# Battery Top Fuse Box Melting



## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Had to swap my expansion tank as I'd been losing coolant via the small top hose bit being snapped, while I was under the bonnet I noticed that the fuse box was a bit "wibbly" looking, opened it up and it was a melted corroded mess, so I've got a replacement on the way, but is it as simple as swapping them over and making sure the ends are all greased up?

Hoping its not a sign of something a bit more terminal and rather just a case of corrosion causing issues which cause heat which, well, you know how plastic and heat go together...


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, It's just poor connections usually due to damp. Poor connection with high current cause heat.
The 3 green ones cause the most problem. Clean up all the connections before replacement.
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Yeah, that's what I was thinking chap, just hoping that it wasn't a common sign for something else about to go pop...

My mileage has dropped drastically this year with the new job so hopefully, I won't be driving far enough for it to burst into flames and I can also start knocking jobs off of the to-do list..


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## John949 (Apr 12, 2017)

Personally I wouldn't grease them and definitely not before you assemble the connections - grease isn't a good conductor.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

John949 said:


> Personally I wouldn't grease them and definitely not before you assemble the connections - grease isn't a good conductor.


Have a read up on contact greases & lubricants.

Electrolube EML & SGB are my usual "go to" products for that.

https://electrolube.com/products/contact-lubricants/


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Whatever works, as long as it looks better than the melted mess that I have currently (not sure if that pun was intended or not tbh).


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Trig said:


> Whatever works, as long as it looks better than the melted mess that I have currently (not sure if that pun was intended or not tbh).


The corrosion on the contacts starts because they are assembled dry, so after a few years it starts.

The main alternator connection to the fuse box is another common one to melt and there is a lot of current going through that.

When I fitted a new fusebox, I took it apart and applied contact grease to all the contact surfaces before reassembling and fitting it.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

David C said:


> When I fitted a new fusebox, I took it apart and applied contact grease to all the contact surfaces before reassembling and fitting it.


Yeah that was pretty much my thought process, strip it, clean it, grease it, fit it, realise I've done something wrong, come back on here, someone points out stupid mistake, I go back out, fix it, everyone has a good laugh


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So, about 4 months later here we are with a fuse box that's started to go crispy again.

I have also noticed that my fans will start up when I start the ignition and run for 10 minutes after ignition is off..

Any other wiring issues I should be looking for?

I put a new battery in about 5 weeks ago and it failed to start the car this morning so thinking something else is at fault here..


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Trig said:


> So, about 4 months later here we are with a fuse box that's started to go crispy again.


Was that a new fusebox?


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Yup, new box, I'll see about swapping cables as it appears to be the main black one coming in on the left that's causing the issue as that's where the box is melting..


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

With engine on, turn on as many electrical consumers as you can (headlights+main beam, both heated seats, aircon to LO, radio etc) and touch the wires (big black one + red ones) coming out of the fuse box. Are they warm, or very hot (or crispy :roll: ) to the touch?


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So, did the aircon 20 thing today and I've got low 13's from the alternator, so, I'm going to short term at least, solder the end of the cable that connects to the terminal in the battery top fuse box, long term I'm going to get a new cable/harness and just swap it out, its a 16-year-old car and the cable has clearly seen better days so at this point its not going to make things worse....

Does anyone have the part number or a link for one I can buy?


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

If you want to take a gamble on a 2nd hand item there's many on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1- ... 890.l49292


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So cleaned up the end of the connector today and by the time it was done it had gotten dark and I noticed as the car was running you could see individual wires on the alternator wire on the top of the box glowing, I peeled back a bit of the insulation and the cables borked, so it's deffo a replace job even though I was getting better results than before I cleaned the connectors off.

Took the car out for a bit of a spin to the shop, fired straight back up when I got back in it, got about 5 minutes down the road and the 20c A/C alternator reading dropped to 10.x then the battery light on the dash came on, dash needles went to 0 and I lost throttle control, fortunately, stopped just around the corner from a mates house, nicked the battery off of it his car, got mine home and then took his battery back..


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Read the thread on battery voltage in my signature, obviously get the alternator cable fixed and do proper voltage measurements both on battery and on alternator.

Use a charged battery for starters.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Was your post that told me about the 20c/AC trick, didn't know that one, also where the idea to solder stuff came from


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Trig said:


> Was your post that told me about the 20c/AC trick, didn't know that one, also where the idea to solder stuff came from


Well, electrical connectors get loose and as a result theres less surface connection between connector and cable, usual result is arcing, heat and finally fire :roll: That's why fusebox melts.

