# New HID replacement kit for 225



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

The 225 TT I bought a couple of weeks ago has Xenon headlights, and they're pretty much useless. I've replaced the bulbs with osram nightbreakers that cost almost £80, and they've made no difference. The headlight lens were in decent condition, but I bought a restoration kit anyway and spend an hour or so doing the driver's side headlight, again no really difference.

So I'm thinking a new kit from hids4u, will probably be my best bet now. I've seen this kit discussed on a few threads, but no conclusive answers as to whether the kit is actually better than the original setup. Also would the 55w kit be a better option, or should I stick with 35w? I'm worried that if I stick with 35w it'll not make any difference. But at the same time I don't want to blind other motorist by going too bright, just want to see were I'm going, as I have to drive down a lot of unlit nsl roads on my commute to work everyday.

http://www.hids4u.co.uk/D2R-D2S-HIDS4U- ... n-Kit.html

I'm assuming this kit will just replace the existing ballast and will be plug and play


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Did you stick with 4300k ? i took a punt on 6000k ebay jobbies cost £15 the lights are much better than they used to be, maybe you headlights need adjusting failing that try a pair of 6000k.
hth


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

I've played around with the adjustment and that's not the issue.

6000k is what i removed from the car to replace with the Osram nightbreakers. Pretty sure this is just the colour of the light, 6000k suppose to have a slight blue tint.

I'm just thinking that the whole setup is in need of refreshing, due to the age and old tech. But was hoping someone on here had done something similar. I know the HID's being dim is a common problem.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Delta4 said:


> Did you stick with 4300k ? i took a punt on 6000k ebay jobbies cost £15 the lights are much better than they used to be, maybe you headlights need adjusting failing that try a pair of 6000k.
> hth


6000K & 4300K is the colour temperature and like for like 6000K will produce LESS usable light than the 4300K.


----------



## firediamonduk (Dec 24, 2013)

As David says, The Kelvin (K) of a light is just the colour temperature of the light. I believe OEM standard bulbs are around 4300K which is also peak Lumens output. However, i always use 6000K because although the light output is very slightly lower, i find the light much easier on the eye because it is closer to natural daylight, i therefore find it easier to see things and it strains my eye less.

I upgraded from halogen lights to a 55w 6000K ultimate kit from HIDS4U. I cant comment on how much difference it will make going yours to this kit but i find the kit excellent. So excellent i bought a second kit for my other car (at the time an RX8, now fitted to an MG ZR). They are fantastic quality kits and aftersales support i have always found excellent so would highly recommend.

IMO if you are going to the hassle of upgrading, i would go with 55w as not dazzling as long as levelled correctly. When i fitted the first kit i was worried about this so i did drive bys in another car while my partner drove the TT. Drove in the opposite direction towards it, drove in front of it etc... on a variety of roads and did not see a problem. Never had anyone flash at me etc...

i am very happy with my kit and now whenever in anyone else's car wonder how on earth they can see what they are doing as halogens so much dimmer than my HIDs.


----------



## stuff1 (Apr 20, 2015)

This is 6000K HID in audi a3 with projector retrofit. TT225 has projectors already. 35W









With full beams on (seperate halogen lens + normal dipped)









If you have xenon already with nightbreakers I would guess the ballasts are probably not performing too well. You could look for some valeo 6G's. I have inferior to valeo 6G ballasts in the screenshots above.

Your really best option would be to consult with T8ups on audi-sport.


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

David C said:


> Delta4 said:
> 
> 
> > Did you stick with 4300k ? i took a punt on 6000k ebay jobbies cost £15 the lights are much better than they used to be, maybe you headlights need adjusting failing that try a pair of 6000k.
> ...


Fair enough, but compared to the old bulbs that i removed the difference is night and day literally.


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

firediamonduk said:


> As David says, The Kelvin (K) of a light is just the colour temperature of the light. I believe OEM standard bulbs are around 4300K which is also peak Lumens output. However, i always use 6000K because although the light output is very slightly lower, i find the light much easier on the eye because it is closer to natural daylight, i therefore find it easier to see things and it strains my eye less.
> 
> I upgraded from halogen lights to a 55w 6000K ultimate kit from HIDS4U. I cant comment on how much difference it will make going yours to this kit but i find the kit excellent. So excellent i bought a second kit for my other car (at the time an RX8, now fitted to an MG ZR). They are fantastic quality kits and aftersales support i have always found excellent so would highly recommend.
> 
> ...


The lights at present are probably the worst i've ever had. I'm coming from a clio 182 which has Xenon and was only 2 years younger. But the 200 mile drive home from collecting the car had me questioning whether the lights were even on at all. I ended up having to stop and double check


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

I would contact them to check if these are plug & play with original OEM xenon headlights, or are replacements for H7 type bulbs. 
It does mention projector type, but would like confirmation of plug & play.


