# TT MK1 Project - ITALY



## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

(i'll repost this from TT MK1 section, thanks to 1781cc user)

Hi,
first of all thank you for the forum and sorry for my bad english.
As i say, i'm writing from Italy, the italian TT forum isn't very used and i'ts quite hard to find information, so i really hope to find help here.

Last week with some friends we bought a 03/2000 Audi TT Mk1 with some mod on it:
- APY Engine 210 bhp taken from S3 - 120.000 km appr.
- Revo stage 2 Ecu remapped
- Siliconic intake
- Bonalume popoff valve
- Bmc air filter
- Increased intercooler
- Revised k04 turbine
- Exhaust vapor oil recovery system (done with an empty coffee barrel and some John guests connector ???)
- Eibach springs, bilstein b8 and other equipment parts (not listed to not boring you).

We bought the car as a "closed box", our focus it's making a car for having fun on track, no competition or professional or agonism.

First work done on saturday:
- We removed all the internal, backseats, fabrics, plastics (as shown in photo)

Sunday we went on a small track near our house, it's a quite slow gokart track but for use was perfect to test the car and let the problems go out:

-First one: the "coffee barrel" vapor oil system, starts after few laps gushing from the top (i don't know why buth it wasn't closed on the top, there was a 0,5 cm hole). Closed this one, the problems seems to be solved but this DIY system must be revised
-Second one: After 20 laps (1 laps is quite 900m) a coolant hose break down, it wasn't a siliconic one, maybe still a stock one. We lost all our water and we go home with the towtruck.

So, i have a lot of questions for you and if someone wants to partecipate to this project (well, through the forum!) i'll happy to listen and learn. I'll start with two question:
-Due to the coolant hose breakdown, we're going to change all the coolant hose kit, except from the "Forge fmkctt225" are there some options?

-I'd like to "talk" with the ecu through vag system (of course i don't want to remap or touching parameters), i've found a vag software but now i'm not shure if with a cable like this https://goo.gl/86dh9S i'll be able to talk with the ecu. Saturday i've tried with a simply "OBD2 wireless reader" (that works fine on my car with torque app or dashcommand app) but no signal, could be due to the revo modification?

-We're going to remove the AC system, i've found that the belt that we need to mount after is the Dayco 450k6, but i still haven't found it in Europe, only in the Usa. Is there another option or must i continue in searching?
(User 1781cc says that i need the TT quattrosport belt from the non-air on car, but actually i cannot find it)

Well, i think that for now it's all.
Thanks a lot to everyone and sorry if i have asked for questions that already had a topic, please remind me there if you can.

Greetings from italy!


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Some updates:

-We've removed the AC system, and we found a belt that fits perfectly

-While we're waiting for the shipment of the coolant hose siliconic kit (red one from Forge), we're going to remove SAI, EVAP, n249 and n112 valve. I bought 4 resistor (330 ohm, 10 watt) and a Forge block plates. Hope that we had no problems with the ecu

-We're also going to relocate the battery and put a cutoff switch in it.

Other updates in next days.

Bye


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nice, all good updates, more pics!!


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

1781cc said:


> Nice, all good updates, more pics!!


As you can see, there's no too much to show actually!
We're still waiting for the coolant hose kit and actually our engine is quite dismantled!

We're also trying to work with fyberglass, we made an experiment on a plastic part over the wheel but probably is failed.
Other experiment in the next week, our focus is to be able to make a fiberglass bonnet!

Some updates in the next day

Ps: someone can help me with Elsawin? i'm still unable to make it working on my Win10 pc

Bye


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Don't make a fibreglass bonnet, cut the inner skin out of your one and use pins to hold it down. Its cheaper and most probably lighter, makes the bonnet weight about 5.9kg in total.

by the way, you should join this:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/334506553567722/


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

1781cc said:


> Don't make a fibreglass bonnet, cut the inner skin out of your one and use pins to hold it down. Its cheaper and most probably lighter, makes the bonnet weight about 5.9kg in total.
> 
> by the way, you should join this:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/334506553567722/


as always, thank you. I'll keep that in mind for the future, by now we're focusing on the engine

finally we have received the coolant hose kit, tonight we're going to mount it.

what about SAI, Evap, n112 and n249?
do i simply have to put a resistor or there's something else that i must do? especially with SAI and n112.
have you removed the Combi valve?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Blank the SAI hole off where it connects to the block, other then that it's pretty straight forward. You can either fit resistors to the redundant plugs or you can have them mapped out, in any case it's no big deal and won't stop the car running properly if you do neither.

Like where the project is going, keep asking the questions and we will all help where we can!


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Hi guys,
as always thanks for your interest.

