# FAQ - Failing Window regulator



## robokn

Well my passenger side window has just gone so that will be both in less than four years, it's a joke shit parts.

My father in laws bug 206 150k on the clock, six years older than TT and no issues at all

Audi really need to be aware of this so can all those who have had this issue please post below I am going to war on this


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## tgorman

Passenger side last week 
Had to manually wind the window to get it up


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## CapoGT

wow sounds very bad indeed. for future reference, (hoping it wont ever happen to me) can you post how to wind the window up manually. Very handy to know in the winter.

Ps. does this happen in both Coupe and Roadster?


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## robokn

Not sure but could have saved me £300, In at Southampton Audi and they are going to ask Audi UK for a contribution as they have seen quite a few as well :twisted:


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## Gyorgy

Mine went about this time last year on a 3+ year old car.
It's a design fault, and not fit for purpose springs to mind.


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## ScoobyTT

robokn said:


> Audi really need to be aware of this so can all those who have had this issue please post below I am going to war on this


Audi are aware of it. That's why they have a "named component" warranty option that covers everything but the window regulator. They're aware, they obviously just can't be arsed to fix what is an obvious design flaw.



CapoGT said:


> Ps. does this happen in both Coupe and Roadster?


Yes. They both have the same window mechanism.


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## robokn

The motor had burned out as well so the bill now comes to £580 BUT Audi have contributed so it comes out at £330


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## hope88

wtf £580 for one window motor??? Hmmm.... might as well sell up and get a GTR at this rate


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## kevin34

I have the same problem in passenger window, in a 3,5 years old TT.
It's a shame!!!! :x 
Audi Quality?¿? :lol: 
And they don't fix it for free, but It's a common fault...?
I think it will be my last Audi for sure.


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## Neil M

My 57 roadster driver's side window went after 3.5 years.

Luckly for me I was trading it in for a TTS, so my dealer made an audi contribution of 50%. However when York Audi nicked my order slot , part of the compensation was to pay in full for the repair.

N


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## Mark 2

robokn said:


> The motor had burned out as well so the bill now comes to £580 BUT Audi have contributed so it comes out at £330


IMO if its a fault that Audi recognise that a part is not as good as it should be, then they should replace FREE of charge or recall as this could be potentially a very embarrassing situation, especially if you get caught in the rain.

Then again from past experiences Audi are always slow to sort out issues.


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## ScoobyTT

kevin34 said:


> I have the same problem in passenger window, in a 3,5 years old TT.
> It's a shame!!!! :x
> Audi Quality?¿? :lol:
> And they don't fix it for free, but It's a common fault...?
> I think it will be my last Audi for sure.


Some might say it's a bit of a racket. Part with known fault, expensive to replace due to having to strip the doors = PROFIT!

I don't understand the problem though, other than somehow the mechanism can end up chewing itself or the wiring to bits. My last car was over a decade old when I traded it in and had ZERO problems. The rest of the car industry seems to have had reliable and faultless electric windows sewn up for YEARS.


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## markuk

robokn said:


> The motor had burned out as well so the bill now comes to £580 BUT Audi have contributed so it comes out at £330


 Mine went a few months back, but my bill was £180 fitted by local indy garage (Lion Garage Leicester) including parts and labour - so just goes to show how much the dealers rip you off !


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## electech

CapoGT said:


> wow sounds very bad indeed. for future reference, (hoping it wont ever happen to me) can you post how to wind the window up manually. Very handy to know in the winter.


I second that, as I had one of mine replaced under warranty in the first year of of ownership.


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## DXN

I had drivers side regulator break

My local garage said the drainage holes in the door get blocked from the wax the car gets covered in from factory

Common on many VAG cars

The wire fractures round the lower pulleys and can't be wound backwards once the window is dropped

It's the only thing my 56 plate has had go wrong (fingers crossed bar a tyre issue )


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## denTTed

robokn said:


> Not sure but could have saved me £300, In at Southampton Audi and they are going to ask Audi UK for a contribution as they have seen quite a few as well :twisted:


Mine went too, but parts are about £100 fitting is straight forward only about 6 screws/torx to do it and about a half hour of your day.


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## UlsTTer

Mine stuck down also, managed to get the door panel off (with great difficulty) and get it pushed up temporarily

Have booked it in with Audi dealership in january who are going to ask Audi UK to look into contributing to the cost
(is that an acknowledgement that they accept there IS some design fault) .. will post again when work is done :roll:


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## The_wanderer

My right side went last spring and the left a couple of month later, but the Audi repair shop here in Sweden changed it for free, or to be exact, Audi Sweden took 80% of the cost and the shop took the last 20% so i didn't have to pay anything.

Yes this most be a construction fault. But i'm happy that i didn't have to pay anything even the car was 3 years old... this time


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## Sonatina

Hi Rob!

Both of my window regulator's failed within the space of a week on my TT and JUST inside (by a week believe it or not!)warranty of three years - shit parts indeed. And how VERY inconvenient it is to when these things fail. Mine is documented elsewhere on here as the first happened nearly 200 miles from home (I'd been to the TT Shop for some work) and I had to come up three motorways with the glass inside the door - couldn't hear myself think and it was raining for some of the journey. Then the car had to sit all weekend on my drive til I could get it booked in. Not acceptable for what we have to pay for this car.
But that's not the end of the window saga as now, in my S5, I've just had both window regulators changed under warranty again about a month ago - Audi citing them as a known fault. To make matters worse, according to the history, my car has had one window regulator replaced before i even bought the car!  :x What is most annoying is the amount of time taken for the dealers to discuss the warranty issue and whether they will make you contribute toward it.
:wink: 
Cheers, Mark


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## Andy Mundo

As a 'new' owner of a four year old MK2 (purchased last Nov), this has just happened to me too - drivers side.

Audi Sheffield seemed to want to help, but I'd need to wait about a week before they'd look at it (and courtesy cars were booked up until well into Jan), a local, established and trusted auto electrician, took it in the same day, rung me a few hours later with a full explanation of the problem (again window regulator), gave me a quote of around £200 all in.

Picked up the following day at a cost of £220 (inc VAT), back to being a happy TT bunny again!


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## TTitan

sorry to report, at 58,000 miles on 4.5 yr TTR, drivers side went out.

this needs to be retro-active pay back item. not happy . 

JIM


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## DPG

Happened in my MK1, I had to have both sides replaced.

Cant believe Audi havent sorted it out yet.

Quality brand my arse

EDIT: This also happened in my MK4 Golf TDi so it must be a VAG thing.


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## UlsTTer

DPG said:


> Happened in my MK1, I had to have both sides replaced.
> 
> Cant believe Audi havent sorted it out yet.
> 
> *Quality brand my arse*
> EDIT: This also happened in my MK4 Golf TDi so it must be a VAG thing.


*UPDATE*

Finally put my car into Audi dealership (drivers window having gone)

Invoice came to over £300 .. thats with parts and 2 hours labour :x

Thats with Audi UK paying half the £99 part

If I had a Skoda I would not expect this part to go so WHY should it be accepted on a _*'supposedly' quality make of car*_.. it's just not on, and Audi OF COURSE claim to have no knowledge of it being a regular fault on the TT

Having had the Mk1 and now this Mk2 and had aLL the common faults PLUS many many more I have had ENOUGH .. I have shown this brand more than enough loyalty . .they are of *SH*TE BUILD* if I'm honest .. *happy .. I AM NOT*


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## dolly10

Late last night my driver side window regulator failed (I didn't know what the problem was at the time) I took my TT to Audi Lincoln first thing and they had a look at my car straight away. The lady came back and said if it was the window regulator it would cost £283!!!!! Whilst waiting for the prognosis I googled "window regulator" and came across this forum which said it was a design fault. When the lady came and confirmed it was the window regulator I questioned the fact that Audi should be paying for the repair and mentioned the fact there are many forums on this subject as it's a design fault. The lady came back a few minutes later and said they would do it for £79 labour included (70% off). Fantastic that the lady at Audi got the cost down but on reflection as this is a design fault we shouldn't be paying, end of. Especially in the current climate, another recession looming etc. I was looking for the Audi head office email address to tell them of my concerns and objection to having to pay anything. Does anyone know their email address? And thank you for this forum, else I wouldn't of known about the design fault, that prompted me to ask about Audi paying.


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## UlsTTer

Dolly here is their contact info .. good luck, I have always found them extremely unhelpful and belligerent towards accepting ANY responsibility for faulty parts/design ... please post your response from them on here as this is clearly 
_*yet ANOTHER *_fault with the Audi TT :

https://www.audi.co.uk/about-audi/contact-us.html


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## beardybaby

Add another one to the list - 2007 TT passenger window - going to call Audi Belfast today and see how I fare....


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## kimmy_89

both of mine have gone 
Passenger side about 4 months ago and driver side a few weeks ago.

Audi wont help in any way. £300 per window. So have been unable to use my windows for 4 months as its so expensive to fix!

sucks!


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## UlsTTer

Yet Audi told me they are _*NOT aware of ANY problem *_re the window regulator .. [smiley=argue.gif]

Yet another common problem to add to the Dashpod/ARB's/Coilpacks/Leather seats/fuel pump/oil pump/rear light cluster/Bose system .... to mention but a few

These cars really ARE of poor build IMO :roll:


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## beardybaby

ohh yeh i have the rear light problem too - i had been looking at S5's but now i dont think i will. I was contacted quickly by Audi customer service though who said someone from Audi Belfast will phone in next 24hrs. That being said, the window is down, so i cant park it anywhere and im doing my best to stop rain getting in with a bin bag - damn pillarless windows!


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## UlsTTer

Had exactly the same ... cost me £30 to get an indie garage to manually wind the window up before the work got done at Audi !


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## beardybaby

Ok so the update is i took my TT to Audi Belfast this morning. I had already made contact with customer services UK using the link posted above. They replied to me yesterday stating they would make a contribution. My wife contacted Audi belfast also and was told over the phone that in the worse case scenario it would be £245 for the regulator to be fixed inc labour.

I am then sat down today and told that for the window regulator, Audi will contribute 50% towards the part required which will result in total cost of £356! However if I take the Audi warranty for the year and have the rear light sensor problem fixed too (£172) they would do both and the warranty for £545. Safe to say following a £300 service bill already this month to Audi I wasnt gonna shell out that much money.

I pointed out that £245 was given to us as worse case scenario and after some delay i finally got the window regulator fix for *£185* (includes the 50% off the part).

Safe to say I think I might try else where for the light fix.... :?


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## UlsTTer

£185 is a lot cheaper than the £300 I was charged BUT is STILL scandalous given that this is clearly a design fault by Audi

WAY too many common problems happening with the Mk2's ... following the Mk1 debacle of Dashpods/ARB's/Coilpacks etc ... I expected better


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## beardybaby

Another twist! The good lady wife went to pick the car up and managed to negotiate it down to £65! not sure how she did it (or that i want to know!) She is a savvy business woman though so good skills by her - put me to shame. Makes me wonder why they cant just give best price at the start. Nonetheless im much happier now. i know who can sort out the charges in furure


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## easty

this has just happened to my car literally about an hour ago. drivers side, went to press the button (and before anybody thinks the car was frozen it wasnt as it was in a warm garage) and i heard a slight bang inside the door. The window remains up but the motor just sounds like its chewing itself to bits.

i had a mk1 for 6 months with enough problems bore you all to death, im hoping this short experience of owning a mk2 (since oct last year) isnt going to end up the same.

The fact ive just paid for roadtax (mines a manual), need to pay for a haldex service next week, currently in a despute with audi about a steering rack_ (another shit part), _and now i need a window motor _(another shit part)_ makes me wonder if its worth it - im beginning to think not. I f******* despise Audi right now. :twisted:


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## UlsTTer

Easty - join the club, I know exactly where you are coming from as I too have experienced all those problems you list and MANY more. Audi's refusal to face up to these problems is what really bugs me, take the dashpods for instance, they must have raked in hundreds of thousands of pounds from Mk1 owners (myself included - I had TWO) who had the problem BEFORE being embarrassed by the Watchdog Programme into doing a recall ... I can never see me buying an Audi again after 11 years of TT ownership :?

Re the window regulator 'sounding like its chewing up' .. that is the cable that will have frayed and the motor cannot cope.They will replace the WHOLE mechanism which in itself is about £100, ask them to do it for free or else you are looking at a bill inclusive of labour exceeding £300 to remedy as you say (*a shit part*) ... it's disgusting.

I dread the steering rack problem that looks like it is becoming *ANOTHER* malaise with these cars

You could always get beardybabys wife to negotiate on your behalf  (read his post)

Good Luck


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## Jamo8

Another one gone [smiley=bigcry.gif] drivers door, now parked up in the garage window 2/3 shut, out of used warranty. Can't beleive it first my steering rack then CD player now this, love the car hate the quality of parts they put in it :evil: Going to give the dealer a ring so they can " quote " me for it, then have to find an Indy to do it no doubt. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Jamo8

Just rang the dealer in Swansea booked in Monday to check it out, if it is the regulator looking at a bill of around £250 [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## easty

Jamo8 said:


> Just rang the dealer in Swansea booked in Monday to check it out, if it is the regulator looking at a bill of around £250 [smiley=bigcry.gif]


dont bother going to a main stealer, i got mine done at a good Audi/VW indi and it was only £162 fitted inc vat.


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## UlsTTer

easty said:


> Jamo8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just rang the dealer in Swansea booked in Monday to check it out, if it is the regulator looking at a bill of around £250 [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> dont bother going to a main stealer, i got mine done at a good Audi/VW indi and it was only £162 fitted inc vat.
Click to expand...

That is a good price considering the part itself is about £100 .. and can only be bought from Audi as far as I know!


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## Jamo8

UlsTTer said:


> easty said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jamo8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just rang the dealer in Swansea booked in Monday to check it out, if it is the regulator looking at a bill of around £250 [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> dont bother going to a main stealer, i got mine done at a good Audi/VW indi and it was only £162 fitted inc vat.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a good price considering the part itself is about £100 .. and can only be bought from Audi as far as I know!
Click to expand...

Dropped off this morning confirmed regulator, price £210 all in, desperate for the car back asap so going to pay it. Reading previous posts doesn't sound too bad a price :?


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## ScoobyTT

Quattrapig's got another one to add to the tally. 
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=264820

Progress through technology? Pah. Every other car manufacturer has had window regulators working reliably for years now.


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## markuk

UlsTTer said:


> easty said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jamo8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just rang the dealer in Swansea booked in Monday to check it out, if it is the regulator looking at a bill of around £250 [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> dont bother going to a main stealer, i got mine done at a good Audi/VW indi and it was only £162 fitted inc vat.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a good price considering the part itself is about £100 .. and can only be bought from Audi as far as I know!
Click to expand...

I had my previous TT done by a Audi/VW indi in Leicester who charged 1.25 hours labour plus parts which was a similar price about £165 - I really don't know why folks bother with the main stealer who wanted to do both of my windows for about £700 !


