# No sound from new stereo



## jamie216 (Feb 8, 2018)

Hi all

I've installed a kenwood DMX7017DABS with a connects2 fitting kit and everything works on it but I'm getting no sound at all. All the speaker wires are connected and I've wired in the blue wire for the amp but there's still no sound. I then got told that I have a DSP amp (not 100% sure what that is) and that there's no fitting kit for that. Is this true or does anyone know a way round this?

Appreciate any help and apologies if this isn't in the right place.. never posted on here before!

Cheers
Jamie


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## dgrose (Jan 1, 2018)

I installed a Pioneer with a connects2 kit and had to use the pre out phonos for it to work (not the speaker connectors)

Regards

Dave


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## andys_tts (Oct 12, 2016)

I'll be watching this post as I'm about to fit the same unit.. :?


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## Jasonl (Mar 31, 2018)

Ive not long fitted kenwood ddx9717 with connects2 ..i know i had full amp ..couple of wires needed to be connected to ant booster and steering wheel controls will get it out as soon as im home and take some pics


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## pdk42 (Apr 23, 2018)

What was the audio spec of your car before you fitted the Kenwood? If you do have an amp (likely) then you should connect line level outputs not speaker level to it.


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## jamie216 (Feb 8, 2018)

I had the audi navigation plus with the bose sound system


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## aeronaut90 (Feb 18, 2018)

I had the Kenwood fitted in March. All ok to start with but then intermittently no sound at all. Worked it out that it was ambient temperature related as it was fine in the mornings but after sitting in the sun it packed up. Took it back to the car hifi shop who were initially sceptical and keen to blame the Bose amp (I'd already spoken to the Edinburgh people who doubted it was the amp) but when they applied some heat to the aerial booster lo and behold they replicated the fault. The booster was replaced with a different type and so far it's been fine, considering the scorching weather of late so that was clearly the problem.


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## andys_tts (Oct 12, 2016)

Is there any update on this. Have you managed to sort it?


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## jamie216 (Feb 8, 2018)

andys_tts said:


> Is there any update on this. Have you managed to sort it?


Haven't had a chance over the weekend, going to try some things after work today or on my lunch break tomorrow. I'll let you know if anything works


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Is the "amplifier remote turn on" (aka wake-up) connected to the cars wiring from the headunit? Usually a blue wire with a white stripe - at least on the older iso-connectors. This provides a signal for an (external or oe) amplifier which then turns on when the headunit is turned on.

Usually on an aftermarket headunit there is that wire (amp remote) coming from the headunit but it is cut and has a connector. The other end is on the "car side" of the wiring. This is because not all cars have oe amps so if you wish to add one then there is the readiness for you to connect a wire to it which thens goes to the amp. BUT if a car has an oe amp then you should connect the wires together because the signal has to go to the cars wiring.

Back in the days when my ex had an E36 328i coupe with an factory amp and 6 speakers in the front, I changed the headunit to a mp3-cd one from the oe-cassette player. I had rough times finding out why I couldn't get any sound through it. Tried to headunit on my own car and it worked fine. Then I realised that amp remote control wire - connected both sides of it together and it worked.

But this is only viable if the new headunit has a adapter harness which connects to the factory quadlock. If the quadlock is connected straight to the headunit then it will be providing that signal and the problem lies somewhere else.. Or the headunit provides the "wake-up" signal to a wrong wire..


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## andys_tts (Oct 12, 2016)

83kY said:


> Back in the days when my ex had an E36 328i coupe with an factory amp and 6 speakers in the front, I changed the headunit to a mp3-cd one from the oe-cassette player. I had rough times finding out why I couldn't get any sound through it. Tried to headunit on my own car and it worked fine. Then I realised that amp remote control wire - connected both sides of it together and it worked.
> .


I had an E36 328i sport. Loved that car. BBS LM's Lowered (slightly) and Leather. Had a Blue flame exhaust too which made the straight 6 sound amazing. 8)


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## jamie216 (Feb 8, 2018)

andys_tts said:


> Is there any update on this. Have you managed to sort it?


Not a good update I'm afraid. I haven't found a fix for it and I'm more confused now then I was at the start! I've been told different things by different places that contradict each other yet nothing has worked. I've had my wiring checked over and apparently that's all good but one person has told me the speaker wires (two red and two white) aren't going to anything in the original quadlock plug but when I phoned dynamic sounds to say it was the wrong harness, they told me that the full bose system doesn't take the sound from them?? That doesn't sound right to me but I'm no expert with this so I've no idea what to believe or where to go from here. I think I'll take it all apart again and start over just to make sure I've not missed anything.



83kY said:


> Is the "amplifier remote turn on" (aka wake-up) connected to the cars wiring from the headunit? Usually a blue wire with a white stripe - at least on the older iso-connectors. This provides a signal for an (external or oe) amplifier which then turns on when the headunit is turned on.
> 
> Usually on an aftermarket headunit there is that wire (amp remote) coming from the headunit but it is cut and has a connector. The other end is on the "car side" of the wiring. This is because not all cars have oe amps so if you wish to add one then there is the readiness for you to connect a wire to it which thens goes to the amp. BUT if a car has an oe amp then you should connect the wires together because the signal has to go to the cars wiring.


Already done this and no sound. I plugged the old head unit back in just to be sure the amp hadn't gone and it worked fine..


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

In a Bose system, the amp in the boot powers all the speakers. None are powered directly by the HU.

Are you sure that the blue cable is correctly connected to give the power-on signal to the Bose amp? That would be my guess at the problem (assuming that you have the correct adaptor loom). It can't really be anything else that I can think of.


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## dgrose (Jan 1, 2018)

I had the navigation plus non Bose and all the speakers are powered by the amp in the boot.
I had to use the pre-out phono sockets on the back of my HU, which went through the connects2 kit, making sure the blue power cable was also connected.

Dave


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## jamie216 (Feb 8, 2018)

Sorry for no updates on this, I've been ill and bed bound for best part of a week. I took everything apart and put it all back together again to make sure I hadn't missed anything.. still no luck. After this I took it to a place near me which deals in car audio and the bloke checked it over and said I'd done it right but that some mk2 tt's have this problem and they need rewiring. I've heard that from a few different people now, whether it's because of a DSP or other reasons so I'm probably going to cut my losses, put the old headunit back in, and have a think about/save money for what I want to do next


andys_tts said:


> I'll be watching this post as I'm about to fit the same unit.. :?


Sorry this does't help you at all but I hope you don't have the same problems!


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## pickstereo (Sep 6, 2020)

hi I have the same issue but according to this guide i resolve my issue ... I hope that might be helpful for you ...let me know if you have still issue related this.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

There have been recent posts re this problem when fitting aftermarket HUs to Bose systems. It seems that on some cars some recoding is needed to alter that way in which the Bose amp gets its turn on signal from the HU. Have a search around the forum and see if you can find them. Don't give up on the new HU just yet.


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