# 225HP after remap



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

I have got a remap from Uber UK and I can feel that there is no big change so far, here is some data:










The N75 is always at 95% after 2k RPM, the MAF indicates 180 g/s max on my runs, hence 225 HP (180/0.8).

Do you see any clue in these data ?

Thanks for your help,

Katak


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## A_Banging_Donk (Apr 22, 2017)

Intake temps way too high, 95% n75 all the way to redline.... Get your money back!


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

The guy looks famous in UK (I'm french)... Is there anyone that can check the map I got ?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Is this a 180 TT ?

95% flat on a 180 would do this kind of profile and injectors are maxed out so it looks like a 180.

Get your money back, it shouldn't be so aggressive midrange and probably why you are getting high intake temps. 
be good to see 003-020 log but the n75 duty alone would suggest that maybe just get a refund and look elsewhere.

Also... if you feel there is no big change, how do you know it wasn't already remapped?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Wak,

I bought the car from a guy who worked at Bosch, I do not think he re-maped it! 

The car is a TT225, BAM engine, Milltek exhaust, new N75, new MAF, new DV.

May I send you my map so you can confirm the issue and I can beg for refund ? 

Thx a lot


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

have you got an FMIC? why on earth have you got 191% engine load on a stage 1 map - the car is surely going into intervention at 3500rpm, hence the drop in power. - if it was mapped on a dyno did they have freezing air directed at the intercoolers or something crazy?

I am personally concerned about getting over 30 degree's c IAT on my car - did you buy a stage 2 map and fit it on a stock car?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

Map was provided by Uber Tuning, I requested a safe map as a stage 1 update => 265HP was the target
Since I live far away I did not use any dyno.

Should I worry and stop using my car ? [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Thanks,

Katak


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

just change the map - or change your hardware to suit the crazy map you have.

Stage 1 @ 265BHP ? give me a break - that's how engines blow up.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

StuartDB said:


> just change the map - or change your hardware to suit the crazy map you have.
> 
> Stage 1 @ 265BHP ? give me a break - that's how engines blow up.


Why do you say that on a stage 1 ?! Sorry I'm lost here... I did think it was a minor update on that kind of engine ?


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Just contact Uber, and tell them you can't feel any improvement after the remap. Include the logs. Ask for references from other 225 owners who have had the same remap as you, contact them direct for honest feedback. Then decide if you want a refund. If you paid by credit card, then they may be able to help you. Increasing engine power by 16%, and torque by 20+% on an engine that has done many kilometers will lead to premature failure. If you have a very good reason for needing more than 225hp,then go ahead, but be aware of the risk, and cost of the inevitable failure, most likely 1000s of euros. More power is only worth it if you are going to use it. 225 is quite good compared to other cars of a similar age, and even some much newer! Mac.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I simply think that 99% of stock 225BAM will safely map to 245 not 265 - maybe a custom map on a dyno by an expert on the one in a hundred cars might get closer to 260bhp with minor changes (air intake and filter) - but REVO only do 245BHP stage 1 and 275BHP stage 2, why do you think that everyone changes the intake, intercooler, and downpipe to try and get the max safely from a K04 and stock internals as a stage 2, that is not just for 10BHP.

your map is demonstrating your car unable to manage the requested MAP and maybe falling back to the safer BTS or knock part protection map (probably because you are exceeded some threshold). you're not alone I couldn't even run my S3 Stage 1 map on my TT it kept dropping power after 5500RPM through knock, instead I put the timing back to stock and managed to up the fuel and load instead to get a safe 196g/s (that was because when I requested 170% the car tried to produce 190%)

have you tried using me7logger, that way you can log some details (10 samples a second) like the boost requested and actual boost, MAF, IAT, EGT, timing, knock voltage.

what does the LDRXN and LAMFA look like in tunerpro?

I still need to change my spark plugs as stock plugs are not really good enough for a stage 1 map.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hi Wak,
> 
> I bought the car from a guy who worked at Bosch, I do not think he re-maped it!
> 
> ...


I'd like to see youre engine bay :roll: because that boost profile on a map with 95% flat duty , there is something very wrong!....

I'm guessing as you did this DIY is that you have some serious leaks not having it reviewed before hand, 9/10 225s I test are leaking to varying degrees.
The top end boost is barely 225 level the profile is like a mapped 180, so if your maf says 225 and boost is slightly low then its pointing towards a leak I think.

however........ your injector duty is 100% at 225 bhp which doesn't make sense.....how injectors are maxed out for 225 delivery unless you may also have a weak fuel pump.

I would give this car a proper review before mapping it , it needs logging on a stock file to check it, it should have a leak test and make sure its a healthy 225 before you go anywhere near mapping.


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

I guess this is why you pay for the knowledge and experience at a dyno tuning centre, whatever you are trying to modify??

I wouldn't fancy a holed piston, snapped rod or blown turbo.

(I hope in road use I never need more than the alleged 247bhp my 3.2 puts out.)


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Katak,

Suggest you return the map to original as soon as possible, as the logs suggest the Uber map, with your engine is likely to cause damage (Wak knows what he's talking about). Once the map is back to standard, do a vagcom scan to see what is wrong (leaks etc) and work through them until they are all fixed, and you have a clear scan, no error codes. Run the car for a while, and check for error codes again. Only when you are 100% sure all is well, remap again. Go for a run, 25k perhaps, then scan for errors again. If the scan is clean, post the new logs here for feedback. Mac.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you everyone for your great feedback !

I will flash the guenine map then check leaks / logs... I will do the PCV delete and catch can install before.

as soon as I get data, I'll post them here ! 

Thx


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Good luck! Mac.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Log 
002-031
003-020
115-118
118-112 useful if you can

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello All,

Finally I have removed the whole PCV system and replaced the boost hoses... not by Forge unfortunately, it was tricky sometimes and I hope there is no leak. In fact it's quite the opposite...

Let me make the story of data:

- I tried to remember the set to be used and I made the 005 / 020 instead of 003/ 020
- I have all the excel files as following if anyone needs them to help me more:
002-031
005-020
115-118
118-112
- Once I have removed PCV yesterday, I have been driving a little (35°C actually here) and could feel a stop at 4k RPM with a faulty code saying:
17963 - Charge Pressure 
P1555 - 35-10 - Maximum Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
- The code was this morning early then I removed it before the runs, hence all the data did not meet any specific issue or wrong "feeling"
- I have saved a log at the end (001/002) and I got this time the faulty code, there is no picture of it here, only excel file but I'm not sure this set is the best one to detect anything...

Here are some picture coming from my runs where I did NOT meet the faulty code or feeling issue, the ECu is stock as it was forecasted to ensure that isssue is not coming from the mapping:























































Thanks in advance for your feedback... Load engine is high right ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

what do you think the engine load is high? a stock Audi TT QS (240PS) goes up to 188 Load


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Start by changing the N75 for a new genuine part


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

I did think being higher than 170% was too high... I don't remember why...

