# My Phantom Black V6 Thread



## MT-V6

I've been a member on here for a while and I thought I'd start a progress thread for my TT. The progress threads section isn't active so I posted it here.

My previous cars have both been Corsas.

The first was my first car and was a 2001 1.0 'C'. This was modified on a very tight budget, and was completely cosmetic. I wanted to keep it subtle, without any bodykits etc. I colour coded various parts and tinted others, I even resprayed the wheels myself.



















Then I moved on to a 2006 1.3 CDTi 'D', a much bigger and more modern car, with the small diesel as I was back and forwards from uni and it needed to be cheap to run. Quite nippy too, especially compared to the more common 1.0 and 1.2's. I didn't do so much to this, but I did swap the lights with SRi ones and fitted OEM Limited Edition wheels. I also fitted OEM cruise control to this, and that is where I got the retrofitting bug!



















When insurance cost became more reasonable I decided I wanted something with a big engine, preferably a 'V' after growing up with my dad owning several Rover V8s. I also wanted to enjoy the sound while these are still around, with larger engines being phased out for smaller turbo ones.

The 3.2 V6 fitted the bill and I soon found myself a 2007 Phantom Black TT, with a decent spec (Quattro, full heated leather, Bose, bluetooth handsfree etc). I fitted an aux in to the BNS 5.0 navigation, as well as cruise control.

The LED interior light pack was next, and I fitted twin boot lights and ambient, footwell, puddle and door warning lights, all coded in as OEM.

Finally, I recently fitted an S-line bumper and diffuser, which really modernises the rear of the car. It also came with OEM parking sensors which I plan to wire in soon, after I have finished the auto-dimming rear view mirror, auto headlights and auto wipers.


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## ReTTro fit

Great progress mate 
Are you Keeping the bumper thing going and facelifting the front too ? 
Skirts ?

I found it to be like an addiction once I started lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

Yep it's all planned haha. Once you start it's hard to stop 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## NickHealy85

I've got a facelifted TTS bumper for sale mate, no longer never have the car. It's orange so will need pairing but great condition.


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## MT-V6

Yeah I saw your advert but I can't really ATM as the paint is the expensive bit. If you still have it in future I'd probably be interest

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## mickee92

My first car was a corsa C!!

Ahh the days haha I thought I was mint with my 2002 blacked out 1.2 sxi with 120,000 miles on the clock and nothing but problem after problem [smiley=bomb.gif] but it served its purpose at the time. 3 cars later and onto the v6 for me too!

The TT does look great in black!!


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## bhoy78

Nice work and the cleanest corsa I have ever seen 8)


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## MT-V6

mickee92 said:


> My first car was a corsa C!!
> 
> Ahh the days haha I thought I was mint with my 2002 blacked out 1.2 sxi with 120,000 miles on the clock and nothing but problem after problem [smiley=bomb.gif] but it served its purpose at the time. 3 cars later and onto the v6 for me too!
> 
> The TT does look great in black!!


Mine was fairly reliable, only time I had anything major was the water pump failing twice. First time round I replaced it before it went, second time it failed on a motorway. But the parts were silly cheap, I did a full service on it for about £20 including oil (only about 2 litres) and spark plugs (just 3 of them)!



bhoy78 said:


> Nice work and the cleanest corsa I have ever seen 8)


Thanks


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## MT-V6

Clearly I haven't kept this thread very well updated, so I'll start adding some of the previous stuff I've done

With the BNS 5.0 fitted from factory with CD changer, it wasn't very suitable for playing music from my phone - Spotify etc. My first dabble with retrofits was an aux input, though I didn't use OEM parts, and looking back I have learnt a lot when it comes to car wiring. I have since removed it for an OEM one, more of that later on










Next came cruise control. Fairly easy, no interesting photos. More details about that here

Several simple light upgrades came after that, including ambient lights in the courtesy light...










...twin LED boot lights...










...front LED footwell lighting...










...LED vanity lights, after having an A1 courtesy car with them fitted. They are quite bright and give a whiter light than the originals, without having a blue tint...










...an LED glove box light...










...and door puddle and warning lights


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## Knight-tts

I've always wanted puddle lights , top work doing it yourself 8)


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## MT-V6

One of the next things I did was to fit rear parking sensors. I was lucky enough to find a rear facelift bumper in good condition in the right colour, complete with the sensors and loom. All I had to do was wire up the module in the boot

Guide to the install

These before and after photos show the difference it made



















At some point I noticed a large crack along the bottom of the windscreen near where the wipers rest. I wasn't sure how long it had been there for as it wasn't visible from inside, but then I realised that it was an ideal time to fit something I had been missing since my previous car: automatic headlights, wipers and dimming rear view mirror.

Not the easiest thing to fit but well worth the effort in my opinion. My guide for that is here

Standard mirror:









Anti dazzle with rain/light sensor in base:









Finally, a bit of interior bling in the form of aluminium trimmed window switches from the R8. I like subtle touches like these, they really improve the look of the interior. Part numbers are here


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## IPG3.6

Ooooh ima need to track me down some of these switches!!!


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## Knight-tts

Me too, I knew we had a lot of r8 part on our cars but never knew that the switches are a direct fit 8)


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## ab54666

Like those switches, is it a door card off job?


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## Knight-tts

ab54666 said:


> Like those switches, is it a door card off job?


Yes


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## MT-V6

Audi direct is probably cheapest, that's what I found anyway. Bonus is that they are also new

There is a similar mirror switch, that was fitted to later MK2s, I'll post a pic when I add the folding mirrors to this thread

I'm gradually catching up with the things I've done over the past few years!


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## MT-V6

I did several upgrades to the wing mirrors. First of these was power folding, useful for keeping them protected. Unfortunately they have to be folded using the switch, rather that when locked. However, these is another retrofit for this which I'll attempt at some point. My guide for this is here










While I had the mirrors apart, I swapped the glass for the anti-dazzle version, and wired them into the rear view mirror. My guide is here










Finally was the curb view feature for the passenger side, when in reverse gear. As far as I know this was a first for the MK2 TT, though I got the information from an A3 forum. My guide is here


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## MT-V6

And a small mod for the passenger door, a locking button. This was factory fitted in some countries and in others, like the UK, a blanking piece was fitted. Not a big deal but why no have the functionality there since it is so easy. It's also quite a long way to reach the drivers door for the passenger, if needed when parked etc. My guide is here


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## Knight-tts

Is the wiring there already for the lock switch on the the passenger side ?


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## MT-V6

Nope but it only goes to the door module so it's not very hard. Just requires the right pins and connector

Nothing is prewired unfortunately


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## tttony

> Audi direct is probably cheapest, that's what I found anyway.


Are they OK dealing with private individuals? Can you get the full range of parts from them?


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## MT-V6

Yep, can order any parts from them. The only issue I've heard from some is the reluctance to sell parts that don't match the cars VIN

I've got to know the guy at mine now and he doesn't bother with the VIN anymore as he knows it's pointless!


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## MT-V6

I fitted electrically adjustable seats, which apart from sounding like a gimmick, offer more adjustment as well as lumbar support. You can also make small adjustments whilst driving, which is (very rarely!) useful










I couldn't find heated magma red seats in good condition at the time, so I ended up buying black ones and swapping over the cushions (which contain the heating elements). This was fiddly in places, but not too bad of a job. The replacement seats also came with the under-seat storage boxes which was a bonus

My guide is here


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## JohnnyFarmer

MT-V6 said:


> I couldn't find heated magma red seats in good condition at the time, so I ended up buying black ones and swapping over the cushions (which contain the heating elements). This was fiddly in places, but not too bad of a job. The replacement seats also came with the under-seat storage boxes which was a bonus
> 
> My guide is here


Hi MT-V6 - I've swapped a worn out set of electric seats - heated & motorised for some newer heated but not electrically adjustable red ones - thought about swapping the cushions but looked really hard - my electric seats had storage but not the new red ones - (love the red seats centre & door cards) - from what I understand you kept the electric frames & put in your red heated cushions any tips?


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## MT-V6

The cushion swap wasn't too bad but aspects are fiddly

Mainly the seat tilt handle, which is a case of just pulling really hard until it gives

Also the manual seat tilt knob and handle were fiddly but not too bad. The electric seats were easier as it's just switches

I did post some info which might help you https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1906219

Also do you mean the under seat storage, or the seat back net? Either way, not can be transferred across as they aren't specific

I'll try and help with any other questions you have. I did it 4 times as I put the old seats back together with the black cushions and resold them to recoup some of the cost


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## MT-V6

I have finally got around to getting hold of a facelift S tronic gear knob to replace to ugly side button one. Not fitted it yet but it looks so much nicer

Typically it arrived with the button pushed in, so for reference here are a couple of good videos to reset it:

Reset the button 



Remove the gaiter


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## barry_m2

I had great fun changing mine.

Whalen I say fun, I mean it was a pain!


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## MT-V6

I'm going to go straight for the cut and screw approach I think rather than the heat and twist


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## IPG3.6

Why I did mine "the long way" I don't know hahahaha


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## barry_m2

MT-V6 said:


> I'm going to go straight for the cut and screw approach I think rather than the heat and twist


Yes, I wish I'd done it that was first. Luckily I saved it and it all worked out well.


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## MT-V6

ianpgonzaga said:


> Why I did mine "the long way" I don't know hahahaha


If it didn't involve removing the exhaust and propshaft I would also do that to avoid modifying it, it's just an awful lot of dismantling otherwise 



barry_m2 said:


> Yes, I wish I'd done it that was first. Luckily I saved it and it all worked out well.


I've read a few posts like that, I also think it is a neater job overall


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## MT-V6

Something I have been meaning to do for a while was to fit the facelift LED number plate lights. I have had various LEDs fitted in my OEM ones but they tend to be very bright, and the sealed unit type are low quality

The Audi parts are good quality and have a nice colour temperature and brightness










However, these are not a straight swap as the connectors are different. Rather than cut the pins off and swap, I made small adaptors










The LED part number is 4G0 943 021 which is fitted to many Audis and so they are pretty cheap on eBay

The connectors needed for this (left to right in above photo) are 8W0 971 832 for the LED and 3B0 972 712 which is the mating connector for the existing loom

I used 0.5mm wire as that is what was originally fitted, though thinner gauge 0.35mm would be fine for the LEDs

8W0 971 832 uses the common 000 979 009 E pin (I used TE 928999-1), while 3B0 972 712 uses 000 979 020 E (I used TE 964268)

The existing connector pin 1 (positive, grey/blue) goes to the LED connector pin 2, pin 2 (earth, brown) goes to pin 1. Normally pin 1 is earth for lights so it was weird that the existing ones were different to that










All fitted. I'll get a night time photo at some point too, though this has already been posted by others I think










Also see an update in this post My Phantom Black V6 Thread


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## MT-V6

*Retrofit: headlight washers (part 1: jets, hoses, reservoir)*

Cars optioned with xenon headlights came with headlight washers fitted, behind the cover caps beneath each headlight. Cars without washers will still have the caps, but these will be plastic welded to the back of the bumper.

They can be seen just below the headlights, when the headlights are removed:










I had fitted the washers and some of the pipework when I fitted the facelift front bumper, but I have only just completed the install.










Parts required:

8J0 955 101 A
Left washer jet

8J0 807 753 B GRU
Left washer cover cap

8J0 955 102 A
Right washer jet

8J0 807 754 A GRU
Right washer cover cap

N 90775801
Washer jet screw (T25)
x4

3B0 955 681 A
Pump

431 955 465 A
Seal between pump and reservoir

Washer bottle for twin pumps

1J0 955 964 F
Hose (~3.6m)

1H0 955 846
Hose bracket for front bumper
x3

Oetiker 16700020
Stepless hose clamp, 7mm width, 0.6mm thickness, 15.3-18.5mm size range
x10

Cable tie mounts
x2

8D0 955 873
T connector (split to right washer)

1J0 955 655 E /
6R0 955 665
Right angle connector (quick release) (bumper to car)

8E0 955 873 /
8J0 955 875 B
Straight connector (car to bumper)

077 133 382 B
Right angle connector (to pump)

Fitting:

With the bumper removed, it will be clear where the washers jets mount and where the pipework clips in.

Each jet is held in place with 2 torx screws:



















The hose runs from the left to right beneath the centre grille. There are some plastic clips built into the bumper (a couple of mine are removed in order to mount the front parking sensors just below the washer covers). The rest is held by metal clips:










If you have bought a complete part with the hoses attached to the jets/connectors, it will fit right in. If you have separate parts, you will need to attach them to the hose. The easiest way to do this is to put the hose in boiling water for a minute to soften it, before pressing in the connector. In some of these photos I had used worm clips, but I have since replaced them with the correct ear type clips. These give a much stronger fit and press evenly on the fill circumference of the hose. An ear clip tool makes this easy:










Once the bumper is refitted, the female side of the quick release connector will be accessible just behind/under the left headlight:










The male end looks like this:










It needs to be fed over the top of the wheel arch lining. I used adhesive cable tie bases to hold it in place:










The washer fluid reservoir needs to be swapped for the two pump version. There is a guide for that here. This photo shows it fitted:










The lengths for the hose segments are:

Pump to right angle connector: 61mm
Right angle connector to straight connector (car to bumper): 1071mm
Right angle connector (quick release) (bumper to car) to T connector: 410mm
T connector to left washer jet: 250mm
T connector to right washer jet: 1800mm


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## MT-V6

*Retrofit: headlight washers (part 2: wiring, coding)*

These instructions may differ for facelift TTs.

Parts required:

1J0 973 722 A
2-pin connector for pump

929938-6
Pin for 2.5mm wire and seal
x2

963292-1
Pin seals
x2

TE 1241374-1
Pin for CECM T11c, pin 8

8K0 951 253
Relay code 643, Normally Open

443 937 527
9 pin relay holder

N 907 327 03
Pin for relay holder for 2.5mm wire (holder pin 2)

N 906 966 03
Pin for relay holder for 4mm wire (holder pin 8 )

TE 160759-4
Pin for relay holder for 1.5mm wire (holder pins 4 and 6)

30A blade fuse

N 907 327 03
Pin for fuse for 2.5mm wire

2.5mm wire
1.5mm wire
0.35mm wire

Fitting:

A new 30 amp fuse needs to be added to the underbonnet fuse box, fuse 6, circled:










The fuse holder can be released and pushed below, by releasing the tab on the far left. The entire fuse box tray can be released by releasing the tab at the bottom:










The back panel of this released holder can be removed, giving access to install pin for the new fuse. There should already be a supply to this fuse, so just add the new pin from the fuse and then reinstall this fuse holder (my wire is the thick red one, ignore the yellow):










The wire from the fuse needs to be fed to the relay. The relay is fitted to this location:










The relay is wired as per the following:

Relay holder / relay:
Pin 4 / 1 > Join to relay holder pin 2, 1.5mm wire
Pin 6 / 2 > CECM T11c, pin 8, 0.35mm wire

Pin 2 / 3 > Fuse SB6 (permanent live) 2.5mm wire. Also joins to relay holder pin 4, 1.5mm wire
Pin 8 / 5 > Headlight washer pump, pin 2, 2.5mm wire










As you can see, the new wires that need to leave the fuse box are: CECM trigger wire and pump positive. These need to be fed out of the large grommet in the base of the holder.

The CECM wire needs to be fed to the area above the pedals. This is covered elsewhere on this forum but the two approaches are either via a bulkhead grommet on the passenger side under the airbox which emerges behind the glovebox, or by modifying the access panel on the drivers side under the scuttle panel which emerges behind the instrument cluster.

The pump wire needs to be fed to the reservoir and to the newly added pump. An earth also needs to be fed through. There is a convenient earth location just beneath the airbox:










The pump connector is wired:

Pin 1 > Earth, 2.5mm wire
Pin 2 > Headlight washer relay holder pin 8, 2.5mm wire

Coding:

09-Cent. Elect

Byte 1, bit 1 - enable 'Headlight Washer installed'[/*]
Byte 5, bits 0-7 - 'Headlight Washer Delay' (default: 20 x 50 = 1000ms)[/*]
Byte 6, bits 0-7 - 'Headlight Washer Activation Time' (default: 28 x 50 = 1400ms) (also in adaptation channel 04)[/*]


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## MT-V6

*Retrofit: bi-xenon headlights with LED DRLs (part 1: headlights wiring, main beam shutters and coding)*

Bi-xenon headlights give a brighter and more focussed beam of light than the halogen versions, and use mechanical shutters to enable main beam. The facelift lights also contain LED DRLs, which deactivate while indicating, and dim for use as sidelights.

However, it is not a straight swap, as the connectors are different, as is some of the wiring. The complete retrofit includes fitting the xenon range module and front and rear suspension level sensors, though these do not need to be fitted for the lights to work. I'll cover the module and sensors in another post as there is a reasonable amount of work involved.

Finally, factory fitted xenon headlights would include washer jets, as described here in part 1 and part 2.

This covers facelift cars fitted with halogen headlights. It will differ for facelift cars due to the different central electric modules.

