# Spring Tune up 2022



## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I hope the next time someone asks about a catch can setup or a PCV delete they should be given the link to my video. Saves themselves a massive headache and lots of money.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Here's a quick video about the ECS high efficiency OEM+ PCV air-oil seperator with the ECS an fitting adapters to include a catch can into the setup. New for 2022


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I've picked up a complete OEM+ suspension improvement setup. An unboxing video will drop tomorrow on this thread. 

1 CTS turbo upgraded motor mount
2 CTS turbo upgraded transmission mount
3 CTS turbo upgraded front subframe collar inserts and bolt kit
4 CTS turbo upgraded rear subframe collar inserts and bolt kit


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Did you get new stretch bolts to go with your mounts?


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> Did you get new stretch bolts to go with your mounts?


Absolutely


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Are CTS Turbo products absolute rubbish? 

I'm not sure until I try my current products out, however, there have been some slight jabs at CTS Turbo from various sources stating that they rip off other brands RND and have the parts mass produced in Asia. I'm not 100% sure but I have found their catch can kits on "Aliexpress" along with a bunch of other products they carry. Ironically it was due to CTS Turbo parts that I stumbled upon the "Aliexpress" website. Why am I bringing this up? 

Well..... many people have mentioned that the CTS Turbo OEM+ motor & transmission mounts are identical to the 034 Motorsports mounts and I've even seen a video where the 034 motorsports guys claim that "someone" has knocked them off, again all this could just be massive amounts of speculation but I'll be a Devils advocate and say I'm a bit disappointed in the mounts regardless of who designed them. But before I dive into why, here's some info from both 034 & CTS.

We're proud to announce the availability of the Density Line Engine Mount Pair for MkV & MkVI Chassis Volkswagen and 8P & 8J Chassis Audi models!
034Motorsport's Density Line Mounts are the new standard in comfort and performance. Our mounts are redesigned with performance in mind, and manufactured from high-durometer rubber for increased performance and durability, without sacrificing comfort. Density Line Mounts are fluid-free, eliminating the slop associated with the factory mounts.
*Street Density:*
The Street Density Engine Mount Pair is manufactured from 60 durometer rubber, which is approximately 35% stiffer than stock. Since the mounts are also solid-filled, the resulting mount is approximately 60% stiffer than stock. The cast aluminum mount bodies have also been redesigned to cope with the added stress of spirited driving.
The result is greatly reduced drivetrain slop, crisper shifting, and minimal wheel hop, without any significant increase in noise, vibration, or harshness (NVH) inside of the cabin. These mounts are a completely re-engineered performance solution, not just inserts for use with the factory mounts.

*Features:*

Manufactured from 60 Durometer _(Street Density) _Rubber with Fluid-Free Construction
Reduced Drivetrain Slop
Decreased Engine Movement Under Load
More Direct Power Transfer
Improved Shifting Feel
Complete Drop-In Replacement of Factory Engine/Transmission Mounts
Sold in Pairs _(One Engine Mount & One Transmission Mount)_
*High-Durometer Rubber vs. Polyurethane:*
Density Line Mounts are manufactured from high-durometer rubber instead of polyurethane for a number of reasons. While vulcanized rubber mounts are more expensive to prototype due to increased complexity of manufacturing and high initial tooling costs, rubber is inherently better than polyurethane as a damping medium for mounts and bushings.
Rubber is able to deal with stress under both tension and compression, while polyurethane mounts rely on the damping medium to be effective only under compression. Rubber is also excellent in shear, where polyurethane is ineffective, making it ideal for control arm bushings that apply a shear force to the bushing during articulation.
Rubber does not pack and wear like polyurethane does, which ultimately results in a long-lasting part with consistent performance and comfort.
*Street Density vs. Track Density:
We recommend Street Density Mounts for all daily-driven vehicles.* They offer a significant increase in performance with a minimal increase in NVH transfer into the cabin. Track Density Mounts are recommended for purpose-built track cars, or those who do not mind significantly increased engine noise and vibration in the cabin.
*NOTE:* This Street Density Mount application features stiffer and less compliant rubber, however, the mount is not designed to see significantly larger amounts of abuse, as Density Mounts use a similar design and construction to the OEM mounts. This means that driving dynamics are improved, but these mounts are not necessarily suited for more punishing applications or abuse. Normal "sport driving" will typically see these mounts lasting up to 50k miles or more. More abusive use, such as aggressive drag racing, clutch dumps, aggressive shifting, and big increases in power, can cause these mounts to fail or wear prematurely, typically in 20k miles or less. For mounts that will sustain the latter abusive scenarios, we strongly recommend our Motorsport Mounts which are designed for specifically for such use.










*DESCRIPTION*
CTS Turbo is excited to announce our line of Street Sport 60 Durometer engine mounts.
The CTS street performance engine mounts are a perfect upgrade for your factory mounts which are known to wear over time leading to drivetrain play and sloppiness during shifting. A void-free non-liquid construction using 60 Durometer rubber offers a significant upgrade to performance and feel over the stock mount. The result is a 60% improvement in stiffness over stock that is daily driving friendly.
Features:
• 60 Durometer Rubber construction
• Cast aluminum wrap-around OEM style body
• Direct bolt on replacement for OEM mount
• More direct shifting
• Improved power transfer


















If you take a look through my CLOSER LOOK VIDEO you'll see that the interior rubber mounts inside look like multiple pieces of rubber just slotted in together like Lego blocks. Maybe it's just me, maybe its my naïve imagination that there was going to be one solid rubber block inside the OEM case, but that wasn't the case scenario. Truth be told since I've already purchased the setup I'm going to give it a try and relay my experiences. 

Truth be told I'm only involved in spirited driving when I auto cross and the occasional quarter mile, its not like I need a track setup. Anyways enjoy the video and let me know what you think.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

It's hard to say who ripping off who.

Personally I don't think there is a lot of R&D going on with any of the aftermarket parts manufacturers. Certainly not at the level or budget an auto manufacturer has access to.

Any company that has access to a CNC machine can crank out widgets, and not surprisingly widgets that look remarkably similar to each other... and to be truthful, the target market for aftermarket parts are peps who generally don't have a background in engineering, physics or auto mechanics so there is no problem selling their crap wares (regardless of their value or 'effectiveness')

In the case of 034 vs CTS, replacing the fluid filled insert with a solid rubber bushing (using a factory housing) isn't a real leap in engineering. Maybe one hit the market before the other, BFD.

Can't see one company claiming that hours of research were 'stolen' based on that idea.
If anything both companies ripped off the engineer who designed the first fluid-filled damper and then want bragging-rights for "dumbing" it down.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *FNChaos* - Loved your comments. Harsh, but oh so true!


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> It's hard to say who ripping off who.
> 
> Personally I don't think there is a lot of R&D going on with any of the aftermarket parts manufacturers. Certainly not at the level or budget an auto manufacturer has access to.
> 
> ...



That's a great way of looking at it. Always as thought provoking as ever 👍


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I picked this OBD2 smartphone blue tooth reader called FIXD. Aside from all the shitty stuff that's happened to the car, (scratchy humming sound from the turbo) for example I've come to realize that there's more than just a bad turbo or blown head gasket. Great tool that I recommend for educational purposes.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

For all of the Canadian TT owners, feel free to join the club.

