# turns over..no start



## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok so ive been having problems lately.. my 2000 audi tt quattro will turn over but not start..ive check for fuel, there is fuel, fuel pressure and there is enough, there is spark also. i tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake manifold and it started for a moment then shut off...i dont have any codes as ive checked with a vagcom anyone have any ideas? maybe bad fpr? injectors?

thanks


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

How did you check for fuel? If you only checked for pressure that doesn't mean the injectors are working. If it works with starting fluid then it sounds like fuel isn't reaching the combustion chamber. Try logging IDC with vag com, though I don't know if anything shows up before the engine is running.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

well i also took of the fuel return line and cranked over the engine and fuel came out


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Immobiliser maybe ????


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

1wheelonly said:


> Immobiliser maybe ????


well ive read that 2000s dont have have to deal with that..i dont know i mean the day it stopped working i turned it on backed out of my driveway and when i put it in 1st gear and tried to go it just turned off..after that it would just crank but not start


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

sounds electrical. check all grounds. All 4 injectors won't fail at the same time, so maybe also look at crank angle sensor, or anything that provides a signal to the injectors, mainly the ECU. Having pressure at the rail only tells you that the fuel pump works.

The immobilizer won't cause the car to not start- it will fire, run for about 2 seconds, then shut off. The key icon will also flash on the dash.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

It would also be a good idea to check all related fuses- easy stuff first. You'll also need to figure out if it's a fueling issue or a spark issue. Pull out a coilpack, put a spark plug in it, and hold it close to the valve cover while someone else cranks the engine. It'll spark if working properly.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> sounds electrical. check all grounds. All 4 injectors won't fail at the same time, so maybe also look at crank angle sensor, or anything that provides a signal to the injectors, mainly the ECU. Having pressure at the rail only tells you that the fuel pump works.
> 
> The immobilizer won't cause the car to not start- it will fire, run for about 2 seconds, then shut off. The key icon will also flash on the dash.


ill look at the ground ....i checked with vagcom and im not getting any codes and i know that the crank angle sensor throws a code when its bad...i did have a problem before where i would turn it on and idle bad for a little bit and then shut off during this time the throttle was unresponsive for a little bit


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Crank speed sensor doesn't always show a code when it's bad


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Wak said:


> Crank speed sensor doesn't always show a code when it's bad


is there a way to test it?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

migel_hrndz said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> > Crank speed sensor doesn't always show a code when it's bad
> ...


Hi,G28.. No continuity between terminals 1 & 3 or 1 & 2.....480-1000 Ohms between 2 & 3 on male terminals.
Hoggy.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Wak said:
> ...


 ok i just test the sensor how you told me and the crank position sensor seems to be working just fine...


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

can a bad fuel filter cause this??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Have you checked fuses No.10,29,32,34,& 43 
Hoggy.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Fuel filter would cause you to have low/no pressure at the FPR, and you mentioned that pressure is fine, so I doubt it's the filter.

Check fuses first, then ground out one of the spark plugs to see if you're getting spark. If spark is fine your CAS should be fine as well, then perhaps it's time to look at injectors.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Once you've checked the fuses are O.K. check/replace ECM relay J271,in under bonnet relay box.
Hoggy.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Crank sensor could be your problem.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> Fuel filter would cause you to have low/no pressure at the FPR, and you mentioned that pressure is fine, so I doubt it's the filter.
> 
> Check fuses first, then ground out one of the spark plugs to see if you're getting spark. If spark is fine your CAS should be fine as well, then perhaps it's time to look at injectors.


i checked the fuses theyre all fine..and i also took out the spark plugs, ground them and there is spark


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

It's worth a try if you can access your crank sensor remove it and give in a clean as there may possibly be a lot of metal particles blocking the signal from it.
I've seen this happen before on a vauxhall astra