I will order a N75K if that's still possible, if not I'll get a "J" Version.

As soon as it's done, I'll post data ! 

Thanks and have a great week,

Katak


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Can you try and upload the actual csv, excel file too?

Why is your air intake temperature getting up to 68 degree c that is really hot.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

I have made no modification on intake equipment, air filter is new and guenine, air box has been "Waked"... here was 34°C, perhaps it's the reason ? what is the usual high value ?

I have added in attachment all the excel files I made, I could make the 003-020 that was missing.

Thank you

PS: Just an extra question, I found this not "protected", is this ok ? what is the function ?:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

StuartDB said:


> Can you try and upload the actual csv, excel file too?
> 
> Why is your air intake temperature getting up to 68 degree c that is really hot.


Stock mapping.... high boost... no fuelling changes and no ignition changes = high temperatures.

Don't get a K or a J , get the current E valve. 
Get this car back to a good stock base, then log and when you know that's good ...... Then try your map and log again.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

The "E" version has been ordered ! a Genuine one...

Thank you Wak for your help,

Katak


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

That hole is supposed to have a bung, it is to find TDC on the crank-shaft.

I'm only a beginner but at least with a csv you can compare all the values against time rpm etc.

I


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

in 118 you can see the EGT goes over the 920 limit so start "enriching" (chucking in a load of fuel to cool the engine down)

15.68	6080	61	84.7	1930	15.37	930	6.3
 16.29	6320	63	78	1950	15.99	940	13.7
 16.89	6600	64	73.3	1970	16.59	950	19.6
 17.49	6560	66	0	2110	17.18	945	19.6
 18.09	5120	62	0	1160	17.8 930	14.5
 18.69	4120	62	0	1050	18.39	920	9.8


also if you look at this - it is stock LAMFA fueling going down to 0.95 on 100% load - that probably adds to the high EGTs forcing the car into enrichment.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Stuart,

thanks for your analysis ! 

I am expecting the N75 on end of the week as for the IAT sensor I could get at 20€.

Have a good afternoon all,

Katak


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

there's nothing wrong with the AIT sensor, the point is the map you bought is running stock LAMFA meaning it will run hot/ lean when the boost is up, the intercooler's are not cooling the air enough promoting knock which is how the thread started, the EGTs are going too high causing enrichment > 6000rpm by switching onto the "BTS" map settings to protect the components.

have you logged the timing? I dont know what that is in VCDS - when I tried to change my TT Map to the same Stage 1 Timing profile I had from my S3 - it lost power due to knock voltage too high.

also did you roll the map back to stock before this logging, I cant remember if that is what you were planning to do to start with?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hey Stuart,

Yes I started with a modified map then I got a stock one, the measurements are from a stock map.
I already uploaded the file where there were timings, you'll find them in attachment ! 

For the IAT sensor, my philosophy is to replace items when I find good price since I want to keep this car "forever", I'm currently looking at wheel bearings...120000 miles... I know it looks like over quality! 

regards,

Katak


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Hi thanks i found it now, your car seems better on stock doesn't it?

So what about if you repeat the tests with the bought map? You might be able to simply modify it a bit in tunerpro?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Stuart your getting confused and jumping around things that are Indicators but irrelevant until the issue is fixed

He's on a STOCK map hitting 1.4 bar !

He needs to fix the overboost first ... simple!

Then log and see if all is ok or if there is something else to review before trying the remap again.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Yes That's right as said by Wak, next milestone on actual map which is stock: end of the week with the new N75, that should fix the issue.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello All,

I hope you are fine! 

Here is 35°C... pretty hot to make runs without any AC activated in the car ! ^^

So I changed the N75 and the Dump Valve (Forge 008, stock spring), you'll find the data in attachment.
All looks much better, pressure follows the one requested by ECU.

The only issues I get is about Exhaust gaz temp and intake temperature ? (950°C peak and around 60/65°C always during runs), any investigation to make here ?

The Airflow looks ok and with the 190g/s I get, it looks like it corresponds to 237 HP ?! that's high for a stock right ?

Enjoy the eek-end,

Froggy Happy, thanks all for the N75 suggestion, especially Wak...


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Is this the stock map ? 
And can you tell me what mods the car has? 
Can you email me a copy ? - [email protected]

It just seems to have a mildly higher requested boost unless atmospherics and temps are doing something the egt values seem a bit high .


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

It is the map that was in the car in 2007, a company car, I think it was not tuned.

Anyway here is list of modification :
- milltek exhaust
- dv forge 08
- spacer below intake manifold
- airbox wak mod (small holes)

If you have a stock map for bam engine ? They are all the same ?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I checked my history and the stock map is fine.

I'm thinking your non Bosch Maf could be a problem as there is no assurance calibration is the same.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

interesting.. I dont mean to digress (as per usual) but do you think non Bosch MAFs might overread? I was stuck at 200g/s on my S3 with enough load to restart mars' planet's core - but when I changed to a cheap sensor - I was suddenly reading 225g/s which seemed too high for my stage 2 setup? so.. do you reckon some of these cheap sensor's purposely overread to avoid lean mixture, forcing the ECU into extra fuel?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I think "purposely" makes it sound like someone put some thought into it, cheap clones with no care for the accuracy or consequences to the end user is more like it.

Yes they can over or under read, I had a cheap maf registering 315bhp on a stock 225 on one car.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks, so just randomly inaccurate then. Crazy how they are allowed, and it's essentially word of mouth to ensure people only buy bosch sensors. Even rumours that EuroCarParts can't be trusted for BAM / AMK MAFs and the cases say bosch but sensors are fake


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

There are 2 references available here:
- https://www.oscaro.com/debitmetre-de-ma ... 427-3926-p
- https://www.oscaro.com/debitmetre-de-ma ... 662-3926-p

How can we check it's 100% bosch ?
One is returnable but I'm not sure it's the reason of different reference ?
Which do I need for my TT 225 BAM ? 

FYI here is the one actually plugged:
https://www.oscaro.com/debitmetre-de-ma ... 069-3926-p

Have a good day !


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

280 218. Is BAM and other wideband 240
218 065 is APX (narrowband 225s )


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Wak said:


> 280 218. Is BAM and other wideband 240
> 218 965 is APX (narrowband 225s )


280218 you mean 0 986 280 218 and 218965 you mean 0 280 218 065 ?

Thank you !

EDIT: I found this useful thread: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 0&t=230108


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What makes you so sure your pre-existing map was stock? If you upload the bin I will tell you how it compares to stock?

Just seems weird you have a phenolic spacer for a stock car and the crazy high intake air temps


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

From what I heard the phenolic spacer does not improve temperature actually ?
Concerning the IAT, it's "only" 20°C above the ambient temperature, do we have data with increase temp VS ambient one ? 