All the best


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Hi all,

Update, I am waiting on the HPA K04 HYBRID TURBO to arrive here in Atlantic Canada so that I can finally fix all of the little issues my car is having and get back on the road. There have been some supply issues and that's delayed HPA from putting the turbo together and shipping them out as fast as they can.

However, do not worry as I will commit to a complete unboxing and comparison video on the turbo.

Stay tuned.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I was fiddling around with the WMI nozzle and the throttle body spacer and realized that it won't fit flush, even if I thread it all the way in. Which brings up a question for all those running water methanol, how flush did you setup your nozzles and why? 

Depressed, flush or poke?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Standard fitting is 1/8" NPT. NPT is a tapered thread, so it will never thread all the way in like a machine screw or similar type of thread.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Standard fitting is 1/8" NPT. NPT is a tapered thread, so it will never thread all the way in like a machine screw or similar type of thread.



I figured my nozzle wouldn't be completely flush and therefore remain slightly depressed (typically a good thing for atomization), but my curiosity was the reasoning why others running WMI would mount their nozzles past flush. For example intercooler pipes, intake manifolds etc. The first few CM's past the nozzle exit the WM mix is still very much a stream of fluid before separating into water droplets. If its beneficial to have a depressed nozzle in order to have a maturing spray cone pattern into the air stream. 

However I see a lot of setups do the opposite and figured I'd ask why.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

According to the following doc I found @ https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/Sno201.pdf

Page 6, Quote:
_“Install the nozzle at a 90°angle to the direction of airflow, and so that the nozzle tip is flush with the inside of the intake tube or protruding slightly to ensure an uninterrupted spray pattern. Ensure the nozzles cone of spray has no obstructions near the mounting location.”

“Install the nozzle assembly into the threaded intake tube using E-6000 sealant on the nozzle threads.”

Page10, “Do not use Teflon tape or paste to seal connections. These sealers are not as effective as the E-6000 sealant provided and can break down over time with high methanol use, clogging components.”_


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> According to the following doc I found @ https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/Sno201.pdf
> 
> Page 6, Quote:
> _“Install the nozzle at a 90°angle to the direction of airflow, and so that the nozzle tip is flush with the inside of the intake tube or protruding slightly to ensure an uninterrupted spray pattern. Ensure the nozzles cone of spray has no obstructions near the mounting location.”
> ...



@FNChaos I understand the instruction manual, but that's solely based on the brands recommendations.

Please find two different installation manuals with two clearly different approaches to nozzle depth. 


















Both brands are reputable, both depicted their nozzle placements clearly. My curiosity stems from the reasoning behind the depressed, flush and protruding placement benefits.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

The above mounting suggestion was for a *Snow Performance* system.

Page 12 of this *AEM* system states, ”_In most instances, the air charge piping can be drilled and tapped for 1/8” NPT to directly mount the nozzle. If using thin walled tubing it’s suggested that a bung be welded to the piping. Mounting hole should be tapped deep enough to allow the end of the nozzle to be nearly flush with the interior of the intake once the nozzle is fully installed". _

See: https://www.aemelectronics.com/site...thanol_Injection-No_Tank_InstructionsRevC.pdf

In both cases 'flush or nearly flush' is suggested. Guessing a flush mount will allow the maximum amount of pattern 'spread' and will not cause any turbulence or a 'dead-zone' behind the nozzle tip.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> The above mounting suggestion was for a *Snow Performance* system.
> 
> Page 12 of this *AEM* system states, ”_In most instances, the air charge piping can be drilled and tapped for 1/8” NPT to directly mount the nozzle. If using thin walled tubing it’s suggested that a bung be welded to the piping. Mounting hole should be tapped deep enough to allow the end of the nozzle to be nearly flush with the interior of the intake once the nozzle is fully installed". _
> 
> ...


@FNChaos I'm not following the code here. Are you saying that sitting flush is the best and only option for nozzle placement? If so I would agree, but my comment about having some depression being good for the spray pattern and atomization still stands. If you notice, my snow performance nozzles are already depressed, therefore even if the nozzle were to be flush the initial stream is still a few cm/mm behind the mounting wall. Please see this video to see two different conical spray patterns both sitting flush.

Also there are many individuals that do not mount their nozzles flush or depressed but fully inside the "chamber" per this picture. I wondered why that was. If someone has an answer please do share.










I absolutely love the technical information sharing but I'm not sure what is being proven with our exchange of posts, aside from the fact that many people mount their nozzles differently.

The water jet technology and it's cone shape has progressed over the years, however there's lots of information that can still be shared. Hopefully more members running WMI can chime in and share their experiences and feedback. 

As far as my nozzle fitment is concerned I'll do my best to get it as flush as possible but if it sits slightly depressed I won't mind due to the conical spray pattern of the nozzle.









 

Looking forward to keeping everyone up to date.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I purchased this cat back exhaust system recently. I'll be receiving it later this month due to shipping.

The K04 shouldn't suffer from back pressure with a full 3' piping from the turbo to CAT and back to a baffle free back box and 2.5' twin outlets.

I'll take some picture of when it arrives. LINK


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

delmar.atlas said:


> Here's a quick video about the ECS high efficiency OEM+ PCV air-oil seperator with the ECS an fitting adapters to include a catch can into the setup. New for 2022


Just ditch the catch can. Why risk blowing another turbo? Engine oil is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from air. Without heating the oil it will just keep absobing moisture that can freeze.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Wolvez said:


> Just ditch the catch can. Why risk blowing another turbo? Engine oil is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from air. Without heating the oil it will just keep absobing moisture that can freeze.


The initial problem is with the $700CAD CTS mistake. I was stupid and believed the hype and slowly learned first hand the draw backs. The other $200 I spent on upgrading the small CTS can to a highflow RacingLine can and another $100 to add the drain valve were consequences of that mistake. Let's not even add the ECS tuning kit into this mix.

With well over a $1000 invested in the "catch can" upgrade I'm NOT going to simply ditch it. People can read this and other relevant threads and learn from my experiences.

The second and probably most important thing is that the CTS and all other billet aluminum PCV delete plates have poor design. The OEM PCV system is over engineered but it serves as an oil air separator which doesn't exactly "catch" all of the oil vapors before making its way into the turbo/IM.

The concept of the watery and oily vapor making its way to the IM to be burnt off isn't a bad idea, the consequences of having it build up on the valves is bad though. There's ways to deal with this whether it's walnut blasting, water methanol injection into the IM and or additional fuel injection over the valves.

Once the turbo starts sucking in the fumes from the PCV system its very likely that a car with a stage 2-3 setup will not allow the air oil separator to completely seperate the oil blow by due to the increased boost/vacuum created. Therefore a modified beyond stock motor should run a catch can to catch the potential oil and water before it makes its way through the turbo's compresor housing.

My take away:
Stock to stage 1 doesn't need a catch can setup, the OEM system is sufficient.

Stage 2, 2+, 3 etc, should run a catch can. 

A PCV system requires maintenance, like brakes, tires etc, it should not be thought of as a replace and forget type of item.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

delmar.atlas said:


> The initial problem is with the $700CAD CTS mistake. I was stupid and believed the hype and slowly learned first hand the draw backs. The other $200 I spent on upgrading the small CTS can to a highflow RacingLine can and another $100 to add the drain valve were consequences of that mistake. Let's not even add the ECS tuning kit into this mix.
> 
> *With well over a $1000 invested *in the "catch can" upgrade I'm NOT going to simply ditch it.


