# Clean Injectors at Home?



## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Hey guys, since I disassembled my motor for timing belt, I decided to do carbon clean as well, and Im almost done removing intake manifold.

Wanted to ask you, if anyone tried cleaning the injector valves at home? What tools/liquids/ techniques / voltages applied work and what I shoud avoid doing?

if our valves (2.0 tfsi bwa) are 12v operated, I have a small pcb with flashing cicuit, made for flashing leds. I thought pluging the injector onto that circuit so that it opens and closes (just like in car-only slower rate) and place the injector tip in ultrasound cleaner with isopropil alcohol...

Any sugestions?
Thanks!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

The best way to clean the fuel injector is by replacing the micro filter.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

This may help and there others if you use the search function - https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/vie...66&p=9092203&hilit=Injector+cleaning#p9092203


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Found these on YouTube. Seems pretty straight forward.

In this video one of the injectors was stuck open, so it would probably be a good idea to run a OBD2 scan to see if there are any fault codes related to the injectors before you remove them. Might want to run a scan before and after just to make sure everything's okay. No sense cleaning and installing a defective injector.

You'll most likely want to follow up with the injector seal replacement kit and DIY installation with the second video -

*VW 2.0 TSI Injector Cleaning and Testing*













*Replace Injector Seals on Direct Injection Engines*


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Okay, so directly 12v is the voltage. Thanks SwissJetPilot!

Iceblue mentioned microfilter, and I can remember seeing it somewhere online. Small metal "pouch"
Anyone knows how to remove it, without damaging it?
I have seen a guy putting the screw inside the injector, and then with a single turn screwing it into filter, then pulling it all out. O.0


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

These are probably Bosch injectors, but double check. Then chase down the part number in the Bosch website, and see what's available for replacement parts. The "microscreen" may be listed there if it's applicable. What you saw with the screw may or may not be applicable to this particular brand of injector.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

I will definitely check.. I plan on cleaning them in the ultrasound cleaner as well.

Check out the photos, I just got my intake manifold off! 2007 2.0 bwa with 131.000km


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yikes! What's your odometer reading? Curious about how much has built up at a given mileage.

*Wolvez* has recommended a commercial water based carbon solvent allowing a good long soak, followed up with a wire brush to remove the carbon build up on the intake valves. He seems to have gotten pretty good results as you can see in this post -

*To Carbon Clean or to Not*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... lit=carbon


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Micro filter removal option. 




Odometer : 131.000 km

I will to the same, picks and wire brushes, till its nice and shiny


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Those are for a 1987 Toyota MR2 - old school. The Bosch may not have the micro filters.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Those are for a 1987 Toyota MR2 - old school. The Bosch may not have the micro filters.


I have looked into mine, seem to have same style filters.
There are also such filters online "universal" injector filters. Anyways I think they are same/similar, but should have same install procedure, since they do not screw out, ive just tried


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Cool!  Please post some pictures and the list the part numbers for 12 & 13 of your replacement bits so we know the specific PNs for your engine. That will be very helpful for anyone who follows your clean and rebuild procedure.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Some after photos. Dividers simply scrubed with stanley knife blade. Injectors in ultrasound cleaner with alcohol, ( tho im not sure if thats enough...)
Did not succseed removing small filters, maybe I will try again.

Share your thoughts and suggestions!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Just soak it with Industrial Grade Water Based Carbon Remover and it will look good as new.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... yfOEA00MCe


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Wolvez said:


> Just soak it with Industrial Grade Water Based Carbon Remover and it will look good as new.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... yfOEA00MCe


Do you have any brands or suppliers for europe? Austra?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

I'm not sure if TURCO 9045-6 or Piston Kleen is available in your location. Try searching "water based carbon remover".


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Petar92 said:


> I have looked into mine, seem to have same style filters.
> There are also such filters online "universal" injector filters. Anyways I think they are same/similar, but should have same install procedure, since they do not screw out, ive just tried


The micro filter is press fitted inplace. You need to pull it out


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Your post has me curious about how to do this, so looking through various YouTube videos on DIY injector cleaning, some people have used a common 9-volt battery rather than a 12-volt car battery to provide power. Also, depending on the size of the injector, you may be able to use syringe body to interface between the injector and spray cleaner spray tube.

