# HELP OIL PRESSURE ISSUE - FIXED =)



## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Hi All, First off I would like to say that this site has been an excellent source of info on all things TT  . Its good to know there are still forums out there that provide sound info to members [smiley=gossip.gif] .

The missus has got a 2001 225. It has just touched 100k and is due for service this week. She got home from work last night and as she pulled onto the drive the oil pressure lights came on. I told her not to go anywhere other than to our local Audi stealer this morning. She drove the car to Audi this morning (about 3-4miles) and she said the dash didn't show there fault.

I've [smiley=book2.gif] through countless pages on here about the numerous problems that could cause the oil pressure light to come on. My first thoughts were that there is a blockage in the system causing the intermittent pressure failure hence the reason the light came on, but then did not the this morning as the oil had settled and cleared itself.

She gets a call from Audi this afternoon and the nice lady on the line informs her that she is going to need a new engine [smiley=bigcry.gif]!!!! I called and spoke with the service department and the best thing they can tell me is that there is no oil pressure and the engine is rattling so they have decided the whole thing needs changing. This seems slightly extreme in my opinion. I'm not saying it doesn't need changing i would just like to explore other possibilities.

As far as i'm aware the 1.8t engine has a slight rattle on start-up (3-5 secs) aside from that the car has been running perfectly with no issues whatsoever. I can understand the engine making some noise if there is no oil running through the system (what engine wont make noise when there's lack of lube) but surely its seems a tad unprofessional to tell the missus that she's going to need a new engine because of a rattle when clearly there is no oil circulation.

Anyhoo after a quote for £5k (lol) to do an engine swap and £805 to swap out the oil pump. I have decided that I'm going to swap the oil pump & sensor myself (I've worked in a few garages and helped run breakers yard so feel confident enough to attempt this) to see if this resolves the issue.

If push comes to shove I have already source a 2002 225 lump @ a cost of £1500.. fitted by myself and a colleague would be quite a saving from Audi Plus i'd enjoy the challenge 

Just wanted to know if anyone has any advice, hints or tips etc before I get under the belly of the beast and get my hands dirty.

Thanks in advance


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## Adam_P (Jun 9, 2010)

First thing as I couldn't see it in your initial post, but did you check the oil level last night and this morning before it was started? Was it driven back home last night in a 'spirited' manner? Just that the oil light would come on if it had got surge possibly due to the oil level just being low, rather than having nothing in it at all.

Perhaps it just needed topping up. If it was definately a complete lack of oil pressure the light would have come on and stayed on when it was started this morning.

Personally, I'd take it back from the Audi dealership and have a good look at it myself first. Perhaps give it an oil change and see how much you drop out of it? See if it's lost any reasonable amount compared to what should be in it. It's a bit drastic to just quote for a complete engine change.


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

I changed my oil pick up pipe today as the car has 120k miles. And am I glad I did as the gauze in the end was 30-40% blocked with gunge 

For the sake of £9 if you are going to drop the oil anyway then take the sump off and check the oil pick up pipe.


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## Jurpo (Jun 24, 2009)

TT51 said:


> I changed my oil pick up pipe today as the car has 120k miles. And am I glad I did as the gauze in the end was 30-40% blocked with gunge
> 
> For the sake of £9 if you are going to drop the oil anyway then take the sump off and check the oil pick up pipe.


I did same last week. There was about 5 hard particles stuck in pick up screen, so bout 0,5% blocked.
Zero slime or sludge. sump was intresting, part that is under oil level was 95% clean (bright aluminium)
but over oil level was 50% dirty. very thin black dirt and difficult to remove.
44k miles no avs after 35k

I suggest that con rod bearing caps are removed and bearings inspected if sump is taken out.
first ones that take beating with no oil pressure.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Rattle on startup is probably the Cam chain tensioner which does go like this with low oil pressure and this may need changing even after a new oil pump.

Changing the oil pump as a first course is probably a good idea and you may be fine, but I would say if its had low oil pressure for a while, undetected then..... change the oil feed pipe to the turbo.... at very least remove it and check its got a clear pathway.

With low oil pressure the turbo and chain tensioner are usually the more sensitive items to have issues


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## thomasl (Oct 17, 2009)

There's also a "non-return valve" on the top back of the oil filter console, which is supposedly responsible for holding pressure in the system at startup until the oil pump itself i generating enough pressure. Excessive rattle on startup could be a sign of failure in this part, I hear.

It's a cheap part, but not the easiest to replace.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Thanks for the responses.

@ Adam_P: Checked the oil levels on the weekend and needed a 0.5l top-up. Didn't really give me any cause for concern as i knew i was going to be doing a full change this week. The engine oil has never ran low.

The missus is too worried about driving in a spirited manor... she's all show. The only reason i could think of a surge happening is if the had to dip the accelerator when she pulled on the drive to avoid traffic.

The oil pressure light didn't come back on even when she drove it to the stealer.

@Jurpo: Thanks for the tip...the sump will be coming off too for inspection.

@ Wak: I've been on your site and downloaded the PDF guide on changing the tensioner etc... was one of the first place's I came across after a quick google. Think i'll do the oil change first along with a check of all pipes to see if there are any blockages, Then check the pump and so on.

