# Out with the old, and in with the new! - S-Tronic Gear Knob



## anth1234 (Aug 18, 2016)

Purchased a genuine facelift TT shifter from Audi.RS.Performance on eBay, click here for the item.

Came as a shifter and boot combo to replace my worn out and ugly prefacelift shifter and boot. Was a product of me struggling to sleep one night and browsing eBay. :lol: Shipping from Hungary to Australia was about 6 business days and the seller was awesome to deal with. For those attempting the DIY, this thread seems to lay it out in the simplest way.

I bitched out and asked the VW/Audi specialist I got my DSG service done at to replace, which they did at no charge.



















Overall very happy with the new shifter. Has refreshed the centre console a little more, and continues the theme (notches around the climate control and air vents) much nicer.

But I still seem to catch myself reaching for a button on the side!!!


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

Looks great


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## neil_audiTT (Sep 1, 2010)

Neat upgrade that, Always wanted to do the same myself.

Out of interest, would it be easy to change the centre release mechanism so it fits the newer style shifter without heating and twisting the stock one?

I'd find that abit bum twitchy!


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## anth1234 (Aug 18, 2016)

neil_audiTT said:


> Neat upgrade that, Always wanted to do the same myself.
> 
> Out of interest, would it be easy to change the centre release mechanism so it fits the newer style shifter without heating and twisting the stock one?
> 
> I'd find that abit bum twitchy!


Hey Neil! I spoke to the mechanic about this, he said to quote "you'll need to change the entire shaft". I left it at that, not interested ha ha.

The thought of reliability with the twist mod crossed my mind... they said a lot of Golf MK5s they get in the shop swap to MK6 knobs by the same method and haven't run into any issues since.

Feels as it should, I'm feeling confident in it.

Took them about 5 minutes and gave me piece of mind having the job completed by experienced professionals instead of my untrained hand.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Another thing to add to my todo list!

Didn't realise Hungary drove on the right either


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

MT-V6 said:


> Another thing to add to my todo list!
> 
> Didn't realise Hungary drove on the right either


Doesn't really matter what hand drive it is where the gearknob is concerned, same as the steering wheel.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The S tronic gator is reversed on RHD/LHD cars. Unless it can just be rotated

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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

For example..


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## anth1234 (Aug 18, 2016)

MT-V6 said:


> The S tronic gator is reversed on RHD/LHD cars. Unless it can just be rotated
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Seller recommends using your original boot if you're LHD.

Or just buy a LHD model 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

Yeah the knob is identical but the boot is handed.


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## Blaylock1988 (Dec 29, 2014)

Just bought the last one from that seller. Great price. I only need the leather boot to go with my BFI shift knob (I damaged the old one getting it off the car). I'm sure I can make it work on my LHD.


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## anth1234 (Aug 18, 2016)

Blaylock1988 said:


> Just bought the last one from that seller. Great price. I only need the leather boot to go with my BFI shift knob (I damaged the old one getting it off the car). I'm sure I can make it work on my LHD.


Good luck mate! Could you show us a photo of your new knob?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I have one of these sat in my garage if anyone wants to make an offer, black leather orange stitching can easily be re coloured


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## Blaylock1988 (Dec 29, 2014)

anth1234 said:


> Blaylock1988 said:
> 
> 
> > Just bought the last one from that seller. Great price. I only need the leather boot to go with my BFI shift knob (I damaged the old one getting it off the car). I'm sure I can make it work on my LHD.
> ...


viewtopic.php?t=1219530


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## LaztSWE (Nov 20, 2013)

Changed mine a few years ago, easy job, did the cut and screw method (cut shaft, drill holes in both pieces, screw in a treaded pin) because I wanted to be able to restore it if needed (but its so pretty so guess that was a moot point)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

LaztSWE said:


> Changed mine a few years ago, easy job, did the cut and screw method (cut shaft, drill holes in both pieces, screw in a treaded pin) because I wanted to be able to restore it if needed (but its so pretty so guess that was a moot point)


Could you explain in more detail what you mean by threaded pin?


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## LaztSWE (Nov 20, 2013)

Sure, i used a 14mm long one, dont remember the size, but larger then the drill bit ofcourse.