And for anyone who needs an excuse for buying yet another tool, there's a couple of options there too from a simple screw-and-pull device to a set of pliers for the job -







__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Yes, they are press fitted. The problem is, they are made out of plastic, but have. Brass ring at the point where they fit
Into injector. As I tried to pull it out with a screw, plastic started breaking apart but brass ring wont move ( yeah, 13 years in motor head..)
So i ended up having to drill it out with 5mm drill bit, and do it very carefuly...
I got the plastic piece out, with 3 small extra fine mesh pieces, but the brass ring is still inside, and wont move.

I know this is not the right way, but I will now have to leave this injector without filter in it ((

So , do the ultra sound and dont touch the filters, would be my friendly advice


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looking through the Workshop Manuals, I couldn't find any references to the injector micro-filters, so I wonder if they're supposed to be replaced...?? If you back flush the injector when cleaning it, the pressure should blow out any debris that might be in the filter.

I doubt alcohol will be very effective in removing the carbon build-up. Seems most people are using carburetor or injector cleaner to blow through the injectors.

As to the ultrasonic cleaning, there's a section on this in Workshop Manual - _Fuel Injection CDA, CCZ, CCT, CES, CET - 1.8ltr & 2.0 ltr, 4-Valve Turbo with Timing Chain - A005TT02120_. I would probably go with the water based carbon solvent *Wolvez* recommended.

As always, you can download the Workshop Manuals from the KB. Look under Section 4 - Fuel Systems -

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Wolvez* - Good call on the TURCO 9045-6! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

It's now branded as Bonderite C-AK 9045 Aero from Henkel.

_BONDERITE® C-AK 9045-6 AERO (TURCO 9045-6) is a unique water-based cleaner carbon used to remove carbon deposits and difficult to remove soils found in aircraft engines. It cleans engine blocks, pistons, carburetors, transmissions and brake assemblies. It is an effective carbon remover for jet engine overhaul and may also remove some paints.

• Approved by Pratt & Whitney (SPOP 207)
• Does not contain chlorinated hydrocarbons, phenols or chromates
• Safe on common engine alloys
• Used as received. No mixing or dilution required
• Operates at moderate temperatures +104 °F to +140 °F (+40 °C to +60 °C)
• Can be used in turbulators, ultrasonic systems or other mechanically agitated tanks
• Long lasting_

Here's the technical data sheet from their website. It might be worth contacting their local sales rep and see if it's available in your area and even ask if they'll send you a small sample. I've done this with some companies who were willing to send me a 250ml sample for free.

*BONDERITE C-AK 9045-6 AERO *
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/pl/en/ ... 6aero.html

View attachment Bonderite C-AK 9045-6 Aero(known as Turco 9045-6).pdf


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

would one of these help in any way, they seem to claim to clean up air intake :?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Catch-Ca ... Sw-KFXfs9n


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Which engine do you have? The 3.2 VR-6 has one built into the valve cover, it's called a "Cyclone Oil Separator".


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *Wolvez* - Good call on the TURCO 9045-6! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> It's now branded as Bonderite C-AK 9045 Aero from Henkel.
> 
> ...


I wrote to henkel in Poland to ask if I could order a bottle.

WolfeZ videos and results are impressive, but really hard to understand what he is refering to. After wathching videos I understood him..


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Petar92 said:


> Yes, they are press fitted. The problem is, they are made out of plastic, but have. Brass ring at the point where they fit
> Into injector. As I tried to pull it out with a screw, plastic started breaking apart but brass ring wont move ( yeah, 13 years in motor head..)
> So i ended up having to drill it out with 5mm drill bit, and do it very carefuly...
> I got the plastic piece out, with 3 small extra fine mesh pieces, but the brass ring is still inside, and wont move.
> ...


