# The restoration of my 2001 TT quattro 225 (Thread)



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Hi,

I don't know if it's the good section, but I wanted to share with you the history of my car, from France !

For the past few months, the idea of bartering the motorcycle (GSR750) for an old sports car to be restored having its way, I finally took action.

In September 2019, I therefore acquired a TT Mk1 quattro 225hp from 2001 with 180,000 km (~112,000 miles)

She was a granny who is a bit worn out mechanically and aesthetically, but knowing that it is a pleasure car and not my daily, I do not put pressure on myself.

Since September, my project is to restore her and get closer a S-Line finition, wich exist also in raven black pearl (LZ9V)

Here is the car on the day of purchase:









The list of faults identified by the previous owner:
- Play / clicks in the right front axle
- ESP light on: a priori due to the steering angle sensor, which he provided to me
- Engine warning light (EOBD) on: a priori due to a false contact at the level of the camshaft sensor harness
- ABS warning light which lights up from time to time: There, I suppose dirt on the wheel sensors, before going further
- LCD screen of the dash very tired
- Some body defects

And during taxiing before the purchase, I detected what I think is a axle problem on the right front (mechanical vibration maintained when we maintain the heading on one side, and nothing when we change direction), and a the light symbolizing a "defective engine oil sensor" came on just after a stop for a few minutes, then went out about 20 minutes later.


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## Kang (Feb 5, 2018)

Congratulations on your new old car. I look forward to hearing how you get on with it.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Few days after, I started a big mechanical inspection.

1st status : She needed a big refresh of the drivetrains !

Front arm bushes very tired









Front axle bellow cracked









During disassembly, I tested the shock absorbers: dead

So, let's Go !

On the menu:
- Bilstein B4 + Eibach springs -25 mm to get closer to the S-Line chassis + accessories (bellow, top bushes
- Wheel bearings
- All the rubber bushes (anti-roll bar, whishbone)
- Guide joints
- Coupling rod
- Left front driveshaft
- Painting brake calipers
- Cleaning the wheel arches + replacing rusty screws / adding missing screws

Some pictures:


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Then, some upgrades:

- LED Plate lighting
















- Cum-cartec Plug & Play comfort indicator retrofit kit









- D2S Xenon 6000 kelvins

- Turn signal indicator replacement (old ones was broken)

- Carpets


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Later, I found some of used parts to complete my list

- RS9 rims
- Shock absorber head cap
- Windshield bay seal
- Clutch pedal cap
- Front brake caliper mounting caps
- Haldex control unit










- Leather handbrake cover









- Post facelift blades and arms

Before









After


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

little shots, just before a big refresh on rear drivetrain



















Replacement of all rubber parts (including inner bushes of the tie bars, with PowerFlex PFR3-510 cause not available in OEM), brake hoses, bearings, and painting after cleaning.




























In the same time, refresh of the rear calipers


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Nice job. Quick restoration going on

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Next step

Haldex servicing + control unit replacement, because of the following error

_Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.LBL
Controller: 02D 900 554 B
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006
VCID: 1F31607F8EA5
1 Fault Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00 - - _

By the way, impossible to know if the Haldex was working properly. I guess not, because according to the message, communication was absent.










For Haldex draining, nothing complicated, I relied on the tutorials that I found.
For the replacement of the calculator, I relied on this link, very illustrated: https://www.drive2.ru/l/328112/

The least we can say is that you have to go slowly, knowing that there is very little space to work

Difficult to access the screws that hold the control unit

To put the flat seal in place, the elastic method works very well.

Following the change of the Haldex calculator:

_Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.LBL
Controller: 02D 900 554 D
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0011
VCID: 21356687B8D1
1 Fault Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent_

After research, significant probability that it is a fault with the brake sensor (above the pedal).

After replacing the brake sensor:

_Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.LBL
Controller: 02D 900 554 D
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0011
VCID: 21356687B8D1
No fault code found._

- Done!

To finish, rear final drive servicing


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

after a visit of Audi dealer










The key holder and the card pocket were graciously offered. Thanks Audi, that's exactly what I needed. And it's so much classier!

- black R8 windshield washer plug (400955277/5 €), replacing the old blue one, all broken.









- Installation of the seat tilt lever, which was missing









- Change of gearbox control pad. It is done in 5 minutes without the need to remove the air filter, or the battery


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

Watch out for those LED numberplate things, mine worked fine on my A4 for a few months and then started sending the CANBUS light warning doo lally. bulb failure, then OK, then bulb failure, along with annoying beep every few seconds


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

On the side of the engine, not much yet

The servicing was done just before I bought te car (oil, all the filters)

But I have the following fault:

_Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8N0 906 018 H
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0003
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 361FA5DB015F
TRUZZZ8NZ11021348 AUZ5Z0Y9312062
1 Fault Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0010 0001 _

So, I started to mesure the engine compressions to know its state of health

100% charged battery (12.8v)

Engine at operating temperature, remove the coils and spark plugs
I also electrically disconnected the injectors and the fuel pump, via fuse 28 (15A)

1st test:









2nd test after physical disconnection of the throttle body form the intake manifold, after noticing that even if we press the accelerator fully, the throttle body opens when the ignition is switched on, but closes as soon as the starter is started .

Cylinder 2 confirms its offset from the other 3, although there is nothing to worry about. So I add a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder through the candle then to see the impact. We go up to 9 bars. We see here 8.5 because during the test which gave me 9, I had not returned the paper









In short, I have the impression that on the whole, it is reassuring, with regard to the manufacturers' recommendations:

New values: 10 - 13 bars
Wear limit at 7 bar, and no more than 3 bar gap between 2 cylinders.

No reassembly without checking the gap of the NGK spark plugs, given for 0.8 mm, and replaced as at the origin of the many pipes above the rocker cover

And since I had uncoupled the throttle body, I might as well clean it thoroughly.









Then, I cleaned the air mass flow sensor and changed the fuel filter and the lower engine support, very tired


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Last shots:


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Very nice. When I compression tested mine, cylinders 1-3 were 150psi and 4 was 145 psi. That was at about 200k kms, now I have 230k

Keep up the work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## SamDorey (Dec 31, 2016)

Glad to see another TT being restored back to the roads. You've done an amazing job!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Thanks,

I suppose that you carried out a complete refresh to reach such values (at least piston rings, cylinder head)?



silkman said:


> Very nice. When I compression tested mine, cylinders 1-3 were 150psi and 4 was 145 psi. That was at about 200k kms, now I have 230k
> 
> Keep up the work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

SamDorey said:


> Glad to see another TT being restored back to the roads. You've done an amazing job!


Thanks !

At this point, everything is not perfect, but it is already much better than when I bought it!

- I still have to solve my problem with the ride height at the fron. See my post here

- Sometimes, ABS light comes on because of the Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251) send funny values (at least, I know where it is come from)

- A few days ago, I had to quickly get on the side on the to let a Police car pass, and I touched the ground at the level of the engine cradle on the right side, because the side of the road was lower than the roadway . And since then, I have a mechanical noise from the gearbox or the finaldrive unit. I inspected the right driveshaft, but it has no problem. So I will have to investigate further. I'm a bit worried about that.

- One the engine side, I have to think about it, because I have an oil leakage, on the side of the turbo. I don't like it, and sometimes causes an oil sensor warning light on the dash, when the oil finish its way on it (it's the lowest point of the engine). A complete refresh on the engine is a big operation and requires a lot of time (and money ...). But I think about it more and more, despite I have no experience. Nevertheless, I am tempted to make a first observation with a test to the power bench.

- On the body side, I plan to make a complete polishing with my brand new DAS-6 PRO mk2. It will be my first time !

In parallel, I'm continuing my research to get closer to the configuration of an S-Line
- Steering wheel and gear knob with punched leather, very difficult to find.
- Doors sills : I don't know exactly the OEM references
- Titanium headlights

Not to mention other basic attributes
- 3 bar grill
- Rear diffuser


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Some news, about the mechanical noise.

As writed above, I immediately targeted the driveshaft, or worse, the final drive unit.
So I inspected everything, but nothing visible, except a trace on the cradle, and on one of the screws that holds the triangle.

Then, I drained the gearbox + final drive, since these organs share the same oil.
It allowed me to make sure there was oil left.

On the output of the final drive, no more radial play than before and no longitudinal play.

Conclusion: always the same noise.

And for the past few days, I've taken the driveshaft apart to inspect it. No problem.










By the way, I just wondered about the play in the wheel bearing (which is brand new) when it is not tightened by the nut.

