# Injectors cleaning and fuel supply refresh- FINISHED



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

***This topic revolves around fuel supply in the car, dont attempt if not feeling like it**
**Always remove fuse 28 (fuel pump) when working in fuel system to relieve fuel pressure, have fire extinguisher nearby**
**Youve been warned ***

**Dont try to clean injectors DIY like me, follow the below but send them to an injector cleaning specialist, they will clean them properly and you will also get a test report for proper operation & performance**

As of today, lockdown is no more in Athens, so decided to mess with the injectors given that all the previous days I've done f#$%@ all in the TT :lol:

The manifold near #4 was visibly soiled around the injector and also I've had a very small air leak that I haven't been able to pinpoint so it was time for injector removal and cleaning.

Simple job, right?


> "All 8 seals were the same size on my BAM if I remember.
> it's an easy job, just clean thoroughly around the area before you remove them from the ports to prevent crud falling in, expect a little fuel leak, have an extinguisher handy etc etc.
> 
> Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to relieve pressure. Disconnect the pinch-style electoral connector from the top of each injector, and unclip the plastic clips holding the wiring in place, finally remove the two retaining bolts for the rail, then the rail should pull up and out of the manifold.
> ...


Got me a kit of all 8 injector seals, plus these little filters that go to the top of each injector. 14 eur all in.









Removal was easy, basically only two allen bolts that hold the fuel rail together, given the above instructions, nothing too bad. Injectors were a bit stuck but I pulled them out and took them inside for cleaning.

The worst #4 one. Note the crud on the engine side.









Old and new injector filter. (looks worse in the pic than it was in reality)









Squeeky clean. 









Used carb cleaner inside top and botton and more when I removed the filters, which were the reason for the mess because they were stuck good, had to use a large woodscrew with a pliers, hold the pliers with my feet and pull hard to remove. Fitment was equally difficult, they wouldn't go in by hand [smiley=bigcry.gif] 

















And then this happened on #3. The bottom plastic at one of the injectors broke, its called pintle or pintel cap [smiley=bomb.gif] 









No local shop had any idea of the 0.000001eur plastic (given also most were open first day after the lockdown), so ended going to a local indy who did this to fix it, he put a semi-butchered plastic thingy which was sitting quite tight TBH








EDIT: This is not a proper fix.

To add more to my enjoyment, I dropped the pin that secures one injector to the rail in the engine bay. After headscratching and spending an hour trying to find it, I "started" the car with reverse gear to make the pin move forward so I can catch it. Success. Cleaned everywhere and everything of course.









Everything fitted with the plan of getting a new injector asap. Autodoc is by far the cheapest place for these, Bosch ones are 41euros each. Audi sells them for 215 each and all local prices to me more than 100eur.
Audi part for BAM *06a906031bc*
Bosch part *0280156063*
These are 269 cc injectors

Only tonight I discovered theres a Bosch spare part for the plastic pintle cap. Bosch part number *1 280 113 716*, getting it tomorrow, so all should be good. The warning of the story is if you plan on changing the injector filters, prepare for some grief.

And another *warning *from my mechanic, if you want to replace the injector inserts (another source for leaks), you need to completely remove the manifold (and get a gasket for refitting). The inserts are loctite-d into place which means the insert will most probably break and you don't want plastic parts falling in your engine :evil:

Audi recommends putting loctite on the inserts when refitting (what sort?).

Sorry for the long post but someone may find this useful.


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## EG-nath (Apr 2, 2020)

anything plastic that has been near fuel for a long time will be brittle, id say you got lucky you only broke one part and the numbers for replacements are useful


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## TTorBust (Mar 8, 2018)

Great write up, thanks. You mentioned the kit with the filters but I've been unable to find the part nr or seller for the filters, could you point me in the right direction please


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

TTorBust said:


> Great write up, thanks. You mentioned the kit with the filters but I've been unable to find the part nr or seller for the filters, could you point me in the right direction please


I went to a specialist injector shop, with the injectors in hand.
I know the rubbers audi part is *035906149A *but he matched them with ID and OD which is *7.52x3.53mm*. The filters were for the specific injector, obviously no Audi part there. You see the new ones were slightly shorter.

I went back at the shop and he tried some injector repair kits which included the pintle but none matched the broken thingy.

