# How to: Oil & Filter Change 2.5 ltr TFSI (TTRS)



## Demessiah (Jan 27, 2009)

I know this will be known to many but I havnt seen a guide on here so thought I would do a write up on my weekends activity so those who have never attempted this before can have a go for themselves. This will cover an oil and filter change on a TTRS but the basics should be good for any mkII TT.

Changing your oil is one of the easiest things you can do to your car and also one of the most important. My old grandad who used to work in the trade once told me that as long as an engine has a regular oil and filter change it will run forever and that has always stuck with me.

Oil not only lubricates the engine but it also flushes out any contaminates so regular oil changes are a must. I realise that many will just stick with the regular service schedule and get their oil changes done with the service but I like to change the oil every 5000 miles. Obviously the oil will be good for much longer than this and will still have all its lubricating properties at 5000 but as the oil is picking up contaminates it will thicken. I like to get this oil out regularly to stop any sludge building up. Anyone who has ripped open an old engine or one that has had less than regular oil changes will know what I mean about this sludge. It will cover everything.

Why do it yourself? 
1. Its easy and nothing will get you the satisfaction that working on your car will. You create a bond with your car that having someone else do the work just wont do.
2. Do you really trust a garage? Good oil is expensive. How do you know that the £50 worth of oil you paid for was not just some cheapo £15 stuff?
3. Nobody cares about your car as much as you do, changing your oil will give you a good chance to have a look under your car and spot any other potential problems that the garage would not care about.

Firstly I would like to apologise about the state of filth that my car is. Washing the car was tomorrows job 

Tools and parts needed

1. Jack (do not use the jack that comes in the boot. Google "widowmaker jack" and you will see why)
2. Axle stands, You only get one life. DO NOT go under any car without stands!!
3. 18mm socket and wrench
4. T25 + T30 Torx bits and suitable screwdriver to attach them to
5. M8 Triple square bit
6. 76mm Filter cup wrench http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255216
7. 6 litres of good oil. I used Mobil 1 ESP 5w/30
8. Oil filter
9. Sump drain plug with captive washer










Jack the car up and get it on the axle stands, You will need a good flat surface to do this and please don't do it on the road. Would you really want to be under the car if someone bumped into you? You can see I used 2 jacks aswell as the stands. I like to have a good safety net if anything went wrong.










You need a good place to put the axle stands, these looked nice and solid so I put them here. Just jack the car up. Put the stands in, then slowly lower the car till the weight is securely on the stands. Once done give the car a shake and make sure it all feel solid and will not fall off the stands.










This stage is optional

This is the first oil change I have done on this car and looking at its service history it (as expected) had not had the oil changed as regularly as I would have done so I decide to help the oil flush out any build up that may have happened.

I bought some Wynns engine flush to get it all out. You just pour the whole can into the oil and let it run at about 1500rpm for 15 mins. This will breakdown any sludge and it will come out when the oil is drained. Some people hate this stuff but im a big fan but only for the first change. Once you get into the habit of a regular 5k oil change there will be no build-up so there is no need to use it again.

Pour it into the car and get it running, I wedged a towel on the accelerator pedal to get the desired rpm then got to work on the rest of the change and came back and turned off the engine after 15mins.










The first job is to remove the plastic part of the undertray, Its under the engine right at the front to the car. Held on by about 10 T25 torx screws. Undo these and remove the tray and put it to one side.










Now you will be able to see the oil filter. DO NOT remove it now or you will get oil everywhere! We need to drain the oil first and to do that we need to go to the next stage.










We now need to get to the sump drain plug and to do this we need to remove the metal part of the undertray. It is held on by some T30 torx bolts and one M8 triple square bolt. (mine was missing the triple square, see what I mean about not trusting garages!)

These can be seriously hard to remove. They seem to be very stubborn to get off, I think it would be a good idea to spray on some penetrating fluid and leave it for a few mins to make it easier. Use a good quality bit as you don't want to damage the bolts. Remove all the T30 bolts then finally the triple square bolt. Pull the tray out and put it to one side.








The T30 were on so tight my first crappy bit sheared off, good job I had a better one in my kit.










Now we can see the sump drain plug.










Get down some cardboard and something to catch all the oil. I used an oil drain can designed specially for the job and its great, was about £6.