Just going to say, you should look up the term "sunk cost fallacy" before being so sure of continuing down the same path using this reasoning. As I said before you're free to do what you want with your own car but just saying it's actually quite beneficial to understand the sunken cost fallacy, not just for this but for many other things.



delmar.atlas said:


> Once the turbo starts sucking in the fumes from the PCV system its very likely that a car with a stage 2-3 setup will not allow the air oil separator to completely seperate the oil blow by due to the increased boost/vacuum created. Therefore a modified beyond stock motor should run a catch can to catch the potential oil and water before it makes its way through the turbo's compresor housing.
> 
> My take away:
> Stock to stage 1 doesn't need a catch can setup, the OEM system is sufficient.
> ...


I've had a K04 on my one car for about half it's life now (so nearly 5 years with it on and 50k+ kms). Never put a catch can on the car--never wanted to and never will. _Many others_ have run upgraded stages and turbos, without ever doing any catch can just the same. I've even been lucky enough _knocks on wood_ that my original PCV has never given me a problem despite being a common-failing part. I'm not sure how/why you're concluding that one "should" run a catch can at certain stages, but it is 100% *not* necessary IME; but again you're free to "take away" and mod/equip your car as you see fit as said. 

The other thing I worry about is that you haven't really diagnosed what's truly wrong with the car yet--is the turbo really an issue or is it fine, was the catch can responsible for the smoke out the back, is there some other problem, and what of the electrical issues with the cluster? Buying all these upgrade parts is all fine and dandy but what if you find out the engine needs to be rebuilt because of bad pistons/rings (which is a known problem on VL engines)? I was under the impression you wanted to keep this lower cost but seems like you've spent like $10k plus here just like that and still have to pay the labour for most of this stuff to go in (?), and still don't really know what issues the car had to start this all? Don't get me wrong, I spent my fair share of $$$ on my cars to be sure (and lots of people on here have spent many times more than me), but I am just a bit confused and I'm sure I can't be the only one of those that have followed along. This has turned from "I need to fix my car as it is smoking, could be a head gasket issue and wife is mad I'm spending so much on car" to "tune up" to "build thread, buying lots of parts!" over the course of a month or so.

Anyway, best of luck with everything. I see you have bought parts at SEM--they are good guys, bought stuff there too including my K04 & DP. I never had them do any work of course, but looks like they are quite competent a shop. If they are also doing the work on your car I think you're in good hands there. (I did also think you were not in the GTA but those are clearly pics of SEM in North York...) I can tell you that, presuming the car will be running fine, you will certainly _love_ the K04 once you get it on there. With that and the tune, the engine performance is like night/day over stock. The VL engine doesn't make quite the peak #s as the non-VL for various reasons, but it makes some ton of torque down low--very early in the rev range with a lot of "area under the curve". That along with all the other stuff you have lined up there should have you quite happy once it's all in/good


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Just going to say, you should look up the term "sunk cost fallacy" before being so sure of continuing down the same path using this reasoning. As I said before you're free to do what you want with your own car but just saying it's actually quite beneficial to understand the sunken cost fallacy, not just for this but for many other things.
> 
> 
> I've had a K04 on my one car for about half it's life now (so nearly 5 years with it on and 50k+ kms). Never put a catch can on the car--never wanted to and never will. _Many others_ have run upgraded stages and turbos, without ever doing any catch can just the same. I've even been lucky enough _knocks on wood_ that my original PCV has never given me a problem despite being a common-failing part. I'm not sure how/why you're concluding that one "should" run a catch can at certain stages, but it is 100% *not* necessary IME; but again you're free to "take away" and mod/equip your car as you see fit as said.
> ...


It's 0451am here in Halifax NS. I've been tossing and turning in bed with lots on my mind. I can empathize with your point of view. As you have pointed out, my view is biased for many reasons.

As an Audi Club N.A. - E.C. member, I get a decent discount on parts from our sponsors and partners. I changed to a new thread because I didn't want to confuse people re the current problems and the parts bin.

As it stands, I need a new alternator and battery, a few new sensor etc. The cause of the smoke is unknown yet. If the car needs a rebuild then there's nothing I can do but run it back better than before. I have the mentality that if the vehicle will be in the shop, I should get as much done as possible while it's there. From a cost perspective, I would end up spending more money on labor costs if I installed the parts individually vs getting things swapped out while the car is already in the shop being worked on.

I'm optimistic, but these upgrades will only improve the performance metrics of my car for the better once it's back on the road, henceforth the spring tune up thread.

I will post the cause of the smoke and the damage in the other thread, I really don't want to mix the two together.

As per my wife being mad at me for spending time & large sums of money on the car......that hasn't changed nor do I think it ever will. I basically said it's better to get it all done in one shot than not, due to saving money on the labor, and future trips to the shop. She agreed and gave me the green light.

If my wife didn't acknowledge my reasoning, there's absolutely no way any parts would be purchased and any work would ever get done.

Lastly, I promised her that this would really be it. Over the last three years I've had the motor rebuilt, various performance upgrades were done. 
Now, all I am doing is addressing the "clunk" in mount play, swapping out the tired OEM turbo for the K04, replacing the heavy and old catback exhaust system for a newer, lighter and less restrictive unit. I don't really foresee myself doing any more work on the car aside from getting it back on the road in great shape.

I completely understand that everyone has their own philosophy and inherited biases when it comes to the point of modification, what's acceptable for me may be ridiculous for another. But as long as individuals understand that tuning is a personal choice, and not an obligation then we should be ok.

SEM will not be doing the work on my car this time around as I am not living in that province anymore.

I'll be make some videos of the shop doing the work.

P.s I fell asleep while writing this in the morning and finished the post 6 hours later, hopefully it's not too long of a reply.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

delmar.atlas said:


> The cause of the smoke is unknown yet. If the car needs a rebuild then there's nothing I can do but run it back better than before. I have the mentality that if the vehicle will be in the shop, I should get as much done as possible while it's there.


As a minimum, I would inspect / clean / replace your turbo oil return line before you bolt on your new K04.

Cut from Oil Consumption - Blocked Turbo Return Line.

“_If the oil return line from the turbocharger is blocked it raises the oil pressure in the turbo charger which then escapes past the oil seals at either end. The oil then enters the intake tract where it is sucked into the combustion chamber or it is blown out the turbine side into the exhaust_”.

This 'might' account for the smoke, and if it turns out to be the cause you will destroy your new turbo in short order if not addressed.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> As a minimum, I would inspect / clean / replace your turbo oil return line before you bolt on your new K04.
> 
> Cut from Oil Consumption - Blocked Turbo Return Line.
> 
> ...


You can absolutely bet on me requesting the lines be looked at and cleaned before replacing the turbo. I'm wondering whether I should swap out the spark plugs and coils......at this point I'm just anxiously awaiting the final parts to come in and have the car checked, but in the meantime I have this compulsive want to buy more "necessary" things. 

Anyway, we will see what the techs have to say.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

delmar.atlas said:


> snip ->but in the meantime I have this compulsive want to buy more "necessary" things.


