# Desert Green Pearl TT Roadster Resto - First big drive & MAF g/s logging figure



## IPG3.6

Hi everyone! I have been around these forums for a while now mainly dabbling in the Mk2 section but I have been wanting to get back into the Mk1, original, design forward TT again. These are now becoming less and less common in the land Downunder and one happened to be presented my way.

I had been in touch with this owner a while back who was looking for help with getting his car back on the road - fast forward two years later and it still hasn't happened due to many factors. Throw in a pandemic and now the car is sitting as it is. Watch the video and you will see - it is very far from being whole again BUT given some detail, given some new parts here and there and given some this i believe this green machine can be restored back to it's glorious former self!

... or can it??

I"ll be posting up videos of all things that have to do with this Roadster project. So if you'd like to follow along please watch below to see what i've found and to see what happens for the future of this humble little barn find Desert Green Pearl Roadster. :mrgreen:






There's been a lot of love put into the green machine so here's a shortcut to it all. I'll keep this updated as i go along too. 

*Since day 1 the checklist includes:*

Rescueing the half pulled apart green TT roadster from the barn where it was stored
Repairing the (mostly) delaminated peeling rear glass & demister connections
Electricals test for interior and exterior hardware (where i try and figure out how to work FIS-Control but fail miserably)
Drivetrain check where after some digging about the Frankenturbo shows up!
Removed the cracked oil pan to check for internal engine damage - where i find the bent conrod and dead crankshaft thrust washer)
*Now the "big jobs" begin:*

Broken engine got removed
Replacement engine got put onto an engine stand for a good once over. The gearbox is also removed from the broken engine 
Stripped the replacment engine down in prep. for an overhaul
OpenEd up the replacement engine for a once over (thank goodness all looks in order)
Installed forged conrods and new conrod bearings
Installed the cleaned up replacement cylinder head onto the forged engine block and installing a new timing belt
Replaced the infamour 1.8t half moon seal, rear main seal and other important gaskets "while i'm here"
Installed the go fast bits - hybrid turbo, stage 2 clutch and gearbox AND reinstalling the engine back into where it belongs!
Replaced the engine dogbone with a DIY polybush kit and bleeding the clutch
Repairing commonly damaged coilpack plugs and doing the injector wire tuck mod
Finally get to start the replaced engine - although it didn't go so well
Troubleshooting the overheating 1.8t engine
*Moving outside of the engine bay:*

Sorting out the suspension - removing rear springs


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## Stustt

IPG3.6 said:


> Hi everyone! I have been around these forums for a while now mainly dabbling in the Mk2 section but I have been wanting to get back into the Mk1, original, design forward TT again. These are now becoming less and less common in the land Downunder and one happened to be presented my way.
> 
> I had been in touch with this owner a while back who was looking for help with getting his car back on the road - fast forward two years later and it still hasn't happened due to many factors. Throw in a pandemic and now the car is sitting as it is. Watch the video and you will see - it is very far from being whole again BUT given some detail, given some new parts here and there and given some this i believe this green machine can be restored back to it's glorious former self!
> 
> ... or can it??
> 
> I"ll be posting up videos of all things that have to do with this Roadster project. So if you'd like to follow along please watch below to see what i've found and to see what happens for the future of this humble little barn find Desert Green Pearl Roadster. :mrgreen:


What can I say, it's a shed ! Your a braver man than me ! Depends on the price you paid and how much your prepared to spend.
Nice rare colour. Here in the UK it would probably be a donor car but if their valuable over there guess it's worth it.
A good example up and running here would be worth around £3000. Looks like yours is going to cost a lot more. If the roof isn't working you could spend nearly that getting it working and repaired.
Enjoyed the video and look forward to the next one.


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## GARAGE HERMIT

if you have the time/money/expertise go for it, it will keep you out of the pub anyway,, good luck with it,


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## IPG3.6

Stustt said:


> What can I say, it's a shed ! Your a braver man than me ! Depends on the price you paid and how much your prepared to spend.
> Nice rare colour. Here in the UK it would probably be a donor car but if their valuable over there guess it's worth it.
> A good example up and running here would be worth around £3000. Looks like yours is going to cost a lot more. If the roof isn't working you could spend nearly that getting it working and repaired.
> Enjoyed the video and look forward to the next one.


Prices here have skyrocketed (in general) since we have no more secondhand cars being imported due to super strict pandemic international travel bans. For example:








The cheapest one there is FWD, which makes sense but the rest are asking price of over $10kAUD.

Good thing is i haven't spent more than £3000 (roughly ~$5,500 AUD) plus doing a good eyeball as you can see in the video = all the parts are there. The roof - i'm not concerned - there weren't any errors for it and i trust when the owner said that it works. Will just need a repair which i will cover in an update video.



GARAGE HERMIT said:


> if you have the time/money/expertise go for it, it will keep you out of the pub anyway,, good luck with it,


I shall find the time and money :wink: It will mainly be my time. Tools and skills wise - i think i have that in the bag. There will definitely be a huge pub session at the end of the restomod! :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Stustt

IPG3.6 said:


> Stustt said:
> 
> 
> 
> What can I say, it's a shed ! Your a braver man than me ! Depends on the price you paid and how much your prepared to spend.
> Nice rare colour. Here in the UK it would probably be a donor car but if their valuable over there guess it's worth it.
> A good example up and running here would be worth around £3000. Looks like yours is going to cost a lot more. If the roof isn't working you could spend nearly that getting it working and repaired.
> Enjoyed the video and look forward to the next one.
> 
> 
> 
> Prices here have skyrocketed (in general) since we have no more secondhand cars being imported due to super strict pandemic international travel bans. For example:
> 
> The cheapest one there is FWD, which makes sense but the rest are asking price of over $10kAUD.
> 
> Good thing is i haven't spent more than £3000 (roughly ~$5,500 AUD) plus doing a good eyeball as you can see in the video = all the parts are there. The roof - i'm not concerned - there weren't any errors for it and i trust when the owner said that it works. Will just need a repair which i will cover in an update video.
> 
> 
> 
> GARAGE HERMIT said:
> 
> 
> 
> if you have the time/money/expertise go for it, it will keep you out of the pub anyway,, good luck with it,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I shall find the time and money :wink: It will mainly be my time. Tools and skills wise - i think i have that in the bag. There will definitely be a huge pub session at the end of the restomod! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

If you live that long ! Lol.
Saw it was nice and clean underneath, I wish you well and I get your predicament though personally I'd buy a big Holden !


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## StuartDB

You'll be surprised in what IanG will get done in a weekend? Check out his 'Not Another Nogaro' thread on ASN ~ stage 1, 2 (ALS, NLS = bendy rods), total rebuild with TFSI crank stroker build and big(medium) turbo, then r32 v6 engine re-build and fit into his s3 (due to moving home and not allowed modified cars Aussie REGO regs), along with the original DIY guides to fit and program a Colour MFA.

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/n ... ro.278975/


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## IPG3.6

Stustt said:


> ... personally I'd buy a big Holden !


I actually had a Holden Commodore VL back in the day! RB30 goodness. I wasn't anywhere into cars as I am now but all i remember is getting my P's and taking it out for my first drive - put my foot down and boy did she go! It was like a duckegg blue colour with silver accents. Prices of those have gone mental!



StuartDB said:


> You'll be surprised in what IanG will get done in a weekend? Check out his 'Not Another Nogaro' thread on ASN ~ stage 1, 2 (ALS, NLS = bendy rods), total rebuild with TFSI crank stroker build and big(medium) turbo, then r32 v6 engine re-build and fit into his s3 (due to moving home and not allowed modified cars Aussie REGO regs), along with the original DIY guides to fit and program a Colour MFA.
> 
> https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/n ... ro.278975/


Bringing up my past demons :twisted: StuartDB.
I have learnt so much since then and I just can't stand to see these cars going to waste. There is an incredibly frustrating issue with the NSW government where they tend to write off cars (so that they're no longer legally able to be registered) when all you would need is a replacement bumper bar. Luckily the Desert Green Pearl TT has no underlying notifications attached to it - yet the owner has just not been able to get anything shifted since 2019.

Enter me...


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## IPG3.6

Stustt said:


> If you live that long ! Lol.
> Saw it was nice and clean underneath, I wish you well and I get your predicament ...


I'll just put this past project here which started out as a 1.8t Roadster.

Audi TT 8N Roadster Convertible 1.8t to 3.2 swap






So I am no stranger to the platform :wink:


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## IPG3.6

H'Audi!

After months of lockdowns, a couple new Corona variants, job changes' travel restrictions, TP going out of stock, supermarket shelves low on stock... And whatever else you can throw into pandemic life the Desert Green Pearl roadster has been acquired and in good hands!

Definitely a good restoration job ahead of me here. The original post shows a video the first meet and greet with this barn find TT - yesterday it saw all four wheels back on the ground to be transported to it's new home. I'll post some pics for now but will have a video update soon!









