# URGENT - Keyfob Problems... Stopped working



## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

Hoping someone can help. Am having an absolute nightmare with my TT (2015 Quattro S-Line 2.0 TFSI S Tronic)... This TT is more trouble than its worth

Drove to some shops just to drop off a parcel... Didn't bother taking my wallet or mobile or anything as I was only popping out to do this which should have taken me 5 mins. Anyway parked up, locked the car as normal. 2 mins later came back to the car and couldn't unlock it. The keyfob was totally unresponsive... [smiley=bigcry.gif] The car had literally been completely fine before locking it.

I also had some important large furniture deliveries which were about to be delivered to my home - my Audi always picks the best time to screw me over. Ended up having to walk back home as fast as I could which wasn't close at all. Just managed to get back with seconds to spare to deal with the delivery which almost killed me... Anyway, used contact cleaner on the inside of the keyfob, fitted new keyfob battery (even though the battery was not old at all), found the spare keyfob and did the same to that. Also found the manual physical key and took that with me. Walked all the way back and found neither keyfob unlocked the car - no response at all to either of them...

Opened the door with the manual key and the keyfobs still weren't doing anything - even holding them against the steering column etc. The Alarm then went off which was particularly nice infront of loads of shops and people. I couldn't switch the alarm off for ages. All kinds of warnings were on the dashboard when I tried to start the car. Kept saying that the key is not present / low keyfob battery etc. Low Electrical System power. Holding the keyfob near the designated area on the steering column was doing nothing and the car kept telling me to put the key there...

Anyway, eventually pressing the stop / start button loads of times and moving the key all over the place and further back than the designated area shown on the steering column (as far back as I could go with it) managed to start the car. Holding the key over this area only worked very briefly and very randomly (holding the key over the actual place you're meant to hold it never worked once) - the car kept saying the key is not present despite holding it there. All kinds of weird stuff was going on on the dashboard. I was just happy to have the car engine started and thought I would drive home quickly so at least the car is on my driveway, but there was an error message on the screen saying Low Electrical Power, Change Keyfob battery and Gearbox malfunction. Regarding the Gearbox malfunction, it said on the screen I could still drive but that the Gearbox has malfunctioned due to an electrical fault - I put the car in reverse (engine running) and despite revving and the gear selector showing Reverse gear, it drove forwards which took me completely by surprise. I had very limited space to react and brake - managed to stop it inches away from a bollard. Anyway - the dash LCD screen kept crashing (zoomed out - writing really small - graphics tiny and messed up - the writing about 10 times smaller than it should be) and doing all kinds of weird stuff. Also saying low power to the electrical system (despite everything being fine before I drove to the shops). Also entire screen went completely black for ages where I couldn't see anything and I had no rev or speedometer. Anyway - after a few attempts of switching the engine off and on, I managed to get the gears working and revs/speedometer showing and I drove home as quickly as I could. The LCD screen went completely black randomly whilst driving home and the car kept telling me the keys were not present all the way back.

Anyway - I wasn't able to lock the car when I got home. I've currently got it hooked up to a CTEK 7.0 Battery Charger and am hoping this sorts it out, but this is ridiculous. None of my keyfobs are currently working at all with the car - no response and I can't even lock the car. I'm guessing a low car battery has caused all this and that I need to now reprogram the keys? The car had started instantly before driving to the shops with no error messages - literally like normal so this was completely out of the blue. How do I reprogram the keys to the car? Everything I've seen online about reprogramming Audi keyfobs seems to talk about putting a key in the ignition etc. but I can't do this as I only have a Stop/Start button. Can someone confirm the proper way to get both keys working again. I read something about putting a manual key in the door, unlocking the door and then pressing the keyfob buttons but when I tried this earlier it didn't do anything. I am currently waiting for the battery to fully charge and after that will do whatever you guys suggest


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## VorsprungDur (Apr 6, 2018)

I've had this kind of weird behaviour with a few cars. Remote totally refusing to work. In both cases it was caused by local radio interference on the same frequencies used by the remote effectively blocking the signal.

The rest of the behaviour does sound like your battery was very low and you've just pushed it a bit too far when trying to get it to recognise the remotes.

