# How reliable is the V6 3.2 , is it a ticking bomb?



## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Hi, I'm on the lookout for a MK1 Roadster , and I want to get one that is mint .
Apologies if this is a question asked many times before but I did have my heart set on a 225 , but there appear to be quite a few V6 Roadsters for sale, many of which appear to have relatively low miles and at tempting prices .
Is the V6 a ticking bomb with its expensive to replace timing chains?
Whatever I get will be a keeper, with a low (mainly summer) annual mileage , so would a well-maintained 3.2 be a good choice , or are they best avoided ?
Thanks .


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

The VR6 has indeed one costly repair: the chains

However, this generally only needs replacing when causing problems (check with VCDS) and for most only once in the lifetime of the car.
The 225 needs a belt more often and has turbo-goodies which might cause problems. Overall both the VR6 and 1.8t belong to the list of best VAG engines out there.

Go drive a VR6 and 225 first, very different beasts. 225 can be tuned to be faster (for cheaper), but the VR6 sounds amazing.
Just keep in mind that you might have to replace the chains and enjoy the VR6 noise.
_Note: mine were due at 175K miles._


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

All older cars will need maintenance, the V6 is a fine engine but in the end it's just a machine like any other. My chains on the V6 are fine at 106,000 miles.
Drive both. I love the instant power at any rpm on the V6, whereas the turbo engines need to spool up for best performance. It's just down to your choice.
The V6 does feel heavier on the steering tho!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, If it will be a keeper with low annual miles get the V6. 
With regular oil changes the V6 chain will last the life of the engine, a 225 engine will last as long as the cambelt.
A cambelt should be replaced every 5 years regardless of miles covered, a V6 chain doesn't wear out when stationary.
If the V6 had been avail in 2001 I would still have it, but I can't bear to part with my 225 after all these years.
As mine is a low miler the cambelt is always a worry. Does it really require replacing at 5K miles & 5 years?
Hoggy.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Thanks for all your replies  
It certainly has given me food for thought now ; I'm searching daily and I don't appear to be finding too many really nice late 225's out there , plenty of 2000-2003 yes but hardly any 2004-2005.....
I'd like a later car purely as it would be younger and so (hopefully) less problems....
I gather by 2005 the 225 didn't meet forthcoming emissions standards so perhaps sales fell off a cliff because of that?
In contrast, there appear to be plenty of late V6 roadsters around, I found about 5 lovely-looking 2004-05 examples in about 5 minutes when searching online.
This brings me to another question , manual or DSG?
I'm aware that DSG might offer an easier driving experience but again, is it a disaster waiting to happen in an old car?
Are there any tests eg with VCDS that can be done to check if a DSG is in fine fettle?
Thanks .


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Mine's a V6 with DSG. 106,000 miles. When I test drove it, I found it hooked up nicely, shifted flawlessly up and down the box and worked fine with the paddles. I had it checked at a VAG gearbox specialist, and it was fine. I had the Haldex oil and filter done, and the diffs work fine with no growling.
The DSG is a delight to use, and with auto blip on manual downshifting, coupled with that V6 noise, it's such fun.
I understand your caution, but you can start to overthink these things (as I do!). Drive a V6 with DSG and see how you like it, I love mine but it's down to what you feel that counts. 
Find a good VAG indie close to you and you'll be fine.

Good luck with your search!! Keep us posted....


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Just an afterthought... there must be THOUSANDS of these V6 engines and DSG boxes in many VAG variants.. we only tend to hear about the problem ones....
There's lots of high milers out there too...
Just saying...


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## EddieMunster321 (Jan 14, 2016)

Hoggy said:


> As mine is a low miler the cambelt is always a worry. Does it really require replacing at 5K miles & 5 years?
> Hoggy.


No, it's a myth that we've carried on since the 70s, along with Japan not using salt on the roads!!

Far and away the most likely cause of failure is the tensioner and/or bearings, simply because companies are using cheaper and cheaper metals to make these parts along with lower quality grease and housings. As an example, cheaper OEM water pumps use plastic shrouds/impellers, a catastrophe just waiting to happen!


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Hoggy said:


> Does it really require replacing at 5K miles & 5 years?
> Hoggy.


When i had mine done the garage was pretty sure it was the first time it had been apart. There was a dodgy looking stamp saying it had been done in the service book 7 year previous.
If it was the original it had done 97k and was 16 year old.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Hoggy said:


> Does it really require replacing at 5K miles & 5 years?
> Hoggy.


Having replaced belts twice on mine I can say the last one was definitely good after 8 years so I'd say you are very safe for 7 years.


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## IMMUSTARD (Aug 26, 2018)

I bought mine a year ago,and use it exactly the way you intend to,its not my everyday car so the v6/roadster combo is perfect(engine noise amazing)I think every engine/gearbox of cars this vintage you can find weak points,but keep the maintainance up and should last a good few years,and those summer days with the top down you will love!