Ideally you'd want to clean the wire with acid and recrimp a new connector as soldering is not ideal where there's movement (=cars).

Had the same thing happen on my house with aircon unit, big thick 220V cable had come loose in the circuit breaker and the whole thing was blackened with smoke. Twice, on 2 different aircons.

Usually it happens with high amperage connections.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Anyone with the EPC confirm this is the right part number?

1J0971349GN


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Looks correct for TT with A/Con.. Part 1 on diagram
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... 71-972000/
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Useful website cheers Hoggy
8)


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

This is a really helpful thread. Thanks for all the advice and conversations.

I'm thinking of replacing just the black #5 and red #4 cables. My #5 is hot as a pistol even after cleaning/sanding and tightening connections at the fuse box. New fuse box too.

Does anyone know how log these two cables are?

I'm thinking of replacing these two with marine tinned copper cables and would really like to be able to order replacements before taking everything apart.

I'm also really interesting in hearing that the earth (ground in US) line could be the culprit. Solder the #5 and #4 and make sure the earth lines are cleaned and connecting properly?

Advice greatly appreciated!

Russell

PS - I've been talking about a/c fans, fusebox, and cables in this thread:
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1838513

I've replaced the battery top fusebox twice now. And would like to stop the melting.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

I've ordered a new cable, I was thinking of making one but just don't have the time at the mo, I'll update once I've got the cable and what I do to it before I fit it, if anything.


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Trig said:


> I've ordered a new cable, I was thinking of making one but just don't have the time at the mo, I'll update once I've got the cable and what I do to it before I fit it, if anything.


Thanks Trig. Look forward to hearing what you do.

I'm still trying to decide which way to go. Replacements are not crazy money. Looks like they can be had for 60-ish USD here in the States. But if it's just going to repeat, well I'm kinda thinking a good marine tinned copper cable might be the better way to go. Heavier gauge, solder the joint, and maybe it won't happen again. As long as I own the car anyway.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Well my cables arrived, the main section is fine, some very light corrosion on the ends but no biggy, it does, however, have some chaffing on one of the wires, its the 2 pin section one wires gone through the black and into the insulation and you can just see the metal, the other is all the way through the black and the insulation and there are a few broken strands..

The seller said he didn't notice it and that he would send me some tape to fix it, needless to say, I declined his offer and will most likely take it into work to repair if I need too, I'll remove the old one off of the car first and see what state that's in, if needs be I'll use the old ancillary parts from my old one and the core of this one..

The joys of eBay, was £35 and described as used, no returns, I suggested the guy be better or more honest with his descriptions...


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Hi Trig,

Well that's a bummer about the chaffing. Used... some people have different ideas on what that means. Hopefully the connectors look good.

Russ


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Trig said:


> Well my cables arrived, the main section is fine, some very light corrosion on the ends but no biggy, it does, however, have some chaffing on one of the wires, its the 2 pin section one wires gone through the black and into the insulation and you can just see the metal, the other is all the way through the black and the insulation and there are a few broken strands..
> 
> The seller said he didn't notice it and that he would send me some tape to fix it, needless to say, I declined his offer and will most likely take it into work to repair if I need too, I'll remove the old one off of the car first and see what state that's in, if needs be I'll use the old ancillary parts from my old one and the core of this one..
> 
> The joys of eBay, was £35 and described as used, no returns, I suggested the guy be better or more honest with his descriptions...


Start a return, not as described/broken. Add photo's. He has to pay return post and you will get your money back


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

davebowk said:


> Start a return, not as described/broken. Add photo's. He has to pay return post and you will get your money back


Was described as used, no returns, there's no way looking at it he couldn't have noticed it but hey..
I'll make one good out of the two.

Just out of interest, whats the 2 pin connector for?


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Trig said:


> Was described as used, no returns


That is "scrap", not "used".

Only good for weighing in as scrap copper.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Open a case explaining it is scrap and not as described (used). You will get to keep it and get a refund


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Yes, that cable is probably worse than the one you have in your car already. Don't use it unless you can repair it (=replace the whole wire)


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Open a case explaining it is scrap and not as described (used). You will get to keep it and get a refund


Exactly this.
I can't believe that someone actually thought that fit to sell :x .
Only one place for it , the bin .
Do yourself a favour and get a refund , don't let seller get away with it .


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

silkman said:


> Yes, that cable is probably worse than the one you have in your car already. Don't use it unless you can repair it (=replace the whole wire)


Haha its nowhere near as bad as the one that's on the car, plan was to strip the ancillary wires off of the one on the car and just swap the main cable, which is the bit that I need, this is better than I have so was happy to take a punt on it as used as the ends both look good, it is just the 2 wire connector that's an issue..

