the job.

In the meantime I turned my attention to tidying another area of the engine bay - this being the visible gear selector/shift arm on top of the gearbox. Its one of those lower areas you can see easily and with the original zinc plating worn away it looked scruffy.



















I purchased a decent used part I intended to replace, but then learned of an OEM+ mod using what I understand is a Genuine Japanese Audi S3/Golf R32 shift/selector arm (1J0711051M)
thats almost identical apart from the pin being closer to the shaft which allegedly offers approx 20% less throw.

At £40 it wasn't a lot to pay plus it saved me the faff of electroplating. You can see the differences here (new R32/RS3 part on the right):




























Its an easy swop - For reassembly I used some new zinc plated bolts identical to the originals and re-applied the factory yellow paint markings.





































I'm looking at ways/products to improve the appearance of the gearbox casings.


----------



## 89forever

For your aluminium use this

http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care-ext ... e-cleaner/

Follow the instructions carefully. It's fairly toxic...

Good find on the shifter, I did something similar on my daily driver (Passat CC GT). It shares the same basic gearbox/shifter arrangements as the TT/S3. I used one off an 8J0 S3. Good reduction in throw...


----------



## DC240S

89forever said:


> For your aluminium use this
> 
> http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/car-care-ext ... e-cleaner/
> 
> Follow the instructions carefully. It's fairly toxic...
> 
> Good find on the shifter, I did something similar on my daily driver (Passat CC GT). It shares the same basic gearbox/shifter arrangements as the TT/S3. I used one off an 8J0 S3. Good reduction in throw...


Cheers! - Yes I knew of Race-Glaze Alubright though it has mixed reviews - have you used it?

The shifter may amount to little if any change but its the same price as the standard part.

DC


----------



## Holt2498

I did the same modification a few months back, got the same part on back order from Stoke Audi for £40 inc delivery, a very subtle change in the gear shift travel but you can tell the difference. It does make you wonder why they offered this to the JAP S3 market and not on the QS as it would have been so in keeping with the concept.

Keep up the good (no, I mean excellent work) you must have the patience of a saint or at least your partner does.


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> I did the same modification a few months back, got the same part on back order from Stoke Audi for £40 inc delivery, a very subtle change in the gear shift travel but you can tell the difference. It does make you wonder why they offered this to the JAP S3 market and not on the QS as it would have been so in keeping with the concept.
> 
> Keep up the good (no, I mean excellent work) you must have the patience of a saint or at least your partner does.


Cheers Holt - glad to hear you've noticed some difference.


----------



## DC240S

Having removed the heat shield on order to have access to re-attach the clutch fluid supply hose - I couldn't just re-fit the old one - so I ordered a new replacement!

The original had lost some of its brightness and had some oxidisation that wouldn't budge - you can see the difference (just!) here:



















Before fitting I thoroughly cleaned the bulkhead, components and pipework usually hidden behind. Its a worthy exercise as the brake lines are known to corrode and need replacement. Mine were good and as a preventative measure BH Dynax UC was strategically applied to them.

I wiped down the visible painted surfaces with diluted IPA and sealed with Wowo's Crystal Sealant.



















Slotting the new heat shield behind the engine was equally as awkward as removing the original but with care (and lots of masking tape over bits I didn't wand to scratch) I got there! A highlight was adding the original retaining nut that I had refurbished/zinc plated myself - small things but big smiles!


----------



## 89forever

DC240S said:


> Cheers! - Yes I knew of Race-Glaze Alubright though it has mixed reviews - have you used it?


many moons ago yes... on bike stuff.... it worked well for me when I didn't want to split the cases on a bike engine.


----------



## DC240S

In preparation for the eventual arrival of the elusive bolt that will allow me to refit it - I gave the brake master cylinder reservoir a little spruce up!

Using the most permanent marker/sharpie pen I could find I refreshed the black in the high/low marks and raised moulded warning writing.

I also bare metalled, primed and repainted the wiring harness that hangs around the collar.


----------



## ryanmtt

Wow amazing work again 8)

Loving the sharpie pen trick


----------



## silkman

DC240S said:


> In preparation for the eventual arrival of the elusive bolt that will allow me to refit it - I gave the brake master cylinder reservoir a little spruce up!
> 
> Using the most permanent marker/sharpie pen I could find I refreshed the black in the high/low marks and raised moulded warning writing.
> 
> I also bare metalled, primed and repainted the wiring harness that hangs around the collar.


Out of curiosity checked prices for a new break fluid reservoir, OEM from Audi is about 45eur for LHD and double that for RHD. Aftermarket is about 15eur. But the sharpie trick looks good.


----------



## DC240S

Still waiting for missing parts to complete the brake pressure sensor replacement - so Ive been sorting other things.

After the front suspension/subframe refurbishment and mods (bushes) I took the car for alignment - very happy to see I'd done a decent job of the installation/reassembly with little adjustment required at the front and its all sitting fairly optimum.

The rear however needs work - a little to much camber and some toe correction required. From my understanding this is not uncommon on the (8N) Mk1 TT - particularly those with the OE lower S-Line/Sport springs as I've fitted and particularly when they further settle through age. The range of adjustment on the standard/original control arms is limited to none and cant compensate - resulting in excessive camber and a torsional twist of the trailing arm affecting toe.










The recognised solution is to fit adjustable length control arms - commonly in the lower position.
So this week I purchased a set of the adjustable arms (with poly inner bushes) manufactured by CB Auto which have an excellent reputation for quality and performance.

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/adjustable-con ... ms-tiebars

Additionally a few years ago I picked up a new/genuine Audi rear control arm 'repair' kit (1J0598323B) that consists of: 4x new control arms (1J0505323E), 4x outer rose joints (1J0505365N) and all associated bolts/nuts. I understand this kit was provided as a result seizures of early production factory fitted rose joints causing stress fractures of the arms.










Ultimately Audi opted to replace the rose joint in production with a bonded rubber version (as fitted to mine) that whilst durable is recognised as being inferior performing to the rose joints - which if carefully maintained/greased are fine. Old stock original rose joints are now quite sought after so I'm happy to have four new ones in the kit to fit along with the adjustable arms - I'm even happier I paid £65 for the entire kit rather than the approx £400 its listed at.

Will be fitting the adjustable arms (lower position), two of the original ams (upper position) and the four rose joints (outer) shortly before taking to have the rear alignment adjusted/set.


























[


----------



## McPikie

Looking well. I think a suspension refresh is next thing I need to do to mine


----------



## FASt

Well done &#8230; when do you stop. You put a lot of money in the car. I even don't wanne know how much. But it must be worth a million now

But respect for the job to make it perfect


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> Well done &#8230; when do you stop. You put a lot of money in the car. I even don't wanne know how much. But it must be worth a million now
> 
> But respect for the job to make it perfect


Cheers!

Took some time today to do another little tidy/refurbishment job - renew/refresh the original wiring heat shield/wrap around the Lambda Sensor wiring near the manifold - the original was looking tired and the stitching closure falling apart!



















I sourced a similar fireproof and (90%) heat reflective material on eBay - which is sold in various lengths/widths to be trimmed to size and has a velcro closure. Its worked quite well so I my protect other wring too.


----------



## ryanmtt

DC240S said:


> Whilst sat in traffic I have a habit of inspecting the interior/trim and if I find a imperfection or marks I start obsessing about replacing it. The latest part to not pass close scrutiny was the drivers side inner door handle/opener (8N0837020A7PE) - TBF the slightest of marks but it annoyed the hell out of me.
> 
> Bagged a NOS replacement online and will fit ASAP - LOL


Are these easy to fit David, I have a new one to fit and have undone the torx screws but it's very tight still is it the case of levering it out as the new one looks like it clips in

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> Are these easy to fit David, I have a new one to fit and have undone the torx screws but it's very tight still is it the case of levering it out as the new one looks like it clips in
> 
> Cheers


Fairly easy - undo the torx screws, slide the plastic lower retaining piece out and push/lever out from the bottom - you have to quite forceful.

Where on earth did you find a new one (cheaply)? - I can't find anything below £85


----------



## DC240S

Finally last week I received from Audi the bolt that retains the brake fluid reservoir - allowing me to reassemble the engine bay.

I took the opportunity for a deep clean as I began putting thinks back in reverse order to removal (blue tape applied to protect paint from chipping).










I then bled both the master cylinder, front callipers and clutch with fresh ATE fluid - using my new Sealey pressure bleeder. This is a quality bit of kit and made the task so much simpler/easier than a Gunson Eezibleed used previously - with a 2.5L capacity, pressure created/maintained (12 psi) via the plunger and ability to monitor this via the integral gauge.




























Finally after refitting the reservoir cap (after refreshing the black paint on the raised wording) and engine trim I went for a test drive and happily no fault codes or warning lights - job done! Ive also replaced all the original turbo hose clamps with JCS Hi-Grip Stainless Steel versions.

Next job is complete the rear control arm install/refresh/upgrade to enable correct geometry/alignment setup.


----------



## DC240S

Tonight I made some progress with replacing the rear upper/lower control arms and pressing out the bonded rubber outer bushes located in the trailing arms - these I'm replacing with NOS genuine Audi spherical rose joints originally fitted to the Mk1 TT (8N) early in production.

To start I made myself a specific pressing tool using two appropriately sized Erbauer hole saws (teeth ground back/flat), M12 threaded high tensile steel bar and nuts/washers - cost approx. £15



















After stripping both rear corners back to the hubs for better access I removed the old/original control arms, and Judging by the splits in the integral inner bushes replacements were due. Factory paint has faired fairly well for 13 years though the new arms will be thoroughly coated inside and out with Bilt Hamber UB/UC.



















I then set about pressing out the old rubber outer bushes.



















Old bush on its way out:










Ready to press in the rose joints:



















Old/original arms and bushes:



















A reminder of what I will be fitting:








[


----------



## McPikie

This just gets better and better


----------



## newrayTT

David, plan to do mine this winter and interested to see your set up for extracting the old bushes. What size of erbauer hole saws did you use?


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> David, plan to do mine this winter and interested to see your set up for extracting the old bushes. What size of erbauer hole saws did you use?


Ø44x38mm and Ø57x38mm - they are very strong and perfect for the job - the slots in the side allow you to monitor progress - make sure to use some thick/large diameter washers. Ø44x38mm is also what I used for pressing the Cookbots into the front wishbones.

DC


----------



## newrayTT

Thanks David assume these will also be ok for fitting the new rose joints.


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> Thanks David assume these will also be ok for fitting the new rose joints.


I expect so - just reversed.

I'll confirm if it ever stops raining!


----------



## StuartDB

there's some real satisfaction with pressing these out and in again. I used some large sockets


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Top work as ever [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Do you have a link to the heat wrap on eBay mate


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> Top work as ever [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Do you have a link to the heat wrap on eBay mate


||

Cheers Yellow!