The rattle is literally 1-2 secs on initially start-up and never any more. When the car is running it sounds perfect not one lump or bump in when engine is idling or on a long drive.

It was MOT'd last month and passed with flying colours, The guys in the garage were impressed for a 10 year old car.

@thomasl: will be checking the valve too. As i wanna explore all possibilities.

Better be off to Audi. I'll post my findings good and bad


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Just got back from Audi. Not with the car though.... was a nice bike ride if I dont say so.

Spoke with the service guy. He said that they tested the engine and oil pressure is at 50%. He was sure it needs a new engine due to the "rattle" even though when I said surely it would make excessive noise if there was insufficient pressure.

I said I can get an oil pump for £75 and of course got the "oh I wouldn't use one of them" story.

It was £60 for the diagnostic which told me what I already knew but at least Its confirmed the oil pressure is running low.

There was a bit of noise on startup but after a few seconds the engine sounded fine... either way I didn't want to drive anywhere further than necessary so I parked it up a couple hundred metres round the corner & will be towing it home later tonight, ready to get my hands dirty tomorrow.

Whats the access to the oil pump and sump etc. like? any clearance issues I should be aware of.


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## thomasl (Oct 17, 2009)

Did the oil pump myself recently. It's reasonably easy if you get it on a lift. Access to few of the bolts can be tricky, but otherwise it's straight forward.


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## Matt P (Jun 22, 2010)

You mentioned you have sourced a 225 engine for £1500, I came across this site recently:
http://www.backdraftmotorsport.com/shop ... e.tpl.html

I can't see any engine codes but they may work out a little cheaper for you and I guess would provide some kind of warranty on the block.

Hope it doesn't come to that though


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I didnt know I had a pdf guide for the cam chain tensioner.. :roll:

I'm talking about the unit on the battery end of the block NOT the cambelt tensioner.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Wak said:


> I didnt know I had a pdf guide for the cam chain tensioner.. :roll:
> 
> I'm talking about the unit on the battery end of the block NOT the cambelt tensioner.


OIC :? I should read things properly [smiley=book2.gif] lol

Well I got the car recovered and its back home the drive. Gonna drop the oil tomorrow evening and get things started. Keeping my fingers crossed the damage isn't as bad as Audi seem to believe.

@Matt P that looks very interesting indeed  . Its good to expand the options. The engine I sourced is complete top and bottom without the gearbox. Here http://www.vw-audi-specialists.co.uk/now-breaking.html from the TT in the pic.


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## Matt P (Jun 22, 2010)

Isn't that TT in the 2nd Pic a 180? your first post said your car was a 225 so it's a different engine I think. Might be best to check the engine codes match to be safe but a single exhaust is a tell tale sign of the lower models.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Matt P said:


> Isn't that TT in the 2nd Pic a 180? your first post said your car was a 225 so it's a different engine I think. Might be best to check the engine codes match to be safe but a single exhaust is a tell tale sign of the lower models.


Will deffo check the engine codes. The guy i spoke with seemed said it was from a 225 so may not be from the car in the pic.

If I need the lump I think I'd go with the company you suggested... If the whole things gotta come out it may as well go back in with a few extra ponies.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Dropped the oil. No lumps or thick sludge & the consistency is what it should be considering it needed changing. Looked slightly dark but I dont know what oil was used the last time it was changed.










It drained in about 2 mins. A steady flow as seen below without any hickups.










The oil filter was a f**cker to get off... I almost snapped the nylon strap on the wratchet. Looks like some beastly person twisted it off with their hands.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

As was suggested by a few peeps I dropped the sump.. See pics below

















































Now back under the car fitting it up again. At least the weather is good and there are beers in the fridge


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, What condition was the sump oil strainer in, looks a bit blocked & knocked about in pics.
Hoggy.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, What condition was the sump oil strainer in, looks a bit blocked & knocked about in pics.
> Hoggy.


There was only a small amount a grit in the strainer...Deffo not blocked though. The "knocks" are small indentations that I would presume allow for better oil flow


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Finished fitting it all back up  Been a long day (didn't help I had to run a few errands halfway through taking the sump off).

Topped it up. Oil level was fine. I filled the filter before fitting it leaving enough space at the top so it didn't pour out everywhere.

I ran the engine for 30 secs first time to see if the oil pressure light would come on .... nothing  .

Let it stand for a few more mins and then started it again this time letting it run for a about a min. No revs either time for obvious reasons just left it idling. Still no pressure warning but I wont be satisfied until tested. I spoke with one of the guys from 4Rings. They're gonna come out and do a pressure test for approx £48.

The engine isn't making any excessive noise and sounds just as it has for the last year since purchase. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that everything if fine and the oil pump doesn't need replacing.


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## Matt P (Jun 22, 2010)

Good luck Riddler, hope it's sorted.


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## hoss (Feb 17, 2010)

Out of interest, did the garage mention actual pressures? or just '50%'?

I've recently fitted a permanent oil pressure gauge to my dash, and when engine is cold/high revs i get up to about 7 bar, but when the engine is hot, and at idle about 1.5 bar minimum.
I've no idea what is normal. Anyone?