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Thanks again for all the comments, even more food for thought!
I ask about DSG as my brother-in-law had a brand new Passat TDI DSG back in the day (57 plate) and it was nothing but trouble from the day he had it.
I dare say it's a totally different box to that fitted in the TT but his kept kangarooing at slow speeds , irrespective of driver actions.
It got so bad he used to warn every passenger that got in it what the car was likely to do  .
The VW main dealer refused to accept there was a problem, and each time it went in for them to look at it "no problem could be found " :roll: .
After about 12 months they finally sorted it out , I believe by either a new control unit , or a complete software update (it's a long time ago now and my memory is a bit hazy  ) .
Knowing some of them were troublesome when new , hopefully you can see my possible suspicion of them when they're 14-15 years old....
Again, thanks for all the info, I shall certainly post on here once I've finally pulled the trigger .
Once last general question though...
The prices of cars I've seen are all over the place , with many touting the TT's "future classic " credentials.
Given that I'm seeing cars priced from £2K up to £6K how will I know if I've come across a good buy?
Are any of the online price guides accurate?
I don't want to get caught out and pay over the odds (not if I can help it anyway )


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Honestly, mine is a lovely V6 DSG roadster, wants for nothing, goes like a whippet and looks mint. 
I would expect £3,750 for mine in a private sale....they are worth nowt at dealers trade in.
See the one you like and buy the 'best' you can budget for. I bought mine for £3,300 and have spent around £1,300 in 18 months getting it how I want it.
But they are really, really good! Just come back from a 120 mile run this aft through Northumberland, car ran great, now at 106,000 miles. Home now with a grin a mile wide!
Just to put some meat on the bones of my comments...
Purchased June 2018 £3300 from a dealer. Full MOT, 3 years of receipts, reasonable MOT history.
Added 4 new Uniroyal Rainsports, £400 ish. Optional.
Had the DSG checked, fluid (to rule out water in oil), Mechatronic and road test. £60 Optional.
Haldex oil and filter. £140 Optional.
Engine oil and filter £120 (bit expensive if you ask me). Optional.
ABS sensor £140 Necessary.
Pixels / dash repair by ECU Testing (last week) £300 Optional.
New Bilstein OEM rear shockers (last week) £190 Optional.
'Optional' meaning I chose to have the repairs done, car did not let me down.

So that's £4,650. Costs are from memory, but pretty close.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Thanks for the reply , there are some lovely cars on this thread I have to say 8) .
Think I'm going to have to try both the 225 and the V6, manual and DSG.
Cheers


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi silverbug,

I bought a v6 dsg roadster a couple of years ago for 6k, fash and low miles (15k) I haven't spent a penny on repairs as yet.

Like you my car is a keeper and isn't my daily but I would always recommend buying the best car you can afford over buying a rough car then spending £££ getting it to the point that you will be happy.

Cheers


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Oh, that is lovely 8) .
That seems cheap for such a low mileage car!
If I saw one as good as that I'd snap it up!


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

That's a stunning, low mileage car, but as the MOT history shows, still not doing many miles in it. Always a conundrum when we don't want to add miles to such a mint low miler.
Rare to find one like that...congrats!


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Merlin1 said:


> That's a stunning, low mileage car, but as the MOT history shows, still not doing many miles in it. Always a conundrum when we don't want to add miles to such a mint low miler.
> Rare to find one like that...congrats!


Thanks Merlin1,

Trust me when I say I'm not afraid to put miles on the car, I bought it as a second car to use with the roof down on dry days, certainly not for the school run etc, hopefully this year I can use it some more and if not I might think about putting it into storage for when I hit the mid life crisis 

Cheers


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## Dutch (Jan 23, 2019)

Keep in mind that most horror stories about the DSG are from dry-clutch models (mainly the 7-speed used in eco-boxes).
The TT 3.2 uses the wet-clutch 6-speed DQ250.

The DQ250 is a strong DSG box. Problems with the electronic brain can happen but it isn't the unfamous DSG box everyone talks about.
Also, not all DSG boxes are created equal, comparing the TT 3.2 DSG with a something like a Passat isn't exactly fair.
I drove my bosses' 2018 T-rock with the 7-speed DSG several times, but hated it. My TT DSG drives so much better, even though it is 15 years older.


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## Merlin1 (Jun 8, 2018)

Jam13 said:


> Merlin1 said:
> 
> 
> > That's a stunning, low mileage car, but as the MOT history shows, still not doing many miles in it. Always a conundrum when we don't want to add miles to such a mint low miler.
> ...


Fair comment re the usage and once again, *what a great find*. I remember you commenting when you first bought the car, and indeed it is a keeper. If you ever choose to sell, keep my number (PM sent).
When I bought mine I wasn't even looking at Audis, I was after an SLK, but we randomly tripped over my TT when out at car lots. They do look the dogs in red with the roof down, and it was a warm summer's day. I was super impressed but thought 'hey, just an 1800', then wow! A 3.2!. My next thought was 'bet it's a manual' then wow! DSG! And quattro. Dealer offered me a test drive....I was sold. I've had quite a few nice motors but these are sooo nice, quick, comfy, safe, great looking (subjective). Cheap as chips and great value.
I've done a few bits, mostly with my indie coz I'm not scrabbling round on the drive way any more. Car had four ditchfinders on when I bought it so that was first job. Then just went through the car to get it right. 
That said, if I came across a low miler like yours, I would buy it. Two TTs on the drive would be cool!


