# Battery problem



## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Not used my car for about 5 days, came to start today and completely flat, now I'm getting a loud clicking noise from by the battery, I have pulled the rear out and I can see a strip of fuses if I remove one of the 20amp fuses this clicking stops, any ideas ??, fuse circled in red.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

20 amp Fuse = Comfort system control unit or Power supply control unit.
Charge or (if damaged ) replace your battery. Clicking will likely go away once there is enough power to properly turn things on.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

If I open or close the doors with the fob the clicking stops for a while and then starts again, my point is the battery died and its only a year old, I had an issue where my passenger door would not open from the outside last week so I sprayed some lubricant into the handle gap and it was fine, now this.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

You can't effectively troubleshoot electrical problems with a low / dead battery.
Once you battery's output is restored you can then run diagnostic test scans and /or isolate subsystems to see if there are any unusual power draws.

The clicking is likely a byproduct of a low battery not the cause that drained your battery in the first place.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, As above, get battery fully charged or replace it. Leave on charge for a minimum of 12 hours/5 amps.
Hoggy.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, As above, get battery fully charged or replace it. Leave on charge for a minimum of 12 hours/5 amps.
> Hoggy.


Battery is on charge, just managed to start her and go for a little drive, my tpms warning came up but went a few seconds later, back on charge now, just need to find out why it went flat, second time this is in the past few weeks.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Battery is fully charged and it's still clicking by the battery, I expect it to be flat again by morning, any ideas guys ??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

legend_of_chaos said:


> Battery is fully charged and it's still clicking by the battery, I expect it to be flat again by morning, any ideas guys ??


Hi, 3 hrs isn't long enough to charge a flat battery. What are the volts at the battery when you attempt a start?
Hoggy.


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## red23 (Jan 24, 2015)

Maybe try unplug the convenience module to test if the problem still exists?

Might help narrow the problem down.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Hoggy said:


> legend_of_chaos said:
> 
> 
> > Battery is fully charged and it's still clicking by the battery, I expect it to be flat again by morning, any ideas guys ??
> ...


Battery charger states it's fully charged.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

red23 said:


> Maybe try unplug the convenience module to test if the problem still exists?
> 
> Might help narrow the problem down.


Do I unplug everything or just a certain plug ??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

legend_of_chaos said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > legend_of_chaos said:
> ...


Hi, Charging volts don't mean anything. High volts do not relate to capacity.
Hoggy.


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## red23 (Jan 24, 2015)

legend_of_chaos said:


> red23 said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe try unplug the convenience module to test if the problem still exists?
> ...


Could try one at a time, see if one of the leads being out fixes it so you could narrow down which circuit is causing the issue.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

red23 said:


> legend_of_chaos said:
> 
> 
> > red23 said:
> ...


I really think is has something to do with my passenger locking mechanism playing up last week, I'm gonna unplug the modules one by one and see if that works then unplug the door lock actuator.


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## bigchunk (Jun 6, 2019)

Get someone to crank the engine over and check what voltage at the battery is then, could be a bad battery.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Try cleaning the engine main ground cable. The Aluminum body ground is prone to corrosion and oxidation.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

FNChaos said:


> 20 amp Fuse = Comfort system control unit or Power supply control unit.
> Charge or (if damaged ) replace your battery. Clicking will likely go away once there is enough power to properly turn things on.


Bought brand new battery and still clicking, took the car to audi and their flummoxed


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Had my car scanned and it came back with

CENT. ELEC:
1 FAULTS FOUND
1. 01516- TERMINAL 30; LEFT 011- OPEN CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT

CENTRAL CONV:
2 FAULTS FOUND
1. 01134- ALARM HORN (H12) 004- NO SIGNAL/COMMUNICATION 
2. 03156 SENSOR FOR ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM (G578) 004- NO SIGNAL/COMMUNICATION

RADIO:
1 FAULT FOUND
1. 01044 CONTROL MODULE INCORRECTLY CODED.