I paid £35 for it so I'm not overly put out..


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

That "new" main cable is scrap.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Alternative is £66 on a slow boat from Latvia unless anyone can find a decent UK seller..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114532978657


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Have you tried your local TPS for a price?

Or if they won't deal with public, try RPS on Facebook. They are a branch of TPS that will.
https://www.facebook.com/RPSWorcester/


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Sent them a message on FB, see what they come back with.

I'll start a return with the chap on eBay, I expect I'll get zip from him though..


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Trig said:


> Alternative is £66 on a slow boat from Latvia unless anyone can find a decent UK seller..
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114532978657


I just bought something from Latvia. It was here in 4 working days. Delivery on ebay said 10 days


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Trig said:


> Sent them a message on FB, see what they come back with.
> 
> I'll start a return with the chap on eBay, I expect I'll get zip from him though..


Doesn't matter if he replies or not. Open a return and state it's scrap and not fit for purpose. If you don't get a paid return label from him just wait till you can escalate it then ebay will sort it.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Trig said:


> Sent them a message on FB, see what they come back with.
> 
> I'll start a return with the chap on eBay, I expect I'll get zip from him though..


Hi, Ebay sellers do not like Neg feedback it really affects their business.
In the first instance I contact the seller to arrange a collection, replace or refund.
If they have another it will be replaced or refunded.
If that fails(unlikely) & you used PayPal you will get your money back. PayPal usually favours the buyer.
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Looking at the pictures now and thinking about it, he knew, he couldn't not have, there's a decent pic of the other connector, but the one that's got a dodgy cable is taken further away and with the end piece, the background is crappy, if I ever sell stuff its on a white background and any marks or issues are clearly photographed..


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/shop/product ... J0971349GN

These guys source their parts from European main dealers and then ship from London , so they won't be anywhere near as quick as davebowks Latvian experience , but they are a decent seller.


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Find a local auto electrical company, and get them to make up the lead you need. They'll have (check first) hydraulic crimp kit to fit the lugs to each end. You could specify heavier gauge wire too.
Mac.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

David C said:


> Have you tried your local TPS for a price?
> 
> Or if they won't deal with public, try RPS on Facebook. They are a branch of TPS that will.
> https://www.facebook.com/RPSWorcester/


£76.70inc VAT and Delivery, see if they have them in stock, either these guys or LLLParts..


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So new cable from LLLParts has just arrived, while its snowing...

Typical..

Does anyone have a link to the VR or a part code, might as well swap that while I'm in the area.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Trig said:


> So new cable from LLLParts has just arrived, while its snowing...
> 
> Typical..
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the VR or a part code, might as well swap that while I'm in the area.


Hi, either of these depending on make of alternator. Usually Bosch or Valeo
06B903803B..06F903803B..070903803E
Usually plenty on Ebay
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So, swapped over the cable for the one I got from LLL today.
I now get ~14.3 with nothing on, or ~13.9 with lights rear screen heater on..

I must admit I did panic to start with, for some reason I thought the aircon alternator voltage was 21C, which was returning 0, had to come back on here and check...

Took her out for a quick spin to run the rust off of the discs and stuck £20 of super in there ready for back to work tomorrow..

Just need to get a new battery top fuse box and dipstick as snapped the end off of it when I was moving stuff about.


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Trig said:


> So, swapped over the cable for the one I got from LLL today.
> I now get ~14.3 with nothing on, or ~13.9 with lights rear screen heater on...


Great news Trig!

I replaced my battery top fusebox with one of the cheap Chinese ones. It was not an exact fit, but It worked 'OK' til my flakey cable fried it too. I replaced it with an OEM one here in the States, but if I had it to do over I'd stick with the cheap one.

Can you tell me what the length of the cable was? I'm still considering replacing it with a marine cable and heavier gauge.

Russ


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

I'll measure the old cable, there's also the 3 connectors, not sure how they interact with each other or the main cable, can strip it all down and check if you want.


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Trig said:


> I'll measure the old cable, there's also the 3 connectors, not sure how they interact with each other or the main cable, can strip it all down and check if you want.


Thanks Trig! If you have time that would be great. But I'm mostly interested in the big cable. How difficult did you find replacing the whole wiring harness?

Russ


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Yeah no worries chap, I'll grab it out of the garage when I get home..

The new cable was a bit of a PITA to route through where the old cable was, there's a lot of grime and crap everywhere after 16 years, I did manage to knock the top off of my dipstick, and removing the metal cover can be a bit tricky if its not been done before, there's a sensor that gets in the way sort of, but probably stops you moving the cover enough to actually break the dipstick pipe.