Updates from 18/09.
-Coolant hose silicone kit mounted (well, the kit was formed by 13 pieces, we've mounted only 11  , i really don't know why!)
-We've removed the black bar which was under the AC system and rebuild the steering liquid hoses
-We've connected the 2 front reinforcement whit a baggage rack on which we've mounted at the bottom the intercooler and at the top a steering radiator (see photos)

Question for you.
We've seen that the blue silicone air intake manifold is quite broken, we're going to paste it but it's a temporary solution. Except from the one from forge (FM225IND) are there any alternatives? Is there a way to use something with less hoses? I've see that REVO makes some kit but i've found it only for newer engine (our is a 1999 APY). With the focus to clean up our engine, we're looking for the simpliest configuration and so we're searching for a intake manifold without air return o stuff like that.

Thanks for your attention!


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Updates: 13/10/2017
Finally, some updates. A really busy september!

So, new upgrades: (all photo in attachments)
-Sabelt racing seats (ex rally) mounted
-Toora six point seat belts
-Battery relocated to the trunk (the battery it's still the factory one, hope to replace it asap) with battery switch
-Homemade vapor oil recovery box with filter
-Vapor oil recovery sistem rebuild with hew hoses
-Air intake system rebuild, new hoses,thermal tape, bmc CDA filter
-Modified front bumper
-Omp steering wheel
-General cleaning and hoses removal in engine compartment.

Can't wait to test it this sunday!
Hope eveything works well!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nice work! thats some serious airflow into the bumper as well. Another one deleting the front crashbar, I think I am going to have to do the same, all the kids are doing it now...


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Results of our weekend test.
Finally we've made a lot of km, approx 150 in 2 days, splitted into 15 minutes sessions.

Impressions:
-First of all, everything works fine. After the removal of a lot of valves and hoses, we were quite scared about ecu errors or power cutting, but nothing of this happen.
-Temperature: always between 90° C and 105 C° (this expecially around midday), the outside temp was around 19°c and 25°c, we're still having some issues whit cooling, especially if we consider future summer session. The gauge is completely unreliable, while the temp showed by the 49C code on AC it's the same as taken with the diagnostic, so we take that as landmark.
-The steering wheel is perfect! really nice feeling with this OMP.

Negative notes:
-On sunday we've broke the after run coolant pump. Actually we've remove it, but we're not shure if we need to replace this piece or not. Any advice?
-Some braking issues. During some sessions, the braking pedal blocked (as a lack of depression?), quite instantaneously. After and before everything works fine. Servo brakes problems? We're thinking about servo brakes removal, anyone has ever made this?

Next upgrade:
-Servo brakes?
-Still working on coolant system
-Polycarbonate windows

Thanks for your attention!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

TT_Italy said:


> -Some braking issues. During some sessions, the braking pedal blocked (as a lack of depression?), quite instantaneously. After and before everything works fine. Servo brakes problems? We're thinking about servo brakes removal, anyone has ever made this?


Wooden Pedal! Basically on a tight twisty track you can deplete the vacuum reservoir which feeds the brake servo and hence lose assistance. The easiest way around this is to increase the capacity by adding a second canister.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Check the vacuum pipe from the engine to the servo for cracks and splits. I found 3 different splits on my pipe. The worst was where the plastic pipe joins a one way valve behind the alloy heat shield at the back of the engine compartment. I suspect it gets pretty toasty behind there which wouldn't help.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=341809


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Hi guys,
we're doing some cleaning on electrical wiring,
anyone of you has ever removed (with its cables) the Comfort Control Module ?

I don't know too much about it, what this unit control?

Thanks!


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Hi just reading through the thread looking for any updates and noticed something I missed the first time. That battery in the rear looks pretty dangerous to me. They weigh about 15Kg and god forbid you ever got in an accident it is very easy to experience 10 or 15g which would effectively mean the battery would weigh 150-225Kg and those brackets and strap don't look man enough to retain that battery.
It could then become a missile inside the car travelling at speed. 
On another note the CCM controls a lot of functionality in the car for things such as central locking, interior lights , boot release fuel flap release ETC.
Heres some of the wiring diagram.

View attachment AUDI CCM WIRING.pdf


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Hi just reading through the thread looking for any updates and noticed something I missed the first time. That battery in the rear looks pretty dangerous to me. They weigh about 15Kg and god forbid you ever got in an accident it is very easy to experience 10 or 15g which would effectively mean the battery would weigh 150-225Kg and those brackets and strap don't look man enough to retain that battery.
> It could then become a missile inside the car travelling at speed.
> On another note the CCM controls a lot of functionality in the car for things such as central locking, interior lights , boot release fuel flap release ETC.
> Heres some of the wiring diagram.
> ...


Thanks for your reply!
In order:
-The battery straps are just a temporary solution, we're building a metal cage to contain it and we're going to change our battery with a small one
-As you can see in photo,we have dismantled wiring section, and we've removed:
-radio/cd charger/amplifier/speakers wires
-car doors wires (both passengere and driver side).
-internal courtesy lamp wires, cigarette lighters, bonnet catch wires, seat warmers wires.