-> For specialists, is this normal? Is the bearing intended to be stressed by the universal joint and its nut?

But when the nut is tight, no play.

And this morning, I took the car to go to work. And miracle: No noise at all !

At this point, it sounds to me like a mechanical enigma !


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I know that if the Driveshaft Nut (or bolt depending on shaft type) is loosened more than 90 degrees with weight on the wheels the wheel bearing will be ruined, I think I have caused this on my front right as I get an annoying quiet vrrrrr on some tight left turns since putting car back together.

so with that above I expect the Driveshaft is part of the hub and bearings


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Awesome work, Milky_Way 8) You don't waste time!
On the topic of oil for gearbox and rear differential, there is a recommendation to use different oil type. GL4 for gearbox and transfer case, and GL5 for rear diff. Read this thread https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1540785
I can't wait to see what you do next!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Thank for your message, Van Well !

Below the oil I used











Van Well said:


> Awesome work, Milky_Way 8) You don't waste time!
> On the topic of oil for gearbox and rear differential, there is a recommendation to use different oil type. GL4 for gearbox and transfer case, and GL5 for rear diff. Read this thread https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1540785
> I can't wait to see what you do next!


A few words on draining GBX & final drive unit

Car is on flat, because the filling have to be done by overflow. I placed the car on 4 large wooden "blocks"










To emptying the components, unscrew the cap from the final drive (in black in the foreground below) and the one below the gearbox. It is from the latter that the vast majority of the oil will flow.

Overall, I removed 2.4L of a visibly tired oil.










Gearbox :










By the way, a small photo of the magnetic cap of the final drive, which has a few metal particles, before cleaning.
I have fairly little experience, but that didn't worry me more than that.










Last step, filling. Having only a 300 ml plastic syringe, I preferred another method:
Pour into a funnel and a flexible hose from the top of the engine to the filling hole of the box, on the front face.










I returned 2.6L of oil.
Theoretically, you have to do a little check after driving a little, to be sure that the oil has circulated everywhere, including in the final drive.
So I will do a little check, but I am not very worried because I puted put the exact quantity claimed on the documentation.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

sterling work there budy,,, just done a whole lot of stuff my self ,,, currently stuck on headlight internals .
all sorted now ,,, nice to see another TT being kept on the road,, if i can help with any advice pls ask ,,, tres bien mons,, my advice ,, if it aint broken then leave it alone ,, lower , stiffen , spacers , ( you already done the wheels ), good to go,... oh ,, polish !!


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> Thanks,
> 
> I suppose that you carried out a complete refresh to reach such values (at least piston rings, cylinder head)?
> 
> ...


Nope, the engine hasnt been touched (now at 230k kms). Regular oil changes and never >3000rpm until engine fully warmed. I had it pressure tested just to see condition of the engine...

Oil consumption in mine is strange: In city driving which I mostly do, it needs maybe 1 liter of oil every 2 months, thats maybe 1600 kms. In my last summer 2600 kms trip (mostly motorway) it used up almost no oil...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

@Silkman : your oil consumption behavior is strange !

@roddy : A complete detailing is scheduled


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Some news

Replacement of the gas filled struts which have had their day (19 years anyway!).

We take this opportunity to clean in the nooks and treat the peripheral seal with silicone.










Small tip, to do it alone, a broom to hold the trunk during the operation.

By the way, admire my magnificent trunk lining which is trying to take off. I have to find this part on occasion, as well as the rear deck, which I don't have.










Cheap, fast and efficient!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

I also finished installing a parking sensor.

Tedious, but rather nice. A little disappointed car did not want to ask higher than the line of the bumpers, it detected the ground, which created a low frequency beep beep as soon as reverse gear was engaged. Clearly, it is as if I had an obstacle at 1 meter permanently. But the beep intensifies well as soon as you approach an obstacle, so the goal is reached.

For the installation I had to practice small cuts in the aluminum crossing: personal choice imposed by the sensors.

We take this opportunity to clean up and see that everything is healthy underneath.










And then at reassembly, I took the opportunity to install my freshly unearthed valence (V6 OEM), only after cleaning and treatment to give it the appearance of brand new



















And here is the final result. There are parking sensors which luckily are almost identical in color. Do not pay attention to micro scratches on the bumper (complete polishing project in sight)


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

We continue with the V71 recycling component which brings up the following message:

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.LBL
Controller: 8N0 820 043 A
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03
Coding: 00040
Shop #: WSC 01236
VCID: 28237BA3DBEB
1 Fault Found:
*01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent *

So, we disassemble by following info found on these links and this youtube video

https://forums.audipassion.com/topi...atronic-capteur-g113-et-volet-v71-defectueux/
http://evren-yurtesen.blogspot.com/2017/07/golf-mk4-variant-v68-temperature-flap.html






The extracted part. OEM Ref: 1J1 907 511A










Without much surprise, broken gear.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> We continue with the V71 recycling component which brings up the following message:
> 
> Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.LBL
> Controller: 8N0 820 043 A
> ...


Very nice. I have the same problem on V71 but it says "Blocked or no voltage". Most probably the muppets who fixed the heating core forgot to put the plug back and now recirc control doesn't work.

They also forgot to plug heated rear screen button which was an easy fix by me, that's why I suspect it's a missing plug


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

Milky_Way said:


> I also finished installing a parking sensor.
> 
> Tedious, but rather nice. A little disappointed car did not want to ask higher than the line of the bumpers, it detected the ground, which created a low frequency beep beep as soon as reverse gear was engaged. Clearly, it is as if I had an obstacle at 1 meter permanently. But the beep intensifies well as soon as you approach an obstacle, so the goal is reached.
> 
> ...


how easy is it o remove the rear bumper , i want to remove the weight thing .


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

If so, you can easily fix it! Only 5 minutes to access (5 or 6 torx screws)



silkman said:


> Very nice. I have the same problem on V71 but it says "Blocked or no voltage". Most probably the muppets who fixed the heating core forgot to put the plug back and now recirc control doesn't work.
> 
> They also forgot to plug heated rear screen button which was an easy fix by me, that's why I suspect it's a missing plug


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

roddy said:


> how easy is it o remove the rear bumper , i want to remove the weight thing .


It's necessary for stability at high speed, so I didn't touch it


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Couple of days ago, I bought a polishing brush, to finish the inside of the exhaust pipes


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Then I tackled the cooling system

Changing the expansion tank










The reason was not only aesthetic ...










It's still better!










Then the thermostat, as long as emptying the circuit, as much to do preventive

The old one










Installation of the new one. Not very accessible ...



















And we finish with the temperature wave. Via channel 49, it indicates 30 degrees when the engine is cold and it is 16 degrees in the basement. We change !

I still did a test by heating the probe with the heat gun. The temperature rises.

The old one


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

let's continue to check the cooling system

I took the opportunity to continue the inspect the running of the fans.

So I disconnected the 3-pin socket from the thermal switch and made a bridge between terminals 1 and 2, then 1 and 3.

It's only the small fan that rotates, at low speed or at high speed, depending on the position of the bridge.

But the big one doesn't spin, even feeding it directly, without going through the relay.

So I took it apart to blow the blow on the coals, but nothing to do. To change !





































So, as long as I do, I also change the thermal switch, which is screwed on the side of the radiator. It's so inaccessible, that I don't want to take it apart several times.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Rcently, final installation of the water temperature sensor on the outlet box, after having changed the seal of the latter (part n°11, € 1.50 ...)










Question for you: by repositionning everything right, I have a fixing plate which I don't know what to do. It holds a beam which passes above the water outlet box and its ref is 06A971845AH

How is it fixed on your TT?










Otherwise, I took the opportunity to take care of the surrounding parts, such as the dump valve that I wanted to check.

It has visibly been replaced by the "reinforced" Audi model (710 N). To test it, a priori it is enough to blow by the small hose from the top. If there is no resistance, that is to say that the air passes it is HS, if on the contrary one cannot blow it is that it is good. So she's OK










Then I tested the N75, following the link procedure: https://forums.audipassion.com/topic/13 ... er-sa-n75/

28.75 Ohms, so OK

For voltage, it's strange. I only have a few millivolts between pin 1 and a ground. I don't know what to conclude from it.

Either way, the next step is checking the entire supercharging system for leaks, as I feel like the engine isn't delivering all of its power.

