# Sticky  HOW TO - Using clay bars



## Jac-in-a-Box

Another perrenial topic - Clay what is it, when do I, how do I?

Simple guide, because it is simple and doing it should hold no fears for you - really!

So, you've washed your car, it's looking clean'ish but what about that slightly gritty feel to the surface of your paint? 
Well, it's contamination that's physically bonded or embedded to the paints surface and you need to remove it. 
What is this contamination? 
The most common forms include tree sap, insect remnants and light road tar. There are others that are more serious; metallic rail dust, debris from traffic brakes and industrial air borne contaminants.

All of it is pretty much unavoidable and we just have to deal with it. If it's left untreated it will cause serious damage to the paint, especially the metallic contaminants.

Alarming stuff then; but there is a remedy available that's hugely effective - the clay bar. 
Clay bar? Looks nothing like clay, more akin to a piece of firm plasticene. Easy and SAFE to use on all types of paintwork it will remove all contaminants from the paints surface with very little effort and with absolutely no risk of damaging the paint. 
It won't remove scratches, swirls or other paint blemishes; we'll discuss that later. 
Once clayed, your paint surface will be free off contaminants, absolutely smooth and provide the best base for any further work you need to do to the paint - polish, wax etc

Before you start, the car must be thoroughly washed and rinsed to remove all loose dirt. Ideally carry out the claying in the shade and when the paintwork is cool to touch.

Break off a piece of clay and knead it to make a pad around 1.5" in diameter and around 1⁄4" thick. Before putting the clay anywhere near the paint you'll need some lubricant - use a double strength mix of shampoo and water and apply it with a trigger spray bottle, this acts as a lubricant and helps to stop the clay sticking to the paint. 
Work over the car panel by panel. Thoroughly apply the lubricant to your chosen panel and work the pad, using a LIGHT pressure, in straight lines over the panel. 3 or 4 overlapping passes will usually be sufficient. Repeat the same routine at right angles to your first. 
Feel the area with the tips of your fingers,"touch" will be your guide to knowing if the surface is clean.

As you work over the car you'll see the pad getting dirty. Simply stretch and fold the clay to expose a new cleaning surface. When the clay is fully loaded with dirt and a reasonably clean surface cannot e exposed, use a new piece. But don't throw away the dirty piece; it still has uses! 
If you drop the pad of clay DON'T use it, bin it! It will pick up grit that will damage the paint.

Work steadily and methodically, the more effort and care you put into claying, the smoother and cleaner the paint surface will be - it will pay dividends later.

Once the cars paint has been cleaned, do the same to the exterior glass and you'll be amazed at how much smoother the glass feels and you'll extend the life of your wiper blades!

By now your pad of clay will be looking pretty grubby and not worth using on the paint again. To get the most from clay and you're serious about keeping your car looking good; clay your wheels. 
All those little black, difficult to shift specks of brake dust can be removed fairly easily and your wheels will look so much cleaner. 
Now send that piece of clay to the bin, wash, rinse and dry your car ready for polishing and waxing.

Pretty easy wasn't it? If your car has been neglected you may notice that paint might look a little fresher and brighter. It will, for sure, be extremely smooth and you'll have the cleanest surface for applying any polishes and waxes.

How often should you do it? 
The answer depends on where you live; are you close to industrial areas or railway lines? Do you use the car in heavy traffic or is it garaged? 
Use your fingertips and the sense of touch; if the gritty feel is evident then clay, but don't overdo it 
I suggest twice a year; pre and post winter is usually sufficient

Should you do it on a new car? 
If you're going to give your new car the best start in life then you have everything to gain and nothing to lose by doing it!

Who's clay?
Few to choose from these days and those who've clayed before will have their favourites.

Meguiars - kit available with detailing spray. The spray is used as a lubricant and it won't work too well with my "soapy water lub" tip. The clay crumbles. Personally don't think it's great value but it is readily available from the likes of Halfords

Sonus Green - see http://www.cleanyourcar.com 
A selection of others to choose from as well, just make sure you buy a FINE grade of clay.

Swissvax - make a yellow clay (don't buy any other from them if it's not available) 
Best around IMO. Works well with soapy water as lub, you get a large lump that will make 3 or 4 decent sized pads.

No excuses for not doing it now, eh?!

