# 2008 Mk2 - DTC "00093 - Terminal 15 for Starting Relevant Consumers"



## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

I am not sure if I am at the right place to post the following issue,

The car is Audi TT 2008. Two weeks ago while the car was being driven in slow traffic in very hot weather, the instrument cluster along with the a/c and all electrical related components (radio) went off and the car kept running and steering normally. On the next traffic light the car stopped running and could not be started. After towing the car to the garage and as soon as it arrived in the garage (about one hour later), the car started on its own without any intervention and has been running since then! The audi mechanic at the garage ran a computer test and got a “low fuel pressure” error. The first thing that was done is replacing the fuel filter. After the replacement and after erasing the error, the “low fuel pressure” was still showing (car runs fine). Two days later, the same mechanic ran the same test and the error disappeared (not showing any more). I also checked both the alternator and the battery and they were both ok.

So, the question is: can a low fuel pressure cause the incident described above? Where the car keeps running while instrument cluster/radio/ac turn off for a short distance then the engine stops and does not start until one hour later on its own!

Thanks in advance.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Welcome to the TTF.
I will move your post into the MK2 section, you should get more replies.
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Welcome to the TTF.
> I will move your post into the MK2 section, you should get more replies.
> Hoggy.


Thanks .. what is the difference between mk1 and mk2 forums? I noticed mk1 has a lot more posts.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, MK1 forum is for the MK1 TT produced between 1999 & 2006.
Perhaps the MK 1 has more problems as it's much older or dare I say it more dedicated owners. 
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Thanks for the quick reply


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Q8audi said:


> what is the difference between mk1 and mk2 forums? I noticed mk1 has a lot more posts.


That's because the Mk1 has been around much longer than the Mk2.

If you would be so kind, please update your profile with your vehicle information so we can better address the problem - *Setting up your Account Information: Avatar, Country Location & Vehicle Details -* 








Open Letter for New Members - Setting up Your Profile...


Welcome to the new TT Forum co uk - As some of you may know, the original Forum look and function changed in September '21 when VerticalScope Inc. took ownership of the Forum. Although the look has changed, the support and dedication of our Staff and members remains the same. In order to help...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## BauhausBrick (10 mo ago)

I would guess that this is some sort of relay cooking or a sensor overcooking, causing a short, and the ECU then acts to shut down the system. You’ll need to, or get someone to inspect the electrics, relays and connectors I reckon, and make sure that there isn’t either a busted component or something causing overheating.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Thanks. I have been using the car since the incident, and in similar conditions (very hot weather), and the car has been running fine. I asked the Audi mechanic about the posibility of any relays or some wires getting temporarly loose or anything like this. He did not think of this as a possible cause. The only fault the computer was showing like I mentioned in the post was a “low fuel pressure” and since I replaced the fuel filter it has been cleared (2 days of driving after filter replacement). Going back to my question, can low fuel pressure cause this kind of incident: instrument cluster/radio/ac turn off then after driving a short distance the engine stops and can not start until 1-2 hours later on its own and has been running normally for 2 weeks now in hot weather with ac continuously on highest settings.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Low fuel pressure can stop the engine but will not cause loss of power to instrument cluster etc.
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Update: One thing I forgot to ask. Can wrong battery configuration cause this issue? The battery is a motorcraft which was a replacement (6 months ago) for a Bosch battery. The mc battery is 80 amps and this is the first summer season it goes thru.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Q8audi said:


> Update: One thing I forgot to ask. Can wrong battery configuration cause this issue? The battery is a motorcraft which was a replacement (6 months ago) for a Bosch battery. The mc battery is 80 amps and this is the first summer season it goes thru.


Hi, Shouldn't cause any problems & 80 amps will be fine especially when winter/cold temps arrives. 
Have the battery connections been checked for security & cleanliness since this incident? If not check them.
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Low fuel pressure can stop the engine but will not cause loss of power to instrument cluster etc.
> Hoggy.


Could it be that the engine somehow lost power for a second which made the ecu give order to shut down the instrument cluster/ac/radio while the engine resumed running for a short while before shutting off? 🤷🏻‍♂️


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Update2: the question can be restated as follows.

What kind of faults/failures cause instrument cluster/ac/radio to shut off while the engine keeps running in slow traffic for the next few minutes then at the next traffic light the engine shuts off and can not be started. Then after 1-2 hours the car starts normally and runs fine for 2 weeks (until now) in similar conditions (very hot weather).


