# How to: Oil & Filter Change on the 3.2 VR6



## TT4LEE (Mar 8, 2015)

Audi TT with the 3.2 litre VR6 engine.










*Supplies*

5.2-litres* of synthetic motor oil meeting the Audi/VW 505.01 / 502.00 specifications. My manual says use 5W40 (or 5W30 or 0W40). I used Mobil 1 0W40.

New filter (I used the Mann HU 719/7x - which is identical to the Audi/VW part but only costs about $10 - it didn't come with a new crush washer for the oil drain plug)

New crush washer for each oil change (M14x20mmx1.5mm) (note: the oil drain plug is M14x1.5 size in case you want a spare on hand should the old one be damaged)

* Note - Start by re-filling with 5-liters, then drive the car for a few minutes and check the level again to avoid over filling. Top up as needed.

*Tools -*

• Method of raising the car (wheel ramps and chocks work well)
• T25, T30, T45 Torx screwdriver for removing belly pan
• 19 mm wrench or socket for removing the oil drain plug
• 36 mm socket for removing the oil filter housing (or the special Audi/VW tool)
• Oil drain pan to catch the used oil.
• Paper towels

*Setup -*

Raise the car - I find ramps ideal for this job. Use wheel chocks. Parking brake on!










Remove the belly pan under the engine (held on by a variety of torx screws). Mine had some oil splatter from a prior owner, which I cleaned up.










*Drain -*

Locate the oil pan drain bolt, its 19 mm. Unscrew it with the oil drain pan underneath to catch the 5.2 or so litres that will drain out.
























*Remove oil filter housing - *

It's possible to remove the drain bolt in the centre of the oil filter housing, but that seems like an unnecessary risk if it doesn't seal properly when you tighten it back. I just unscrewed the oil filter housing using a 36 mm socket and had the oil pan below it to catch the oil (perhaps 300 ml or so) that immediately spills out of the housing. You can see that it is also possible to use an Audi/VW specific wrench that goes around the circumference of the housing (but why buy a special tool if you don't have to).










One day I might buy this nicer aftermarket housing with a much better designed drain plug.










*Finish up -*

Install a new filter. First replace the o-ring that seals the filter housing, pry off the old one with a small flat screwdriver, and roll on the new one. Wipe some oil onto the o-ring and the small o-ring that is mounted on the filter itself. Place the filter in the housing with the pointy end up and carefully screw it on taking note that nothing binds.










Top up the oil through the filler on the top of the engine, add 5.2 litres provided you fully drained the oil and replaced the oil filter. Check oil level with dipstick after driving and letting the oil drain to the pan. May need to add up to 300 ml to fully reach 5.5 litre capacity.

To reset the oil service interval you can try the following:

Switch the ignition on (but don't start engine). There are two knobs at the bottom of the speedometer pod. Pull the knob on the right side (message appears "Service in XXXkm/YYY days"). Release knob. Within 5 seconds pull the same knob out (message appears "Service in *km/* days"). Turn off ignition.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Wonderful instruction - and just in time - I'm doing mine next weekend but I really hate it when I have to buy two tubs of oil (5l each) for an oil change. The four cylinder engines take less than 5l so you only need one tub.

That said, my other car a Porsche boxster takes 9l. Maybe I should buy 3 tubs and do them both!

Especially useful is the part number for the filter. This will enable me to make sure I've got the right piece in advance of the job.


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## bmcc (Mar 11, 2015)

Done an oil change on my V6 last weekend and only ended up putting in about 5.2L of Oil with filter change. Bentley Manual says to put in 0.5L less than max oil (5.5l with filter) then run up to about 60C and check for leaks. Fill up to max after this (waited 20 mins just to be sure most had drained back to the sump)

I only say this as if I had put in 5.5L then I would have overfilled with oil which is not recommended due to possible damage to the catalytic converter.


