# Thermostat change



## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

View attachment Thermostat change TT (part 1).docx
View attachment Thermostat change TT (part 2).docx
I am about to change my Thermostat, I came across a (How to) on Audiworld some time ago which appears to be a little easier than ours, it`s in 2 parts, is it feasible. I hope this works.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

I changed mine a few weeks back, It's not a difficult job. I don't know why people say it is :?

The only semi difficult bit was getting the bottom bolt off the housing, it was fiddly at worst. 
Once the nut was broken I got it off easily using a long thin screwdriver that fit the 5mm allen slot on the 10mm bolt.

Oh and get a new dipstick tube, it will break.


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## bobclive23 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks Brian 1978,

I`m in my 70`s and didn`t want to crawl under the car as per our (How to), just wanted to be sure it could be done from the top before I started. I already have dipstick tube but thanks for reminder. If you go to Audiworld these instructions are there but no pics.

My socket set is 1/2 inch, will I get in with this.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

bobclive23 said:


> Thanks Brian 1978,
> 
> I`m in my 70`s and didn`t want to crawl under the car as per our (How to), just wanted to be sure it could be done from the top before I started. I already have dipstick tube but thanks for reminder. If you go to Audiworld these instructions are there but no pics.
> 
> My socket set is 1/2 inch, will I get in with this.


I doubt it, but don't know for definite. I used a 3/8th set with a small wobble bar and a flex extension for the top bolt it was tight at that. For the bottom one I used a flex head ratchet spanner to break the bolt and undone it with a thin screwdriver poked between the alternator and the pipe that comes out it. You have to go under the car to drain the coolant. Getting the pipe off the oil cooler to drain the last bit of fluid was difficult so I just let it spill onto the drive when I popped the stat out.
Remember and wash it away if you do this as animals can drink it and get poisoned, and it makes the drive white if it drys.

The bolts have a 5mm allen hole on them, I just got a screwdriver to turn it. Suppose a long ball ended allen key might also do.


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## bobclive23 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks Brian, will get a 3/8 set.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

bobclive23 said:


> Thanks Brian, will get a 3/8 set.


You can never have too many tools :wink:


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## Jaylad (Sep 21, 2013)

Can you get a dipstick tube online anywhere ?


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Jaylad said:


> Can you get a dipstick tube online anywhere ?


Just get it from any VAG stealers.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Jaylad said:


> Can you get a dipstick tube online anywhere ?


Hi, plenty here.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

Hoggy.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

bobclive23 said:


> Thanks Brian, will get a 3/8 set.


I did mine two nights ago, all very simple but very tight in there, it helped removing the alternator connections too. I only had a 3/8 ratchet and ended up using just an Allen key instead, took me nearly an hour to undo just the bottom bolt (might have been easier in daylight). I really wished I'd gone a bought a new 1/4 ratchet and wobble head extension before starting.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Sorry i had a brainfart, it's a 1/4 inch set I used, the smallest one lol.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hi Brian1978,

Why did you go under the car to drain the water, Pic 7 on the (how to) shows the clamp that holds the radiator hose to the thermostat housing being removed any water will surely drain from there.

The whole reason for posting this (How to) was to see if anyone had used this method of replacing thermostat only from the top.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You can do it "from the top" but you will drain all the coolant onto your undertray which means you will lose most of it onto the ground and have puddles of coolant remain trapped on the tray which will slop around for a few miles splashing down underneath the car and ending up on your paintwork probably. The coolant isn't cheap either so it's best to lose as little as possible.

If you really do want to avoid getting on the floor and don't mind the cost of new coolant then you can at least get a hose pipe and flood the undertray with gallons of water to wash away and dilute the puddled coolant.

Note that draining the oil cooler is a factory recommendation to minimise coolant loss but the connections can be tricky and you may wish to opt for the smaller coolant loss if this step is omitted.

I notice the How To you posted shows removing the dipstick tube. This isn't strictly necessary, doesn't really help getting at the bolts and if you are careful you can disengage it from the top plate without snapping it. If yours is an old tube it may be brittle anyway and would be a good idea to change it but it's best to try pulling it out straight in one piece with the top plate clear rather than snap it and then struggle fishing out the remains from the dipstick tube. So remove the top plate carefully without bending the tube - but have a spare tube handy :wink:


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

John, thanks for comment,

This is probably a stupid comment but, if I disconnect the rad hose as per pic, could I slam a wad into end of pipe to stop water flow from rad, or most of it, how much would come out of thermostat end before it was changed, just trying to get an indication of what may happen before I start.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

A tight fitting bung or a pipe clamp might stop it coming out from the radiator but it's just delaying the inevitable - as soon as you take the thermostat out most of the coolant will fall out of there instead. Ok you could try swapping in the new thermostat immediately but don't forget the new O-ring needs to go in there too, you might need to clean away any remains of the old one, so there will likely be little chance of preventing it all escaping - you'll need at least two litres of G12++ for a 40% mix and the distilled water to go with it.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Another, stupid _(ill prepared)_ question; is it not 'best practice' to give the coolant system a 'good flush' whilst the stat is out?

Or is it not that simple?


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Thanks John,

One last comment if I may, my temp is at 70 therefor the thermostat is I presume stuck open, does this mean that water will rush out of thermostat even before it`s changed, or will it slowly run out.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Good question but "stuck open" is an often used but misleading phrase. What it really means is it opens at too low a temperature but still operates, so you will probably find it's closed when you take the pipe off.

As for flushing, if the system has had G12++ in there all its life at the right concentration then there should be no corrosion so no need to flush - it should be as clean as a whistle. It's only when people top up with tap water or use the wrong coolant do you get deposits. Distilled water doesn't deplete the rust inhibitors in the G12++ nor does it contain minerals to form scale. Flushing with tap water will lave some tap water in there so best avoided unless absolutely necessary.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

John,

Much appreciate your response.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

As for the distilled water. if the water is very soft I don't see any reason not to use tap water. I've never used distilled water. :? 
I don't see what harm very soft tap water could do.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Chlorine


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

John-H said:


> Chlorine


Chlorine dissipates from tap water totally in about 24 hours, and it's initial concentrating is under 1 part per million. its reduced substantially by uv light in under 15 minuits, it's reason you have to keep topping up swimming pools with chlorine tablets.