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Your guess is as good as mine, but my guess would be poor connection at battery caused low power, dashpod etc shut down but alternator kept engine running for few minutes. Unlikely but possible which is why I suggested double check battery connections .
These 4 wheeled computers can be a minefield for intermittent probs. Control Alt Delete cures many probs.
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Can I do the following test?
Start the car. Disconnect the battery while the engine is running. Turn on ac on highest setting, turn on all elec components (radio, lights, flasher.. etc) and drive slowly in very hot weather and see if the same problem occurs. Also, check the alternator readings while the battery is disconnected.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Q8audi said:


> Can I do the following test?
> Start the car. Disconnect the battery while the engine is running.


No. Bad idea to disconnect your battery while your car is running.

On an older vehicle you could get away with it since there was little in the way of electronic circuitry but on a modern car you risk damaging your various control modules.

Your alternator is either good or bad. Not likely to fail intermittently. Most likely you have loose, corroded or damaged wiring (main power or ground) Less likely but possible, you have a damaged ECU.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, As above never disconnect battery while engine running.
Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> No. Bad idea to disconnect your battery while your car is running.
> 
> On an older vehicle you could get away with it since there was little in the way of electronic circuitry but on a modern car you risk damaging your various control modules.
> 
> Your alternator is either good or bad. Not likely to fail intermittently. Most likely you have loose, corroded or damaged wiring (main power or ground) Less likely but possible, you have a damaged ECU.


Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately, many shops here locally follow this procedure when replacing a battery. They disconnect the old battery and then install the new battery while the engine is running! 😵‍💫


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Q8audi said:


> Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately, many shops here locally follow this procedure when replacing a battery. They disconnect the old battery and then install the new battery while the engine is running! 😵‍💫


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Better way to do it is to connect a second battery to the jump points under the hood / bonnet. That way you don't lose power and you don't damage sensitive electrical components.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Update2: forgot to attach a screen shot of the error/fault which cleared after changing the fuel filter.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Your ECU is the 'brains' of your car. Loss of power to the brain (for any reason) will cause the brain to do erratic things. Brain (ECU) damage will also cause problems, but due to the cost you'll want to rule out all other possibilities first.

Your low fuel pressure error '_could_' have been a separate but legit problem, it could have been caused by data corruption when you lost power, or possibly a real (momentary) issue when there was no power to run your low pressure (fuel tank) fuel pump.

There is no harm in replacing your filter, but a clogged fuel filter would not cause a power loss any more than a clogged toilet would cause you to lose electricity in your home. Anyway if the error hasn't returned consider that problem fixed and move on.

It may be nothing more than a coincidence, but if the power loss problem only occurs during “_very hot_” weather I'd expect something physical like a defective battery with an internal break (circuit opens as temp causes it to expand). Or a loose ground connection that moves when heated.

Another place to check would be the big power fuses that are attached to the main power bus running in front of the fuse box under your hood / bonnet. Fuses won't be blown but you might find one of them with a hairline crack. Problems like this often get overlooked since they test fine with a meter.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> Your ECU is the 'brains' of your car. Loss of power to the brain (for any reason) will cause the brain to do erratic things. Brain (ECU) damage will also cause problems, but due to the cost you'll want to rule out all other possibilities first.
> 
> Your low fuel pressure error '_could_' have been a separate but legit problem, it could have been caused by data corruption when you lost power, or possibly a real (momentary) issue when there was no power to run your low pressure (fuel tank) fuel pump.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot for the feedback .. great analysis .. I will check what you pointed out and give an update tomorrow.. thanks again.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Ignoring the fuel pressure issue for now...
As that is a completely different fault that is not related
Try taking a look at this thread I made, more than likely the same issue you are experiencing








Dead/Failed - Speedo / Clocks / Dials / Display - FIX -...


Thought I would make this thread to be able to help people who run into this issue in the future, like I did. This is a warning - to give understanding to how this fault presents & how it CAN be fixed This isn't a tutorial and try this at your own risk - not that there should be one, if you use...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Barr_end said:


> Ignoring the fuel pressure issue for now...
> As that is a completely different fault that is not related
> Try taking a look at this thread I made, more than likely the same issue you are experiencing
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info and really appreciate it, but the issue I had was only during that incident and did not happen again. The instrument cluster (including all warning lights)/ac/radio went off shortly before the engine stopped (which after one hour everything went back to normal on its own) and then never happened again since then. The car has been running fine for 2 weeks now since the incident including the instrument cluster/ac/radio.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

An intermittent fault with the ignition switch can cause weird issues.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

tttony said:


> An intermittent fault with the ignition switch can cause weird issues.


