# Clutch Problems - Sudden Depressurisation !!



## The Rainman (Jun 1, 2008)

Whilst out for a run today, pulling away from a junction my clutch pedal lost all pressure and fell to the floor, all in all there was about 1 or 2 inches of play in it. I stopped the car switched off, started up again with clutch depressed and started ok but could not select gear, called roadside rescue who called me back and asked me to manually raise the clutch pedal back up to its original position, I did and the car was ok from then. The mechanic told me it is a common problem with the Mk2 TTs and involves contacting the dealer and having either the master or slave cylinder replaced because this will continue to happen intermittently. He could offer no reason for the sudden depressurisation of clutch system but as I say if you raise it back to its original position for some reson the clutch system repressurises, just thought I would let fellow members aware of this problem. According the the audi mechanic he said my audi dealer (Edinburgh) are aware of this problem as he has responded to a few other TTs with same problems but as of yet do not know if it has reached recall proportions, will find out more tomorrow when I phone them. Anyone else suffered the same fate ??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Fairly common prob. on Mk1 as well caused by poor design of master cylinder, bleed hole gets covered by piston seal. So perhaps same design/prob. Happened to my Mk1 6 years ago, never happened again. Some forum members have replaced OEM master cylinder with "ATE" make.
H.


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## FinFerNan (Feb 28, 2007)

Rainman

I was not aware of this. Thanks for the heads up mate [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## trev (Aug 5, 2005)

this happened to a mates Mk1, thought at first it was the dreaded pedal weld snapping but after pulling the pedal up work fine and never had any problem's with it again :? thats a day off work for you, the dockyard will come to a close if your off :lol:


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## dochniak (Oct 8, 2008)

I had the same symptoms just before Christmas. I bled the brake fluid resevoir first as this system is used for the hydraulics with the master cylinder. This improved the pedal for a small amount of time, and I thought it had fixed the fault, but before long it was back to no resistance in the pedal. I then changed the clutch master cylinder as this is the far cheaper and easier option. It was marginally better, but the pedal was still bad. I therefore had no choice but to replace the clutch slave cylinder which is located inside the gearbox. As you have to drop all the drive gear as it is 4wd, it is hugely labour intensive (6-8 hrs). Whilst you have the gearbox stripped, it makes sense to replace the clutch kit. Unfortunately, something had been flying around in the gearbox and had damaged the dual mass flywheel. This had excessive play in it and was damaged. I needed to replace that as well. It is annoying that you cannot really identify which component has failed, it is a case of changing to eliminate. I did not have any signs of fluid leak from the gearbox indicating it was the slave. Good luck.


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## The Rainman (Jun 1, 2008)

Update
Contacted Edinburgh Audi, no problem bring the car in (bear in mind its all back to normal after lifting the cluth pedal) car road tested no faults found, system bled. They will send diss report to Audi UK and get back to me within a couple of days with their recommendations. They suggested no point chaging master cylinder incase its something else (fair point) meanwhile Im advised if it happens again and you are stranded do not touch the clutch pedal, call out roadside rescue, do not let the mechanic repair it (raise clutch pedal) but ask him to tow me to Edinburgh Audi, where the master tech will instantaneously diagnose fault, and arrange repair, I need to remember that next time Im down a country lane somewhere in the middle of nowhere (not that I frequent country lanes lol) and I know I can get it going again by just bringing the cluth pedal back up, I can see the for sale sign going on it quite soon.


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## The Rainman (Jun 1, 2008)

dochniak said:


> I had the same symptoms just before Christmas. I bled the brake fluid resevoir first as this system is used for the hydraulics with the master cylinder. This improved the pedal for a small amount of time, and I thought it had fixed the fault, but before long it was back to no resistance in the pedal. I then changed the clutch master cylinder as this is the far cheaper and easier option. It was marginally better, but the pedal was still bad. I therefore had no choice but to replace the clutch slave cylinder which is located inside the gearbox. As you have to drop all the drive gear as it is 4wd, it is hugely labour intensive (6-8 hrs). Whilst you have the gearbox stripped, it makes sense to replace the clutch kit. Unfortunately, something had been flying around in the gearbox and had damaged the dual mass flywheel. This had excessive play in it and was damaged. I needed to replace that as well. It is annoying that you cannot really identify which component has failed, it is a case of changing to eliminate. I did not have any signs of fluid leak from the gearbox indicating it was the slave. Good luck.


