# 8j Rear Caliper Carrier Bolts



## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

Hi Folks,

I'm looking for some advice on replacing my rear disks. I have all the parts, and got my self the requires spline bit to undo the caliper carrier bolts, but I cant for the life of me get it into the top bolt. There is just not enough space between the top bolt and a brace of some sort that sits directly behind it.

I have searched and searched for pictures to make sure I am even looking at the right bolt but can't find any. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction? Does anyone have any pics of how to access the top bolt?

Cheers!
Ben


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## andys_tts (Oct 12, 2016)

Yes, this one is tricky to get to.

I ended up using the spline socket with a small extension and then used a ring spanner. They do recommend that you use new bolts or threadlock when refitting.


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

I found undoing the anti roll bar gave enough space.


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

Bugger, it looks like it is the upper control arm that gets in the way. Not sure how I feel about trying to undo it!!


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

What model do you have?

Would a bit with a different length solve your problem? The M14 comes in several different lengths.


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

It's a 3.2 mate, I do need a 'shorter' bit or a breaker bar with a narrower top. I'll visit a tool shop at the weekend and see what I can get. I have been quoted 70 pounds to have the bits fitted for me but I'd rather do it myself.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Not the best pics but may help https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1576106


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

MT-V6 said:


> Not the best pics but may help https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1576106


That's interesting, either I am trying to undo the wrong bolt or your car doesn't have the same upper control arms on the rear as mine. I will have to get underneath and see if I can snap some pics. You have far more clearance than me at the rear, I can't even get my bit in the bolt head as there is not enough space behind the bolt.

Thanks!


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

I managed to removed the rear discs and install new ones without removing these bolts, rubber mallet on the back of the disc once the pads and calliper are out it is a bit of a tight squeeze but it will come


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

SeanTTS said:


> I managed to removed the rear discs and install new ones without removing these bolts, rubber mallet on the back of the disc once the pads and calliper are out it is a bit of a tight squeeze but it will come


Are your's vented? Mine are real fatties!


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

The 3 different models talked about here all have the same rear brakes.

I would love to see a video of someone getting these rear discs off without having to first remove the caliper carrier.


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

Yea there vented


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

If I have time I'll do a video tonight of getting it out without removing the calliper carrier


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

And here we go it can be done quite easily ...

Cup of coffee, dirty hands and half hour later...


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

Well there you go!

Proof that it can be done.

Many threads on other forums about it not being possible to do without removal. GTI's / R32's etc... When I upgrade my rears il see if it can be done on the RS too.


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

qooqiiu said:


> Well there you go!
> 
> Proof that it can be done.
> 
> Many threads on other forums about it not being possible to do without removal. GTI's / R32's etc... When I upgrade my rears il see if it can be done on the RS too.


I have used the same method to replace the discs on my friends TTRS


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

SeanTTS said:


> And here we go it can be done quite easily ...
> 
> Cup of coffee, dirty hands and half hour later...


You bloody legend, talk about above and beyond. I think you just saved me 70 quid!


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

Happy to help mate


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Am I the only one concerned about the marks/dents caused by the corners of the caliper carrier into the disc surface when being wiggled/forced out?

I managed to buy a normal M14 spline, 1/2 drive driver, then cut the shank length to the most minimum size with all of the spline still showing out of the drive piece. That'll then fit enough to do the top bolt without removing anything else, little bit of a squeeze but works.


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

Your only levering it out not smashing it out it leaves no marks


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## bodben (Aug 10, 2017)

SeanTTS said:


> Your only levering it out not smashing it out it leaves no marks


Yep, confirmed, not only do you not have to remove the carrier but it is bloody easy. Not a mark left on the new discs. Job Jobbed!


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

bodben said:


> SeanTTS said:
> 
> 
> > Your only levering it out not smashing it out it leaves no marks
> ...


Fantastic!


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

Barr_end said:


> Am I the only one concerned about the marks/dents caused by the corners of the caliper carrier into the disc surface when being wiggled/forced out?


I'd say so yeah, doesn't take much force, as can be seen it's just a little wiggle.


