# Front ARb bushes



## Andyvo (Feb 4, 2005)

Hi all.

Just this weekend my car has started squeeking very loudly whenever I go over speed humps. Not sure if this has been brought on by the recent warm weather or the work I have been having to replace the steering rack.

Going off some searches on the forum, I have diagnosed it to be the front ARB bushes. I managed to spray some lube onto the drivers side one and have done the same to the passenger side one but it still squeeks.

Just wondering, how easy are the bushes to take off and replace and / or smear with silicone grease? Does the ARB need to come off or can the bushes just be slid off the end?


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Andyvo said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Just this weekend my car has started squeeking very loudly whenever I go over speed humps. Not sure if this has been brought on by the recent warm weather or the work I have been having to replace the steering rack.
> 
> ...


You might want to try this:

Jack up one corner. Loosen the bolt holding the ARB bush in place, but don't let it fall out. By doing this you will have created a small gap between the ARB and the inner side of the bush which will allow you to insert a syringe filled with Waxoyl. Pump in the Waxoyl till it flows out freely. I have used this method. Waxoyl will not only lubricate but will also stop rust forming. My syringe is from a model shop connected with radio controlled racing cars. It's used to lubricate gears in particular. In order to get to the centre of the ARB bush I attached a drinking straw from one of those small juice cartons to the syringe. It sounds fiddly but it works. If your ARB is already rusted and the plastic sleeve is broken then you will need to fit the later ARB that doesn't have the plastic sleeve, and new bushes of course.

Joe

EDIT: Don't forget to re-tighten the bolts, obvious I know but still.......


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## HRD TT (Dec 13, 2005)

might be worth greasing the lower wishbone bushes to see if that sorts it. that's what was causing mine to creak when I thought it was the arb bushes.


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## Andyvo (Feb 4, 2005)

Cheers for the tips.

I just got inside both wheel arches this evening and sprayed everything which looked bush-like with lubricant. Seemed to do the trick until I have more time to get some silicone grease in there. I have ordered a syringe from an ink refill company for a couple of quid.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I've got to do mine too. I had a go the other week but although I could lubricate the passenger side successfully with a syringe, I noticed that the drivers side bush has the plastic sleeve split and loose on the ARB with some obvious rust under the sleeve. This is the one that is creaking now.

I've got a plan to remove the thin plastic sleeve, clean the ARB up with emery cloth and then heat shrink on some heatshrink tubing lined with hot melt adhesive. It should thread easily over the end of the ARB with the drop link removed. Once the tubing is sealed in place I can lubricate it with some Waxoyl before clamping it up.

Alternatively I could just remove the cracked sleeve, clean up the ARB and apply the Waxoyl. Then it would be like most other cars where the bush bears directly on the bar. A little black Hammerite paint may help too.

I noticed I couldn't easily get the bracket off completely on the passenger side. The bracket is extended inboard where it doubles up as a mounting for some pipes and it seems difficult to undo this pipe fixing without further dissassembly, although I stopped trying when I realised it probably just needed the Waxoyl which should also keep it rust free.

You don't necessarily want to remove the ARB bracket bolt completely as the bracket needs to almost completely compress the bush before the first thread of the bolt will engage on reassembly :roll: This issue is of importance with any heatshrink as the bracket may be forced up too much if the heatshrink is too thick :? .

I'll try it this weekend and post the results if all goes well.


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Good morning John

I had the later ARB fitted, the one which has no plastic sleeve and therefore supposedly no expected further problem and guess what, the Powerflex bushes dried up after a while and the creak returned, even though there is no wear or rust on the new ARB. The supplied lubricant from Powerflex was used on assembly. Having said that the re-lubrication of the Poweflex bushes and ARB together, as described in my previous post, has now worked for some time. I've not had this problem on any other car I've owned. It's ridiculous that the problem exists at all. If the creak returns I will fit my previously prepared modified brackets with the grease nipple installed as described earlier, with pictures. That way I can re-lubricate the Powerflex bushes in minutes with the minimum of inconvenience :lol: :lol: Famous last words. No...really....I believe it.

Good luck for the weekend.

Joe


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Thanks Joe  I might just take the sleeve off for now and clean and lube :wink:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Joe,

Did you notice if the new ARB was just a plain smooth steel bar - or - did it have a ring welded or shrunk in place to locate the ARB with the bush and stop the ARB sliding sideways?

