# Track TT Modifications list



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

As requested this is a thread for track modification discussion and to list out the recommended mods, in a close order of urgency! I'll try and keep this first post updated as a kind of "Sticky" post;

*Modifications:*

1) Weight Saving - First and foremost get as much out as possible

2) Brake Pads, Discs and High Temp Fluid - I use Mintex 1144's, new OEM Discs and 600+ Fluid

3) Tyres - A decent set of tyres makes all the difference around corners (Recommendations and track reviews can be found here: http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=250&t=1064369

4) Tyre pressures - Getting this right, getting this wrong cost me 1 second in 30s so 3 seconds at Castle Coombe (a lap)

5) Racing seats - Saves weight and holds you in place. Better control and safety. ..win-win-win

6) ESP overide - Full off - not Audi off! (Link for how to guide please?)

7) Haldex options - PowerTrak insert, HPA controller, SQS etc

8.) Bravery Mod/Professional Lessons - The best mod *unanimously* agreed on is becoming a better driver!

9) Oil Cooler - In particular for higher horse power applications

10) Knowledge - This forum should help build up a list of do's and don'ts

.... Awaiting additions


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

*Modifications:*

1) Weight Saving - First and foremost get as much out as possible

2) Brake Pads, Discs and High Temp Fluid - I use Mintex 1144's, new OEM Discs and 600+ Fluid

3) Tyres - A decent set of tyres makes all the difference around corners (Recommendations and track reviews can be found here: http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=250&t=1064369

4) Racing seats. Saves weight and holds you in place. Better control and safety. ..win-win-win

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

number 4 added to the list. 

There's going to be points for suspension, refreshing bushes & Cookbots/Defcons, adjustable tie bars and a proper track focused wheel alignment.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good stuff this, where do people stand on things like suede wheels (sweaty hands), short shifters, oil coolers, cold air feeds, etc...


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Once harnesses and proper seats are in then i'll be looking to change the wheel, until then however i'd quite like the air bag just in case! Definitely need a pair of gloves before then however as i suffer badly with sweaty hand leading to a lack of grip!

Oil cooler - It's on my list at some point, many people say they suffer will oil temps on track while others say its not required. I'll be looking at a Mocal one at some point with a thermostatic plate, i want to get the engine running as safely as possible as a priority.

Short Shifters - I personally don't understand these, for me i can only see these shaving milliseconds off of a gear change when you get it right, but i stand to be corrected!

Cold Air feeds - Theory is that these won't make a difference. Mighty Mods tested all sorts of air feeds on a dyno with temp sensors and none made any reportable difference, you have to remember all the air sucked in will be passing through a 800ish degree turbo, it's going to get hot regardless and you need to cool it between the turbo and the intake manifold to make any difference.

Cold air feed to the brakes... now this could be beneficial, it's another thing on my list to investigate!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Cold air feeds mythbusted...


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Sorry, meant on the brakes, should have been clearer, I'm at the TT shop today having the TTRS brake flaps fitted today as well as a few other things so was wondering about getting more air to them


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## brushwood69 (Dec 17, 2012)

5. ESP overide full off - not Audi off!
6. Tyre pressures - Getting this right, getting this wrong cost me 1 second in 30s so 3 seconds at Castle Coombe (a lap)
7. Haldex options. PowerTrak, HPA, SQS etc
8. Bravery Mod
9. Knowledge - This forum should help build up a list of dos and donts


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Great additions, added to the list (some re-worded :lol: )


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Maybe different to you guys due to engine spec but after losing my track cherry at Bedford the other week the no.1 item for me is an oil cooler. After 5 or 6 laps it was 125 ish and to be fair that's a bit hotter than I would like it. So therefore I had the come in and let it cool down. Brakes on the other hand were amazing


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Completely agree and for a track car, i can't see an oil cooler having any detrimental effect's either, so would only be a good idea in the long run.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Matt B said:


