# Factory fitted BOSE, speakers can't take the bass?



## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

The BOSE amp in my car has just been repaired due to water damage, it was damaged when I bought the car so this is the first time I've been able to listen to the stereo with the amp installed and working.

I've noticed it doesn't take much bass at all to overwhelm the speakers, hard to explain but when a speaker is given too much bass it makes that unmistakable sound.

I've tried fading and balancing the sound just to see if any one speaker is worse but I can't really pinpoint it so I assume they all sound a bit dodgy when any bass is applied. Currently all the equaliser settings are set at the default (12o'clock) position and if I turn the bass up much more than that it does not sound that great at all.

I currently have some 320kbps mp3's on the SD card so I'll try some proper CD's over the next few days as well.

A mate of mines Bang an Olufsen in his similar age A5 sounds much much better and handles bass brilliantly, I guess that's because he has a factory sub in there somewhere and as far as I can see the TTS does not have a sub.

Can an aftermarket sub be added to the factory setup?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Rip said:


> I've noticed it doesn't take much bass at all to overwhelm the speakers, hard to explain but when a speaker is given too much bass it makes that unmistakable sound.
> ---snip---
> I guess that's because he has a factory sub in there somewhere and as far as I can see the TTS does not have a sub.
> ---snip---
> Can an aftermarket sub be added to the factory setup?


If your TTS has a factory BOSE system installed, there will be an enclosed 13cm woofer for the bass frequencies. It is adequate for general listening but won't reproduce extremely low notes or handle stupid-loud volumes without distorting.

If you are hearing distortion at 'reasonable' levels then there is a good chance that your speaker(s) are damaged.

There are several threads on the forum describing how to add a subwoofer.

See item #7:


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

FNChaos said:


> Rip said:
> 
> 
> > I've noticed it doesn't take much bass at all to overwhelm the speakers, hard to explain but when a speaker is given too much bass it makes that unmistakable sound.
> ...


Hmm, I'm pretty sure I don't have a sub as I've had most of the interior out of the boot area. Where exactly is item 7 fitted?


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Never mind, I see it's in the side panel next to the rear seat. I'll have a listen closely and see if it's distorting for any reason.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Never mind, I see it's in the side panel next to the rear seat. I'll have a listen closely and see if it's distorting for any reason. Thanks for that image.

I bet it's a right ball ache to get to.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Just recently had my amp fixed and drivers door speakers sorted and I think my Bose set up sounds amazing for a factory fitted system, really good bass.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

legend_of_chaos said:


> Just recently had my amp fixed and drivers door speakers sorted and I think my Bose set up sounds amazing for a factory fitted system, really good bass.


I have a suspicion that it might be the music I just happened to have in the car when I got the amp fixed which was 90's East Coast Hip Hop mainly which I guess had some pretty dirty baselines that almost sound distorted on the best of systems. I'll test with some different music. But I've seen that it's poissble to add a sub and amp to work alongside the BOSE set up so if really like to do that as well. Apparently the easiest way is to use a Vibe Delta Box which basically taps into one of the speakers feeds and create s RCA outputs to run an aftermarket sub and amp. I need to trawl the forums though for exact info on how to do that though.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Before the BOSE amp being replaced, did both of you completely loose all sound from the stereo to the speakers?


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Barr_end said:


> Before the BOSE amp being replaced, did both of you completely loose all sound from the stereo to the speakers?


I lost sound to the rear. It depends which chips on the amp have corroded so symptoms can be sound loss from any or all speakers.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Rip said:


> I bet it's a right ball ache to get to.


Not really. I took the trim out in about 10 mins and fitted a Bose sub in there to use, just in case I ever need to remove the 10" sub I have in the boot for more space. Don't wan't to go losing any base now do I!


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

barry_m2 said:


> Rip said:
> 
> 
> > I bet it's a right ball ache to get to.
> ...


I'll have a look when I get a minute. I'm keen to figure out how to wire in another sub in the boot to work alongside the existing BOSE kit. That way I can turn the bass down a bit on my head unit so I'm not pushing the BOSE kit to the limit and use a separate amp and sub in the boot for some nice punchy base.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Rip said:


> I'll have a look when I get a minute. I'm keen to figure out how to wire in another sub in the boot to work alongside the existing BOSE kit. That way I can turn the bass down a bit on my head unit so I'm not pushing the BOSE kit to the limit and use a separate amp and sub in the boot for some nice punchy base.


