# whirring haldex problem noise. - SOLVED



## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

Hi,

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1H658F4Z

noticed i had a flat tyre - rear passengers side, went to put air in and it was at 17 psi! 
didn't notice when this had happened...

what made me realise i had the flat was this weird whirring/ticking electronic noise coming from rear wheels - both sides...

any ideas wtf it could be? the recording was done with engine off car stationary key turned - but the noise can be heard with engine on car moving ...

doing a quick search brings up problems with rear diff/haldex controller...i have no idea about this system...if this is the case is it damaging my tt whilst driving like this? what needs to be done?


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

scanned it with vagcome today and this came up :-

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

Control Module Part Number: 8N0 907 379 E
Component and/or Version: ESP 20 CAN V005 
Software Coding: 18446
Work Shop Code: WSC 01236
1 Fault Found:
01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Control Module Part Number: 02D 900 554 B
Component and/or Version: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006
Software Coding: 
Work Shop Code: 
1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus
37-00 - Faulty

any ideas what this could be ? haldex unit? or just controller? is it worth just trying a oil/filter change and seeing if that fixes it ?


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## haf1zur (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi

That sounds like your precharge pump, could even be your haldex controller, more likely the pump

If its a 2000 TT 225, that would of also come with the old revision of the Haldex controller

Your errors:

Control Module Part Number: 8N0 907 379 E
Component and/or Version: ESP 20 CAN V005 
Software Coding: 18446
Work Shop Code: WSC 01236
1 Fault Found:
01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Control Module Part Number: 02D 900 554 B
Component and/or Version: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006
Software Coding: 
Work Shop Code: 
1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus
37-00 - Faulty

Was that scanned while fuse 31 was in or out? If the fuse was in then you will need to double check the controller and pump wiring connectors. If you raise your car off the ground, axle stands will do if you dont have access to a lift, you will see a cable going along the back of your rear differential. Disconnect these and check theres no oil/grime/rust on the connectors. At the front of the diff the controller connects to the pump, check these as well.

If that is fine, and you are still getting No communications from the haldex controller, you can change the controller, but before you do that, try some electrical contact cleaner on both the pump and the controller.

If you look at the pic below:










On the left hand side there looks like a gray bar going from the bottom to the top, well, what attaches to the bottom of that is the precharge pump and what is at the top is the controller.

I see from above you got the Revision B model of the controller, this was replaced by a C model in 2001. You can get a controller from any of the following cars:

TT 225
S3 Quattro
A3 Quattro
Golf V6
Golf R32
Octavia VRS

You want a haldex generation 1 controller

Its a lot easier to replace the pump and controller than changing the whole diff.

Best thing to search for a diff on ebay or something and swap out both the pump and controller

If you had grinding noise then it would of been the actual diff being faulty whereby the pinion locks itself.

Oh and when you do change it, before you lower the car back on the ground, start it up and see if all 4 wheels are moving.

Hafizur


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

haf1zur said:


> Hi
> 
> That sounds like your precharge pump, could even be your haldex controller, more likely the pump
> 
> ...


wow, now that's what i call a response, thank you kind sir!

yes i scanned that with fuse 31 in, i have since removed the fuse to stop the looping electrical/pump/controller noise...
I will be getting the car on a ramp today and checking/cleaning all connections as a 1st measure...

if that does not solve the issue, il change the pump/controller over..
so to clarify i can use a gen1 controller/pump from any of those cars rear diff, from 2001 up to ???? which year? as there are some on ebay but a few are from mk5 golf's, mk2 tt's ? would these be ok?

i guess once its changed a good oil/filter change will need to be done too right?


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## haf1zur (Sep 28, 2010)

If you need to use the car, you can leave the fuse unplugged, it will be the same as a FWD car

The following cars use the same diff/pump/controller from 2001 onwards

MK1 TT 225 Quattro i believe upto 2006
MK1 A3 Quattro upto 2003
MK1 S3 upto 2003
MK4 Golf V6 upto 2003
MK4 Golf R32 upto 2003
Octavia VRS upto 2003

You cant use any from mk5/mk6 golfs or mk2 tt/s3/a3, they use the 2nd generation controller

Once you change it, yes do a filter and oil change. It would all come out once you replace the pump

Hafizur


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

BUY A BLUE CONTROLLER INSTEAD !!!!!! :lol: :lol: Bloody brilliant and put more power to the back wheels... :twisted:

on a serious note it may be nothing at all... the wires to the haldex controller may need some work.. (i have seen them need to be cut and jointed as they have seemed to corrode or burn out)

It may well be the controller has gone pop... and if you just want standard i think les has one, or awesome should have one second hand in stock. (they've just got a donnor TT in to put the engine into les's car)


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

haf1zur said:


> If you need to use the car, you can leave the fuse unplugged, it will be the same as a FWD car
> 
> The following cars use the same diff/pump/controller from 2001 onwards
> 
> ...