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## TT4LEE (Mar 8, 2015)

I'll update the original post to say add 5.2 litres then check (good advice against overfilling since the amount removed can vary). I'll also add how to reset the oil service indicator since most DIY'ers will want to know how. Thanks for the feedback. I realize this is a super simple job, but for some people it may be their first change to interact with servicing their car - and getting into DIY is a good thing.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just to pick up where this left off five years ago, for the 3.2 VR-6 (BUB) engine oil filter cap and cartridge there are three o-rings to look for; (1) a small one on the end of the oil cartridge stem (2) the small o-ring that goes on the cap plug (3) the large o-ring for the housing cap which is usually included with the filter cartridge. And don't forget about (4) the oil sump drain plug crush washer.









Lubricate all of the o-rings with fresh oil before installation. Roll them on, don't stretch them! Check that the filter element is properly seated. Before putting the under body panels back on it's a good idea to let the engine run for a minute or two so it builds up pressure. Shut it down and check for leaks just in case an o-ring was pinched or totally forgotten.

While not specified in the workshop manuals, some people place the filter cartridge into the cap and then fill it with oil and let it sit for a few minutes prior to installation. The intention is for the filter to soak up as much oil as possible and to have some oil in the filter housing when the engine is started. Just be careful of any spills when installing the cap and filter and be sure to wipe away any drips so you can check for good seal after the initial engine start.

Often overlooked, the cap has a drain plug. For whatever reason, Audi decided not to incorporate the valve that the 1.8 and 2.0 engines enjoy since they can use a drain tube that screws into the cap itself and avoids a huge mess. So rather than ending up with oil everywhere, it's worth removing the plug to at least minimize the mess and be sure to change the o-ring.

For anyone who might be interested, there's a company called *Stahlbus* who makes oil drain valves which can replace both the oil sump drain bolt. If you replace the plastic OEM oil filter housing with the ESC Billet Aluminum shown above, you can insert a Stahlbus valve in that too. These will make oil change a breeze and avoid a huge mess - more *here**.*


























Simple way to avoid this mess!










Here's a bit more information on oil changes and how to do the Oil Service Reset and SRI reset -

*How to: Audi TT (8J) Oil Service & SRI Reset*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1836777










Unlike canister filters, cartridges pose some additional challenges and require a bit more attention when installing. Here's some tips from one of the Automotive Technical resources used by commercial service centers and oil change shops .

*Cleanliness is Key*: After the old cartridge filter is removed, clean the cap and housing. This is about the only way you are going to be able to spot cracks and damaged threads.

*Roll the O-rings*: Do not pull, pry or stretch the new O-rings during installation. Lightly lubricate the O-ring and roll it in over the threads to the correct position on the housing.

*Use the Correct Tool to Remove the Housing*: Just because a housing has wrench flats doesn't mean you can use a conventional wrench, socket or even pliers to remove it. Tool suppliers have a wide selection of cartridge oil filter tools that will pay for themselves by preventing such a problem.

*Be Gentle When Removing the O-rings*: Never use a tool method to cut the O-rings off the housing - doing so may accidentally damage the threads or sealing surface. Even the smallest scratch or gouge can cause a leak.

*Apply Oil to the O-rings*: Always apply clean engine oil to the new O-rings and the O-ring grooves in the housing cap. This helps to create a better seal because the O-rings will not bunch up or twist when the housing is installed.

*Look Up the Specifications and Service Information*: Don't guess the torque specs; look them up.

*Replace the Housing if You are in Doubt*: If you see any damage that could possibly cause a leak or failure, recommend a new housing.

*Inspect the Filter*: The old cartridge oil filter can tell you a lot about the engine. Inspect the pleats for damage like tears and deformation. This could be a sign that the cartridge oil filter was not installed properly during the last service. It can also indicate that the filter was clogged and restricted oil flow. Also, look at the end caps of the cartridge oil filter for separation of the sealing surface.


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## Joba87 (Jan 1, 2020)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Just to pick up where this left off, here's a bit more information on oil changes and how to do the oil change reset -
> 
> *How to: Audi TT (8J) Oil Service & SRI Reset*
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1836777


Pretty sure the How To is wrong though cuz the SRI can be reset by pulling the trip knob a second time (Like the OP says), no need for a VCDS.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

There are two different functions; Oil Service Reset & Service Reminder Interval Reset. The Oil Service Reset can be done on the instrument panel or with an OBDeleven. However the Service Reminder Interval (SRI) requires a VCDS or OBDeleven.


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