# Bolt-on exhaust trim



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I've managed to get a new exhaust tail trim and the inside diameter of the inlet is about 79mm. Do you reckon a heavy duty hose clamp will hold this onto the 180's tail pipe firm enough, or should I cut some slots in it?

The advert for the item stated it could be welded or bolted on, but there's no bolt holes I was expecting. I figured cutting slots might be easier to do than drilling holes, or maybe not?

It's 1mm stainless steel and the maximum slot length I could cut would be 30mm. My understanding is the outside diameter of my exhaust is 76mm and I measured this about the same roughly.


----------



## jamman (May 6, 2002)

As its a 180 flammable glue will be fine.

But... failing that

A local garage will weld it on for £25ish I would think as its a quick job.


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Are you sure? I'm putting all that 180 out one exhaust instead of 225 into two. Araldite worked on my old bike's hot oil pipe!

Seriously though a heavy duty clamp is about £4, bolts I imagine similar cost. My nearest trusted garage is 20 miles down the road.


----------



## jamman (May 6, 2002)

I might have been joking about the flammable glue :wink:


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

It might still work. When the oil pipe to my intercooler went on my bike, it sprayed oil over the down pipes and caught fire. I was riding at the time, and spotted the smoke in my mirrors. I wrapped a beer can around it, with araldite and two hose clips.


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> Seriously though a heavy duty clamp is about £4, bolts I imagine similar cost. My nearest trusted garage is 20 miles down the road.


Is this a serious statement? So you'd rather save some money to bodge it on in the hope that it doesnt fall off and you lose it than take it all of 20 miles up the road and have it welded on properly so it looks right and doesnt come loose.

I dunno....the TT owners of today eh....


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Well it was sold as a bolt-on part. Surely this is relevant? 
It's a £26 part that I don't need to pay someone £25 to fit.


----------



## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Pugwash69 said:


> Well it was sold as a bolt-on part. Surely this is relevant?
> It's a £26 part that I don't need to pay someone £25 to fit.


 :roll: if the inside diameter is even a mm off other will sit squint and look like a dogs breakfast, get it welded stop being tight, I thought I was bad and I'm Scottish :wink:


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> Well it was sold as a bolt-on part. Surely this is relevant?
> It's a £26 part that I don't need to pay someone £25 to fit.


Perhaps its also relevant that it didnt come with any bolt on fixings?

Doesnt matter how much the part is.....if you havent got the tools or ability to fix it properly yourself then you need to go to someone who can.

Either way if you are just sliding it over the top of the old trim it's going to be a bodge anyway - the old one needs removing and the new one needs welding on properly.


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

L33JSA said:


> Pugwash69 said:
> 
> 
> > Well it was sold as a bolt-on part. Surely this is relevant?
> ...


I'm quite handy with both saws and drills and have both at home. :roll: Slotted or bolted. Those are the options I suggested might work as they seem to be the usual method apart from welding. I assumed the existing trim will need to be removed and have already had a good look at my car before buying the part to make sure I had access.

Has anyone done this job themselves without welding who can offer advice?


----------



## Lamb's TT (Apr 3, 2013)

Pugwash69 said:


> It might still work. When the oil pipe to my intercooler went on my bike, it sprayed oil over the down pipes and caught fire. I was riding at the time, and spotted the smoke in my mirrors. I wrapped a beer can around it, with araldite and two hose clips.


did you drink the beer first or use it to put the fire out?


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Luckily the fire went out when I stopped the engine, as the oil pressure to the intercooler was the only source of ignition.


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> as the oil pressure to the intercooler was the only source of ignition.


Did the bike have a turbo?


----------



## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

Lets see, you asked advice, people have given it to you "go get it welded by someone that will do it properly" you don't like the advice given so pretty much argue back saying you know what your doing.......

Pointless thread of the week contender :lol:


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Why do you say that? I have a bolt on exhaust trim and someone says I should get it welded. I asked if I could clamp it.