Once the battery is back to normal you might need to place the remote next to the steering column for it to be recognised.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Wait until the battery is fully charged & hopefully all will be normal. Leave charging overnight at least, longer if poss.
Hoggy.


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

Thanks for the responses guys. Currently up to 80% charge but it's raining and predicted to rain all night... It's scary charging a car in the rain. Never left live electrical equipment out in the rain before but I noticed some people saying this charger is 'weatherproof' so thought I would risk it - it looks kinda sealed to me so hopefully should be ok - it's not sitting in any deep puddles but it is completely covered in water. I've also got one of those weather resistant extension leads running to the charger outside aswell although that doesn't look that waterproof to me and had tons of water on it when I just checked - I've just put a carrier bag over the extension lead to try and help its chances. Hopefully nothing blows up in the middle of the night


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Can't you put the mains lead plug/socket under the bonnet/boot.
Hoggy.


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Can't you put the mains lead plug/socket under the bonnet/boot.
> Hoggy.


Unfortunately not - I've got the charger cable exiting the bonnet at the top near the bottom of the windscreen with the charger sitting on the bonnet. Barely enough cable to try and put the extension lead under the car - but the main problem is the extension lead is so chunky it's hitting the bottom of the car if I try and push it under - it's too big to physically pass underneath the front of the car


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

If it helps, I had a similar problem recently it was the battery in the remote. It measured 2.85v but wouldn't function. New 2032 in and all was perfect again. Also chances are the batteries are the same age in both fobs hence failing simultaneously.


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

As if I don't have enough to worry about... my extension lead was just attacked by a bloody cat(!) :lol:

Photofit of the criminal


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

OK - update. Charger was fine leaving it out all night in the rain. Battery has been fully charged and reconditioned overnight.

Keyfob buttons however are still not working. Totally unresponsive on both keyfobs. The car starts if you hold the keyfobs next to the steering column but it immediately says on screen that the keyfob battery needs to be replaced... even though there is nothing wrong with the battery. It is also doing the same for both keyfobs. The second you remove the key from next to the steering column it thinks there is no key inside the car

Have started and stopped the engine a few times etc but keyfobs still aren't working. Where to go from here?

I'm assuming the keys must still be programmed to the vehicle if they can start the car when placed next to the steering column(?)

I just saw on some Audi S4/A4 threads people who had a similar problem (their keyfobs weren't doing anything, however in their case, the vehicle lights were at least flashing when they pressed the keyfob button). People in that thread were saying that when the battery goes low, Audis go into some kind of power management mode and disable the remote keyfob function - holding the keys next to the steering wheel is meant to reprogram the keyfobs - this didn't work for people in that thread. They said they disconnected their CCM (Central Convenience Module) and left it unplugged for a while and then when they reconnected it, they are saying it rebooted the system and the keyfobs started working again(?). Where is the CCM on my Audi TT and is this what I have to do? This seems to be a terrible design fault by Audi affecting lots of different Audi Vehicles. Also, even more interestingly some of those people took their cars to Audi, and Audi lied and claimed their keyfobs were all faulty (even though there was nothing wrong with them) and also others said Audi Main dealers weren't able to even fix the problem. They said they ended up fixing the problem themselves by unplugging the CCM and leaving it unplugged for a while

Just saw in another Audi thread people asking how to reset the CCM and people were saying to disconnect the battery and short the negative and positive wires for a few seconds by touching them together... That sounds nuts and like it could cause far more problems


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## AlrightSally (Feb 12, 2020)

I know it's obvious but it's worth checking them batteries again...
I had a very similar problem: fobs not working, emergency key setting off the alarm, starting against the steering column and an annoying bonging saying no key (does this stop when going over 30 consistently as mine did?). I'd say try and get/make sure you have some new 2032 batteries in there - because you can easily fit _similar sized_ batteries... that and some batteries have their expiry date in bigger writing than the spec!

It also takes a couple of go's to get the steering column to recognise the key, clutch down and pressing on/off.