Ahh yes I remember. That broken engine thing!









Front clip on. 









Out in full sun and fresh Aussie air! Just a tad dusty 🤣









Sorting out the winch. 









Strapped in for it's first trip out on the road since 2019. 💚


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## Radar

I look forward to the updates! Desert green is a great color combination and not too common in the US and I love the original MK1 design. What you are attempting is WAY beyond my mechanical skills....good luck with the project!


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## IPG3.6

Radar said:


> I look forward to the updates! Desert green is a great color combination and not too common in the US and I love the original MK1 design. What you are attempting is WAY beyond my mechanical skills....good luck with the project!


I also really love the colour too - agreed it's a rarer one to have! It's my 3rd mk1 TT (and probably the 5th of a 1.8t flavour car) so i am well versed in the motors and undercarriage stuff - but only my 2nd Roadster. So it's all the convertible specific stuff that'll probbaly be most challenging for me.

Want to see how we went hauling the Desert Green Pearl TT back home?


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## IPG3.6

As you saw in the above video the rear window has delaminated so that was my immediate concern.
The earlier you catch this the better but on my Desert Green Pearl baby it was half off and no longer attached from the top left corner to the bottom left corner. I feel that is a pretty bad situation given that the corner are hard to get right let alone having so much if the glass peeled away.

Never fear though - it is definitely repairable with the right equipment.
Next video to show the repair of a peeling back window glass on the green roadster. Watch this space!


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## IPG3.6

Hey all! I've succesfully repaired the roadster delaminating rear glass windscreen problem and I must say it actually isn't that difficult to do once you know how everything needs to come together. Thre's defintiely no need to use cushions, duvets or beach balls etc. like i've seen in other posts. I've found a simple solution by using a toolbox to push the glass up plus the clamps you see in the video below! hahaha

All of the parts should be readily available and best of all this is such a money saver VS buying a new roof and doing a full roof replacement.

Here's my detailed repair DIY guide video for when your convertible rear window glass is peeling off. I also include re-connection of the rear window demister wires where both sides were broken in my car . My peeling rear glass was actually in very bad condition so it's best to catch it before it gets anywhere near to half way off like mine. Hopefully you only have a small section peeling off which will make the repair much less involved than the barn find TT's. If yours is just as bad (or worse) the information below should be quite helpful.






Steps:
0:00 Intro
1:45 Broken demister wiring plugs
3:40 Tools and kit overview
4:33 Cleaning up and prepping the glass surface
6:34 Raising the dropped glass
7:13 How to use the convertible repair suction cups
8:25 Applying single step primer
8:49 Applying the adhesive (3M window-weld)
9:25 Applying the clamps
11:38 Suction cup clamps removal
12:00 Cleaning up excess glue
12:36 Leak testing
14:26 Convertible roof testing
15:18 Repairing demister connections


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## IPG3.6

I think it's safe to say that this sump is FUBAR! 😥


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## IPG3.6

Hey everyone. Here's the next update with the barn find Desert Green Pearl Audi TT. I don't recall checking everything properly when it came to the electrics ... And we know that electrics can be a major problem with this gen now they're getting on.

I check things off AND I check some of the big ticket items like the roof and wind deflector / wind scarf. What works? What doesn't work? What did I miss?

Also check out the bonus instrument cluster kit! So good!


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## IPG3.6

Further investigations on the barn find's original engine shows there's a LOT of metal where there shouldn't be. Removing the oil sump baffle tray reveals this...
This is the surface that faces the crankshaft. Lots of shiny bits! (where you don't want them). Maybe bearings had failed... What else could this be?









I've also checked out the pick up but it doesn't seem too bad, what do you think?









This poor engine! I will have the next update soon to show the removal of the oil pan to check things like the 1.8t oil pickup pipe and an overview of the components you'll see once the bottom end is opened.


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## StuartDB

There's quite a few tik-tokkers posting exactly the same videos ..

They remind me of #GetStuffed circa 1988-1990


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## IPG3.6

LOL what??? Must be a British thing 🤣


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## StuartDB

I wasn't comparing your videos, to 2am 5 minute cooking shows - just the vlogging fashion.


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## IPG3.6

Well this is fun! I had a fellow TT fan come over to pick up his ColourMFA ... we had a little chat outside my building then came out to show him my TT 3.6... then we were greet by THIS!!!










What a super impressive built and it's built for purpose. This Mk1 gets down and dirty going offroad yet it's built with finesse. Not only is the offroad feel all of what you can see here but underneath are sheets of thick aluminium for bash plates. Interior was also impressive and will be completed shortly with ColourMFA for all the tech at his fingertips. I really hope to see this TT around again!


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## IPG3.6

Next update! The car's electricals seem mostly OK so i'm happy to move on. In this next step i get down under the car to triple check all of the mechanicals - running gear, suspension, the turbo (where there's a LOVELY surprise), Haldex is all given the once over.

Finally, removal of the front clip is detailed in preparation to remove the engine.






Since pretty much all of the wiring loom has been disconnected, front bumper already removed and fluids drained the front clip removal was very quick. I like to remove it all as one assembly which helps make things super simple and then you just store that assembly as one.

It was very fortunate that the sale came with a spare engine. I've already ordered a timing belt kit for it and some other considerations may be required to make this car run as best as possible!


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## IPG3.6

Digging into thigs a little deeper with the DGP Roadster - i really wanted to see what the heck might've happened to this engine so I get under the car to crack open (hahaha that's already happened but you know what i mean) the sump and take it off for a better view of the bottom end.

One thing i've learnt from breaking a 1.8t before is that you can inspect the alignment of the rod's small end to check if something's gone awry. Removing the sump is relatively simple and i was lucky to have "the tricky bolts" at the gearbox end missing from the sump. Once it was off... boy oh boy! The mess and the poor engine. This car really needs some love!

See how to remove the 1.8t oil pan (or sump) and inspect the connecting rods if you suspect a type of internal failure. Hopefully yours don't turn out anywhere near as bent as what's in the video thumbnail !


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## davebowk

Did you not see the crank main side thrust bearing had spun at 5.51 on the vid.


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## IPG3.6

davebowk said:


> Did you not see the crank main side thrust bearing had spun at 5.51 on the vid.


Ooohhhh I did not!!! Great spotting I need to check...


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## desertstorm

I suspect that you will find the engine has been driven for a while with no oil and that the bearings have picked up . This is the small specs of silver you can see.
You can undo the bearing caps on the con rods easily to check the shells and the state of the big ends.
Mains bearing cap bolts should be replaced if those are undone but if the big ends have picked up the mains will be no better.
Also the cam journals in the head can score quite quickly due to low oil pressure.


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## StuartDB

What's the deal with modifications Ian? Are you still in the city so have to be stock or NA V6?

Wouldn't it be cheaper easier to check the cams for signs of oil starvation? Then just start moving the ancillaries onto your spare engine?


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## IPG3.6

davebowk said:


> Did you not see the crank main side thrust bearing had spun at 5.51 on the vid.


Hehe you are so right! I had a quick look under and lo and behold. This thrust washer is chilling out.... So loose!
See below - that little angled bit - that's the tang that keeps the washer in the side of the bearing cap. It shouldn't be hanging out that low. Great spotting!!!

















Which makes me suspect just as @desertstorm stated some oil starvation occured. I'll be leaving the investigations on this block for now and moving forward. Not going to crack open the cam cover etc. All good. Will be used for spares if required.




StuartDB said:


> What's the deal with modifications Ian? Are you still in the city so have to be stock or NA V6?


 hehehe you have read me already yes I will stay turbo... We'll leave it at that for now.
Luckily this spare engine is ready to refresh (supposedly has 70k km) and I am eager to crack on. I've disconnected the propshaft and (30mm nut style) driveshafts all that's left now is the exhaust and mounts and the broken engine /box can come out.









I thought that the driveshafts with the 30mm nuts were pre 01 TT but it seems that isn't so. I was surprised to have these on here which I battled to remove. They were stuck in there tight! I'm hoping to source the bolt style ones and run them instead. Do we know if they're a direct swap?


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## desertstorm

The hubs are different between nut and bolt type driveshafts. You will have to change these as well if you decide to change the drivesahfts.


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## IPG3.6

Ah thanks for that reminder. I looked into it a little deeper and the two part numbers are 

8N0 407 613 A or B
These are meant to be the early, 30mm nut type hubs. Notice the deep recess where the nut sits. 









And

8N0 407 613 C
These are meant to be the later, bolt, type and what I expected to have on the barn find roadster. Notice the inner raised ring.









Why they decided to change things up... Who knows! I only know the bolt type driveshafts are easier to remove than the nut type so I think I will convert.