It seems I got advice I didn't ask for.


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> Why do you say that? I have a bolt on exhaust trim and someone says I should get it welded. I asked if I could clamp it.
> 
> It seems I got advice I didn't ask for.


You got a bolt on exhaust trim with no bolts....never mind the advice you didnt get....looks like you didnt get the product you asked for either.

Have you got a link to it?


----------



## GroverUK (Dec 2, 2010)

Again, not really the advice you were looking for but theres a as new looking 225 exhaust in ebay for £50. For a extra few bob you have been better off swaping the back box over. Much better job and overall improvement!


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I'd have had to replace my honeycomb single-outlet valance then, and unlike most people I like the single exit. What I'm trying to do is fit a 4" double-walled tip that fills the hole better and isn't 13 years old.

I don't have a product link to hand but I'll post a photo when I bolt or clamp it. I've asked the sellers to explain the bolt-on option and make sure I have been sent the right version.


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I'm watching your thread as I'd quite like to fit bigger tips to my 225. And if I can avoid dealing with any welders, all the better :lol:


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> What I'm trying to do is fit a 4" double-walled tip that fills the hole better


How big!!??? 4"? LOL! Sorry but that's going to look ridiculously chavvy especially if it hasnt been done properly and is just fitted to a standard exhaust system. It will look like you've reversed into Halfords.

I take it the back of this exhaust tip tapers back down to the same size as a standard TT exhaust tip because if it doesn't even get anywhere close to this size there's going to be a massive gap around the back of the tip.....please don't tell me you're thinking of filling in this gap with exhaust putty or sealant??

I take it you've got something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Inch-Round- ... 4abe35c93a


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Yes exactly like that one. :roll: 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0575786836

Are you still giving advice or fishing for a bite?


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Yeh still giving advice.......the inlet of that is 78mm ID - the standard exhaust pipe size is what.....2.5" OD so around 63mm - so you're going to have at the very least a 6mm gap that you will somehow have to fill or reduce in order for it to clamp down properly.

You'd have been best off going for something like this if you had to go 4" especially if you had no intention of welding it on properly

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Inch-Diamet ... 43b626e861

So my earlier advice still stands....get it welded on properly. Any decent place will be able to flare the original outlet on your exhaust so it matches up to what you are trying to weld on which would leave you with a much neater job.


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I like it, great price too. I fancy fitting 2 like that but in black. Is that around the size of Milltek/Blueflame/Scorpion etc ?


----------



## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

mullum said:


> I'm watching your thread as I'd quite like to fit bigger tips to my 225. And if I can avoid dealing with any welders, all the better :lol:


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

L33JSA said:


> Yeh still giving advice.......the inlet of that is 78mm ID - the standard exhaust pipe size is what.....2.5" OD so around 63mm - so you're going to have at the very least a 6mm gap that you will somehow have to fill or reduce in order for it to clamp down properly.


I've measured mine at 76mm OD. I just measured it again to make sure I'm not mad. Maybe the 180 has a single larger exit pipe? It's supposed to be 3"


----------



## Nathanho123 (Jul 25, 2012)

is it safe to say it again ??

that escalated quickly


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I had a reply from them today to say they can fit them with bolts when requested, so maybe I should have stated this. They've offered to replace mine with another with bolts if I return it so I'm sorted.
If you do order one, state you want bolts unless you want to double your costs and have it welded.


----------



## Peeunit (May 22, 2013)

The word "Universal" normally tends to mean "Universally DOESN'T fit anything" in my experience of buying stuff like this.
Then you have to go out and buy the proper thing that you should have in the first place.


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Peeunit said:


> The word "Universal" normally tends to mean "Universally DOESN'T fit anything" in my experience of buying stuff like this.
> Then you have to go out and buy the proper thing that you should have in the first place.


Which is what ?


----------



## Tyrer (Jul 4, 2013)

a custom exhaust made to fit the car.