Thanks for the info dochniak, your are right the tech did say you dont want to be changing the slave cylinder as it is in the gearbox, but I just want my car fixed no matter what is wrong with it. I presume your car was outwith the warranty period as costs should be covered under warranty?


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## Dallan2 (Sep 5, 2008)

Had same problem with my 2003 S3 just over a year ago... lift the pedal and all would be fine till it would suddenly fail again. Problem finally rectified with new clutch master cylinder.

The part was not too expensive (£50.00 or so).... but the labour charge form Audi dealer was eyewatering - at around £250.00
Common problem with the TT Mk 1, I was told at the time - and with some S3's... just my luck.

D.


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## The Rainman (Jun 1, 2008)

Update
Edinburgh Audi have feedback from Audi UK who ACCEPT there is a problem with the master cylinders on the Mk2 TTs which causes sudden "depressurisation" of the clutch system and have authorised the car to be booked in and have new master cylinder fitted along with bleeding of system all under warranty. Wiil let you know how I get on, just a warning to other Mk2 owners out there, it this happens to you I would get roadside rescue not to lift the clutch back up and rectify the fault short term but to leave the car in its fault "state" and ask for the car to be transported to your dealer who will supply you with a courtesy car and diagnose the fault instantaneously (most likely the master cylinder) and carry out the necessary repair under warranty.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Same prob as Mk 1 then, but didn't occur so quickly in it's life. If out of warranty replace master cylinder with "ATE" brand. My 1st reply was correct then..Hope snapping clutch pedal will not be the same on Mk2.  
*Audi Prestige car ? * :? 
H.


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## Wallsendmag (Feb 12, 2004)

Glad I don't have a clutch pedal then.


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## lemans (Sep 24, 2013)

This has happened on my 61 plate TTS, 3 weeks before the warranty expires as I drove the car to Audi for an MOT !!!

Audi want the car for 3 days to remove the gearbox. They won't comment on the known slave cylinder issue but this must be what they think the problem is in my opinion.

I was warned that clutch wear and tear might not be covered by warranty and Audi factory must authorise a strip down.

No way I will pay for labour costs. Car has only done 28600 miles

You would think that late build cars like mine would have a modified system if the fault is known, or am I expecting too much!!


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## Denty (Feb 14, 2014)

Happened on old my 09 S3 around 3 / 4 times.... same engine, same clutch system

It's very hard to bleed the clutch system on these cars correctly - most garages use a power bleeder (even main dealers...!) but it's not suitable for the 2.0 tfsi clutch hydraulic system - its needs to be gravity bled from the highest point on the system (nipple bleed block on front of engine)

If its power bled you never get all the air out and you will experience the old variable clutch biting point syndrome, which i hated!!

Hope that helps
8)


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## lemans (Sep 24, 2013)

Thanks Denty
I will talk to Audi about bleeding the system


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## lemans (Sep 24, 2013)

After issues reported in my earlier posting regarding my clutch pedal sticking, the clutch failed completely yesterday (unable to select any gear) and Audi Recovery are taking the car away for slave cylinder repair under warranty (will take 3 days).

Be warned if the cluth pedal starts to stick down and the engagement point is in the carpet don't be tempted to use the car. It will let you down !!

A replacement car will be provided by Audi but for just 48hrs. Hope it is an R8!


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## lemans (Sep 24, 2013)

Just got TTS back today after 6 days over Bank Holiday.
The problem was a leaking slave cylinder which had contaminated the clutch plate. Sinclair Audi replaced the lot under warranty. So supportive.
Didn't get the R8 though as a replacement car. A3 1.8TFSi manual not a bad car !!


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## paul4281 (Jan 25, 2010)

That's a good result!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, without any adverts.....


