# EVAP canister? N80? ** EDIT: SOLVED I THINK! **



## New_TT_Owner

I know it's a long shot but any help much appreciated: I've searched online now for almost 2 hours and am either blind or thick. Getting confused and sidetracked.

After running VCDS on my car with the EMS light on (but it runs totally fine as far as I can tell) it came up with the following fault:

1 Fault Found:
001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow 
P0441 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 7
Mileage: 75708 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.03.30
Time: 11:51:06

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 755 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 83.0°C
Temperature: 42.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-

I looked it up and found this:

16825/P0441/001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow

Possible Symptoms 
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes 
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80) faulty/jammed 
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115) faulty/jammed 
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Sealing faulty 
Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body leaky/blocked

Possible Solutions 
Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80) 
Perform Output Test 
Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115) 
Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister 
Perform Basic Setting 
Check Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body

--

Now I don't know where any of these things are and I don't know if it's anything I can do an easy clean/check on/maybe even replace myself??

I've got the dealer's warranty but it's far away and I am not sure if these things will be covered because the car still runs fine.

I don't particularly just want to take it to a garage because they'll charge loads for new bits etc when something somewhere may just need a simple clean.

BTW the car was fine until I filled it up with cheap Asda fuel. I'm wondering if this fuel is rubbish and it clogged something up. Therefore I'm wondering if different fuel and a fuel detergent type thing may help!?

Any help on where the part is, how I'd test it, what I can do etc etc much appreciated


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## Skipbreather

My one and only CEL was for this, but only one frequency count. Mine also happened at idle & zero mph. I chalked mine up to filling my gas tank up to the very brim since I knew next fill would find gas prices crazy higher. My guess- I emphasize guess- is that a blob of fuel got into the canister's breather opening inside the filler neck's top and eventually decided to cause mischief.

Not saying this is definitely your problem, but do you habitually fill your tank ALL the way up?


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## piloTT

Think I can help you out with this one.....

My 2007 car that now belogs to my sister has the same fault. VCDS shows that it has flagged up about 7 times (like yours) before it throws the engine light on.

From the research I have done I have come to the conclusion it is that if you fill the fuel tank brim full and keep filing once the pump cuts off to get as much in as possible then fuel makes it way into the fuel vent line. This in turn gets into the black charcoal canister (open the bonnet and its on the left side at the front) charcoal particles then exit the canister out of the top and enter the N80 purge control valve, partially blocking it either open or closed.

What I intend to do when I get home is replace the charcoal canister (£70) and the N80 (£25) with is under the plastic engine cover and I am pretty sure this will do the job.

I would imagine this would be covered by warranty but you never know...

You should be able to test the N80 in VCDS output tests and you will hear it clicking. (mind you, it could still click if partially contaminated)

Part number for the N80 is 06H 906 517B and the charcoal filter is 1K0201801D and it looks like this....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400161340844&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

You can clear the fault and my guess is that (if its like my sisters car) it will only return after several weeks. If you do clear it however, the dealer will have no info to go on.

Please let me know how you get on.... I would be very interested to know.


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## New_TT_Owner

Skipbreather said:


> My one and only CEL was for this, but only one frequency count. Mine also happened at idle & zero mph. I chalked mine up to filling my gas tank up to the very brim since I knew next fill would find gas prices crazy higher. My guess- I emphasize guess- is that a blob of fuel got into the canister's breather opening inside the filler neck's top and eventually decided to cause mischief.
> 
> Not saying this is definitely your problem, but do you habitually fill your tank ALL the way up?


Hmm, I did fill her up (only my second fill since buying it) ALL the way up.

I always do 

So what does that mean? what do I do?


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> Think I can help you out with this one.....
> 
> My 2007 car that now belogs to my sister has the same fault. VCDS shows that it has flagged up about 7 times (like yours) before it throws the engine light on.
> 
> From the research I have done I have come to the conclusion it is that if you fill the fuel tank brim full and keep filing once the pump cuts off to get as much in as possible then fuel makes it way into the fuel vent line. This in turn gets into the black charcoal canister (open the bonnet and its on the left side at the front) charcoal particles then exit the canister out of the top and enter the N80 purge control valve, partially blocking it either open or closed.
> 
> What I intend to do when I get home is replace the charcoal canister (£70) and the N80 (£25) with is under the plastic engine cover and I am pretty sure this will do the job.
> 
> I would imagine this would be covered by warranty but you never know...
> 
> You should be able to test the N80 in VCDS output tests and you will hear it clicking. (mind you, it could still click if partially contaminated)
> 
> Part number for the N80 is 06H 906 517B and the charcoal filter is 1K0201801D and it looks like this....
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400161340844&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
> 
> You can clear the fault and my guess is that (if its like my sisters car) it will only return after several weeks. If you do clear it however, the dealer will have no info to go on.
> 
> Please let me know how you get on.... I would be very interested to know.