Now use a 18mm socket and undo the drain plug. It will spill out so try push the plug in as you undo it, this will stop it dripping. When you remove it the oil will spray out about 20cm forward because of the pressure. As the pressure dissipates the oil will fall out more vertically so keep an eye on it and make sure your drain can is in the right place.

It will take a minimum of 15 mins for all the oil to drain out. Try leave it as long as possible for all the drips to come out. This is another good reason to do this job yourself as many garages wont wait for the oil to drain out fully. Leave it dripping and get on with the next stages of the job.










I bought a new washer for the drain plug but I couldn't remove the old one, I have since been told that they now use a drain plug with the washer attached so you will need to buy the whole part from Audi. I wasn't able to so I just cleaned up my old one and decided to reuse it.










Now we can remove the oil filter. You can see a plastic retainer that is clipped on. Just unclip this and use the filter wrench to undo the filter.

The filter will still be full of oil so be aware of this. Put down some extra cardboard and take off the filter.










Now we have the filter off. Pull out the actual filter from the holder and throw it away. Now we need to remove the O ring and clean up the filter holder. You can see a little tab on the ring, get some pliers and just pull it out.

Now get all the old oil off the filter holder. DO NOT use water but just get a lint free cloth and give it a good wipe.








One clean filter holder 










Your new filter should contain a new O ring as well as the new filter.

Get a bit of the new oil and rub it all over the O ring then put it into the filter holder making sure that you have the removal tab facing outwards and make sure the ring is seated properly.










Now pop the new filter into the holder and make sure its seated properly.










We now need to prime the filter. Just pour some oil inside the filter and wait for it to soak in. Try get as much oil as you can into the filter.

Get a bit of oil on your finger and rub it around the top of the filter.

Now we are ready to start putting it all back together..

1. Replace sump drain plug
2. Replace oil filter
3. Replace the undertrays

Just the opposite of taking them out.

Before replacing the undertrays I like to give them a good clean. This way if anything is leaking from the engine you will be able to see stains on them the next time you take them off.

Now jack the car up again and remove the axle stands, then lower the car down to the ground, you want to be on a level surface when filling the car with oil.










Remove the oil filler cap and start filling with oil. Do it slowly and keep checking on the level with the dipstick. To do this pull the dipstick out. Clean it with a lint free cloth and replace it into the engine. Pull it out again and now see where the oil goes upto on the indicator.










You want the level to be right on the max mark. DO NOT overfill! Running a car with too much oil can be as bad as running it with low oil. Keep checking regularly as you fill the oil. Remember that everytime you check it you will need to clean the dipstick.

Once you get it on the Max mark replace the filler cap and go for a drive. Come back and check the level again just to make sure its still where it should be.

THATS IT JOB DONE 

Total time to do everything = about 1 hour (less when experienced)
Job difficulty = Easy, even a 10 year old could do it 

If I have missed anything out or got anything wrong just let me know and I will edit it


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

Really good write up there 

I did an oil change on mine fairly recently but didn't have the time to do a write up. This should be put in the knowledge base for future reference to everyone. I am dubious about engine flush myself, some people swear by it but something I don't do. I tend to flush the old oil out by pouring in half a litre of fresh out and watch it drain out until it goes clear. Good job!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Good write up.

Two immediate things:

That retainer on the oil filter allows access to the filter drain point for which you need the VAG Oil Filter Drain Tool.
First on the Google list was http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-5161-Filt ... B005I4YBB2. I'm sure there are both better and cheaper available. Drain the filter housing before unscrewing it, saves mess and oil up your arm!

I would have put at least some new oil in before replacing the undertrays in order to prove that the sump plug was oil tight.

The sump plug washer is often difficult to remove as it distorts and the inside diameter becomes smaller than the thread OD. 
If Audi now sell the washer complete with the sump plug I'd by pass them and just get an appropriately sized copper washer. Plenty of places to get them.


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## powerplay (Feb 8, 2008)

Thanks for that, very comprehensive I enjoyed reading!


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## minttt (Jul 18, 2008)

Great 'HOW TO'!!

Any specific comments on fitting the filter-housing seal, or on making sure it stays seated/fitted correctly when screwing the housing/filter back into place?
(this is based on recent VW Service on mine, where I had subsequent oil leak due to the seal not being seated properly)

Also based on this experience, personally would leave the undertrays off at first (as per brittan), fill up with oil and run engine up to temperature, and then give it some revs to hit higher oil pressure also.. then check for any leaks (both at sump-plug and filter housing) before replacing undertrays. Better safe than sorry


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## hugy (Dec 4, 2007)

Very good write up.
Well done.  
Think I might give it a go soon.


