# The dreaded remote fob problem!!



## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

Okay, please bear with me as I try to explain my issue here. My remote central locking does not work, at all, using the buttons on the key fob. I know that the central locking works perfectly as when manually locking the door, all the doors lock and when I unlock the drivers door and put the key in the ignition, it then unlocks all the doors. 
I have tried the re-sync procedure for the key, however it doesn't seem to be working, no matter how many times I press the button. The batteries are fine as I have tested the key fob with an RF tester and all is fine. 
I have also tried to program using VCDS, but chucks up an error on channel 01 & 21 saying they aren't available. Using the measuring blocks for 35 - Central Locks, I can see that there is the memory position for the key fob, and when I press the buttons for lock, unlock and boot release, VCDS registered those buttons being pressed but the car didn't react with actually unlocking them! Second to that, the range measuring block shows 0.0?

I am beginning to pull my hair out with this car and just seems to be problem after problem and I am just at wits end now! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Oh, also I have checked the dreaded CCM which is bone dry and fine. Wiring also appears fine. Could it just be the central locking aerial?


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Have you tried in both doors? My re-sync (on a 2000 car) would only work in the passenger door.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

If vcds registered the buttons being pressed then the ariel is ok and the control module is receiving a signal.
It could be that the code the fob is sending is incorrect or the control module is faulty and not recognising the code to be correct.
How did you re sync the key?
You need to follow the correct procedure. 
One key in ignition in on position, but engine stopped.
Other key in the drivers door lock from outside and lock with key manually.
Then, with key still in lock and within a few seconds, press UNLOCK button ONCE on that key. Indicators will flash.
Remove key from door lock, wait 10 seconds and test.


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> If vcds registered the buttons being pressed then the ariel is ok and the control module is receiving a signal.
> It could be that the code the fob is sending is incorrect or the control module is faulty and not recognising the code to be correct.
> How did you re sync the key?
> You need to follow the correct procedure.
> ...


Yes I've tried that procedure and I get no lights, no lock sound, nothing.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Has a key fob outer case been replaced?


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Has a key fob outer case been replaced?


No, not as far as I'm aware. It is the genuine outer case.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Well if both keys have the chips in them it could well be the control module.

Have you tried disconecting the battery for 15 mins then try to resync fobs after?


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Well if both keys have the chips in them it could well be the control module.
> 
> Have you tried disconecting the battery for 15 mins then try to resync fobs after?


Yeah tried and and had absolutely nothing. Apart from a now dud radio that I can't use because the radio wasn't the original TT one so it's stuck in safe mode

So could be looking at a new CCM?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

not sure as it's strange everything will lock off the internal buttons.

Hang on to see if anyone else has some input

When i got mine i had trouble with the fobs cos i had put cheap batteries in them. Put duracell in and have been fine for 2 year. Worth a look at.


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> not sure as it's strange everything will lock off the internal buttons.
> 
> Hang on to see if anyone else has some input
> 
> When i got mine i had trouble with the fobs cos i had put cheap batteries in them. Put duracell in and have been fine for 2 year. Worth a look at.


Yeah I had a brief look inside (which is why I'm trying to work out why it won't re-sync with the car using either method) and saw it was using TWO batteries of 3V each. It wouldn't lock on the buttons even before I took the fob apart to check the batteries.

I'm more inclined to say either CCM module itself or aerial. As the fob sends an RF signal fine, so battery isn't dud. But looking on VCDS on the measuring blocks the range reads 0.0, which to me means the aerial receiver for the remote is either fucked or dodgy wiring etc...


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Ariel is in the drivers door taped along the length of the top spar


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Ariel is in the drivers door taped along the length of the top spar


That seems almost too easy to find!! You wouldn't by any chance have a picture of exactly where it's located in the door?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

No sorry got no pics. I only spotted it cos i had my door card off for a sticky window and i had to replace the tape holding it on cos it was hanging off
could only find a pic of the passenger door but i have highlighted the area it was taped to.


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> No sorry got no pics. I only spotted it cos i had my door card off for a sticky window and i had to replace the tape holding it on cos it was hanging off
> could only find a pic of the passenger door but i have highlighted the area it was taped to.


Hmmm... that is strange because I have nothing there on my door!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Strange, i just presumed it was the antenna as its a single black wire to no where.
Unless some one has added it for better range.
I can't find where the antenna actually is with google


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Just taken my card off as I needed to get the rubber back in correctly and just found out how to do it.its a grey wire under the silver tape


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## mrr1 (Jun 17, 2019)

mines been doing this over the past few weeks as well. Remote works, then doesn't. Unlock the car using the key blade then have the joy of getting the alrm to turn off (disconnected the siren so at least its quiet....)