I have in mind to pass it to the power bench to make sure

And I finished with the head cylinder cover venting circuit by cleaning the inside of the valve and the hoses.
By the way, I find that the hose that comes to connect below the valve (in the center of the photo below) is really very soft. I can crush it without any difficulty with my fingers ... Same thing on your side ?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Then, V71 air recycling engine replacement. I took the opportunity to clean the fan.

Tedious because little access, but now it's perfect!

And of course, a position learning procedure by VCDS to finish


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## Helios451 (Mar 14, 2019)

Ce que vous faites est vraiment impressionnant! De quels sites français obtenez-vous vos pièces TT? J'habite en Charente, et vous?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

In recent weeks, I have progressed more slowly than usual

It must be said obtained this confinement, with madam, we are both teleworking by keeping children, which is not easy ... So, in the evening, I have less courage to m 'put it there.

However, I still finished replacing the main fan and the thermal switch. As a precaution I redid a test by making a bridge directly on the thermocontactor plug and the 2 fans launch well. It's all good.

So I refreshed almost of the cooling circuit










All that remains is to add coolant. G12 Ordered from the small shop near my house, but it is closed due to confinement ...

Then I was able to put the cross tube of the boost circuit back in place, which I had removed to give it a makeover. I also checked the condition of the hoses which are OK.

Before :









After :









I also finished installing the Bilstein B8 shock absorbers that I had ordered, replacing the B4 that are on sale

I had done the front but not yet the back.

By the way, I swapped the upper and lower link bars hoping to erase the camber induced by the lowering on the basis of a standard chassis (advice based on feedback on forums), and replaced the flexible soles which come to be sandwiched between the frame and the upper part of the spring

They were rather tired, as the photo shows:









The "hard" soles in the lower part of the spring were in a suitable condition and did not appear to be consumable parts.

Here is a complete illustration where we can clearly see the 2 soles









All this is done quite easily. Just lift the car, unscrew the lower screx retaining shock and press the arm to lower it. In this way, we can extract the spring by hand, put the new pad, and put everything back.

As a precaution, take care to unclip the ABS cable because it may be too tight when you are going to lower the rear axle to the maximum. And on the rear left side, you also have to unscrew the attitude sensor which corrects the position of the xenon.

When reassembling, I always put a little bit of thread locker if I have to reuse screws.

Fear those who do not have the patience to read all the previous pages, all the running gear is now new

- Bilstein B8 shock absorbers, Powerflex front top mount -10mm, ball joints for suspension and steering, front wishbones silent blocks and rear axle, silent blocks and links for front / rear stabilizer bars, wheel bearings ...

It remains only to make the geometry as soon as the confinement is completed.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Nice work! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Helios451 said:


> Ce que vous faites est vraiment impressionnant! De quels sites français obtenez-vous vos pièces TT? J'habite en Charente, et vous?


Merci !

I order my parts on Misterauto.fr & Autodoc


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## TT2000apx225 (Nov 12, 2017)

any update?


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## DC240S (Sep 24, 2014)

Excellent progress!

Thanks for sharing.

DC


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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

That's coming on really well, think I might have to polish the inside of my tail pipes now !

Nick


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## Helios451 (Mar 14, 2019)

Milky_Way said:


> Merci !
> 
> I order my parts on Misterauto.fr & Autodoc


[/quote]

Merci beaucoup!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Hello

A few days ago, I received a useful accessory during this period of confinement




























Assessment: super complete!

The next day, my neighbor called me because his VW Amarok does not start any more. Checks made (with all the precautions including mask and gloves, confinement required), battery out of order because it no longer accepts the charge.

So I launched the charger repair mode and about 18 hours later, problem resolved. Total charge performed. It certainly had to be sulfated.

Then I mounted the permanent cord on the TT and plugged it in. It works well, it's easy to use, and it supports all the batteries on the market, even the most modern lithium ion batteries.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

few moments later, I tackled my problem of inadvertent lighting of the ESP warning lamp, linked to a default of G251 sensor, the longitudinal acceleration sensor.

For that, you need a little material, and above all patience.

For details, I followed this excellent tutorial: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=435953&hilit=G251

My equipment is not tip top so I did what I could.

1st stage: remove the silicone










Then, take out the card, to resolder the chip. On mine, the chip has remained firmly attached to the silicone present at the bottom during the extraction of the card!










Next step, put the card back and put an insulating material. In this case, I used the two-component gel that I bought to connect my floor lights in the garden (confinement allows you to do lots of things like superb trenches to pass all the sheaths. .)










You just have to wait for it to dry.










Then, once the sensor is reinstalled, it will have to be recalibrated via VCDS, following the procedure: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1J)_Brake_Electronics_(MK20)#Basic_Setting


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Having managed to find coolant (G12 +) during the weekly shopping, I took the opportunity to restart the TT and expel the air bubbles from the largely refurbished cooling circuit (sensor temperature, thermal switch, thermostat, main fan, etc.).

But I got a little scare ... Although I was monitoring the temperature of the liquid via VCDS, I was monitoring the level of the liquid when I saw it start to boil! and when I returned to the PC, VCDS indicated 104°C ...

Fortunately, I immediately thought of turning on the air conditioning, which triggered the 2 fans and brought the temperature down to more conventional values.

The observation is therefore that the fan does not activate on its own.

On the other hand, after switching off the engine, I did not hear the electric water pump.

Weird.

So I'm going to investigate, but at this point, I tell myself that I may have just plugged in the plug of the thermal switch. If not, I don't know ... relay? other?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Randomly of these manipulations, I pressed on the steering wheel, without the horn reacting ...
2nd try more frank and nothing.

More calm, I searched a little, before seeing that the fuse had been removed ...

Fuse reset, I had the unpleasant surprise of tasting a permanent horn as soon as the ignition was switched on!

I understand better the absence of the fuse ...

Ideas ?

Randomly from some research, the steering wheel switch could be one of the possible causes.

Is this a known defect on the TT?


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> Having managed to find coolant (G12 +) during the weekly shopping, I took the opportunity to restart the TT and expel the air bubbles from the largely refurbished cooling circuit (sensor temperature, thermal switch, thermostat, main fan, etc.).
> 
> But I got a little scare ... Although I was monitoring the temperature of the liquid via VCDS, I was monitoring the level of the liquid when I saw it start to boil! and when I returned to the PC, VCDS indicated 104°C ...
> 
> ...


All of the above are controlled from the Fan control module (FCM). Used to be really expensive from Audi but nowadays aftermarket ones exist for about 50eur, but don't get the cheapest there is :roll: 


Milky_Way said:


> Randomly of these manipulations, I pressed on the steering wheel, without the horn reacting ...
> 2nd try more frank and nothing.
> 
> More calm, I searched a little, before seeing that the fuse had been removed ...
> ...


Only way to check I would think would be to take the steering wheel apart... :?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Think I'd try a cheap horn first just to see. For the sake of a couple of pounds might save you taking the wheel off lol


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Maybe check the horn relay, might be welded contacts ...
Remove the relay, check with multimeter. If N/O contacts are short circuit, check horn/wiring, as if the relay contacts are welded, it could be that the horns are drawing high current, or are, themselves short circuit.
Not 100% sure the pic below is TT.
Mac.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Last Tuesday, investigations around the horn. He was therefore silent since the purchase of the car more than 6 months ago.

Looking first on the fuse side, I saw that it was simply removed, and for good reason, if it is present, the horn sounds continuously from the moment of contact.

Next step, the relay. Which? And by the way, does he control other than the horn?

See photo below










Fortunately, I came across this: http://www.forum-audi.com/img/members/5/affection-des-relais-et-fusibles-tt-mk1.pdf

The horn relay is on the lowest rack. It's the number 53.

And as it is identical to the fog light relay (rack 1 location 4), I tested a reversal: horn continuously when the ignition was switched on.

So this is not the relay ...

We switch to the steering wheel switch, but that's not it ...

The 3 copper contactors do not touch, but it honks anyway!










And even like that, it still honks!









Until I find the culprit!

It was the steering angle sensor (G85) itself.

When I unplugged the yellow plug on the back of the sensor, no more horn.










And by chance, it turns out that I have one in my bazaar but which is deemed HS. Except that if you look closely, it seems that this G85 is made up of 2 superimposed parts: the electronics which calculate the steering angle + the rotary switch which acts as a cover.

It didn't take much to try to switch the OK parts of the 2 pieces.

Eureka! Everything works fine.

The horn finally sounds that when you press the steering wheel and the angle sensor gives consistent values on VCDS

[03 - Brake Electronics]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 004


















It's always rewarding to settle a problem with a success (and not for a penny more) !


