# TTRS Clutch questions



## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Hi All,

I have recently bought a TTRS in December. It is a 2011 high mileage coupe but is in great condition and has a comprehensive service history carried out all at the same dealers (South Hereford Audi).

However one of my concerns when I purchased this was that there was no evidence of the clutch ever being replaced. I even spoke to the dealers who confirmed that they had not replaced this on the vehicle.

My concerns have come true, the clutch has begun to slip slightly when the revs are above 3-3.5k. If it is driven normally then this does not happen, only when driven enthusiastically does it begin to slip and only usually over 3.5k revs and in 3rd gear and above.

I only use the car occasionally at weekends and most of the time I will just be driving it normally with the occasionally A&B road blasts in the country. As such I want to keep the drivability and don't want to go to severe on the clutch as I am aware that many uprated clutches are pretty much on or off and you lose everyday drivability.

I also plan to eventually have a stage 1 remap done but I doubt I will take it past this point.

Currently I am considering replacing the worn clutch for a replacement OE Audi unit or a Sachs performance unit. However I am aware that Audi don't publish max torque figures for the OE unit and the sachs unit is rated to 400ft/lb. This is however around the levels of torque that many stage 1 remaps produce.

The current options I am looking at are as follows;

1.	Replace with OE Audi clutch and pressure plate. I have been quoted £1499 all in by a local dealer for this. (apparently this should be £2090 but as the car is over 3 years old they will do a special price) Plus £920 for the DMF if needed.

2.	Buy the OE Audi parts clutch and pressure plate kit £380, new fitting bolts £25 and release bearing £85 total £490 and get a local trusted independent VAG specialist who I used to take my Leon Cupra to too fit them for approx. £580. Total fitted price approx. £1070 (plus £920 for DMF if needed)

3.	Buy the Sachs performance clutch kit for £429 and get it fitted for approx. £580. Total fitted price approx. £1009 (plus £920 for DMF if needed)

I am also considering all the above and just fitting the DMF anyway whilst it is stripped as I don't want to have to pay to have it possibly stripped down again in the future if the DMF fails or wears out before the clutch.

I suppose I am really asking what have other people done, what were the results and what would be there recommendations in my situation.

Thanks in advance.


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## bhavin85 (Sep 20, 2013)

Hi

I am having my oem clutch replaced with a Sachs clutch next month. Where are you based ? If your near london / Oxford give RB engineering a shout they will be able to sort you out


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Hi,

Are you replacing your clutch because it is worn and slipping or are you just up rating?


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## Vassilis (Mar 20, 2007)

I'm also replacing it this week with the Sachs, it takes 8-10 hours to do the swap (the OEM just started slipping after 40000km). You should not replace the DMF unless it has really high mileage or you have driven the clutch for a long time while it was already slipping.


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## madasapig (Oct 19, 2013)

me to going sachs organic clutch made of chocolate i think


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## aquazi (Dec 24, 2014)

You should replace the dmf while you are at it.

Note sure if the rs dmf is different to the TTS but eurocar parts do the lux dmf for £400 (dealer is over £900)

Worth seeing if you can source the dmf online not audi.

Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


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## SuperRS (Mar 7, 2012)

Ttrs dmf is over 800 notes.

At that mileage I would change that part.

The sach sintered clutch and performance plate is whats being used in a 850hp ttrs. It will do fine with stage 1.


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Vassilis said:


> I'm also replacing it this week with the Sachs, it takes 8-10 hours to do the swap (the OEM just started slipping after 40000km). You should not replace the DMF unless it has really high mileage or you have driven the clutch for a long time while it was already slipping.


8-10 hours sound about right from what i have read. (Also Audi have quoted it at 12.2 hours). What do you call high mileage?? I think i fall in to that category though as its over 100K. Only just started slipping and appears to be the original clutch.


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

aquazi said:


> You should replace the dmf while you are at it.
> 
> Note sure if the rs dmf is different to the TTS but eurocar parts do the lux dmf for £400 (dealer is over £900)
> 
> ...





SuperRS said:


> Ttrs dmf is over 800 notes.
> 
> At that mileage I would change that part.
> 
> The sach sintered clutch and performance plate is whats being used in a 850hp ttrs. It will do fine with stage 1.