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## desertstorm

I swapped the driveshafts on my 2001 TT to get away from nut type shafts to the newer bolt type. Bought a pair of secondhand hubs off fleabay and got some new wheel bearings fitted.
I had a nut fail on a track day, not good when you are breaking hard around 90mph and the car steers to the left.
Karls Track day TT, 153mph on a track day!!. Goodbye Mr GT3  . | Page 32 | Audi TT Forum


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## IPG3.6

desertstorm said:


> I swapped the driveshafts on my 2001 TT to get away from nut type shafts to the newer bolt type. Bought a pair of secondhand hubs off fleabay and got some new wheel bearings fitted.
> I had a nut fail on a track day, not good when you are breaking hard around 90mph and the car steers to the left.
> Karls Track day TT, 153mph on a track day!!. Goodbye Mr GT3  . | Page 32 | Audi TT Forum
> 
> View attachment 484410


Holy [email protected]¶ that's not fun!!! Glad that didn't end up in a much bigger disaster. 

Another great reason to swap for the bolt type hub! Not only are they difficult to work with but prone to snapping! Eeek!


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## IPG3.6

ColourMFA is just one of those mods you cannot go past! 
If you want to save some money and undertake the installation DIY style here's a complete end to end guide on colourMFA installation. The main thing is just to remember to take your time, watch and read instruction over and over again so it makes sense, measure twice and cut once and you will end up with one of the best mods we can do to our Audi TT's.

Hopefully this video can help you visualise the process before jumping in. It takes a while to install but well worth it!


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## silverbug

I love my ColorMFA, glad I had it done professionally as all that work is way beyond my capabilities .
I’m imagining that the units themselves will now be almost impossible to obtain?
I know they’re made in batches to order but since they come from Russia can’t imagine any being available for a very long time……


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## IPG3.6

Yeah I know. It's (currently) such a shame what is going on so, yes, I agree that it might be difficult in obtaining these any time in the near future. Although the supplier known as "autopilot" hasn't announced they will be stopping production. I'll take that as a silver lining and keep my 🤞

For those lucky enough to have gotten hold of one or found someone who no longer requires their kit - install it right away! 

I'm sure you'll agree with me @silverbug that this display is not only something that looks nice but an awesome tool so you know exactly what's going on with the TT. I know my ColourMFA has gotten me out of a pickle or two very quickly because of the built in diagnostics feature.


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## silverbug

Yes the ColorMFA is an awesome piece of kit, it has more functions than I care to remember  and is one of the best things I’ve done to the car.
Can’t recommend it enough.


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## IPG3.6

Oh this is familiar place!
One broken 1.8t out and the replacement up on the stand.









No, I have not yet cleaned anything just yet! Firewall looking pretty shiny.









Bevel box off as this gearbox setup will be imported over to the replacement engine.









How to remove engine video coming soon! 

VIDEO: Quick squiz around this corner of the garage.


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## IPG3.6

Anyone know why the bevel box bracket is this style? Maybe it's a roadster thing? 

I recall them being a black metal piece and not like this chunky piece I've encountered.


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## silverbug

It appears that the 02M409905 bracket is used on certain TT models up to 2002, appears to depend on which gearbox code is fitted……








My own 2003 roadster has an FMN code gearbox so has the 02M409903 black metal bracket…..


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## IPG3.6

Ah great info @silverbug 

Hmmm wonder what the reason is for the 2 types.? 

Anyway this version is annoying because you can't just simply remove it once unbolted like the black one. I guess that's possibly why they made the black version which is much more slimline than this and passes the driveshaft cup easily for removal.


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## silverbug

IPG3.6 said:


> Ah great info @silverbug
> 
> Hmmm wonder what the reason is for the 2 types.?
> 
> Anyway this version is annoying because you can't just simply remove it once unbolted like the black one. I guess that's possibly why they made the black version which is much more slimline than this and passes the driveshaft cup easily for removal.


In my experience Audi just love to complicate things so who knows the real reason for the different bracket types.


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## StuartDB

Probably from when the repair guides are created. Like setting a timing belt change 4 years / 60k for some cars that need the engine out to do it....


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## IPG3.6

StuartDB said:


> 4 years / 60k for some cars that need the engine out to do it....


This would be painful.


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## Spliffy

I seem to recal the Fiat coupe was an engine out for cambelt contender 

Nick


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## IPG3.6

Viewing the block - head off. Assessing channels. Standing on the turbo side.










I've forgotten how these should be but as I was trying to clear out the coolant channels I came across this funky spot. *Is it normal to be like that? (Circled red below)*

I was trying to unclog it but stopped just in case it's meant to be closed off.


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## IPG3.6

_bump_ Anyone?


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## darylw357

Think it's a mark from the gasket, you can faintly see it on mine here.


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## IPG3.6

Awesome thanks for the reply!

Good to know that it's nothing to worry about and not to force a hole though it..

Thankyou!


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## IPG3.6

It's been a while and there has been excellent progress. Videos on this to come soon.

I think i've been somewhat sheltered when it comes to earlier specced cars because this was the first time i had been the "nut type" driveshafts in any A4 platform car i've ever had. All the previous cars i've had (S3, TT, R32) came with the bolt type. Now because i'm more used to the bolt type i ended up absolutely ruining the nut type driveshaft end when i was trying to hammer out the driveshaft. I didn't know they were so hard to remove! It took me a good 15-20 minutes of hard hammering each side to remove them ( i feel like that's not right?)









I also damaged the balljoint studs while removing it from the arm (oops) so the Swag kit is coming to the rescue.









As the nutt type hub is such a pain compared to the bolt type where you can thread the bolt on and hit it to push the driveshaft out from the hub I've converted the hub over to the bolt type hub.

Loading up the slide hammer.









Somehow i got a clean removal! The inner race didn't come with the nut type hub - on BOTH sides! Not sure if that's a good thing or not but i'll service these anyway.


















Getting the bearing tool set up to push the used ones out. A rattle gun makes this job super quick.









Once the tool comes loose from the hub knuckle you know the bearing is out. On inspection this bearing seemed like it was recently serviced.









Not sure why you get so many nuts and bolts in this replacement kit but i'm not complaining (only going to be using the bearing, circlip and driveshaft end bolt - that leaves me with 3 extra nylock nuts).


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## IPG3.6

Once the bearing is in and the circlip (of death) is installed the bolt type hub can be pressed in. A quick rejig of the bearing puller tool allows it to push the hub in without exploding the the newly installed bearing.









Done! New nut type hub installed. The main difference being the central snout which is missing on the nut type hub.









Funny thing happened when i took the tools apart - the snout actually came off! This made me double take as i thought i'd just installed a new nut type hub. This piece doesn't fit into the nut type hub though. All i needed to do was push it back into the hub and give it a couple of love taps with a hammer.
















All the old bits that came out. The silver bearing was seized. I might keep the red bearing as sparesies and the nut type hubs just in case. The rest is going in the bin.









For some reason the bolt type driveshafts are difficult to source down here so i ordered some off eBay from the UK.

Looking forwad to sharing the next major engine updates soon!


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## IPG3.6

Time to get serious with this engine. I've been able to spend some quality time with th Desert Green Pearl Roadster where the removal of the poor broken engine is the first major step in the revival process.











With the engine out I can have a REALLY good look at everything.









Video for the 1.8t engine removal process will be posted soon.


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## StuartDB

Good work Ian....


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## IPG3.6

Thanks @StuartDB! Think this is the 6th... or maybe more.... engine pull i've done on this platform. lol (i need to get a life!)

Here's a video guide for removing the engine from the TT Mk1. Now i don't cover removing the front bumper, rad support, etc etc as that was already done for me (how convenient!) however the rest of the process can still be daunting.

I want to show you that it's not TOO difficult and that if you take your time and have the right equipment that it can be done with relative ease AND with one person too. I mean this stuff is always more fun with friends but sometimes you just gotta smash it out.





Enjoy!


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## IPG3.6

I'm finding out more and more as I get really stuck into things. Clutch in the spare engine is questionable...









Condition of the bevel box and turbo bits ... Seems ok but you can be the judge. 









Gearbox from the original engine is off and it requires a clean. 









Heaps more to see and observe when mounting and dismantling the Audi TT 1.8t engine and gearbox in the next video.


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## IPG3.6

Getting into the swing of things now the engine is out. This time it's time to remove the clutch from the replacement engine to enable it to mount onto an engine stand. I detail how that's done then move onto the old engine's components. Stripping off the gearbox, turbo and clutch kit (which brings ANOTHER surprise!).

Gotta love a good surprise 🙌


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## IPG3.6

Time to get stripping - that's stripping down the now mounted up 1.8t engine block and making sure to gather all the things I'll need to keep for the rebuild. 

I find this part REALLY cool as you get to understand how everything is put together and once it's all apart you can see that the engine itself isn't actually that big at all. Here are some pics and will have an update video soon!! 

Gotta start somewhere. Removing some of the plastic trim and mounts allows for easy removal of engine loom. My loom is buggered  I don't know why people can be so lazy sometimes! 









There goes the inlet manifold. 









