# Just Had New Clutch Fitted - Was I ripped off ?



## tracertong (May 24, 2010)

Hi guys

i own a 2001 audt tt 1.8 quatro

Just had the following done at a local garage , can you tell me what you think of their prices . Thanks.

Clutch kit = £112
Concentrenic Slave Cylinder = £36.40
Inner cv boot kits = £23.74
New Suspension Wishboness £79.50
Exhaust downpipe gasket £3.16

and the funny part

labour = £450

Coming in at a grand total , including vat at £949.45 :roll:

Opinions please chaps and what should i do if rthey have taken the piss


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## Guest (Jun 13, 2010)

is it not a bit late now...? :?

Doesn't seem that bad as it seems you've had the suspension wishbones and cv boots replaced too?


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## goose_moose (Feb 20, 2010)

Too late if you have paid up already bud!

Mr Clutch is quoting £399 for a new and fitted TT clutch.

Recommended by Honest John in the Telegraph.


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## tracertong (May 24, 2010)

Well thats a relief. Yes it is a bit late but they are fitting a new cambelt and doing a full service for me if the price is not too obscene. But then 400 pounds at mr clutch makes me want to puke !


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## S16LAD (Apr 9, 2010)

Audi stealers quoted me about £1400, so I'd say you did ok. Luckily the warranty covered mine in the end...


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## duncs09 (Apr 28, 2009)

tracertong said:


> Well thats a relief. Yes it is a bit late but they are fitting a new cambelt and doing a full service for me if the price is not too obscene. But then 400 pounds at mr clutch makes me want to puke !


Don't worry, that doesn't include the cv's and wishbones so pretty sure you got an ok deal.

So long as it is a good garage who know what they are doing then it is worthwhile to pay that tad bit extra.

When they summarise your cambelt etc let me know what they say they are changing. Will instantly know from that if they know what they are doing if they cover all the parts as they should.


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

£112 clutch? Thatsa bargin! Presume you still have old flywheel?


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## stevebeechTA (May 16, 2009)

Does not seam like it looks like a fantastic price 

I thought a new clutch was around the £800 mark. I am sure charlie paid around the 500-600 mark for his. Does any one know why there is such a big diff in prices or is it a case of named or non named components. or have other peeps replaced other components whilst it was striped out :?

cheers steve


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

I got mine done for the following cost

£100 - Brand new Audi Fly (Yes they should be £300+)
£250 ish ( Jabba sport clutch kit - Cheapest place I found was jabba) These are Audi LUK items complete with Slave cylinder and bearing seal

Labout can be anywhere between £150-450


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## LuTTon (Jul 18, 2008)

Wouldn't touch my local Mr.Clutch when they didn't fit my mates driveshafts properly and they fell out 200 miles later  
It could of caused a serious accident if he'd been travelling faster at the time and caused major damage to the car :?

£399 is probably for fwd TT's as they are much less work I'd imagine.

Nick


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## Charlie (Dec 15, 2006)

stevebeechTA said:


> Does not seam like it looks like a fantastic price
> 
> I thought a new clutch was around the £800 mark. I am sure charlie paid around the 500-600 mark for his. Does any one know why there is such a big diff in prices or is it a case of named or non named components. or have other peeps replaced other components whilst it was striped out :?
> 
> cheers steve


I paid about £650 for mine all inclusive - that included a new DMF(which would normally account for about £300) clutch kit, slave and master cylinder

The "book" says about 7 hours for a TT quattro and it took them a little less, although my labour rate was £200 

Charlie


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

I'm not sure where these prices come from, but I've paid EUR 900 for 4 piece kit + bolts at dealer. These are LUK pressure plate and flywheel, Sachs clutch and metal slave cylinder. Surely it would take much less time at the garage having proper lifting tools, etc, but took me 18 (not straight though) hours to do myself, armed with jacks mostly  Of which 6 I've spent on removal/installation of the gearbox itself only as it was pretty difficult to get into place, mostly because of the transfer box and it's weight... It weights nearly same as decent auto box!

Most well respected garages asked another 500-700 EUR for the labor only. Couldn't afford paying this money...