The map has been checked by Wak in fact, I flashed it then I made a dump to check it was the same, that was.

I'll get a new Bosch MAF tomorrow, I'll make new runs hence!

Good day to all of you


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Mine were 34 on stock intercoolers running about 18psi boost here on a controlled 3rd gear run, up to 40 if sitting with heat soak then a run, the temps decreased as going faster (obviously) I haven't logged since fitting an FMIC I need a 'rescue vehicle' nearby incase a hose pops off .

I thought after 35 degrees the chances of knock increase?

The inlet manifold spacer inhibits heat soak from the engine to the inlet manifold, it might not affect IAT because the location of the sensor? Maybe the previous owner added it to try and control the heat?

Either way your IAT are at the limit (70degree c) and so are your EGT (920 degree c), I would be surprised if related soley to ambient temperature. Is one of the intercooler ducts blocked with a birds nest or even missing, misaligned etc


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thanks for your message! 

The ducting are present, I checked them yesterday ! :wink: 
But the headlight washer is really "obstructing" the intercoolers, same for you I imagine ?
Since I got a tank leak, I removed it, hence these washers are not useful anymore, I'll remove them to improve cooling. (I'll also cute the plastic behind the intercoolers)

Tomorrow I'll make the runs with new MAF&#8230; 30°C here, better for this purpose !


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

I received my new MAF but I was wondering if I had to focus on the fact the body says 065:










Looks like it's really coming from Bosck and sticker gives correct reference, is there any possibility to check sensor is the real one ?

Runs this noon... 

Thanks


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

should have flow straighteners on both ends


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello Wak, All,

Here is final results after MAF replacement, no change with Bosch one from my pov.
ETG is still higher than 900°C while IAT is higher than 50°C (Air Temp is 30°C).

Below a picture of both MAF, one is HELLA while the second is Bosch:










Looks like I may try my map or install new injectors 630cc to get a dual map RON98 / E85... if you agree ?! ^_^

Thanks


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hello Wak, All,
> 
> Here is final results after MAF replacement, no change with Bosch one from my pov.


Look more closely , your previous boost was 1.3 bar............ this is now what I would class as near perfect 225 logs.

Fuel grade may effect timing retards a little, as could ambient and intake temps. your EGT protection kicking in at High RPM and the increase post lift off is perfectly normal.
Fuel pump is looking healthy as well.

I think this highlights how important a correctly calibrated maf is to how the ECU works and makes the car behave.

What I cant explain is , load is identical, n75 duty identical the main differences are that the air mass reading were over reading with the old Maf and the intake air temps higher as well, but in these runs boost looks fine, amm values look correct and intake air temps are better as well. 
I was expecting the maf to be triggering a different n75 duty but it's identical yet the boost was very different.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hey !

A quick question after remap...

- I get 3.3s between 80 / 120 Kmph => looks fine for stage 1
- MAF value is at 188 g/s, same as stock...
- boost pressure goes up to 1.24 while pressure request is 1.5 bar
- The map is made in "hard mode", not following boost request I was told => I did not know this behavior

I do not understand why it looks ok as stage 1 but MAF value did not increase ?! 

Thanks All


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hey !
> 
> A quick question after remap...
> 
> ...


I'm not going into details of how load request becomes a requested boost line, just be ok that so long as the request is higher than the actual then the car will not have any over boost related issues, and a few tuners do max out request which may seem odd but its not something to be too worried about with all the other more aggressive ecu protections that could kick in.

Having now seen your mapped logs I cant see any concerns in the mapping on the surface. 
Ive emailed you a reply.

The fundamental issue is I'm seeing an N75 duty cycle that on a healthy BAM 225 I would expect a circa 1.6-1.7 bar boost spike at around 3200-3500rpm and the car to be able to hold 1.1+ bar towards the redline. 
Your not getting the spike or the held boost.

Hence I believe you have a hardware issue to resolve which I've given some thoughts on in my mail. :?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Wak,

Thanks again for your support, I will look after boost leak and I'ml waiting for the specific tool now. I will make the wastegate investigation this week-end. Anyway with 125 kmiles and the price of the wastegate (50€ brand new), it would not be a bad idea to replace it.

Have a good afternoon,

Katak


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hi Wak,
> 
> Thanks again for your support, I will look after boost leak and I'ml waiting for the specific tool now. I will make the wastegate investigation this week-end. Anyway with 125 kmiles and the price of the wastegate (50€ brand new), it would not be a bad idea to replace it.
> 
> ...


I would be doing other checks, leak test, actuator crack pressure and movement, the DV and then maybe a tighten wastegate test first before investing in a wastegate. You could have a worn turbo and removing the TIP to check play and compressor integrity is advisable.

To set this up properly you need a hand pressure pump with gauge as crack pressure should be 5.5psi, and you'd need to check this and to be able to try adjustment or be able to set up a new actuator.

I wouldnt just jump at a new actuator without further review.

Just a thought is the n75 newish?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I ordered this tool:

http://turboboostleaktesters.com/3-pro- ... ak-tester/

I hope I will be able to test the charge pipe by adapting the tool.

The N75 is new and it's a "E" version, I heard the boost pressure was lower than other one on this one, still I know now that it should sustain 1.4 bar.

The N80 will be removed to improve potential leak; I'll be back when I have done this Design Of Experiments ! 

Thank you again


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello All,

I'm back with full turbo line check (out of the turbo itself) and baby of 7 month ! 

I have fixed some leaks, the upper gasket that made oil smoke on start and the oil strainer.
I was really confident that it would fix the MAF limitation seen at 190g/s... now I get 180g/s.

I must not recall corectly of the acceleration since I do feel it's a real stage 1... I have no reference since 2 years so I might be impressed by a real 265hp.

You'll find here some logs... I might consider to swap my fuel pump (hfp-A36HV) by a real D65w... and the turbo will be the next stage since my car is getting 125Kmiles.

Regards

EDIT: I've checke the DV008 Forge and I get a green spring... yellow might improve the boost right ? shall I mount this with opposite way ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

You will know if the forge008 spring needs upgrading to yellow because you will get a massive boost release, is that happening?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Stuart,

Are you saying that the pschttt sound will be much important on yellow compared to green and this will show it's worth the upgrade ?
(I ordered yellow pring yesterday, I lost during a move to another flat the spring box)

Thanks for your help


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I'd like to see a log of 003-020

On the surface of the remaining logs I think your mapping is just a bad map but 003-020 will help to complete that picture.

You have a dv008 with a green spring so long as it's working and you have checked for leaks in all your pipework and charge system then that DV will be fine.

Changing springs is pointless.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> I have fixed some leaks, the upper gasket that made oil smoke on start


What gasket are you referring to for start up smoke? And do you mean smoke out of tail pipes or smoke in engine bay?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

katak said:


> Hi Stuart,
> 
> Are you saying that the pschttt sound will be much important on yellow compared to green and this will show it's worth the upgrade ?
> (I ordered yellow pring yesterday, I lost during a move to another flat the spring box)
> ...


