# Top Mount DIY- to all the DIYer



## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Hi All,

I am planning to change the top mount as it is very worn and making knocking noises. I am on KW V1 coilover at the moment.

Here is steps which I have gathered on the internet including this forum:

Remove the top nut that holds the metal cap
Then remove the top nuts that hold the bushes. ( I have been told that I need to some tools to hold the strut when I turn the nuts)
Jack up car
remove wheels
remove drop link 
place trolley jack under the hub
lower the strut to allow room to change the mount and bearing
then reverse the process.

PLease let me know if this is ok or any advise?

Since I have not got the right tools, here is number of them that I have been thinking, which to go for?

1 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Value-71 ... 83&sr=1-34

2 http://www.tooled-up.com/product/draper ... et/176816/

3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/94-Piece-1-4- ... 20c93b2e5f

4 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rolson-52-Pie ... 20bb1eb4a1

cheers


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## CRU57Y (Feb 3, 2013)

polowoof said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am planning to change the top mount as it is very worn and making knocking noises. I am on KW V1 coilover at the moment.
> 
> ...


My advice would be to buy only "QUALITY" tools you need for that job. Then as you go along add to your collection of "QUALITY" tools. Buying a box full of low cost tools that include things you _might_ need is not the way to go, imo. They are usually poor quality.
"When price is forgotten, quality remains"

Cheers.


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

None of those have the correct tools you need to remove the tops nuts: 22mm. You can use a O2 sensor socket as it is 22mm.









Hex is needed to hold the strut in place while you remove and re-install the nut. Also, you will need a torque wrench to tighten it back (44 ft-lbs) when you re-install.

You can also remove them if you have an air wrench too, that's easiest, but you still need a 22mm socket.

cheers.

Edit: this diy for replacing top mount and strut bearing was posted by steve schwing (ModShack) on audiworld way back in 2005. it is still a good one.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16939330

cheers.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

what you need is ,, a large sunken ring spaner of correst size ( 22m ? ), allen key ( good quality ) of correct size and good qual set of spring compressors and correspending spanner to tighten , ( tho socket and ratchet make this job much easier  ).... gloves are recomended but not esential


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## salinemondo (Sep 25, 2011)

I did this at the weekend, My car needed a 21mm socket, used a spark plug removal socket for this. to turn it i used a large adjustable spanner. I used a 7mm brake caliper hex key through the middle of the socket. With all this the nut was too tight to remove eaven after a 30 min soak in wd40. After some advice from on her i used the wheel nut removal tool from the boot as leverage over the allen key.
I would recomend getting some tools with as much leverage as you can find as the nuts are tight!


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Guys thanks for the response!!

Now It is for sure I need the following

7mm allen key
21mm spark plug socket with a whole on top for the allen key
21mm deep socket 
21mm spanner?

To loosen it, I would have to have either a ratchet with " folk like end" to turn the socket or a spanner of 21mm size 
For this bit, can I use a lock wrench pliers to turn the socket?

To tighten it I will first need reverse the process then tighen it with 21mm socket with a torque wrench?


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

also is it necessary to have wheel alignment done again ?

I am going to undo two parts only top mount nuts and droplinks.


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

anyone plz?


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## ades tt 180 (Jun 19, 2011)

I would say that you dont need a wheel alignment as the top of the strut is going back in exactly the same place. Unless the old mounts were absolutly knackered causing tbe strut to wobble about.


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## stewbieTT (Jun 23, 2012)

It would be worth checking what size your top nut is if you already have aftermarket suspension fitted, it may not be OEM sized.
OEM nut is 21mm but my Bilsteins came with a larger nut size (though the same thread size :? ) which meant the spark plug socket I used to take my old struts off wouldn't fit when I came to tighten up the new struts. Fortunately I'd already bought new OEM nuts so I swapped them over to that.


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## stewbieTT (Jun 23, 2012)

salinemondo said:


> I did this at the weekend, My car needed a 21mm socket, used a spark plug removal socket for this. to turn it i used a large adjustable spanner. I used a 7mm brake caliper hex key through the middle of the socket. With all this the nut was too tight to remove eaven after a 30 min soak in wd40. After some advice from on her i used the wheel nut removal tool from the boot as leverage over the allen key.
> I would recomend getting some tools with as much leverage as you can find as the nuts are tight!


Agreed - I bought a 23mm ring spanner that was a perfect fit over the spark plug socket which meant I could really lean on it.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

i am missing something here,,, does he not have to compress the springs to change the top mounts ?