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## Stav (Jan 7, 2007)

This is great guys and one of the most timely threads ever as I plan to do a full disc and pad replacement this Saturday. I am a little at a loss as to why all the other guides are determined that the carrier needs to be removed however if it's that easy?

Anybody like to buy an unused M14 socket?! :wink:


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## SeanTTS (Nov 8, 2015)

Stav said:


> This is great guys and one of the most timely threads ever as I plan to do a full disc and pad replacement this Saturday. I am a little at a loss as to why all the other guides are determined that the carrier needs to be removed however if it's that easy?
> 
> Anybody like to buy an unused M14 socket?! :wink:


I hadn't read any how to guides prior to changing my discs and pads, I did look at the spline head bolts and realised I didn't have the sockets for them so I tried an alternative method which luckily worked haha


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Stav said:


> I am a little at a loss as to why all the other guides are determined that the carrier needs to be removed however if it's that easy?


Removing the carrier is the correct way to do it, having to bang the disc out should be a last resort if you can't get the bolts out. Shame the shape of the carrier doesn't allow the disc to come out easily

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Found this YouTube on squeeky brakes. Pretty good information, even if it's not Audi TT specific.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

And if the discs are corroded badly on the inside (a barrier of rust buildup) they won't slide off from the hub so easily that the carrier has to be removed and the disc will have to be "pursuaded".. Worst case scenario is to remove the hub+bearing from the car with the disc and use a hydraulic press to separate them and then notice that the bearing is toast too and also replace it :roll: good thing that the bearings are dirt cheap, SKF ones can be bought for less than 60eur/piece.

I actually haven't removed the rear discs on my TT but Octavias and Golfs I've done also use that 14mm triple square carrier bolt. On those they can be removed with a 1/2" ratchet/breaker bar and an extension


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## Stav (Jan 7, 2007)

Just for other folks benefit, did all my discs and pads today and on the rears I had to remove the carriers. Not especially corroded and pretty worn, so thinner than the ones going on, but absolutely no way around it. This was a 2011 TTS. hope that helps someone


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

The plot thickens.

Il throw my experience into the mix soon. They must be removed because I'm adding a carrier adapter but il try and remove the disc before hand.


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## The Yeoman (Mar 31, 2016)

No go from my end.. tried to pull them with the carrier attached but no luck


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## YorkshireMidge (Nov 8, 2014)

Really pleased I found this! I was about to do the rear disks on my V6 when I realised the largest spline I had was too small, and with the bolts being so difficult to get to, I didn't fancy my chances anyway if the bolts are anything like the front ones I did a few weeks ago - which needed a really good soak in penetrating fluid and then a hydraulic jack under a breaker bar to shift the bottom carrier bolt on each side.

So, I've given the method a go and it worked a treat. However, once the old disk was off, I decided to use a file to very lightly take off the sharpness on the two edges of the carrier that were going to make contact with the front surface of the new rotor just to be on the safe side. I also cleaned up the area of the carrier where the back edge of the new rotor was going to make contact as it was eased on.

It's important to get the disk absolutely central to the hub, and the carrier will still flex a tiny bit as you do it. i.e. if you just offer the disk up, you'd convince yourself it couldn't go on. I actually managed it by hand without the need for a soft-headed hammer or anything. All it did was scrape a bit of the protective paint.

Begs the question why they just didn't design the carrier to allow the disk to go on this way without any persuasion. It can't need more than a couple of mm off the carrier.

One final point. The calipers did wind in but they put up one hell of a fight and I actually bent the tommy bar of my wind back tool doing it. Does this suggest a pair of new calipers might be wise? I see Euro car parts do a Pagid replacement but wasn't sure how good these were.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

You need to replace all the bolts. Measure the hub axial and radial runout to determine if you need to replace the hub assembly. The matig surface of the rotor and hub must be free of rust and corrosion to transfer heat evenly. Also make sure to remove corrosion on the rim/hub mating surface using a brush. If you forgot to do it just make sure to retorque the lug bolts because it will get loose.


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