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Regarding the life span of a rubber belt verses a metal chain, a couple of things to consider.....
Rubber does perish with age irrespective of use. Think of door seals, tyres, rubber bushes, etc. An old classic vehicle kept in a garage as a collector's car, hardly driven, will still have perished rubber seals, tyres, etc after many years.
Metal will not fatigue or perish if not used, although it can suffer surface corrosion if not kept lubricated. However, the biggest reason to change the rubber timing belt is cost. It isn't a cheap job but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a destroyed engine! Why take that risk? I did have my 225's belt (and all ancillary pulleys) changed recently - the belt was in very poor condition and my mechanic remarked that I did it in the nick of time. My 225 is now 18 years old. I don't know when the belt was last changed.
One final analogy.... I'm a professional sailor, yachtmaster instructor and have sailed all over the world. People who buy or own yachts are always penny pinching when it comes to changing the stainless steel standing rigging, and yet they will pay many thousands of pounds (sometimes more than 100,000 pounds) to buy the boat. Stainless steel can suffer crevice corrosion, it can look perfect on the outside but corroding on the inside. This particularly effects stainless bits hidden away, out of sight. The industry consensus is to change the standing rigging every 10 years, give or take. Again, regardless of boat use - constantly crossing oceans or constantly sitting on a mooring. If your standing rigging fails it will bring down the mast, possibly do major deck or hull damage and worst of all, injure or kill someone! That will certainly cost a hell of a lot more than replacing the standing rigging..... for me, safety always comes first but as a cost analysis it also isn't too clever to save a few pounds in the short term, only to get stung big time when the belt snaps (or mast comes down).
My 2 cents worth  Take it or leave it....


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Dutch said:


> Keep in mind that most horror stories about the DSG are from dry-clutch models (mainly the 7-speed used in eco-boxes).
> The TT 3.2 uses the wet-clutch 6-speed DQ250.
> 
> The DQ250 is a strong DSG box. Problems with the electronic brain can happen but it isn't the unfamous DSG box everyone talks about.
> ...


The fact the TT DSG is different to the Passat is good to know , thanks  .
I asked my sister and in fact it had an entirely new gearbox fitted under warranty at about 11 months, after that they loved the car 8) .
I'm a bit more reassured about going for a DSG now ,cheers.


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## westo3 (Jan 15, 2011)

I would test drive both manual and DSG if there is no clear favourite I would go for the manual , less to go wrong and ( if a keeper) rarer


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## Woodhouse (Dec 20, 2017)

davebowk said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Does it really require replacing at 5K miles & 5 years?
> ...


have you really got an rgv 500? I'm genuinely envious if so I also envious of 97k on a belt


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## Woodhouse (Dec 20, 2017)

Van Well said:


> Regarding the life span of a rubber belt verses a metal chain, a couple of things to consider.....
> Rubber does perish with age irrespective of use. Think of door seals, tyres, rubber bushes, etc. An old classic vehicle kept in a garage as a collector's car, hardly driven, will still have perished rubber seals, tyres, etc after many years.
> Metal will not fatigue or perish if not used, although it can suffer surface corrosion if not kept lubricated. However, the biggest reason to change the rubber timing belt is cost. It isn't a cheap job but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a destroyed engine! Why take that risk? I did have my 225's belt (and all ancillary pulleys) changed recently - the belt was in very poor condition and my mechanic remarked that I did it in the nick of time. My 225 is now 18 years old. I don't know when the belt was last changed.
> One final analogy.... I'm a professional sailor, yachtmaster instructor and have sailed all over the world. People who buy or own yachts are always penny pinching when it comes to changing the stainless steel standing rigging, and yet they will pay many thousands of pounds (sometimes more than 100,000 pounds) to buy the boat. Stainless steel can suffer crevice corrosion, it can look perfect on the outside but corroding on the inside. This particularly effects stainless bits hidden away, out of sight. The industry consensus is to change the standing rigging every 10 years, give or take. Again, regardless of boat use - constantly crossing oceans or constantly sitting on a mooring. If your standing rigging fails it will bring down the mast, possibly do major deck or hull damage and worst of all, injure or kill someone! That will certainly cost a hell of a lot more than replacing the standing rigging..... for me, safety always comes first but as a cost analysis it also isn't too clever to save a few pounds in the short term, only to get stung big time when the belt snaps (or mast comes down).
> My 2 cents worth  Take it or leave it....


Full belt change and ancillaries at a audi specialist in Leeds £350 all in so no excuse to skimp.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Woodhouse said:


> davebowk said:
> 
> 
> > Hoggy said:
> ...


It's an RGV250 with the RG500 engine fitted. Theres 2 pipes under the seat. I built it 22 year ago and it's still going strong.









The belt being original was just the views of the mechanic that did the job.


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## fertooos (Dec 15, 2019)

However, this generally only needs replacing when causing problems (check with VCDS) and for most only once in the lifetime of the car.
The 225 needs a belt more often and has turbo-goodies which might cause problems. Overall both the VR6 and 1.8t belong to the list of best VAG engines out there.


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