Ah ok... sounds interesting. Yes I always fill up to above the brim (after the clicks I try to get more in  ). Done it every time since buying the car (i.e. twice). However I don't quite get how fuel will get fro the engine into the charcoal canister (which actually normally just has exhaust air going through it I *Think*)... but then I'm no mechanic.

This might sound silly but what about giving the hose/valve/canister thing a shake to dislodge the bit of charcoal?

And I've only just used VCDS for the first time. All I did was the standard auto test thing which went through everything. But my forum searches are suggesting cryptic little clues into other things I should be doing and at the moment I'm guessing I need to go to "service modules" then click on "engine" and there I see "output tests", where I can choose the EVAP thing - I do that and it just goes for a minute going "ON OFF ON OFF" etc and that's about it. (this is with the engine off)

Then there's a the ""basic settings" tab but I chicken out once I click on that because it asks for ubers and stuff and I have no idea if the engine should be on. I'm terrified of doing damage to the car by doing these tests because if you lick on the eninge module it says "safe" on the left and "refer to service manual" on the right, where the "output tests" and "basic" tabs are, so I'm bricking it a little. I bottled it and came back in...

What other tests should I do please?


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## piloTT

The charcoal canister "collects" vapor from the fuel tank, it runs to the hole around the filler neck, so it is possible to fill this with fuel rather than just fuel vapour. On engine start the N80 purge valve opens and allows the collected vapour to be sucked into the inlet manifold and then burnt. So instead of being vented to atmosphere, it is effectivly recycled,

You could try taking the valve out and trying to dislodge anything that may be blocking it, it might work but if the canister is contaminated with wet fuel it may just block again.

To test the N80...

Engine off, ignition on. On the vag-com screen where you see the 'fault codes' button you will see an 'output test' button. When you press this the ECU will cycle all possible valves, injectors etc, one at a time. You are looking for the N80 valve, and when this is cycled you need to feel whether it's clicking. If it isn't then you need to check for a bad valve or dodgy wiring. If it is clicking then I would remove the valve and do the test again, but blow through it second time, the valve should cycle open/close/open/close until you stop the test. Just remember, it may(?) stil click even if contaminated.

What year and engine does your car have.... its much easier to get to the N80 on later cars with the CESA engine as you dont have to remobe the engine cover like you would on the earlier BWA engine.


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## New_TT_Owner

Sounds great but where is the N80 valve please? Easy to get to?

I've done an output test and chosen the n80 specifically. Just goes on off on off etc for a minute but maybe I need to step out the car and actually listen to the valve?

Surely if something is stuck in the valve I just need to clear it out or replace it. Why change the whole canister too?


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## piloTT

New_TT_Owner said:


> Sounds great but where is the N80 valve please? Easy to get to?
> 
> I've done an output test and chosen the n80 specifically. Just goes on off on off etc for a minute but maybe I need to step out the car and actually listen to the valve?
> 
> Surely if something is stuck in the valve I just need to clear it out or replace it. Why change the whole canister too?


Depening on the year and engine of your car, it could be in different positions. Like I said.....Tell me the year and I can tell you the location.

Yes, you need to open the bonnet and you should hear it clicking on/off. It should also give you a clue to location...its quite loud.

The valve cannot be opened up...you might be able to shake bits out if you disconnect it. for the sake of £20 just replace it.

The Charcoal canister is not designed to get wet with liquid fuel, it will beak down the paper portion holding the charcoal.


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## MXS

It would help if the OP read through the replies a bit more carefully :wink:


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## New_TT_Owner

Sorry guys I did a quick reply from work struggling on a slow iphone on 2G! I won't be so hasty next time. This is another hasty reply but on a PC. I'll read and reply properly when back later

btw my car is BWA JPP 2007 2.0T FSI s-tronic for now...