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## UlsTTer

I tried to get an indie company to do mine but they said the window part could only be obtained from Audi

Also when your window is stuck wide OPEN in the pissing rain .. a lot of people don't have much choice :x


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## markuk

UlsTTer said:


> I tried to get an indie company to do mine but they said the window part could only be obtained from Audi
> 
> Also when your window is stuck wide OPEN in the pissing rain .. a lot of people don't have much choice :x


Yeah its a bummer when you are at the mercy of the main dealer ......  just lucky in Leicester that there is a great indy just around the corner from the main dealer


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## Jamo8

markuk said:


> - I really don't know why folks bother with the main stealer who wanted to do both of my windows for about £700 !


It ended up costing me £210 I used the main dealer because they could do it the following day and didn' t have much choice as my window was 3/4 down on my Roadster :?


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## quattrapig

Hi.
As I have said in another posting Audi need to improve the quality of this unit sometimes it's the little things that put potential buyers off. My dashboard failing has put a dent in the family budget (seems the failure rate is speeding up on the mk2)


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## Doff

Both my window regulators broke a while ago, audi fixed it in a whiff with no argument at all, so no biggie.


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## vailance

just had mine stuck on the driver side today.. 
seems like the cable dropped off the rail after several attempt to force them wind up. pulled the window all the way up and the regulator motor just keep spinning without doing anything with the cable off the rail(i think... from what i can hear those clunking sound)

From what i found on ETKA, 8JO 837 462 D is the driver side (Right) window regulator costs $113.53. any idea how can i replace them myself?


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## ScoobyTT

Have a look at the door panel removal thread for getting the panel off - but note also the caveats towards the end. Changing the regulator is a two-person job as someone has to hold the window if I remember rightly.


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## 80sman

Another MK 2 TT roadster owner with a failed drivers side window.

Just drove up to the dartford crossing, threw the money in and the window wound half way up and then back down again. Managed to coax it back up on the halfway setting on the switch, it wont fully close and I'm loath to play with it anymore, it's about .25" from fully up, winding it down it seems to jam halfway down.

Is this the regulator again??

Also just started getting an intermittent dash warning of a failed right hand indicator bulb.

This was the first Audi I've bought, I've had it about 2 years now, after having honda's. It's safe to say I will never buy an audi again. I did almost 100k in the honda's without a single fault. Audi build quality is just plain rubbish.


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## UlsTTer

80sman said:


> Another MK 2 TT roadster owner with a failed drivers side window.
> 
> Just drove up to the dartford crossing, threw the money in and the window wound half way up and then back down again. Managed to coax it back up on the halfway setting on the switch, it wont fully close and I'm loath to play with it anymore, it's about .25" from fully up, winding it down it seems to jam halfway down.
> 
> Is this the regulator again?? *YES*
> Also just started getting an intermittent dash warning of a failed right hand indicator bulb.
> 
> This was the first Audi I've bought, I've had it about 2 years now, after having honda's. It's safe to say I will never buy an audi again. I did almost 100k in the honda's without a single fault.* Audi build quality is just plain rubbish*.


Totally agree ... this is a massive problem with the TT and yet Audi refuse to accept this !!


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## denTTed

Changing the regulator is pretty easy tbh, remove door card loosen the grips that hold the glass then pull out the glass. Iirc then unbolt the regulator and remove, put new one in and re-bolt, slide glass back and secure, replace door card. I did mine it took probably no more than 30/45 mins. Deffo not a 2 man job unless you need somebody to blame if it goes wrong.

John


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## UlsTTer

denTTed said:


> _*Changing the regulator is pretty easy tbh,*_ remove door card loosen the grips that hold the glass then pull out the glass. Iirc then unbolt the regulator and remove, put new one in and re-bolt, slide glass back and secure, replace door card. I did mine it took probably no more than 30/45 mins. Deffo not a 2 man job unless you need somebody to blame if it goes wrong.
> 
> John


*IMO it is NOT easy in the slightest*... you have to be fairly 'car minded' just to get the door panel off .. it took me ages

As for the regulator and cable it looked very complicated .. Audi must be charging 2 hours labour to do
the job so you did well to do it in 30 or so minutes !!


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## ScoobyTT

denTTed said:


> Deffo not a 2 man job unless you need somebody to blame if it goes wrong.


According to Audi, "Move door window upwards into door seal. This centres the window in the door opening. Use suction lifter -V.A.G 1344- to press door window upwards into seal at roof and forwards into A-pillar seal and hold in this position. Second mechanic must tighten bolts -2- and -6- to specified torque from inside the vehicle. "

Unless you're an octopus with a mechanical bent, doing both at the same time would be tricky.


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## Joe Ekins

Passenger side regulator fixed under warranty today, 3 days of inconvienience though

Why the feck don't Audi upgrade the part!!


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## denTTed

Well I must be talking shit then, I assume you've done one yourself.

Additionally I'm a bit bemused as to your motivation here, I found it easy to do really not a major job at all if anything maybe you should question Audi's charging over this?


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## 80sman

denTTed said:


> Well I must be talking shit then, I assume you've done one yourself.
> 
> Additionally I'm a bit bemused as to your motivation here, I found it easy to do really not a major job at all if anything maybe you should question Audi's charging over this?


Nice.... :x

Forum's really annoy me sometimes, why would you talk to someone like that? What's the point?

@UlsTTer, thanks for the confirmation, had it replaced at an Ind for £80 labour, selling the TT this summer. These faults on an expensive car of this age is not acceptable to me.


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## UlsTTer

80sman said:


> denTTed said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I must be talking shit then, I assume you've done one yourself.
> 
> Additionally I'm a bit bemused as to your motivation here, I found it easy to do really not a major job at all if anything maybe you should question Audi's charging over this?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice.... :x
> 
> Forum's really annoy me sometimes, why would you talk to someone like that? What's the point?
> 
> @UlsTTer, thanks for the confirmation, had it replaced at an Ind for £80 labour, selling the TT this summer. These faults on an *expensive car of this age is not acceptable* to me.
Click to expand...

Totally agree 80sman ... denTTed we all *HAVE* been questioning audi's charges I'm not sure what you mean :?


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## scooTTer13

hi all just had my passenger window came to a grinding halt, still under warranty but only last week the high pressure fuel sensor went, of the road for a week not a happy bunny


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## Templar

I wonder if there was some preventive maintenance that could be done ?? Like spraying the cable with dry film lubricant ?? 
Do you think the failure is down to the cable shaffing or just weak at the end fixings ?


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## dkor

I had the same problem just before Christmas. I took the car to an audi specialist, i paid £280 pounds to replace the regulator but the problem was never fixed properly. After taking the car back to the garage and three unsuccessful attempts, i am still not entirely happy with the result. it looks like the window doesn't drop the same distance down, as the window on the left side. As a result the window catches the rubber seal on the frame when you open the door. The window is well aligned but it doesn't drop down enough to clear the rubber seal. Any ideas?


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## ScoobyTT

Have you tried the window reset procedure?


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## scooTTer13

After taking the door pad off when this happened i noticed about 6-8mm of play on where the window could be sat to on the runners one silver block with white plastic guides that position the window could be that set too low???????


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## easty

dkor said:


> I had the same problem just before Christmas. I took the car to an audi specialist, i paid £280 pounds to replace the regulator but the problem was never fixed properly. After taking the car back to the garage and three unsuccessful attempts, i am still not entirely happy with the result. it looks like the window doesn't drop the same distance down, as the window on the left side. As a result the window catches the rubber seal on the frame when you open the door. The window is well aligned but it doesn't drop down enough to clear the rubber seal. Any ideas?


just sounds like they have done a shi* job!. i paid £160 at an Audi specialist and had no issues at all. They even said if you hear any extra wind noise due to the alignement of the window, just bring it back and we will adjust it.


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## Templar

Does anyone know if this issue effects all model years of both coupe and roadster ?


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## easty

Templar said:


> Does anyone know if this issue effects all model years of both coupe and roadster ?


im guessing as this post is 5 pages 'in' the answer is probably yes? Although they might have changed the part on the newer models and im sure somebody will be along shortly to confirm.


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## Templar

easty said:


> Templar said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this issue effects all model years of both coupe and roadster ?
> 
> 
> 
> im guessing as this post is 5 pages 'in' the answer is probably yes? Although they might have changed the part on the newer models and im sure somebody will be along shortly to confirm.
Click to expand...

I'm sumising here but i would imagine the design is ok and would perfom well for many years. The problem must be in the manufacture of the unit and/or materials or even a bad batch, possibly made in China down to a very low price and made in the 1000's at a time.
Surely with all the said problems and dealer Inconsistencies, there would of either been a slight design change or material upgrade, even an aftermarket replacement by a specialist. 
This has made me think though. Is this issue really as common as we thought ??


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## colinm

My passenger side regulator had to be replaced last week, 6 years old, luckily under used audi warranty


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## DiscoStu

Just replaced my drivers side, cost £103 inc vat and fitting was quite easy. The most difficult part was getting the door panel off.Nottingham Audi wanted £277, sod that.All this cost for what looked like a snapped bicycle brake cable.After years of problems with other Audi's I hope this isn't the start of things to come.I really wish BMW made the TT as I've NEVER had problems with their build quality or parts.


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## RobHardy

My window has started making a noise, when going down. It is ok going up, has anyone else experienced this? E.g. its working, just noisy all of a sudden?


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## d1will

My 56 plate 2.0 TFSI now has a broken drivers side!
Can't believe how wide spread this problem is!
Guess I better phone around for a price 
Maybe after I've tried to have a fiddle myself! What could go wrong? :lol:


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## UlsTTer

d1will said:


> My 56 plate 2.0 TFSI now has a broken drivers side!
> *Can't believe how wide spread this problem is!*Guess I better phone around for a price
> Maybe after I've tried to have a fiddle myself! What could go wrong? :lol:


It might be easier other members telling us who *HASN'T* had this problem yet

There are several other threads on the forum concerning it AND I would assume the 8 or so
pages of "How to remove a door panel" on here are due in some part to the window regulator?

It would appear it could possibly be more widespread than the infamous Dashpod problem on the Mk1

And Audi say they are NOT aware of any problems around this issue :roll: :roll: :twisted:


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## d1will

Well I spent a while fiddling last night and have some good news and some bad-

There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with my regulator so that's good but the cable that runs around all the pulleys has snapped and I think is a bit beyond me to fix myself!

It looks like the cable freyed slightly and that led to it getting caught and eventually snapping.
Still pretty shoddy that it would do that - the route it takes and the components it runs through it's not surprising!

Anyone know a decent audi indy that could do it for me for a reasonable price? 
Don't think I can do it as it looks a complicated route and I don't have any tools to crimp the 'end stops' on either.

Cheers guys


----------



## UlsTTer

d1will ... that sounds pretty much the norm, it is more the crappy cable that frays than the regulator switch, I CAN'T believe how complicated the path of the cable just to open a window .. Audi need to [smiley=argue.gif] RETHINK this crap design !! AFAIK you have to buy the COMPLETE package (cable included)


----------



## d1will

I spoke to one of the master techs that alright at the Reading stealers and you do indeed have to buy the whole unit - at £165!!!! then 1.1 hours labour means a far from reasonable £291!
Service manager said he would knock it down to £241 but it still takes the p**s!
Need to try and find a good indy in Reading. Anybody know one?

How difficult would it be for me to refit the new part - anybody know??

Cheers


----------



## UlsTTer

*£165 ??* .. Watford charged £99 for the whole part (not inc VAT) but even that would only be £120ish and NOT £165 :x

It would mean fitting the WHOLE unit - if you can get the door panel off and back on again you stand a chance, personally I
would try get an indie garage to do the fit OR ask Audi to contribute to the cost as this is a massive problem on the TT's

Ps: the *clips* holding the door panel generally break so you may have to buy a few of those!


----------



## d1will

Apparently £165 is what it costs! Although I've just had a quote from an indy who quotes parts at £120 but £130 for labour so it still comes out more than the stealers!
I've spoken to Audi UK to lodge a complaint/query and he says he will get back to me within 48 Hours so we shall see.

I might be tempted to have a go myself if there is a "how-to" guide anybody has that I could follow?
Also anyone know the best place to get the part if I do it myself?

Thanks in advance guys


----------



## brittan

Some time ago I added this ebay seller to my saved list for the replacement wire, end fittings and crimping tool.

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/e-crofting&ss ... 1543.l2533

I haven't had to buy from them but if I get a window problem and Audi won't play ball I'll buy just the wire/fitting crimp tool and DIY it.


----------



## d1will

Brittan you are a legend!]

the seller tried to push me to buy a full trade kit for £90 but think I could manage with a DIY kit.
Anyone know if the TT is classed as a "2 rail" or "1 Rail" window system?

got this item number 200672067765

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-DIY ... 578wt_1270

or this item number 200672066657

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-DIY ... 607wt_1270

both look a lot better than £241!!!
Cheers guys.


----------



## easty

sounds like some of you are having your pants pulled down. I paid £165 all in from an audi specialist in east yorkshire. And that was using genuine parts.


----------



## aledkthomas

Drivers side window stuck down 24 hrs after I picked up my TTS back in Sept'11 from Bristol Audi. Had to wait 3 days for my local Audi (Neyland) to see the car.
Luckily is was covered under used warrenty so had it fixed for free, was told it was a loose wire!!!
Then last week, same fault again, When i dropped it into Audi for repair (still under warranty) I reminded them of the fault the first time and that I wanted it fixed properly this time. 
After it was repaired I was told it was the regulator that had gone this time and it has been changed.
Lost complete confidence with Audi now, had the distinct impression that I was just being told what I wanted to hear from the service department.
Had AUDI call me up for a servey on my reapir from AUDI Neyland, when i explained the problem of the window and the fault reoccuring there was no apology or any kind of attempt to ease my concerns.
Think i'm going to have to change the car before the 12 months warranty expires!
Shame!


----------



## Luegolover

So I have the grinding noise and no window action having just owned the car for a month, 08 plate & private purchase so it's down to me. I have emailed Audi to see what they say but am not holding my breath.

I have the confidence to have a go at removing the door card and replacing the whole thing myself but am tempted to go for the cable repair kit outlined above. I also would like to know if it is the two or one wire kit (giving Audi a few days to respond before I get the tools out, silly I know but I always live in hope). Also, I'd like to know if anybody has done this yet?


----------



## UlsTTer

Luegolover said:


> So I have the grinding noise and no window action having just owned the car for a month, 08 plate & private purchase so it's down to me. I have emailed Audi to see what they say but am not holding my breath.
> 
> I have the confidence to have a go at removing the door card and replacing the whole thing myself but am tempted to go for the cable repair kit outlined above. I also would like to know if it is the two or one wire kit (giving Audi a few days to respond before I get the tools out, silly I know but I always live in hope). Also, I'd like to know if anybody has done this yet?


Christ NOT another one :twisted: ... I doubt you will get any joy from Audi .. head / sand etc

denTTed is the man to ask .. he did the whole job in about 30 minutes he said


----------



## Luegolover

A friend of mine is a panel beater who runs a small garage in North London and he said to me that he is forever replacing the cables on Volkswagens which he gets from independant suppliers for Europeans cars. This made me think that it is maybe a whole VAG issue rather than a TT issue? These suppliers didn't do the cables for the TT, not sure why.

