# Tired Roadster Roof



## davegill79 (Oct 23, 2008)

I have a 2000 Roadster but the electric roof has become rather 'tired', especially during these winter months. I'm thinking of just lubricating the joints with WD40, but I seem to recall reading something about 're-gassing' the hydraulic controller. The roof barely moves now before the motor cuts out once it's been lowered, and it's rather sluggish putting it down. Any advice greatly appreciated.


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Mine too! Advice would be much appreiciated
Cheers
Tom


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Hi has anybody any ideas on this one 
cheers
Tom


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## KentishTT (Jun 28, 2007)

Have you checked the fluid level (the reservoir is buried in the rear compartment somewhere)?

If the fluid level is low you may have a leaking hydraulic ram.


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## davegill79 (Oct 23, 2008)

Okay, I'll have a dig around. A more specific location would be helpful though before I start removing all manner of bits of trim! Will post to let you know how I get on bu just had a knee operation though, so won't be for a few days.


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Well finally sorted my roof today! After hours of trying to get fluid down through the top where the small motor is removed and getting nowhere i ended up drilling a small hole in the top of the resevoir and used a syringe to get the fluid in. I then fitted a grommet into the hole to reseal it (this part is not pessurised), job done!! The roof now works a dream at last!
Cheers
Tom


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## KentishTT (Jun 28, 2007)

Was your reservoir empty?

Were you able to collect the swarf from drilling the hole? ....you don't want that getting into the hydraulic pump!

If the reservoir was quite low or even empty, now is the time to check for signs of leaks over the next few weeks as it shouldn't in theory ever need more than a minor top up.


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Unfortunatley I couldn't see how low the level was due to the position of the resevoir so just put enough fluid in to get the roof working properly and then added an extra 150ml of fluid. I heated the end of the drill bit so it was basicaly melting the hole as opposed to drilling to avoid bits of plastic swarf falling in. As you say now is the time to check for leaks, has anybody had experience of this and know where the most probable area of leakage would be?
Cheers
Tom


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## woztt (Jan 3, 2008)

mine is same prob will need to refill but where is the reservoir located? does any one know how to replace fluid with out drilling


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Davegill79 you have PM
Cheers
Tom


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## KentishTT (Jun 28, 2007)

El Greco said:


> Davegill79 you have PM
> Cheers
> Tom


Can you keep the discussion on the forum please as it helps others (unless it was a different O/T private discussion of course) 

Thanks!


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## davegill79 (Oct 23, 2008)

Right. Finally got around to doing this myself. Big Thanks to El Greco (Tom) above who told me what to do. I've just taken a few photos and added some description so hopefully this will be some use to your folks too. It's really rather straight forward.

Firstly, behind the passenger seat hoop in the cavity where the roof goes, there is a compartment. Remove the cover to reveal the grey insulating material shown. Carefully take a Stanley knife or similar around the insulation that is about 10mm thick.










Remove the insulation and now you can see the motor mechanism. See photo below.










The chamber you need to fill is slightly out of sight, behind the motor with the blue connector. Unplug the connector and remove the two torx screws. The motor is a snug fit with rubber o-ring seals so it spins but doesn't pull straight out so you'll need to insert a flat head screwdriver or something to prise it out. However, depending how 'tired' your roof is, expect some fluid to escape as you remove the motor. I recommend packing some cloth or kitchen towel around to catch any fluid that escapes. Now you can see the white chamber where you need to insert the fluid. See photo below.










I recommend at this point you cover over the exposed hole with some tape to protect it from the swarf you're going to create in the next stage. Time to drill a small hole in the chamber. You need to minimise any swarf getting into the mechanism, hence the tape over the already exposed hole. To get into the chamber, I personally drilled slowly, brushing any swarf away as I went. When I got to the end (it's about 3mm thick) I simply pushed through and was able to extract the last small circular piece of plastic that was adhered to the edge of the hole with a pair of needle nosed pliers. El Greco recommended melting thorough the unit with a hot drill bit, but personally, I wasn't too keen on a hot source around the back of the TT, it's a fiddly enough job without naked flames! You can see the small piece I tweezered out in the picture below. Drill your hole slightly further away from the metal than I did, it'll be easier to seal the hole later and I created a little unwanted metal swarf.










Now, using an oral syringe (buy from any chemist), syringe in lots of power steering fluid, until you can see the level in the chamber. Don't fill to the brim. My syringe was 5ml and I needed about 20 doses, but it would have taken more. Seal the hole using a rubber grommet or similar, refit the electric motor and wiring (new o-rings not necessary) and replace the insulation. The chamber isn't under any pressure, so don't worry if your reseal job isn't too good.