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## nelmanners (Feb 1, 2012)

Hi. What exactly is the correct sequence to change the top mounts? I got my powerflex ones yesterday and want to know how to do it before attempting it.


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

stewbieTT said:


> It would be worth checking what size your top nut is if you already have aftermarket suspension fitted, it may not be OEM sized.
> OEM nut is 21mm but my Bilsteins came with a larger nut size (though the same thread size :? ) which meant the spark plug socket I used to take my old struts off wouldn't fit when I came to tighten up the new struts. Fortunately I'd already bought new OEM nuts so I swapped them over to that.


u made a very gd point but in order to check I will need the socket of the right size to check. So I am going in circle. I think I am going to order some offset ring spanner of 22m, 23mm, 24mm incase the 21mm spark plug socket do not fit.



stewbieTT said:


> salinemondo said:
> 
> 
> > I did this at the weekend, My car needed a 21mm socket, used a spark plug removal socket for this. to turn it i used a large adjustable spanner. I used a 7mm brake caliper hex key through the middle of the socket. With all this the nut was too tight to remove eaven after a 30 min soak in wd40. After some advice from on her i used the wheel nut removal tool from the boot as leverage over the allen key.
> ...


what exact size were ur spark plug socket? I was getting the 21mm ring spanner but would this 23mm fit? It would be gd know it will not be too big to turn the socket.

Also would I be able to use the torque ratchet (long )wtih the 21mm spark plug socket to loosen it at the start and toruque it up to refit? When do the middle rod start spinning? Just thinking I would need a crow open spanner end to connect big ratchet to torque it up.



roddy said:


> i am missing something here,,, does he not have to compress the springs to change the top mounts ?


I have got coilover that doesnt need spring compressing.



nelmanners said:


> Hi. What exactly is the correct sequence to change the top mounts? I got my powerflex ones yesterday and want to know how to do it before attempting it.


http://www.r32oc.com/topic/20110-a-diy- ... trut-tops/

this is a very gd guide that tells u wt tools u need exactly. also hv a look at audi sports forum and mkvis as well


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Do any1 know if all the 21mm spark plug socket has a hole in the middle that let the allen key to go through?


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

polowoof said:


> Do any1 know if all the 21mm spark plug socket has a hole in the middle that let the allen key to go through?


a proper " sunken " ( not sure if that is correct term but that is what it looks like,) ring spanner is easiest way to do it,, with allen key,,,, ideally the allen key does not move it is the nut which should turn


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Popped down to the local halford, had at look at their 21 mm spark plug socket noticed the hole is way too small for a 7mm allen key. Tried some offset ring spanner of 24mm (22mm did not fit) which fitted but looking at the fitting I doubit its going to work partly becasue of the an angle and the size of the ring. I am talking abt the top nut that holds the metal which fitted a 21mm spark plug socket.

THought about trying some deep socket of 21mm (there is a big hole within the socket) but then none of them had hex that let spanner grip it. Or can I get a lock piller lock it and turn? it seemed like the bolt is very tight not sure if this works

I am sure some1 did it here used a 21mm spark plug socket of some sort, would be gratefull if some1 has the link for the item. Glad that I checked before I randomly bought it online.

At the moment I have a torque ratchet 1/2 drive, I was hoping to use it loosen the nuts, would that spin tho? same question when u re-install it...

Been searching for the last few nights...seems like process itself not too hard but the tools are night mare for some1 who had not much tool


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## Grahamstt (Jul 22, 2008)

Should be self explanitary [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Grahamstt said:


> Should be self explanitary [smiley=cheers.gif]


What socket did u use? where did u get them from? I find it very difficult to tell on ebay which one has a slot that is big enough for the 7mm allen key to go thro. Did you torque it when u finish?

Just out of interest guys, if I loosen all the nuts when the car is on load and do the same when refitting, would this be possible prevent the rod from spinning ? In that way, it will save me all the hassle..


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## Grahamstt (Jul 22, 2008)

It's a half inch drive spark plug socket so will have enough room for the extended allen key socket.
I ground the flats onto the socket using a rotary grinding wheel, the weight of the car shouldn't help cos the rod is from the damper which doesn't carry the weight of the car

All will become obvious when you start


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Grahamstt said:


> It's a half inch drive spark plug socket so will have enough room for the extended allen key socket.
> I ground the flats onto the socket using a rotary grinding wheel, the weight of the car shouldn't help cos the rod is from the damper which doesn't carry the weight of the car
> 
> All will become obvious when you start


Thanks for the prompt reply! Do all 1/2 drive21mm spark plug socket have the same size slot in middle that allow u to put the allen key all the way from the top to bottom? jus that I saw some 3/8 spark plug socket had a tiny hole that not even a 3mm allen key can go through.

do the rod normally turn when the steering turn?

