# How to remove a mk3 door card



## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Thought I'd post a how to for anyone needing to remove a mk3 door card to carry out any mods such as adding B&O speaker, puddle lights, folding mirrors etc, I have taken pictures of the steps I followed but would not have been able to attempt this without the help of ManuTT who was kind enough to share information.

So first up you need to remove the door speaker trim to access the 1st screw, the 2nd is located under the arm rest area above the storage pocket


















Next up you need to undo the clips holding the card to the door frame, I used a set of clip spreaders as I found the standard plastic trim removers were not up to the task, on the mk3 there are a series of rivet type pins along the door frame that the the clips sit over










Pic of door clips









Pic of the rivets









Clip spreader tool









Once undone the door card can be lifted up and off the top of the door, at this point you need to disconnect the 30 pin plug from the door module which houses the wiring for puddles, red warning lights, alarm led etc and I clip the door handle wire if you plan to remove the door card altogether










Carry out your mods and refit is the reversal of removal

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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Well done gogs, I'm sure that this How To will be very helpful to many. Although I'm still a bit mystified about how those clips work and your clip removal tool.
But anyway - so what have you been doing that needed the door card taking off?


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

The clips are similar to the mk2 clips but instead of clipping into a hole in the door they fit into the rivet in the door, the removal tool is the expanding type (see below) so you just slide them between the clip and door frame and squeeze the handles, they expand and pop the clip off the rivet 

I had the door card off to fit a new trim piece and mirror switch for folding dimming mirrors, didn't get the mirrors fitted due to weather but got the door trim and mirror switch changed over had new modules as well but the modules I have are already compatible

Closed









Open (handles squeezed)









Top view









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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Top write up Gogs. Very professional. You didn't serve an aprenticship with Haynes did you - back in the days when the manuals were superb and a help [smiley=book2.gif]

Definitely a case of fortune favours the brave I'd say. Good news re your modules and ATB with the conversion.


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Ha ha no, a Haynes manual I'd have preferred tbh
Next write up will be fitting folding dimming mirrors 

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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Have you actually got to change the mirror units as I though if you had a mirror that tilted when reversing it wasn't necessary or is it the dimming mirror glass you're fitting?


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

My mirrors don't have the motors in for folding so I need to swap the units, the dimming was a bonus tbh

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## noname (Aug 20, 2015)

Hoping for the coding..!!


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Me as well 

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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

If door controllers are correct it will only be coding 
For folding function 
However, you may need to run cable for auto dimming to mirror as your existing loom may not have it

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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

If the original loom does not have the dimming wiring I will live without it, I can't be arsed running any further wires tbh
I plugged the replacement mirror into the controller and all the standard features worked, I will code for folding today and if it stays dry again plug the replacement mirrors in to see if they function or if that is also missing wiring

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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Didn't the new mirrors come with looms etc ???

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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Yes they came with the loom attached, I thought you meant if the loom to the controller from the car didn't have the dimming wiring

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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes that's possible mate

But i think you'll Deffo need the loom from controller to mirror for fold function

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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

I have the loom from module to mirrors 

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## Richski (Aug 18, 2019)

Audi TT Mk3 wing mirror replacement

Following an unfortunate early morning incident with a rather large Hebridean cow, I needed to replace the offside wing mirror of my Audi TT Mk3. Your post gave me the confidence to do the job myself. Here is the info for anyone trying this.

The mirror body is die cast metal, through which the wiring loom passes and to which everything else is attached. In my case it was this that had been snapped in two. The body is held in place with a single bolt which is accessed from within the door. You will need an 8mm hex (Allen) key, or the more sophisticated 12 sided key (called an XZN I think) to undo it, and unfortunately you will need to get right inside the door to both undo the bolt and route the wiring. Fortunately all fasteners are high quality and can be removed and replaced with confidence.

I got a second hand mirror unit from penguin spares. Great service, quick delivery and well packaged. Certainly cleaner than the one that was replaced.

It's worth noting that if your mirror does break in this way you can temporarily fasten it back in place by fashioning a sort of string net out of strong twine or similar, tying both around the mirror unit and what's left of the bracket in the door panel, without having to get inside the actual door. Mine covered hundreds of miles back from the Western Isles without concern.

So to get to the bolt, remove the door card as described - good write-up which I followed exactly, including using precisely the same tool recommended which works well. Then you'll need to remove the middle of the three top left grommets and wind down the window to access the bolt. I found myself reconnecting the door card several times in order to wind the window up or down. You need it down to access the bolt, and up to access the wiring loom. Fortunately all the wiring connectors are great quality and take multiple reconnections.

The mirror wiring loom comes from the mirror unit into the door, between outer skin and inner skin, and follows a brace diagonally to the other end of the door (top left to bottom right) where the electrical connectors are. The loom is clipped on with good fasteners, be prepared for some contortion and scratched arms to reach inside the door. The most difficult fastener is a different type and tucked right up inside near the mirror unit. I challenge anyone to actually replace this fastener but you can at least get the old one out, and for me the wires sat nicely even with this fastener now missing. Remember you'll need to wind the window up to access the wiring loom. You'll also need to remove the plastic panels, one which holds the speaker and one which holds the door handle cable. The speaker panel is held in with torq screws and three small nuts. Easy to undo and refit. The door handle panel needs prising out, be careful not to damage, it will come out, and it refits much more easily.

You'll also need to get the door handle cable undone from the card. This is done at the 'card' end. Again be careful with the tricky cable fastener. No hard pressure needed. Just carefully wiggle it free. It refits more easily.

Overall it took me a good couple of hours to figure all this out and carefully undo and refit everything. It did all work first time though, and I could probably do it all again now in half the time.

Here are some photos to help, hopefully.


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## jeebsy (Mar 31, 2020)

Cheers for this, just used to it to put TTRS door handles in - took my time with the first one but had the second off in about 60 seconds.


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## Richski (Aug 18, 2019)

Glad it helped. Bought back memories of scratched arms and contorted positions to route cables inside the door.


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## jeebsy (Mar 31, 2020)

Richski said:


> Glad it helped. Bought back memories of scratched arms and contorted positions to route cables inside the door.


i'm waiting for that pain when the inevitable window regulator failure happens


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Good write up for the mirrors that I never did get around to posting up :roll:


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