# Retrofit Cruise Control - Audi TT Tdi MY2010



## Moons (May 1, 2014)

Ok - there are a few guides out there on retrofitting Cruise Control on A3's, I couldn't find anything specific for TT's, so I have added to this excellent guide (link below) with some notes and additional pictures on the parts you need to know that aren't covered.

If you have the guide that comes as part of the Audi CC kit, plus the linked doc, you are off to a good start, I thought I would fill in some blanks.

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-spor ... guide.html

First job on the TDI TT is to remove the large panel under the steering wheel (the one that has the lights switch), this has two bolts hidden behind the side panel that pulls away. Remove the glove box too.

Running the extra cable between the ECU and Steering wheel

Under the bonnet, you need to remove both wipers (buy a puller for £4 and save yourself much grief), the scuttle panel un screws with two Torx screws on the left, and you prize it up from a groove immediately under the windscreen (don't go nuts pulling it, use a panel puller to lever it up).

Under the scuttle is the ECU. If yours has the anti theft cage on the main connector, you need to take some of the 'snap bolts'' off. Any advice to the contrary is oncorrect, you probably can remove the plastic cover, but connecting the wire securly in the connector is impossible without taking the cage off.

To remove the cage, use a Dremel to cut some grooves into the heads of the bolts (two of the bolts are captive in the ECU case, you can't remove them with mole grips at the thread end as two are captive in the ECU casing itself.



Once you remove the cage, cut the cable tie on the larger of the two connectors and pull the cover off to the side.


Take the longer of the two control wires in the pack (the shorter is for LHD cars) and make sure you get the right end for this connector - you want the square one (top one in the picture), not the one with a lip that stands proud (bottom one).


In guides it states to find the right pin (64) and push the wire in to it - this is incorrect. First, remove the lock tab (in purple, is slides out), then you can push the wire in, push the lock tab back and it's located properly.


Refit all the above and route the cable along the main loom - the part in the book about how it goes through the bulkhead is vague - if you follow the main loom, it goes through a large rubber grommet to the right of the bulkhead as you look in to the engine bay, just above the ABS pump. There is a small pair of rubber nipples, designed to be removed to led a cable travel through, pull one out - the cable can be routed through the hole. In the picture, you can see it routed through, the red part on the right of the picture is the Positive cable connector in the engine bay (to help the cable through, spray with with a bit of furniture polish or WD40 - try and push the cable down as you feed it as you want it to enter the footwell beneath the fan).


Inside the car - wire to the steering wheel connector
With the glovebox out, the cable comes through around where my finger is pointing - reach up and hook it down with your finger.


Route the cable tidily behind the aircon tubes, then behind the stereo, following the loom up to the connector at the back of the wheel.

The A3 guide (linked above) is pretty much spot on for the TT on taking things apart around the steering wheel - though I would not balls about with the box under the steering wheel (using allen keys etc in the linked guide) - it's far simpler to unclip the bottom of the box and carefully remove the circuit board, then unclip the top part.

Connecting the cable to the steering wheel connector - again, it states this is a simple shove the wire in, it isn't. Like the ECU plug, there is a locking section that you slide out first.




Push the wire in to the correct pin, then lock it in place.

VCDS coding
In the guides it states you can short code - not from my experience.

First - code the steering wheel - 'Select Control Module' - Option 16 - Steering wheel, and in the menu if gives you which digit you need to change.

Second - in the guides it states under Engine, you click Code 11, but on my car this is greyed out. Click Code 07, then use the long code helper (I got a few error messages, but it does come up eventually). If you click each of the green digits on the full code, eventually you'll find the one that gives you the option to activate Cruise Control (I think it was 4 or 5 from the right) - change the option in the pull down menu. Job done!

As stated, I simply wanted to add to the missing parts on self fitting Cruise as per 2010 TT TDI.

To be honest, if there are fitters out there for around £200 - £250 I would consider this a good price over doing it yourself if you don't have the right tools.


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## igotone (Mar 10, 2010)

Well done that man - good write up! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## JuSlaughter (May 31, 2014)

Paid £325 to have mine done when I bought the car second hand from the local Audi stealer :twisted:


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