# Battery Problems Had Enough after a year!



## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Right guys i need some help, we have been having problems with the TT not starting after a day of not using it for well over a year. We had it looked at by 4rings but dean said he would need the car for a few days to get a better idea as to why the car is drainning when left.

So far we have: replaced the battery
had the siren in boot replaced
Microswitch in the passenger door replaced
Other things i cant remember now !

Its got worse and worse, we are now taking the battery out and charging if we dont use the car all day ( like today )

So i decided to look at the voltage on the aircon. Its 11.7v and the car did start ok a few times and when running with lights radio ect on it stays at 14v. Now thats leading me to thinking the alternator is ok. ive took the battery out and its got 11.9v when using a volt meter. So i think there is a 0.2v differance (drain).

Now dean at 4 rings said that he couldn't find a drain when pulling fuses and everything seemed right so we wherethinking its got to be the alarm system.

On vagcom it throws no faults though.

EDIT: We normally use the car everyday so thats why we never left it with 4rings, im sure they could fix it if we gave them time but as she uses the car for work 6 days a week cant leave it.

So what i am hoping is that some bright spark can help me sort this out as its getting to the point where the car is so unreliable in starting that we are thinking maybe we should get something different


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Strange, Dean can't find a current drain, it must be intermittent then. 
A battery at 11.7 or 11.9 volts is definately on its last legs, to go from fully charged to less than 12 volts in less than 24 hours. Have you tried disconnecting the neg lead from battery when not using & then checking volts before reconnecting & starting. Volts should be 12.4 minimum if battery is any good.
Hoggy.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

I'm sure that dean would have found the issue if we had left the car with them a few days to observe. Not trying to bash them in anyway at all. 4rings are 100% great!

Thanks for the reply, I've just put the battery on charge for a hour it's up to 12.57 but I can actually see it dropping slowly with a volt meter once it's pulled from the charger. Like 0.01 every 30 secs

so problem solved I think or woulda battery do this if it's not fully charged.


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## shadowswar (Oct 22, 2010)

This is what was happening to me it's the dashpod it might not show signs of anything else with the dashpod but battery drain was starting of it for me as soon as I got it replaced battery stayed charged no Problem if you find out what fuse the dashpod is connected tto then remove and test then it show a drain 0.2


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

That's what I didn't want it to be. I never get any battery lights come on on the dash. However the car has twice run out of petrol when the dash and gauges said 20 miles ( tight times  ). Also how long does the fuel gauge take To rise after filling with fuel normally, ours is very slow is that normal?

How did it cost to replace the pod? anyone know the pod fuse?


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

Fuse 11 or 15 mate

http://www.wak-tt.com/fuses/fuses1.htm

Does sound like the dashpod at fault... had mine fixed by below company for under £200

http://clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair-list/audi/tt/


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## shadowswar (Oct 22, 2010)

T3RBO said:


> Fuse 11 or 15 mate
> 
> http://www.wak-tt.com/fuses/fuses1.htm
> 
> ...


Who following who now what film did we see again at the cinema


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, A current drain of 0.2 amps/200ma is normal with TT locked & alarmed, > 0.5 amp/500ma is excessive.
Hoggy.


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

shadowswar said:


> Who following who now what film did we see again at the cinema


Megamind :lol:


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Right car has been out of action for a week as my girlfriend hurt her foot, so as nomarl the car drained down to 5v, no dash nothing.

So charged the battery up for 48hr and have just put the battery back in and started here up. Straight away noticed that battery light was on ??? So done volt reading and its a 11.3 when running  So popped bonnet and used a real voltmeter and it is showing no charge from alternator.

Now how the hell does a alternator die when not in use?

Really dont know what to do now there is something seriously wrong with the electrics here

how do i test to see if the alternator is actually outputting anything? and its not just a fuse or something?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi S&S, Think you have already tested alternator & proved it is not charging. Volts should be 14.5 with engine running.
If battery connection are clean & tight then probably the intermittent fault was the alternator,which has now failed, cheaper to replace voltage reg which is usually the fault.
Hoggy.