Hafizur, your knowledge has been an immense help ..[smiley=book2.gif] .thanks again :mrgreen: ...hopefully this will help many others too, as i've searched long and hard with regards to this fault, and there aren't many comprehensive posts around... [smiley=gossip.gif]


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

tony_rigby_uk said:


> BUY A BLUE CONTROLLER INSTEAD !!!!!! :lol: :lol: Bloody brilliant and put more power to the back wheels... :twisted:
> 
> on a serious note it may be nothing at all... the wires to the haldex controller may need some work.. (i have seen them need to be cut and jointed as they have seemed to corrode or burn out)
> 
> It may well be the controller has gone pop... and if you just want standard i think les has one, or awesome should have one second hand in stock. (they've just got a donnor TT in to put the engine into les's car)


cheers tony, im gonna get it up on a ramp this evening hopefully and check the wires out, if its crap i may try hard wiring it..if its the controller/pump then il get on to les/awesome (didn't think of contacting them nice 1!)
i would love the blue one, but cannot justify spending that kind of money on something il probably hardly notice....more important things need doing 1st :wink:


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

techfreak said:


> if its the controller/pump then il get on to les/awesome (didn't think of contacting them nice 1!)
> i would love the blue one, but cannot justify spending that kind of money on something il probably hardly notice....more important things need doing 1st :wink:


yeah i'm sure les still has his... but if not awesome will have one on the donnor car... but if all else fails anyone who has upgraded will have a spare... but don't be ripped off i sold mine to someone in your position for 80quid i think.


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

looks like i may not need it fingers crossed!!!!   :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

was getting so fed up driving around 2wd! its horrible! 
took it to garage, got it up on ramp, and had a look at the connections, theres a connection on the diff itself thats protected by a metal plate, got the plate off and the connection was clean, so clean i didnt even bother spraying any contact cleaner, just reconnected it.

on the left i noticed another connector in a much more accessible place not connected to the diff (dammit should have taken some pics!), couldnt get that off for the life of me, dont knw if its seized or what? but left it rather than snapping it to peices...

turned the ignition, and lo-and-behold NO NOISE? tried it again, NO NOISE? 
could i be so lucky? 
drove to my vagcom (mother in laws laptop!) and car drove fine, felt much better, cleared the codes, and they cleared rather than coming straight back on ....will drive some more and re scan tomor, hopefully all good?
still no noise when i got home, you can hear the pump or controller whurring and engaging, then it stops after a second or 2...sounds like it should when you turn the key to the 1st position...


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

AAARGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH

i knew it was too good to be true...

i had the rear tyre changed as it had an extremely slow puncture, and the noise has come back!

duno how, or why, but it has!

i'm getting it back on ramp again tomor and hopefully fiddling with the connectors should solve it ?? [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

thanks to fellow tt forum member Marty, after him upgrading to blue haldex I bought his old controller.
had it changed 2 weeks ago and now its fine, no more fault codes, and could instantly feel the difference in the drive soon as the new controller was installed.
so very glad to have quattro back.


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

A bump for those recently posting about haldex...

Some info in here may help


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## george118 (Sep 1, 2009)

I have a 2001 x reg 225, does anyone know if this would be a gen 1 or 2 controller?

Cheers


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## Grahamstt (Jul 22, 2008)

Gen 1


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## george118 (Sep 1, 2009)

Cheers graham, sorry for the late reply


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

Hi, I know this is an old post but I have exactly the same noise coming from the rear of my car and the same error code too and when pulling the fuse, I must have a haldex or per charge pump failure as the noise stops.


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

Kprincess said:


> Hi, I know this is an old post but I have exactly the same noise coming from the rear of my car and the same error code too and when pulling the fuse, I must have a haldex or per charge pump failure as the noise stops.


Sounds like it unfortunately.

Seems to be too many tt's weren't being serviced properly I.e. haldex.

Start looking for a used one if you can - hard to find. Or now might be a good time to upgrade.

You'll also need the filter and oil. If you're taking it somewhere to be done make sure they have the tool to remove the filter too.


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

techfreak said:


> Kprincess said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, I know this is an old post but I have exactly the same noise coming from the rear of my car and the same error code too and when pulling the fuse, I must have a haldex or per charge pump failure as the noise stops.
> ...


Oh crap!, there's me thinking the bastards of the insurance company that repaired my car messed it up as it wasn't like that when I gave it in for repair.


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## techfreak (Aug 13, 2010)

Worth asking the question of them...

Who knows what they've done?


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

techfreak said:


> Worth asking the question of them...
> 
> Who knows what they've done?


I wish they'd listen but guess you haven't read my car crash thread.

Big fight with insurance ATM :x


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