I'm erring towards just changing it whilst the gear box is off, especially as the car has done over 100K.

Euro car parts currently have the LUK DMF for £275 but i dont think if fits the TTRS, [smiley=bigcry.gif] wish it did at that price though!I think the TTS one doesnt fir the TTRS because of the different crank and fitment, The only other engines that use the same clutch other than the CEPA and CEPB for in the RS and RS plus are 2.5l 5 cylinder petrol engines found in the VW LT's in the states. (engine codes APA, AGX, AHD, AVR, ANJ, BBF, BBE, AXE, BPC, BLJ) I think the CEPA engine is derived from this or at least uses the same block.

They dont list anything for the TTRS either 

The only place i have found that seems to supply them online at a half decent price is for £680 (better that £920 i suppose) is here.

http://www.dualmassflywheel24.com/4117/ ... 66d-detail

Anyone used this site before? There based in germany by the looks of it.

Its ironic really, i live about 3 mile from the LUK factory in sheffield and am struggling to get one of there clutches at a decent price. It seriiously cant be the cheapest option to ship half way across europe and back???

Anyone know of any other online suppliers for the TTRS DMF at a decent price??


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## SuperRS (Mar 7, 2012)

I looked at that site, i had concerns about it being genuine and new.

My mechanic gets them for £650, ex audi techie, he could turn around your car in a day for alot less than audi with a sach clutch at a good rate too, but maybe a bit far from you as hes in oxford


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## SuperRS (Mar 7, 2012)

Visit the LUK factory if youre lucky you can buy direct


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

DMF update.

Phoned LUK last week. The aftermarket division based in Hereford dont do a DMF for the TTRS and although they do make the OEM unit for Audi in Sheffield as its an OEM unit the wont sell it direct as it is a dealer only part.

Managed to get a quote from the local Audi dealer for them to supply one at £800 instead of the £920 they had previously quoted. Also, phoned TPS and the quoted £920 retail and £547 + VAT trade.

Has anyone used a TPS place? Do they check if your trade?

Think my best option there is to try and blag it trade from there.


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Also found this

http://www.clutchstop.co.uk/products/02 ... h-kit.html

Not a bad price for the sachs kit from what i have seen looking round.


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Has any other TTRS owners gone Sachs or OEM when replacing the clutch? What were there results? were they happy?


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## Vassilis (Mar 20, 2007)

payney24 said:


> Has any other TTRS owners gone Sachs or OEM when replacing the clutch? What were there results? were they happy?


I replaced my OEM clutch today for a Sachs, from the testing that I have done so far it works very well and I don't have clutch slipping at all anymore.

Edit: the Sachs reinforced organic kit started slipping again after only 5000km -> not recommended


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## madasapig (Oct 19, 2013)

Good to hear mine is in awesome gti now getting done hope it all hose well


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## delta16 (Nov 29, 2012)

payney24 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I have recently bought a TTRS in December. It is a 2011 high mileage coupe but is in great condition and has a comprehensive service history carried out all at the same dealers (South Hereford Audi).
> 
> ...


I am thinking of also buying a higher mileage ttrs and wanted to know what mileage yours is on and if it's auto or manual

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## SuperRS (Mar 7, 2012)

Donovan2123 said:


> payney24 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi All,
> ...


Thats a manual

For reference i just bought a new dmf for £500


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Donovan2123 said:


> payney24 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi All,
> ...


Hi, its a manual and it had 124K on the clock when i bought it. Other than the clutch issue and requiring a full set of pads it's in great condition. I have had it independently checked by a VAG specialist and the pads were the only things needed. Everything else looked ok.

This is the second high mileage car i have bought. As this is a weekend car for me the mileage wont go up much. (i only put 20k on my old leon cupra in 11 years) As long as they have been looked after, well maintained and not abused i personally dont mind higher mileage cars.


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

SuperRS said:


> For reference i just bought a new dmf for £500


If you dont mind me asking where did you get the DMF for £500?


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## payney24 (Jul 24, 2014)

Hi everyone,

Clutch slip update!

The last 3 times i have had the RS out some times it has slipped and others it didn't??