So I had a very long chat with the man who owns the cable replacement company on eBay and have decided to take the plunge. I was worried that I haven't striped the door down yet and so don't know what I am looking at and therefore our conversation was general. He did however make some interesting points. The cables supplied by Audi are steel based and so the other door will fail at some point (I am driving to Rome this summer, do I want it to fail half way through France, err, no). Once replaced with stainless cables they will not fail again, ever, so if I plan to keep the car it makes sense to do them both rather than replace the whole unit with a steel based Audi unit. The cable repair works out at £20 per door. If I do the working door first then I have the correct lengths for the replacement cables for the broken door which will make life easier. He then offered to loan me the tool, extra cable and connectors. I agreed to pay in advance and he will refund me the cost of the tool and any unused bits that I return as long as I get it done within a couple of weeks.

All in all I took everything he said onboard and weighed it up against the only negative thought I have which is do I have the ability to do it and decided to give it a go. So the tool is on its way and I am nervous but committed to doing it.

I'll report back when done.


----------



## d1will

well i ordered the ebay kit but looks like i've got the wrong one after stripping the door down again! 
I thought the tt was a 2 railed system judging by what I could see but guess not.
Luegolover you don't want the one wire kit but as far as I can see a continuous cable won't work because you need to crimp a couple of stops mid wire! so I'm gonna get hold of the ebay guy for advice because the DIY kit I bought won't work, even if I had got the correct one!

So I'll see if I can borrow the kit from him like you did in order to crimp the correct parts but we shall see.
Now I've gotta go putt it all back together! Again!!!!!


----------



## Luegolover

I have one length of wire that I can cut to length and then crimp the stops mid wire where needed. Still hopeful athough I haven't taken the door apart yet. Out of interest, how long does it take to strip the door down?


----------



## Luegolover

Success.

I took both regulators out of the doors, the good one and the broken one. The problem is easy to see, VAG use steel cables that rust, why do they do that? The good door had some frayed strands and so would fail at some point. I took loads of photos of the complete good side then set about cleaning up the components from the broken side and making a new cable. They are single cables with two midsection stops. The main reason for doing both was that it enabled me to take measurements from the good side; this made the process much easier. The kit had everything I needed and it was easy to do. I kid you not; it was very easy to make the cables. I wasn't rushing and it took a day to strip both doors, make the cables then refit them. I would recommend buying the door trim clips before hand as only one Audi dealer in London had them in stock and they haven't worked properly when used for the second time. At 45p each (18 needed) it is hardly worth not doing it as I now have to strip the door down again next week to replace them.

With hindsight I can say that the worst part of doing the job was the worrying about it. Cutting the good cable to get the bits off it seemed very daring.

Now, for £40 and the clips which I have yet to pay for, I have two window winders that work perfectly and wont rust.

I would describe myself as being reasonably good with a set of spanners but I am definitely not professional, I teach maths for a living. I have previously built a kit car though and so am pretty confident of my mechanic skills but I stress that they are nothing special. I would recommend having a go yourself rather than paying Audi loads of money for a solution that will fail again.


----------



## brittan

Glad you got it sorted on the guinea pig run.  
You've definitely confirmed the route I'll take should the problem occur on my car.

It might be useful if you could post some of the pictures you took.
I presume that for £40 you did as posted before and 'hired' the crimping tool; a sensible move for something you'll only need the once.
The tip on door card clips is useful too, sad how these things become 'once only' use; easy to clip on but a pig's ear to remove.


----------



## Templar

Hi Lie,
Did you by any chance take a picture of the crimping tool ? 
This could be handy helping members sourcing a similar tool, whether tho buy or hire. Pretty sure there would be a pattern tool available at a competitive price.
Good work finding a solution..top man ;-)


----------



## Luegolover

Hello,

I did hire the crimping tool and I didn't take any pictures of it. However at the prices e-crofting charges it seems daft to buy one. I hope I have attached a picture of the regulator with the tags that I have attached to show what way the bits connect. Getting it out was more challenging than making the cables.


----------



## Lyons

I fear mine might be on the way out, it goes down OK but has started groaning on the way up. I daren't touch it at all now!

I also noticed yesterday that the inside of the glass was smeared with some sort of liquid. Are there any hydraulic parts in the motor/mechanism that could have caused this?


----------



## Templar

Luegolover said:


> Hello,
> 
> I did hire the crimping tool and I didn't take any pictures of it. However at the prices e-crofting charges it seems daft to buy one. I hope I have attached a picture of the regulator with the tags that I have attached to show what way the bits connect. Getting it out was more challenging than making the cables.


Well done fella you've broke the ice to a PITA problem, great result.
Hopefully now someone who's got the time and patience to put together a step by step procedure ect and it get made a sticky, cause I don't think we'll get much joy from Audi.


----------



## davek9

Another one gone here tonight, drivers side. 2006 TFSI, 37k miles. :?

Bank holiday coming, window half down, forecast to rain, brilliant :twisted:

Will get onto Audi and dealer tomorrow but i'm not hopeful. So disapointed like everyone else really, Previous car was a Boxster with 127k on it and virtually every "non wearing" part worked as good as new. 

According to an Audi dealer on EBay part is £126 or so then whatever it costs to fit. Pretty much the same as all the other posts on this thread.

If i have any good or different news will post back

thanks for "listening" [smiley=toilet.gif]


----------



## minttt

Another fail ...
Just happened to me yesterday, drivers side, 4 yrs old, frequent window-use (in and out of work, etc..)
I'm ordering a cable kit to DIY repair.

Thanks to the many posts on the forum here, my understanding is that it's a cable material issue - non-stainless steel that corrodes and frays .. so I guess it's a combination of time/cycles ... but the crazy thing is that if you get the expensive Audi repair, they'll just replace the whole assembly, including the original standard cable material ... so it will happen agan! That's the main reason I'm going for DIY, with stainless cable (to do both doors/windows) and foregoing the battle with Audi to part-fund a repair on just the currently-failed one.

I can't understand why Audi don't root-cause this and at least fix it for current production. On some Google research and previous VW experience, this is a common (VWAudi) and ongoing issue. Crazy! Fix it!!!!!!

Might try and do a photo-log of procedure (presuming it goes well!), hopefully next weekend.
Embarassing to have to do an awkward door-open, convoluted badge-swipe to get into work in 4-yr old TT ... it's not like it's a French car...


----------



## illingworth22

This also happened to me Yesterday. I wound down the Driver's window, heard a clunk and ended up with 1" of window. I did manage to pull up the window. 
I contacted an ex Audi dealer in Dublin and they quoted approx 300 euro to fix. I am a bit loathed to spend 300 euro on something which will need fixing again in 3 to 4 years! Give me back my BMW Coupe [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Is there anywhere offering the Non Rust Fix option?


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, Found this if you fancy DIY.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format ... 4887167175

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format ... 4887211046

Hoggy.


----------



## minttt

minttt said:


> Another fail ...
> Just happened to me yesterday, drivers side, 4 yrs old, frequent window-use (in and out of work, etc..)
> I'm ordering a cable kit to DIY repair.
> 
> Thanks to the many posts on the forum here, my understanding is that it's a cable material issue - non-stainless steel that corrodes and frays .. so I guess it's a combination of time/cycles ... but the crazy thing is that if you get the expensive Audi repair, they'll just replace the whole assembly, including the original standard cable material ... so it will happen agan! That's the main reason I'm going for DIY, with stainless cable (to do both doors/windows) and foregoing the battle with Audi to part-fund a repair on just the currently-failed one.
> 
> I can't understand why Audi don't root-cause this and at least fix it for current production. On some Google research and previous VW experience, this is a common (VWAudi) and ongoing issue. Crazy! Fix it!!!!!!
> 
> Might try and do a photo-log of procedure (presuming it goes well!), hopefully next weekend.
> Embarassing to have to do an awkward door-open, convoluted badge-swipe to get into work in 4-yr old TT ... it's not like it's a French car...


Here's a good website on this, with some good photos showing damaged/failing cables..
(found while doing homework on upcoming open-heart surgery on my doors 8) )
http://skiddmark.com/2012/02/running-re ... -2-0-tfsi/


----------



## illingworth22

minttt said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another fail ...
> Just happened to me yesterday, drivers side, 4 yrs old, frequent window-use (in and out of work, etc..)
> I'm ordering a cable kit to DIY repair.
> 
> Thanks to the many posts on the forum here, my understanding is that it's a cable material issue - non-stainless steel that corrodes and frays .. so I guess it's a combination of time/cycles ... but the crazy thing is that if you get the expensive Audi repair, they'll just replace the whole assembly, including the original standard cable material ... so it will happen agan! That's the main reason I'm going for DIY, with stainless cable (to do both doors/windows) and foregoing the battle with Audi to part-fund a repair on just the currently-failed one.
> 
> I can't understand why Audi don't root-cause this and at least fix it for current production. On some Google research and previous VW experience, this is a common (VWAudi) and ongoing issue. Crazy! Fix it!!!!!!
> 
> Might try and do a photo-log of procedure (presuming it goes well!), hopefully next weekend.
> Embarassing to have to do an awkward door-open, convoluted badge-swipe to get into work in 4-yr old TT ... it's not like it's a French car...
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a good website on this, with some good photos showing damaged/failing cables..
> (found while doing homework on upcoming open-heart surgery on my doors 8) )
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/02/running-re ... -2-0-tfsi/
Click to expand...

I just had a look at the above and I sent them a comment/reply on there post. Here is a copy of the e-mail I received back.

Hi Richard, sorry to hear about your TT window being afflicted with the dreaded 'knackered cable' virus. Are confident enough to tackle the job yourself? It is relatively easy, and will take a few hours if it's your first time.

If enough people start complaining about the problem, I'll be happy to call Audi out publicly for a response. It's the best current example in my experience of a part not being fit for purpose.

Cheers,

Steve


----------



## minttt

illingworth22 said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another fail ...
> Just happened to me yesterday, drivers side, 4 yrs old, frequent window-use (in and out of work, etc..)
> I'm ordering a cable kit to DIY repair.
> 
> Thanks to the many posts on the forum here, my understanding is that it's a cable material issue - non-stainless steel that corrodes and frays .. so I guess it's a combination of time/cycles ... but the crazy thing is that if you get the expensive Audi repair, they'll just replace the whole assembly, including the original standard cable material ... so it will happen agan! That's the main reason I'm going for DIY, with stainless cable (to do both doors/windows) and foregoing the battle with Audi to part-fund a repair on just the currently-failed one.
> 
> I can't understand why Audi don't root-cause this and at least fix it for current production. On some Google research and previous VW experience, this is a common (VWAudi) and ongoing issue. Crazy! Fix it!!!!!!
> 
> Might try and do a photo-log of procedure (presuming it goes well!), hopefully next weekend.
> Embarassing to have to do an awkward door-open, convoluted badge-swipe to get into work in 4-yr old TT ... it's not like it's a French car...
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a good website on this, with some good photos showing damaged/failing cables..
> (found while doing homework on upcoming open-heart surgery on my doors 8) )
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/02/running-re ... -2-0-tfsi/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just had a look at the above and I sent them a comment/reply on there post. Here is a copy of the e-mail I received back.
> 
> Hi Richard, sorry to hear about your TT window being afflicted with the dreaded 'knackered cable' virus. Are confident enough to tackle the job yourself? It is relatively easy, and will take a few hours if it's your first time.
> 
> If enough people start complaining about the problem, I'll be happy to call Audi out publicly for a response. It's the best current example in my experience of a part not being fit for purpose.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Steve
Click to expand...

Yup, it seems like it's becoming an epidemic now that Mk2/8J is hitting mid-life!
Can't understand how Audi made a concious decision to 'live with this' rather than recall (or at least fix with upgraded parts, ie stainless cable, for the repair regulator units).. don't think it'll work out for them in long term.
Believe they've accepted (still accepting) lightly-galvanised steel cables instead of full-stainless. A saving for Audi that must amount to mere pennies/cent .. but obviously a major cost for us...

I see you're dealing with Audi North for repair .. I'd push them for a 6-yr warranty on replaced Window-Reg cable and see what they say ... they should be happy to stand over such a specific fail-mode!! (If it's not common, then what are the odds of it happening again!) Who did you deal with for service previously? (me .. Foster Motors). Have ordered a bag full of door=clips from Audi North Dub for collection on Friday, in prep for cable-repairs at weekend!

Maybe Dealers should be pushed for a stainless-steel cable repair option.. that might make the point with Audi..
From instructions I've got from eBay repair kit provider, the repair (wire replacement) isn't overly complicated, but requires a good grasp of how the Window-Reg unit works, particularly in relation to wire-lengths and tensioning.. Also think it's a bit awkward to extract the Window-reg unit from in-side of door frame (that's after door trim panel is removed) .. but sounds do-able.. Will report back afterwards regardless!


----------



## minttt

Luegolover said:


> Success.
> 
> I took both regulators out of the doors, the good one and the broken one. The problem is easy to see, VAG use steel cables that rust, why do they do that? The good door had some frayed strands and so would fail at some point. I took loads of photos of the complete good side then set about cleaning up the components from the broken side and making a new cable. They are single cables with two midsection stops. The main reason for doing both was that it enabled me to take measurements from the good side; this made the process much easier. The kit had everything I needed and it was easy to do. I kid you not; it was very easy to make the cables. I wasn't rushing and it took a day to strip both doors, make the cables then refit them. I would recommend buying the door trim clips before hand as only one Audi dealer in London had them in stock and they haven't worked properly when used for the second time. At 45p each (18 needed) it is hardly worth not doing it as I now have to strip the door down again next week to replace them.
> 
> With hindsight I can say that the worst part of doing the job was the worrying about it. Cutting the good cable to get the bits off it seemed very daring.
> 
> Now, for £40 and the clips which I have yet to pay for, I have two window winders that work perfectly and wont rust.
> 
> I would describe myself as being reasonably good with a set of spanners but I am definitely not professional, I teach maths for a living. I have previously built a kit car though and so am pretty confident of my mechanic skills but I stress that they are nothing special. I would recommend having a go yourself rather than paying Audi loads of money for a solution that will fail again.


Hi Luegolover,

Your post will be a good help when going after this repair myself shortly. Any additional tips on couple things in particular:
- taking the glass window out and replacing it - presume there are some clamps on the two slider/supports - did you need to mark any positions to ensure it goes back right (or adjust when re-fitted?) Do the windows need to be at a certain height to access the clamps?

- any knack to getting the regulator assembly out and back in to the inside of the door frame?

- because it's one cable with two mid-section stops, presume you cut a cable more than long enough, put a cable-stop on the end and then fed it through the conduit and assemblies, and the mid-stops (loosely)as you fed it through, and then crimped the mid-stops in exact correct position afterwards? (as well as the end-stop of course!)

All advice appreciated!