It has taken a way too long for me, but I'm quite suspicious about 7 hour job - it's impossible if to tighten a whole pile of bolts and nuts to specs. I bet garage used their air impact wrench for everything.


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## Parker. (Jan 12, 2007)

Nordic - I'll be undertaking a clutch replacement on mine soon. Did you have lifting gear or did you take the front end off and take the engine out that way? Anything else I should be looking out for?


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## goose_moose (Feb 20, 2010)

This is the quite I got. It is for a 225 Quattro.

Thank you for your enquiry and please find details of your quote below:
Your vehicle details:
Manufacturer: Audi
Model: TT
Engine Size: 1.8
Year: 2001
Description: TT 1.8 225 PS Quattro
Your clutch replacement will cost £399.99. This includes:
•	Parts
•	Labour
•	VAT
•	2 Year or 20,000 mile nationwide warranty
•	Free clutch check to diagnose fault


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

goose_moose said:


> This is the quite I got. It is for a 225 Quattro.
> 
> Thank you for your enquiry and please find details of your quote below:
> Your vehicle details:
> ...


That will be without the DMF then.


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## christurbo (Mar 6, 2005)

I paid £35 for my CV boot parts and labour.


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## goose_moose (Feb 20, 2010)

I'm hoping my DMF is fine !! :?


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Parker. said:


> Nordic - I'll be undertaking a clutch replacement on mine soon. Did you have lifting gear or did you take the front end off and take the engine out that way? Anything else I should be looking out for?


Neither of these, actually. I had jacks only, two of them, one is usuall and another one hydraulic one with roller feet. I'm not sure if I can recomment going my way as it was painful to remove and install the gerbox back, it's around 70kg - I'm just kinda masochist somewhat going the route using jacks. But can certainly tell briefly the whole procedure.

On top:
- remove air filter and battery case completely;
- disconect gearbox shift linkages and shifter mechanism;
- remove starter (makes GB lighter and starter can be inspected, cleaned and lubed, will work as new!);
- disconnect hydraulic clutch hose from GB slave cyl and plug it with something as it will annoyingly drip on your face under the car 
- remove all bolts accessible from top, except one at the highest point, just so the GB doesn't fall off, it goes last. Bolt near the turbo has long extension, only spark plug socket can properly sit on it;

Bottom:
- remove both wheels;
- undo dog bone engine mount (small bolts 1st);
- disconnect driveshafts (need multispline torx);
- undo steering rack from subframe (4 bolts);
- undo exhaust mount from subframe (2 bolts);
- undo another steering pipe from the subframe (1 nut);
- support the subframe and undo 4 subframe bolts;
- lower the subframe on jack and push it as much as possible further under the car;
- mark the prop shaft position and disconnect (need multispline socket) and push it towards rear carefully - it has a rubber seal right in the middle, important to not to damage the seal.
- undo the transfer box bracket (looks like a horse shoe, on the other side of the engine);
- remove the boost pipe from beneath (the one which connects both intercoolers), not sure, but possibly not required, but I wanted all the space available;
- undo the plastic cover from gearbox side;
- undo steering rack zigzagy pipe from the gearbox (3 places, push it higher on the top of the gearbox);

Top:
- undo the gearbox mount and lower the engine on some beforehand prepared support in such a way, that gearbox can slide under the chassis frame;

Bottom:
- support the gearbox with some jack (I've used this hydraulic jack with wheels, so it can be moved when loaded);
- undo remaining gearbox bolts from beneath, there is one on the opposite side near transfer case;
- pull the GB off the engine (this took me 3 hours, engine ear blocks the transfer case, possibly raising the transfer case side a bit with another jack could help);
- lower it and pull out...

Quite sure something is missed here, but it's more or less the plan. Can't imagine how this can be done in less than 7 hours, moreover everything needs to be put back and tightened to specs.

There may be alternative ways of doing this though, I guess...

Can provide more details on each step, if required, feel free to ask 

Hope this helps.
Art


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## merlie (Jan 19, 2010)

just had the clutch pedal go ....

local trusted garage suggest putting a whole kit in there .... £380 ... ttr 225

is there anything else they should be doing whilst they are there ?