There are more codes but these were due to me changing the hubs and driveshafts so speed sensors and brakes were removed so these codes are gone now, this is with my battery needing charging as the indicator on the battery was black which means needs charging, bought new battery but still getting the clicking.

Any thoughts guys??


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You can look up the fault codes on Ross Tech by running a Google search; "Ross Tech XXXXX" where XXXXX is the fault code. Then follow the link to their Wiki page as shown below.

For the 01134, odds are the alarm unit is toast. The little battery inside often fails and corrodes the PCB which then destroys the unit. Here's a link in the KB about it -

As for the OBD2 scans, you might want to pick up an OBD-dongle (e.g. OBDeleven, Carista, etc.) so you can run them yourself. It's really very simple to do and in conjunction with the list of fault codes from Ross Tech, can help point you in the right direction.

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Alarm Chirp and Fault Codes (H12)*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1836515


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> now I'm getting a loud clicking noise from by the battery,


Are you able to pinpoint where the clicking is coming from?

Sometimes low voltage can cause the contacts of mechanical relays to "chatter" between closed and open. Is there a relay near to where you think the clicking is coming from?


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

tttony said:


> > now I'm getting a loud clicking noise from by the battery,
> 
> 
> Are you able to pinpoint where the clicking is coming from?
> ...


The comfort control module area.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Ordered a new alarm siren, I'll try that first and then if it still makes the clicking sound I'll change the comfort control module, if I change the comfort control module to the same part number will it need any re-coding ??


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Before you start swapping out too many things, you should start by verify your voltage is okay. As mentioned previously, low voltage can cause problems in the system that might not otherwise be a problem.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Before you start swapping out too many things, you should start by verify your voltage is okay. As mentioned previously, low voltage can cause problems in the system that might not otherwise be a problem. A clicking sound, especially that of a relay, would indicate the voltage isn't enough to keep the solenoid in place, thus the chatter or clicking as it's trying to be where it should.


I fitted a brand new battery yesterday


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just to be clear, this is not my area of expertise, my analysis is simply based on what I understand from the wiring diagrams and related documentation. I stand to be corrected. 

So here's my take on this -

The 20A fuse you pulled from position No. 10. in Fuse Panel "F" as noted by *FNChaos*, supports the Comfort System Central Controle Module -J393-. It's close proximity to Fuse Panel "F" may explain why you heard the clicking stop when you pulled the fuse.

Looking at the second diagram, -J393- is linked directly to your alarm system so I'm guessing these faults are all related. Once you replace your Alarm -H12- this may sort the 01516 fault as well as 01134 and 03156. I'd probably just swap out -H12- first, before going after -J393-.

Note - the little battery inside -H12- only has an expected life of about 8-10 years, which is why I suspect all of this is related to -H12- and not -J393-.

The clicking would indicate the relay is actually working (not defective), it's just not working properly given the possibility of -H12- being defective. Also, if -J393- were defective, you'd probably see fault code 01330. The fact it was clicking may be the cause of your battery going flat since the relay was constantly pulling power. If you charge the battery and leave the 20-A fuse out of position No. 10, I suspect the battery won't go flat.

With regards to the 01044 fault, this may also be associated to the other three faults. Or is may be an old fault that was never cleared.

If you're planning on a DIY to replace -H12- , it might be worth getting yourself an OBDeleven so you can scan and clear the faults yourself.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

legend_of_chaos said:


> Ordered a new alarm siren, I'll try that first and then if it still makes the clicking sound I'll change the comfort control module, if I change the comfort control module to the same part number will it need any re-coding ??


The remote on the keys will require readaptation if you replace the comfort module.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Just to be clear, this is not my area of expertise, my analysis is simply based on what I understand from the wiring diagrams and related documentation. I stand to be corrected.
> 
> So here's my take on this -
> 
> ...


Thanks Swiss top man, do you recommend any brand of obd reader ??

Also if I unplug the 20A fuse will I still be able to use the car ??