DRL dimming video: 



Main beam video: 













Parts required:

Pair of headlights (there are many versions of these)
Pair of ballasts (they are the same on both sides, non-AFS LED DRL lights need the 4 screw version)
D1S bulbs (I used Philips Xenon WhiteVision gen2)

1J0 973 835
Mating connector for existing 10 pin headlight connector
x2

TE 2-962915-1
Pins for seal (male)
x14

TE 963294-1
Seal
x14

TE 828922-1
Seal plugs
x6

1J0 973 737
14 pin connector for xenon headlights
x2

TE 963711-1
Pins 1-4 and 11-14 for seal (female)
x14

TE 1394133-1
Seals for pins 1-4 and 11-14
x14

TE 963531-1
Seal plugs for pins 1-4 and 11-14
x2

TE 964285-2
Pins 5-10 for seal (female)
x10

TE 963294-1
Seals for pins 5-10
x10

TE 828922-1
Seal plugs for pins 5-10
x2

TE 1241374-1
Pins for CECM T11c pin 6 and T11b pin 5 (dipped beam shutters) 1mm wire
x2

Wire from each headlight to xenon module:
1mm2 thin wall (x1 per side)
0.5mm2 thin wall (x1 per side)
0.35mm2 thin wall (x3 per side)

8E0 971 841 F
Grommet for engine bay firewall

Fitting:

The first thing to do is make some loom adaptors from the existing 10 pin to the new 14 pin connectors. Some of the pins remain the same, and some differ. Alternatively you could cut the existing connectors off and add the pins, if you are feeling committed!

I have added the colours of the existing wires for reference, and also so you can use the same in the adaptors. Use seals on the pins, the sizes of which are above. Take note of the varying wire gauges:

10 pin > 14 pin
Pin 1, headlight range motor (grey/yellow 0.5mm) > N/A
Pin 2, headlight range motor (red/yellow 0.5mm) > N/A
Pin 3, earth (brown 1mm) > pin 14, not actually needed for bi-xenon, though it is needed for AFS (if you ever upgrade)
Pin 5, earth (brown 1mm) > pin 5
Pin 6, dipped beam (L: yellow/black, R: yellow 1mm) > pin 6, ballast/xenon and shutter
Pin 7, earth (brown 1mm) > pin 7, earth
Pin 8, main beam (L: white/black, R: white 1.5mm) > pin 12, LED DRL/side light
Pin 9, indicator (L: black/white, R: black/green 0.5mm) > pin 9, indicator
Pin 10, side light (L: grey/black, R: grey/red 0.5mm) > pin 10, LED DRL/side light

There is a new wire to be added from the 14 pin connector to the central electric module (CECM):

Pin 11, main beam shutter (L: white/black, R: white 1mm) > CECM

There are also some new wires to be added from the 14 pin connector to the xenon range module, which are required for auto range adjustment in conjunction with the module and suspension level sensors mentioned above:

Pin 1, headlight range motor (L: green/yellow, R: grey/blue 0.35mm) > xenon range module L: 17, R: 15
Pin 2, headlight range motor (L: green/brown, R:grey/brown 0.35mm) > xenon range module L: 19, R: 21
Pin 3, headlight range motor (L: green/grey, R: grey 0.35mm) > xenon range module L: 16, R: 22
Pin 4, headlight range motor (L: grey/black, R: grey/black 0.35mm) > xenon range module L: 18, R: 20

Since I have wired mine in preparation for future AFS, I have twisted together pins 1 and 2 as they are an AFS sub-canbus system. I have also used 0.5mm wire for pin 4 as it is used for the AFS headlight module power supply. This is optional, otherwise wire directly as above.

This will leave you with the 14 pin connector wired to the 10 pin one with a short length of wire (~10cm). Wrap this with cloth tape. It will leave pins 3, 8 and 13 empty, so insert seal plugs into these. There will be 5 new wires from each.










These new wires need to be fed from each headlamp to the area behind the instrument cluster/above the CECM. The first stage is to get them beneath the scuttle panel by routing them through the existing headlight conduit. The left light wires can be fed through this grommet:










The new wires can be seen taped up:










The right light wires do though the existing foam covered part:










The next job is to prepare the panel beneath the wiper motor. Remove the wiper arms and scuttle panel. Remove the bolts holding the wiper motor and linkage so it is loose, but there is no need to remove it. This is a good time to give the area a clean out, and unblock the drain holes etc. Finally, undo the nuts holding the plastic access panel to the bulkhead and remove it. You will now see behind the dashboard!

I used the technique that IPG used here, and inserted a grommet in this panel for the wires to feed through, for both lights (10 wires). Note: if also retrofitting the front level sensor and headlight washer relay, feed these wires through too, giving 14 wires in total.

Mark the area to cut with a Dremel or similar:










Then feed the wires through the grommet and fit the grommet into the panel. It should be a snug fig. It will also be a tight fit with this many wires fed through this grommet:










Tap up the wires, making sure that the grommet will remain watertight, and refit the panel:










Cable tie the new wires to the existing ones and make sure they will not get caught in the wiper linkage:










Inside the car, you will now have something like this to sort out :lol:










Find the two wires you added to the 14 pin connectors pin 11, for the main beam shutters. The left one goes to CECM D6, and the right ones goes to A5. In this photo can you just about make out my wires (white/black and white):










Fit the xenon bulbs into the headlights:










Refit the new headlights to your car. This should now be the bare minimum required to have functioning bi-xenon lights, but don't try them out just yet - leave the headlight switch in the off position. If you turn them on you might encounter issues with flickering of the LEDs and xenon due to the differences in wiring. However, the indicators should work.

Coding:

This is the coding I completed on my TT, though some options will differ depending on the revision of CECM.

Cent. Elect-09

Coding:
Byte 0, Bit 1: Xenon Headlights with Shutter installed[/*]
Byte 1, Bit 5-6: 20 Separate Daytime Running Lights for Halogen-Headlights installed[/*]
Byte 8, Bit 7: Daytime Running Light (DRL) Deactivation while Blinking active[/*]
Byte 21, Bit 0-2: 06 Bi-Xenon Front Light with LED Daytime Running Lights (DRL)[/*]
Byte 22, Bit 1: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) switchable via Menu (see below)[/*]

[/*]










This coding is self explanatory. There are some extra things that can be adjusted, based on personal preference.

In part 2 I will cover fitting the replacement headlight switch with DRL control switch in place of the now redundant manual headlight range wheel.


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## MT-V6

*Retrofit: bi-xenon headlights with LED DRLs (part 2: DRL headlight switch)*

In addition to the DIS option above, a physical switch can also be fitted. In any case, the existing manual range adjustment roller will now be redundant, so since only 2 wires are required, it's a simple job.

There are multiple versions of the switch, depending on whether auto headlights are fitted, and whether a physical coming home/leaving home button is fitted, LHD/RHD, fog lights etc.

Again, this applies to pre-facelift cars only due to differences with the central electric module.

Parts required

8J2 941 531 E 5PR
Headlight switch for auto lights, front and read fog lights, DRL switch, coming/leaving home button, RHD

DRL switch, dash dimmer roller (usually included with the above)

TE 963710-1
Pins for DRL switch connector
x2

000 979 009 E
Pin for CECM T16a pin 10 (DRL switch) 0.5mm wire

0.5mm2 thin wall (x2)

Fitting

Firstly, do not plug in the replacement rollers! The wiring is different and you will damage them. Remove pins 3 and 4 from the 7 pin connector. The new wires to be added are:

Pin 4, earth > this is already earth in the existing wiring, though the gauge is 0.35mm and the DRL switch uses 0.5mm so I chose to replace it. There is an earth point just below the bonnet release handle, behind the trim panel
Pin 5 > this needs to be wired to the central electric pin E10










That's all there is to it. No coding is required

The DLRs need to remain enabled in the DIS for the switch to work.


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## MT-V6

*Retrofit: bi-xenon headlights with LED DRLs (part 3: xenon range module)*

For the xenon headlights to automatically adjust their range, the xenon range module is required. This module controls the height adjustment motors in each headlight so that they can be raised or lowered. Is also allows the 'tourist' adjustment for driving abroad.

The suspension level sensors are wired into it, as well as power, canbus and the headlight motors themselves.

The exception is for cars with magride, which picks up the signals via canbus from the magride module (I believe).

Parts required:

8P3 907 357 B
Self levelling and range control module J431 (non-mag ride version) (note there are many modules, this was the latest revision for my car)

N 106 717 01
Bolt
x2

4E0 972 726
26-pin connector for module

000 979 009 E
Pins
x18

Wire from headlight module:
0.5mm2 thin wall (power, earth)
0.35mm2 thin wall (2x canbus)

Fitting:

The first bunch of wires will be those fed behind the dashboard from the headlights in part 1.

The next is canbus, which you can splice into from the gateway located behind the glovebox and fed across behind the headunit.

Finally, for now, is power and earth.

The module is located behind and to the side of the instrument cluster, which is removed by pulling out the plastic part about the steering column, which reveals the bolts. Remove these and the unit slides forward and out, with a single connector on the back.

There are some threaded holes in the dash structure for the module. I was unable to find the exact fitting of the module (if anyone has photos let me know) but I found that the same bolts the hold the instruments in place work well, those the left one is very tricky to thread.

It is visible on the left:










And a closer view:










Feed all the above wires to it and wire as follows:

Pin 2, powertrain canbus high, orange/back 0.35mm > splice into gateway, pin 16 (orange/black)
Pin 3, powertrain canbus low, orange/brown 0.35mm > splice into gateway, pin 6 (orange/brown)
Twist the above 2 wires together to avoid interference

Pin 16, left headlight adjustment motor, green/grey 0.35mm > left headlight pin 3
Pin 17, left headlight adjustment motor, green/yellow 0.35mm > left headlight pin 1
Pin 18, left headlight adjustment motor, grey/black 0.35mm > left headlight pin 4
Pin 19, left headlight adjustment motor, green/brown 0.35mm > left headlight pin 2

Pin 15, right headlight adjustment motor, grey/blue 0.35mm > right headlight pin 1
Pin 20, right headlight adjustment motor, grey/black 0.35mm > right headlight pin 4
Pin 21, right headlight adjustment motor, grey/brown 0.35mm > right headlight pin 2
Pin 22, right headlight adjustment motor, grey 0.35mm > right headlight pin 3

Pin 23, ignition live, grey/yellow 0.5mm > dash fuse 5. Will already be in use by the redundant halogen adjustment motors so splice and replace the fuse with a 5 amp one
Pin 24, earth, brown 0.35mm > earth point below bonnet release handle, behind panel

Coding:

Though without the level sensors fitted, the module won't be fully functional, you will now be able to access the coding in VCDS as well as run output tests.

19-CAN Gateway - Installation List

Enable '55-Xenon Range'[/*]

Coding the module is self explanatory, just pick the description that matches the suspension and drivetrain of your TT:

55-Xenon Range

Coding:
0000009 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and Front-Wheel-Drive (FWD)[/*]
0000010 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and All-Wheel-Drive (AWD)[/*]
0000011 = Audi TT (8J) with Magnetic Ride[/*]

[/*]

There will be fault codes lists about the sensors and possibly basic settings. Leave those for now. You will also be greeted with the following in the DIS:










If you have magride, I think you will now be done(?).

When you turn on the ignition now, you should hear the headlight motors. If you have the headlights on, you will see the beam dip and raise again, as the module self tests.

You can also run the module output tests. This is what you should see: 




That is all for now, the level sensors will be fitted in part 4, which will allow basic settings to be applied and the faults to be fully cleared.


----------



## MT-V6

*Retrofit: bi-xenon headlights with LED DRLs (part 4: suspension level sensors)*

The suspension level sensors are the final piece of the puzzle into retrofitting xenon headlights with the fully functional automatic headlight range feature.

For cars without magride, the sensors are fitted to the left wheels, and are wired to the xenon range module.

These are the sensors for my quattro car, FWD cars have different sensors part numbers listed.

Parts required:

Front sensor:

8J0 941 273 F or H
Front left level sensor (non-mag ride)

N 106 532 01
Bolt for top bracket (M6x16)

N 102 058 02
Nut for bottom bracket (M6)

4B0 973 712
4-pin connector for front sensor

1J0 906 102
Grommet for connector (8.2x40)

TE 963710-1
Pins
x3

TE 1394133-1
Seals
x3

TE 963531-1
Seal plug

Rear sensor:

1K0 941 273 C or F or M
Rear left level sensor (non-mag ride and quattro)

N 104 301 04
Bolts for brackets (M5x16)
x5

N 105 977 01
Rivnuts for brackets (M5)
x5

4B0 973 712
4-pin connector for rear sensor

1J0 906 102
Grommet for connector (8.2x40)

TE 963710-1
Pins
x3

TE 1394133-1
Seals
x3

TE 963531-1
Seal plug

4B0 971 841 B
Grommet for boot floor for rear sensor

Wire for level sensors:
0.35mm2 thin wall (3x front, 3x rear)

N 107 324 01
Split corrugated tube
2m

N 907 726 01
Push fit cable tie base
x2

Fitting:

Front sensor:










As mentioned in part 1, you will have 3 wires ready for the front sensor. Feed them across to the left of the car, following exiting wire routing. In the cluster of wire around the inner wheel arch, follow the wires through to behind the arch liner. Existing wires are there for the windscreen/headlight washer pumps and fluid sensor, as well as the brake pad/ABS sensors. Remove the wheel and arch liner and feed the cables through. Put them in the split corrugated tube to protect them.

The sensor is fitted as shown, it's a little difficult to work out initially but it only fits in one way. The bottom thread goes through a hole in the lower wishbone, and the nut is fitted from below.

The top is lined up with a threaded hole in the subframe (might need to clean the thread first since it has been exposed - I used WD40 and threaded the bolt in and out before fitting properly).




























Feed the wires down, and use a cable tie base to replace the existing one used for the brake pad/ABS sensor wiring (you will need to cut it off).

Cut the wires to length, cut the tube, and put the connector grommet on. This will be tight, so use a little WD40 to lubricate it. Then add the pins with pin seals to the wires, fit the connector, fit the seal plug to the empty pin, and push the grommet onto the connector so it is snug and relatively waterproof.










Take care when cutting the wires that there will be enough slack but not too much!

The connector is wired to the xenon module:

Pin 1, earth, green/brown 0.35mm > xenon module pin 12
Pin 2, supply +5v, green/black 0.35mm > xenon module pin 25
Pin 4, signal, green/blue 0.35mm > xenon module pin 6

Rear sensor:










The first thing to do is feed 3 wires from the xenon module to the left side of the boot beneath the foam base. This arrow shows the bung in the hole that the wires will feed through:










Remove the bung, put your wires in the corrugated tube, tape up the end and finally feed them through the smaller of the two holes in the grommet. Again, WD40 helps. No need to fit the grommet just yet, but feed the wires through the hole










Jack the car up and get ready to fit the rear sensor, which fits towards the centre of the car.

The holes are present, but the rivnuts will need to be fitted. The lower 3 (red arrows) are easy to access, though the top 2 (green arrows) are a bit tighter due to the driveshaft. I used the method shown in this video, as there is not enough space to fit a rivet tool: 













Then fit the sensor as shown, with the arm pointing towards the wheel:










You should see your wires hanging through, so the next step is to measure out how long they need to be to make it to the sensor. Same as the front: cut them, ensuring there is enough slack for the connector and connector grommet.










It's easier to feed them back into the boot now, so you can put on the connector grommet and pin the connector:

Pin 1, earth, brown 0.35mm > xenon module pin 11
Pin 2, supply +5v, black 0.35mm > xenon module pin 10
Pin 4, signal, blue 0.35mm > xenon module pin 7

Fit the wire seals, put the seal plug in pin 3, and push the grommet onto the connector.



















Feed the wire back through the boot floor and fit the grommet:










Fit the connector to the sensor and fit a cable tie base in the hole next to it to keep the wire secure:










Coding:

There is no coding as such, but you will now be able to clear the sensor fault codes. This will leave the basic setting fault code remaining.

Go through the basic settings procedure, and clear the fault codes one last time. The DIS error should also now be removed.

More info on this procedure is available on the VCDS website: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_TT_(8J)_Headlight_Aim_Control_(Xenon_Plus)

And that's it! Fully functioning bi-xenon headlights with automatic range control


----------



## IPG3.6

Excellent work! i think i will review your coding and pinouts on my setup so i know i've got them wired up correctly.


----------



## SLine_Tom

Is that a reversing CAM in the last pic and if so which one is it ?

Thanks



MT-V6 said:


> Something I have been meaning to do for a while was to fit the facelift LED number plate lights. I have had various LEDs fitted in my OEM ones but they tend to be very bright, and the sealed unit type are low quality
> 
> The Audi parts are good quality and have a nice colour temperature and brightness
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> However, these are not a straight swap as the connectors are different. Rather than cut the pins off and swap, I made small adaptors
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> The LED part number is 4G0 943 021 which is fitted to many Audis and so they are pretty cheap on eBay
> 
> The connectors needed for this (left to right in above photo) are 8W0 971 832 for the LED and 3B0 972 712 which is the mating connector for the existing loom
> 
> I used 0.5mm wire as that is what was originally fitted, though thinner gauge 0.35mm would be fine for the LEDs
> 
> 8W0 971 832 uses the common 000 979 009 E pin (I used TE 928999-1), while 3B0 972 712 uses 000 979 020 E (I used TE 964268)
> 
> The existing connector pin 1 (positive, grey/blue) goes to the LED connector pin 2, pin 2 (earth, brown) goes to pin 1. Normally pin 1 is earth for lights so it was weird that the existing ones were different to that
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> All fitted. I'll get a night time photo at some point too, though this has already been posted by others I think


----------



## MT-V6

SLine_Tom said:


> Is that a reversing CAM in the last pic and if so which one is it ?