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

Further update - I changed the batteries in both keyfobs again. Still wasn't working. I kept switching the engine on/off and trying different combos of holding the key against the steering wheel column or removing it at different intervals after switching the engine on. I tried pressing different combinations of button presses on the keyfob inbetween removing the key from the steering column - the button presses were doing absolutely nothing, and then all of a sudden when I was about to give up - after pressing the exact same button on the keyfob lots of times with no response, I suddenly heard the central locking lock the car  Managed to get one key working!! The other key still wouldn't work - but kept repeating and doing different button press combos on the keyfob whilst switching the engine on / off and the second key eventually started working again... WTF

The button press combos on the keyfob appear to be essential in getting it to work again

Both keys are now working perfectly  WOOOHOO!!!! [smiley=guitarist.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=guitarist.gif]


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Disconnect both leads from the main battery for 30 mins.
Touching the + & - leads together just drains any residual volts that are left in the circuits & shouldn't cause any probs.
It does appear as if the RF signal from the fobs is very low,
Have you replaced the Fob batteries since this happened, as that is the first thing I would have done.
Hoggy.


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## Saturn5 (Dec 10, 2018)

I accept that the following is unlikley as both your fobs are affected,however, i'lI just throw this in anyway.
I had a a similar "no fob response" issue with my 2016 vehicle.I tried everthing, as you have, but eventually found internal damage as shown in the photo.
My problem started with the vehicle not responding to the remote occaisionally then, a couple of days later there was no response at all.
I split the key fob open as there was nothing to lose at this point and found the coil detached from the circuit board.The key fob was 13 months old from new and had never been abused, dropped or mistreated,however, Audi would not accept any warranty claim and I had to buy a new fob and then pay for both the new fob and the original second fob to be re programmed as a new fob cannot be just 'added' to the vehicle.

I don't think this is the issue you have as previously explained but thought it may be of interest.
If the fob rattles when shaken hard this may be the issue although the coil does get jammed in the fob so the rattle may not be evident.


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## VorsprungDur (Apr 6, 2018)

Master Yoda said:


> Further update - I changed the batteries in both keyfobs again. Still wasn't working. I kept switching the engine on/off and trying different combos of holding the key against the steering wheel column or removing it at different intervals after switching the engine on. I tried pressing different combinations of button presses on the keyfob inbetween removing the key from the steering column - the button presses were doing absolutely nothing, and then all of a sudden when I was about to give up - after pressing the exact same button on the keyfob lots of times with no response, I suddenly heard the central locking lock the car  Managed to get one key working!! The other key still wouldn't work - but kept repeating and doing different button press combos on the keyfob whilst switching the engine on / off and the second key eventually started working again... WTF
> 
> The button press combos on the keyfob appear to be essential in getting it to work again
> 
> Both keys are now working perfectly  WOOOHOO!!!! [smiley=guitarist.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=guitarist.gif]


Very weird but glad you got it sorted.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, let's hope it still works in 24 hours.
Hoggy.


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## macaddict111 (Jun 13, 2018)

Awwww kitteh mechanic!


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

Slight update...

The battery is fine and still fully charged. Still error free on the dash with no warnings about keys being missing or anything. But I've noticed the keyfob takes several button presses to unlock the car... Sometimes 2 button presses and it unlocks, sometimes 3, 4 or 5 are needed etc. NEVER 1 button press... It used to be one button press would always unlock even from a huge distance away...

It's still locking the car with one button press... and the car is starting as normal etc.


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## kevin#34 (Jan 8, 2019)

very probably the FOB has a malfucntion


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## chelspeed (May 6, 2017)

kevin#34 said:


> very probably the FOB has a malfucntion


The fob doesn't know if you're locking or unlocking so if it locks OK then surely that rules out the fob? Do both fobs behave the same?


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

chelspeed said:


> kevin#34 said:
> 
> 
> > very probably the FOB has a malfucntion
> ...


Ok - just checked both keyfobs again (both were recently cleaned with contact cleaner inside and have new batteries). Currently the keyfob I'm using every day has completely stopped unlocking the car - no amount of button presses are now unlocking the car. It is still locking the car with one button press from a huge distance away without any problems. It is also starting the car with no error messages. I got the other keyfob back out and that one is currently unlocking and locking the car as normal with one single button press for both. I feel like this is the car's electronics causing this problem and not the keyfob personally.