None of the garages up here use distilled water, including dealerships.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

bobclive22 said:


> John,
> 
> Much appreciate your response.


 +1. Cheers mate.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, All ways best to use distilled water, but Soft tap water will be O.K. to use, because as it's a sealed system, water should not be lost, (boiled away) so no scale will be left behind.
Hoggy.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, All ways best to use distilled water, but Soft tap water will be O.K. to use, because as it's a sealed system, water should not be lost, (boiled away) so no scale will be left behind.
> Hoggy.


You won't get scale anyway with soft water. its just rain water so no disolved minerals. My mother has a 30 year old metal kettle that's been boiled thousands and thousands of times. It is gleaming inside.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

brian1978 said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, All ways best to use distilled water, but Soft tap water will be O.K. to use, because as it's a sealed system, water should not be lost, (boiled away) so no scale will be left behind.
> ...


Hi, There is soft water & softer water, depends on your location. Very soft water in Pembrokeshire, but even hard water shuldn't leave scale behind if system is leak free & sealed.
Hoggy.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Sorry, my battery died. I can smell chlorine in my water (tap!) and if it goes straight into a closed system it's not going to see sunlight. I once killed a car battery with tap water because someone told me the water was soft. I'd rather play safe seeing as it's not expensive to use the pure stuff, although it depends on extent obviously and the other thing I forgot to mention is that it needs replacing every so often but the time shortens with contamination.

Remember not to use demonised water as that contains evil spirits :wink:

I found this on Wynne's website:



> *Water Contaminants *
> 
> Water (typically tap water), when added to engine coolants, introduces another group of contaminants to a cooling system. Contaminants such as chlorides and sulfates can actually attack non-ferrous metals (copper and brass) in the cooling system. Hard water will promote scale deposits and can cause silicates to fall out of solution, producing a "gel" that can clog passageways in the radiator and heater core.
> 
> ...


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Tap water will kill a battery, because the contaminents cause conductivity & will short out the cells.
Battery completely different to a radiator. Always use a distilled water in a battery.
Hoggy.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

The chlorates and sulphates that article talks about are found in hard waters john, they disolve naturaly in the water from water seeping through porous bedrock. Chlorine added to soft drinking water does not mineralise and leave deposits.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

True, a battery is a bit different than a radiator obviously but I was later told it was the chlorine thad did for the battery even if the water was soft with low natural mineral content, which was the point.

Can't chlorine combine to form chloride though and does the reaction occur with the corrosion inhibitors? I'm not a chemist but I read somewhere about the corrosion inhibitors being degraded by using tap water but can't remember the process.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Tap water will kill a battery, because the contaminants cause conductivity & will short out the cells.
> Battery completely different to a radiator.* Always use a distilled water in a battery.*
> Hoggy.


 *Or deionised water. * It's dem foreign ions you don't want in a battery mixing with the battery's own ions. :wink:


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

I don't know if it helps, but when I did my thermostat last week, I simply drained my system and even though it came out pink and clean looking, and simply refilled it with ready mixed pink G12 from ECP, £8.99 for 5 litres.

I assume that stuff was ok, it was pink, it was G12, and £8.99 while I was there anyway seemed to make sense to me? I think it was ready mixed 50/50 or maybe 40/60, not sure from memory!


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Another question for anyone that has changed thermostat, is it a tight fit, will new one stay in place with a certain amount of water behind it.

I intend to clamp the rad pipe as Jonh-H suggested, tie off the old thermostat with length of string while still in situ, have new thermostat in hand, pries out old one and let it drop, instantly insert new, water loss should be minimal (I hope) if new thermostat stays in place long enough to replace the housing, hence is it a tight fit.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Mine wasn't a tight fit at all, didn't fall out, but the thermostat and o ring simply pulled out with fingers and no effort. I had already drained my system though. I don't think it would stay in place with water behind it.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I wasn't really suggesting you did that - more an example of the lengths you'd have to go to to try and make it work and how difficult it would be. The old thermostat might be stuck in place (welded itself with time) well enough to hold back the coolant but the new one will need pressing in hard continuously as it won't want to stay put at all. And you'd be missing the opportunity to clean the faces.

If you really don't want to take the under shield off then let the coolant escape, replace it and flush the old stuff away. Don't get into the situation of relying on retaining most of it and only buying a small amount to up with and getting caught short when it floods out. So, when you've bought enough to replace the lot, consider if that's not the best idea anyway :wink:


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

bobclive22 said:


> Another question for anyone that has changed thermostat, is it a tight fit, will new one stay in place with a certain amount of water behind it.
> 
> I intend to clamp the rad pipe as Jonh-H suggested, tie off the old thermostat with length of string while still in situ, have new thermostat in hand, pries out old one and let it drop, instantly insert new, water loss should be minimal (I hope) if new thermostat stays in place long enough to replace the housing, hence is it a tight fit.


I really can't see this going to plan bob. Sorry :?

I've a feelling it's all going to spill out of the thermostat housing. It's a 40mm hole I imagine it's going to come gushing out when you remove the old thermostat and empty before you even have 1/2 a chance to replace it, it's not a snug fit and as you are fumbling to get the awkward bolts in it's just going to keep coming out till it's empty. I found it awkward to put the bloody thing in with no water flying out it.

Cant you blag a "helper" to order under the car and drain it 

Hope it works though


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

brian1978

I really can't see this going to plan bob. Sorry :?

Seems like that Brian,

Seems i`m going underneath after all.

Thanks.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hi,

I was all ready to drain and replace thermostat, bought all the tools suggested in (How to) then noticed another member (Mikw225) posting a similar question, title of post (When changing thermostat!).