MT-V6 said:


> LaztSWE said:
> 
> 
> > Changed mine a few years ago, easy job, did the cut and screw method (cut shaft, drill holes in both pieces, screw in a treaded pin) because I wanted to be able to restore it if needed (but its so pretty so guess that was a moot point)
> ...


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

LaztSWE said:


> Changed mine a few years ago, easy job, did the cut and screw method (cut shaft, drill holes in both pieces, screw in a treaded pin) because I wanted to be able to restore it if needed (but its so pretty so guess that was a moot point)


Hi, sorry for the holy thread resurrection :?

Why is this method so unpopular? Everyone seems to go for the heat and twist method but it seems like this is easier and less prone to messing up? Am I right? Or is there a reason people goes for the other method?

I am planning to buy a new knob but not sure how I should attempt to fit it. I'm scared to apply too much (or too few) heat and messing it up.

Thank you!


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

pedracca said:


> LaztSWE said:
> 
> 
> > Why is this method so unpopular? Everyone seems to go for the heat and twist method but it seems like this is easier and less prone to messing up? Am I right? Or is there a reason people goes for the other method?
> ...


I tried the heat and twist initially, and made a right mess of it. So ended up chopping it, drilling and inserting the thread as above. It's held strong for the past 3 years now.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

I think I'm going that route too.

Do you remember by any chance which diameter did you use?

And where did you made the cut? Right at the base where it sits?

Thank you again!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just a caution, if you break the plastic rod, it can not be replaced as an individual item and the entire shifting mechanism has to come out. While many people have done the "heat and twist" method, incorrectly heating the plastic can make it brittle and it could fail.

Another option, which does not require modifying the plastic rod, is this shifter from BlackForrest -

https://blackforestindustries.com/pages ... nobs-boots
https://blackforestindustries.com/colle ... hift-knobs

Installation YouTube video - 





https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1219530










Couple of additional forum links on this topic - 
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=285591
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1822322


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

I'm going to try cutting it and using a threaded pin like you, seems safer to me.

Thank you for your advice.

I was very tempted with the BFI (saw them on this forum) because no modification is needed, but I don't really like the way it works, the pull up motion to select modes seems very unnatural to me. If they'd come up with any sort of button I would already be sold.

Regarding the diameter and distance of the cut, do you remember them by any chance?

Thank you very much for your help!


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

pedracca said:


> I think I'm going that route too.
> 
> Do you remember by any chance which diameter did you use?
> 
> ...


I don't remember the diameter, but there is link on this thread I think?

And yes, cut it flush


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

YouTube on the heat & twist process -


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

I'd love the newer style knob in mine but the heat & twist thing looks a bit daunting.

Has anyone ever found a "how to" video of the rod insert method? 
The rod looks pretty slim, any idea what diameter pin you'd have to use?


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Done!

Went with the cut method, I think it is much more durable if done correctly.










FYI, the diameter of the rod is 6mm.

It feels like deactivating a bomb, but it looks so much better now:










Just a word of advice, make *absolutely* sure that the knob is all the way down before pushing the trigger, it offers much more resistance in the end of the travel. If you don't you could end up like me, I had to go back and reset the pin:






A task that is not that hard if you don't pull too much and the springs decide to fly off... I had to disassemble the whole knob .. and this is where it gets harder [smiley=bigcry.gif]

You have been warned :lol:


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good job. Looks like you have a slightly different version of the knob to the first post, as the metal rim on the top is different. There are so many versions

Still on my todo list


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Did you use any kind of adhesive on the thread?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

FYI - I've linked this post to an existing "How to" in the Knowledge Base so it now covers three possible shifter swaps; the _SportShifters_ knob, the OEM TTRS swap described here, and the _BlackForrest_ knob.

Both the _SportShifter_ and _BlackForrest_ shift knobs use the "pull-up" operation which does not require rotating the nylon shifter rod.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1518554

.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

MT-V6 said:


> Good job. Looks like you have a slightly different version of the knob to the first post, as the metal rim on the top is different. There are so many versions
> 
> Still on my todo list


I liked the original the most with perforated leather, which I think is the one you are referring to with the TT letters on top (mine's not a tts/ttrs), but I got this chinese fake one really cheap (36 euro posted). Maybe in the future I'll try to grab an original one, but for now this looks and works pretty well.



