# What Did You Do To Your MK2 Today?



## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I didn’t find a thread like this in the forum so I thought I would start one. It dove tails with the “buy” thread. 

Today I cleaned my car and decide to take on cleaning the inside of the bonnet as the PO seems to have neglected it. I didn’t spend a lot of time on it but it looks much better. I found that Simple Green worked best. Not sure if this product is available in the UK.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

It's a personal choice, but I think adding an underhood sound insulator would finish off your engine bay nicely.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I’m wondering why my car doesn’t have one. Could it be specific for the TTRS? I’m pretty sure the PO wouldn’t have known how to remove it.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Wormrider said:


> I’m wondering why my car doesn’t have one. Could it be specific for the TTRS? I’m pretty sure the PO wouldn’t have known how to remove it.


Not all models came with the underhood insulator. 
I know diesels came from the factory with one, My TTS did not (I added one).
Not sure about the TTRS?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

My 2007 German spec 3.2 VR6 doesn't have one either.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

My guess is Audi either wanted to save money or there is a specific reason for leaving it out. Since some models have them it should be easy enough to install one. I just wonder how much they cost Including the attachment pieces.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Diesel cars had it to deaden the engine noise so that they didn't sound like an old London taxi.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Wormrider said:


> I just wonder how much they cost Including the attachment pieces.


Purchased mine for $88.00USD from Deutsche Auto Parts. (unfortunately it looks like the price has increased )

P/N 8J0863825. Came with mounting clips so no need to purchase separately 





Genuine Volkswagen/Audi - 8J0863825 - SOUNDABSOR


Purchase a SOUNDABSOR, Part Number:8J0863825 for your VW or Audi model




www.shopdap.com





Looks like you might have to mod it slightly to fit the TTRS (need to cut around the extra retaining latches)


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

I live within a hundred yards of the sea and high up. If there is much of a breeze the car gets covered in salt. So, if like today, its been windy/no rain I throw a bucket of water over the seaward side.
Previously it had been parked outside in a seaside town for three years Yet, absolutely no rust on the painted surfaces. Interestingly, it had the pro AutoGlym treatment very early in its life. I wonder how significant that is?
Anyways…. Just got the bucket of water attention today as the Volvo had to go in for a recall despite being eight years old. I treated it to a nine quid pair of wipers just to show I care. Amazingly they didn’t need Mensa Level IQ to work how they fitted.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Wormrider said:


> My guess is Audi either wanted to save money or there is a specific reason for leaving it out. Since some models have them it should be easy enough to install one. I just wonder how much they cost Including the attachment pieces.


My thinking is the same. Either was a cost cutting measure or for functional reasons.

The insulation does two main things:
-Reduces noise
-Reduces heat dissipation from the engine (i.e. keep the hood cooler but the engine warmer)
-Increase production cost due to the addition of something.

Even if we posit that cost was _not_ the reason, then there's still two different way we could think of it:
-They wanted cars like the 3.2L, S, and RS to have more engine noise to increase the driver "experience". I would not rule this out simply because Audi is also well known for using both physical and more recently electronic "soundaktors" for this purpose too. SOUNDABSOR versus SOUNDAKTOR, lol!

AND/OR

-They wanted the heat dissipation to be better for the higher powered cars--allow the hood to extract more heat to the outside than it would with the insulator on there, thus providing better engine cooling.

I think only someone that worked designing the cars...or someone that has read a whitepaper or SSP that mentions the "why" this was on some cars and not others, could give the true answer. Given the name of the part is "*sound*absor" though, I'd probably lean more towards the first possibility--that they actually wanted the higher output cars to _sound_ higher output and thus deleted the insulator.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I would expect other Audi RS models to be the same. After a quick Google search I found pictures of three 2017/2018 RS3s without hood insulation. All the other photos just showed the engine and cut out the hood.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

The insulating pad certainly isn't needed, but neither are carpets and door panels.

It really comes down to an aesthetic choice. IMO, the black pad on a white hood sets it off nicely and looks more finished than the hood with its exoskeleton exposed. YMMV.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@Wormrider Great idea for a thread. I’d thought for a while that this was “missing” from the forum. Lots of what I bought, but one can still do stuff without buying which makes this a great thread for posting up proud work done to our beloved cars. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Been a bit disappointed with my attempts to get smear free windows using some proprietary stuff from Tescos. Inside is a right pain of course whatever you use. Some bloke on ytube was recommending just warm water, a synthetic shammy leather and a decent microcloth. Tried this today. Looking pretty good TBH. The car was covered in salt yesterday and I thought a quick rinse then sponge the rear window would be fine. Very smeary and upset my aesthetic sense. Like some beautiful woman who has put on her lipstick on carelessly


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Replaced the haldex oil & filter.
I have no idea if it has ever been changed.
My car has a full Audi service history, so I actually think it has never been done 🙄

I also cleaned the screen on the pump. That was not so bad, but it is much cleaner now.
The pump has no corrosion on the outside so it has been changed at some point.
My car has 94k miles.

Old filter, all blocked up:


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Since the weather has been pleasant lately I decided to wash and wax my car in preparation for winter. I’m not sure what you all use across the pond but I’ve had very good luck with Duragloss 105.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Wormrider said:


> Since the weather has been pleasant lately I decided to wash and wax my car in preparation for winter. I’m not sure what you all use across the pond but I’ve had very good luck with Duragloss 105.


Suggest mixing 4 parts of your Duragloss 105 with one part Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). It will make the coating harder and it will last longer. After you're finished, go over it again with Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> Suggest mixing 4 parts of your Duragloss 105 with one part Duragloss 601 (bonding agent). It will make the coating harder and it will last longer. After you're finished, go over it again with Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax.


Very interesting. Thanks for the suggestion. Surprisingly Collinite is made about 25 miles from where I live.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

darrylmg said:


> Replaced the haldex oil & filter.
> I have no idea if it has ever been changed.
> My car has a full Audi service history, so I actually think it has never been done 🙄
> 
> ...


Uhh I'd say that def. has never been changed. TBH I don't think I've ever seen one that bad!  On the plus side at least the filter was presumably stopping that crap from getting back in the coupling but was probably limiting oil pressure as well. When I pulled the one out of my TT after I bought it (~115k miles) it looked nothing like that. It _had_ been changed at least once (as per service records) though. I honestly don't think yours could have been changed and look like that. Good thing you got it changed now!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Wow, that haldex filter has certainly seen some action 😲

This was mine after I had it done at the start of the year - filter wasn’t too bad and oil was relatively clear from what I could see and this was about done at about 78,000m. I did dissect the filter but didn’t take pics - just so I could see how clogged it was and it wasn’t too bad to be honest…..


