# Help! Hazard switch draining battery [SOLVED]



## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Another one from my car...

So, one day I stop my car at night and the other day, with no warning at all, the battery was dead the car would rotate the starter, but would not make the engine work... I though that it was just the battery that was dead and bought a new one. Parked in front of my house and went to a trip (by plane) for about 5 days. Came yesterday and and I was about to unlock my car with the keyfob, the car was dead... Unlocked it in the locker, and entered the car, nothing, not even the panel would light... The car was dead.

Called the insurance road assistance and they juiced up the car with a booster. Car started working and I left the battery charge for about half a hour.

To see what might be the problem, i've locked myself inside the car. I noticed two things:

- The hazard light from the switch, never goes off. I've never seen it before, but the triangle keeps it's light on forever... never goes off. So, obviously one cause for the battery draining.

- I can ear a persistent "clic... ... clac..." coming from the boot, where the battery is located. The sound goes like if a relay is going on and off, separated by some 5 seconds or so.

What is this!? Any idea what might be causing the hazard switch light not turning off? Is it related with the "clic clac" sound comingo from the boot?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

"clic clac" sounds like the boot/tailgate lock operating?


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Yeah, it seems like it, but it is a very soft and low sound.

Anyway, i'm much more concerned about the triangle light which, that i'm sure, is draining the battery and I can't put an end to it...

Any idea how to!?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, If like the MK1 the hazard switch contains relays for indicators & hazards, so I would remove & replace hazard switch with a new one.. Have you tried switching hazards on & off a few times.
Not sure how easy it is to remove on the MK2.
Do hazards & indicators work O.K. ?
Hoggy.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, If like the MK1 the hazard switch contains relays for indicators & hazards, so I would remove & replace hazard switch with a new one.. Have you tried switching hazards on & off a few times.
> Not sure how easy it is to remove on the MK2.
> Do hazards & indicators work O.K. ?
> Hoggy.


Hi,

yes, that's the odd part. Everything works just fine as they are suposed to... I've though about buying a new switch but if that doesn't make the trick, i'll be just spending money. I would like to understand what brings electricity to that button. Maybe that's the source of the problem...I don't know...


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Could be earth fault on one of the indicator bulb/sockets, but that would mean removing & cleaning up each bulb/socket.
Hoggy.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

This is a clear sign of the electronics of the car not going into deep sleep mode. Something is triggering the car to stay awake.

Possible causes:

*Bus wakeup:* Hardware fault, water/moisture in the control unit, water/moisture in the plugs,software frozen, faults in the wiring harness

*Bus interrupter:* Faulty operation, external influence on vehicle, control unit peripheral equipment, hardware fault

*CAN active after sleepmode: *CAN in single-wire operation, water/moisture in the control unit, control unit peripheral equipment, hardware fault, faults in the wiring harness

I'd suggest: check the obvious. If you can't find the root cause: Audi has equipment to read what the trigger is.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Thank you all for your replies. I decided to let the car in my mechanic. He used to be an AUDI workshop chief, he's very competent and trustworthy but a bit expensive, ence my question here before going to him. But I think its too much for me to solve.

Best regards and thanks once again


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

If he's done his home work (I.e. read all technical bulletins) then he must be aware of it. Most of my post was copied from such a technical bulletins. :wink:


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

Definitely a good start is to have the car plugged into a fault code reader to see if anything obvious to the system is being logged.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I totally agree with TT driver

The car isn't going to sleep due to a module still running or faulty

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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

I have a VCDS cable. I linked it yesterday and there were no obvious fault codes. The only fault codes I got were from the drivers locking mechanism (sometimes my door won't unlock via keyfob, sometimes it does - I'll probably just have to replace it sooner or later) and another fault code from the radio, something like intermittent signal or so... I clear the DTC's but the problem remains (the hazard light won't go off and the clicking noise starts).

None of these two things seem to be related with that fault or could they!?

PS: I've managed to ear that the clicking noise comes from the rear right side, where the Central Electronic Control Module is, near the fuel entry, so I guess it's some "relay", or so, in that zone... Any clue!?

Another clue: Since I got this car in a second hand deal, I found some ammounts of oxidation in the car metal parts. Maybe this problem is indeed caused by water or moisture on the module.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Central electronics module is at the front of the car in the drivers side footwell above the pedals

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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I also agree about the car not going into sleep mode - and that could be because of a faulty door lock switch and/or door module. 
Don't forget that the car takes about 15 minutes to go into sleep mode after lock.
Could the clicking noise be the boot lock?

You could look up the codes on the ross tech wiki http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... ault_Codes and see what it has to say on causes.

For interest I tried mine:
On lock the interior and footwell lights dim to off and the hazard switch light stays on.
After approx 15 mins the hazard light start to flash at a rate of approx 2 per second. 
The flashing is very dim - noticeable in the garage with doors shut, but I doubt you'd see it outside in daylight. 
An hour later and the flashing continues.

