# URGENT HELP NEEDED ( TT NOT STARTING)



## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Hey. Well was driving along as you do, car suddenly cut out. No warning lights or anything. Petrol light was on but saying I had 5 miles left, presumed it was lacking of fuel, (was on my way to get petrol as it was) pushed it to the garage, filled it up but to no avail. just keeps turning over but never starts :/ any help would be great. Thanks


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## Dash (Oct 5, 2008)

_Disclaimer: I don't know what I'm talking about._

Try disconnecting the battery for five minutes to clear everything before trying again.


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## jhon (Sep 16, 2010)

It's probably unlikely but it could be flooded. Worth a try anyway - keep the throttle pressed all the way to the floor and keep cranking it. If the plugs are fouled this will help clear them. After about ten to fifteen seconds of this, stop, take your foot completely off the pedal and try again.

Or maybe it's just taking time for the fuel to feed through.

Hope you get it sorted - good luck!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, You will have to check for sparks at plug & fuel, can you hear fuel pump running?. Have you had the cambelt replaced ? 
I do hope not, but a few of these sudden engine shutdowns while travelling along have been cambelt failure. 
I believe you can see camshaft spinning by removing oil cap, get someone to spin engine over, while you have a look. 
Hoggy.


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## Charlie (Dec 15, 2006)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, You will have to check for sparks at plug & fuel, can you hear fuel pump running?. Have you had the cambelt replaced ?
> I do hope not, but a few of these sudden engine shutdowns while travelling along have been cambelt failure.
> I believe you can see camshaft spinning by removing oil cap, get someone to spin engine over, while you have a look.
> Hoggy.


This was my first thought (cambelt) my fingers are firmly crossed for you that it is not this,

Charlie


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks for the replys. Well after sitting for half an hour or so it started fine, drove for about 2 miles and then it just cut out again. Seems to start sometimes after a wait. So I'm guessing not the cambelt? Got the RAC on the way,There hook it up to some sort of diagnosis I presume? 
Could it be MAF related?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Sam, Thank goodness not the cambelt . Unlikely to be the MAF, fuel pump perhaps, but keep us informed of outcome.
Hoggy.


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## cogsy1976 (Jun 5, 2010)

Sounds like it could be cam sensor mine did the same used to run then cut out also called RPM sensor I bet its this!


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Ok well had the RAC out, found a tear in a hose, taped it up
To get me home, and bang car cuts out again 5 miles down the road. 
It seems to start, work for like 5 minutes then cut off, then won't let me
Start it again for like
20? It couldnt be a immobiliser issue could it? The key symbol goes out like it should tho, after every turn of the key. 
I'm stumped :/


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Sam, Call the RAC out again they should have known that a split hose would unlikely to have been the problem.
Did they do a scan for codes & a reset, I suppose it started 1st time when they arrived.
Hoggy.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Sam, Some thing going open circuit as it warms up perhaps. Crankshaft sensor perhaps (not camshaft sensor), but a scan of codes is required. Perhaps someone with VagCom is in your area, where are you located?
Hoggy.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Okay well it started again, and I managed to drive it the 5 miles or so home, but on the way it like
Lost power a couple of times for a second or so, like a misfire? The revs went down to 0 then shot back up to where ever on the rev counter I was, like it was jumping? 
Would have called the RAC out again but wasent prepared to wait 3 hours again. But it's on the drive now, I shal whip my vag com out in the morning, and post the results. I really appreciate all your help. I'm
Really greatfull. Thanks


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## malstt (Apr 18, 2007)

May be the fuel pump relay, mine wouldnt start when it was warm and then eventually stopped string all together. Changed the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor after advice from here and that sorted it. Search my posts for one called -help car wont start. lots of info on that thread. hope that helps and you get it sorted.


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## cogsy1976 (Jun 5, 2010)

Sorry hoggys right it's crankshaft sensor. Sounds identical to what happened to mine, rac didn't diagnose this either they thought it was fuel related in which case they will give up and you will have to have car towed to garage


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

cogsy1976 said:


> Sorry hoggys right it's crankshaft sensor. Sounds identical to what happened to mine, rac didn't diagnose this either they thought it was fuel related in which case they will give up and you will have to have car towed to garage


Hi, Yes, camshaft sensor will not prevent TT from starting, but crankshaft sensor will.
Hoggy.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

hey, gave it a scan with vag com.

got these two faults..