Dave


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## magic1

Great write-up

But just to add that Sonus green can mark the paint in regards to marring and Sonus grey should only be used if its being followed by a machine polish.

Robbie


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## Hammer216

Topman, Thanks for the info....


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## Jac-in-a-Box

magic1 said:


> But just to add that *Sonus green can mark the paint in regards to marring* ... Sonus grey should only be used if its being followed by a machine polish.


Not my experience and certainly not with the hard paints found on German cars. Indeed, even on cars with soft paint I've not noticed any problems!

Agreed the Sonus Grey is an aggresssive clay - hence my advice in the "how to" to choose a gentle/mild clay.

A quick google on Sonus Green - 1st two hits:

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Stor ... ductId=484

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detailing ... d_327.html

Seems to suggest that Sonus Green is one of the most gentle clays available :wink:

Dave


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## M9fdb

i am loving this section of the forum and only just found it - jsut read all your tips Dave and will be putting a few into pratisce this week as i am prepping my MGF for a show on sunday


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## keithsto

By double strength shampoo solution do you mean the same as for washing just with double the amount of shampoo e.g. 4 capfuls to a bucket instead of 2 to a bucket?

Cheers.


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## Jac-in-a-Box

keithsto said:


> By double strength shampoo solution do you mean the same as for washing just with double the amount of shampoo e.g. 4 capfuls to a bucket instead of 2 to a bucket?
> 
> Cheers.


That's about it Keith...makes it slippery enough for the clay not to stick to the paint 

Dave


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## The Rainman

Svissvax yellow clay bar, done as instructed re clay bar size shape, managed to do the roof before the clay bar started sticking to my fingers, nightmare to peel off, just spent 15 mins scouring it off my hands, how do I stop it sticking all over my fingers ? Gloves perhaps ?


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## The Rainman

Sussed it, use the small piece of wrapper it comes sealed in cool, just done the bonnet, rinsed it and now all I have is loads of horrible fine score marks that will not wash off, please someone tell me the pre wax cleaner will remove these, clay bar is just about in the bin. HELP !! Am I a numpty ? Am I doing something wrong ?? New piece of bar smooth strokes over paintwork, no dirt on bar, loads of fine scratch lines now for free, I give up.


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## Jac-in-a-Box

Cleaner fluid will remove the marks...did you use the supplied lub? If so, try mixing a couple of teasppons of shampoo in 0.5 litre of waterand use that via a trigger spray as a lub.

I've PM'd you my No - give me a call and lets see if we can sort you out
(you're the first in years to have made an ar*e of it :wink: )

Dave


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## The Rainman

sent pm cheers Trev


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## Welsh Auditor

Although now much more commonly used in the detailing fraternity
than even one or two years ago, the clay bar is still one of
detailings best kept secrets. Using a clay bar can significantly
improve the surface of your paintwork to give a silk smooth finish
and ultimately help achieve the incredibly deep shine you are
always looking for.

So what is it, why does it work and how do you use it...?

Unless you are fortunate enough to be able to keep your motor 
sealed in a giant glass display case, it will always be subject to 
attack from air and water borne pollution from the second it leaves 
the factory paint shop.

Much of this pollution and contamination ("dirt") is so fine it is
virtually invisible but can comprise of many common particles
such as brake dust, acid rain, road film and tar and many other 
fine particles from factories, fires etc. All of which, at
some point, come falling down and begin to bond into the surface of
your paintwork. And whilst you can't see it, will make the surface
of your paint rough and begin the process of oxidisation.

Of course some of this "dirt" can be removed by washing or pre-wax
cleaning compounds - but not all of it. This is where the clay bar
comes into it's own.

Clay bars have been used extensively in bodyshops for many years,
primarily for the removal of overspray.

What is a Clay Bar?

Essentially clay is a flexible putty like substance with an
extremely light polishing quality that when used with a suitable
lubricant will apply a polishing action to remove microscopic and
other protrusions from your paint surface, without affecting the
underlying paint.

Thus effectively removing contaminant particles protruding above
the surface of your paint to make it extremely smooth to the touch
and much much cleaner.

Our first experience...

When Ali and I first encountered clay bars, we were to say the
least, very skeptical. After all we were washing, cleaning, polishing and
waxing to get a brilliant shine - So how could there be anymore
"dirt" on our paintwork?