----------



## illingworth22

> Yup, it seems like it's becoming an epidemic now that Mk2/8J is hitting mid-life!
> Can't understand how Audi made a concious decision to 'live with this' rather than recall (or at least fix with upgraded parts, ie stainless cable, for the repair regulator units).. don't think it'll work out for them in long term.
> Believe they've accepted (still accepting) lightly-galvanised steel cables instead of full-stainless. A saving for Audi that must amount to mere pennies/cent .. but obviously a major cost for us...
> 
> I see you're dealing with Audi North for repair .. I'd push them for a 6-yr warranty on replaced Window-Reg cable and see what they say ... they should be happy to stand over such a specific fail-mode!! (If it's not common, then what are the odds of it happening again!) Who did you deal with for service previously? (me .. Foster Motors). Have ordered a bag full of door=clips from Audi North Dub for collection on Friday, in prep for cable-repairs at weekend!
> 
> Maybe Dealers should be pushed for a stainless-steel cable repair option.. that might make the point with Audi..
> From instructions I've got from eBay repair kit provider, the repair (wire replacement) isn't overly complicated, but requires a good grasp of how the Window-Reg unit works, particularly in relation to wire-lengths and tensioning.. Also think it's a bit awkward to extract the Window-reg unit from in-side of door frame (that's after door trim panel is removed) .. but sounds do-able.. Will report back afterwards regardless!


I had my car serviced at Park Motors, I didn't know they were no longer a dealer (for service that is). They still had the Audi showroom until last month! Are you doing your DIY with Audi rustable Cable or SS cable? My main problem now seems to be Audi Ireland not standing over my UK TT. So I have to contact Audi UK to ask for advise or Beg & Plead with Audi North side for a contribution!


----------



## minttt

Hi illingworth22
I'm using the DIY kit bought on eBay from e-crofting. I got the trade version with crimp tool, and material for 8 repairs (starting with the two on mine!).
Here's a link to the FAQ for the issue/repair kit.
http://www.e-crofting.com/ebay/FAQ_vP3.0_eng.pdf

As I said in earlier post, I didn't even contact Audi on this as I believe that both doors/windows need to be done anyway (I doubt they'd even consider funding/repairing the currently working side) and I want a permanent fix.
Hopefully you have some luck with Audi North Dublin .. will be interesting to hear what they say. As it's out of warranty anyway, I'd hope the UK or Irl coverage question shouldn't be a big issue, unless they decide to make it so!

Fosters are now servicing only, but still service Audi also.
Cheers


----------



## illingworth22

minttt said:


> Hi illingworth22
> I'm using the DIY kit bought on eBay from e-crofting. I got the trade version with crimp tool, and material for 8 repairs (starting with the two on mine!).
> Here's a link to the FAQ for the issue/repair kit.
> http://www.e-crofting.com/ebay/FAQ_vP3.0_eng.pdf
> 
> As I said in earlier post, I didn't even contact Audi on this as I believe that both doors/windows need to be done anyway (I doubt they'd even consider funding/repairing the currently working side) and I want a permanent fix.
> Hopefully you have some luck with Audi North Dublin .. will be interesting to hear what they say. As it's out of warranty anyway, I'd hope the UK or Irl coverage question shouldn't be a big issue, unless they decide to make it so!
> 
> Fosters are now servicing only, but still service Audi also.
> Cheers


Thanks for the Link.

Here is my situation so far.... [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=argue.gif] Audi Ireland will take no responsibility for my Car as it is a UK supplied TT. Audi UK are telling me that in order to discuss and compensation I have to get the car into a UK Dealer! I know one big Europe...... NOT. I contacted Audi International in Germany and they told me to speak to the VW Group Ireland, I asked if this was Audi Ireland and explained that I had been speaking with Audi Ireland yesterday, the Girl in Germany told me that this was NOT Audi Irelend but the BIG CHEESE VW Ireland. 
Guess what..... it was Audi Ireland!
Now here is the strange part, Audi Ireland have told me to get a Diagnostic on the Car, here in Ireland, and then hope that the Dublin Dealer will assist me with the repair bill..... Why would Audi Dealer do this???? :x

So the only good news is that my window did in fact pull up and it is not leaking!


----------



## ScoobyTT

So much for being able to take your Audi to any Audi dealer. What a bunch of slopey-shouldered gits!


----------



## illingworth22

I have had some communication with Steve at fitchmedia.com (also his e-mail address) see his post here http://skiddmark.com/2012/02/running-re ... -2-0-tfsi/

Here is the latest e-mail

Richard, if you are a member of the TT Forum or other owner's community, would you mind surveying owners opinions to see how widespread the problem has become? I have alerted Audi that I will publish an update during the next few days, so if anyone else would like to be heard, please ask them to get in touch. The more people speak up, the more likely Audi will listen.

Best

Steve


----------



## Tri-Chas

Just logged on after months not visiting and here we are window regulators.

Picking my Dec 2007 TT up tomorrow morning from main dealer after passenger window packed up with window open.

I was told in was the regulator fixed under extended warranty but with £100 excess. You don't expect this sort of problem on a quality build car.

Lucky though the weekend before I spent the weekend on French motorways and it could have gone then.


----------



## Luegolover

In response to Minttt:

I did take the glass out, it was pretty logical. When I put it back I made sure the two clamps were clean and that the glass was in the front guide. It was located by a whole in the glass which sits into one of the clamps, so with the front edge in the guide and the back clamp central in the whole it fitted easily. Definitely not something to be troubled by as the clamps are located in the correct position on the regulator by default.

The regulator came out easily once I had moved a large foam block at the bottom of the door. Again this is pretty logical and nothing to worry about in advance.

The cable is as you describe with two mid-stops. The wire was supplied in one long length so I measured the whole length and added a bit more then cut one length. I can't remember the exact lengths of the individual sections but I have forwarded them to e-crofting (not at home this weekend so I can't tell you now). I cut the wire to 30 cm longer than I needed. I then made the first end stop and fed the housings and clips etc. in then measured the wire under tension (my weight) and placed the first mid-stop on the wire. Getting the correct measurement was easy using the bench mounted clamp and a tape measure, again it was not really something to be worried about (I can say this with the benefit of hindsight of course). Then I fed the next lot of clips and cable housings in and repeated. Making the cable wasn't difficult. Fitting it back to sliders etc. to make the regulator wasn't difficult either but I would recommend taking lots of photos and following e-croftings instructions to the letter in this area.

e-crofting was very supportive on the phone before I did this. When I consider that he only made £40 from me he certainly took his time to explain it and build confidence. So I would suggest anybody with a broken regulator have a chat with him and go for it.

On a slightly different matter I keep reading the comments implying that this is a TT issue, it is not. VAG supply the cheap, rust prone cables, to the whole range of cars. Why though I have no idea.


----------



## minttt

Luegolover said:


> In response to Minttt:
> 
> I did take the glass out, it was pretty logical. When I put it back I made sure the two clamps were clean and that the glass was in the front guide. It was located by a whole in the glass which sits into one of the clamps, so with the front edge in the guide and the back clamp central in the whole it fitted easily. Definitely not something to be troubled by as the clamps are located in the correct position on the regulator by default.
> 
> The regulator came out easily once I had moved a large foam block at the bottom of the door. Again this is pretty logical and nothing to worry about in advance.
> 
> The cable is as you describe with two mid-stops. The wire was supplied in one long length so I measured the whole length and added a bit more then cut one length. I can't remember the exact lengths of the individual sections but I have forwarded them to e-crofting (not at home this weekend so I can't tell you now). I cut the wire to 30 cm longer than I needed. I then made the first end stop and fed the housings and clips etc. in then measured the wire under tension (my weight) and placed the first mid-stop on the wire. Getting the correct measurement was easy using the bench mounted clamp and a tape measure, again it was not really something to be worried about (I can say this with the benefit of hindsight of course). Then I fed the next lot of clips and cable housings in and repeated. Making the cable wasn't difficult. Fitting it back to sliders etc. to make the regulator wasn't difficult either but I would recommend taking lots of photos and following e-croftings instructions to the letter in this area.
> 
> e-crofting was very supportive on the phone before I did this. When I consider that he only made £40 from me he certainly took his time to explain it and build confidence. So I would suggest anybody with a broken regulator have a chat with him and go for it.
> 
> On a slightly different matter I keep reading the comments implying that this is a TT issue, it is not. VAG supply the cheap, rust prone cables, to the whole range of cars. Why though I have no idea.


Thanks for all the detail Luegolover, certainly builds confidence before tackling this!
Unfortunately repair kit hasn't arrived as yet, so won't be doing it this weekend.
Yes, agree - Roy from e-crofting is very helpful. Have exchanged a few e-mails with him and he's offered more assistance over the phone if required. Will report back when job is done.
Cheers again!


----------



## UlsTTer

Illingworth ... see the poll I started some weeks ago, by the postings on this thread alone there must be lots and lots more people that have had this problem but still haven't voted in the poll as yet :?


----------



## postie

A work collegue of mine just had the regulator fixed at Preston Audi through his warranty and they gave him an invoice for £169 (£60parts + labour + VAt) so I contacted Blackburn Audi which is the in the same Thompson Motor Group and asked for a price for my vehicle and they quoted £300+ so I asked why my friends warranty job was charged at £169 and they stumbled for a second or two then said as a valued costomer they would offer me the same price as a loyalty bonus.

Maybe some of you could throw this in when you contact your local dealership for a price for this job doing.


----------



## Templar

postie said:


> A work collegue of mine just had the regulator fixed at Preston Audi through his warranty and they gave him an invoice for £169 (£60parts + labour + VAt) so I contacted Blackburn Audi which is the in the same Thompson Motor Group and asked for a price for my vehicle and they quoted £300+ so I asked why my friends warranty job was charged at £169 and they stumbled for a second or two then said as a valued costomer they would offer me the same price as a loyalty bonus.
> 
> Maybe some of you could throw this in when you contact your local dealership for a price for this job doing.


Nice one...worth noting.


----------



## illingworth22

Audi Dealer have quoted 465 euros to fix my Driver's Window Regulator. Audi Ireland have refused to have anything to do with the Car for Political Reasons (Quoted by Audi Dealer). The Audi Dealer has offered to exchange the Regulator at a cost of 350 euro including VAT and have told me that the 115 euro goodwill is from them (THEM) and not Audi Ireland!

Vor Sprung Durk Technic :x


----------



## UlsTTer

Sounds like Audi Ireland give about as much [smiley=argue.gif] after sales care as Audi UK do :x


----------



## Gellets

Yep

Same thing here! Mine just went on the driver's side! Well at least it gives me something to do on the weekend! [smiley=bomb.gif]

Does anyone have a guide to actually replacing the old regulator (not just the door panel)


----------



## minttt

Luegolover said:


> In response to Minttt:
> 
> I did take the glass out, it was pretty logical. When I put it back I made sure the two clamps were clean and that the glass was in the front guide. It was located by a whole in the glass which sits into one of the clamps, so with the front edge in the guide and the back clamp central in the whole it fitted easily. Definitely not something to be troubled by as the clamps are located in the correct position on the regulator by default.
> 
> The regulator came out easily once I had moved a large foam block at the bottom of the door. Again this is pretty logical and nothing to worry about in advance.
> 
> The cable is as you describe with two mid-stops. The wire was supplied in one long length so I measured the whole length and added a bit more then cut one length. I can't remember the exact lengths of the individual sections but I have forwarded them to e-crofting (not at home this weekend so I can't tell you now). I cut the wire to 30 cm longer than I needed. I then made the first end stop and fed the housings and clips etc. in then measured the wire under tension (my weight) and placed the first mid-stop on the wire. Getting the correct measurement was easy using the bench mounted clamp and a tape measure, again it was not really something to be worried about (I can say this with the benefit of hindsight of course). Then I fed the next lot of clips and cable housings in and repeated. Making the cable wasn't difficult. Fitting it back to sliders etc. to make the regulator wasn't difficult either but I would recommend taking lots of photos and following e-croftings instructions to the letter in this area.
> 
> e-crofting was very supportive on the phone before I did this. When I consider that he only made £40 from me he certainly took his time to explain it and build confidence. So I would suggest anybody with a broken regulator have a chat with him and go for it.
> 
> On a slightly different matter I keep reading the comments implying that this is a TT issue, it is not. VAG supply the cheap, rust prone cables, to the whole range of cars. Why though I have no idea.


Some further questions for Luegolover! Repair kit arrived yesterday.
I'm hoping to have a go at the repair tomorrow (weather and work schedule permitting), and going to start by 'repairing' the passenger/LH side which hasn't failed yet (and get all the proper measurements from that). In preparation, this evening I've gone as far as I can without taking out the window (and regulator of course). Some photos below (hopefully..).
The two retaining screws on LH side/arm of regulator assembly are obvious, and one on the *top* of the RH side/arm also.
If there is a 4th on the *bottom* RH side then it must be pretty obscured.
Can you confirm how many there are and if there is a 4th, whats the best way to access it?
(there's a port in the door on bottom RH side, but mostly obscured by the rivetted on aluminium bracket which supports the inner door trim panel)

Thanks again!


----------



## minttt

Photo of part of cable of window regulator, on side that hasn't failed just yet.. (before removing from door)
Not a very healthy colour methinks ...


----------



## Luegolover

Hello Minttt,

If you remove the speaker the 4th bolt will be obvious.

I needed to move the foam block at the foot of the door to get the mechanism out.

I'd say that you could do both doors at the same time. That way you can build the new unit for the broken door whilst comparing it to the working good unit. This will ensure that the clips and cable housings are in the correct order.

Have fun.


----------



## minttt

Luegolover said:


> Hello Minttt,
> 
> If you remove the speaker the 4th bolt will be obvious.
> 
> I needed to move the foam block at the foot of the door to get the mechanism out.
> 
> I'd say that you could do both doors at the same time. That way you can build the new unit for the broken door whilst comparing it to the working good unit. This will ensure that the clips and cable housings are in the correct order.
> 
> Have fun.


Hi Luegolover,

Ahhh! Hiding behind the speaker..
Excellent - thanks very much again!

Yes, ok, doing both together makes more sense .. will take the cable length measurements as well of course .. when finished it would be interesting to compare notes with the lengths you measured.. I know e-crofting isn't a big fan of using measurements from others, but it should be consistent across all TT's.. which could help others in future.. 8)


----------



## minttt

Gellets said:


> Yep
> 
> Same thing here! Mine just went on the driver's side! Well at least it gives me something to do on the weekend! [smiley=bomb.gif]
> 
> Does anyone have a guide to actually replacing the old regulator (not just the door panel)


Hi Gellets,
I've not seen a guide for removing/replacing the window regulator (from my searches), but am going through the process at the moment (to take out and repair the regulator - replace the cable) and taking photos/writing up a doc as I go. You'll see on this thread there's a lot of great experience/detail being passed on by Luegolover, BriTTan and Co. Hoping to possibly assemble it all into a 'How To ...' at the end of it. I think there are only going to be more people looking for this, as it seems to be a time related problem, kicking in for cars around 4 years old. As Luegolover said, it's not an Audi/TT specific problem ... not even just VW/Audi Group ...but it could be made worse for us due to the up/down window seal movement every time the door is opened/closed. Unbelieveable how Audi seem to be ignoring it both for new production (I think?) and repair parts (complete window regulator assemblies)..


