# Front wing/sill rust



## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

Although it is pretty minimal there is some bubbling at the front wing/sill interface. I don't want to remove the sill or wing. Is it possible to create a small gap - say 2mm - in order that I can insert a thin file and remove rust prior to applying rust preventative, then subsequent base and lacquer coats?


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## mhuk01 (Apr 14, 2016)

I just replaced the drivers sill due to damage. It's not that hard a job. Have a look @ 



 The replacement got coated to stop rust.


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## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

mhuk01 said:


> I just replaced the drivers sill due to damage. It's not that hard a job. Have a look @
> 
> 
> 
> The replacement got coated to stop rust.


Had a look at youtube. Pleased it wasn't "that hard a job" for you. A bit beyond me, though. As I said, I was hoping for someway to just tease gap between wing/sill sufficient to clean surfaces.


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

You will be better of replacing for new as the rust you can see gos further back to were it bolts to the wing and will be pitted. It will most likely come back back you can get a new sill from audi and you might need a wing to.

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## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

cam69 said:


> You will be better of replacing for new as the rust you can see gos further back to were it bolts to the wing and will be pitted. It will most likely come back back you can get a new sill from audi and you might need a wing to.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


What would be a rough estimate of the the cost for: New wing and sill. Painting. Removing and replacing parts? Not Audi dealership, obviously.


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

It cost me £600 all in but get the parts then shop around for price on paint. If you plan to keep the car for a long time and want it perfect this is the only way to go. Problem with getting second hand parts this is a common problem on the mk1 and yoi would struggle to find parts with no rust.

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## ChrisPell (Apr 14, 2010)

This is a common problem on TTs. Often you'll see them with rust where the sill cover meets the front wing and around the bottom edge of the wing. Recently had mine sorted (very little bubbling etc could be seen on the outside) with one new wing and sills off and internally rust proofed and the whole painted. The only way to see that it lasts for a good time is to take failrly drastic action. I agree with others that the bubbling, which may be small, is just a sign of worse inside the sill/wing. It seems that the wing liner allows ingress of water and muck around the edge. If you use the car a lot in all weathers it can be a good idea to remove the wing liners each year and get rid of all the crap. It may cost quite a few hundred pounds to get a proper job done, but as other say, shop around or use a bodyshop that's recommended by previous users. There have been good write-ups with pictures on here, of sill removal, which may save some costs. Hope you get it sorted, Chris


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## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies. 
From replies it is clear the rust at this location may be just the tip of the iceberg. As a first step I'll remove the wheel arch liner and have a look.


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

Thats mine after new wing and sill fitted also make sure they apply the rubber stone chip coat on like the originals if you get new parts.

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## westo3 (Jan 15, 2011)

Looks good where did you get it done?


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

I got the parts from audi. And used a bodyshop called horndean veichle repairs ive been using him for 4 years now did the sills on my last tt and my brothers tt as well so he knows his stuff with tt's now lol.

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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If you take the wheel arch liner off you can get to two screws that hold the wing to sill seam together. Once unscrewed you can wedge the two apart enough to remove any rust, treat the surfaces and paint them. I seem to remember getting it apart about 1 cm. You can then use a sharp edge to dig out any pitting and emery cloth strip etc. The Hammerite rust treatment green goo that you wash off seems good for getting back to bright metal. Then you can use an acid or Zink primer etc.

It's possible to get a good paint finish using spray cans but it helps to have a non metallic paint otherwise you'll have to paint to edges and seams to not see the difference at the feathered blend. My brilliant black is easy to blend in. Audi can source you base and lacquer two spray can touch up. I've found the Halfords paint also works well in black at least. I recently spray blended a patch over a scratch which was down to the metal and rusting. 800 grade wet and dry between coats until flat on the colour coat, few coats of lacquer, rubbing compound, Scratch-X, wax polish and you wouldn't know :wink:

I've seen some TTs with a rubber seam fill at the wing/sill join. As there are two painted surfaces curving together into an ever decreasing gap it's prone to trapping dirt and as there will inevitably be some movement there is scope for grit penetrating the paint. A layer of rubber tape or sealant mastic in the join may give some protection.