If you are just swapping the main generator cable then I would be tempted to route it differently and leave the old cable in place, just tape over the ends, save moving and possibly breaking more stuff when doing the job.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

RussAdams said:


> Trig said:
> 
> 
> > I'll measure the old cable, there's also the 3 connectors, not sure how they interact with each other or the main cable, can strip it all down and check if you want.
> ...


Its 46 inches chap


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Thanks Trig.

"46 inches"

Russ


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Trig said:


> Well my cables arrived, the main section is fine, some very light corrosion on the ends but no biggy, it does, however, have some chaffing on one of the wires, its the 2 pin section one wires gone through the black and into the insulation and you can just see the metal, the other is all the way through the black and the insulation and there are a few broken strands..
> 
> The seller said he didn't notice it and that he would send me some tape to fix it, needless to say, I declined his offer and will most likely take it into work to repair if I need too, I'll remove the old one off of the car first and see what state that's in, if needs be I'll use the old ancillary parts from my old one and the core of this one..
> 
> The joys of eBay, was £35 and described as used, no returns, I suggested the guy be better or more honest with his descriptions...


You don't buy off the seller, you buy off eBay. Your contract is with eBay and they are liable under consumer law for faulty goods/not as described etc. They have a separate contract with the seller and act as go between - something they don't highlight. Consumer rights apply.

Regarding the fuse box and cheap copies. I had to replace mine recently and the only thing available quickly was one of these. It looked the part but I noticed that the crimp connector to the flying battery lead was poor - strands of wire were escaping from the crimp and you could see the crimped stands move as you flexed the wire. Also the bus bars inside were thinner. I ended up swapping everything from the old one so the only new bits were the plastic casing and the three embedded green fuse/connector connections/pins.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

John-H said:


> You don't buy off the seller, you buy off eBay. Your contract is with eBay and they are liable under consumer law for faulty goods/not as described etc. They have a separate contract with the seller and act as go between - something they don't highlight. Consumer rights apply.


Requested a refund but haven't heard back yet..


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

He's now asking me if I would be happy with a partial refund... :?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Trig said:


> He's now asking me if I would be happy with a partial refund... :?


Hi, In my experience Ebay always side with the buyer, have you used the resolution procedure?
If so they provide a pre-paid return label& you get the money back with no problems.
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Hoggy said:


> Trig said:
> 
> 
> > He's now asking me if I would be happy with a partial refund... :?
> ...


Still going thru the motions with the seller, he wants to give me a partial refund as "We both know it costs pennys to repair the insulation" I've told him I don't want to repair it, and that I'm happy to send it back and someone else can repair it.
See what he comes back with this time.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Forget dealing with the seller, just start a return and ebay will sort it.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Trig, It's easier to use the Resolution Centre & I wish to return item as not as described.
Hoggy.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

So I don't have to contact the seller first then and can go straight thru the resolution centre, didn't know that, thought you had to deal with the seller first to see fi you could reach a solution..

He's now saying its outside of the 30 day return window and that he will refund half, or I can send it back for inspection...


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Use the contact seller link & then select "I received an item that wasn't as described" or whatever is suitable.
I did this last week & had a tracked pre-paid label within minutes.
Hogg


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Trig said:


> So, swapped over the cable for the one I got from LLL today.


Hi Trig, do you remember the part number for the new cable? I have my TT in to the garage for some other fixes, and finally remembered I still have a couple months remaining on an extended warranty. If I can get it fixed via warranty I'll go that route.

The part number I have is: 1J0971349GN. Which shows up as a VW part too.

Do you know if the VW part is the same? Loads of other VW parts fit. My garage guy says the TT cable is no longer available but if I can source one he will install for just the cost of labor.

Which is SIGNIFICANT btw. Hence the warranty.

Also, who is LLL and where are they located? Do you have a contact email?

Russ


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

RussAdams said:


> The part number I have is: 1J0971349GN. Which shows up as a VW part too.
> 
> Do you know if the VW part is the same? Loads of other VW parts fit.


That is a Mk4 Golf 4-Motion part, also listed for 2003-on Mk1 TT 1.8T

There are several other p/n listed for earlier Mk1 TT dependant on VIN number. I don't know what the difference is.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

David C said:


> RussAdams said:
> 
> 
> > The part number I have is: 1J0971349GN. Which shows up as a VW part too.
> ...


For starters, the ac compressor can have two types of plugs, square or D shaped - check what you have, not a big deal; when buying a new compressor and it has the wrong plug you can cut and splice the old one in place (2 cables) but not sure if you have access to do that in place...