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> The charcoal canister "collects" vapor from the fuel tank, it runs to the hole around the filler neck, so it is possible to fill this with fuel rather than just fuel vapour. On engine start the N80 purge valve opens and allows the collected vapour to be sucked into the inlet manifold and then burnt. So instead of being vented to atmosphere, it is effectivly recycled,
> 
> You could try taking the valve out and trying to dislodge anything that may be blocking it, it might work but if the canister is contaminated with wet fuel it may just block again.
> 
> To test the N80...
> 
> Engine off, ignition on. On the vag-com screen where you see the 'fault codes' button you will see an 'output test' button. When you press this the ECU will cycle all possible valves, injectors etc, one at a time. You are looking for the N80 valve, and when this is cycled you need to feel whether it's clicking. If it isn't then you need to check for a bad valve or dodgy wiring. If it is clicking then I would remove the valve and do the test again, but blow through it second time, the valve should cycle open/close/open/close until you stop the test. Just remember, it may(?) stil click even if contaminated.
> 
> What year and engine does your car have.... its much easier to get to the N80 on later cars with the CESA engine as you dont have to remobe the engine cover like you would on the earlier BWA engine.


Thanks mate, really appreciating your time and effort. You're a great help! 

I'm just shocked that Audi, who to my mind are some of the best engineers around, would make such a glaringly daft design error such that if you fill up a bit too full fuel will go into the wrong place. It just doesn't make the slightest bit of sense. But it does seem to fit with my filling habits...

My car is a May 2007 s-tronic 2.0T unchipped. BWA JPP I believe. Would be interested to know where the cannister and valve are. I have elsawin but can't seem to find it there. Well I can find a wierd circuit diagram mention of N80 but there's certainly no mention of N115 for some reason.

I don't understand this: "If it is clicking then I would remove the valve and do the test again, but blow through it second time, the valve should cycle open/close/open/close until you stop the test. " I think I remember reading something like this on another forum/thread and being equally confused... how would one do the test again when the valve is physically not connected!? Is this even safe? And blow through what? The valve I've just removed and which is no longer connected? Or do you mean remove it, blow through it to clear out debris, and then connect it up and try it again?

If it IS clicking then I guess it's the wiring or hose or cannister then?

One of the bits of advice from VCDS is "check EVAP canister - perform basic setting"... what is this? how do I perform a "basic setting" on this unit and what will it tell me?

Thanks again mate, I'm appreciating your input!


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## piloTT

piloTT said:


> the black charcoal canister (open the bonnet and its on the left side at the front) .


Have a look at the link to the picture...that will give you a clue what to look for. you cant mistake it for something else.

Right... back to the N80. This is what it looks like...

http://www.koperformance.com/part-number/06E906517A/GENUINE-VW/AUDI

it has the charcoal canister connected via a hose to one air inlet and the the air oulet on the other side runs to the intake manifold. The valve is normaly closed but when supplied with power (from the engine ECU) it opens the valve and the air is free to run between the inlet and the outlet.

The point is... even if you van hear it clicking, all you know is that there is power to it and the internal actuater is working. you dont know for sure if it is actually opening the valve interally and allowing air from one side to the other.

The second test will confirm this. Disconnect the valve from the air hose but leave the electrical plugg connected. Now try blowing through it as it is clicking to see if air is passing through it when it is cycling open/close/open/close etc. This will prove conclusivley if you valve is OK or not.

On the BWA engine you will have to remove the plastic engine cover to see where it is.

Simply follow the air line coming from the top of the charcoal canister and it will be the first thing you come to.


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## piloTT

you can see the charcoal canister in Engine pic in the link directly in front of the white (pink) collant bottle on the left side...

http://www.familycar.com/RoadTests/AudiTT/Images/Engine.jpg


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## New_TT_Owner

That all makes perfect sense, thank you piloTT.

As per the poster on the other thread I don't know how to remove the engine cover but will have a look on elsawin - it must be there.

Can I just ask - in doing some reading which lead me to look into cleaning the throttle something-or-other, I wasa bti put off by people sayig you need to recalibrate once putting it all back etc. I am hoping undoing the pipes necessary here (both to remove the plastic cover and to disconnect the N80) are simply a case of pulling off and puttig back on, with no recalibration needed or pressure/vaccuum losses or anything?