Heres a link - the do a couple of diameters this being the smaller.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metallic-Hea ... 2749.l2649


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top work as ever [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Do you have a link to the heat wrap on eBay mate
> 
> 
> 
> ||
> 
> Cheers Yellow!
> 
> Heres a link - the do a couple of diameters this being the smaller.
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metallic-Hea ... 2749.l2649
Click to expand...

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

After leaving in the freezer for the day - tonight I pressed the spherical joints into the rear trailing arms and offered up/loosely secured the new control arms.

My DIY bushing pressing tool worked a treat - with a smear of copper slip it was an easy job.

The adjustable lower arms are set to match the length of the originals - exact adjustment will be done later. In the near future Ill likely remove the trailing arms/mounts and refurbish as I did the front subframe - for now they will be coated with BH UB/UC.

Original bonded rubber bushes:










New spherical joints:










New control arms in position:


----------



## newrayTT

David, looking very impressive and pleased to hear that your removal/fitting tool worked well as I intend to copy your design.
Assume that you are using the 517mm arms on the top.


----------



## DC240S

Yes - 517mm in the upper position - original is 515mm though Im not aware of any reason this would be an issue. Theres probably 2mm of moment at the bolts plus in theory it would help towards reducing the excessive neg camber experienced aided by a dialled in adjustable lower arm.


----------



## DC240S

More progress tonight  :

With the suspension weighted all the securing bolts for the control arms were torqued to specification.

Before final assembly and taking to get the alignment/tracking set I've had to investigate a dragging OSR calliper - removing the piston/inspecting revealed nothing obvious as the cause and the handbrake mech functions normally so I'll have to monitor this.   Since the brake fluid was stemmed to remove the calliper I fitted the Hel braided stainless steel brake lines between the body and trailing arms.

Sorry for the poor iPad pics! - the dirty/brown appearance of components is a result of a BH Dynax UB coating. Future plans include refurbishment of the trailing arms, mounts, subframe and re zinc plating brackets and bolts.

 




































 The only remaining rubber brake hoses left are those integrated/captive within the hard line along the rear trailing arms to the callipers. These are in good order however these are the now the weak point in the system, so I plan to make new replacement hard lines but with a union where the original rubber hose currently begins and a 23cm braided line from there to the calliper.


----------



## newrayTT

David, with the car weighted on all four wheels can you still get to torque up all the bolts ie is there enough access. I believe that it's not necessary to do this on the outer rose joints.


----------



## DC240S

I loaded the suspension with a workshop jack with the wheel off each corner independently. Technically not required for the rose joints but it did mean I could ensure the rubber boots weren't twisted.

On axle stands inner bush bolt/nut access is tricky - final "stage 2" tightening of the bolts by a further 90 deg has to be done in smaller increments.


----------



## newrayTT

Thanks David appreciate the information


----------



## DC240S

Last night I finally finished installing the rear control arms, tightening the securing bolts fully whilst loading the suspension with the jack.  I bled the rear callipers and also adjusted the handbrake which i think was the cause of the rubbing.  

I've given everything a coating of UC or UB BH Dynax - again this does hide the paint finish of the new and refurbished parts - which is a shame when you put some effort into achieving the best finish - but I'd rather it was protected.

  I've got some crazy neg camber to adjust before I take it for professional alignment. This weekend it desperately needs a wash after spending two weeks on stands.


----------



## FASt

Every post again I'm more and more impressed. What a great job


----------



## DC240S

Passed a mileage milestone in the last couple of days!
40,000 miles - 16,000 miles in five years ownership










Made a trip to independent Audi specialists Quattro-Tech, Peterborough to check the brake function after I replaced both the pressure sensors and bled the system. I was a little concerned that the pedal felt soft at the top - but after a test drive the assessment was it was fine and no further work was needed.

So in doing the work myself I've saved myself approx £300 compared to estimates.

Excellent customer service at Quattro-Tech - thanks to Paul for the honest assessment and advice.










I also made a trip to the Tyre Warehouse in Brackley to have the rear alignment set/adjusted after fitting the new control arms.

Achieving the factory settings was a little tricky but achieved thanks to the adjustable lower arms - I was surprised how much negative camber is factory set on the rear. I'm going to give this a trial ad see both how it feels. Accounting for current ride height (335mm - 340mm) -2º43 is near enough correct from the data available.

I could notice that the rear feels much more tighter and seems to follow the front.



















Took the rare opportunity to snap a couple of pics of the underneath - I'll definitely be refurbishing more components underneath.


----------



## TimGTi

Epic..... congratulations so far.


----------



## DC240S

To celebrate the MOT pass with no advisories and passing 40,000 miles, I wasted no time in adding miles by taking a twisty rural drive near Bradgate Park, Leicestershire.

Can definitely feel the benefit of the suspension tweaks! Turn in feels much sharper/precise and the rear wants to follow the front - more planted. I think the Michelin Pilot Sport 4's are significantly contributing to the improved feel too.










Once home It was time to clean off nearly 2 weeks of dirt from standing, plenty of brake dust from testing and the obligatory fly splats.


----------



## DC240S

Todays post brought another little addition/detail in the form of a new old stock drivers side interior release handle (8N0837020A) - new from Audi these are £86.40 inc VAT but I sourced one cheaper via eBay.

Usually these look very scruffy as a result of scratches and chips caused by keys and fingernails. The one fitted was a replacement for the original and though very good it did have some small blemishes, plus the new part matches the more satin finish of the passenger side/original.

Its these little details I like to get right.


----------



## HOGG

Nice

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## StuartDB

Amazing, this thread clearly demonstrates the commitment and effort required to keep one of these rare QS at top price.

Can I ask about the alignment, was the second one after changing bushes etc, as I didn't think there was anything adjustable on the rear?


----------



## David C

StuartDB said:


> Can I ask about the alignment, was the second one after changing bushes etc, as I didn't think there was anything adjustable on the rear?


On the quattro the rear adjustment is where the trailing arm meets the body.
There is also a small amount of adjustment in the std transverse links.

On the FWD there is no rear adjustment at all though.


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> Amazing, this thread clearly demonstrates the commitment and effort required to keep one of these rare QS at top price.
> 
> Can I ask about the alignment, was the second one after changing bushes etc, as I didn't think there was anything adjustable on the rear?


Thanks very much! - I do the best I can within resources.

As above - toe in adjustment is via the forward mounting plate for the trailing arms - though this is a balancing act with camber adjustment as the two interact from the resulting torsional twisting on the trailing arm caused by the control arms. I've adjustable lower arms otherwise theres little factory camber adjustment which can also adversely affect toe.

The data below is after the new arms and bushes etc. Camber is not a million miles away from prior to that - but without the arms I suspect it would have been hard to balance toe/camber.


----------



## DC240S

Currently waiting for some parts to arrive - more on that later.

I continued with some engine detailing this weekend - refurbishing the throttle body vacuum hose.
Its common for the paint to be flaking off and for corrosion to creep underneath - as with mine.

With the factory label removed I sanded it back to bare metal, submersed in BH Deox C overnight (with ends plugged), primed with BH Electrox and applied two coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black - Satin.

Refitted with new spring clip.




























Ive also ordered a new original warning sticker for the top of the vacuum reservoir.


----------



## DC240S

Despite only being back on the road for a matter of days its time for the next job!

This is to remove the sump to check/replace the oil pick up pipe and an oil service to include fitting an ECS magnetic sump plug and K&N filter. A common issue on these engines is for the wire gauze/mesh filter on the oil pickup pipe to become blocked and starve the engine of oil typically as a result of the plastic dipstick tube braking up and entering the sump. I don't envisage this to be the case with mine - but until you check you never know!

Its feasible to just clean the existing part - however a genuine replacement isn't costly.

ELRING DIRKO Sump Sealant 030.792 for VW Audi SEAT Skoda Alloy Sumps D176404A2.
06A115251 Genuine Audi Oil Pickup Pipe.
K&N Gold Performance Oil Filter.
ECS Magnetic Sump Plug.
Genuine Audi Sump Bolts
U058145757A Oil Return Pipe Gasket
6L Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30










The wire gauze of the pickup pipe:










Magnetic sump plug:


----------



## StuartDB

Very posh... wasn't there 'mutterings' that KandN oil filters cause low oil pressure warnings?


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> Very posh... wasn't there 'mutterings' that KandN oil filters cause low oil pressure warnings?


Ive had K&N HP-2005 filters fitted for the last five years (16,000 miles) and no issues/warnings.


----------



## StuartDB

Cool, that's good information.


----------



## DC240S

Tonights progress - sump off, cleaned and new oil pickup pipe fitted, despite finding the gauze of the original to be perfectly clear.

Oil wasn't the cleanest so I will likely do a second oil change in a week or so.



















Original pickup pipe gauze was perfectly clear:


----------



## Daz8n

Haven't owned a TT since 2012 but just stumbled upon this thread when Googling Quattro Sports (I really want one but moving to Australia) and somehow remembered my login details.

I've basically spent my entire morning at work reading this whole thread and just want to say what an amazing job you have done on this car. Such attention to detail. Stunning car!

Still not convinced on the Porsche fuel cap though :lol:


----------



## DC240S

Tonight I managed to complete the reinstallation of the sump, fit the new oil filter and fill with fresh Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30.

I gave the sump another clean with BH Surfex HD, dried and sealed the exterior. All mating surfaces were wiped down with isopropyl alcohol to remove previous sealant residue.




























Applying the required 2-3mm bead of the DIRKO Sump Sealant to the sump was more difficult than expected - the sealant seemed fairly gloopy and hard to squeeze from the tube evenly - in hindsight the genuine sealant in a runnable cartridge might be better to apply.










The sump has to be positioned/secured within 5 minutes of sealant application, so it's a bit frantic doing this and fitting/torquing the 23 bolts (diagonally).

I was initially worried I hadn't applied enough sealant - however once torqued up you can see a little excess creeping to the outside - now slightly worried Ive applied to much.










Turbo oil return valve connection:



















After giving the sealant half an hour to harden I fitted the filter (primed), filled with oil and ran up to temperature - no leaks found so the under tray went back on.

Another job done and peace of mind.


----------



## DC240S

Daz8n said:


> Haven't owned a TT since 2012 but just stumbled upon this thread when Googling Quattro Sports (I really want one but moving to Australia) and somehow remembered my login details.
> 
> I've basically spent my entire morning at work reading this whole thread and just want to say what an amazing job you have done on this car. Such attention to detail. Stunning car!
> 
> Still not convinced on the Porsche fuel cap though :lol:


Thanks very much! Not sure I deserve such praise TBH.

Funny you should mention the Porsche fuel cap. Well recently the 'alloy effect' finish had started to flake off! so this was returned for a refund.


----------



## Spliffy

DC240S said:


> Daz8n said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't owned a TT since 2012 but just stumbled upon this thread when Googling Quattro Sports (I really want one but moving to Australia) and somehow remembered my login details.
> 
> I've basically spent my entire morning at work reading this whole thread and just want to say what an amazing job you have done on this car. Such attention to detail. Stunning car!
> 
> Still not convinced on the Porsche fuel cap though :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much! Not sure I deserve such praise TBH.
> 
> Funny you should mention the Porsche fuel cap. Well recently the 'alloy effect' finish had started to flake off! so this was returned for a refund. This week the replacement arrived which I'm much happier with.
> 
> Again styling that complements the Mk1 fuel cap, solid anodised alloy with laser etched 'Petroleum' wording - has some weight to at 250g!
> Oh that is Very nice !
> 
> Nick
Click to expand...