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

You can get a short plug in adapter to match mismatched plugs that can be fitted in situ. The aircon compressor I recently fitted came with one to suit either loom.


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Hey Russ,

Given you are in the states, have you tried FCPEuro? Never used them personally but Samcrac and Richrebuilds do..
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-a ... j0971349gn

Part number I ordered was 1J0971349GN

LLLParts are UK based so might cost you more in shipping that getting it from your end of the world.
https://www.lllparts.co.uk/shop/product ... J0971349GN


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## Trig (Jun 7, 2013)

Oh, and as an update, the guy offered me a £20 refund on the cable, I accepted as cba messing about..

So if anyone wants a cable, you can have it for £15 lol


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

Trig said:


> Hey Russ,
> 
> Given you are in the states, have you tried FCPEuro? Never used them personally but Samcrac and Richrebuilds do..
> https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-a ... j0971349gn
> ...


Thanks Trig!

Yes, I've used FCP Euro. Good company. Always good to have a parts source, even if it's across the pond (LLLParts). I've successfully purchased things from Lithuania. Shipping is cheaper and faster than the UK, interestingly enough.

I think that 1J0971349GN is not the right part number for my 2001 TT.

Looking at the 2001 TT listing on 7zap I'm seeing 3 different part numbers (as David C pointed out) for the alternator wiring harness. I'm not sure how to interpret the numbers in the chart. Can you give me some help? What are those number ranges? They don't look like my VIN number (TRUUT28N811004531). What are they? Engine numbers, or?


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

John-H said:


> You can get a short plug in adapter to match mismatched plugs that can be fitted in situ. The aircon compressor I recently fitted came with one to suit either loom.


Thanks John! So it's likely just connectors that are different?

Russ


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

silkman said:


> For starters, the ac compressor can have two types of plugs, square or D shaped - check what you have, not a big deal; when buying a new compressor and it has the wrong plug you can cut and splice the old one in place (2 cables) but not sure if you have access to do that in place...


Great hint! Thanks Silkman! rUSS


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

David C said:


> That is a Mk4 Golf 4-Motion part, also listed for 2003-on Mk1 TT 1.8T
> 
> There are several other p/n listed for earlier Mk1 TT dependant on VIN number. I don't know what the difference is.


Thanks David!


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

RussAdams said:


> I think that 1J0971349GN is not the right part number for my 2001 TT.
> 
> Looking at the 2001 TT listing on 7zap I'm seeing 3 different part numbers (as David C pointed out) for the alternator wiring harness. I'm not sure how to interpret the numbers in the chart. Can you give me some help? What are those number ranges? They don't look like my VIN number ###. What are they? Engine numbers, or?


They are VIN numbers, but with gaps where the check numbers are.
The "Y" is 2000 Model Year. The same character in your VIN is the 2nd "1" for the 2001 Model Year.
>> means onwards.
So 1J0971349GC would be the correct one for yours.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

RussAdams said:


> Great hint! Thanks Silkman! rUSS


You're welcome.

Just had a look at this "mysterious" alternator harness in oem wiring diagram.
Photo from ecs tuning
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... 0971349gn/









It consists of:
-The main alternator cable to fusebox is 16mm gauge, one side has a standard big soldertype ring terminal and the fusebox side has one of those - Part Below is for 6mm cable so fit a standard ring terminal for 16mm cable








-The rest is one 4pin plug that gets split into the two 2 pin plugs. Wire colours or a multimeter shows what goes where.

So essentially to rebuild this, you get a length of 16 or 20mm gauge battery copper wire, you split the old harness noting the lengths and locations of the small plugs, replace the thick battery wire and attach everything with heat shrink and some cloth Tesa tape, easy DIY. Even if one or more of the secondary plugs is messed up, these are easy and available to replace. DIY cost should be about 20-30.

The most difficult part is removing and refitting the harness (a job that you will have to do even with a new one)


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## RussAdams (Feb 21, 2017)

silkman said:


> -The main alternator cable to fusebox is 16mm gauge
> 
> So essentially to rebuild this, you get a length of 16 or 20mm gauge battery copper wire, you split the old harness noting the lengths and locations of the small plugs, replace the thick battery wire and attach everything with heat shrink and some cloth Tesa tape, easy DIY. Even if one or more of the secondary plugs is messed up, these are easy and available to replace. DIY cost should be about 20-30.
> 
> The most difficult part is removing and refitting the harness (a job that you will have to do even with a new one)


Great stuff! Thanks so much! Russ


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