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## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

Thanks John-H. That's the reply I was hoping for. I'll get started this weekend.

As for painting: 
After removal of flaking/pitting I intend using Hammerite Kurust followed by zinc primer.
Final coat: 
I recently repaired the offside roof moulding and top coated using spray can - LY7J Avus Silver supplied by Spraystore, Motherwell. Based on numerous previous attempts I wasn't too optimistic about the chances of achieving a good colour match. And I wasn't disappointed. It wasn't a good match. So, back to Spraystore for another attempt. 
This time the colour was LY7J Avus Silver. Variant code L- Lighter. Nav number - M9 - 10300. 
Result: Colour match when lacquered is indistinguishable from original. I kid you not.

So, once again into the breach.

Off topic:
I must say, I absolutely love the TT. In fact every time I walk away I never fail to look back at her. And it is for that reason I want her to look her Best. As for the drive: I don't need a reason to go for a drive. It's addictive. 
Without exception, everything works as it should. Especially the clutch. I'm a retired career mechanical engineer and can hardly believe it possible to design and manufacture a clutch that is utterly smooth on take up. There's no vibration at all. Like pulling a knife out of butter. 
She's cost me a bob or two to date: timing belt/water pump; front sports springs; engine oil and filter; new discs and pads front and rear; front drop links; temp sensor; air pump rivet replacement; all four rear suspension arms and rose bushes; Haldex filter/fluid; Haldex earth tag; engine and petrol tank under trays; battery cover and two new Falken 914 tyres. More than I intended spending. But what the heck. You only live once and don't come across a temptress such as the TT very often.


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## MICKLMASS (Feb 16, 2010)

fabcam said:


> cam69 said:
> 
> 
> > You will be better of replacing for new as the rust you can see gos further back to were it bolts to the wing and will be pitted. It will most likely come back back you can get a new sill from audi and you might need a wing to.
> ...


I priced a sill up from dealership it was £168, you then have the cost of painting on top of that.


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

MICKLMASS said:


> fabcam said:
> 
> 
> > cam69 said:
> ...


Phone some other audi dealers as price can vary a bit. My brother got his for £80 each two years back. They might have put the prices up as more people are replacing them.

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## jamieh (Oct 21, 2014)

cam69 said:


> I got the parts from audi. And used a bodyshop called horndean veichle repairs ive been using him for 4 years now did the sills on my last tt and my brothers tt as well so he knows his stuff with tt's now lol.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Hi, is this bodyshop on London Road in Waterlooville? Looking for a reputable shop to get some work done on my TT.


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## cam69 (Dec 22, 2011)

jamieh said:


> cam69 said:
> 
> 
> > I got the parts from audi. And used a bodyshop called horndean veichle repairs ive been using him for 4 years now did the sills on my last tt and my brothers tt as well so he knows his stuff with tt's now lol.
> ...


Hi its london road horndean the guys name is andy tell him cameron recommended him to you he will sort you a good price.

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## fabcam (Jun 10, 2016)

Just completed the top coat and lacquer on both sides, today. Although I didn't manage to get the 1cm separation between sill and wing as John-H I did get enough of a gap to be able to push or pull the wing back and forward to enable me to access both faces and remove the surface rust - not as much as I thought there would be. The job was straight forward - the screws holding the joint together took a bit of force to crack, though. After filing off rust I applied Hammerite Kurust followed by a few coats of zinc primer. I then reassembled before applying top coat. Reassembly was straight forward. After rubbing down, three coats of base and three lacquer. Just need to wait for it to cure then a gentle Tcut and polish should finish off just fine. 
All in all, very pleased with the outcome. Was able to use the same spray can and lacquer I used on the roof rail. Made for a no-cost repair. Thanks for advice, guys.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well done


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