# TT Lock Switch -opinions on creating a fix. Got 1 option



## Wak

2018 edit

For the future you can buy good microswitches on eBay now designed for this repair

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2522346126









HELP NEEDED!

Another not so clever design but maybe we can come up with a solution.

basically a nylon cover wears and the exposed switch head cuts into the latch coating stopping the latch working fully and eventually not having enough to push the switch.

The Switch is mounted with a spring clamp and located with two plastic pins from the body from the body of the switch








NOTE: in the above, there is a metal tab holding the spring clip, this is revised, all earlier locks dont have that, the clip T edge rests against the plastic switch pins to keep it in place.

1. A weatherproof roller switch is going to be a much better option.
2. a little sanding of the damage should recover the latch to allow a roller to work 
(or am I flogging a dead horse?, maybe a little epoxy and sanding?)
3. the side shown above must remain fairly flush as that side is close to the bodywork.
4. the switch is a normally open circuit switch, press to make contact.
5. I need some ideas on the switch type and mounting options.

more reference pics.....


----------



## John-H

Here you go Wak:









Farnell part:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/ ... =gensearch

Clearer datasheet:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/26701.pdf

The roller type will take up too much room - they all fall into standard sizes. The roller itself is a 5mm diameter wheel requiring at least 7mm or so room when compressed compared to not a lot with the simple plunger type. So you'd have to back off the body mounting accordingly. Added to that the problem that the roller sticks out, so doesn't operate in the same position on the cam.

The microswitch I'm suggesting is a lever type. What you could do is bend the lever at the end around the switch so it simply forms a protector for the plunger beneath and doesn't catch on anything. The lever would slide on the rough cam surface like a ski/sledge. The operating position will be near identical and the mounting position would be the same.

I think what you could do is smooth out the torn up nylon a bit then mount the switch using two M3 screws washers and lock nuts (or back to back nuts to lock).

The switch is a changeover so normally open or normally closed depends on how you connect the wires.

It's fully sealed to IP67 (immersion in water) and costs a reasonable Â£3.81 +VAT. Hope that helps 

P.S. I still think the surface looks as though it's been ripped up by something else, like the end of a too long mounting screw or something - it just doesn't look gradually worn away - more torn with force.


----------



## Wak

Cheers John,

I shall get hold of one and see how it could be used.

Shame a roller cant be found I wonder if the SKI effect will also cut into the plastic only thing is the metal lever could be bent to compensate!


----------



## TTotal

Hurry up Wak, I need my doorlock fixed :wink:


----------



## John-H

Does this help clarify? The cam still presses the actuator button in exactly the same place but the lever is bent out of the way and merely protects the sealed actuator from friction damage and presents a smooth surface to the cam. The thicness of the lever is negligable, the switch mountings are the same dimensions and fitted the same way round as before, with the actuator button in the same position - so the actuator linear movement is the same. 


If the switch is mounted the other way round and the cam presses the free end of the lever the linear movement of the actuator, due to leverage, will be too little. The same problem occurs with the roller type - the roller would need to be directly above the actuator, for the same movement, but it's at the other end, losing ~3x the linear movement. You also need the extra space of the roller. Although it would be possible to adjust the switch mounting position - the reduction in the linear movement would make it tricky to adjust and set up reliably.


----------



## Andyman

Thanks for the info Wak. Excellent photos too.

Have you made any progress with this? Any luck sourcing a suitable replacement switch? I might be able to get hold of some military spec micro switches which are weatherproof but also have metal plungers rather than the flimsy plastic type.

I'll take a look through my catalogues later to see if any are the correct dimensions. Just out of interest how critical are the dimensions. Is the switch a tight fit or could it accommodate something slightly larger?

Andy.


----------



## TTotal

Andy, I am a little involved in this too as we had an issue with mine failing, we swapped it over at the weekend with a second hand one which is ok for the moment.

Symptoms are...

Window dont drop the 5 mm on opening
Interior light dont come on when door opened
Lights on warning buzzer dont work
Car will lock itself with keys in ignition if you close the door and dont start up (it actually locked me out with the keys inside)
Instrument lights dont light up when door opened

Personally I think a metal retracting pin will wear into the cam even more than a nylon one but then what do I know.

Thanks for the suggestion though Andy , you may be right !


----------



## Andyman

Hmm, you could be right there John. Also available are metal plunger types with metal levers similar to the one pictured earlier. These might be even better but maybe overkill.

Those are certainly the symptoms I have too. Although I hadn't considered the problem with being locked out. That might be the encouragement I need to do something about it. Until now I'd just seen it as a mild annoyance that the windows don't do their cool little dropping thing when you open the door.

Andy.


----------



## Wak

I have the recommended switches and it looks like it would work well but they are deeper, I have a working prototype but the switch sits in the clip loosly.