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

hoss said:


> Out of interest, did the garage mention actual pressures? or just '50%'?
> 
> I've recently fitted a permanent oil pressure gauge to my dash, and when engine is cold/high revs i get up to about 7 bar, but when the engine is hot, and at idle about 1.5 bar minimum.
> I've no idea what is normal. Anyone?


He did mention the actual pressure and the upper/lower recommendation's that it should be running.

The "oh the pressure is low and the engine is making some noise so we suggest a new engine" line put a sour taste in my mouth and I didn't really wanna hear anymore. All I could hear in my head was "show me ya money" lol so I paid and left ASAP.

The invoice reads:

Carried out investigation into oil pressure warning. Carried out pressure test. Low. Engine noisy :roll: Poss large or increased tolerances causing noise. Can replace oil pump & try but highly recommend engine replacement 

Work carried out by a Mr Jack Tupp :lol:  :lol:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

hoss said:


> Out of interest, did the garage mention actual pressures? or just '50%'?
> 
> I've recently fitted a permanent oil pressure gauge to my dash, and when engine is cold/high revs i get up to about 7 bar, but when the engine is hot, and at idle about 1.5 bar minimum.
> I've no idea what is normal. Anyone?


Hi, Oil press should be.....Idle 1.0 bar/14.5 psi......3000rpm 3.5Bar/4.5Bar..51-65 psi @ 80 degrees C.
Hoggy.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Out of interest how do you do a pressure test on the TT? Never seen or done one before... My mechanical knowledge limits me to mainly keep to changing the easy/easier bits


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Out of interest how do you do a pressure test on the TT? Never seen or done one before... My mechanical knowledge limits me to mainly keep to changing the easy/easier bits


Hi, You need to replace oil pressure switch ( on oil filter housing) with a mechanical pressure gauge or a sender unit for an electrical gauge. Use a "T" piece on housing so oil pressure switch can still be used or low oil pressure will alarm. 
Hoggy.


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## hoss (Feb 17, 2010)

Hoggy said:


> TH3UKRIDDL3R said:
> 
> 
> > Out of interest how do you do a pressure test on the TT? Never seen or done one before... My mechanical knowledge limits me to mainly keep to changing the easy/easier bits
> ...


Actually you dont need to replace the std switch, theres a spare 10mm port on top with a blank plug. Believe theres picks on waks how-to page.


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## hoss (Feb 17, 2010)

Thanks Hoggy,
In fact i get way more than that with the oil cold at high revs, but i was a little worried about the 1.5 bar at idle when hot, good to know its normal.



Hoggy said:


> hoss said:
> 
> 
> > Out of interest, did the garage mention actual pressures? or just '50%'?
> ...


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

*Hoss wrote*_Thanks Hoggy,
In fact i get way more than that with the oil cold at high revs, but i was a little worried about the 1.5 bar at idle when hot, good to know its normal._

Hi Hoss, Oil pressure will be higher when its cold, which is why it should measured with engine at working temperature.
When engine cold oil press will higher, but flow will be lower, which is why a cold engine shouldn't be left idleing, as there can be very little oil at top of engine, at camshaft etc.
Hoggy.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

:mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

She's good to go... Just had 4Rings come out and do a pressure check.

3.0 bar @ idle
4.5 bar @ 3500rpm

Compared the stats to Audi's recommendations and everything is running perfectly within upper and lower limits.

They only charged me the call out fee +Vat which came to a grand total of £47.

Also had a friend bring his ODB reader round last night to see if there were any faults hiding and not showing themselves, but not one fault found and all other checks were completed/passed.

I now have piece of mind that the engine is sound and running as it should be 

Thanks for the advice and tips chaps its much appreciated. I felt a lot more confident dealing with this knowing had a few people's brains to pick in case I got stuck.


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## Matt P (Jun 22, 2010)

Are you going to inform Audi of their error in telling you you needed a new engine?


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## Adam_P (Jun 9, 2010)

Matt P said:


> Are you going to inform *Audi UK Customer Relations* of their *dealers* error in telling you you needed a new engine?


EFA :wink:


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## stevebeechTA (May 16, 2009)

Fantastic its sorted mate  .

Have read this from the beginning again in case i missed somthing. So all you have done is drain her of oil and took the sump of, put a new filter on sump back on and refilled and all is ok  I cant believe Audi said you need a new engine :? 
I presume your London way if 4 rings did your pressure test. something needs to be said to someone :x


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

A good friend of mine advised me to draft up a letter of complaint and hand deliver it to Audi giving them 14 days to respond.

If I am not satisfied with the response(if one is received) I will be contacting my local Trading standards department.
I have the invoice from Audi recommending a replacement engine, Invoice from 4Rings Ltd (with pressure readings), receipt for filter and the pictures to show the work carried out, which i'm sure they would be interested in seeing.

It sickens me to think that if this advice was given to someone who had now idea about engines or someone that did and wouldn't even think to question the advice given at a dealer they could of spent a considerable amount of money replacing a perfectly fine engine. An insurance company would right the car off for less.