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

I recently changed my alternator so



T3RBO said:


> If it helps...
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-TT-1-8-T-QUA ... 5641ba8ee6


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

right so i have taken off the alternator cable which connects it to the fuse and placed a volt meter across it connecting it straight to the neg battery terminal, its showing 0.3v

Im not sure if that is the correct way to test it? I take it that it cant be the cables that connect it?

From ur reply you have given me hope in that the alternator could well be the cause of all the misery. I just dont under stand how a faulty alternator could be draining the battery when the car is not moving? Then again i know nothing about these things!

How hard is it to replace the alternator?


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## DVD225 (Oct 15, 2007)

If alternator not working battery not fully charged after your last run so then dies cold weather doesnt help! Check my last post Starting probs, all sorted now with the help from the forum


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

S&S said:


> I just dont under stand how a faulty alternator could be draining the battery when the car is not moving? Then again i know nothing about these things!


Hi S&S, the diodes in the voltage reg part of alternator can fail & cause a reverse flow/drain when alternator is not charging.
Hoggy.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> S&S said:
> 
> 
> > I just dont under stand how a faulty alternator could be draining the battery when the car is not moving? Then again i know nothing about these things!
> ...


sweet that is just what i wanted to hear all makes sense, so i could actually end up fixing the whole problem for just the cost of a voltage regulator, which i can hopefully fit with my own hands


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## ROADSTA (Oct 31, 2004)

I have had this problem with my TT as far back as I can remember, Had the car for over six years now. Had the Dashpod changed a few years back by Audi Brentford. My only soloution is to disconnect the battery EVERY time I park it up over night through the winter months, or when I am not going to drive it for a few days in the summer.

I wanted to add that if I disconnect the battery and leave it for over a week it will still start when connected up after that length of time in the winter...... So Not the BATTERY!!

But if the battery did go flat when I did not bother to disconnect it, then after a jump start, the battery GETS and stays CHARGED by the ALTERNATOR....... So Not the Alternator!!

Am I right in the above???


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Roadsta, Something is draining the battery then, you need to check current drain, using multimeter & pull fuses to check which circuit is causing the prob.Could still be the alternator diodes causing a reverse feed (drain) & flattening battery. Disconnect plugs from alternator leaving battery connected, to prove alternator or not.If no current drain then replace battery.
Have you really lived with prob for 6 years. :? 
Hoggy.


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## rizla (Aug 17, 2010)

I also have exactly the same problem. My car just about stays charged for 2 days without use I use it everyday during the week. If it is a long weekend, I have to jump the TT. I put a new Bosch battery on it 3 months ago and it has now flattened. I got it checked at the place I purchased it and they showed me that the battery was fine, it was just discharging. What fuses should I start with?


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## Munchkinfairy (Jul 20, 2007)

I had similar issues over Christmas, battery taking 2 days to recharge when on car, as though something is draining constantly. After some research [smiley=book2.gif] , it seems that it is very common for the alternator regualtor to fail. I changed the whole alternator, as mine was also squealing as the bearings had gone, and now all the issues are resolved. I would check this issue first if your battery is draining quick, as it is such a common failure, and easy to fix if you just replace the regulator.


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## thedino (Aug 10, 2010)

Also having intermittent battery drain problems - sometimes the car will be fine for a few days, other times it will have drained enough not to start the car within a few hours!! It's had a new battery which has been tested and proved its ok, new dashpod already fitted!

I took it to an auto electrician last week and throughout the day it didn't drop a single amp - bloody typical!!!