----------



## LOWBOYTT (Dec 4, 2016)

have you tried these mate, i think they are awesome..so white


----------



## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

How much do they cost? I fancy trying the Osram Xenarc but they're much dollar unfortunately.


----------



## LOWBOYTT (Dec 4, 2016)

£55 6000K
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/D2S-Ph ... -Bulb.html


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

paulw12 said:


> I would contact them to check if these are plug & play with original OEM xenon headlights, or are replacements for H7 type bulbs.
> It does mention projector type, but would like confirmation of plug & play.


I sent them an email yesterday querying this. But not heard anything back yet.

Lights are so bad at the minute that when i've got a car behind me, it cast a shadow of my car in front of me.


----------



## LOWBOYTT (Dec 4, 2016)

jesus thats bad! wonder whats making them so bad?? dont think I've ever had lights that bad.. saying that the girlfriends Peugeot 206cc had SHOCKING lights sound like yours you literally couldnt see past 3 meters had no end of bulbs in it had to go for some super bright rally (illegal) ones in the end and its ok now - doesn't blind oncoming drivers must be to do with the wattage...


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

if your main concern is light output, I suggest you invest early on into a good 55w HID kit. 6000K is probably the max I would go as well. I personally chose 5000k as the lower you go the more light output is achieved.

I used to use a 35w hid kit, while light years ahead of the xenon garbage in our cars, it personally wasn't bright enough for night time driving so I upgraded to a 55w kit. Big difference.


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

LOWBOYTT said:


> jesus thats bad! wonder whats making them so bad?? dont think I've ever had lights that bad.. saying that the girlfriends Peugeot 206cc had SHOCKING lights sound like yours you literally couldnt see past 3 meters had no end of bulbs in it had to go for some super bright rally (illegal) ones in the end and its ok now - doesn't blind oncoming drivers must be to do with the wattage...


They really are the worst i've ever had. I've driven some pretty crappy cars in my time too. Like i said above, on the drive home from picking it up, i had to pull over to check they were actually on, and i'm coming from a clio 182 (05), so not a modern car with fancy super lighh high power lights.



Gonzalo1495 said:


> if your main concern is light output, I suggest you invest early on into a good 55w HID kit. 6000K is probably the max I would go as well. I personally chose 5000k as the lower you go the more light output is achieved.
> 
> I used to use a 35w hid kit, while light years ahead of the xenon garbage in our cars, it personally wasn't bright enough for night time driving so I upgraded to a 55w kit. Big difference.


My only worry with the 55w kit is that it'll be too bright, but if HIDS4U come back and say they're plug and play I'll probably take a punt on them. Send the Osrams back to Amazon and the kit is only an extra £40 on top. If there too bright i'll get them swapped for the 35w hit which is £25 cheaper.


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

I took my own advice and emailed them as well :lol: , no answer yet either.
I don't think 55w will be too bright.


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Update: just got this reply
"Many thanks for your email. Your best option would be to speak to an auto electrician to see what would be involved with getting this after market kit installed in your current set up. The connections are likely to be different and may need some modifications to the wiring.
Unfortunately as we don't offer a fitting service so this is not something we can advise on I'm afraid."

That's disappointing as their home page search engine brings up this very kit for audi TT mk1 2002 xenon. Seemed a professional outfit upto this point, but something seemed to good to be true with being plug & play. Almost mis-representaion.


----------



## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

paulw12 said:


> Update: just got this reply
> "Many thanks for your email. Your best option would be to speak to an auto electrician to see what would be involved with getting this after market kit installed in your current set up. The connections are likely to be different and may need some modifications to the wiring.
> Unfortunately as we don't offer a fitting service so this is not something we can advise on I'm afraid."
> 
> That's disappointing as their home page search engine brings up this very kit for audi TT mk1 2002 xenon. Seemed a professional outfit upto this point, but something seemed to good to be true with being plug & play. Almost mis-representaion.


They are just connections. They are all essentially "plug and play" so long as you know the correct bulb size the kit is replacing. (In the TT's case D2S's or H7's bulbs).

The only thing you have to figure out is where to mount the ballast. IMO, just purchase a "slim ballast" kit, and then place/screw it in place of the oem ballast and job done.


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

They are not sure about the OEM xenon wiring plugs, so it is likely to be more work than just "plug & play". Which in my book is not "plug & play".
We just need some brave chap to give it a go and do a write up [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## firediamonduk (Dec 24, 2013)

I bought a H1 upgrade kit from them and it was plug and play but i guess that just plugs into standard H1 connections, whereas you will have to plug the new ballast into the old ballast plug.