The old plastic sleeve is thin mainly but has a built up end to form a stop at the inside end of the bush. Mine is totally shot and doesn't do any locating so I've removed it. I'm just waiting for the paint to dry on the ARB before putting it back together less the sleeve but with lubrication :roll:

I might need a clamp ring to provide the same lateral location if the ARB needs it.


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

John-H said:


> Joe,
> 
> Did you notice if the new ARB was just a plain smooth steel bar - or - did it have a ring welded or shrunk in place to locate the ARB with the bush and stop the ARB sliding sideways?
> 
> ...


I'm almost certain the new style standard ARB I had fitted was a plain smooth bar, 20mm in diameter and the same thickness all the way but with a welded ring to locate the ARB with the bush. I'll have a look in the morning. The inside diameter of the bush will have to be equal to the outside diameter of the ARB, which in my case was 20mm.

Joe


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Yes, my bar is 20mm too. I might have to make or obtain a 20mm internal diameter split ring clamp thingey.

Here's the bush and ARB with previous Waxoyl attempt:










This is the plastic sleeve removed. It was loose on the ARB and had split into two pieces. The thick end/ring was loose and in two pieces too. The whole thing fell apart as it was removed further.










This is the ARB with only slight rusting so still serviceable. I cleaned it up with emery and painted it with Hammerite then reassembled with a liberal spraying of Waxoyl. I'll see if it creaks tomorrow. I'm slightly concerned it might drift about but the previous plastic sleeve was loose so it must be similar in that respect.


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## GaryR (Oct 25, 2005)

ME TOO !!!!!!!
I've followed virtually the same procedure as you but still have one that is squeking/creaking. I even injected the bushes with silicone lubricant. Will watch this thread for a proper fix solution.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well, I enjoyed my first creak free drive into work this morning  It was so nice - felt as though the car was handling better and I was more attractive to women... er... well the last two points are utter rubbish... but it does have a good psychological effect not going *CREEEAAKKK-CREEAAKKK* every time you go over a speed bump :lol: .

There are no rattles from the front, so I don't think the roll bar is loose in the bush despite not having the plastic sleeve - the sleeve was only thin and the bush is still under copression without it but I may add the heatshrink later. My only concern is lateral shift but the bar can't go far because of the immediate bend after the bush on both sides of the car. I'll get hold of, or make, a split clamp for it though.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

UPDATE:

The nearside ARB bracket is a devil to take off and put back - you need to undo a bolt to a pipe clamp on an inboard extension of the bracket and there's not much room. It needed to come off as it had started to creak too.

The problem with removing the plastic sleeve is that you loose lateral location. You can at least buy some 20mm Powerflex bushes to keep the ARB tight :wink: .

I'm currently working on a split collar to clamp onto the ARB and give it location but there is very little clearance. A 5mm square band would fit but where can I get one of those from? :? I made a bigger one but it won't fit. Jubilee clips could be used temporarily but are a bit sharp edged!

To replace the ARB (new ones have welded rings instead of plastic sleeves) will take much effort as the sub frame needs dropping and the engine supporting from above. It's definitely worth saving the ARB if a solution can be made easily.


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## craigsta (Oct 18, 2005)

hi guys did you have to compress the bushes to get the bots back in or did thay go inwith ease

regards craigst


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## Sup3rfly (Sep 18, 2006)

Once it starts squeeking, you just wasting your time, oiling etc...just replace the bar and bushes, its only about Â£150 all in for the front..i'm having mine done soon, squeeks like an old bed.
jose :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

There is a little bit of compression of the bushes but as long as they are the correct size and you're not trying to squeeze a 19mm bush onto the 20mm ARB you should be OK - but they still need compressing a little. With there only being one bolt holding the bracket on, the bracket (bolt end) stands proud (other end clips in) and the bolt isn't quite long enough to reach the captive nut in the subframe. So, you need to compress the bracket/bush a bit to get the bolt started.

On the near side the pipe clamp bolt needs removing first or you won't get the bush bracket off - it also needs to go back on last.

You need lateral location though - this is important - OK the ARB is not going to move far enough to foul a wheel or drive shaft but it could damage your headlight level sensor. Jubilee clips might do as a temporary measure, to hold the ARB in place, as there is not much in the way of lateral forces but something better is required long term.


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## craigsta (Oct 18, 2005)

is it possable toget a longer bolt in there or is there somthing stoping it at the captive nut end

regards craig


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Possibly but you're right - it may foul. If you get something wedged in there you can press the bracket down before attempting to get the bolt in though - just make sure you don't start it cross thread.


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