----------



## FASt

Spliffy said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Daz8n said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't owned a TT since 2012 but just stumbled upon this thread when Googling Quattro Sports (I really want one but moving to Australia) and somehow remembered my login details.
> 
> I've basically spent my entire morning at work reading this whole thread and just want to say what an amazing job you have done on this car. Such attention to detail. Stunning car!
> 
> Still not convinced on the Porsche fuel cap though :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much! Not sure I deserve such praise TBH.
> 
> Funny you should mention the Porsche fuel cap. Well recently the 'alloy effect' finish had started to flake off! so this was returned for a refund. This week the replacement arrived which I'm much happier with.
> 
> Again styling that complements the Mk1 fuel cap, solid anodised alloy with laser etched 'Petroleum' wording - has some weight to at 250g!
> Oh that is Very nice !
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

But it will become vacuum


----------



## Holt2498

Do you mean a hoover or dyson or maybe even a shark, either way it looks proper good.

Well done David.


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> But it will become vacuum


How exactly?


----------



## DC240S

The plan with this car is/was to keep it standard as much as possible, however some original mechanical aspects/components are worthy of replacement with aftermarket upgrades which offer better performance, quality and reliability often at lower price than the genuine originals.

Examples being the suspension, brakes, and hoses - the latter being somewhat of an achilles heal around the car be it cooling, vacuum or turbo related - with upgraded silicone being the common preferred alternative.

After a fair bit of research Ive decided to replace the somewhat restrictive standard TIP (Turbo Inlet Pipe) with a highly regarded Badger 5 v3 silicone alternate. The benefits are visually very obvious! - it's huge by comparison and offers an 80mm diameter almost straight to the turbo. Badger 5 has put a lot of research/testing into its performance - key reported benefits to me are it being less prone to collapse, improved spooling of the turbo and better suited to a mapped engine.

https://badger5.co.uk/induction/v3-80mm-tip-colours-available-red-esp

I understand there will be performance benefits when combined with the standard air box/performance panel filter I have, but Badger 5 really recommends a cone filter - I'll perhaps consider that in the future.

Ive opted for black to maintain a subtle OE appearance. I carefully remove/store anything original for if I want to revert back.

Comparison:



















Full complement of JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel hose clamps to replace the single us originals:


----------



## FASt

DC240S said:


> FASt said:
> 
> 
> 
> But it will become vacuum
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly?
Click to expand...

no venting in this fuel cap


----------



## silkman

I wanted the badger5 too as I had to urgently replace my destroyed TIP, however due to urgency and being in Greece I had to go with OEM... That was about 120eur with discounts I think...

Definitely need to combine it with a big cone filter and suiting bracket, however my research took me to RAMAIR filters which are cheaper to Badger5 and most importantly, come in black to match the rest of the engine parts... Please post if you come across a better solution.


----------



## StuartDB

Im surprised dc240s took such a long time to get a B5 TIP.

I use a proram filter made by ramair, these are not foam. Before using this proram, I used a cosworth s2000 filter. The filters advised by B5 are the JR open cone filters.

I also got a heat shield from b5, it's really just a bracket to support the maf.


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> Im surprised dc240s took such a long time to get a B5 TIP.
> 
> I use a proram filter made by ramair, these are not foam. Before using this proram, I used a cosworth s2000 filter. The filters advised by B5 are the JR open cone filters.
> 
> I also got a heat shield from b5, it's really just a bracket to support the maf.


I've been balancing the originality. I came to the conclusion though a few select upgrades are acceptable and I keep/store anything original that replaced.

May try an open cone filter in the future.


----------



## StuartDB

It's not for a lot of people, it makes it sound like a school bus, the air brakes or whatever. 
It was louder in the tt as the s3 had some insulation on the inside of the bonnet.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> StuartDB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im surprised dc240s took such a long time to get a B5 TIP.
> 
> I use a proram filter made by ramair, these are not foam. Before using this proram, I used a cosworth s2000 filter. The filters advised by B5 are the JR open cone filters.
> 
> I also got a heat shield from b5, it's really just a bracket to support the maf.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been balancing the originality. I came to the conclusion though a few select upgrades are acceptable and I keep/store anything original that replaced.
> 
> May try an open cone filter in the future.
Click to expand...

Could do the Wak box mad and panel filter mate keeps the OEM look :idea:


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> Could do the Wak box mad and panel filter mate keeps the OEM look :idea:


Considering that Andy thanks - just need to find a second lower air box.


----------



## DC240S

Finished the replacement of the restrictive factory TIP in favour of an 80mm Badger 5 v3 silicone version.

With the original TIP removed its a good opportunity to see and clean areas of the engine/bay normally hidden:










Turbo inlet:










The various branches on the silicone TIP wear trimmed in length to match the original. Also needed to trim a small amount at the MAF for a good fit and to avoid any flattening of the bend. 
A few test fits were required to get it right.




























JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel clamps were then given a final tighten and the air box refitted. A hand mirror came in handy to check the seating of the TIP on the turbo and and correct clamp positioning (well it is called a 'hairdressers car'!).




























Even with a performance panel filter/standard air box it feels like there are gains - the turbo seems to spool quicker and there's more torque and urgency!


----------



## YELLOW_TT

DC240S said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could do the Wak box mad and panel filter mate keeps the OEM look :idea:
> 
> 
> 
> Considering that Andy thanks - just need to find a second lower air box.
Click to expand...

The mk4 Golf and mk1 Seat Leon's have the same power section the the airbox but not the V6 TT


----------



## StuartDB

It's a shame you didn't do a pre and post fitment logs of the maf g/s and desired and actual boost psi, they have been known to add 10bhp on a stock map and no other amendments.


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> It's a shame you didn't do a pre and post fitment logs of the maf g/s and desired and actual boost psi, they have been known to add 10bhp on a stock map and no other amendments.


Yes that would have been good - I know there's been a lot of debate about gains. Certainly on feel from driving 200+ miles before theres more pull throughout and an increase in top end - the lag I was experiencing before has decreased significantly too.


----------



## DC240S

This year its been difficult to attend any shows or events - largely down to the TT being worked on longer than planned.

I've finally attended my first meet of the year - with the TTOC at RAF Cosford. Excellent venue and great to catch up with others, put faces to names/cars and see what they've been up to - left with lots of ideas and plans and the job list continues to grow.

The location presented some good photo opportunities - shame I only had my phone.


----------



## StuartDB

Very nice indeed.


----------



## DC240S

The steel brake pipes running along both rear arms to the callipers are prone to corrosion and are a common cause of MOT advisories/failures.

I'd noticed some corrosion on mine so rather than allow this to worsen and become an issue I decided to replace them but saw the opportunity for an upgrade too.










I've fabricated 3/16" (4.75mm) Kunifer (copper nickel) pipes to match the steel originals, with all stainless steel male unions (M10x1.0mm). The original flexi hose crimped to the steel pipe is not replaceable/available independently - so I've ordered custom HEL stainless steel braided replacements with the added benefit of matching those used with the Brembo front calipers.

3/16" (4.75mm) Kunifer pipe purchased in a 25ft length, straightened using a cheap but effective Sealy pipe straightener and cut to length.



















I used some 'borrowed' new OEM Pagid replacements as templates for shapping/bending the pipe. This is my first time flaring and bending brake lines and I'm fairly pleased with how it went.










As the factory original brake pipes are painted/coated black, I wrapped the lines in black waterproof, glue lined heat shrink (9.5mmØ un-shrunk/3mmØ shrunk). This may cause some issue with the factory pipe clips on the trailing arms, but can be removed at those points if required.










The finished pipe with HEL braided hose compared alongside the standard OEM part:


----------



## David C

DC240S said:


> Yesterday I made progress replacing the steel brake pipes that run along the rear trailing arms into a flexi rubber hose to the calliper - these are a common source of MOT advisories/failures due to either corrosion or cracking. As the rubber hose is crimped to the steel pipe its replaceable as one part - consequently none of the aftermarket braided hose manufacturers provide a replacement.


Very nice.

I'd thought about getting a long braided flexi made up for the whole pipe from rear caliper to the normal short flexi.


----------



## DC240S

David C said:


> Very nice.
> 
> I'd thought about getting a long braided flexi made up for the hole pipe from rear caliper to the normal short flexi.


Cheers

Yes that is another option I considered and would work - I do like retaining the original pipe mountings and route though.


----------



## DC240S

Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?

DC


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


Personally......absolutely, informative and inspirational, always look forward to seeing what you have done.


----------



## StuartDB

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


The great thing about your thread is it proves you can start with a wheel bolt and build an entire car.


----------



## David C

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest?


100%

8)


----------



## imartyn

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest?
> 
> DC


Absolutely !!!


----------



## macadamy

I've just looked through the whole thread again, for the third time.
I wish I had the attention to detail.

Matt


----------



## GarryCurley

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


100%

I have just spent the past 2 days reading this whole thing on and off. Very inspirational and gives us all hope that most jobs can be done with a bit of thought, time and money.

Your thinking is a similar OCD as myself, I like that.

If you have time, would you mind listing the products and tools you use and would recommend for cleaning and maintaining. I have always washed and waxed my cars weekly, but as I get older I feel the need to go further and do it better, so a starting list would be a great help, as I can see how well they work on your car. Broken down to things like Body, underbody, dash, wheels etc. What are your go too products and tools? If you dont mind of course.

Garry


----------



## Delta4

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


100% carry on, don't be put off by the lack of replies per update, i'm sure that many are just enjoying the detailed material that you post.


----------



## jhoneyman

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


I find that the car is so mint and the work is so good I have nothing to say... :lol: 
Keep posting


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


Yes still of interest, and i'm pretty sure all of us admire your work.
I don't always post a reply "great work" after a post of yours, so as not to destroy the flow of the excellent thread


----------



## culver10

Please continue! I love the attention to detail and love you put into this fine car. Being a car guy also, I can appreciate how much time you put into this.

Cheers,

Phil


----------



## Jam13

DC240S said:


> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC


like others have said, keep on posting 

Your thread is one that I always check for updates, I'm still trying to work out where you find the time.

Keep up the good work


----------



## CaptRon

Absolutely. Please continue!


----------



## Baalthazaar

D.C. I don't post that often anymore, but I check in every weekend to see your enviable progress, it is quite easy to get jaded with detailing your work especially when folks are frequently speechless regarding your attention to detail....lol
Please continue if only to give the rest of us something to aim for.


----------



## DC240S

Cheers for the comments/encouragement everyone - hopefully updates at the weekend.

Id become disillusioned with certain so called TT enthusiast groups or 'clubs' on Facebook - seems there are some very egotistical, self serving, immature and toxic individuals at the core of them - I felt I couldn't be bothered with it all.