> Maybe different to you guys due to engine spec but after losing my track cherry at Bedford the other week the no.1 item for me is an oil cooler. After 5 or 6 laps it was 125 ish and to be fair that's a bit hotter than I would like it. So therefore I had the come in and let it cool down. Brakes on the other hand were amazing


What is a safe max for the oil temp on a track? I was at the TT shop today and they showed me the Recir + Arrow trick, so would be good to keep an eye on the oil temp on the 19th when I do Bedford myself. I know coolant is 49 C, what is the oil ref code? in fact, is there a list of ref codes anywhere?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

As far as I'm aware there isn't an oil temp code, but happy to be corrected!

I keep mine on 49C when on track, just to monitor the coolant temps.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I picked up and fitted the side to side short shift tonight to match up with the fore and aft jobbie already fitted. Snickerty snick. Why? I had one on the 911 track car and liked it so have been looking to get the same feel. Think i might have it set a bit too tight as 6th is now tricky. Will play with the adjustment to get it right.

VT


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

brushwood69 said:


> 8. Bravery Mod


Having had a big one a few years ago I've deffo lost my bottle to some degree and my foot is less in that it used to be. Need track time to get it back.

Want to add in.....

11. Education. I had lessons will Callum Lockie and was 4-5 seconds a lap quicker in the Porsche. Massive difference. I will be investing in this before more HP.

VT


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

I had L33JSA sitting in with me on Saturday - and the difference between first session and last session was definitely visible


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It's certainly on my list next time, to get some tuition!! It's not massively expensive either from what I've seen.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Started on removing the sound deadening tonight, heat gun method, plastic scrapers and sticky stuff remover (as recommended by VT)... I was AMAZED at how easy this was!!! The tar pad itself peeled up in one nice big lump and after a 5 minute soak with sticky stuff remover followed my a wipe down with blue roll, all of the residue was gone! That stiff is AMAZING!! Great find VT!!

Unfortunately my heat gun broke, stopping progress.  but I'll borrow the work one to get cracking tomorrow!!

This is so much easier than the Subaru I assisted with, which took ages and required a respray inside after from all the scratches!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Sticky stuff remover??


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Stuff of gods...

http://www.lakeland.co.uk/8976/Sticky-Stuff-Remover


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## KarlD (Jul 23, 2015)

It's the exact same stuff I use on my pants. VERY highly recommend.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

KarlD said:


> It's the exact same stuff I use on my pants. VERY highly recommend.


Too much information Karl [smiley=stop.gif]

VT


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

This is what I regularly have to put up with... That and the constant threat of purposefully loose wheel bolts!! :lol:


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Hell of a burden. :?

VT


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

1781cc said:


> Matt B said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe different to you guys due to engine spec but after losing my track cherry at Bedford the other week the no.1 item for me is an oil cooler. After 5 or 6 laps it was 125 ish and to be fair that's a bit hotter than I would like it. So therefore I had the come in and let it cool down. Brakes on the other hand were amazing
> ...


I am not sure if there is a climate code for oil temp - I was using the multi gauge option on the liquid TT which shows coolant air egt and oil temp

My goal is to get the oil temp to stay below 110. I was amazed by Lees Clio as we did about 12 fast laps and came in and the oil was still sitting at 93 degrees. It's the downside of turbo cars


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Have you already bought an oil cooler Matt? Assuming you install with the assistance of Lee, in which case I'd love a walk through guide of what you do (to kindly borrow/steal of course!).


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Not yet Nick but rest assured it will all be documented


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thread resurrection time!!

This thread is too useful to stay buried!

After buying Godbarber's 225 with a friend over the weekend, we're looking to get it on track asap!

Godbarber/Liam kindly took care of some of the big stuff for us; interior mostly stripped, buckets and cage in, decent friction material (carbotech) and high temp fluid, stage 1 map, decat, updated air filter, 40mm lowering springs, federal RSR tyres.