Before removing the timing belt you must ensure timing is set to TDC. 









Moving to the hot side of the engine









Giving the 1.8t a quick clean cuz who like to work on a dirty engine ?! Not me. 👌


----------



## IPG3.6

Removing all the bits and pieces from the block is quite therapeutic. What's even better is once all of the ancillaries are removed you're able to give the engine a REALLY good clean. 

I also set the timing to top dead centre in preparation to remove the head for some internal work.
Video update below


----------



## IPG3.6

Yay parts! Gotta love it when the rest of your kit comes. I'm pretty sure I have 95% of everything required for the rebuild.


----------



## IPG3.6

Next update - removing the sump is simple enough and I give it a clean. Only to find that it's broken 😥 not sure how that happened but I reckon it's when the helicoiling was done.

Then spinning the engine around I also remove the cam cover and give that a clean. This time it's more of a pleasant surprise as the heads all relatively straight. Let me know what you think?


----------



## IPG3.6

More bits coming through for the rebuild. 

I got the allow coolant fittings kit from Creation Motorsports so that should be great for longevity and ordered a lower opening temp thermostat Vs the original 87 C one which should help with the hybrid turbo setup. The original owner did mention engine temps would rise on spirited drives. 

Wondering if anyone else with a hybrid has observed this rise in temperate? 

Hopefully this spec thermostat aids to relieve the creeping temp issue.









I feel like this kit comes with way too many gasket options hahaha


----------



## StuartDB

See if you can fit all of the gaskets  - I did wonder if they were for other things that might need to be commonly removed.

In reality, a hybrid being run conservatively would generate less heat compared to stock - but let's face it.. they can manage > 40psi  even though it has nowhere to go 

What hybrid are you going for?


----------



## IPG3.6

Hahaha I'll let you know how I get on with all the gaskets method 😅

For the turbo well this guy came with the barn find

























Will be good to know how much boost its tune to once all back together. Should be a fun little thing to have in there 😉


----------



## IPG3.6

In addition to turbo porn i'm now finding all these little things that are not the greatest. Example #1









That rubber pipe in the middle - should be a long metal one and the hose for the thermostat housing's been lazily cut off.









Luckily the original engine's setup is mostly OEM so i needed to grab that and transfer it over.

Of course in true Audi fashion to get to the thing you need first you must remove a billion other parts.









These needed to come off anyway to transfer over to the replacement's setup.









Example #2 the hacked up parts which i'll keep what i can (which is not much) and bin the rest.









Time to order a few gasksets to help seal up the block

N90467301 block breather elbow o ring
N90365302 hard coolant pipe into block o ring
I'm sure there will be many more that i'll need along the way.


----------



## IPG3.6

Now we know hybrids have tendancy to bend rods - in the case of the previous owner i think several things happened that resulted in a slightly bent rod. To mitigate this from happening i'm installing the well known but controversial MaxPeeding rods. I get up close and personal with the rods to show super clear footage of their quality along with detailing the installation.

Those damn wrist pin lock wires are the worst!


----------



## IPG3.6

It's coing to the stage where all of the "big jobs" and "big parts" have been taken care of and am coming across little things that need to be done. The car came with coilovers but the previous owner hadn't upgraded the top mounts. These will really help to keep everything in check and give that "connected" steering feel.

The wee gasket up top is for the turbo drain line to the oil sump. This means TURBO IS NEARLY READY TO BE BOLTED ON!










So far this is how everything is. Many things still in the works...


----------



## IPG3.6

Another bonus - after googling these injectors I see they're 550cc and e85 friendly.


----------



## fire88

good work, enjoy it.


----------



## StuartDB

Yeah, I have 117s too... it'll be interesting to see if they've correctly been mapped, for voltages, flowrate and sizing etc....


----------



## desertstorm

Maxspeeding rods with 20mm pin seem to be OK for most people sticking under 450-500bhp. The 19mm pin rods they do are no good as they are incorrectly sized. What water pump are you using?. Just don't get one with pressed steel impellor those just don't give the same flow as an OE type moulded plastic impellor. 
The lower 81 degree stat helps power a little but doesn't really help the engine to stop overheating as the 81 and 87 degree stat will both be fully open by the time the engine gets to 100 degrees and it looks to be overheating.
Lots of gunky red sealer on the injector O rings. I might look to replace those if they aren't sealing.


----------



## IPG3.6

fire88 said:


> good work, enjoy it.


Fingers crossed I can whenbits all assembled! 



StuartDB said:


> Yeah, I have 117s too... it'll be interesting to see if they've correctly been mapped, for voltages, flowrate and sizing etc....


Yeah they should be. The setup was tuned by a well known tuner here in Oz and was reportedly running very nicely by the pre seevious owner. 



desertstorm said:


> 20mm pin seem to be OK for most people sticking under 450-500bhp


That's plenty for the hybrid setup then!



desertstorm said:


> The 19mm pin rods they do are no good as they are incorrectly sized


Is this a thing ? What about them is wrong? Mines a BAM so definitely 20mm wrist pins also inmeber knew about the water flow rate thing. 

I think another big restriction is the twin intercooler setup. Such tiny volume on the orig ok nal kitwould definitely be holding back the power figures.


----------



## IPG3.6

Making really good progress with the rebuild!

In this video update the 1.8t Audi TT head is reinstalled back onto the upgraded block using a Victor Reinz head gasket kit. I also tackle doing the (dreaded) 1.8t timing belt service using a Gates comprehensive kit that included a water pump.


----------



## IPG3.6

A major part of "the incident" leading to the TT getting stored in a barn was the engine mount bolts weren't done up properly causing the bolt to snap...









Only one way to ensure this doesn't happen again by getting new bolts. You can clearly see the length difference between the two. Left is new - right has already been torqued to yield (and is longer).

















To get it right the main recommendation is to replace the bolts. Torque to 60Nm + 90 degrees.

(This is the gearbox mount but I've done all 4)
@60Nm









+90 degrees 









Progress is plodding along at a steady pace 👌


----------



## silverbug

You are far braver than I!
I found the above post by John-H when doing mine a few years ago and have done the TT and a few cars in my family using the 85Nm figure with no problems.
Think I would have had a nervous breakdown before finishing the 90 degrees had I done the 60Nm + 1/4 turn!


----------



## TT'sRevenge

Oooh Frankenturbo, nice. What kind of power does a 1.8T make with that anyway?

As for the mounts--yeah crossthreaded bolts no doubt? Samcrac had a wonderful time dealing with those if you watch his older Mk1 videos... Also these things can crossthread super easy even on newer cars (like Mk2)--have to be real careful when you're putting them in.

Edit: Also in the timing belt video you mention using the 2.0T tensioner--is there a different belt as well in that case? I dunno though I think the 1.8T setup is better since that tensioner it's kind of tough to know if you set it right. I'm still paranoid about mine, though it has been fine for a year, heh.


----------



## IPG3.6

silverbug said:


> 85Nm figure with no problems.
> Think I would have had a nervous breakdown before finishing the 90 degrees had I done the 65Nm + 1/4 turn!


DAMMIT i wish i knew this 85Nm thing hahahha Oh well it's done now. I do have experienced in these snapping though - and it's only ever happened on re-used bolts. It's not fun when you're tightning and all of you sudden you hear the CRACK and that tightening feel turns very, VERY loose 🥲 Have never had the issue with new bolts.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Oooh Frankenturbo, nice. What kind of power does a 1.8T make with that anyway?


I think with an OEM manifold it'll probbaly just be shy of 300bhp. Anything more than that i'll be super happy (or even close).



TT'sRevenge said:


> As for the mounts--yeah crossthreaded bolts no doubt? Samcrac had a wonderful time dealing with those if you watch his older Mk1 videos... Also these things can crossthread super easy even on newer cars (like Mk2)--have to be real careful when you're putting them in.


I know the cross threading issue occurs when the mounts don't line up "good enough" so then the bolts are being forced in all cock-eyed. How do i know? Been there, done that, and learned my lesson 😅 

My method for all the engine swaps i've done is to ensure the bolts *always* thread in *easily* by hand all the way down before using any tools on them. If they snag or tighten up before they lower into the thread before 1 complete turn i always back it out and re-adjust height, move the engine sideways tilt it and even wiggling the engine while threading the bolt in to ensure i don't cross thread. I cover aligning the engine in an upcoming video  



TT'sRevenge said:


> Edit: Also in the timing belt video you mention using the 2.0T tensioner--is there a different belt as well in that case?


Nope you use the same timing belt for 1.8t. It's just the tensioner setup that differs where you have to install a stud into the head. 









Here you can see it doesn't have the hydraulic tensioner to the left of the pulley. Instead you adjust the tension with an allen key and align a pointer to the "gap" in the unit.









See the little square nipple? That square needs to be aligned to a notch in the brown plastic - just above it - by using the allen key to rotate the alignment (might need click for the full res pic and zoom in). It's then secure with the nut on the end of the stud. It's easier this way because there's way more slack in the belt prior to tensioning.