And I have to wait for the Bosch pintle part online because noone here bothers to order such a cheap part... :roll:

Moral of the story is take out the injectors and send them for refurbishment for £17 each and don't bother. They are also tested and you get a test report


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Been reading lately of how modern fuel additives (including ethanol which may or may not apply to you) kill old car fuel pipes which were not rated for them and also in our cars fuel hoses are up to 20 years old. Finishing the work above had me inspect this:

Fuel pipes, even in new cars are a consumable item, max recommended life is 10 years.
Discovered the fuel pipe in my engine going to the fuel rail looked like this. [smiley=bigcry.gif]









Audi wants 150 for this part, understandably as it has a few kinks but still too expensive IMO. Its the two hoses next to the fuel rail (fuel rail clips not included). Cost of the DIY repair here is a tenner.








If you decide to buy OEM, check the date on the part you buy.

So lets try to do it with store bought fuel hose by the metre. The hose has to at least be DIN73379 rated (or the better SAE J30 R9 american spec), got 1.5 metre for about 10 from the same shop I bought the injector pintle cap.

*Cohline-2192 *(googled it in UK shops too), a very soft and supple hose, *7.5x13mm *is the correct size, *1 metre *is enough for the job.









*Fuel hose replacement*
Note which pipe goes where, one has blue marks.

*Step 1*: Remove fuel rail including hose pipes and take it to your workbench.
Follow the fuel rail pipes to see where they go. Removing these fuel pipe clips has given many people unnecessary grief, I believe the same clips need removing when replacing the fuel filter, so learn to do it right. They WILL come off, unless some previous guy has massacred them. To remove:
-Push the connector in - this is important (green arrow)
-Push the side locking clip inwards, you will feel it going in just a little (red arrows). Push it by hand, dont mess it with a screwdriver.
-Pull the whole connector out

*theres also a small pipe to the other side of the fuel rail, going to the pressure regulator, remove that as well.









*Step 2*: Remove the hose clamps from the pipe.
You need standard hose clamp tool to remove the clamps near the fuel rail. I have an el cheapo tool but main fuel hose was so severely bubbled up that the hose clamp wouldnt come off. One hose clamp destroyed (no problem).
Dont use the hose clamp tool for the clamps near the clips above. Use a standard pliers, you can grab the clamp sides only on the last millimetre of the pliers, its enough, carefully align the pliers and squeeze, the clamp will come off easily on the second or third try. Move these clamps further back, you will reuse them.

*Step 3*: Remove the connectors from the old hose
Theres is no way the fuel connectors will come off from the old hose without breaking. Use a stanley knife with a fresh blade and cut the old pipe slowly and carefully and try not to kill yourself :roll:
Connectors removed unharmed (anyone have a source for these, Audi doesnt sell them)









*Step 4*: Cut and fit new pipe to L connectors
I measured both original pipes to be 43cm, despite one looking longer than the other. Cut to size with the Stanley knife. Dont destroy the old pipe yet, you need to approximately fit the new pipes in the same manner. I used cloth tape to replicate the connecting medium. Use some silicone spray both on the plastic connector and on the inside of the hose to help it slide into the connector (I didn't have silicone spray, used soapy water instead which made it more difficult). Make sure connector is all the way in the pipe and reuse the pliers-hose clamp method to reuse the hose clamps, the hose took a while to fit by turning it on the connector, the hose clamps fit perfectly snug and easy.

Old and new pipes, rubberbands put in an attempt to recreate kinks, more on that below.









*Step 5*: Connect pipes to fuel rail and fit the whole assembly back into car.
Reuse the front clamps or like me put _new_ standard and properly sized hose clamps and refit the hoses to the fuel rail, tighten the clamps and put back injectors if you have removed them. Lightly rub injector rubber seals with fresh engine oil (from the dipstick) when fitting into fuel rail. Tighten fuel rail into place and replace all electrical connections etc (and the little hose to the fuel regulator)
*Torque settings:*
-Two fuel rail allen bolts - 10 Nm
-Hose clamps - 3.5 Nm
*EDIT 2022*
Dont use worm clamps here as they will leak, reuse the old ones or buy new from Audi, cheap part is N90686701

_EDIT: When fitting back, make sure the fuel hoses go OVER the plastic brake vacuum pipe and not under it, as that will make the plastic pipe touch the hot turbo charge pipe









Put two tiewraps for extra safety and you're done._









*Step 6: TESTING - IMPORTANT.*:
Put back the fuel pump fuse and turn engine switch to ON at least 3 times *WITHOUT *starting the car. Check fuel rail connections, make sure no leaks exist. Now turn engine on (it will take a few tries), go back to engine bay and check again with a light that no leaks exist including at intake manifold. Go for brief test drive, recheck everything on return.