I should imagine it will be easy enough to fit and if someone orders one, it should be pretty obvious how much of a pain its going to be just by looking at it so should be able to return if no good.

I have not a bad word to say about them with my couple of dealings with them. I used Live Chat to talk to them about something which worked well rather than email as much quicker...


----------



## Takahashi (Oct 30, 2016)

Darryl_1983 said:


> The lights at present are probably the worst i've ever had. I'm coming from a clio 182 which has Xenon and was only 2 years younger. But the 200 mile drive home from collecting the car had me questioning whether the lights were even on at all. I ended up having to stop and double check


This

Admitidly, mine were out of balance, but once I raised them, I was really dissapointed, as my 172 clio had amazing lights, and the HID kits ive stuck on my bikes have always been ace


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

I got the same response from HIDS4U, which i was pretty disappointed with to be honest. Especially since there website directs me towards that kit for my car and it's advertised as being plug and play. Plus it's double the price compared to some other on eBay.

I found this link through a quick search on google though, that might help (i've not read through it yet, and never attempted something like this before):

http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-tt ... st-124571/


----------



## Darryl_1983 (Dec 6, 2016)

Finally got this issue sorted last week. Glad i didn't waste my money on the 55W conversion kit.

Problem was that the cheapo chinese non branded bulbs had burnt out the reflective coating on the inside of the projectors. So even though i'd installed the Osram Nightbreakers and everything was working correctly, the bulbs were actually quite bright, the issue was the light wasn't being reflected forwards.

Few pictures of the inside of the projectors:






The inside face should be a mirrored chrome to reflect the light, you can see this is completely burnt out.

I got in touch with T8ups (EM Tuning Lighting) on the audi-sport forum, who advised this was probably the issue, and sourced me some replacement projectors from a RS4, also had a clear lens upgrade fitted to give an extra 30% light.

Basically i've gone from the worst headlights i've ever had (dangerously bad in fact), to the best headlights by some distance. The RS4 projectors are also Bi-Xenon, so are wired up to the high beam. Couldn't be happier with this setup to be honest.

I'll update the thread or create another thread with more detail and before and after night time shots showing the improvement from inside the car, once i've managed to get a decent after shot.


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Darryl_1983 said:


> Finally got this issue sorted last week. Glad i didn't waste my money on the 55W conversion kit.
> 
> Problem was that the cheapo chinese non branded bulbs had burnt out the reflective coating on the inside of the projectors. So even though i'd installed the Osram Nightbreakers and everything was working correctly, the bulbs were actually quite bright, the issue was the light wasn't being reflected forwards.
> 
> ...


Hi,
Any chance these photos can be "reactivated"? I am having a similar issue and now looking at the reflector as the main issue.


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

The Xenon lights on my 3.2 are also pretty poor - I'm sure they never used to be as bad as they are now (dipped, ok on main beam). Put new bulbs in - waste of money as they made no difference, recently had them polished and there is some improvement but still not great.

Around town it looks like I don't have my lights on at all and if a car comes the other way on a A or B road, it's awful, when I have to dip!

MOT is soon so I am wondering what they will say - Audi failed it last year on the lights (before having them polished) but a independent garage passed it! :roll:


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

RobLE said:


> The Xenon lights on my 3.2 are also pretty poor - I'm sure they never used to be as bad as they are now (dipped, ok on main beam). Put new bulbs in - waste of money as they made no difference, recently had them polished and there is some improvement but still not great.
> 
> Around town it looks like I don't have my lights on at all and if a car comes the other way on a A or B road, it's awful, when I have to dip!
> 
> MOT is soon so I am wondering what they will say - Audi failed it last year on the lights (before having them polished) but a independent garage passed it! :roll:


I am not alone then... I have changed lots of components over the years and the one thing I haven't is the projector/reflectors.
Be interesting to hear other's experience here.
Last resort is to buy a HID 55w kit.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

jhoneyman said:


> Last resort is to buy a HID 55w kit.


Even with a 55W HID kit, it will suffer with poor reflectors in the projectors.

The solution is new projector units, but it would be good to know of new ones that are a direct replacement.


----------



## GeriatricGinger (Oct 7, 2017)

I swear my park lamps are brighter than my OE HIDs. Guess it's time to start on the headlight situation as well. Driving at night looks liek I have candles taped to the front bumper. :lol: :roll:


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Any chance these photobucket photos are reuploaded?

My Xenons are crap too and since I will be opening up the units to install new lenses as in here I would like to know whats involved...


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

New OEM front lights are very (very) expensive - the only after market ones I have seen look chavvy. I saw an advert the other day for direct replacement/upgrade LED lights for a Golf that looked factory and were being made by Osram.