----------



## TT'sRevenge

IPG3.6 said:


> My method for all the engine swaps i've done is to ensure the bolts *always* thread in *easily* by hand all the way down before using any tools on them. If they snag or tighten up before they lower into the thread before 1 complete turn i always back it out and re-adjust height, move the engine sideways tilt it and even wiggling the engine while threading the bolt in to ensure i don't cross thread. I cover aligning the engine in an upcoming video


Cool I will stay tuned for that!




IPG3.6 said:


> Nope you use the same timing belt for 1.8t. It's just the tensioner setup that differs where you have to install a stud into the head.


Ah I see--pretty interesting. I think the 1.8T belt is still different than the 2.0T though, right? Or are they actually the same belt?



IPG3.6 said:


> Here you can see it doesn't have the hydraulic tensioner to the left of the pulley. Instead you adjust the tension with an allen key and align a pointer to the "gap" in the unit.
> 
> 
> See the little square nipple? That square needs to be aligned to a notch in the brown plastic - just above it - by using the allen key to rotate the alignment (might need click for the full res pic and zoom in). It's then secure with the nut on the end of the stud. It's easier this way because there's way more slack in the belt prior to tensioning.


Yeah it sure is easy to put the belt on but setting the tensioner right, lol. I spun it around a few times and didn't really "get" what any of the descriptions (including the FSM instructions) meant. Eventually I thought, "okay I got it now!" in like a eureka moment, though later when the job was all done I heard about ppl's timing letting go, potentially because this was done wrong. So now I'm just all paranoid lol. But I don't think it's possible for the car to run fine for months afterward and have any problem with the way the timing tensioner was set--that really makes no sense. I'm sure I did it right, just second guessing haha.[/quote][/QUOTE]


----------



## IPG3.6

TT'sRevenge said:


> I think the 1.8T belt is still different than the 2.0T though, right? Or are they actually the same belt?


yeah they're different so:

1.8T 150 teeth
2.0 TFSI 148 teeth



TT'sRevenge said:


> Yeah it sure is easy to put the belt on but setting the tensioner right, lol. I spun it around a few times and didn't really "get" what any of the descriptions (including the FSM instructions) meant. Eventually I thought, "okay I got it now!" in like a eureka moment, though later when the job was all done I heard about ppl's timing letting go, potentially because this was done wrong. So now I'm just all paranoid lol. But I don't think it's possible for the car to run fine for months afterward and have any problem with the way the timing tensioner was set--that really makes no sense. I'm sure I did it right, just second guessing haha


Always a srtressful moment especially the first time installing one. It helps having an inspection mirror when doing th job in situ.Sounds like your installation is solid though - you'd know pretty quickly if it wasn't right.


----------



## silverbug

@ IPG3.6
Interesting that you’ve used the later-type tensioner.
Having done cam belt jobs on 3 TDIs in my family now that use that later-style tensioner I have to say that I prefer the piston-style item used on the 1.8T.
Perhaps the later style is more durable (I’ve no idea the reason for the change) but found the earlier type far easier to fit!
I believe a common reason for the later belts letting go (despite recent belt replacement) is down to the tensioner securing stud shearing off as a result of metal fatigue, which can occur if the stud isn’t fitted correctly.


----------



## IPG3.6

silverbug said:


> down to the tensioner securing stud shearing off as a result of metal fatigue, which can occur if the stud isn’t fitted correctly.


Yeah I have heard of this ... I guess it's important to always use the proper torque setting in the components and if in doubt. Remove and replace the stud. 

Filled up with engine oil today. Ooooooh yeah!


----------



## IPG3.6

It's good to finally have the engine sealed up and good to fill with oil! 

Here I replace all the gaksets and deal with the (dreaded) half moon seal replacement. 






_Real time update: gearbox and rear diff has had an oil service. I'm actually ready to test that the wiring look is hooked up correctly. At that point I'll turn the key to ignition and check for any engine codes. Not starting it just yet though. _


----------



## StuartDB

I can't be doing with video's but I'm glad you've made good progress.. the last engine photos looked great, with your manual timing solution... Will you need to adjust that during the 5 years?


----------



## IPG3.6

StuartDB said:


> the last engine photos looked great, with your manual timing solution... Will you need to adjust that during the 5 years?


Hey Stuart those pics with manual tensioner/orange block are from 5 years ago. I don't think it'd need a re adjustment in 5 years' time and you'd just follow regular timing intervals. 

The setup in the Desert Green Pearl TT is using the hydraulic tensioner setup 😊


----------



## silverbug

I can’t pretend that I manage to watch every video & fully digest every post that you make on this thread but I sure find it fascinating to see what you’re doing .


----------



## StuartDB

IPG3.6 said:


> Hey Stuart those pics with manual tensioner/orange block are from 5 years ago. I don't think it'd need a re adjustment in 5 years' time and you'd just follow regular timing intervals.
> 
> The setup in the Desert Green Pearl TT is using the hydraulic tensioner setup 😊


Arrhh, so that was on your S3.... I assumed you would copy the approach


----------



## IPG3.6

silverbug said:


> I can’t pretend that I manage to watch every video & fully digest every post that you make on this thread but I sure find it fascinating to see what you’re doing .


Thanks! Am just posting up the journey to getting this green TT back in the road. Every time I work on it the more excited I get!!! 

Hope you at least get something out of the posts ☺


----------



## IPG3.6

StuartDB said:


> Arrhh, so that was on your S3.... I assumed you would copy the approach


I'll be getting the manual tensioner setup somewhere along the lines. Just not with this one. 

My main aim is to get the barn find back onto the road asap, have some fun, then decide next steps. 

_Real time update: tested the wiring look today and cranked the engine over. So far so good! 🤞🤔🙌🤞👌🫶_


----------



## IPG3.6

AHhh gotta love finding things that completely stall your progress 

The previous owner had disconnected A LOT of things (not sure why). This made the engine bay look a lot "worse" than it actually was so i needed to spend time restoring many connections and fittings that aren't typically undone when removing the engine and gearbox.










Another bit of kit that came with the sale was a set of silicone coolant hoses. They're good quality but i found that i needed to trim pretty much each one as their lengths are incorrect which would lead to hose to engine bay components fouling each other. This took a while especially when trying to reuse the OEM hose clamps - in the end i ended up going with worm drive clamps.

















After testing out the first loom i actually decided to go back and use the spare loom. The original loom to the car had been cut at the section going toward the oil and speed sensor. So i hit the rewind button and removed the original harness and replaced it with the spare motor's one. I didn't realise that the *inlet air temp sensor *and *oil pressure sensor* came in two different plug shapes. Strange but a small hurdle as all i needed to do was swap these sensors around.









On scanning up it looks like the *n75 is kaput* 
- other than that, no errors! 🎉
(Apologies for potato cam pic, not sure what happened there - MAF in unplugged when i took this scan)








Oil pressure reading also shows everything within the engine seems in spec! yeessssss!









.... and then the stumbling block. Went to put the front on and the a/c system was fully disassembled with the receiver drier removed. Put that back on and went tobolt up the lower a/c connection and saw it wasn't lining up. There was no way that hose would twist in place to align that's when i noticed the top fitting had been bent. This meant that when fitting the top connection at the receiver drier the lower connection was rotated and the bottom fitting couldn't be inserted.

It's this connection at the top right of the radiator panel.









When i went to bend it straight this happened 😭









So now i need a replacement condensor before the front clip goes back on. I was really looking forward to getting coolant into the engine and getting it up to temperature too!









To make myself feel better i polybushed the front strut tops and dogbone. Thiswas relatively straightforward thanks to having coilovers installed.


----------



## davebowk

How do you get that information on the display?


----------



## mk1chopper

davebowk said:


> How do you get that information on the display?


Think he might have this fitted:FIS-Control Audi TT (8N, *please refer to note), £ 282.00
or has made one using something similar like this forum member did for the mk2:








Displaying Boost on the DIS


Finally got it working! It's been quite a journey. I'm using an Arduino (mega) and two CAN shields. The engine data (or data from any other ECU if you wanted) is read from the diagnostic bus in the same way that VCDS reads Measurement Blocks. The data is then displayed on the DIS by...




www.ttforum.co.uk





I'd like FIS control but seems a lot to spend just for extra display although it would mean no longer needing a boost gauge in the vent as you could use display option which is cool


----------



## StuartDB

The boost display in DIS via FIS is from the map sensor which (stock) has a limit of 2550mbar so only ~1.55bar (well 16mbar less than that unless the offset is updated in the map) which is about 22-23psi ... whereas an analogue boost gauge will show whatever the max is.... when had some mapping difficulties (1 bar actuator) it was > 35psi but I didn't know that until fitting an analogue gauge....


----------



## IPG3.6

davebowk said:


> How do you get that information on the display?