All I can say is be prepared for a surprise. The first time we used
it, after a good wash we were amazed at the brown film that quickly
covered the surface of our clay bar, and all from the "dirt" we
couldn't see.

But the best was yet to come - the smoothness of the
paint surface was even more amazing. At the time we didn't think we
could get it any smoother than we had been doing - but boy were we
wrong.

So essentially, when used the clay bar will remove the residual
contaminants from the surface of your paintwork without being
abrasive to the paint itself and therefore ensuring the smoothest
possible surface for polishing and waxing. After all the last thing
you want to do is put a wax or sealant on your paint and
effectively seal in surface "dirt" that is still present.

So how do you use it...?

The key to using clay safely, is lubrication. The ideal lubricant
being one that is specially formulated for use with clay, such as
Pinnacle Clay Lubricant and does not contain a high degree of
alcohol in its formula. Alternatively a fresh dilution mix of a
quality motor wash shampoo can also be used as an effective
lubricant, as long as you have plenty on hand.

The first step is to thoroughly wash and dry your motor. Again
using a quality motor shampoo.As with most detailing, claying 
should not be done in direct sunlight or on hot surfaces.

A good idea before you start is to cut your clay bar into 2 or 3 
smaller pieces, depending on the original size. Thus if you 
accidentally drop your bar, you have some uncontaminated clay 
to continue with. If you do accidentally drop your clay on the ground, 
do not attempt to pick the grit out or knead it round so you can't 
see them - THROW IT AWAY.

It is also a good idea to roll or knead the clay before use to
ensure it is as soft and malleable as possible. After having done
this, simply flatten out your clay across your fingers and you are
ready to proceed.

Next...

Spray your lubricant onto a small area of your paintwork. Always
work in small areas and not whole panels at a time. Then spray your
clay with the lubricant and rub, with a medium to light pressure in
a forwards/backwards motion across the paint surface. Always
ensuring you do not allow the lubricant to dry out in the area
being worked.

It will only take a few passes across your paint to feel the
difference. Once you are happy that you have a smoother surface or
a visible contaminant has been removed, such as a tar spot or
overspray, then wipe over with a quality microfibre cloth and move
on to the next section.

Remember to keep a regular check on your clay bar. If it pulls away
large particles of "dirt" such as tar spots, pick these out
immediately. And when your clay starts to become "dirty" then knead
it over to expose a fresh surface.

And Finally...

Don't forget to give your paintwork a final wash and dry to remove
any residue from the lubricant.

You are now ready to polish and wax over what should now been and
extremely clean and smooth surface. As in many things it is
ultimately the time and preparation put in at the beginning that
will determine the quality of the finish at the end. And clay
barring is no exception.

If you have not used clay before we hope this has given you the
insight to give it a try and if you are already using it we hope it
has given you a better understanding of how and why you should
continue.

And on a final note, you should only need to clay once or twice a
year and when you have finished and if your clay is not too dirty
then safely store it away in a clean plastic closable container or
sealable polythene bag, to ensure it does not pick dirt and dust
whilst not in use.

Here's hoping the good weather lasts into the bank holiday weekend.

Best Wishes

Rob & Ali

Edited to remove your Co name - advertising! Naughty 

Dave


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## Welsh Auditor

Sorry Dave - it's not my company, they just sent me an email.


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## Singletrack

This is an excellent write up. Using a clay bar for the first time is pretty unnerving. Badly used, with insufficient lubricant or not "turned" when dirty, a clay bar will mar the paint which will require a machine polisher to correct.

I've been using a clay bar on my cars for about seven years now. I clay bar the wife's Range Rover Sport once a year (the thing is an enormous surface to work on) and have not needed to do the TT since I got it (one year ago now).

My test for the need to clay bar is to take a piece of cellophane wrap (Saran Wrap to name a brand) and run it across a front fender or the bonnet. If it catches on anything - you have surface contaminants and need to clay bar. So far, my paint is still like glass (although a daily driver, the car goes from one garage at home into a garage at the office).

It is pointless to machine polish a car with any surface contaminant still in place.


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## johnny cobra

Hi I have lifeshine protection on my TT . Will clay bar remove it ?? 

JC :mrgreen:


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## Jac-in-a-Box

johnny cobra said:


> Hi I have lifeshine protection on my TT . Will clay bar remove it ??
> 
> JC :mrgreen:


No!