Try using a expanding plastic anchor with screw (Plastic Tox or Wall Plug). Fabricate a handle using 50-100mm flat bar then drill a hole at the center for the screw. The brass ring is around 4-5mm long. It will not come out unless you pull it straight up. Removing it is very easy if you have a slide hammer.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Looking through the Workshop Manuals, I couldn't find any references to the injector micro-filters, so I wonder if they're supposed to be replaced...?? If you back flush the injector when cleaning it, the pressure should blow out any debris that might be in the filter.


No Workshop Manual will ever tell you that fuel injectors have micro-filter. Example of filters you won't find on the workshop manual and on ETKA are DSG Inter filter and Haldex filter.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*@ Wolvez* - That's not entirely correct. The Haldex filter service is described quite clearly in the workshop manual for the final drive. The problem is, the filter change is just not mentioned in the Audi Maintenance Schedule.

*Rear Final Drive 02D, 0AV, 0BR, 0BS, 0BY (D3E80023195)*


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> *@ Wolvez* - That's not entirely correct. The Haldex filter service is described quite clearly in the workshop manual for the final drive. The problem is, the filter change is just not mentioned in the Audi Maintenance Schedule.


I'm reffering to the internal filter/strainer


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yes!! True! I'm often amazed how the maintenance schedules, workshop manuals, SSP's and parts lists all seem to have been developed by completely different teams at Audi who had no idea the other teams even existed! :roll:


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Yes!! True! I'm often amazed how the maintenance schedules, workshop manuals, SSP's and parts lists all seem to have been developed by completely different teams at Audi who had no idea the other teams even existed! :roll:


Sometimes it's silly to follow the Stupid Workshop Manual. Just imagine replacing a failed DSG Mechatronic without replacing the DSG Internal Filter. :lol:


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

just a small update, even tho im off original topic..

got the cleanup done today, metal picks, steel wire brush, and lack thinner. Im happy.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice job! Man, that's a load of carbon you got there! 

Was it difficult to turn the engine so the valves were closed as you worked from one cylinder to the other? This is often mentioned in the DIY videos on YouTube, but I have not yet seen it demonstrated.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Nice job! Man, that's a load of carbon you got there!
> 
> Was it difficult to turn the engine so the valves were closed as you worked from one cylinder to the other? This is often mentioned in the DIY videos on YouTube, but I have not yet seen it demonstrated.


I was really suprised.. its a lot, and I can only imagine how much easier the engine is going to run. You can easily count with just as much carbon on the 4 splitters, and I also cleaned the flaps that sit in intake manifold. Same story there, 1,5mm of carbon buildup...

To rotate the engine hou need 19mm 12 point socket and a normal socket wrench. Its easy and can be done from engine bay.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I take it the transmission is in Neutral when rotating the engine? And in which direction to you rotate it?


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I take it the transmission is in Neutral when rotating the engine?


I actually forgot to do that, so no, mine was in park (automatic)
On top of that, I did not remove my sparkplugs.. still could turn it no issues, and Im not the strongest guy in the market


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Okay, good to know - remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.

Question is, in order to rotate the engine and close the valves, when you put the 19mm socket wrench on the crank bolt, do you pull the wrench towards you or push it away from you? (3.2 BUB Engine shown)


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Okay, good to know - remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.
> 
> Question is, in order to rotate the engine and close the valves, when you put the 19mm socket wrench on the crank bolt, do you pull the wrench towards you or push it away from you? (3.2 BUB Engine shown)


All info I found online states allways rotate engine clockwise.. so I pulled to myself" as shown in picture.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Perfect! Thanks!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Okay, good to know - remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier.


NOT in this case. Since it's a direct injected engine and the injectors are not installed on all cylinder, no compression will occur. Removing the spark plug will not help on this case.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Sooo, this is where it gets interesting! I think I saw this somewhere online, so I wont take full credit for this "invention", but I just prooved to myself it works really well!

Take a pen line in photos or simillar, measure the diameter of injector (~7,5mm) and transfer it to pen's top.

Cut the pen, and use it as teflon seal replacement tool.

After that put a small hose with clamp on injector, and tighten the clamp until seal is tight. I used transparent hose to make sure seal stays in its place.