No... I'm saying you will put your foot down and sometimes suddenly get a loss of power, like a hose popping off, the dv008 is fitted with green as default, but as colour blind I assumed the spring in the box was green.. and I would boost okay to 22psi, but sometimes, I would put my foot down coming off a roundabout, and I assume the charge pressure forced open the DV. Changing to yellow solved that, but i have blue in now.

So what I'm saying is unless you are getting this behaviour you don't need to change.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Stuart this is crystal clear, I'll do that this WE whand I go back to home.

Wak I have replaced this gasket: 



I'll make 003-020 logs this WE too.

Thanks for your help guys,
Katak


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Ok thanks, so you had smoke in engine bay from this leak?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Wak said:


> Ok thanks, so you had smoke in engine bay from this leak?


Yes for many years there was smoke during 2 minutes at start-up, now it's over.
I've been trying to check turbo / wastegate and as a non manual guy, I could not... with the mileage I think it'll be a nice preventive action to change for a genuine K04-023.

FYI the N75 was changed 2 years ago for this one: 06a 906 283e 
(BTW thx again Wak for this "request")


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> > Ok thanks, so you had smoke in engine bay from this leak?
> ...


I think its hard to say a turbo change has a mileage expectation to renew, they can have housing cracks, they can have low wear from reglar oil changes and sedate driving and they can have much wear from later oil changes and agressive driving.

Usually smoke is the main reason they get changed many may have good torque but lower top end because of exhaust housing cracks that grow with higher EGTs.....

My own turbo was remapped at 400 miles and had a good mix of sedate and agressive driving around 7 track days in its life but gave up at 77k miles with smoke and a seal blown. ive mapped 130k plus cars on stock turbos going well.

Plus in my experiences for some reason a older APX non EGT turbo seem like they maintain better top end boost than later BAM EGT cars but I cant explain why that may be, its just a general observation when logging them.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thanks for your point of view Wak !

As I want to keep my car for a long time (even if Madam wants to see it away..) I think that I'd prefere to get a all new turbo that will last for 20 years since I'm making 3k miles per year and service oil every 5k miles.

The only showstopper is the global price of 2k€ and find a good mechanic... which is pretty hard in south of France for that kind of work. (last one came at my house and left without any message when he discovered the job to make... pity !).


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Thanks for your point of view Wak !
> 
> As I want to keep my car for a long time (even if Madam wants to see it away..) I think that I'd prefere to get a all new turbo that will last for 20 years since I'm making 3k miles per year and service oil every 5k miles.
> 
> The only showstopper is the global price of 2k€ and find a good mechanic... which is pretty hard in south of France for that kind of work. (last one came at my house and left without any message when he discovered the job to make... pity !).


Have replied to your email.

What about going for soething like this and just a conservative map to keep it at 280-300 bhp 
https://badger5.co.uk/turbo-exhausts/k0 ... cial-order

problem is getting a mechanic and those turbo bolts can get stuck and need some good experience to work with.
Quite a few people use this chap in uk https://www.facebook.com/bryn.stilgoe
But its a long holiday for him and a maybe quarantine when he returns and probably very small chance he may consider a working holiday. :? his mileage charge may buy a new TT! :roll:


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

This turbo looks great, I wanted the same turbo for 2 reasons:
- I could see many stories with non genuine turbo that were a mess
- another turbo would imply a new mapping, I'd like to keep multimap to use ethanol and it's difficult to find these expert mappers

The guy is an expert yes... it'd be better if I go to UK I suppose and as you said that I definitely buy a 3.2V6... :mrgreen:


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello All,

I've just come back, same bahavior with Boasch or HElla MAF, N75J or N75E:
- EGT is good with max at 830°C
- Boost is at 1.5 at middl RPM then decreases even with the N75 at 95%

The only item so far I did not check is the wastegate / turbo, I'm too tall and afraid to touch this...

Any idea on logs in attachment ?
I don't know how to decrypt the retard timing and injection values... a newbie yet after 13 years of TT MK1 ! :-/

regards


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Ive just replied to you mail....

Boost is just under 1.4 in midrange..... mostly this now all look fine including the n75 duty getting put out now which was bad before so something is weird on why that happened.

The Issue now I see is for the n75 duty cycle your boost is low, it should spike to 1.5+ bar and hold 1.1-1.2 and its not.

Youve tried different n75s and air mass on/off and seen no differences.

So I feel you may have turbo issue perhaps and exhaust housing crack or possibly a DV leaking and recirculating boost pressure that may explain low boost and low air mass figures that coincide.

:?


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello Wak,

Thanks for your lights, I will start with the minimum cost hence the genuine DV (Forge 008 is only 2 years, looks ok inside) then I will start to forecast the turbo, manifold replacement...

Don't tell my wife please !


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Well I don't want you exploring expensive options unless you have to 
check the dv it's easy 
Open it make sure spring is not cracked
Make sure it has O- ring on piston head 
And closed push piston and hold top nipple it should not release until you move finger.

This ideally needs your tuner locally hands on to review the car because it's still risky to be diagnosing without being there and knowing the mapping , we still don't know why mapping requested 77% and now 95%.

Actuator setting could also be something to review in case it's weak or been played with just those that know me know I'll explore as much as possible diagnostically to run out of the easy before suggesting the harder issues.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I have checked this one on last saturday, all is in good shape and inline with your expectation still I have ordered a genuine one from Febi.

I was wondering if the oil catch can might be a potential issue:










I do not have the PCV breather called hockey puck but I ordered this one too; I will also check under the intake manifold if it's well closed.

Thank you


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

just ask to drive over to see Wak, before the cov-id causes user a 14 day quarantine  it's got to be easier than all this guesswork, trial and error and weird behaviour.

Personally, I would try and get me7logger working - those VCDS logs are a nightmare, you can record about 40-50 sensor readings @ 20 samples a second - then see real graphs etc. if you can update the map on your ecu you will be able to create an ECU profile and collect data - then do a couple of 3rd gear pulls from 1500rpm to about 6000rpm.

then you could also do a couple of 3rd gear logs after putting you stock map back on.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I always used VCDS... sorry, that may be old school.

I digged in me7logger, I could create my .ecu file, looking now to make graph based on the 753 parameters:
- Any config file, parameters list definition for TT mk1 ? 

Thx for the tips


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

oh, I thought you updated the map on your car yourself from an emailed map.. yes look to see if you can get me7logger working, it just returns all the sensors you want for the same run, rather than multiple blocks on different runs.

you use a kkl lead so if you dont have one of those I am not sure you can do it with a Genuine VCDS Lead.

this is an example of the data provided.

View attachment AET_RR_WMI11_t2.csv


and you can then easily generate multiple axis charts to look for anomalies

example power chart









example fuelling chart
some charts are pre-written or you can save your own.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

ECUxplot installed... But...