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## TT-TOM (Feb 15, 2012)

I'm not a fan of engine flush, if you want to flush the oil out that badly just do 2 consecutive oil changes.

My worry has always been that it will disturb sludge and crap and block the oil pickup pipe (on high milage cars) and you will never get all of the engine flush contaminated oil out so now the fresh oil you have put in will also have a bit of engine flush in it which may make it less effective at protecting your engine.

That's is just my opinion though, I'm sure in the real world it may make no difference.

I've also never heard of people soaking the new element in oil, suppose it can't hurt anything but with engines with the filter on the top it's impossible to do it anyway


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, I have always filled filters with oil, cartridge or canisters, unusual to get upside down cartridge type. 
Upside down canisters may make a little mess if not extra quick/careful, but better than having no oil press when engine first starts, until filter fills with oil.
Hoggy.


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## TT-TOM (Feb 15, 2012)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, I have always filled filters with oil, cartridge or canisters, unusual to get upside down cartridge type.
> Upside down canisters may make a little mess if not extra quick/careful, but better than having no oil press when engine first starts, until filter fills with oil.
> Hoggy.


Yea but they fill up so quickly it probably makes little difference but every little helps protect the engine I suppose, I think more often than not modern cars have the filter the other way up on the top of the engine so this can't be done anyway.

In fact I've never seen a paper element style filter on the underside of the car, they have always been above.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Brilliant write-up. Your Grandad was right then, and still 100 percent right now.

I still do 5k oil changes since I am very anal about such things!

I have a vacuum sucker which I use on an A4 1.8t to pull out the oil. On this car, which is the B8 shape, the oil filter is also at the top, meaning no jacking up for an oil change.

My question is this. From your experiences would you say the oil filter canister on the RS could be removed without raising the car or removing the plastic under tray?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I like the write-up, pictures and all.

Every 5k miles an oil change is overkill IMHO, unless those were 5k Nurburgring miles or 5k traffic jam miles or 5k pizza delivery miles. Otherwise 10k miles should do no harm at all.

Even with the oil filter pre-filled, don't touch the accelerator after starting the engine until the oil pressure light is off. Real anal people pull a fuse (like the fuel pump fuse) so that the engine won't start at all. They crank the engine until the oil pressure available. Only then they put the fuse back and actually start the engine.

One thing makes me wonder a bit: The point at which you put your axle stands.... That looks like rather thin aluminium to me. Will micro cracks develop as a result of putting half the weight of the car on these points? I think I'd rather drive the car up two not too steep ramps instead.

Anyhow, good you've taken the time to do the write up.

Oh and only drain the oil when it's hot, don't burn yourself and ensure the container is big enough... That last one I had to learn the hard way....


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## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

Brilliant right up, very informative. Definitely given me the motivation to have a go.

What sort of stuff do you get the garage to do then, an what do you do about a stamp in the book for an oil change? Obviously I know it's better to do it yourself to be sure, but you know what buyers can be like if there are stamps missing or if they've been filled in by the owner.


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## hugo- (Jul 28, 2012)

Lyons said:


> Brilliant right up, very informative. Definitely given me the motivation to have a go.
> 
> What sort of stuff do you get the garage to do then, an what do you do about a stamp in the book for an oil change? Obviously I know it's better to do it yourself to be sure, but you know what buyers can be like if there are stamps missing or if they've been filled in by the owner.


On all of my cars I have always done the interim oil changes myself in between the scheduled services and just kept the receipt for the materials to prove I have done the work.

That way the buyer can see you have had the proper servicing done at the correct intervals but gone above and beyond to keep the car in the best condition possible by doing interim oil changes yourself.

EDIT: Forgot to say. Great guide. Thanks for taking the time to do it.


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## zltm089 (Jul 27, 2009)

Great thread!!!...

shud be stickied!!!


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Thanks for taking the time to write it up so thoroughly. You made some good points and included some sensible tips ie filling the filter before fitting. 
Not sure about the flush though. If the oil's drained at operating temperature, after a good run, all the crud should be suspended in the oil and drain out. Each to their own though and just a comment. Well done.

I agree that it should bein the KB also.