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

Mk1 225 bam Audi tt
Had clutch replaced 
I've now changed my master cylinder 4 or 5 times in the last mast it keeps failing, anyone help? Could it be that circle thing on the clutch line ?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

T33dhy said:


> Mk1 225 bam Audi tt
> Had clutch replaced
> I've now changed my master cylinder 4 or 5 times in the last mast it keeps failing, anyone help? Could it be that circle thing on the clutch line ?


Hi, The clutch pedal prob is quite common on the Mk1 & other VAG cars of that era. No return spring doesn't help.
Was it leaking or just failing to return fully. Was the slave replaced with the clutch change?
The bleed nipple assembly has been known to suck in air on the upward stroke but not leak fluid. 
There was mod lately that moves the M/C back a few mm, successful or not I don't know. I have a search for it.
*edit* http://nothingleavesstock.com/online-st ... t=13912883
Hoggy


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

Hi Hoggy
Yes clutch and slave was changed, I drove about 40 miles ish and the pedal gets stiff again and master cylinder behind the pedal fails and I have to pull it back up but theres no pressure left, as soon as I touch the pedal it sinks straight to the floor, seems like a pressure issue some where?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Mine does it now & again but very rarely thank goodness & has done for the last 18 years pull it up with my toe & operation is perfect again. My TT gets little use so I blame that.
In the early years of the MK1 the OEM M/C was replaced with an ATE brand, but they don't appear to be avail any more.
Hoggy.


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

That's the thing, as soon as it happens theres fluid coming out of the master cylinder? So it doesn't work at all


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

Could it be a faulty ckutch/slave inside the box?


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

To much pressure which pops the master cylinder?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

T33dhy said:


> To much pressure which pops the master cylinder?


Hi, That's different, never heard of that problem before & I've been here for 18+years. 
Sounds more like a mechanical problem with the clutch :? 
Hoggy.


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## T33dhy (May 20, 2019)

So new clutch slave and flywheel and the bleed nipple valve then?? 
What about the clutch line with that silver circle thing on it??


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## micky291 (Apr 18, 2017)

T33dhy said:


> So new clutch slave and flywheel and the bleed nipple valve then??
> What about the clutch line with that silver circle thing on it??


The circle part on the clutch hardline is an accumulator, I'm not 100% sure of the effect on pedal feel if removed but id assume it would feel firmer, there are braided lines available for the 02M gearboxes for about £75 which would remove it.

About a year ago now my MK1 TT had the common fault where the clutch pedal fell to the floor and wouldn't operate the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder with a Sachs 1J2 721 388 C because as Hoggy said the ATE model variant seems to be harder to get hold of. I have now found one place online selling the ATE variant for about £60 but I'm unsure if its still the same upgraded version that people previously used as a better alternative to the OEM part.

Since changing the master cylinder I always felt like something was still wrong, although the clutch worked and I never had the issue of the pedal not returning the pedal was always very hard to press towards the bottom and would hurt to hold in for any amount of time, there was also a dead spot at the top of the pedal where just resting my foot on it would depress it.

As of today I have finished changing the Clutch, Pressure Plate, Slave Cylinder and Flywheel (LUK branded), I then bled the system with a pressure bleeder and confirmed there was no air in the system.
The pedal still feels exactly the same, the same dead spot at the top and it's still hard to depress towards the bottom. 
My 2 thoughts after this is;
A: This is how it's supposed to feel, having changed almost the entire system with only the clutch line and bleeder valve original I can only assume that this is just how It should feel :evil:

B: I messed up installing / bleeding the Master Cylinder (highly likely, I didn't have a pressure bleeder back then) but even if I did I'm not sure what damage I could have done.

Neither of these are exactly great, if its A then honestly I want to sell the car as I found it painful to drive for any extended period of time especially in stop start traffic, and if B then I'd be happy to replace the Master Cylinder but I suspect the only way to find out will be replacing it and seeing [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I've never driven another TT to see what it should feel like which means that everything I have to go on is a based on guess work.

I hope that this saves someone time and money, if I'd known that after changing all these parts it would feel the same I wouldn't have done any of it.


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