Lucky for me the car came with FIS-Control as @mk1chopper linked to. Think of it like ColourMFA but the gen1/pre ColourMFA version - however this support aftermarket sensors whereas ColourMFA doesn't.

I'll do a video on it once I am driving the car -shouldn't take too long as long as i can get a replacement condenser.



mk1chopper said:


> Think he might have this fitted:FIS-Control Audi TT (8N, *please refer to note), £ 282.00
> or has made one using something similar like this forum member did for the mk2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Displaying Boost on the DIS
> 
> 
> Finally got it working! It's been quite a journey. I'm using an Arduino (mega) and two CAN shields. The engine data (or data from any other ECU if you wanted) is read from the diagnostic bus in the same way that VCDS reads Measurement Blocks. The data is then displayed on the DIS by...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ttforum.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like FIS control but seems a lot to spend just for extra display although it would mean no longer needing a boost gauge in the vent as you could use display option which is cool


They come in SO handy - especially when something goes wrong, you get the frightful BLLEEEEPPP, and you can dig into diagnostics right there and then.



StuartDB said:


> when had some mapping difficulties (1 bar actuator) it was > 35psi but I didn't know that until fitting an analogue gauge....


I'll make a mental note and check if the FIS gauge is maxing out. There were some extra ports on the DV piping so they might come in handy if i need the extra range. Looks like there might've been one on there before.


----------



## StuartDB

Where are those extra T'd pipes going too?

Also there's no clamps on some of them?


----------



## IPG3.6

Your guess is as good as mine. LOL I didn't notice them as they were hooked up to the TIP which has been stored in the boot this whole time. They're both blocked off though so i think (for now) i'll keep them as is... maybe change the blue hose for black hose so they're not as obvious as they might come helpful for an analogue boost gauge if the FIS control gauge isn't adequate.



StuartDB said:


> Also there's no clamps on some of them?


oh yeah good spot! i'll clamp/tie those ones on.

Also: how many ports are there meant to be on the intake pipe? Mine is a 3" TIP and has 5.... i think it's one too many?


----------



## StuartDB

Is the extra one for cars with ESP?

For a BAM and AMK
MAF
TURBO
PUCK
DV
N75
SOME EXTRA PIPE WITH A LONG LEDGED PIPE COMING FROM THE FIRE-WALL


----------



## IPG3.6

I though all quattros have ESP?



StuartDB said:


> 1 MAF
> 2 TURBO
> 3 PUCK
> 4 DV
> 5 N75
> 6 SOME EXTRA PIPE WITH A LONG LEDGED PIPE COMING FROM THE FIRE-WALL


Using these numbers you can see there's definitely an extra port (blocked off) 


















So that's for ESP? Wonder where the other end of that would go?


----------



## davebowk

I don't have that extra port and have ESP


----------



## mk1chopper

Could it be for models with secondary air pumps that would normally have a pipe back to the air box, with the air box removed and cone filter in place you can plumb it back into the tip?


----------



## IPG3.6

mk1chopper said:


> Could it be for models with secondary air pumps that would normally have a pipe back to the air box, with the air box removed and cone filter in place you can plumb it back into the tip?


Oh yeah true. I don't know how the SAI piping goes exactly but I think you are correct! 

Thanks for the input 👍


----------



## IPG3.6

I'll let the photo speak for itself.










These are very common in the platform and I picked it from a relatively low mileage Mk4 Golf 1.6 L. Progress can move forward again! #thankyouwreckers


----------



## David C

mk1chopper said:


> Could it be for models with secondary air pumps that would normally have a pipe back to the air box, with the air box removed and cone filter in place you can plumb it back into the tip?


That would pull SAI air after the MAF sensor, so would effect fuelling.
With no air box, you'd just stick a little filter on the SAI input like the V6 does.


----------



## IPG3.6

David C said:


> That would pull SAI air after the MAF sensor, so would effect fuelling.
> With no air box, you'd just stick a little filter on the SAI input like the V6 does.


the mystery continues - what is that extra port for!? hahaha


----------



## mk1chopper

IPG3.6 said:


> I'll let the photo speak for itself.
> 
> View attachment 492366
> 
> 
> These are very common in the platform and I picked it from a relatively low mileage Mk4 Golf 1.6 L. Progress can move forward again! #thankyouwreckers


Are you fitting a new drier unit?


----------



## IPG3.6

mk1chopper said:


> Are you fitting a new drier unit?


Now you mention it I will  since it has been a while that the system has been opened - the previous owner did close off the ports (with paper towel stuffed into the lines and taped off) but a new receiver drier unit will help optimal performance without having to get back in there again. 

Part number 1J0820191D and there are optioned that aren't too expensive. Going with Mahle Behr brand. 

Thanks @mk1chopper


----------



## IPG3.6

Drier and rad. pack is back on - system is watertight - however fans do not run once the car is up to temp. #anotherhurdle

Pulled fuse 16 and both fans run - so i've bought a new fan switch sensor (triangle connector) which i'm hoping remedies the issue. No driving until the engine can regulate temps.


----------



## David C

IPG3.6 said:


> Drier and rad. pack is back on - system is watertight - however fans do not run once the car is up to temp. #anotherhurdle
> 
> Pulled fuse 16 and both fans run - so i've bought a new fan switch sensor (triangle connector) which i'm hoping remedies the issue. No driving until the engine can regulate temps.


Did you test the low speed fans by shorting the appropriate pins on the thermal switch connector?

Pulling fuse 16 will trigger the high speed fans as a safeguard because that fuse is for the electric coolant pump.

Most likely is the low speed resistors in the fans failed.


----------



## IPG3.6

Thanks @David C will do. Have found your post with the wiring diagram along with discussion on which pins to connect. 

_"Test high speed with ignition on, bridging pins 2 & 3 of the thermal switch connector.
Test low speed with ignition off, bridging pins 2 & 1 of the thermal switch connector"_

Will report back once done.


----------



## IPG3.6

_"Test high speed with ignition on, bridging pins 2 & 3 of the thermal switch connector. _*= high speed fans on*
_Test low speed with ignition off, bridging pins 2 & 1 of the thermal switch connector" _*= low speed fans on*

I think this means replacement fans not required! Maybe the triangle plug sensor?


----------



## IPG3.6

WOOPS! After a bit of triaging I found that the top rad. hose was running hot (good) bit the bottom one was running cold (not right).

So in the end i thought that maybe something was wrong with the thermostat. Well something wasn't wrong with it - i put it in wrong! 🤦‍♂️









Correct way + bleed valve oriented up.









Result is now the fans turn on when require to regulate engine temp. So glad i found it!


----------



## IPG3.6

This video is a big one! It's a tad long but hang in there with me as all of the "smaller jobs" are done meaning bolting together the clutch assembly, gearbox and engine together can be ticked off the list!!!

That clutch surface looks mighty purposeful - i'm looking forward to seeing how this car feels to drive (especially when giving it some beans).

This is a big big moment in this Audi TT Restoration story 🎉


----------



## IPG3.6

Hey TTeam getting more done on the Desert Green Pearl Roadster with another DIY video 

I bolt on the remaining accessories on the bracket and then tackle servicing the gearbox and rear diff with new oil.
Another super important job is getting the clutch back online - i do this with gravity first then have some help with someone pumping the pedal. Easy method - always works!
I also got some red polyurethane bushes and do the DIY install of them. It's not too had - just make sure you have a vice.


----------



## IPG3.6

Picked up some very important (not really) plastic pieces to replace. Not sure what happened to the wheel arches but they got a bit battered.









The "ski jump" wiring loom cover was also REALLY damaged so i got one off an A3 at the wrecking yard. I've been a bit scared to drive the TT in too much rain in case not having this cover on allows a lot of water ingress.









Does anyone elses boost hoses look like they're about to pop off like in this pic?


----------



## RNS-E

IPG3.6 said:


> Hey all! I've succesfully repaired the roadster delaminating rear glass windscreen problem and I must say it actually isn't that difficult to do once you know how everything needs to come together. Thre's defintiely no need to use cushions, duvets or beach balls etc. like i've seen in other posts. I've found a simple solution by using a toolbox to push the glass up plus the clamps you see in the video below! hahaha
> 
> All of the parts should be readily available and best of all this is such a money saver VS buying a new roof and doing a full roof replacement.
> 
> Here's my detailed repair DIY guide video for when your convertible rear window glass is peeling off. I also include re-connection of the rear window demister wires where both sides were broken in my car . My peeling rear glass was actually in very bad condition so it's best to catch it before it gets anywhere near to half way off like mine. Hopefully you only have a small section peeling off which will make the repair much less involved than the barn find TT's. If yours is just as bad (or worse) the information below should be quite helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steps:
> 0:00 Intro
> 1:45 Broken demister wiring plugs
> 3:40 Tools and kit overview
> 4:33 Cleaning up and prepping the glass surface
> 6:34 Raising the dropped glass
> 7:13 How to use the convertible repair suction cups
> 8:25 Applying single step primer
> 8:49 Applying the adhesive (3M window-weld)
> 9:25 Applying the clamps
> 11:38 Suction cup clamps removal
> 12:00 Cleaning up excess glue
> 12:36 Leak testing
> 14:26 Convertible roof testing
> 15:18 Repairing demister connections


Great stuff - is there a reason why you did not remove the glass completely and replaced all the old glue? My glass is completely out and those suction cups are difficult to find here in Europe for some reason as it the 3m window weld and primer, so does anybody know a substitute for the 3M stuff?