Not only that but the stress that was caused to the missus. When Audi told her she called me in [smiley=bigcry.gif] thinking that her car was ready for the breakers.

I will keep all informed of the outcome.


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## [email protected] (Aug 4, 2009)

Well done to TH3UKRIDDL3R - from a fellow Souf Londoner.

I have exact issue with my MK1 TTQ R180. Started this week. I have parked the car up and now I have seen your post - I will let my mechanic look at the fix you applied - thx!

To be honest I have replaced so many items on the car that I was not surprised with the latest fault - in fact it is 1st engine related fault so I guess it is about time. car has done 123k. Am torn between keeping it or selling it...hmmm, not sure what to do...I do have a soft spot for it though I also own other cars.

Anyway thx indeed for the post.


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Fantastic report and pictures 

I've read many times on this forum about this pickup hose getting dirty, and wonder where does this dirt come from? The mesh on pickup is pretty large, having it blocked with foreign objects of that size would be very worrying... Is it some kind of a sludge? Do you actually wash the pipe or get new one? How can a sludge form at that place and not anywhere else, top end for example, just had a tensioner job done, all looked pristine clean like on diesel.

It seems to be pretty straightforward job, is it recommended to do even though I have no warnings? Also, seems, mine doesn't have this sensor on the pan, is it a temperature sensor?

Thank you


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## Gram TT (Aug 28, 2009)

I've been following this post with interest. I'm glad you have proven the audi garage wrong! They should be made an example of after wrongly diagnosing your problem. The fact that they were prepared to take over £5000 from you without hesitation is a disgrace. :x I have recently fitted an oil pressure gauge to my TT , as my wife's car has just packed up due to a faulty oil pump...the engine is shot!! Thought i'd better keep an eye on my oil pressure just for piece of mind really. 
Glad you got it sorted.


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

stevebeechTA said:


> Fantastic its sorted mate  .
> 
> Have read this from the beginning again in case i missed somthing. So all you have done is drain her of oil and took the sump of, put a new filter on sump back on and refilled and all is ok  I cant believe Audi said you need a new engine :?
> I presume your London way if 4 rings did your pressure test. something needs to be said to someone :x


As above, i've read through the whole post and am not clear on exactly what was the cause of the problem?


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## KentishTT (Jun 28, 2007)

TT51 said:


> I changed my oil pick up pipe today as the car has 120k miles. And am I glad I did as the gauze in the end was 30-40% blocked with gunge
> 
> For the sake of £9 if you are going to drop the oil anyway then take the sump off and check the oil pick up pipe.


Good advice here!

I had APS change my oil pick up pipe and oil pump at the last service in June, just in case!

It was only around £185 to do both and money well spent for peace of mind.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Sorry for the delayed response... i've been busy with work and new ventures with a colleague and have been neglecting the ******** [smiley=bigcry.gif]

@ *996cab *& *Gram TT* - Thanks for the thanks. The forum is an amazing source of information and I was surprised I couldn't find any pics etc so am glad could contribute to the cause 

@ *stevebeechTA *- That sums it up matey, Oil drained, sump off and cleaned, new filter, refilled & then pressure test for piece of mind. Yup South London... 4 rings are about 4 miles from me 

@ *Nordic *- The oil wasn't thick and I didn't find any sludge after I drained it out. I let it stand for 20 mins and then ran my hand around in the oil to feel for anything out of the ordinary.

The mesh is about the size of a 10p coin. I have no idea where the grit in the mesh came from. I used a small toothbrush to clean it out, but before that I had a scratch at it with using my finger nail and it felt like sand. As soon as I touched it with the brush some oil dropped out, i'd say about half an egg cup.

I'm sure the sensor is for the oil level and would assume its the same for all mk1's. Dont know how many variations of the sump there are.

@ *Peter-ss* - The only thing I can think of is that because the oil change was late the oil had cooked and thinned itself out to a point that the oil pump was struggling to maintain pressure. When 4-rings ran the pressure test everything was well within Audi recommendations.


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## Stevieb77 (Nov 8, 2010)

What about Audi . What was there reply .....?.????


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Stevieb77 said:


> What about Audi . What was there reply .....?.????


FAIL - I didn't even put in a complaint... got caught up with a family matter and a couple more important things :x :x

But the car is still running fine. I've put another 4k miles :lol: on it since the oil swap and will be swapping out again after another 2k


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## Charlie (Dec 15, 2006)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Stevieb77 said:
> 
> 
> > What about Audi . What was there reply .....?.????
> ...


Glad the issue is sorted, don't let Audi get away with it though :-(

Charlie


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Oil pressure light decided to rear its ugly head again last weekend whilst on route to the pub (1.5 miles away to be precise :evil: ). Luckily enough I could stop immediately and was cruising slow. Pulled onto the hard shoulder and the engine did not sound healthy at all [smiley=bigcry.gif].

The missus said the oil light came on last week and she went to halfrauds and they put some of the own brand in it  [smiley=bigcry.gif]. Dont know if its a combination of the hot weather and the crappy oil that was in it.