Now, could we get enough people together for a group buy that would encourage Osram to manufacture LED lights for the MK1 TT? :?


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Progress re projector repair:

I found a metallizing shop who also do plastic metallizing and called them up and they quoted 15euros for repairing (recoating the projectors). I just need to remove them, clean them and take the projectors to them.

There are tons of shops, also in UK, who recoat the projector bowls, google xenon projector mirror or resilvering
example here
http://www.chromerestorationspecialist.co.uk/services/head-lamp-resilvering/

Also "Verspiegelung" (=remirroring) in German :roll:

Basically this is how they are made; the plastic bowls go into a metallizing machine in vacuum which covers them with aluminium, its similar to the chroming process but works with plastic






The alternative would be to buy chroming spray from halfords and spray them :roll: :twisted:


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

silkman said:


> The alternative would be to buy chroming spray from halfords and spray them :roll: :twisted:


Or tinfoil?


----------



## CALLAKN (Feb 27, 2017)

You sure your lights on switched to European


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

CALLAKN said:


> You sure your lights on switched to European


That just flattens the beam, changing \__ \__ to ___ ___
It doesn't change brightness.


----------



## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Experiment to see if the photos can be recovered in Darryl_1983's post:

Ooh, looks good. Save them, everyone.

Back to Darryl's post: (If I leave the quotes in place I don't think the pictures show)

Few pictures of the inside of the projectors:


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

droopsnoot said:


> Experiment to see if the photos can be recovered in Darryl_1983's post:
> 
> Ooh, looks good. Save them, everyone.


Very well done, Sir


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

I am about to post up in the for sale section a paid or Osram Night Breakers.
Been on the car for all of 500 miles.
In the process of switching to new projectors etc.. Will keep this post going with my new build and output from the lights.


----------



## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks for the pics - very useful - how easy is it to remove the projectors from the headlamp shell ?


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

gerontius said:


> Thanks for the pics - very useful - how easy is it to remove the projectors from the headlamp shell ?


Very (once the lights are out. ie bumper off) 
3 cross-head screws to take out of the light unit


----------



## GeriatricGinger (Oct 7, 2017)

In order to get the headlights out, the bumper cover has to come off (which is a known  ).. MY question is, as a result of trying to attempt this.. is how to get the 2 nuts on the right side (behind cover) off, when the smic is all but completely covering these? Is the smic removal a necessary process? Or am I missing a technique?

Thanks!


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

GeriatricGinger said:


> In order to get the headlights out, the bumper cover has to come off (which is a known  ).. MY question is, as a result of trying to attempt this.. is how to get the 2 nuts on the right side (behind cover) off, when the smic is all but completely covering these? Is the smic removal a necessary process? Or am I missing a technique?
> 
> Thanks!


No need to remove the smic. 10mm or could be 12mm socket with a nice long extension bar and you can undo the nuts by ratcheting from the wheel well side of the smic. Threads are pretty long but once well loose you can get your hand in there and retrieve the nut.

HTH


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

TT-Dru said:


> gerontius said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the pics - very useful - how easy is it to remove the projectors from the headlamp shell ?
> ...


Can you get the projectors out without removing the headlights?


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

David

Maybe, .....the screws should be visible with the covers off and the xenons removed, just depends how dexterous you are  
I did mine by removing the lights.


----------



## GeriatricGinger (Oct 7, 2017)

TT-Dru said:


> GeriatricGinger said:
> 
> 
> > In order to get the headlights out, the bumper cover has to come off (which is a known  ).. MY question is, as a result of trying to attempt this.. is how to get the 2 nuts on the right side (behind cover) off, when the smic is all but completely covering these? Is the smic removal a necessary process? Or am I missing a technique?
> ...


Thanks so much, Dru! 8)


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

In the process of upgrading my projectors to Morimoto MINI H1 7.0.
After years of terrible visibility during winter it was time to change that.

Some photo's attached and testing this week.


----------



## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

it'd be useful to see some pics of how that projector is fixed into the headlamp please.

what was the cost of the projectors ?

Cheers


----------



## CoppullTT (Apr 17, 2015)

I keep reading this over and over again (here and elsewhere) about our HID's being "old tech". This is a nonsense. The Xenon gas inside an HID bulb is mixed with metal halides. Once the igniter does it's job and strikes an Arc, the ballast (a DC to AC convertor) maintains the output of the bulb. If the ballast output dropped by any appreciable amount the bulb would not light or would be extremely dim.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal-halide_lamp

This method has not changed in principle since this was used in our cars and has proliferated since in many different 
applications.

Advances that have been made are better bulbs (worth changing your old ones for of today's good brands) and aftermarket units that CONSUME 55W rather than the more common OEM 35W. This does NOT mean that the light is a 35w or 55w output, there is no direct correlation unlike halogen filament bulbs.

