# Injector seals How-to ... with PICS



## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Judging by this post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=166238 it seems there's a whole bunch of people with leaking/weeping injector seals who have all been very naughty indeed and ignored the best advice to have them replaced. My excuse was a lack of the exact knowledge to get in there and have a go, a lack of the right facilities at my home to do it anyway and lack of time to investigate - then winter happened.

Anyway I've done the deed now and this is a rough guide that would have helped loads had it existed before I started - so now you have no excuse!

You will need:
8x new injector seals (4 for the bottom plus 4 for the top), part no. 035-906-149A, £3.14 each inc. VAT - seems extraneous to me so you might do better going to GSF or another motor factor
Some oil - spare engine oil or 3-in-1 will do
WD40 + Meths or other degreaser (depends how thorough you want to be)
Kitchen roll / rags
A powerful vacuum cleaner with attachment for getting in to small spaces
5mm allen key with long/deep attachment or normal 5mm allen key + adjustable spanner
Assortment of screwdrivers
Wire brush / old toothbrush
A lamp

In the end I chose to just do the lower set, but having a few extra O rings is handy in case you drop any into the engine... 

First you need to remove the engine covers, then you will see the fuel injector rail just in front of the engine block - it's a 15" or so long section of metal with a plastic cable harness attached to it and a round fitment on the righthand end (fuel regulator).
Unclip the small hose from the right hand end of the rail, and free off the cable harness. This is held on by a series of plastic clips, the top ones are easy but the bottom ones are a bit harder to get at. You can see them here, taken from the back of the rail. :








It's all a bit stiff and fiddly but once it's off / loose you will be able to access a pair of 5mm allen bolts underneath. You can just see the lefthand one by injector #1 in this pic. This is where you need the allen key with a long attachment, or failing that you can use an adjustable spanner on a normal 5mm allen key - this is what I did. They're weren't very tight.
Here's a pic of the cable harness freed off to access the bolts:








Careful removing the bolts, you don't want to drop them into the engine bay. Now you can give the rail a little tug and the injectors should pop out of the inlet manifold. 








You need to be really careful around this area now as you don't want any foreign objects falling into the holes. I blocked them up with some kitchen roll and had a good go round the whole area with the vacuum. I used the wire brush to loosen off all the crud that was caked round the inlets, and finally WD40 and meths to clean up the leaked oil and general residue.
All of the inlets were pretty grubby and No.1 which had the most obvious seepage was filthy:
















Told you! It really needed doing.
If you want more access, you can remove the metal spring clips holding the cables onto the injectors (see pic above) and lift the cables away, this lets you fully detach the cable harness from the rail. With the whole area cleaned up you can now prise the old lower seals off the injectors - a small screwdriver helps get it started.








The new ones just slip straight on, you can use a bit of oil as lube if you need to. It's best not to use silicone oil as the silicone residues can carry through the engine and interfere with the lambda sensor, thanks to John-H for some timely advice here.
If you want to replace the upper set of seals as well, you'll need to remove the injectors from the fuel rail. They're held in place by a square U-shaped metal clip and just pull out with the clip removed. Be warned - fuel will leak out so make sure you have removed all sources of ignition and stopped fuel supply to the rail before going this far. I decided not to replace the upper seals as (a) I didn't want to risk a major fuel leak and (b) there was no evidence of leak from these seals. If I were to do this I'd remove the fuel line from the rail and stopper it up before starting the job - but this is the limit of my knowledge so you'll have to seek further advice.
With the seals replaced and everything cleaned up, re-fitting is simply the reverse of removal.
Job done:








Now you can go for a short test drive and have a well-earned beer.
In total it took about 2.5 hours, mainly because I wasn't sure exactly what to do and I'm pretty fussy about cleaning stuff as I go.


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Great write up mate. These "how- to's" are so useful


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

No1. Looks REALLY BAD!!!!


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Cheers and yes, No1 was really bad. I'm not sure if there isn't another problem there, one to watch.


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## DAZTTC (May 20, 2005)

Nice write up mate thanks. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

DAZ


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

Bikerz said:


> No1. Looks REALLY BAD!!!!


Bad... How the hell you can ignore that one !!! it's not leaking or weeping... i'm surpirsed it's not just bee shooting out onto the underside of the bonnet... looks terrible 

Very good write up though... i'd be worried about knocking the crap into the engine... and i do hope your joking about the o rings into the engine... surly thats going to be a a molton block of rubber until it disintergrates completely...


