# Re-sync key fob.



## Philwalfc (Oct 1, 2013)

Hi guys, I hope you don't mind me asking for help. I did a foolish thing today. 
My key fob wouldn't operate the central locking so I changed the battery. It still didn't work, so I took the battery out of the other fob to try that one. I didn't realise they had to be re-synced, so now, yes you've guessed it, I've now got 2 keys that need re-syncing....  
I just wondered if it is still possible to rectify my stupid mistake. I have tried putting one key in ignition in the on position then pressing the lock button on the other key then locking the door manually. If I press any button it will make the indicators flash once. It does this for the next 4 presses, then nothing after. 
I've tried the same procedure with no key in the ignition but I get nothing at all. 
Could anyone help please. 
Thanks.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Sure, but your sequence is a little off:
1. One key in ignition in on position, but engine stopped.
2. Other key in the drivers door lock from outside and lock with key manually.
3. Then, with key still in lock and within a few seconds, press UNLOCK button ONCE on that key. Indicators will flash.
4. Remove key from door lock, wait 10 seconds and test. That key should be re-synced with car.

Repeat with keys reversed to program second key, but at step 4 press UNLOCK button TWICE (to code key to second memory position).
Repeat for up to 4 keys with appropriate button presses for each memory position.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Always works for me. 
resync the C/L
Press lock or unlock on Fob & within 1 minute lock or unlock using key in door, repeat more than once.
If that fails press lock or unlock twice, before using key in door as it may be key No.2
Hoggy.


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## graham_TT (Feb 27, 2017)

yes this method worked for me just got my car came with 3 keys 1 was working 1 not changed the battery did this method and its working perfect. changed the battery on the 1 that was working aswell now have 2 working key fobs with new batteries in them.


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## Philwalfc (Oct 1, 2013)

Thanks guys. I will try your suggestions in the morning as I'm at work tonight. I will post the results.


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## Philwalfc (Oct 1, 2013)

well just to update you, i now have 2 working key fobs  . i did it the way you suggested PCBBC. it all happened as you said, but when i tried the fobs after 10 seconds, they clicked as though they were unlocking the car, i thought great, but then nothing happened after that. so i went back into my home, had a coffee, then i was going to retry the procedure. i got outside and pressed the fob without thinking and voila, it was working. i tried the other fob, and it too was working  . 
so a big thank you to PCBBC and Hoggy. really appreciate it.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Philwalfc said:


> So a big thank you to PCBBC and Hoggy. really appreciate it.


No problem! Great to be able to help.
Not quite sure why it didn't work first time for you though?

Have become quite a key expert recently having made up a complete spare from parts on eBay. Coding the immobiliser was fun....


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## Philwalfc (Oct 1, 2013)

That sounds a bit technical, but interesting. I bet it saved you a bit of money though


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Philwalfc said:


> That sounds a bit technical, but interesting. I bet it saved you a bit of money though


Well, I hope so...
£8.95 Second hand key (for remote module)
£3.99 New key shell and blank blade
£7.50 2 blank transponder chips (only need one)
£10.00 Locksmith to cut new key
£16.95 ODB cable and CAN Commander (to recover SKC from ECU)
Total £47.39

Already had VCDS needed to program transponder. Certainly cheaper than the dealers I would imagine?

The point at which I ended up with two keys, neither of which could start the car, was a bit hairy!

Unfortunately I also purchased the wrong key to start with (1 battery version instead of 2), only to discover remote protocol was incompatible with my car. So have fully refurbished 4D0837231K blank key going spare... Should really get round to posting on eBay to recover some costs.


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## georgie2004 (Sep 21, 2017)

Good Morning!

I am also having this issue after replacing the battery to the FOB. PLEASE HELP!!!! I have a 2009 Audi TT.


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## HelW (Jul 25, 2017)

A week ago I had a flat battery and car was jump started by breakdown people and went ok for 3 days. Battery then drained again and it became obvious I had an electrical fault as windows, lights and CD player were doing odd things. Managed to charge battery and get car to auto-electricians and it is sorted - it was a faulty brake light sensor which has now been replaced but.....I can't lock car remotely! Have changed remote battery and tried some of the things suggested on here to sync but still can't lock the car. The button for locking that's inside the car locks and unlocks car but the key won't. I can't even lock the door manually with the key - the barrel seems faulty as I can just turn it clockwise and anti clockwise a half turn each time. I've never used the manual lock before. It's a 2005 1.8 Audi TT. Any suggestions? By the way, I only have one key!!! Thanks guys.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi HelW, Has it ever locked using the Fob ? If you can't lock it with the key in door it's more than a Fob problem.
Is it a roadster ?
Hoggy.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

For the life of me I cannot get mine to work remotely. So I'm just going to buy a new complete key fob


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

HOGG said:


> For the life of me I cannot get mine to work remotely. So I'm just going to buy a new complete key fob


Hi, Get an auto locksmith to check if Fob is actually sending a signal, otherwise maybe just wasting money on a new fob. 
Hoggy.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Yesterday my remote wouldn't work, had to unlock manually. Once I got home it was normal. This is the second time this has happened.