Yes it is, it is from an Audi A3 8V. It requires cutting a hole in the tailgate so is not a direct fit, but it has an integrated boot handle which is nice. See my project thread here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1921981


----------



## MT-V6

After having the TT for 4 years I have finally done the rear light earth mod. My left light had no issues at all with the connector, it looked perfect. The right had a slight sign of overheating, nothing major but weirdly inconsistent with the left.

I used the tried and tested approach using the boot earth points.

M5 12mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. I put the nut on the inside of the lamp, leaving the head of the nut on the outside, which is a bit smoother and also protects the thread from corrosion.

The extra earth wire fed through the grommet, 2.5mm wire:










Short length of wire with ring terminal on one end and a bullet terminal on the other:










I put the nut inside the bulb holder:










A boring mod to do but worthwhile in the end, so if you are also putting it off, give it a go


----------



## IPG3.6

What's the risk of moisture ingress with this mod?

I'd probably consider some kind of rubber washer or something to ensure a tight seal from the outside environment


----------



## SwissJetPilot

Not a big risk, since it's a ground not power. But yeah, probably should use a protected connecter especially in wet climates. I did mine years ago and it's never been an issue. The trick is to do both, not just one, and use the earth/ground point in the boot just below it.

























Also, if you're missing the little rubber bumper, which often falls off (many people don't even know it's missing) you can just use adhesive-backed foam tape.

*DIY - Tail Light Stop Buffer Replacement*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1930769


----------



## MT-V6

I'd say very low change of water sure to it being on the base of the light and also a snug fit with the bolt

I was missing a rubber bumper part so replaced it and glued them in place, they aren't going anywhere now!


----------



## MT-V6

Something else I have done recently is to wire my dashcam to the fusebox, and I don't mean using piggyback fuses etc, but actually to an empty slot in the fusebox. This keeps the wiring tidy, but more importantly my inner perfectionist is happy.

My dashcam hardwire kit takes two power feeds (perm and ignition) and an earth. The earth was simple, using a ring terminal it can be fitted to the existing earth point behind the bonnet release handle.

The fusebox was more tricky. I wanted to use fuse spaces that are vacant on all TTs. There happens to be a row of 6 (40-45) that are vacant on all models. I thought that while I was doing the job, I might as well future proof it by adding another couple of empty ones for future mods.

I chose to go with 40-42 being perm live and 43-45 being ignition live.

For 43-45, I spliced from fuse 21 as it has a thick gauge input wire. It was also simple as those spaces take standard pins. I used TE 927831-1 (for 0.5mm wire), seen below circled in yellow:










40 to 42 was a bit harder, as it used a bridge part to supply 3 fuses from one wire, circled in blue above. The part number for this is 1K0 937 524 B, which comes with 4mm gauge wire. I spliced into the supply to fuses 38/47, which is a crimp join on thick gauge wires. You'll need to trace the wires back to find the one:










I used a butt crimp barrel to join the wires nice and securely, wrapped in heatshrink as well as the original tape that was around this join.



















The output wires from the fuses use the same pin as above, so feed those out the back of the fusebox with the existing wires.

With the wires to the fusebox taped back up and the fusebox refitted, you should now have 2 power wires along with an earth. I fitted a 3 pin connector to these, so the dashcam hardwire can easily be removed for any reason without cutting any wires.

I used the connectors:

Male (for car end of loom)
1C0 973 119 B
Pins: TE 963715-1

Female (for dashcam loom)
1K0 973 333
Pins: TE 1-963725-1

Fit the connectors and you will end up with something like this:










I secured this to the side of the steering column so it's out the way:










Now you will have something like this, ready for fuses:










Yellow = ignition live supply
Green = ignition live output
Blue = perm live supply
Red = perm live output

The original kit from my camera had an inline fuse holder with 2 amp fuse, so I fitted 2 amp black fuses into the new spaces.










The camera should now work and you should have 2 perm live and 2 ignition live spaces ready for future projects.


----------



## IPG3.6

Love this OEM + goodness!!!

Doing the engine swaps I've noticed that are soooo many spare fuse locations (in cabin and engine bay) so that everyone's inner perfection can sleep at night. lol


----------



## MT-V6

After struggling with the folding mirrors on lock using the 361 relay method (my door modules just weren't sending the right earth trigger consistently) I wasn't going to be defeated. So with some inspiration from barry_m2 I looked into some other options

Modifying the drivers door module EEPROM using VCP, to enable convenience folding

Enough of the teasing, here is the video 




I haven't seen this enabled on a MK2 TT elsewhere, but luckily the setup is the same across most other VAG cars with 3rd generation door modules, which pretty much includes all 8J ones that support power folding mirrors, I think

As usual I'll put some more info up in a while about the process. This is a coding change only, no hardware, no wiring!


----------



## IPG3.6

Amazing work sir - i think it's time we compile software upgrades as you've done this and i've done the steering rack flash ?



MT-V6 said:


> After struggling with the folding mirrors on lock using the 361 relay method (my door modules just weren't sending the right earth trigger consistently) I wasn't going to be defeated. So with some inspiration from barry_m2 I looked into some other options
> 
> Modifying the drivers door module EEPROM using VCP, to enable convenience folding
> 
> Enough of the teasing, here is the video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen this enabled on a MK2 TT elsewhere, but luckily the setup is the same across most other VAG cars with 3rd generation door modules, which pretty much includes all 8J ones that support power folding mirrors, I think
> 
> As usual I'll put some more info up in a while about the process. This is a coding change only, no hardware, no wiring!


----------



## SwissJetPilot

@ *IPG3.6* - The idea of software or firmware upgrade list is a good one. I'm sure there's a few scattered about the Mk2 Forum so linking them into a single post would be a nice addition.

You may want to touch base with *pcbbc* as he has come up with some firmware enhancements and bug fixes for the RNS-E. I'm not sure what else he's done to be honest, but maybe you guys can collaborate and put something together.

Here's his website -
https://rnse.pcbbc.co.uk/


----------



## MT-V6

Sounds good, this is fairly new to me but I'm always keen to tinker!


----------



## JohnnyFarmer

Had a bit of dialogue with Tim at https://www.advanced-incar.co.uk/ - who is keen to give it a go - They are in Poole - once I get my 8J7 modules this week I'll take a trip down - though my little black boxes arrived from China last week I'd far rather do this with firmware. Tim will see this post as mentions the company - I will keep you up to date with progess.

Of course grateful thanks to MT-V6 and all involved with the retrofit instruction - V pleased with folding dipping chrome mirrors thank you


----------



## MT-V6

It's the same process as other gen 3 door modules, I've seen their video of a Golf etc so it will be the same

I will get around to putting the info on here at some point

Also happy for people to come to me in West London and I can enable it


----------



## IPG3.6

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *IPG3.6* - The idea of software or firmware upgrade list is a good one. I'm sure there's a few scattered about the Mk2 Forum so linking them into a single post would be a nice addition.
> 
> You may want to touch base with *pcbbc* as he has come up with some firmware enhancements and bug fixes for the RNS-E. I'm not sure what else he's done to be honest, but maybe you guys can collaborate and put something together.
> 
> Here's his website -
> https://rnse.pcbbc.co.uk/


It seems with the right hardware (ie. ODIS) that this firmware stuff is very possible. Will nut it out when the TT3.6 is fully serviced an 100% happy.

i think i need to do another engine drop :?


----------



## barry_m2

MT-V6 said:


> It's the same process as other gen 3 door modules, I've seen their video of a Golf etc so it will be the same
> 
> I will get around to putting the info on here at some point
> 
> Also happy for people to come to me in West London and I can enable it


Thanks for doing this earlier MT.. much appreciated.

For those interested I opted for unfold with ignition on rather than door open.


----------



## MT-V6

No problem 

Yes we confirmed both options are possible. Mine are still unfolding when the drivers door is opened but I'll see how it goes


----------



## MT-V6

*How to: convenience folding wing mirrors*

As in my above post, I have now coded my wing mirrors to 'convenience' fold, which is the term I've given it because it is not based on automatically folding/unfolding them based on locking with the fob.

Instead, to fold them, you long press the lock button, whereby they will fold at the same time as the windows shutting (if open). There are two options for unfolding: when opening the driver side door, or when turning on the ignition. Manual control over the mirrors is retained using the adjustment knob.

As far as I know, only 3rd generation MAX door modules support this, which for the TT are the D and H revisions. B and C are 1st generation MAX and do not support folding mirrors anyway. E, G and J are 3rd generation MIN, which support folding mirrors but is unconfirmed whether they support this mod.

I have coded 2 H revisions, one with the unfold on door and one with unfold on ignition.

VCP is required for this. This is a riskier process than your usual VCDS coding, so make sure you are comfortable before continuing.

Firstly, open door module 42 and switch it to 'Engineer mode' with the dropdown in the bottom left:










Then press 'Sec. Access' on the right and use code 04354 which should be accepted. Then press 'Up/Download' on the right which will open the EEPROM editor.

It is advisable to now take a backup of your current coding. Enter 04354 as the 'Login', 0 as the 'Address' and 512 as the 'Size' and then press the blue read button:










Use file > save as, like normal, and give it a .hex file extension. Various free tools are compatible with this, eg I use Hex Fiend on my Mac.

The next stage is to read the specific bytes we are interested in, which is 189, 206 and 223. To make it clearer, change the address to 189 and the size to 48 and re-read:










Now we can start to code without the helpful UI of VCDS :lol:

A bit of background might help: though the screenshot is breaking the hexadecimal string down into blocks of 4, what we are actually changing is blocks of 2. 2 hexadecimal characters = 8 bits = 1 byte. Therefore, byte 189 (the starting one we specified) has value 'C0' is my screenshot. As we asked for 48 bytes, we have 3 rows of 16 bytes. Hopefully this is still making sense...

Slightly helpfully, byte 206 is diagonally down and right, and 223 diagonally down and right from that. All will have the same value.

The next stage is to work out what these values needs to be changed to, which means some binary to hexadecimal conversions. Using a programmers calculator, which the built in Mac and Windows ones both support (Mac in my screenshots).

Enter your existing value, which was C0 on both the TTs I have coded:










We can see here that C0 = 1100 0000

To set the mirrors to fold with a long press and unfold with the ignition, bit 4 needs to be set to 1. The bits are numbered from right to left, your calculator will probably help you to identify them.

So for my module:



Code:


1100 0000 -> 1101 0000
   ^ bit 4

And so the new coding is 1101 0000 = D0

If you want the unfolding to instead be triggered by opening the driver side door, bit 2 also needs to be set to 1:



Code:


1101 0000 -> 1101 0100
      ^ bit 2

And so the new coding is 1101 0100 = D4

Note: enable the bits on your existing byte, and do not just copy mine! The above are examples only of which bits should be set, using the byte from my module. However, I imagine most, if not all, TT modules will be the same.

Now this needs to be saved back to your module. Highlight the first two characters and change them to your new hexadecimal coding. If you don't highlight them before typing, you may end up adding extra bytes to the string. If you make any mistakes, just close the window and re-open and read it again.

Repeat for all three occurrences, setting them all to be the same.

Double check you have only changed the parts you were meant to change, and then press the red save button. This will rewrite the coding to the module, and hopefully you will see a success message at the bottom of the window. All being well, you are now done, so close all the windows, disconnect the VCP cable etc and try out your handiwork.






See this later post on how to adjust the delay before they fold.


----------



## Llewkcalb

Excellent work.

Can you offer some advice on sourcing VCP?

Steve


----------



## MT-V6

Llewkcalb said:


> Can you offer some advice on sourcing VCP?


I got it from Enigma Tool which is listed as the UK distributor https://vcpsystem.com/i20,distributors.html

The website does seem a bit dodgy, but it's listed above and accepts PayPal. They actually used Royal Mail special delivery so I had it the next morning, so can't complain at the service


----------



## MT-V6

When I fitted xenons with DRLs, I replaced the headlight switch with one from an A3 as there are more available than for the TT. The downside is that the main knob was a bland black plastic one, which is a definite downgrade from the TT one with 'metal' trim. There is also a different style, which was fitted to facelift models, which has a glossy black knob with 'metal' trim with more of a satin effect.

The facelift has a few glossy black parts, including the RNSE screen bezel, the edging of the hazard/ESP/spoiler buttons, the mirror adjustment knob, and the rings around the air vents (I have replaced all of these minus the air vents...)

It's a nice little upgrade, though not very easy. This is because the facelift switches are not compatible, and so a little modification is required 8)

So, with a facelift knob purchased, I could begin the swap. The first thing to do is remove the replacement knob, so you have it ready to go. A little force if required here, as it isn't supposed to be removed and there is no access to the clips. I put some info in this thread for this https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1955897

Then do the same for your existing knob. I was originally planning on keeping the more shiny metal piece as I thought I would prefer it, but interestingly there are differences that mean it cannot be directly swapped. A few photos to show the differences:



















It turns out that the satin metal is actually a better match for the existing metal parts though, such as the door grabs, mirror switch, air vents etc

I used a little dab of epoxy when putting the glossy knob back only my existing switch to make up for the cracked original clips, so it's not coming off again anytime soon!


----------



## MT-V6

Not a lot has been done recently to the TT, well when I say "done" I actually mean "finished", as there are a lot of half finished jobs as always!

A small update of a couple more facelift parts I have fitted to the interior.

To follow on from the gloss black headlight switch above, there are also gloss black air vent rings. Those with prefacelift cars might not know they changed, and those with facelifts probably didn't know either. It's the small details that make the difference though...

On the left is the facelift gloss black, and on the right is the prefacelift plain black:










For info, aside from the headlight switch and air vents, other gloss black parts include the buttons below the gear level, and better known is the screen bezel on the RNSE.

I fitted these buttons a while ago for the front parking sensors, but for comparison:










Finally I swapped the wiper stalk. Everything is the same apart from the icons design. Got to keep myself busy in these lockdown times... Top is prefacelift and bottom is facelift:










The next update will hopefully be a little more exciting


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## Knight-tts

Imo the small mods are the best  nice work 8)


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## MT-V6

I have recently fitted a set of TT spec 19"/9J/ET52 peelers, and now the weather has cleared up a bit I couldn't resist giving the TT a good clean and getting some photos. It makes a change from the pictures of my car in pieces, which makes up the majority of my photos :lol:


----------



## barry_m2

Looking good MT


----------



## CurryMan

Very nice, really suit the car in the grey finish.


----------



## gogs

Fantastic work and commitment to the project, you just need a set of sline/tts side skirts to complete the look 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Knight-tts

They look the part 8)


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## MT-V6

Thank all 



gogs said:


> Fantastic work and commitment to the project, you just need a set of sline/tts side skirts to complete the look


Funnily enough I have a pair waiting to be painted :lol: not seen you around on here for a while


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## IPG3.6

Looking mint! Full side-shot required please


----------



## MT-V6

I think I have one from the side, I'll check. The side skirts will help as currently the sides a little high compared to the facelift bumpers. Lowering is on the cards too later in the year


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## gogs

MT-V6 said:


> Thank all
> 
> 
> 
> gogs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic work and commitment to the project, you just need a set of sline/tts side skirts to complete the look
> 
> 
> 
> Funnily enough I have a pair waiting to be painted :lol: not seen you around on here for a while
Click to expand...

They make a difference 
I'm just back on, back in a mk3

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

Another small update for now. I have replaced the rear central brake light with this smoked version. I think it suits the black car and blends in a little more. I'll get some better photos from a distance soon but these will do for moment


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## gogs

Nice :wink:


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## MT-V6

I have a pair of TTS mirror covers to fit now, though I have a project planned for them before I do. Details will follow as I make progress, but for now just a teaser of them in the box


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## IPG3.6

Looks great! can't wait to see your finished mod


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## gogs

Looking forward to this update


----------



## Nidana

MT-V6 said:


> I have a pair of TTS mirror covers to fit now, though I have a project planned for them before I do. Details will follow as I make progress, but for now just a teaser of them in the box


What's the plan with your black mirror caps are you keeping them or selling?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

Sorry I missed your reply. I'm going to keep onto the black ones, I always like to keep my original parts. Are you wanting black mirrors on your silver TT then?

If so sounds good. Mine are phantom black (metallic/pearl) and if going down that route a solid black might be better? Audi call it brilliant black


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## Nidana

That's ok if you don't ask you don't find out. Most on eBay are either beat up or complete units or just wrong colour.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## silvasoul

MT-V6 said:


> Another small update for now. I have replaced the rear central brake light with this smoked version. I think it suits the black car and blends in a little more. I'll get some better photos from a distance soon but these will do for moment
> 
> View attachment 1


thinking of getting this, have you found a difference vs the oem one as to how bright they are?

do you have any pictures with the brake light on ?

regards


----------



## MT-V6

I tried a very dark one and I found it a bit dim, whereas this smoked one seems quite similar to the original. I'll try and get a photo of it lit up, though photos don't often do things like this justice. Viewed from directly behind, the brightness is comparable to the tail lights though


----------



## MT-V6

Over the weekend I fitted the S-line/TTS side skirts that I have had for the best part of a year now! I finally got them painted a couple of weeks ago, and they are now on the car. Not a very hard job, but one that is made frustrating by all the clips that break or get mangled during removal, and add up to quite a cost when replacing them all too 

They make a surprisingly big difference to the look of the car, not a very noticeable one, but it is definitely something that you subconsciously notice. I also really like how the flared fronts match in with the shape of the edges on the front bumper too

There can never be enough photos on this forum, so here is a quick one for now, before I sort through the others I took


----------



## barry_m2

Looking good MT. It is surprising how much of a difference they make.