MT-V6 said:


> Did you use any kind of adhesive on the thread?


I didn't, I used M2 taps about 7mm deep on each side of the rod and it felt really sturdy. But that's a good point, I just didn't think of it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks like you did a good job. Do you have any photos of the rod reattached after the rotation?


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

MT-V6 said:


> Looks like you did a good job. Do you have any photos of the rod reattached after the rotation?


Yes! Here they are:



















You'll notice a small gap in between the two pieces, this is because at the end of the travel it was becoming pretty hard to tighten it and I was afraid to break it. Probably needed one mm more drill :?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Thanks for the photos, looks a better finish than the heat and twist method. I'll need to get hold of a new gear knob for mine


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looks good! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

If that gap is equal to the width of your saw blade, then the overall length should be exactly as it was before you cut it off. Since you're screwing a metal all-thread into nylon, I wouldn't see the need for any adhesive on the thread since the connection is basically static.

If you have more photos of your project, it would be a great DIY for the forum. If you want to put one together, I'd be happy to link it in the Knowledge Base. If you can, be sure to provide the source of the little all-thread rod and the drill number you used.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

I used one of those hobby knifes so I don't think I removed that much material. I think that the lever hole and the pivot are big enough to accept a difference like this though. At least it doesn't feel clunky engaging the lever.

Regarding the DIY, I used two of them from other forums to guide me in the process, that would essentially make me copy & paste them (I am not that fluent in english, and tools vocabulary is specially hard). Would it be ok to link them instead?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Links would be great!


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Nice! Here is all the info I found useful.

*Tools needed:* (by *FiftyPence *on fourtitude forums SOURCE)

_(note: this link refers to a step by step guide that involves buying or fabricating the top part, which is primarily intended for those that snap the rod using the heat and twist method. It is pretty straight forward to adapt the instructions if you are cutting the top part straight ahead. I am modifying the list to what should be used and removing dead links)_



> Hobby knife[/*]
> 1.5mm Centre punch[/*]
> Hammer[/*]
> Engineers vice in which you will grip the nylon rod while you work on it.[/*]
> ...


*Step by step guide:* (same source and minimum edit as well)



> Use the hobby knife to cut through the rod immediately above the aluminum stick.
> [/*]
> Use a centre punch to mark a hole in the bottom of the rod piece you just cut
> [/*]
> ...


Notes on this:
I skipped the 1mm drill bit and went with the 1.5mm straight ahead. 1mm is really thin and easily snaps, and if it snaps it is pretty much game over. If you feel confident use both for better results, but the risk is there.
For the top part, I used a drill press to ensure good alignment. For the bottom part I fabricated some sort of guide for the drill:



















If you try this, make sure you take into consideration that the blue rod is not right at the center of the stick. Inner diameter of the tube should be 12mm. Be sure to cut the rod flush so you can rest the guide on top (the wooden piece in my photos).

It is definitely not perfect, but for me I think it worked better than using my bare hands. You must have very firm hands if you don't use any help to drill it straight and avoid snapping the drill bit and/or cracking the rod. Also, you can skip punching the rod on the car as well if you use some sort of tool like this.

HERE is the other source I used: _COMPLETE STEP BY STEP GUIDE: DSG GEAR KNOB RETROFIT : RS3 REPLICA_ by *lakers1234* at audi-sport forums.
It is pretty much the same process, with less detailed instructions but with photos (that actually work!) which will give you a great idea of what you will be facing in each step.

And as I said in a previous post, make sure you apply proper force and the knob is properly seated before pushing the trigger. Mine went in with ease until it stopped, but it turned out it had more travel left. It is a real pain to reset the trigger, so be sure to give it a knock or two with reasonable force to make sure it is all the way down.

If that happens to you, this video will come handy:






Be very careful not to apply too much force while pushing back the trigger, if you unseat the springs, you will have to disassemble the whole knob.

Hope this helps anyone willing to upgrade.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Good job, well done! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

There's also a VAG tool that can be used to get up inside the shaft and pull the release pin back into position. If you go through the opening of the Release Button, you risk breaking one or both of the tension springs.

If you end up with a broken spring, this thread will show you how to replace them -

*The S-Tronic Knob Upgrade*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 5#p9401905


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