Misc from yesterday - pintle cap
The ghetto injector repair barely held up, at least it didnt drop in the engine when I removed the fuel rail today.









Bosch pintle cap was a perfect tight fit, use an old injector seal below it to help fit it by pressing hard the injector on top like so: Both sides of the pintle cap are the same (theres no top and bottom side)









*Notes*
Audi hoses are bend to specific spots for a reason, this is to clear existing hoses in the area and for the pipes to be sufficiently away from the engine and hot turbo charge pipe. I have found this bend (red lines) is the most important for all of the above.









Also check how the oem hoses go in reference to the angle of installed injectors. Took this photo before removing anything.









Oh, and the small vacuum leak has been fixed 
(ongoing)


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## BadgerTT (Nov 16, 2019)

Great detail in the write up Silkman. Having done my injector seals last weekend those fuel hoses are on my 'to do' list as they look a little perished on the exteriors. Not sure I will self build, but I can fully see the logic of having modern pipe material so may consider it. Glad you got the injector issue resolved.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Great write up, personally I wouldn't change the injector filters. There should be no debris in there that will block it. I changed the fuel line and used some Mocal fuel line which is both nylon covered neoprene and steel reinforced so very resilient and won't degrade like rubber does.
As you say trying to fit the fipe is difficult compared to the original formed items but possible . I reused the plastic sleeve off the original pipes to provide some protection against the alloy boost pipe. This van get very hot if the car is driven hard. Turbo exit temps cam be 200+ degrees.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOCAL-G210-6 ... 1376618696?


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Thanks for the replies.

Quick update: The rubbing issue was my mistake, as I put the fuel hoses under the plastic brake hose and they were pushing it upwards and towards the turbo charge pipe. I think the same vacuum hose is in RHD cars too.

Wrong setup









There is no rubbing, and there's plenty of clearance as I today fitted the hoses correctly *over *the vacuum pipe and also removed the charge pipe to check. Plenty of space. The following two pics are with the charge pipe out of the way.

















As extra security, I just put two loosely fitted tiewraps at this spot so theres no chance of anything moving. Please use black tiewraps, unlike me. :roll: 









Gonna edit the previous post to reflect the above. All in all, a good cheap fix for many years to come, and your TT won't end up like that F40 in Monaco.


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

Thanks for this great info. Fuel injectors were a mysterious part of my engine that I never understood. Now that I have looked at them closely they appear to be leaking, and my fuel hoses are also in deplorable condition. O-rings and new hose on order and I'm calling around town to find somewhere to professionally clean the injectors. After 147k miles they are surely overdue for a cleaning.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

With all the threads on injector seals lately I decided to replace mine. They were manky and one was quite loose. During fitting I noticed the fuel lines were looking a bit cracked. I got the pipe but no jubilee clips so a job for next week. It runs exactly the same as before but they are now done.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

davebowk said:


> With all the threads on injector seals lately I decided to replace mine. They were manky and one was quite loose. During fitting I noticed the fuel lines were looking a bit cracked. I got the pipe but no jubilee clips so a job for next week. It runs exactly the same as before but they are now done.


Warning on many fakes being around lately on ebay and amazon if you decide to get new injectors. Autodoc is probably ok.



tt92103 said:


> Thanks for this great info. Fuel injectors were a mysterious part of my engine that I never understood. Now that I have looked at them closely they appear to be leaking, and my fuel hoses are also in deplorable condition. O-rings and new hose on order and I'm calling around town to find somewhere to professionally clean the injectors. After 147k miles they are surely overdue for a cleaning.


An injector cleaning service definitely includes new o-rings so no need to buy them if you send injectors out. Ask them to also replace pintle caps and they should oblige


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## Amulet banana (Nov 12, 2018)

I did the same with mine, I didn't try to bend the hose though I used tie wraps like you have 










It's a scary thought if your fuel hose goes, as that pump will be pumping a hell of a lot of fuel out in such a short space of time, I need to do this green one to be honest as the hoses are pretty bad.