Also did u torque it up at the end or jus hand tight it? Can u hand tight it as far as u can then torque it up without the allen key? Otherwise I would probably need this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-DRIVE-CRO ... 3f16efb3fd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-DRIVE-TOR ... 20c58faa38

Is this a gd tool in terms of the torque range?i.e. I can do this job as well as other job like brake upgrade. Just wanted to get the right ones.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Grahamstt said:


> Should be self explanitary [smiley=cheers.gif]


That's exactly what I did - only my Koni coilovers have a hex head on the top of the piston rod so I had to insert a 1/4" bar and socket which fitted inside the spark plug socket - once the rubber insert was removed. Check what your end feature is - it might not be a hex socket - certainly not if they are adjustable from the top.

What you can also find is that the strut top feature wears off rounded. In that case you need a good fitting socket on the nut with a good size ratchet - hold it steady taking up the backlash and give the ratchet handle a sharp fast blow with a mallet. The impulsive torque and inertia of the piston rod will cause the nut to loosen.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

you can also put a pair of mole grips throo the spring and grip the piston


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Got to be very careful you don't damage the smooth piston rod though. It's Ok if you dont care about it when taking it off but if you want to re-use the strut damper be careful. I tried this with rubber tape wrapped round the jaws but couldn't get it to grip well enough and I got too woried about damage, if the jaws bit through the rubber.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

John-H said:


> Got to be very careful you don't damage the smooth piston rod though. It's Ok if you dont care about it when taking it off but if you want to re-use the strut damper be careful. I tried this with rubber tape wrapped round the jaws but couldn't get it to grip well enough and I got too woried about damage, if the jaws bit through the rubber.


+1


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

I managed to undo the top mount nut but then I got stuck from removing the drop links from the strut. I removed the drop links bolt but unable to take the actual thread rod out of the strut. I did jack up the ball joint to reduce tension on the drop link and noticed it helped. But it still got stuck and cannot pull it out! I am jus guessing it is the angle which is likely downwards? hence got stuck. Anyone has tips one this???

I had a look at the stock suspension one removed and it was so easy to remove it!!!


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Does it matter if I jack up only one side ? Would jacking up both side help?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If you've got the nut off perhaps the threaded bolt part is stuck with rust. Try a sharp tap with a hammer or some heat, WD40 etc.


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## stewbieTT (Jun 23, 2012)

polowoof said:


> Does it matter if I jack up only one side ? Would jacking up both side help?


Yes - I found this, there is less tension on the ARB and hence droplink when both wheels are at a similar level and close to normal ride height. Putting the car on axle stands and having two trolley jacks helps with this


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

I managed to get it off after taking off that part that attached to the arb and changed the top mount. The nuts that held the bush was not very tight and I could just take it off without spinning the rod in the middle.

But I could not do the other side as the spark plug hole was too small for the rod and it was much tighter.

Here is the difference:










Knocking noise was only coming from the passenger side which I could not change for the above reason. For the driver side, it was fine but now I get some different knocking noise with the new top mount and bearing def no where near as bad as the other side. I feel like I have made it worse.

My question is:

A: would it be due to the parts? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strut-Top-Mou ... 4848531931

B is there anyway that I could install it incorrectly? top-plate on the collies, bearing, bush, nuts, plate nuts again.

I think I will just take it off and re-install it to see if it helped. IF not solve, I can just order another top mount from ECP see if it cures it.

Cheers


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Hey D, nice to meet you yesterday 

I recently bought new top mounts, but haven't had them fitted yet. Before I bought them (SKF from ECP) I was told by a few people on here, in no uncertain terms, NOT to buy eBay top mounts.

They may be fine, but just wanted to pass that on to you mate...

PS : there was a set of carbon door pulls in the for sale section yesterday from member bigbison. Not cheap though ! But at the very least, replace that drivers door pull ! Hehe


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

thanks for the info........lets see if the same happens on the other side.

btw nice to meet u and ur carbon fibre lol :lol:


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

anyone?


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Guys,

Am I meant to be putting some grease outside the bush and as well as inside?
I saw this

http://public.fotki.com/martt/audi_tt/m ... ng035.html

http://public.fotki.com/martt/audi_tt/m ... html#media

If lubricate this bit, It will help it turning when u turn the steering ? Is this right?

