# Good Polish for Silver TT for that wet look?



## p7 TTj (Feb 14, 2008)

Could anyone point me in the direction of a good polish for a Silver TT that gives a wet look.

Tried several on my car and as commented on by others you can never get a nice deep shine from a silver car as you can from a darker colour car.

My car always seems to be look best when just hosed off after a good wash.

Cheers
Jon


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## bigsyd (Jul 9, 2008)

p7 TTj said:


> Could anyone point me in the direction of a good polish for a Silver TT that gives a wet look.
> 
> Tried several on my car and as commented on by others you can never get a nice deep shine from a silver car as you can from a darker colour car.
> 
> ...


i have some nice waxes you can try john.. Swissvax Best of Show.. Zymol Concours.. Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Paste Wax
and a few more..just take them and try b4 you buy  ...BUT no matter how much money you spend on a wax, unless the car is prepped.. ie clayed... machine polished..you will not get the best from your wax
i have seen silver cars looking like the paint has a coating of clear wet gel on them the paint looks so wet 8) silver needs more work to get it looking its best...but on the flip side..its the best for hiding paint flaws


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## gazzerb (Oct 20, 2008)

I have a good system for a decent wet look
will reply properly when on pcy


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

Turtle wax ice gives a good wet look.


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## Guest (Nov 7, 2009)

My car has a great wet look!

It never stops frickin raining on it :x


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## Hardrhino (Apr 30, 2009)

Hey P7

Sure Bobski will be ok with me sharing this..... I asked the same thing a while back.
He sent me this and believe me it works a treat.... Photo Below Embarrased the Aston.....

The trick to getting that deep wet look is in the preperation aswell as the products.

The washing of the car is to remove the visable dirt from the car. You will remove the existing products once you clay the car. Which will remove the contaminants from the paint which will be embeded in the paint.

I only do this format once a year as thats all it really needs. Once you have done it just some regular waxing will keep it looking tip top condition all year. And keeps that glossy look whilest it protects your paint.

Here is how i do mine:
Wheels:
Virosol the wheels first and agitate it with brush. I use a plastic bath brush for inside if the wheels.
Rinse off

Paint:
Bucket wash you TT with Johnstons Baby Bath (the blue bottle)
Rinse off
Clay bar with lub spray ( do this in straight lines)
Rinse off
Dry car with drying cloth (not shammy as it can scratch you paint)
Polish one panel at a time. (Micro fibre to apply (buff when dry))
Glaze (Micro fibre to apply (wipe before almost dry)
Sealant (Micro fibre to apply (buff when dry))
Wax ( buff when dry)

Takes me about 5-6 hrs to do this... 

Autoglm Super resine polish
Meguires Claybar Kit
Meguires 7 show glaze
Meguires 21 Sealant
Collinite 476S Wax

The Collinite 476s is detergent resistant and stays on for longer. It was conpared to the Swiss Vax Best in Show Wax which is £130. The 476S is only £20-25. Bargin in my books and provides a get wet look.

RESULT!


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## BLinky (Jul 3, 2009)

unlike any or all others crystal rock works on silver. but is pricey as hell and takes some serious prep time. get a diff colour next time


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## bobski (Oct 21, 2007)

Hardrhino said:


> Hey P7


Hey Hardrhino,

Looking great ...  I Take it you are happy with the results.? (I would be :lol: )


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## CamV6 (Oct 26, 2003)

The 'key' to what you want is two fold

1. Preparation, of course. Good wash, clay-bar and re-wash.

2. Do NOT use carnuba waxes on silver. They tend to dull the metallic fleck IMO and work well on darker colours and flat colours. For silver, the answer is to use sythetic waxes, often referred to as paint sealants or polymer waxes.

Personally, my preference is to use Klasse AIO (all - in - one) which is a poilsh/cleaner and a sealant followed by another sealant of choice. Personally I use Wolfgang 'Deep gloss' paint sealant. Its by far the best combo I've had over Swissvax and Collinite and the like. Very wet deep gloss finish. I spent a fortune on different waxes and never got the finish I was after until using synthetics.

Also, do two or three coats of sealant, you WILL notice an gain when layering (NB you cant layer the Klasse AIO as its a cleaner but of course you can layer any pure sealant.

Word to the megs fans - dont use the no.7 glaze before the sealant as the sealant wont bond over the glaze


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## Hardrhino (Apr 30, 2009)

Cam... Are your findings from years of professional experience or years of trial and error?

You say 'IMO' and 'Personally' and 'Preference', thats just what this all is, personal preference IMO... 

As you can see from the pic a deep, wet, glossy look can be happily achieved with Bob's method. 

As for the Sealant over the Glaze i know a number of people use this same method with great results.

Now feel free to tell me your a professional valeter and i know squat!