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## IPG3.6

RNS-E said:


> is there a reason why you did not remove the glass completely and replaced all the old glue?


I think if I were to remove the whole glass it would make it extremely difficult to use the suction cups. I don't think they're strong enough to hold up the glass which has been completely removed (couple be wrong though).


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## RNS-E

IPG3.6 said:


> I think if I were to remove the whole glass it would make it extremely difficult to use the suction cups. I don't think they're strong enough to hold up the glass which has been completely removed (couple be wrong though).


I'll have to find a way to do it


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## StuartDB

IPG3.6 said:


> Picked up some very important (not really) plastic pieces to replace. Not sure what happened to the wheel arches but they got a bit battered.
> View attachment 493433
> 
> 
> The "ski jump" wiring loom cover was also REALLY damaged so i got one off an A3 at the wrecking yard. I've been a bit scared to drive the TT in too much rain in case not having this cover on allows a lot of water ingress.
> View attachment 493434
> 
> 
> Does anyone elses boost hoses look like they're about to pop off like in this pic?


The stock clips are designed for a bit of give, I have always seen movement on the end of the charge pipe, that's why you always need flared ends and why some of the hose to hard pipes have a locating square ledge.


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## IPG3.6

RNS-E said:


> I'll have to find a way to do it


Might need to get creative like the images in my video  



StuartDB said:


> The stock clips are designed for a bit of give, I have always seen movement on the end of the charge pipe, that's why you always need flared ends and why some of the hose to hard pipes have a locating square ledge.


I've also tried the hairspray trick but they've still shifted from where I've butted them right up to the inner bead. Might swap for Murray clamps all around.


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## StuartDB

What a wierd post above ... I'm sure I posted that years ago? #GetStuffed 

Robots


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## IPG3.6

I didn't know what to make of it... Can it get deleted @admins please?


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## StuartDB

Yeah look I posted it in Feb22 - the account is a form of Bot


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## IPG3.6

This is another place that all TT owners should pay attention to - the wiring loom - ESPECIALLY repairing the coilpack plugs (and if you're (un)lucky - the coilpack harness).

You'll see how simple doing the 1.8t injector wiring loom tuck is to do which helps to tidy up the engine bay slightly as the fuel rail is one continuous line rather than being broken up by the plastic brackets.

I also recommend everyone do the coilpack plug repair. This will ensure your coilpacks are plugged in securely and they're firing away correctly. It's not too difficult with the depinning tools and will save you engine performance and electrical nightmares down the track.

I also get to give the engine a good ol' crank! FINALLY! 
#proudttpapa


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## IPG3.6

You know when things don't go so smoothly? This is one of those videos! It's getting so close to the finish line but at this point it seems like it's one thing after the other!!!

Assembling the Audi TT radiator pack isn't too hard. My main issue was with the receiver drier line being bent - i've posted on this before but here you can see how to replace the part. You can kind of see something's wrong here - the fitting next to the top right mounting bracket - it's at an angle.









The big issue occured when trying to bend it back. These lines - once bent are damaged and should be replaced. 










The TT's receiver drier can also be done in-situ. The main thing to remember if you want to replace the air conditioning condenser (the smaller black radiator) is that you'll need to disconnect the whole assembly away from the radiator carrier panel.










I start by filling up the system with water for the first time so that i can watch for leaks and not have red coolant drip everywhere and discolour the cleaned up engine block. You can see it's all looking pretty neat again!









That's when disast struck and water started pissing out everywhere!! 😩





 
See how we fix everything up and take care of the massive coolant leak in the video.


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## IPG3.6

Now that i figured out what went wrong with the massive leak (that ONE hose!!!) and was able to fill with coolant without any leaks i came across the next issue. The rad. fans didn't want to switch on.

For anyone having coolant system issues like

radiator fans not working
overheating
suspected fan control module issues
This video may be useful.

I go through pretty much ALL of the things to check before finally realising it was a thermostat issue!

The main tests you'll see are:

Pulling #16 fuse test - simplest test to do that helps you see if there's an issue with your low speed fans
Supplyying direct 12v power - this test helps you determine if there are wiring or low speed fan relay issues
Testing radiator fans at low speed
Testing radiator fans at high speed
Fan control module swap and inspection
Inspecting thermostat (DOH!)
Final radiator fan tests
I show you step by step how to do all of these tests.
As long as you're methodical and understand what effect what you'll get to the bottom of your cooling system issues to have your TT running well again. My main rule here was - afer all this effort - i was NOT going to drive it out on the street only to have it overheat and blow a head gasket - this is why i was being so thorough. Hope this helps


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## TT'sRevenge

IPG3.6 said:


> WOOPS! After a bit of triaging I found that the top rad. hose was running hot (good) bit the bottom one was running cold (not right).
> 
> So in the end i thought that maybe something was wrong with the thermostat. Well something wasn't wrong with it - i put it in wrong! 🤦‍♂️


LOL, proof that such goofs can happen to the best of us!


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## IPG3.6

TT'sRevenge said:


> LOL, proof that such goofs can happen to the best of us!


Yup big whoopsies which was totally my fault!


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## mikelstudy

What you are attempting is WAY beyond my mechanical skills....good luck with the project!




Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin​


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## IPG3.6

mikelstudy said:


> What you are attempting is WAY beyond my mechanical skills....good luck with the project!


Hey we wall started somewhere 

Thanks for the well wishes! I'm almost there with it which is great!


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## IPG3.6

Shifting gears with this update as now i'm pretty confident that all that work in the engine is now solid and good to go and it's time to look into the suspension. I had received a box with some spare coilover parts in it and for some reason the previous owner didn't choose to install the rear spring perches to enable height adjustability (or maybe he just wanted the lowest of low setting!)

It's not that difficult to remove the rear springs, and you just have to make sure you remove the rear headlight level sensor prior to moving on. The rest is pretty straightforward an quick. Some lube on the adjustable part's threads and a quick check that they twist smoothly before installing them back in. 





After a couple of up and down action with the rear end i get to a height that' pretty much stock.... maybe a little bit lower than stock (DEFINITELY not as low at the TT 3.6).
I think i'll keep it as is - what do you think?


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## Spliffy

Height looks great

Nick


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## IPG3.6

Spliffy said:


> Height looks great
> 
> Nick


Less chance of scrapes and needn't worry so much about potholes which are rampant on allain roads since all of our rains here. 

Also don't want another incident of the sump to smashing into the ground again! 🤦


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## StuartDB

Looking at those cars the mark 2 (8J) ? Just looks loads better than a Mk1? Not to do with height... just much nicer


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## Spliffy

IPG3.6 said:


> Less chance of scrapes and needn't worry so much about potholes which are rampant on allain roads since all of our rains here.
> 
> Also don't want another incident of the sump to smashing into the ground again! 🤦


I run a steel under tray for that very reason, between pot holes and all the rubble that falls off all the builders lorry's in our corner of the UK our roads are pretty grim.

Nick


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## IPG3.6

StuartDB said:


> Looking at those cars the mark 2 (8J) ? Just looks loads better than a Mk1? Not to do with height... just much nicer


I agree that the styling got more sleek and "ageless". The Mk1 definitely feels more way more retro compared (still beautiful in it's own right)


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## IPG3.6

Spliffy said:


> I run a steel under tray for that very reason, between pot holes and all the rubble that falls off all the builders lorry's in our corner of the UK our roads are pretty grim.
> 
> Nick


Where did you get that from? I'd like one for both! LOL And the R32 (which is running undertrayless)


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## Kevin TT

This (removing the rear spring) is the first video of yours that I've watched: excellent! Clearly explained and filmed, straight to the point, no messing about. I'll definitely watch more.

Thanks very much,
Kevin.


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## David C

IPG3.6 said:


> It's not that difficult to remove the rear springs, and you just have to make sure you remove the rear headlight level sensor prior to moving on. The rest is pretty straightforward an quick. Some lube on the adjustable part's threads and a quick check that they twist smoothly before installing them back in.


Standard springs won't slip in & out as effortlessly as that.
Shorter aftermarket lowering springs are easier as they have a shorter free length. Any that are designed to run with adjustable platforms are shorter still, so even easier.
You also lucked out as your lower spring seat was loose on the arm. That is usually stuck firmly in place, meaning you need to get the small ends of the spring over the bumpstop lumps top & bottom by either compressing the spring (not easy) or by forcing the suspension arm even lower (unclip the ABS sensor wiring at that point).