Now for the best bit, simply run the roof up and down and the whole mechanism sorts itself out, replenishing the hydraulics with the fluid you just added. Voila!

Happy summer motoring......


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## Ancien-TT (Sep 22, 2007)

Thanks for a great write up. Even I could manage that!

Can this be listed/stored as a "how to" anywhere to make it easy to find


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## El Greco (Mar 9, 2006)

Hi,
Well that is a better write up than i could have even hoped to have done, (and i didn't take any pics). pleased to have been helpfull.
Cheers
Tom


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## topstitch (Apr 17, 2009)

is there anyway of topping up the fluid without making holes


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## davegill79 (Oct 23, 2008)

Probably by removing the whole unit and disassembling, however I thnik you need to remove the roof, lots of trim, and goodness knows what else. I know which I prefer, and several weeks on with significant usage, it still works a treat. Get drilling!


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## Stats (Oct 26, 2007)

topstitch said:


> is there anyway of topping up the fluid without making holes


Yep,there is! ... but



davegill79 said:


> Probably by removing the whole unit and disassembling, however I thnik you need to remove the roof, lots of trim, and goodness knows what else.


... what Davegill79 says is very true, if you follow the workshop manuals (Elsawin at least)

- Remove trim behind seats
- Remove Soft Top
- Remove Soft Top Storage Compartment trim

- then can you access the pump. (To be fair, the workshop procedure is for servicing the complete hydraulic set up for the roof and allows for its removal)

I've recently had the hydraulic issue at about the same time that some w**ker slashed the soft top in an effort to break in.

I also wanted to see where the 'missing fluid' had gone and to find the leak. I totally stripped the interior (including carpeting), removed the soft top, stripped the storage compartment and removed the whole hydraulic system.

Found the area immediately below both hydraulic struts liberally coated with hydraulic fluid. It has eventually settled below the carpeting in both rear corners of the cab. It appears that the moulded foam backing the carpet does not like the fluid. The oldest effected areas were blackened and spongier than normal. I'm hoping that the thorough washing I've done will halt any further deterioration.

I suggest, that as a precaution, anyone needing to 'top up' the soft top reservoir also seek to investigate the cause. The fluid that's missing ... isn't ... it's hiding!

I used the following procedure to top up the reservoir. Very easy job with the soft top removed and not that much worse with the top on (and up)

1. Follow Davegill79s clear instructions to expose the pump. 
- I'm pretty sure you can simply pull the sound insulation up through the hatch rather than cutting but as mine was missing when I opened the hatch I can't be sure.

2. The Fill Hole is located on the side of the pump (nearest the front of the car) - see arrow


















2a. Easier to see here - pump removed from car


















3. Remove Plug










4. Stats Filler tool










5. Topping up










The system is self bleeding - all you need do is lower & raise the top a couple of times.

After that, recheck reservoir level again & top off in need.

Hope this helps.

ps. I'll get back if / when I find the leak(s). I'm guessing it's the seals on the struts & praying it's not. They are AUD 609 a piece here in Oz (before VAT)


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## tohass (Nov 3, 2007)

Why not using a soldering iron to make the hole instead of drilling?


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## WhiTT (Dec 3, 2009)

Stats said:


> topstitch said:
> 
> 
> > is there anyway of topping up the fluid without making holes
> ...


I found this earlier and going to give this a try, fingers crossed.

If the hydraulic uprights need to be replaced does anyone know how much these are approx and difficulty fitting?.

Thanks


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## Jaguar77 (Apr 7, 2010)

I was having similar problems with my convertible roof. I was still hearing a noise when I hit the switch so I figured it just needed topped off with fluid. I followed the procedures, removing the small celinoid pump thingy, and then took a soldiering iron and made a small hole in the reservoir. I then used a turkey flavor injector syringe and put power steering fluid into it until it overflowed from the hole that the little pump thing attaches to.

After putting it all back together, I noticed no difference. When trying to put the roof down, it does catch a little bit in the middle of the cycle. Trying to put it back up yields nothing. It makes the noise like its trying but it just doesn't catch at all.

Any other ideas I can try before I take it in and pay out the ass to try and get it fixed?

Thanks!


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## neoo-cy-tt (Nov 29, 2008)

used this method and solve my problem, but i have to say that the big problem came from the but contact on the relays, the opening relay pins were rusted , so after filling up the bottle the roof is faster and with the cleaning of the relays is working without any pauses!


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## Kristian_TT (Oct 31, 2006)

Could someone please explain exactly where in the car this pump is located? Removed the panel behind the driver seat (LHD) today, but couldnt see it anywhere..