----------



## auspicious_character

I find the Facebook groups mostly to be kids.


----------



## DC240S

auspicious_character said:


> I find the Facebook groups mostly to be kids.


Certainly some show that maturity. Spreading slanderous lies about others and banning them unjustifiably when their over inflated ego is challenged or they fear being exposed. All take yet contribute little!


----------



## PlasticMac

auspicious_character said:


> I find the Facebook groups mostly to be kids.


Ogri called them "poseurs" (not 100% sure about the spelling) if memory serves ...

Mac.


----------



## TFG85

I've currently got the same problem you had with the ESP warning light, but I can't find any sensors for £10 on ebay. Do you know if the place you got yours are still selling them, and if so, can you give me the ebay item number please?


----------



## Holt2498

Jam13 said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this type of thread still of interest? Not sure if I shall continue?
> 
> DC
> 
> 
> 
> like others have said, keep on posting
> 
> Your thread is one that I always check for updates, I'm still trying to work out where you find the time.
> 
> Keep up the good work
Click to expand...

I think I know where DC gets the time, I believe he lives in a parallel universe from 12 years ago and all the pictures posted are from 2007 as his car certainly looks like a 1 year old car, then he somehow blasts through to 2019 to make us all drool over the concourse cutie that sits proudly on his driveway.

Dave, I'm jealous, envious and full of inspiration from your red beauty, I just wish my twin of your QS240 was in as good shape.


----------



## DC240S

Really appreciate the comments - thanks!

Moving on with a small job/update:

At some time in the hands of a previous owner the VIN plate was partially peeled off!? This has annoyed me since I've owned the car.










I did contact Audi in Germany to obtain a replacement - unfortunately when it arrived it wasn't an exact match to the original and incorrectly stated the manufacturer as 'AUDI HUNGARIA MOTOR Kft'

The VIN plate of the quattro Sport is unique amongst all other Mk1 (8N) TT in that it states 'quattro GmbH' as manufacturer as opposed to 'AUDI HUNGARIA MOTOR Kft' identifying the quattro Sport as the only wholly German assembled Mk1 TT.

The shells for all Mk1 (8N) TT except the quattro Sport were manufactured in Ingolstadt, Germany and shipped by train to Győr Hungary for final assembly - but with the quattro Sport the shells went from Ingolstadt to quattro GmbH, Neckarsulm Germany for final assembly.

The chassis number of the quattro Sport also begin 'WUA' - sharing this with all quattro GmbH, Neckarsulm built Audi RS models.

Fortunately to quote Liam Neeson "what I do have are a very particular set of skills" which I put to use recreating the artwork exactly and having it printed. I accept others may have kept the original for originality.

Artwork:










Comparisons:



















Original removed and the paint single staged:



















Replacement applied in the exact position of the original - I need to take some better pics as it was getting very dark and these dont do it justice:


----------



## GarryCurley

Its exactly this attention to details that keeps up coming back for more.

I also like how you are very patient, and take your time with each update rather than rushing it.

As you said, this VIN plate has been like it since you bought it years back, but its taken until now to correct.

We should all do well to learn that great cars like yours are not built overnight, but an ever ongoing slow process.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## newrayTT

Hi David, it was a pleasure to meet you and your dad at Cosford and I agree with all the comments on here please continue with your updates on all the work you are doing we are all interested and also learn from your different projects. I also agree about the Facebook sites, I read them but they are not what this Forum is but the disappointing fact is that this site has suffered because of their growth. When I first got the TT 6 years ago this forum was the place to go but it is not anywhere near as well supported now as it used to be.
On a different topic I have been trying to find that connector we discussed at Cosford. The number I noted down was 7807220 (hope this was correct) but I have been unable to find this on e bay. Any further info you can provide to help me locate this part would be appreciated. Regards Ray


----------



## imartyn

Hi Ray, I saw your connector question, was bored, so I went digging. Does this look anything like the part you're after...


----------



## DC240S

imartyn said:


> Hi Ray, I saw your connector question, was bored, so I went digging. Does this look anything like the part you're after...


Thats the one.


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> Hi David, it was a pleasure to meet you and your dad at Cosford and I agree with all the comments on here please continue with your updates on all the work you are doing we are all interested and also learn from your different projects. I also agree about the Facebook sites, I read them but they are not what this Forum is but the disappointing fact is that this site has suffered because of their growth. When I first got the TT 6 years ago this forum was the place to go but it is not anywhere near as well supported now as it used to be.
> On a different topic I have been trying to find that connector we discussed at Cosford. The number I noted down was 7807220 (hope this was correct) but I have been unable to find this on e bay. Any further info you can provide to help me locate this part would be appreciated. Regards Ray


Great to meet you and have a chat too Ray - You've a very nice tastefully modified/enhanced 225.

Its a shame the forum has taken a battering as a result of social media - this still remains my go to though.

See Martyn's reply - thats the clip I have.


----------



## YELLOW_TT

imartyn said:


> Hi Ray, I saw your connector question, was bored, so I went digging. Does this look anything like the part you're after...


Is that the cover for the injection wiring to the injection manifold ? if so I have it on my 2001 roadster but not the qS and if I remember right I tried it on the qS and I'd didn't fit as the plug is different


----------



## newrayTT

Imartyn yes that's the one with the same number Dave gave me, have tried to find on eBay with no success so if you or Dave can point me in right direction it would be appreciated.
Andy for your info DC has one of these fitted to his QS


----------



## imartyn

The part number is 030971921 and there's 2 showing on Ebay but why not try TPS or Audi first.


----------



## newrayTT

Looked on eBay for part number but not finding, what are you looking under to locate


----------



## HOGG

I have a spare air box

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## imartyn

newrayTT said:


> Looked on eBay for part number but not finding, what are you looking under to locate


I always search "All categories" you don't miss anything then :wink:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 1&_sacat=0

ECS Tuning has them for $2 and that's often an indication of the Audi UK price.


----------



## newrayTT

Thanks for that will check with Audi but also now have alternative source.


----------



## silkman

For part availability and pricing (especially as old parts become obsolete and prices raise/drop) I use :

http://www.amb-trade.de

Also has original parts for other brands mercedes bmw porsche etc

ECS is ridiculously overpriced, price for said part in amb shows as 0.57eur


----------



## 89forever

top job again DC... loving the new decals.... I may ask you nicely to do some for my S5


----------



## DC240S

89forever said:


> top job again DC... loving the new decals.... I may ask you nicely to do some for my S5


Cheers!

Drop me a message re sticker and I'll take a look.

Next little job...

As this model becomes older more and more parts are becoming obsolete - particularly the stickers/labels.

It's worth seeking out the few that are still available as they offer a quick win in terms of freshening up appearances - the latest to be replaced being the foil warning sticker on top of the vacuum reservoir. Most owners are keen to delete this system and inherent issues (leaks) but I'm going to persist.

Tired original:










New replacement from Audi (8N0010153L - £4.82 inc. VAT):


----------



## newrayTT

Silkman, cost is 14.8 Euro with shipping so not so cheap.


----------



## DC240S

Being the perfectionist I am is often a bit of a hinderance!

It took three attempts at replicating/bending the second of the rear brake pipes in 3/16" (4.75mm) Kunifer (copper nickel)! However the practice paid off and it was the best of all - so much so I had to remake the first!. Happier now with good symmetry!

Just need to apply the heat shrink before adding the union/flaring then I'll install them.


----------



## newrayTT

Nice work as always David


----------



## NtG

DC240S said:


> It's worth seeking out the few that are still available as they offer a quick win in terms of freshening up appearances


may i ask please, where do you find the product codes for stickers?


----------



## BrianB

Fantastic work again DC......have you thought about making some more sets I'm sure other members would be interested?


----------



## DC240S

Cheers all!



BrianB said:


> Fantastic work again DC......have you thought about making some more sets I'm sure other members would be interested?


Hmmm - that's where being a perfectionist would be my undoing!



napostolidis said:


> may i ask please, where do you find the product codes for stickers?


Theres part numbers on most the stickers - otherwise I google.


----------



## DC240S

With a pause in the biblical rain we've been experiencing I took the opportunity to impart some some protection to the paint as the wax I last applied/tested proved to be less than impressive.

For a replacement I've chosen Bilt Hamber Aqua Wax mainly for its ease of application/buffing and claimed durability.

To wipe the slate clean before application I used Farecla G3 Body Prep Shampoo and Bilt Hamber Cleanser Fluid as directed.










I was impressed with all three products - all meeting their claimed attributes. The Aqua-Wax was particularly impressive - being very easy to apply and having promising hydrophobic properties.
































































After 24hrs out in the rain:


----------



## Jam13

Looks great  my TT has been ceramic coated so no need for wax but I've been using bilthamber double speed wax on my daily driver and can't see past it tbh, great value for the money and out performs most of the other products I've tried in the past.

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

Im not interested in 'Ceramic' coatings - I enjoy the process and frequency of waxing and it allows correction/finessing when required.

Arguably you should be ceramic coating your daily and waxing the TT.


----------



## Jam13

Yes, your probably right. I wasn't really into detailing a couple of years ago when I bought the TT, I paid to have the paint corrected and coated, since then I've been collecting products and got myself a da. I will probably go down that road when I feel the coating is coming to an end.

Cheers


----------



## DC240S

Jam13 said:


> Yes, your probably right. I wasn't really into detailing a couple of years ago when I bought the TT, I paid to have the paint corrected and coated, since then I've been collecting products and got myself a da. I will probably go down that road when I feel the coating is coming to an end.
> 
> Cheers


With a cherished, garaged example such as yours that doesn't see harsh or even wet conditions - durability of ceramics is less important.


----------



## DC240S

Another little weekend update/upgrade.

This week I picked up this aftermarket CNC'd alloy cover that sits on top an original fuel filler cap and is secured by a couple of grub screws. This obviously retains the mechanical function of the original cap but aesthetically is so much more appealing.

Using fine wire wool/Autosol applied in a single direction I enhanced the more brushed alloy finish in preference to highly polished, as this matches other original satin/brushed effect trim - such as the foot pedals.

Original pedal finish:










Finish of new cap:



















Original plastic cap:










With new cover:


----------



## BrianB

Think I prefer that to the Porsche cap.


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Think I prefer that to the Porsche cap.


Agree Brian!

The shading on the cap is I think as a result of the sealant I applied. I can always go over it again.


----------



## Holt2498

Errr,

Link to the cap please David, looks cool.


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> Errr,
> 
> Link to the cap please David, looks cool.


Thanks Holt!

Sorry I don't have a link as I purchased it secondhand


----------



## StuartDB

some of your cap head screws are not in line.. ;0

I quite like the fuel cap cover, if I had it fitted though, it is bound to come off and rattle around and get stuck in the mechanism meaning I can't open fuel cap... just my luck...


----------



## auspicious_character

Weight gain.


----------



## DC240S

Decided the alloy fuel filler cap was a modification I didn't really need so Ive now sold this on. Have ordered a genuine NEW original.