In the guitar world this is known as having a bad case of 'GAS'.
(gear acquisition syndrome) There's always another guitar you absolutely need


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

FNChaos said:


> In the guitar world this is known as having a bad case of 'GAS'.
> (gear acquisition syndrome) There's always another guitar you absolutely need


It's safe to assume that I clearly have GAS problems.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update.

The shop will not let me video record anything, therefore I won't be able to share any before, during and after pictures. 

I apologies in advance but will have all the parts laid out so you have an idea of what's going in and why.

Best


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Check the turbo's compressor wheel for any sign of damage. If there is a damage you need to replace the intercooler. 

Make sure to prine the turbo before starting the engine. Unplug the injectors, spark plug and ignition coils then use the starter to turn the engine to buildup oil pressure.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Stop computing the money you wasted to make the silly catch can obsession works. Unless you can install a pressure relief valve that won't freeze it's better to ditch the catch can. Carbon buildup is UNBURNED FUEL not oil.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Hello friends,

The car get's picked up on Wednesday, put on a flat bed and towed to Kraftwerks here in Halifax NS.

The shop has a decent reputation, and I'm looking forward, like many others to get some closure. I will install the PCV-oil/air separator/Africa plate on this Sunday. By doing this I will be temporarily omitting the catch can setup.

The HPA K04 transverse hybrid turbo has yet to be delivered. I've been told that they are still waiting on some of the parts to put the turbos together and ship out.

Because the Racingline can is using the motor mount as a mounting position it will need to be removed anyways in order to replace the motor mount. By pre-emptively removing/replacing these items I can save the shop some time and myself some money.

Once the K04 turbo is in, I will affix the AN fitting flange to the turbo in order to reinstall the Racingline catch can.

My Mototec cat back exhaust system will be delivered by end of month along with my new rear taillight. Stand by for pictures.

My biggest concerns are all of the error codes and the sensors that need replacing. 

The turbo will be inspected and the intercooler will most likely be replaced with an aluminum version due to the possibility of the OEM intercooler being fouled, in the meantime I imagine that the intercooler could use a good interior wash and rinse. I'm on standby to standby by. 

I believe the car is suffering from an electrical gremlin and that once that is solved all other problems will be fixed.

Fingers crossed, I'll inform everyone of the results later on this week. 

Thank you all who have tuned into my thread and have weathered the storm with me during these hard few months.

One of the goals of this "spring tune up 2022" thread was to demonstrate the improvement of the new mounts and inserts. However it's turned into somewhat of a build thread. 

The end goal is near and I hope my experiences can serve the community in a positive way.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

atlasdelmar on TikTok


#ea888 #audi #pcv #catchcanremoval




www.tiktok.com











Replaced #PCV on a #ea888 #audi #tfsi vacuum present with whistle when... | TikTok


TikTok video from atlasdelmar (@atlasdelmar): "Replaced #PCV on a #ea888 #audi #tfsi vacuum present with whistle when dipstick removed, indicating a good PCV. If you remove the dipstick and the car doesn't stumble then you have a vacuum leak and a bad PCV system. A little white smoke on a cold...




www.tiktok.com


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update,

The turbo has yet to arrive, the cat back is delayed until EOM, the rear tail lights will be tinted smoke black while the car is parked. Some odd bits will be put on the car while it's being worked on.

A new ECM was purchased to replace the water damaged unit from my car. The gromit that was supposed to be there to deal with the condensation was missing, ergo water ingress causing major issues.

Cheers.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update,

The ECM should be delivered next week. The HPA K04 transverse Turbo has been shipped out and will be available for pickup next week.

Nothing has been done to the car at the shop since the I've been busy at work, and the shop has probably been busy with other customers so they haven't gotten back to me with some pricing. It's all very frustrating at times, but what am I to do?

Once the turbo is in hand I will take some in depth pictures to show the community what makes this unit different from all others and why I ultimately chose HPA's technology and approach compared to other vendors.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update,

Tune: Stage2 to Stage3 Upgrade w/Flapper Delete

K04 Hybrid Turbo Conversion for 2.0L TSI - with integrated diverter valve for Transverse EA888.2 motor.

This turbo is a redesigned/upgraded version of the high out put K04 that came on the RS3 amongst other high performance Audi models.

The impeller is made from a solid billet aluminum block. The turbo has been designed to give the best drivability possible with loads of power through ought the power curve not just peak output. The flapper delete will allow me to run the stock I/M with the blanks giving me the best of low end torque and high rpm flow. 

Pictures to come.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Good to hear it's coming along!

Also you mean S3 (which we never got in Can/US). RS3 is completely different engine shared with the TT-RS (5cyl EA855 which has a variant of BW B03 turbo, stock).

Mk2 TT-S and Mk6 Golf .:R also use a K04 from factory. The HPA version has a slightly different compressor wheel/blade design than the standard BW K04 and yes it's a billet wheel and quite nice.

I noticed you went to a standard PCV, which is good, but just a quick question...did your _original_ PCV have the white top? Just checking because VL engines could have either, depending on year. You cannot switch to the white top (from the older black top) unless you also have the software update for it. Otherwise you may risk blowing out your RMS.

As for the flapper delete "giving the best of low-end torque and high RPM flow" it actually does only one of those things. One of the main reasons the "flapper" exists in the first place is to increase low-end output...that and facilitating different DI operating modes. When you delete the flaps or use an aftermarket manifold without them, you are mainly optimising it for high-RPM power and _foregoing_ the ability to enhance low-end output. If the case were that removing the flaps somehow helped _both_ low-end output and high RPM performance, there would be no purpose of having them to begin with lol. Yet nearly every modern engine has some sort of variable intake from the factory.

For more information on how/why variable resonance/length intakes are used, see:


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable-length_intake_manifold


and also





You will lose low-end from deleting the flaps though how much and how noticeable that might be, is another story. (We can note there's a version of the EA888 VL with a non-variable metal intake from the factory, so it's definitely not _required_.) Of course when you remove them on engines that have it, you do need to have a tune that deletes the functions and the use of DI modes that require them.

One side benefit of deleting the flaps is that you can't have the system fail (which is somewhat common on these engines).


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Hello, 

It's a Friday and I'm not a drooling zombie, falling over, sleep deprived like I normally am, therefore this post should be grammatically correct, and I hope, more comprehendible. 




TT'sRevenge said:


> 486755[/ATTACH]
> 
> 
> [QUOTE="TT'sRevenge, I noticed you went to a standard PCV, which is good, but just a quick question...did your _original_ PCV have the white top? Just checking because VL engines could have either, depending on year. You cannot switch to the white top (from the older black top) unless you also have the software update for it. Otherwise you may risk blowing out your RMS.


Unknown. I used my engine info only to confirm fitment & not whether its necessary to use the older version PCV system, that being said, this unit is supposedly the high efficiency oil separator model per ECS tuning. I'm using the ECS tuning AN adapters to use my Racingline catch can alongside the OEM PCV plate. I'll give my feedback after having it on for some time.