I am trying to to decide on a mounting option that is better and will be more solid that isnt going to involve epoxy resin! :roll: 

I think the metal clip wont be too bad and the beauty is if it does wear a little plastic it can be bent further to take up the slack.


----------



## Andyman

Do the holes in the switch line up with the existing holes in the catch casing? Would it be possible to bolt them through and do away with the metal clip? How about drilling a new set of holes if they don't line up perfectly?

Andy.


----------



## Bobstar

TTotal said:


> Andy, I am a little involved in this too as we had an issue with mine failing, we swapped it over at the weekend with a second hand one which is ok for the moment.
> 
> Symptoms are...
> 
> Window dont drop the 5 mm on opening
> Interior light dont come on when door opened
> Lights on warning buzzer dont work
> Car will lock itself with keys in ignition if you close the door and dont start up (it actually locked me out with the keys inside)
> Instrument lights dont light up when door opened


I have exactly those symptoms, and have been looking for a fix. I've been quoted over Â£200 to get it fixed at a local garage (specialising in Audi/VW), and i'm guessing its gonna cost a good deal more from Audi themselves? Anybody had a quote from Audi?


----------



## Wak

Andyman said:


> Do the holes in the switch line up with the existing holes in the catch casing? Would it be possible to bolt them through and do away with the metal clip? How about drilling a new set of holes if they don't line up perfectly?
> 
> Andy.


no, the switch is deeper so the catch metal covers the holes!


----------



## Wak

Bobstar said:


> TTotal said:
> 
> 
> 
> Andy, I am a little involved in this too as we had an issue with mine failing, we swapped it over at the weekend with a second hand one which is ok for the moment.
> 
> Symptoms are...
> 
> Window dont drop the 5 mm on opening
> Interior light dont come on when door opened
> Lights on warning buzzer dont work
> Car will lock itself with keys in ignition if you close the door and dont start up (it actually locked me out with the keys inside)
> Instrument lights dont light up when door opened
> 
> 
> 
> I have exactly those symptoms, and have been looking for a fix. I've been quoted over Â£200 to get it fixed at a local garage (specialising in Audi/VW), and i'm guessing its gonna cost a good deal more from Audi themselves? Anybody had a quote from Audi?
Click to expand...

the lock is around Â£82 and about an hour to change over.


----------



## Andyman

Wak said:


> Andyman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do the holes in the switch line up with the existing holes in the catch casing? Would it be possible to bolt them through and do away with the metal clip? How about drilling a new set of holes if they don't line up perfectly?
> 
> Andy.
> 
> 
> 
> no, the switch is deeper so the catch metal covers the holes!
Click to expand...

Doesn't that mean you could just re-drill the holes and bolt it on with some M3 machines screws?

I found a possible alternative which might fit better but is slight more expensive.

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/subRa ... cheID=ukie

Andy.


----------



## Bobstar

Wak said:


> Bobstar said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TTotal said:
> 
> 
> 
> Andy, I am a little involved in this too as we had an issue with mine failing, we swapped it over at the weekend with a second hand one which is ok for the moment.
> 
> Symptoms are...
> 
> Window dont drop the 5 mm on opening
> Interior light dont come on when door opened
> Lights on warning buzzer dont work
> Car will lock itself with keys in ignition if you close the door and dont start up (it actually locked me out with the keys inside)
> Instrument lights dont light up when door opened
> 
> 
> 
> I have exactly those symptoms, and have been looking for a fix. I've been quoted over Â£200 to get it fixed at a local garage (specialising in Audi/VW), and i'm guessing its gonna cost a good deal more from Audi themselves? Anybody had a quote from Audi?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> the lock is around Â£82 and about an hour to change over.
Click to expand...

How easy is it to do? idiots guide? and where to get the lock from?


----------



## Wak

Its not too hard just fiddly and I cant post a guide up as it would be risky to make available online information on the locks.!


----------



## Bobstar

Wak said:


> Its not too hard just fiddly and I cant post a guide up as it would be risky to make available online information on the locks.!


Much chance of me stumbling across such a guide in my pm?


----------



## John-H

Right, I think I can see what's going on now and this might explain. I've used Wak's original dimensions and switch picture and ratio'd on some missing dimensions in light blue, then transposed some other dimensions to the new switch. I've taken corner "X" as a reference and measured the plunger position to nearly match (7.2~7.0, 2.4~2.1). I've placed a scaled square for the old switch body and two blue circles for the old hole positions as best I can.

You can see the problem with the holes. This is unusual as standard micro-switches have identical mounting variants... usually :? Sorry I didn't do this excercise before Wak - what a pain! I knew the wired back of the switch would stick out a bit but wasn't expecting the holes to move.

 (Click to enlarge)


----------



## Wak

Well, unfortunately the holes dont line up but it does work, its just loose and the retaining clip would be solid once the lock was bolted to the door...

But a bit risky to try in that fashion!