We just want to keep dashpod,ac display (for AC code) and blinkers, but we stopped earlier. 
Airbag ecu removed, Comfort control module still on (but with a lot of missing wires)

At this point we've to stop our work, follow the wires paths it's not so easy unless to remove quite everything and reposition only the essential, maybe in future we go on with this work. We've tried an engine run and eveything ok, except from the fuel cap that automatically open at each startup. (quite funny,i know!)

New problem, our pop off (or bypass) valve (a Bonalume 25mm), it's gone. It's a 2001 model, with a lot of problems, and we need to change it now. It's stille the forge split-r the best solution or we have to look somewhere else?

As always, sorry for my bad english.
As always, thanks to everyone that wants to help.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Forge 008 looks to be the same style as the valve you have.


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

desertstorm said:


> Forge 008 looks to be the same style as the valve you have.


Yes, our is a 100% recirculation.

Except from "noise", main advantages of a 100% recirculation compared to a 30% out as the Split-r (is the Split-r a 30%out and 70% recirculated, that's true?)

Thanks


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

You don't want to use a split R dump valve they can cause all kinds of issues . The engine works much better with a recirculating valve.


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Also on the CCM front, I trashed mine off, gutted all the wires and rewired the only thing that was essential (the petrol release) to a momentary switch. The rest is all gone, no aircon, no windy windows, no central locking, none of that... blinkers still work because thats relay controlled.

It was a massive pain to do and I had an electrician check it and fix a few things I had cut wrong, but its worth it because you save a lot of hassle identifying actual used wiring in future.

FYI, boot release is still operational, I fed the cable through to the front and trashed the electric motor off


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## Rob180bhp (Oct 8, 2017)

TT_Italy said:


> Hi guys,
> as always thanks for your interest.
> 
> Updates from 18/09.
> ...


Any more information with the intercooler

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Rob180bhp said:


> TT_Italy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi guys,
> ...


sorry, i haven't understand!


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Some news, and some question.
Photos in the next day!

-We've throw away or Bonalume DV valve and we putted on a Forge Splitter valve..a total failure. Even when closed, it leaks air from the body of the valve. I don't know if it's a defective one or if it's a problem of the valve itself. Now i've start the return procedure with the seller. I'll go to replace it with a Forge 008.
-Finally we've removed window, electrics and panel from the door. We made plexiglass window and they're perfect!

-In this week i'll started a project: the target is to get live data from the OBD port and show them in real time on a display in the car. The mainly ones are the basic ones, like coolant temp, voltage, air intake temp etc etc. I've found some project/tutorial online (stuff like this http://www.instructables.com/id/OBD-Pi/) made with raspberry and bluetooth (elm327) adapter, but nowadays, after a week of trying, no results. I've also tried to connect raspberry with the vag com cable, but neither this work. I've seen on the forum that there are some old posts where you were talking about a project like this, but nothing work. (I've got basic skills in programming)
If can be useful, the same bluetooth adapter works fine on my car (a Fiat one) with android app like Torque or similar, but it doesn't work with the same app and same configuration on the TT. The first thing that i'm pointing its' a different baud rate, but i'm not sure of this
Any help would be, as always, really appreciated!

greetings from italy (and as always sorry for my bad english)


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## TT_Italy (Aug 26, 2017)

Hi guys, and happy new year.

Finally here again after a couple of time, time spent in driving the car on rainy/snowy/icy tarmac (and crashing the front bumper into a pile of snow!) and testing the components (powertrack insert, new exhaust line, new dv).

Now it's time to get some upgrade.
First of all: *rollbar and rollcage*. Between january and february we're going to empty the car and bring it to a rollbar manufacturer. Cleaning + installing a 6 point cage + repaint (only the solded parts) approx 4500€

*Electronics*: we're going, of course, to remove everything but we still dont'know if we have to put back together it's original ecu+wiring+dashboard or replace it whit a racing one. We're actually focused on AEM Infinity ecu + infinity wiring harnesses + display. We choose AEM Infinity because it's compatible with haldex 1st gen (but i might be wrong)

*Haldex* question: someone knows if there are any alternatives? Ever heard of something like this? (replace with torsen or similar)

Thanks for your times and greetings from italy!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

TT_Italy said:


> Hi guys, and happy new year.
> 
> Finally here again after a couple of time, time spent in driving the car on rainy/snowy/icy tarmac (and crashing the front bumper into a pile of snow!) and testing the components (powertrack insert, new exhaust line, new dv).
> 
> ...


Hi, I really think you need to post on the facebook Track TT group as there will be people with much more technical knowledge able to help with the questions about Haldex replacement and racing wiring setups. One of the guys (Paul Hand) actually deleted his haldex setup entirely and races the car as a FWD TT with good results. I think replacing with a torsen setup is probably too expensive and a logistical nightmare, wiring, ecu, props, etc... Also, Max Clesca (also on here) knows a lot about LSDs with these things

BTW, that cage at 4500 euros seems like a very large sum of money - is that right? 4500?


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## poghead (Apr 19, 2013)

Good updates so far! How are you faring in track days/races against similar cars?

Pog

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