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## jimborae (Nov 29, 2010)

Charlie said:


> stevebeechTA said:
> 
> 
> > Does not seam like it looks like a fantastic price
> ...


Hi Charlie,

Where did you get your clutch done as a matter of interest??? Need my clutch replaced & been told that if the DMF has gone then it will another £750 on top of the £750 they want doing the clutch. And no this isn't at the stealers!! 

Cheers

J


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## Fictorious (Sep 15, 2009)

Tell him to stick that right up his arse mate. DMF are about £350-450 depending on where you get them from, and actually replacing it once you get to the clutch isn't really much extra work so I doubt anywhere decent would charge more than about £25 extra labour for it, if any.


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## TT Boycie (Sep 27, 2009)

I paid £650 all in the same as Charlie. Luk clutch, DMF and slave cylinder. Oh and 4 wheel alignment too.
I still can't believe that mr clutch quoted £399 without the dmf for a fellow forum member, but quoted me £1281 Inc dmf!!!!


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## Adam-tt (Apr 3, 2010)

DMF is just under £250 from http://www.buypartsby.co.uk


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## spliff10 (Sep 30, 2010)

Audi charge £849 for just the clutch as part of their special pricing scheme, around £1500 for clutch and DMF etc. Chances are when they have your car in bits you will be told you also need a DMF. I checked a few specialists in my area and was quoted £650-800 for just the clutch and slave cylinder plus about another £400 for the DMF. There is apparently 9 hours worth of labour in this with parts inc DMF coming to around the £600 mark with vat. DMF's do vary in price depending on chassis number. As far as Mr clutch is concerned, yes the web price looks good but when you phone up they tell you that it is just the clutch not the cylinders or DMF. For me a specialist was the way to go. So in answer to your question, no, with everything you got done on top, sounds fair.


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## KammyTT (Jun 28, 2006)

goose_moose said:


> Too late if you have paid up already bud!
> 
> Mr Clutch is quoting £399 for a new and fitted TT clutch.
> 
> Recommended by Honest John in the Telegraph.


Was that for a quattro


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

Hi folks,

Conscious that this thread is a bit old but would like to get any input/advice before I do anything. Here's my situation:

I have a 04 TTC 1.8 manual Quattro (180 bhp) and I get a whining noise when changing from 2nd to 3rd and to 4th. Also when decelerating/slowing down. No noise on acceleration and from 1st to 2nd, 4th to 5th and 6th. I've also noticed that when it's cold/in the morning the noise is more audible but in the afternoon when it has warmed up a bit there is very little noise.

I tested it with a friend last week and we heard the noise also out of gear. He suggested that it might be the transfer box. I just booked it in for a full service today at the Audi Service Center and requested them to do the Haldex oil and filter + the gearbox oil and help diagnose the issue. Apparently one of the mechanics told the service advisor that this might not fix the issue and that there may be an issue with the gearbox which might need to be stripped. I really don't want to get into opening the gearbox as I know this will cost me a fortune with them. They've already taken €1400 from me for other stuff they've found with the car.

I just picked up the car from Audi Center and unfortunately the oil changes did not solve the issue. I manage to speak to the mechanic and he said it's most likely that a bearing has collapsed in the gearbox and will need to be opened and have a look but this will cost a fortune. Might be better off getting a second hand one and put it in. So, with the help of a friend I managed to find one with Traynors in N.I for €400.

This morning I went to talk to the Audi mechanic again at the stealer and asked him as I'm getting the gearbox done would it be a good idea to have a look at the clutch as well and he strongly recommended this.

After exchanging some posts on the forum here some members suggested the look at the following and possibly get them replaced:

1. Clutch friction plate
2. Release bearing
3. Pressure Plate (is this the same as no. 1)
4. Fly wheel
5. Clutch slave cylinder which is also situated within the clutch case/bell housing.

Am not looking for anything fancy but something for everyday road use, reliable and that will last for a while.

What would be your recommendations as far as the above parts are concerned and where would be the best place to source them from.