Until I can get it booked in at another time I will continue to carry around a spare battery and jump leads for when it does drain... [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## Neil (May 7, 2002)

If the car has a tracker fitted that has developed a fault, it can drain the battery in a day or two. But of course if a previous owner fitted it, you may not know you have one, and they're not easy to find :?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

This may help:

*State of charge:*
Here are some battery rest state voltages (engine off no charging and no major loads for >5 minutes) and the corresponding state of charge:

12.65V 100% 
12.45V 75% 
12.24V 50% 
12.06V 25% 
11.89V or less - Discharged 
11.6V or below - Keeping the battery in this state will damage it - vastly reducing it's capacity.

*Drain*
Put the multimeter on current setting and bridge one of the battery connections to the fuse pannel with secure connections to the meter. Then break the main connection so the current is forced to divert through the meter (meter in series connection). This will tell you what the static current drain is. Make sure all lights including courtesy lights are off when doing this, then reconnect before you loose your radio code etc.! Approximately speaking - your battery capacity should be able to supply several hundred milliamps for one week and still not be completely flat in that time. Normal drain should be well less than this. There have been reported problems with dashpods causing excess drain when faulty. You can trace any excess drain further at the fuse pannels or by disconnection of various items.


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## ROADSTA (Oct 31, 2004)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Roadsta, Something is draining the battery then, you need to check current drain, using multimeter & pull fuses to check which circuit is causing the prob.Could still be the alternator diodes causing a reverse feed (drain) & flattening battery. Disconnect plugs from alternator leaving battery connected, to prove alternator or not.If no current drain then replace battery.
> Have you really lived with prob for 6 years. :?
> Hoggy.


Thanks for the advice, I did just read on here about the regulator being the problem, will have to give that a go, and yes I have lived with this problem for 5/6 years. although it only really effects me in the winter. Having to undo the bolt on the battery everyday and re-tightening caused the bolt to break a few years back, so that shows how much of a problem it is.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Right replaced the regulator this morning and the alternator is still not working 

If i put a voltmeter between the alternator positive and the battery neg its only showing 0.4 v so im now assuming that the actual insides are dead. how can i check this 100% though?

Also just tested it when the car is not running and its showing -0.12v wheen just sitting there


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## GINNO78 (Dec 11, 2010)

Change the Alternator


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

how hard is it to change the alternator? do u need to reomve the turbo ect?


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## zakkiaz (Jun 7, 2009)

My son was having the same problem, it turned out to be the tracker, it was using the main battery , he knew it wasn't too bad a problem as he could charge the battery with a speaker cable!! once he disconnected the tracker as it's not in use at the moment ,everything's ok now.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

where was this tracker located?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

S&S said:


> Right replaced the regulator this morning and the alternator is still not working
> 
> If i put a voltmeter between the alternator positive and the battery neg its only showing 0.4 v so im now assuming that the actual insides are dead. how can i check this 100% though?
> 
> Also just tested it when the car is not running and its showing -0.12v wheen just sitting there


Hi, Don't really understand your checking methods. Put the multimeter (selected to 20 volts usually) on battery terminals with engine running. Volts should read 14.5 v ish. which will prove alternator charging. The diodes are in the voltage reg, which you have replaced so diodes should be O.K. Lets us know what the volts are with engine running. 
Hoggy.


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## kazinak (Mar 23, 2010)

S&S said:


> how hard is it to change the alternator? do u need to reomve the turbo ect?


yes,you need remove turbo and the gearbox :lol:


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Right had the alternator replaced now and the car is now putting out 14.2 V 8)

However the car is still drainning, however ive parked her up out side where i can see it and the alarm appears to be going off by itself. any ideas why this would be happening?


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## WozzaTT (Jan 15, 2006)

S&S said:


> Right had the alternator replaced now and the car is now putting out 14.2 V 8)
> 
> However the car is still drainning, however ive parked her up out side where i can see it and the alarm appears to be going off by itself. any ideas why this would be happening?


The alarms tend to fail after time as the internal battery dies - John H has done a how to on getting the unit open and repalcing the battery I think. Or buy a new one.