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## WhittleTT (Sep 11, 2010)

Hi,

I think you access this from the left hand side in the boot.

Andy


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## Kristian_TT (Oct 31, 2006)

WhittleTT said:


> Hi,
> 
> I think you access this from the left hand side in the boot.
> 
> Andy


Aha, thx. I will check this out some day.


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## cabbie-uk (Oct 23, 2010)

HI just a thought but can't you top up in the hole when you remove motor ? If it has o rings then I presume they are there to seal . ? Fingers crossed mines ok at mo , but good write up .


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## yngveson (Sep 18, 2012)

Is there any problems associated with removing the top solenoid from the hydraulic pump?
This would give me much more space when trying to refill the reservoir.


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## terje180 (Jul 16, 2011)

Is there anyone living nearby Aberdeen that wants to carry out the refill reservoir job on my Roadster as it wont go up nor down anymore??


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## terje180 (Jul 16, 2011)

I tackled this small job myself today.It took me less than an hour to carry out.And best of all I turned on the ignition and my tired roof went down as usual..But up for a change too

Thanks for posting that helpful pictures and saving me a fortune from Aberdeen Audi garage!


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## starolive (Sep 29, 2010)

Hello All,

I drained the hydraulic central 2 years ago and it's not very difficult to pull off the unit (no need to put off the roof for example..)

During the operation :



Cheers, Olivier.


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## nott (Apr 6, 2013)

starolive said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I drained the hydraulic central 2 years ago and it's not very difficult to pull off the unit (no need to put off the roof for example..)
> 
> ...


Hi Olivier do you have details of how the panels come off to access the pump


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## Darren_d (Jun 20, 2013)

Also v. Interested in this as I have the same issue.


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## starolive (Sep 29, 2010)

1- pull off the center speaker grill with flat screwdriver
2- unscrew the speaker screws
3- pull off the center plastic trim (fixed with 6 metal clips)
4- pull off the disc changer
5- pull off the left plastic trim (many metal clip, becarefull thet are fragile)

In order to unscrew the hydraulic central I cut the gray protection on the 4 corner

When you have the hydraulic central off (like on my picture) unscrew the drain plug, let the old oil drain and fill out with hydraulic oil until the mark on the little plastic tank.

Put all back and enjoy the roof working like the first day 

Cheers Olivier.

I had changed the electric windshot also. So if someone need help... :wink:


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## Darren_d (Jun 20, 2013)

Cool, thanks.

Will give that a shot.


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## DEXTERDOG (Jun 27, 2006)

Brilliant past 2 years I have been keeping fit in the summer manually operating the roof. Decided today to check the switch as I thought this was where the problem lie. Found this thread and gave it a try.
Roof went down first try, but was not having it on for the up, however a couple of manual push ups and it now rises on the switch. Big thanks for effort with the pics.


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## midlandaudi (Aug 10, 2013)

Is this the same place and procedure for a mk2? My roof doesnt even make the motor sound... flaps lift and nothing...... if i manually lift it up it will lock corectly and in the hot weather it did on a couple of occassions open but now nothing....!


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## Darren_d (Jun 20, 2013)

I was unable to figure out Olivier's instructions for this. Maybe it only applies to LHD cars as I removed all of the trim peices but there was still a metal divide between the motor and cd changer/speaker openings.

So I followed the initial instructions, melted hole, filled with fluid, however I have just tested the grommet on a plastic bottle before putting it in the car and the seal is not watertight. Does it need to be so? I presume that the motor rotates when the roof is opening and therefore if its not watertight the fluid would leak.


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## DEXTERDOG (Jun 27, 2006)

My repair working fine. Reservoir not under pressure so should not leak if sealed. I cut down the tip of a sealant tube and just pressed it home.


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## Darren_d (Jun 20, 2013)

DEXTERDOG said:


> My repair working fine. Reservoir not under pressure so should not leak if sealed. I cut down the tip of a sealant tube and just pressed it home.


I did exactly the same and it worked and no leaks, checked fluid after about 6 ups and downs of roof.


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## audakias (Jul 9, 2014)

Do you know if this needs service every sort amount of time?


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## DEXTERDOG (Jun 27, 2006)

My roof repair worked for some time, however it stopped completely on the switch some time ago. I topped up the reservoir again and after a while it goes down o k but not having it on the way up. Auto electrician reckons there is a micro switch somewhere and this may have failed.


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

DEXTERDOG said:


> My roof repair worked for some time, however it stopped completely on the switch some time ago. I topped up the reservoir again and after a while it goes down o k but not having it on the way up. Auto electrician reckons there is a micro switch somewhere and this may have failed.


