# Reducing wheel spin



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Hi all,

I've covered over 500 miles in the car now and something I would like to try and improve is the steering feel and the wheel hop. 
There are obviously a lot of factors at play so I'm going to break them down.

Wheel size - I have the oem 17" wheels that weigh 12.3kg each. They are 8.5j wide and run the 245/45 r17 tyres. I am quite keen to change them for 18" or possibly 19" but I want to get the weight down to say 9kg per wheel.

Tyres - the car came with some new Nexen SU1 tyres, I'd like to know what the favoured tyre is for these cars. I've run Yokohama ad08r on previous cars, they have superb grip but have quite a firm sidewall. I've also run PS4 and Eagle F1 tyres which have been fine.

Anti lift kit - I've got a quote to have the whiteline version installed but I haven't seen many reviews for the TT. Any recommendations or reviews appreciated. I was wondering if you can just buy inserts for the oem setup?

Alignment - can these cars be adjusted for a favourable setup or do you need camber bolts and arms? What is a popular setting?

Springs, shocks and coil overs - I don't want to lower the car or change the current oem setup

Strut braces - I've used them in the past. Is an upper front strut brace a good choice for these cars? Do they help in any way?

Arbs - I changed the rear arb on my ep3 for a thicker JDM one and it made a big improvement, is there a go to rear arb to improve things (help with understeer)?

Bushes - if I don't change the arbs is it worth changing the arb bushes for polybushes?

Thanks.


----------



## carlsicesilverTT (Jun 30, 2016)

Decent tyres on 19" wheels will be a start and once you get used to car and use your head, wheel spin will be minimal.

Antilift kit will def help.

Your other questions hopefully someone can answer for you.


----------



## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

I wouldnt put nexen tyres on a wheel barrow so I would change those first, also is it not a quattro car? I dont understand people getting the FWD and then wanting to stop spinning when you could just buy a quattro?


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I didn't want the extra weight and servicing/issues with quattro. I've had many powerful fwd cars and this one is the hardest to get the power down.


----------



## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

When I had a 2.0 TFSI fwd coupe I found torque steer when accelerating hard quite disconcerting, even on dry surfaces.
On changing to a roadster, which is a quattro, that is eliminated completely.
Same tyres on both cars.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I appreciate all the input but this isn't a "you should have bought a quattro" thread  
I am looking at ways to improve the standard set up, I like a fwd car, it's lighter and 'challenging'. It's just a little more 'challenging' than I'd like. If I can do what's needed to reign it in a bit then job done.


----------



## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

You can eliminate it to an extent with geometry, but you'll also likely to be chasing your tail, suspension bushes probably all need revnewing as they are often the ultimate cause as too much flex so you'd probably have to upgrade, better tyres will help, maybe the struts are tired.... it'll be never ending.

It took me a year to sort out my 968 and a lot of cash!

I'd probably start with new tyres, the Nexen's aren't going to help!


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

They wouldn't be my choice of tyre but I'm looking for some lighter 18 wheels that I can put my tyre choice on, otherwise I'd be changing them now. That'll be step 1. I think the anti lift kit will be step 2 with a geo set up. I'm surprised more fwd drivers on here haven't done more regarding this, or they have but I can't find the details.


----------



## mk2506 (Feb 23, 2020)

You're going to spend a lot of cash for nothing mate, just stop booting it in 1st or learn to feather the clutch :?:


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I'm ok with 1st gear (32 years experience :wink: ). It's more the spin that can happen whilst rolling in 2nd or 3rd, usually when hitting a rough patch of road.


----------



## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

Flashy said:


> They wouldn't be my choice of tyre but I'm looking for some lighter 18 wheels that I can put my tyre choice on, otherwise I'd be changing them now. That'll be step 1. I think the anti lift kit will be step 2 with a geo set up. I'm surprised more fwd drivers on here haven't done more regarding this, or they have but I can't find the details.


Most will just drive as it is, think your plan seems sensible, but check bushes before geo.


----------



## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

Flashy said:


> They wouldn't be my choice of tyre but I'm looking for some lighter 18 wheels that I can put my tyre choice on, otherwise I'd be changing them now. That'll be step 1. I think the anti lift kit will be step 2 with a geo set up. I'm surprised more fwd drivers on here haven't done more regarding this, or they have but I can't find the details.


Its not about making it a you should have bought..... its facts.

In answer to this question im pretty sure no one would buy a FWD to then do any sort of performance driving in it? The above are standard things to do but just like every FWD they are never going to fix traction, you also have to remember you have bought a heavy FWD car that negates any weight saving you have from FWD to 4WD lol hence a pretty irrelevant reason for you going with FWD. If you wanted a performance FWD car then surely you want light and nimble and small, none of which a TT is, Civic type r, 182 cup, 205 gti, fiesta st, cupra r etc etc would be some of the usual choices.

I hope you get to where you want with the car, I fear it will be alot of money spent for nothing though, remember you dont put lipstick on a pig.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

If I'd wanted a 4wd car I would have bought a Golf R. I didn't want a point and press 4wd car so the facts are irrelevant to me. I'm interested in improving my own car. I don't know why that's so difficult for some people to understand.


----------



## carlsicesilverTT (Jun 30, 2016)

Flashy said:


> If I'd wanted a 4wd car I would have bought a Golf R. I didn't want a 4wd car that does all the work for you and takes the fun out of driving. I'm just trying to improve things, that's all. I'm not interested in 4wd facts, I'm interested in improving my own car. I don't know why that's so difficult for some people to understand.