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## Pittsy (Aug 19, 2021)

Fitted spacers👍🏻


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I replaced four T-30 screws in the aluminum belly pan. I also confirmed the winter wheels I bought fit my car. 









Now all I have to do is order snow tyres.


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

Threw on a newer style RS grille 😃


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

TT'sRevenge said:


> ...at least the filter was presumably stopping that crap from getting back in the coupling ...


The oil was cleanish apart from the usual slight sparkle. It was soft gunky sludge on the filter and a soft sparkly gunky sluge was starting to form on the pump screen.

I did rip into the old filter with a hacksaw (as I like to do ), but there's not much to it. Just some sort of plastic fibre based filter that was encased with gunk. Oil was still freely moving & oozing out the thing, but there's no way it was designed to be like that.
I'll post up a thread with plenty more pics.
I'm so glad I took the time to change it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> there's no way it was designed to be like that


Of course it is, it's not a service part remember 😂


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Got my UM tune today at TyrolSports. Tomorrow I need to run some data logs to verify the software is doing its job. Turns out the software is written for each tune. I also didn’t know that you can set the max boost with VCDS. Stay tuned……


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## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Had a carbon cleaning done to deal with an idle cylinder 3 misfire which I suspect was due to carbon build up. I plan on doing a full intake valve cleaning next summer.

It smoothed all out again. 

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

wsantos said:


> Had a carbon cleaning done to deal with an idle cylinder 3 misfire which I suspect was due to carbon build up. I plan on doing a full intake valve cleaning next summer.
> 
> It smoothed all out again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


Didn't you have that done when the injector was replaced?


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## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Didn't you have that done when the injector was replaced?


Nope, I had the injector replaced by my local audi specialist and they don't offer the service. I had new plugs fitted and, although the injector resolved the cylinder 4 misfire, I still had a light but enough to bother me misfire on cylinder 3. Not enough to throw a code. I was getting about 20 misfires in a minute or so as per Obdeleven when idling and pops when reversing, all typical of carbon build up. 

So I had the HHO service done again after 10 months and the misfiring has mostly stopped. I'm getting about 0-3 misfires in a minute at most, no more pops and much smoother throttle response. One hour job done on the driveway for £90. It might not be perfect but it makes the drive a lot more enjoyable. 

I plan on doing a full walnut blasting in the next 6 months at Awesome. 

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


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## Grande GTi (9 mo ago)

drove it for the first time in a month


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## iLott (Jun 22, 2018)

Matt Devo said:


> Threw on a newer style RS grille 😃
> 
> View attachment 493373


Very nice, where did you purchase this from??


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

iLott said:


> Very nice, where did you purchase this from??











For AUDI TT 8J TTRS style Front bumper honeycomb Mesh Grill grille 2008-2014 | eBay


Because you are my treasure.



www.ebay.com


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## Trackdaybob (Jan 30, 2015)

Brimmed it with fuel and checked the tyre pressures. Long journey tomorrow afternoon.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Matt Devo said:


> For AUDI TT 8J TTRS style Front bumper honeycomb Mesh Grill grille 2008-2014 | eBay
> 
> 
> Because you are my treasure.
> ...


Ha this is the exact same one I bought, even same seller...









I didn't install mine though, maybe I'll try it out next spring. Nice garage BTW!


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Ha this is the exact same one I bought, even same seller...


Mine came with the wrong color rings (so I bought a set of 8k0 rings off ebay) and the holes into which the tabs on the rings insert were not fully separated, needed to use a knife/dremel in order to be able to snap them in. The TTRS badge itself is not close to OEM quality. Otherwise no real issues.


> I didn't install mine though, maybe I'll try it out next spring. Nice garage BTW!


thanks


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Matt Devo said:


> Mine came with the wrong color rings (so I bought a set of 8k0 rings off ebay) and the holes into which the tabs on the rings insert were not fully separated, needed to use a knife/dremel in order to be able to snap them in. The TTRS badge itself is not close to OEM quality. Otherwise no real issues.
> 
> thanks


Oh you got chrome rings or black? The listing shows black (hard to tell since they have to black out the logo for copyright or whatever)... I just checked and that's what I got (black) but I was not planning on using the black anyway, would rather just re-use my chrome ones presuming the same size. Thanks for the tip on having to Dremel it out a bit.

Looks like you opted not to use the RS badge at all in that case? Yeah I was not going to use that (since I don't have an RS) so I was looking to either find a TT-S plate that fits or just the same size font badge to modify it with... Something I'm probably not going to worry too much about until next year but yeah. I was also thinking of changing out the quattro emblem to a blue one (those things are sold separately on eBay in different colours), or painting it or something. 

I'm presuming your state doesn't have front plates either which is lucky--I also have to change out the huge euro plate holder for one the proper size for here.


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## M1K3Y_G (2 mo ago)

spilt my headlights open and did some colouring in 😊 pleased with the end result but it was a ball ache!

A


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh you got chrome rings or black? The listing shows black (hard to tell since they have to black out the logo for copyright or whatever)... I just checked and that's what I got (black) but I was not planning on using the black anyway, would rather just re-use my chrome ones presuming the same size. Thanks for the tip on having to Dremel it out a bit.


asked for chrome, came with black. Not same size as stock, have to use the B8 (8K0/8T0) part. a heated knife would be a better option than a dremel TBH.


> Looks like you opted not to use the RS badge at all in that case? Yeah I was not going to use that (since I don't have an RS) so I was looking to either find a TT-S plate that fits or just the same size font badge to modify it with... Something I'm probably not going to worry too much about until next year but yeah.


didn't have it on in that pic, but do now. Not sure how well a 8S badge would fit but that will be your best bet I'd think.


> I was also thinking of changing out the quattro emblem to a blue one (those things are sold separately on eBay in different colours), or painting it or something.


many of the ones on ebay are larger/thicker and will stand out significantly (I tested a different pair), overpowering the rings


> I'm presuming your state doesn't have front plates either which is lucky--I also have to change out the huge euro plate holder for one the proper size for here.


it does, but whatever. Mine didn't come with the plate holder either.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Matt Devo said:


> asked for chrome, came with black. Not same size as stock, have to use the B8 (8K0/8T0) part. a heated knife would be a better option than a dremel TBH.
> 
> didn't have it on in that pic, but do now. Not sure how well a 8S badge would fit but that will be your best bet I'd think.
> 
> many of the ones on ebay are larger/thicker and will stand out significantly (I tested a different pair), overpowering the rings


Oh I didn't even know you could ask for different rings but looks like that wouldn't have mattered either. Guess I'll have to find those too...unless I just want to make them blue too haha. Thanks for the tips!