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Galvanized by this victory, we continue with the fans that don't run alone.

On the other hand, after stop the engine, I didn't hear the electric water pump, despite I know there is one.

I specify that I dismiss the track of the blocked thermostat. It is brand new, and the radiator hoses are hot. I also eliminate the water pump, because I can see liquid coming back from the top of the expansion tank, so it is circulating.

So I rolled up my sleeves and did some research on the web.

The method consists of starting from the simplest to going to the most complicated.

First, the fuses one the engine bay and near the steering wheel. In the last case, I checked N°5 and N°16. They are out of the question

Then the thermal switch and the additional water pump.

I first looked at the latter, not being sure I had already heard it spin

Let's go. It is positioned behind the radiator, above the small fan.

By inspecting it, I realized that the electrical sheath which by the outlet does not go anywhere ...










Indeed, by pulling on the wires ...










Well, it was not going to work!

By the way, by plugging it in directly, it turns, that's already it.

While inspecting, I found the start point, which is on the harness that goes to the right headlight.

Possible that the wires have broken with time and vibrations, knowing that these small wires have surprisingly very little slack until the additional water pump is taken.










So we take out the soldering iron and heat shrink tubing










Once everything put back in place as at the origin, a small continuity test to see if my solderings are good and if the wires are not cut elsewhere. All right.

Using the electrical diagram below, I concluded that the brown goes to the ground and the red to the FCM (Fan Control Module).

Then, make way for the thermal switch. It's brand new.

Well, not so easy to check, given the access and knowing that I have already replaced the coolant, no desire to restart it.

The procedure is therefore different: 3 wires 1.5 m² plugged into the plug which normally plugs into the thermal switch and 1 wago for either the speed 1 or speed 2 circuit connector










Let's go for the test:

We put the battery back in, turn on the ignition, hold on, we can hear the additional water pump ... yet the car is cold.

We start the engine, one eye the VCDS to follow the rise in temperature, another on the coolant level.





































I counted 12 minutes to go from 20 to 90°C in idle speed

6 more minutes to go to 95°C

At this time I test the first speed by connecting 2 of my wires (1 and 2 of the radiator thermo fan switch on the electrical diagram): The 2 fans turn at the first speed, the same as when we put the air conditioning.

Note: I tested a little later, this harness is in permanent 12v, which means that the fans can turn on with the ignition off.

Then we test the 2nd speed by connecting terminals 2 and 3 of the radiator thermo fan switch on the electrical diagram. The 2 fans run at full speed.

Note: I tested a little later, this harness is in 12v after contact, which means that the fans cannot turn on with the ignition off.

Now that we know that the 2 speeds can be activated, if they do not activate once the thermocontactor plug is reconnected, it is out of order.

To be tested.

Now let's go to the additional water pump. It activates as soon as the ignition is switched on, seems to run continuously, And continues to run well after switching off the engine. All right.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Here is the result after reconnecting the thermal switch and checking the integrity of the wiring and sockets, especially on the famous FCM.

Conclusion: The ventilators are triggering well!

The values for speed 1 (the only one that I could reach while remaining static at idle speed) are on the photo below: 99 degrees C on VCDS (G62 = sensor on the water outlet housing) and 94 degrees on channel 49 of the air conditioning menu.

I also noticed an average gap of 6-7 degrees between the 2 infos










I let the fans run 3 times with identical values.

Speed 1 allows to reach 93°C (VCDS) and 86°C (channel 49) respectively with 21°C ambient.

As for the water pump, I timed just over 10 minutes after engine shutdown.

So everything seems to be back to normal.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> Note: I tested a little later, this harness is in permanent 12v, which means that the fans can turn on with the ignition off.


Fan speed 1 (low) can run with ignition off. Another test: Check with ignition and key off, remove fuse 16, fans should start. Put back fuse, fans should stop.

From your postings, I dont understand does it work now or not? The afterrun pump only activates with engine off and should run for 10 minutes. With the engine working it should be off.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Given the thermal switch start well the fans (at least the 1st speed during my test), it appears ok.

What do you suspect with you test ?

The auxiliary water pump is activated as soon as the ignition is switched on, seems to run continuously while the engine is running, and continues to run after stopping the engine for about 10 minutes. Does it the normal behavior ?

By the way, how do identify a malfunction of the FCM ?



silkman said:


> Milky_Way said:
> 
> 
> > Note: I tested a little later, this harness is in permanent 12v, which means that the fans can turn on with the ignition off.
> ...


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

After run water pump should normally only run when you turn the ignition off irrespective of the temp of the water and should run for approx 10minutes.

Stevie


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Humm !
So I understand I have an issue
And which componant drives the auxiliary water pump ?


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> Humm !
> So I understand I have an issue
> And which componant drives the auxiliary water pump ?


The FCM. And it probably needs replacing in your case.

The afterrun pump takes power +12V from FCM pin 1 I think from the 14pin FCM plug. But check your diagrams.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Hi everyone. Some news after my absence.
Below is everything I have done since then.

After a new diag session, a new code :

Adresse 08: Climatronic Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
No. pièce: 8N0 820 043 A
Pièce: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03 
Codage: 00040
No. Atelier: WSC 01236 
VCID: 285F4DA7C8F3120FF1-258C

1 Code défaut trouvé:
00603 - Servomoteur de volet au plancher/de dégivrage (V85)
41-10 - Bloque ou n´est pas sous tension - Intermittent

After some research, I followed a tutorial to carry out the servomotors adjustment 
I also find the recommendation to execute this procedure from time to time.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Afterwards, a appointment to set the geometry










Conclusion, everything was ok! Just a little touch-up of the parallelism at the front.

To believe that having refurbished everything restored the factory ratings ...

So it's certainly psychological, but I now see her as a moving car, and no longer as an old car under observation ...

On the way home, small accelerations on the country roads. She still has the respondent despite her sural leak (under the intake manifold) ...

can't wait to see after repair!

So that will be the next step.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Repair of a leak in the boost circuit.

Intake manifold removed without too many problems. You have to be methodical.










Then, the part that interstest us










The references below are the correct ones, by which I mean very up to date, because on my 2001 model, I have a few variants, where it is written "ECO" on them. Audi would have made some savings at the time with lower quality components ...?

The end of 06A-103-213-F broke during dismantling. The plastic was probably too old.

I ordered everything, except 06A-133-789 which looks ok, and also because it is not cheap ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

finally found!
I didn't have one so far










And the trunk panel

On the right, mine ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

At random during an inspection, I noticed that I had an almost bent cooling hose, at the engine outlet.

Probably a bad reassembly after an operation ...

Side view










Front view










I found the image below. We can see that this hose (the small one below the arrow) passes on the other side of the water outlet box.










After draining the coolant, I was able to reposition it.

That's done.

By the way, I should be able to do a big clean ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

We then go to the engine support on the battery side.

I found the engine to move a lot, especially at idle.

Luckily, I was able to get my hands on a new part at a very good price.



















Tightening torques (in N.m):










It is advisable to replace the screws when changing. Not having ordered them beforehand, I reused them with a little red loctite threadlocker.

We make room, then a little clean.

Obviously, during the replacement, the motor is supported from below!

The operation is not very complicated in itself. You have to remove the air box to gain access.

Attached is a link to an illustrative video.















And hop !










Well it was not luxury!

After the left support and the anti-torque rod, it remains to do the one on the timing side, during a next operation.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

And finally, the rack silent-block 1J0 422 884 A

Considering the small difference in price, I took powerflex here, generally more robust and easier to mount.










To access it, you must remove the right wheel.










We see it, held by a sort of horseshoe, held by 2 screws under the subframe.

You also need 2 screws at the top because this horseshoe holds a protective carter and a hose.










To remove it, it's a bit of a hassle. I had to trick and poke holes in it. It made it easier for me to take it out. Here is once everything removed.



















Then, reverse operation to reassemble.
It's easier with powerflex and PTFE grease ...

And here.









Tightening torques:


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

The rack bush was the first part of the overhaul of the power steering system

On the menu, change of oil and gaskets on the olive which is connected to the pump (where the numbers 14, 15 and 16 are on the first board) ref N 0138487 as well as the gasket of the fault switch. pressure (N ° 31 on plate 2) ref N0138115.

This is the only place on the circuit where it is a little greasy.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

While waiting for my parts order, cleaning the intake manifold. Briochin (product for cleaning the ovens) and nylon brush + toothbrush, then WD40 to finish.

