# 3 Door Disco



## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Today I have been given a towing vehicle by the inlaw in preparation for when the TT is a trailer queen!! 

MOT runs until Decemeber, but she does have a few advisories from last year that'll need attention pretty soon, including the dreaded "light corrosion" to both cills and an oil leak from one rear hub. Parts don't seem very expensive which is nice!!

The plan is to get her road worthy, tidy her up a bit (she's 21 years old so need a bit of care bless her) and then use her for towing as said but also maybe a bit of green laning!

Anyway...







So has anyone else owned one/currently owns one and has any advise, tips etc.?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I have a 1993 Discovery which I've had since it was 9 months old. I've done a lot of work on it.

The chassis is usually pretty good as far as rust goes and the aluminium body panels equally resistant. The weak point is the steel body frame which the MoT man cannot see and which has a nasty habit of dissolving.
Apart from the sills (and the attached body mounts), the rear floor, rear body cross member, front inner wings and areas around the seat belt mounting points are also suspect areas. Even the brackets welded to the axles can rust away. Luckily there are replacements available for all these. 
Your will have the later 300TDI engine which is quieter and slightly more powerful than my 200TDI. One weak point on yours is the "P" gasket on the water pump. 
All the mechanical bits are easy to work on and there are many after market parts suppliers; just beware the quality of some parts - get what you pay for etc.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Hi Brittan, thanks for the reply and Sounds like a lot of fun!!

I need to get my head under and look into these sills properly, I have seen a kit on eBay that you weld over the top which didn't seem to bad...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=131313480126&globalID=EBAY-GB






I had originally considered a lift kit, but having read a few threads regarding the various issues this causes on other parts, bushes etc. I think I'll just go with standard replacement shocks and springs as another advisory was misting on the shocks. Can you recommend a kit for this, maybe even a heavy duty kit as it'll be used for predominantly towing so will be under a decent load!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Hi Nick,

I bought two parts from Easy On Panels, the closing plate for the ends of the sills which goes in the rear wheel arch. It didn't fit anywhere near accurately and the metal was too thick.
I got everything else from http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/ not the cheapest but the parts are well made to OEM spec/sizes. That does mean that they don't fit over the remains of existing panels and you have to do the usual painstaking work to remove the old panels without destroying the adjacent ones. Good service from them too.

Do you know any history of the vehicle? If the rear floor has not been replaced I very much recommend that you fold the rear seats and remove the carpet and sound proofing. If it's dry you are very lucky and if the floor hasn't already been replaced it WILL need doing!

For your towing intentions do not fit raised suspension. Unless you fit castor corrected radius arms at the front, or the correction bushes, the steering becomes a bit twitchy and self centring is adversely affected.

Lots of choices for springs from the big on-line parts suppliers like:
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/
https://www.paddockspares.com/
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/

I used Terrarfirma http://www.terrafirma4x4.com/ springs at the refit earlier this year.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Wow that's a tidy looking vehicle for its age!!  looks like you've put a lot of effort in!

Thanks again, ive had a quick scan of all the links you sent and the parts available are fantastic!!! If only the TT had such a range, and we're so accessible!!

I've signed up on landyzone.co.uk and have already been given a heads up that the oil leak will most likely be a rear hub seal, so I now know what to investigate with regards to that! I'll get some decent pics of the sill and have a better look into what it is that's rusting!

Thanks also for the advice on the carpets, I'll get them up soon as well and see what horrors are waiting my beneathe!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Thanks, but it wasn't tidy this time last year. All those places I noted as weak points for rust - mine had them all plus several others. I have a whole set of horror pics! I did a lot of cutting welding grinding etc and then replaced the springs, dampers, brake discs/pads/calipers, every suspension bush and track rod end, every steering/wheel bearing and seal and all the prop shaft UJs. Fitted new turbo bearings and seals too.

There's good and not so good advice on landyzone but pretty easy to tell them apart.
Your hub oil leak could be the hub seal but the wheel bearings run in grease not oil - oil should not get into the wheel bearing area. The hub mounts to a stub shaft that is bolted to the axle tube. Inside the inner end of the stub shaft is a bronze bush for the half shaft and a seal that stops the diff oil getting into the hub. This seal may be the source of the leak. 
Does the oil smell like EP 80? If so that's from the diff. 
Once the hub is off it's only 6 bolts to remove the stub shaft.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Hoping to get over to the car at the weekend to have a deeper look into this issues.