It appears 4 members responded that have changed the thermostat without draining and lost little coolant (thebluemax, Ian_W, tommatt90 and droopsnoop). I would prefer not to drain if only a small coolant loss occurred.

Any more members changed the thermostat without draining and how much coolant was lost, I don`t need the extra work of crawling under the car and removing bottom tray.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

bobclive22 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I was all ready to drain and replace thermostat, bought all the tools suggested in (How to) then noticed another member (Mikw225) posting a similar question, title of post (When changing thermostat!).
> 
> ...


When I changed mine I drained it, on johns guide he recommends draining the last bit that won't come out through the drain tap by draining it out of the oil cooler, it's about 1l. Now I was replacing my coolant anyway so I just let it pour out of the stat housing. That was the last litre of coolant, I'd already drained about 3.5l through the drain tap. When I popped the stat out it gushed out draining the last litre in about 1 second. I can't for the life of me think how it's possible to do this job whilst still retaining the majority of coolant in the car :?

I'd love to know how though.

The stat housing isn't a little hole that you can simply pop the old one out then rapidly bung up with a new stat to stop it emptying onto the drive, it's a massive gaping hole in the block the size of a 10p bit.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Perhaps you could jam a powerful vacuum cleaner in the expansion tank and keep sucking hard with enough air flow to keep the coolant in? :wink: I can't see it working though with such a big hole and you might fill up the vacuum cleaner.

I'm not sure how much you'd lose through the thermostat housing with no prior draining.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

John-H said:


> I'm not sure how much you'd lose through the thermostat housing with no prior draining.


All of it


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well, the thermostat is higher than the bottom of the radiator which the pipe from the thermostat goes to. Potentially you could retain a radiator's worth if you kept that pipe high or clamped it but you'd lose the block and head's content which I'd have thought was most of it.


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## mike225 (Apr 22, 2013)

bobclive22 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I was all ready to drain and replace thermostat, bought all the tools suggested in (How to) then noticed another member (Mikw225) posting a similar question, title of post (When changing thermostat!).
> 
> ...


I can say that you need to drain it completely as it does come gushing out from the bottle, i drained the system first from underneath before taking the piping and stat off, and when i did take both off, water/coolant gushed out from taking the stat out which i presume came from what was left in the coolant bottle. Oh and as for the bottom tray, i just pushed it aside while it drained out into a bucket, but yes you do need the car in the air to gain access. Hope this has helped.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Mike225 said,

I can say that you need to drain it completely as it does come gushing out from the bottle, i drained the system first from underneath before taking the piping and stat off.

Err, how do you know it comes gushing out if you drained it first, what do you mean by gushing out from the bottle, just asking.


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## mike225 (Apr 22, 2013)

bobclive22 said:


> Mike225 said,
> 
> I can say that you need to drain it completely as it does come gushing out from the bottle, i drained the system first from underneath before taking the piping and stat off.
> 
> Err, how do you know it comes gushing out if you drained it first, what do you mean by gushing out from the bottle, just asking.


It only drains out from the bottom what is in it from the drain tap up to the thermostat, as the thermostat is closed when cold, so therefore is holding back what is behind the thermostat up to the bottle that you fill it up in. Does this help?


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

If no air is allowed to enter the system from the top ie from the header tank and the rad feed is clamped, water should not continuously rush out from the thermostat after it had been removed, it would probably glug out slowly.

When water comes out of a closed container something has to take its place! So by having the thermostat hole near the bottom of the of the water jacket no air is allowed to enter the system.

The guy that wrote the original (how to) stated that water loss would be minimal and he did not seal the header tank or the pipe from the rad.

http://www.scienceoffcenter.org/science ... pen-bottle


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hi again,

I haven`t changed the thermostat yet, just did a little experiment to see what would happen if system was made air tight, you can see difference when bottle top is loosened, the engine is not I believe an open container like the bottle so water should run out even more slowly.

What needs blocking off to make it air tight.

http://s446.photobucket.com/user/bobcli ... sort=6&o=0


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

I changed my thermostat a couple of weeks ago, I replaced the coolant completely... If for whatever reason I had to change my thermostat again tomorrow I would spend £8 on another load of coolant and refill it again just for the sake of easiness!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, With a hole as big as thermostat, I'm sure you will lose most of the coolant down to that level, if air can get in through the hole then coolant will get out. 
If your milk bottle had been solid & not soft or hole had been smaller, less water would have been lost.
Hoggy.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hi Wilson,

How much easier was it by crawling under the car and taking the under tray off than doing it from the top, I presume you have changed it using both methods, from the comments on Audiworld some have done it in 30 mins.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
carhopper
AudiWorld Newcomer
Garage is empty, add now

Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1

Default
Great write up. I have been contemplating doing mine for some time but removing the alternator and drive belt bummed me out. I had the tools you recommended and was truly done in 30 minutes.
__________________
TT 225 Quattro, Revo remap, BPV, 42DD downpipe

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Regards.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hoggy,

The air has to come in at the top to replace the water, it can`t get in through the thermostat hole, can you tell me what I need to block off, to stop air getting into the system, does all air enter via the header tank. I just want to test this but to do it all air must be stopped from entering system.

Regards.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

bobclive22 said:


> Hi Wilson,
> 
> How much easier was it by crawling under the car and taking the under tray off than doing it from the top, I presume you have changed it using both methods, from the comments on Audiworld some have done it in 30 mins.
> 
> ...


Hi, myself I took the under tray off, which is very simple, the part that took me ages was the bottom bolt, next time I will make sure I've got a 1/4 ratchet with wobble extension.