----------



## Andyman

Wak,

That cream coloured part of the original switch looks separate from the main body. Would it be possible to cut that off and Araldite it to the side of the replacement microswitch? Then you'd have a new switch which would fit the original holes.

Andy.


----------



## Wak

Andyman said:


> Wak,
> 
> That cream coloured part of the original switch looks separate from the main body. Would it be possible to cut that off and Araldite it to the side of the replacement microswitch? Then you'd have a new switch which would fit the original holes.
> 
> Andy.


Its looks like it will prise away. I will take a better look tomorrow.

I think it may push through to the opposite side and then melted to make the 5mm flat on the opposite side. It should come off.

Only issue would be glue in the right place to make the switch work.


----------



## John-H

I wonder if when you prize it away you'll find switch mounting holes in the standard position (9.53mm centres)? In which case Anyman's idea might simply clip into the holes and provide location. The problem remains with rear clearance if you still use the bracket clamp. Perhaps the end of the bracket could be bent to lock it on in the slightly extended position?

The hoes through the switch would require M2.5 screws by the way (not M3 as I wrongly said). Drilling the lock body with 2.5mm holes might work but you'd have to watch breaking through into the 3mm holes already there. You could file slots out to the required position but that's getting fiddly considering repeat fixes in future.

Alternatively, a lever switch without the wire terminal cover would fit but you'd have to solder on and seal new wires yourself.
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/ ... 1851&N=401


----------



## Wak

John-H said:


> I wonder if when you prize it away you'll find switch mounting holes in the standard position (9.53mm centres)? In which case Anyman's idea might simply clip into the holes and provide location. The problem remains with rear clearance if you still use the bracket clamp. Perhaps the end of the bracket could be bent to lock it on in the slightly extended position?


This is possible I was playing last night. I'll have a good look at the sides tonight and see whats under the oem plastic bits.


----------



## Wak

Well that plan failed :?


----------



## Andyman

Surely not? You can still use that. Can't you just cut that side piece out with a junior hacksaw and Araldite it to the new switch? I'd have thought that with a little sanding or filing it would slap straight to the side.










Andy.


----------



## Wak

Some new info here...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461&page=1

and here

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=730184


----------



## John-H

Well, if you're OK slotting out the holes, then there's a solution  . I tried searching for the "Radio Shack" switch but they only exist in the US now (was Tandy in the UK, now Maplins) but there's no match to the part number 275-016A. If it was from Radio Shack, then it was probably not sealed anyway, so might have failed after getting wet.

If you're going to slot out the holes, a needle file might be more controlable than a Dremmel. Washers, or a small plate with 2.5mm holes on 9.53mm centres would avoid any possibility of the heads falling through and in addition the plate could be glued to the lock body to lock the switch position once optimised. You could tighten the nuts and bolts then dribble superglue behind the plate and on the nuts to lock. Using a plate would allow you to use oversive slots to give some play/adjustment. You wouldn't need the old clamp bracket this way.



But Andyman's idea of re-using the plastic side could well be suitable if you manage to modify the bracket to clamp reliably in it's extended position.


----------



## Wak

I think I'll see if the new switch will sit in a position that makes the holes viable an reuseable for future switch issues.

the cutting and gluing just seems like there is room for error with the switch position if its slightly out.


----------



## Wak

I have a fix I think will work...... 

but its valentines day and I have to go pay attention to the missus ! :lol:

Its so simple, its embarrassing!

Laters with some pics!


----------



## John-H

You say the sweetest of things you tease! :-*

Can't wait to see the pictures of you and the missus


----------



## RobLE

COME ON!!!! Whats the fix please!!!!!! :?


----------



## Wak

Ok, It was right under my nose staring me in the face!

The switch body is generic and has been designed for a couple of options.

Although the rubber cap has disintegrated the switch mechanism looks clean enough so I doubt it would get any worse even though the rubber has gone.

As the rubber has gone, you have some leeway to put something on top of the switch.

The housing is designed for a metal lever as well...

Take John-H's recommended switch and transplant the metal lever ...  
re-use the switch and mounting mechanism.

I have a working switch and will try to fit it on the weekend to give it some roadtesting, but its working fine on the bench.


















I would guess it will be possible to get a cheaper switch to transplant the spring clip from as well.


----------



## RobLE

all sounds pretty technical to me!!!! :?


----------



## Wak

RobLE said:


> all sounds pretty technical to me!!!! :?












"THUNK" slaps head falls over backwards and collapses on floor!

:lol:


----------



## KenTT

Nice work Wak & John.


----------



## John-H

I thought we were going to be treated to photos of a candle lit dinner :lol:

That should extend the mechanical life of the existing switch but with a ruptured rubber bit it's not sealed. If it gets wet it will fail. Hopefully it won't get wet in service. What do you think?

Your lateral thinking makes a fix easy though and you might be able to get hold of levers separately and very cheaply.