Cheers!!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

I used quick connect fitting to shrink the PTFE seal on the injector. After sliding the teflon seal on the injector. I just inserted the injector on the left male quick connect fitting on the image below.


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## Petar92 (Sep 29, 2019)

Wolvez said:


> I used quick connect fitting to shrink the PTFE seal on the injector. After sliding the teflon seal on the injector. I just inserted the injector on the left male quick connect fitting on the image below.


Heheh, that is amazing! I dont have it around so have to try jubilee clamp method


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

Hello guys,
I was given OEM VW Petrol fuel Additive G001770A2 (see pic)

*Question:*
Do you drive the car hard or normally after the additive is poured?

Thanks for any help,


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

As it goes in the fuel tank and dilutes i don't think it'll make a lot of difference unless you can nail it for a whole tank of fuel!

Guys I know who've run Porsche race teams reckons the fuel quality has a big issue on Carbon build up on our engines, so always run 99 and more if you can. I often put some Millers ecomax in and if I have to run 98 or lower I will add a proper booster - Fuchs Silkolene PRO BOOST Octane Improver.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Which is exactly why the type and quality of fuel you use is defined in the owners manual. Well worth a read, and it also discusses the use of additives.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Which is exactly why the type and quality of fuel you use is defined in the owners manual. Well worth a read, and it also discusses the use of additives.


Indeed it does. Page 230.

"Use only AUDI approved petrol additives..."

The one I got (in the picture) is VW AUDI approved. So I should be safe.

The only problem is that it has close to zero instructions. Just pour it before refuelling. No mention how you should drive or behave while you have this additive.

Do you have to keep it in S- mode with valves open so you can get all the dislodged dirt out of the car? do you drive it normally or hard?
So many questions


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I've used fuel additives (not these particular VAG products) in the past and have never seen anything about changes in operation. If you can't find any instructions on the internet, drop by your local Audi and get their Service Manager to provide you with specifics. Otherwise you're going to get a world of different opinions.

This TSB might help -

_With the fuel tank at least half full, pour 1 bottle of fuel additive part number *G 001780M3* into the fuel tank and
drive the vehicle with the transmission in the "S" (Sport) selection to help dissolve any deposits in the engine._

EDIT - It looks like both part numbers are the same product and VAG sells them in two different sizes, thus the different part numbers. (I've written to my local Audi guy to verify). There's also a Diesel additive available.

• G001770A2 for 60 ml (Gasoline engines)
• G001780M3 for 200 ml (Gasoline engines)

• G001790M3 for 150 ml (Diesel engines)

View attachment SB-10069597-2280 (1).pdf


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I've used these in the past and have never seen anything about changes in operation. If you can't find any instructions on the internet, drop by your local Audi and get their Service Manager to provide you with specifics. Otherwise you're going to get a world of different opinions.
> 
> This TSB might help -
> 
> ...


Thanks SWISS you are amazing!! PDF helped!
Im gonna open the S mode and put it in to dynamic. (as I suspected on my own. The open valves are important in order to dispose of the debris that the additive will clean)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just be aware this will do nothing for removing carbon build-up on the intake valves. It will only help clean the injectors. DFI engines don't benefit from these sorts of additives due to the design since fuel doesn't pass over the intake valves, instead, it's injected directly into the cylinder.

I found a comment on another VAG Forum that when using G 001770A2 the can should be shaken before being emptied into the fuel tank. And be sure you get any drips off the paint work.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Just be aware this will do nothing for removing carbon build-up on the intake valves. It will only help clean the injectors. DFI engines don't benefit from these sorts of additives due to the design since fuel doesn't pass over the intake valves, instead, it's injected directly into the cylinder.
> 
> I found a comment on another VAG Forum that when using G 001770A2 the can should be shaken before being emptied into the fuel tank. And be sure you get any drips off the paint work.


A good shake never hurt anyone for sure 

Im still not 100% in the clear. Are these TT Mk3 engines for Europe Direct Injections or are they Port Injected??