Int he interim i've been looking into all the various parts, can't believe how cheap even the genuine parts are from paddockspares.com!! Seems stupid to reuse any parts when you can get them for pence, so if it is the Hub seal i'll change both the bearings and probably pads and discs along with new ancillaries too.

I was reading a good thread on replacing the boot floor today also, hopefully not required but if so, i'm confident we can manage that fairly easily enough!

With regards to the spring/shocks combo, i've been really struggling to find standard height springs and shocks in heavy duty format. I have found the following shocks which are Terrafirma as you recommended;

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/shock-absorber-front-terrafirma-terrain-tf116-p-5958.html
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/shock-absorber-rear-terrafirma-terrain-tf117-p-2058.html

and am thinking of combining them with the only HD standard height springs i can find, by Britpart;

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/britpart-standad-height-rear-springs-britpart-da4278-p-7970.html
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/britpart-standad-height-front-springs-britpart-da4277-p-766.html

Any thoughts on the above, or better options that you know of? (Apologies to interrogate you on the subject!) :lol:


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Hi Nick,

The hub and half shaft seals, bearings, discs etc is all pretty agricultural stuff and definitely worth replacing the wearing parts while it's all in bits. The normal setting for the wheel bearings is 0.004" end float but I find that gives too much 'rock' on the wheel, although I do have oversize tyres on mine. I put the wheel on and just set the bearing float so that there's just perceptible 'rock' on the wheel.

The boot floor is again basic stuff with the grinder and welder. A spot weld drill is useful. If the floor is gone (hope I'm wrong) there are 4 bearers underneath which will also be rusted and are worth replacing at the same time - 2 flat ones and 2 U sections ones. I prefer to remove the fuel tank for this job to eliminate the possibility of damaging it! While you have access it's worth checking the stub pipes on the fuel pick up/level float unit as these also rust so I clean and paint them.

I've never towed another vehicle with the Discovery, just my box trailer, so I've never gone looking for heavy duty springs for it. I expect I'd only come up with the same ones that you have. 
When I did off-road racing I used an ex RAF air portable Land Rover as a tow vehicle. I fitted a V8 engine, comfy seats and power steering etc and it towed rather well. On that one I used Monroe Air Max shock absorbers on the rear - you can adjust the air assist pressure in them to reduce rear end squat due to draw bar load on the tow hook. I'm not sure if they are still available and for the Discovery but maybe worth a look. The point of them is that you can use standard springs and avoid the hard suspension when using the Discovery without a trailer on the back. If you only intend to use the Discovery for towing then the springs will likely be the cheaper and simpler route. 





Interrogation is OK, just don't shine bright lights in my eyes. :lol:


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Well i finally had a chance to really investigate the Disco today and found Many horrors, but none that worry me too much!

First up the Cills...

One side has some sort of cover, the other...doesn't [smiley=bigcry.gif]





Underneath the sills have seen better days it has to be said...











Not sure on the best course of action for these (Does being a 3dr make this harder as the cill seems to go along way under the rear quarter panel!?) I'm also stumped as to what people class as the inner and outer cill, it all looked like one piece to me!

Investigated the boot floor also... yep, that's knackered, so i'll be working on that!

Looked into the leak at the rear hub, not sure but think this is grease rather then oil?





Solution for this then will be to rebuild with new parts from the stub axle out i suppose? Best do both sides while i there, is the front assembly worth doing to?

Rear diff...

What the Hell is this...



Front Diff...

What happened to this?



Also the prop shaft connection looks like its cracked?!

Steering Box...

MOT advisory on slight leak, this looks more then slight, any common issues/solutions?



The drivers side of the engine is looking very oily... i was thinking rocker cover gasket?