Matt Devo said:


> it does, but whatever. Mine didn't come with the plate holder either.


So weird/inconsistent these China sellers but I guess that's to be expected. I mean not like that plate holder will do you any good anyway. So you do have front plates and you're just going without? Some people do that here (just go around w/no front plate) but I don't really feel like increasing my heatscore lol. Had enough stupid tickets in the last couple years.


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## M1K3Y_G (2 mo ago)

And I finally figured out a way to run the bright drl’s with fogs


Pittsy said:


> Fitted spacers👍🏻


are they flush with the arch now what size did you use?


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## M1K3Y_G (2 mo ago)

[


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

M1K3Y_G said:


> And I finally figured out a way to run the bright drl’s with fogs


Looks like you have a pre-facelift car, so should have been Byte 17, Bit 4 (ON) in Central Electronics I think? Facelift cars with BCM it's Byte 14 Bit 1 in CE/BCM.

Edit: Wait or were you having issues getting the LEDs to run and not the fogs?

Anyway looks nice. That's an Mk2 colour you don't see much


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## Pittsy (Aug 19, 2021)

Yup nice and flush now, really makes a difference. Went with 13mm at the back and 11mm at the front, I think that’s probably about right, you certainly couldn’t go much bigger👍🏻


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## M1K3Y_G (2 mo ago)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Looks like you have a pre-facelift car, so should have been Byte 17, Bit 4 (ON) in Central Electronics I think? Facelift cars with BCM it's Byte 14 Bit 1 in CE/BCM.
> 
> Edit: Wait or were you having issues getting the LEDs to run and not the fogs?
> 
> Anyway looks nice. That's an Mk2 colour you don't see much


I wanted drl’s on full bright with front fogs. It can’t be done with vcds annoyingly!

thanks. It’s definitely one of the rarer colours


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Removed the original air filter cover for the first time. No wonder it had a split in the left hand top corner; not a brilliant design. I’ve given it good lashings of Waxoil on the four rubbers to see how much easier it is to remove. Maybe do a fibreglass repair tomorrow whilst replacing cam follower. No garage, so weather dependant….


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Today I done an oil and filter change, new spark plugs, serpentine belt, tensioner and the two guide pulleys.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Since we had some mild weather today i was able to mount my winter wheel/tyre setup. Pics tomorrow.










I’m not a real fan of black wheels but with the white it’s OK.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Rained all day with heavy wind. Drivers side carpet checked and its more sodden than usual. Wiper puller on its way so nothing to be done so went for a cracking drive in dark and wet. Temp gauge is a bit sullen. Flipped through the manual but only oil temp has a digital readout apparently.


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## mikelstudy (2 mo ago)

If there is much of a breeze the car gets covered in salt. So, if like today, its been windy/no rain I throw a bucket of water over the seaward side.
Previously it had been parked outside in a seaside town for three years Yet, absolutely no rust on the painted surfaces.




Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin​


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Fitted the under seat storage bins.
Now I have plenty of places to hide rubbish.
I found the driver's side is great for sunglasses.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I still don’t understand why they didn’t include an overhead bin for sunglasses. In a coupe there certainly is enough room for it.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

My Audi puncture repair goo is about a decade out of date. Quick search on here suggests a tenners worth of Tyreweld is a better proposition. That, and a second box of Halford interlocking foam flooring for when the clutch gives up. Not TT specific, but that’s where it will be used…


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> Fitted the under seat storage bins.
> Now I have plenty of places to hide rubbish.
> I found the driver's side is great for sunglasses.
> 
> View attachment 494489


In a car with so little storage (even quite difficult to reach the glove box due too low seating position) I do agree. I often run and it's a handy place to store house keys/wallet etc


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wormrider said:


> I still don’t understand why they didn’t include an overhead bin for sunglasses. In a coupe there certainly is enough room for it.


I also agree. The Golf has a place in the overhead light unit and the TT could definitely have fitted one there also, especially since there was no sunroof option. I put mine on the ashtray and the raised lip stops them from sliding around too mich


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Given the limited space in a roadster vs a coupe for storage, I’m glad mine was configured with the storage pack which provides me with two cargo nets on the back of each seat, two cubby’s in the rear trim panels behind each seat, 2 seat storage compartments and a small cargo net in the passenger footwell. Plenty of spaces to hide crap, even the glovebox .

Maybe the coupe TT could have had an option of roof storage compartment for sunglasses but not so much the roadster for obvious reasons.

I keep sunglasses either in the drivers door card or the drivers seat storage compartment. I’ve yet to run out of places to hide s#@T in 😉


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I have retrofitted under seat storage as well as the passenger footwell net. Have yet to fit the seat back nets but they are so overpriced it puts me off, but no doubt I will at some point


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I have retrofitted under seat storage as well as the passenger footwell net. Have yet to fit the seat back nets but they are so overpriced it puts me off, but no doubt I will at some point


I have some I’m not going to use, but the plastic is grey, not black. You can have them if you don’t mind taking them apart and spraying them.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

How the hell do you get to the seat back nets - our seats are slid almost completely back!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Jezzie said:


> How the hell do you get to the seat back nets - our seats are slid almost completely back!


I take it your seats don’t have the handles to let the back fold forward without moving the seat base? - pic is of a coupe, but my roadster has them on both seats. I didn’t realise that they weren’t a standard feature, maybe they were only included if the car had the storage pack option from the factory?

Do you have the storage bins in the trim panel behind each seat I wonder? - perhaps if you don’t have the nets or bins, there’s no real need to be able to fold the back part of the seat forward on a roadster, is there?


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Today I had to remove and spray contact cleaner on the fan blower again. 
Almost exactly a year ago I did the same thing. I'm not going to give up on it! It will continue to work! It will!
Sure enough, it is now working again. 💨🥳
I did take a quick poke around to see if I could take the thing apart to get the motor out and inspect, but it's cold out and the thing was not giving me any hints. So I just blasted it with the cleaner and spun it around a few times before re-fitting.

Has anyone taken the motor out of the fan blower?