I've since drained the old stuff and put in a fresh 4.5L of Mobil 1 5w30. Engine sounded perfect again within a few seconds of starting her up. Decided to take it for a crawl round the block with a mate following is his car just in case. Got a couple miles down the road and the light came on again (grr). Stop the car again & turn engine off...

Start the car again and oil pressure is fine so I decided to nurse the car home. On route the light came back on a couple of times but went straight back off again.

Seeing as the car's gaining pressure and losing it intermittently I would think, correct me if i'm wrong, that the strainer and or oil filter are blocked or that the pump is on its way out.

I'm changing the filter tomorrow morning. If the cars still has intermittent pressure then at least I know how to drop the sump and get to the oil pump hehe.

Will post pics of any new findings.


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Man, sad to hear this again... 
Honestly, I think oil pump is not something too expensive and complicated to replace, I would've replaced it when the sump was removed for piece of mind.

Not sure if it can cause this, was the pump chain tensioner fine?
Also, the chain drive on crankshaft, I think, is something that is pressed in (separate to crankshaft) - maybe it's cracked or something and spins freely. [smiley=book2.gif]

What are you planning to do?


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

nordic said:


> Man, sad to hear this again...
> Honestly, I think oil pump is not something too expensive and complicated to replace, I would've replaced it when the sump was removed for piece of mind.
> 
> Not sure if it can cause this, was the pump chain tensioner fine?
> ...


The oil pump was fine before, chain was too. The engine met all of Audi requirements for pressure when 4-rings came and done a pressure test, but the car has done a few thousand more miles since then and I'm aware the pumps aren't the most reliable hence the reason I'm ticking other boxes before I change it. Eurocarparts have them in stock for £83.94 and there is one in Crayford now.

Not to sure about the tensioner now though. If i'm honest i wouldn't know what to be looking for lol I can change something if someone shows me or I have the laptop out and the ******** up, but dont ask me whats where in the enginebay :roll:

So tomorrow morning its change the oil filter, Check pressure. If its holding steady then happy days if not its a quick trip to ECP the sumps coming off and the pump is getting changed too.


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Please keep us posted, I think many of us here are interested! [smiley=gossip.gif] I'm doing mine next week.

As for tensioner, it's slightly visible on one of your pictures. Looks ok...


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Fingers crossed I don't have to drop the sump. But if I'm honest I will probably do it anyway for piece of mind.

I'm hoping for a nice dry weekend... Last time I was under the TT it's was p***ing down.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TTMBTT (Jul 22, 2010)

At that mileage before you start to dig deep into quite expensive repairs, try renewing the oil
pressure sender, it's just that you have had the oil pressure checked and it seems to be fine which
to me points to the sender being weak :idea:


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

TTMBTT said:


> At that mileage before you start to dig deep into quite expensive repairs, try renewing the oil
> pressure sender, it's just that you have had the oil pressure checked and it seems to be fine which
> to me points to the sender being weak :idea:


The oil pressure was tested months ago after the strainer became blocked. I'm aware of the repair costs....Hence the reason i'm working my way towards the more expensive repairs rather than just jumping in. I'm pretty confident that if the oil filter doesn't remove the problem that changing the oil pump will. I ran the engine last night when I got in and it held pressure for the few minutes it was running :?

Either way I've been looking into replacing the engine next year, not only for piece of mind but also ready for any future upgrades... we're not planning on selling the car as its a pretty rare colour and we love it too much


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## TTMBTT (Jul 22, 2010)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> TTMBTT said:
> 
> 
> > At that mileage before you start to dig deep into quite expensive repairs, try renewing the oil
> ...


Cant help but feel you have missed the the point, the switch/sender (Electrical), the pressure checks you have had done (Mechanical) which show excellent pressure within tolerances given by AUDI specs provided by "Hoggy". Just thinking of 
the best logical method/cheapest resolution to your problem. Looks as though from the posts a lot of people are watching with interest as to the outcome i.e. without purchasing engine!!!!!!

Mark


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

TTMBTT said:


> TH3UKRIDDL3R said:
> 
> 
> > TTMBTT said:
> ...


OIC I must of been having a brain fart... not used to being awake on a saturday morning. For some reason in my head i was picturing the oil level sensor :roll:. Audi Bexley have got one in £10+ vat...got call around some of the local parts shops and see whats about.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

SCMF in Welling have the switch for £8.25 inc VAT. I'm waiting for one of the chaps to get here with his MAC Tools - Diagnostic tool. I wanna check the pressure before and after the switch is changed to see if there are any variations.

And in regards to the engine change, that's just personal preference. IMO if we're keeping the car for another 10 years+ then I can justify the new lump (keeping fingers crossed that another enthusiast will be after a 20yo MK1 TT in immaculate condition  ).