[QUOTE="TT'sRevenge, As for the flapper delete "giving the best of low-end torque and high RPM flow" it actually does only one of those things. One of the main reasons the "flapper" exists in the first place is to increase low-end output...that and facilitating different DI operating modes. When you delete the flaps or use an aftermarket manifold without them, you are mainly optimising it for high-RPM power and _foregoing_ the ability to enhance low-end output. If the case were that removing the flaps somehow helped _both_ low-end output and high RPM performance, there would be no purpose of having them to begin with lol. Yet nearly every modern engine has some sort of variable intake from the factory. You will lose low-end from deleting the flaps though how much and how noticeable that might be, is another story. (We can note there's a version of the EA888 VL with a non-variable metal intake from the factory, so it's definitely not _required_.) Of course when you remove them on engines that have it, you do need to have a tune that deletes the functions and the use of DI modes that require them. [/QUOTE] 

Correct again, but not exactly what I was referring to. I based my comment of having the best of both worlds as I was mentally comparing the OEM intake manifold running blanks to an off the shelf aftermarket metal manifold like the ECS tuning or EI manifold. The majority of the aftermarket manifolds have a larger plenum and or longer/shorter runners, thus a loss of torque is more noticeable in the lower rpms but a noticeable gain is seen up top. The flaps aid in cold starts and are constantly opening and partially closing as the RPMs change to direct airflow over the valves in order to aid in the stoichiometric mixture of gasoline. However, the flaps aren't the only parts in aiding this as the motor also has thin metal plate inserts in the intake manifold ports on the head to aid in directing airflow. I found it redundant to have two parts doing the same thing, but I'm not an engineer, therefore take my shot at redundancy with a grain of salt. You hit the nail on its head when you stated that the flappers are a fail prone item and can cause poor engine running conditions if left broken. I envision the removal of the flaps and their replacement with the blanks will only lose me an unnoticeable amount of torque below 2900 rpm, but gain slightly more HP post 3000 RPM while addressing a fail prone part.

HPA has provided an RFD tune with the stage 3, K04 software upgrade, therefore addressing the cold start issues.

It's a pleasure as always.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Anyone interested in a CTS turbo oil catch can?


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update,

I have the ECM on hand, the tail light as well. The HPA Turbo will be delivered to my pick up location in two days now. UPS has had multiple delays and it went from being delivered on the 19th to now the 25th. The whole ground shipping from one end of the country to the other has been frustrating because of all the delays. I purchased the Turbo in March and will be receiving it almost two months later. It's not HPA's fault, I witnessed multiple reports on the news regarding a backlog in the supply chain at the Vancouver transportation hub. Containers waiting months before being offloaded. I believe that all the supply chain problems pre pandemic have only gotten worst post it. The Mototec cat back exhaust will be delivered mid June. 

Hopefully I can get the car on the road soon. Pictures of the turbo to follow.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

INTRO NEW #HPA #K04 #HYBRIDTURBO #audi #audiclub #ea888

#HPA K04 HYBRID TURBO arrives in Halifax NS






A proper writeup will be posted at thevlog.ca 

Best.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

The turbo looks slightly different than the pictures on the net, however this turbo looks much bigger than I had imagined. Everything about it looks thicker than the IHI, no wonder it's capable of increasing power by almost 130-160 HP/TQ.￼


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Interesting that it's called a 'KO4' hybrid - what's the quoted output on this? Usual EA113 Stage 2+ figures?

Assuming they've developed this using a KO4 CHRA / Core but actually used the KO3 housing? 
Or maybe developed a custom casting for the cold side?

Because KO4 turbos do not have the diverter valve directly onto the turbo - so it's definitely not the usual KO4 seen from an EA113


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> Interesting that it's called a 'KO4' hybrid - what's the quoted output on this? Usual EA113 Stage 2+ figures?
> 
> Assuming they've developed this using a KO4 CHRA / Core but actually used the KO3 housing?
> Or maybe developed a custom casting for the cold side?
> ...


Good morning,

Your almost on the money. 

The CHRA that was used as the base was the K04 from the S3/Golf R. Then they modified the compressor wheel from solid billet aluminum to have a more aggressive profile.

A custom compressor housing was then made to house the bigger compressor wheel while keeping the diverter valve in the same place as the K03 or IHI. (Instead of milling the old K04 compressor housing like IE, CTS, etc).

The hot side was also modified to be a bigger hot section (no serial numbers on the exhaust runners) while using a more aggressive profile turbine wheel.) 

It's still a K04 CHRA, just that both the hot side and cold side have been upgraded. HPA claims that approximately 350 HP & TQ can be made with the right type of fuel and accessories, but I've read a lot of posts from VW Golf people who are running 11/12 second quarter miles on this exact same turbo consistently, which is akin to making closer to 400HP.

Then again I take everything with a grain of salt. Not every car or track or driver is the same. A 150lb man can run the 1/4 in 11 seconds in his Golf R on a humid but not overly hot day, while a 250lb man would be running 12's in the exact same setup. 

I'm just glad I have my new turbo in hand.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

delmar.atlas said:


> Good morning,
> 
> Your almost on the money.
> 
> ...


The tuning stage is also different, instead of stage 2+ it's actually referenced as stage 3 now for the EA888 TSI/FSI motors. Just an interesting Easter egg fact.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

delmar.atlas said:


> The tuning stage is also different, instead of stage 2+ it's actually referenced as stage 3 now for the EA888 TSI/FSI motors. Just an interesting Easter egg fact.


If you read the first sentence again, I was asking if the power output rating HPA give to the turbo, was comparable to that. I know that if you swap the turbo it becomes 'stage 3'
That's if you like to quote in 'stages' it can get annoying more than anything.




delmar.atlas said:


> Good morning,
> 
> Your almost on the money.
> The CHRA that was used as the base was the K04 from the S3/Golf R. Then they modified the compressor wheel from solid billet aluminum to have a more aggressive profile.
> ...


Interesting to see how they chose to make it - you can see why they'd choose to keep the DV where it is, so you do not require any other additional hardware and it is truly bolt on
But on that basis - both wheels & housing machining, making it a proper hybrid of a KO4, I would expect to see easily 400 crank figure - unless you're quoting wheel? Which 350 is decent
Only a few poor turbo manufactures make KO4 hybrids that manage to under perform the 400bhp figure - even brand new stock KO4's from Borg have been able to push past the magic 400 with WMI - not mapped, just for cooling.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> If you read the first sentence again, I was asking if the power output rating HPA give to the turbo, was comparable to that. I know that if you swap the turbo it becomes 'stage 3'
> That's if you like to quote in 'stages' it can get annoying more than anything.
> 
> 
> ...



Hi,

I'm not sure if the power rating would be comparable to a TTS stage 2+. The TTS, although it has a K04 still uses a different motor than the TT. Therefore, the power curve will be different, but because the max output is relatively governed by the output of the turbos, the max HP/TQ could still be similar.

Here's a picture of the claimed HP figures, I'm unsure if those numbers are at the wheels, hubs, crank etc.









I've asked for more information from HPA in regards to the turbo in the hopes of doing a proper unboxing video with all the specs, but have yet to hear back from them.

As much as I would love to take the car to the dyno immediately, I've decided to break the turbo in gradually and let the motor and transmission learn how to deal with the new power output before doing any track or dyno events.

I still have a few things that need to be done to the car before I feel comfortable taking it to the dyno, therefore we'll really see what this turbo can do in a few months to a years time.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> Interesting that it's called a 'KO4' hybrid - what's the quoted output on this? Usual EA113 Stage 2+ figures?
> 
> Assuming they've developed this using a KO4 CHRA / Core but actually used the KO3 housing?
> Or maybe developed a custom casting for the cold side?