My priority before anything else is to do as much as I can to eliminate understeer.

After reading a few useful posts on here, and advice from a couple of forum members (here and RS246) I'm putting together a shopping list. Please have a look and let me know if these are the right bits, and let me have your feedback.

1. Cookbots. These come with superpro bushes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201845202749

How big a job is installation?

2. Front ARB. I've been advised that the R32 ARB is a good cheap upgrade. Is an eibach or H&R version worth the extra?

3. Haldex insert. I've seen a mention of a couple of different versions - how do I know which one I need!?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182366805626

Looking further ahead, I'd like to upgrade the suspension to coilovers, get some wider wheels and tyres on there, and pursue a stage 2 map. The above 3 mods are intended to be "easy wins" before we get out on track the first time. I also intend to upgrade myself: I'll be booking some instruction.

Thanks in advance!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Hello and well done on the excellent purchase, hope to see you on track this year!

1) absolutely, cook it's improve steering feel no end.

2) don't bother, bigger ARB at the front will only reduce front grip and increase understeeer! I've recently removed my front ARB as have a few others, in yet to run like it but others have reported only good things so far.

3) again, I've got one but not yet ran with it, it's more about making the haldex more predictable at high speed cornering however.

Coilovers are a must, the springrates as standard will be way to soft for the track and will be body roll hell! If you do take my advice on the ARB then I would wait until you have a decent set of coilovers on her.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks Nick!

That's interesting about the ARB

Perhaps I'll just get the cookbot and haldex mods done first then, see how it is on track and take it from there (with a view to upgrading the 40mm lowering springs/std shock combo to coilovers next).

I see quite a few cheaper coilovers options listed for the TT. Any of them any good? E.g. FK or AP? I had FK konigsports on an old golf, which were good, and I know a lot of the Golf boys like AP's for road use.

Trying to keep this cheap!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

No problem at all.

I used AMAX 40mm springs and FK 'Sports' shocks for one trackday, the car was awful although slightly better then the 40mm springs and OEM shocks combo i tried to use on the Nurburgring (Ask me how fun it is bouncing and crashing around there!).

It's worth saving for a decent set of coilovers as spring & shock combos just aren't the one for track use. I run GAZ Golds, these are £900 a set which is cheap for what they are, but still an investment. I can't offer comment on any over coilovers available unfortunately, I'm sure there are some cheaper kits out there that will serve a purpose, the main problem i find is that off the shelf kits all run too spring rates that are too low for serious track use.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I run FKs and I find they are ok, I get barely any lean but the whole car is polybushed and sitting as low as possible, I think having the cage in helps with stiffness though. I do plan on going the GAZ Gold route as well though so I can have some adjustability for wet tracks, etc.

What are your spring rates Nick?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I'm 500lbs/in front and 800lbs/in rear at the minute... toying with the idea of getting a set of 600lbs/front and 950lbs/in springs as well, to ramp it up a little further in the future for those hot summer days.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

1781cc said:


> I run FKs and I find they are ok, I get barely any lean but the whole car is polybushed and sitting as low as possible, I think having the cage in helps with stiffness though. I do plan on going the GAZ Gold route as well though so I can have some adjustability for wet tracks, etc.
> 
> What are your spring rates Nick?


Are those the FK AK? I know they have a few versions.

In terms of the polybushes, I guess it makes sense to do those at the same time as the coilovers?

Are there any other jobs worth doing altogether (particularly on the front suspension) to save on labour costs? Is any extra adjustability required to get a good geometry setup?

I can see my garage bills mounting up already haha

Thanks for all the advice so far, much appreciated!

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

FK AK? No idea mate, they came with the car, they have purple bits on them ha ha

My front setup is basically full polybush (including top mounts) and coilovers, rear is the same but with adjustable tie bars to pull the rears in. I've had no problems with setup so far, put I guess is you want more adjustability then adjustable top mounts are the way to go, have a look at NIck's build as he's just fitted some and they look good and are on my shopping list now.