Did anyone read the Porsche boxer with the Audi 2.7tt engine in it, that went up in flames because of bad fuel hoses iirc.


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## BadgerTT (Nov 16, 2019)

With injector seals replaced and fuel lines that are looking a little perished I looked at OEM replacements but as mentioned they are not a particularly cost effective option for two pipes (approx £150 from my search) hence this is looking like a good option. Given the potential heat issues in that area I think I will also add a thermal shield to the pipes for a bit of extra protection. Found this with should fit the bill in 30mm diameter and not look too out of place:

https://funkmotorsport.com/product/silv ... gIsWvD_BwE


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

When I copied the original pipe length and used cloth tape to make them similar to OEM, they stay quite low, away from turbo charge pipe and go up again to the fuel rail. In an rhd car, you also have the brake reservoir so theres an extra place to tiewrap them, away from turbo heat.

Maybe the rubber bands helped after all...









Ive read a post where you can permanently bend rubber pipe by putting thin copper tube inside (or some thick wire would also do) , form the bends and put in the oven for something like 160C for 10 minutes. Leave to cool and remove the copper tube and presto, permanent bends.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4 ... hoses.html


> Bend it to the shape you want then place in oven at 325 degrees for 10 minutes. Take it out and let it cool slowly.


I might try that just for a fun experiment [smiley=fireman.gif] with the leftover pipe I have, but someone must definitely tell us whether the pipe would be safe for use after the oven treatment and not compromised :roll:


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

Fuel rail and injectors out. Taking them to a shop for cleaning tomorrow.

Leaking o-ring seals?


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

tt92103 said:


> Fuel rail and injectors out. Taking them to a shop for cleaning tomorrow.
> 
> Leaking o-ring seals?


They look exactly like mine that I did a few days ago, so a yes from me.
My car is noticeably more responsive now.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

silkman said:


> When I copied the original pipe length and used cloth tape to make them similar to OEM, they stay quite low, away from turbo charge pipe and go up again to the fuel rail. In an rhd car, you also have the brake reservoir so theres an extra place to tiewrap them, away from turbo heat.
> 
> Maybe the rubber bands helped after all...
> 
> ...


Replacing my fuel lines when the new pipe clips come so have just tried this in the oven.
It works very well, just put a bit more bend in than you need. The pipe still feels in good condition as well.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Wow, just awesome. No smell of burned rubber to drive the missus crazy?

Didn't expect someone would try that. And I wouldnt be surprised to hear Audi makes them in the same manner as I doubt these pipes are made in the shape when rubber is hot/being vulcanized.

Edit: According to this video, this is how kinked hose parts are made. Somewhere in the video it shows 132 which *could* be a temperature value.





Anyone from the industry around to comment?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

silkman said:


> Wow, just awesome. No smell of burned rubber to drive the missus crazy?
> 
> Didn't expect someone would try that. And I wouldnt be surprised to hear Audi makes them in the same manner as I doubt these pipes are made in the shape when rubber is hot/being vulcanized.
> 
> ...


Replacing mine this weekend so had to try it. I used 3mm welding wire to shape it.
I live on my own so i can even use the dishwasher for engine parts as well.
There was a bit of a rubber smell but not bad, my pizza went in the oven an hour later and was no smell of rubber then.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

After fitting new seals and seeing no difference the next weekend i removed the injectors again and rigged up a simple cleaning rig consisting of carb cleaner tins, some fuel pipe and a 12v supply using an old sky internet router power supply and 2 x 3mm spade connectors.
Ran it for a week now to make sure it wasn't just a placebo effect.
Now this did make quite a big difference.
Runs much smoother, more power, power seems to come in earlier and faster and i am averaging an extra 2mpg on my daily 19m each way motorway run.
Well worth the extra 1/2 hour or so if you are changing seals.
Check out you tube for how to set it up.