----------



## auspicious_character

I like the heat shrink over the kunifer.
Nice touch.


----------



## DC240S

auspicious_character said:


> I like the heat shrink over the kunifer.
> Nice touch.


It should work very well! Just be sure to use the waterproof adhesive type.


----------



## silkman

Hey DC, have you fitted a cone airfilter to go with the badger5 yet?


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> Hey DC, have you fitted a cone airfilter to go with the badger5 yet?


Not in my plans yet. I may opt for a WAK box install as there's no visual change - perhaps a cold air feed if I can make it invisible.


----------



## Holt2498

I see the thread has returned, I was wondering were my rather photogenic twin had gone, I don't mean you David, I mean your car - ha ha  WELCOME BACK [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> I see the thread has returned, I was wondering were my rather photogenic twin had gone, I don't mean you David, I mean your car - ha ha  WELCOME BACK [smiley=cheers.gif]


Cheers Holt


----------



## BrianB

Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?


I picked them up on eBay - not sure of their availability at TPS/Audi?


----------



## silkman

BrianB said:


> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?


Same part left and right, 8N0201069 for quattro. Still available, at 42 eur each.


----------



## BrianB

DC240S said:


> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?
> 
> 
> 
> I picked them up on eBay - not sure of their availability at TPS/Audi?
Click to expand...

Ok, I know mine are quite corroded........something else to add to the "to do list"!!



silkman said:


> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?
> 
> 
> 
> Same part left and right, 8N0201069 for quattro. Still available, at 42 eur each.
Click to expand...

Ok, thank you.


----------



## Holt2498

BrianB said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?
> 
> 
> 
> I picked them up on eBay - not sure of their availability at TPS/Audi?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok, I know mine are quite corroded........something else to add to the "to do list"!!
> 
> 
> 
> silkman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BrianB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent the thread is back........if you don't mind me asking where did you get the fuel tank support straps, dealer/TPS?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same part left and right, 8N0201069 for quattro. Still available, at 42 eur each.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok, thank you.
Click to expand...

As a matter of interest DC, what condition are the FUEL TANK STRAPS you replaced ? Are they beyond use ?


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> As a matter of interest DC, what condition are the FUEL TANK STRAPS you replaced ? Are they beyond use ?


I haven't got round to removing them yet because of the crappy current weather


----------



## DC240S

Shifting between/selection of first and second gears Ive always found a little clunky - so following what others have done tonight I fitted a Cookbot Gear Slop Bush (£14.95).

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/cookbot-gear-slop-bush

Replacing the original rubber bush in the shifter linkage assembly and made from Delrin, a self-lubricating plastic - its a much tighter fit which is claimed to remove the 'slop' - initial impressions are very positive.


----------



## silkman

@DC I suppose that was an easy job, or not?

I remember having changed the similar plastics in the gear linkage in the engine bay as they had disintegrated. Need to check the one inside as well.


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> @DC I suppose that was an easy job, or not?
> 
> I remember having changed the similar plastics in the gear linkage in the engine bay as they had disintegrated. Need to check the one inside as well.


I managed it without removing the centre console - its a PITA though. I may also replace the other bushes as you have - I have heard cable adjustment is an important step too.


----------



## silkman

@DC
Can you please tell me which was the plastic part that you replaced in the diagram (numbers)?

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... 11-711030/


----------



## DC240S

Late last week I top coated the two new fuel tank straps with Eastwood Extreme Chassis black (Satin) and today I was able to install them. The insides were first protected with BH Dynax UB.


----------



## DC240S

Ive now moved on to refurbishing the two steel subframe/chassis strengthening/brace bars which are specific to the quattro Sport/3.2 v6. Again these were never painted well by Audi and have previously suffered from being partially hidden behind underbody covers.

Location:










The worst of the corrosion was removed with a sanding wheel before a thick coat of BH Deox Gel was applied and wrapped in film for 24 hrs. After further sanding to remove all remaining paint traces two coats of zinc rich primer were applied followed 96 hrs later with two coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Primer/Eastwood Extreme Chassis black (Satin).

Once the paint had been given time to harden/cure I replaced the protective rubber heat shrink sleeve with new - matching the original lengths.



































































































































































The five securing bolts I left soaking in a bath of BH DeoxC for 24 hrs after which they were etch primed and given a top coat of Eastwood Alu Blast.


----------



## StuartDB

The biggest noticable difference between DCs car and most other people's cars are the underside of DCs is cleaner than the top of ours.


----------



## Baalthazaar

Mines covered in cow shite at the moment after the farmer down the road had a slurry issue...... :?


----------



## Jakethepeg007

Awesome job you are doing there, was glad to see your thread back as I had only got to page 10 when it took a rest

Have you thought about blasting your parts with bicarbonate of soda, it's effective on removing the rust but still gentle on the part, to the extent I blasted my engine and carbs on my Africa Twin, without having to completely dismantle. Just a wash and dry afterwards and they were ready to go for paint, saves a lot of time over a dremmel type grinder


----------



## DC240S

Jakethepeg007 said:


> Awesome job you are doing there, was glad to see your thread back as I had only got to page 10 when it took a rest
> 
> Have you thought about blasting your parts with bicarbonate of soda, it's effective on removing the rust but still gentle on the part, to the extent I blasted my engine and carbs on my Africa Twin, without having to completely dismantle. Just a wash and dry afterwards and they were ready to go for paint, saves a lot of time over a dremmel type grinder


Cheers.

Its a good option thanks - though I'm short of anywhere local to do this and found cost and turnaround times an issue - particularly if only doing a couple of parts - companies rather you give them larger quantities and quote accordingly.

Though it can be more time consuming I do enjoy the satisfaction of doing the work myself - allows me to work on individual parts to my own schedule too.

Both rear braces now reinstalled (65 Nm torque for the M10 spline bolts):



















Underbody covers were cleaned with BH Surfex HD, dressed and refitted using new retainers:


----------



## Jakethepeg007

You could easily do it yourself for minimal outlay, a small compressor, body Schultz gun and a large cardboard box will work for a blast cabinet, you can buy 25kg of bicarbonate for around £12, I used less than half when I did my bike resto, you can also substitute the bicarbonate with fine sand if you want to be a little more aggressive. The only downside is it makes the prep so much faster you end up doing more!


----------



## DC240S

Jakethepeg007 said:


> You could easily do it yourself for minimal outlay, a small compressor, body Schultz gun and a large cardboard box will work for a blast cabinet, you can buy 25kg of bicarbonate for around £12, I used less than half when I did my bike resto, you can also substitute the bicarbonate with fine sand if you want to be a little more aggressive. The only downside is it makes the prep so much faster you end up doing more!


Thanks - I'll look into it as I do plan to go deeper with the refurbishing.


----------



## DC240S

-


----------



## BrianB

Excellent work once again....keep up the fantastic work.


----------



## DC240S

=


----------



## ryanmtt

Very cool mod, didn't realise they were different and they look much better silver in my opinion 8)


----------



## Mann8754

Hi DC impressive as ever and we can only admire. Out of interest where did you get the seat and steering wheel covers from?


----------



## DC240S

Mann8754 said:


> Hi DC impressive as ever and we can only admire. Out of interest where did you get the seat and steering wheel covers from?


Cheers!

This is the specific seat cover:

https://www.capitalseating.co.uk/audi-tt-seat-cover

The steering wheel cover was from eBay - search for the 'TRS' brand.


----------



## Mann8754

Thank you most kind. Remember once you finish yours I happy for you to work on mine :lol:


----------



## DC240S

The last couple of weeks I set about an interior mod others have done and Ive been wanting to do for a while.

The factory fitted steel Audi/RECARO seat side mounts have fewer mounting positions/options compared to the compatible aftermarket RECARO alloy side mounts (7207000A). With the later its possible to mount the seats approx 15mm lower at the rear which having experienced this set up made a surprisingly noticeable and positive difference to feel behind the wheel. An additional benefit is that the alloy mounts are half the weight of the steel originals - saving 1.5kg per seat.

I also feel they enhance the appearance of the cabin - making it less of a 'black hole' and complementing the existing alloy styling features/details - such as the pedals.

Original factory Audi/RECARO steel side mounts (I added genuine RECARO stickers):




























It's not entirely a straight swop to the alloy mounts as these don't feature an integrated seat belt receptacle mounting on the tunnel side like the steel originals - so the existing receptacle cant be used.

I didn't like the solution of re purposing a rear seat receptacle that others have used - I wanted a new/better solution that would appear OE/factory fitted - so I researched other makes/models that also had factory fitted RECARO Pole Positions to find something purpose made.

This lead me to a Porsche forum discussing the same issue/requirement and identifying seat belt receptacle mounting/bracket that's used on the Porsche 964 RS. This is secured between the side mount and runner using the existing M8 bolt - equivalent thickness spacers used at the other corners to level. Comparing schematics across various models I was also able to identify a compatible seat belt receptacle from a Porsche 911 with the required length - these having an identical mechanism/manufacturer to the Audi original.

All the required Porsche parts were sourced as NOS/unused.





































Original Porsche bolt cover trims for a finishing touch:























































Before and after:


----------



## YELLOW_TT

Do you have a link to the load spreading washers please


----------



## DC240S

YELLOW_TT said:


> Do you have a link to the load spreading washers please


No - I bought them a while ago. I'm sure a quick, not too difficult search will find the same or similar.

They are perfect at preventing compression damage/marks to the alloy.


----------



## Baalthazaar

YELLOW_TT said:


> Do you have a link to the load spreading washers please


Do what D.C. Did and research it....https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Motamec-M8-Load ... 43e84a5100


----------



## FASt

Nice job again. Why are your seats not Misano on the back. I thought that was standard?


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> Nice job again. Why are your seats not Misano on the back. I thought that was standard?


Cheers!

It was fitted with Phantom Black seats at the factory. The information I have is that no Misano Red seats were available at the time of assembly - being no. 961/1165 it is late in the run also the colours weren't sequential in production - they used what they had.

I'm not aware of any Misano Red coloured qS assembled subsequent to mine having Misano Red Pole Position seats - in fact all have the comfort seats.


----------



## FASt

DC240S said:


> FASt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job again. Why are your seats not Misano on the back. I thought that was standard?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> It was fitted with Phantom Black seats at the factory. The information I have is that no Misano Red seats were available at the time of assembly - being no. 961/1165 it is late in the run also the colours weren't sequential in production - they used what they had.
> 
> I'm not aware of any Misano Red coloured qS assembled subsequent to mine having Misano Red Pole Position seats - in fact all have the comfort seats.
Click to expand...

This one has &#8230; pssst don't on the price for the LHD ones 

https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/deta ... =285859806


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> This one has &#8230; pssst don't on the price for the LHD ones
> 
> https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/deta ... =285859806


What production number is it? Ive not seen later than mine (no. 961) with factory fitted Misano Red Pole Position seats.