Anyone else noticed this?


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

I have noticed that the hazard light does glow /pulse for a while and I have read that it should do this for about 10 minutes. But I've not had your patience Brittan to stand and watch it for all that time


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I'll check mine later when it's dark. I locked my car two weeks ago :roll:

Could be it's related to the alarm being armed? IIrc there's a blinking led near the centre speaker too.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

TT-driver said:


> Could be it's related to the alarm being armed? IIrc there's a blinking led near the centre speaker too.


I thought that too but the hazard button flash rate is different to that of the alarm LED on the dashboard top centre.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Soooo..... after two weeks my hazard light is completely dark. No the battery isn't empty, the alarm light is still blinking. 

After two weeks doesn't mean I've been sitting there waiting for it to dim


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Thanks for checking. 

Just in case it was something to do with the Ctek charger, I disconnected it last night, opened and re-locked the car and left it overnight. The hazard light was flashing, very dimly this morning; same as before.

It was cold in the garage and I may have nodded off - but not in the garage.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> Central electronics module is at the front of the car in the drivers side footwell above the pedals
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


I meant the confort module!


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Something I remembered:

Since I replaced the battery, I noted the problem more commonly. With the older battery, I didn't experienced any symptom in over 2 months...!

*Old battery*: car wouldn't start overnight, *-> *replaced battery.

*New Battery*: Was replaced by me* -> *It's a Varta has more start power (800Ah) than the other but the same "A". *->* The car has died - when parked - three times ever since the replacement.

Since the "ticking" I hear comes from the rear, where the battery - and the confort unit - is located, is it possible that I had made something replacing the battery that would cause these symptoms!?

To me, a battery replacement is pretty straight forward and idiot proof but you never know...

(Hope I've made myself clear, since English is not my main language..)


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Your English is fine (says the Dutch guy from the Netherlands...)

I replaced my battery last year and I too used a stronger version. It was a preventative replacement though and I kept the car 'live' with an external 12V source during the replacement process.

It could be that the low voltage old battery masked the problem you're experiencing now. 
You didn't install a new technology battery like AGM or so did you?


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

Like the new types that are fitted to the recent stop/start vehicles ?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Templar said:


> Like the new types that are fitted to the recent stop/start vehicles ?


Yeah that's the sort of batteries I'm referring to. Not that such a battery will cause issues immediately, but it won't help.... I suppose.


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

Hmm I can understand your thinking but whether this could actually create or cause this issue I wouldn't like to say.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Edit: double post


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Hi again,

I found the culprit of the clicking sound. The clicking sound comes from the comfort module because inside theres a relay . I opened it and there was no proof of water or moisture. However, I submerged it on isopropyl alcohol and dried it very well to be sure. Everything remains the same... Clicking sound still remains, hazard light wont turn off, battery drains...

What should i do more? I though about buying another module but i'm afraid of spending money for nothing if the cause isnt in the module itself.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Please explain the module your referring to as the comfort module is at the front and you said the clicking was at the rear

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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

ReTTro fit said:


> Please explain the module your referring to as the comfort module is at the front and you said the clicking was at the rear
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Maybe I used the wrong expression by saying comfort module. This module is at the rear side, next to the battery. Maybe you know it as the central locking module. Its a relatevely small module, with four plugs, one big and two small black plugs, and one light brown plug.


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

I suggest that you have a play with your fuses.
1. At night when you park up try removing the fuse that serves the hazard switch and see it that solves your battery draining problem.
2. Try pulling each of the fuses one at a time to see it any stop the clicking noise. Hopefully someone on here will advise whether there are any fuses that you shouldn't pull that might clear system settings etc.


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## TonyZed (Jun 14, 2005)

Hi

I am having much the same problem, also with the more powerful Varta battery. If I leave the car unused for a few days the battery is completely flat.

About a minute after using the remote, especially to lock the car, I hear a clonk, the first time I remember hearing it I thought a conker had fallen on my (Roadster) roof. That's what it sounds like every time rather than a click. I haven't yet been able to pinpoint where it is coming from.

I also get various quiet sounds on locking and unlocking but I think they are normal. I don't seem to have an isssue with the hazzard light switch. The light is on, on locking, but does go out completely as far as I can see.

What I do know is that if you sit in the car and activated the alarm, the internal sensors don't work. (My neighbour wondered why I was sitting in my car waving my arms about like a mad thing!!) The buttons on the side of the door which you use to cancel out the internal alarm don't light at all, I presume they should. I haven't yet been able to try the alarm by rocking the car, that's my next job.

I'll let you know how I get on.

