# Tiny Garage Problems



## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

Hi All,

I'm new to the forums here as i'm looking to get a 2009 TTS any day now, i've just been clearing up my garage ready to hold it. However, i've put the dimensions of my garage and the TTS into a CAD program and i'll only have about 30cm between the door and the garage wall.

Is the door so large that this is going to kill my dream? I'm pretty skinny but wanted to know from an owner of a mk2 if this is just not going to happen for me.

Thanks,
Tom


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

My garage is pretty narrow too, but I can still manage to get in and out. I've also installed wall pads to protect the door edges. Actually, I stuck two together, to double the padding, and did this on both walls. I also have a tennis ball hanging from a string in front so I know if I'm far enough in.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/protector-gara ... B01M3UUMVG

I can measure my garage and door-to-wall distance tomorrow and give you some real-world dimensions.

*EDIT* - Similar to 'tomasfuk' have to park slightly off center (but still straight in) with more room on the drivers side (LHD) which allows me to open the door to the first detent. My garage door opening is just shy of 240-cm and the usable inside width is just under 3-meters. I can easily get into my garage passing 20-cm (left side) from the garage opening with the mirrors extended, so the right mirror is probably passing about 15-cm from the other side. I've gotten used to the distance and no longer bother folding my mirrors.

Once inside the garage, this puts me around 50 to 60-cm from the wall. Anything less than 50-cm, and it becomes a challenge getting in an out comfortably.

You'll note in the pictures, when I am just touching the tennis ball, my wall pad is positioned nearly dead-center to where to the edge of the open door touches them. This way, even if I'm slightly fore or aft of the ball, the pad is long enough to still provide protection to the doors.

So - take the width of the TT, the width of your garage, and figure you'll need between 50-60 cm minimum to comfortably open the driver's doors. Don't forget to take into account the opening of the garage and any protrusion from the garage door hardware.


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

That'd be great if you could let me know the gap you have! I just don't want to buy it and find i can't get out of the car.


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

Some owners with narrow single garages have mentioned that lowering the driver's window aids getting in / out of the car when the door cannot be opened very far. It's the length of the door that seems to be the issue.


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## tomasfuk (Oct 27, 2018)

My garage is 279 cm wide and I must park at an angle to be able to get out. The door protector on the wall is a must.


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## Rosscotts (Apr 28, 2019)

How small is the garage ? My house is a new build with built in garage . The tt fits in no problem, I park with the passenger side close to the side wall


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

At it's narrowest it's 2.247m wide


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## tomasfuk (Oct 27, 2018)

Graham'sTT said:


> It's the length of the door that seems to be the issue.


And the thickness of the door as well.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Graham'sTT said:


> Some owners with narrow single garages have mentioned that lowering the driver's window aids getting in / out of the car when the door cannot be opened very far.


Like this ? :lol:









Anyway, a MK2 TT is 1952mm mirror to mirror. You could save a few mm if you fold your mirrors in before parking (but not many). If your garage is 2274mm at it narrowest point, that leaves 295mm with the passenger side touching the wall.

If you open the driver's door 295mm there is approx 150mm space (6 inches) between the interior door panel and the door frame. (Again, this is with the passenger's side touching one wall and the driver's door touching the other)

You might be thin but...


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

You guys have all been brilliant. Thanks so much for all the useful feedback. 
Looks like I might be out of luck though... I'll park my company car against a wall later to see if I could squeeze through a gap that small but it's unlikely.

My second choice would be a mk1 3.2. I'll go see if those have thinner doors!

Thanks again for all the help and all so quickly.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> So - take the width of the TT, the width of your garage, and figure you'll need between 50-60 cm minimum * to comfortably open the driver's doors. Don't forget to take into account the opening of the garage and any protrusion from the garage door hardware.


Unfortunately Clayton-tc has less than 30cm, and that is assuming he can park with 0cm on the passenger-side without damage.

Ever consider a motorcycle? [smiley=cheers.gif]

* emphasis added by me


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## p1tse (Sep 20, 2004)

What great detailed info from members

It's hard to tell, as you're doing it on CAD versus actuals ie
Would you
- park nose front
- reverse in
- what angles can be had from both for more door leverage
- what garage doors and frame you have
- get protectors, drop the windows and then squeeze out if you roll back seats
- does it have to live inside garage
-


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## ashfinlayson (Oct 26, 2013)

Leave it on the drive and turn your garage into a workshop, much better use of space


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

p1tse said:


> What great detailed info from members


I second this!