Changed the battery, tried a resynch procedure, no joy. Walked indoors andcread the owners handbook. Walked outdoors with both keys, and both worked. WTF ??

I recall seeing something about a key signal receiver module in the boot area, maybe mine has a loose connection or something. Anybody know about this ??

If my key signal fails I just use the blade to open the door, the missus might not be so savvy so I don't want her stuck and stressed.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Pukmeister said:


> Yesterday my remote wouldn't work, had to unlock manually. Once I got home it was normal. This is the second time this has happened.
> 
> Changed the battery, tried a resynch procedure, no joy. Walked indoors andcread the owners handbook. Walked outdoors with both keys, and both worked. WTF ??
> 
> ...


Hi Puk, hope you find something on this because as seen in my thread both of my keys are dead too, the resync procedures don't work and I can't even so much as get the keys to make the indicators flash even once. The central locking button in the actual car between the seats doesn't work by clicking it any more either, I need to hold one of the buttons down for it to work and unlock or lock the car! Very odd how this has happened to us at the same time and the resync procedures aren't working. I've also changed batteries in both my keyfobs too.

It's almost as if there's two different levels off losing sync... Semi-loss where resync procedure will fix it and then full loss where the code on the chip in the key needs re-coding or something? Maybe you're onto something with what you're saying about a key signal receiver module in the boot. Hopefully someone sheds some light on that!


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## NorthernMonkey (Mar 21, 2010)

Just want to say thanks for this thread! Had a spare key which I thought was just a flat battery. Changed that and it still didn't work. Gave and put it in a drawer. Stumbled across this thread, followed the resync instructions. Hey presto! One working spare key! Thanks


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

One key playing up again today......bloody nuisance !


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

-


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Hmmm, something glitchy going on in this thread. I made multiple posts replying to what you've said Puk but none of them have shown up, yet the reply count in the thread is now on 16!

Any way, I'll sum up what I said, can't be bothered typing it all out again...

Puk!

My car has done the same thing very recently, both key fobs don't work, changed batteries, still don't work... Reset procedures? All 10 different ones I've tried (slight hyperbole) none of them work. Car indicators don't even respond like people say they're supposed to... Centre console lock and unlock has to be held down for it to work, not just a simple one click so I'm thinking we have the same problem.

Will you let me know what happens regarding digging some info out on the boot receiver sender thingy you mentioned? I feel maybe it was the cold snap that hit our cars and finally perished this part perhaps? Which is why our keys are suddenly not working, seems too much of a coincidence that both of us suffered this fate around the time conditions went to below 5 degrees for a few days straight!


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Thanks Tom.

I managed to get both fobs working, now its back to one fob only since yesterday. Really weird behaviour.

Agreed the forum is also misbehaving strangely with my replies on this thread too, some kind of witchcraft from the recent halloween perhaps upsetting both car and forum ?


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## NorthernMonkey (Mar 21, 2010)

Yeah I posted yesterday about how helpful this thread was. Gave up on my spare key after changing the battery. Followed the instructions on here. Hey presto! Working spare key


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## ttroy225 (May 18, 2002)

I've got this problem too.. My car hardly gets used maybe 800 miles a year and have only recently bought a trickle charger. I wonder if a prolonged low battery could of had an effect .

Will be keeping an eye on this thread.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Pukmeister said:


> Thanks Tom.
> 
> I managed to get both fobs working, now its back to one fob only since yesterday. Really weird behaviour.
> 
> Agreed the forum is also misbehaving strangely with my replies on this thread too, some kind of witchcraft from the recent halloween perhaps upsetting both car and forum ?


What on Earth did you do? Or was it a fluke? I'm surprised that no one knows what to do when keys won't sync as this most have happened to people before over the last 20 years... At the end of the day I know the keys are coded and I've changed the batteries so really unsure what's left other than something in the car being at fault rather than the keys.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

I tried using the good key turned in the ignition switch (engine off with dash lit), bad key (with new battery) in door:

Pressed lock button then locked with bad key blade. Unlocked door with bad key blade. Removed bad key.

Tried bad key remote buttons, still bad.

30 minutes later, bad key working properly same as good key. Absolutely no idea how/why ??

Tried bad key next day, back to not working again ???

I'm thinking of buying another pack of new CR2032 cells and changing/resynching bad key again just in case I have replaced one weak key fob battery with another.


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## NorthernMonkey (Mar 21, 2010)

Hi mate,

You say you pressed lock button and then turned key blade? I did it the other way around. Good key in ignition turned so lights come on, bad key in door lock, lock the car and then wait 10 seconds before clicking lock on the key fob. Worked a treat!