I just found out that I put the bearing upside down. I am just trying fit it as correctly as possibly

ANYONE can shed some light?


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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

[smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## stewbieTT (Jun 23, 2012)

You don't really need to grease the top mount IMO, I did give a quick spray of silicone lubricant but all it's there for is to help the mount push up easily into the turret when you tighten the top cup. The mount does not turn in the turret when you steer, instead the strut centre turns using the bearing. Fitting the bearing up side down is not a good thing I suspect


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

did anyomne find a way (tools) to torque the nuts coorrectly?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Hacksawcats said:


> did anyomne find a way (tools) to torque the nuts coorrectly?


From another thread:



Hacksawcats said:


> Did anyone manage to torque the top mount nuts when they changed the rubber mounts? And if so how did you manage to do it? Many thanks


The standard shocks have a hex key female socket end to hold the piston whilst tightening the big inner nut clamping the rubber mount to the piston. Some adjustable shocks (e.g. Koni) have a small machined male hex around the adjuster on the piston to do the same. The outer big nut clamping the big dished washer is not usually an issue once the inner nut is clamping.

Both counter holds have the difficulty that a standard 1/2" drive socket on a torque wrench holding the large nut obscures the smaller counter hold hex.

Swap them round. Use the torque wrench on the counter hold in reverse direction and a large deep ring spanner or deep spark plug shocked with hex top flats with another spanner on the big nut. The spark plug socket may need the rubber inset removing to allow a 1/4" socket, extension and 1/4"-1/2" adapter for the torque wrench to piston male hex (e.g. Koni) but a long enough hex key (standard piston) on the torque wrench will probably go through the rubber.

You can get hollow drive sockets/driver sets to get round the problem in a similar way.

You can hold the piston below but without adequate Mole wrench jaw protection you risk damaging the polished piston shaft (so not recommended).

Garages tend to use an air gun against the inertia of the piston and whilst it might be possible the gun might have a torque slip setting I think most just guess.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Hacksawcats said:


> did anyomne find a way (tools) to torque the nuts coorrectly?


Buy the tool for the job, yep it's a pita buying a set to use one socket but if you are bothered to do the job properly the options are slim, 21mm open side socket and a allen key to hold the strut still.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Delta4 said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > did anyomne find a way (tools) to torque the nuts coorrectly?
> ...


OK, Fair enough. Would this do the job??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-SX040 ... SwUF1epYXK

Regards


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

I Used one of these:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
You can then use a 17mm crowsfoot spanner on the Torque wrench to get it tight


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Essex2Visuvesi said:


> I Used one of these:-
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1
> You can then use a 17mm crowsfoot spanner on the Torque wrench to get it tight


Hi, Sorry if I'm being thick: But could you give me an "idiots guide"?? I can tighten the nuts up ok using an impact wrench, so what would I need the KS Tools 916.4071 TRIPLEplus go-through socket, 19mm, 21mm for? And if I've understood you right: then torque the nut up using a 17mm crowsfoot spanner? But isnt that the wrong size? (21mm) and I dont think the crowsfoot spanner would fit in the space if this is what you mean
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stahlwille-STW ... B000X29G6Y

Plus the price!

Please for give my numtyness !


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If you use an air impact wrench, unless it has a torque slip function, you will just be guessing the torque but it's what most garages do. More to the point, you won't be using a torque wrench or a counter hold hex key or funny socket in that case either.

Usually a crow's foot adapter is to connect the torque wrench into a long socket that has flats etc but then you need to calculate a different torque setting because the torque is measured at a distance from the centre which introduces error. You can make your own out of a cheap adjustable spanner - see my Sig strip How to about steering rack tie rods.

But an air gun impact impact wrench will likely overtorque it anyway so subsequent use of a torque wrench would be pointless.

As I mentioned previously a large spark plug socket will fit the big nut and if you take the rubber insert out you can get a hex key through and if that's on a 1/4" drive you can put a torque wrench on the small counterhold and a big spanner on the flats of the spark plug socket. Tighten one against the other until the torque wrench goes click. That's cheapest if you have the bits already.


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## rlszer (Jun 9, 2014)

I use a sparkplug socket, Allen key and crowsfoot.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Thanks for the advice and for being so patient! I'll re-visit again in a couple of days .Once again, sorry for being a pain!