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## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

hugo- said:


> Lyons said:
> 
> 
> > Brilliant right up, very informative. Definitely given me the motivation to have a go.
> ...


So you do the interim oil change every 10k and let the dealer do the major service every 20k? Do they do the oil change at it too?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

The oil change is one of the most important parts of a dealer service.


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## DrKaz (Oct 5, 2011)

Good write up. I do an interim oil change at 10K in between Dealer 20K service on my TDi TT and write in oil filter Part no. and oil litres etc in the service book. New sump plug with attatched washer is mandatory with every change because the sump pan (and it threads) are made of Aluminium, which could be damaged using the old sump plug. Doncaster Audi service chaps think I am a nutter and wasting my money as they tell me Long Life synthetic oils are very good and should maintain thier quality at 20k. I would not rather take that risk as I keep my cars for a number of years.

5K is too frequent and an unecessary expense IMO. I did this 10K interim on my previous car a BMW 525d and managed over 220 000K mile before it was written off by some idiot in a Ford Transit. But no regrets because it led to TT ownership! It still drove well on its original turbo, gearbox and clutch which I put down to the frequent oil changes- afterall how often do you sit in a Renault, Peugeot or Ford taxi and find out it's covered well over 200k mile- why? Cabbies will tell you they change the engine oil every 5-10K.


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## hugo- (Jul 28, 2012)

Lyons said:


> hugo- said:
> 
> 
> > Lyons said:
> ...


I haven't yet had the TT long enough to do any servicing yet but my intention is to have the car dealer serviced every 10k/12 months and do interim changes every 5k/6months. The TT will be doing 5-6k a year so I would prefer to be on 10k service intervals and with it being so little mileage pa for the sake of £60 to do an oil change every 6 months it can't do no harm. For example on my previous car (Clio 182) the service intervals were 12k. Every 6k I would change the oil and filter. Although not required, when I came to sell it the guy knew that it had FSH and additional interim servicing by myself which can only be a good thing.


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

Agree wholeheartedly about the 5000 mile oil changes. Have done it for years and never had any engine problems.

I do sometimes use a vacuum extractor however.

Agree also with using floor jacks. The one thing you do not say is which jacking points you use. I'm not sure about the point at which you put your stands. I agree with the previous writer that they do look fragile and in addition rather a precarious position. I would prefer the longitudinal rails.

The only other observation I have is, why use a cut off oil can to drain your oil into. Buy a proper drain pan they are designed for the purpose and are so useful and are not at all expensive..


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## simmo1212 (Nov 16, 2012)

Thanks for the guide, very handy - like a haynes manual, only useful. 

I can appreciate the 5k servicing idea for a turbo'd car, but for N/A, if the oil still looks as clear as when you put it in, then it doesn't need changing. 
Back in my boy racer days I had an 98 1.8 Civic Vti that revved to 8200rpm, and I checked the oil weekly, as soon as the oil started to darken, I changed it. Be it 3k or 13k. Bad oil and high rpms dont mix well.


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

Isplastic covered oil filter on all TT mk2s - I thought it was only V6 and standard can type screw on filter was on TT TSFI?
Steve


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

Nope. Same/similar to that on page previous. 
Cartridge rather than canister.
Oh, and I'd go draining the canister with a drain tool too. Saves spilling oil when taking the filter housing off. :wink:


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

What's a drain tool?
Steve


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

Like this kinda thing...
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Qua ... 0T/ES8616/

Bought mine from here...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-O ... 234wt_1394
Good quality too!


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## jamesbailey999 (Sep 11, 2013)

Great thread,

I will try this when its due. Hopefully it will be similar with the TDI


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks. Changed oil and filter and bought drain tool. Piece of cake. All I need now is to crack my vgate 450 to change service indicator. Have done oil service but it won't reset service.
Thanks for a great thread.
Steve


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## digital_dreamer (Aug 28, 2011)

Notice one previous reply about axle stands position possible micro fractures..... for people who have done this do you put the stands in the same of different positions?

Thanks
Dave


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## DavidUKTTS (Jul 8, 2014)

I've always been aware an engine shouldn't be started from cold and left to idle. But this may hark back to the days of chokes and the rich mixture washing the oil off the cylinder walls.

Is it best to use the engine flush from a cold start-up and just idle to 15 minutes, or to add it after a run at normal operating temperature and then let it idle for 15 mins?