If you had drilled holes for the new switch, to make it easily repeatable on more locks, you could always make a template/jig from the prototype and make drilling easy and accurate in future. That way you could use the sealed switch.

I'll see if I can source levers if you like.


----------



## Wak

A supply of levers would be good.

The original rubber cap isnt complete, it has a hole in it anyway its not really water tight, water resistant perhaps the switch design is pretty resilient I rekon you will get a similar service life out of the fix.

FYI
the inside (taken from vwvortex) has 3 more micro switches, plastic parts and a motor... still plenty to go wrong, but this may give you an extension on life for a lot less than Â£82+fitting!


----------



## TTotal

Wak said:


> Ok, It was right under my nose staring me in the face!
> 
> The switch body is generic and has been designed for a couple of options.
> 
> Although the rubber cap has disintegrated the switch mechanism looks clean enough so I doubt it would get any worse even though the rubber has gone.
> 
> As the rubber has gone, you have some leeway to put something on top of the switch.
> 
> The housing is designed for a metal lever as well...
> 
> Take John-H's recommended switch and transplant the metal lever ...
> re-use the switch and mounting mechanism.
> 
> I have a working switch and will try to fit it on the weekend to give it some roadtesting, but its working fine on the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess it will be possible to get a cheaper switch to transplant the spring clip from as well.


Nice one Boss !


----------



## Andyman

I tried to fix mine at the weekend but unfortunately my micro switch had completely disintegrated. The plunger part of the mechanism was gone and it was filled with muck. I tried Aralditing the replacement switch as I mentioned earlier but as Wak predicted it was impossible to position accurately enough to activate reliably.

Looks like I'm going to have to go for a new mechanism after all.

Andy.


----------



## TTotal

Andyman said:


> I tried to fix mine at the weekend but unfortunately my micro switch had completely disintegrated. The plunger part of the mechanism was gone and it was filled with muck. I tried Aralditing the replacement switch as I mentioned earlier but as Wak predicted it was impossible to position accurately enough to activate reliably.
> 
> Looks like I'm going to have to go for a new mechanism after all.
> 
> Andy.


I got a very good used one from a breaker on here, try the 24/7 spares folk? Good luck

J


----------



## John-H

It's a pity the microswitch turns out to be (unusually) non standard. And I've not managed to source levers on their own - which won't help everybody anyway. Still looking ...


----------



## RobLE

Hi,

So how come my window does drop as it should when getting out of the car - ie., opening the door to get out, but doesn't 'always' when opening the door after unlocking! :roll:

On another note, my nearside Xenon stopped working today. Drove to the garage for them to change the bulb. Turned off ignition, back on again and hey-presto, it works??!! :? :roll:

Rob


----------



## John-H

Intermittent faults - don't you just love-em :-*

I've had an occasional fault on my RS2000 where it fails to turn over on the starter - usually when you stall at the lights or doing a three point turn and blocking the road  . I've got to get out with a piece of wire to start it! When it's back home and I've got the equipment to find the fault, it works faultlessley :roll: Can I trace the fault? No  It's been doing this occasionally for a few years.

Sounds like you might have been visited by the intermittent fairy too. I've heard of the starter circuit having intermittent start-up problems on Xenon units. Sometimes turning them off and on again works but the problem is likely to get worse over time.

Does the door switch unfailingly operate when getting out but ever only not work when getting in? Try unlocking with the key when inside the car but pulling the internal handle to see if it's any different. I suspect it's the switch though.


----------



## TTotal

> Try unlocking with the key when inside the car but pulling the internal handle to see if it's any different


I did that and was locked in the car at Winchester, had to drive to Wak's in Staines to get out 

The bloke in Audi Driver magazine (Not Caney  ) with a locked door had to have his door card cut open to release it! Cost him nearly Â£500.


----------



## John-H

Presumably yours wouldn't unlock at all for some reason otherwise you could at the very least open the window and use the key on the lock mechanically.


----------



## TTotal

Yeh suppose I could have opened the roof too.... :lol:


----------



## John-H

Good excuse to pay Wak a visit :lol:


----------



## TTotal

John-H said:


> Good excuse to pay Wak a visit :lol:


No he dont charge me ... :roll:


----------



## ttroy225

I've had this problem for ages.. Never occurred I could lock my keys in.

Cheers John

P.s Hurry up and solve this one chaps (Wak) :wink:


----------



## Wak

ttroy225 said:


> I've had this problem for ages.. Never occurred I could lock my keys in.
> 
> Cheers John
> 
> P.s Hurry up and solve this one chaps (Wak) :wink:


Page 4 is the current favourite!


----------



## spiderman439

following a hard frost, my drivers window does not drop the 10mm when the door is opened from the outside (it works fine when opened from the inside) If you shake the open door the windows drops.
Would this be caused by the switch fault as described?????

Audi Leics said they don't know of a common problem with these switches, how I laughed!!!!