Unfortunately 'trims' will always look poor due to not being central, being just an add on and generally not to the same standard as something build for the car in the first place, I get how some people see this as an option but i'd save my money for a good cat back or backbox even over a tail pipe.


----------



## Tbone (Jan 26, 2013)

is this a joke.......... exhaust trim????? what next neon lights :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

This is strange. The person who said 4" was too big clearly didn't know I have a 3" outlet already. I suspect so does everyone else. Someone else is waiting to see how it goes before they buy their own, and there's still some smart remarks about how chavvy, amateur and inadequate it will be.

I'm still awaiting the delivery of a 3" clamp, but might also feed a bolt through just to make sure I don't launch a chunk of metal at a car following me.

Can anyone confirm that clamping a bolt on exhaust will hold tight? (which is what I was asking originally)

I realise you're all entitled to your own opinion but don't you think sometimes better of posting them?


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

These no marks who chip in their negativity, notice how you don't recognise their nicks ?
Just lurker-haters who contribute nothing to the forum.


----------



## Tyrer (Jul 4, 2013)

I take it you will use a 'U' clamp?? This will hold as long as it sits flush onto the other piece your attaching it to will be fine, if not you will crush the trim - if that makes sense.

You could get a 'ring' to sit in-between if that makes sense to tighten up to.

Make sure when you cut the old pipe off you get the measurements correct so it sits nice and flush

There is a MK4 R32 owned by Dan Underwood who has just replaced his Miltek tips with the new GT100 versions he said getting the old tips off was the most awkward part.


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> The person who said 4" was too big clearly didn't know I have a 3" outlet already. I suspect so does everyone else.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that clamping a bolt on exhaust will hold tight? (which is what I was asking originally)
> 
> I realise you're all entitled to your own opinion but don't you think sometimes better of posting them?


I'll be honest......no I didn't have any idea that the standard sized tailpipe was 3". Although correct me if I'm wrong....they are inwardly rolled though so appear smaller. Also bear in mind that when you remove the old tip which I believe is probably rivoted on the pipe underneath will be slightly smaller.

Yes provided it clamped on PROPERLY and SECURELY it wont go anywhere.



mullum said:


> These no marks who chip in their negativity, notice how you don't recognise their nicks ?
> Just lurker-haters who contribute nothing to the forum.


I certainly hope you're not referring to me.... :roll:


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

L33JSA said:


> I certainly hope you're not referring to me.... :roll:


Certainly not ! You old timer you ! ;-)


----------



## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

L33JSA said:


> Pugwash69 said:
> 
> 
> > I take it you've got something like this...
> ...


That tip looks exactly the same as I choose when I had my exhaust made at Pipewerx


----------



## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

that " work of art " is far too nice to be stuck / hidden under the car,, could you not have run it along the sides,, or over the roof !!


----------



## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

roddy said:


> that " work of art " is far too nice to be stuck / hidden under the car,, could you not have run it along the sides,, or over the roof !!


I was planning on doing something fancy with some mirrors to help people get a better viewing of it when I am driving about. I then realised that it would not be very practical. There was also the possibility of my car burning to the ground once the suns rays hit the mirrors so decided against it and to just take the above pic instead... ..... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Tyrer said:


> Unfortunately 'trims' will always look poor due to not being central, being just an add on and generally not to the same standard as something build for the car in the first place


I've used a 3" U-clamp, £2.70 delivered very fast, ebay item 390504613500
This looks more centred than my original one!










Here's how I cut the original trim, for reference.


----------



## getshawty (Jul 20, 2013)

I did this same job on my gf's mr2 . I just had the old tip cut off and the new one welded on at powerflow.
What bike did you have with a turbo., iv only seen 1 before on bike night at mfn.


----------



## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

getshawty said:


> I did this same job on my gf's mr2 . I just had the old tip cut off and the new one welded on at powerflow.
> What bike did you have with a turbo., iv only seen 1 before on bike night at mfn.