If you don't take the under tray off then still buy the fresh coolant and refill it with that.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Bob, if the hole is big enough air will get in, it may glug out, rather than gush but it will get out.
In theory if air can't get in water can't get out but it depends how big the outlet hole is.
I believe the Expansion cap will hold pressure, but will let some air in, so seal expansion cap hole with cling film & see if that helps. 
Hoggy.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Thanks Hoggy,

I noticed a rubber pipe attached to expansion chamber near the top where does that go, on the opposite side to that pipe again near the top there appears to be a plastic outlet built into the expansion chamber, will that let air in.

Rob.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Rob, That is to allow excess pressure to escape & will let air in if pressure drops below atmospheric. Clamp it off or seal cap with cling film to be sure.
Hoggy.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I changed mine today. I've been putting it off for months, so thanks for the printable guide!
I have a few observations about the guide though:

1. On a 180, there's no clip to remove on the front engine plastic (around the dipstick). It's just two bolts.

2. The dipstick took quite some force to remove. Mine broke on the inside and outside of the bottom, so I had a long screwdriver and a mallet to knock the outside off. The inside came *mostly* out in bits. A couple of bits dropped inside the tube. I did swear. I've left them in and hope these won't get into somewhere on the engine that will cause a problem?

4. Two 10" ratchet extensions are enough to reach the bolts. The universal joint is essential.

5. I left the car standing with the bonnet open for 40 minutes after returning from Halfords with my ratchet extensions and magnetic pick-up. The coolant gooshed out when I pulled the pipe off the housing! Presumably mine was still under some pressure. Luckily it was just warm, not scorching. I used about 2 litres topping the system back up.

6. I had to look-up the americanisms. A "channellock" is just pliers wide enough to get over the pipe clamp. "Ty-rap" are cable ties.

7. I forgot to disconnect my battery. I lived. Should I be dead?

8. Pagination of the guide is out. The text is on the page after the photo it refers to.

I now have my temperature on the dash reading spot-on 90, so I'm very pleased.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Photos taken today:


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## Josh225 (Jul 1, 2012)

Hi guys, could anyone tell me the symptoms for a faulty thermostat? I changed my engine coolant temp sensor the other day and the same fault code came back the day later, implausible signal or something but it's a brand new sensor? Also my engine temperature takes about 20 minutes to get to 90*c where's before I changed it, it seemed to rise a lot faster. Just wondering if this was normal or I need a new thermostat aswell? One more thing you know when you initially start your car it idles at about 1000 rpm for a minute and then drops in one fluid motion down? Well mine seems to have stopped dropping in one fluid motion and is dropping by mm's at a time. Is this normal or something else needs fixing? Sorry for the essay thanks!


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

My symptoms were that the maximum the dash gauge ever got to was midway between 50 and 90. I did the code on the aircon and that gave the same corresponding reading. I changed my temp sensor just in case, as it was a simple cheap job, but it had no effect.


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## Josh225 (Jul 1, 2012)

What do you mean you did the aircon? I'm going to sound like an idiot now but the thermostat controls the aircon too? Would explain my aircon not working properly I thought it just needed gassing? Thanks for the help pug


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Josh225 said:


> What do you mean you did the aircon? I'm going to sound like an idiot now but the thermostat controls the aircon too? Would explain my aircon not working properly I thought it just needed gassing? Thanks for the help pug


Hi Josh, You can check the actual coolant temp by using Code 49c on Climate Control. If it shows the same low temp as gauge it's usually the thermostat req replacing. Click link follow instructions. Code 49c not Code 51 c.




.
Dash gauge is weighted & will show 90 when actual coolant temp is any where between 82 & 98.
Hoggy.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Hoggy you beat me to it again.


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## Josh225 (Jul 1, 2012)

Thanks lads


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## Jaylad (Sep 21, 2013)

Got mine changed today by a mobile guy and a mate ;-)
He did it from the top,jacked car up on drivers side and fluid fell into his clean bowl and reused it when filling up,added about another litre or so :wink: 
When I asked about him doing it I said should take about an hour for you,his reply,iv done them hour jobs before,with a smile,and he was right.
The first thing to do was remove the plastic cover by the dipstick easy ?
Not so much,couldn't get the screws undone and had to drill them out,so while he fixed the car I fixed the bracket,still only took just over 1 1/2 hours,but we do chat a bit lol
Took it out and up to 90 on dash in 3miles,so I'm a happy bunny.
Next stop oil pick up check (looking for a how too before I ask mr mobile lol),and some springs


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Is water from a dehumidifier classed as deionised ? Or is it usable for mixing with coolant ?


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## c4z (Aug 15, 2011)

mullum said:


> Is water from a dehumidifier classed as deionised ? Or is it usable for mixing with coolant ?


It's only 99p in tescos you tight git :lol:


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

mullum said:


> Is water from a dehumidifier classed as deionised ? Or is it usable for mixing with coolant ?


Distilled maybe?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

c4z said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> > Is water from a dehumidifier classed as deionised ? Or is it usable for mixing with coolant ?
> ...


Tescos ? You tight git, I buy the proper stuff made by TripleQX :lol:

Seriously though, how is the water from a dehumidifier different ?


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Water from a dehumidifier is condensed not distilled and not deionised. It is perfectly fine for mixing with coolant. As it rainwater put through a coffee filter.

You do not need deionised water for coolant. You need it for topping up batteries as the hydrogen ions in normal water mess up the electrolyte. If like me you live in an area with very soft water you can use it straight from the tap if you leave it in clear bottles in sunlight for a few hours. (this removes any chlorine)


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## Jaylad (Sep 21, 2013)

Or just boil a couple of litres in the kettle ?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cheers Brian for the answer to the question.
And sorry to hear about your ribs fella, hope they heal fast.


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## mike225 (Apr 22, 2013)

Just buy deionised water from ecp for £4, job done


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Jaylad said:


> Or just boil a couple of litres in the kettle ?


No, the problem with hard water is dissolved minerals it furrs up the inside of the engine and can cause blockages. Boiling won't remove them.



mullum said:


> Cheers Brian for the answer to the question.
> And sorry to hear about your ribs fella, hope they heal fast.