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

I couldn't get my newly cleaned injectors into the plastic injector seats on the intake manifold. The fit is too tight and I've broken 2 of them, had to remove the IM, and I fished out the broken pieces. And vacuumed with a little hose to try and get any bits of plastic out, if there were any in there around the valves.
For my car, an AMU engine, the PN is 06B133555C. I've found an aftermarket billet aluminum replacement... $70 for the set of 4. On order.
A couple of websites said these injector seats should be replaced anytime the injectors are removed, for best fitment of the injectors.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

tt92103 said:


> I couldn't get my newly cleaned injectors into the plastic injector seats on the intake manifold. The fit is too tight and I've broken 2 of them, had to remove the IM, and I fished out the broken pieces. And vacuumed with a little hose to try and get any bits of plastic out, if there were any in there around the valves.
> For my car, an AMU engine, the PN is 06B133555C. I've found an aftermarket billet aluminum replacement... $70 for the set of 4. On order.
> A couple of websites said these injector seats should be replaced anytime the injectors are removed, for best fitment of the injectors.


Are you sure they were the correct size seals? They shouldn't be that tight and a little bit of grease helps.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

davebowk said:


> After fitting new seals and seeing no difference the next weekend i removed the injectors again and rigged up a simple cleaning rig consisting of carb cleaner tins, some fuel pipe and a 12v supply using an old sky internet router power supply and 2 x 3mm spade connectors.
> Ran it for a week now to make sure it wasn't just a placebo effect.
> Now this did make quite a big difference.
> Runs much smoother, more power, power seems to come in earlier and faster and i am averaging an extra 2mpg on my daily 19m each way motorway run.
> ...


 Thanks for posting the info, it's spurred me into buying some carb cleaner, as soon as it arrives will be doing the same .



davebowk said:


> Are you sure they were the correct size seals? They shouldn't be that tight and a little bit of grease helps.


Have to agree, following the advice in threads on here I used the tiniest smear of clean engine oil on the o-rings and the fuel rail with injectors attached slid into position in the injector seats with the minimum of effort.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Guys, the injector seals are same top and bottom for BAM engine. For APX they are different.

Need to check correct seals for other engines...


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

silkman said:


> Guys, the injector seals are same top and bottom for BAM engine. For APX they are different.


That's right, but why should it make any difference?
If you're having to exert so much force that something breaks, surely something must be wrong?


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

On my car (AMU engine), the injector is 06A906031J. Same seals on top and bottom. I compared my new seals with the old seals and they matched. They were in really really tight in the injector seat and fuel rail when I removed them. 
I didn't use enough oil/lubrication on the orings. I installed all the injectors on the fuel rail first and tried forcing them all in at once. Next time I will install them in the injector seats first and then install the fuel rail. And use more oring lubrication. A mallet may have been involved in this incident but I don't want to admit that I was that stupid. I will go with the excuse that the injector seats were weakened over time due to the extreme engine heat. :lol: 
My new aluminum injector seats will be break proof.


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## rlszer (Jun 9, 2014)

silkman said:


> Wow, just awesome. No smell of burned rubber to drive the missus crazy?
> 
> Didn't expect someone would try that. And I wouldnt be surprised to hear Audi makes them in the same manner as I doubt these pipes are made in the shape when rubber is hot/being vulcanized.
> 
> ...


132, is the Autoclave temperature - used them in Composites (Aircraft), both Aerostructures, Hamble and Britax.


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## mk1chopper (Jan 14, 2021)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOHAUX-Relea ... B07KW4SKJ2

I used this a replacement when changing my fuel filter and found it impossible to remove the existing connector on the out going side of the fuel filter so they might be the right size for the fuel lines under the engine. Refitting these to the hard plastic fuel line requires specialist tools but I was able to make one using a silicone gun and some bits of wood to clamp the hose, pushing them into rubber hoses should be easier.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

mk1chopper said:


> https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOHAUX-Release-Plastic-Connector-7-89mm/dp/B07KW4SKJ2
> 
> I used this a replacement when changing my fuel filter and found it impossible to remove the existing connector on the out going side of the fuel filter so they might be the right size for the fuel lines under the engine. Refitting these to the hard plastic fuel line requires specialist tools but I was able to make one using a silicone gun and some bits of wood to clamp the hose, pushing them into rubber hoses should be easier.


What you posted is for plastic hard line as it has an o-ring, not sure if its good for rubber hose.

This may be a better fit...
This is for 5/16 hose, theres also a 3/8 variant, probably 5/16 is closer, we in the continent are not good with inches and fractions :roll:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-123-B ... B0089SZOR4

Found it in UK too
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dorman-800-123 ... 224&sr=8-2

EDIT: 5/16 should do according to this, its closer to 7.5mm ID
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/ru ... metre-2192


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## mk1chopper (Jan 14, 2021)

Yes sorry should have made my post a bit clearer, was just showing that although Audi don't sell the connectors there are alternatives available but you need to check the size of the O.D of the part the connector is fitting (the releasing part) onto plus the I.D of the pipe the connector is being pushed into (barbed part).