I had a look at the following but not sure which one to go for to cover all the parts:

http://www.irishautoparts.ie/Audi-TT-1. ... Parts.aspx 
http://www.micksgarage.ie/proddetails.a ... 6&pk=E4CA5

Am happy to get them from UK as well if they are better quality/price.

Really appreciate any advice here folks. This issue is such a pain. Bought the car only a month ago from a private seller and he's not willing to take/share repsonsibility. So, ending up with all the costs myself. I guess I just have to do these things, move on and enjoy the car.

Please please please help.

cheers


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## New2AudiTT (May 7, 2011)

nordic said:


> I'm not sure where these prices come from, but I've paid EUR 900 for 4 piece kit + bolts at dealer. These are LUK pressure plate and flywheel, Sachs clutch and metal slave cylinder. Surely it would take much less time at the garage having proper lifting tools, etc, but took me 18 (not straight though) hours to do myself, armed with jacks mostly  Of which 6 I've spent on removal/installation of the gearbox itself only as it was pretty difficult to get into place, mostly because of the transfer box and it's weight... It weights nearly same as decent auto box!
> 
> Most well respected garages asked another 500-700 EUR for the labor only. Couldn't afford paying this money...
> 
> It has taken a way too long for me, but I'm quite suspicious about 7 hour job - it's impossible if to tighten a whole pile of bolts and nuts to specs. I bet garage used their air impact wrench for everything.


Hi Nordic,

Hope this finds you well mate. where did you get the parts. Here's my situation:

I have a 04 TTC 1.8 manual Quattro (180 bhp) and I get a whining noise when changing from 2nd to 3rd and to 4th. Also when decelerating/slowing down. No noise on acceleration and from 1st to 2nd, 4th to 5th and 6th. I've also noticed that when it's cold/in the morning the noise is more audible but in the afternoon when it has warmed up a bit there is very little noise.

I tested it with a friend last week and we heard the noise also out of gear. He suggested that it might be the transfer box. I just booked it in for a full service today at the Audi Service Center and requested them to do the Haldex oil and filter + the gearbox oil and help diagnose the issue. Apparently one of the mechanics told the service advisor that this might not fix the issue and that there may be an issue with the gearbox which might need to be stripped. I really don't want to get into opening the gearbox as I know this will cost me a fortune with them. They've already taken €1400 from me for other stuff they've found with the car.

I just picked up the car from Audi Center and unfortunately the oil changes did not solve the issue. I manage to speak to the mechanic and he said it's most likely that a bearing has collapsed in the gearbox and will need to be opened and have a look but this will cost a fortune. Might be better off getting a second hand one and put it in. So, with the help of a friend I managed to find one with Traynors in N.I for €400.

This morning I went to talk to the Audi mechanic again at the stealer and asked him as I'm getting the gearbox done would it be a good idea to have a look at the clutch as well and he strongly recommended this.

After exchanging some posts on the forum here some members suggested the look at the following and possibly get them replaced:

1. Clutch friction plate
2. Release bearing
3. Pressure Plate (is this the same as no. 1)
4. Fly wheel
5. Clutch slave cylinder which is also situated within the clutch case/bell housing.

Am not looking for anything fancy but something for everyday road use, reliable and that will last for a while.

What would be your recommendations as far as the above parts are concerned and where would be the best place to source them from. 
Cheers


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## fozzie34 (Jan 18, 2011)

Had mine done on Monday. 4 Rings did mine and a good job they did too. Cost was around £700 all in using Audi parts which included all of the stretch bolts and slave cylinder/thrust bearing. So the price you paid wasn't far off bearing in mind the other work you had done as well


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## mkay99 (Feb 5, 2009)

Depends who you go to I suppose. I had mine done on my previous TT from a good independent garage, not audi specialists but I know them personally and their quality of work is good, so just a clutch job parts (Luk) and labour cost £250, not including the DMF because that was still in good condition.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

T3RBO said:


> That will be without the DMF then.


£450 just for the Dual mass flywheel... but hey do it without.... you can always get the clutch done again in 20k when the flywheels is clunking with plenty of play....

You ask anyone who knows these cars... and how to work on them.... you need to change the flywheel... even if you put a solid one in (be prepared for alot of gearbox noise) is better than not putting on in..


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