Thanks .. I will check this .. just to confirm .. the instrument cluster (including warning lights), air conditioning and radio all went off shortly before the engine shut off .. then 1-2 hours later as soon as the car arrived at the garage the car was back to normal with no intervention and has been running for 2 weeks since then.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

*New important update:*

For a test I parked the car in a very hot direct sun for more than 4 hours.. temp here locally 47-52 degrees Celsius .. because this was the case when the incident mentioned in this thread happened. Exactly the same issue happened. The car runs but the instrument cluster and a/c turn off but the radio still runs. Then, I turned off the ignition and tried to start but it did not start. Waited 15 mins and the car started but with the same symptoms (ins cluster and a/c are shut off).

So, it is confirmed that there is a correlation between parking the car in hot sun for few hours and this issue.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> Your ECU is the 'brains' of your car. Loss of power to the brain (for any reason) will cause the brain to do erratic things. Brain (ECU) damage will also cause problems, but due to the cost you'll want to rule out all other possibilities first.
> 
> Your low fuel pressure error '_could_' have been a separate but legit problem, it could have been caused by data corruption when you lost power, or possibly a real (momentary) issue when there was no power to run your low pressure (fuel tank) fuel pump.
> 
> ...


Update: I checked the fuses in the pic your provided .. no cracks .. also someone checked all the relays and ground wires .. 
For a test I parked the car in a very hot direct sun for more than 4 hours.. temp here locally 47-52 degrees Celsius .. because this was the case when the incident mentioned in this thread happened. Exactly the same issue happened. The car runs but the instrument cluster and a/c turn off but the radio still runs. Then, I turned off the ignition and tried to start but it did not start. Waited 15 mins and the car started but with the same symptoms (ins cluster and a/c are shut off).

So, it is confirmed that there is a correlation between parking the car in hot sun for few hours and this issue.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

If you can, try connecting a second battery using the jump points under the hood / bonnet (don't need to remove your installed battery).
With a second battery connected, check to see if your instrument cluster now works / you can restart your car


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> If you can, try connecting a second battery using the jump points under the hood / bonnet (don't need to remove your installed battery).
> With a second battery connected, check to see if your instrument cluster now works / you can restart your car


Thanks .. I will try this.
Do you think a battery can do this? The current battery is motorcraft (80 amps) and is a replacement for the original type (bosch 90 amps) .. this is the first summer this mc battery goes thru.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Q8audi said:


> Do you think a battery can do this? The current battery is motorcraft (80 amps) and is a replacement for the original type (bosch 90 amps).


Only if your battery (or battery connections) are defective.

Car batteries have two operational specs to consider. First one is '_cold cranking amps_' (CCA) This is the amount of instantaneous power that can be delivered to your starter motor. Big motors and cold climates need a higher rating to ensure reliable starting.

Second spec is '_amp-hours_' (Ah). Is is the amount of stored energy than can be delivered over time.

In your case, your new battery is rated for 80Ah. This means you can expect your battery to deliver 80amps for one hour or 1amp for eighty hours (or some combination that equals 80)

Replacing your 90Ah battery with an 80Ah battery just means you will run out of power sooner if you leave your lights or radio on ( but should have no affect on your current problem)

Since your issue seems to be heat related, I'm thinking something in your power circuit is opening up with mechanical expansion due to heat?


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> Only if your battery (or battery connections) are defective.
> 
> Car batteries have two operational specs to consider. First one is '_cold cranking amps_' (CCA) This is the amount of instantaneous power that can be delivered to your starter motor. Big motors and cold climates need a higher rating to ensure reliable starting.
> 
> ...


Another update:
Just went out as the sun has gone down and car started being in shade, I started the car and everything works fine.. ins clus normal, a/c running fine .. engine running fine!

Did not even have a chance to try connecting another battery. Also, talked to a mechanic/electician .. he asked me to cover the dashboard area with shade and leave the car in the sun and try again tomorrow just to confirm if electronics inside the dashboard/ins cluster might have some loose soldering which when exposed to excessive heat start this issue. If the issue does not occur then there is a big chance the cause has to do with elec boards that need re soldering , otherwise it is something else.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> Only if your battery (or battery connections) are defective.
> 
> Car batteries have two operational specs to consider. First one is '_cold cranking amps_' (CCA) This is the amount of instantaneous power that can be delivered to your starter motor. Big motors and cold climates need a higher rating to ensure reliable starting.
> 
> ...


Where is the “power circuit” located?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Q8audi said:


> Also, talked to a mechanic/electician .. he asked me to cover the dashboard area with shade and leave the car in the sun and try again tomorrow just to confirm if electronics inside the dashboard/ins cluster might have some loose soldiering which when exposed to excessive heat start this issue.


This is quite possible. Vibration can cause soldier joints and circuit board runs to crack, and then those cracks are exploited by temperature change.