I understand you.

In gear performance my car is quicker than a stock TTS as it is lighter.


----------



## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

I think there is a thread re tyres, standards on the TTS were i think Hankook and I have a pair on mine they replaced that are not bad.
One thing to note, Audi use a tyre with a stiffer sidewall you can use the none Audi tyre but DO NOT MIX THEM ON AXLES as they do not like it.



> Audi Genuine Tyres are specially developed and coordinated with your particular Audi model to ensure the highest standards of safety and comfort. There's a simple way to check your tyre is an Audi Genuine Tyre: the 'AO' stamp, which stands for 'Audi Original'. It means you can be confident these tyres have undergone over 50 separate performance tests and have been checked to much higher standards than statutory tyre regulations.


https://www.kwik-fit.com/blog/original-equipment-tyres

there was a longer thread somewehere.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=917857


----------



## mk2506 (Feb 23, 2020)

Flashy said:


> I'm ok with 1st gear (32 years experience :wink: ). It's more the spin that can happen whilst rolling in 2nd or 3rd, usually when hitting a rough patch of road.


Yeah I've the same front wheel drive but the spin in 2nd roll on is fairly minimal, I've never had it in 3rd on roll on though, you must have it mapped?


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Decent tyres - will make the biggest difference
Light wheels - will aid the tyres and as you've already said, wanting those too.
Super pro anit lift kit & front wishbone bushes - added caster and stiffness will help with wheel hop, so would assume wheel spin
Alignment - having the wheels pointing the correct way will also help more than you think
Dog mount insert - stop fair bit of engine slop
Engine mounts or inserts - Will stop all last remaining bits of engine slop


----------



## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

Taylortony said:


> I think there is a thread re tyres, standards on the TTS were I think Hankook and I have a pair on mine they replaced that are not bad.


There's no such thing as "standard" fit. The factory will fit tyres from a variety of different manufacturers.
My 2009 TTS certainly didn't come with H̶a̶n̶d̶c̶o̶c̶k̶s̶ Hankooks. Bridgestone Potenzas if memory serves right...
I expect the way it goes is that Audi play the manufacturers off against each other for the cheapest price they can get that month.


----------



## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

Hi Flashy,

Have you checked tyre pressures? Just because new tyres have been fitted don't assume the pressures are correct. Incorrectly inflated tyres can adversely effect traction and handling.

I would suggest changing your wheel & tyres before changing anything else, having a greater contact patch with decent rubber will always make the biggest performance gains. Can highly recommend 18"" Michelin Pilot Sport 4 I find them to be an excellent tyre.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Hi Jim, checked the pressures, running 32psi. On the hunt for some wheels now, will get tyres accordingly. I see the dog bone insert is another option, looks a quick job too.


----------



## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

A limited slip differential (LSD) would help prevent a single wheel from spinning:
https://whiteheadperformance.com/produc ... ssion-2wd/


----------



## bac (Jan 31, 2020)

Flashy said:


> Tyres - the car came with some new Nexen SU1 tyres, I'd like to know what the favoured tyre is for these cars. I've run Yokohama ad08r on previous cars, they have superb grip but have quite a firm sidewall. I've also run PS4 and Eagle F1 tyres which have been fine.


Never driven a FWD Audi but used to have a warmed up Megane Sport RS225 which suffered from the same issues. Looked at many options including an LSD, changes to suspension, etc. but in the end the best bang for buck was putting on the best tyres I could afford.

For the Renault this was Michelin Pilot Super Sports and although different tyres work better on different models, I don't think you'd go wrong with Michelins, maybe the Pilot Sport 4S which is touted as the successor to the Super Sports. The 4S is also noted for having a softer sidewall than many other high performance tyres, which although a potential drawback on the racetrack should help with loss of traction due to wheel hop and other issues.


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I see the dogbone insert is a popular mod, is there a preferred choice, one that won't cause too much vibration?


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Flashy said:


> I see the dogbone insert is a popular mod, is there a preferred choice, one that won't cause too much vibration?


Powerflex - red. It's the 'diesel' one. It's made from the lowest rating poly, so will give the least vibration.
Just check the type of bush you have in the car, age dictates the shape, not which model.


----------



## Jasonl (Mar 31, 2018)

Fitted black series powerflex in mine and engine mounts hardly any vibration as for wheelspin you will get used to the car and feather the throttle and i got goodyear f1 assymetrical 5s, on 19s and on stage 2 and it gets a bit hairy on times


----------



## carlsicesilverTT (Jun 30, 2016)

Jasonl said:


> Fitted black series powerflex in mine and engine mounts hardly any vibration as for wheelspin you will get used to the car and feather the throttle and i got goodyear f1 assymetrical 5s, on 19s and on stage 2 and it gets a bit hairy on times


How do you find the new Goodyear Eagle Assymetric 5's?

Anyone noticed improvement over the Eagle 3's?


----------



## Jasonl (Mar 31, 2018)

I think their brill and was using michy ps3 before that


----------



## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Flashy said:


> I see the dog bone insert is another option, looks a quick job too.


Just three bolts, but they are stretch bolts so you'll need to order replacements.
Be prepared for the main bolt (the one through the bushing) to be tight / corroded. People have been known to break this one off...

Also, If you decide to add an aluminum insert to the factory bushing instead of replacing the bushing itself, be aware that this can cause your dogbone to snap (resulting in possible damage as the engine moves) 034Motorsport created a second 'upper' piece to use in concert with their lower insert to prevent this.


----------