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## Sublime (Jul 14, 2009)

CamV6 said:


> Do NOT use carnuba waxes on silver. They tend to dull the metallic fleck IMO and work well on darker colours and flat colours.


Interesting, does this apply to all metallics as I've found using Dodo Juice - Banana Armour on my metallic red TT brings out the colour and makes the flecks seem brighter and float in the good depth it gives to the paint finish?


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## ahaydock (Sep 19, 2006)

Take a look at this: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=141725

It is what I did on our Silver VW Fox (I know its not a TT but it gives you an idea). It details the process and products and is what I plan to do when my TT arrives toward the end of the year.


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## kent_keith (Mar 5, 2007)

Hi guys, bought a g220, some meg Ultimate compound, and a W8207b Soft buff 2.0, do I need to avoid anything or can I use this product safely over plastic trim, metal (fuel cover) and such like?
Any advice appreciated

Keith


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## gazzerb (Oct 20, 2008)

HI mate
someone on here gave me this system and its awsome i couldnt belive how wet the car looked

i got the stuff from cleanyourcar.co.uk

was it first with a decent wash i used car-lack 68
then dry it
then clay bar it with a sonus ultra fine (yellow rec megulars spray as a lub)
then use ez glaze acrylic shine 
buff that off then give it two coats of dodo juice (rainforest rub)
also get your self some decent cloths and a microfibre sponge

when i did the above to mine i was shocked it looked like no other silver car i had seen before!


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## redsi72 (Nov 13, 2006)

as everyone has said, prep is key. After detailing loads of cars now, i have found that a glaze under a sealant/wax makes a massive difference. The wax itself doesnt offer that much to the final look. So for silvers, buying waxes such as BOS cant be justified IMO

Si


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## wallstreet (Oct 19, 2009)

CamV6 said:


> The 'key' to what you want is two fold
> 
> 1. Preparation, of course. Good wash, clay-bar and re-wash.
> 
> ...


Klasse is known for some reason as Carlack68 Longlife or the Nano, it is the longlife that is to be layered on after using the Collinite, I recommend it too having had a Silver car..wet look is established and enhanced over time...


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## CamV6 (Oct 26, 2003)

Hardrhino said:


> Cam... Are your findings from years of professional experience or years of trial and error?
> 
> You say 'IMO' and 'Personally' and 'Preference', thats just what this all is, personal preference IMO...
> 
> ...


Years of trial and error AND advice from many professionals including a top man (i forget his name, the guy with the prosthetic leg who does the "macjine polising for show car results" videos) who I've personally discussed it with.

Glaze is a final product. Its heavy in oils etc and a sealant over the top will not bond as well and have the same longevity. I was just trying to be helpful. Do it whatever way you want! 

Wallstreet - yes you are 100% correct klasse and carlack are basically the same escept carlack is much less expensive! I've not used the carlack version myself hence why I didnt mention it as I didnt want to vouch for something I've ne experience of.

One thing though, you wax on top of sealant, not seal on top of wax. A natural wax will go fine over a synthetic sealant but a synthetic sealant wont go well over a wax. It wont bond properly and it might (stress might because I know this only from anecdotal reports) cause a streaky final effect.


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## wallstreet (Oct 19, 2009)

> Years of trial and error AND advice from many professionals including a top man (i forget his name, the guy with the prosthetic leg who does the "macjine polising for show car results" videos) who I've personally discussed it with.
> 
> Glaze is a final product. Its heavy in oils etc and a sealant over the top will not bond as well and have the same longevity. I was just trying to be helpful. Do it whatever way you want!
> 
> ...


I agree... heres something to link over to as its worthwhile in showing long term tests on what we are talking about and we both agree on Collinite476s double layer proven to outlast others at a fraction of the cost!!!! Then layer with Carlack68, best place so far i have bought so far is cleanyourcar.co.uk

The Link to detailing is http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=155338 which is to do with testing done on a detailing site... very interesting

Ciao ciao for now


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## gazzerb (Oct 20, 2008)

this was mine when i tried the wet look, pics dont do it justice really


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## Shyde (Oct 7, 2008)

Here is my wet look, After Washing, Clayed, Machine polished using Menzerna Power Gloss, Final Finish Then Sealed using FinishKare High Temp Sealant.


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## stevebeechTA (May 16, 2009)

Herte is mine after a quick polish


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## alexisgt (Apr 10, 2009)

> Here is how i do mine:
> Wheels:
> Virosol the wheels first and agitate it with brush. I use a plastic bath brush for inside if the wheels.
> Rinse off
> ...


very good result!

you do this by hand or with a polisher (g220 etc)?


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## Hardrhino (Apr 30, 2009)

alexisgt said:


> very good result!
> 
> you do this by hand or with a polisher (g220 etc)?


By Hand. Hard work but worth it for the end result....


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