Before









After


















Then, in the turn of the injectors

After some research, I got to know a very nice person, who offers cleaning (or descaling in the worst cases) in an ultrasonic bath + control of the quantities injected.

Some photos during the operation



















Result: no seized injector, and injected flow rates very close to each other, whatever the operating point.

Final result


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## ryanmtt (Sep 13, 2010)

Milky_Way said:


> We continue with the V71 recycling component which brings up the following message:
> 
> Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.LBL
> Controller: 8N0 820 043 A
> ...


Hi what symptoms did you get with the V71 fault, the reason I ask is my ac packed up and i keep getting this code now. I just wonder if you did not get any AC when this was faulty.

cheers


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

ryanmtt said:


> Milky_Way said:
> 
> 
> > We continue with the V71 recycling component which brings up the following message:
> ...


Hi
I was foggy in the car in rainy or cold weather
The air conditioning went on well when I pressed the button


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

I reduce my list of missing / to be replaced parts










By the way, protection of the haldex harness with duct tape, as originally

Before









After









Cleaning / inflation / treatment (dressing) of the spare wheel










Final result. Fine !


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Receipt of my order



















We start with the most tiring ...

The self-adhesive pads of the trunk stops. Ref 8N0827771










On the left side, she was no longer even present










Final result, after cleaning, installation and refitting of the plastic cover










Then we take care of the sticker with the tire pressure instructions. The ref is directly on the sticker.










Yes, we are in the detail, but the goal is not only to be consistent with models with 18 inches.

It is also to have the values of pressure, without looking everywhere!

Before. The old one has held up well for 20 years!










Cleaning operation including the cap and the chute, with an APC (I use All Clean + from Chemical Guys) and a brush, after removing the sticker with a razor blade + acetone.










It's clean, it's beautiful










A shutter at the front right ref 803803583A


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Replacement of the breather hose, softened by time, no doubt. It is suspected of crashing during severe depressions.




























Then we move on to the power steering circuit.

Replacement of the seals and cleaning around the pressure sensor, on the AD pump

References a few posts above










It was greasy and dirty. Even if it means replacing DA oil, we might as well raise any doubt about the sealing.

Draining an AD circuit is a first for me.










Ready to receive new oil

Hoping to get a more smooth steering than before










To tighten the sensor seal ring to 15 N.m, I first took my "marks" by putting the dynamo wrench in the vice, just to know how to dose.

The circuit is now nickel, with the replacement of the silent block of PowerFlex rack, some seals and the oil change.


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## ryanmtt (Sep 13, 2010)

Milky_Way said:


> ryanmtt said:
> 
> 
> > Milky_Way said:
> ...


pretty much what i am getting cheers, loving the build so far btw


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Once the power steering has been drained and the bubbles removed, we move on to the main thing:

The cleaning / reassembly of the intake facade, covered with a thick layer of sludge, caused by the faulty hose of the network under the manifold.

Here, we can already see more clearly. Brush, brush, Briochin, WD40 and brake cleaner and ... courage.

To avoid trouble, I plugged the various openings.










On dismantling, a few balls of sludge fell into the intake ducts.

So I preferred to think about a solution to find them. It works as well as at the dentist!










Hose network rebuilt, joint plane cleaned, gasket installation. it takes shape.










The collector is ready. He received new inserts to hold the engine cover (ref: N 908 47501)

And new hoses to join the fuel pressure regulator, and the N249.










Before reassembling everything, I changed a few old sheaths










Once everything was in place, I repeated a leak test. The circuit can withstand more than 1 bar without problem. On the other hand, the pressure drops slowly, the air escaping through the gauge. I imagine that the circuit cannot be tight enough to hold pressure for several minutes?










One all in place










And it starts straight away!

I don't know if these are the injectors ultrasonically cleaned and the boost circuit redone, but the sound of the exhaust is more hoarse than before

You just have to drain the cooling circuit, following the repositioning of a bent hose (probably an old intervention)


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Before installing the air box, I remembered that I needed to adjust the gearbox linkage.

A quick check our in my book, everything is played at the level of the selector above the gearbox, and the lever, which must be immobilized with a 5 mm diameter drill

Verdict: it's really night and day! Guidance is much more precise.



















As long as we do, cleaning and treating the lever gaiter, which is in rather good condition for 20 years!










No need to access the gearbox side, we can put the freshly spoiled air box back.

I was looking for an efficient and dry filter (without oil)


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Before his first turns of the wheel after more than a month of hiatus, one last touch: the covers behind the steering wheel

The opportunity also to change 2 broken quick fixes and add a missing screw on the large cover below.

Before









After


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Nice work! Keep the pictures coming.

I have bought the tailgate round stickers myself a few years ago but never bothered putting them on :lol:


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Small release report after all that. It's better but not as blatant as I imagined.

It pushes a little more, we hear more the exhaust (I can't wait to change for something more rewarding, but I have to control my budget), the airbox (certainly the effect of the pipercross filter) and the dump valve, but I still find it very linear. There is no "butt kick" effect

The turbo thrust manifests itself a little before 3000 rpm, which I left a little late in view of the official curve below, even if I am well aware that we are on a 20-year-old turbo ...

So I always wonder if she pulls out all her power.

With VCDS, now, only one fault code, always the same, which I have to take care of.

1 Fault code found:
17748 - Capt. position AAC (G40) / crankshaft (G28) Incorrect assignment
P1340 - 35-00 -
Tests passed: 0110 0001

By searching in the invoices, I have trace of a change of the chain of camshafts and of the tensioner associated with 116 000 km, 2 000 km after the change of the distribution kit + tensioner + water pump + accessories belt + all hydraulic inlet / exhaust valve lifters.

The last change in distribution was made at 156,000 km. Maybe a bad timing?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

silkman said:


> Nice work! Keep the pictures coming.
> 
> I have bought the tailgate round stickers myself a few years ago but never bothered putting them on :lol:


Thank you. This may be the opportunity to put them on


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Some pictures. Please be indulgent, she is a little dirty ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

A few days later while driving

Oh ... there, for sure, it will work less well! The induction hose is no longer sleeved on the turbo, however, the clamp, if!










After disassembly (very painful), we see that the induction hose has given way just at the junction with the turbo. It must have cracked first, hence the loss of power, until it broke completely.










Otherwise, the good thing is that I was able to check the condition of the turbo on the compressor side.
No odd play, and vanes that appear to be pretty good. Reassuring
I just have to clean my fingerprints and all the rest


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

New parts

A Viper Performance hose (used) and 1 meter of silicone hose (purchased from swapland) to replace the N75 - Waste Gate connection hose










So without further ado, let's roll up our sleeves!

I started with a good exterior cleaning of everything that is greasy like the turbo, the engine block, the various hoses, etc ...

Even the collar that holds the hose on the turbo is there

That was before ...

Sorry, I didn't take the photo after, but it's another world!










Then, we had to be patient to position everything correctly, because the new hose was not 100% faithful to the dimensions of the original one.

For example, I had to resolve to remove 15 mm on the turbo inlet diameter, otherwise it directly affected the rigid brake lines at the outlet of mastervac

After that (I admit that I was not very proud ...), perfect fit!










After that, we go back up quietly, including the strut bar, repainted a few days earlier.
Sanding, 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of satin black Motip and 2 coats of Varnish of the same brand.










By the way, a small cleaning










The final rendering before installing the covers is pretty good. It's clean and the changes are inconspicuous.










Small photo before going for a walk, to make some logs










Some will have noticed this new 3 bars grill, freshly mounted. Used in good condition, treated to give the plastic its new appearance.

On the other hand, I miss the Quattro badge.


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

We continue the rejuvenation treatment with painting the bumper grilles










Before









After









Final result


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Afterwards, small modification, to get even closer to the S Line configuration


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

In order to refind the nominal performance, I ordered coilpacks and a booster pump (4 bars on the 225)

Installation of new NGK coils. Allow 30 minutes.



















Fuel pump replacement



















Conclusion, it starts straight away!

It remains to be tested on the road.

Except that I will have to wait a bit, because I sent my PI to get a makeover (disease of the screen and the pixels which drop one after the other)

By the way, I solved a problem. When I put on the headlights, I found the meter lighting weak. After inspecting the intensity adjustment dial next to the headlight switch, well it was just the pins that were a bit pitted!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Return dash, with its brand new screen.

Small disappointment, the hands were shifted. A priori due to transport (thank you post for the care given to the packages, despite the BIG "fragile" inscriptions on it ...), because having already had the problem on the way there.