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Ah, trust me to get it wrong. I must give it a go later and see if it synchronises itself. Thanks for the advice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

NorthernMonkey said:


> You say you pressed lock button and then turned key blade? I did it the other way around. Good key in ignition turned so lights come on, bad key in door lock, lock the car and then wait 10 seconds before clicking lock on the key fob. Worked a treat!


When one key is in the ignition this is the re-program sequence (which is different from the re-sync process).
You are correct though - lock car physically with key first, then use lock button on fob to re-program.

Another very important point to note:
The number of times you (initially) press the lock button indicates the key slot being programmed. There are 4 key slots. Press the lock button the required number of times with about a second delay between each press.

Therefore, when reprogramming keys, it is always best to reprogram *ALL* keys as you very rarely know which working keys are paired with which slots. For the first key, press lock button once to indicate slot 1. For second key press lock button twice for slot 2, etc.

If you do not do this it is very likely that the original slot 1 key is in the ignition, and that in programming a new slot 1 key you wipe the programming of the ignition key. Then that key no-longer works, and you find yourself in a cycle of re-programming one key and then the other while simultaneously wondering - WTF :?:


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

I have no idea which key is 1 or 2, maybe thats why it worked for a while then stopped on the faulty key ?

My worry is that I might kill off both remote key functions and just be left with blade use only.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Pukmeister said:


> I have no idea which key is 1 or 2, maybe that's why it worked for a while then stopped on the faulty key ?


The keys have no knowledge of which is "1" or "2". There are just four different programming slots which the car keeps track of alone, each of which can be occupied by a single unique key.

As far as I know reprogramming a key to slot 1 will immediately disable any key already programmed to that slot. No way for that original key to "work for a while" and then stop.



> My worry is that I might kill off both remote key functions and just be left with blade use only.


That should't happen, or at least not by the re-programming sequence. Of course there are other failure modes which could result in this outcome (broken remotes, faulty batteries, failed controller etc).

I would suggest following the reprogramming sequence for both keys, coding one key in slot 1 (single press) and the other key in slot 2 (double press). And also doing the physical lock with the key first before pressing the fob button for the slot coding, which it appears you may not have been doing up until now.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Just nipped down the chippy in the TT, took both sets of keys with me. They both work. Haven't tried to recode them yet.

WTF ???


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Pukmeister said:


> Just nipped down the chippy in the TT, took both sets of keys with me. They both work. Haven't tried to recode them yet.


Leave them as is then. This obviously isn't a programming/sync issue.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Pukmeister said:


> Just nipped down the chippy in the TT, took both sets of keys with me. They both work. Haven't tried to recode them yet.
> 
> WTF ???


Must be Niiiiiice :x :lol:


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

pcbbc said:


> Leave them as is then. This obviously isn't a programming/sync issue.


No, but its weirding me out how one key has suddenly developed an intermittent fault, maybe a key button microswitch needs a squirt of contact cleaner.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Forum glitching again >_<


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## Ukaflyer (Nov 15, 2014)

I just went through the pain of both fobs not working after putting new batteries in.
Tried all the options I could find here and nothing worked, so started messing around with various combinations until I got them functioning again.

So this is what found worked for me

One key in the ignition and switched on with engine not started
Close drivers door and put key in lock
Push unlock button down and hold down
Keep unlock pushed and turn key to lock, then turn key to unlock, release unlock button
Remove key, open door and remove key in ignition
Key should now work

To set the failed key in ignition, follow same steps except when you lock, unlock you will need to lock and unlock again as this will set the second key to be number 2 key

Hope this helps someone

Regards,


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## Stewart j (Dec 20, 2021)

hi can you do this if you only have one key?



pcbbc said:


> Sure, but your sequence is a little off:
> 1. One key in ignition in on position, but engine stopped.
> 2. Other key in the drivers door lock from outside and lock with key manually.
> 3. Then, with key still in lock and within a few seconds, press UNLOCK button ONCE on that key. Indicators will flash.
> ...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

no...

the usual way to resync a remote is simply press unlock on the remote with a new fob battery and then manually unlock the car.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

With all this talk of re-syncing keys it might be useful for me to post a warning that if you only have 1 key for your car and want to buy another remote keyfob off the likes of eBay etc then don’t buy a new reproduction Chinese item , they’re junk and too unreliable.
It’s much wiser to buy a used Genuine Audi item (of the correct frequency /part number of course) and use that.
Don’t ask me how I know…..


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

When I spoke to Timpsons they said -
Take your :
1. Car
2. Driver licence
3. V5
4. Existing Working key

And they will program a new key for you - no idea of the cost... I only wanted an emergency key (which they didn't / couldn't do)


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## jules13 (Jan 3, 2021)

Fast fwd a few years , I can confirm that both methods (Hoggy's and pcbbc's) work on a 99 car.


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