----------



## MT-V6

And a few more photos from the other day


----------



## Nidana

Looking good all these nice black 3.2's.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

After replacing the side skirts I thought it would be a good time to replace the scuff trims too, as the aluminium strips were quite corroded. I came across this set which I thought were pretty unusual. I'm not sure which cars came with them - I am guessing ones painted in the "Exclusive" colours? Either way, by now my TT is pretty exclusive I think 8)


----------



## Nidana

Yours definitely fits in that exclusive bracket so they do indeed suit it. 
I have 3 favourite VR6's and they are all black. They are yours with your retro above and beyond fits. Barry's and his upcoming turbo fit and then Ian's and his 3.6 swap. Keep up the good work and cracking guides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

Thanks Nidana


----------



## MT-V6

I've made a small modification to my fog grille backing in order to make it easier to get the tow eye in. This has been annoying at track days where they usually want it fitted to the front, where I have to prise the trim out and am left with a gaping hole on that side (probably good for cooling though :lol: )

Cutout for the tow eye thread. This was a tricky angle to get right, and from dead ahead it still looks off even though it isn't:










And with the grille refitted it is pretty hidden, though being picky I am now tempted to paint the crash bar black to hide it more


----------



## IPG3.6

Nice! Very smart mod


----------



## lukeexecute

MT-V6 said:


> *How to: convenience folding wing mirrors*
> 
> As in my above post, I have now coded my wing mirrors to 'convenience' fold, which is the term I've given it because it is not based on automatically folding/unfolding them based on locking with the fob.
> 
> Instead, to fold them, you long press the lock button, whereby they will fold at the same time as the windows shutting (if open). There are two options for unfolding: when opening the driver side door, or when turning on the ignition. Manual control over the mirrors is retained using the adjustment knob.
> 
> As far as I know, only 3rd generation MAX door modules support this, which for the TT are the D and H revisions. B and C are 1st generation MAX and do not support folding mirrors anyway. E, G and J are 3rd generation MIN, which support folding mirrors but is unconfirmed whether they support this mod.
> 
> I have coded 2 H revisions, one with the unfold on door and one with unfold on ignition.
> 
> VCP is required for this. This is a riskier process than your usual VCDS coding, so make sure you are comfortable before continuing.
> 
> Firstly, open door module 42 and switch it to 'Engineer mode' with the dropdown in the bottom left:
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> Then press 'Sec. Access' on the right and use code 04354 which should be accepted. Then press 'Up/Download' on the right which will open the EEPROM editor.
> 
> It is advisable to now take a backup of your current coding. Enter 04354 as the 'Login', 0 as the 'Address' and 512 as the 'Size' and then press the blue read button:
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> Use file > save as, like normal, and give it a .hex file extension. Various free tools are compatible with this, eg I use Hex Fiend on my Mac.
> 
> The next stage is to read the specific bytes we are interested in, which is 189, 206 and 223. To make it clearer, change the address to 189 and the size to 48 and re-read:
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> Now we can start to code without the helpful UI of VCDS :lol:
> 
> A bit of background might help: though the screenshot is breaking the hexadecimal string down into blocks of 4, what we are actually changing is blocks of 2. 2 hexadecimal characters = 8 bits = 1 byte. Therefore, byte 189 (the starting one we specified) has value 'C0' is my screenshot. As we asked for 48 bytes, we have 3 rows of 16 bytes. Hopefully this is still making sense...
> 
> Slightly helpfully, byte 206 is diagonally down and right, and 223 diagonally down and right from that. All will have the same value.
> 
> The next stage is to work out what these values needs to be changed to, which means some binary to hexadecimal conversions. Using a programmers calculator, which the built in Mac and Windows ones both support (Mac in my screenshots).
> 
> Enter your existing value, which was C0 on both the TTs I have coded:
> 
> 
> 
> We can see here that C0 = 1100 0000
> 
> To set the mirrors to fold with a long press and unfold with the ignition, bit 4 needs to be set to 1. The bits are numbered from right to left, your calculator will probably help you to identify them.
> 
> So for my module:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 1100 0000 -> 1101 0000
> ^ bit 4
> 
> And so the new coding is 1101 0000 = D0
> 
> If you want the unfolding to instead be triggered by opening the driver side door, bit 2 also needs to be set to 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 1101 0000 -> 1101 0100
> ^ bit 2
> 
> And so the new coding is 1101 0100 = D4
> 
> Note: enable the bits on your existing byte, and do not just copy mine! The above are examples only of which bits should be set, using the byte from my module. However, I imagine most, if not all, TT modules will be the same.
> 
> Now this needs to be saved back to your module. Highlight the first two characters and change them to your new hexadecimal coding. If you don't highlight them before typing, you may end up adding extra bytes to the string. If you make any mistakes, just close the window and re-open and read it again.
> 
> Repeat for all three occurrences, setting them all to be the same.
> 
> Double check you have only changed the parts you were meant to change, and then press the red save button. This will rewrite the coding to the module, and hopefully you will see a success message at the bottom of the window. All being well, you are now done, so close all the windows, disconnect the VCP cable etc and try out your handiwork.


Good news for OBDELEVEN and power folding mirrors. 
You can do EEPROM coding with OBDELEVEN gen 2 (android only).

I managed to do it and it worked. 
I will do some more testing tomorrow and if anybody interested I will post a guide.


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> I've made a small modification to my fog grille backing in order to make it easier to get the tow eye in. This has been annoying at track days where they usually want it fitted to the front, where I have to prise the trim out and am left with a gaping hole on that side (probably good for cooling though :lol: )
> 
> Cutout for the tow eye thread. This was a tricky angle to get right, and from dead ahead it still looks off even though it isn't:
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> And with the grille refitted it is pretty hidden, though being picky I am now tempted to paint the crash bar black to hide it more


The interesting thing is I don't have that piece on my car at all. I always wondered if it were missing, and now I guess I know--yes it is lol. Because I have the one on the driver's side (well your guys' pax side) but not on the tow hook side. I guess it must have been removed to tow the car at some point in the past... Either that or was removed sometime during service and not put back


----------



## SwissJetPilot

@ *MT-V6* - Yep, a little flat black paint would be a nice finishing touch on and around the bolt hole. Also, perhaps and end-plug (not sure of the thread size) to help hide the hole and keep bugs and critters from collecting inside.

If for no other reason than improved aesthetics.


----------



## MT-V6

lukeexecute said:


> Good news for OBDELEVEN and power folding mirrors.
> You can do EEPROM coding with OBDELEVEN gen 2 (android only).
> 
> I managed to do it and it worked.
> I will do some more testing tomorrow and if anybody interested I will post a guide.


I don't have obdeleven but add the info up, I'm sure it will help someone out. Also, probably a lot more user friendly than VCP



TT'sRevenge said:


> The interesting thing is I don't have that piece on my car at all. I always wondered if it were missing, and now I guess I know--yes it is lol. Because I have the one on the driver's side (well your guys' pax side) but not on the tow hook side. I guess it must have been removed to tow the car at some point in the past... Either that or was removed sometime during service and not put back


I fitted this bumper myself and put the rear blank pieces on each side. Different engines/gearboxes have different combinations I think. As this bumper wasn't ever fitted to the V6, I just matched my prefacelift setup, which did have blanks on both sides. So yours might be correct for the model 



SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *MT-V6* - Yep, a little flat black paint would be a nice finishing touch on and around the bolt hole. Also, perhaps and end-plug (not sure of the thread size) to help hide the hole and keep bugs and critters from collecting inside.
> 
> If for no other reason than improved aesthetics.


Interesting idea. I can't really remember but I seem to remember it being a reverse thread, might be speaking rubbish though... Will definitely be painting it, will probably do the whole crash bar while I am at it, and have the time


----------



## lukeexecute

> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lukeexecute said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good news for OBDELEVEN and power folding mirrors.
> You can do EEPROM coding with OBDELEVEN gen 2 (android only).
> 
> I managed to do it and it worked.
> I will do some more testing tomorrow and if anybody interested I will post a guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have obdeleven but add the info up, I'm sure it will help someone out. Also, probably a lot more user friendly than VCP
Click to expand...

*Here is a short guide on how to do it: *

Use ObdEleven App on Android while EEPROM flashing is not supported for the moment on iOS.

1. Open OBdEleven App and Connect to the car. 
2. Select 42 - Driver Door
3. Select Change Service and select Development Mode
4. Select EEPROM
5. Whenever asked insert login code 04354

We need to change bytes 189, 206, 223. If we covert them in Hex we have the bytes at addresses:
189 = BD
206 = CE
223 = DF

6. For each of the bytes above we need to change it to the new value. So for the first byte in ObdEleven App under EEPROM we put Address = BD, length = 1 and we hit R button = Read
7. We see the result. In my case for my D module was C0. For my E module was E0.
8. Convert C0 to binary (you can use online converters). C0 in binary is 11000000.



> From MT-V6 post:
> To set the mirrors to fold with a long press and unfold with the ignition, bit 4 needs to be set to 1. The bits are numbered from right to left, your calculator will probably help you to identify them.
> 
> So for my module:
> Code:
> 1100 0000 -> 1101 0000
> ^ bit 4
> 
> And so the new coding is 1101 0000 = D0
> 
> If you want the unfolding to instead be triggered by opening the driver side door, bit 2 also needs to be set to 1:
> 
> Code:
> 1101 0000 -> 1101 0100
> ^ bit 2
> 
> And so the new coding is 1101 0100 = D4


9. When you calculate what is the new byte then you add it in and hit W button which is Write. In my case it gives an error message, but the value has changed. 
10. Do the same for the other bytes (steps 6 to 9) to be changed and you are done.

You can a watch a video here.


----------



## MT-V6

I have fitted a front strut brace, that I was hoping to fit with the suspension kit I have on order, but since it hasn't come and I had a track day booked, I fitted it anyway.

A quick and easy job, the most annoying part being removing the wiper arms. I have to slightly rearrange the wiring loom around the ECU, maybe this isn't a problem for other engines?

Anyway, I had the track day at Bedford Autodrome, which is the first time I have been there. I was thinking about which corners I could mentally compare with the ones at Snetterton where I noticed the most understeer, and I have to say it was much reduced. I'm obviously not comparing like-for-like here, but I was trying as best as possible to compare. So anyway, if this was the case, I am pleased with it. It's just a shame it's almost completely hidden once the scuttle panel is refitted.


----------



## qooqiiu

Did you use the same length bolts on the shock mount? It look like you're sacrificing about 30% of the shaft length with the two that are securing the brace that's all.


----------



## MT-V6

Yes I reused the bolts this time, and I'll replace them when I replace the suspension once it finally arrives. The ends of the bolt poke through the top mount and had rust marks, so I could see that they poke through by more that the added thickness of the brace, so I am happy that they are long enough


----------



## MT-V6

Here is something that I started in December and then completely forgot about over the Christmas period, until now  I have fitted an ambient light beneath the head unit, in the small piece of trim above the climate control panel.

It uses the fibre optic part from an A6 door handle (a bit chunkier than the TT ones), with the familiar kind of (dim) LED unit. I modified the unit with a brighter red LED, like I did in my door handles. The hole was cut carefully with a dremel, and also 'thinned' a bit so that the optic sits flush, and then held in with hot glue.



















It was hard to get a decent photo but it gives a nice glow. It is wired into the dash illumination circuit, so only lights with the dash and is also controllable with the dimmer switch.


----------



## IPG3.6

Gives a nice subtle glow.


----------



## MT-V6

Yeah, a bit like the ones in the courtesy light, you don't realise they are they, until you block them off and the ambience is ruined, haha


----------



## Nidana

You kept that quiet at AITP but then with everything you have done not surprised you lost track.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

Completely forgot to be honest, was a bit hectic trying to get the car clean between rain! Though it would be visible in daylight anyway

Not even driven it at night with it fitted yet


----------



## CurryMan

Very nice and subtle interior mod MT-V6.


----------



## MT-V6

CurryMan said:


> Very nice and subtle interior mod MT-V6.


Thanks 

Another couple of updates.

It turns out I finished off my right front outer CV joint at the trackday. It was fine before but must have been on the cusp of failing, as 100 miles or so afterwards, the creaking started, and by the time I swapped it over the weekend it sounded terrible and quite embarrassing in traffic!

Anyway, I knew what to do as it was the same as when I swapped the CV boot (on the other side).

I used a GKN kit (Audi OEM) and it was straightforward aside from having to cut and hammer off the seized drop link.

Nice and shiny:










And I treated the TT to some RS lower arch liners too. I didn't have an issue with brake cooling with my previous setup (drilled MTEC disks, EBC Yellow Stuff pads, RS lower wishbone ducts) but any extra helps.

So a quick swap over of those was done at the same time. Straight swap aside from one of the screw holes doesn't line up with my TTS lower lip, as others have noted in the past.

Don't panic, this was taken before torquing the hub bolt 



















The part numbers are:
8J0 821 191 G (left)
8J0 821 192 D (right)


----------



## armran

perfect guide is very clear, congratulations as always; next week let's see if I have some time to try mine

by chance there is a way to open / close the spoiler via the remote control? I have activated the VCDS encoding to be able to close it


----------



## MT-V6

armran said:


> by chance there is a way to open / close the spoiler via the remote control? I have activated the VCDS encoding to be able to close it


Did you try module 09 byte 13 bit 7? I haven't tried this


----------



## TT'sRevenge

armran said:


> perfect guide is very clear, congratulations as always; next week let's see if I have some time to try mine
> 
> by chance there is a way to open / close the spoiler via the remote control? I have activated the VCDS encoding to be able to close it





MT-V6 said:


> Did you try module 09 byte 13 bit 7? I haven't tried this


Yeah I fiddled around with it myself when I got the car, I actually have the coding set for allegedly lowering the spoiler when the car is locked (by the checkboxes), however this does not work in reality. Not sure if there are other coding options to be set or fiddled with but after changing whatever checkbox it was in VCDS, it didn't work as expected.


----------



## armran

on mine which is a restyling, I activated the coding that allows you to close the spoiler with a key but I would have liked to be able to open it possibly with the remote control but from the tests I carried out it seems that it cannot be done


----------



## MT-V6

armran said:


> I activated the coding that allows you to close the spoiler with a key


How?


----------



## TT'sRevenge

armran said:


> on mine which is a restyling, I activated the coding that allows you to close the spoiler with a key but I would have liked to be able to open it possibly with the remote control but from the tests I carried out it seems that it cannot be done


By "with a key" did you mean by inserting the key into the lock cylinder and holding in the lock position? Or did you mean with the remote and holding down the lock button? Or both?


----------



## MT-V6

I coded this the other day just to try it out, and the coding I posted above works only with the key in the lock unfortunately


----------



## armran

I know this encoding I did it too; I also carried out the coding that allows the spoiler to remain open even when dropping below 80kmh if I opened it manually via a button

unfortunately I think there is no coding that opens and closes the spoiler together with the windows


----------



## lukeexecute

armran said:


> I know this encoding I did it too; I also carried out the coding that allows the spoiler to remain open even when dropping below 80kmh if I opened it manually via a button
> 
> unfortunately I think there is no coding that opens and closes the spoiler together with the windows


How could you code that?


----------



## MT-V6

Also in module 09 byte 13 I think, on post ~2009 cars


----------



## armran

hi, I do not understand why the code 05354 does not accept me; what do you recommend?
[CITAZIONE="MT-V6, post: 9396221, membro: 148050"]
*How to: convenience folding wing mirrors*

As in my above post, I have now coded my wing mirrors to 'convenience' fold, which is the term I've given it because it is not based on automatically folding/unfolding them based on locking with the fob.

Instead, to fold them, you long press the lock button, whereby they will fold at the same time as the windows shutting (if open). There are two options for unfolding: when opening the driver side door, or when turning on the ignition. Manual control over the mirrors is retained using the adjustment knob.

As far as I know, only 3rd generation MAX door modules support this, which for the TT are the D and H revisions. B and C are 1st generation MAX and do not support folding mirrors anyway. E, G and J are 3rd generation MIN, which support folding mirrors but is unconfirmed whether they support this mod.

I have coded 2 H revisions, one with the unfold on door and one with unfold on ignition.

VCP is required for this. This is a riskier process than your usual VCDS coding, so make sure you are comfortable before continuing.

Firstly, open door module 42 and switch it to 'Engineer mode' with the dropdown in the bottom left:

View attachment 445039


Then press 'Sec. Access' on the right and use code 04354 which should be accepted. Then press 'Up/Download' on the right which will open the EEPROM editor.

It is advisable to now take a backup of your current coding. Enter 04354 as the 'Login', 0 as the 'Address' and 512 as the 'Size' and then press the blue read button:

View attachment 445041


Use file > save as, like normal, and give it a .hex file extension. Various free tools are compatible with this, eg I use Hex Fiend on my Mac.

The next stage is to read the specific bytes we are interested in, which is 189, 206 and 223. To make it clearer, change the address to 189 and the size to 48 and re-read:

View attachment 445043


Now we can start to code without the helpful UI of VCDS :lol:

A bit of background might help: though the screenshot is breaking the hexadecimal string down into blocks of 4, what we are actually changing is blocks of 2. 2 hexadecimal characters = 8 bits = 1 byte. Therefore, byte 189 (the starting one we specified) has value 'C0' is my screenshot. As we asked for 48 bytes, we have 3 rows of 16 bytes. Hopefully this is still making sense...