Cheers


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

John-H said:


> Usually a crow's foot adapter is to connect the torque wrench into a long socket that has flats etc but then you need to calculate a different torque setting because the torque is measured at a distance from the centre which introduces error. You can make your own out of a cheap adjustable spanner - see my Sig strip How to about steering rack tie rods.


Every day is a school day!
Will using the crows foot make a big difference, or are we just talking a lb/f or 2?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Depends how big the crow's foot - the distance between centres of the nut to torque wrench ratchet - and the distance to where you pull on the torque wrench handle. You could easily over torque by 20% or more just setting it normally. There's a formula to work it out - see here: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=735968


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

John-H said:


> If you use an air impact wrench, unless it has a torque slip function, you will just be guessing the torque but it's what most garages do. More to the point, you won't be using a torque wrench or a counter hold hex key or funny socket in that case either.
> 
> Usually a crow's foot adapter is to connect the torque wrench into a long socket that has flats etc but then you need to calculate a different torque setting because the torque is measured at a distance from the centre which introduces error. You can make your own out of a cheap adjustable spanner - see my Sig strip How to about steering rack tie rods.
> 
> ...


Hi John!
OK, don't shout at me now! I think I've got my thick head round it now. Please find attached a crude diagram of one way of what I'm trying to achieve? and then use the formula to adjust the torque setting to what's required?

Just a couple of points:

"put a torque wrench on the small counter hold" I'm not clear on what you mean by this!?
"so subsequent use of a torque wrench would be pointless" Are you saying that because I've used an impact gun its now useless to try and torque them??

Cheers
"


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

No, don't worry, you've got the idea with your diagram. I presume in that diagram you've got the torque torque wrench on the crow's foot spanner and the"counter hold" (holding counter to the force of the torque wrench to stop the piston turning) is the Allen key. That's fine if you have the bits for that.

What I was suggesting was that if you don't have a crow's foot but you have a long enough Allen key on a 3/8" drive or similar that can connect to a torque wrench and go through the spark plug socket, then with the torque wrench ratchet in reverse you can apply a normal spanner to the spark plug socket flats (where you have drawn the crow's foot) and tighten the big nut against the torque wrench on the Allen key until it goes click. You can tighten one against the other and it doesn't matter which way round you do it.

And yes, if you have already used an air impact driver on the big nuts then, unless you have a torque limiting setting on the gun, then you have probably over-torqued the nuts. So your torque wrench set up would go click without tightening the nut any further. You could loosen and re-torque correctly or tighten a test nut with your air gun and see what you need to set your torque wrench to to tighten it any further - just to put you mind at rest.

I saw a garage mechanic tighten wheel nuts this way once - first the air gun tightening the nuts to oblivion and then looking up torque settings on a chart and flamboyantly clicking all the nuts to impress the watching customer. I decided not to say anything :wink:


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

John-H said:


> No, don't worry, you've got the idea with your diagram. I presume in that diagram you've got the torque torque wrench on the crow's foot spanner and the"counter hold" (holding counter to the force of the torque wrench to stop the piston turning) is the Allen key. That's fine if you have the bits for that.
> 
> What I was suggesting was that if you don't have a crow's foot but you have a long enough Allen key on a 3/8" drive or similar that can connect to a torque wrench and go through the spark plug socket, then with the torque wrench ratchet in reverse you can apply a normal spanner to the spark plug socket flats (where you have drawn the crow's foot) and tighten the big nut against the torque wrench on the Allen key until it goes click. You can tighten one against the other and it doesn't matter which way round you do it.
> 
> ...


OK, Great, Many thanks for patience and LOL about the garage!


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > No, don't worry, you've got the idea with your diagram. I presume in that diagram you've got the torque torque wrench on the crow's foot spanner and the"counter hold" (holding counter to the force of the torque wrench to stop the piston turning) is the Allen key. That's fine if you have the bits for that.
> ...


OK, Great, Many thanks for patience and LOL about the garage! [/quote

Just one more thing! Does the crows foot need to 21mm or 22 just wondering if a 21m will fit as the spark plug socket is 21m so do I need to compensate for the thickness of the S P socket?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

The size across flats of the spark plug socket defines the size of your crow's foot to match where it fits together. The compensation equation does not depend on that directly but on the distance between the centre of rotation of the socket and the centre of rotation of the torque wrench ratchet and the distance to the handle - of the assembled tool when ready to turn.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > John-H said:
> ...


OK, got it know, doo! I just need to check what size spanner will fit the flat on the SPS and order the appropiate size crows foot? I think I've got there in the end!


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