16514 - oxygen (lambda) sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in circut
P0130 - 35-10 - - - intermittent

16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): no signal
P0322 - 35-10 - - - intermittent

cleared them and started the engine again, then scanned again, but the faults didnnt come back?

do i need to take it for a quick spin?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Take her for spin, if she stops again, rescan.
Intermittent speed sensor, not sure if this is the same as crankshaft sensor, If so, looks like its going open circuit as it warms up. 
Hoggy.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Okay well I took it for a quick drive, like a mile most. Probs isn't long enough warmup. So does it look Likly to be the engine speed sensor? If so are they reletivly easy to change yourself? Or a pain? Would it be best to get audi to do it? 
Thanks for the replys


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Sam,The connector for it, is in front of intake manifold, right of dipstick. Its the middle connector of the 3. Unplug & check for moisture etc. I believe Peter ss had a prob with his & moisture.I have the resistance readings if you want to check out the sensor. 
Hoggy.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

okay well im currently not at my car, so ill check the connector when i next get a chance. I spoke to my mechanic friend, past him on the fault code (p0322) to which it came up as the crankshaft position sensor in his database, i dont suppose anyone knows the part number for the engine speed sensor / crankshaft position sensor ?
thanks.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If you've had the odd backfire as it cuts out then this would also point towards the crank sensor. Often it just refuses to start.

To check the crank sensor you do not need to remove it. To check it is relatively simple. Remove the small cover in front of the inlet manifold by the dipstick. You will also need a multimeter to measure resistance.

Take off the cover in front of the inlet manifold. The screws turn through 90 degrees to disengage (some later TTs have Posidrive screws which can be seized tight - make sure your screwdriver is a good fit!). Prise off the hose clip at the end and undo the two socket screws with a 5mm Allen key. Then tuck to one side without disconnecting the pipes and wiring. Do not strain the dipstick tube as it can easily break - there's a tang at the back of the plate that needs to come out of the tube vertically without bending the tube too much!

    

In the last picture you can see some wires going under the inlet manifold. This plug/socket is what you need to disconnect to check the sensor. The wires go behind and you need to trace them to make sure you are connecting to the crank sensor and not the knock sensors. Both are on the block but the crank sensor has three pins and goes down to the right at the clutch end of the engine. The knock sensors (two off) are high up on the block. The crank sensor should measure 700 to 1000 Ohms.

Here's the crank sensor:










The sensor end fits into that rusty hole lower right on the picture:










To get at it you need drive the front of the car onto ramps to raise it slightly and take the engine under cover off. you can then reach up with an allen key, undo the sensor and replace it.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Thank you very much for the pictures/guide. Very much appreciated. Ill post the outcome as soon as i find out. If anyone does know the part number, that would be useful. thanks


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

06A 906 433 C - impulse sender 570mm AJQ APX APP - £74
06A 906 433 L - impulse sender 200mm AUQ ARY AUM BAM - £74
06A 906 445 - seal 17x2 - £1.80

Check details with dealer against your car reg/chassis No. in case the above information has been superseded.


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Okay so good news, replaced the crank sensor and all car now starts and doesnt cut out. 
but on the way home i noticed something wierd, like its hard to explain, but when the revs hit like 3-4 it sort of flutters abit before shoting me off. :/


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## whitty (May 17, 2002)

sam_carrots said:


> Okay so good news, replaced the crank sensor and all car now starts and doesnt cut out.
> but on the way home i noticed something wierd, like its hard to explain, but when the revs hit like 3-4 it sort of flutters abit before shoting me off. :/


Have you tried driving it with the MAF disconnected - possibly maf failure symptoms


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

I havent tried the maf yet. i will later on. its weird like iot hits 3k and it like hold back? till 4k and then i think its as it should be. does this in every gear.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You could also disconnect fuse 10 for a few minutes to reset the ECU - it may have adapted tosomething strange whilst things were going wrong so could do with a clear out so it learn from scratch again.


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## ttsteve (Nov 1, 2007)

That's the trouble, sometimes you can get two faults at the same time. So you may well have another to find. Sounds like it anyway. Best of luck.


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## DAZTTC (May 20, 2005)

Hi did you replace the spit hose ?

DAZ


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## sam_carrots (Aug 23, 2009)

Hey. ok so i unplugged the MAF but to no change. tried the fuse, but still no change. After driving for a few miles it seemed to get better? Not to sure. No i haven't changed the pipe yet, would that cause an issue like that? its taped up? Basically it revs fine up to 4k and then seems to stop? no matter how much you press on the pedal, then like a second at most then kicks back in and revs up normal. I opened the bonnet after a drive and there was a weird sound, not sure if its normal? but it sounded like sludge? ha and sort of like pebbles hitting a sheet of metal in a echoey place. If anyone can point me in the right direction to find the fault that would be great. I have vag com, but thats bringing up no fault codes.


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## 127ultima (Nov 16, 2010)

Hi Have you checked for any air leaks. The small hoses from the inlet manifold are made of braided rubber and can leak could of happened when checking/changing the CPS. Also when you ran low on fuel it might be worth checking/changing the fuel filter.


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