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## alliedto (Jan 26, 2016)

Saturn5 said:


> I accept that the following is unlikley as both your fobs are affected,however, i'lI just throw this in anyway.
> I had a a similar "no fob response" issue with my 2016 vehicle.I tried everthing, as you have, but eventually found internal damage as shown in the photo.
> My problem started with the vehicle not responding to the remote occaisionally then, a couple of days later there was no response at all.
> I split the key fob open as there was nothing to lose at this point and found the coil detached from the circuit board.The key fob was 13 months old from new and had never been abused, dropped or mistreated,however, Audi would not accept any warranty claim and I had to buy a new fob and then pay for both the new fob and the original second fob to be re programmed as a new fob cannot be just 'added' to the vehicle.
> ...


I know this thread is quite old now but I had exactly the same component broke off my fob too. With quite a bit of good fortune, I've managed to repair mine however in the photo you posted you appeared to get into the fob with massacring it (like I did). Can you tell me how you did it please?


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## Saturn5 (Dec 10, 2018)

PostPosted: Yesterday, 19:19
I know this thread is quite old now but I had exactly the same component broke off my fob too. With quite a bit of good fortune, I've managed to repair mine however in the photo you posted you appeared to get into the fob with massacring it (like I did). Can you tell me how you did it please? [/i]

_There's no easy way to do this. Unfortunately the case is a sealed unit, it does not just clip together. I prised mine apart using a scalpel and razor blade, however, as I just wanted to find out what the rattling noise was and the fob wasn't working anyway I was not overly careful. The case was pretty much wrecked as a result. Not saying it cannot be done but you would have to be very patient and it would require gluing back together._


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## alliedto (Jan 26, 2016)

Saturn5 said:


> PostPosted: Yesterday, 19:19
> I know this thread is quite old now but I had exactly the same component broke off my fob too. With quite a bit of good fortune, I've managed to repair mine however in the photo you posted you appeared to get into the fob with massacring it (like I did). Can you tell me how you did it please?
> 
> There's no easy way to do this. Unfortunately the case is a sealed unit, it does not just clip together. I prised mine apart using a scalpel and razor blade, however, as I just wanted to find out what the rattling noise was and the fob wasn't working anyway I was not overly careful. The case was pretty much wrecked as a result. Not saying it cannot be done but you would have to be very patient and it would require gluing back together.[/I]


Thanks for your reply mate. I'm quite relieved I didn't destroy mine for no good reason then but I find it odd that it's a sealed unit when most are not, or I presume they aren't. I've electric taped mine together so will just use it as an emergency key until I come up with something. Thanks again.


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## TTSrepeatownee (8 mo ago)

Master Yoda said:


> Further update - I changed the batteries in both keyfobs again. Still wasn't working. I kept switching the engine on/off and trying different combos of holding the key against the steering wheel column or removing it at different intervals after switching the engine on. I tried pressing different combinations of button presses on the keyfob inbetween removing the key from the steering column - the button presses were doing absolutely nothing, and then all of a sudden when I was about to give up - after pressing the exact same button on the keyfob lots of times with no response, I suddenly heard the central locking lock the car  Managed to get one key working!! The other key still wouldn't work - but kept repeating and doing different button press combos on the keyfob whilst switching the engine on / off and the second key eventually started working again... WTF
> 
> The button press combos on the keyfob appear to be essential in getting it to work again
> 
> Both keys are now working perfectly  WOOOHOO!!!! [smiley=guitarist.gif] [smiley=drummer.gif] [smiley=guitarist.gif]


I have exactly the same issue. Go you remember the sequence you pressed the fob buttons?


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## Master Yoda (May 18, 2019)

TTSrepeatownee said:


> I have exactly the same issue. Go you remember the sequence you pressed the fob buttons?


I don't remember any specific sequence - I remember every sequence I had read online definitely did not work though. I do remember that I repeatedly pressed the same button many times quickly in succession when I got it to suddenly work. Make sure your car battery is fully charged as a low car battery (not keyfob battery) was the initial cause of all these problems


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