The discussion about faded\corroded projector reflectors is where we should be concentrating, re-coating them would likely make a huge difference. This together with ensuring the headlight lenses are clear will give us great headlights.

Finally, it is very complicated to switch factory HID's to aftermarket HID's, this is due to the Audi Ballasts having a multi-pin canbus connector which then connect to the bulb. All aftermarket kit ballasts require a switched 12v feed direct from the battery. Now this can be done easily, but I think you would have a permanent bulb error on the MID after removing the factory ballasts. Note the 24pin connector on the back of this bad-boy - I have no idea what they are all for.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-XENON-HE ... SwXq5ZsFlh


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Nice post and good science behind the root cause.

So essentially three routes to success;

Projector reflectors 
Ballast output - Could cause the light to dim (But probably more binary and obvious)
Old for new bulbs (A given)

I stripped my headlights down and yes the reflectors were corroded and the back of the projector was thick with dirt/dust.
So the light output was drastically reduced.
Rather than re coat I bought new Projectors/reflectors and currently retro fitting these. Few fitment issues but getting around this over the weekend.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

jhoneyman said:


> Nice post and good science behind the root cause.
> 
> So essentially three routes to success;
> 
> ...


Agree on the above. Can you try to take a few pics when you fix these? Where did you get the reflectors? Cost?


----------



## Allspeed (Oct 7, 2016)

What's Smic ?


----------



## ady117 (Aug 28, 2013)

also make sure the bulb is fitted the correct way..... they are hard to fit as space is restricted... but to help the bulb has a little square section on the base of the bulb... this goes to the top.


----------



## GeriatricGinger (Oct 7, 2017)

Allspeed said:


> What's Smic ?


side-mounted intercooler


----------



## CoppullTT (Apr 17, 2015)

jhoneyman said:


> Nice post and good science behind the root cause.
> 
> So essentially three routes to success;
> 
> ...


How is this coming along? Where did you source the new reflector assemblies from?


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Getting there and should be finalised early this week.

If you touch base with 'Trups' below he will sort you out with exactly what you need to retro fit into our headlights.
You will get 2 new projectors - adapters - bulbs - brackets and other items for correct fitment.

There is some trimming required around the black cradle to allow for the new projectors - But easily done in 5 mins with a dremel or similar.

I have trial tested one of them on the car at night and it is like 3 times better/brighter - Like a new car would be actually.
Just need to finish the other then align them etc..

Here is where I sourced the new projectors:-
http://emtuning.co.uk/shop/morimoto-mini-h1/


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

silkman said:


> jhoneyman said:
> 
> 
> > Nice post and good science behind the root cause.
> ...


More photo's below of how to mount. Slight mishap with a bracket (over tightened it) but a new one going on today.


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but am considering these replacement s but also considered total resilvering from these guys http://www.dual-metallising.co.uk they are quoting £260 to do all six reflectors to better than new, combine this with the new lenses mentioned elsewhere and bingo.....perhaps.


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Baalthazaar said:


> Not wanting to hijack this thread, but am considering these replacement s but also considered total resilvering from these guys http://www.dual-metallising.co.uk they are quoting £260 to do all six reflectors to better than new, combine this with the new lenses mentioned elsewhere and bingo.....perhaps.


You're cheaper going down my route (New Projectors)


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

jhoneyman said:


> Baalthazaar said:
> 
> 
> > Not wanting to hijack this thread, but am considering these replacement s but also considered total resilvering from these guys http://www.dual-metallising.co.uk they are quoting £260 to do all six reflectors to better than new, combine this with the new lenses mentioned elsewhere and bingo.....perhaps.
> ...


I am if I only want to replace the HID reflector, but all of my reflectors main beam and fog need resilvering.

Also have you been successful in installing yours and getting them adjusted and set up for self levelling?


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Baalthazaar said:


> Not wanting to hijack this thread, but am considering these replacement s but also considered total resilvering from these guys http://www.dual-metallising.co.uk they are quoting £260 to do all six reflectors to better than new, combine this with the new lenses mentioned elsewhere and bingo.....perhaps.


£260 is massively expensive. Look elsewhere. It also doesn't really matter 2, 4 or 6 reflectors won't make a big difference on the price.


----------



## CoppullTT (Apr 17, 2015)

Guys, I recently installed the sequential indicator kit from Tom Henderson (find him on FB). While I had the headlights apart I was able to inspect my reflectors and fortunately they are in great shape. One thing I did notice was the cloudy film of crap that had built up over the years in the main projector lens. Cleaning that baby up has got to improve light output. I also took the opportunity to polish the reflectors too.










Finished article, Tom Henderson kit front (which includes DRL's) and rear, plus angel eyes.



