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

_I take it your seats don’t have the handles to let the back fold forward without moving the seat base? - pic is of a coupe, but my roadster has them on both seats. I didn’t realise that they weren’t a standard feature, maybe they were only included if the car had the storage pack option from the factory?
Do you have the storage bins in the trim panel behind each seat I wonder? - perhaps if you don’t have the nets or bins, there’s no real need to be able to fold the back part of the seat forward on a roadster, is there?_

Nah - nothing there except the speakers and some dust. And a big round knob to tilt forward maybe 15degrees.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ahhh, I see…..guess because I’ve got storage back there, that’s why I’ve got the handle to tilt the seat forward……not the best pics as it’s getting dusk but hey-ho


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Received my black lug bolt covers today. Took a while to install as the fitment was very poor. More like 16.9mm instead of 17.0mm. Even cracked one while putting them on. Definitely smaller than the Audi grey ones. I guess you get what you pay for on eBay. Still, they look better then the grey ones.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

My garage couldn’t pull them off with the little sugar-tong pullers so when they faded they went in the bin. A fiver well spent ?


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Jezzie said:


> My garage couldn’t pull them off with the little sugar-tong pullers so when they faded they went in the bin. A fiver well spent ?


Yes, better than the silver ones In appearance. They have a lifetime warranty too. LOL.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Well the audi tyre sealant was original and many years out of date. Apparently, it’s an arm&leg to replace and your tyre man hates cleaning it out prior to a repair. Consult the book of words: ie: this forum. Tyreweld had a good press here so a tenner got a half litre can. Inflates at the same time so no faffing around with that little pump in the toolkit. 
But OS front was looking a bit deflated. Quite impressed. That little box of tricks got the pressure from one bar to 2.3 in five minutes.( probs a slow puncture there) 
top tip - take a photo or two of how it releases its cables. Packing is not my strong point and it took four attempts to pack it back without strong arm tactics.

With a Stanley knife and a sharp chisel you can adapt the original space to accommodate the Tyreweld item without it rattling around.


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## igsaga (2 mo ago)

darrylmg said:


> Fitted the under seat storage bins.
> Now I have plenty of places to hide rubbish.
> I found the driver's side is great for sunglasses.
> 
> View attachment 494489


I am interested on this one. Do you have any part number/links to buy ?


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## richydraper (3 mo ago)

Stripped a drivers side door lock assembly to clean the motor so that it unlocks on the remote. Not too bad for the first real job ive done on an audi... 3 hours total, need to leave it for a bit to check because it usually faults overnight.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

igsaga said:


> I am interested on this one. Do you have any part number/links to buy ?


I do. I even have detailed fitting pics. I'll put it into a "How to" post.

Part numbers are:

Under seat cubby (black):
8J0881577 Right
8J0882628 Left
Speed nuts x8 - N90475903


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Another minor first world problem Took the inner lining off one of my front wheels. Easy peasy; a mix of T20 torx and some funny plastic fantastic jobbies. The latter look one time use. You put the big bit in then press in the small bit to secure. To remove you tap the small bit through and the big bit just falls out with a handy screwdriver or somesuch. Sadly my local dealer who is massive in Cornwall has just been taken over by someone who is a bit more massive called Yeoman. 
This item is probably generic though VAG but the guy on the counter said his computer was down so he couldn’t sell me anything. He was very personable and probably very worried about his job so I didn’t have a hissy fit…


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@Beryl - the individual fixings (for the front liners) can be seen here with part numbers, alternatively a wheel liner fitting kit can also be bought, just depends on what you need…..






wheel housing liner Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2007 year Audi EUROPA 821050


wheel housing liner Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2007 year Audi EUROPA 821050 spare parts




audi.7zap.com


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## igsaga (2 mo ago)

darrylmg said:


> I do. I even have detailed fitting pics. I'll put it into a "How to" post.
> 
> Part numbers are:
> 
> ...


That would be great, thanks!


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Thanks for that. It’s the ‘spreader rivets’ I need replacements for. I’d have a look online but stuff is taking forever at the mo


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Steviejones133 said:


> @Beryl - the individual fixings (for the front liners) can be seen here with part numbers, alternatively a wheel liner fitting kit can also be bought, just depends on what you need…..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Just been looking at stuff online and how about £3 for one!. If like me you have the outer ‘big button’ it should be easy to get some small nuts with bolts to fit. Just put the bolt through the button with the end of the thread facing you and just fit the nut enough to pull the bolt tight and spread the tongs of the button to lock it. Slag it in Waxoil or something and if you need to remove the liner again this ‘mod’ will be reusable. Power to the people!


----------



## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

igsaga said:


> That would be great, thanks!


Interesting thing about those part numbers.
They don't match with what lllparts has: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/ATT/609/8/881/881000

See item 60.
Very strange. 
I got my parts off ebay. They fit. When opening the door of the bins the door rubs ever so slightly on the plastic edge of the seat, but it's so small a rubbing that it could be normal.
@MT-V6 do yours rub in any way at all?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> Interesting thing about those part numbers.
> They don't match with what lllparts has: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/ATT/609/8/881/881000
> 
> See item 60.
> ...


Hi, I don't think they do, but they do press against the underside of the leather edge a bit if I remember correctly


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Had about five hours on the car today( it’s new to me). A coldish night so a lot of water on the car. Wiped off most, then dried. Used a hard wax over the top half of the car. Good to get that done. I thought the paintwork was rust free but found a tiny raised spot on the edge just above the middle of the windscreen. Double-checked the front drain, cleaned and Waxoiled anything in the front wheel arch that looked rusty. Checked the fuel cap drain and the ones under the retractable spoiler. Hoovered about 750 mls out of the driver side carpet and it’s still wet to the touch. Put it back together and had a little drive


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Beryl said:


> Just been looking at stuff online and how about £3 for one!. If like me you have the outer ‘big button’ it should be easy to get some small nuts with bolts to fit. Just put the bolt through the button with the end of the thread facing you and just fit the nut enough to pull the bolt tight and spread the tongs of the button to lock it. Slag it in Waxoil or something and if you need to remove the liner again this ‘mod’ will be reusable. Power to the people!


Didn’t bother with this. Just used some barbecue sticks and added enough tape of your choice to make a diameter that will enter the hole enough to keep the buttons splayed and in place. Very satisfied as nil cost. The next owner might be bemused mind.


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

thanks ILR


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Installed new wipers today in lieu of winter coming. I’m always impressed that wipers these days fit all cars with just a few interchangeable fittings. Are car companies now speaking with each other?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> When opening the door of the bins the door rubs ever so slightly on the plastic edge of the seat, but it's so small a rubbing that it could be normal.
> @MT-V6 do yours rub in any way at all?