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## anthony_m (Aug 28, 2008)

hi,
sorry to hear that it has reverted back to playing up again!
what you describe i have seen on a few engines over the years, one in paticular was down to the oil pressure relief valve sticking, this would happen intermitently obviously due to the relief valve opening on high pressure but instead of shutting when the oil pressure returned to normal limits, it would stick open hence no oil pressure, if you switched off and left it for a little while it would give the spring in the oil pressure relief valve chance to slowly push the valve shut again. another similar fault was caused by lumps of carbonated mineral oil breaking down and partialy blocking a major oil way, thus acting like a one way valve all the time the oil pressure was against it, then once the engine had been switched off, the pressure would relieve on the blockage and you would get oil pressure again, but only for short intervalves, this is the most annoying of the two as the only way to remove the blockage was to either use a very powerfull detergent in the oil and hope it would break things down, or worse case to strip the block. in your case i hope its the relief valve, the other scenario i have had, [which i have mentioned before in a diffrent thread] was one where one of the main bearings had spun and was partialy covering up the oil ways in the crank hence intermitent oil pressure.
i hope my ramblings are of some help.
Anthony.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

anthony_m said:


> hi,
> sorry to hear that it has reverted back to playing up again!
> what you describe i have seen on a few engines over the years, one in paticular was down to the oil pressure relief valve sticking, this would happen intermitently obviously due to the relief valve opening on high pressure but instead of shutting when the oil pressure returned to normal limits, it would stick open hence no oil pressure, if you switched off and left it for a little while it would give the spring in the oil pressure relief valve chance to slowly push the valve shut again. another similar fault was caused by lumps of carbonated mineral oil breaking down and partialy blocking a major oil way, thus acting like a one way valve all the time the oil pressure was against it, then once the engine had been switched off, the pressure would relieve on the blockage and you would get oil pressure again, but only for short intervalves, this is the most annoying of the two as the only way to remove the blockage was to either use a very powerfull detergent in the oil and hope it would break things down, or worse case to strip the block. in your case i hope its the relief valve, the other scenario i have had, [which i have mentioned before in a diffrent thread] was one where one of the main bearings had spun and was partialy covering up the oil ways in the crank hence intermitent oil pressure.
> i hope my ramblings are of some help.
> Anthony.


Cheers matey, that's some good brain food lol

I'm hoping it's nothing too major. If it's still intermittent after the oil pump is changed then I'll start to worry.

On the other hand I removed that little bugger of a black cover to get better access to the sensor and discovered this...









Replacement sourced for 70p lol

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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Grrrr... Sods law I can't find my deep 22mm socket!!!

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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

I know mattb had a oil pump fail, and he managed to replace it with no damage to the engine.... might be worth asking him if it was playing up in a similar way to yours...

On another note just had to swap the engine in a mk4 golf (gf's) because the strainger blocked and it span a shell on the Crank. i'd change the strainer if your taking sump off. it's only a £9 part when i did mine.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

tony_rigby_uk said:


> I know mattb had a oil pump fail, and he managed to replace it with no damage to the engine.... might be worth asking him if it was playing up in a similar way to yours...
> 
> On another note just had to swap the engine in a mk4 golf (gf's) because the strainger blocked and it span a shell on the Crank. i'd change the strainer if your taking sump off. it's only a £9 part when i did mine.


Yeah I will be changing the strainer. It's gonna have to wait until Tuesday now as nowhere is open to grab an oil pump.

Aside from the strainer is there anything else I should be checking and/or replacing whilst the sump is off?

Gonna be a few long days for me this week. Fingers crossed the weather holds out in the evenings.

I'll pm matt and see.

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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

I know the strainer is only £9ish but you can clean it. Even though I replaced mine every time I go in the shed I see the old strainer sat on my tool box and think why didn't I just clean it as its all metal and easy enough to clean the gauze out.

Anyway, just incase you haven't got £9 to hand or Audi don't have the part.

Oil pressure switch is on the oil filter housing, I think the oil pressure relief valve is also there, might be worth changing it anyway after reading the other post.

Good luck fella


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

TT51 said:


> I know the strainer is only £9ish but you can clean it. Even though I replaced mine every time I go in the shed I see the old strainer sat on my tool box and think why didn't I just clean it as its all metal and easy enough to clean the gauze out.
> 
> Anyway, just incase you haven't got £9 to hand or Audi don't have the part.
> 
> ...


My mate suggested soaking the strainer in some petrol for a few hours yesterday. I don't mind spending £9 but not if its pointless.

Change the pressure valve to you say... Will grab one of those on Tuesday too. Cheers matey

I want to tick all the boxes I can whilst I'm getting my hands dirty and save me the trouble of going back over myself in a month or so.

Currently waiting for my mate to get up and come over with axle stands and ball end hex keys plus some other extras.


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> TT51 said:
> 
> 
> > I know the strainer is only £9ish but you can clean it. Even though I replaced mine every time I go in the shed I see the old strainer sat on my tool box and think why didn't I just clean it as its all metal and easy enough to clean the gauze out.
> ...


If you want to take a look at the strainer that came out of mine before you go ordering any parts you are welcome to pop round I'm only up the road from you if you are still Bexleyheath area

I've got a Bentley manual if you need to take a look for any more info


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

TT51 said:


> TH3UKRIDDL3R said:
> 
> 
> > TT51 said:
> ...


Thanks for the offer mate. I'm still down in Thamesmead but the missus is in Bexleyheath so the car is kept up here. I can recall the strainer from memory and I have the ETKA on my lappy at home so shouldn't be an issue.