----------



## illingworth22

The Service Guy in the Audi Dealer and he said it was a common problem, but more so on the A5. So it looks like a frameless door problem Audi have.


----------



## illingworth22

minttt said:


> Photo of part of cable of window regulator, on side that hasn't failed just yet.. (before removing from door)
> Not a very healthy colour methinks ...


Is that a rusty cable I see? It's not very clear when you haven't stripped one down yourself!


----------



## minttt

illingworth22 said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Photo of part of cable of window regulator, on side that hasn't failed just yet.. (before removing from door)
> Not a very healthy colour methinks ...
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a rusty cable I see? It's not very clear when you haven't stripped one down yourself!
Click to expand...

That's some light corrosion on the cable on the 'good' side.
Looks worse than it was when I took the whole assembly out into daylight (the photo yesterday was taken from inside the door cavity).

Attaching a photo of the un-corroded original cable (most of the length is ok - corrosion seems to be around the bottom turn-wheels), beside a section of the replacement/repair cable. I believe it's showing lightly-galwanised steel wire versus a slightly heavier gauge stainless steel wire.

Also attaching some photos to show what I found on the other side (drivers) that failed last week.
Rusted and broken!


----------



## Gellets

Okay just changed mine over!

My cable had snapped and the remains wrapped around the gear...

In all took me about an hour and all I need was two Torx screwdrivers, two sockets and some nimble fingers.

Things to note are that the foam block is screwed in, and that you just need to wiggle the old one out and get the new one in.. The photos on here show you the main bits you need to unscrew/remove!

I'd say avoid paying audi and do it yourself.


----------



## minttt

Gellets said:


> Okay just changed mine over!
> 
> My cable had snapped and the remains wrapped around the gear...
> 
> In all took me about an hour and all I need was two Torx screwdrivers, two sockets and some nimble fingers.
> 
> Things to note are that the foam block is screwed in, and that you just need to wiggle the old one out and get the new one in.. The photos on here show you the main bits you need to unscrew/remove!
> 
> I'd say avoid paying audi and do it yourself.


Agree, if you're going the 'replace with same' route then DIY is very do-able.
Just an hour is impressive  
Would be interesting to let everyone know.. how much were you charged for new Regulator assembly?
Also, given that you've just carried out this procedure (same as me, for cable-repair job today .. bit longer than an hour!)... if you'd be interested in proof-reading a draft How-To guide for this, just PM me with your e-mail. Although be warned it's currently an 8Mb Pdf file (photo-heavy). :roll:


----------



## Gellets

Hi Minttt

It cost me £118 fom Audi but I saw it on eBay for £70.. :?

No probs proof reading for you! If you email it to [email protected], I'll be happy to proof read it for you


----------



## minttt

Hi Gellets,
Cheers for details on Win Reg pricing..
Not sure I'd be too trusting on e-Bay for this .. but you never know! (Made in Slovakia .. for the ones I took out) 
Attempting large file e-mail as we speak/email!
MintTT


----------



## minttt

Well after getting some great info here (from BriTTan and Luegolover in particular.. and Gellets for proofing..) and some experience yesterday, I have a How-To document put together covering Door pad/panel interior trim removal procedure, and accessing and removing window regulator procedure... It's a 7Mb pdf .. post or PM me an e-mail address for anyone who wants it.. Not sure how to get it added to the Knowledge Base (if it can be).

Will most likely follow up with a procedure for window regulator repair, using e-crofting cable replacement kit. Seems to be the way to go for me.
Might also include re-installation procedure (although the Haynes approach - reverse of disassembly! - works).
Does anyone have a procedure for window alignment? and re-set procedure for one-touch/safety function on electric windows?

Have done it by eye/judgement, but would be nice to have back-up! 8)


----------



## audikarlos

Hi minttt, (and all other contributors to this thread)

I have followed with interest your findings about fixes for the corroded wire in the regulator assembly. Very useful. Many thanks to all.
I would be very grateful in receiving a photo by photo fix of regulator assembly using e-crofting stainless steel wire if/when you do one. I was quoted £310 by Truro Audi to replace whole assembly... what a joke.

Thanks again


----------



## minttt

Hi Audikarlos,
Well, initial experience with cable replacement procedure hasn't been 100% positive I have to say, but, I'm 100% sure it's the right way to go, and that I know now how to approach it correctly. Have been exchanging lots of emails with e-crofting (great response and customer service!) and think I can build it into a TT specific repair procedure..
(issue for me was proper crimping of mid-stops .. now sorted and I can detail further in How-To..)

A few points.. The E-crofting procedure/kit presumes a generic (broken) cable driven window regulator scenario.
It turns out that the Mk 2 TT is a very specific case.. a Single wre system, with two end-stops, and two mid-stops.
This is bad and good. Bad because it's a bit more complicated if figuriging out from scratch every time using tensioning process (compared to other systems), good if we can arrive at a generic TT set of dimensions and simplify the process! - which I think is possible.

The 3 dimensions needed are [End-stop 1 to Mid-stop 1], [Mid-stop 1 to Mid-stop 2], [Mid-stop 2 to End-stop 2].
With these known, it's relatively straight-forward to rebuild a new (stainless) cable system, and rebuild the regulator (to last for life, not just another 3 to 4 years!). So far I have (and need cross-check) 1230mm, 1089mm, 932mm. Worked for me apart from some mid-stop crimpng issues which I've resolved with e-Crofting help. If Luegolover can comment on these dims, great!

So a photo-based window reg step-by-step guide isn't too far off.. Probably next weekend.. (London calling for Heineken Cup Final in the meantime! :mrgreen: ) It's complicated when you look at a window reg assy first (especially if broken/bits lying around!) but not too bad once you get your head around it and have some guidance/tips.

Njoy the weekend!


----------



## audikarlos

Hi minttt,

Look forward to more news. In the meantime I will take out the assembly and order the stainless steel wire and bits. Maybe I'll even be brave enough to attempt it. Though I wish Luegolover could come to my house and hold my hand doing it...

Also, the big game this weekend is obviously in Munich where Chelsea are taking on the krauts hehe. Come on Chelsea!!!

Speak soon


----------



## Luegolover

I took the following measurements:

1231mm
1091mm
940mm

Which are similar to Mintt's. I wouldn't have fancied doing the process to work out a missing measurement, it looked fiddly. However, unless both of your window regulators are broken you will not need to.


----------



## kdf

Add my name to the list.

2007 TT, nice sunny day.. one touch window down.. zzzzzz.. BANG lol

Won't go back up but managed to pull it up. Only bought it one day ago from Audi ! Thankfully 1 year warranty so it's booked in for Saturday. Had it not been under warranty I think I would try the DIY stainless option.

Nice work on putting a how-to guide together. I would imagine a lot of people would find that helpful !


----------



## Jamo8

kdf said:


> Add my name to the list.
> 
> 2007 TT, nice sunny day.. one touch window down.. zzzzzz.. BANG lol
> 
> Won't go back up but managed to pull it up. Only bought it one day ago from Audi ! Thankfully 1 year warranty so it's booked in for Saturday. Had it not been under warranty I think I would try the DIY stainless option.
> 
> Nice work on putting a how-to guide together. I would imagine a lot of people would find that helpful !


Welcome to the forum and the TT shame this had to be your first post [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Templar

Jamo8 said:


> kdf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Add my name to the list.
> 
> 2007 TT, nice sunny day.. one touch window down.. zzzzzz.. BANG lol
> 
> Won't go back up but managed to pull it up. Only bought it one day ago from Audi ! Thankfully 1 year warranty so it's booked in for Saturday. Had it not been under warranty I think I would try the DIY stainless option.
> 
> Nice work on putting a how-to guide together. I would imagine a lot of people would find that helpful !
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the forum and the TT shame this had to be your first post [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Click to expand...

+ 1 on that, welcome, there's lots to like about the TT this will just pass once the window has been sorted ;-)


----------



## nylo

Add me to the sorry list too. Feb 07 TT 2.0l and my driver's side went last night. Thank goodness for the first spell of dry weather as the window was stuck in the wide open position all night. I dropped it off for my local indie to have a look at this morning and he quoted me £100 parts and about an hour and a half's labour. I'll be avoiding opening my passenger side for the foreseeable future... :roll: :lol:


----------



## minttt

audikarlos said:


> Hi minttt,
> 
> Look forward to more news. In the meantime I will take out the assembly and order the stainless steel wire and bits. Maybe I'll even be brave enough to attempt it. Though I wish Luegolover could come to my house and hold my hand doing it...
> 
> Also, the big game this weekend is obviously in Munich where Chelsea are taking on the krauts hehe. Come on Chelsea!!!
> 
> Speak soon


HaHa! Obviously the big games were both in London and Munich.. two good results!
(As it happened, was in Munich Tuesday with work (Automatica trade fair) so passed by the scene of the crime  )
With the brill weather 8) and hoping for an early finish from work tmrw, planning to go for full repair and step-by-step guide to follow..


----------



## kdf

Thanks for the welcome 

I will update once my car has been in to the dealer.


----------



## minttt

OK, so this afternoon I completed a fully successful Window Regulator repair (cable replacement), and have a documented procedure/guide if anyone wants it.

It's a 6.6Mb pdf file (picture heavy). 
Still working on finding out how to add to the KB for general download, so in meantime if anyone wants a copy PM me.

For reference, I used the following stop-stop dimensions (following cross-check with Luegolover). Happy with the way these worked out.
940mm
1090mm
1230mm

Took about 4 hours altogether (including removing and re-fitting in door), but I was taking a lot of photos/notes, and I made one schoolboy error which set me back about half an hour - doh!! 
I'd say 3 hours should be fairly do-able.


----------



## Templar

minttt said:


> OK, so this afternoon I completed a fully successful Window Regulator repair (cable replacement), and have a documented procedure/guide if anyone wants it.
> 
> It's a 6.6Mb pdf file (picture heavy).
> Still working on finding out how to add to the KB for general download, so in meantime if anyone wants a copy PM me.
> 
> For reference, I used the following stop-stop dimensions (following cross-check with Luegolover). Happy with the way these worked out.
> 940mm
> 1090mm
> 1230mm
> 
> Took about 4 hours altogether (including removing and re-fitting in door), but I was taking a lot of photos/notes, and I made one schoolboy error which set me back about half an hour - doh!!
> I'd say 3 hours should be fairly do-able.


Superb, this will help a lot of members out.
When your write up is complete maybe the forum Mods can make it a sticky ?


----------



## bensmithhull

Hi guys,

Window went down today in the heat and there was a crunch and a groan and it wouldn't come back up again! I have managed to get it back up to within an inch of closing after opening/closing the drivers door 100's of times, pressing the window switch and pulling the glass up at the same time!

What do you guys think is the problem, it sounds like the same problem as what you're talking about above? The motor seems to be working as it's making the clicking sound, but it sounds like it thinks it's in it's closed position when it's not because of the clicking sound. I can't afford £300 to take it to an Audi dealership. I live in West London, is there someone mobile in the area that come out and fix it at my home address? Is it an easy job to do yourself? I already had the doorcard off this afternoon to see if I could fix it myself.

This is my first post on here so please be kind


----------



## bensmithhull

Hey Mint, thanks for your reply via PM. As I am new, I can't PM yet so can you send me your email in a PM and I'll then email you my address. The guide would be a great help as I'll try the e-crofting fix myself I think.


----------



## UlsTTer

Yet another W/R bites the dust .. WAKE UP Audi :x

Ben I would be 99.9% certain the cable will be frayed and chewed up, so you might get away with replacing that only IF, as you say the motor sounds ok .. Audi would just replace the WHOLE caboodle AND charge handsomely for the job !!

If you have managed to get the door panel off that is a good start, check the posts on this thread on how to DIY

Good Luck.


----------



## audikarlos

Excellent news minntt, well done,

Apparently I am also not active enough on the forum to use the pm function so if you could pm me with your email address so I in turn can send you mine. Sorry to be a pain. I would be VERY grateful!!


----------



## illingworth22

Have a read here

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

This is a reply from Steve at Fitch Media regarding my problem having a UK Car here in the Republic of Ireland.

Also have a look at the Window Regulator Poll on this site here viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433&p=2306055#p2306055 and cast your vote!

As the article on the Fitch site suggests, contact your local Audi Dealer! The more they know the more they may assist! :wink:


----------



## minttt

illingworth22 said:


> Have a read here
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/
> 
> This is a reply from Steve at Fitch Media regarding my problem having a UK Car here in the Republic of Ireland.
> 
> Also have a look at the Window Regulator Poll on this site here viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433&p=2306055#p2306055 and cast your vote!
> 
> As the article on the Fitch site suggests, contact your local Audi Dealer! The more they know the more they may assist! :wink:


Good Result!
Although I have it sorted, I've gone ahead and reported the Window Reg failure to Audi Customer Care, Ireland (to have it on record), and have a written acknowlegement back.
Interesting to note from the linked article that there have been a number of revisions to the Window Reg unit. I wonder if they've actually addressed the problem and improved the spec of the cable? If so, it would be very interesting to know when this took effect, both for new production and for spares.


----------



## minttt

Just to note as well, I've been working with Toshiba to post the 'How To' details relating to this thread in the Knowledge Base.
3 articles added, Window Reg Repair, Part 1 Door Pad Removal, Part 2 Window Reg Removal & Replacement.
Window Reg Repair is currently missing a fair bit of detail on the steps, but has all the photos. Hoping this will be fixed soon, but in the meantime, anyone who wants a pdf copy by e-mail just let me know.. 8) 
and here's the text detail for all steps:

1) Carry out inventory check of broken Window Regulator components. Ensure familiarity with components and assembly order. Label the ends of each rail and outer cable.

2) Press/Punch-out mid-stops from Window carriers (carefully), and remove complete cable assembly from the drive unit and frame/arms. For unbroken sections of cable, the cable length can be measured at this point, and cross-checked with dimensions provided here.

3) Cut length of replacement cable (recommend 3350mm) and crimp a 6mm End-stop (1) on one end.

4) Mark the cable at 940mm from the inner edge of End-stop 1.

5) Feed the components (white plastic housing, ratchet, spring, cable outer, plastic frame-to-arm cable guide) onto the cable in the correct order.

6) Feed on the Mid-stop fitting and sleeve. Crimp the Mid-stop (1) fitting at the 940mm mark and slide over the Mid-stop sleeve.

7) Mark the cable at 1090mm from the inner edge of Mid-stop 1.

8) Feed on the components (first plastic frame-to-arm cable guide, cable outer, second plastic frame-to-arm cable guide) in the correct order.

9) Feed on the Mid-stop fitting and sleeve. Crimp the Mid-stop fitting (2) at the 1090mm mark and slide over the Mid-stop sleeve.

10) Mark the cable at 1230mm from the inner edge of Mid-stop 2.

11) Feed on the components (plastic frame-to-arm cable guide, cable outer, cylindrical plastic fitting and spring) in the correct order.

12) Feed on the 6mm End-stop fitting. Crimp the End-stop fitting (2) at the 1230mm mark. Cut off remaining/excess cable.

13) The rebuilt cable is now ready for re-fitting in the Window regulator assembly.