Do you mean the plastic edge trim? I remembered to look at mine, there is a gap of about 5mm on both seats. Can't remember if the mounting holes underneath have any room for adjustment before tightening them?


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

just a few little things










had to trim around the side hood latches, but pretty minimal










for the vents, chose to modify the vents themselves since I didn't care about opening/closing them.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Spent a couple of hours trying to climb the wrong tree with the alternator tensioner. Better luck with the reverse bulbs. Taking out the rear lights is a delight. One fastener and there out with a little wiggle. Love the design. Changed to LED for reverse lights. No rust, just a bit of dirt. Cleaned and lagged with Waxoil. Car the wrong way around to check possible improvement. Some funny odd bit of rubber marks ‘R’ so handed. Took out the left light to find this bit but no luck. Sometime for later methinks.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Matt Devo said:


> just a few little things
> 
> View attachment 494773


I need to get one of these for myself, it certainly looks a lot neater. Did you get it new?


Beryl said:


> Cleaned and lagged with Waxoil. Car the wrong way around to check possible improvement. Some funny odd bit of rubber marks ‘R’ so handed. Took out the left light to find this bit but no luck. Sometime for later methinks.


Are you still talking about the rear lights here? 😵‍💫


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## richydraper (3 mo ago)

I got service history from its "home" dealer before I aquired the old girl. nothing to indepth but proves it was "looked after" by Audi for its first 7-8 years.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

MT-V6 said:


> Do you mean the plastic edge trim? I remembered to look at mine, there is a gap of about 5mm on both seats. Can't remember if the mounting holes underneath have any room for adjustment before tightening them?


Thanks. No, very little adjustment is possible as the screws screw through the fasteners (speed nuts) into holes in the seat frame itself. 
I've got a funny feeling I've got the Audi a3 storage, but I think it's the same outer casing as the TT but maybe the door is the difference. Maybe the door/flap is a bit wider. Not sure. 
I'll see if I can find someone that has them at a meet and compare with mine.


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> I need to get one of these for myself, it certainly looks a lot neater. Did you get it new?


yes, part # is 8J0863825


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> Are you still talking about the rear lights here? 😵‍💫


Yep….


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Those little rubber stops indeed are handed and fit on a small metal lip nearest the boot lid on each side……



Beryl said:


> Yep….
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

_Those little rubber stops indeed are handed and fit on a small metal lip nearest the boot lid on each side…_
And fitting them is like solving another puzzle


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Jezzie said:


> _Those little rubber stops indeed are handed and fit on a small metal lip nearest the boot lid on each side…_
> And fitting them is like solving another puzzle


Haha. I only found this one after removing the second tailight. Removed the first get a clue of a position but it was absent. Had a search today over my drive today but it drops off into a steep gradient. So if it pinged off it could have bounced some way The position mentioned really was the only candidate but I couldn’t be arsed. Just dropped it in a tin I keep all my passwords I can’t remember: seems appropriate….


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

If I’m honest not a huge day Got the alternator tensioner off. That’s three bolts and a five mm Allen key to lock it in place. A couple of bolts to release the alternator. Once you lever the alternator out there is no going back. The movable bushes that lock it in place need to be eased to get it back in place so it’s a point of no return. 
Before getting there I read that the A/c pipes need to be movable to ease the alternator out. No problem? But it is. There are a particular clip that secures the different size A/c pipes located. Despite a couple of hours getting more and more violent with these clips they still don’t give. Despite SJP‘s exhaustive list of fasteners that runs to 27 pages I still can’t find it. I’ll just destroy it and buy another one. Life’s to short to stuff a mushroom sort of thingy. 
The thermostat has been bought and will be fitted or I’ll faint in the attempt


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Beryl said:


> The thermostat has been bought and will be fitted or I’ll faint in the attempt


Hi, Genuine OEM 87 degree I hope. Part No. 050121113C
Hoggy.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

audi dealership failed to get back to me despite my reg and part description. Noted somewhere in the forum Mable, sorry Mahle was where Audi buy this part from and add a generous mark up. Just under £50 from Europarts. Couple of cheaper options at mid thirtyish.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Beryl said:


> audi dealership failed to get back to me despite my reg and part description. Noted somewhere in the forum Mable, sorry Mahle was where Audi buy this part from and add a generous mark up. Just under £50 from Europarts. Couple of cheaper options at mid thirtyish.


Hi, It's a shame you didn't see my posts on this one which has been used with success in the past.


Mahle TX1487D Thermostat - OE Ref: 050121113C | AVS Car Parts


Hoggy.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

You pay for ignorance. I’m too new on here to pick up on such stuff as I’m currently looking at about ten probs with new car. Hope someone picks this up and saves a bucket of cash 
Your clear opinions brush aside a lot of dross. Appreciated.


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

cross purposes. Mine is a little different









mines a little different…. 


Hoggy said:


> Hi, It's a shame you didn't see my posts on this one which has been used with success in the past.
> 
> 
> Mahle TX1487D Thermostat - OE Ref: 050121113C | AVS Car Parts
> ...


----------



## checkoutmytts (1 mo ago)

Stared at it thinking, why does a sporty looking sexy ass car sound like a small farm tractor? I mean, it's driving me crazy. I guess Im going to chop of the muffler so it will drown out the clickie click


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Matt Devo said:


> yes, part # is 8J0863825


How many clips are needed?


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

darrylmg said:


> How many clips are needed?


clips are included with the padding (I didn't realize this and how have an extra bag of them)


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Spent an age deciding whether a bolt I couldn’t view easily was torx or Hex. if I got it wrong it was a whole bucket of grief. Eventually I decided it must be Torx and being rusty was making it feel more like a Hex. Had to saw off the back of of the Torx handle to get it to sit square but once there cracked easily. 