Does anyone know the part number for the relief valve for 2001 225 BAM engine (I've looked but cant find any definitive numbers). Thanks in advance.

Just found out that my help for the day cant make it even though he had 5 days notice and a reminder yesterday :twisted: So its a trip to halfrauds for axle stands, hex keys & deep 22mm socket...more monies but on the plus side at least i'm increasing my tools without need for excuses hehe


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Does anyone know the part number for the relief valve for 2001 225 BAM engine (I've looked but cant find any definitive numbers). Thanks in advance.


Try this one 8N-Y-090 000 or 8N-Y-090 001

Found it on this thread

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71325&p=768920&hilit=cam+follower


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

TT51 said:


> TH3UKRIDDL3R said:
> 
> 
> > Does anyone know the part number for the relief valve for 2001 225 BAM engine (I've looked but cant find any definitive numbers). Thanks in advance.
> ...


Yeah I saw that lol. I'll give Audi parts a call on monday to find out what the current revision is.

Back from Halfords ended up with 2 sets of ball end hex keys... one set (the more expensive set) was free :roll:


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Quick update...Sump removed & low and behold the strainer was completely blocked. There was a little bit of sludge but alot of little bits of yellow plastic from the bloody dipstick tube.

Now just gotta wait for Eurocarparts & Audi to open on Tuesday so I can grab the strainer and new oil pump.At the moment the sump is only being held on by 2 bolts as I didn't fancy leaving the engine open to the elements until then.

Took a few pics as I went but nothing new just for my own satisfaction  and excuse the quality they were taken with my battleaxe of an iphone 3g.

My way of ensuring the right bolts go back in the right holes.. not that it makes a difference but I cant help but do it.



























Filthy.









More bits of plastic and dirt.

















Oil Pump

















With plastic cover removed.









Lovely chip missing but where did it go....









My plastic chip removal tool fashioned from a coat hanger along with the missing chip.









View through the head. The plastic chip was just resting on the hole. Luckily enough it wasn't big enough to fit through but only just.









Cant get any oil anywhere or the monster in-law will go mad lol









As she stands until repaired.









Cant believe I've missed 2 beautiful bank holiday weekends... ahh the joys of owning a TT (cant say I dont enjoy getting down and dirty with it though  ).


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

this thread is spurring me on to remove my sump and check the strainer..

fingers crossed you've nailed the problem. thanks for the pics and write up.. will prove helpful to us all no doubt. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

GunnerGibson said:


> this thread is spurring me on to remove my sump and check the strainer..
> 
> fingers crossed you've nailed the problem. thanks for the pics and write up.. will prove helpful to us all no doubt. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Good stuff mate glad you are gaining confidence  . I'll be posting more pics after I fit the oil pump too.


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Quick update...Sump removed & low and behold the strainer was completely blocked. There was a little bit of sludge but alot of little bits of yellow plastic from the bloody dipstick tube.


That's good news then; it sounds like you've found the cause.


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

GunnerGibson said:


> this thread is spurring me on to remove my sump and check the strainer..


I ended up having my strainer replaced soon after buying my Mk1, and buy the sound of it, it was lucky I did.

Although I do all of my own repair work, I have the car serviced a Volks-Tek to keep the service book stamped. When I took it the first time he found that the drain plug threads had stripped from the sump, so it had to be replaced. The worst thing was that someone had bodged the sump with silicon sealant, which didn't fill me with confidence with regard to the rest of the car!


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> GunnerGibson said:
> 
> 
> > this thread is spurring me on to remove my sump and check the strainer..
> ...


 I dont lack confidence, just time.... rebuilt a few engines in my time :-D! on a serious note i also had a snapped dipstick tube so may check the strainer out, just in case...

will look forward to your pump pictures ( oil pump ) lol


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## Gazzer (Jun 12, 2010)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Quick update...Sump removed & low and behold the strainer was completely blocked. There was a little bit of sludge but alot of little bits of yellow plastic from the bloody dipstick tube.
> 
> Now just gotta wait for Eurocarparts & Audi to open on Tuesday so I can grab the strainer and new oil pump.At the moment the sump is only being held on by 2 bolts as I didn't fancy leaving the engine open to the elements until then.
> 
> ...


sozz about car and glad you sorted it without major cost to the wallet...........with money saved can do something about the horrific railings to wall tops lol.........big fat gypsy railings spring to mind he he.......sorry folks but you look at T's i am a sad git and look at railings & gates


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

gazzer1964 said:


> sozz about car and glad you sorted it without major cost to the wallet...........with money saved can do something about the horrific railings to wall tops lol.........big fat gypsy railings spring to mind he he.......sorry folks but you look at T's i am a sad git and look at railings & gates


Thats the missus house lol... she wasn't happy when she read that :lol:. She says you need a fence/wall like that to keep the little fuckers off the council estate away from your baby. Plus 2 cars have hit the wall in he last few years, if it wasn't there the TT and her mums 325ci would of been in need of some copious tlc.