----------



## Wak

spiderman439 said:


> following a hard frost, my drivers window does not drop the 10mm when the door is opened from the outside (it works fine when opened from the inside) If you shake the open door the windows drops.
> Would this be caused by the switch fault as described?????
> 
> Audi Leics said they don't know of a common problem with these switches, how I laughed!!!!


try manually operating the locking latch with a screw driver and see if pulling outer or inner door handle makes a difference.

I suspect its just that its borderline and the pull/push effort is different leaving in the latch on or off on the switch...

on second thoughts, if you say after a hard frost, and it works after shaking, it sounds like its just an ice problem! 
:?


----------



## spiderman439

Not had my TT long, is it easy to get the door card off to check the switch out????


----------



## YELLOW_TT

spiderman439 said:


> Not had my TT long, is it easy to get the door card off to check the switch out????


Yes have a look here ther is a how to + loads of TT info www.wak-tt.com


----------



## spiderman439

Well hows my look, it's not ice causing the problem think the switch has gone as the windows does not drop at all now (inside or outside operation)
does anyone know of a good inexpensive place to take it for repair in the Midlands & roughly what the cost will be ??????


----------



## John-H

I went to the Cia Burgess website and found the following information. This page shows the variants of a microswitch whereby the top piece can be removed and swapped with the damaged original

: http://www.saia-switch.com/mediando/ind ... roduct=101

















The best one to get may be one with a lever attached but here are the variants:

V4NCT7 solder plunger 250 VAC 5 A - 
V4NCS cable 500 mm plunger 250 VAC 5 A - 
*V4NCT7A1 solder plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A - *
*V4NCSA1 cable 500 mm plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -* 
V4NCT7AR solder roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A - 
V4NCSAR cable 500 mm roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -

I've not checked out the UK distributors but details of distributors are on the Burgess website: http://www.johnsonelectric.com/Sales-Lo ... no_cache=1

There's also a European supplier: https://www1.elfa.se/
35-831-43 : V4NCST7 (solder terminals) and 35-831-50 V4NCSK2-0,5M (embedded cables, 50cm).

I think I'd still feel happier changing the entire switch but the lower part of the original appears to be custom made with non standard mounting hole pegs:










Here's a Cherry switch next to the original - you can see the holes are a different spacing so you can't simply mount it on screws through the holes. Filing out the holes into slots might work though.










Still, good to be able to replace the seal and plunger top piece. Thanks to Vik's for finding it  . http://www.********.co.uk/ttforumbbs/vi ... sc&start=0.


----------



## Wak

Its a good find, but for the repairs I do I'll stick to the Lever mechanism.

I think it will cope better with the variing damage that occurs to the base of the lock catch.









If you replaces the switch head it may work for a while , but you can only smooth the damage a little and the lever acts as a sledge, changing the head would still leave the switch head exposed to the now rougher surface I would guess! :?


----------



## LuTTon

> I have exactly those symptoms, and have been looking for a fix. I've been quoted over Â£200 to get it fixed at a local garage (specialising in Audi/VW), and i'm guessing its gonna cost a good deal more from Audi themselves? Anybody had a quote from Audi?


.... Yeah Audi said they'd happily pop anther switch in for me for a mere £350! Bargain!


----------



## koopa

recently done this one myself, bought part for €130 (bout £95) for complete switch module, followed WAK's procedure and done, time start to finish about 60mins. There is plenty online info to do this one on your own, no removing windows, in fact I didnt even need to completly remove the door card.


----------



## matteeee

How is the wire(s?) from the handle released?


----------



## John-H

Wak said:


> Its a good find, but for the repairs I do I'll stick to the Lever mechanism.
> 
> I think it will cope better with the variing damage that occurs to the base of the lock catch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you replaces the switch head it may work for a while , but you can only smooth the damage a little and the lever acts as a sledge, changing the head would still leave the switch head exposed to the now rougher surface I would guess! :?


I don't think I saw your reply first time round Wak - totally agree about the lever - it's just that with the replacement switch top it's all nicely sealed again too - but yes get a lever to go with it :wink:


----------



## KentishTT

Is there a solution to the wear on the lock assembly yet?

I currently have this problem with my car and it'd be nice to know that the long term issue can be addressed during the remedial action.


----------



## LuTTon

Wak did have a fix for this but apparently he doesn't do it any more since he found that the majority of door lock's have worn beyond repair 

My new lock set me back £98 from Audi but Wak did an excellent job fitting it for the bargain price of £30


----------



## sean.ui

My microswitch is gone - sounds like it's just easier to replace the whole lock unit? Anyone have a part number handy?