Next was releasing clamps that hold large diameter hose in place: Jubilee clips I call them.Rather than doing what they should do, ie, release the clamp, they just unscrewed themselves from the mech! This requires some funny old spanner I used mostly in plumbing the house to close the gap and start unscrewing again. This works but very time-consuming. I’m amazed that I have used this prehistoric tool so much on the the modern TT


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

My other ‘first’ today was getting the car off the ground , both sides, to get under to work on it. Pretty nervous TBH as my drive is not especially level. I found a broom I no longer use had exactly the same diameter as the rather clever wheel changer. Cut off a bit to fit in recess( just under 3 ”) and jacked it up. Perfect


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Good old pump pliers to the rescue 😉


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

They are such a clever design. What is meant by ‘timeless’ only slightly behind the wheel


----------



## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Watched the ice melt. It's all one without a garage can do during an artic blast 

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

wsantos said:


> Watched the ice melt. It's all one without a garage can do during an artic blast
> 
> Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


Look on the bright side… whilst its frozen it can’t sock yer carpets or mess with the electrics


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## MCIP (Aug 16, 2014)

Bought it and sprayed all the engines electrical connections ready for the winter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Jezzie said:


> _Those little rubber stops indeed are handed and fit on a small metal lip nearest the boot lid on each side…_
> And fitting them is like solving another puzzle


Took me longer than it should have to figure out where they went. At first, I didn’t realize they were side specific. I wonder if French TTs have a “D” and “G” on them?


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Wormrider said:


> Took me longer than it should have to figure out where they went. At first, I didn’t realize they were side specific. I wonder if French TTs have a “D” and “G” on them?


I’ve lost one and aren’t using the other. To take so much trouble to create them suggests they are vital/ critical: but for what? Nothing much other than thin air underneath so no nefarious way to soak my carpets


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I used a little bit of gorilla glue to hold them in place


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Another productive two hours! The ‘Quick Release‘ lower radiator hose is nothing like. I’ve checked other forums and all seem full of pain. I tried a heat gun but the effective coolant laughed at that. In the end I took the crude route of removing the clamp on its attached hose, gave it a little warm with the heat gun as it was +2 degrees above freezing and off it came in a celebration of pink fountain, mostly captured by the tray most peeps cook the Turkey in 
Another triumph with hose on the afterun thingy. That produced a little more coolant than the the first hose I released. This is not the same as I’ve read. Assume it’s due to my faulty thermostat, but it is what it is.

Finally, took top hose off reservoir As I’d like to check out the ideas of ensuring minimum air pockets when replacing coolant I’ve read on here. No way was that moving.
Wrapped it in hot strips of rag and poured a dribble of hot water on for about a minute. Slipped off like a good un!
Went indoors and tried to raise my core temp to something comfortable…


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Nothing today as I’m at one of those points where you haven’t done something before/ seems to require a lot of force/ and It’s a bit hidden so you might missed something. So did the final Christmas shop. decent brussel sprout trees seem rare this year? ( tip - put the root in water outside the house and they are good for a couple of weeks, not just a few days) 
I’m finally at the three tubes that connect to the thermostat. The only one causing grief is the middle metal one. Its easy to miss one of its fasteners that hidden behind some wiring. So, three in all and no logical reason for any more support I’m thinking. I’ve read of two cases with members saying it’s a bitch to move so I may just go out tomorrow and give it an all or nothing tug. Because of my inexperience with car mechanics its taken me an age to get to this point.

Reading around the mk2 part of the forum it’s a surprise how many have done this job and not had a nervous breakdown. It’s fiddly for sure and you do need a toolkit with lots of options for what is often just seems a tool size but the DIY times of almost all experienced members seem realistic at a mean of four hours. Im an old git, but I reckon five hours with a tea break if I ever had to do it again

For those of a cynical nature I’ve spent some time thinking about reassembly as I’ve disassembled but it’s worth bookmarking if you like a good disaste….


----------



## Grande GTi (9 mo ago)

Got around to fixing the famous broken bowden lock cable


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Beryl said:


> no logical reason for any more support I’m thinking. I’ve read of two cases with members saying it’s a bitch to move so I may just go out tomorrow and give it an all or nothing tug. Because of my inexperience with car mechanics its taken me an age to get to this point.
> 
> Reading around the mk2 part of the forum it’s a surprise how many have done this job and not had a nervous breakdown. It’s fiddly for sure and you do need a toolkit with lots of options for what is often just seems a tool size but the DIY times of almost all experienced members seem realistic at a mean of four hours. Im an old git, but I reckon five hours with a tea break if I ever had to do it again
> 
> For those of a cynical nature I’ve spent some time thinking about reassembly as I’ve disassembled but it’s worth bookmarking if you like a good disaste….


You never asked. I assumed you already know it.

The self taping screw on the thermostat will fail without the tripple square bolt holding the pipe inplace. Look at the thermostat there's no metal thread insert.

Make sure to test the coolant level sensor if it's working. Also check the alternator one way clutch. Hold the star shape blade inside the housing at the pulley side inplace then turn the pulley. Check for slippage. Use a brass wire wheel or brush to clean the mating surface of the alternator


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

In the odd day twixt the recent freeze and the current downpour I managed to get the Gummi Pflege stick around all the rubber seals - doors, bonnet, boot and hood.
Not that it's likely to be left outside in the cold and wet. But you never know.


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## Robw516 (Dec 15, 2021)

My just had a quick wash. Get some of that winter salt of the car.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Wolvez said:


> You never asked. I assumed you already know it.
> 
> The self taping screw on the thermostat will fail without the tripple square bolt holding the pipe inplace. Look at the thermostat there's no metal thread insert.
> 
> Make sure to test the coolant level sensor if it's working. Also check the alternator one way clutch. Hold the star shape blade inside the housing at the pulley side inplace then turn the pulley. Check for slippage. Use a brass wire wheel or brush to clean the mating surface of the alternator


You are a quite unusual thinker. Your heat up the coolant to get it past the thermostat post when refilling makes so much sense yet I can hardly find anyone with the same idea. 
I’ll take a look at the clutch but I’m not sure about cleaning the mating surfaces of the alternator. But thanks for stuff I haven’t even thought about whist it’s on the bench


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

My cars sit in the full salty stream of westerly gales. Our old car, a citreon C3 Picasso held up its paintwork really well but the damage was underneath. At the last MOT it had to have its towbar removed to get a pass !
The first thing that happened to the new wheels was a professional treatment to the rear subframe. You should see the kit they use to get off serious rust - makes your wire brush look like a soft touch toothbrush getting back to base metal is key.


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## Matt Devo (4 mo ago)

installed some new Euro-spec headlights (aka, e-codes). Nice clean/clear lenses, no more ugly amber


----------



## delmar.atlas (Dec 9, 2021)

Took the Alan key and brought down the spray setting on my WMI system. 

It now starts spraying at 2.5psi. 

It's almost spraying immediately as I come on boost. 

Results; the car acts as if there's no turbo lag, and it rockets to 100km/hr too quickly. 

I figured that after a pair of weeks spraying at 4 psi that dropping down 1.5psi wouldn't hurt. Only time will tell.