Thanks buddy, bloody sore now and getting in and out the car is awful.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

mike225 said:


> Just buy deionised water from ecp for £4, job done


mike we're well aware of how and where to buy deionised water from thanks. We're now discussing the definition of deionised vs distilled.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

brian1978 said:


> Water from a dehumidifier is condensed not distilled and not deionised.


I'm a *few* years beyond education, but I think it has to evaporate before it can condense, which will distil it from any additives.


----------



## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Pugwash69 said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> > Water from a dehumidifier is condensed not distilled and not deionised.
> ...


Distillation is different, it does have to evaporative, condensation is then it returns to a liquid. Distillation is when you remove and collect volatile impurities which are mixed with water, like ethanol 

Well thinking about it I suppose it could be described as distilled water. But that's not normal what you would describe it as.


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, It depends how far the process is taken, taken to the extremes for both, Distilled will be purer, but because of the energy required to boil/cool & dry steam is required for absolute purity it will always be more expensive. 
So depends how pure the final product has to be.
Hoggy.


----------



## c4z (Aug 15, 2011)

How about the RO water from my filter that I use for my marine tank?


----------



## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

c4z said:


> How about the RO water from my filter that I use for my marine tank?


What's RO


----------



## c4z (Aug 15, 2011)

Reverse osmosis water. Used for Marine fish tanks.


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## bobclive22 (Apr 5, 2010)

Pugwash69 said ,

The coolant gushed out when I pulled the pipe off the housing! Presumably mine was still under some pressure.

If you didn`t clamp the pipe it would.

How much water came out from behind the thermostat.


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## Stampers (Sep 16, 2009)

Pugwash69 said:


> I changed mine today. I've been putting it off for months, so thanks for the printable guide!
> I have a few observations about the guide though:
> 
> 1. On a 180, there's no clip to remove on the front engine plastic (around the dipstick). It's just two bolts.
> ...





Pugwash69 said:


> My symptoms were that the maximum the dash gauge ever got to was midway between 50 and 90. I did the code on the aircon and that gave the same corresponding reading. I changed my temp sensor just in case, as it was a simple cheap job, but it had no effect.


Very helpful there mate!
Only wish I'd found this thread a couple of weeks ago as I thought the same things as yourself and replaced my coolant temp sensor in the hope that it would solve this issue. Only since thinking about it did I realise that it may be the thermostat causing this problem instead.

Looks like I'll be buying a new thermostat and attempting to fit it this weekend!

In difficulty terms, was it hard at all?
From reading the write-ups, I've heard its pretty straightforward, I just don't want to attempt it, realise I've broken or lost something, and then have to wheel it down the road to my local spanner-monkey.

And is it always worth buying an OEM part, or would something like a Meyle thermostat be fine?


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## Stevey83 (Oct 16, 2011)

I found it quite hard to get the bottom thermo housing out. I smashed it off in the end, so I had the change the housing as well! A bit over kill I know. Having the correct tools would have helped I.e ball ended Allen keys.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Stampers said:


> And is it always worth buying an OEM part, or would something like a Meyle thermostat be fine?


Always use an OE thermostat.


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## wilson (Feb 20, 2012)

Very very straight forward job providing you have the essential tools a quarter inch ratchet socket extensions and must have the wobbly joint bit on the extension (is it called universal joint?) very very fiddly and time consuming without!


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Took me about an hour at most the first time. Half an hour the second time.


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

The only problem i had when changing mine was that the plastic/screw type thing on the black plastic plate in front of the inlet manifold was totally stripped. Took me about an hour to get that plastic cover off. :x


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## James1050S3 (Sep 7, 2013)

> 7. I forgot to disconnect my battery. I lived. Should I be dead?


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## c4z (Aug 15, 2011)

BaueruTc said:


> The only problem i had when changing mine was that the plastic/screw type thing on the black plastic plate in front of the inlet manifold was totally stripped. Took me about an hour to get that plastic cover off. :x


So was one of mine - I drilled it out in 2 mins :lol: 
This is a good guide - I used it when doing mine. I took off the alternator earth for a bit more room. Whole job
inc coolant change took 1 1/2 hours using the tools listed in the guide. And yes, I broke the dipstick tube.
Got all the parts/coolant from TPS for £34 inc.


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## benmatti (Sep 28, 2013)

What is TPS? Probably be obvious once you've said it haha


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

benmatti said:


> What is TPS? Probably be obvious once you've said it haha


Trade Part Specialists


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## thirtytwopence (Oct 11, 2013)

This is the job for the up coming weekend...
Anyone know a rough cost of the thermostat and associated parts from Audi?
Think I'll order the plastic housing incase too and my dipstick guide is already broken...

Also, what's the best and quickest way to flush the coolant? 
In the past i've just kept refilling the system with water, running the engine a bit, then draining again. Takes ages to run clean though, anything I can do to speed this up?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

thirtytwopence said:


> This is the job for the up coming weekend...
> Anyone know a rough cost of the thermostat and associated parts from Audi?
> Think I'll order the plastic housing incase too and my dipstick guide is already broken...
> 
> ...


viewtopic.php?t=56316


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## benmatti (Sep 28, 2013)

thirtytwopence said:


> This is the job for the up coming weekend...
> Anyone know a rough cost of the thermostat and associated parts from Audi?
> Think I'll order the plastic housing incase too and my dipstick guide is already broken...
> 
> ...


42 quid all in at my local Audi. just ordered bits for this weekend that's for thermostat 'o' ring dipstic and coolant


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

benmatti said:


> thirtytwopence said:
> 
> 
> > This is the job for the up coming weekend...
> ...


Mine cost me £45.52 for the same - I've been had! :x :x (£11ish was for a litre of coolant).

TPS was slightly cheaper but didn't have one in stock.

I managed to do it without breaking the dipstick tube, but decided seeing as I'd bought it to change it anyway. One of screws on the front plastic was nearly rounded off and seized. Carefully with lots of WD40 and my biggest flat head screwdriver got it out.