Tony.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Looks very nice me thinks. Details on the kit price etc?


----------



## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

silkman said:


> Looks very nice me thinks. Details on the kit price etc?


viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1487385&p=7833801#p7833801


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

I wonder if part of my issue is that the lights aren't sitting in the right position once levelled - they're certainly better since having the lights polished but still not good on dip (fine on main). Do you have to use VAGCOM or could they be manually adjusted as a bit of a trial and error?

It did pass its MOT recently but to me they seem be pointing down slightly too far.


----------



## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

From Ross-Tech site.........

Diagnostic Software for VW-Audi Group Cars

881 Sumneytown Pike, Lansdale PA 19446, USA
Shop Info F.A.Q. Download/Update Manual Upgrades Literature

Custom Search
Search 
Home 
Products 
VAG-COM
Support
Car Info & Procedures
Xenon Headlamp Adjustment
Xenon Headlamp Adjustment
Updated 03 Oct. 2007

Ross-Tech is not responsible for any damage or problems that may result from following these instructions. They are to be used at your own risk. As always, you should refer to a Factory Repair Manual for your vehicle!

This procedure applies only to older Xenon systems that use KW-1281. Procedures for specific vehicles, including newer cars that use KWP-2000 or CAN systems can be found in the Ross-Tech wiki.

This procedure details how to perform a Xenon Headlamp Adjustment on many VW/Audi vehicles equipped with Xenons (HID's). This procedure cycles the motorized headlamp adjusters to their center position so that the beams can be adjusted. This does NOT align the headlamps by itself. You still need to manually adjust the headlamps via the adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target.

If this procedure is only partially performed, there may be a DTC stored in the Xenon Range memory indicating "Headlights not adjusted". To clear this, you need to complete the entire procedure.

There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing this procedure:

Vehicle must be parked on level ground and "settled" on its suspension

Parking brake should be OFF

Ignition should be in the "On" position

Headlamps should be "Off"

Procedure for Aligning Xenon Headlamps:

[Select]
[55 - Xenon Range] (For some newer vehicles, use [29 - Left Light] instead )
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]

Wait at least 20 seconds for the headlamp motors to move. The headlamps are now in their adjustment position. Turn on headlights. Adjust them via their manual adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target.

Scroll up to Group 002. The Xenon Range controller has now learned this position as its Home position.

Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.

Note: There have been reports of lowered vehicles displaying an error message in either Basic Settings group 001 or 002. If the vehicle height sensor(s) are bottomed out, it may be necessary to bend the sensor bracket to allow normal adjustment to occur. Also, check to make sure that the sensor arms do not have their pivots facing the wrong direction as shown in this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2383036

Home 
Products 
VAG-COM
Support
Car Info & Procedures
Xenon Headlamp Adjustment


----------



## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

Thanks imartyn - all sounds a bit complicated!  :?


----------



## imartyn (Aug 31, 2015)

If you've not moved the sensors I think you can just use the manual adjusters.


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Baalthazaar said:


> jhoneyman said:
> 
> 
> > Baalthazaar said:
> ...


All setup and extremely bright - Just need to align properly.


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

You're cheaper going down my route (New Projectors)[/quote]
I am if I only want to replace the HID reflector, but all of my reflectors main beam and fog need resilvering.

Also have you been successful in installing yours and getting them adjusted and set up for self levelling?[/quote]

All setup and extremely bright - Just need to align properly.[/quote]

Yep decided to follow your lead and go and speak to Trups, very nice fella, still gotta get the mains silvered but looking forward to scaring some rabbits.

Also got the drl / strobing indicators....just waiting for the new lenses...


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Install complete and here is a comparison:-

Left are the new projectors on a 17 year old Mk1 and to the right are Matrix LED lights (a £1000 extra) on my 6 months old TTS.
Never mind the old MK1 projectors, these new ones are brighter than the new TTS and are give more clarity etc..

I too have ordered the new Lens' but on back order - At least for now I can get through the winter without struggling to see.
Will fit the new lens' after winter along with those drl / strobing indicators (Once back in stock too)

All - If you want the best out of your current headlights hook yourself up with Trups at http://emtuning.co.uk/about-us/

He is also now doing Clear Corners as per my pic too... Excellent service and couldn't be happier now.


----------



## alexperkins (Aug 20, 2017)

Can the morimoto projector lenses that daryl used (http://emtuning.co.uk/shop/retroquick-a ... eadlights/) be fitted without taking the front of the headlamp off?

If you can remove the projector in situ without removing the headlight casing, then i would think you'd be able to swap the projector using the same principle?


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

No chance can you do it from the rear.
You need to remove the front lens... IT is the easiest part of the process.