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> It's worth a try if you can access your crank sensor remove it and give in a clean as there may possibly be a lot of metal particles blocking the signal from it.
> I've seen this happen before on a vauxhall astra


 ill give it a shot


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

OK, sounds like you're making progress. There are only 4 things that a car needs to run: fuel, spark, air, and timing. Doubtful that the car isn't getting air, and based off everything so far it sounds like spark is ok. Since you mentioned that it runs with starting fluid, chances are timing is ok. Everything seems to point to something preventing the injectors from actually firing. Fuse 32 on the side panel is supposed to be for the injectors, that's the first thing I'd double check. Replace with a known good one since sometimes fuses can blow without looking like they're blown.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> OK, sounds like you're making progress. There are only 4 things that a car needs to run: fuel, spark, air, and timing. Doubtful that the car isn't getting air, and based off everything so far it sounds like spark is ok. Since you mentioned that it runs with starting fluid, chances are timing is ok. Everything seems to point to something preventing the injectors from actually firing. Fuse 32 on the side panel is supposed to be for the injectors, that's the first thing I'd double check. Replace with a known good one since sometimes fuses can blow without looking like they're blown.


i checked every fuse with a multimeter and theyre all ok..is there anything else that might prevent the injectors from spraying fuel?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

can the fpr cause this also...i looked around the forums and i saw that if you take the vacuum hose off and there is fuel then the fpr is bad, i did this but there was no fuel in there, can they fail any other way?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Perhaps try checking voltage across the fuse holder when someone cranks to see if the ECU is even sending a signal to the injectors?

I haven't heard any stories of an FPR that failed in a way that blocks off fuel from reaching the injectors.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Looking at the wiring diagram, the positive line for the injectors comes straight from fuse 32. The grounds go to different outputs from the ecu, nothing else in the circuit. The ones going to the injector from the fuse is a red/violet line. If the fuse is fine and it runs with starting fluid, there may be a break in that line somewhere... I'd expect the fused power to be bad if all the injectors aren't firing.

You can also pull a plug and sniff the chamber after cranking to see if there's a fuel smell, if there is then chances are the injectors are fine.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Have you checked the spark plugs for correct gap as they maybe burnt out and too large to jump?.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Have you checked the spark plugs for correct gap as they maybe burnt out and too large to jump?.


 They should be OK..I also replaced then just in case and its still the same thing


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> Looking at the wiring diagram, the positive line for the injectors comes straight from fuse 32. The grounds go to different outputs from the ecu, nothing else in the circuit. The ones going to the injector from the fuse is a red/violet line. If the fuse is fine and it runs with starting fluid, there may be a break in that line somewhere... I'd expect the fused power to be bad if all the injectors aren't firing.
> 
> You can also pull a plug and sniff the chamber after cranking to see if there's a fuel smell, if there is then chances are the injectors are fine.


Is there a way to test the injectors with vagcom?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > Have you checked the spark plugs for correct gap as they maybe burnt out and too large to jump?.
> ...


That's that one eliminated

If you've done the spark plug sniffer test after cranking it over and can confirm fuel is evident then crank position sensor is still a possibility as injectors almost certainly last the duration of the cars life and more.


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

Replace crank position sensor, even if it doesn't fix it they all pack up at around 100k it seems anyway and will stop you being stranded. Id say chances are it will fix it. Mine didn't throw a code and then it did later. Get an oem one like Febi and not the Chinese rubbish as its a critical part.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

gvij said:


> Replace crank position sensor, even if it doesn't fix it they all pack up at around 100k it seems anyway and will stop you being stranded. Id say chances are it will fix it. Mine didn't throw a code and then it did later. Get an oem one like Febi and not the Chinese rubbish as its a critical part.


+1 replacing the sensor and NO it doesn't throw a code up until you unplug the stupid thing.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> gvij said:
> 
> 
> > Replace crank position sensor, even if it doesn't fix it they all pack up at around 100k it seems anyway and will stop you being stranded. Id say chances are it will fix it. Mine didn't throw a code and then it did later. Get an oem one like Febi and not the Chinese rubbish as its a critical part.
> ...


going to give it a shot and see what happens


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > gvij said:
> ...


 wishing you all the best on that one and your problem is solved


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

Good luck also, its a fiddly job. When the guy suggested cleaning it I laughed. With the amount of labour required to remove it and change it and its defined life replacing it is a no brainer with an oem bosch, audi or febi sensor.
Would love to hear if it fixes it. It fixed my no start.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Laugh all you want, it's something that worked on someone's car when there was no where on Saturday night so tried and worked lol
Also it's fairly easy enough to replace the sensor fyi