----------



## Phil_LG

A part number differnt to the one I already gave you in your original thread? :roll: 
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=144087

Phil


----------



## sean.ui

Phil_LG said:


> A part number differnt to the one I already gave you in your original thread? :roll:
> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=144087
> 
> Phil


Ah, sorry mate - dunno what I was thinking - completely forgot you put them in that thread - and I even replied. I think I need more sleep


----------



## Parker.

Well done chaps, have exactly the same issue with mine but have not got around to getting it fixed as its been a very minor irritation. With the exception of the car banishing me from driving by way of locking the keys in the car :roll: Saying that, all of 25 seconds it took me to back into the locked car :roll: I assume as this switch is generally used as a trigger for door open/close, the alarm didn't sound until I triggered the interior sensor.


----------



## Phil_LG

sean.ui said:


> Ah, sorry mate - dunno what I was thinking - completely forgot you put them in that thread - and I even replied. I think I need more sleep


Hehe, no worries mate. If you want to let me know your chassis number I can confirm what rev you need too. 

Phil


----------



## Phil_LG

Parker. said:


> Well done chaps, have exactly the same issue with mine but have not got around to getting it fixed as its been a very minor irritation. With the exception of the car banishing me from driving by way of locking the keys in the car :roll: Saying that, all of 25 seconds it took me to back into the locked car :roll: I assume as this switch is generally used as a trigger for door open/close, the alarm didn't sound until I triggered the interior sensor.


Yeah, I would guess it would be used for everything that senses whether the doors are open or not (window drop/lift, warning light, alarm etc).

Phil


----------



## sean.ui

Phil_LG said:


> sean.ui said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, sorry mate - dunno what I was thinking - completely forgot you put them in that thread - and I even replied. I think I need more sleep
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe, no worries mate. If you want to let me know your chassis number I can confirm what rev you need too.
> 
> Phil
Click to expand...

Just noticed this now - thanks for the offer Phil - I've a mate who's in the parts business so I'll see can he source something for me first. Cheers though, appreciate the help


----------



## Alec's TT

Sorry to bring this from the dead, but is the general idea to replace the locks now? i read probably 6 different post and did not find one sure switch or set of instructions. Can someone help me out?
Thanks, Alec


----------



## Shalo

Guys, thanks for all the info youve posted on here regarding the switch issue, i too have the same problem. i tried several things but i did find a real simple fix that should work for a while so here it is.

The two little plastic locating dowels that locate in body, i cut one off so it allowed swtich to pivot on the other, i then put some small plastic shim behind the clip to force the switch to rotate slightly onto the cam, works on the bench so im now going to try it in the car.

Pic attached to show what ive done

Later on......... Tested works fine.


----------



## John-H

So that's using the existing switch and making it press harder onto the cam?


----------



## Shalo

John-H said:


> So that's using the existing switch and making it press harder onto the cam?


Yes mate, I did cut off the plastic laminate of the cam with a craft knife also so it doesn't pick up and break the micro switch pin.


----------



## John-H

My memory is a bit rusty but in the Knowledge base I think we identified a source for a new switch. If you get the one with a lever you can use that as a follower for the cam and adjust it.


----------



## danchiefton

I have 2 rather simple questions..

1. The window is meant to drop when the door is opened, however what activates the switch, is it from the movement of pulling to door handle open or is it the door catch mechanism openin?

2. Do I have to unbolt the locking mechanism from the car to access the microswitch?

Oh, can this be a sticky with a defined list of part numbers and suppliers?


----------



## Shalo

danchiefton said:


> I have 2 rather simple questions..
> 
> 1. The window is meant to drop when the door is opened, however what activates the switch, is it from the movement of pulling to door handle open or is it the door catch mechanism openin?
> 
> 2. Do I have to unbolt the locking mechanism from the car to access the microswitch?
> 
> Oh, can this be a sticky with a defined list of part numbers and suppliers?


1. Catch mechanism has switch on it.
2. You must unbolt it, you need a spline tool to remove it (not torx)


----------



## owenar

Could anyone advise me how to remove the door lock cover (8N0 837 350 A) it doesn't seem to want to budge and I don't want to force just in case I break it..

I am new to these forum things so please forgive me if I have posted it the wrong place etc..


----------



## CRU57Y

Hi, I'm new to TT as well. I've found a wealth of information on this site. 
http://www.wak-tt.com/

Here's the link to the Door Card removal. It's the easiest door trim of any car I've ever owned.
http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/doorpanel/doorpanel.htm

Cheers.


----------



## merlin c

So time to sort out that bloody passenger door switch, window drops when cornering, window does not drop when door is opened, interior light does not come on either, and alarm sometimes goes off..................

Took door card off (thanks to Wak and John for their contributions) removed the lock, very fiddly :? 
Then removed limit switch and tested, open circuit when pressed, closed circuit if shaken????....... as you can see from the pictures the internal horse shoe contact had become detached because the retaining plastic lug for the spring had snapped off!! so when lateral forces were applied when driving, the horse shoe contact and the spring were thrown across the contacts causing the intermittent window dropping. 