Thanks for all your help in advance!! Also apologies that i'm very green to all this, i'm used to working on a slightly less corroded TT... shouldn't take too long to get used to the disco though...hopefully!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> Well i finally had a chance to really investigate the Disco today and found Many horrors, but none that worry me too much!
> 
> First up the Cills...
> 
> ...


Hi Nick,
That's a lot of problems, but much as expected given the age and what's probably been benign neglect.

The plastic sill cover is only cosmetic. New may be available or one from a breaker. They are secured to those holes in the sill below the door seal with expanding plastic rivets, the sort you push in the centre pin to expand. Punch the pin out to release them.

Yep, the sills are quite bad and you'll probably find more rust when you take it apart. I replaced mine completely using YRM metal solutions parts but as you mentioned before, there are 'cover' sills available which are quicker/easier to fit. The inner sill is upsidedown L shaped and is just the inner vertical section. The short 'foot' of the L is spot welded to the floor. The bottom of the inner sill forms half of the seam that sticks down from the inner edge of the sill box section. Hope that makes sense.

Your pic 3 shows the shape of the outer sill with the 'cut triangle' shaped brace that attaches to the floor. The inner sill doesn't extend as far forward as the outer sill. The brace looks like it needs replacing and there's another smaller piece behind it which closes off the sill box section. The body mount which is welded to the inner sill may also need replacing. You know how these job grow!

As you may expect taking it all apart is the hard part. Lots of spot weld to drill out or grind out and the A and B pillars are welded to the outside of the outer sill.

It's worth lifting the carpets too. The front brace may have rusted through the floor and there may be similar rust in the floor around and behind the B pillar and the seat belt mounting points.

Yes, the sill extends fully under the quarter panel. The proper way to get access is to remove the entire quarter panel which needs, rmv windows, trim panels, lights etc, rmv. The panel is then bolted from the inside and also glued. I reckoned that getting the panel off in a state that would allow re-use was unlikely so I just cut off the bottom section with a thin slitting disc.

That's no surprise on the rear floor; average life of that bit is about 10 years.

Here's mine: The floor forms the top of the sill box section and here part of it is gone. The vertical part of the body frame is gone and the mottled shiny bit is the inside of the outer aluminium panel.


A bit of a mess.


The line of holes extending forward of the seat belt angled box is where the inner sill is spot welded to the floor. The plate with the welded nut fits under the floor just to its left for the seat belt securing point. I made a new larger one!


Rotten bits removed and new body mount temp fitted for marking to inner sill. I left half of the outer sill in place until the inner sill was fitted; the idea being to prevent the floor going too floppy.


All done. I made up some pieces to close the end of the sill box section and repair the wheelarch. I also made up a new section for the bottom of the B post - but you can buy ready made repair sections. 


Shows where I cut the outer panel and re-fixed it with pop rivets with a backing strip.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> Looked into the leak at the rear hub, not sure but think this is grease rather then oil?
> 
> 
> 
> Solution for this then will be to rebuild with new parts from the stub axle out i suppose? Best do both sides while i there, is the front assembly worth doing to?


If it's grease, that's good news as it means the leak is on the hub seal, so no need to remove the stub axle to get at the seal inside it - unless you really want to.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> Rear diff...
> 
> What the Hell is this...
> 
> ...


Both pics are of the rear diff!

The Hell that is the diff filler/level plug with a very slight leak. Clean out the 0.5" square drive hole in the plug, and normal socket bar/ratchet fits straight in. There's no seal on the taper plug. Never had a problem with them but PTFE tape would work if necessary. 
At least the diff pan looks OK. The rear ones rust through and then leak. The front ones are usually OK, protected by the leak from the steering box and engine!! Luckily, a replacement is available https://www.steveparkers.com/product/sp ... -diff-pan/ I did mine several years ago.

The rubber donut looks knackered but it's a simple bolt job to replace. There's a very slight leak on the diff pinion oil seal but probably not worth bothering with.
If you do want to fix it: drain diff oil, remove prop shaft, mark position of big nut inside diff input flange, remove nut and flange, lever out old seal & fit new one, replace input flange, do up nut to its original position. The last bit is important as there's a crush spacer behind the input flange and the torque/position on the nut controls the pre-load on the pinion bearing. Add oil, replace prop shaft.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> Steering Box...
> 
> MOT advisory on slight leak, this looks more then slight, any common issues/solutions?