The person had taken care to warn me to eliminate the trail of a faulty micro motor. Then I received videos of the repair. top.

So I had to remove the glass to reset the needles with the help of VCDS, not without apprehension, but in the end everything went well.


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Afterwards, the front brakes.

I am basing myself on the impression that the pads were very easily in contact with the disc, knowing that I had a seized rear caliper due to a damaged dust cover. Not to mention the fact that I do not have too much confidence in hoses aged 20 years ...

On the program, repair of the calipers with seals, pistons, dust covers and change of hoses by aviation type models.

I took HEL Performance brand hoses, carbon color, to stay sober.

About fifty euros for the front which seems quite reasonable to me knowing that the original hoses are almost the same price

Available in AV kit or AV + AR kit










I also took the opportunity to change the rubber that seal the wheel arches. Here, we see that the old one is completely out of order

The ref of these gaskets is: 1J0611751A (less than 5 € each)

https://www.clan-tt.com/forums/uplo...humb.jpg.a92d03fcb85e752de9c424dc6e5dd2c5.jpg

Photo of reassembly. You have to be patient enough to retract the piston and properly place the cover to damage nothing ...



















And There you go ! Still a good shot of clean to put everywhere.



















I had not indicated it, but even if it meant redoing it, I also changed the brakepads.

For the purge, I acquired the Eezibleed purge kit from the Gunson brand. I imagine it's not worth the pro hardware, but for a purge once every 2 years, I find it to be pretty good for the price.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Types de traductions
Traduction de texte
Texte source
1179 / 5000
Résultats de traduction
A big victory is the erasure of my last VCDS fault, which I had been dragging since the acquisition 1 year ago.

It was an engine fault:

17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -

A quick search on the net gave me several leads: http: //wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928
Possible Causes

Timing Belt / Chain incorrectly installed
Timing Chain probably lengthened
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

So I started with the 1st track, not the easiest: checking the timing of the distribution

And ... bingo!

I first removed the accessories belt, after disconnecting and removing the fuel hoses and the mastervac hose

This allows you to view the mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the flange which is just behind.

To continue, you must remove the covers to access the AAC and cranckshaft pulleys.

On the gearbox side, there is a light to read the mark on the engine flywheel.

And the verdict falls pretty quickly.

Once wedged down (photo taken on the tutorial cited above):










The marks should line up at the AAC pulley like the image below










Except that in my case, I had the equivalent of 1 offset tooth!

Maybe this is the explanation for the lack of performance! (To date, I count 170-180hp out of the 225 based on my logs)
The distribution was made in June 2015.

So I'm wondering if this problem dates from 5 years ago, or is more recent?
The car runs pretty smoothly, and an uninitiated could easily miss it! that's crazy !










So we had to roll up our sleeves.

My strategy: We reset this distribution. If clearing the fault code, and recovering all perfos, I will only have to make a complete distribution (belt, roller, hydro tensioner, accessory belt, etc ...) and voila. If the perfos are still not at the RDV, I will make the new distribution after having found my 225hp, especially if that involves removing the cylinder head.

To reset, it's not very complicated. No need to take out the motor mount, because no need to take out the belt.

It suffices to compress the hydro tensioner with a long Ø 5 mm screw (named T 10092 on the diagram) to slacken the belt, undo it from the camshaft pulley and reposition it as necessary.










After reassembly, I checked the new timing twice by turning the crankshaft by hand several times. great.


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Then, small drive to make some logs










Assessment: the best, but I have the impression that he still lacking a little

Engine load closer to 160%

Stable pressure close to 2 bars. I still hang at 3000 rpm, but it seems to pull longer

Flow close to 170g/s, can do better


















It's all both rewarding and frustrating ...


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Some news, after testing a friend's flowmeter

Conclusion: my flowmeter underestimates well, which makes me lose ~ 10 hp!

Oct 18: my flowmeter

Nov 10: The one from my friend >> Gives / reads higher airflow almost all the time. The engine gives the impression of being fuller and more punchy.

Confirmed by the torque values of group 120 with overall 10 N.m more over a wide range

We reach a recalculated power close to 220 hp


















Conclusion: Flowmeter track confirmed, which proves once again the importance of this component

It remains to buy a new one


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Satisfied ...


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

A lot of work on the front side in recent days.

Installation of titanium headlights, after having renovated them
Installation of the Quattro logo associated with the new 3-bar grille

In this photo we can clearly see the traces of use (> 15 years ...)










A sanding with water from 600 to 3000, then an orbital polishing (under the Christmas tree of the last Christmas) with the compound 400, then polish 1100 and 3000 allowed me to have an honorable result for the beginner that I am. I finish with a ceramic treatment to protect the lighthouse, now without varnish.

After sanding with water










After polishing










And here is the end result in a morning light

Thanks to Madame for helping me reposition the shield, checking that clearances and outcrops are roughly constant throughout.


----------



## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

And today, installation of a fire extinguisher.

The multiple fires of TT made me react. Our frames are 20 years old!










Looks like the TT was meant for. You have to remove the 2 shutters and the 5 mm diameter screws to change them to longer ones, and voila!



















Care will be taken to preserve the removed elements ...










The result


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Keep up the good work.

Just one question, why you replace so many parts? Apart from cosmetic, eg coil packs and fuel pump why you replaced them?

Your restoration bill can go way up this way :roll:


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Hi

For the cometic part, I want to restore it in an S-Line configuration, hense Old RS4 rims, titane lights, 3 bars grill, al gear knob, etc ...

For the engine part, consist to make some logs and try to identify which component to replace, to refind a level of performance as good as possible, given the mileage. 
That's why I changed the coil packs and fuel pump, who generally age quite poorly. Same thing for the MAF !
And we see it on the logs : Now I reach optimal spark advance and nominal air mass flow

In parallel, I tested all pressure / vacum circuit to avoid leaks and it remains some oil leaks to solde.


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## XxXHighXxX (Nov 23, 2017)

that's some real good work... 
surprised you are able to find all those parts mind sharing where u managed to hunt them from?

where I m from parts are really hard to be found.

cheers


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

XxXHighXxX said:


> that's some real good work...
> surprised you are able to find all those parts mind sharing where u managed to hunt them from?
> 
> where I m from parts are really hard to be found.
> ...


Which parts do you talk about ?

If you talk about the "SLine package", I found all on ebay

I'm still missing the SLine door sills >> very hard to be found


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Nice work [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Small drive by a setting sun ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

This drive was the opportunity to test my brand new BOSCH flow meter

Here is the verdict: 180 - 182 g/s, or the original spec, which corresponds to ~ 225 hp minimum, if we apply the macro formula (Power (hp) = Qair (g / s) / 0.8). Not bad isn't it ?

Here is an illustration of the importance of this component, looking at the flowmeter response as a function of rpm, over several accels to see repeatability.

In red the new, in blue the old. We see up to 20 g/s delta, or 25 horses!

In green, that of mr friend's one that I thank for the loan










The only downside, the car really smells hot after the logs, which doesn't reassure me.

As I opened the hood, I saw smoke coming out of the top of the thermal wrap around the turbo. Maybe oil that burns on contact with the hot body of the turbo ...?

Knowing that I have a small oil leak on the exhaust front side, I will have to investigate.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

In recent days, I have started to tackle my oil leak problem on the exhaust front side.

Reminder of the symptoms: engine oil leak from the turbo side flowing to the bottom of the oil pan, smell of cold exhaust gas and hot burnt oil + smoke coming out through the thermal protection surrounding the turbo afterwards dynamic driving. And after inspection, a lot of oil in the supercharging circuit, as well as the turbo axis which has side play ...










On the menu, disassembly of the turbo and the exhaust manifold, a first for me and a little anxiety ... The goal is to check if the manifold or the hot body of the turbo are not cracked. In this case, I may be able to limit to changing the CHRA.

It's long and very inaccessible. The names of birds have rocketed!

After several hours, I'm almost there. The turbo is moving and is almost ready to go out.

Before that, I struggled a lot to unscrew the 6 nuts of the downpipe / catas connection which were as if welded by time and the successive heating cycles. I came to the end of it with a ratchet and a 13 to 6-point socket (imperative!) And a few hammer blows.










The rest of the operation is a game of patience and reflection, to know how to access a particular screw, or which key or tool to use.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Just before this operation I took the opportunity to take another compressions with a freshly bought compressiometer on Amazon.

The goal is to see the impact of the repairs that I have already made, such as the resetting of my timing belt, which was offset by a tooth!