They call it a "hybrid" but it's not really a hybrid IMO. It's just a K04 with a custom, billet compressor wheel. The power numbers they publish are basically the same as everyone else's K04 numbers. I dunno maybe that's what some people consider a hybrid... In any event, it's definitely "Stage 2.5 / Stage 2+ / Stage K04" performance, from everything I know. It's definitely a solid product and really nice compressor wheel but you're not getting Frankenturbo or TTE420 performance with it.

On a EA888 VL (like OP has) the _peak_ numbers are slightly worse than either the non-VL or the EA113 engines from everything I've seen (going by published numbers from the main US tuner companies--APR, IE, Uni, HPA). However the "under the curve" area, esp. the torque curve is pretty great--better than the other two. The EA113s seem like they have better upper RPM performance while the EA888s have fatter torque lower down, particularly the VL engine.



Barr_end said:


> Because KO4 turbos do not have the diverter valve directly onto the turbo - so it's definitely not the usual KO4 seen from an EA113


I'm not 100% sure but I thought they were using a BW K04 manifold/housing with the custom cold side as you mention. APR does the same with theirs--they modify the housing with a billet machined piece to keep the DV on the turbo instead of having the stock-design where it's remote.

Both APR and HPA tout this as a feature (obviously since it's what they are using) whereas Uni and others cite the remote DV location as better--first of all much more easily accessible; secondly, less heat might mean less chance of failure. Obviously APR and HPA have both gone to some length to "keep it factory" with that location, but I think it's down to personal preference. I honestly think the APR idea of putting it there (they did it first I believe) mainly came down to the days before they got more strict with TD1s. That way if you upgraded the turbo it wouldn't be obvious if the car was still under warranty, that you'd swapped the turbo. Back then a lot of the thinking with APR stuff was that you could easily set it back to stock/have it look stock (e.g. the program switching via the cruise control lever) whenever you took it in for maintenace/service. These days it don't matter what it looks like or what tune you set, you can set a TD1 regardless, so not as important anymore.

Anyway personally I prefer the remote location (which is stock on K04-from-factory cars)--that helped me easily solve the DV problem I had on my TT, by taking all of 10 mins to swap the DV+ from my A3, and finding the problem gone with the DV+ (which led to me buying a second one). It would have been a real PITA to get the DV in & out to swap if I had the turbo-mounted DV on either car.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Oops posted again instead of edit.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I took the opportunity to swap out the broken taillight for a previously loved one. The fitment is there but it's not 100% perfect as the bumper is slightly indented where it made the most contact with the post. 

I can see the CM gaps, but I doubt anyone will point it out unless they're looking for imperfections.

It's part of the spring tune up, because it took me almost a year to fix it.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

My next modification will be a...….badge removal. I'm going to remove all of the badges in order to make the car look cleaner, & stealthy. I'm also going to replace the front grill with a quattro grill, without the rings.

Any thoughts?


*Update, I mentioned to my wife that I was going to the autobody shop to get some chips touched up and the badges professionally removed and that didn't go as well as I had hoped. 

Therefore the badges are staying on, my wife is not happy with the quote "useless-extra nonsense I have planed for the car" end quote.


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## MarkTheShark (9 mo ago)

Yes. Stop reading my mind and then copying me lol. For real though I'm all about that look.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

MarkTheShark said:


> Yes. Stop reading my mind and then copying me lol. For real though I'm all about that look.


I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

A quick video update.

VIDEO


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## MarkTheShark (9 mo ago)

Well at least you're mobile again. I think we all just need to accept that the TT is a spoiled princess and rejects any attempt to improve her.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Update,

The immobilizer delete has been reprogrammed using the new ECM vin, the car was reset the OEM settings. The HPA One Port needed to be reset in order to communicate with the new ECM. So much back and forth between tuner shops and software. I feel grateful.🥹

There have been many new developments in the past few months so I'll summarize them.

All of my problems were due to the ECM calling it quits due to water damage. No blown head gasket. Yay 🎇turbo isn't pulling very hard, could be speed withdrawal. 🤔

The new MOTOTECA catback exhaust system was cancelled due to the wrong exhaust system being in the box.🤬 A refund was issued.😮‍💨 

I chose to stay with the OEM tube and fin intercooler after speaking with a race team mechanic. It's better to run a tube and fin intercooler with WMI than a bar and plate intercooler for my setup and overall purpose. 

The OEM exhaust system will stay on but with some small changes. More on that later. 

A new grill has arrived, decided not to install a spoiler and have decided to take the rest of the money I was going to spend on the Audi and buy some Hugo Boss clothes and shoes. The Benz needs new rims so I'll be focusing alot of my attention that way for a while.

I'll come back and post info on the K04, the performance specs and track times.

Stay blessed


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TikTok - Make Your Day


TikTok - trends start here. On a device or on the web, viewers can watch and discover millions of personalized short videos. Download the app to get started.




vm.tiktok.com














The Del Mar family on Instagram: "#facelift Audi TT< STAGE 3 software hardware & upgrade #audiquattro #audigramm #audiclub #audireality #auditt #audisport #powertotheground #tuning #performance #luxury #upgrade #support @hpamotorsports @atlas_del_mar @audiclubeasterncanada @audizine @audittonly @audizine @audiclubna @audiclubwc HPA HYBRID K04 Turbo HPA K04 software tune HPA RFD tune HPA 3' Downpipe with high-flow catalytic converter OEM resonator OEM Muffler 91 Octane fuel EA888.2 motor 8J Audi TT Quattro TFSI Get the best prices on HPA performance products & a free T-shirt when using this link https://www.hpamotorsports.com/discount/atlas"


The Del Mar family shared a post on Instagram: "#facelift Audi TT< STAGE 3 software hardware & upgrade #audiquattro #audigramm #audiclub #audireality #auditt #audisport #powertotheground #tuning #performance #luxury #upgrade #support @hpamotorsports @atlas_del_mar @audiclubeasterncanada...




www.instagram.com


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Now that the grill is on, I'll work on fixing the crack.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

New catch can setup, using the ECS tuning AN fitting adapter for their high flow PCV air/oil separator. 

#racingline #catchcan


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Snow Performance Water methanol setup. Stage 1 running a #1 nozzle at the throttle body. The windshield washer reservoir was used in lieu of the provided snow performance tank.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Skip to the next post please.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Oooh w/m eh? NICE! That's really the one final thing I've always wanted to add to the A3; because I ended up buying the TT, I never did it though given all the $$$ spent there. And now I have two cars to add w/m to  Maybe in another year or so...

How you liking the K04 so far--night and day right? 😁 What brakes you have on the front?

Also what colour is your car? I always thought it was black but it doesn't look black in the light? Phantom doesn't look that grey in the light, so it can't be that colour? Looking real nice so far though!


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oooh w/m eh? NICE! That's really the one final thing I've always wanted to add to the A3; because I ended up buying the TT, I never did it though given all the $$$ spent there. And now I have two cars to add w/m to  Maybe in another year or so...
> 
> How you liking the K04 so far--night and day right? 😁 What brakes you have on the front?
> 
> Also what colour is your car? I always thought it was black but it doesn't look black in the light? Phantom doesn't look that grey in the light, so it can't be that colour? Looking real nice so far though!