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## IPG3.6

Kevin TT said:


> This (removing the rear spring) is the first video of yours that I've watched: excellent! Clearly explained and filmed, straight to the point, no messing about. I'll definitely watch more.
> 
> Thanks very much,
> Kevin.


Thanks Kevin 




David C said:


> by forcing the suspension arm even lower (unclip the ABS sensor wiring at that point).


Yeah i thought i'd go to this next step if they didn't come out with the amount of movement i had in the video. Overall pretty simple though which removes the headache of disconnecting the arms connecting to the subframe.


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## IPG3.6

Welcome to the silly season!

Here's an upgrade that'll help freshen up your front end. Removing the front grille isn't too hard once the bumper is off but it's good to take note of the fastening method to minimise damage when removing the grille.

There are a few variations out there (not so keen on the Mk2 type grilles on the Mk1... Looks a tad off to me - what do you think?) But with any of the options this video will help you understand the removal and installation process.






The DGP Roadster is looking like a proper TT again 😎


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## Hoggy

Hi, No need to remove bumper to replace grille, but knowing where the clips are before removal will help.
Hoggy.


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## IPG3.6

What a palava I've had to go through! I finally went to get the car checked over (called a roadworthy here) before getting it registered... Well it failed on a few things. ☹


Number plate lights didn't work (well one didn't work ... As soon as I hit the left side unit that one turned on) so I've installed LED units. 


















They failed the 3" cat - have had to return that back to stock (by dropping the subframe) Cleaned the subframe while I was there. Also had to "get creative" with the two cat gaskets which I got locally that had the wrong suffix letter to make it fit (else wait 8 weeks for it to come from Germany).
The gearbox dogbone small bolt also killed it's threads which has now been replaced with a Timesert (they're way more reliable than Helicoils)










































Struts - modified, strut tops - not rubber - have had to revert those to OEM springs/ shocks and strut top bush. I love that even with new strut top bushes you get a gap in between the cap and the strut tower 😐


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## IPG3.6

Car height - failed because it was slightly too low. Fixed with installed OEM struts and springs. I can go offroading at this height haha 


















Engine covers - loose - so I've converted some over to the countersunk M6 bolt and captive nut setup with some leftover bits and pieces 

















They marked the n249 as emissions disconnected. Have returned that piping back into the engine bay. 










Once we pass I'll finally be able to put plates on and enjoy (along with re installing the 3"DP and coilovers).
Needless to say I know where I *won't* be going again if i ever needed another Roadworthy.


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## Spliffy

IPG3.6 said:


> Where did you get that from? I'd like one for both! LOL And the R32 (which is running undertrayless)


Sorry, just realised I didn't reply ! 





Steel sump guard for Audi TT


The sump guard is new and fits perfectly for all versions of Audi TT manufactured between 1998 and 2006.




www.sump-guard.co.uk




That's the one I've got. 

Nick


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## IPG3.6

Brilliant. Thank you!


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## StuartDB

Jesus.... considering Australia doesn't even let Sheilas behind the wheel unless it's a UT, they are pretty strict. In the UK they are not allowed to touch engine covers or remove any grease etc...

Goes to show, even the vehicle inspectors are crims... all I want to know is.... when are they going to allow someone to release the 'dragons tail'? (The million tons of Uranium, in the reservation)


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## IPG3.6

StuartDB said:


> Jesus.... considering Australia doesn't even let Sheilas behind the wheel unless it's a UT, they are pretty strict.


This place is particularly picky. Hated getting that report knowing that everything I've done means the car is super solid ... But the RWC standards are what they are so I've rectified all of the things on their list and will head head on Tuesday! 

Wish me luck 🤞


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## StuartDB

Maybe Russia will set the rules in 2023?


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## IPG3.6

Let's hope not. 

I got a can of Desert Green Pearl LZ6W to find that 

It comes in 4 variations (standard, yellower, greener, lighter) 
It requires 7 different colours 🤪


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## IPG3.6

I took the TT in for his first RWC inspection where I got a fail. They were really picky with all of these marked as defects:

Defects
1. Brakes: Contaminated, Brake fluid. 
2. Lamps, Signals, Reflectors etc: Not functioning, Number plate light/s. 
3. Steering and Suspension: Modified, All Shocker strut. 
4. Exhaust and Emission Controls: Disconnected, Emmission vacuum lines. 
5. Exhaust and Emission Controls: Modified, Catalitic converter. 
6. Engine and Driveline: Unsecured, Engine. Comments: ENGINE COVERS
7. Modification: Non compliant, Suspension. Comments: TOO LOW

So went through and "bigger" components are returned back to stock form as in the short video below.
Roadworthy inspection time for the Desert Green Pearl barn find Audi TT

On 2nd inspection I was informed over the phone by someone else that the emmisions is repaired but not complete. I didn't understand what they meant so I got the mechanic to show me. On arrival he opened the bonnet. This time he said the emissions system is MISSING (so the story changed)! He was referring to the N249 valve (which I did the delete on in the 1st inspection) that I had since reinstalled.

I had to put my foot down at this point (started to get emotional!) and say 

that's not emissions (he was arguing it is... I re informed him what that system is actually for)
it's now installed in it's factory location with all factory bracketry and wiring - I told him to refer back to his photos from the first round and he will see it's the same valve
he pointed out a port in my intake pipe is blocked to which I said nothing goes in there and that's due to the piping being from an older model which in that nipple is obsolete

As he went to replace the engine cover he dropped one of the washers for the newly updated engine cover bolt fastenings... I made him get it before he said he would sort out the RWC for a pass ✔

So... Tomorrow I got to VicRoads and get the DGP TT Roadster registered! (After all that palava - I will NOT be going back to this RWC place ever!) 🙌


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## StuartDB

no wonder people south of the equator end up in some sort of spree. it's making me unbalanced reading this.

is he racist, ageist or simply jealous?

I feel like I am fuming at some situation 6000 miles away... just do a Pokemon Go trade with him or something..


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## IPG3.6

It has made everyone i know rage so don't worry you're not alone with this feeling. he was just giving grief - i feel like it's one of those places who will try and tell you everything little thing is wrong with your car so you potentially spend with them.

Luckily i actually knew what i'd done and everything is as stock as stock can be - no way i was going to leave the place without getting that pass certificate. Especially when he was saying the emissions (referring to the n249 valve component) was missing. I was thinking MATE do you have eyes as this was the exact view when he removed the engine cover?









Anywho! We are now registered and totally road legal! woop woop!





























Looking quite smashing in our summer weather too! Love it.

Now it's time to pop all the mods back on!


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## silverbug

IPG3.6 said:


> View attachment 495668
> 
> 
> 
> Looking quite smashing in our summer weather too! Love it.



OK , no need to rub it in.



 .

Think a lot of us in the Northern Hemisphere would kill to be able to drop the roof right now and go for a spin.
Instead we have constant rain & grey skies  .


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## StuartDB

F the rego po po.. 

Like I said in the UK the testers cannot poke around, move or wipe anything. They are 100% not allowed to pick at corrosion on things like brake or clutch pipes

So some MOTs have advisory comments like could not see brakes pipes 'grease'

This is where there's potential disadvantages if there are under vehicle covers missing, as they can look for issues then. They are allowed to put bars here and there to check bushes etc...

This whole thread reminds me of luck stock and two smoking barrels, when they "abducted") a traffic warden


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## IPG3.6

Went for a drive up the mountains yesterday, was nice and hot out but still had the top down.










I'm very happy with the Roadster and love that i've finally got it back on the road and running well! The main thing i've noticed is that it feels a little less planted than i'd like but i think that's due to the tyres being average road spec and the KW/HPA coilovers are quite compliant. Compared to the Bilstein B14 they are definitely not as stiff.

Has to take a couple of videos to record the exhaust sound and going around some corners. It handles well - could be better and i have an H&R rear swaybar to fit to help with curves.
• mild bendy corner
• bend into another bend


For those wanting to know about the Frankenturbo power delivery we did some runs. Here's a screenshot of max. g/s from one of the runs (mind you it was 31˚C and we're still running the stock SMIC). I think with improved cooling there would be improvement.


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## StuartDB

Say what ....~ 240g/s is 300 bhp? I thought you made most things stock -


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## IPG3.6

Well i did - all of the things as part of what failed on the roadworthy 1st inspection went back to stock. None of the failures were engine upgrades so i didn't have to revert those


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## IPG3.6

Engine bay no longer has the "stealth" look now i've installed this pod filter and most importantly a heatshield that seals off from the rest of the engine bay once the bonnet is down.


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## IPG3.6

It's tuning time! Mainly wanted to have a look at the current tune that's loaded. 

Thanks @StuartDB for the PMs regarding the strange file setup I had uploaded. Now fixed with a proper BAM map flash file.


----------