3 weekends ago i took the car out for a leisurely Sunday drive with the missus into the countryside. on the way back i called in to a friends house to show him the car as he had not seen it. i took him out for a spin we found a nice quiet stretch of road (private of course!!) and i opened it up to show him the performance of the car. It pulled like a dream, no slip at all, all the way through the gears right up to 6th. no slip at all, the car just took off as it should. 

I thought this was great, no slip, thought there may have just been a bit of glazing on the clutch disc/ plates etc that may have worn off and everything was biting again properly.

The following weekend i visited another friend who had not seen the car, took him for a spin and it slipped like a b!tch! :x 1st to 2nd was OK but 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th both slipped. the revs shot up and the car didn't continue accelerating??

Last Saturday i was out in it and no issues again no slip, gave it a good run and no slip right through to 5th, (i eased of then and didn't try 6th)

On all 3 occasions i made sure everything was warned up, i dont take the engine revs above 3k until warm and i had been driving it steady before giving it a run. I don't wring its neck from cold etc.

Anyone got any thoughts on why it seems ok sometimes and not others??

I can only presume it is only just on its way out and intermittently slipping or maybe there is a problem with the release bearing?


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## Vassilis (Mar 20, 2007)

payney24 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Clutch slip update!
> 
> ...


Slipping in a friction/heating problem, so it's dependent on several parameters including how long you have been driving on that day, the temperature outside (cold days) and inside, boost requested by ecu, etc. You should stop driving and replace the clutch asap before the dmf and other components get damaged even more.


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## delta16 (Nov 29, 2012)

payney24 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Clutch slip update!
> 
> ...


Hi, what is your mileage? Also is car mapped? Stage 1 or 2? Who did the map Apr?

I think the reason you are experiencing it the way you are is because the ecu controls things based on conditions outside so sometimes your car will be able to hit its target torque with out boosting to much, cold mornings, where other times your car needs to add more boost to hit target torque.

I think it is the later that may be causing slip, from what I remeber these ecu's are much more complicated and boost is not added in traditional way it's infact added by target engine load etc.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## Vassilis (Mar 20, 2007)

Update: Only 5000 miles after the new sachs organic clutch & plate installation, it's already slipping while never having been abused. Not looking good!


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## sniffer63 (Mar 15, 2015)

Gent's how did you get on with your new clutches.

I've had a problem with mine for a few months now.

In short when bringing up the clutch the bite point initially feels progressive then towards the top of travel it engages very abruptly. However; once I have driven a few miles it seems to improve and their seems to be more 'feel' to the clutch.

Unfortunately I don't drive the car that often and only for relatively short journeys so I often don't get a chance to warm up the car thoroughly. At first I thought it might have been the dreaded engine/gearbox mounts problem but Mercury Garage/Hutton have inspected them and feel they are OK.

Obviously mileage isn't always an issue; the car is a 2010 manual has covered just over 28K and has had a handful of owners before me so could have had some spirited/abusive driving.

Is the gearbox/OEM clutch pretty solid on these. It certainly doesn't slip.
Could there be fluid contamination on the clutch faces which is burning off once the clutch has warmed up and contributes to an improvement.
If the clutch has already been changed could it be an after market clutch perhaps and do uprated ones have different characteristics/feel
Could I have a Single mass flywheel now and if so, do they perform differently 
Could there be a problem with the master/slave cylinders

Not really enjoying TT RS ownership at the moment. I came from a Honda S2000 and you just don't get these problems with Honda engineering. Overall the TT is a nicer car but I'm really not all that impressed with Audi engineering after some of the threads I've read on this forum.

Any help would be greatly appreciated; thank you.
I understand that if it's the original or a replacement OEM clutch then it has


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## Dash (Oct 5, 2008)

I can remember it took me a while to get used to the pedal on mine, kept lurching it. But I got used to it fairly quickly and I don't even think about it now.


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## turboDean (Nov 16, 2016)

sniffer63 said:


> Gent's how did you get on with your new clutches.
> 
> I've had a problem with mine for a few months now.
> 
> ...


Everyone on the TTRS owners group says not to do the single mass conversion, think its causes problems problems with the gearbox and crank.


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