If it's not actually dripping it's slight, but check the oil reservoir! That's been leaking a long time and it's a common problem. 
The drop arm shaft seal can be replaced in situ but is not always successful when the shaft is worn where the seal bears. Apart from that removing the drop arm is often nigh on impossible with conventional tools and pullers. 
Google 'discovery drop arm puller' for pics of substantial pullers that people have made. Check the one by Bushwaka.

Other than that the solution is a recon power steering box - most now come with the drop arm fitted but make sure you get the later drop arm; on the earlier one the track rod end was part of the drop arm. Or simply live with the leak until it gets worse or fails the MoT.

Someone has probably done some off-roading with it as they've fitted a bolt on protector for the front diff. That type do manage to collect mud in behind the protector and keep it nice and moist right up against the diff pan which then rusts despite any oil leaks.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> The drivers side of the engine is looking very oily... i was thinking rocker cover gasket?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help in advance!! Also apologies that i'm very green to all this, i'm used to working on a slightly less corroded TT... shouldn't take too long to get used to the disco though...hopefully!


Yeah, rocker cover gasket - or there's an O seal where the black plastic breather unit fits in. 
It really needs a good clean with Gunk, pressure washer etc before the exact source of the leak can be identified. 
Take off the sound deadening cover, it's only held in place by the filler cap.

You'll soon get used to the Discovery - and you'll love to hate it! 8)


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

The rear body cross member is well hidden, being under a plastic cover. It's worth giving it a check.
It includes the two rear body mounts which had 'sagged' on mine and so the door scraped the plastic cover on opening.

Mine looked like this with the bottom of both sides of the rear door frame also rusted away; the left was simply all fresh air!


Rotten bits removed.


All done. Lots of work to make all the curved parts to repair the bottom ends of the door frame sides.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

wowzers!!!!

Thanks again massively for all your help and info!! You've given me more then anyone on my thread on Landyzone which currently has no replies!! (Is there a more "active" forum I could try?)

Plenty to consider but I'm happy I know what I'm aiming towards now, better get searching for the sills and boot floors as this seems priority! Already a spoken with the inlaw about painting the chassis and any parts that haven't yet succumbed to the rust with something to maintain it... Have you got any recommendations?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I hope some of what I've posted is useful and I will be interested to see how you get on with the repairs and if you have any other questions etc, just ask.

There's loads of Land Rover and/or Discovery forums but I can't say which, if any, is suitably active as I'm on none of them. I have looked before but didn't find one where the level of technical and practical knowledge was at a useful level.

Good idea to farm out the chassis painting job! Generally the Disco 1 chassis survives much better than the body frame and is likely to be sound with some surface rust. Cleaning it up with your preferred wire brush etc is essential and there's any number of paints to choose from. Many good paints and primers have gone from the market or become less effective because of the drive to reduce VOCs :x

I've tried:
*POR 15: * expensive and some of mine peeled off. Probably due to inadequate prep or wrong temperature and/or humidity.

*Hammerite: *easy to apply, use throw-away brushes as the thinners is silly expensive but it's a bit brittle and so prone to stone chips.

*Chassis Black:* standard paint from local car paint supplier. easy, cheap, reasonably effective.

Don't forget to paint the top of the rear half of the chassis while you have the boot floor out.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Well i had half a day to myself over the weekend so decided to get to work on cleaning up the engine bay a bit to locate any issues. It's looking a little better...





It was a state under there, but hopefully we'll be able to locate the source of any leaks now!

I also found a pipe that i have no idea what it's for and isn't currently connected to anything...



Any ideas??

I also found a split in one of the injector return pipes between the metal injector pipework, so this will need replacement.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

This Weekend we are hoping to strip out the interior to investigate the rust further also, before ordering some replacement panels where needed!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

At least you can see what's what now.

The return pipe looks like it was rubbing on the noise reduction cover.

The pipe is the vent from one of the axle tubes. Sorry, I can't tell which one!
There should be a pair of them and they normally just stand as high as possible against the bulkhead.