14) Start by winding the cable on to the Window regulator drive spool. It's important not to loop the wire over the spool because this induces twist.
Note that in the photos shown here, with the window carrier in the fully-up position - at the top of the frame, one cable winds approx. one revolution only, while the other winds approx. 4 revolutions. This is not critical however. 
It's often more convenient for assembly to have the sliders approx. midway along the tracks. 
It's also preferable and easier if the last stage of assembly (using the cam on the pulley to load the wire) is carried out well away from the slider.

15) Apply some silicone grease to the spool/cable. Place the spool into the housing while keeping some tension on the cable. It's important not to lose tension on either cable until assembly is fully complete.

16) Compress the two spring tension units and use Duck-tape, clamps or a 2nd pair of hands to maintain this tensioned condition while fitting the remaining cable/components.

17) Place Mid-stop 1 into position in respective Window carrier. Press-fit into position as required.

18) Place Mid-stop 2 into position in respective Window carrier. Press-fit into position as required.

19) Fit Mid-stop 1 to Mid-stop 2 cable components in place and then fit cable (now under tension) around final pulley (pulley beside Mid-stop 2 in case shown). Use the cable-grab feature on the pulley to pull-rotate the cable into position. 
Use a long-nose pliers to rotate the pulley.

20) Repeat process for cable between Mid-stop 1 and End-stop 1.

21) Repeat process for cable between Mid-stop 2 and End-stop 2.

22) Remove the Duck-tape, clamps or whatever was used to maintain spring tension.

23) Apply some silicone grease to the cable runs, particularly those that run over pulleys.

24) Test the assembly by using a long-nosed pliers or equivalent to rotate the drive unit and thereby move the window-carriers up and down the slides. Move the window carriers to the upper position before re-fitting into the door, as this ensures access to the window clamp fasteners.


----------



## audikarlos

hi all,

I have today repaired the broken window regulator on my 08 reg tt using minttts photo instructions on pdf and using the e-crofting trade crimping tool kit and with stainless steel wire. 100% success.

many thanks to minttt for his efforts!
It would have taken a lot longer without his instructions!

I am still an Audi fan but it just doesn't make sense how Audi are dealing with this issue. Why keep fitting a wire that is obviously known to them not be fit for purpose. Should be illegal. I suppose they're saving money and also make money on refitting an equally defective replacement. I certainly won't get another Audi from Audi Truro.

I shall keep an eye on this thread to see how things develop.


----------



## kdf

Well, Took my car to Edinburgh Audi to have the window fixed. Upon arriving I asked them to take a look at my iPod dock as it wasn't working and my door handles as they were sticking as well.

Cut a long story short, Window is now fixed. Door handles greased but they might still stick - there is a note on their system that this is a known fault, if I want them replaced just rebook. iPod dock didn't work for them either, a fault search showed an intermittant "no connection" fault. Just to rebook to get it fixed.

Very impressed with the service I recieved, the reason for me needing to rebook the car in was because it was a Saturday and they only do quick jobs (which they actually stated when I booked it in originally).

All in all very impressed (had heard bad things about Edinburgh Audi).


----------



## illingworth22

audikarlos said:


> hi all,
> 
> I have today repaired the broken window regulator on my 08 reg tt using minttts photo instructions on pdf and using the e-crofting trade crimping tool kit and with stainless steel wire. 100% success.
> 
> many thanks to minttt for his efforts!
> It would have taken a lot longer without his instructions!
> 
> I am still an Audi fan but it just doesn't make sense how Audi are dealing with this issue. Why keep fitting a wire that is obviously known to them not be fit for purpose. Should be illegal. I suppose they're saving money and also make money on refitting an equally defective replacement. I certainly won't get another Audi from Audi Truro.
> 
> I shall keep an eye on this thread to see how things develop.


Did you report the Window Regulator fault to your Audi Dealer? I know you fixed it yourself, but it still needs to be reported To Audi to be able to pick up on the fault!


----------



## audikarlos

Hi there,

yes, of course I spoke to Audi Truro about the issue.
The service manager very "kindly" offered to re-fit a not fit for purpose window regulator for the price of £305 as an act of goodwill. Dread to think what the price would have been had I not raised the issue. I politely declined. It isn't good enough.

Had I the energy I might pursue it further. 
Instead they lose my custom.


----------



## markc555

Hi chaps, you can add me to the list. The passenger side window of our 2007 Cab (one of the first in the country) has just failed at the weekend and the drivers side went about 18months ago. The car has only just clicked over 18K miles, in 5yrs, so it's not exactly over used!

I think I'll request a copy of mintnt's guide and decide if I'm up to the DIY fix.

Cheers

Mark


----------



## Jasper

My TT in for oil change service today - Audi ring to say window will not go up (was OK when they collected it) but will only cost me £50 as I have taken out extended warranty. Still this should not happen on a "quality car", its not as if electric windows are a new concept - Audi really do spoil things with a lack of quality control on "minor equipment"


----------



## markc555

Jasper said:


> Audi really do spoil things with a lack of quality control on "minor equipment"


Sadly it's not just the minor stuff. We had the saggy seat base (replaced under warranty), faulty heated rear window (entire hood replaced under warranty) and the big one a "hunting", when moving off very slowly, DSG g'box which as it was JUST out of warranty (but only covered 10K miles) when reported they refuse to accept is a problem. They were good enough to charge me almost £300 for a precautionary g'box oil change, which of course made no difference, though. I know it's the mechatronic unit, they know it's the mechatronic unit but they'd much rather have £2K out of me to replace it.

Looks like I'll have to post a bit more on here before I'm allowed to PM minttt for the fitment guide.

Cheers

Mark


----------



## audikarlos

hmm, yes it's a pain! i'm waiting for the passenger side to break any day now...
minttts instructions are available in the make2 TT knowledge base.
they are very good. the only thing he doesn't mention is how to wind the spool although that is covered in the e-crofting instructions.

good luck


----------



## Lizibee

Hiya, Im just awaiting our new TT on order but wanted to add VW Golf are the same with the windows, my first one was 5 yrs old when the drivers side went, luckily at the time my father in law worked for VW so we got it reduced, even though its a known fault they still don't pay for it, then back in '07 we purchased a 6 mth old TDI Golf (so the next model on) and it will be 5 yrs this Sept and literally last week I said to hubbie I can hear my window (drivers again!) starting to make the ratcheting noise, so exactly the same problem but with the newer model! thank god its going in the next month or so when my new baby arrives, although am gutted to now read that these seem have the same problem :-(

How the hell can they charge for repair when its a known fault, I was told it was because the original regulator was plastic that it snaps and when repaired they replaced with metal ones, I could however be talking out of my rear end :lol: surely if plastic was the issue they would replace with metal full stop so it wouldn't happen in the first place???


----------



## Nathan

My (2007) passenger side window has gone this evening! I'm gutted!!! 

I would be extremely grateful if someone would kindly email me Minttt's guide!?!

Thank you in advance, Nath


----------



## minttt

Nathan said:


> My (2007) passenger side window has gone this evening! I'm gutted!!!
> 
> I would be extremely grateful if someone would kindly email me Minttt's guide!?!
> 
> Thank you in advance, Nath


Hi Nath,
Just sent those now, as .pdf files.
They're on the KB now also, but the .pdf's are easier to print and there is some detail missing for the Window Reg repair version in the KB - hopefully that will be sorted soon.
Good luck!


----------



## Nathan

minttt said:


> Nathan said:
> 
> 
> 
> My (2007) passenger side window has gone this evening! I'm gutted!!!
> 
> I would be extremely grateful if someone would kindly email me Minttt's guide!?!
> 
> Thank you in advance, Nath
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Nath,
> Just sent those now, as .pdf files.
> They're on the KB now also, but the .pdf's are easier to print and there is some detail missing for the Window Reg repair version in the KB - hopefully that will be sorted soon.
> Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Tony, you're a gent! Your guide must be getting some mileage. I hope It's satisfying to know how much you're helping others! I'm going to investigate my window this weekend... and then source the required parts accordingly.

Having had an initial skim through the guide, I'm concerned by the censor. I was planning to leave the inside of the door off, depending on what I find this weekend, *is that a bad idea for any reason?*

The window went down last night no problem, and seemed to be meeting resistance at the half way point on the way back up, it would keep dropping back down again to the fully open position each time I attempted to close it and it reached mid way. *Is this the usual symptoms?*

I managed to close it by repeatedly hitting the up button, almost rhythmically, and under a little protest it did eventually close, half inch at a time. Thank god, the weather has been dreadful the last week or so, and I do not have a garage!

I imagine if it's the cable it'll be obvious, and if it's not the cable it'll be the motor?

I discovered the KB after I posted, but it is definitely more of an asset in PDF, cheers, Nath!


----------



## markc555

Thanks for the PM Tony, my status (lack of it) won't let me reply so I'll respond here 

I'd be very grateful if you could send me your pdf guide, my email address is [email protected]

Thanks again

Mark


----------



## audikarlos

If anyone in the South West doesn't feel technical enough to carry out the repair I'm happy to help.
For a small fee of course hehe...

karl


----------



## minttt

markc555 said:


> Thanks for the PM Tony, my status (lack of it) won't let me reply so I'll respond here
> 
> I'd be very grateful if you could send me your pdf guide.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Mark


Just sent..


----------



## minttt

Nathan said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nathan said:
> 
> 
> 
> My (2007) passenger side window has gone this evening! I'm gutted!!!
> 
> I would be extremely grateful if someone would kindly email me Minttt's guide!?!
> 
> Thank you in advance, Nath
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Nath,
> Just sent those now, as .pdf files.
> They're on the KB now also, but the .pdf's are easier to print and there is some detail missing for the Window Reg repair version in the KB - hopefully that will be sorted soon.
> Good luck!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks a lot Tony, you're a gent! Your guide must be getting some mileage. I hope It's satisfying to know how much you're helping others! I'm going to investigate my window this weekend... and then source the required parts accordingly.
> 
> Having had an initial skim through the guide, I'm concerned by the censor. I was planning to leave the inside of the door off, depending on what I find this weekend, *is that a bad idea for any reason?*
> 
> The window went down last night no problem, and seemed to be meeting resistance at the half way point on the way back up, it would keep dropping back down again to the fully open position each time I attempted to close it and it reached mid way. *Is this the usual symptoms?*
> 
> I managed to close it by repeatedly hitting the up button, almost rhythmically, and under a little protest it did eventually close, half inch at a time. Thank god, the weather has been dreadful the last week or so, and I do not have a garage!
> 
> I imagine if it's the cable it'll be obvious, and if it's not the cable it'll be the motor?
> 
> I discovered the KB after I posted, but it is definitely more of an asset in PDF, cheers, Nath!
Click to expand...

This sounds like a fairly typical cable-failure. I think it depends exactly where the cable breaks as to how it behaves afterwards. With the cable broken there is more resistance for the motor to overcome, especially as the broken cable gets jammed in the mechanism. I think the motor/system detects this extra resistance (motor torque) as being an obstruction in the path of the window (like maybe someone's hand!) and the safety-feature stops the motor trying to drive on. I guess the gradual, incremental moves avoid this.
I really doubt it's a motor problem.

On the crash sensor/pressure sensor, I put all of that detail in the guide as it's in the workshop documentation/procedure that is also available through earlier posts/forum members. My understanding is that the sensor works by detecting a side-impact through the pressure increase in the inner-door compartment when the outer door skin is compressed. So 2 potential issues. 1) You don't want to accidentally trigger a side/curtain air-bag by letting the sensor see increase in pressure with everything powered-on. 2) If you don't have that compartment sealed for any reason (door card/panels left off) then the sensor won't see any pressure increase if you're unlucky enough to have a side-impact, and the relevant air-bag won't trigger.

Best of luck!


----------



## Nathan

minttt said:


> Nathan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot Tony, you're a gent! Your guide must be getting some mileage. I hope It's satisfying to know how much you're helping others! I'm going to investigate my window this weekend... and then source the required parts accordingly.
> 
> Having had an initial skim through the guide, I'm concerned by the censor. I was planning to leave the inside of the door off, depending on what I find this weekend, *is that a bad idea for any reason?*
> 
> The window went down last night no problem, and seemed to be meeting resistance at the half way point on the way back up, it would keep dropping back down again to the fully open position each time I attempted to close it and it reached mid way. *Is this the usual symptoms?*
> 
> I managed to close it by repeatedly hitting the up button, almost rhythmically, and under a little protest it did eventually close, half inch at a time. Thank god, the weather has been dreadful the last week or so, and I do not have a garage!
> 
> I imagine if it's the cable it'll be obvious, and if it's not the cable it'll be the motor?
> 
> I discovered the KB after I posted, but it is definitely more of an asset in PDF, cheers, Nath!
> 
> 
> 
> This sounds like a fairly typical cable-failure. I think it depends exactly where the cable breaks as to how it behaves afterwards. With the cable broken there is more resistance for the motor to overcome, especially as the broken cable gets jammed in the mechanism. I think the motor/system detects this extra resistance (motor torque) as being an obstruction in the path of the window (like maybe someone's hand!) and the safety-feature stops the motor trying to drive on. I guess the gradual, incremental moves avoid this.
> I really doubt it's a motor problem.
> 
> On the crash sensor/pressure sensor, I put all of that detail in the guide as it's in the workshop documentation/procedure that is also available through earlier posts/forum members. My understanding is that the sensor works by detecting a side-impact through the pressure increase in the inner-door compartment when the outer door skin is compressed. So 2 potential issues. 1) You don't want to accidentally trigger a side/curtain air-bag by letting the sensor see increase in pressure with everything powered-on. 2) If you don't have that compartment sealed for any reason (door card/panels left off) then the sensor won't see any pressure increase if you're unlucky enough to have a side-impact, and the relevant air-bag won't trigger.
> 
> Best of luck!
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense... Thanks a lot for your help, I'm very grateful! I'll let you know what I find!


----------



## Ian.C

Passenger side went today (07 v6 25k miles) [smiley=bigcry.gif] .Will try the diy route and do both sides so don't have the worry of waiting for the drivers side to go when you least expect it.Lucky its supposed to be summer. All those tt owners whose have not gone yet are going to end up very paranoid indeed.Thanks guys for doing the how to do the job, much appreciated.Will report failure to audi and give them a hard time. Ps hello everyone.
Regards Ian.C


----------



## davidg

Mine has gone drivers side 3.5 years old 13k miles ,,, booked in at awesome gti next week


----------



## -:[KM]:-

Passenger side went last night....
Bloody, bloody, bloody.


----------



## mooffaTT

Drivers side kaput,phoned Audi Glasgow,didn't want to know.Ah well should have kept my mark 1


----------



## -:[KM]:-

And a neighbours drivers side went too. Replaced on warranty at a VW dealership...
Bloody, bloody, bloody (for him).


----------



## Razza

My passenger side went 2 weeks back. I hardly drive the car and this might have been the first time I have ever opened the window since owning the car. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I'll be replacing both mechanisms in the next couple of months using the trade tool kit version from e-crofting which I've just purchased. If you're considering changing more than two TT regulators, you'll need to specify this when ordering the kit as the trade kit tries to cater for multiple vehicle models (8 regulators in the item posting) by having a mix of parts - however you only get enough parts for 2 full TT regulators.