Slightly helpfully, byte 206 is diagonally down and right, and 223 diagonally down and right from that. All will have the same value.

The next stage is to work out what these values needs to be changed to, which means some binary to hexadecimal conversions. Using a programmers calculator, which the built in Mac and Windows ones both support (Mac in my screenshots).

Enter your existing value, which was C0 on both the TTs I have coded:

View attachment 445047


We can see here that C0 = 1100 0000

To set the mirrors to fold with a long press and unfold with the ignition, bit 4 needs to be set to 1. The bits are numbered from right to left, your calculator will probably help you to identify them.

So for my module:



Code:


1100 0000 -> 1101 0000
   ^ bit 4

And so the new coding is 1101 0000 = D0

If you want the unfolding to instead be triggered by opening the driver side door, bit 2 also needs to be set to 1:



Code:


1101 0000 -> 1101 0100
      ^ bit 2

And so the new coding is 1101 0100 = D4

Note: enable the bits on your existing byte, and do not just copy mine! The above are examples only of which bits should be set, using the byte from my module. However, I imagine most, if not all, TT modules will be the same.

Now this needs to be saved back to your module. Highlight the first two characters and change them to your new hexadecimal coding. If you don't highlight them before typing, you may end up adding extra bytes to the string. If you make any mistakes, just close the window and re-open and read it again.

Repeat for all three occurrences, setting them all to be the same.

Double check you have only changed the parts you were meant to change, and then press the red save button. This will rewrite the coding to the module, and hopefully you will see a success message at the bottom of the window. All being well, you are now done, so close all the windows, disconnect the VCP cable etc and try out your handiwork.





[/QUOTE]


----------



## MT-V6

I recorded a quick video today of my new instrument cluster, a 2012 latest revision white DIS version. I've got needle sweep, lap timer and oil temperature enabled, just need to figure out how to remove the redundant boost gauge for it to be perfect.


----------



## CurryMan

Impressive work! Hope you manage to remove the boost gauge icon.


----------



## Nidana

Is this the only downside the redundant boost gauge for us 3.2's with swapping clocks to the appealing black and white clocks other than coding to original keys etc?


----------



## MT-V6

It's the only downside for now, I know it can be fixed, just need to work it out. The whole lap timer screen can be coded out bit I've left it on for now, but you've probably gathered I'm a bit of a perfectionist and it annoys me that it is there, so it will be sorted at some point don't worry!


----------



## Barr_end

Impressive retrofitting work as always!
White clocks are so much better than prefacelift red ones


----------



## MT-V6

Thanks. Unfortunately I can't take credit for doing the immobiliser and mileage coding on this myself, but I agree it's a big improvement


----------



## IPG3.6

MT-V6 said:


> It's the only downside for now, I know it can be fixed, just need to work it out. The whole lap timer screen can be coded out bit I've left it on for now, but you've probably gathered I'm a bit of a perfectionist and it annoys me that it is there, so it will be sorted at some point don't worry!


You should be able to remove the laptimer menu in VCDS. 17 - insruments. and i THINK it's in coding or adaptations. Ther'es a "special functions" menu where you enter in 1 or 0 toactivate/deactivate.

Cluster looks great by the way!!!


----------



## MT-V6

Today I managed to remove the boost gauge while maintaining the lap timer screen with the oil temperature. Everything works properly now, and the top line of the DIS just shows the radio info as on other screens


----------



## Nidana

Want and want and want some more although my options are hazzydayz for this.


----------



## Sarney

lukeexecute said:


> Good news for OBDELEVEN and power folding mirrors.
> You can do EEPROM coding with OBDELEVEN gen 2 (android only).
> 
> I managed to do it and it worked.
> I will do some more testing tomorrow and if anybody interested I will post a guide.


hi any guide available? Thanks


----------



## Nidana

Thankyou for pointing me in the right direction MT-V6.


----------



## MT-V6

Nidana said:


> Thankyou for pointing me in the right direction MT-V6.


Looking good


----------



## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> Today I managed to remove the boost gauge while maintaining the lap timer screen with the oil temperature. Everything works properly now, and the top line of the DIS just shows the radio info as on other screens
> 
> View attachment 480208


You are definitely becoming the new rettroTT
Clever work as ever this


----------



## rasA4

amazing work @MT-V6 just spent some time reading through this whole thread lovin the OEM Plus mods cant wait to get my TT!


----------



## MT-V6

rasA4 said:


> amazing work @MT-V6 just spent some time reading through this whole thread lovin the OEM Plus mods cant wait to get my TT!


Thanks, all part of the fun. It's probably one of the highest spec TTs now, excluding mechanical modifications


----------



## rasA4

MT-V6 said:


> Thanks, all part of the fun. It's probably one of the highest spec TTs now, excluding mechanical modifications


am I right in thinking there are 2 facelift timelines on the TT 2008 and 2010? please delete if in wrong thread


----------



## MT-V6

There was only one, in 2010 I think

Lots of small model year changes though


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> Today I managed to remove the boost gauge while maintaining the lap timer screen with the oil temperature. Everything works properly now, and the top line of the DIS just shows the radio info as on other screens


To be clear, there's no way to add the boost gauge to a car that doesn't have it (but has the white/facelift cluster), right? Or did you do all this by actually uploading different s/w to the cluster? Just wondering if it can be added some how to a TT-S which doesn't have it but I think the answer is the same--you actually have to change the cluster software to do this?

Then again I think the boost gauge is relative anyway so on a tuned car it will max out at peak factory boost instead of your real max boost (granted on a TT-S it's only a few PSI difference I believe)...


----------



## MT-V6

On a white cluster it could be added in the reverse of what I did. I only changed the cluster as I had a red one that didn't support high beam assist

The software doesn't need changing but the eeprom needs changing direct to the PCB via a clip with connection to laptop, can't be done in the car unfortunately


----------



## MT-V6

Not very interesting but adding for information purposes for others. I recently replaced the fuel filter, I do this every 3 years. This time I notices the clamp screw wasn't looking good, and then a few days later there was a thread on here about a rounded one, so thought it would be good to replace.

Part number is N 904 968 02 and this is the difference between new and old:










Worth replacing with the filter to avoid the hassle it could cause if it gets stuck


----------



## SwissJetPilot

@ *MT-V6* - Nice bit of additional information.  I've added it to the post in the KB. Click *here*.
Do you think it might be worth going with a stainless steel equivalent to avoid frequently having to replace them?


----------



## MT-V6

Possibly if you can find one in the right size. Though this one was from 2007 and was about 30p to replace, so it didn't do too badly


----------



## IPG3.6

Nidana said:


> Thankyou for pointing me in the right direction MT-V6.


Now all you need is a cheeky ColourMFA upgrade @Nidana


----------



## JohnnyFarmer

IPG3.6 said:


> Now all you need is a cheeky ColourMFA upgrade @Nidana


Hi Ian - Can you do colour MFA on the red cluster or do you need white - ?


----------



## IPG3.6

JohnnyFarmer said:


> Hi Ian - Can you do colour MFA on the red cluster or do you need white - ?


Can be installed on either  

That's the beauty.


----------



## MT-V6

Not the most interesting update but I swapped my fog light bulbs with some whiter ones that better match the LED DRLs when the coming/leaving home lights are active

In these photos I had swapped only the right side for comparison:



















Less hassle than LEDs and the fading still works when unlocking and when the cornering lights are active. I used Philips WhiteVision ultra H11


----------



## MT-V6

Another small lighting update, this time for the LED number plate lights. I came across a newer part number than the ones originally fitted to facelift MK2 - original info here My Phantom Black V6 Thread

I tried them out of curiosity. They have a more complicated lens and one LED rather than two, but the overall brightness is about the same, as is the colour temperature. So no gain in fitting them if you already have LEDs, but it is another option for those looking to retrofit them. I have left them fitted purely because they are "newer", and are still fitted to some current models 🤷‍♂️

TT factory part on the left of all photos - 4G0 943 021 / A
Newer part on the right - 5NA 943 021




























I looks dimmer in this photo but in reality it isn't, it is just the way the photo came out:


----------



## MT-V6

*How to: adjust delay of convenience folding wing mirrors*

In my original post here I coded the door modules to enable 'convenience folding' for the wing mirrors. This is a useful feature but I always felt that you had to hold down the lock button on the fob for a bit too long. However, I came across this post on another forum.

I had to wait until I had retrofitted the BCM in order to give it a try, and I can confirm it works on the TT BCM (haven't tried all revisions of course but I have tried B and R).

As with before, this is a direct EEPROM edit and VCP is required as VCDS does not have this ability.

The steps are similar to before:

Firstly, open door module 09 and switch it to 'Engineer mode' with the dropdown in the bottom left
Then press 'Sec. Access' on the right and use code 42013 which should be accepted. Then press 'Up/Download' on the right which will open the EEPROM editor
It is advisable to now take a backup of your current coding. Enter 42013 as the 'Login', 0 as the 'Address' and 4096 as the 'Size' and then press the blue read button
Use file > save as, like normal, and give it a .hex file extension. Various free tools are compatible with this, eg I use Hex Fiend on my Mac
The next stage is to read the specific bytes we are interested in, which is 1120, 1121 and 1122. To make it clearer, change the address to 1120 and the size to 3 and re-read:









Now to decide what to change the values to. FF is the original which defaults to 2 seconds, but for other values you need to do the following:
Decide how many milliseconds you want until the mirrors fold and the windows shut. This also affects opening the windows when holding unlock (but does not unfold the mirrors). The number of milliseconds must be divisible by 10
Divide by 100, eg: 1 second == 1000ms/100=10
Convert to base 16. Online calculators can do this for you if you get stuck, or Windows and Mac built in calculators both have a programmers function, eg: 10 == 0A

Now this needs to be saved back to your module. Highlight the first two characters and change them to your new hexadecimal coding. If you don't highlight them before typing, you may end up adding extra bytes to the string. If you make any mistakes, just close the window and re-open and read it again
Repeat for all three occurrences, setting them all to be the same
Double check your values, and then press the red save button. This will rewrite the coding to the module, and hopefully you will see a success message at the bottom of the window. All being well, you are now done, so close all the windows, disconnect the VCP cable etc and try out your handiwork
I had mine set to 1 second for a while but found that if you were a bit slow when double unlocking the car, that I mistakenly opened the windows a little. I have now changed it to 1.1 seconds to see how that goes. It is mostly a case of experimenting to see what works best for you.

I will try and get a video at some point to demonstrate this.


----------



## MT-V6

I was at GTI Spring Fest yesterday and couldn't resist taking the TT on the drag strip. I ended up doing 4 sprints, my best time was 14.45 seconds @ 94.69mph. Unfortunately I was never up against anything too similar, was hoping for another TT or an R32 Golf


----------



## Nidana

MT-V6 said:


> I was at GTI Spring Fest yesterday and couldn't resist taking the TT on the drag strip. I ended up doing 4 sprints, my best time was 14.45 seconds @ 94.69mph. Unfortunately I was never up against anything too similar, was hoping for another TT or an R32 Golf
> 
> View attachment 484945


I've woken up to a sunburnt face today and had a good day my next visit I intend to run mine. It's not going to break any records except to put a big grin on my face like the one clearly in this photo. I will hook up with you so we can do some runs if you like at a later date won't be much in it really except the smile points. You did well on the other bit also when you consider the heavy lump in the front and the DSG box for the garage part. Do wish I had done the service that I've had lined up for Easter weekend earlier instead but never mind. Let me know if you are up for going again sometime and we can sort something out.


----------



## IPG3.6

MT-V6 said:


> I was at GTI Spring Fest yesterday and couldn't resist taking the TT on the drag strip. I ended up doing 4 sprints, my best time was 14.45 seconds @ 94.69mph. Unfortunately I was never up against anything too similar, was hoping for another TT or an R32 Golf
> 
> View attachment 484945


Oooh nice one! 

Hope you were launching it each and every time!!

Oh yeah and spoiler up. I found that helped with my times.


----------



## MT-V6

Thanks both, yep such good fun, just in very limited bursts. Track days are more my thing but I like to mix things up a bit. Granted the 3.2 TT isn't really a drag weapon, but the AWD traction and DSG shift times certainly help

Would definitely be up for another visit and would be a fun challenge against you Nidana as it would be all down to reaction times and the launch

And of course I used launch control  it worked very well 3 out of 4 runs. The one it didn't I suspect the gearbox wasn't up to temperature. The downside being that you have no idea on what that actually is until you try, and it was tugging on the brakes when I tried, but the car was staged so too late to try again. Annoyingly in that run my reaction time was my best, so combined with my best run I'd be a lot closer to 14 seconds

Didn't use the spoiler but I guess it came up by itself towards the end of the run. Every little helps eh?!


----------



## Nidana

GTI fest has another Sunday in October on the 2nd other than the german day in august so can plan for either if you like.


----------



## IPG3.6

MT-V6 said:


> And of course I used launch control  it worked very well 3 out of 4 runs.


I also found this to be the case where launch wouldn't "activate" each time. Do you remember what RPM yours sits at for launch? Mines just above 3k....

Looking forward to the Nidana vs MT-V6 runs!!! hehe


----------



## MT-V6

IPG3.6 said:


> I also found this to be the case where launch wouldn't "activate" each time. Do you remember what RPM yours sits at for launch? Mines just above 3k....


Sorry I forgot to reply to this. Yes about the same as mine then, can't remember if it was 3000 or 3500 

I have fitted LED front indicator bulbs. I like the instant on/off flashing but was always put off by bulb errors/resistors etc. However I came across a nice set by Philips. They do actually come with resistor modules but it turns out they are not needed which is nice. Quick video to show the comparison between the original and the LED






They are Philips 11498XUAXM for anyone interested. Note that the PY21W fitment is specific to the LED DRL xenons variation of the headlights


----------



## Nidana

Cheers MT-V6 have these fitted as of yesterday. Shame I have taken the dynamic mirror repeaters out but just was not happy about the fitment they will have looked good together.


----------



## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> Sorry I forgot to reply to this. Yes about the same as mine then, can't remember if it was 3000 or 3500
> 
> I have fitted LED front indicator bulbs. I like the instant on/off flashing but was always put off by bulb errors/resistors etc. However I came across a nice set by Philips. They do actually come with resistor modules but it turns out they are not needed which is nice. Quick video to show the comparison between the original and the LED
> 
> They are Philips 11498XUAXM for anyone interested. Note that the PY21W fitment is specific to the LED DRL xenons variation of the headlights


It's the small details which make it.
To most I guess this would be no difference, but as you I really like the crispness 
Another item to add to the need to purchase list


----------



## darrylmg

MT-V6 said:


> Sorry I forgot to reply to this. Yes about the same as mine then, can't remember if it was 3000 or 3500
> 
> I have fitted LED front indicator bulbs. I like the instant on/off flashing but was always put off by bulb errors/resistors etc. However I came across a nice set by Philips. They do actually come with resistor modules but it turns out they are not needed which is nice. Quick video to show the comparison between the original and the LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are Philips 11498XUAXM for anyone interested. Note that the PY21W fitment is specific to the LED DRL xenons variation of the headlights


Kudos to your assistant. Unless it was you that stood in the rain while they sat in the car...
I know what mine would say if I said I want a video of my car indicators 😠


----------



## MT-V6

Haha, it was me in the rain, though it was barely spitting, the dazzle from the lights made it look worse in the video


----------



## BauhausBrick

Absolutely gorgeous car mate. Top work!


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> Not the most interesting update but I swapped my fog light bulbs with some whiter ones that better match the LED DRLs when the coming/leaving home lights are active
> 
> In these photos I had swapped only the right side for comparison:
> 
> View attachment 484170
> 
> 
> View attachment 484172
> 
> 
> Less hassle than LEDs and the fading still works when unlocking and when the cornering lights are active. I used Philips WhiteVision ultra H11


I've always wanted to change my fogs to something more matching the xenon lamps, even going back to 2013 when I got the A3 with them (my previous A3 didn't have xenons). But, I never did, lol. The main reason being...basically never use the fogs because they are manual. Unlike other cars I've had with auto headlights in the past, the fogs were able to be set and left so whenever the headlights came on, the fogs would come on. (Note it is perfectly legal to run fog lights when there is no fog/rain where I live, but I know this varies depending on where one is in the world.) But not so with VAG cars, you can't combine auto and fogs in any way--I even fooled around with every coding option I thought might do it but nope.

Also on A3s with halogens (like my previous one) the fogs are used as DRL, but with the LED DRL there is also no way to use the fogs [additionally] as DRL, at least not that I found. I think it's stupid they can't both be used as DRL stupid given it _does_ use both for CH/LH. I had once thought about just wiring up the fogs on relays to be on all the time, whenever the car was on (and back in the car's control when ignition is off)--that will fix this coding nonsense! lol But then I thought with all the complicated electronics and stuff that was just gonna net me some stupid error codes or whatever, so I axed that idea.

On the A3 I did enable fog as cornering light because I don't have AFS on that car; but, TBH it barely does anything anyway. 

So ends up I only ever bother to use the fogs when I'm driving at night and it's raining or foggy, which isn't all that often. They are used for CH/LH though and every once in a while I get the inkling to buy LED fogs, but then there's just so many different ones out there, I just don't feel on researching what's what and what I should buy  Nice to see there are some standard halogen alternatives as well.