I just wanted to thank you all again for the advise. Really appreciated.
My VW CC is 1855mm with the mirrors in so i'll try that in the garage an see how i get on. I've still got to wait for my new shed to be delivered before i can try it out (21st May) but i'll keep you all updated. If not it looks like the Twizzy is the way forward... what's a Twizzy's 0-60? :lol:


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

OK - It depends how badly you want your TT.
You could try a roadster, a rope ladder, a pair of 'driving socks' and a convenience module for the soft top.


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

So, I've done it. Garage is empty and I can get a CC in (wider body and wider mirror) and get out.

1 last issue I need to ask though... Do the windows go up if you hold down the lock key on a 2009 TTS? I honestly think I'd need to window down to get out! I needed to with my CC.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

The front isn't in

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

HOGG said:


> The front isn't in
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


lol.
Fortunately there's still a few bits behind the car yet to be cleared out and the CC is 72.4cm longer than the TT too. So I'm not worried about that.I just need to check with you guys to see if i can raise the windows from the key fob on a TT once I've got out of the car.


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## SamoaChris (Jun 24, 2014)

clayton-tc said:


> So, I've done it. Garage is empty and I can get a CC in (wider body and wider mirror) and get out.
> 
> 1 last issue I need to ask though...
> 
> ...


The Passat CC is a 4 door though and the doors won't be as long as the TT's so you might still stuggle.


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

SamoaChris said:


> clayton-tc said:
> 
> 
> > So, I've done it. Garage is empty and I can get a CC in (wider body and wider mirror) and get out.
> ...


I had considered that, but i lose around 10cm of space in the CC due to it being wider, plus i didn't get it tight to the wall on the passenger side (with mirror out too that adds width). With my sums, i reckon i could gain an extra 10cm to get out in the TT and i'm gambling that that'll be enough with the larger doors (fingers crossed).

But in the end i love the TT, and even if i have to climb out the damn window i'll make it work!


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## ashfinlayson (Oct 26, 2013)

Comfort windows can be enabled on the DIS on the facelift models, don't know about the earlier version but you can easily check during a dest drive, just press the button on the underside of the wiper stalk until you get to the menu and enable it. Then just hold lock and unlock to go up and down.

Agree with @SamoaChris the doors on the TT will be a bit longer than the Passat, a bit of carpet on the wall wont be a bad idea. If all else fails, the boot release is by the door and the seats go down on the coupe if you need to climb out of the boot


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

clayton-tc said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> > The front isn't in
> ...


Not sure if you can do it with the remote, but if you turn the key in the door lock (to lock) and hold, then the windows go up on my pre-facelift roadster.


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

"If all else fails, the boot release is by the door and the seats go down on the coupe if you need to climb out of the boot"

Reminds me that my daughter had to exit her old Punto that way if she parked it alongside the house on her driveway.
Cannot do it now as she has a mk5 Golf and that won't even go down her drive.


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

For anyone who wanted closure on this story... it's in!!!!


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

Snug.
Congrats.
And I do hope all those items hanging on the walls are securely fixed!


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

That is insane. My lawn-mower gets more space than that. [smiley=speechless.gif] 
Better hope you never have battery issues with your window's up


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

+1 


FNChaos said:


> That is insane. My lawn-mower gets more space than that. [smiley=speechless.gif]
> Better hope you never have battery issues with your window's up


Should that ever happen, be sure to read this -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1900191

.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> +1  Should that ever happen, be sure to read this -
> 
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1900191


That's fine if you have access from inside, but if you park and roll up your windows via the keyfob you'll have a hell of a time getting back in should the battery fail

I'd definitely suggest wiring up a battery charge point accessible from the front grill


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## Jonah67red (Jan 17, 2019)

My god that's tight  you're going to be calorie counting for your entire ownership [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

You would think someone would come up with some sort of tray on buried rails you would park on outside the garage then simply push or electrically operate to motor the car in, and do the same to pull it out of the garage onto the drive, you would never have to worry about dinging doors again.

Something like this

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LMa2wBCtL ... ah6cyr4GbQ


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ FNChaos - True. One still has to be able to get to the hood release lever to open the hood in the first place. That's a great idea!