----------



## audikarlos

Hi Nathan,

I don't have the privileges to respond to your pm.
Maybe an administrator, Hoggy perhaps, can change my status on here to allow me to respond.

In the meantime, maybe you can send me your email by pm and I will respond to that.
Although I'm not looking to sell the e-crofting tool as I've only replaced the one broken regulator as yet. And I expect my wife's car windows will brake at some point. Also, I'd be happy to help anyone who needs it to do the repair.

Regards
Karl


----------



## minttt

Hmmm... couple of options here as the number of people reporting failed window regs increases nearly daily.. at least for anyone who wants/needs to go the DIY route..

e-crofting solution for TT currently needs to involve the Trade-kit including the Crimp-tool (£89.99 on e-bay) as the mid-stop fittings have to be crimped (glue-only option -as per standard repair kits - will not reliably work for the 2 x mid-stop fittings involved).
This Trade-kit is really aimed at Indie repair business looking to offer window reg repairs for multiple different makes/models coming in off the street. In fact, as pointed out earlier, the kit has a variety of stop-fittings which aren't specific to TT and will actually only cover 2 x TT specific window reg repairs.. (not the 8 off mentioned)

From e-mail exchange with Roy from e-crofting (very helpful), and having passed on the How-to guide with cable dimensions etc., he is considering offering a TT specific kit with hire of the Crimp tool involved.. maybe a bit tricky to arrange through e-bay, I'm not sure.. This would make sense for most TT owners who might want to DIY repair, one or both windows, but don't necessarily want to end up with a treasured(!) but expensive crimp-tool!

Otherwise... for anyone who has bought the Trade kit and crimp-tool and is now finished with it.. passing it on through the forum here is an option..

Also, for anyone going the St(D!!)ealer option ... would be good to request that the failed/removed window reg assembly unit (or at least the cable assy) is returned ... as this will have all the necessary parts to prepare a repaired unit which can then be passed on (at reasonable cost!) to the next guy/girl who needs it.. it's a lot easier to just replace the Window reg unit than to remove/repair/replace. But for anyone who's repaired one Window reg, the next one will be much easier..

Just some thoughts, lots of options .. just need to see what interest there is in sharing (cost-plus!) experience, parts, tools..


----------



## Templar

minttt said:


> Hmmm... couple of options here as the number of people reporting failed window regs increases nearly daily.. at least for anyone who wants/needs to go the DIY route..
> 
> e-crofting solution for TT currently needs to involve the Trade-kit including the Crimp-tool (£89.99 on e-bay) as the mid-stop fittings have to be crimped (glue-only option -as per standard repair kits - will not reliably work for the 2 x mid-stop fittings involved).
> This Trade-kit is really aimed at Indie repair business looking to offer window reg repairs for multiple different makes/models coming in off the street. In fact, as pointed out earlier, the kit has a variety of stop-fittings which aren't specific to TT and will actually only cover 2 x TT specific window reg repairs.. (not the 8 off mentioned)
> 
> From e-mail exchange with Roy from e-crofting (very helpful), and having passed on the How-to guide with cable dimensions etc., he is considering offering a TT specific kit with hire of the Crimp tool involved.. maybe a bit tricky to arrange through e-bay, I'm not sure.. This would make sense for most TT owners who might want to DIY repair, one or both windows, but don't necessarily want to end up with a treasured(!) but expensive crimp-tool!
> 
> Otherwise... for anyone who has bought the Trade kit and crimp-tool and is now finished with it.. passing it on through the forum here is an option..
> 
> Also, for anyone going the St(D!!)ealer option ... would be good to request that the failed/removed window reg assembly unit (or at least the cable assy) is returned ... as this will have all the necessary parts to prepare a repaired unit which can then be passed on (at reasonable cost!) to the next guy/girl who needs it.. it's a lot easier to just replace the Window reg unit than to remove/repair/replace. But for anyone who's repaired one Window reg, the next one will be much easier..
> 
> Just some thoughts, lots of options .. just need to see what interest there is in sharing (cost-plus!) experience, parts, tools..


Just a thought, but could the deal for the kits be done without dealing through EBay, as a lot of companies now trade with paypal directly. This should also save a percentage for ecroft and maybe a better deal for TTOC members.
Not being totally up on this repair as such but is there a reason why ecroft cannot supply a fully assembled cable or does the cable need feeding through the regulator and crimped on final assembly ?


----------



## minttt

No reason that I can see why e-bay can't be bypassed, just use PayPal for payment...

e-crofting currently offer an option to send them the failed cable-assembly with all components, which they will replace with a re-built assembly (new cable, with all components, stops, outers, fittings in position) which can then be re-fitted to the broken window regulator and replaced in the door. The only problem with this is the delay between removing the broken window reg, sending off the cable for repair, receiving it back.. replacing in window reg and re-fitting in door.
If you're happy to 'rig' the window up in the meantime ( with cable-ties, foam, props) then it might be ok... probably not for most people who I'd guess would like to 'fix' all in one go..

If someone offered a replacement repaired full window-reg-cable assembly (based on passing on the broken unit with all fittings) .. I think that could be a runner..
You purchase the repaired/good Window Reg unit for say £150.. use it to fix your window/door .. and return the failed Window/Reg unit to provider to then recieve a refund of say £100..


----------



## Nathan

I was planning to wait until after the weekend; once I've had a chance to attempt the repair, before providing an update but *Roy Mackay ([email protected])* or *([email protected])* has sent me the tool on loan with enough materials (cable, end & mid stops) to repair three windows, both my windows and one spare incase I balls it up, and need the extras.

The tool is a free loan, I have paid a refundable deposit of £40, and £20 per 'kit' I can send back any 'kit' I do not use for a refund. Postage was £6. So theoretically, I could fix my broken window reg for £32 including all postage.

I'll let you all know how I get on, I am going to attempt to remove the reg on Saturday, and perform the repair. I have never turned a spanner in my life, so if I can do it, I am confident anyone can!!!

I am currently driving around with the door stripped. I found that my cable had frayed in the bottom right corner (passenger side) I cut the cable in order to manually push the glass back up, the window is pretty tight/stiff and will stay in place, I've just put a couple of cable ties through the runners to prevent the two stops that hold the glass sliding down.

*Karl*: thanks for your post, I am also South West. I am very grateful for your offer to help, let me see how I get on this weekend, and I may well take you up on that.

Thanks again to *Minttt* for all his guidance so far!


----------



## Templar

minttt said:


> No reason that I can see why e-bay can't be bypassed, just use PayPal for payment...
> 
> e-crofting currently offer an option to send them the failed cable-assembly with all components, which they will replace with a re-built assembly (new cable, with all components, stops, outers, fittings in position) which can then be re-fitted to the broken window regulator and replaced in the door. The only problem with this is the delay between removing the broken window reg, sending off the cable for repair, receiving it back.. replacing in window reg and re-fitting in door.
> If you're happy to 'rig' the window up in the meantime ( with cable-ties, foam, props) then it might be ok... probably not for most people who I'd guess would like to 'fix' all in one go..
> 
> If someone offered a replacement repaired full window-reg-cable assembly (based on passing on the broken unit with all fittings) .. I think that could be a runner..
> You purchase the repaired/good Window Reg unit for say £150.. use it to fix your window/door .. and return the failed Window/Reg unit to provider to then recieve a refund of say £100..


I think that could be a nice little earner for someone with a little spare time on their hands and what a popular person they would be. 
;-)


----------



## Templar

Nathan said:


> I was planning to wait until after the weekend; once I've had a chance to attempt the repair, before providing an update but *Roy Mackay ([email protected])* or *([email protected])* has sent me the tool on loan with enough materials (cable, end & mid stops) to repair three windows, both my windows and one spare incase I balls it up, and need the extras.
> 
> The tool is a free loan, I have paid a refundable deposit of £40, and £20 per 'kit' I can send back any 'kit' I do not use for a refund. Postage was £6. So theoretically, I could fix my broken window reg for £32 including all postage.
> 
> I'll let you all know how I get on, I am going to attempt to remove the reg on Saturday, and perform the repair. I have never turned a spanner in my life, so if I can do it, I am confident anyone can!!!
> 
> I am currently driving around with the door stripped. I found that my cable had frayed in the bottom right corner (passenger side) I cut the cable in order to manually push the glass back up, the window is pretty tight/stiff and will stay in place, I've just put a couple of cable ties through the runners to prevent the two stops that hold the glass sliding down.
> 
> *Karl*: thanks for your post, I am also South West. I am very grateful for your offer to help, let me see how I get on this weekend, and I may well take you up on that.
> 
> Thanks again to *Minttt* for all his guidance so far!


Good luck fella, at least there's plenty of support and knowledge cropping up now. ;-)


----------



## illingworth22

Dear All,

Do us all a favour and contact Audi direct, they need to know about this direct as they don't read the forums. The more they know the more they MAY help! Audi UK have acknowledged that loads of parts have been ordered but due to the high cost of the fix the work is being done by NON Audi garages and the fault is not getting flagged!

Also check out the poll on this site and vote!

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433


----------



## minttt

illingworth22 said:


> Dear All,
> 
> Do us all a favour and contact Audi direct, they need to know about this direct as they don't read the forums. The more they know the more they MAY help! Audi UK have acknowledged that loads of parts have been ordered but due to the high cost of the fix the work is being done by NON Audi garages and the fault is not getting flagged!
> 
> Also check out the poll on this site and vote!
> 
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433


Agreed .. although I had no confidence in getting assistance from Audi on this, and had decided early to go the DIY route, I have e-mailed them to formally get it on record that I've had a Window Reg failure on my car.
Last thing we want is for Audi to deny knowledge of the extent of this problem.


----------



## audikarlos

It doesn't make sense not to ask Audi first to do the repair. I assume everyone has contacted Audi and I'm sure they are very aware. What is needed is for TV's Watchdog to do something. Or legal action. Audi are quite happy with status quo.


----------



## Ian.C

I repaired the passenger & the drivers window regulators using mintts guide.I started at 8.30 finished 5.30  .
It was a little stressful but not to bad after you have done the first repair.Both regulators had no wear on them,all what was at fault was the crap wire they use.Rust had caused a couple of strands to unravel & cause the problem.
A big thankyou to mintts for his how to guide & to Roy from e-crofting for parts & advice.
Audi wanted to charge £348 per side £696  they did say that they might give 40/50% off as i have FASH.
My advice is if you think you are capable of doing it give it a go,i also purchased ten door card clips from Ipswich audi for £4.92 as they tend to break in removal.
The downside is the wife said as we have saved a small fortune i can now go and buy a Karen Millen dress :? 
Regards Ian.C


----------



## audikarlos

Yes, that's terrible news. I feel for you. A Karen Millen dress will set you back more than Audi's repair.
But are there rewards...

Karl


----------



## illingworth22

Ian.C said:


> I repaired the passenger & the drivers window regulators using mintts guide.I started at 8.30 finished 5.30  .
> It was a little stressful but not to bad after you have done the first repair.Both regulators had no wear on them,all what was at fault was the crap wire they use.Rust had caused a couple of strands to unravel & cause the problem.
> A big thankyou to mintts for his how to guide & to Roy from e-crofting for parts & advice.
> Audi wanted to charge £348 per side £696  they did say that they might give 40/50% off as i have FASH.
> My advice is if you think you are capable of doing it give it a go,i also purchased ten door card clips from Ipswich audi for £4.92 as they tend to break in removal.
> The downside is the wife said as we have saved a small fortune i can now go and buy a Karen Millen dress :?
> Regards Ian.C


I find the Karen Millen dresses a little on the tight side on the Bum  :lol:


----------



## minttt

Ian.C said:


> I repaired the passenger & the drivers window regulators using mintts guide.I started at 8.30 finished 5.30  .
> It was a little stressful but not to bad after you have done the first repair.Both regulators had no wear on them,all what was at fault was the crap wire they use.Rust had caused a couple of strands to unravel & cause the problem.
> A big thankyou to mintts for his how to guide & to Roy from e-crofting for parts & advice.
> Audi wanted to charge £348 per side £696  they did say that they might give 40/50% off as i have FASH.
> My advice is if you think you are capable of doing it give it a go,i also purchased ten door card clips from Ipswich audi for £4.92 as they tend to break in removal.
> The downside is the wife said as we have saved a small fortune i can now go and buy a Karen Millen dress :?
> Regards Ian.C


Haha! Fairplay getting all that done in one day! You deserve a little black number .. for both of you! 8) 
(or 4 little black numbers for the four corners alternatively!  )
Yes, agree it's stressful.. not so nice ripping the doors apart and cutting cables!  
But, better than the alternative ($$$), and a cold beer afterwards is nice reward and feels good..

Pass on any comments/feedback on the procedure please, as there's still a lot of interest..
How did you get on with the cable-dimensions? and with re-fitting the cable to the regulator? (that's a tricky bit)..
Any pointers/tips you'd add?
Cheers,
mint


----------



## Nathan

Hi Tony, thanks for your email, I was very close to loosing it all together when I emailed you, haha!

I followed your measurements exactly, and although it's VERY hard to tell for sure; because it was in such a state, the existing cable seemed to match in length also.

I spent an entire day, about 7hrs messing about with it in total! The most frustrating thing is, I'm certain I'd be on here telling you just how easy it all was if I hadn't of ended up 25mm short!?! It could've taken me 3hrs max, and I worked sooo slowly, checking every little thing as I went. It all went so well, nothing else was a problem, but when it came to placing the cable back over each of the four rollers, I just couldn't get it over the last, with help. Nothing I did would just give me that little bit extra I needed. It was the most frustrating thing!

I ended up cutting 25mm off the (3rd) section of outer cable between midstop 2 and endstop 2, at the spool end; I was late for a very important date and running out of day light, which enabled me to get the cable on, and only just! A bit of a botch I know but it seemed like a good idea at the time, and the clamps would roll perfectly from top to bottom...

It all worked beautifully, so I put it back into the car AND.......... the glass roles about 12.5mm too low and 12.5mm to high!!! GRRRRR

I messed around with the position of the clamps that hold the glass, the adjustment where the midstops clamp and still it doesn't sit fully open or full closed. I can get it all the way the down, and I can get it all the way up but not both!!!

Everyone thinks I'm nuts and should be over the moon that I fixed it myself, considering I've never even held a spanner, let alone turned one, but I'm so confident I can get it perfect, and I have to for my own sanity!!!

I think I will place the cable back into the runners, rollers, and spool, (EndStop1 only and mark the position of the mid stops on the cable in situ (I think that is what you call it.) before adding the final end stop, to get it perfect! It'll be tricky, I may have to add an end stop and then replace it, but this may be my only way of getting it right!


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## d1will

Nathan,
I had a similar problem to yourself when I decided to take the plunge and fix it myself.
I spent a whole hungover day and wasn't able to fix the drivers side (which was the broken one) and it was because I forgot I'd cut a small portion of the old wire off so didn't cut the new cable to the correct length! THIS IS VITAL PEOPLE!!