----------



## MT-V6

Honestly I only bought them for the CH LH lights, rarely do we ever get enough fog for them to be worthwhile and even when we do they are pretty useless to be honest. I enabled them for cornering lights just because I could, though again I rarely manoeuvre somewhere so dark for them to be useful


----------



## FNChaos

TT'sRevenge said:


> snip-> every once in a while I get the inkling to buy LED fogs, but then there's just so many different ones out there, I just don't feel on researching what's what and what I should buy  Nice to see there are some standard halogen alternatives as well.


Another option, (albeit a bit expensive) is bi-colored LEDs.
Switch from yellow (3000k) to bright white (5500k) or both for a pseudo-halogen look (4300k) by cycling your fog switch on / off / on. You can also get them with a strobe-effect (for emergencies?) but I opted for a set without the strobe figuring I'd be more likely to get in trouble with the law.

See: 






https://deautokey.com/product/dual-color-led-bulb-1-bulb-2-colors-choose-between-a-clean-white-hyper-3000k-yellow-at-anytime


----------



## MT-V6

Some minor bits and pieces I've done recently.

Firstly I have had missing and bent lambda wiring clips for ages. The wires were hanging low and in places were cable tied. Some clips were completely missing and some were loose due to rust. This might be helpful for others, as the parts catalogue diagram isn't very clear. This will different for different engines/exhaust of course










Next I painted a few brackets just to tidy things up, including this brace bar in the engine bay

Before:









After (the type of bolt also changed, maybe due to the spline type holding water and rusting?)









I also did the front brake line brackets after noticing how shabby they looked against the new Bilsteins (more on that to come)


----------



## IPG3.6

look at all those new parts that are coated!!!


----------



## MT-V6

I have swapped my LED bixenons for AFS LED bixenons. This is a kind of "upgrade" guide that can build on my main retrofit guide. I knew I was planning on going this route so I installed the correct wiring in advance, so if you have factory fit bixenons already fitted, you will need to run some extra wires to them. If going from halogen (like I did overall), still more wires will need to be run, read my other guide first. Some changes are required in the dash fuse box.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/my-phantom-black-v6-thread.1505602/page-2#post-9374517

Firstly, these parts are required:

AFS headlights x2 (RHD/LHD to suit your car) - will add part numbers
Ballasts (they differ) x2 - 8E0 941 329 A
Screws for ballasts (if ballasts are not already attached to the headlight unit) x6 - N 903 474 02
AFS module (in order of age, any should work) - 4F0 907 357 F -> 4L0 907 357 -> 4L0 907 357 B
Module connector - 7M3 972 726 A

The AFS headlights have satin silver on the sides of the projector, compared to the gloss black of the standard bixenons.









Here is the standard xenon module on the left, and the AFS one on the right. The blue connector is very slightly different, though the inner black pin holders are the same, so they do not need to be completely repinned.









The AFS module mounted up behind the instrument cluster after repinning. I unplugged the headlights before repinning this, as some power outputs differ and I didn't want to damage anything. I didn't reconnect them until the new module was in place.









You will get this error when you code AFS in the instrument cluster prior to reconnecting the AFS module.









The coding is:

10-Instruments

Coding:
????xxx: Equipment
+0032 = Advanced Front Lighting System (AFS = Cornering Lights) installed


55-Xenon Range

Coding:
0000023 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
0000024 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and All Wheel Drive (AWD)
0000025 = Audi TT (8J) with Magnetic Ride

Note: Perform Security Access before Coding and Basic Setting (Headlight Adjustment) after Coding

Security Access:

02000 = General Coding "Enabling"
02000 > 03000 > 04000 > 05000 = General Adaptation "Enabling" (Enter one after another)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_TT_(8J)_Headlight_Aim_Control_(Adaptive_Light)

The pin changes from LED xenon to AFS xenon are:

Headlight pin 14, both sides > add new earth, 1mm2 brown wire
Headlight pin 4, left > add wire to fuse SC3 (5 amp) with 0.5mm wire
Headlight pin 4, right > add wire to fuse SC5 (5 amp) with 0.5mm wire

Module pin 2 (orange/black) > same
Module pin 3 (orange/brown) > same
Module pin 11 (brown) > same
Module pin 25 (green/black) > same

Module pin 6 (green/blue) > move to pin 21
Module pin 7 (blue) > move to pin 22
Module pin 10 (black) > move to pin 12
Module pin 12 (green/brown) > move to pin 10

Module pin 16 (green/grey) > not used for AFS but can keep in position
Module pin 22 (grey) > not used for AFS but can keep in position

Module pin 18 (grey/black) > remove pin as not used for AFS
Module pin 20 (grey/black) > remove pin as not used for AFS

Module pin 23 (grey/yellow) > move from fuse SC5 to fuse SC4 (5 amp)

Module pin 24 (brown) > remove this earth and add a new earth with 0.5mm wire

Module pin 15 (grey/blue) > remove pin as not used for AFS
Module pin 17 (green/yellow) > remove pin as not used for AFS
Module pin 19 (green/brown) > remove pin as not used for AFS
Module pin 21 (grey/brown) > remove pin as not used for AFS

Module pin 18 > add new 0.35mm wire that splits into two, to both headlights pin 1, twisted with respective wire from pin 19
Module pin 19 > add new 0.35mm wire that splits into two, to both headlights pin 2, twisted with respective wire from pin 18


The headlight vertical height can be adjusted by the adjustor via this hole.


----------



## Robtaylors

Love the retrofit electric seat mod, what was the total cost to do this ?


----------



## MT-V6

Robtaylors said:


> Love the retrofit electric seat mod, what was the total cost to do this ?


I actually made a little money from it believe it or not. Often sellers prefer to sell the whole interior (seats, door cards, centre console). So I sold the centre console easily enough, eventually got a local seller for the rear seats (wasn't easy to shift, they wanted it for a custom hot rod project or something due to being quite small!), and after swapping over my red seat cushions etc I ended up with a complete pair or manual black front seats which sold quite easily (TT seats are seen as an easy upgrade for other VAG cars apparently). So not a bad result. I think it was £250 or so which was quite a good initial price really, but with some effort you get a nice upgrade for little cost


----------



## Robtaylors

Is the front bolster adjustment better ? As with the manual seats you cannot lift the front part of the seat up


----------



## MT-V6

The base has a little extra adjustment over the manual seats. The front can be tilted separately to the rear height

I have long legs and would still like it if the base slid out like some larger cars, but I do find it comfortable overall

The lumbar support is also nice (if you don't have it already as some manual seats still have electric lumbar controls)


----------



## Robtaylors

Do you find it much better over the manual seats, I don’t have lumbar either just basic manual adjustment


----------



## MT-V6

Not sure I'd say "much" better but it definitely is better. I'm tall so my seat height is all the way down, seat pushed back as far as it will go before touching the rear bench

The front height adjustment helps here as with the seat down, I can put the front up a bit to support my legs better

I only found this out after fitting them, it was an option my car was missing so of course it had to be done


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> The base has a little extra adjustment over the manual seats. The front can be tilted separately to the rear height
> 
> I have long legs and would still like it if the base slid out like some larger cars, but I do find it comfortable overall
> 
> The lumbar support is also nice (if you don't have it already as some manual seats still have electric lumbar controls)


Ever interesting the number of retrofits you've done! I think eventually you'll have added every possible option to the car and then some...if you're not there already 😁

Did you ever think of using seats from another car though? Like say an 8V/8S MQB car or an S4?

Quick question if you remember changing your CV (mentioned earlier in the thread). When I pulled the axle bolt on my car (changing struts) I had CV grease...come out with the axle nut, like from the centre of the CV where it's threaded! Like a big glob of it. The boot is intact. I've pulled various axle nuts over the years (including on the other car) but this is a first--I don't really recall grease ever coming from there? Then again I've never tried to rebuild one of these "bolt goes in the axle" CVs to know if the grease can actually come out of there normally somehow. I've yet to pull the inner bolts to remove and check the whole axle more carefully (will do so this evening) but that doesn't seem right, does it? lol

_Edit: Well to answer my own question, looks like this is completely normal. The way they make the axles is the threaded portion goes straight through into the CV. I'm guessing the grease might be injected that way during manufacturing. Was probably just some grease on the end being "pressurised" due to the CV pos'n and that's why a glob oozed out. Interestingly, seems if one needed to add grease to a outer CV (say one of their boot clamps failed and they needed to replace) they could just pull the axle nut afterwards and pump grease in there, instead of dealing with a big mess to get the grease in otherwise._


----------



## MT-V6

I have considered other seats, I like the MK3 supersports actually (aside from the notorious plastic trim issue). Something with a bit more support would help (I track the TT once or twice a year)

Regarding the hub bolt issue, even though you have answered yourself, just to confirm it is normal. It does seem a bit weird as the grease could interfere with the torque setting I would have thought, but then again at 200Nm + 180 degrees, not a lot is going to lose that


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> I have considered other seats, I like the MK3 supersports actually (aside from the notorious plastic trim issue). Something with a bit more support would help (I track the TT once or twice a year)
> 
> Regarding the hub bolt issue, even though you have answered yourself, just to confirm it is normal. It does seem a bit weird as the grease could interfere with the torque setting I would have thought, but then again at 200Nm + 180 degrees, not a lot is going to lose that


Yeah I wonder...do the Mk3 seats will go in with no modifications? I think someone has done it right?

Yeah the axle bolt is some crazy torque spec haha. When I installed the KWs on the A3, I went to like 100-some-odd degrees and called it a day  Nowadays I have a bunch of different impacts though...I could put the 150lb*ft on it and then put it on the ground and see how far I can get, then hit it with the impact to turn it the rest of the way. I mean it's not gonna be a smooth movement but I'm sure the high torque'll get it there no problem; not like this is cylinder head bolts or anything. Only thing is the only socket (12pt) I have that fits is imperial (so not exactly the right size) and chrome (not a good idea on an impact though I did use it to take them out lol).

Interesting thing about that bolt is there have been three types, all which have different torque specs. The hex bolt, the 12pt with ribs, and the 12pt w/o ribs (smooth). It's the 12pt smooth that is the current or most up-to-date part you get from the dealer, which means you need the 200N*m (148lb*ft) + 180 deg. business.


----------



## MT-V6

Exactly that. I managed to find a 12 point impact socket but then the aftermarket CV lot I bought came with an Allen head so didn't need it. I plan on replacing that bolt because I'm a bit weird like that. My 2007 TT came with 6 point hex with a free spinning incorporated washer, so add that to the list of types, but yes the mega torque ones are the latest supersession


----------



## MT-V6

After the Yellow Stuff pads served me well I have moved up a notch and gone for Blue Stuff this time around. I have Donington coming up so will see how they perform there. It will also be my first time with the Bilstein B12s fitted


----------



## Robtaylors

What’s the ride like on the Bilsteins and what did you pay for them if you don’t mind me asking


----------



## MT-V6

Robtaylors said:


> What’s the ride like on the Bilsteins and what did you pay for them if you don’t mind me asking


The ride is definitely firmer, no denying that. However the damping is very good, it doesn't shake around but if course do do feel bumps more. It doesn't particularly lower the car as it is more of a "drivers" kit than a "show" kit. I love in the city and it handles poor roads well, speed bumps aren't a problem. I find it is more comfortable at higher speeds than crawling around, the bumps are absorbed better. Looking forward to getting it on track, it corners much flatter

As for the price I bought them new, most sellers have similar prices. Be prepared for a potentially long wait, mine took a few months to arrive as they are made to order in Germany, same case with another member on here


----------



## Robtaylors

MT-V6 said:


> The ride is definitely firmer, no denying that. However the damping is very good, it doesn't shake around but if course do do feel bumps more. It doesn't particularly lower the car as it is more of a "drivers" kit than a "show" kit. I love in the city and it handles poor roads well, speed bumps aren't a problem. I find it is more comfortable at higher speeds than crawling around, the bumps are absorbed better. Looking forward to getting it on track, it corners much flatter
> 
> As for the price I bought them new, most sellers have similar prices. Be prepared for a potentially long wait, mine took a few months to arrive as they are made to order in Germany, same case with another member on here


Did these replace magride setup ?


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> After the Yellow Stuff pads served me well I have moved up a notch and gone for Blue Stuff this time around. I have Donington coming up so will see how they perform there. It will also be my first time with the Bilstein B12s fitted


Blue Stuff eh? I didn't even know they had a blue...and as we should know I'm all about blue things LOL. I knew about red, yellow, green...is blue new?

Also I don't even see a listing for the TT (be it S/3.2L or otherwise) for these. What was the P/N? 

I see they do have a listing for the Q7 (which will fit my 18Zs on the A3) but these seem super pricey too--I'm seeing nearly $290 CAD for Blue Stuff pads for Q7/18Z  and that's an alleged "clearance" price lol (reg. price is $100 _more_). Then again 18Z pads aren't too cheap in general, usually hovering around $200 USD.

More out of curiosity though, I only put new pads on the TT when I got it and the A3 I'm gonna live with the dusty Hawk HPS until they wear out...which may not be for another 3-5yrs or so in my case. 

Oh also side note: I did get the full 180 deg on those axle bolts, heh. I had to put a pipe on my breaker and jump on it a few times, but it got there  Thought I was gonna snap the drive bit on the breaker for sure but it held up!


----------



## MT-V6

Robtaylors said:


> Did these replace magride setup ?


Nope but there would be no difference except needing the magride dongles for the damper connectors


----------



## MT-V6

TT'sRevenge said:


> Blue Stuff eh? I didn't even know they had a blue...and as we should know I'm all about blue things LOL. I knew about red, yellow, green...is blue new?
> 
> Also I don't even see a listing for the TT (be it S/3.2L or otherwise) for these. What was the P/N?
> 
> I see they do have a listing for the Q7 (which will fit my 18Zs on the A3) but these seem super pricey too--I'm seeing nearly $290 CAD for Blue Stuff pads for Q7/18Z  and that's an alleged "clearance" price lol (reg. price is $100 _more_). Then again 18Z pads aren't too cheap in general, usually hovering around $200 USD.
> 
> More out of curiosity though, I only put new pads on the TT when I got it and the A3 I'm gonna live with the dusty Hawk HPS until they wear out...which may not be for another 3-5yrs or so in my case.
> 
> Oh also side note: I did get the full 180 deg on those axle bolts, heh. I had to put a pipe on my breaker and jump on it a few times, but it got there  Thought I was gonna snap the drive bit on the breaker for sure but it held up!


The blue are above yellow but the new NDX ones have the same cold temperature effectiveness. Then above that is orange but they are not really for road use, not legally anyway

Part number is DP51946NDX

Good job on the hub bolts


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> The blue are above yellow but the new NDX ones have the same cold temperature effectiveness. Then above that is orange but they are not really for road use, not legally anyway
> 
> Part number is DP51946NDX
> 
> Good job on the hub bolts


Ah yeah I can see them by the part# though strangely no sites are listing them via application lookup. EBC official site is also "down for maintenance" yesterday and today--so couldn't see on there.

I doubt I'll ever have to replace the brakes on the TT--with the amount driven and the amount I wear brakes I'm thinking like 10 years lol--but if I ever decide to go to a track day or do some auto-x or something, these seem like a good choice. These are not low dusting though, so probably like the Hawk HPS in that regard--but them's the breaks (pardon the pun) with more performance oriented pads. 

The good thing about the A3 is both sets of wheels are black so you really can't notice the dust that much, but man the HPS dust quite a ton. I just have some PowerStop Z26 or whatever on the TT. They're marketed as "street performance" but they're def. nothing you'd want to take to track or HPDE, auto-X, etc. But they work very well in normal road use and don't seem to dust too much so good for me


----------



## MT-V6

Yellow stuff were supposedly low dust but they still created a lot. Like you say, an unfortunate side effect of performance pads


----------



## MT-V6

Continuing to retrofit the final few options my car is missing, I have fitted the passenger footwell net. Probably not very useful but even so, I thought why not?

The part number is:
8J2 861 690 6PS - right hand drive/net in left footwell
8J1 861 690 6PS - left hand drive/net in right footwell

Firstly pop out the oval cap and remove the 8mm bolt of the lower trim piece









Then to get measuring. Many thanks to SwissJetPilot for providing me with the factory measurements from his car. From the base of the centre console trim piece to the top of the net/plastic frame "ridge" is 2cm. From the gap in the centre console trim piece (just out of shot, alongside the seat) to the trailing edge of the net frame is 21.5cm. I used masking tape along the rough area so that I could align the net and push the split pins into the tape to make out where they locate









Here you can make out the pierced parts









Remove the rest of the centre console lower trim. It is clipped in and it comes off nice and easily









Unfortunately the split pins are not sharp enough to pierce the carpet, so that will need to be done manually. I used a sharp pick and pierced the carpet at each point. This created enough of a hole for the split pins to be able to push through









Test fitted with masking tape still in place









Remove the masking tape, and don't lose where the holes are as they are difficult to see! Fold the split pins over. I used a flat screwdriver to help and a steel rule to push them against as it is hard to have enough space with your hand down behind the carpet to use pliers etc for this. I put some cloth tape over the flattened pins just so there isn't a sharp edge if I am to put my hard down there again in future 









The finished article in all it's netted glory


----------



## IPG3.6

ooooh extra storage is ALWAYS welcome! never knew the Mk2 even had these. Might consider them

ps. what is the part number for the little oval screw cover? Mine are missing


----------



## Llewkcalb

MT-V6 said:


> The part number is:
> 8J2 861 690 6PS - right hand drive/net in left footwell


Can I ask what you paid and where you got the net?