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Laugh all you want, it's something that worked on someone's car when there was no where on Saturday night so tried and worked lol
> Also it's fairly easy enough to replace the sensor fyi


ok so it seems like its a no go..i replaced the sensor and tried to start it but no luck..my battery was kinda low so im going to charge it and try it again but i doubt it


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Laugh all you want, it's something that worked on someone's car when there was no where on Saturday night so tried and worked lol
> Also it's fairly easy enough to replace the sensor fyi


any more ideas??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi,Did you check/replace ECM relay J271,in under bonnet relay box, as I mentioned earlier.
Hoggy.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Hi,Did you check/replace ECM relay J271,in under bonnet relay box, as I mentioned earlier.
> Hoggy.


i checked the two relays in the back box under the bonnet and they seemed to work ....tested the with a multimeter and and a 12v power source


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Did they click when Ign turned on ? Should be able to feel it, if finger held on it while someone turns Ign on.
Hoggy.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Sorry to hear that mate, have you checked the cam sensor or throttle body?.
If your saying you can start it with spray then a possibility that your trotter body has failed and that doesn't always throw up any fault codes?.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Did they click when Ign turned on ? Should be able to feel it, if finger held on it while someone turns Ign on.
> Hoggy.


 I try that again


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Sorry to hear that mate, have you checked the cam sensor or throttle body?.
> If your saying you can start it with spray then a possibility that your trotter body has failed and that doesn't always throw up any fault codes?.


Would the cam sensor stop it from starting??

And is there a way to test the throttle body??


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

Im not being funny but you may need to buy a working TT to swap parts into to check. Alternatively low loader it into Audi? They would have factory tech backup.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

I think we may need to focus on the fact that it runs with starting fluid... to me this means that spark and timing are working, but something is up with fuel.

I'd pull one of the injectors out of the manifold, keep it wired in, then watch it as someone cranks. If it doesn't spray then you'll have found your culprit.

If you really aren't getting fuel, I would then find the red/violet line that goes to the injectors (this goes straight to the 10A injector fuse), and test for 12V on that line on each injector. If there isn't voltage, then either there's a break in that line, the fuse is bad, or there's an issue with your ECU.

If you can find a spare ECU, it would definitely be worth your time to check it out. I haven't seen it happen specifically, but I figure there's a way for the ECU to fail where the injector drivers stop working- which would cause it to run with starter fluid.

PM me your email if you want me to send you a copy of the injector wiring diagram.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Also check out this thread:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthrea ... fuel-press

Very similar issue to yours. Ended up being the fuel pump relay. Interesting because he also had pressure at the rail.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Sorry... I wasn't looking at the diagram closely enough. Fuse 32 also runs to the fuel pump relay, so if your relay is bad fuse 32 never gets power.

I'm pretty certain it's either your fuel pump relay or the fuel pump relay fuse.. I just don't understand how you're getting fuel pressure since it appears the pump is also part of that same line.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> Sorry... I wasn't looking at the diagram closely enough. Fuse 32 also runs to the fuel pump relay, so if your relay is bad fuse 32 never gets power.
> 
> I'm pretty certain it's either your fuel pump relay or the fuel pump relay fuse.. I just don't understand how you're getting fuel pressure since it appears the pump is also part of that same line.


well i took the fuel pump relay before and tested it and it works and as for the fuse ive tested all of them and theyre all ok


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Throttle body or take it to the dealer for diagnostic and you'll definitely find your fault.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

have you checked for voltage at fuse 32 while cranking yet?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Here's the wiring. Still sounds like the fuel pump relay to me.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> Here's the wiring. Still sounds like the fuel pump relay to me.


ill try putting in another one and see what happens


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Pull the fuel pump out and check the pump itself

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

1wheelonly said:


> Pull the fuel pump out and check the pump itself
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i dont think thats the problem i used a fuel pressure gauge and it has good fuel pressure


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok so i decided to recheck everything again( mostly because i wasnt sure if the tests were accurate due to the fact that it wanted to rain so some tests i did were in a rush) and it seems like im not getting enough fuel pressure its about 10 psi...another thing that i noticed was that when i was testing fuel pressure and cycling the key i only heard the fuel pump prime once..so i took out the key and put it back in right away, and i didnt hear it prime, then i took out the key a gain, waited a little bit (5-10 sec) and cycled the key and the fuel pump primed ....so im guessing its the fuel pump going bad ( i think this because i recently replaced the fuel filter).......... any thoughts??