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

I've got Carista which is fine for reading and resetting faults.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I have both the Ross-Tech VCDS and an OBDeleven. They both do a good job of reporting and clearing faults, but are completely different systems. Ross Tech is PC Windows based software, while OBDeleven is available for either Android or iOS and is cloud-based, meaning you have to have internet access to use it.

There are two good open box reviews in the Knowledge Base which you may find worth a read; they're both on the first page, about half way down.

If you have a Roadster, I recommend Ross-Tech VCDS since it can perform the Convertible Top Roof Flap Adaptation. At the moment, the OBD-dongles like OBDeleven or Carista don't have this feature.

As to unplugging the 20-A fuse - I can't say. But there's one way to find out!  Charge up your battery, and see if you can start it up, lock the doors, etc.

If you don't already have one, a CTEK charger is a good piece of kit and probably a good idea to have handy especially if you don't drive your TT that much. Since my Roadster spends most of it's life in the garage, I have one and it's super easy to use.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I have both the Ross-Tech VCDS and an OBDeleven. They both do a good job of reporting and clearing faults, but are completely different systems. Ross Tech is PC Windows based software, while OBDeleven is available for either Android or iOS and is cloud-based, meaning you have to have internet access to use it.
> 
> There are two good open box reviews in the Knowledge Base which you may find worth a read; they're both on the first page, about half way down.
> 
> ...


I'll get the OBDELEVEN, and I have a ctek charger and yes they are great chargers.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Does anyone know if the comfort control module is all solid sate electronics or if it contains one or more mechanical relays?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This sure looks like a Hella 12V 736 803-11 relay to me -

*VW Golf 5 J393 Central Convience Module Dismantle*


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> This sure looks like a Hella 12V 736 803-11 relay to me -
> 
> *VW Golf 5 J393 Central Convience Module Dismantle*


Probably whats clicking on mine, not sure which obd scanner to get now, read some bad things about OBDeleven, and you have to buy credits for it, does anybody have any experience with carista or any other scanner other than OBDeleven, cheers.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You don't HAVE to buy credits, you can get them free by watching advertisements, up to 5 per day. And you only need the credits for certain options like oil reset (10-credits) and One-Touch Apps. I've racked up 140-free credits which I doubt I'll ever use.

Seriously, do yourself a favor and read the OBDeleven review. 

*FAQ - OBDeleven Open Box Review + Q&A*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1926901


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You don't HAVE to buy credits, you can get them free by watching advertisements, up to 5 per day. And you only need the credits for certain options like oil reset (10-credits) and One-Touch Apps. I've racked up 140-free credits which I doubt I'll ever use.
> 
> Seriously, do yourself a favor and read the OBDeleven review.
> 
> ...


Thanks ever so much matey, I'll have a read later, I've pulled the 20amp fuse while I top up charge my new battery as I have the ctek indicator wired to my battery which shows the battery charge level and it was already flashing orange since I installed the new battery yesterday, I'll wait till tomorrow and I'll sit in the car with the fuse out and do some tests, see if it drives without it.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

I might buy VCDS, there is a guy near me selling the lead and updated software for a good price, just gonna need help with understanding it


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No worries! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

If you haven't already checked your instrument panel, you probably have a few lights on after the battery went flat. Not a big deal, just drive it a few minutes and the system will self correct and turn them all off.

.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> No worries! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> If you haven't already checked your instrument panel, you probably have a few lights on after the battery went flat. Not a big deal, just drive it a few minutes and the system will self correct and turn them all off.
> 
> .


Battery didn't go flat just topping the charge up, have you got VCDS, If so how do you rate it ??


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> This sure looks like a Hella 12V 736 803-11 relay to me -


OK, that relay is almost certainly the source of the clicking noise. There is something preventing its contacts latching closed properly and so they are chattering and causing the noise. The module needs fault finding and repairing or, probably more realistically, replacing.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *legend_of_chaos* - Yes, I have a Ross-Tech HEX V2 and have used it for several years. Honestly, it's a coin toss as they both have the advantages and disadvantages.