The other end of the tubes should be connected via a banjo bolt to the top of each axle tube, left side.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Yeah certainly much easier to see what's happening now! I'm going to get a length of 8mm nylon pipe to replace them all, may as well!

That's great help thanks, I'll trace them back now that I know what I'm looking for, will it just want re-fixing as high up as possible?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

The vent pipes probably have a clip lower down so just poking them up behind the heater hoses will do.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Got onto the boot floor this weekend, I'll let the pics do the talking...





So while that's out we're going to treat and paint all the metal work and do a few little jobs that will be made easier with the access... Rear suspension, union joint etc. then we have a little plan for the new boot floor, some will disapprove I'm sure!

Last weekend I also had my first welding lesson...





Apparently that's not too bad for a first effort and also was Arc welding which is supposed to be harder then Mig which I'd imagine is what we will be using for the Disco.... A long way before I'm going to be welding the car, but a start anyway! :lol:


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Well that's reassuringly exactly as expected. 

I'll be interested to see your plans for the boot floor and then I'll oblige by disapproving :lol: 
I'll guess that it doesn't involve using as-pattern replacement parts.

Is that a needle gun you've been using to clean up the RH side? I have one or two air tools myself and a hard pipe air system in the garage.

That's a good start on welding, especially MMA. MIG is much easier to use on thin panels; and none of that nasty slag chipping either.

Not sure what you mean by "union joint" - maybe A-frame ball joint? 
I usually remove the ball joint complete with the part it fits into; just two long bolts to separate it from the A-frame sides. Much easier to remove/replace the ball joint on the bench.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That was my thoughts too, i could have chosen a generic google picture of discovery boot floor rust! :lol:

Nope, doesn't look like we'll be using the Pattern boot floor, we may have something more solid in mind!

That's actually a 3/8"s air ratchet, i can't believe I've never used one before, makes removing various brackets etc. so much quicker!! The in-law has all sorts of air tools, like Aladdin's cave, so hopefully he'll find some others that'll help me. 

I've heard MIG is easier so I'm looking forward to getting started on that, he's just picked up a new MIG welder so we will have a play with that sometime soon and work on some thinner metal. From what I've seen replacement panels are 1.2mm mild steel so care will be required.

Sorry my mistake, i meant the rubber coupling for the prop-shaft, as i noticed the access without the floor in place is fantastic and noted before that the old one has perished quite badly! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Ah yes. I should have enlarged the pic to see it's a ratchet and the area behind it looked shiny - but it's not!
It's an odd shape for a needle gun too.

Yes, 1.2mm is right. I bought a couple of sheets of it to make up the patch parts. Air shears were ace for slicing it up.

I bought one of those welding masks that darken on striking an arc. Very useful and makes things just that little bit easier. 
If you are working outside then one big problem with MIG is losing the shield gas when it's windy!! You can't make good welds in that circumstance unless you shield the weld area from the wind; or wait for better weather.

You could clean out the fuel sedimenter too while you have the good access. It's rarely serviced and with access from above you won't have the joy of an arm full of diesel.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

I can confirm they are a worthwhile investment!! I tried an old school style one to get an idea of what it's like and it's horrible!! :lol: 









RE: the sedimenter. The inlaw was talking about removing it entirely, would this be a good or bad idea? I'm not sure of the function of it, there's a fuel filter further on too isn't there?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I didn't get mine from a horror film props department though . . . . :lol:

Yes, normal canister type fuel filter on the bulkhead by the clutch master cylinder. 
The sedimenter is meant for "basic" filtration and water removal, hence the little plastic drain plug which I wouldn't dare use; it's sure to break off.
Yes, you could remove but I see no real advantage in doing so apart from 'something less to go wrong'. Maybe remove it if/when it goes wrong?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Bought some stupidly big wheels, hell gotta have some fun! :lol: 









Possibly had a change of plan and found a different tow vehicle... that could mean this would be off road only!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Yes to fun!
Difficult to see what size tyres you have but that looks around 33" OD and around the same OD as I use - 265/75 16.

Mine is combined with 2" raised suspension and caster correction front radius arms.