Engine/Gearbox mounts might be worth doing while you are in there, again, havent done mine yet.

Finally, get some TTRS front brake air deflectors - have a look at the TTShop website for them, they made a huge difference to mine after fitting as it helps cooling.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

First upgrades underway:

Got the cookbots + caster increase bushes on order, hopefully an R32 rear ARB arriving in a week, and plan to order the haldex insert as soon as I figure out if I need the circlip or hex type! Any ideas guys? Tried emailing one of the sellers on eBay to ask but no response.

Keeping an eye out for a good deal on used coillies too.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Good buys on everything except the rear ARB... you're only losing grip from the rear with that!

Regarding the haldex insert, you do have to get under the car to check as the swapping from one to the other is a bit random! You'll need either a mirror on a stick, or a phone camera with a light and video everything around the top of the controller.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Good buys on everything except the rear ARB... you're only losing grip from the rear with that!
> 
> Regarding the haldex insert, you do have to get under the car to check as the swapping from one to the other is a bit random! You'll need either a mirror on a stick, or a phone camera with a light and video everything around the top of the controller.


Thanks Nick!

I've read conflicting things on the ARB.

However, for the sake of a £25 part and relatively straightforward install, I think I'll give it a go and just hang on to the OEM one so I can go back if need be. I'm out to have fun in the car, rather than set fantastic lap times, so in my mind anything that moves the behaviour from understeer towards oversteer = more fun!

Maybe I'm wrong, let's see.

Also keep in mind the car is still quite soft - 40mm springs are not particularly firm. Perhaps when I'm on coils, the R32 ARB will have to go.

I've also been looking at wider wheels (so I can get wider rubber on) and seen these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331552823585

9.75" wide!

Will they fit without rubbing? What's the optimal offset to aim for?

The same manufacturer do 9" and 9.25" wheels too.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It'll feel less understeery but it will technically have less grip, so slower. Even with soft spring rates it would still be quicker without, just have this in the back of your mind and don't be afraid to experiment and go back to standard if/when you find it's quicker.

Wheels, I have 17x9 at an et of 10 and had to do some arch work to get the fronts to fit properly. You can run bigger, I've seen 10j but with more archwork and shorter springs to allow clearance of the front strut internally. Also check the weights, I love xxr designs but have no idea on the weight, which is important to try and reduce unsparing and rotational weights. Team dynamics prorace 1.2 are light-ish but also strong as hell so are my chosen wheel.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

For wheel weights, have a look at this:

https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... DbzWn318gw

I went for Rota Grid GTRs


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> It'll feel less understeery but it will technically have less grip, so slower. Even with soft spring rates it would still be quicker without, just have this in the back of your mind and don't be afraid to experiment and go back to standard if/when you find it's quicker.
> 
> Wheels, I have 17x9 at an et of 10 and had to do some arch work to get the fronts to fit properly. You can run bigger, I've seen 10j but with more archwork and shorter springs to allow clearance of the front strut internally. Also check the weights, I love xxr designs but have no idea on the weight, which is important to try and reduce unsparing and rotational weights. Team dynamics prorace 1.2 are light-ish but also strong as hell so are my chosen wheel.


That's useful info on the wheel setup.

Arch work meaning, having them rolled, or something more drastic? What tyre size are you running?

Do you think you could've got away with a higher offset, still avoided the strut, and avoided any arch work? Et10 sounds very low!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > It'll feel less understeery but it will technically have less grip, so slower. Even with soft spring rates it would still be quicker without, just have this in the back of your mind and don't be afraid to experiment and go back to standard if/when you find it's quicker.
> ...


Rolled the arches (badly :lol: ) and I'm probably going to space the backs out a bit too,for added clearance.

Anything higher than ET10 and the inner rim will be touching the spring perch, so no unfortunately!


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