And sorry to ask so many Qs but have you had any experience with the advice from VCDS: "check EVAP canister - perform basic setting"... how do I perform a "basic setting" on this unit in VCDS and what will it tell me?


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## piloTT

If you PM me your email addess I will send you a PDF showing engine cover removal.

As for the the removal of the N80... there is nothing to recalibrate when you but it back together.

Although I have little experience of running the,VCDS Basic settings, it is simply a test of the entire Evap system and I think you only get a pass or fail at the end, as far as I know it does not diagnose which part is at fault.

If you get the engine cover off, I would appriciate you telling me the part number of the purge valve as I may need to order one myself. Should either be..

06H 906 517 B
or
06E 906 517A (edited to correct number)

A picture would be better if you could....


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> If you PM me your email addess I will send you a PDF showing engine cover removal.
> 
> As for the the removal of the N80... there is nothing to recalibrate when you but it back together.
> 
> Although I have little experience of running the,VCDS Basic settings, it is simply a test of the entire Evap system and I think you only get a pass or fail at the end, as far as I know it does not diagnose which part is at fault.
> 
> If you get the engine cover off, I would appriciate you telling me the part number of the purge valve as I may need to order one myself. Should either be..
> 
> 06H 906 517 B
> or
> 06E 906 717A
> 
> A picture would be better if you could....


Thanks. If I don't find it on Elsawin I'll PM you.

If the basics stuff won't damage anything I'll give it a go, but I'm a bit concerned in cae I do damage something so am holding off.

Afterall, according to what the output report says it's not just N80 that could be gone but N115, which from my google reading seems to be another valve which I think is in the canister instead? So replacing N80 may not be necessary afterall (?).

The part number you gave originally seems to be for the 8N (according to autoparts)... I've had a look on etka and am a bit confused to be honest. Need to play around with it a bit more maybe

Yes sure, whether I do it myself or succumb to a garage doing it, I'll get you the part number.

Any idea how long it'll take me to do myself? Am guessing those hoses can e a real git to remove. If it takes too long I may just bite the bullet and get a garage to do it if it's only an hour or so work. Oly trouble is they'll take the eay option and just replace all the bits...


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> If you PM me your email addess I will send you a PDF showing engine cover removal.
> 
> As for the the removal of the N80... there is nothing to recalibrate when you but it back together.
> 
> Although I have little experience of running the,VCDS Basic settings, it is simply a test of the entire Evap system and I think you only get a pass or fail at the end, as far as I know it does not diagnose which part is at fault.
> 
> If you get the engine cover off, I would appriciate you telling me the part number of the purge valve as I may need to order one myself. Should either be..
> 
> 06H 906 517 B
> or
> 06E 906 717A
> 
> A picture would be better if you could....


Firstly I've just spent five mins trying to remove the cover. Undid the clips and bits but the cover doesn't pull off easily at all. Trying to pul but it eems stuck onto somethin in the middle somewhere giving me the distinct feeling that if I pull the edges up harder something somewhere is going to crack/break. Am I just being a wooss and do I actually just need tp pull up really hard?

Re: the part number it's actually none of those! I can (just about) see the thing in the front of the engine even without removing the engine.

It says:

"06E" (I'm pretty sure this is what it says) followed by "906 517A" the "I13307" in smaller numbers. I'm sure about the last two but not couldn't see the "06E" as clearly.

I have no flash on my iphone so don't think I can get a good shot, but will gladly try do something if you really want.


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## piloTT

To be honest I have not actually removed the engine cover on that engine but others can be quite a tug to get off.. so cant really help you there other than the PDF that shows a certain sequence of pulling.

As for the part number, it will indeed be 06E 906 517A. (£24.49) the number I gave earlier had a typo error. 

I presume the valve is visible without removing the cover. I presume it is just under the front edge of the cover?


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> To be honest I have not actually removed the engine cover on that engine but others can be quite a tug to get off.. so cant really help you there other than the PDF that shows a certain sequence of pulling.
> 
> As for the part number, it will indeed be 06E 906 517A. (£24.49) the number I gave earlier had a typo error.
> 
> I presume the valve is visible without removing the cover. I presume it is just under the front edge of the cover?


Yep it's visible without removing the cover alright.

I did the click test btw and it clicks just fine.