----------



## HOGG

You should buy it and have a LHD & RHD versions of the same car LOL

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Holt2498

DC240S said:


> FASt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job again. Why are your seats not Misano on the back. I thought that was standard?
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> It was fitted with Phantom Black seats at the factory. The information I have is that no Misano Red seats were available at the time of assembly - being no. 961/1165 it is late in the run also the colours weren't sequential in production - they used what they had.
> 
> I'm not aware of any Misano Red coloured qS assembled subsequent to mine having Misano Red Pole Position seats - in fact all have the comfort seats.
Click to expand...


----------



## DC240S

What production numbers yours Holt2498?


----------



## Holt2498

1125


----------



## DC240S

Found some time to finally install the replacement custom kunifer rear brake pipes I fabricated with stainless braided HEL flexi hoses.

Clipped in place exactly as the originals using all the existing clips, though I did replace the zinc plated brackets on the arms.

Lots more refurbishment and resto work planned.


----------



## FASt

DC240S said:


> What production numbers yours Holt2498?


Always last 4 digits of the VIN


----------



## DC240S

FASt said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> What production numbers yours Holt2498?
> 
> 
> 
> Always last 4 digits of the VIN
Click to expand...

Already said


----------



## DC240S

Happy New Year all!

Today I progressed an interior 'embellishment' carried over from last year.

Red re-webbed seat belts - inspired by images of Porsche 911 RS interiors whilst researching Recaro mounts. I think they won't look out of place with this model and add a little contrast - its conceivable Audi could have offered these originally.










I sourced a pair of new old stock genuine Audi belts, which I sent away to a company called *Kolour Koncept* who re-webbed them with a 'dark red' - close to the Porsche/Audi Sport red - for £25 each (plus postage).

Very pleased with the service and quality from Kolour Koncept - quick turnaround, 11 panel webbing (5 original), 9-10 row stitching at the end and correct re assembly/positioning of buckle/sleeve - so they look OE.

I've carefully stored the original black belts to keep the purists happy.

Fitting was a little labour intensive requiring removal of the seats (again!) and most of the rear interior panels/trim to access.













































































































Ive not re-fitted the seats and rear trim/panels yet as I first want to treat the material on the seat delete base with GTECHNIQ I1 Smart Fabric AB, to protect it from drips off the rear hatch when opened.

More to follow...


----------



## Holt2498

I must say that on first glance I thought you were fitting RED 4 point harness's and I really did not like what you were doing.

However upon closer reading and pouring through your photos from earlier today I think they will look great, and I'm with you on the "conceivable" comment as if this was a factory option (so should have been) especially on Misano Red, and with colour coding for the other QS colours it would have been a NO BRAINER - V COOL David.

I'm thinking, I like, but also starting to feel like a bit of a stalker, this worries me, ha ha.


----------



## FASt

Nice.That will bring some color in the interior


----------



## DC240S

Holt2498 said:


> I'm with you on the "conceivable" comment as if this was a factory option (so should have been) especially on Misano Red


Cheers Holt,

In the absence of Misano Red backed Recaro's I wanted to add some of the missing red contrast. Looking at the Porsche 911 RS models red seat belts are prevalent regardless of body colour - this the combo that inspired:



















Appreciate some have the opinion modifying a quattro Sport devalues it - well thats relevant in the unlikely event I ever sell - however I've carefully stored the original belt units.


----------



## Holt2498

DC240S said:


> Holt2498 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm with you on the "conceivable" comment as if this was a factory option (so should have been) especially on Misano Red
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Holt,
> 
> In the absence of Misano Red backed Recaro's I wanted add some of the missing red contrast. Looking at the Porsche 911 RS models red set belts are prevalent regardless of body colour - this the combo that inspired:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate some have the opinion modifying a quattro Sport devalues it - well thats relevant in the unlikely event I ever sell - however I've carefully stored the original belt units.
Click to expand...

I'm with you David, everything I've removed to make subtle personal upgrades and enhancements have been carefully packaged and stored, if they've needed to be refurbed prior to storage this has been done, the purist would probably be more appreciative of this course of action as the car could be easily returned back to stock with all items as good as new.

I must admit I'm hankering after an AUDI TTRS 8S but I just can't bring myself to sell my QS and logistically having both as toys is too excessive, my heart is ruling my driving head I think.

Anyway, I'm defo doing the RED SEAT BELTS, already ordered the donor seat belt assemblies, call me a copycat, I don't care.


----------



## ab54666

Just spent an hour reading through this thread, great stuff, especially helpful might be the recaro install as I have some I may put in a TT when I buy one!


----------



## DC240S

Rear side trim panels, brace and net now re-installed - the three straps holding net from the brace now adjusted/tightened, as they slip through the buckle over time causing slack and the net to sag.





































Webbing alongside unique glovebox badge:


----------



## PlasticMac

Can you expand on the take up of excess seat belt slack please?
Mac.


----------



## DC240S

PlasticMac said:


> Can you expand on the take up of excess seat belt slack please?
> Mac.


The three straps holding net from the brace slip through the buckle over time causing slack and the net to sag.


----------



## silkman

Red seatbelts are an awesome mod on the QS. Very tasteful.

DC, it looks you'll manage to sell your QS for 50k one day in the distant future...


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> Red seatbelts are an awesome mod on the QS. Very tasteful.
> 
> DC, it looks you'll manage to sell your QS for 50k one day in the distant future...


Thanks

I had reservations about changing anything or making any 'mods' - but 6 years in I thought why not? though I prefer calling them "enhancements'

I honestly didn't buy a qs as an investment as others claim to have - that they are not depreciating is an unexpected bonus - 50k might tempt me :lol:


----------



## ryanmtt

Stunning as always I love the red seatbelts 8)


----------



## DC240S

So with the seats out to fit the re-webbed belts I took the opportunity to resolve an issue with the seat runners binding and not sliding freely.

I determined this was because the seat mount/adaptor to seat runner bolt holes are located further outward on the alloy version than on the steel originals, meaning the seat runners were approx. +10mm further apart and not precisely aligning with the seat runner to car bolt holes.

The resolution was to slot the side mount to seat runner bolt holes and fit thinner stand off spacers between the seat and side mounts.

Theres a limit to how much thinner you can go with the stand-off spacers to avoid crushing the plastic belt guide trim.

Original steel standoff spacer:


----------



## DC240S

Seats now refitted.

Very happy with how the red belts and alloy seat mounts combine to lift the interior.


----------



## DC240S

Ive been wanting to install a 1kg hand held fire extinguisher for some time but not found a location, mount, extinguisher I was happy with.

Browsing the Porsche forums again provided a solution - and specifically for the RECARO Pole Position seats (964 RS) - with an aftermarket seat bracket/mount manufactured by US company Brey-Krause. This attaches between the seat side mount/adaptors and runners, positioning the extinguisher below/in front of the seat, within easy reach of the driver.

Manufactured from TIG welded, type 304, stainless steel and tested to withstand a 25 G impact with a 1.13kg bottle its suitably sturdy. Additionally the satin/brushed finish also compliments the original interior well.



















I purchased a quick release for the extinguisher, machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminium with a black anodised finish. 
I fabricated an adaptor plate from 3mm thick 304 stainless steel to secure the quick release to the seat mount:

1kg powder extinguisher (Fire rating 8A/21B/C) in a brushed finish - secured to the quick release using 2x JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel worm drive clamps:










installation to the seat:



















#misano_tt_qs


----------



## StuartDB

very nice... but in the case of a fire in the engine bay, will you have the "stones" to pop the bonnet and stand in front of a ticking time bomb to try and put it out?


----------



## silkman

StuartDB said:


> very nice... but in the case of a fire in the engine bay, will you have the "stones" to pop the bonnet and stand in front of a ticking time bomb to try and put it out?


Thats how its usually done, an explosion is unlikely as the tank is in the back. Last week, at the garage I take the TT in, I witnessed a burned A3 engine bay.

Successful lpg conversion :roll:


----------



## DC240S

Ive been wanting to install a 1kg hand held fire extinguisher for some time but not found a location, mount, extinguisher I was happy with - I certainly didn't want it secured to the floor mat or screwed to the floor or tunnel!


----------



## David C

Are you putting that on the driver's side or the passenger side?
Passenger side is safer.
On the Driver's side it takes up space for where your feet need to move to should the worst happen.


----------



## HOGG

That's deffo passengers side. Recaro points out....

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

David C said:


> Are you putting that on the driver's side or the passenger side?
> Passenger side is safer.
> On the Driver's side it takes up space for where your feet need to move to should the worst happen.


Its a valid point.

I'd also considered the scenario of not being able to reach it on the passenger side, being trapped and having a fire to contend with - lots of horrible ways to look at it.


----------



## DC240S

HOGG said:


> That's deffo passengers side. Recaro points out....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


RECARO is on both inner/outer side mounts.

I'm going to look at swopping to the passenger side instead.


----------



## silkman

DC240S said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's deffo passengers side. Recaro points out....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> RECARO is on both inner/outer side mounts.
> 
> I'm going to look at swopping to the passenger side instead.
Click to expand...

Test if you can reach and unclip the extinguisher with seatbelt on; then you can put it on passenger side, else its a no no.


----------



## DC240S

Battling windy and freezing conditions this afternoon I replaced the hatch lower trim panel (8N8867979 21K)
on which the fabric had begun to sag/separate in places. These are ridiculously expensive to buy new from Audi (€353,43) however I managed to find a new old stock item online for £35!

New trim panel (top) with the original:



















Removing the trim is nightmare job thanks to the 17 metal spring securing clips Audi use - a lot of downward force is needed to budge them.

To ease refitting, prevent rattles and potentially make future removal easier I applied self adhesive anti-rattle/felt tape to the sides of each clip slot on the hatch:



















New lower trim joined to the original upper prior to installing on the car as one:




























Installation to the hatch required the use of some improvised props to avoid stressing the plastic:



















Trim and light refitted - note the comical warning sign near next to the light:



















Another little detail completed and not a job I want to do again!


----------



## NVSTMT

Hey! What are those cargo nets?


----------



## DC240S

NVSTMT said:


> Hey! What are those cargo nets?


The bar/net instead of the seats is specific to the model (quattro Sport) and factory fitted - weight reduction concept.

The nets on the boot floor are the original cargo nets.


----------



## SamDorey

DC240S said:


> Fire extinguisher update coming soon...
> 
> #misano_tt_qs


As you have the rear seats deleted, can you put the fire extinguishers where the seats would have been?

P.S. I love this car build!


----------



## DC240S

SamDorey said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fire extinguisher update coming soon...
> 
> #misano_tt_qs
> 
> 
> 
> As you have the rear seats deleted, can you put the fire extinguishers where the seats would have been?
> 
> P.S. I love this car build!
Click to expand...

Cheers for the comment.

Wouldn't be easily in reach and I'd be reluctant to damage any of the seat delate trim with any mounting. The passenger seat location works really well - though you wouldn't want to bigger than a 1kg extinguisher.


----------



## NVSTMT

So what does your "back seat" look like?