I checked Llparts and it shows as £28+pp

Thanks


----------



## Nidana

Thankyou for both the part number and how it is installed. It’s the only part missing from the luggage extra.


----------



## MT-V6

IPG3.6 said:


> ps. what is the part number for the little oval screw cover? Mine are missing


It is 8J0 863 751 A 6PS which is for both sides and is "soul"/black



Llewkcalb said:


> Can I ask what you paid and where you got the net?
> 
> I checked Llparts and it shows as £28+pp


Yep that's right. I found a couple over tie on eBay and they were the same price so might as well just get new


Nidana said:


> Thankyou for both the part number and how it is installed. It’s the only part missing from the luggage extra.


No problem. A bit fiddly but overall not too bad


----------



## MT-V6

I recently took the TT to Donington Park, and my first time at that circuit. It was very warm but the TT was faultless. First proper track session on the Bilstein B12s and the Bluestuff pads on the front that I fitted a few weeks ago. I also had a fast road/track custom alignment done just before, and the TT handled great. Can get a lot more power down through the corners. I had ESP/traction fully off all day, it just gripped so well

A few photos









































































Next up is new discs on the rear, got some Brembos to put on. Also going to get Bluestuff for the rear as still running OE pads which are pretty low now. Will post about that at the time. Looking at rear anti roll bars now too, thinking of getting the Whiteline one


----------



## IPG3.6

Awesome pics!!! Scrolling through the pics and when i got to the 6th one i thought "i think he needs rear swaybar done. is it done? don't thinik so..." then i read the closing paragraph and you answered my question.

You'll feel way surer of yourself once upgraded. This turn looks similar (it's like a 60 degree angle - looks similar to the one in pic 6) and you'll notice not much body roll (pic also links to video). I highly recommend!


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> View attachment 490339


Of all the things you've retrofitted to this car and you're missing the 3.2 badge? LOL, just playing with you  

The track alignment looks really cool!

The floor cargo nets...man I never even noticed if I have that/those or not haha. My first A3 did not have them and my second does but only on the pax side. I'm not even sure if my TT has either, gonna go and look. I don't think it does. They look nice but don't think I've ever used mine for anything. The seatback ones I keep folded up paper towels in, in case of any spills or having to wipe anything. Or in the case of the TT, the stupid window smearing lol.


----------



## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> I also had a fast road/track custom alignment done just before, and the TT handled great.
> View attachment 490344


Suspension secrets?
Looks like a lovely set up regardless
Be interested to know what they some of the alignment specs to if you had the information?




MT-V6 said:


> View attachment 490340
> 
> 
> Next up is new discs on the rear, got some Brembos to put on. Also going to get Bluestuff for the rear as still running OE pads which are pretty low now. Will post about that at the time. Looking at rear anti roll bars now too, thinking of getting the Whiteline one



Holy roll batman  Full sends!
I think I'm right in saying that the B12 are non adjustable dampening? - the softer road set so lower dampening and spring rates? So not alot you can really do about it!
100% do the rear roll bar - makes a massive difference/improvement & I also recommend getting a front strut brace too

Keep up the good work and the track sends!


----------



## IPG3.6

TT'sRevenge said:


> The seatback ones I keep folded up paper towels in, in case of any spills or having to wipe anything.


You can get seat back pockets? ooooh i need these! wonder how they're fitted on.


----------



## TT'sRevenge

IPG3.6 said:


> You can get seat back pockets? ooooh i need these! wonder how they're fitted on.


Hmm they are part of the seatback, but similar to above. The seatbacks, which as you might know, are a real pain to work with should they ever come off or "loosen" over time. Given MT-V6 was able to retrofit the just the net on his console there, it might be possible to retrofit just the net (rather than the whole seatback, with the net pockets) the same way. But, if you have to remove the seatback to do so...I think that will open up a can of worms you don't really want to!


----------



## IPG3.6

TT'sRevenge said:


> Hmm they are part of the seatback, but similar to above. The seatbacks, which as you might know, are a real pain to work with should they ever come off or "loosen" over time. Given MT-V6 was able to retrofit the just the net on his console there, it might be possible to retrofit just the net (rather than the whole seatback, with the net pockets) the same way. But, if you have to remove the seatback to do so...I think that will open up a can of worms you don't really want to!


Noted. 

Source seats with nets... Somehow...


----------



## MT-V6

IPG3.6 said:


> Awesome pics!!! Scrolling through the pics and when i got to the 6th one i thought "i think he needs rear swaybar done. is it done? don't thinik so..." then i read the closing paragraph and you answered my question.





Barr_end said:


> I think I'm right in saying that the B12 are non adjustable dampening? - the softer road set so lower dampening and spring rates? So not alot you can really do about it!
> 100% do the rear roll bar - makes a massive difference/improvement & I also recommend getting a front strut brace too


Yes the B12s are non-adjustable, more of a sports setup than full on track, though despite the roll the car handles nicely on them without much sacrifice to road comfort

Rear roll bar will be coming up before I go on track again, already have a front strut brace fitted though can't say it has been an obvious improvement. Part of the bigger picture of improvements though My Phantom Black V6 Thread



TT'sRevenge said:


> Of all the things you've retrofitted to this car and you're missing the 3.2 badge? LOL, just playing with you


I have considered it, most seem to not have that badge. I've not seen anything official about it, so not sure how it worked when new?



Barr_end said:


> Suspension secrets?
> Looks like a lovely set up regardless
> Be interested to know what they some of the alignment specs to if you had the information?


Kent Motorsport in Orpington. Don't think he deals with many VAG cars as the TT seemed quite new, but he knows his stuff. Also a lot of "hands on" which I liked as I enjoy working on the car, so learnt a lot too. Fortunately everything was nice and easy due to my replacement of the rear suspension arms recently

1 degree toe out on the fronts and 1.5 degrees toe in on the rears. I don't have camber adjustment as running OEM top mounts. I have a feeling it is adjustable on the rear with the top control arms concentric bolts? But basically inaccessible so not sure how that would be done... The top control arms were the only ones I didn't replace due to this (I did lower spring mounts, lower control arms and the trailing arms). Subframe off job I think...?



Barr_end said:


> Keep up the good work and the track sends!


Sure will, it's addictive as you know! Would be cool to have a TT meet up on track one day



IPG3.6 said:


> You can get seat back pockets? ooooh i need these! wonder how they're fitted on.





TT'sRevenge said:


> Hmm they are part of the seatback, but similar to above. The seatbacks, which as you might know, are a real pain to work with should they ever come off or "loosen" over time. Given MT-V6 was able to retrofit the just the net on his console there, it might be possible to retrofit just the net (rather than the whole seatback, with the net pockets) the same way. But, if you have to remove the seatback to do so...I think that will open up a can of worms you don't really want to!


Yeah the nets are part of the rear trim and cannot be bought separately (the whole seat back can). Personally I don't find it hard to get the back off, this should help along with photos of the donor seat net How to: Removing Seat Padding and Covers


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> I have considered it, most seem to not have that badge. I've not seen anything official about it, so not sure how it worked when new?


You know what, you're right, they didn't. I guess I just assumed it was like A3 3.2s which do have the 3.2 badge on them above the quattro. Looking back at an old review of the 3.2L TT, it def. did not have the badge. Weird. I mean yeah I guess one could add it but it wasn't supposed to be there to begin with...



MT-V6 said:


> Yeah the nets are part of the rear trim and cannot be bought separately (the whole seat back can). Personally I don't find it hard to get the back off, this should help along with photos of the donor seat net How to: Removing Seat Padding and Covers


Oh I see, maybe that's also something a little different on the TT. How about getting it back on though, do you have to like glue it and use clamps and stuff?


----------



## MT-V6

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh I see, maybe that's also something a little different on the TT. How about getting it back on though, do you have to like glue it and use clamps and stuff?


Nope just clips. The leather has a plastic ridge sewn in, which pushes into a groove in the plastic seat back. The seat back itself has 2 pop clip type things at the bottom, which are nicer than many others in the car (are also replaceable separately if they do break)


----------



## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> Yes the B12s are non-adjustable, more of a sports setup than full on track, though despite the roll the car handles nicely on them without much sacrifice to road comfort
> 
> Rear roll bar will be coming up before I go on track again, already have a front strut brace fitted though can't say it has been an obvious improvement. Part of the bigger picture of improvements though My Phantom Black V6 Thread
> 
> Kent Motorsport in Orpington. Don't think he deals with many VAG cars as the TT seemed quite new, but he knows his stuff. Also a lot of "hands on" which I liked as I enjoy working on the car, so learnt a lot too. Fortunately everything was nice and easy due to my replacement of the rear suspension arms recently
> 
> 1 degree toe out on the fronts and 1.5 degrees toe in on the rears. I don't have camber adjustment as running OEM top mounts. I have a feeling it is adjustable on the rear with the top control arms concentric bolts? But basically inaccessible so not sure how that would be done... The top control arms were the only ones I didn't replace due to this (I did lower spring mounts, lower control arms and the trailing arms). Subframe off job I think...?
> 
> Sure will, it's addictive as you know! Would be cool to have a TT meet up on track one day


Sounds like they deliver exactly what you are after then!
Roll bar is certainly a good idea, however I am surprised on your feedback of feel regarding the strut brace - I clearly didn't spot the post you fitted it on.

Oh that's not overly far away, might be something I can look into
Isn't it such a difference when it's all nice and fresh!
Same for mine, just a bit of a pain to get at the camber bolts size wise with sausage hands - but it's not overly hard - all got done when I polybushed the rear
I'm guessing that you mean 1mm of toe out - around 7 minutes - 1 degree would be savage!

It is certainly addictive and that would be a real mint idea!


----------



## MT-V6

The main issue was getting the TT on the lift, he didn't know where to put the front arms so we settled on the chunky lower wishbone mounts, I'm sure you know the ones. Next time will print out the images on this forum for correct placement

I'm amazed you could get to those camber ones, I do have big hands but I saw no clear way. I was also paranoid I'd slacken it and then not be able to tighten it again 

Yes my bad, my measurements were in mm, will correct the post! Or 6 and 9 minutes

The trouble I have is that now I wan't more power, but I don't want to replace the V6. Supercharger is being seriously considered... but I'd want to do it myself, but not really any "kit" of parts such as bracketry etc which I'd struggle with. Supercharger temps me more than a turbo


----------



## Barr_end

with all th


MT-V6 said:


> The main issue was getting the TT on the lift, he didn't know where to put the front arms so we settled on the chunky lower wishbone mounts, I'm sure you know the ones. Next time will print out the images on this forum for correct placement
> 
> I'm amazed you could get to those camber ones, I do have big hands but I saw no clear way. I was also paranoid I'd slacken it and then not be able to tighten it again
> 
> Yes my bad, my measurements were in mm, will correct the post! Or 6 and 9 minutes
> 
> The trouble I have is that now I wan't more power, but I don't want to replace the V6. Supercharger is being seriously considered... but I'd want to do it myself, but not really any "kit" of parts such as bracketry etc which I'd struggle with. Supercharger temps me more than a turbo


That's where I always put my axle stands after I've jacked mine up - certainly is solid enough!
Can't remember which way round it is, I think it's spanner on the front side, ratchet on the rear - it is a pain because of the fuel tank but it certainly is doable!

After helping a friend with all the hardware side of things, supercharge is mk4 R32 and for the last 2 years since due to mapping issues - it never being right, it still isn't right either.
Then all of his R32 buddies who have done the same, slowly admitting they have also had constant little issues too, charging it is not worth it - in my opinion

Go turbo if you are going to add boost, but he has always said he ruined it, went from sending it round track to being a driveway ornament from piling alot of money at it.
You can also go turbo cheaper than going supercharge if you do some research into possible parts used.


----------



## IPG3.6

I think the main thing is driveability. You're into trackwork and with the right setup the extra turbo power will be lots of fun however the big mistake people make is that they want ALL the power but then it becomes too hard to handle on the track - especially with turbo lag. Gotta find the Goldilocks snail  

I think, knowing how you use your car, the SC option is awesome! Plenty of kits are out there for the 3.2 (USA rotrex? Or are they English?, Germany check out Carlicious). Putting it together would be the "relatively simple" part of the picture. It's tuning that'll get most places - especially if you wish to stick with OEM ECU. Aftermarket ECU'S are way smarter and sensitive so that's probably what you'd want to consider. 

I know a few ppl in the UK who have successfully turbocharged their 3.2's, all with different setups, so if you need to contact them shoot me a PM


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> The trouble I have is that now I wan't more power, but I don't want to replace the V6. Supercharger is being seriously considered... but I'd want to do it myself, but not really any "kit" of parts such as bracketry etc which I'd struggle with. Supercharger temps me more than a turbo


Both of these things are pretty darn expensive on the 3.2L but I think doing a supercharger is the harder of the two to do, without a kit. Physical install of turbo(s) is relatively straightforward, a supercharger seems (at least to me) much more involved and difficult to accomplish with no kit stuff. Are there actually any S/C kits for the 3.2L? 

I once thought about getting a 3.2L and turbo'ing it, _with_ a kit, but then I was like hmm this is gonna cost more than the car will cost me so I nixed that idea pretty quick lol. But any car that's built up like that is likely gonna cost more money in mods than the car costs, when we're talking about cars this old anyway.

It's certainly not impossible but sounds like a challenge for sure--would love to see how that evolves if you get into it


----------



## IPG3.6

That's the thing. Do you upgrade the car you've got Or go out and get something else newer and shinier and probably costs just as much as upgrading... Mk3 RS @MT-V6 ? 😉


----------



## MT-V6

Thanks for the comments all. It's not going to happen any time soon but just a niggle in my mind having spoken to some 24v VR6 owners earlier in the year (Golf MK4). I think one was around 350 and the other closer to 400bhp

The reason I am favouring a supercharger over a turbo is that it retains the character of the engine, just in a more powerful way. Also no muffling of the exhaust 

The main issue with mounting a supercharger is that the auxiliary belt is up against the right inner wing. On the MK4 it can be mounted very low down, so much so that it's completely hidden with the bonnet open, which I think is awesome. I've also seen a driveshaft type arrangement so that it can be mounted on the left side near the airbox, which is probably more convenient for the pipework etc

But like I say, just looking around. The car remains a road car and I don't want to do anything major but a bit more power would be great. Also been looking into porting and polishing the head along with a remap

Apparently these engines are tough things and 400bhp doesn't trouble the internals, but near that figure a compression reducing head gasket is recommended, but at 350bhp it isn't needed


----------



## gogs

Raif supercharged his mk1 3.2 some time back, not sure how different the engines and layout are between the mk1 & mk2

Link below if you’ve not already seen it

The Future's Misano - V6 TURBO
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...rce=app[/URL]"]The Future's Misano - V6 TURBO

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

gogs said:


> Raif supercharged his mk1 3.2 some time back, not sure how different the engines and layout are between the mk1 & mk2


Thanks for link, a great build thread, though it's turbo not supercharger from what I've skim read so far?


----------



## IPG3.6

gogs said:


> The Future's Misano - V6 TURBO


Link is dead


----------



## MT-V6

IPG3.6 said:


> Link is dead


I think the tapatalk bit is breaking it but I found it here The Future's Misano - V6 TURBO


----------



## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> I think the tapatalk bit is breaking it but I found it here The Future's Misano - V6 TURBO


This looks like he turbo'd it though, not S/C'd? Or did he SC it first and then turbo it after? A bit confused.


----------



## ritred

MT-V6 said:


> *Retrofit: headlight washers (part 2: wiring, coding)*
> 
> These instructions may differ for facelift TTs.
> 
> Parts required:
> 
> 1J0 973 722 A
> 2-pin connector for pump
> 
> 929938-6
> Pin for 2.5mm wire and seal
> x2
> 
> 963292-1
> Pin seals
> x2
> 
> TE 1241374-1
> Pin for CECM T11c, pin 8
> 
> 8K0 951 253
> Relay code 643, Normally Open
> 
> 443 937 527
> 9 pin relay holder
> 
> N 907 327 03
> Pin for relay holder for 2.5mm wire (holder pin 2)
> 
> N 906 966 03
> Pin for relay holder for 4mm wire (holder pin 8 )
> 
> TE 160759-4
> Pin for relay holder for 1.5mm wire (holder pins 4 and 6)
> 
> 30A blade fuse
> 
> N 907 327 03
> Pin for fuse for 2.5mm wire
> 
> 2.5mm wire
> 1.5mm wire
> 0.35mm wire
> 
> Fitting:
> 
> A new 30 amp fuse needs to be added to the underbonnet fuse box, fuse 6, circled:
> 
> View attachment 440919
> 
> 
> The fuse holder can be released and pushed below, by releasing the tab on the far left. The entire fuse box tray can be released by releasing the tab at the bottom:
> 
> View attachment 440921
> 
> 
> The back panel of this released holder can be removed, giving access to install pin for the new fuse. There should already be a supply to this fuse, so just add the new pin from the fuse and then reinstall this fuse holder (my wire is the thick red one, ignore the yellow):
> 
> View attachment 440929
> 
> 
> The wire from the fuse needs to be fed to the relay. The relay is fitted to this location:
> 
> View attachment 440925
> 
> 
> The relay is wired as per the following:
> 
> Relay holder / relay:
> Pin 4 / 1 > Join to relay holder pin 2, 1.5mm wire
> Pin 6 / 2 > CECM T11c, pin 8, 0.35mm wire
> 
> Pin 2 / 3 > Fuse SB6 (permanent live) 2.5mm wire. Also joins to relay holder pin 4, 1.5mm wire
> Pin 8 / 5 > Headlight washer pump, pin 2, 2.5mm wire
> 
> View attachment 440927
> 
> 
> As you can see, the new wires that need to leave the fuse box are: CECM trigger wire and pump positive. These need to be fed out of the large grommet in the base of the holder.
> 
> The CECM wire needs to be fed to the area above the pedals. This is covered elsewhere on this forum but the two approaches are either via a bulkhead grommet on the passenger side under the airbox which emerges behind the glovebox, or by modifying the access panel on the drivers side under the scuttle panel which emerges behind the instrument cluster.
> 
> The pump wire needs to be fed to the reservoir and to the newly added pump. An earth also needs to be fed through. There is a convenient earth location just beneath the airbox:
> 
> View attachment 440931
> 
> 
> The pump connector is wired:
> 
> Pin 1 > Earth, 2.5mm wire
> Pin 2 > Headlight washer relay holder pin 8, 2.5mm wire
> 
> Coding:
> 
> 09-Cent. Elect
> 
> Byte 1, bit 1 - enable 'Headlight Washer installed'[/*]
> Byte 5, bits 0-7 - 'Headlight Washer Delay' (default: 20 x 50 = 1000ms)[/*]
> Byte 6, bits 0-7 - 'Headlight Washer Activation Time' (default: 28 x 50 = 1400ms) (also in adaptation channel 04)[/*]


Hi Mate,

In the middle of this - headlight washers wiring. Just a quick question: the wiring says the CECM T11c pin 8 is the one to use for the pump relay. Is this block C pin 8? Not sure what T11 means ...