I'm going to add my name to the non draining list. Pulled the hose off without clamping it and lost a bit, then pulling the thermostat out and quickly putting the new one in I lost a bit more. I only needed to add about a litre, maybe 1 1/2 to get the level back to where it was.

I removed the plug, large cable and cable clamp from the alternator (battery disconnected) for extra space.

Washed the front of the engine down afterwards with plenty of water. Sits at 85-90 now. Happy.

Took me about 1 1/2 hours including a bit of faffing about with other things in between. I got one of these from Halfords http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255215 for £12.99 with my trade card  And a couple of extensions made reasonably light work of the bottom bolt. Magnetic pickup was also very useful.


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## arichmond64 (Dec 1, 2011)

Can anyone help me with my problem.

My temp gauge goes to 90 when I'm driving, but at any point when I stop and idel, or cruise to a stop at some lights or something, it drops down to just above 75 I believe.

Does this sound like a broken Thermostat?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

arichmond64 said:


> Can anyone help me with my problem.
> 
> My temp gauge goes to 90 when I'm driving, but at any point when I stop and idel, or cruise to a stop at some lights or something, it drops down to just above 75 I believe.
> 
> Does this sound like a broken Thermostat?


Hi, Appears to be giving completely opposite temp reading for faulty stat. 
Check actual coolant temp by using Code 49c on Climate Control, to see if it shows the same as gauge.
Click link follow insructions. Code 49c not Code 51c.





Hoggy.


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## arichmond64 (Dec 1, 2011)

Right, just been out and give the car a good seeing too! 

Checked the climatecontrol codes and 49c was going between 78 and 85, I noticed when it dropped to 79, the needle would drop from 90 to 80 straight away, then rise again once the climatecontrol showed 80+, but it never got over 85.
Basically when I stop at a traffic lights, it will drop to 78/78, then rise again when driving, to no more than 85.

I did notice that it went up to 85 when I was idling on my driveway though after I got home.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Sounds like a slow thermostat - basically sticking open too long rather than snapping shut to keep the engine warm when you lift off the accelerator on overrun - slowing down for lights etc. - i.e. no petrol burnt but still cooled by airflow through radiator. The needle is weighted to read 90 for temperature between 80 and 100 but rapidly shows reality outside this comfort zone.


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

arichmond64 said:


> Right, just been out and give the car a good seeing too!
> 
> Checked the climatecontrol codes and 49c was going between 78 and 85, I noticed when it dropped to 79, the needle would drop from 90 to 80 straight away, then rise again once the climatecontrol showed 80+, but it never got over 85.
> Basically when I stop at a traffic lights, it will drop to 78/78, then rise again when driving, to no more than 85.
> ...


This sounds pretty much like ours was, except our gauge is over-reading and assumed dead so 49C is the only reading we have.

We were getting slightly lower, sitting at around 75-80*C I think. It occasionally crept up to 85*C but only after a proper run and sitting stationary with the air con off.

I'm told that the guage is calibrated to sit at 90 if the temp is between 80-100, so when it drops do 79 your needle dropping sounds correct.

A thermostat sorted ours out and now sits between 85-90.

(I'm new to TTs though so check with others aswell).


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi arichmond64 , Now you've stated it rises when hot engine left ticking over for a while, that confirms stat requires replacing.
Hoggy.


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

This may be a remarkably stupid question. But I have been getting the thermostat fault code on my liquid TT for quite some time. (Well over 6 months)

Cold conditions throw up the warning light more often than warm.

May I ask what issues this faulty thermostat causes? And the benefits of getting it sorted?

Many thanks.


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## arichmond64 (Dec 1, 2011)

Thanks for the help guys, this forum is a freaking diamond! I wouldn't even want a TT without this place, too stressful!

I've read a little on here about replacement, fairly easy to do?

Edit: Am I right in thinking it's not actually damaging to the car, it's just a thermostat to give a reading for the dash pod?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

simno44 said:


> This may be a remarkably stupid question. But I have been getting the thermostat fault code on my liquid TT for quite some time. (Well over 6 months)
> 
> Cold conditions throw up the warning light more often than warm.
> 
> ...


Hi, A cool running engine will be running rich, not good for engine or wallet long term.
Shows up more during colder weather.
Hoggy.


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

arichmond64 said:


> Thanks for the help guys, this forum is a freaking diamond! I wouldn't even want a TT without this place, too stressful!
> 
> I've read a little on here about replacement, fairly easy to do?


Easy enough with the right tools.

Decent 1/4" drive ratchet, couple of extensions, a universal joint and a 10mm socket.
5mm ball allen key.
Couple of decent screwdrivers for undoing the engine trim screws.
Mole grips/pump pliers to remove the hose clamp.
8mm socket for alternator cable clamp.
13mm socket for alternator live feed cable. **MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED IF YOU UNDO THIS**
Magnetic extendable pickup - great if you drop anything down onto the engine tray and useful for getting the bottom thermostat screw out and back in again.

There's a lot of chat on here and other forums I found saying how awful a job it is, it's a little bit fiddly but with the right tools it's no real problem.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

phil5556 said:


> 13mm socket for alternator earth cable.


That's not the earth cable. It's the live feed to the battery from the alternator. The alternator earths through its body to the engine block.

So if you do remove this make sure you disconnect the battery first since this will be live.


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## arichmond64 (Dec 1, 2011)

phil5556 said:


> arichmond64 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the help guys, this forum is a freaking diamond! I wouldn't even want a TT without this place, too stressful!
> ...


I'll have a good look at the how to and try it myself, my Dad has plenty of tools, even got the magnetic pickup.

Should I just change the coolant while I'm at it, I'm fairly sure it's never been flushed in atleast 4 years, is this a long time for it to have not been done?


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## thirtytwopence (Oct 11, 2013)

arichmond64 said:


> phil5556 said:
> 
> 
> > arichmond64 said:
> ...