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

10 PSI is way too low for the injectors to properly atomize the fuel... I'd think that a new filter would only increase the fuel pressure though. You're absolutely certain the lines are on properly?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> 10 PSI is way too low for the injectors to properly atomize the fuel... I'd think that a new filter would only increase the fuel pressure though. You're absolutely certain the lines are on properly?


yes..i made sure i hooked everything up correctly...by the way it was reading 10 psi with the ignition on (no cranking)...you think its the fuel pump, because thats what im thinking?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

I'd check the pressure while someone cranks first, but bad fuel pump does sound like a possibility.


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I had a similar issue on my old A4 cab, it was the fuel pump on that

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

Have you checked the injectors are spraying fuel if one is removed from the head? If they aren't its the
fuel pump/filter
relay
throttle body?
crank position sensor
ecu

You've checked theirs a spark, theirs going to be air if you remove the airbox, that only leaves fuel
Even if its the transponder it will still run for 2 seconds before shutting down so it isn't that.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> I'd check the pressure while someone cranks first, but bad fuel pump does sound like a possibility.


 ok i cranked it over twice and got 20 psi and then cranked it over 3 more times and got 40 psi


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

i also tried one longer crank and it gave me about 10-12 psi


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Bentley states Residual press should be 22psi
If you get it started..
Fuel press @ idle 36psi.. FPR Vaccum hose disconnected 43psi
Hoggy.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Bentley states Residual press should be 22psi
> If you get it started..
> Fuel press @ idle 36psi.. FPR Vaccum hose disconnected 43psi
> Hoggy.


well i cant start it..do you know how much its suppossed to be with the ignition on?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

migel_hrndz said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, Bentley states Residual press should be 22psi.
> ...


Hi, As above, Ign on, Residual pressure spec 22psi. 
Hoggy.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Hoggy said:
> ...


Then I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is bad since I'm only getting 10psi


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## actionman37 (May 13, 2012)

migel_hrndz said:


> 1wheelonly said:
> 
> 
> > Immobiliser maybe ????
> ...


100% wrong! all TT's regardless of year have immob


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

actionman37 said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > 1wheelonly said:
> ...


im pretty confident its not that


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok i just replaced the fuel pump...its still the same it will not turn on...


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok i just replaced the fuel pump...its still the same it will not turn on...


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

What did that cost you


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> What did that cost you


$200...if i cant figure it out within the next week im going to have to take it to the shop....i tried clamping the return line and it tried to start...is there a way to tell if the fpr is stuck? i looked in the vacuum line and there was no gas


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > What did that cost you
> ...


 I'm afraid I cannot help you there but saying that is there any fuel coming through the fuel line going to the fuel rail?. 
If its not the pump as you said you were pretty sure it's that and it's not the relays or crank sensor?, then I say if you are getting fuel through the lines connected to the fuel pressure rail then it's the throttle body that has failed as this is quite common on VAG group vehicles but again that's another one to tick off the fault list once replaced and I understand you don't wish to keep pouring money into your car and do feel for you but there's no way of really knowing until it's been scanned with a proper diagnostic tool.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


I'm really sure that all the relays work, there is fuel, and I do have a vagcom( real).is there a way to test the throttle body?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Have you checked for fuel in the combustion chamber after cranking yet, or voltage to the injectors?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> Have you checked for fuel in the combustion chamber after cranking yet, or voltage to the injectors?


I didn't smell any fuel in the combustion chamber and how can I check for voltage?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

take a look at the wiring diagram I posted a few pages back. There should be a red/violet line that goes to each injector. Just tap into one of them and check for voltage while someone cranks.

It definitely sounds like your injectors aren't firing- according to the diagram, it's either fuse 32, the pump relay fuse, the fuel pump relay, a break in the wiring between fuse 32 and the injectors, or a bad ECU. I doubt it's the ECU because the car runs with starting fluid, but it's possible (though unlikely) for just the injector drivers to fail somehow.


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

at this point I think it's also worth pulling the fuel feed line and cranking it just to verify you're getting fuel at the regulator as well.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> at this point I think it's also worth pulling the fuel feed line and cranking it just to verify you're getting fuel at the regulator as well.