----------



## alexperkins (Aug 20, 2017)

Damn. I was trying to avoid taking the front off. Is it really that easy?


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

Yes...

The tricky part is removing the bracket (Without breaking the tabs that move the lights via the motor)
The bracket needs some shaving to accommodate the new projectors.

I have done this job lots of times and as I say removing the lens is the easy part (Either shove in the oven at low heat for 5-8 mins and peel apart or use a heat gun)


----------



## alexperkins (Aug 20, 2017)

I'm with you

What are we saying temp wise for the oven. 150C?


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

alexperkins said:


> I'm with you
> 
> What are we saying temp wise for the oven. 150C?


As minimum as possible (50)


----------



## alexperkins (Aug 20, 2017)

Super. Wish me luck!


----------



## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

alexperkins said:


> Super. Wish me luck!


Remember and remove the 3/4 clips


----------



## alexperkins (Aug 20, 2017)

Ill let you know how i get on 8)


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I was too very tempted for DRLs but given that everything is made in China nowadays I dread fixing everything up and having to redo it all after a year because the DRLs have died. And its remove bumper again, remove headlight crystal etc

LEDs are still very much hit and miss. Cree LEDS for my TT (low beam) have been working fine for 5 years now, 12V LEDs on my kitchen under the cupboards the first batch worked fine, the second batch have been flickering from day one. And its the same brand bought from the same shop :x


----------



## GeriatricGinger (Oct 7, 2017)

I have the issue of a 'less than tolerable' left low HID output/beam pattern, and a great right HID output/beam pattern (LHD). Thinking it was a weak bulb, replaced the D2S. same issue. Pulled the housings, removed the left side projector assembly. crystal lens thingy is super clean, and the reflector lens is shiny chromy look.. Could I have just a weak box for that side? There is absolutely no distinct cut-off, or 'direction' of light, as it's very dim and 'washed out' looking.


----------



## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Geriatric, did you try switching left and right boxes? Its the same part left and right


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Finally started work on mine (after buying the set from Trups in February...).
You guys must have HUGE ovens.... I tried, but half of the headlight was hanging out the door...!!
So resorted to heat gun method and the fronts are off. 

Stopped for food....., more headlight work tomorrow, it was a long afternoon getting the headlights off of the car, but it was the first time I'd taken the bumper off.


----------



## paulw12 (Mar 31, 2015)

Maybe you could do some photos of "shaving the bracket", etc


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

paulw12 said:


> Maybe you could do some photos of "shaving the bracket", etc


I'm trying to workout where it needs trimming as none of the pics so far show anything about that.
They also don't say how the black frame unclips and comes out.
So some pics of that from previous installs would help ENORMOUSLY.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

alexperkins said:


> I'm with you
> 
> What are we saying temp wise for the oven. 150C?


70C for an hour. Don't let the plastics rest on anything metal in the oven in case the metal melts the plastic.

Grab yourself some Orgavyl windscreen butyl sealant from fleabay and put a bead around the edge of the perspex when you come to re-seal everything so you get a really good, water- and damp-proof seal.

Good luck  /Al


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

David C said:


> paulw12 said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe you could do some photos of "shaving the bracket", etc
> ...


Trying to upload some pics now but be patient my iPhone is nuts. To get the carrier out you have to unscrew the adjustment nuts unwind them all the way and thus/ down one will pop out as you unwind the forward back adjuster the carrier moves forward in the shell keep going until it releases. Underneath you will se a ball attachment for the range motor this also pops off, refitting as they say is a reversal of removal but pop in yeh up down adjuster with its bevel gear before you start to wind in. Looking from the top I mean the adjuster that's in the middle...lol.

Shaving the carrier is for the brave but it goes like this take off about a centimeter from the front of the carrier all round not touching the mountings for the projector be very careful where the carrier is thinnest as you can take off too much if your not careful with the dremmel this is the point where the Carrier has a ball to fit the socket of the adjuster. Take enough off so you can push the projector through from the back and it no longer fouls on the bits that you have removed. Mine has been fantastic for a good while now so I'm confident that the strength of the remaining collar is more than adequate.

Good luck....


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Baalthazaar said:


> To get the carrier out you have to unscrew the adjustment nuts unwind them all the way and thus/ down one will pop out as you unwind the forward back adjuster the carrier moves forward in the shell keep going until it releases. Underneath you will see a ball attachment for the range motor this also pops off, refitting as they say is a reversal of removal but pop in the up down adjuster with its bevel gear before you start to wind in. Looking from the top I mean the adjuster that's in the middle... lol .
> 
> Shaving the carrier is for the brave but it goes like this take off about a centimetre from the front of the carrier all round not touching the mountings for the projector be very careful where the carrier is thinnest as you can take off too much if your not careful with the Dremel this is the point where the Carrier has a ball to fit the socket of the adjuster. Take enough off so you can push the projector through from the back and it no longer fouls on the bits that you have removed. Mine has been fantastic for a good while now so I'm confident that the strength of the remaining collar is more than adequate.
> 
> Good luck....