It'll be the switch module that you are using to raise and lower the roof. Mine went and I just replaced it with a secondhand one off the bay. Think they're about £60 new off audi... It's a simple plug and play job btw.


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## thebluemax (Oct 11, 2012)

Stats said:


> topstitch said:
> 
> 
> > is there anyway of topping up the fluid without making holes
> ...


fabulous write up for us roadster guys as usual....top owners and top site...


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## Eric V. (Apr 28, 2012)

You can get to the pump from the boot.
Cut the insulation of the pump from boot and chubby hole.
2 bolds for the pump disconect power plug go back in the boot unclip the hoses out of the clips pull and rotate the pump to acces filler hole.
2hours job see photo in my bucket of the pump out and rotatet in the boot.
http://www.photobucket.com/ericv

Good luck
Eric V.


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## K.lumsden1955 (Apr 19, 2014)

Can someone tell me how to access the relays for the roof on my mk 1 roadster....roof not reclining

Thanks

Kenny


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## audakias (Jul 9, 2014)

starolive said:


> 1- pull off the center speaker grill with flat screwdriver
> 2- unscrew the speaker screws
> 3- pull off the center plastic trim (fixed with 6 metal clips)
> 4- pull off the disc changer
> 5- pull off the left plastic trim (many metal clip, becarefull thet are fragile)


Hi mate,

I am stuck in the third step. Where are these 6 metal clips?


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

Hi guys.

Just acquired a 2004 roadster. Roof was working fine but has now stopped. Going to give this a try and see if makes any difference. Local Audi In Dublin wanted €160/ hr just to attempt and diagnose the problem so if works will be most grateful.

Great forum.

K


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## Donay (Sep 30, 2013)

Ancien-TT said:


> Thanks for a great write up. Even I could manage that!
> 
> Can this be listed/stored as a "how to" anywhere to make it easy to find


would be easy enough to find by checking your posts since you responded to it


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

After many cuts and bruises managed to top up the reservoir as per instructions.

No joy, can hear and feel the relays "click" when operating the switch to open close but no movement. Gave the motor a good few whacks with rubber hammer in case had stuck but nothing. The fluid I put in the reservoir (70 ml to overflow) has transferred into the struts and satisfied no leaks there.

Went to Audi and apparently only 2 pumps in UK & ROI at dealers showing in stock at cost of €1485 and 5 hours to fit. Ordered one from the U.S. On eBay for £120 ish by time customs take their slice so will see if replace the unit cures it. If not and another problem may well have a spare to sell.


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

Just thought would post an update.

The pump wasn't the problem in the end. Turns out there was some corrosion to the terminals in panel under kick plate below the dash. New terminal connections and fuse installed and roof working. More concerned where water came from as the drains under windscreen wipers were all clear. The driver footwell is sometimes damp too so further investigation required maybe on a ramp.


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## Boruki (Mar 2, 2014)

Glad you got it sorted!

There are some gromits under the panel under the windscreen (outside) near the ecu. If these are loose or split you may get some water come down in to the car. I know mine wasn't happy to reseat after I did my boost gauge through it.


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## DEXTERDOG (Jun 27, 2006)

"Turns out there was some corrosion to the terminals in panel under kick plate below the dash."
Could you please clarify exact position of Kick plate. Also what is this kick plate?


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

It's the interior panel under steering wheel - at least that's what I call it 

Can be removed easily by opening drivers door, unscrewing couple of torx screws at side fuse panel and another 2 screws under either side of steering wheel. Once unscrewed If pull the panel up and out comes out quite easily. The panel rests on two white plastic clips with a slot so it guides back into place.


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## DEXTERDOG (Jun 27, 2006)

Managed to pull panel down, but not pull free as unable to unhitch wiring blocks. All clean behind there no corrosion so left well alone as had no idea without schematic what was what.
Hood rises on the switch, but needs manual pull down, no big deal will live with it for now unless somebody has other ideas.


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

If open small cover on parcel shelf and remove insulation with hood up can you hear/feel the relays on the pump click when you toggle the twitch? If only clicks on pressing up and no click when pressing down might be relay or the switch itself. I'm no expert but the roof problem drove me bananas. I think the Tyco relays and can be replaced easy enough. See photo below. One is up other is down. If roof is going up but not down unlikely it's the pump or a fuse.