For a quick scan and diagnostic, the OBDeleven is pretty simple and easy to use and my "go to" when I want to run a quick scan. I set my iPhone to Hot Spot, then connect to the dongle via my Asus Android 7"-tablet. I've done it enough times that I can connect the OBDeleven dongle into the OBD port by just reaching under and plugging it in without even looking.

Now if I really want to do a deep dive diagnostic into the measuring blocks then I find the VCDS is the way to go. Granted sitting in a roadster with a Dell laptop isn't that convenient. But I grew up with a PC, so I find it more intuitive than swiping and tapping on a tablet. Plus, the VCDS is software is loaded on my PC, not cloud-based which means the data stays with me, and isn't off somewhere in the cloud.

For the money, the OBDeleven is a cheap way to get into scanning and fault clearing. If you really want to get into the nuts and bolts of VAG diagnostic testing, then the VCDS is the way to go and it has a much better support system. I've actually exchanged emails with Uwe Ross who founded Ross-Tech back in 1999 specifically for VAG software, so they've got a really good support team.

That's why none of the OBD dongles companies have much in the way of technical support, they're just "Johhny-come-lately" and don't really have any experience with VAG software or specific vehicle coding. They're all basically doing the same thing since OBD2 is relatively "open source". But when you try to pin them down, they really don't know how to diagnose a vehicle, and their websites lack any serious technical support.

Which is why I tell people once you have a fault code identified, run a Google search for Ross Tech so see what it means and to get some suggestions for how to resolve the problem. To my knowledge, none of the dongle companies (OBDeleven, Carista, etc.) have that level of technical support.

In the end, when comparing VCDS to OBD-dongle units, you get what you pay for.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *tttony* - I suspect that the relay in the -J393- is unable to communicate -H12- which may be why the relay is chattering. If -J393- was defective, it probably would have thrown a fault. If it were me, I'd pull -H12- out from inside the fender and open it up. Verify the condition of the NiMH battery and PCB.

Generally speaking, relays are pretty robust and not likely to just randomly fail. However that 10-year old NiMH battery inside -H12- will definitely fail and may have just done so. That's why I'd look there first.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Do we know for sure that that relay is part of the alarm system?

I was not suspecting that the relay itself is faulty, but rather that the circuitry within the module that controls it is.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *tttony* According to his scan, he's got this fault code for Address 09 Cent Elect.

- CENT. ELEC:
1 FAULTS FOUND
1. *01516*- TERMINAL 30; LEFT 011- OPEN CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT

01516 is a fault code for -J519-.

For Address 46-Central Conv. (-J393-) I would expect would fault code 01330 which didn't show up. This is why I don't think -J393- is defective. The fact the relay inside is clicking would indicate it is getting power, but for whatever reason, this didn't trigger a fault. Hummm....???

According to the schematic -H12- is connect to T6g/6, 6-pin (Connector C) in -J393-. Unfortunately, without a schematic or photo of the -J393- for the Mk2 8J TT (P/N 8J0 959 433) I don't think we can assume the Relay connects to this same position.

At least from the diagram in SSP382, we can see the directly link between -J393-, -G578- and -H12-.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Don't know if it's relevant but I pulled the 20amp fuse out last night battery is still good but boot won't open with fob or button in car, had to climb through the back and put the fuse back in for it to work.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yes, that makes sense. As noted in the picture from the SSP, it's the central locking master. Basically -J393- is connected to everything that might trigger the alarm; interior lights, door locks, trunk light, level sensors, etc. I suspect this is why Wolvez made the comment if you replace it, you have to recode the keys.

Questions -

Can you manually lock/unlock the driver's door and start the car?
Is the relay still clicking?


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Yes, that makes sense. As noted in the picture from the SSP, it's the central locking master. Basically -J393- is connected to everything that might trigger the alarm; interior lights, door locks, trunk light, level sensors, etc. I suspect this is why Wolvez made the comment if you replace it, you have to recode the keys.
> 
> Questions -
> 
> ...