Might be hard to do (depending on module location) but one way to troubleshoot these types of problems is to use a can of compressed air (like the kind you use to clean keyboards) and use the can inverted. By inverting the can you can spray a stream of liquid refrigerant onto circuit components to see if chilling them causes a change.



Q8audi said:


> Where is the “power circuit” located?


Power circuit is everything powered via your battery


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Uploaded a pic of the ins cluster being off while the engine is running.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I can't offer much help but I'd recommend getting the car scanned by a VAG specific reader. If your previous scan was generic and just reading engine ECU codes you might be missing something

In general most power if controlled via the central electric module under the steering column. There are some important relays etc there too


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

MT-V6 said:


> I can't offer much help but I'd recommend getting the car scanned by a VAG specific reader. If your previous scan was generic and just reading engine ECU codes you might be missing something
> 
> In general most power if controlled via the central electric module under the steering column. There are some important relays etc there too


Thanks for the feedback. Will do another test in hot weather this afternoon. I will try to get the specialist to bring his test equipment to try to test while the issue is occurring (while the car under the sun).. maybe connect another battery also to exclude the battery possibility.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

New update:
Again today while the car has been in direct sun for few hours with temp around 50 celsius, the same issue occurred as expected. Called someone to come quickly connect another battey and run a scan while the issue exists (before the sun goes down).

1- Connected another battery .. same thing so battery possibility excluded.

2- ran a scan and got the following,


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

please check the above post


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

tttony said:


> An intermittent fault with the ignition switch can cause weird issues.


Can you please check the fault in the above post. Is it related to the ignition switch?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You can look up the fault code (DTC) by running a Google search; "Ross Tech xxxxx" where xxxxx is the fault code. If Ross Tech has that DTC listed, you'll see a link to their Wiki page with more information on what options are available to resolve the fault code.

*00093* - Terminal 15 for Starting Relevant Consumers
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Here's their wiki page for a similar electrical fault -





00576 - Ross-Tech Wiki







wiki.ross-tech.com




If the DTC doesn't show up on their Wiki page, check their *Forum* and run a search for it there.

I found this one that's also asking about DTC *00093* for a VW Golf. Unfortunately it's in Polish, so unless you can read Polish, you'll need to use Google translate -





Forum VW Golf V


Forum Volkswagen Golf V




www.vwgolfv.pl


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You can look up the fault code (DTC) by running a Google search; "Ross Tech xxxxx" where xxxxx is the fault code. If Ross Tech has that DTC listed, you'll see a link to their Wiki page with more information on what options are available to resolve the fault code.
> 
> *00093* - Terminal 15 for Starting Relevant Consumers
> 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
> ...


Thanks 🙏 .. u guys are awesome.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Terminal 15 is an output from the ignition switch. See my post #26. Changing the ignition switch is relatively cheap and easy.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

It's always a good idea to clear all faults first time you run a fault scan so you're not fooled by old faults that were never cleared sometime in the past. After you clear all the faults, drive the car for 10-minutes, then run another auto scan. Anything that shows up or any old fault that returns is a valid fault and needs to be resolved.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> It's always a good idea to clear all faults first time you run a fault scan so you're not fooled by old faults that were never cleared sometime in the past. After you clear all the faults, drive the car for 10-minutes, then run another auto scan. Anything that shows up or any old fault that returns is a valid fault and needs to be resolved.


Thanks for the info .. The faults have already been cleared few days ago (and has been scanned with zero faults after this). So, this is the first scan since then and while the car is having the issue under very hot direct sun.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

tttony said:


> Terminal 15 is an output from the ignition switch. See my post #26. Changing the ignition switch is relatively cheap and easy.


Thanks .. I think I will first try this before I dig deeper into other possible causes.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, A VAG specific scan would be better but this may help.





00576 - Ross-Tech Wiki







wiki.ross-tech.com




Hoggy.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, A VAG specific scan would be better but this may help.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks .. got it .. most probably the cause is the ignition switch (crossing my fingers 🤞) which by the way was replaced two years ago after malfunction where the key could not turn (physical part but not sure if elec part was also replaced). I can not remember however if this is the first time the car sat in direct hot sun since then (shaded parking at home and work).


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

A quick check of the wiring diagram shows Terminal 15 is the name of power switched through Relay 2 (J681). Relay 2 is located on the relay carrier underneath and just left of your steering wheel. Once energized, Terminal 15 feeds power to numerous subsystems (so it makes sense that loss of Term15 would cause lots of problems).

The relay is controlled by your Vehicle Electrical Systems Control Module (J519) which is mounted just above the relay carrier.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to the circuit schematics of the control module itself so I can't advise on what other signals to chase. Since it is switched power, replacing the key-switch is a good place to start.