But... are you saying I could record all the data on 1 run during the last 10 years ? [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
I always believed that CAN limited data quantity and sampling, some kind of trade-off.

So Me7logger -> only one csv -> Ecuxplot is dealing with csv then you pick-up the parameters you want.
8)

I'm no tuner... I found a tuner in france that makes multimap only on 1.8t.
This is why it's tricky this whole story, thanks to Wak and you, I'm discovering stuff...

Regards

KKl Lead: I get a f*** VCDS 12.7...


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I am just a beginner at this and only have my own experiences - wak is an expert.

KKL Leads used to be less than a fiver - I am sure you can set a VCDS lead into a KKL dumb cable - but they are expensive leads and I will never advise someone to do something I would never do, in-case it bricks the lead.










Use that log I sent with ECUPlot and you can start to learn how it works - me7logger does need a .ecu (i think) file to create the correct profile to collect the data.

I could also send you a massive log with more details in - but if you look at me7logger you can see all the possible sensors to collect data from, and there are default preferred and even preferred order. what I tend to do is copy the chunk I want to view in ecu plot and just make a file with that in - there's a trick to doing this as ecuplot files must look like a real file and start from 0 on the timestamp so I just copy and paste the data I want missing out the time then delete the rest of the file. it then allows you to look at the exact place and event happened so you can look to see what's going on - maybe the throttle plate suddenly closed of EGT kicked in intervention etc.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you Stuart, this is very clear, I did change curves and bought the KKL cable !

Yes coming from VCDS and seeing this, I understand your some kind of frustration to follow the whole story.

As soon as I get the hockey ouck for the oil catch can and the DV, I'll make ONE new run ! 

Cheers


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hey Experts !

I finally installed the colorMFA, the DV, oil catch can, etc... I've just tried ME7Logger, it works for a few seconds and:










Override sample rate is at 20... standard value.

Do you know what could occur here ?

Thanks !


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

there is no image


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I can see it Stuart...


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Maybe the URL is file://c:\MyPictures\images\blah.jpg instead of a real url to a website image. Use the upload attachment instead.


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Arhh I se :x e an iffy hosting place (according to Vodafone)


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

StuartDB said:


> Arhh I se :x e an iffy hosting place (according to Vodafone)
> 
> View attachment 1


snap of what you can't see


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks.. lord knows... well it looks like dam dum daaaannnn "the input string is not he right format"  

A total shot in the dark would be; an error id being raised as a return to a function which is supposed to be a number?

why not start with a simple configuration first.


```
[Configuration]
ECUCharacteristics = 8N0906018H  0004_TT_ORIGINAL_BAM.ecu
SamplesPerSecond = 20

[LogVariables]
;Name            [Alias]                             [; Comment]
dwkrz_0         ;IgnitionRetardCyl1                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_1         ;IgnitionRetardCyl4                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_2         ;IgnitionRetardCyl2                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_3         ;IgnitionRetardCyl3                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
fr_w            ;LambdaControl                        ; Lambda-Regler-Ausgang (Word)
fra_w           ;AdaptationPartial                    ; multiplikative Gemischkorrektur der Gemischadaption (Word)
frm_w           ;LambdaControlAvg                     ; schneller Mittelwert des Lambdaregelfaktors (Word)
gangi           ;SelectedGear                         ; Ist-Gang vom CAN bei AT oder aus n/v bei HS
lamsbg_w        ;AirFuelRatioDesired                  ; Lambdasoll Begrenzung (word)
lamsoni_w       ;AirFuelRatioCurrent                  ; Lambda-Istwert
ldimxa_1        ;BoostCorrectFactorPID-IRange2        ; Adaptive Korrektur der LDR I-Regler Maximalwertbegrenzung
ldrlts_w        ;ChargeLimitTurboProtection           ; Begrenzungswert für maximale Füllung LDR für ATL-Schutz
ldtvm           ;WastegateDutyCycle                   ; LDR Tastverhältnis
msdk_w          ;MassAirFlowAtThrottlePlate           ; Massenstrom über Drosselklappe (word)
mshfm_w         ;MassAirFlow                          ; Massenstrom HFM 16-Bit Größe
nmot_w          ;EngineSpeed                          ; Motordrehzahl
plsol_w         ;BoostPressureDesired                 ; Soll-Ladedruck
pvdks_w         ;BoostPressureActual                  ; Druck vor Drosselklappe ohne Umschaltung auf Ersatzwert bei Sensorfehler
rk_w            ;                                     ; relative Kraftstoffmasse
rkrn_w_0        ;KnockVoltageCyl1                     ; normierter Referenzpegel Klopfregelung
rkrn_w_1        ;KnockVoltageCyl4                     ; normierter Referenzpegel Klopfregelung
rkrn_w_2        ;KnockVoltageCyl2                     ; normierter Referenzpegel Klopfregelung
rkrn_w_3        ;KnockVoltageCyl3                     ; normierter Referenzpegel Klopfregelung
rl_w            ;EngineLoad                           ; relative Luftfüllung (Word)
rlmax_w         ;EngineLoadCorrected                  ; maximal erreichbare Füllung bei Turbo
rlmx_w          ;EngineLoadSpecified                  ; Rohwert Maximalfuellung
rlsol_w         ;EngineLoadRequested                  ; Soll-Füllung
tabgm           ;EGTModelBeforeCat                    ; Abgastemperatur vor Kat aus Modell
tans            ;IntakeAirTemperature                 ; Ansaugluft - Temperatur
tats2_w         ;EGTSensorBank2                       ; Abgastemperatur aus Sensor Bank 2
tats_w          ;EGTSensor                            ; Abgastemperatur aus Sensor
te_w            ;EffInjectionTime                     ; effektive Einspritzzeit (word)
ti_b1           ;FuelInjectorOnTime                   ; Einspritzzeit für EV's auf Bank1
timx_w          ;MaxInjectionTime                     ; maximale Einspritzzeit
upwg1_w         ;AccelPedalSensorG79                  ; Spannung PWG-Poti 1 (Word)
upwg2_w         ;AccelPedalSensorG185                 ; Spannung PWG-Poti 2 (Word)
uulsuv_w        ;O2SVoltageWideband                   ; Sondenspannung vor Kat einer Breitbandlambdasonde (ADC-Wert)
vfil_w          ;VehicleSpeed                         ; gefilterte Geschwindigkeit (16-Bit)
wdkba           ;ThrottlePlateAngle                   ; Drosselklappenwinkel bezogen auf unteren Anschlag
wkrdya_1        ;AdaptedIgnitionAngleDynRange2        ; adaptierter Zündwinkel bei KR-Dynamik
wped            ;AccelPedalPosition                   ; Normierter Fahrpedalwinkel
zwout           ;IgnitionTimingAngleOverall           ; Zündwinkel-Ausgabe
```


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you Sir! 