Kawasake used to do 750 turbo


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

There's no turbo on my bike. Good old quad carb version.


----------



## aaron_tt (Sep 18, 2012)

To be fair that is a good job, can you see the exhaust clamp though from the rear?


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Looks smart, like I said I fancy a bit of this myself (although in black).
On eBay is the clamp ex76 ?


----------



## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Pugwash69 said:


> There's no turbo on my bike. Good old quad carb version.


It wont have had an intercooler then!!!

To be fair from that angle that tip looks good......whats it actually look like standing back behind the car though?


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

aaron_tt said:


> To be fair that is a good job, can you see the exhaust clamp though from the rear?


The clamp is narrower than the tip, and I drilled a 6mm hole and bolted it too this morning just to make sure it was going nowhere. I rotated the "U" clamp with the bolts at the top, as there's enough room to turn a spanner above it and it's hidden nicely.


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

L33JSA said:


> Pugwash69 said:
> 
> 
> > There's no turbo on my bike. Good old quad carb version.
> ...


I maybe used the wrong name for it then. It a cooler for the oil that comes from the engine, up behind the front wheel and returns to the sump. It's under pressure with the engine running.


----------



## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

thats an oil cooler mate


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

L33JSA said:


> To be fair from that angle that tip looks good......whats it actually look like standing back behind the car though?


Here's a photo from a bit further away. It's not easy to photograph in sunlight on my phone as it goes into shadow.


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

mullum said:


> Looks smart, like I said I fancy a bit of this myself (although in black).
> On eBay is the clamp ex76 ?


Yes. I slotted my trim four times so it would compress onto the slightly narrower 3" pipe too. Ideally you'd want trim slightly smaller than I bought.

Here's a dirty photo from underneath showing the ugly fitting. Idealists look away now.


----------



## Tyrer (Jul 4, 2013)

good idea to reverse mount the clamp - i imagined them hanging down.

have you exhaust pasted it up aswel?


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cheers, what did you use to cut the original tip, and what you mean by slotting ?


----------



## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

I used a junior hacksaw. It took quite some time! I cut slots along the length about 30mm in at four equally spaced points around the circumference. The sort of thing you see on clamp-on pipe adapters. I didn't use any paste. You can't see the bolt I added on those photos either.
My stepson later told me they have an exhaust cutter at work. Doh!


----------



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Ahh I understand what you mean now.
Cheers again.


----------



## aaron_tt (Sep 18, 2012)

Nice, fits well and is a very good looking tip may seriously consider doing this, nice one mate


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Pugwash69 said:


> Tyrer said:
> 
> 
> > Unfortunately 'trims' will always look poor due to not being central, being just an add on and generally not to the same standard as something build for the car in the first place
> ...


Do the trims need to be cut off or cn they be "unwelded"?


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

and would these fit when i remove the old tips?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-2-5-Inl ... Swyy5dGxHF

Cheers


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Measure the pipe out of the back box, I think it might be smaller than 2.5 inch but could be made to fit and weld on very easily.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Measure the pipe out of the back box, I think it might be smaller than 2.5 inch but could be made to fit and weld on very easily.


Ok, thanks. And cut the old ones off or can they be untackt rather than being cut off?

cheers


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

The original are attached with 2 short welds, just need a spot of grinding.
The other thing to think of is how far they will stick out. the back.
Can you not just have a look and measure them up?


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> The original are attached with 2 short welds, just need a spot of grinding.
> The other thing to think of is how far they will stick out. the back.
> Can you not just have a look and measure them up?


Yes of course I can, I was just looking for some advice on whats the best way to proccede. (I'm a neewby!) 

Many thanks


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> davebowk said:
> 
> 
> > The original are attached with 2 short welds, just need a spot of grinding.
> ...


Hi, I've measure the OD of the 225 back box twin pipes and I get it to about 3.3"! Does that sound about right? As I think somebody mentioned early in the post that it should be slightly less than 2.5"?