I'm guessing the latter.

:?


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

Audi mechanics recommend not using flush as it forces muck into places where it would cause problems.
Steve


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## mike95 (Mar 9, 2017)

My oil filter canister is on top rather than bottom (2009 TT 2.0T) -- somewhat confused. After some research it seems there are three types of engines FSI being first, TSI being introduced late 2009, and then second TSI introduced mid 2013.

With each there are various revisions, I'll post screens from the document here for all to see.


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## whatty (Oct 10, 2016)

I was confused too, I also noticed my oil canister is on the top.
Mine a 2014 TT and looking at that engine quick look guide it look like mine a 2009 engine.


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## Kenway (Jul 19, 2021)

Wont engine flush stay in the engine even after draining? Since at best you are looking at least 10% of old oil staying in the engine. And now you are mixing new oil with old oil that has some engine flush liquid in it. Essentially compromising the new oil?


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I recommend using ramps for an oil change. Much simpler than jacks and stands.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

First off this thread is great. Nowhere in the Audi shop manuals could I find the location of the drain plug in the oil pan. Having been a VW owner for over 40 years I’ve never encountered a car with two belly pans. Why Audi didn’t bother to make that vent in the metal belly pan larger to access the oil drain plug is crazy. Below is a picture of all the fasteners needing to be removed before you can change your oil, T25s, T-30s, and one triple square.









Three of the T-30 screws were frozen and ended up stripping my T-30 bit.









Luckily I was able to use my Dremel tool to cut two shoulders on each screw head and remove them with vice grip pliers. If anyone knows the P/N of these T-30 screws please let me know.









Draining the oil filter canister and replacing the filter was easy. I replaced the oil drain plug with the Stahlbus oil drain valve.









When putting it all back together I used anti-seize on every screw to allow easier removal next time. I spent almost three hours dealing with all these unexpected issues.
Here are all the tools I needed to perform the oil change.









As a comparison I also changed the oil in my wife’s 2017 Alltrack with the 1.8T engine. The whole process took about 30 minutes and not a single screw was removed. The required tools was minimal. I hope Audi learned something when the MK3s were designed.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The 3.2 VR6 has a similar 2-piece belly pan shown below. During my last oil change I replaced all the M6x20 (red) bolts for the exact same reason you encountered.

I thought about putting a hinged access door in the belly pan, similar to those on aircraft (Cessna 182 shown below). But since you still have to pull the panels to get to the oil filter anyway, it hardly seemed worth the bother.

The PNs for the belly pan bolts are shown below. Link *here*.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Wormrider said:


> Nowhere in the Audi shop manuals could I find the location of the drain plug in the oil pan


Try the workshop manual linked below. You'll find more of them *here* in the Knowledge Base.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/attachmen...479471/?hash=6894c6bb38f35975cf51e8e83f22a0c7

*5-Cylinder Direct Petrol Injection Engine (2.5 ltr. 4-valve turbo), Mechanics
Engine ID CEPA *(page 134)

_Item 19 - Seal
❑ Renew
Item 20 - Oil drain plug
❑ 25 Nm_


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

TT-driver said:


> I like the write-up, pictures and all.
> 
> Every 5k miles an oil change is overkill IMHO, unless those were 5k Nurburgring miles or 5k traffic jam miles or 5k pizza delivery miles. Otherwise 10k miles should do no harm at all.
> 
> ...


Yes - a good coverage of a process we will all undertake for the first time at some point for all the good reasons you give, and thereafter at whatever interval you're most happy with. Personally I believe 5k is optimum if you want to really look after your TT - as I do. A good habit to get into with a new car to protect the engine, and equally beneficial on an older car (mine is 2011) which you're wanting to make its best self.
On raising the car, I'm with you - of course - on all measures to make sure the car stays put, and on the importance of a level work area. My drive has a very slight slope to it so I use some sports ramps. They're made out of some sort of solid plastic and low enough to drive the car onto without catching the front/or rear skirts.
I've used those jacking points myself on occasions as well, so good to see another member sharing that, but equally interested to know more if any members have concerns.
One last point on cleaning out a dirty/older engine. I havent used the cleaner products, but for years - on previous cars -asked the garage to do a flush whilst doing an oil change. No idea if they did it though! 
Instead I've flushed with cheaper Audi spec oil, and then a week later refilled with the good stuff and changed the filter.
I would also add that I've just replaced the sump and oil pick up on my TT, and hopeful that this will have removed all the sludge that settles in there - never to fully drain out during an oil change. See pic.