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## Audi7707 (Aug 16, 2017)

[smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Can anyone post pics on how to remove the motor to me ([email protected]). I have tried several times from the boot but was unable to reach the bolts, Also I have remove all the panels behind the seat but also unable to reach it, really do not how to do it..I am in very bad mood"


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

You can get to the pump through the letterbox opening in the boot. There are a few fasteners to remove and then it pulls out. If you search on here there are a few posts on it.


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## Eric V. (Apr 28, 2012)

You remove the bolts from above small hole behind the passengersseat.
There is an opening in the shelf.
You remove the pump in the boot.

Eric V.


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## Audi7707 (Aug 16, 2017)

I did unscrewed one of the bolt from the boot but unable to reach another bolt where behind the driverseat side, the room is so small and the has no space for tool to get in.any idea or pics can show me how to reach it?


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## Eric V. (Apr 28, 2012)

Behind passengerside seat in the parcelshelf is a lid you can open and get to the bolts
You can only see this with roof closed.
Eric V.


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## TTrok (Jun 5, 2017)

My roof goes down with ease and the glass goes up and down .
BUT it won't go up no sound when the button is pressed no nothing just me cursing as I pull it up !
The car is in 4 rings at the moment and asked them to look at it .... told me they think it is needing a new unit something about it is the same unit that works central locking and windows as well as soft top up and down, then started mentioning rather large sums of money !! So told them to leave it I can live with it .
Any one got any suggestions please ? 
I know what my kids will say --- serves you right for buying a convertible mum .


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

If its going down and won't come back up hydraulically try swapping the two relays on the pump over. If it now won't go down but will come back up then you have a faulty relay.


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## TTrok (Jun 5, 2017)

black9146 said:


> If its going down and won't come back up hydraulically try swapping the two relays on the pump over. If it now won't go down but will come back up then you have a faulty relay.


Um ok may as well have been talking Dutch to me . I seem to have a house full of young men but none of them are any help when it comes to my car !!
So will defo need step by step females guide to mending her beloved TT or if that doesn't work beg and grovel . 
Thank you will stand and look at the car and see if there is anything obvious which looks like I can take apart shows it's self :lol:


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1529434


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1529618&start=30 Go to page 3


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## TTrok (Jun 5, 2017)

Thank you will give it a go 
Once I collect him along with his ever growing list of 
Things that apparently need doing .
Seems his previous owners badly neglected him !!


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

terje180 said:


> I tackled this small job myself today.It took me less than an hour to carry out.And best of all I turned on the ignition and my tired roof went down as usual..But up for a change too
> 
> Thanks for posting that helpful pictures and saving me a fortune from Aberdeen Audi garage!


Hey, I know it was a while ago, but do you have any pictures of doing this work?

I am about to do mine.


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

davegill79 said:


> Right. Finally got around to doing this myself. Big Thanks to El Greco (Tom) above who told me what to do. I've just taken a few photos and added some description so hopefully this will be some use to your folks too. It's really rather straight forward.
> 
> Firstly, behind the passenger seat hoop in the cavity where the roof goes, there is a compartment. Remove the cover to reveal the grey insulating material shown. Carefully take a Stanley knife or similar around the insulation that is about 10mm thick.
> 
> ...


Hi

Is there any chance of the photographs being available again?

Skip


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## SkipDriver (Jan 30, 2016)

This is a very handy video for removing the seats and getting into the back of the car.

I hope that following the instructions on here, I can reach the roof pump.


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## mackiecross (Sep 5, 2017)

This is going to sound "very blonde" of me ...... but is the roof operation on ALL roadsters electric?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

From what I have read all roadsters had electric hoods. I have seen some advertised as manual but I believe that they may have been electric and something has broken. The cost to fix is probably expensive so they just advertise it as manual ? Unless someone else knows different :?


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

In the UK, I think they were all electric, but perhaps not the 150 FWD model?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Droopsnoot, that's the model I have and mines electric. I had been looking at Beetle convertibles which I thought were all electric hoods but have since found out that the very base model is manual. Still would be good to know if there is a manual roof TT ?


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

I was about to point you to the Parkers web site which lists the varying specs available, but when it mentioned that some TT Roadsters have "rear electric windows" I figured it's probably not all that reliable.

I had the same query when I was thinking about an A4 cab - I think on those, electric hoods and heated seats and stuff we take for granted on the TT might not be there. But you'd easily tell if it was an electric hood described as manual because it failed, surely it would be as complex to remove the switch gear and so on, especially invisibly?

The other thing is the optional equipment list, if you have access to the service book or anywhere else it's printed:

3FN Canvas Convertible Top, Operated Electrically


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi, the ones that are advertised as " manual " never show you the switches for the roof/deflector  I still think that there was never a manual option, they were all electric ?


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