I did the "basic" test on "group 070" with the engine running and it gave me

30.5% evap.emmisions sol.valve (Flow)
6.6% Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)
0% oxygen control sensor deviation

TBH I've no idea what I was doing though - I just gingerly tapped the throttle a little bit every now and then. No idea what thoe numbers mean!

I've still not managed to get the engine off. I have the sequence and I've pulled fairly hard (I'm ot a terrible strong guy tbh) and can't get anything off at the firt position.

I'm wondering if it's worth it though because I see the hoses are connected with some hefty looking clamps (bear in mind I'm a real nerd who doesn' normally do car engine stuff - but I learn quickly). Do I buy "clamp pliers" to undo them and are they reusable? Can I just clamp them back in place?


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## piloTT

TBH I also dont know if those values are good or not.....further research required I think. Ross-tech (VCDS maker) would prob know.

As for those hose clamps. A lot of those used by Audi are single use only. They can be cut off with strong wire cutters or the crimp opened with a flat blade screwdriver. But then you would have to replace them with some other sort of Jubilee clip or originals which are a pain [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> TBH I also dont know if those values are good or not.....further research required I think. Ross-tech (VCDS maker) would prob know.
> 
> As for those hose clamps. A lot of those used by Audi are single use only. They can be cut off with strong wire cutters or the crimp opened with a flat blade screwdriver. But then you would have to replace them with some other sort of Jubilee clip or originals which are a pain [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Ok thanks.

Seeming less user serviceable by the minute.

I'm hoping I can give it to my non-Audi specialist garage (who I've been with for years and who are awesome) and say "please change the valve" and they'll have all the right tools/experience to do it, rather than me faffing around.

Thing is though, I don't know if it's the N80 or the charcoal cannister or as you say likely both. And will they get the part cheaper? I've no idea.

I fear they'll just order the whole set of canister/hose/valve etc at full Audi price instead of get it down to the exact component which I'd rather do.

But then my time professionally is worth a fair amount per hour so possibly I should be getting them to do it as I've already spent several hours on this. :?


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## New_TT_Owner

Having spent the best part of the last few days researchig every forum I could and toing and froing to the car and havig sleepless nights (literally) I know how annoying it is to come across a thread which is unfinished because the original person sorted the problem and then didn't bother to update the thread for the benefit of others. So this is for anyone in the future who may find this helpful, as well as piloTT and anyone else interested.

It SEEMS as though my problem is sorted !! Not only do I not have the light anymore BUT MY CAR ALSO RUNS LIKE A DREAM WITH INCREDIBLE FUEL CONSUMPTION. !!!!!????????

Now I know full well, having read countless posts on this, that for some people the EMS light comes on but when drive the next morning or so it's disappeared. However mine was not obviously intermittent. It came on a week ago and it stayed on stubbornly, no matter what I did. Then today I tinkered about and.... IT'S GONE!!!!

So what did I do?

TBH I'm not entirely sure what did it but I'll talk you through exactly what I did in case one of these was the answer and it helps someone one day. (Read the OP to see exactly what my error was.)

1 - I tried to remove the engine cover, but being a big girl's blouse I failed. Was too scared to crack it as force required is more than I'm comfortable with. However - in case it's relevant - I undid the thingymagig on the top left of the engine (air flow thingy?) and the inlet at the front right in order to remove the cover. I have no idea if this somehow helped. Doubt it, but as I said I'm goin to list everything. (I of course put it all back again)

2 - Before working on the car today after reading suggestions on other forums about the petrol cap I thought I'd try opening it up and putting it back on REALLY tightly. I started the car but..... no joy. However, it's possible I guess that this would have had a delayed reaction...?

3 - Reading about the possibiliy of the valve thing getting jammed I gave the N80 valve a couple of hard-ish knocks to try and unjam it. Who knows if this actually did anything.

4 - (I think this or the next is what did it but am not sure) Using VCDS I went to Engine --> Output --> scrolled down to EVAP and ran the test (just ignition on, not engine) and waited a minute for the test to complete. (for what it' worth, the valve clicked nicely. Well actually to begin with it was a bit hit and miss I think but by the end the valve was clicking regularly which is good I undertand)

5 - After faffing around online doing forum searches again for a bit I came back out and used VCDS again, but this time I grew the balls to do the "Basic" testing. So for this I went to -->Engine --> Basics, then I put the engine on and let it idle.
Then for the "Group" I typed in "070" which I understand is the EVAP readiness test or something. I clicked Go. It struggled for quite a while to be honest and the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" went from about 2% slowly creeping up to about 30% then the test stopped. The oxygen parameter was somehting like "-13%". Of course I have no idea what these mean. But it was at this point I was shocked to see the light had vanished. Naturally I thought this was just because I was connected up or something. For some reason I ran the test again anyway and lo and behold the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" faffed around for a bit then went up quite quickly to about 70% and the test ended.