Here was mine:


```
[Configuration]
ECUCharacteristics = katak.ecu
SamplesPerSecond = 20

[LogVariables]
;Name            [Alias]                             [; Comment]
dwkrz_0         ;IgnitionRetardCyl1                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_1         ;IgnitionRetardCyl4                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_2         ;IgnitionRetardCyl2                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
dwkrz_3         ;IgnitionRetardCyl3                   ; zyl.ind. ZW-Spätverstellung inkl. Dyn.vorhalt
lamsbg_w        ;AirFuelRatioDesired                  ; Lambdasoll Begrenzung (word)
lamsoni_w       ;AirFuelRatioCurrent                  ; Lambda-Istwert
mshfm_w         ;MassAirFlow                          ; Massenstrom HFM 16-Bit Größe
nmot_w          ;EngineSpeed                          ; Motordrehzahl
plsol           ;BoostPressureDesired                 ; Soll-Ladedruck
plsol_w         ;BoostPressureDesired                 ; Soll-Ladedruck
pvdks_w         ;BoostPressureActual                  ; Druck vor Drosselklappe ohne Umschaltung auf Ersatzwert bei Sensorfehler
rl_w            ;EngineLoad                           ; relative Luftfüllung (Word)
rlmax_w         ;EngineLoadCorrected                  ; maximal erreichbare Füllung bei Turbo
rlmx_w          ;EngineLoadSpecified                  ; Rohwert Maximalfuellung
rlsol_w         ;EngineLoadRequested                  ; Soll-Füllung
tans            ;IntakeAirTemperature                 ; Ansaugluft - Temperatur
tats_w          ;EGTSensor                            ; Abgastemperatur aus Sensor
te_w            ;EffInjectionTime                     ; effektive Einspritzzeit (word)
ti_b1           ;FuelInjectorOnTime                   ; Einspritzzeit für EV's auf Bank1
zwout           ;IgnitionTimingAngleOverall           ; Zündwinkel-Ausgabe
```
I will try yours at l(a)unch !


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I'm still encountering the same issue... I played with fast / slow and other ones, always the same; I could have it worked for 15 seconds... while VCDS is always ok, btw I used and I made curves since Stuard does not like raw data  :










Still using same site for picture hosting...

=> Well I changed the DV by a genuine one and it's much worst in term of boost, I could see that the small hose going at the top was not easy to tight, especially on the genuine where the tube lenght is shorter than the Forge one. If there was a leak on this interface, would it make this effect ?

Thanks guys


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Something I havent done.....  
Since having colour mfa I havent needed or tried to do any logging on my own car....

the colour mfa is reading a lot of VCDS style data that the dashboard didnt before, it may be clashing with the port when trying to use me7logger.

Can you turn it off with the reset buttonlike before, if you can try that and see if it works.

I do have liquid TT and it does appear to work fine with colourmfa also running but I wonder if it is blocking me7logger when you are trying as that is a more sensitive tool.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Wak, Ok I'll try this to see if that's better !

I have installed the Forge DV... Still 1600mBar as max boost hence there has been some degradation and it's not coming from DV, N75. Is there any debug I can do on the wastegate like tightening the screw ? (debug only)

Thanks


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hi Wak, Ok I'll try this to see if that's better !
> 
> I have installed the Forge DV... Still 1600mBar as max boost hence there has been some degradation and it's not coming from DV, N75. Is there any debug I can do on the wastegate like tightening the screw ? (debug only)
> 
> Thanks


Ultimatley all the mapping settings drive out the final N75 value so, if you are at 95% then its asking for all it can give. 
Next is to check for Wastegate crack pressure to be 5.5psi (on a k04 225) is when it starts to move, you need a pressure gun and gauge to check that. 
Beyond that its a proper leak test
95% duty plus WG set properly plus no leaks should equal good boost profile.

If all the above is fine then I dunno.... it gets expensive because it starts to point to turbo health.... pull tip and see if it is free spinning although journal turbos dont spin like ball bearing turbos, make sure it is not dragging a lot.

1600mbar (inc atmospheric is bad) 1600 not inc, ie. 1.6 bar is ok, its what it holds..... 1.1 to 1.2ish bar is the range it should be in near redline, if not more, if all is healthy.


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What lead are you using with me7logger?

It didn't work on my S3... something to do with k-line not being clean, even though vcdslite worked okay why it. And I am on my second ebay cable after 4 or 5 years. And sometimes going over a bump will lose contact.

Have you tried a different port on your laptop?


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I confirm that 1.6bar includes atmospheric, yeah I'm missing close to 1 bar... it's worst than several month ago.

I did not ake the debug of colorMFA but for the cable I bought it through the bay, I'll try this week some trials but I do think that turbo should be replaced, anyway I want to keep my car forever and assuming I'll make another 200k Km I'll be dead since I'm driving around 5k Km per year ! 

My only concern is to find a good mechanic in south of France... not famous for !

Cheers and thanks


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

I'm discussing with a mechanic that knows 1.8T quite well, I might replace turbo in coming 3 weeks.

I have 2 questions for you experts  :
- I can see on some websites that before replacing turbo you have to make 2 engine "rinsing" (correct term ?!) ?
- Do you suggest any other replacement aside from the turbo like downpipe ? etc ?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

katak said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm discussing with a mechanic that knows 1.8T quite well, I might replace turbo in coming 3 weeks.
> 
> ...


I Can only say you need to be certain its been properly reviewed, proper leak tests, proper logging to confirm what the ecu is doing and the leak tests to ensure you dont have a problem other than the turbo.

have you pulled the tip to feel the turbo spinning and play.

I have a customer that bought a new engine and turbo because he couldnt come back to me to review his car, he came back to me after still having no boost and I found a cracked intercooler in 10 mins.

His 1.8T experts removed the cracked front mount with the 8" crack on a weld front facing and staring them in the face and replaced it to do the engine and turbo swap.

Just hope you are confident on the diagnostics so far. :?


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If you are going as far as changing the turbo, why not change the exhaust manifold and downpipe to 3inch. Don't get a relentless tubular manifold (or a Chinese copy) they all seem to crack. The #chinafold is a popular replacement but you want it ported and make sure it is the newer version from aliexpress. You will want to modify the dogbone mount with a powerful bush as the engine tipping will make the 3 inch downpipe hit the tunnel or prop shaft

Lots of turbo replacements are because of turbo failure, so the fitment instructions will include ensuring the pickup is clean and oil pump is healthy and oil feed pipe is replaced. And it is correctly lubricated before starting the engine.


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

StuartDB said:


> If you are going as far as changing the turbo, why not change the exhaust manifold and downpipe to 3inch. Don't get a relentless tubular manifold (or a Chinese copy) they all seem to crack.


I'd like to know if this is true when the turbo is properly braced as Ive heard of a few that are running fine.