The larger tyres means it "needs spacers" (as per common Mk1 comment) to maintain steering lock. I run 25mm ones all round. Some trimming of the body work will also be required and I had to shorten the ends of the sills and cut back the end of the front bumper.

Just the domino effect of modding.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Spot on, 265/75/r16!

So you could almost say a 2" lift would be recommended?! :wink: (Helps justify to the powers that be!)

I've watched a couple of videos for trimming the rear arch and basically chopping the bottom half of the front bumper off entirely, so hopefully shouldn't be an issue!

Did you have to get extended wheel studs to allow fitment of spacers?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Just had a look, didn't realise these are bolt-ons. Problem solved!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Started work on rubbing down the chassis etc. Ready for painting. Need to get her up onto axel stands to give a bit more access, but it's looking a tad cleaner anyway...





I'm really enjoying working on the disco, such a different beast to the TT and a different set of skills required, but just as fun!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

That's a good start; not a particularly pleasant job but looking better already. 

I'll be intrigued to see what you do for the floor replacement.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Getting there, it looks a lot cleaner in person! Will get the side panels out next as this should make a big difference!

How big a job is it to drop the tank? Thinking it may be worthwhile to really get at the chassis?

Unfortunately the fun plan for the floor has been shelved as I made a huge error on the cost for chequer plate! :lol: Back to a standard floor, but I did manage to get the side pieces fabbed up for free, so I'm happy about that!!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Ah yes, I've used chequer plate for a couple of other projects, definitely not the cheap option!

When you remove the floor side panels the wheel arch and the vertical side panel become very floppy. I did mine one at a time, taking measurements of the wheel arch position and floor width etc first to make sure everything went back in the right place.

Taking the tank out is a good idea. Good chassis access, a view of the front face of the rear body cross member and no chance of damaging it when doing the floor.

The tank is easy, hopefully it's nearly empty. There's just the top and bottom straps and two bolts on a bracket at the front of the tank. 
Take care to use two spanners when undoing the supply & return pipes at the sender unit. An overnight soak with easing fluid is worthwhile - very easy to twist or break the stub pipes.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Minor bit of progress over the weekend, fuel tank is now dropped, so next time out i can really start the process of cleaning up the chassis and prepping for painting...



Had a bit of a nightmare with trying to remove the tow bar, the first bolt sheared straight off [smiley=bigcry.gif] I then realised it would be much easier to undo the anti-roll bar to drop the tank and with a little wiggle it came out easily enough! Not sure what i'll have to do with the sheared off bolt now, what a pain, didn't need to do that


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

You obviously found the brackets/bolts at the rear of the tank rather than at the front as I said.  

Much better access now and wise to leave the tank out until the floor repairs are complete.
I forgot the ARB, mine doesn't have them. If you're going to use it for playing rather than towing leave the ARBs off.

Where is the sheared bolt?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

brittan said:


> You obviously found the brackets/bolts at the rear of the tank rather than at the front as I said.
> 
> Much better access now and wise to leave the tank out until the floor repairs are complete.
> I forgot the ARB, mine doesn't have them. If you're going to use it for playing rather than towing leave the ARBs off.
> ...


That's something to consider, looking more and more like a play toy only so could be a plan to leave it off. That being said, it's not actually that hard to remove/replace as and when IF needs be!

The Sheared bolt is on the right hand side of the chassis, the one nearest the front of the vehicle. It had a towing eye then bolted right through the chassis to a nut the other side, looks like it'll be a PITA to remove! :lol:


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

NickG said:


> The Sheared bolt is on the right hand side of the chassis, the one nearest the front of the vehicle. It had a towing eye then bolted right through the chassis to a nut the other side, looks like it'll be a PITA to remove! :lol:


If the 'towing eye' is pear shaped overall it's only for strapping the vehicle down; eg on a transporter. It's nowhere near strong enough for towing, etc.

There's probably a plate or tube for the bolt to stop the chassis leg collapsing so the bolt may be rusted to that. 
Penetrating oil soak and pin punch may work? PITA, definitely.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That sounds like the one! Ill give that a try first, i suppose a bit of heat might work next if that doesnt work. Failing that its a big drill and a lot of drill bits i suppose! :evil:


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