If I pull the fuse I can open front doors and start the car but the boot or petrol cap won't open, put fuse back in and boot opens and so does petrol cap.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Interesting. Well, at least you can use the car with the fuse out if you need to. Plus, with it out, the battery is less likely to go flat.  Would be worth putting a meter on it to check the voltage, then check it again tomorrow and make sure it's not dropping on you.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

I'm gonna order carista, seen some good reviews and I can use it on multiple cars as well.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Interesting. Well, at least you can use the car with the fuse out if you need to. Plus, with it out, the battery is less likely to go flat.  Would be worth putting a meter on it to check the voltage, then check it again tomorrow and make sure it's not dropping on you.


Don't have a meter, need to get one I suppose, just ordered carista so should have it this week.


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## hagakurejunkie (Aug 17, 2018)

legend_of_chaos said:


> tttony said:
> 
> 
> > > now I'm getting a loud clicking noise from by the battery,
> ...


That clicking is you radio amplifier, your amplifier is located in the comfort control module area. My car does the same thing. Continues to click when car isn't running.

Mine has been doing it for years, it's not your amp draw issue.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Get a odbeleven more dedicated to vag fault codes... I have had a few equivalents because I am not paying for a vagcom.. And the odbeleven is the best for vag by far.... Don't buy a cheap imitation


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

legend_of_chaos said:


> I'm gonna order carista, seen some good reviews and I can use it on multiple cars as well.


Yeah there is a reason for that, just like the torque app, generic.... My brother has a dream science kit for his Ford st, won't work on any other ford's because its specific... And that's what you need unless you buy a vagcom


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

C00P5TT5 said:


> legend_of_chaos said:
> 
> 
> > I'm gonna order carista, seen some good reviews and I can use it on multiple cars as well.
> ...


It's ordered now, it will do for now, not had anybody else mention amplifier, the clicking is a relay and it's really loud, possibly the alarm siren or interior sensor for alarm are to blame, if not the CCM will be changed, battery has been fine since I pulled the 20amp fuse which is for the CCM, if your saying amplifier do you mean the bose amp, if so its on the other side of the boot mate, CCM is by the battery.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Not if its any help at all but I don't have the bose system, but I did have a flat battery.

I also had the rear seats down when I fitted the new battery. I took it for a run and could hear a constant clicking in the back. At first I thought it was a plastic bag flappy in the wind, so I removed them, after a good 30 minute run it stopped.

Sounds to me like a faulty relay in the boot fuse box or a bad battery... Wtw mine doesn't have the battery module that some think needs reprogramming when you change the battery.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

PROBLEM SORTED 

Changed the alarm siren inside driver side wing and all is sorted, scanned before with carista and had a 01134 Alarm Horn (H12) error also 00926 Terminal error and a 03156 sensor for warning system theft error, scanned now all errors gone and clicking in boot has stopped, thanks swissjet for your help, much appreciated.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Was this a DIY or workshop repair?

A "How To" with pics would have been a nice addition to the forum KB!


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Did it myself Swiss, Fairly easy, remove driver side from wheel, remove arch liner, remove plastic bung on top of wing under the bonnet, undo 13mm bolt, slide horn cradle out, unplug old horn, replace with new horn and reverse order of dismantle, have just opened the old horn and its badly corroded by the battery, I'll be phoning my audi specialist on Monday and telling them they need new technicians as they said it was definitely the battery.


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Pic included


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

Another pic


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## legend_of_chaos (Sep 18, 2017)

another


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

legend_of_chaos said:


> I'll be phoning my audi specialist on Monday and telling them they need new technicians as they said it was definitely the battery.


Well done! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Well, technically he was half right!  But yeah, seems Audi needs to teach their technicians what a fault codes mean! :roll:

Fair enough, the DIY seems pretty straight forward then.

That's amazing how those old NiMH batteries do such a great job of wiping out the entire alarm siren. As always, the cheapest part takes out the more expensive ones every time!


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## sheryllee (Apr 30, 2020)

loud click may indicate that the starter relay or starter motor may not be engaging with the engine.


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