----------



## Holt2498

TT QUATTRO SPORT 240

REAR SEAT DELETE means NO REAR SEATS


----------



## DC240S

NVSTMT said:


> So what does your "back seat" look like?


The quattro Sport model has a unique Audi factory fitted seat delete as in the picture Holt has posted.
It's very much a trend now with owners of other models to remove the rear seats as they are effectively useless - copy kits existing to do this.

Genuine Audi components:


----------



## DC240S

Finally some pictures of the extinguisher installed in the car.


----------



## BrianB

Very nice DC [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Very nice DC [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Cheers!


----------



## CaptRon

As for everything else on your car top notch work DC!

Very nice!!!


----------



## StuartDB

What's in it? Did it come in polished chrome? I sort of imagined it would be red with instructions on it. Very good installation.

Now I suppose you can add something a little more flammable.

Wizard of NOS?


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> What's in it? Did it come in polished chrome? I sort of imagined it would be red with instructions on it. Very good installation.
> 
> Now I suppose you can add something a little more flammable.
> 
> Wizard of NOS?


Cheers! HaHa - I'll be staying away from NOS!

Its a 1kg powder extinguisher (Fire rating 8A 21B C) which is supplied in the brushed/chrome finish with or without a label.
Appreciate the benefits of foam - though it also has its limitations - I may get a foam extinguisher too.


----------



## HOGG

Red would have been better to match the outside paint and accents in the cabin

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## DC240S

HOGG said:


> Red would have been better to match the outside paint and accents in the cabin
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Says who! - Nah very happy how it is thanks.


----------



## davebowk

I don't think this is going to fit on the front of my passenger seat.
it's for my garage.


----------



## DC240S

Nothing major going on at the moment - just planning for some future refurbishment and servicing jobs.

I like to drive the TT as much as possible and have managed some cold blasts out in between the rain - this combined with the car living outside inevitably means frequent washing.


----------



## culver10

Your car is absolutely gorgeous!!! At 14 years old, it looks better than new. Keep up the great work and I love the great pictures!

Cheers,

Phil


----------



## DC240S

culver10 said:


> Your car is absolutely gorgeous!!! At 14 years old, it looks better than new. Keep up the great work and I love the great pictures!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Phil


Appreciate that Phil - thanks.


----------



## kampftrinker

DC240S said:


> Being the perfectionist I am is often a bit of a hinderance!
> 
> It took three attempts at replicating/bending the second of the rear brake pipes in 3/16" (4.75mm) Kunifer (copper nickel)! However the practice paid off and it was the best of all - so much so I had to remake the first!. Happier now with good symmetry!
> 
> Just need to apply the heat shrink before adding the union/flaring then I'll install them.


I'm assuming that the Hel lines are 23cm long with a female swivel M10 x 1 one end and a male swivel M10 x 1 the other end?
Mine need changing, and after looking at yours I'm thinking of doing the same. I've been looking on the Hel website at the custom brake hose creator. £26.99 each

Mick


----------



## Gossa

Been slowly reading through this for the last few evenings, what amazing attention to detail! A real inspiration, thanks! Can I ask if you designed and printed the stickers inside the windscreen yourself? My sticker is still there from original but its going in for a new screen shortly so I'd like to source an identical sticker.

Thanks!


----------



## DC240S

Gossa said:


> Been slowly reading through this for the last few evenings, what amazing attention to detail! A real inspiration, thanks! Can I ask if you designed and printed the stickers inside the windscreen yourself? My sticker is still there from original but its going in for a new screen shortly so I'd like to source an identical sticker.
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for the comments.

The sticker is not one I currently produce though I could - however I understand these still to be available from Audi (3B0010228A).

EDIT:

There's also an ebay seller:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE- ... 2749.l2649


----------



## Gossa

Thanks for the comments.

The sticker is not one I currently produce though I could - however I understand these still to be available from Audi.[/quote]

Ah OK, I'll have a word! Still waiting for National windscreens to source a Sekurit screen instead of a Pilkington, its only taken them a month so far!


----------



## DC240S

Hope everyones keeping well and staying safe.

Certainly means we have time to work on projects - I might actually complete a to do list!

Following on from the Badger 5 oversized silicone TIP - today I continued upgrading further engine hoses to silicone.

I've chosen Forge Motorsport silicone hoses which have become the go to for VAG enthusiasts - they've a long established reputation for quality, precise fit and excellent customer service, backed up by a 'Lifetime Warranty'

Its possible to replace pretty much all the coolant, turbo and vacuum hoses with ones from Forge's silicone range - however I'm cherry picking the ones I want as and when they are needed and/or I can afford them!

I'm starting by replacing the two upper boost hoses (Forge: FMKT008) - turbo to intercooler (right) and intercooler to intake manifold (left) - and servo hose (Forge: FM225SH). The right side requires the removal of the front bumper and headlight to access so for today Ive just installed the left side.

Original:



















Forge Motorsport Silicone replacement/s - I've opted for black to try and maintain a sense of originality:



















Left side/intercooler to intake manifold Forge silicone hose and rubber original:










Wiring harness bands transferred over from original and JCS Hi-Grip W4 stainless steel worm drive clamps in position (60-80mm top/50-70mm bottom):










Installed:


----------



## kanapa_dh

I've loved to see another person with REAL passion  great works Mate !!!


----------



## DC240S

kanapa_dh said:


> I've loved to see another person with REAL passion  great works Mate !!!


 [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## newrayTT

Excellent job David, those are next on the list for me but like you not over keen to have to remove the bumper etc to fit the drivers side hose.


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> Excellent job David, those are next on the list for me but like you not over keen to have to remove the bumper etc to fit the drivers side hose.


Cheers Ray,

The odd Forge silicone hose where they are obviously better than the originals is about as far as I'll go mod wise now. Ive removed the bumper before - its not particularly difficult just time consuming.

DC


----------



## newrayTT

As well as the TIP I have replaced all the pcv hoses under the manifold with Forge so only planning to do the inter cooler top hoses in the future.


----------



## DC240S

newrayTT said:


> I have replaced all the pcv hoses under the manifold with Forge


Thats something I will do.


----------



## ryanmtt

Really liking this mate forge hoses are the best in my opinion, makes me wish I went for black now 

I went for blue to match the colour of my car, I have bought every hose forge do for both my cars other than the coolant ones which will come


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> Really liking this mate forge hoses are the best in my opinion, makes me wish I went for black now
> 
> I went for blue to match the colour of my car, I have bought every hose forge do for both my cars other than the coolant ones which will come


Cheers!

Yeah - based the opinion of others and the popularity it was the obvious choice - not the cheapest though!
I've been trying to maintain an overall appearance of being original - hence black.

DC


----------



## DC240S

Whilst replacing the left upper boost hose I found the bracket securing the map sensor/pressure pipe to the chassis arm was a little corroded - so removed it to refurbish. Originally these are electroplated however considering its partially hidden location and exposure to the elements, for durability/longevity I'm opting for the tried and tested zinc rich primer/epoxy chassis paint combo.



















Original front headlamp levelling sensor bracket I'm doing at the same time:














































Into zinc primer/chassis paint:


----------



## DC240S

Whilst waiting for the BH Electrox primer to dry on the brackets I took a brave pill and removed the front bumper/OS Headlamp to fit the other Boost hose (charge pipe to intercooler).

Also performed a deep clean sealing the paintwork with Wowo's Crystal Sealant and some localised applications of BH Dynax UC.


----------



## infidel.uk

I have to ask , how often do you actually drive this TT ?


----------



## DC240S

infidel.uk said:


> I have to ask , how often do you actually drive this TT ?


  I try to as much as I can - I've managed 1,500 miles since September - though its been off the road during this time to do some work.

I've SORN'd it now though in the circumstances.


----------



## Jam13

Nice work mate, the black silicone hoses look great [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

Refurbished brackets finally ready to be refitted - including the AC refrigerant hose mount (top):










A couple of (shaky as no tripod) pics of the headlamp levelling sensor bracket fitted and cleaned/sealed arch/s. The BH Dynax UC wax is doing well protecting the suspension/running gear components.


----------



## DC240S

Small update&#8230;

Decided to give the pedals a refresh as they looked a little dirty and had picked up a few scratches. Once removed I separated the brushed steel cover from the rubber, then using a fine grit paper single direction sanded the steel to enhance/restore the brushed effect.

I may go back to this and refine the brushed effect using finer grades - but for now its an improvement.


----------



## Baalthazaar

Stunning work as usual D.C. It gives me something to aim for every time I see one of your posts....now all I need to do is convince wifey that it's essential to take off my subframe and spend a week prepping it for paint... :wink:


----------



## DC240S

Yesterday completed a Haldex service - replacing the oil, filter and drain plug (Genuine kit approx £70). The old filter removed and the colour of the old fluid suggest it had been done before but I had no record of this.

It wasn't half the drama I'd been led to expect! Rear of the car raised on garage ramps is enough clearance, with the specific tool removing the filter was very straightforward, no need to warm the oil its thin enough and drained/flowed well and no need to use a caulking gun - I pushed the new oil from the cartridge quickly using a piece of hosepipe.

Not a drop of new oil spilt inserting the new drain plug after filling!


----------



## DC240S

Gave the TT a quick wash tonight and grabbed a pic of the engine bay. Happy I chose black silicone hoses to keep the OE look:










More progress on insta *#misano_tt_qs*


----------



## FASt

Amazing under the hood


----------



## Blacklab!

Impressive. Real attention to detail there. I was like that with a Porsche 996 that I owned, but unfortunately the further I went the less I wanted to drive the thing. Its a real labour of love though. Great pics by the way.


----------



## DC240S

Blacklab! said:


> Impressive. Real attention to detail there. I was like that with a Porsche 996 that I owned, but unfortunately the further I went the less I wanted to drive the thing. Its a real labour of love though. Great pics by the way.


Agreed - there is a danger of going too far. The intention is making the car more useable through restoration, preservation/prevention and making it easier to clean after use - particularly underneath.


----------



## CaptRon

I was bothered with some fine scratches also and I replaced all the pedals... I'll know what to do the next time! Much more economical!


----------



## DC240S

I'm finding it impossible to just leave the car alone at the minute - its become a bit of an escape.

The next project I've started is to refurbish both radiator fan casings which are visible in the engine bay and looked scruffy due to oxidisation of the original plated finish.

Getting them out has led to project creep - more on that later.

Once removed and thoroughly cleaned I was able to separate the motor and fan for one - the other is permanently secured. To completely remove any oxidisation and original plating both units were sanded to bare metal, then after some precision masking I applied two coats of 1k etch primer. Once dry I then applied several mist coats of Eastwood Aluma Blast which I've achieved good results with previously.










Sanded:










Primer:










Aluma Blast top coat:


----------



## DC240S

Radiator fan motors reassembled into the mounts now the paints dry. Pleased with the results and think its a sufficiently OE appearance.


----------



## DC240S

Refitted the refurbished fan units and reproduced exact copies of the original Audi/manufacturer part labels/stickers.

Got involved in a deeper clean and detail of the usually unreachable areas of the engine/bay and hoses too.