NOTE: I a fully aware of re-setting the light on VCDS but I have always been very careful NEVER to accidentally reset the warning light as I do not wish to mask something that's there. So just in case anyone thinks this is what I accidentally did - no I did not.

The car has been fine since.

Shocked I decided I'd leave the engine alone and spent an hour or so washing it then mowing the lawn. I came back to it and.... STILL NO LIGHT! I then went out for a 45min drive really caning the car on all sorts of town roads/motorways/dual carriageways in every gear and driving in every way possible. The light remained off. I then came in and decided to go out again. Still, it's off.

And what's more, I have NEVER had such incredible fuel economy from it. Suddenly my granny driving economy went from 26 to 36mpg and my crazy drivin economy now seems to be 27.5 (from 20). Plus it just seems to drive lovely (or maybe that's all in my head).

I don't know how but something I did seems to have helped. My guess is either it was the cap was not on tightly enough (remember problems started a couple of hours after filling the tank to the brim (only second tank fill I've done since buying the car) OR the valve or something was jammed but knocking it physically or running these valve-intensive tests somehow just dislodged it and it's now fine.

piloTT, you may want to try any of the above in case it helps.

Who knows, it may just save you a load of bother!

Will update if the light comes on again bu I'm keeping my fingers crossed....


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## piloTT

Well congratulations!!!

Suppose the acid test now is is for it to stay out over a period of time. It will show up in VCDS active faults before it puts the light on so its probably worth checking after a few days to see the date of the last occurance (it seems to happen with a cold engine at idle). I think the log in your original post showed that it had occured 7 times before throwing the EMS light on.

Did you notice if the active fault (for the previous occurances) was still there after the light went out?

Anyway....well done and fingers crossed.


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## New_TT_Owner

piloTT said:


> Well congratulations!!!
> 
> Suppose the acid test now is is for it to stay out over a period of time. It will show up in VCDS active faults before it puts the light on so its probably worth checking after a few days to see the date of the last occurance (it seems to happen with a cold engine at idle). I think the log in your original post showed that it had occured 7 times before throwing the EMS light on.
> 
> Did you notice if the active fault (for the previous occurances) was still there after the light went out?
> 
> Anyway....well done and fingers crossed.


Thanks. I didn't notice the active fault. Yep I guess I'll have to wait. My light first came on after about 25mins driving through London on a very hot day. I noticed it in idle though.

Fingers crossed.


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## wlondoner

Rather than make a new post this is what my car is doing!
The RAC chap came and said the same thing but I need to get it sorted as the light is going to come back on again


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## gadgesxi

New_TT_Owner said:


> 4 - (I think this or the next is what did it but am not sure) Using VCDS I went to Engine --> Output --> scrolled down to EVAP and ran the test (just ignition on, not engine) and waited a minute for the test to complete. (for what it' worth, the valve clicked nicely. Well actually to begin with it was a bit hit and miss I think but by the end the valve was clicking regularly which is good I undertand)
> 
> 5 - After faffing around online doing forum searches again for a bit I came back out and used VCDS again, but this time I grew the balls to do the "Basic" testing. So for this I went to -->Engine --> Basics, then I put the engine on and let it idle.
> Then for the "Group" I typed in "070" which I understand is the EVAP readiness test or something. I clicked Go. It struggled for quite a while to be honest and the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" went from about 2% slowly creeping up to about 30% then the test stopped. The oxygen parameter was somehting like "-13%". Of course I have no idea what these mean. But it was at this point I was shocked to see the light had vanished. Naturally I thought this was just because I was connected up or something. For some reason I ran the test again anyway and lo and behold the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" faffed around for a bit then went up quite quickly to about 70% and the test ended.


Can this be done with VCDS-lite?