Thanks for that.
Careful Demel'ing is underway, you've confirmed that I'm moving in the right direction.
Yes it is a bit scary near the left/right adjuster pickup :lol:


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Progress update,
One frame "shaved". Shaved is far too mild a term, heavily trimmed is closer!

Some pics (hopefully):


































And an uncut frame for comparison:


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Couple more pics
Trimmed frame on the left, untrimmed frame on the right.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Bloody hell, you had to take a lot more off than I remember having to do - I wonder if I put the projector mounting flange behind the ring instead of in front?

In any case, that looks good. Be careful not to allow the frame to break around the left hinge point as I can see you've taken a lot off the plastic around there. It's quite flexible ABS plastic so it should be ok, but definitely be gentle when putting it all back together.

Nice to see someone using TRS kit in their TT's headlights! :mrgreen:

/Al


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Yes it is a hell of a lot cut off but I was careful near the left/right adjuster mounts.
I'm going to put some appropriate grease on the adjusters and their connection points too so there is as little stress as possible.

Both frames are cut now.
Cleaned the headlight shells.
Tomorrow will be assembly day including the wiring mod for the Bi-Xenon main beam solenoid.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Can I recommend you use graphite powder, not grease - you don't want anything which will aerosolise with heat and cause haze on reflectors, or attack the bulbs' glass capsules.

You can pick a little tube up fast & free on Fleabay and have it by Saturday.

(Ignore me if I'm being a bossy numpty... [smiley=bigcry.gif] )


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

How's the heart after that surgery David...lol
No need to put up my pics now they look exactly the same as mine...don't forget to lock tite the brass nuts n screws nothing worse than having to take nice clean lenses off after all your hard work to tighten up the projector frame..... 

When it's all back together you won't believe the difference especially if you combine it with new lenses, the main beam especially is devastating to wildlife night and day literally with the combined main beam and undipped xenon.....

Alex it does look a bit brutal but like all things Audi there's more material there than is strictly necessary and the cage is still as strong, or weak left right adjuster in mind here, as it needs to be. The fact that there is so little material at the adjustment point highlights how little stress that part of the mechanism is under with the up down adjuster and the ptfe slider taking most of the weight and vibration. Good luck with yours buddy....


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Baalthazaar said:


> How's the heart after that surgery David...lol


I'm resting on a drip now...

First one was very scary.
2nd one was a much quicker calmer experience.


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Brilliant you won't regret it it's one of those upgrades that really bring the TT up to date.


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

There has been a little delay, but they are finally back together and ready to refit.










Well worth relocating the HID igniter while you have the headlights split.
This is now Velcro'd to the back panel. So replacement will be easy if/when it fails.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Tidy job there! Where did you get those mounting brackets from? Are they part of a kit?

/Al


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

alexgreyhead said:


> Tidy job there! Where did you get those mounting brackets from? Are they part of a kit?


For the projectors? Yes they are part of the kit and to be honest the biggest reason I went that route as there shouldn't be any alignment issue.

Slightly more delay now as this morning I tried to apply the protective film that BIMMERJakes supplied with the new fronts and failed miserably.... ripped that off and now seeking professional help...


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Ahh yes, it's much better to have a kit that doesn't have any wiggle room in the rotation - nothing worse than having a wonky projector (as I well know [smiley=bigcry.gif] ).

What was this protective film? Does it need heat to be applied?


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

alexgreyhead said:


> What was this protective film? Does it need heat to be applied?


UV protection.
Needed heat to stretch to the 3D curves..... but got a few too many creases in the process ... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Interesting - hadn't thought of looking for that! Is that needed on yours because your headlight covers don't have the OEM UV protection anymore or is it just an extra layer of UV and stone protection?

(Sorry for all the questions - just in a nosey mood...  )


----------



## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

alexgreyhead said:


> Interesting - hadn't thought of looking for that! Is that needed on yours because your headlight covers don't have the OEM UV protection anymore or is it just an extra layer of UV and stone protection?


Bit of both.
I'm under the impression that the new covers don't have any UV protection, so either need some sort of film applied or spraying.
It has cost a reasonable amout so far, so I don't want to skimp at the last stage.


----------



## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

David C said:


> I'm under the impression that the new covers don't have any UV protection


Oh! Well in that case, definitely worth adding some protection.

It's just occurred to me that maybe I should look into the same - I wonder if I can get that 3M protection film to fit over the headlight perspex?


----------