Cheers


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Also, I've had a quote to cut off the single back box and weld on the twin back box plus fitting it for £100-120, does that sound fair enough?

Cheers


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Hacksawcats said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > davebowk said:
> ...


Sorry that was me, without looking i thought it was 2.5" but it's not, and the shape of the outlet pipe makes it not easy to just attach new tips.
If you want to save money on the welding, there is just enough straight into the back box to use a 61mm id coupling, (Providing your new back box has at least 2" of straght on it) They are about £10 from Halfords or ebay


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

"Sorry that was me, without looking i thought it was 2.5" but it's not, and the shape of the outlet pipe makes it not easy to just attach new tips.
If you want to save money on the welding, there is just enough straight into the back box to use a 61mm id coupling, (Providing your new back box has at least 2" of straght on it) They are about £10 from Halfords or ebay"

HI Dave,

Sorry to be thick but 61mm ID Coupling? IS this to join the cut off twin back box to the existing exhaust? without the need to pay to have it welded? (please be gentle, as I've said, I'm new to all this!).


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

As per??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61mm-Exhaust ... 1124029542


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Have you got a bit of straight here on your new back box


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Hacksawcats said:


> As per??
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61mm-Exhaust ... 1124029542


This type is better https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-...314656?hash=item4acaff6360:g:lMQAAOSwcdRY934c

That one might actually do it but could tight to fit at first.
The next size up is 61 to 65 so check what size you need


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Have you got a bit of straight here on your new back box


Wow That ones in good nic!! Yes I think mines good (sorry you cant see the straight bit)


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > As per??
> ...


Ok, Good stuff, many thanks for your help again.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> davebowk said:
> 
> 
> > Hacksawcats said:
> ...


Sorry forgot to ask, so doesn't need any kind of sealer etc.?


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

That one might actually do it but could tight to fit at first.
The next size up is 61 to 65 so check what size you need[/quote]

Ok, Good stuff, many thanks for your help again.[/quote]

Sorry forgot to ask, so doesn't need any kind of sealer etc.?[/quote]

No harm in using some sealer especially if the pipes a bit rusty. Try it first.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> That one might actually do it but could tight to fit at first.
> The next size up is 61 to 65 so check what size you need


Ok, Good stuff, many thanks for your help again.[/quote]

Sorry forgot to ask, so doesn't need any kind of sealer etc.?[/quote]

No harm in using some sealer especially if the pipes a bit rusty. Try it first.[/quote]

Great, thanks for holding my hand (so to speak).


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> That one might actually do it but could tight to fit at first.
> The next size up is 61 to 65 so check what size you need


Ok, Good stuff, many thanks for your help again.[/quote]

Sorry forgot to ask, so doesn't need any kind of sealer etc.?[/quote]

No harm in using some sealer especially if the pipes a bit rusty. Try it first.[/quote]

HI Dave,

I've measured the pipes and I get the twin to measure 61mm diameter and the single pipe to measure 51mm daimeter. Does that sound about right?

Many Thanks


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Not going to be straight forward then.
you can either use one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcyc...585493?hash=item2ae4f06255:g:jbQAAOSwNANefwza
Weld it to to the back box then use a 51mm coupling

Or this, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-51mm-T...991394?hash=item42164d12e2:g:UtcAAOSwiuFejtZ~the 63mm end might go over the 61mm pipe with a couple of slits in it then clamp it with a standard type clamp and coupling the 51mm again
Or have it welded.
Whatever is easier for you.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

HI Dave, I've asked these people if they can make custom one: Thanks for the advice BTW,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250770528499 ... SIMPLEITEM


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Sorry, I meant this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-25-2-5-57m ... 0005.m1851


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

eh up guys, just been checking out the existing pipe on the car and have noticed that one of the hangers has come off completely half way down the exhaust on RHS and the rubber is missing from the LHS Hanger! So decided to change the pipe instead of the back box swap. Can Anyone confirm that this is the right part for the LHS hanger half way down the exhaust?? And on final thing: I'm right in saying that the reducer needs to be 65-55mm??