If it's looking more brown than pink, which it probably will be, it's best to change it. You'll have to buy G12++ to top up anyway so you may as well replace it.
That's my thinking anyway


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

L33JSA said:


> phil5556 said:
> 
> 
> > 13mm socket for alternator earth cable.
> ...


Oops, you're right! Battery was disconnected anyway, make sure you do yours too!

Will go and edit post.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

thirtytwopence said:


> You'll have to buy G12++


Its G13 now. But yes might as well just change all of it.


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## arichmond64 (Dec 1, 2011)

> If it's looking more brown than pink, which it probably will be, it's best to change it. You'll have to buy G12++ to top up anyway so you may as well replace it.
> That's my thinking anyway


It still looks fairly pink to be fair, I'll have a better look in the morning. I've already picked up 1 litre of G12++, but I suspect this isn't enough is it?


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Hoggy said:


> simno44 said:
> 
> 
> > This may be a remarkably stupid question. But I have been getting the thermostat fault code on my liquid TT for quite some time. (Well over 6 months)
> ...


Thanks Hoggy. Sounds like something I need to think about doing then. I tend to get the warning code on most trips that require a lengthy stretch at steady speed.

How much to the replacement thermostats cost just out of interest? Anyone any links to places where I could pick them up at a good price?


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/car-thermostat

Any good?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hi Simno, the consensus is that you should invest in an OEM stat.
The part numbers are 050 121 113 B and C - check which one you need first. 
You'll also probably want to buy a new o-ring as well - ECP sell those for about £0.85 but if you're buying the stat from the stealers you might prefer to get it at the same time ;-)


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## thirtytwopence (Oct 11, 2013)

Just ordered my parts from Audi.
If anyone's interested:
Thermostat: £28.24
O ring: £3.24
Thermostat housing: £5.87.


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Got the lot from my local car parts, OEM thermostat and correct
coolant all for less than £15

Win lol

Thanks guys.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

simno44 said:


> OEM thermostat


It won't be a proper OEM thermostat - guaranteed there wont be any VAG group markings on it or VAG part number.

No WIN I'm afraid....only a big fat FAIL!


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## Kyle18uk (Jul 3, 2012)

Id deffo go to audi and get a genuine one, changed mine a few months ago with one from euro car parts and now needs changing again to a genuine one

Trust me you will end up swapping to a genuine one eventually


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## damondavies (Jan 29, 2014)

Yeah, I recently got this OEM one from TTSHOP. http://www.thettshop.com/oem.asp?cat=2006&product=50003

has all the markings and Part no as discussed. 

D


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

This job..... Ruined my evening, my hands.. And my mental health.

FML!


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## damondavies (Jan 29, 2014)

I did mine this evening too, that bottom bolt is evil. Having the right tools is a must.

She is sitting at 90 now, lovely! Oh replaced the dipstick holder too! 

Sent from my HTC One mini using Tapatalk


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Dip stick holder is one for me to look at later. It didn't crumble it but I seem to have snapped the lower insert in the metal housing.

Appropriate Tools are a must. I only had basic socket sets.

Lost my socket head twice, the bolt 3 times and ended up having to rove the under tray. Easyer than if looks when on ramps.

Funny question am I imagining that the car air con is heating faster and warmer??? Or is that an added benefit?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I believe that is indeed what's supposed to happen - my heater is also functioning correctly again after a new stat.


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Brilliant. Now all I need to see is fuel efficiency


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## damondavies (Jan 29, 2014)

Strange but after fitting mine, the car seem to run smoother aswell.. Maybe thats placebo? ha! 

D


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Hi Guys,
I've been reading lots of threads about the Thermostat and the Temperature Sensor, as I thought I had a fault with my Thermostat, now I'm not sure. Here's what's happened.
I do lots of short journeys.. e.g. 6 miles to work, and 6 back again. The temp on the 49C gets between 60 and 70. I thought the thermostat might need a change. So, before rushing in I did the tickover test from cold, on the drive. The 49C temp and the temp gauge readings were in sync all through the warm up. After about 20-30mins. The 49C reading had reached 100, the temp gauge was correct at 90, compensated, as it should do. I measured the temp of the coolant, using a milk thermometer, it read about 85. As the car had not been driven, maybe you would expect the water bottle to be a little cooler than the rest. 
The car is 225 from 2002, an early facelift... maybe it has the 87 Degree Thermostat?
So, does this mean that the thermostat is actually fine... and it's just my very short journey's not giving the car a chance to get up to magic 90? 
Thanks


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

I would say mine is the same but I'm Sure it can't be the case.


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## benmatti (Sep 28, 2013)

A good test there would of been once it had got to 90-100 degrees on standstill take it for a drive chances are the temps will go back to 70.

Sat at traffics lights it would reach 90 but as soon as I set off and got moving it went back to 70. 49C read same as dash.

I just changed mine yesterday. and problem fixed running how it should

hope this helps

Ben


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Ah I see... yea, if it drops back down to 70, would confirm the thermostat is duff. Thanks for that.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

simno44 said:


> Brilliant. Now all I need to see is fuel efficiency


Despite general opinion, my fuel economy wasn't affected enough to notice even running at 70c for months.


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Do you use VPower ?


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

No. I vary between 95 and 97 petrol too, depending on which pumps I'm at with my fuelgenie card.


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## manikm (Feb 17, 2014)

i do 4 miles to work = and as soon as i got in it this morning, i used the ACcode to monitor the temp - when i got to work i was only at 68c

is my thermostat wrong? to me, based on other cars id say this is normal. it seems weird that a car should get to 90c so quick.

so what should be happening - should it be reaching 90 within 4 miles??? i will do this tickover test in the morning, to see if it gets to 90 on standstill - then drive it to garage as a guy is gonna take a quick look, he thinks it might be coolant issue.

surely if the thermostat is broke then it would move from 55 - 70 - the dial is matching the climate control code.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi manikm, Replace thermostat, should reach 90 ish within 4 miles.
If warm/hot engine rises to 90 while stationary, raise rpm to 1500 to speed it up, then that confirms stat has failed open or slow to close.
Hoggy.