Dave


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## johnny cobra

Thanks Dave  Can you recomend what clay bar to use ???? 

JC :mrgreen:


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## Jac-in-a-Box

johnny cobra said:


> Thanks Dave  Can you recomend what clay bar to use ????
> 
> JC :mrgreen:


Certainly - bottom of the first post on this thread :wink:

Dave


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## johnny cobra

Hi Dave Is it expencive ?? Can i get it through you ??

John :mrgreen:


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## johnny cobra

Hey Dave Just been reading about the liquid leather and conditioner WOW what a differance it makes  Where do i get it from ?? i must get some . My leather is grey and is starting to show small cracking . YUK must do it .

JOHN :mrgreen:


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## 77rons

my 51reg mauritius blue TT is really dull. the paints smokey looking. it appears almost flat/matt in colour. i'd like the sparkle back. is the paint too contaminated? would a claybar take enough impurities out to freshen the paint? i've tried T-cut and autoglym super resin polish. the paint was smooth but it didnt fix the colour! in direct sun it glitters but at any other time it horrible looking. please help!!


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## Rhod_TT

I'm not sure if this is only me but I find that having a bucket of very hot water to put the clay in before it goes near the car softens it up nicely allowing it to pick up even more crud. Still use the lube spray and the stretch/fold method and just drop it back in the water when it cools and hardens. And if you have 2 pieces on the go then one can be in use while the other is resoftening in the bucket of water. Works for me with the sonus green anyway.


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## denimblue225turbo

I must say that I always use meguairs products and i find they clay bar/qucik clay kit is excellent....use the lubericant and work about a foot square at a time and the results are excellent. I bought my TT from my land lord and there neighbour had there fencing sprayed white and it had loads of over spray all over the bonnet, front bumber, drivers side door, front arch, rear arch/wing....i washed the car and it didnt touch it so i then clayed it and its perfect and it only took about an hour and i can only stand on one leg.lol


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## Charlie

Glad to hear you rate the Meguiars, I have just picked some up this afternoon and come on here to read up on how best to do it, then saw the negative comments about it and thought "oh bugger" ;-)

If the weather holds out tomorrow I shall give it a go ;-)

Charlie


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## Hipflyguy

Don't worry about it Charlie...

I was a clay virgin til late last year, and did three cars with it, and gave good polish afterwards, you'll be amazed at the crap these things pick up... Mine was like glass after, did it all just in time for winter to set in...


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## Charlie

Looking forward to doing it but the weather has conspired against me today 

Charlie


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## DAZTTC

Meguiars is just fine Charlie i think it works very well.

DAZ


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## TT Ade

Claying isn't a problem, just make sure you have plenty of lube on the paintwork.


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## ELLIOTT

Clayed my car with Meguiars clay bar today, I was amazed at how much crap these things pick up!!! My car looked clean, now its like glass and i have not even polished it yet. Just make sure you dont rush it and you will get good results!


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## MrHooky

Guys is it really that good? I'm washing with Megs gold class which seems half descent, and I used AG Super Resin Polish followed by some R222 Carnauba about 4 weeks ago. Car still looking good and beading although being an OCD car washer I think I've missed a trick and won't be happy now till I get the chance to clay!

Seriously, for someone who's not clayed before, how long will it take me to do the TT? It's not a big car but I'm not a patient person, plus I'm worried I'll balls it up.

Going to buy some and have a think about whether I should use it or not...!


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## denimblue225turbo

MrHooky said:


> Guys is it really that good? I'm washing with Megs gold class which seems half descent, and I used AG Super Resin Polish followed by some R222 Carnauba about 4 weeks ago. Car still looking good and beading although being an OCD car washer I think I've missed a trick and won't be happy now till I get the chance to clay!
> 
> Seriously, for someone who's not clayed before, how long will it take me to do the TT? It's not a big car but I'm not a patient person, plus I'm worried I'll balls it up.
> 
> Going to buy some and have a think about whether I should use it or not...!