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## anthony_m (Aug 28, 2008)

Hopefully thats it!  
to be on the safe side, once you have re-assembled it, i would put on a new filter, put some flushing oil in and run it for a while as directed [usualy tick over or just above] and for the time period sugested, then drain out the flushing oil and replace the filter with another new one,then put your good oil in, i know it will add a little more expense but its cheaper in the long run.
good luck with it.  
Anthony.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

anthony_m said:


> Hopefully thats it!
> to be on the safe side, once you have re-assembled it, i would put on a new filter, put some flushing oil in and run it for a while as directed [usualy tick over or just above] and for the time period sugested, then drain out the flushing oil and replace the filter with another new one,then put your good oil in, i know it will add a little more expense but its cheaper in the long run.
> good luck with it.
> Anthony.


Excellent idea mate....not too expensive either :roll: (I say that now after pouring £50's worth of Mobil 1 away after just 3 miles of use [smiley=bigcry.gif] ). Halfrauds own brand 5w30 is only £25 for 5L & meets VW specification, so is perfect for the job. The new filter is already on. I've gotta get a new strainer, pressure valve & oil pump tomorrow, gonna change the oil sensor too as i'm not changing the oil again (well hopefully) for a few thousand miles.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi TH3UKRIDDL3R, Use a cheaper 5w-30 synthetic oil for a flush, but IMO don't use a "flushing oil" & run the engine, & never let a cold engine tick over, keep revs at a min of 1500rpm to keep oil flow high. Cold oil gives high pressure, but low flows, so don't let it tick over. 
Hoggy.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi TH3UKRIDDL3R, Use a cheaper 5w-30 synthetic oil for a flush, but IMO don't use a "flushing oil" & run the engine, & never let a cold engine tick over, keep revs at a min of 1500rpm to keep oil flow high. Cold oil gives high pressure, but low flows, so don't let it tick over.
> Hoggy.


Cheers Hoggy every tip helps . Will deffo be 5w30 as a flush not actual flush.... i've read to many posts saying NO [smiley=stop.gif].


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

Well chaps I've changed the oil pump, strainer, filter, oil x3 and temperature sensor. Didn't change the pressure switch cuz I didn't have a 23/24mm deep socket to hand. The new one is 22mm.

Anyway i've just run car for 10 mind and all is well. Let her idle for a few seconds to allow the system to get up to full pressure, then ran it at 1500rpm for a couple mins until the engine reached full temp. Once at full temp I ran it at 3000rpm for a couple if mins.

Was a very nervous few minutes... I have faith in my own work but I was still paranoid lol

The engine sounds sweet and is running exactly how it was prior to any issues.

Gonna take it for new tyres and an MOT. Luckily both are next door to each other and less than a mile away from home so if it all goes pete tong i'm on my doorstep.

Will post up pics and an update in a bit... For now I need a beer =)

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## anthony_m (Aug 28, 2008)

TH3UKRIDDL3R said:


> Well chaps I've changed the oil pump, strainer, filter, oil x3 and temperature sensor. Didn't change the pressure switch cuz I didn't have a 23/24mm deep socket to hand. The new one is 22mm.
> 
> Anyway i've just run car for 10 mind and all is well. Let her idle for a few seconds to allow the system to get up to full pressure, then ran it at 1500rpm for a couple mins until the engine reached full temp. Once at full temp I ran it at 3000rpm for a couple if mins.
> 
> ...


Good luck [again] with it mate, keep us posted.  
Anthony.


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

The car is driving lovely. Engine seems to be running a lot smoother than before, which makes me wonder how long the engine wasn't reaching full pressure.

Got 2 new rear tyres fitted and then went for an MOT. Luckily there is an MOT garage near me. Car failed on split CV & steering rack gaiters. But they said they could sort it out for collection before 1pm. Total price of MOT and replacement gaiters/labour is £145.

So hopefully it will ba back on road this afternoon.

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## bobbobb (Dec 24, 2008)

halfway though the job trying to remove the sump and how does it come apart. took all alan bolts out, took 3 gearbox bolts out how do u split it?

cheers phil


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

I would think that it will take some prising off as it's sealed with a silicon type of sealant rather than a gasket.


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

bobbobb said:


> halfway though the job trying to remove the sump and how does it come apart. took all alan bolts out, took 3 gearbox bolts out how do u split it?
> 
> cheers phil


Assuming you have taken the three Allen bolts out that are hiding under the fly wheel cover then you need to use some force a sharp wack using a piece of wood to protect it is how I released mine


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Seems like a sensible place to ask this

What are you guys sealing the sump with - is there a gasket, or a particular sealing compound?

How about where the strainer and pump mate up to the internals - any gaskets etc in there?


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

badyaker said:


> Seems like a sensible place to ask this
> 
> What are you guys sealing the sump with - is there a gasket, or a particular sealing compound?
> 
> How about where the strainer and pump mate up to the internals - any gaskets etc in there?


I used the proper sump sealant from Audi

If your parts man know his stuff when you order the pick up pipe/strainer he will also sell you an oring type washer thingamijig that goes with it as well


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## TH3UKRIDDL3R (May 2, 2009)

I used "Dirko - Special Silicone" specific to VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat as it meets recommended specifications.


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