Thanks,

Richard.


----------



## ritred

ritred said:


> Hi Mate,
> 
> In the middle of this - headlight washers wiring. Just a quick question: the wiring says the CECM T11c pin 8 is the one to use for the pump relay. Is this block C pin 8? Not sure what T11 means ...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Richard.


I think I found it (see attached). This means it will be block D, according to the wiring diagrams, Right?


----------



## MT-V6

Just to confirm, do you have a cecm (lots of small connectors of about 12-16 pins) or bcm (3 52 pin connectors)?

But yes T11c is block D

Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk


----------



## ritred

MT-V6 said:


> Just to confirm, do you have a cecm (lots of small connectors of about 12-16 pins) or bcm (3 52 pin connectors)?
> 
> But yes T11c is block D
> 
> Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk


Lots of small connectors, mate.

That's what I thought.


----------



## ritred

Hi Mark,

Apologies for bombarding you with questions about things you've done centuries ago, but since I started cabling things I decided to cable for all the improvements I wanted to eventually complete in one go. Which brings me to the Xenon AFS Module.

Now, based on previous posts, the module is different from the one used for only Xenon lights, with a few pin migrations needed, The thing is I have found what in my mind seem to be pin clashes (I am probably reading it wrong), so I request your help, please:

For swapping the module, you list a set of pins that need to be changed:

Module pin 6 (green/blue) > move to pin 21
Module pin 7 (blue) > move to pin 22
Module pin 10 (black) > move to pin 12
Module pin 12 (green/brown) > move to pin 10

Module pin 15 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
Module pin 17 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)

Which I gather those that are not listed above need to be placed in the same location they were before. And this is where my confusion starts:

The right headlight pin 2 was already cabled onto pin 21 of the original module, and pin 3 of the same side onto pin 22 of the range module. If the front range sensor signal pin needs to go onto pin 21 of the new module, and the rear range sensor signal onto 22, where would the other two go?

Finally, one quick question: old module pin 15 and pin 17 need to go onto pin 15 of the new one, right (connected to each other)?

Thanks in advance,

Richard.



MT-V6 said:


> I have swapped my LED bixenons for AFS LED bixenons. This is a kind of "upgrade" guide that can build on my main retrofit guide. I knew I was planning on going this route so I installed the correct wiring in advance, so if you have factory fit bixenons already fitted, you will need to run some extra wires to them. If going from halogen (like I did overall), still more wires will need to be run, read my other guide first. Some changes are required in the dash fuse box.
> 
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/my-phantom-black-v6-thread.1505602/page-2#post-9374517
> 
> Firstly, these parts are required:
> 
> AFS headlights x2 (RHD/LHD to suit your car) - will add part numbers
> Ballasts (they differ) x2 - 8E0 941 329 A
> Screws for ballasts (if ballasts are not already attached to the headlight unit) x6 - N 903 474 02
> AFS module (in order of age, any should work) - 4F0 907 357 F -> 4L0 907 357 -> 4L0 907 357 B
> Module connector - 7M3 972 726 A
> 
> The AFS headlights have satin silver on the sides of the projector, compared to the gloss black of the standard bixenons.
> View attachment 487649
> 
> 
> Here is the standard xenon module on the left, and the AFS one on the right. The blue connector is very slightly different, though the inner black pin holders are the same, so they do not need to be completely repinned.
> View attachment 487650
> 
> 
> The AFS module mounted up behind the instrument cluster after repinning. I unplugged the headlights before repinning this, as some power outputs differ and I didn't want to damage anything. I didn't reconnect them until the new module was in place.
> View attachment 487651
> 
> 
> You will get this error when you code AFS in the instrument cluster prior to reconnecting the AFS module.
> View attachment 487652
> 
> 
> The coding is:
> 
> 10-Instruments
> 
> Coding:
> ????xxx: Equipment
> +0032 = Advanced Front Lighting System (AFS = Cornering Lights) installed
> 
> 
> 55-Xenon Range
> 
> Coding:
> 0000023 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and Front Wheel Drive (FWD)
> 0000024 = Audi TT (8J) with Steel Suspension and All Wheel Drive (AWD)
> 0000025 = Audi TT (8J) with Magnetic Ride
> 
> Note: Perform Security Access before Coding and Basic Setting (Headlight Adjustment) after Coding
> 
> Security Access:
> 
> 02000 = General Coding "Enabling"
> 02000 > 03000 > 04000 > 05000 = General Adaptation "Enabling" (Enter one after another)
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_TT_(8J)_Headlight_Aim_Control_(Adaptive_Light)
> 
> The pin changes from LED xenon to AFS xenon are:
> 
> Headlight pin 14, both sides > add new earth, 1mm2 brown wire
> 
> Module pin 6 (green/blue) > move to pin 21
> Module pin 7 (blue) > move to pin 22
> Module pin 10 (black) > move to pin 12
> Module pin 12 (green/brown) > move to pin 10
> 
> Module pin 15 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
> Module pin 17 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
> 
> IN PROGRESS
> 
> The headlight vertical height can be adjusted by the adjustor via this hole.
> View attachment 487653


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## ritred

ritred said:


> Hi Mark,
> 
> Apologies for bombarding you with questions about things you've done centuries ago, but since I started cabling things I decided to cable for all the improvements I wanted to eventually complete in one go. Which brings me to the Xenon AFS Module.
> 
> Now, based on previous posts, the module is different from the one used for only Xenon lights, with a few pin migrations needed, The thing is I have found what in my mind seem to be pin clashes (I am probably reading it wrong), so I request your help, please:
> 
> For swapping the module, you list a set of pins that need to be changed:
> 
> Module pin 6 (green/blue) > move to pin 21
> Module pin 7 (blue) > move to pin 22
> Module pin 10 (black) > move to pin 12
> Module pin 12 (green/brown) > move to pin 10
> 
> Module pin 15 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
> Module pin 17 > Splice pin 15 (purple) and pin 17 (green) and move to pin 15 (green)
> 
> Which I gather those that are not listed above need to be placed in the same location they were before. And this is where my confusion starts:
> 
> The right headlight pin 2 was already cabled onto pin 21 of the original module, and pin 3 of the same side onto pin 22 of the range module. If the front range sensor signal pin needs to go onto pin 21 of the new module, and the rear range sensor signal onto 22, where would the other two go?
> 
> Finally, one quick question: old module pin 15 and pin 17 need to go onto pin 15 of the new one, right (connected to each other)?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Richard.


Hmm, now I am starting to make sense of this. Essentially, the AFS module needs fewer lines, so only those you mentioned are required, nothing else. However, either there is a typo on your wiring, or I am reading the manuals wrong (probably the latter). See attached:

According to this, firstly, all your front and rear level sensors are spot on. However, as I read it, Pin 1 of each headlight are joined up and go to pin 18 of the module, and both pin 2 of either headlight are joined up and go into pin 19 of the module. Am I reading this right?


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## MT-V6

Sorry for the delay, kept forgetting to reply to this. I will take a look, which also reminds me I didn't finish that write up either. Bare in mind though that it is from xenon to AFS xenon, not halogen to AFS xenon, so wiring will differ a bit


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## ritred

No problem, mate, thanks for looking into it.

Yes, I know, and that is how I am cabling it (from the T14, as if I had Xenon lights, which I still don't). The idea is, when I get the headlights, just plug and play.



MT-V6 said:


> Sorry for the delay, kept forgetting to reply to this. I will take a look, which also reminds me I didn't finish that write up either. Bare in mind though that it is from xenon to AFS xenon, not halogen to AFS xenon, so wiring will differ a bit


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## MT-V6

ritred said:


> No problem, mate, thanks for looking into it.


I have just updated my original AFS post with all the wires. There are quite a few changes involved. Hopefully it is clear!


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## MT-V6

Ready for my next track day at Brands Hatch in November I needed to replace my rear pads as they were a little low. They were just OE spec so I used the opportunity to fit Bluestuff with new Brembo disks. I also replaced the backing plates and hardware to freshen it all up. I never realised how "poor" fitting the rear pads are on the V6 disks either, there is lots of unswept disk


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## ritred

MT-V6 said:


> I have just updated my original AFS post with all the wires. There are quite a few changes involved. Hopefully it is clear!


Great, thanks, mate. Now it all makes sense.


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## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> Ready for my next track day at Brands Hatch in November I needed to replace my rear pads as they were a little low. They were just OE spec so I used the opportunity to fit Bluestuff with new Brembo disks. I also replaced the backing plates and hardware to freshen it all up. I never realised how "poor" fitting the rear pads are on the V6 disks either, there is lots of unswept disk
> 
> View attachment 493336



Seeing this reminded me...
Just went to book to join - all full 🤦‍♂️


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## MT-V6

Just an odd photo after having my fog light trims and wing mirrors painted in "titanium" to match my wheels and rear diffuser. This is the colour used by Audi on the black edition cars, but these parts were not included. Wanted to have something unique without using TTS/RS parts. The centre grill is yet to be done, just deciding what route to go with that


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## Barr_end

OEM+ as always!
Little touches always make the biggest difference to me, really rounds it all off and completes it


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## MT-V6

Barr_end said:


> OEM+ as always!
> Little touches always make the biggest difference to me, really rounds it all off and completes it


Of course I agree 

Not visible in that photo is a cool retrofit that took me ages to work out, need to get photos after washing the car


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## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> Just an odd photo after having my fog light trims and wing mirrors painted in "titanium" to match my wheels and rear diffuser. This is the colour used by Audi on the black edition cars, but these parts were not included. Wanted to have something unique without using TTS/RS parts. The centre grill is yet to be done, just deciding what route to go with that
> 
> View attachment 493624


Looks real nice 

The titanium look on the trims is a really nice touch. I was thinking about painting my fog grilles in that same area/trim part (do you have an S front bumper on your car BTW?). I was thinking to make mine blue but not really sure. In order to do that myself I'd probably just do them with Plasti dip--reversible at least if I don't like it.

I also never put on the black grille I got off eBay. I'm kind of torn between having the contrast of the grey and matte silver of the S grille and making it more black. I was thinking now more to see if just changing the grille _surround_ from the chrome to the black one might not be some kind of happy in-between. I do like the lower "quattro" logo (like the newer cars) on the grille I bought, but I dunno about this blacked out business lol. I think if I change to the black grille the matte-silver fog accents are definitely going to be the odd man out, matching only the fuel door which is not visually near the front.

Anyway, gonna just pack the new grille in the basement for now lol. That's a project or something to worry about for next spring now--maybe will test fit it up a couple ways and decide which I like best. 

FWIW I think your grille looks perfectly good as it is! Maybe you could change the chrome surround and the rings to the same titanium look, that'd be interesting--that's just my $0.02 though.


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## MT-V6

As part of my mirror swap I also retrofitted mirror puddle lights or "surround" lights. These are used on many VWs but not very many Audis, but after much investigation I finally realised that the TT door modules do support them. I will write this up in more detail but for now here are some photos. The LED units are Mercedes parts. It gives a nice glow at night and works well with the coming/leaving home lights


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## SwissJetPilot

Pretty cool. Would be a nice place to mount curb-cam too if such a thing was possible on the Mk2.


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## Robtaylors

Like that, very smart 👍👌


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## CurryMan

What a great mod - looks superb and OEM.


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## Barr_end

MT-V6 said:


> As part of my mirror swap I also retrofitted mirror puddle lights or "surround" lights. These are used on many VWs but not very many Audis, but after much investigation I finally realised that the TT door modules do support them. I will write this up in more detail but for now here are some photos. The LED units are Mercedes parts. It gives a nice glow at night and works well with the coming/leaving home lights


Top work as always!
I will be keeping an eye out for this write up


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## MT-V6

SwissJetPilot said:


> Would be a nice place to mount curb-cam too if such a thing was possible on the Mk2.


I did think about that as you can get modules that splice multiple camera images together but they don't do it in a very nice way. Also the R8 camera module overlays moving gridlines and they would be in the wrong place. Finally space in the mirror housing is surprisingly tight for what looks like a large housing but if the camera wasn't too deep it might be possible


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## MT-V6

As above I managed to fit mirror puddle lights/surround lights using slightly modified door modules. Here is some rough information about how it is set up.

The first issue is that although the door module coding does allow "Ambient Mirror Illumination installed" to be enabled, the pin provides power is not present, as it is on VW modules. This feature is actually not enabled on any Audi using these type of GEN3 modules but luckily even though Audi removed the pin, the rest of the PCB is present.



















So this means the first step is to insert a pin into position 10 of the 16 pin mirror connector on each door module. I bought a donor module for this to be sure the pins were the correct type.










The pins can be removed by pulling them out with pliers, it takes a little force. I used some smooth jawed pliers so as not to damage them. You can push them into your PCB with a pair of flat jewellers screwdrivers.










That is all for the door modules, so they can go back in the car for now. Next up is to fit some lights to the mirror housings. I bought donor mirrors for this and hence the various colours in these photos. As previously mentioned I used Mercedes LED units as I found them to be nice and slim and a nice design (also inspired by my neighbours C Class!). Here is one with the lens removed:










The next modification is to make these unit even slimmer as turns out the TT mirror frame has minimal clearance to the housing. This is how it started off:










I cut the top off and some surplus plastic from the edges (all just empty air space inside) and bonded on a flat piece of plastic. I used loads silicone inside to keep it dry, and did the same when refitting the lens.










The light attached to the mirror housing (TTS housing here as I changed my mind mid project and ended up using painted mirrors in the end in "titanium" grey). Note the Mercedes lights are fitted in reverse, eg right light in the left housing, but fitted rotated 180 degrees as the lens shines the light diagonally away from the car door.










This is due to clearance around where the wires emerge from the light, as you can see here there isn't much space:










And here is a test fit after cutting out the hole. It was tricky to cut as the mirror housing is very thick and I had to thin it out, probably 2 hours worth of nerve wracking dremel time per side 😅 










Obviously the light needs to be wired into the module in the newly added pin 10. Code them by adding +2 to your existing coding. I hope that helps someone in future who fancies giving it a go. The project and off took about 2 years as I kept getting fed up until finally working out that the module does support it as I was determined not to use a feed from the interior light. Thanks also to @IPG3.6 as I bounced quite a few ideas off of him in the process 👍


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## TT'sRevenge

MT-V6 said:


> And here is a test fit after cutting out the hole. It was tricky to cut as the mirror housing is very thick and I had to thin it out, probably 2 hours worth of nerve wracking dremel time per side 😅
> 
> View attachment 495782


That's some really awesome work! My main main question after the first post showing them was how the heck did you get them into the mirrors physically and this answers it... Do you have a Dremel "drill press" attachement or did you actually do that free hand?  This is so much more than I have patience for lol. 

If you have those S mirror caps still and you did as good a job at Dremel-ing them, I'm sure someone would buy them off you in a heartbeat!


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## MT-V6

All freehand 😅 it did test my patience

I have the S ones, only one has a hole cut in it but it is neat, I just changed course as I didn't intend to make an S replica car, I just bought them because I liked them, but in the end thought I'd do something unique and use a contrasting colour around the whole car. However I want to keep them for now and I don't really fancy cutting the matching hole on the other side 😆

The edge of the hole is 'sharper' than the painted ones as I cannot sand it off and obviously it doesn't have paint over it all, so I painted the edge of the hole black, not that you can really see with the lens in place


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## darrylmg

MT-V6 said:


> All freehand 😅 it did test my patience
> 
> I have the S ones, only one has a hole cut in it but it is neat, I just changed course as I didn't intend to make an S replica car, I just bought them because I liked them, but in the end thought I'd do something unique and use a contrasting colour around the whole car. However I want to keep them for now and I don't really fancy cutting the matching hole on the other side 😆
> 
> The edge of the hole is 'sharper' than the painted ones as I cannot sand it off and obviously it doesn't have paint over it all, so I painted the edge of the hole black, not that you can really see with the lens in place
> 
> View attachment 495936


Looks OEM that. 👏


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