Many thanks


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Whoops::

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Rubb ... SwIgZd4Efy


----------



## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

Why not just fit the whole 225 cat back using a 65/55 reducer?

I'm also pretty sure later 225s did away with the front mount and that Ebay link is for a FWD car anyway.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

imartyn said:


> Why not just fit the whole 225 cat back using a 65/55 reducer?
> 
> I'm also pretty sure later 225s did away with the front mount and that Ebay link is for a FWD car anyway.


Thats what I'm doing! LOL. An mine is FWD (Quattro)! So will it fit?

Cheers


----------



## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

FWD as in Front Wheel Drive so no, it's not the right centre mount.

This may be helpful

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... 53-253085/


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

You don't need that mount, the 225 doesn't have it, or mine doesn't


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

imartyn said:


> FWD as in Front Wheel Drive so no, it's not the right centre mount.
> 
> This may be helpful
> 
> https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... 53-253085/


Hi Martn,

My bad on the FWD!

That's very informative thank you. So just to be clear my TT is a 2006 BVR 190 Roadster Quattro. The part I need is 11A. What I don't understand is: If there's a hanger for it, why not use it?

Regards


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Fitting a 65/55 reducer tomorrow, any one know if it needs to be torqued or just very tight? (just trying to do things right).

Thanks in advance


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hacksawcats said:


> Fitting a 65/55 reducer tomorrow, any one know if it needs to be torqued or just very tight? (just trying to do things right).
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi, If you have a torque wrench 25Nm will be fine, if not just tight.
Hoggy.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hoggy said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Fitting a 65/55 reducer tomorrow, any one know if it needs to be torqued or just very tight? (just trying to do things right).
> ...


Thanks Hoggy, your a star! Brilliant, Thank you!

Regards


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

All done, another one of the list! Thanks to everyone who contributed.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

mmm, thought I was! Are the exhaust tips supposed to me flush with the valance? Are these sticking out too much?









Many Thanks


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Your adapter might have added an inch or so to the total length. The original coupling the pipe ends would be together.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Your adapter might have added an inch or so to the total length. The original coupling the pipe ends would be together.


Hi Dave, So do I need to chop a bit more off?

Regards


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

my original pipes were sticking out too much but that was because the pipes were not butted up together from the backbox to the centre box pipe - you may need to get another sleeve as mine fell apart.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

StuartDB said:


> my original pipes were sticking out too much but that was because the pipes were not butted up together from the backbox to the centre box pipe - you may need to get another sleeve as mine fell apart.


Thanks for that, So they should be flush against the valance??

Regards


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

I set the tips protruding about 10mm when i made mine.

Your adapter is probably narrow in the middle i think, so the pipe ends probably don't butt up together


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> I set the tips protruding about 10mm when i made mine.
> 
> Your adapter is probably narrow in the middle i think, so the pipe ends probably don't butt up together


OK, Many thanks, I'll revisit it and see what can be done.Is it worth taking the adaptors off again and see if I can get the pipes to move up a bit? Or should I just cut a bit off the pipe on the back box? Strange thing is the hangers all sign to line up correctly.


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

I take it that adapter you got was for joining your cat section to the the new 225 cat back. The issue is probably there.
Or have you just attached the 225 back box?


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> I take it that adapter you got was for joining your cat section to the the new 225 cat back. The issue is probably there.
> Or have you just attached the 225 back box?


Adaptor to cat box 55m/65m


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Check if you have a gap in the adapter, if not shorten the pipe. You will just have to see how much you can lose without effecting the mounts too much.


----------



## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Check if you have a gap in the adapter, if not shorten the pipe. You will just have to see how much you can lose without effecting the mounts too much.


Cheers for that, will do.


----------