If you have got ocd for cleaning cars then i think you will love the clay kit, the paintwork comes out sooooooo smooth like glass its amazing stuff, when you do it, do something like half your bonnet or roof and then feel the difference between the two sides. Just make sure you use plenty of the spray to cover where you're gonna clay then you cant really go wrong. Do it once you've washed the car, then polish, then wax and the finish will be outstanding.
As for how long it takes to do, really depends on how much crap is on your paint to start with but anywhere between an hour and two hours i would say (obviously with ocd it could take you a day :lol


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## ScoobyTT

I've seen the tip on here for using double-concentrated car shampoo (or presumably Johnson's Baby Bath ) instead of a dedicated clay lube. Has anyone tried both who could compare the two?


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## langlord

I have been using clay for about the past 5 years having been one of the 'mothers' show cars, and I have always found it makes a huge difference before then moving onto the next stages of car cleaning/waxing.

I have since moved on to Bilt Hamber clay they do both a soft and medium compound, both of which I think are excellent value in terms of how much you get and also they claim to be suitable to use with just water, though like some I always add an additional lubricant such as shampoo.


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## Maxypoop77

Langlord...
Just looked at the bilit clay! For £9.99 I can get a soft 200g bar! Seems pretty good! 
I have no idea if my car has been clayed in 5 years! I presume not! I'm worried it will scratch my car by causing swirls from the dirt... But because you've used clay for 5 years there isn't enough dirt to cause scratches if you catch my drift?

Also do I polish and then wax after the clay or just wax?

Max


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## davelincs

i always polish then wax, it gives a deeper / better shine


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## langlord

Claying in essence is another level of cleaning as others have said, with the purpose of removing those contaminants that are actually bonded onto the paintwork.

Before claying though COMPLETELY CLEAN the car as throughly as possible so that all the lose contaminats and dirt are removed. The main guide on the front page is spot on, just move from panel to panel and when ever the clay starts to show noticable signs of dirt fold over to a clean side. if you drop the clay though get rid of it unless you can definately remove the section that had contact with the floor.

Some people suggest that you should work in horizental lines and then go back over the same area in virtical lines or vis-versa.

Once finished I personally wash the car again to remove all traces of the lubricant and then move onto the next stages.

After this if you have not cleaned it properly in a while move onto a polish this will reduce the swirl marks (deeper marks may require a cutting agent) and then move onto wax. In terms of what wax to use I think everyone argues about this I have recently moved over to Bilt's stuff which is synthetic based.

When waxing I think most would agree that you should apply as thin a coat as possible and aim for at least 2.


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## ScoobyTT

Personally I found claying produced more scratches than I already had (next to none) so I was not a happy bunny. Oddly it only did so on the sides whereas the bonnet was fine. :? It's the last time I clay though, which is great because it saves me a load of work that achieved nothing. :lol:


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## poonamt93

Thanks, was looking forward to such info, what took you so long for sharing it. Hope to see such informative stuff in future.


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## denimblue225turbo

the only way you would get scratches from claying is if the car had dirt on it, it has no way of scratching it on its own :?


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## ScoobyTT

:? You'd like to think so (and do did I!) but the car was washed twice prior to starting, rinsed well, left wet, lubed, and the clay regularly folded/turned. Less dirt was coming off on the side I did than when I did the bonnet, which worked out ok. The car looked great, but when I turned it to the sun to check the result it was swirled to smeg and the paint was fine before. I didn't get why, but I'm not risking claying again if that can happen. I had to go over the area several times with Super Resin Polish to get the paint back to being as slick as it was.


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## beeyondGTR

used clay magic clay bar #CM1200 or your choice of clay bar..... but the meguiar's Mirror Glaze Synthetic Spray Detailer Item..

is going to make a hugh difference using a dish soap or something like that is a no-no even a detailers spray wax would be OK

and dry off 100% cotton terry and when done put a nice light or regular coat of wax


















again this is a 2002 with 92,000 on it


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## E5ttMAN

great write up, ive printed it off and using it over the weekend and enjoying the masters


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## Gazzer

after a recent TTOC event in weston super mud and paulc1 telling me i need to clay the body i have ordered a bar and will take her to work and as said wash her thoroughly and then rinse her off before doing the clay method......nervy after scoobs comments but she is rough so can it really hurt?


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## Jac-in-a-Box

Gazzer said:


> ......nervy after scoobs comments but she is rough so can it really hurt?