Try to resync the keys and all is well. 
For about five minutes they may work. Or maybe not.

The only workaround that seems to work for me is as follows (YMMV)
- put key into door lock
- turn to lock, then unlock, then lock, then unlock
- then (whilst key is still in the lock) press the lock / unlock button.
- if the car responds to the button then great, otherwise try again.

at this point the car suddenly remembers the key code and works off the remote. At least this way I can start the car without the hazards going off.

I'm assuming its a CCM problem but I'm going to try new fob batteries and / or a battery disconnect before stripping anything out.


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Just taken my card off as I needed to get the rubber back in correctly and just found out how to do it.its a grey wire under the silver tape


Do you know if that's from factory or if someone has done that? As mine has nothing like that at all? So I'm wondering is it something someone has done to get around the range issue, or is it something I'm missing that should be there from factory??


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

mrr1 said:


> mines been doing this over the past few weeks as well. Remote works, then doesn't. Unlock the car using the key blade then have the joy of getting the alrm to turn off (disconnected the siren so at least its quiet....)
> 
> Try to resync the keys and all is well.
> For about five minutes they may work. Or maybe not.
> ...


I'll have to see if that works, but I'm not holding much hope as nothing else seems to have worked, but it's worth a try at least! I've already changed fob batteries and disconnected the car battery and nothing so far has worked! So I seem to now be looking at more of a CCM issue! Will have to be a weekend off job I think!


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

GoldingS94 said:


> davebowk said:
> 
> 
> > Just taken my card off as I needed to get the rubber back in correctly and just found out how to do it.its a grey wire under the silver tape
> ...


I don't know but the original tape looks very old and is a type of duct tape but only about 20mm wide.

Mines a 2003 so maybe something with later models. I presume yours is an earlier one with the fob having 2 batteries.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

mrr1 said:


> at this point the car suddenly remembers the key code and works off the remote. At least this way I can start the car without the hazards going off.


It never forgot it.
Either fob or CCM forgot its position in the pseudorandom rolling code sequence.
You just performed the key fob resynchronisation procedure and reset it.


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## mrr1 (Jun 17, 2019)

pcbbc said:


> mrr1 said:
> 
> 
> > at this point the car suddenly remembers the key code and works off the remote. At least this way I can start the car without the hazards going off.
> ...


I've got two keys and the older one tends to work more often than the other new one. One will simply not be recognised then the other works perfectly well. Resync them and all is good. My gut tells me to trust the keys more than the car. Problem gets worse on really hot days just like the dashpod used to. I'm assuming the CCM is full of niggles like the dashpod which used to (expanding solder joints etc)

A weekend tinkering job. Thankfully the car is only a backup so I can afford to take my time and live with the quirks.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

mrr1 said:


> I've got two keys and one tends to work more often than the other.


One key consistently working, and the other not implies a fault with the key; not with the CCM.



> Resync them and all is good.


"Them"????
You only need to resync the one that isn't working.
A resync using one key cannot/does not effect the synchronisation state of the others.


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## mrr1 (Jun 17, 2019)

pcbbc said:


> "Them"????
> You only need to resync the one that isn't working.
> A resync using one key cannot/does not effect the synchronisation state of the others.


Yes - both. They both fail. Sometimes syncing one will cause the other to be "forgotten". And, yes, I know to use different segments of the four spaces available to code. I keep the original key on number 1 and the newer one in 3 or 4.

Like I said I need to try a decent battery and full reset before I start stripping outvtrim, etc. At this point my gut is still telling me it's something in the car. Probably because of my experience with the dashpod.


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## GoldingS94 (Apr 26, 2020)

davebowk said:


> GoldingS94 said:
> 
> 
> > davebowk said:
> ...


Mine is indeed an early 2002. So could be? It is very frustrating that I feel like I'm stealing my own car having to unlock the car then stick key in the ignition to disengage the immobiliser and unlock all the doors! Plus opening the boot is always a pain having to go through the car, especially if I've locked it and just need to get in the boot but I can't  
Never mind. I'll get it sorted eventually, even if I have to buy a new (used but working) CCM!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

mrr1 said:


> Yes - both. They both fail. Sometimes syncing one will cause the other to be "forgotten". And, yes, I know to use different segments of the four spaces available to code. I keep the original key on number 1 and the newer one in 3 or 4.


Then you assumption it is the CCM would appear correct.
Although the slots advice only applies to the "reprogram" sequence. That requires at least 2 keys, one key in ignition.
The "resync" process keeps the same slot as originally programmed.


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