TonyZ


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

The clicking relay in the comfort module is a clear sign of a circuit being activated by a trigger. The suggestion to check which by pulling fuses is a good idea. Fuses to avoid are those that are related to engine management and control. Those will loose their settings when left without power.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

TonyZed said:


> I haven't yet been able to try the alarm by rocking the car, that's my next job.
> TonyZ


If equipped with a tilt sensor, jacking the car up will cause the alarm to go off.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Tonyz, Another way of testing alarm, is to lock with fob, wait a couple of miutes & unlock by using key in door. Alarm should sound & should silence by turning Ign on.
Hoggy.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

I gave up. I left my car at the mechanic. Hopefully he'll find the fault, correct it and tell me. I'll post here when I know.

Answering a question a few posts ago, I did replaced my old battery for a new one which says that is suitable to start/stop vehicles, but I though that it didn't make a diference. The brand and the "A" power are the same as the old battery.

The *old battery was a audi OEM Varta 85A 650Ah*, and the *new one is a Varta SylverDynamic F18, 12v 85A 800Ah*, so more starter power, but that's it. Would it really matter on this subject?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

That battery has the correct specifications. So it shouldn't be the cause of the issue then.


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## TonyZed (Jun 14, 2005)

Right.

Using Hoggy's method, my alarm does work ok, although not the interior sensors.

After the last time the battery went flat my roof wouldn't go down and the spoiler won't work from the button!!

So, on the advice of a friend, I disconnected the neg terminal from the battery and put a meter between the neg terminal and the cable. There is a constant drain of around 4 amps with a quick spike every few seconds when I can just hear a solenoid clicking. about every 10 minutes the meter was going mad, bouncing around 2 to 3 amps, then it would settle back on 4 amps. :? :?

Obviously that is enough to flatten the battery over a few days. I will try removing fuses to see if I can find the culprit, but in the mean time, having reconnected the battery - the roof does work now, although still not interior alarm or the spoiler button.

Update when available. 8)

TonyZ


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

4 Amps 12V = 48 Watts. -> Something in the car must be feeling pretty warm.


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## TonyZed (Jun 14, 2005)

I've found my problem, at least I think I have.

I'm halfway through fitting a reverse camera to my RNSE. The guy who is doing it for me cant get back on the case for a month or so, so I won't have a definitive answer till then. I thought this would be where the problem lies though.

As I said , there was something using about 4 amps when the car was all shut up. I removed the fuse for the RNSE and the meter went back down to nearly 0 amps which you would expect.

As everything else, apart from the spoiler, is working fine I can wait to finish the job and hope that cures the drain problem.
I think the answer is in the coding. I have my mates VCDS cable here, but I'm not brave enough to try to sort it myself. I'm off to Spain with the car in two weeks, so the main thing was not wanting a flat battery on the ferry, and being able to put the roof down if the weather is nice. Taking the fuse out when I park up isn't too much bother, I can live with that for a few weeks. :?

So, Mpercheiro, have you solved your problem, and if so what was it? If not, I would suggest removing fuses one by one as has been suggested. Good luck. 8)

TonyZ


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Scan the rns-e 
Post up the coding and any faults

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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Like TT-driver says 48 watts running somewhere is quite a bit. Something pulling 48 watts thru your RNS-E continually is going to do it no good and if something's going to overheat and blow the heat in Spain isn't going to help.
Have a look along the temporary wiring you've got in for your camera and see if there are any uninsulated wire ends or terminals which could be causing a short. If need be pull out the RNS-E and disconnect the camera cables from the back.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Camera cables don't go to the back of the rns-e mate

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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

ReTTro fit said:


> Camera cables don't go to the back of the rns-e mate


Showing my ignorance there  So how does the camera communicate with the RNS-E?


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Through an interface which is fed from the rns-e (should be)
Only powers up and becomes active with rns-e

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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

TonyZed said:


> I've found my problem, at least I think I have.
> 
> I'm halfway through fitting a reverse camera to my RNSE. The guy who is doing it for me cant get back on the case for a month or so, so I won't have a definitive answer till then. I thought this would be where the problem lies though.
> 
> ...


Hi, thanks for the heads up! However, I left my car at the mechanic this week. Not sure if he has started working on it, but as soon as I know what was causing the problem, I'll write it here.

I din't change anything hardware based, but I did played around a little bit with VCDS on RNS-e, mostly changing the boot screen from "stock audi" to "TT screen" and also some sound definition. Maybe that trigged something, I don't know...

Best regards and hope you manage to find it too.


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

UPDATE: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1100361

kind of...


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## mpercheiro (Jun 25, 2015)

Well, this time's for sure.

The problem is solved. It was my BOSE amp which had lots of water signs inside and was stopping the car from entering deep sleep.

I opened it and cleaned it very well with an electronic cleansing product (Due-ci Electronic F-02), which has a little scrub on the end of the spray. Cleaned the chips with water evidence and removed any signs of oxidation, also applied some thin layer of WD-40 to protect the circuit against humidity and oxidation.

The car now enters deep sleep mode, and also has a better sound.

Probably this fix won't last much, since I still can't manage to find whats leaking water inside the car, but hope I find it. Any guess!?

Thanks for all the answers and help!


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