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## Bobo2211

New_TT_Owner said:


> Having spent the best part of the last few days researchig every forum I could and toing and froing to the car and havig sleepless nights (literally) I know how annoying it is to come across a thread which is unfinished because the original person sorted the problem and then didn't bother to update the thread for the benefit of others. So this is for anyone in the future who may find this helpful, as well as piloTT and anyone else interested.
> 
> It SEEMS as though my problem is sorted !! Not only do I not have the light anymore BUT MY CAR ALSO RUNS LIKE A DREAM WITH INCREDIBLE FUEL CONSUMPTION. !!!!!????????
> 
> Now I know full well, having read countless posts on this, that for some people the EMS light comes on but when drive the next morning or so it's disappeared. However mine was not obviously intermittent. It came on a week ago and it stayed on stubbornly, no matter what I did. Then today I tinkered about and.... IT'S GONE!!!!
> 
> So what did I do?
> 
> TBH I'm not entirely sure what did it but I'll talk you through exactly what I did in case one of these was the answer and it helps someone one day. (Read the OP to see exactly what my error was.)
> 
> 1 - I tried to remove the engine cover, but being a big girl's blouse I failed. Was too scared to crack it as force required is more than I'm comfortable with. However - in case it's relevant - I undid the thingymagig on the top left of the engine (air flow thingy?) and the inlet at the front right in order to remove the cover. I have no idea if this somehow helped. Doubt it, but as I said I'm goin to list everything. (I of course put it all back again)
> 
> 2 - Before working on the car today after reading suggestions on other forums about the petrol cap I thought I'd try opening it up and putting it back on REALLY tightly. I started the car but..... no joy. However, it's possible I guess that this would have had a delayed reaction...?
> 
> 3 - Reading about the possibiliy of the valve thing getting jammed I gave the N80 valve a couple of hard-ish knocks to try and unjam it. Who knows if this actually did anything.
> 
> 4 - (I think this or the next is what did it but am not sure) Using VCDS I went to Engine --> Output --> scrolled down to EVAP and ran the test (just ignition on, not engine) and waited a minute for the test to complete. (for what it' worth, the valve clicked nicely. Well actually to begin with it was a bit hit and miss I think but by the end the valve was clicking regularly which is good I undertand)
> 
> 5 - After faffing around online doing forum searches again for a bit I came back out and used VCDS again, but this time I grew the balls to do the "Basic" testing. So for this I went to -->Engine --> Basics, then I put the engine on and let it idle.
> Then for the "Group" I typed in "070" which I understand is the EVAP readiness test or something. I clicked Go. It struggled for quite a while to be honest and the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" went from about 2% slowly creeping up to about 30% then the test stopped. The oxygen parameter was somehting like "-13%". Of course I have no idea what these mean. But it was at this point I was shocked to see the light had vanished. Naturally I thought this was just because I was connected up or something. For some reason I ran the test again anyway and lo and behold the "Evap.emmission. Sol. Valve (Open)" faffed around for a bit then went up quite quickly to about 70% and the test ended.
> 
> NOTE: I a fully aware of re-setting the light on VCDS but I have always been very careful NEVER to accidentally reset the warning light as I do not wish to mask something that's there. So just in case anyone thinks this is what I accidentally did - no I did not.
> 
> The car has been fine since.
> 
> Shocked I decided I'd leave the engine alone and spent an hour or so washing it then mowing the lawn. I came back to it and.... STILL NO LIGHT! I then went out for a 45min drive really caning the car on all sorts of town roads/motorways/dual carriageways in every gear and driving in every way possible. The light remained off. I then came in and decided to go out again. Still, it's off.
> 
> And what's more, I have NEVER had such incredible fuel economy from it. Suddenly my granny driving economy went from 26 to 36mpg and my crazy drivin economy now seems to be 27.5 (from 20). Plus it just seems to drive lovely (or maybe that's all in my head).
> 
> I don't know how but something I did seems to have helped. My guess is either it was the cap was not on tightly enough (remember problems started a couple of hours after filling the tank to the brim (only second tank fill I've done since buying the car) OR the valve or something was jammed but knocking it physically or running these valve-intensive tests somehow just dislodged it and it's now fine.
> 
> piloTT, you may want to try any of the above in case it helps.
> 
> Who knows, it may just save you a load of bother!
> 
> Will update if the light comes on again bu I'm keeping my fingers crossed....


thanks for the detail post, i have similar problem and will try to solve it once I received the VCDS


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