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Had some motorway driving this weekend... this has confirmed I need to do the thermostat. It never got above 71 Degrees.
Genuine Thermostat and Seal ordered and will treat it to a coolant flush and re-load of a 50/50 mix of G13 and Distilled Water. I've ordered 3 litres of G13, which should cover it.
Probably get my local indie to do it, so it gets done sooner rather than later.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Here's a graph of temperature against time on mine, from a cold start on a cold day.
The horizontal scale is a bit oddly labelled but it's in HH:MM:SS format.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

How did you get that graph pug ?


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> Had some motorway driving this weekend... this has confirmed I need to do the thermostat. It never got above 71 Degrees.
> Genuine Thermostat and Seal ordered and will treat it to a coolant flush and re-load of a 50/50 mix of G13 and Distilled Water. I've ordered 3 litres of G13, which should cover it.
> Probably get my local indie to do it, so it gets done sooner rather than later.


3 litres, are you starting a shop, I think I only needed 1l diluted.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

mullum said:


> How did you get that graph pug ?


I logged coolant temp in Torque on my phone. I copied the .csv it created to my PC and loaded into Excel.
The bottom scale is device time minus the start time.


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

brian1978 said:


> wabbit_of_cc said:
> 
> 
> > Had some motorway driving this weekend... this has confirmed I need to do the thermostat. It never got above 71 Degrees.
> ...


...ah, interesting. I read a thread that said on flush of the system, you'd need about 5.5 litres... so thought, go for 2 x 1.5 litres of G13, plus 3 litres of Distilled. Does that not sound correct?


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## thirtytwopence (Oct 11, 2013)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> > wabbit_of_cc said:
> ...


Have a look on the back of the bottle when you get it, it states 2:3 mix, G13:Water. Any stronger is overkill for our climate and doesn't help the car.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

wabbit_of_cc said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> > wabbit_of_cc said:
> ...


When I drained my system it didn't fill a 2ltr coke bottle.


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## NoMark (Jul 6, 2011)

thirtytwopence said:


> wabbit_of_cc said:
> 
> 
> > wabbit_of_cc said:
> ...


That's 2/3rds surely? Higher than 50:50, or am talking rubbish (which is more than possible)?


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## NoMark (Jul 6, 2011)

brian1978 said:


> When I drained my system it didn't fill a 2ltr coke bottle.


Couldn't have been fully drained Brian.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

NoMark said:


> 2/3rds surely? Higher than 50:50, or am talking rubbish (which is more than possible)?


2:3 2 parts coolant to 3 parts water. That's less concentrated than 50:50


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## NoMark (Jul 6, 2011)

brian1978 said:


> NoMark said:
> 
> 
> > 2/3rds surely? Higher than 50:50, or am talking rubbish (which is more than possible)?
> ...


Yes of course it is, knew I was being stupid. It's equivalent to 2/5ths in old money. Showing my age now.


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## manikm (Feb 17, 2014)

brian1978 said:


> wabbit_of_cc said:
> 
> 
> > Had some motorway driving this weekend... this has confirmed I need to do the thermostat. It never got above 71 Degrees.
> ...


my man used 3 litres also.

maybe thats why it cost £160 !!


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

manikm said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> > wabbit_of_cc said:
> ...


3 litres of coolant diluted correctly makes nearly 8litres of coolant.



NoMark said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> > When I drained my system it didn't fill a 2ltr coke bottle.
> ...


Yea I lost another litre onto the drive when I popped the old stat out.

1 bottle of concentrated g13 was more then enough once diluted though.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

manikm said:


> maybe thats why it cost £160 !!


He saw you coming.... :lol:


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

1ltr was plenty for me. And I wasn't particularly hasty with the switch over.

Something else to mention for anyone wanting to do this, for anyone that can reset their throttle body after the job.. Do it!

i reset my throttle body last night using my liquid TT and I an definitely getting more kick and a smoother drive.


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

simno44 said:


> 1ltr was plenty for me. And I wasn't particularly hasty with the switch over.
> 
> Something else to mention for anyone wanting to do this, for anyone that can reset their throttle body after the job.. Do it!
> 
> i reset my throttle body last night using my liquid TT and I an definitely getting more kick and a smoother drive.


You don't need a liquid or vag-com to reset the TB, just disconnect the -ve on the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it. Then turn the key but don't start the car. Leave it for 3 minutes, you will hear the TB clicking and whirring whilst the ecu decides where it should be, when it stops calibrating (about 3 minutes) remove the key, then put it in and start the car normally.

Done.


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## simno44 (Aug 25, 2012)

Yeah. I couldn't be bothered explaining that haha.


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## wabbit_of_cc (Jan 27, 2013)

Finally got round to getting the Thermostat changed.
I'd be running at a temp 65 to 70, as per the 49C test, rarely getting to the magic 90.
problem solved! 
It now warms up quickly to 90, and stays there.
Had a coolant flush too, went for a 50 50 with G13 and distilled water.
Cost £118 (inc VAT) for two hours labour, I supplied the Audi parts, as I had already bought them.
Work carried out by Audi/Porsche Indie called Brookspeed, Eastleigh, nr Southampton. They gave me a 10% discount for TTOC member. These guys are good, very good! ...tell them Greg mentioned them on the Forum.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well done Mr Wabbit


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## Stan2515 (May 15, 2014)

Pugwash69 said:


> Photos taken today:


Planning to do my stat this weekend or next. Is this Triple QX stuff from ECP the same as G13? Will buy an Audi stat but plan to flush the coolant and replace expansion tank 'while I'm in there'' messing about with coolant.

Thanks.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I've got triple qx g13 in mine.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I can't remember who said it was fine to use, but I've had no problems since putting it in.


----------