Trip to Maplins to buy new rocker switch 



Then I fitted the switch with epoxy resin and soldered terminals 









Tested again when reconnected to car, window drops and raises when door is opened/closed, interior light works when passenger door is opened...........4 hours, very cold, but happy as a pig in shit now  :lol:


----------



## StuartDB

#winner did this change today - now my window drops and raises  and my buzzer works but the one touch is rubbish still I put silicon spray on the runners - dont think that was the right thing to do.

it's a pain to try and get the side mouldings back in properly and the plastic cover over the latch. I cut the old wires and just crimped the sensor Karl (desertstorm) gave me the details for from ebay - £6.89 and about 40 minutes would be quicker to do again it literally takes about 4 minutes to remove the door card.

got the DAB aerial sorted too.


----------



## Hoggy

Hi Stuart, Silicone spray won't do any harm..Have you tried a window reset ?
Normal procedure is Door open, Ign on, engine running is better as battery at full volts.
Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds. Repeat more than once.
Hoggy.


----------



## StuartDB

Hi Hoggy, 
Yes I have reset the windows, I don't mean the one touch doesn't work as such, more to do with whilst it is closing after the one touch, it thinks it has hit an obstacle (arm, head, neck etc) and goes back down again.

Thanks


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, I would have said use silicon spray, but you already have. Door card off & see whats happening & spray some silicone around cables & guide inside door.
Hoggy.


----------



## StuartDB

okay cool thanks, I will have another go at it


----------



## Wak

For the future you can buy good microswitches on eBay now designed for this repair

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2522346126


----------



## John-H

Thanks for that Wak. My drivers side has gone intermittent so I'll order one of those. Are they sealed do you know?


----------



## Wak

Sorry don't know John. Hopefully you'll still get good life from them


----------



## John-H

Yes, the pictures seem to show two different switches - one obviously sealed and one possibly not. I emailed them and apparently their "customer service girls are having a rest at weekend now".

I'll let you know.


----------



## David C

There are a few UK suppliers on eBay too.
May be a better chance of a reply from the UK rather than China.


----------



## Wak

Personally using these switches is more a backup to a switch repair.
As you can see some switches break internally so one of these is the best option.

I much prefer the repair to use a lever and add it to the oem microswitch where its just worn and you reuse it with the lever modded to fit, available from rs components


----------



## HOGG

Would it not be easier to replace the whole lock?


----------



## David C

HOGG said:


> Would it not be easier to replace the whole lock?


Yes. A lot easier.

Cheap replacement locks have only recently become available. When I changed mine the only option was OEM, which was well over £100.


----------



## HOGG

I'm confused as to what mechanism I have. I believe my car has a 8n2837016b
BUT I don't see any new ones on eBay.

HELP


----------



## rubberjohnson

HOGG said:


> I'm confused as to what mechanism I have. I believe my car has a 8n2837016b
> BUT I don't see any new ones on eBay.
> 
> HELP


Same here. Just stumbled on this thread having started another with similar switch problems. I'm going to order some of the levers to cover the switch from RS, I'll let you know how I get on - I have to order at least 5, so I may have some spare if all goes well...


----------



## HOGG

That be cool


----------



## David C

HOGG said:


> I'm confused as to what mechanism I have. I believe my car has a 8n2837016b
> BUT I don't see any new ones on eBay.


You'll get a new one from any VAG parts department.


----------



## HOGG

David C said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confused as to what mechanism I have. I believe my car has a 8n2837016b
> BUT I don't see any new ones on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll get a new one from any VAG parts department.
Click to expand...

LOL. For a price


----------



## David C

HOGG said:


> David C said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confused as to what mechanism I have. I believe my car has a 8n2837016b
> BUT I don't see any new ones on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll get a new one from any VAG parts department.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> LOL. For a price
Click to expand...

Obviously.
But do you want a new one or not?


----------



## rubberjohnson

OK...
Levers arrived from RS, fixed my door in about 25 minutes. 8)

Here is the switch before the lever went on:








And here it is after:








And here it is all back in place:









I removed as much as I could of the rough plastic covering the cam as it seemed unnecessary and just liable to catch on the lever.

I now have some spares of the lever - three, since I want to keep hold of one myself. If anyone would like one/some of them, just let me know.

Price = good vibes.

First dibs to HOGG.
[smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## HOGG

Yes please


----------



## rubberjohnson

How many?


----------



## HOGG

rubberjohnson said:


> How many?


Only need one


----------



## rubberjohnson

Message me your address, I'll send it today.
Anyone else want one?


----------



## HOGG

rubberjohnson said:


> Message me your address, I'll send it today.
> Anyone else want one?


Done


----------



## HOGG

Whoop whoop


----------



## rawlins

Hey fellas, Have you got a link to the correct product on the RS Components site?

When fitting to the existing switch does it clip into place or did you glue it?


----------



## John-H

Suppliers started doing repair kits such as this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Pair-Of-Le ... SwpYpcaAzs

And as it has the carrier and the two pips should just clip into place.