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## BlackBlur (Mar 29, 2010)

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I removed my injectors the other day for them to be serviced took loads of pics but never got round to doing a write up!

Good job


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

tony_rigby_uk said:


> Bikerz said:
> 
> 
> > No1. Looks REALLY BAD!!!!
> ...


No, it just disappeared down a gap, probably find it on the undertray when I do the oil change in a couple of months. The trick with the crap not going into the engine is to get your sister/mrs/mate to stand there holding the vacuum while you have a good scrub with a wire brush. Bit like going to the dentist...

Cheers for the comments


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## Neb (Oct 25, 2007)

great write up. I'll have to take a peak at mine sometime soon


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## jimbomiller (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for the how to badyaker!
Just replaced mine yesterday - didn't realise how filthy they were!

Found another writeup to help with changing the upper seals:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng94.shtml

Have got some spare seals left for sale if anyone wants to do theirs:
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/view...sid=49935625c69cce2f55c49b8508ebf388#p1739910

Cheers, Jim


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

No probs, glad it was useful. Might have a go at the top ones some time now!


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## jimbomiller (Jul 9, 2008)

Was a bit hesitant about removing them from the fuel rail too but turned out to be pretty easy!

If I was to do it again though I'd probably replace the metal clips (035 906 037) as mine are getting a bit corroded...


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

I've just changed mine both top and bottom seals. Thanks for the guide it was very useful. I took out the fuel pump fuse (No 28) and let the engine crank over for about 10 seconds. When I pulled the injectors from the rail to change the top seals only a small amount of fuel come out and was easily soaked up by a piece of rag.

Very easy job to do and all in only took about an hour and that was completely removing the injectors and cleaning them up 

Also thanks Jim for the set of seals :wink:


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## GoldenBunip (Nov 9, 2009)

Bump

Another thanks to Jim for the seals, all done top & bottom in about an hour, nice easy job only had minor leak on 3, but worth doing all of them on a high mileage 9 year old.

Right off for a burn


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## jonesy118 (Aug 29, 2010)

Great step by step guide.

One question though, you mention cleaning the surround area (inlet manifold) with meths/WD40.

What about the body of the injector itself? Did you also use meths/WD40 on these parts?


















I'm going to be tackling this tomorrow.


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

yes. i did. I daresay spray on carb cleaner would be fine too.

Just not silicone!


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

Are there any symptoms to look for or is it just a visual check, with symptoms showing after time?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

usually just a visual is the first tell tale sign, a weeping around where the injectors go into the inlet manifold, you may find this as a oily brown, with losts of dirt on it, dirt tends to stick to the wet areas and make a nice sludge...depends on how long they've weeped for..


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## aarond (Apr 12, 2013)

bringing this back from the dead, did all of you just get the seals from audi?


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## pleasure (Sep 11, 2012)

I spotted this which looks a more sensible price..

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/23 ... ap-source/


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## aarond (Apr 12, 2013)

Nice thanks are these the right size yeah? Thank you


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## td_100 (Jun 26, 2013)

I done this yesterday however I now have the engine light on the dash. Any ideas?


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## melmoth (Jul 20, 2013)

td_100 said:


> I done this yesterday however I now have the engine light on the dash. Any ideas?


Are you sure you connected all the sensors back? It might help to get it on VCDS and find out what the fault is.

On an unrelated matter, it is a good idea to remove the inlet manifold when doing this for fear of dropping any contaminants into the engine, can prove a costly mistake for not much extra work at all, especially if anyone plans to replace the plastic injector seats.


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## td_100 (Jun 26, 2013)

Yes I found a loose connector re fitted and all was fine

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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

This post seems very helpful and I'll be using in the near future so thank you 

Just for people wanting to do this and needing to buy the o ring seals I have found them cheaper on euro car parts.

Bosch mfg part number is: 1280210711
Euro car parts part number is: 430110200

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/sear ... 200/p/home

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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

tommatt90 said:


> This post seems very helpful and I'll be using in the near future so thank you
> 
> Just for people wanting to do this and needing to buy the o ring seals I have found them cheaper on euro car parts.
> 
> ...