It's unfortunate CTEK doesn't offer a panel mount. Although you could go with a 12-V panel mount used for motorcycles. This could be fitted from behind the fog light panel, coming out through a grill opening, so it's almost invisible. Available on Amazon -

*[UK]* https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shiwaki-Sidewa ... B07QLQWB46
*[DE]* https://www.amazon.de/perfk-Motorrad-Ba ... B07JW7PRP7









@ Taylortony - Another option would be guide rails bolted to the floor, similar to the ones you see in the fully automated car wash. At least he could put it in neutral and push it in. Leave the tow-eye bolt in in order to pull it back out.

My Swiss garage is narrow enough, I can't imagine living with that situation. I think Ash had the right idea - leave the car outside and turn that closet...er garage...into a workshop.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

clayton-tc said:


> For anyone who wanted closure on this story... it's in!!!!


How the hell did you get out?

Maybe you're still in there? 

It's witchcraft I tells thee!


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## Stiff (Jun 15, 2015)




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## MarkyMark66 (Dec 24, 2017)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... XSJ7dprzf4


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## suzannec (May 20, 2017)

Impressive. Please carpet the walls! Did mine with PVA and left over carpet but I've got way more room than you!


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## clayton-tc (May 6, 2019)

Thanks for the advice. I've setup a trickle charger now so I won't risk a dead battery


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

FNChaos said:


> I'd definitely suggest wiring up a battery charge point accessible from the front grill













SwissJetPilot said:


> This mod really keeps running around in my head! Can you show me where and how you connected these wires in the engine bay? I know there's the two jumper points, but at least on mine, there doesn't seem to be a place to connect anything.


I'm sure there are many ways to 'skin a cat', but here is a quick summary on how I connected up my Ctek charger:

First, I purchased a Ctek extension cable. After verifying which end connected to the charger, I cut off the unused end. (double, triple check this  )

The lower air grill is removable without tools. Just need a good pull. Behind this you will find a plastic 'blanking' panel. This also removes without tools (but you might need a screwdriver or molding removal tool to get behind it)

Once I determined where I wanted to mount the connector, I marked and drilled a hole though the blanking plate for the extension cable to pass through.
Originally I was just going to drill a hole big enough to insert a rubber grommet (to prevent wear on the charging cable) but instead I drilled a slightly larger hole that allowed me to pass a length of tubing through a (larger) grommet and then the wiring through the hose.









I added the tubing for two purposes, (1) to add a protective 'sheath' to the wiring (since it does connect directly to the battery) and (2) to add stiffness to ensure the wire routing would never move and come in contact with fans, pulleys, etc. I can't remember if I used vacuum hose or fuel line (doesn't matter).

From there I added a quick disconnect in case I ever needed to remove the grill / blanking panel, I also added enough tubing / cable to form a 'service loop' in case I just needed to move things a bit.









Picture shows two 'bullet-type' connectors (I ordered a 2-pin nylon connector but it arrived after I installed this - Someday I will get around and replace them) Just for safety I alternated the bullet connectors so I couldn't screw up polarity should I need to disconnect the extension.

The positive lead connects to an unused terminal on the power buss that is found at the front of the fuse block. Also note, I added an in-line fuse holder (again, the wiring connects directly to your battery so you can't be too safe)









The ground connection was made by connecting to the frame via a bolt located slightly below the air box and a little left of the fuse box (any metal to metal bolt should work)









One additional note: With the charging connector down low, it is easy to forget you're connected.
That latching mechanism isn't very strong so you are not likely to damage anything but... (ask me how I know :lol: )









Sign posted at eye level directly in front of my parking space...

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions and I will see if I can help


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## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

You might be better with a charger connected sign hung on the steering wheel.


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

I connected mine up like above, except for the earth I used the jumping connection behind the airbag but live in the fuse box. I just lift the bonnet to connect up.

If you are worried about driving off with it connected get one of the magnetic connectors, like Bentley/Ferrari etc do as standard.

CTEK do them although won't sell them individually, but eBay has some;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ctek-Bentley ... 2967433244

You then just need one of these;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BC-Battery-Con ... B07BQC76D2

Can be had a lot cheaper if you search around.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Much cheaper & easy DIY to wire up.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Volt-Powe ... SwtpFckiKu
Hoggy.


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