The Issue I believe is that the OEM brace is precise and doesnt fit the turbo when aftermarket manifolds are moving the turbo by small distances and people have just decided not to use anything putting all the stresses of engine movement and exhaust movement (which is like have long leverage) into the Manifold as it becomes the weakest link.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you for your feedback, I have a rendez-vous on monday then I'll think of this project / issues, etc...

I have to admit Wak that I did not pull the TIP, I'm too afraid not being able to put it back there... 
Meanwhile I'll make a leak test this week.

Concerning the manifold, I have found this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000179597129.html
=> It looks like some tuning have to be done which it not in line with project requirement since the mechanic won't accept this; so far I have to keep mine, perhaps a downpipe replacement is still possible with a quality one like 42DD.

Cheers


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

@wak my assumption was related to the heat, not vibration. Although, some people might have no problems (so no need to mention it on a forum), I have only heard of people getting a free replacement from relentless and that cracking too. I bought a cheap Chinese copy, but it was a rubbish fit on the head, and looked a real pain to connect to the turbo..

Yeah, that's a cast stainless steel 'Chinaford v2' I bought some carbine bits and widening the 4 tubes to the same a width as the stock one. And opened up the collector inside and lip. But it looks nothing like when Badger5 were getting them cnc'd.

Hears a video of porting with a drill..you can see a spacer too, I should have maybe done that.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thanks for the information, as you are talking about drill, I will avoid future complex discussions with the mechanic..; 

I'll go for he turbo only and perhaps a genuine manifold with bolts if I can find one, mine is actually all very old looking and perhaps to be replaced.

Thx


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi, I winkled the manifold this week and after full installation, I still have same trouble, all noses were checkedrelated to manifold:










I'll check with mechanic for planning !


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hey,

This week-end I made a boost leak test:
- I disconnected the body throttle and put a cap in the input nose
- I removed the oil cact can and put a cap in the TIP

I increased pressure and it stops at 0.6bar (might be the hasard, I have same value limitation on VCDS), I can hear bubble in the engine... Is it coming from the turbo oil feed ?

Aside from that I did not hear any leak, there must be one if I'm limited at 0.6bar right ? 

Thanks


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

The bubbles are from the oil return. Had me thinking when i tested mine.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Ok thanks, so what was the purpose to block the body throttle ?
(I though it was for this..)


----------



## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

katak said:


> Ok thanks, so what was the purpose to block the body throttle ?
> (I though it was for this..)


The air pressure gets past the turbo seals.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

OK so it means I get an abnormal behavior right ? another reason to push the replacement if I do catch.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

I have replaced the autobahn88 TIP by a forge TIP, the boost is still at 0.6bar.

I have moved the turbo blade / rod and this one is moving around 1mm, not sure if that's ok ?

My next action is to replace the turbo output hose by a forge one too.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

The turbo output hose has been replaced, I have the same boost loss... I'm good to definitely replace the turbo I think when I get money, around 2k€.


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If it was me, and I was being really careful....

I would disconnect the pipe going to the actuator. If the boost is still low, I would replace the actuator, if the boost is still low then replace the turbo...

if the boost is much more? then the air is still going to the actuator from the n75... via map or intervention.

Just be really careful you only want to prove it goes past 0.6 bar and not see if it goes to 3bar.... and causes a fire.


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Yes I see your point Stuart by blocking the wastegate... Hence I have to be careful with the accelerator pedal ! 

I tighten the wastegate btw last week with usual settings of 3 turns and I got 0.1bar increase for your information.

I'll try that then, thanks


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

StuartDB said:


> If it was me, and I was being really careful....
> 
> I would disconnect the pipe going to the actuator. If the boost is still low, I would replace the actuator, if the boost is still low then replace the turbo...
> 
> ...


I was very soft and could see a 1.48 bars on my colormfa boost reading ! 

I imagine that wastegate is dead and I have to replace it, any link with genuine or quality one ?

Thanks a lot for your dangerous advice but great and cheers :mrgreen:

EDIT: I misread, since boost is there then actuator is fine and n75 signal is not correct hence I should check the map?butiit worked fineffor aa year withtthis mmap ...


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I'm hating myself... N75 was 180° rotated... :roll:

All is better as you can see but still the boost is decreasing and not following the desired one:










As you can see performance is ok in term of 80-120Km/h: 3.8s
The Maf is showing a max of 190g/s hence 238hp, quite small but due to lack of pressure at high RPM right ?

I'm putting the both log I made this day, I was looking for N75 duty cycle in ME7logger but I could not find it... I know Stuart you are the expert, do you know which parameter is following that ?

What should I do now ?

PS: the good thing is that with N75 in opposite side, we may guess the wastegate psi trigger without any pressure test... [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

ldtvm 
WastegateDutyCycle

94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
94.9219
92.1875
90.625
86.7188
83.2031
79.6875
77.3438
73.8281
69.5313
66.0156
62.8906
59.7656
58.5938
58.2031
57.4219
56.25
55.8594
55.4688
54.6875
53.9063
52.7344
51.9531
51.1719
50.3906
49.6094
48.8281
47.6563
46.875
45.7031
44.9219
44.9219
44.9219
44.5313
44.1406
43.3594


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Thank you Stuart.
here are new cuves with N75 & genuine DV / N75J (as Wak said, there are hiher boost like spikes... I'll keep N75E for sure):




























Anyway I get same behavior either the HW I'm using... i assume now that I need to talk with the guy who made the mapping since N75 is requesting value close to 90% ?

EDIT: Engine load is following boost pressure as per graph #3


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Cannot see your images, and cannot comment on tuners maps.

I just look at AFR, overall timing, knock sensor ignition retard, maf g/s and more recently 'speed versus rpm' as that has highlighted, the car needs to be back on the drive and sorn... to replace my clutch


----------



## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Stuart,

Ok so you propose your services right ? 
I may be interested, I'm actually having a multimap for Ethanol & RON98, i'd like to keep that if possible...

Anyway I'll replace the HFP36 by a DW65v to ensure that fuel delivery is ok especially since with ethanol car need around 30% more fuel.

Thank you


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

As a beginner.. i only gently update my own car. That way if it breaks it is only my fault and didn't hurt anyone else's car.

But... I can look at your logs and highlight if anything within my limited knowledge seems off, but realistically nefmoto is a whole forum full of people with far more experience and can provide help for what needs changing to rectify. Or you need a custom tuner. I cannot remember whether you got a distance map or an in person map? If you like zip the bin and I can compare it with a stock and generic stage 1.
I cannot remember all the changes and replacement parts you have used. My generic Stage 1 S3 map was rated at 243bhp, if you have a stock k04 turbo and actuator and injectors etc.. you are welcome to try that, but I think it needs a little more fuel as it is essentially a QS load and timing update... so is only 0.95 lamfa on WOT.