If replacing the key-switch doesn't fix your problem, I'd consider replacing Relay 2, reseating any associated wiring connectors and give the control module a good look (i.e bad / broken solder connections at the connector headers, etc)


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> A quick check of the wiring diagram shows Terminal 15 is the name of power switched through Relay 2 (J681). Relay 2 is located on the relay carrier underneath and just left of your steering wheel. Once energized, Terminal 15 feeds power to numerous subsystems (so it makes sense that loss of Term15 would cause lots of problems).
> 
> The relay is controlled by your Vehicle Electrical Systems Control Module (J519) which is mounted just above the relay carrier.
> 
> ...


Thanks again .. do you have any pictures for the mentioned components? Or any link to pics.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

J519 control module location









Relay carrier & control module








Relay 2 (terminal 15)


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

FNChaos said:


> J519 control module location
> View attachment 487708
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks so much 🙏


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

FYI you can download the Workshop Manuals and wiring diagrams from the *Knowledge Base*. Click *here*.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> FYI you can download the Workshop Manuals and wiring diagrams from the *Knowledge Base*. Click *here*.


Thanks 🙏


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Read this TSB! Faulty Ignition Switch https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10120704-9999.pdf


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

New update:
Ignition switch (first pic) has been replaced .. same issue still exists..
Next the specialist came while the issue is there and started doing testing .. he isolated a board below the steering wheel (second to forth pics). .. will replace it and check ..

The board cover says abs-pc .. not sure how this can trigger an ignition switch fault (fault 00093)! There is a path (connection) between the ignition switch and this board according to the specialist.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

"The board cover says abs-pc" That refers to the type of plastic that the case is made of. 

PC-ABS (polycarbonate-ABS)


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

tttony said:


> "The board cover says abs-pc" That refers to the type of plastic that the case is made of.
> 
> PC-ABS (polycarbonate-ABS)


Ohhh 😵‍💫🤦‍♂️… thanks
Can u recognize this board?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

8P0 953 549 F
'06-'13 Audi Steering Wheel Control Module Sensor

The 8P0 in this case means it's not TT (8J) specific and is used on other VAG models as well.

Note that the OEM replacement part numbers are often different than the factory fitted OEM parts. So when looking for replacement parts, start with the PN on the parts in your car.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> 8P0 953 549 F
> '06-'13 Audi Steering Wheel Control Module Sensor
> 
> The 8P0 in this case means it's not TT (8J) specific and is used on other VAG models as well.
> ...


Thanks 🙏


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

New update:
After fixing the mentioned board (in prev post)
, we had to disconnect the battery and reconnect it. Now the signals/high light beam are not working .. also getting different warning lights (esp, wheel pressure .. etc ) on the dashboard!
So, could this be due to battery disconnecting where I have to reset the system!? Or maybe something wrong with the board fix (one ic was replaced)?


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

Have you driven the car yet? A few mins driving will clear the abs esp tpms lights. 
As for the other lights, don’t know!


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## MarkTheShark (9 mo ago)

Could just need some coding/ adaptation doing.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Jezzie said:


> Have you driven the car yet? A few mins driving will clear the abs esp tpms lights.
> As for the other lights, don’t know!


I will try this .. as for the signal lights the guy told me there is prob a connector that was left out !


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

MarkTheShark said:


> Could just need some coding/ adaptation doing.


Seems like it partially (warning lights) .. but the signal lights/high beam prob related to left out connector during re installation of the board.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

New update:
connecter fixed and signal light/high beam came back. Tested the car in very hot sun and the problem has been solved. However, now getting the warning lights (esp, traction, tire pressure .. etc) on dashboard although all faults have been cleared.


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

New update: 
Is it true that when replacing the above mentioned board, the programming has to be done online and thru an authorized Audi dealership?


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Q8audi said:


> New update:
> Is it true that when replacing the above mentioned board, the programming has to be done online and thru an authorized Audi dealership?


Anyone has knowledge about this?


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## Q8audi (7 mo ago)

Update:
Problem seems to have been solved. Steering module board was replaced as well as sensor for steering angle (not sure if this was damaged during replacement).
1- Replaced steering module board. Hot direct sun related problem solved but dashboards lights came on.
2- Replaced sensor for steering angle and dashboard lights went away.

Hope this fix stays 🤞. Thanks everyone.


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## VBivol (5 mo ago)

Hi I have the same problem whit my car like you. I have Audi A30 2009year cabrio.
After you changing this part your problem was solved? and if yes can you tell me the code of this part that you changed 
Thank you!


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