What head unit do you have?


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

barry_m2 said:


> Rip said:
> 
> 
> > I'll have a look when I get a minute. I'm keen to figure out how to wire in another sub in the boot to work alongside the existing BOSE kit. That way I can turn the bass down a bit on my head unit so I'm not pushing the BOSE kit to the limit and use a separate amp and sub in the boot for some nice punchy base.
> ...


The standard Audi RNSE, apparently it can be done with a Vibe Delta Box tapped in to one of the speaker wires somewhere between the head unit and the BOSE amp.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Rip said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > Rip said:
> ...


Ok, you can do what I done....

The RNSE has front left & right speaker outs that are not used. Connect a pair of speakers wires to them and run them to the boot to an amp.
You'll need an amp that has high-level inputs to connect them to. I used a Pioneer GM-A3602 as its small, has the high-level inputs and also doesn't require a remote lead to turn on and off. It turns on when it detects a signal, and off when it doesn't, can be bridged to a single channel and has a low pass filter switch.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Sweet, do you know which connections I need to come off of on the back of the RNSE? And is there some kind of plug I can use to make things easier?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Rip said:


> Sweet, do you know which connections I need to come off of on the back of the RNSE? And is there some kind of plug I can use to make things easier?


The pins are in block A. 
2 = Right Front +
3 = Left Front +
6 = Right Front -
7 = Left Front -

On mine, block A doesn't have anything in it so I just used a couple of spade connectors straight onto the pins.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

barry_m2 said:


> Rip said:
> 
> 
> > Sweet, do you know which connections I need to come off of on the back of the RNSE? And is there some kind of plug I can use to make things easier?
> ...


Legend.

So I could just pick one of the front pairs then so like pins #2 & #3 and run that to the high level input on the amp?

Then I assume wire the amp direct to the battery for power? (it won't slowly drain battery?)

Then just connect the sub and that's it?

Will I need any plugs/connectors to attach to the amps input?

Forgive the questions as I've not installed any aftermarket audio since I put 2x 12" Kenwoods and a 1200w amp in a Vauxhall Nova SR a long time ago! lol


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Am I on the right track? Also is it right that a non ported 10" would be the best option for more punch and less boom?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

You can also splice into the line-in wires into the BOSE amp. I actually found the TT to be a very easy car to install into due to the amp and battery being in the boot and lots of earthing points. Lots of awkward leaning into the boot though


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> You can also splice into the line-in wires into the BOSE amp. I actually found the TT to be a very easy car to install into due to the amp and battery being in the boot and lots of earthing points. Lots of awkward leaning into the boot though


The issue with splicing into existing speakers that are already being used is you increase the load on them, so you'll need to ensure they can handle the correct Ohms load.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

MT-V6 said:


> You can also splice into the line-in wires into the BOSE amp. I actually found the TT to be a very easy car to install into due to the amp and battery being in the boot and lots of earthing points. Lots of awkward leaning into the boot though


Oh I have plenty of experience inside the TT boot, it seems like I've spent more time in there lately than I have in my bed (fixing leaks).

I think I'd rather go through the effort of running wires back from the head unit so I don't mess up the existing wiring unnecessarily.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > You can also splice into the line-in wires into the BOSE amp. I actually found the TT to be a very easy car to install into due to the amp and battery being in the boot and lots of earthing points. Lots of awkward leaning into the boot though
> ...


True, although I spliced into the line in to the Bose, so those wires are basically just going to 2 amps now so I don't think it will be an issue. Agreed if splicing into speaker wires though

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Rip said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > You can also splice into the line-in wires into the BOSE amp. I actually found the TT to be a very easy car to install into due to the amp and battery being in the boot and lots of earthing points. Lots of awkward leaning into the boot though
> ...


Fair enough. I do keep meaning to add details of mine with a few photos

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> True, although I spliced into the line in to the Bose, so those wires are basically just going to 2 amps now so I don't think it will be an issue. Agreed if splicing into speaker wires though


So you've effectively increased the load on all your speakers by doing that, unless the signal from the head unit to the Bose amp is a low level input?.. in which case, you haven't!