I did that before and I am getting fuel


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

I'm really not sure of there is a way of testing the throttle body but if you maybe get some advise from Wak he maybe be be able to help with that and using vag com to find out if the body works. I can't think of anything else that could be wrong if your getting fuel through the piping.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Fuel relay and fuel test pipe


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Fuel relay and fuel test pipe


ok so i pulled the injectors out, cranked it over and they are not firing


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Migel_hrndz, edit if you have fuel coning out of the line it must be gushing out and the relay is working yes?.
There can't be many more things to check as most of its been covered.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Migel, Without me reading back through all the posts again,have you checked fuse 32, as suggested earlier.
Hoggy.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

No compliance :?

Everything mentioned and not much done.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Migel_hrndz, edit if you have fuel coning out of the line it must be gushing out and the relay is working yes?.
> There can't be many more things to check as most of its been covered.


yes fuel is coming out, and the relay is working


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Migel, Without me reading back through all the posts again,have you checked fuse 32, as suggested earlier.
> Hoggy.


yes its all good


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

One line going to each injector should always be live.

If you look at the wiring diagram, you'll see that, as long as your fuel pump relay is working, one side of fuse 32 always has 12V. Check the terminals of fuse 32 to see if you have 12v first. If not, you can narrow it down to the wiring between the fuel pump relay and fuse 32, or the fuel pump relay itself.

If you do have 12v, check for 12v at the injectors on the red/violet line. If you don't have 12v, it may be a break between fuse 32 and the injectors. If you do, it might be an ECU issue.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> One line going to each injector should always be live.
> 
> If you look at the wiring diagram, you'll see that, as long as your fuel pump relay is working, one side of fuse 32 always has 12V. Check the terminals of fuse 32 to see if you have 12v first. If not, you can narrow it down to the wiring between the fuel pump relay and fuse 32, or the fuel pump relay itself.
> 
> If you do have 12v, check for 12v at the injectors on the red/violet line. If you don't have 12v, it may be a break between fuse 32 and the injectors. If you do, it might be an ECU issue.


i rechecked everything..i took out the fuel pump but everything(other than the gasket that came off a little bit) was in order, so i checked for fuel at the injectors and fuel was coming out but it was a tiny bit, i feel like its more of a fuel pressure issue

but fuel pump is brand new, so fpr maybe?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Have you checked this fuel fuse on top of the battery.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> Have you checked this fuel fuse on top of the battery.


 i checked it, it all looks good..i think i might have found the problem...somehow whenever i crank it over fuel pressure will go up to around 41 psi however i goes down fairly quick


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok after getting good pressure at the rail when ever the injectors fire, its a weak spray


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

what voltage have you measured at the injectors?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> what voltage have you measured at the injectors?


 last time i checked it was around 12v ... ill check them thoroughly tomorrow , ive been kinda busy with other stuff


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> crono35 said:
> 
> 
> > what voltage have you measured at the injectors?
> ...


they have 12v here is a video of the injectors .. they seem much stronger now


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

ok i appreciate everyones contribution but i think im just going to have to take it to the shop...


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Sad to learn it's not fixed yet.
Good luck and hope it's a cheap fix.


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

That's a lot of fuel coming out. There must be a strong smell of fuel from the exhaust. If there is Id look at the throttle body. youve said its sparking, is it letting in air?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

i think i fouond mky no start problem...this is the gasoline straight from the fuel pump


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

migel_hrndz said:


> i think i fouond mky no start problem...this is the gasoline straight from the fuel pump


I was going to say are you sure that is petrol squirting as it should at least be enough to fire if not run if its arming air or no air as you'd always have a bit. You would have a very strong smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust with that spray pattern.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

gvij said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > i think i fouond mky no start problem...this is the gasoline straight from the fuel pump
> ...


yeah it is..this is a sample that i took and it looks like there is water in the tank


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

gvij said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > i think i fouond mky no start problem...this is the gasoline straight from the fuel pump
> ...


yeah it is..this is a sample that i took and it looks like there is water in the tank


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

There me thinking you got fed up and having a large shot lol

It does look odd but can't be sure what's in it.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> There me thinking you got fed up and having a large shot lol
> 
> It does look odd but can't be sure what's in it.


hahaha yeah if i can fix this thats what ill be doing !!

but anyway this is the reason why i think its water


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > There me thinking you got fed up and having a large shot lol
> ...