@TT'sRevenge Thanks for the interest. I'm currently breaking the turbo in, but night and day doesn't really do it justice. 0-100km/h is much quicker, off throttle on throttle acceleration is less "impacting" then the IHI while cruising, meaning I don't feel like I'm going faster, but the speedo says my butt is just numb. The car is very fast even when below 10psi, I couldn't understand why though. I think it's because it's flowing more air at the same RPM than the IHI did and I only ever feel that umfff when I pass 11 PSI all the way to 22psi. 

The car was fast on the two leg stretches while on the highway. The water methanol injection was really well put together, it's liquid cooling with some extra fuel while on boost. Just when I really need it. Safety protocols.

Here's a quick video.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oooh w/m eh? NICE! That's really the one final thing I've always wanted to add to the A3; because I ended up buying the TT, I never did it though given all the $$$ spent there. And now I have two cars to add w/m to  Maybe in another year or so...
> 
> How you liking the K04 so far--night and day right? 😁 What brakes you have on the front?
> 
> Also what colour is your car? I always thought it was black but it doesn't look black in the light? Phantom doesn't look that grey in the light, so it can't be that colour? Looking real nice so far though!


I'm using ESC tuning two piece cross drilled / vented rotors with a four piston prodigy werks aluminum caliper up front and Brembo rotors and pads in the rear.

The car is Oolong grey. It's an interesting color to say the least.

Some minor subtle aero additions to the car and that's it. As far as power is concerned, I won't be doing anything else to the car. I have an HPA stage 2 TCU software update pending. Hopefully I can have that done this fall in time for the very last autocross events.

Here's a link to the rotors I'm using. They are OEM size but weigh only half the lbs.









Audi Club Eastern Canada on Instagram: "Two piece ECS semi floating rotor unboxing for an Audi club member. What's part of your spring tune up?"


Audi Club Eastern Canada shared a post on Instagram: "Two piece ECS semi floating rotor unboxing for an Audi club member. What's part of your spring tune up?". Follow their account to see 100 posts.




www.instagram.com


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

TikTok - Make Your Day


TikTok - trends start here. On a device or on the web, viewers can watch and discover millions of personalized short videos. Download the app to get started.




vm.tiktok.com





The original stage 3 tune that was sent to me had to be paired to the new ECM, in the process of having the tune run with a new immobilization delete patch the engineer forgot to add the intake manifold runner flap delete patch. Long story short, after all was said and done, and all was bolted onto the car, it started but ran a bit rough on the cold start. This was yesterday afternoon. British Columbia where HPA Motorsports is located is operating around 3-4 hours behind the East coast, so my 2pm was their 10am. By the time I advised Alan of the situation and drove the the car home, I had received the email with the completed stage 3 tune with everything I needed.

However, dad life waits for no man and I was finally able to upload the file this afternoon.

My reaction to the bangs & pops after coming off 21psi with the methanol spraying was...... scary. I thought my car had problems. It was loud and not very long either. It was just pop pop POP, pop POP.
I parked and left the car running to see if something had blown up in my engine bay. But it just sounded smooth. 

I think it will be a while before I get used to it.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

delmar.atlas said:


> 0-100km/h is much quicker, off throttle on throttle acceleration is less "impacting" then the IHI while cruising, meaning I don't feel like I'm going faster, but the speedo says my butt is just numb. The car is very fast even when below 10psi, I couldn't understand why though. I think it's because it's flowing more air at the same RPM than the IHI did and I only ever feel that umfff when I pass 11 PSI all the way to 22psi.


There is a logical reason why Super cars are either RWD or Rear wheel bias AWD. 

Because the stupid human brain cannot really detect acceleration. Backward tilt of the head is detected as acceleration.
Forward tilt of the head is deceleration. 
The brain don't care how fast the car accelerate or how many horsepower it has. The harder the head tilt backward the faster. Acceleration can easily be simulated using some visual and tilting seat. That's how motion flight simulator works. Just imagine how fast a commercial jet is. Once it reach the cruising altitude it is still accelerating to cruising speed but can you feel it moving?

Hotrod & Muscle cars with overhead valve engines are the best example of cars that accelerate very slow but feel very fast. Kickdown shift will slam you back to the seat and hold you there whi


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Wolvez said:


> There is a logical reason why Super cars are either RWD or Rear wheel bias AWD.
> 
> Because the stupid human brain cannot really detect acceleration. Backward tilt of the head is detected as acceleration.
> Forward tilt of the head is deceleration.
> ...


Thanks for your input. I believe that the power delivery is less spiked than the stage 2 tune on the IHI. This could be because the power band is more linear and therefore less spiky or it's probably because my TCU hasn't been upgraded to the stage 2 tune therefore not allowing me to use the full potential of the new torque curve. I'm not sure but I know that the car is fast.

Once the car passes 13psi it just rockets to 22psi and I find myself going 50-60km faster in a matter of seconds. Like my previous post, I won't be racing until I have the stage 2 TCU software update.

The car has some pending suspension and body bracing to be done. If I don't get the chance to race this year then I'll have the car setup for next year.

Thanks for the interest, stay tuned for more.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Drilling holes into my rear S-line diffuser to make it "functional". I'm working on finding the right type of aero for the bottom of the car, I've reached out to ECS tuning and am awaiting for a reply regarding the potential fitment issues the kit I have chosen may have. I'll add pictures to this thread once I'm done with the drilling.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

I've made some comments about Aero in some other threads, and I wanted to share some of the science behind my comments and the basis for my current undercarriage Aero obsession.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Here's another video with a bit more details regarding a flat/flatter undercarriage vs a stock, completely open undercarriage.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

delmar.atlas said:


> Drilling holes into my rear S-line diffuser to make it "functional". I'm working on finding the right type of aero for the bottom of the car, I've reached out to ECS tuning and am awaiting for a reply regarding the potential fitment issues the kit I have chosen may have. I'll add pictures to this thread once I'm done with the drilling.



Why drill holes into the S-line rear diffuser? 






By creating an area that allows for trapped air to evacuate I am increasing the efficiency of the stock diffuser. The results may not be as obvious as the removal of the diffuser, but it's scientifically supposed to be better.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

It's confirmed, my water methanol injection system is not running properly. It's currently siphoning WM at vacuum (which is 70% of all the time). The system was setup using the OE fuse box, therefore the corresponding fuses were removed from the system so the pump wouldn't be spraying (this is because we believe that the windshield washer reservoir may not be the best tank to use at the moment due to its depth and design. 

Here's a video confirming my suspicions.









atlasdelmar on TikTok


Water methanol injection problems. #becausemorepower




vm.tiktok.com


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

delmar.atlas said:


> It's confirmed, my water methanol injection system is not running properly. It's currently siphoning WM at vacuum (which is 70% of all the time). The system was setup using the OE fuse box, therefore the corresponding fuses were removed from the system so the pump wouldn't be spraying (this is because we believe that the windshield washer reservoir may not be the best tank to use at the moment due to its depth and design.
> 
> Here's a video confirming my suspicions.
> 
> ...


Have you installed an inline solenoid? Doesn't appear so from what I've seen in the photos before, but not all will load
Tank shape/size and location will make no difference to the issue you're experiencing
If we are talking locations of anything, in all honesty placement of the pump would be the biggest query


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> Have you installed an inline solenoid? Doesn't appear so from what I've seen in the photos before, but not all will load
> Tank shape/size and location will make no difference to the issue you're experiencing
> If we are talking locations of anything, in all honesty placement of the pump would be the biggest query


I've made contact with a well known dyno tuner & we've been diagnosing the problem. The corresponding inline solenoid was purchased last week and the extra AN fittings and stainless steel braided lines have also been ordered with the tuner. The pump is located approximately in the same height as the turbo, just over the DSG filter, but he believes that the pump can be mounted in a better location per his previous work on some MK1 TTRS's he's worked on.