*#misano_tt_qs*

Fans installed and label artwork:




























Some engine detailing WIP:


----------



## GMTTmk1

DC240S I love the attention to detail here, honestly top job sir!
Great to see one of these wee beauties getting cared for properly [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

GMTTmk1 said:


> DC240S I love the attention to detail here, honestly top job sir!
> Great to see one of these wee beauties getting cared for properly [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Thanks!


----------



## auspicious_character

Go on, buy it a car port.


----------



## BrianB

Top job, once again [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## DC240S

As the Intercooler crossover pipe was removed to access the Radiator Fans, I took the opportunity to refurbish it. Sitting low down at the front of the car not only does it connect the two side mounted intercoolers, but it also acts as a chassis brace between the two chassis arms. Due to the location they suffer a lot of abuse and the factory paint was never that good - most if not all Ive seen have corrosion.

After a thorough cleaN I attacked the scabby bits with a sanding flap wheel and hand sanded the majority to bare metal. The worst areas of corrosion were then coated with Bilt-Hamber Deox Gel, wrapped in film and left for 24 hrs. Once cleaned away 2 coats of Zinc primer were applied, followed by a coat of Chassis Primer and two coats of epoxy based chassis paint.

Heres a video of end result:

__
https://flic.kr/p/2iSPEwM














































Primers:



















I'll add some finished pics shortly.

DC

*#misano_tt_qs*


----------



## DC240S

The intercooler crossover pipe along with a new genuine Audi power steering oil cooler - before refitting

On the crossover pipe I've reproduced the correct, original stencilling and protective clear film.

















[
































































*#misano_tt_qs*


----------



## DC240S

Refurbished SMIC crossover pipe/new PAS oil cooler pipe now re-fitted using JCS Hi-Grip W4 stainless steel hose clamps.


























[



















Seems like you tick one job off and in doing so identify half a dozen more! - getting there though.

DC

Insta: *#misano_tt_qs*


----------



## DC240S

BrianB said:


> Top job, once again [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Cheers!


----------



## ryanmtt

Don't suppose you know the hose clip size from memory 8)


----------



## DC240S

ryanmtt said:


> Don't suppose you know the hose clip size from memory 8)


Which?


----------



## Kryton

I don't like red cars but would happily own yours! It looks the absolute dogs danglies & fair play to you for the amount of effort you have put in. I'm about to share it on another forum to prove a point to someone that thinks his car is fastidiously maintained. Keep up the amazing work


----------



## Fisher4772

Nice Job, are the lower intercooler pipes new ...what make are they ?


----------



## katak

If I win the Euromillions, you'll have to change of job ! 

Awesome... I enjoy so much this clean machine

Do you know where I can get a handbrake cover like yours ?


----------



## DC240S

Fisher4772 said:


> Nice Job, are the lower intercooler pipes new ...what make are they ?


They are actually the standard originals.



Kryton said:


> I don't like red cars but would happily own yours! It looks the absolute dogs danglies & fair play to you for the amount of effort you have put in. I'm about to share it on another forum to prove a point to someone that thinks his car is fastidiously maintained. Keep up the amazing work


HaHa! Thanks very much!

Cant say I was a red car enthusiast previously either!



katak said:


> If I win the Euromillions, you'll have to change of job !
> 
> Awesome... I enjoy so much this clean machine
> 
> Do you know where I can get a handbrake cover like yours ?


I wish I could change job and work on cars all day!
The handbrake is Alcantara trimmed and factory on the qS model.


----------



## DC240S

The power steering oil finally arrived and I was able to top up the reservoir and purge the system of any air following the replacement of the cooler pipe. Surprisingly very little needed to be added - think the system is approx 1L in total - and after exercising the steering lock to lock a few times no leaks found.










I have noticed the high pressure power steering pipe is showing some external corrosion I need to keep an eye on - typically this is the one the MOT man can see! Hard to treat fitted and to remove really requires the subframe to be lowered again - when the time comes for a new clutch I plan to remove, strip and aqua blast the gearbox so will do this then.

I've replaced another of the aged and venerable original rubber hoses - in this case the charge pipe/N75 connection hose - with the Forge Motorsport silicone version (FM225N75). Purists needn't be concerned - any original part removed is being safely stored.














































Having previously put some effort into refurbishing/painting the mostly hidden turbo pressure hose pipe mounting bracket (8L9145875), I discovered new originals are only £6! - so I replaced that.





































With the engine bay/trims refitted I stood back and thought how much I like their design and appearance - probably one of the few cars were they actually work!

Happily the cars now fully functioning again after a couple of weeks layup for recent works - feel I need to tax it for essential trips.


----------



## DC240S

Thanks to the weather and relaxing of restrictions I've been able to get out and actually enjoy driving the car again! This week included a 250 mile round trip to the Norfolk coast - the car performing faultlessly and the uprated induction really adding to the experience on hard pulls out of B road bends and away from A47 roundabouts.

The trade off is its now absolutely peppered with bug guts and really is in need of some paint protection/maintenance - being about 5 months since the last application of LSP - so will focus on this very soon. Ive ordered some Gtechniq W8 Bug Remover to try in the hope it will make that task less painful!

I've also recently ordered a number of NOS interior trim pieces from Audi to replace some imperfect items (to me anyway!), but also as insurance/spares as many trim pieces are starting to become obsolete and this may be the last opportunity.

First up to be replaced with new was the centre console storage tray (8N0959557A) - which has a soft flocked inner lining and plastic rim that are both easily/commonly marked.

Follow my progress on insta - *#misano_tt_qs*





































Learnt a little about the first owner in the process - with the discovery of an NCP parking ticket from August 2007 for 'Brighton Theatre' hidden underneath - expensive parking at £11.20 for 3 hours!










Follow my progress on insta - *#misano_tt_qs*


----------



## Maverick78

Hi DC's, thank you for sharing your awesome work on your TT !!
Like manys, i am very impressed  
I will buy an MK1 3.2 Tuesday (will make a topic), i hope i can take care of it like yours, you insired me 8)


----------



## DC240S

Maverick78 said:


> Hi DC's, thank you for sharing your awesome work on your TT !!
> Like manys, i am very impressed
> I will buy an MK1 3.2 Tuesday (will make a topic), i hope i can take care of it like yours, you insired me 8)


Great to hear! Look forward to see your progress.

DC


----------



## DC240S

Following on from fabricating my own bespoke custom stainless steel heat shield and the interest it received, I've now taken this further - establishing and refining CAD drawings with a local supplier whom have manufactured them in laser cut brushed satin finish (DP1) 304 grade stainless steel.

The finish has been taken to the next level!! I'm now offering these for sale to owners of VAG models sharing the same chassis as the Mk1 TT - such as VW Golf Mk4, Audi A3 (S3) Mk1, Skoda Octavia (VRS) Mk1 and SEAT Leon Mk1 (Cupra/R) - offering something more unique and with much greater quality than the current batch of similar products.

See my ad in the for sale section

Instagram: *#dcinductionshield #misano_tt_qs*





































88mmØ aperture to suit 1.8T and 3.2V6 engine MAF:










With a PRORAM (large) cone filter installed:














































Installed:


----------



## ryanmtt

Wow that's hey look awesome  may have to look in to a pro ram and one of these


----------



## Thornham20

Just read your full post on your car. Really good insightful read and you have carried out some great work.
I will certainly look out for your heat shield on the market place.

Great work


----------



## DC240S

Thornham20 said:


> Just read your full post on your car. Really good insightful read and you have carried out some great work.
> I will certainly look out for your heat shield on the market place.
> 
> Great work


Thanks very much!



ryanmtt said:


> Wow that's hey look awesome  may have to look in to a pro ram and one of these


Thanks - good to hear!


----------



## silkman

Very nice! How is fitment with an aftermarket TIP, eg Badger 5? I am only asking because I think the whole thing may need to move further to the right with the bigger TIP.


----------



## DC240S

silkman said:


> Very nice! How is fitment with an aftermarket TIP, eg Badger 5? I am only asking because I think the whole thing may need to move further to the right with the bigger TIP.


I spent a lot of time looking at positioning of the MAF/Filter using a Badger5 v3 TIP

If you look along the axis of the MAF mounting flange you can see the MAF is located as per the original air box if not a little more to the right - referencing the MAF wiring plug.

I've found that the Badger5 v3 TIP requires some trimming with either the OE air box or a cone filter - left untrimmed (ie MAF/Filter further to the right as you suggest) results in the MAF/Filter angled up/raised above the engine and contacting the bonnet. In this case forcing the MAF/Filter downwards to fit excessively compresses/flattens the TIP neck at the bend reducing flow. As Ive positioned on the shield requires minimal trimming (mostly at the Turbo) and results in minimal compression of the TIP. I have a pic I'll share of what was removed from the TIP.

The tip is effectively rotated towards the engine by the trimming.


----------



## jester225

Hi dc240s,could you put up what model cone filter and fittings you used to complete your moddification thanks


----------



## DC240S

jester225 said:


> Hi dc240s,could you put up what model cone filter and fittings you used to complete your moddification thanks


Hi,

Ramair PRORAM (Large) cone filter with included 80mm silicone coupling, Badger5 v3 oversized TIP, JCS Hi-grip Stainless Steel worm drive clamps (70-90mm) and DC Induction Shield (available from myself).


----------



## jester225

Thanks mate,i will be ordering a sheild from you soon thanks.


----------



## NtG

(12:44 minute)

Top top condition! Well done :wink:


----------



## StuartDB

jester225 said:


> Thanks mate,i will be ordering a sheild from you soon thanks.


The v2 B5 shield is one you really want to copy. The original hat shields are too constrictive around the filter.


----------



## DC240S

StuartDB said:


> jester225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate,i will be ordering a sheild from you soon thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> The v2 B5 shield is one you really want to copy. The original hat shields are too constrictive around the filter.
Click to expand...

Ive not copied any and had no intention too! I didn't like what was available which is why I designed/produced my own.

Mine is less constrictive than the B5 shield when you compare the fitted images. The B5 shield blocks off the front and is very tight - The B5 shield wouldn't accommodate a PRORAM large cone filter/velocity stack which is what I specifically designed mine for.


----------



## StuartDB

Yeah.. I can see the sides of your shield do not interfere with the filter. I hadn't actually seen all your close ups only the engine bay shots.


----------



## renardrox

Hello
Very impressive work performed. Congratulations 
Is there a way to get the pdf of the stickers you recreated for the rear drive shaft? I am retrofiting mine and I would like to apply genuine stickers
Thanks for your feedback


----------



## DC240S

renardrox said:


> Hello
> Very impressive work performed. Congratulations
> Is there a way to get the pdf of the stickers you recreated for the rear drive shaft? I am retrofiting mine and I would like to apply genuine stickers
> Thanks for your feedback


Thanks [smiley=cheers.gif]

I can sell you a pair of identical driveshaft stickers - drop me a message.


----------



## renardrox

Seems I am not authorized to send MP. Any possibility for you to share an email by mp?
Thank you in advance


----------