I bought something similar for mine only it looked like this with the lever in place which overcomes wear on the look mechanism actuator cam plastic coating:


----------



## David C

rawlins said:


> Hey fellas, Have you got a link to the correct product on the RS Components site?
> 
> When fitting to the existing switch does it clip into place or did you glue it?


If you're talking about the lever, you may want to check the condition of your switch first.
On mine the button was totally destroyed, clipping a lever over it wouldn't have got it working again.


----------



## rawlins

Thanks John, I have seen a few repair kits from time to time, I shall have a hunt on eBay, preferably for one with the metal tab.

I guess if tab ones are not available the RS Components tab could be fitted in addition.

@David, that's a good shout, I shall pick up full switches too as a backup I think.


----------



## adgieman

I've got this to do on my Roadster. Is the ebay a like for like replacement then? IE cut two wires, splice in the new and thats it? https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go ... SwpYpcaAzs

The current switches i know dont work but not their condition. its a 2001 so likely shot.. could this be the cause of my batter drain? The car currently thinking its not locked?? After around 1.5-2 weeks not used the batter is completely dead.


----------



## John-H

Yes, the switch with its two pips to locate, fits under a clip. The wires splice into the originals. The only issue you may have is wear on the cam plastic covering which can be chewed up. That's why the levered version was better - so some smoothing may be required of the cam.

It shouldn't affect the battery unless there's another issue. How new is your battery - it might be low on capacity? An alarm siren or dashpod fault are possibilities but check your battery.


----------



## npmb777

NOT on ebay any longer. My reply intended for WAK because 'his' ebay switches are NLA - according to ebay.


----------



## npmb777

As above.


----------



## davebowk

npmb777 said:


> My reply was intended for WAK because 'his' ebay switches are NLA - according to ebay.


If you don't want to mess about and risk something else being worn i have just got one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-ROAD ... 2749.l2649


----------



## John-H

If you click my eBay link above it still finds product. The picture shows it's minus the lever now and has different heat shrink but you may not need the lever and you can get them separately - they have a standard of fit for the switch size.

There are plenty of contenders on eBay just do a search. I recently replaced a switch and it was listed for a Golf but the fit was the same.


----------



## npmb777

Ancient eBay link from WAK does not work in 2021.


----------



## npmb777

John-H link is for a complete [but cheap - Chinese ?] switch


----------



## npmb777

Sorry - link to lock assy. was from davebowk. John-H link seems to be switch from China ...


----------



## Essex2Visuvesi

npmb777 said:


> Sorry - link to lock assy. was from davebowk. John-H link seems to be switch from China ...


I've bought a couple of these, and they look to be OK quality no slop in the mechansisms, my roadster is in storage at the moment and the latest coupe has working switches so not had opportunity to fit them


----------



## npmb777

My view ... Chinese are truly brilliant at making things LOOK good - the serious question is are the materials any good ?

I have bought [unknowingly at the time - thanks to BML] Chinese bearings that did not last long.:twisted:

My 'new' 225 has a non-working OS microswitch (yet to be investigated).


----------



## npmb777

As an example of just how out-of-date some posts are >
John-H put up a link years ago for a Farnell Data Sheet [expecting a microswitch] ... BUT now it links to a "'ladder stopper" ! Moral is > DO NOT LOOK AT HISTORIC LISTINGS ?


----------



## John-H

Well the Farnell ones usually last longer than the eBay ones :roll:


----------



## npmb777

?? I did not mention _life_ of switches - just that Farnell link no longer works. i.e. well out-of-date.


----------



## John-H

I meant the links last longer


----------



## npmb777

NOW I understand. Thanks. :roll:


----------



## npmb777

Midway through changing drivers lock - managed to break thin alloy [Mazak ?] 'cage' on both lock end AND on lock end of 
'spade-ended ' rod - [not normally so useless - honestly]. Bought s/h handle with lock and spade from eBay so will try and fix ... :roll:

P.S. found lock O-ring was broken - ages ago.


----------



## TT22

npmb777 said:


> My view ... Chinese are truly brilliant at making things LOOK good - the serious question is are the materials any good ?
> 
> I have bought [unknowingly at the time - thanks to BML] Chinese bearings that did not last long.:twisted:
> 
> My 'new' 225 has a non-working OS microswitch (yet to be investigated).


Personally id just buy a complete new lock assembly,i bought one last year from vag it was about 170 quid,drivers side was still available.Passenger side discontinued.


----------



## Essex2Visuvesi

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133343406400
I ordered a complete assy from the seller above, been on the car since February and its been in daily use, so far no issues whatsoever


----------



## TT22

Essex2Visuvesi said:


> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133343406400
> I ordered a complete assy from the seller above, been on the car since February and its been in daily use, so far no issues whatsoever


Good call for the future


----------



## davebowk

Fitted a new door lock today. The micro switch was good but the plastic coating on the cam had worn away.


----------

