# TT Roof Problems!



## L0RA56 (Aug 5, 2010)

Hi all,

I'm having problems with my roof, I picked the car up on Tuesday after viewing Saturday. On Saturday the roof worked fine, went up and down smoothly. Monday the car was MOT'd and serviced.

I've now tried to put the roof down today and it's not doing anything. It makes a clicky noise behind the passenger seat but the roof doesnt go down. If I put the roof down manually the motor will put the roof back up. The wind deflector goes up and down with no problems.

I've read all I can about it on the internet but still no closer to knowing what could be wrong with it. All this talk about Vagcom is getting me confused. Someone also mentioned fluid levels could be a problem but this is normally when the roof will go down but not up and also effects the wind deflector. Or could this be the fault?

My previous car was a beetle and the procedure for putting the roof down is the same so i dont think i've done anything wrong.

Has anyone got any suggestions?


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## Davy G (Aug 9, 2012)

The roof problem sorted!

I have a 2008 TT roadster that developed the roof problem where the roof would unlock and go down and flaps would close and all's well. Then to raise the roof the flaps would open but no movement from the roof.
I could release the pressure from the motor by turning the pressure release on the hydraulic pump through the boot floor and close the roof as per owners manual, I locked the roof using the switch and the roof active light went out. The following time trying to open the roof, it would unlock but not open.
After reading the forums on this I took out the boot panels in the boot and accessed the hydraulic pump. There appeared to be low fluid (just below min when roof was closed), so I bought some correct hydraulic fluid (also for steering) from an independent VW / AUDI parts supplier (TPS) and added using a printer ink syringe. This made no difference to the fault and these pumps don't go wrong it seems.

I decided to take the car to a local main dealer who wanted £135 for diagnostic before any discussion. Instead I took it to a vw/audi independent workshop that ran the program for £30. It came up with 3 soft top control error memory faults. 1 switch setting, 2 switch signal and 3 Right convertible top flap sensor.
I went back to the forums without success to find the sensor, but realised there was a problem that the main dealers were denying but replacing a part under warranty when the car goes in for servicing. 
I contacted the dealer who had stamped the service book from new and found out that it had already had the upgrade. He said it sounds like the same fault and the cost to replace the sensor would be £250 - £450 for repair plus diagnostic charge.

Back to local main dealer Parts dept, for a "Right convertible top flap sensor". I was shown an exploded view on the screen and he identified the part as the "flap motor" that also included the sensor. He wanted £70 for the part or again up to £400 to fit it.
Back to the independent supplier, same exploded view, and paid £50 for the part and I fitted it in less than 30 minutes (these parts are handed left and right).

To replace the part the roof must be in the nearly open position maybe 300mm from fully open and will hold in position by the hydraulics if the ignition is off. The unit is located just behind a cover in the roof storage compartment. The pushrod connecting the flap goes to the motor direct and motor can be seen easily from the side when the roof is in the correct position.
There are 5 push in clips that hold the storage area cover in place, pull out the clip centres and ease the cover away to expose the motor enough to get the allen key in to undo the 4 bolts.
Pop off the top of the push rod at the flap end, undo the 4 allen key bolts (don't drop them) and ease the motor away from its position.
A small screw driver to release the clip lock on the electrical connection from the motor and the motor will come away with the push rod attached. Use the screwdriver to unlock the arm and pushrod from the rear of the motor. 
The arm and pushrod will only fit in the correct position to the motor so it can't be fitted wrong. 
The electrical connection is best made before positioning the new unit in place
Position the motor and replace the 4 bolts.
The roof can be lowered to the fully open position by releasing the hydraulic pressure, but beware the disconnected pushrod it not trapped in the roof mechanism. 
Once the roof is down, push or pull on the pushrod to position the motor to line up with the flap which should be in the same place as the opposite side.
Use the switch to check the flaps work.
You will still have the same problem as before at this stage or maybe worse with windows not returning to closed position on roof switch and light staying on for roof position etc. Needs coding.
I took the car back to the Independent Audi workshop (www.jbsautodesigns.co.uk) and they ran the diagnostic program and coded the new part to the car £30
JOB DONE. Total cost £110
Hope this helps, it worked for me. Main dealers must be making a fortune on this fault that they know about.


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## Dickdanpete (Apr 10, 2014)

I had exactly this problem with my 2008 Roadster. I'm not too bad with DIY fixes but this one looked pretty fiddly so I gave a couple of independent garages a call.

I ended up booking in with Dean at 4-Rings in Dartford, Kent (www.4rings.co.uk). I called on Thursday afternoon and was booked in for the Monday morning. He fixed the flap, including parts for about £150. Taking in to account the amount of anger I would have worked up trying to fit in to the tiny gap and the other parts I probably would have broken, I think that's a pretty good deal.

I also called him on Monday morning to say that my passenger side window was playing up. He ordered a new regulator, had it there by 10:30 and it was fitted and I was out by 11:30 with both things fixed.

The VAGCOM was registering a fault with the drivers side flap motor also but it's still working for now so I am going to wait that one out...


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