The real test starts in the Summer with all the extra heat.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Nothing much. Had a three hour window but the winds were too strong to have the bonnet up and feel comfortable about it. Took out the hose from bottom of thermostat to bottom of radiator. Just wanted a closer look At the ‘quick release‘ connectors they have at both ends. The one at the rad end I couldn’t budge. The one at the thermostat end was easy with a couple of taps. I couldn’t understand this discrepancy and still don’t. They are a quite neat two part trick. You have a 45degree chamfer that compresses an o-ring that is secured in position by an external wire clip. 
All cleaned up and out of the car it all works beautifully. A sharp shove clicks them together and the wire confirms and holds their position. It is more difficult to separate them than join them. This explains my difficulties at the radiator end. Something new learned today
Is one allowed to play with the car on Christmas Day?


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Beryl said:


> Is one allowed to play with the car on Christmas Day?


If one has an understanding partner, sure……otherwise it’s kind like putting your gonads on a chopping board whilst wifey preps the Christmas lunch 😲


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

marvenednsson_7 said:


> Since some models have them it should be easy enough to install one.


One what? I suggest you use the Quote button!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Beryl* - These *Knipex* locking channel locks are not cheap, but once you use them you will never go back to regular channel locks.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *Beryl* - These *Knipex* locking channel locks are not cheap, but once you use them you will never go back to regular channel locks.
> View attachment 495265
> View attachment 495266


Nice. But are they like others I’ve looked at and only work when your square to the clip?


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Had an hour and a bit between showers this afternoon. Practised putting the thermostat back with the old one. Four goes and it’s slick in this tight space
The metal pipe gets in the way all the time but concluded it’s not worth removing. Once roughly in position you can locate the thermostat accurately if you have two six mm drill bits, though one is enough. Just use the shaft end, it’s a perfect fit for the minor diameter of the retaining bolts. They are a surprisingly fine thread into aluminium so just a light nip up. 
It’s worth pulling the bottom connector down a bit. The thermostat is easier to replace then.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The contact "teeth" can rotate even after the pliers have been clamped in place. So once it's clamped on, it's not going anywhere. Nice part is you can squeeze them to release the hose ring and it will hold it open once it's locked. Then just insert the hose or tube back and release the pliers...job done.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Where did you get yours from SJP?


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> The contact "teeth" can rotate even after the pliers have been clamped in place. So once it's clamped on, it's not going anywhere. Nice part is you can squeeze them to release the hose ring and it will hold it open once it's locked. Then just insert the hose or tube back and release the pliers...job done.
> View attachment 495274


fair enough: I stand corrected


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *barry_m2* - I bought mine from from Amazon. Be sure you get the locking version. YouTube video *here*.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'm very tempted by those even though pump pliers do the job, I am always concerned it will ping off


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> I'm very tempted by those even though pump pliers do the job, I am always concerned it will ping off


I’m okay with this. My pump pliers have been with me through two house re-plumbs and all sorts of odd bits where they saved the day. They have worked so far on the car, if a bit awkward at times. I’m going to remain faithful. A particularly clever tool…


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Just an hour between showers and near gale winds gusts. After visions of my raised bonnet being damaged I’ve installed a bungee cord that fixes the hood at two thirds open With four inches of movement before you really need to shut up shop 
Todays problem was how to get a small screw into a silly small space without losing it in the bowls of the engine? It had to be ‘firmly attached’ to a spline tool as any fingers were too big.
it’s not perfect but I had some dried out Waxoil from 20 years ago. It did the job but any suggestions would be gratefully received…
It was the second bolt that secures the metal pipe to the thermostat, hidden behind the black wiring cover with the distinct white strip. You would expect a bolt like that to be horizontal but it is actually canted up at a slight angle to accommodate refitting. It’s an awkward place to work and it was only in desperation I tried this angle ( not noticing when I removed it) once you realise it, it is obviously intentional And a nuance I’d missed. Interesting. Well I think so


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Paid for a bath at the local car wash. Lots of sand and salt buildup Already this winter.


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## Boshy (16 d ago)

new washer on windscreen wiper pump. New car, to me, frustratingly had a leak at the bottom of the reservoir, but easier to fix myself then take it back for the dealer to sort out.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Managed a couple of hours between showers this afternoon. I may not have a garage but I do have a view, Any weather from the south west, which it currently is, I can spot the squalls tracking across the bay and make a timely retreat 
Best thing learned today was the best way to remove is not always the best way to replace. We know this, but you still have to go through the options. Replacing the air feed gismo to the throttle body was a gym workout as I worked whether the top hose was best left on or off : hanging over the engine bay/wriggling under the engine bay/repeat a few times….

Why has the throttle body inlet have that unusual shape? I expected a circle but it’s made up of three curved sections. 
Also the ‘Jubilee’ clips have an added insert. This occurs on all three clips two of which are circular. the latter two I just can’t think what advantage they add. I wondered whether it firms the clip earlier for final tightening down. That feels a bit weak TBH.
Weather permitting we might be tooling along this weekend


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Removed my front seats today to fit the extra wiring needed for full electric seats.
Now need to swap the leather covers and foam from them on to the bare frames of the fully elecky ones I have..


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Added hot coolant to refill drained system after thermostat change. Didn’t make any difference. I think the stat is too far downstream. Worth a punt through. Car not charging for some reason so only got to 70 degrees before the engine died. Battery showing a magnificent 9,30 volts. Unknown age so a new one is probably the way to go.


----------



## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

A mid-winter rinseless wash thanks to the first dry day in a couple of weeks! Happy with how it turned out. 

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Replaced front male brake pad wear sensor plug that had disintegrated when swapping pads just before Christmas. Just been waiting on the weather to do it. Also the parking buzzer was replaced.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Removed my front seats today to fit the extra wiring needed for full electric seats.
> Now need to swap the leather covers and foam from them on to the bare frames of the fully elecky ones I have..


Leather covers and foam all swapped over from my old seats on to the elecky seat frames, now back in the car and all working.

With the seats out it’s also a great time to give the carpet a good clean, get to the places you can’t usually reach. So a nice clean interior too.