Mine started going off for no reason about 12 months ago so I just disconnected it.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Dead again ahhhhhhhh! One day and the voltage was down to 10.8v

I've replaced the alarm siren all ready, new battery, new alternator, new microswitch in the door, new wiper motor, new window mechanism. Still draining and I'm getting a little bit pissed with it!

Just had to take the battery out at 11pm got to get up at 6am and put the battery back in just so she will start tomorrow! What a ball ache!

However is it strange that the concert radio never ever needs a code! Could this be something to do with it?


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## chrisash32 (Aug 24, 2010)

Hi,
I was working on Dino's car over the weekend, who mentioned on page 2 he was having these battery drain issues.
I had been following his saga for months having to carry a battery around with him to jump off. He must have tried everything you have to eliminate this problem and even i was out of ideas!!

Thankfully Dino's problems have now come to an end after having his dash pod sent off to be checked. Even though it had no visual problems and vag-com threw up no errors, it was a last chance attempt.

Anyway, lucky for Dean it turns out his dash pod had a faulty CPU which was causing the unit not to power off in the background when the car was powered down..

It might be worth getting yours checked out?
I am sure Dino will pop on here with the details 

Cheers
Chris


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## turbo_terrific (Jul 16, 2002)

Sorry if this is already covered, but do you have an aftermarket Stereo / Car kit or Tracker installed?

Richard


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

Had this prob.

*Dash pod to blame.*

another culprit is the after run pump,.. these can stick on due to fan module faults.

GG


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

I'm at my whits end with it, the car is fine except for this! And it so annoying, which fuse powers the dash? Could
I take it out to see if it's drainning. I see no faults on the dash pods, unless anyone else fuel gauge takes a little while to go up after filling up?

It's all standard Bose stuff but the head unit never needs a code even when the battery is disconnected and I'm sure this shouldnt happen


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## chrisash32 (Aug 24, 2010)

S&S said:


> I'm at my whits end with it, the car is fine except for this! And it so annoying, which fuse powers the dash? Could
> I take it out to see if it's drainning. I see no faults on the dash pods, unless anyone else fuel gauge takes a little while to go up after filling up?
> 
> It's all standard Bose stuff but the head unit never needs a code even when the battery is disconnected and I'm sure this shouldnt happen


Pulling the fuse to the dash pod does not make a difference. We tried this with Dino's TT and still had the battery drain.
It required the dash pod to be sent away and tested before the issue with it was found.

I wouldn't be worried about the head unit. It could have been previously decoded, but you could pull the fuse for this to be on the safe side if you wanted to. Or even disconnect + Remove it entirely for a few days?

Chris


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You could measure the current drain at the battery with a multimeter, breaking the circuit to one of the connections with the meter on highest current range already across the intended break so as not to risk high current spikes through the meter which could blow the fuse. Even better would be a non intrusive DC clamp meter. See what it drains, if continuously or only when the car is locked etc. and then through each fuse link to isolate it further. This may help: http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/2002 ... Wiring.pdf

If it's a 60AH battery then simplistically 1 Amp drain should last 60 hours, 2 Amps 30 hours etc. For it to drain overnight it must be draining 6 amps or so - unless the battery is reduced capacity through age or being left discharged for too long and has become damaged through sulphation.


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## E3 YOB (Mar 2, 2010)

> However is it strange that the concert radio never ever needs a code! Could this be something to do with it?


This should only have a connection to a permanent live (no ignition) - If when you disconnect the battery it does not need a code then something 'seems' wrong. The stereo should need a code when there is no power going to it.

Steps:

1. Take the stereo fuse out and see if you are getting a drain 20A yellow fuse
2. Try turning the stereo on without the fuse in
3. Take the stereo out and see if there is anything the doesn't look standard to you behind

Fraser


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## Aragorn84 (Apr 4, 2011)

Remember, you cant say "it can supply 1A for 60hours" because it needs to have enough charge left to actually start the car as well... A batterys cranking performance at 50% charge will be hugely reduced over one at 90-100% charge.