The results are better than those I had obtained after purchasing a little over a year ago with a Facom device borrowed from work

Protocol reminder: Hot engine / battery well charged / Injectors and fuel pump fuse (N ° 28) disconnected

Results supposed to be a little reduced because of the formed throttle (the BAM engine closes the throttle during starting, even if the accelerator is fully pressed)

Cyl 1: 11 bar / 160 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)

Cyl 2: 9.5 bar / 140 PSI (2019 value: 8.5)

Cyl 3: 10.7 bar / 155 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)

Cyl 4: 11.3 bar / 165 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)

What Audi recommends:

New values: 10 - 13 bars
Wear limit at 7 bar, and no more than 3 bar gap between 2 cylinders.

One point still saddens me. Difficult to know if the difference is to be put completely on the repairs, or the precision of the measuring tools. What is an Amazon compressiometer worth, compared to a facom, dated and used by everyone?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

After some efforts, some photos of the culprit ...

Do you see those wonderful cracks on the hot body ?? [smiley=bigcry.gif]














































And the exhaust manifold



















Probably the fact of old age, certainly amplified by the lack of an additional water pump (it was not functional when I bought the car)

I was going to forget the metal braid of the downpipe which is damaged.










Right now, it's sucks!


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> Hi
> 
> For the cometic part, I want to restore it in an S-Line configuration, hense Old RS4 rims, titane lights, 3 bars grill, al gear knob, etc ...
> 
> ...


Just for information the 5 bar grill was sline spec the 3 bar came later in 2002


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Mine had the same cracks, manifold and turbo, afterrun pump didn't work for a few years. Fortunately fixed everything but it should serve as warning for people to replace the afterrun pump


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## JoeKan (Mar 10, 2019)

Noted Silkman. It should become a habit to listen for the sound of the secondary water pump as you walk away from the car.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

YELLOW_TT said:


> Milky_Way said:
> 
> 
> > Hi
> ...


Right, I could precise : I target a post facelift Sline configuration


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

JoeKan said:


> Noted Silkman. It should become a habit to listen for the sound of the secondary water pump as you walk away from the car.


That's what I usually do, since I fixed it ! :lol:


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Hi

These last weeks, the car being immobilized, I took the opportunity to make a big refesh of all the leathers of the car. Seats, steering wheel, interior doors and handbrake lever, everything is there.

I chose Colourlock, having a very good reputation in this area.

If however you wanted to get started, they have videos on their site that show the products to use as well as how to apply.

On my 20-year-old leathers, I applied the procedure below

Here is the driver's seat before treatment




























Phase 1: Strong cleaner with a brush, then a damp cloth and finally a dry cloth.

The color speaks for itself










After that, the leather regains a matte appearance, it's quite impressive. Below a 50/50










Phase 2: Leather cleaning with a soft cloth (supplied in the kit)

We can see that some areas are damaged and bleached










Phase 3: Coloring with the Leather Fresh kit reference "Audi Soul", 24 hours after cleaning

First, sand the cracked areas with the abrasive pad provided
Then the coloring is applied with the sponge provided

And it's quite impressive

Before









After









Phase 4: Protection lotion. It's about nourishing the freshly treated leather. Apply with a soft cloth. 24 hours after phase 3

Phase 5: Sealing. Can be applied on leathers less than 3 years old or on freshly corrected leathers to protect them from aggressions or to prevent discolorations (color transfers on light leathers). 24 hours after phase 4.

In the end, I am happy with the result. A professionnal would certainly do better, but I find it fun to do it yourself and it's not too complicated.

The leathers are not new, but the traces of use are clearly faded and the traces of wear have been removed. Everything now gives off a feeling of quality

And the photos in the garage don't pay homage to the work



















Products


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Afterwards, a nice little modification, the addition of the automatic switch on of the lights

You have to buy a kit with the new button, a part that you hide in the dashboard, and a photo lens sensor that you stick under the windshield.

You can find it all over the internet. I took it on Ali by typing "automatic headlights golf 4"










By the way, I still had to tinker to fit the button in the original TT holder. Others cut out the support to keep the ring where it is inscribed "Auto"

During the operation










The sensitive photo cell, quite discreet










The result. Having positioned the button on the original support, the auto position corresponds to the night light symbol.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Okay, back to the engine

I think I found where to remake my turbo.
I found an original downpipe in good condition. Remains the exhaust manifold.

At the same time, I bought a complete CONTI timing belt kit (with roller, tensioner and water pump) + an accessory belt kit + roller of the same brand. And to finish the engine mount.
So this is the opportunity to do so. I have already done, there is nothing difficult.

But one idea leading to another, knowing that I have dismounted a lot of parts and that I don't want to come back to them 100 times, I first tackle the low engine.

On the program, inspections and change of the oil pump + tensioner and chain, which involves changing the sprocket on the crankshaft (and the front oil seal), since the teeth of the pinion are supposed to have worn out over time, while the chain and pump pinion will be new. And I take this opportunity to make the connecting rod bearings. I am thinking of taking ACL Race, the original gyclo are twice as expensive. It involves changing the connecting rod screws / nuts.

So here are the guts of my block. And surprise, it's pretty clean for 180,000 km (~112,000 miles)










The strainer is clean. Reassuring










The oil pump which is original










The sump is fairly clean, no surprises inside.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

For the top of the engine, I changed the coil plugs, fired and broken.

I also protected the harness with HPX textile tape resistant to 110°c

By the way, would someone have the ref of this beam if he is really dead one day?

It's already cleaner










Some nice little photos, once the cylinder head cover has been removed in anticipation of a change of gaskets (including AAC spi seals and that of the AAC chain tensioner)



















I didn't have to use too much force to clean the inside of the cylinder head cover.










At the end, the block looks rather healthy, I am rather reassured

However, given that I have removed the turbo, the manifold, the timing belt and the oil pan, I would be tempted to remove the cylinder head for a repair and change the piston rings, to boost my compressions.

The goal is to do something relevant rather than renovating on one side and ignoring another. I plan to keep this car.

But I have to figure it all out and see what to expect, having never done, except on my Peugeot 103 SP in the 90s ...

So I document myself!


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Milky_Way said:


> By the way, would someone have the ref of this beam if he is really dead one day?


Not sure what you mean; if you mean the coilpack harness, this is repaired by unraveling the cloth tape, checking/fixing individual wires or replacing the connector plugs which is easy



Milky_Way said:


> However, given that I have removed the turbo, the manifold, the timing belt and the oil pan, I would be tempted to remove the cylinder head for a repair and change the piston rings, to boost my compressions.


I would advise against it, unless you want big trouble and work in your hands, unless you have very excessive oil consumption (1l oil / 1000 kms). You can easily do a compression test for peace of mind, mine were 150, 150, 150, 145psi, 210,000kms


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Regarding the first point : I already done what you mention. My question is about the reference of the coilpack harness, which i didn't find.

2nd point :see below my measures.
Cyl 1: 11 bar / 160 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)
Cyl 2: 9.5 bar / 140 PSI (2019 value: 8.5)
Cyl 3: 10.7 bar / 155 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)
Cyl 4: 11.3 bar / 165 PSI (2019 value: 9.5)
2019' : other tool & wrong setting for the timing belt (1 tooth offset) without know what is contribution of each.



silkman said:


> Milky_Way said:
> 
> 
> > By the way, would someone have the ref of this beam if he is really dead one day?
> ...


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

I had a furious desire to go further, to move from theory (my job) to practice. I am curious and thirsty to learn.
My motivation also comes from the fact that the compressions are not exceptional, in particular on cylinder 2 with 1 bar less than the others.
And then like I said, since all the peripherals are taken apart ... I didn't want to regret that I didn't.

So, I have pushed my limits. No more choice now!

I plan to change the piston rings, may be forged connecting rods if it fits in the budget
Repair of the cylinder head with valve stem seals and lapping for a perfect seal, and of course a major cleaning
First of all, I will prepare to tackle the metrology part to see if I escape the rectification

It just works with the right tool!

The first key ordered on Amazon by typing "Ribe M10" did not fit
I ordered a second with this time the name VAG T10070 which this time fits perfectly. It's bluffing, the difference between the 2 is tiny.

You just need the help of a small soft mallet to fit the key well into the recess of each screw.




