I did notice though that when I refilled the engine, with a new filter fitted, that it took all 5 litres to take the dipstick reading to just mid way between min and max. I thought the full capacity for my CESA engine was 4.5 litres but I guess there was literally no oil left in the engine after draining for several days, and the sump replaced.
Any thoughts welcome, but no oil light and I'll add some more oil to take the level up a touch. Ran OBD11 diagnostic and didn't flag any engine errors or sensors not working so guess all's OK?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I think one of the big concerns/arguments against engine oil flushes, especially on older engines, is the issue of sludgy-bits being released and ending up blocking areas that could cause more problems than the flush is trying to solve.

For the 3.2 VR6, one of those lesser known areas is inside the Cam Bridge where there is a tiny little filter for the Cam Valves, which if blocked, could cause starvation to the Hydraulic Cam Valves and Variable Cam Adjusters. Of course thanks to the bright sparks at Audi, this tiny little filter can't be inspected, cleaned or replaced unless the entire cam assembly is taken apart.

A very well researched report from a German Audi A3 website recommends frequent oil changes and specifically avoiding long life oils for a couple of reasons including greater risk of sludge deposits in small but critical oil ways; (e.g. Cam Adjuster Valve Filter Screen, Cam Adjuster Valves and Cam Adjuster Vanes). And because the longer oil remains in the engine, the higher accumulation of acids can build up over time since the contaminated oil remains in the engine longer than would be the case with non-LL oils which are typically replaced somewhere between 5-10k km.

Now having said that, they do promote a flush "system" that involves several flush agents in a very specific sequence. More *here*.

I'm a fan of frequent oil changes, which to many may seem excessive. However, IMHO oil and filters are cheap insurance. I typically do mine every 6-months or 5-7k km which coincides with winter/summer tire swaps. Cleaning out the sump seems like a good idea, since it's simply removing the accumulation of sludge and will not contribute to the distribution of sludgy-bits in the oil channels.

When in doubt about oil capacities or torque values you can always refer to the Workshop Manuals which you will find in the KB.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

SJP, thanks for all the info. Unfortunately the P/Ns listed by LLL for the rear belly attachment screws do not correspond to the right numbers in the USA. I checked with two different Audi dealers in the states and logically got two different numbers that are different than what LLL listed. What is most frustrating is ETKA in Europe and the USA doesn’t even show attachment screws for the rear belly pan. The front belly pan shows three different types of screws when there is only one type. Since I now know the size for the rear belly pan screws, M6x20 T-30, I will just order them on line or go to my local bone yard with a t-30 driver and see what I can find.

In my VW screw jar in my garage I found one screw, M6x20 T-30, that was actually superior to the Audi screw. The head is larger which means there is more surface area for the T-30 bit to bite. Unfortunately, since the screw doesn’t have a P/N on it so I have no easy way of getting another one.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Wormrider* - If your local Audi Service Center can't help, you might want to take a look through the *McMaster-Carr* catalog or *ECS Tuning* as they seem have a good selection of VAG fasteners.

I tried to find the *1K0 825 951, M6x20* from the 7Zap and LLL parts list, and when I did the search for it came up with completely different looking bolts. So I'm not sure what's going on with this one...? I would NOT use this especially since it has *Loctite* (aka micro-ensapsulation) on the threads which is completely unnecessary.









I did manage to find these on eBay which should do the job -

*N 10751101 
Oval Hexagon Socket Head Bolt M6X20*









The single tripple-square bolt at the back of the pan, which according to the parts list, could be either an M8 x 20 or M8 x 25.

*N 91009701 
Socket head bolt with inner multipoint head M8 X 25 *









The self-tapping screws used on the plastic panel that go into the speed-nuts are the same as the ones used for the fender arch liners. It's a common VAG part so it should be pretty easy to find. Same with the speed nut. You can even find them on Amazon.

*N 90775001
Self-Tapping Screw, 4,8 x 16*








*N 10433701 
Speed Nut*


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

I forgot to show you all that using ramps is the way to go for oil changes. Here is a picture of my setup.


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## Wormrider (6 mo ago)

Here is a site in the UK for the T-30 screws if you don’t want to pay Audi prices.


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