# Can this 'hockey puck' valve go wrong / cause boost issues?



## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

As per the title: been trying to read up on what this thing does and apparently it breathes the rocker case to the TIP and the valve closes during times of high air intake e.g accelerating, Is that correct? Could it cause boost issues or any other issues if it's faulty? Apparently its been superseded too by 06A 129 101 D or E.

Any ideas how to test it. Also, as others have mentioned, the pipe its attached to is extremely flimsy now! Replace?

Cheers!


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## Lee-G (Jan 2, 2011)

Simple answer is yes. The pipe work gets gunged up with crap. You will probably find that the TIP smaller pipes will also be soft. The pipework collapses under boost and/or the valve in your puck doesn't redirect the air and this can give boost problems. Vag-com may show this as a boost leak between turbo nd DV.


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## littco (Jan 2, 2011)

Hopefully this will help, but basically the Puck wont cause boost issues but a faulty PCV will.


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

Thanks very much chaps! Do any of you have a newer version of that part number?

Also, do you know if there is a forge or silicone hose that. How do you test if the PCV is working correctly?


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## littco (Jan 2, 2011)

To test the PCV you need to remove the pipe on the underside of the manifold and blow into it, if it blocks when you blow then it's ok, if you can blow through it then it's faulty.

Many people remove all this pipe work and PCV and fit a catch can.. Resolves many boost problems and gunked up breathers.


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

littco said:


> To test the PCV you need to remove the pipe on the underside of the manifold and blow into it, if it blocks when you blow then it's ok, if you can blow through it then it's faulty.
> 
> Many people remove all this pipe work and PCV and fit a catch can.. Resolves many boost problems and gunked up breathers.


Very sorry to ask so many questions (building up my knowledge), but what pipe do you need to blow? Not the suction pump think?

Is it one of the pipes on the set up below (taken from Grahams leak detective post!)









Thanks again!


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## littco (Jan 2, 2011)

Non of those.










Shown here, this is of a AUM setup so some of the pipes may look different but the PCV is exactly the same.

Sorry to post from another forum, but here is a great write up that will explain it all and also show you about the catch can setup.

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...de-how-fit-catch-can-simplify-pcv-system.html


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

Thanks for the guide! However being dumb, which is the hose you should 'blow' to check the PCV? Ta. [smiley=baby.gif]


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## littco (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok, so it would be this one. Under the centre of the inlet manifold just behind the dipstick .

The one shown in the picture is a block off pipe, but it will give you an idea of where it is located.


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

Would these cracks in the hard pipes that lead to the suction jet 'Y' piece / PCV assembly cause vacuum/idling issues? Just noticed the cracks today when having a look.

Also, I cant seem to find a guide for removing the manifold - is it relatively simple? Need a torque wrench?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

order a catch tank and get rid of the puck and also the recirculating of oil into you tip and hoses... SIMPLE

forge have just developed one.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

is it definitely a manifold off job for those vac pipes which are prone to leaking...? I know a few have changed them.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

GunnerGibson said:


> is it definitely a manifold off job for those vac pipes which are prone to leaking...? I know a few have changed them.


I did a how to for it..
http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=182746&hilit=+below+inlet
although it included removing the N249... I did mine with the manifold on... but it's easy enough to take the inlet manifold off, DON'T BE SCARED it is a easy job.


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

GunnerGibson said:


> is it definitely a manifold off job for those vac pipes which are prone to leaking...? I know a few have changed them.


Gunner do you think I could replace most of the hard plastic lines that have cracked with vacuum hose of the correct diameter instead of ordering the rediculously expensive pipes from Audi? Also, I'd compliment that with the forge kit for the larger pipes around the suction pump thing.



tony_rigby_uk said:


> I did a how to for it..
> http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=182746&hilit=+below+inlet
> although it included removing the N249... I did mine with the manifold on... but it's easy enough to take the inlet manifold off, DON'T BE SCARED it is a easy job.


Thanks tony thats a great help. I'm just a bit sceptical about removing things that are there for safety as apparently this PCV setup also goes to some for of vacuum brake assist? Also the forge catch can is over 200 squids! Looks decent though!


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## mikesimbo (Aug 21, 2009)

mikesimbo said:


> Would these cracks in the hard pipes that lead to the suction jet 'Y' piece / PCV assembly cause vacuum/idling issues? Just noticed the cracks today when having a look.
> 
> Also, I cant seem to find a guide for removing the manifold - is it relatively simple? Need a torque wrench?


There is a fix for these cracks in the vacuum lines either side of the check valve, under the manifold, that provides the vacuum for brake assist and for the PCV system. They costs £1.66 each from audi dealer, and consists of a hard rubber hose and two clic clips to fasten the hard plastic pipe to the check valve where it is usually heated and forced over the valve, causing stress cracks.

Here it is: 









Probably best to use jubilee clips to remove for future though!
Anyway, this might prevent you from buying the whole hard pipe vacuum setup at a cost of £56!

Thanks to WAK for letting me know of these repair kits!
Mike.


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