The one I posted fits the audi fuel filter connection and is the correct size for the hard nylon fuel lines that run underneath the car and come up into the engine bay.


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Silkman said, "Sorry for the long post but someone may find this useful"

No need to be sorry, silkman. Your threads and posts are always quite interesting and in the spirit of contributing ..... Isn't that what forums are for, after all? 
I would absolutely not, as they say, "don't try this at home, kids", but enjoyed reading your process


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Just wanted to update this after about two years. Not good.

*First*, after about a year I noticed the clamps in the front at the fuel rail connection leaking a bit. That was because I used the wrong screwtype clamps which you should NOT use. As with coolant hoses, the hoses contract at the clamped location from the heat cycles and the screwtype clamp becomes loose, thats why Audi uses constant torque clamps.

Here









I used the smallest size I had








This type is the correct:









Use the old ones or buy them new from Audi, they were only about half a euro each. Part is *N90686701 *(14mm x 12width)
#8 in the diagram


https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tts+coupe+roadster/att/2001-229/1/133-133050/



*Second *and most important, the Cohline hoses I used (Cohline 2192) burst about a week ago and I had a fountain of petrol at the engine bay  The 20 year old Audi hoses I replaced had become brittle and cracked but they weren't leaking, I replaced them as preventative maintenance and lol, the result. They didn't leak at the connections, the pipe had burst and was spraying petrol, pics for reference.










































I also emailed the Cohline technical department and they didn't bother to reply to my emails which to me makes it a crap product with equally crap customer service. Cohline is a German company which I understand has also some production in the UK. 

You've been warned.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

That’s pretty appalling life of the Cohline hose .
Have you considered Codan hose (presuming you can get the correct size for the TT)?
It’s highly thought of in the aircooled VW fraternity.





Volksbolts - SAE J30 R9 Fuel Hose Purchase Options For 5.6mm Internal Diamter CODAN Hose


Air-Cooled 5.6mm CORRECT Internal Diamter Flexi Codan Cohline Fuel Hose Purchase Options



www.volksbolts.com




And yes I can see they also stock Cohline .


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

silverbug said:


> That’s pretty appalling life of the Cohline hose .
> Have you considered Codan hose (presuming you can get the correct size for the TT)?
> It’s highly thought of in the aircooled VW fraternity.
> 
> ...


I've heard that fuel lines are now consumables but a burst after two years? I will keep a note about Codan, didn't know the brand.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

> ....
> Audi part for BAM *06a906031bc*
> Bosch part *0280156063*
> These are 269 cc injectors
> ....


BAM injectors are 386cc not 269cc?


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## magwych (Jun 8, 2021)

silkman said:


> Just wanted to update this after about two years. Not good.
> 
> *First*, after about a year I noticed the clamps in the front at the fuel rail connection leaking a bit. That was because I used the wrong screwtype clamps which you should NOT use. As with coolant hoses, the hoses contract at the clamped location from the heat cycles and the screwtype clamp becomes loose, thats why Audi uses constant torque clamps.
> 
> ...


That's a bit worrying if the hose failed like that!
What is tbe date code on the hose? They have a life of 10 years, could someone have sold you old stock?
It also looks like that could be heat damage, hard to tell, TBH. That end of the hoses is rather close to the charge pipe on most models - it routes differently on my 1999 180.
Looking at the Cohline website, they do note that the 2192 has a lower working pressure than earlier hoses, just 6 bar : Fuel Hose / Mid Permeation - 2192 Archives - CohPro


Given rhe prevalemce of ethanol, and rhe higher temperatures inside the TT engine bay, I would go with this. It has a safe working temperature of 150°C. The 2192 is only good to 75 in air :
Ethanol, Biodiesel, R9, spec, superior, Cohline, Marine, automotive, ethanol resistant, ethanol proof,2240.0600


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## darylw357 (May 21, 2019)

My Cohline hose cracked after a year of track use so I bought some new peices and wrapped it in that silver fiberglass heatsheild stuff. I think they should be covered as standard really.


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