Nothing to be nervy about Gaz - follow the advice given in the "how-to"....thoroughly wash, don't drop the clay, fold over to expose a new surface when the clay is dirty, plenty of lub and if doing it on a windy dry day, hose it down to remove wind bourne dust/grit.

I've clayed 100's of cars and can honestly say I haven't caused any damage through carrying out this vital part of paint cleaning prep' 

Dave


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## Gazzer

well Dave with the queen forcing me to shut up shop for two days i will have a big empty factory to work in on my own :? 
will let you know how it goes bud and thanks again for the how to guide


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## Rmfx

Clayed my car yesterday with mets clay and detailer spray as a lube. Did a great job and removed the baked on insect remains that I previously couldn't shift!


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## ttpos

l have used clay bar on mine this wkend even the windscreen really great stuff 8)


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## dak2v

Excellent advice here for claying your car thanks


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## dan00001

afater reading this guide on saturday i went out and bought a g3 professional clay bar and clayed my tt(was my first ever time using a clay bar) i thoroughly enjoyed doing it and i am amazed at how shiney the paintwork now looks, especially in the sun! So id like to say a hugee thankyou to you for writing this guide and all the others you have done! i have read your leather care guide and i am about to read your advice on what wax to use, both on the agenda for the weekend!

In your clay bar guide you wrote "It won't remove scratches, swirls or other paint blemishes; we'll discuss that later" i was just wondering if you have or are going to do a guide on removing swirls/light scratches ect. as i think would be a great help. thanks, atb, dan.


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## jacobmwatson

Been fan of the difference clay barring can make. Nsver had the grasp to do it myself though. Your tips have given me the courage and Ill be doing it next time the weather is nice enough.


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## CATELUS

Great tips shared on here !
Eager to get the job done now!


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## CATELUS

dan00001 said:


> In your clay bar guide you wrote "It won't remove scratches, swirls or other paint blemishes; we'll discuss that later" i was just wondering if you have or are going to do a guide on removing swirls/light scratches ect. as i think would be a great help. thanks, atb, dan.


To remove swirls & paint blemishes, watch this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgSLEVi_ ... F54166C886


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## blz-8027

Always scared on how far to go with these polishers


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## davedixie57

Clay
I had never known about clay, till I came across this thread by chance two weeks ago. I had just noticed how much contamination my white TT had when inspected close up, and was starting to tackle it with polish and rags. So on reading this article I went to my local shop and got an Autoglym Clay kit.
Amazing how easy the clay bar removed all the black dots leaving a smooth and pure white finish ready for polishing.
I'm sure other kits are just as good for a first timer to clay. I also thought this was just for the show guys, but so easy to do with fantastic results, it will now be a regular task. And I might experiment with other clay bars as mentioned by other contributors to this thread. Cheers guys.


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## snap

gonna have to give this a try


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## Jimbo007

I have used a clay mitt and is really easy to use and by the sounds of things has an identical outcome to a clay bar but is much faster and less effort. I have used it a 5 or 6 now times and still looks like more in it. £12.99 from Halfords who often have a 3 for 2.


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## Jackieham

I'm looking at having a go claying with a bilt hamber clay bar which only needs water as a lubricant, apparently. Has anyone else used this make of clay bar and was it as good as the other big names?


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## Byne_88




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## kennydiesagain

I use clay bar all the time but noticed i had run out when cleaning the wife car and came across a clay mitt at halfords that works just as well but is easier to use.


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## chazhs88

Thanks for the guide


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## Sumner

Today i Clay Barred my TT following JAK-IN-A-BOX instructions, Awesome Results,i did the Windows and wheels too, IMHO the Bar is Better than the MITT because the bar you can feel the stubborn bits which some i just picked off with my nail, with a Mitt your just sailing over them like you did when you first washed it. Thanks JIAB


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## mwad

Jackieham said:


> I'm looking at having a go claying with a bilt hamber clay bar which only needs water as a lubricant, apparently. Has anyone else used this make of clay bar and was it as good as the other big names?


I started using this last year-it's my favourite so far....


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## Shytalk

Theres some interesting info here, I have a clay bar but never used it yet as I hadn't found an easy to read user guide, guess I don't have that excuse now..... :roll:


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## MT-V6

I tried Autofinesse clay bar and lube over the weekend and was impressed. It is also good value compared to the Meguires I used last time and did just as good a job. The clay is tougher to stretch though


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