Before that, I had prepared the ground by dropping the oil pan, the oil pump and the connecting rod caps

For the oil pump, I took the Febi kit with chain and tensioner

So that to be consistent, it seems normal to me to change the cranckshaft sproket, so as not to cause a new chain with a worn sproket

It didn't take too much trouble to remove the cranckshaft screw by heating it with a heat gun, the 19 mm 12-point socket (imperative!) And the electric impact wrench

To immobilize the cranckshaft , 2 not too hard wood wedges in the block to damage nothing.

The Pulley. One of the four small screws was damaged. Thank you dremel!









The oil pump sproket. It is ordered. 









Further cleaning. Devilishly efficient the dishwasher!


















I take the opportunity to pass the joint lines with a very soft brush


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

I also plan to change the water / oil exchanger, as well as all the joints of the support










A good cleaning will follow


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Here we are










The connecting rods are straight.
The pistons are a bit carbonated but it seems pretty clean to me. On the other hand, the grooves of the segments are very dirty










Undressing the cylinder head.

The lifters are super clean and run well without straining.
The camshafts are not marked at all.

It's looking pretty good


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Piston cleaning

Small recipe: WD40 and scotch brite




























In parallel, I measured the clearance the old rings, to check their state of wear.
Nothing very complicated, but it's rather long, because you have to play with the different wedges and feel when it fits or not.
In the end, if I do a big average, I get an average gap of 0.52 mm (the extremes are 0.45 and 0.6), for a wear limit of 0.8 mm
So it was worn out, but not too much


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

I continue metrology, equipped as never before

Comparator
Bore comparator
Micrometer (calibrated, 14°C in the garage)
Control rule




























Pistons are ok









Measure ovalization / taper + bore diameter


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Nice work and thanks for posting! Will you replace the piston rods with something stronger?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

silkman said:


> Nice work and thanks for posting! Will you replace the piston rods with something stronger?


Thank you !

Yes I just ordered Maxspeedinggroogs ones (contain also ARP bolts), and ACL race connecting rod bearings

As long as I open the engine, you might as well change the connecting rods which are deemed to be fragile


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

Really enjoying reading this thread, keep up the good work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

BrianB said:


> Really enjoying reading this thread, keep up the good work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Thanks !

I received the ACL bearings and Maxpeedingrods connecting rods. 
For the connecting rods, it is not specified direction or tightening torque :?

Everything looks perfectly balanced, even if the kitchen scale shows its limits.

The piston pins and clips are in perfect condition. Nowhere is it recommended to change them. Unless you tell me it's imperative, I think I'll reuse them.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Always fit new piston pin clips, they make a mess if they come out.
Fit with the gap at the top or bottom.


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Always fit new piston pin clips, they make a mess if they come out.
> Fit with the gap at the top or bottom.


Ordered !


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

It's moving on the turbo side

Freshly recovered after replacing the turbine housing and the CHRA with Melett brand componants. They also had Jrone, but I preferred to trust his know-how and his engineering (see their YouTube videos)

He looks better!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

1st package received from lllparts.co.uk

15 day wait, but the prices were worth it!

I have checked everything, they are indeed only Audi parts, and if some are in packaging without label, they are stamped Audi with the OEM ref. Notice the parcel is from Lithuania.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Very exciting 

Why did you fit forged rods with a stock K04?


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## BrianB (Apr 15, 2016)

Milky_Way said:


> 1st package received from lllparts.co.uk
> 
> 15 day wait, but the prices were worth it!
> 
> I have checked everything, they are indeed only Audi parts, and if some are in packaging without label, they are stamped Audi with the OEM ref. Notice the parcel is from Lithuania.


That's a good collection of parts there.......you must be really excited to get it all back together!!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

BrianB said:


> Milky_Way said:
> 
> 
> > 1st package received from lllparts.co.uk
> ...


Yes, but it's only the part of what I need to finish

I love this moment when you receive all the parts, in relation to the list that you have carefully prepared!


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

Some news, after a period of interruption

Pistons / Rods are back in the engine
For this step, I went through different questions / checks

First of all, I performed a honing of the cylinders with a cylinder hone and WD40
I had to modify the cylinder hone to make it a stopper to avoid too much diving, which could damage the piston bottom oil jets.
The oil jets are not accessible because of the presence of the crankshaft (I work directly on the car ...)



















In parallel, assembly of the connecting rods, bearings, pistons, clips, rings, once the metrological checks and balancing have been carried out










To facilitate the assembly, I used this product, more consistent than engine oil, and easy to work with.










- ACL Race bearings in standard size, because the conrods are within tolerance.

They are in a pack of 8, are not specific for the top or bottom of the connecting rod, like the original ones

Metrological control of radial clearance (micrometer + gauge): compliant 









Metrological check of the axial clearance of the connecting rod's big end, once mounted on the crankshaft (set of shims): compliant 









- Maxpeedingrods forged rods + ARP2000 bolts

Lot of things to read about these Chinese connecting rods ... The negatives feedback seems retaher be fears or doubts of non-users, and the positive feedbacks are based on tests or usage experience, so more pros than cons.

Here is an article on these connecting rods: https://bofiracing.co.uk/maxpeedingrods ... r-verdict/

They are well finished and well balanced (included in a range of 0.5g!)

In the case of this model, they are 30g heavier than the original connecting rods with 604g screws included, i.e. an increase of 3% of the overall connecting rod / piston mass ...

For information, I looked at what is on the market, and which is at least twice as expensive: 
- Integrated engineering : 574g with bolts
- Bar tek : 599g with bolts
- Crower : 570g with bolts
- Carillo : 580g (no precision if bolts are comprised or not)
- k1 : 514g (no precision if bolts are comprised or not)
- Eagle : 575g (no precision if bolts are comprised or not)
- Manley : 580g (no precision if bolts are comprised or not)

ARP 2000 bolts require a fairly precise operating mode

The best is to tighten them by stretching to aim between 0.15mm and 0.17mm (by difference between the nominal length and the length when tightened in place in the connecting rod)

Otherwise, a good value is 55 ft/lb (~ 75 N.m), going in stages with 2 to 3 tightening / loosening

It's needed to use the ARP lube, not supplied, and put it on the threads and at the base of the screw, where it will be in contact.










All this subject is very well treated by the youtuber Decimal Tenth, a passionate of 1.8T!





- Piston pins + clips

I reused the original piston pins, taking care not to invert them
For a few pennies I put on new OEM clips.

Metrological control of the connecting rod small end radial clearance (micrometer + gauge): compliant
Not easy, because of the precision limits of measuring tools 









- Kolbenschmidt piston rings standard dimension

German brand, apparently very well known and seems to be widely used in original equipment
Checking the cutting clearance in freshly honed cylinders

On all rings, I put the 0.20 mm shim, but not the 0.40 mm: compliant










As a reminder, with the old ones, I measured a gap following the rings between 0.45 and 0.60 mm. Worn out, therefore, but not to the extreme

And control of the grooves clearance of the pistons, after a good cleaning of the grooves: compliant
I am respectively at 0.06 mm for the 1st segment, 0.05 for the 2nd and 0.04 for the last










Now, the balancing

The goal is to weigh everything with a precision balance (0.1g) and match the different parts as well as possible for the smallest possible difference (ideally <1 gram)










Here is my little table with optimization (only pistons and axes have found their original cylinder) - Values in grams










0.3g maximum of difference per sum of the masses, and 0.6 observed by weighing the assemblies mounted with assembly oil, which necessarily weighs a little ...

Finally, final assembly on the ring compressor, then tightening of the connecting rods according to the procedure










I finished by checking the axial clearance of the crankshaft with the comparator. compliant, with a value less than 0.2mm










An important step taken. It's beautiful and it spins freely!


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## aro541 (Mar 8, 2021)

Amazing job  you should do YouTube channel


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Good job..  I do like you honing tool.

Did you gap the top two rings in the block? I stupidly read some US tuning guy about using a bigger gap, for more boost, and probably gaped too much 

What exhaust manifold are you going to use?

As the rods do not have an oil feed to the little end via rifle-drilled will this increase oil pressure elsewhere? Oil oil squirters?


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## Milky_Way (Jan 28, 2020)

StuartDB said:


> Good job..  I do like you honing tool.
> 
> Did you gap the top two rings in the block? I stupidly read some US tuning guy about using a bigger gap, for more boost, and probably gaped too much
> 
> ...


Regarding the rings, I'm in the Audi spec. I haven't heard of any rules to improve the boost

I found a used genuine manifold with 20 k miles

Regarding the forged rods and the absence of the oil feed for piston pin, I don't know what's the best choice. 
Do you think that it exist a risk ?
However, I bought a brand new oil pump kit (Febi) to restart in the best conditions


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