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## ChasingCrows (Sep 30, 2017)

Does this help at all ?

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/ ... tId=673582


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

ChasingCrows said:


> Does this help at all ?
> 
> https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/ ... tId=673582


Nice guide. Although I personally feel running lines from the head unit would be easier and neater for me to do unless there are reasons against that method?


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## ChasingCrows (Sep 30, 2017)

Rip said:


> ChasingCrows said:
> 
> 
> > Does this help at all ?
> ...


I would do the same, no pont in cutting into looms when it can be avoided with a little more work.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> So you've effectively increased the load on all your speakers by doing that, unless the signal from the head unit to the Bose amp is a low level input?.. in which case, you haven't!


I would assume it is only pre-amped from the HU to the Bose input?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Rip said:


> ChasingCrows said:
> 
> 
> > Does this help at all ?
> ...


I used the same method as that guide. Here are a few pics:

Preparing the phono:









Remote wire spliced:









Audio wire spliced:









Add wires spliced and finished:









You don't need to cut the wires, just slice off the insulation carefully then solder. This means you can't use heatshirink so I used electrical tape, then cloth loom tape around all the wires. There is loads of space behind the boot trim to tuck away the wires, and they can emerge between the false floor and the rear seats. I haven't got a photo of the final result but it is very neat, and if you use a detachable connector to the sub it can easily be removed when the full boot is needed.

Info about the wires to splice (the guide doesn't give pins for reference):
Positive, permanent live > Battery positive (with inline fuse)
Earth > Boot earth point
Remote wire > Bose amp 32-pin connector, pin 29 (green/yellow)
Line in left (+) > Bose amp 18-pin connector, pin 3 (blue)
Line in left (-) > Bose amp 18-pin connector, pin 4 (brown)
Line in right (+) > Bose amp 18-pin connector, pin 11 (yellow)
Line in right (-) > Bose amp 18-pin connector, pin 12 (brown)

How to wire phono:


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Help with shopping list then...

*Sub and Amp: * I'd like to get something like this, but can't find it anywhere in the UK for some reason?: https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/ ... ifications This package comes from Pioneer with I assume the correct sized enclosure for that particular sub. If I buy the amp and sub separately then I somehow need to also buy the correct size enclosure from somewhere.

Also I'm wondering if a sealed 10" version of this sub would be better as I don't want lots of boom, just a little more low down punch? But i can't actually find a similar 10" Pioneer sub supplied in the correct sealed enclosure anywhere right now. I think (not 100% sure) this is a 10" version of the set but it's only showing up as being available in Russia?! https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products ... ifications

*Speaker wire:* I need some wire to run from the HU back to the amp but not sure exactly what I need?

*4-pin High level input plug:* I assume I'll need a plug like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Pin-Speake ... SwZ1BXd~OY So I'll hunt around for one for sale in the UK.

Quick question about that, should I be running 4 wires from the HU to the high level input or just 2? I assume all 4 would be better so I'd be getting bass signals from both the left and right channels and also that will allow me to bridge the sub to the negative from the right speaker and the positive from the left speaker?

*Ground wire:* Again, not sure exactly what wire I need for this and where I should ground it to in the boot of the car? This does not just go on the Negative terminal of the battery right?

*Positive battery wire:* Again not sure what wire I'll need for this, something with a fuse?

*Remote wire (System control):* Shouldn't need one of these as the amp so say has auto power on correct?

A quick question about set up then, so:



Lower bass setting on HU to where the factory BOSE speakers are happy with no distortion
2 or 4 wires from HU to high level input on amp (via spade connectors at HU end and high level plug at amp end)
Amp power wire to positive on car battery with in line fuse
No remote/system control
Bridge right channel negative and left channel positive to sub
Switch LPF to 'ON'
Tweak the gain to where it sounds about right

Images for reference:


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

For the power this kind of thing http://www.halfords.com/technology/car- ... wiring-kit but can get cheaper elsewhere. The thick red is power to battery positive with inline fuse, the black or sometimes brown goes to an earth point (there is one each rear corner or boot, easy to see with boot foam removed)


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