You need to put a meter in series with the battery on current setting (usually labelled 10A, and usually has its own connection for the positive lead), and pull fuses/disconnect stuff until the drain goes away, thus isolating the circuit thats causing it.

In the mean time, every time you park up, lift the bonnet and pull the battery negative lead. Continually draining the battery WILL wreck it, so disconnecting it ensures the battery isnt damaged until you fix the drain.

The concert doesnt usually need a code if its still in its original home. It chats with the cluster over canbus etc so it recognises everythings fine. Usually it displays "LEARN" when you reconnect the battery and then should power right up.


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Tracker

Fitted in 'secret' places by Tracker staff.
Wont tell you where as the scum will note this and then will rip them out when they nick it.
Tracker can tell if fitted and working they 'may' advise on check procedure through installer.
Call 0845 602 2356

Wont help the thread starter I am sure he has a major problem that isn't one of these low power devices.....


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Thanks for the replies will look in to it this weekend when I understand what I need to do a bit more!

Is it normal for the fuel gauge to take about a hour to register a full tank?


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Nope..... any weird fuel gauge stuff is almost certainly a dashpod issue...


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Another clue in the dashpod direction.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Right I have unfused 10a meter here, disconnected the negative placed one end on the battery other on lead and nothing happens? What am I doing wrong?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi S&S, Is it a digital meter or analogue, if analogue reverse the meter leads.
Hoggy.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

S&S said:


> What am I doing wrong?


not listening to our advice that your pod is at fault.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

GunnerGibson said:


> S&S said:
> 
> 
> > What am I doing wrong?
> ...


I think it is the pod but since I had a meter in my hand and a hour spare thought I would investigate. Is that not the point of this forum? If I wanted it sorted without trying to check myself I would just take it to Audi.

However I'm trying to see if I can detect anything else before u rip the dash out send it off , and it comes back with a working fuel gauge and that is it

Back to more constructive replys , it's a digital meter which is 10a unfused. Battery neg disconnected bridged with leads nothing. Black in com port red in special 10adc


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi S&S, Red cable normally goes into 10 amp socket/port....Edit.. Sorry thats how you've get it connected.
Hoggy.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

S&S said:


> GunnerGibson said:
> 
> 
> > S&S said:
> ...


apologies on second reading my reply was a bit rash...

Tracing a electrical drainage fault is one of the most tedious things, its up there with leak testing....I must admit I had a similar problem, which was resolved with a dash pod change..

your right the outlay of cash for a dash repair is a lot, and if not resolved would be a pain...

I have had the fan control module go open circuit and cause drain as well.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi S&S, With meter connected, switch something on, do you get a reading then, if not something wrong with meter or connections.
Hoggy.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Thats cool gunner at least you took time to reply 

Seems like I've fried the meter 

Fans cut in and out fine check that when I did the thermostat 

Is there a guide to take out the dashpod any places you can take the car to and they test it and say yep that's ducked that's ur problem


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi S&S, With meter connected, switch something on, do you get a reading then, if not something wrong with meter or connections.
> Hoggy.


Nothing happens no dash lights or anything seems like circuit is not completed


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi S&S, Perhaps you have fried the meter then. Heres a link to remove Pod. 
http://www.bigmassive.co.uk/blog/wp-con ... emoval.pdf
Hoggy.


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## S&amp;S (Mar 29, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi S&S, Perhaps you have fried the meter then. Heres a link to remove Pod.
> http://www.bigmassive.co.uk/blog/wp-con ... emoval.pdf
> Hoggy.


Thanks hoggy but That link is dead


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

S&S said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi S&S, Perhaps you have fried the meter then. Heres a link to remove Pod.
> ...


Hi S&S, works O.K. for me. Took a while to download first time,try again.
Hoggy.


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