Holy thread necro batman 

Nice find! Do you know if you need to replace the seals everytime you remove the injectors, or is only if they leak. Asking as I might remove my IM to polish it this weekend.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

tommatt90 said:


> This post seems very helpful and I'll be using in the near future so thank you
> 
> Just for people wanting to do this and needing to buy the o ring seals I have found them cheaper on euro car parts.
> 
> ...


Which ones are these for though as there are two sizes for our cars:-

Bosch 386cc (Audi TT 225hp)
Audi #: 06A-906-031J
Bosch #: 0280155892
lite blue long neck, not grey short neck
O-Rings (seals)
Upper: 035 906 149 A (7.5mm x 3.5mm) -> same as OEM/Stock 1.8t 282cc
Lower: 06A 906 149 A (9.3mm x 2.6mm)

Audi OEM/Stock 1.8t 282CC Injector
Audi #:06B133551M
Injector O-Ring (seal)
Upper / Lower: 035 906149A (7.5mm x 3.5mm)


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## mstew (Mar 17, 2012)

http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-tt-t ... on-nozzle/


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

My bad, I presumed the top and bottom seals were the same, like in the original post it was the same part number. Then I found the bosch part number and rang ecp

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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

http://www.europaparts.com/volkswagen/i ... 6149a.html

According to a few sites it fits upper and lower :S

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## Callum-TT (Jun 3, 2013)

tommatt90 said:


> http://www.europaparts.com/volkswagen/injector-o-ring-035906149a.html
> 
> According to a few sites it fits upper and lower :S
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do we know if they have to be changed every time injectors are removed?

Hoping to change my air inlet and fit the spacer early next week.


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

I've had the rail off a few times since and haven't changed since. No leaks. It is just an O ring albeit possibly of some exotic material.


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

You bought the sem manifold mate?

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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

No, standard here.


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Sorry bud, should of quoted Callum

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## Callum-TT (Jun 3, 2013)

tommatt90 said:


> You bought the sem manifold mate?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got a decent painted standard manifold whilst I wait for my sem manifold to arrive.


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## Serendipitous (Nov 19, 2011)

Gone Ape said:


> Judging by this post http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 2&t=166238 it seems there's a whole bunch of people with leaking/weeping injector seals who have all been very naughty indeed and ignored the best advice to have them replaced. My excuse was a lack of the exact knowledge to get in there and have a go, a lack of the right facilities at my home to do it anyway and lack of time to investigate - then winter happened.
> 
> Anyway I've done the deed now and this is a rough guide that would have helped loads had it existed before I started - so now you have no excuse!
> 
> ...


It's a good write up, but personally, I wouldn't be happy removing the injectors if they were still that filthy - especially number one, which looks like a load of grime is about to drop into the cylinder. 
Carb cleaner in an aerosol is brilliant for removing grease and crap, followed by an airline to blast the crud away.


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

All well and good if you have access to an airline.

If not a vacuum on hand as you lift the rail is the next best thing.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

aarond said:


> bringing this back from the dead, did all of you just get the seals from audi?


 From here:- 
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p51271 ... _info.html

as recommended.


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## kasandrich (Sep 5, 2011)

The resurrection of this thread has reminded me that WAK advised me I had one or maybe two that were weeping a bit 2 years go  So I have ordered a pack of 10 rings from Simply bearings, and it would appear that the lower seals vary with engine code, ours is a BAM so upper and lower are the same. So I will change them in the next week or so.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Yeah I think it's just the APX that are different for the lower seals


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## corradoman (Sep 11, 2010)

kasandrich said:


> The resurrection of this thread has reminded me that WAK advised me I had one or maybe two that were weeping a bit 2 years go  So I have ordered a pack of 10 rings from Simply bearings, and it would appear that the lower seals vary with engine code, ours is a BAM so upper and lower are the same. So I will change them in the next week or so.


I have just bought a pack of these seals from simply bearings, i take it these will do the upper and lower on a bam then, or do i need a different set for the lowers. cheers


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

corradoman said:


> kasandrich said:
> 
> 
> > The resurrection of this thread has reminded me that WAK advised me I had one or maybe two that were weeping a bit 2 years go  So I have ordered a pack of 10 rings from Simply bearings, and it would appear that the lower seals vary with engine code, ours is a BAM so upper and lower are the same. So I will change them in the next week or so.
> ...


Yeah the BAM has the same upper and lower so your fine.
It's the APX that is different and simply bearings don't do the lower ones.


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## corradoman (Sep 11, 2010)

Thanks


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