How did water accumulate in the fuel tank if this is the issue?.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


im not quite sure, ill have to look into that..but it makes sense to me because during the days in which the symptoms started it was raining...the day that it just wouldn't turn on anymore there was a storm and raining pretty hard


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

But how would rain water get into the fuel tank regardless of how hard it rained?.


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## dopeyonspeed (May 17, 2012)

I dont know if this is why you have water in the tank but under the petrol filler cap has a drain hole that gets blocked. Mine used to fill up with water .Is the petrol cap on properly,are the petrol caps air tight?


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> But how would rain water get into the fuel tank regardless of how hard it rained?.


not quite sure......... ill see if the car starts by pressurizing some fuel directly into the fuel rail tomorrow


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Damn, that's one of those situation where you seriously wouldn't consider it unless you saw it.

Is it possible that someone did that to you on purpose? I'd run the pump until the tank is dry and refill.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > But how would rain water get into the fuel tank regardless of how hard it rained?.
> ...


Yes maybe try that.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


ok..SHE FIRED UP!!!!........i pressurized clean gas and took two cranks but she started up!!


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Sandy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


Wahaay :-D


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

so thank you, sandy and the rest of you that helped out, really appreciate it!!

and for anyone that has a no start and everything check out, check the fuel!!..... i didnt even consider it being the problem


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## gvij (Jan 27, 2011)

Congrats


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> so thank you, sandy and the rest of you that helped out, really appreciate it!!
> 
> and for anyone that has a no start and everything check out, check the fuel!!..... i didnt even consider it being the problem


Who would have thought water in the fuel :lol:


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## hey3688 (Oct 4, 2013)

Have you found out why there was water in the fuel, How it was getting in there.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

hey3688 said:


> Have you found out why there was water in the fuel, How it was getting in there.


 not yet..im going to check all over and see where it came in...im also thinking that it could've been from the station itself (tank was almost full) and the day i refilled it was raining too


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

migel_hrndz said:


> hey3688 said:
> 
> 
> > Have you found out why there was water in the fuel, How it was getting in there.
> ...


I don't think it wad a leak but more like the station pump .


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

Sandy said:


> migel_hrndz said:
> 
> 
> > hey3688 said:
> ...


yeah the way i see it..its pretty hard for water to get in the gas tank


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Don't use that gas station again  I'd go have words with them about this.


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## turbo87 (Aug 3, 2009)

Just read this entire thread and congrats on finding the fault  Can the rain water have effected or corroded any other parts in the engine or is it a simple flush out and ready to go?


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## crono35 (Dec 27, 2013)

The only thing I'd worry about is the injectors, since they aren't meant to work with water (people who use fuel injectors as water injectors usually report them corroding in short order). However since it wasn't 100% water, I'd run some fuel cleaner through them, keep an eye for lean codes and call it a day.

Definitely need to talk to the gas station- who knows how many other cars were affected. I'm guessing they had a leak that made it into their fuel storage tanks. Not something I would have even thought to check for, at least until verifying that the injectors were properly working.


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

turbo87 said:


> Just read this entire thread and congrats on finding the fault  Can the rain water have effected or corroded any other parts in the engine or is it a simple flush out and ready to go?


well i watch videos on youtube of a guy that works on vw/audi (mechanic) and i saw he did a flush and all he did was run clean fuel through the lines a couple of times so i think it should be ok


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## migel_hrndz (Feb 12, 2014)

crono35 said:


> The only thing I'd worry about is the injectors, since they aren't meant to work with water (people who use fuel injectors as water injectors usually report them corroding in short order). However since it wasn't 100% water, I'd run some fuel cleaner through them, keep an eye for lean codes and call it a day.
> 
> Definitely need to talk to the gas station- who knows how many other cars were affected. I'm guessing they had a leak that made it into their fuel storage tanks. Not something I would have even thought to check for, at least until verifying that the injectors were properly working.


yeah the day that i refilled the gas station that i normally go to was being serviced so i went to another one and shortly after i had problems so yeah


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