It'll be great to see how your ethanol upgrades go, what else needs changing as I thought ethanol eroded some of the seals around injectors etc


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello Stuart, All,

I finally made a run this day for different purposes and i'm still meeting the issue I got:










My Injectors are 630cc Bosch, since I'm using E85 I though that the pump was too weak but with a brand new DW65v it's still the same... My next run will be with RON98, this will decrease the fuel flow of 20/30%, I'll discard the pump like this definitely.

After that I'll spare money for a Turbo replacement, can't be a bad bet if I want to keep this car for years (130 Kmiles so far).

I have attached the log FYI

See you

PS: that was a distant map and the tuner doesn't look to be "alive"... as a multimap (E85, RON98, Mix, valet mode through clutch pedal and cruise control), it's quite tricky to dig into this due to "template" ECU requested.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Where is the full log?

Do one with 98 Ron, so the AFR can be checked not sure what e85 is supposed to be ?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

I attached it in my previous post.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

what makes you think you remap is only 225 bhp?

or are you worried about not holding 1.4 bar?

I took a clean 3rd gear pull from your 20000 row spreadsheet. (just stop and start me7logger before doing a pull)

you go up to 24 psi then drop down to 16psi none of that 225bhp - probably not related to fuel

thats quite an aggressive map for stock rods.










View attachment katak.csv


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi Stuart, thanks for your analysis.

The main request to my "dead" tuner was to ensure torque would not kill rods... 

So I made research on safe values and I though:
- Being under 400N.m was fine: here I'm just below on the curves and that's what found colorMFA during the runs, the fact you say it's agressive it's about torque value ?
- I was expecting with E85 (85% Ethanol and 15°% RON95) a good performance, something like 265WHP since I get big injectors, Milltek exhaust; I can see around 250WHP which I think low (do I think right ?)
- When I talk about issue, I always believed that boost had to follow the desired one, if yes the behavior we are seeing is not correct ?

Thanks a lot


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

250WHP is quite a lot - you cannot trust ECU PLOT for some of the figures but the fact you can carry about 20 degrees of timing is carrying through the power.

just because it is desired doesn't mean it is met.

I dont understand why the MAF readings are struggling to get past 200g/s - have you replaced it? I had what I assumed was a good MAF on my S3 and could hardly get past 200g/s then replaced it and the same MAP was hitting 225g/s

what TIP and Downpipe do you have?

your fuel looks right doesn't it - but like I said I dont know about what AFR etc should be with E85

I have also fixed the "selected gear" to set it back to 3 - there seems to be an issue with ME7Logger which cannot be sure which gear it is in if there is a lot of power (happens on most logs)










View attachment katak.csv


_if you do a log and want to trim out the real data copy the contents you want (not including the time) and move it to the top of the CSV under the headers then delete all the lines after your run._


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Sorry Stuart I do not know which value is good for the timing angle... I did not see any specific information on tweaker's guide. Have you a wiki on our specific engine ? 

Concerning the MAF it's quite new, it got like 2k miles, I have another one, I'll try this day.

TIP is a Forge and downpipe is genuine as for the turbo, 130k miles.

I can see on my ECuxplot that power are around 400HP, I imagine that standard settings are not the good ones for the TT, can you please share your ECuxplot settings ?

I use ME7Logger for the whole drive since ECUxplot is able to detect the diffrents runs thanks to the filter, I'll update my log for sure so that it's better to handle. Thanks for the advice

Thanks again for your feedback


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I think the timing is good as you have no knock, but maybe because of the actual load it uses a different part of the chart.

Yeah, ECU PLOT does filter the data - but it is nice to go through the CSV to find the exact place and conditions where something is happening which you cannot see in ECU Plot. but if you are used to seeing disconnected logs like VCDS then I suppose that is okay. as an example if one ECU Plot chart uses data from lines 12000 to 12500 to display AFR - but ignition timing retard is using lines 500-1000 you cannot see if one relates to the other? 500-1000 might have been on a hill and 12000-12500 on a flat road..

not sure the capability of stock manifold and downpipe - but should definitely get more than 200g/s


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

It's a little bit better with other MAF that is not a new Bosch... 262HP










As you can see there is a lot of power ! 
=> Do you have settings for ECUxplot please ?

Datalog is attached, smaller than usual ! ^^


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

what air filter do you have?

View attachment katak2.csv


its still only about 200g/s and drops down, the way I changed my settings were to align the maf g/s to matching the "about expect BHP" but I dont know about Ethenol E85 - so it might be more power for less air?

do a log with super unleaded eg RON 98 / Shell V Power etc

this log look more like what is expected based on the MAF g/s










these are my settings










and the tided up CSV
View attachment katak2.csv


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

thank you ! 

If I set 72 RPM per mph I'm getting more than 310HP, My calculation is 84 RPM per mph and with 82 RPM per mph I fnd same values as ColorMFA, 390Nm and 260HP.

Ethanol is less energetic (is it the word) so you need 20% more ethanol than RON98.

I have a brand new filter replaced 2 weeks ago, totally genuine but with Wak Box mod.

I'm seeing your second curves and I agree but checking the performance from 80 to 120 Km/h, I'm getting an average of 3.4s which is pretty good... perhaps the ECU is limiting power / Torque...

I need to make some runs to empty the ethanol then I'll get RON98 from Total company.

have a good evening sir


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If the ecu was intervening it would reduce desired load and therefore desired boost. That was the entire point of getting me7logger so that you can look at :
Rpm
desired boost
actual boost
Specified load
Load
Throttle plate
IAT
EGT
Desoted Lambda (afr)
Actual lamba(afr)
Maf g/s
Wgdc
Injector duty cycle
Ignition retard 1-4

When I was running fixed wastegate duty cycle to try and build my PID settings. The ECU noted I was exceeding the ldrxn table and ecu was clever enough to close the throttle plate as the fixed wgdc didn't allow alterations to that. So WOT went to 200% load then even though pedal was 100% throttle plate was only 30% ( I assumed it was being blown shut but it was just hitting the ldrxn setting and intervening)


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Yes you are correct engine load and boost request is not followed hence I must get a mechanical issue somewhere.
I think I have checked everything out of the Turbo itself... this will be for 2021 ! 

Thank you Stuart and Wak for all your feedback, I'll let you know in a few month once the Turbo is replaced by a genuine one.

Merry Xmas !


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

There's more than one way to skin a cat....

You may have more joy by not maxing out the turbo at 3500rpm and building it up.

Let's face it if you want 'more power' you need a bigger boat.


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Yes more than a way... [smiley=book2.gif]

Look I received the fuel pressure sensor today (3rd gear run):










=> It looks like the brand new DW65V is not better than the HFP36... that fits pretty well with the pressure drop !

I though I had stopped "investing" this year for the TT but I may need an inline pump as Wak is doing, do you have any good reference ?

The fuel pressure can go up to 7 bars, I put the sensor here:










That's the right place right ? :mrgreen:


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