The tuner thinks that the relocation of the pump to the lowest point of front bumper can potentially aid in making big power and keeping the windshield washer reservoir as the tank. He's right, but changing the location of the pump would require some rewiring. It's not the end of the world but its a headache doing something twice.

If I wanted to keep the pump in the same location I would have to run a thank that sits in a higher level than the corresponding pump. The tuner has offered to build a custom WM tank in case I want to keep it all the same in the engine bay. It's a good idea that's been done in the past, the only problem is that the Racingline intake occupies alot of real estate in the engine bay.

I don't want to mount the tank in the trunk, but that could be a solution also worth exploring.

The lesson learned is that the mechanical check valve is not enough and a secondary inline check valve is needed.

I will keep all posted.


P.s I've got some decent Aero upgrades to share once it's ready to be put on the car. A new fully enclosed splitter with undercarriage skid plate, a new spoiler, and a new rear diffuser concept. I recognize that in order to make the rear diffuser concept look good it will take a lot of customization.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

To those who have an interest in my setup and overall challenges. As you know the WM has been siphoning into the IM, the good thing about running such a small nozzle is that it hasn't caused any flooding of the motor. An inline solenoid from Snow Performance was purchased and very recently delivered. Snow Performance is at the moment not selling any parts to the general public but instead forcing customers to go through the dealer network. This wasn't too much of a problem as I purchased all of my snow performance kit from their Canadian dealer Eurosport tuning in Ontario. 

The new solenoid valve along with the AN fittings will be used alongside the current setup and on the current plate. The 2 quart reservoir supplied by snow performance will be placed just aft of the radiator, alongside the IM & the RL CAI. A custom bracket is being fabricated and the lines run to keep the Tank above and infront of the pump to aid in supplying the pump with WM at all times.

The windshield washer reservoir is a good tank option, but isn't the right setup for me and my goals.

Autocross and the quarter mile don't require that much WM but the odd track events will require the tank need to be able to deal with the sloshing around of fluids. Having the plastic tank inside the engine bay allows for easy refills, allows for easy access to the boost switch, and is protected from the elements. 

It'll be interesting trying to sell my setup as OE+.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

A few pictures of the installed spoiler.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

The car will go to the shop next week for the new tank update, the solenoid install and the corresponding light mountings. Pictures to follow afterwards. 

P.S the dyno tuning has been put on hold until I can update the DSG tune to stage 2, along with the new cat back install.

No point in tuning for power if the car isn't completed power parts wise.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Meh.......I want more CF parts now. 😮‍💨









Audi Club Eastern Canada on Instagram


Audi Club Eastern Canada shared a post on Instagram. Follow their account to see 86 posts.




www.instagram.com


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Just picked up the car from the shop. 

This is what happened.


Instead of fabricating a new bracket to hold the new tank like we had talked about, the tuner decided to relocate the pump to the lowest point of the front engine bay while retaining support and functional use of the current windshield washer reservoir.
He basically decided to run a new line from the WWR around the wheel well liner and mounted the pump and bracket to the aluminum subframe. Then installed the new solenoid after the pump and before the check valve. A solution to keep the setup as low key as possible while building upon the previous workmanship.

A few more things to be added to the Tribute Trophy before EOY, I will keep all posted.


























































atlasdelmar on TikTok


New stealthy water methanol injection system setup. Keeping it as OEM+ as possible. #audi




vm.tiktok.com


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Interesting placement - but he's nailed that 👌
Lower than the tank and looks like he's mounted that very well - neat and sturdy
With that solenoid finally in, all your purging issues should be a thing of the past


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> Interesting placement - but he's nailed that 👌
> Lower than the tank and looks like he's mounted that very well - neat and sturdy
> With that solenoid finally in, all your purging issues should be a thing of the past


So far the siphoning issue has stopped. He's done a few setups on some TTRS'S and he basically followed the same methodology for my car. We chatted a bit after I picked up the car, and I feel comfortable with that solution.

The car doesn't have a TCU software update, so a stage 2 HPA DSG tune is on route and the obvious next major hurdle to climb.

Once installed then I can look at dyno tuning to dail in the water methanol system. I'll keep everyone updated but I believe that this is the tail end of the 2022 tune up.


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)




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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

EA888 Racingline Cap vs R8 Cap


I purchased the OEM R8 coolant reservoir expansion tank cap and the oil filler cap. After installation I noticed that the coolant cap was too tall and was ru...




youtube.com


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## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

A stock engine bay vs my OEM+

So far, this is the list of parts & the work that's been done to make my interpretation of OEM+.

Racingline:
*Cold Air Intake with built-in heat shield
*Air oil vapor separation catch can with drainage valve
*Coolant reservoir expansion cap
*Magnetic motor oil drain plug
*Magnetic front differential oil drain plug
*Magnetic rear differential oil drain plug
*Magnetic Haldex oil drain plug

CTS TURBO:
*Motor & Transmission mounts
*Dog bone mount insert
*Intake Manifold/throttle body boost cooler spacer
*Intercooler piping
*Front subframe collars
*Rear subframe collars

HPA Motorsports:
*Hybrid K04 Turbo
*K04 Turbo downpipe & mid pipe with high flow catalytic converter
*Stage 3 ECM
*Stage 2 TCU

ECS Tuning:
*OEM PCV and AN fitting modification
*2-piece OE replacement front brake rotors

Snow Performance:
*Stage 1 Boost Cooler- Stainless steel AN version.

Audi Sport:
*R8 OEM Oil filler cap

P3Cars:
*OBD2 Multi-function air vent gauge

Advanti Racing Storm S1:
*17/9 et45 17lb wheels

NITTO Tire:
*NT555 17/45/255 tires

ProdigyWerks:
*4 piston front brake calipers
*High performance street brake pads
*Stainless steel brake lines
*Titanium wheel lugs

JCSportline:
*Carbon fiber OE replacement high downforce/low drag automatic spoiler
*(Carbon fiber front splitter and side splitters ordered & on route)

K&P Engineering:
*Magnetic stainless steel motor oil filter with aluminum housing 
*(Magnetic stainless steel (DSG) transmission oil filter with aluminum housing on route)

Fluids:
*Motul brake fluid
*Motul Gear fluid
*OE transmission fluid
*Pennzoil 0w30 synthetic oil 

Other:
*Aluminum intake manifold flapper delete inserts
*Aluminum DSG paddle extensions
*Aluminum dog bone with density mount 
*Custom axle back exhaust (ordered & on route) 
*Chrome front grill
*Drilled out rear diffuser

Wishlist:
*Full body wrap
*Bigger rear sway bar 
*Taillight tints
*New black and chrome trimmed grill
*Front mount intercooler
*Front chassis braced splitter
*Two more Advanti Racing Storm S1 sized 16/9 wheels
*Nitto NT1 or Yokohama Advan DOT racing tires, four 17/45/255 tires for Auto Crossing & two extra 16/50/255 tires for drag racing. 
*Structural bracing (beefier anti roll bars etc.)


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