(On AudiWorld forums and in a lot of other places. US market complains that VW engines are Direct while Europe gets Port Injected systems)

My TT Mk3 2015 was bought in Germany.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Can't say for a Mk3 engine. You might wander over to the Mk3 Forum and ask them.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Can't say for a Mk3 engine. You might wander over to the Mk3 Forum and ask them.


Thanks for everything Swiss. Very detailed and helpful replies. You helped me a lot


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No worries.  Please be sure to let us know if the fuel additive actually helps and if you realize any quantifiable results.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> No worries.  Please be sure to let us know if the fuel additive actually helps and if you realize any quantifiable results.


Swiss,
I have the following problems:
1. Weird tremble and feeling in my gas pedal. (Like the car wants to stall - like in a manual car for example).

2. Gas delivery in low speeds and pedal pressure feels like the car is choking

3. Occasionally, in very low speeds (parking maneuvers) the gas delivery is choppy (again similar to stalling under wrong gear in manual cars)

So we do have issues that are very easily noticed if they get fixed. Will post my results soon.

Im gonna dump the additive and fill it up to max. Giving me 610km range. Then I will drive for 450km (I have a business trip to make) so I will basically drain a tank in one day). Should be good.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Your problem may not relate to carbon build up. You may have a vacuum leak of some kind thats stuffing up your fuel air mixture at idle. Have you had the car scanned for a fault


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

Iceblue said:


> Your problem may not relate to carbon build up. You may have a vacuum leak of some kind thats stuffing up your fuel air mixture at idle. Have you had the car scanned for a fault


I did (with my OBDEleven) zero faults.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

+1 for *Iceblue* - That would have been my recommendation too. Odd nothing came up as a fault. :?

@ *captainhero17* - Which country are you in and what year model and engine (turbo yes/no) do you have?

Off the top of my head, I'm thinking possibly a worn high pressure fuel pump cam follower since there's no faults. Easy DIY fix, and not something you want to keep running as it can wipe out your cam. This isn't on Audi's routine maintenance list and is often overlooked.









*How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) 2.0 TFSI High Pressure Fuel Pump*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1912967

YouTube on where it is and how to replace it -
*High pressure fuel pump EASY replacement on TFSI engine *




.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> +1 for *Iceblue* - That would have been my recommendation too. Odd nothing came up as a fault. :?
> 
> @ *captainhero17* - Which country are you in and what year model and engine (turbo yes/no) do you have?
> 
> ...


1. Yeah, ZERO faults at all. And I do scan the car at least 2 times a year for fun.

2. AUDI TT MK3 (8S) 2.0TFSI Quattro S-tronic (turbo petrol) 230HP MY2015 January.
Bought in Germany 

3. I will remind myself to ask my mechanic to check the high pressure fuel pump next time Im at his garage. Strange how in the 2nd video, the guy gets fault code for the pump. But I dont. Then again not sure if OBDEleven is that good of a diagnostic tool. 

(Then again I scan the car when the engine is off and I only have the battery running the car system)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I think the OBDeleven's are okay, but you should scan it with the engine running. That might explain why no faults showed up.

If you're pushing 5-years old and the HPFP Cam Follower has never been looked at this would be a good time to have a professional mechanic check it. Just my two cents, but I'd get that sorted before dumping a can of fuel additive in the tank and taking it on a long trip.


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## captainhero17 (Apr 10, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I think the OBDeleven's are okay, but you should scan it with the engine running. That might explain why no faults showed up.
> 
> If you're pushing 5-years old and the HPFP Cam Follower has never been looked at this would be a good time to have a professional mechanic check it. Just my two cents, but I'd get that sorted before dumping a can of fuel additive in the tank and taking it on a long trip.


I will run a scan with engine on. See if it changes anything. Even though all of the YT tutorials do it with engine off and just with contact on.

I will post the results.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

For some scans, the engine needs to be running. However, the caution is not to plug the OBDeleven (or VCDS) into the OBD port _WHILE_ the engine is running.

Plug it in, start the car, and then run a scan for a whatever period of time you need.

Then stop the scan, shut off the engine and remove the OBD scan device.


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