Quite fancy wrapping some of the nasty interior plastic trim in alcantara to make it look a little nicer.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Popped a new battery in today. Found it easier to take tool caddies out. Good to have a looksee in this area anyway. All very clean except tiny water leak where battery drain exits. Bit of mastic sorted that. Came across this little item hiding behind the negative terminal…
















Nearly got badly locked out of car. With battery disconnected the doors I had left unlocked were locked the following day. With an inch gap at the window I had no luck with six foot made up tools to open the passenger door despite achieving its latches full movement. Finally managed to flick the positive terminal to make contact and was able to open the boot despite the battery being an exhausted 9.2 volts! Phew. Once the ignition was turned on doors opened.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The deadlocks will disable the interior door handles. Couldn't you use the key in the driver's door lock?


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Beryl said:


> Popped a new battery in today. Found it easier to take tool caddies out. Good to have a looksee in this area anyway. All very clean except tiny water leak where battery drain exits. Bit of mastic sorted that. Came across this little item hiding behind the negative terminal…
> View attachment 495556
> 
> View attachment 495557
> ...


That little red thing is the emergency fuel flap opener if the fuel flap doesn’t open. The round end of it, when not in use, sits located into the release bolt for the drivers side rear light cluster - behind the side trim - it just plugs into the plastic bolt end you would undo to remove the cluster for easy access should you need it…..just pop the trim cover for the cluster bolt and there it “should be” ready to be pulled if needed…..


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> The deadlocks will disable the interior door handles. Couldn't you use the key in the driver's door lock?


No, door lock Kaput. Something else on ‘The List’ but towards the end of the page…


----------



## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Ran the car for a couple of minutes today just to check charging, which it is not. Traced to a blown 175A fuse. Worrying. 
Got a solid gold one to pick up from Audi tomorrow. If I’d had the time, Halfords sell a set of four of which one is the rating I need for half the price.
On the plus side the engine sucked up another 500 mls of the old coolant and there is just the same amount left to be back to when I drained it. Just sitting on the drive for thirty-six hours, those air pockets have been busy.


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

barry_m2 said:


> Leather covers and foam all swapped over from my old seats on to the elecky seat frames, now back in the car and all working.
> 
> With the seats out it’s also a great time to give the carpet a good clean, get to the places you can’t usually reach. So a nice clean interior too.
> 
> *Quite fancy wrapping some of the nasty interior plastic trim in alcantara to make it look a little nicer.*


Pics? Material used (I know Alcantara but did it have some adhesive backing or you had to glue; also where sourced from?).



Beryl said:


> Ran the car for a couple of minutes today just to check charging, which it is not. Traced to a blown 175A fuse. Worrying.
> Got a solid gold one to pick up from Audi tomorrow. If I’d had the time, Halfords sell a set of four of which one is the rating I need for half the price.
> On the plus side the engine sucked up another 500 mls of the old coolant and there is just the same amount left to be back to when I drained it. Just sitting on the drive for thirty-six hours, those air pockets have been busy.


You are blowing a _175A_ fuse  That's not right at all. Unless you accidentally shorted something, which would have created a huge spark, then something is shorted elsewhere. I wouldn't just replace that fuse until you are sure nothing on that line/circuit is shorted to ground.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Pics? Material used (I know Alcantara but did it have some adhesive backing or you had to glue; also where sourced from?).


I haven’t actually done it yet, just think it might be my next mini project.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

“You are blowing a _175A_ fuse  That's not right at all. Unless you accidentally shorted something, which would have created a huge spark, then something is shorted elsewhere. I wouldn't just replace that fuse until you are sure nothing on that line/circuit is shorted to ground.”
Yes I did short this circuit. I’ll put in a lower rating to check before using the correct fuse. The circuit is for the alternator only and I’m sure I haven’t short-circuited that during its removal/ replacement.


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## nigh7swimming (Sep 22, 2020)

1. Tuned and installed some mods like WMI.
2. Got all the fault codes sorted.
3. Installed a trunk light switch, the simplest mod of all.
4. Got an open circuit fault code on trunk light 🤦‍♂️


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Finally had a day without rain, so out with the detailing stuff…….usual routine for a thorough paint cleanse for me is:

1. Pressure washer rinse
2. Snow foam / rinse
3. Snow wash / agitate / rinse
4. Fallout remover / rinse
5. Clay bar / rinse
6. Repeat 2 & 3
7. Dry

Followed on by a quick pass over with my DA and a soft pad / Menzerna super finish, then a coat of prima amigo by hand and finally a coat of AG extra gloss protection - I prefer EGP in this kinda weather as it’s much quicker to use than a traditional carnuba wax.


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

Looks shiny, similar job to me, except in this weather for speed I use Turtle Wax Hybrid Sealant, fantastic stuff and so quick to apply.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

Steviejones133 said:


> Finally had a day without rain, so out with the detailing stuff…….usual routine for a thorough paint cleanse for me is:
> 
> 1. Pressure washer rinse
> 2. Snow foam / rinse
> ...


Good defensive parking there my man!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Beryl said:


> Good defensive parking there my man!


Haha, yeah!! - I always look for a good spot. No one could park next to me on the pax side and parking next to a disabled space always has good distance between me and whichever side it’s on…….gotta box clever these days when other people are sooo careless in car parks. 😉


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Had this thing out again.
Stopped working a week after I got it working again.
So, was time to replace with a new one.
No way was I paying nearly £400 for one from Audi! I got an alternative brand (Ava) for £100.
I did buy one cheaper on Autodoc but they had to refund me as it was never delivered, so I went with GSF car parts because I could physically collect it.
As usual I did a little hacking into the old one. I'll put a separate thread up with pics.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steviejones133* - Here's an old post from 2012 on the topic of various parking strategies and considerations. 😄








Where Do You Park Your Car...?


So you go to the supermarket or large car park. Where do you park??? Mines is the car in the corner on its own taking up two spaces so that no one parks next to me and dents my car. Or in a multi storey i will drive to the very top just to get some space. Have always done this and hence my car...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## mark white (1 mo ago)

hi
i've been shopping at "lidl"1/2" impact wrench £45. Worked a treat on my wheel lugs today.


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## Beryl (3 mo ago)

darrylmg said:


> Had this thing out again.
> Stopped working a week after I got it working again.
> So, was time to replace with a new one.
> No way was I paying nearly £400 for one from Audi! I got an alternative brand (Ava) for £100.
> ...


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Beryl said:


> Do follow up with what you find. I took the glove box out to get to mine that was making lots of odd noises then found more urgent things to do. Theoretically, it’s just one nut and a quick twist and it’s out?


Yes. Mine doesn't even have the securing screw in. Some other members have the same.
So just the twist, pull down and out, then disconnect the big cable block.
When I originally fixed mine in November 2021 it had all manner of leaves in there and was really dirty.


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