ENSURE THAT YOU CUT THE CABLE TO THE CORRECT LENGTH!!!! A little too long is ok but not too short.

I then replaced the passenger side fairly quickly but when I had finished I found the window would not go all the way down [smiley=bigcry.gif]

The way to avoid this is to fit the reel when the runners are ALL THE WAY DOWN ie when the window would be fully open. This then gives you one end of the cable that is much longer and a short end which can be wound onto the reel fairly easily.

As for getting the cable on the wheels I struggled with this initially but there are 2 tips that will help:

1) make sure the spring tensioners are as tight as possible. I used some old electrical cable that could be cut off after use.
2) DO NOT put any of the cable on the big part of the running wheels - put the cable over all 4 of the "small cams" on the inside of the wheels. This will give you enough slack to get the cable on. Then when you fit the motor and turn it the cable will run onto the larger wheel.

To get the stops in the correct place I just laid the old cable out, put the new cable next to it and marked it with a pen. Worked fine without any measuring!

I must also echo the thanks given to Roy from e-crofting. He was fantastic and I couldn't have done it without him. Top guy.

Hope this helps someone spend less time than me! If I were to do it again I'm sure it could do it in an hour :lol: 
Let me know if I can help.


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## robokn

Well my TTS now has an issue with drivers side F'ing Audi TT's


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## Nathan

d1will said:


> ...when I had finished I found the window would not go all the way down.
> 
> The way to avoid this is to fit the reel when the runners are ALL THE WAY DOWN ie when the window would be fully open. This then gives you one end of the cable that is much longer and a short end which can be wound onto the reel fairly easily.
> 
> As for getting the cable on the wheels I struggled with this initially but there are 2 tips that will help:
> 
> 2) DO NOT put any of the cable on the big part of the running wheels - put the cable over all 4 of the "small cams" on the inside of the wheels. This will give you enough slack to get the cable on. Then when you fit the motor and turn it the cable will run onto the larger wheel.


Hi, thanks for your thoughts, I can get the window to sit fully open, but then I cannot get the window to close fully! VERY FRUSTRATING!!! I can only think that this is linked to the fact I could not get the cable back into the runners, spool, rollers, etc. I just didn't have enough slack, no matter what I did, I was 25mm short, so I gave myself the 25mm by cutting the outer cable... I measured and remeasured and checked the new cable 10times!!!

...I wish I'd come up with your idea, that is SMART!!! So you're saying for example, had I of only looped the cable around 3 times instead of four, then fitted the cable, I could have wound in the extra manually prior to fitting?

...thinking about it a little more, I don't understand how you made that work because surely as I wind in the extra cable on to the spool on one side, it's still being fed out the other? Meaning I would only ever have 3 winds, and 1 wind, instead of 4 & 1?

Thanks for your help!!!


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## Nathan

...I forgot to mention, I can manually push the window down just enough to remove the last bit of window sticking out, and can then see the right side clamp (passenger window) hit the bump stop at the bottom of the runner, but the motor stops it short almost?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH!!!!!

I'm wonderng how the motor knows how far to wind itself in either direction? Is it resistance that stops it at the extent of travel, or is it set to wind for a programed amout of time, or distance only?

I did the 'reset procedure' (not convinced this does anything) to try and convince the motor to accept the lowest position I can manually push the glass to, but nothing...


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## minttt

Hi Nathan,

Well, I'm not too sure, and it's easy to find potential problems when you're at your desk reading about it and not sitting on your driveway with your Window Reg in bits and the door stripped apart .. but here's my input..

Cutting 25mm from the outer-cable(diagonal section) is likely to affect how level the two separate window carriers are. Presuming the cable/stop dims are correct, taking 25mm out from this outer-cable will mean that one window carrier will be 25mm lower than the other.

When you fit this, you would have to adjust the window position in the clamps (and/or clamp adjustment) to get the window level. It would also likely translate into one carrier hitting the bump-stops 25mm before the other.. which might explain what you're seeing. I'm not sure how you'd be able to push/lift the window beyond this though .. unless you're moving the window position in the clamps.

I'm fairly sure that the overall cable length/winds on the reel are more than enough to cater for the full window travel. Estimating from the photo, I think there's around 400mm window travel, and at least 500mm cable length to meet this. The motor stops at top and bottom based on resistance. The resistance should come from the carriers hitting the bump-stops, definitely not from running out of cable/winds.

I know the cable is extremely tight to fit back into the regulator - I started out thinking myself that there was no way to get 
it on, but did eventually. I can only think that's the root cause here.
It would be great to hear what others who've done the repair think on this. 
Especially on the dimensions and whether some correction (lengthening) is required?

Some good tips have already come through..
1)	Roy: Carriers at mid-way position (half-way up runners) should allow more slack at the pulley-wheels.
2)	D1will: Looping the cable over the cams on all the pulley-wheels (x4) initially should help (last one will still be the hardest to rotate into position obviously) 
3)	Definitely need to have the two spring tensioners fully compressed to free up that extra bit of cable.


----------



## Nathan

minttt said:


> Cutting 25mm from the outer-cable(diagonal section) is likely to affect how level the two separate window carriers are. Presuming the cable/stop dims are correct, taking 25mm out from this outer-cable will mean that one window carrier will be 25mm lower than the other.
> 
> When you fit this, you would have to adjust the window position in the clamps (and/or clamp adjustment) to get the window level. It would also likely translate into one carrier hitting the bump-stops 25mm before the other.. which might explain what you're seeing. I'm not sure how you'd be able to push/lift the window beyond this though .. unless you're moving the window position in the clamps.


I'm really sorry, I'm an idiot, I did not make myself clear at all, I did not cut the centre section, I infact cut the 3rd section of outer cable, between mid stop 2 and endstop 2, at the spool end.

I am definitely not moving the glass in the clamps.

There is no bump stop on the left side, and there is so much cable left in the spool, more than enough for the travel to the only bump stop I can see, (at the base of the right runner.) I just don't understand what is creating the final resistance and stopping the movement prior to the bump stop on the right, (Coincidentally? ...about 25mm short) which I can then manually push, so I know it's not running unevenly, and the left side is hitting the bottom first.

Replacing the 4 nuts (10&13) and getting the carriers back in the door was a little tighter maybe as a result of my cutting the outer cable but with a bit of persuasion they located alright and are not out of line or anything.



minttt said:


> I'm fairly sure that the overall cable length/winds on the reel are more than enough to cater for the full window travel. Estimating from the photo, I think there's around 400mm window travel, and at least 500mm cable length to meet this. The motor stops at top and bottom based on resistance. The resistance should come from the carriers hitting the bump-stops, definitely not from running out of cable/winds.


Way more than enough, I worked out that the four lengths/turns that you wrap (end stop 2) round the spool infact only come out roughly two and a half times... (at the same time pulling an equivalent amount of cable back in at the end stop 1 end.) I considered only wrapping it around 3 times and gaining the extra length that way, and cutting out some excess cable and recrimping end stop 2... but I was concerned that the cable would not sit tightly on the reel, clearly designed for 5 'spools' of wire in total.

I'm out of ideas, I'm going to redo the job on saturday, but I'm just worried it'll be the same again.


----------



## d1will

Hi Nathan,
I should also be a bit clearer as I know it's a massive pain of a job because I made mistakes and had to figure out loads of problems i caused myself! Here is how I would do it if I did it again:

1) Use the old cable to measure the new one. Mark the exact positions of the stops with a marker. NB ensure you have the correct end of the cable and have the parts in order ie I had the correct cable length with the stops at the correct length from the end but then put the parts on in reverse order and that led to the window not going down all the way! (Maybe your issue?)
2) Lay out the parts and feed the correct parts on fitting the stops as you go.
3) Let the adhesive set.
4) Compress the spring tensioners by wrapping some old electrical cable around them and one of the plastic lugs that come through the door from the regulator(the plastic piece the reel goes in).
5) Put the parts and cable in the right place in the door (just use the clips and loosely place near the cams.
6) Get someone to hold a bit of tension on one end or put a clamp on it and have both cables hanging through the circular hole in the door (that has a plastic blanking plate on it shaped like a shield).
7) With a bit of tension on both ends as above put the cable over ALL 4 cams (the inner smaller part of the guide reels). 
8) Position the window clamps at THE BOTTOM of the runners (the one closest to the open side of the door will be higher than the other one.
9) Wind the longest part of the cable around the reel. Then wind the opposite cable on. Its hard to explain how to do this but I'm guessing you know how already. You just need to take your time and not let it slip out of your hand.
10) you should now be able to push the reel into the housing (carefully or it will unwind as it did about 50 times for me!)
11) Now WHILE HOLDING the reel housing in place (it won't be fitted correctly due to the electrical cable obstructing the lugs that fit into the door) turn the reel through the whole it will end up in with a pair of needle nose pliers and as the window clamps rise up the cams will turn the cable onto the larger wheels!
12) Now remove the electrical cable from the tensioners.
13) refit window into the correct place (you don't need to keep fitting and removing the motor just turn the reel manually to the top and close the door and adjust as necessary).
14) refit the motor and the rest of the door!!!!!!
15) Have a beer and congradulate yourself on saving a fortune in return for some stress and a year off your life :lol:


----------



## minttt

Hi Nathan,
No worries on previous description .. it's a complicated system to describe!

OK, if you've taken 25mm off the cable-outer between mid-stop 2 and end-stop 2, my guess is that there's 25mm slack on that side of the drive.. and 25mm missing motion..
Yes, it also makes sense that the carriers would be level .. this is determined by the length of the Mid-stop section.

Not sure, but I think this makes some sense: ...The system works with 'one cable' by the motor either pulling the cable one-way through the rails etc. for UP (and pulling the carriers along with it) ... and pulling the other way for DOWN. Obviously it can't 'push' the cable .. 
So for one motion (say UP) it's using tension on the cable in one direction and one of the End-stops.
For the other motion (DOWN) it's using tension on the cable in the opposite direction and the other End-stop.
The 2 spring-tensioners keep the cable tight on the side that is not being directly driven.

I'm guessing the slack then means the motor can't drive the cable all the way, although I'm not sure how to explain that..
(but it would make sense that you can then manually push/pull the window the remaining distance - taking up the slack. You wouldn't be able to move the carriers/window if it meant rotating the motor)

If you haven't done already I'd really recommend you have a chat with Roy at e-crofting.. He's been really helpful for everyone who's dealt with him that I can see.
([email protected]) or phone number (01573-238136)
He has a lot of experience/knowledge on these systems and I'm sure can explain this and offer you some good advice..

Sounds like a very frustrating issue to have .. hang in there!!


----------



## Nathan

d1will said:


> 1) Use the old cable to measure the new one. Mark the exact positions of the stops with a marker. NB ensure you have the correct end of the cable and have the parts in order ie I had the correct cable length with the stops at the correct length from the end but then put the parts on in reverse order and that led to the window not going down all the way! (Maybe your issue?)
> 
> *I did this as best I could, when I show you the pics I took of my cable you will understand, (I'm going to post them ASAP!) but it was an absolute mess, very shocking! I had to rely on Tony's measurements entirely! (I do not wish to propose that they are wrong at all, but I can't explain why I need an extra 25mm?!? I just can't believe that any of our systems are any different and would require different length cables!!!)*
> 
> 2) Lay out the parts and feed the correct parts on fitting the stops as you go.
> 
> *Did this*
> 
> 3) Let the adhesive set.
> 
> *I used the crimping tool*
> 
> 4) Compress the spring tensioners by wrapping some old electrical cable around them and one of the plastic lugs that come through the door from the regulator(the plastic piece the reel goes in).
> 
> *Did this, and had a very helpful friend to help hold these, with the aid of a pair of gloves, haha*
> 
> 5) Put the parts and cable in the right place in the door (just use the clips and loosely place near the cams.
> 6) Get someone to hold a bit of tension on one end or put a clamp on it and have both cables hanging through the circular hole in the door (that has a plastic blanking plate on it shaped like a shield).
> 
> *This can't make it any easier surely? You actually finishing putting it all back together in the door?!?*
> 
> 7) With a bit of tension on both ends as above put the cable over ALL 4 cams (the inner smaller part of the guide reels).
> 
> *This is clever, I didn't think to do that bit. I will definitely attempt that next time.*
> 
> 8) Position the window clamps at THE BOTTOM of the runners (the one closest to the open side of the door will be higher than the other one.
> 9) Wind the longest part of the cable around the reel. Then wind the opposite cable on. Its hard to explain how to do this but I'm guessing you know how already. You just need to take your time and not let it slip out of your hand.
> 
> *Yep, I took the cable on and off so many times, I would go as far as to say, I am now an expert at this bit, haha*
> 
> 10) you should now be able to push the reel into the housing (carefully or it will unwind as it did about 50 times for me!)
> 11) Now WHILE HOLDING the reel housing in place (it won't be fitted correctly due to the electrical cable obstructing the lugs that fit into the door) turn the reel through the whole it will end up in with a pair of needle nose pliers and as the window clamps rise up the cams will turn the cable onto the larger wheels!
> 12) Now remove the electrical cable from the tensioners.
> 13) refit window into the correct place (you don't need to keep fitting and removing the motor just turn the reel manually to the top and close the door and adjust as necessary).
> 14) refit the motor and the rest of the door!!!!!!
> 15) Have a beer and congradulate yourself on saving a fortune in return for some stress and a year off your life :lol:


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## Nathan

I am so grateful to you especially, but everyone that is trying/has tried to help me, it must be frustrating, and I do not mean to disregard your advice on each point, I am taking it all in and will consider it all when I try again...



minttt said:


> OK, if you've taken 25mm off the cable-outer between mid-stop 2 and end-stop 2, my guess is that there's 25mm slack on that side of the drive.. and 25mm missing motion...


The cable was extremely tight, it barely went in to place even with the 25mm outer cable removed, I am going to put this back in and add 25mm to the actual cable when I try again on Saturday.



minttt said:


> I'm guessing the slack then means the motor can't drive the cable all the way, although I'm not sure how to explain that..
> (but it would make sense that you can then manually push/pull the window the remaining distance - taking up the slack. You wouldn't be able to move the carriers/window if it meant rotating the motor)


This sounds VERY interesting... I wish I understood it. :?

To bring the window down I'm thinking endstop 1 is sucked/rotated further on to the spool and, and endstop 2 is then pulled/fed out the other end as a result, which makes even less sense as to why midstop 1 doesn't pull the window carrier/clamp down enough to hit the bumpstop at the base of the runner on the right? Yet this gap can be pushed home?












minttt said:


> If you haven't done already I'd really recommend you have a chat with Roy at e-crofting.. He's been really helpful for everyone who's dealt with him that I can see.
> ([email protected]) or phone number (01573-238136)
> He has a lot of experience/knowledge on these systems and I'm sure can explain this and offer you some good advice..


I didn't think Roy would be able to offer 'TT Specific' advice, but I think I will definitely try him all the same.


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## Nathan

*The absolutely disgraceful state of my window regulator cable after just 15k*



















...please excuse the equally digraceful state of my friends nails, haha


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## minttt

Hi Nathan,
Re your photos: That is ridiculous! Worst case of cable failure/mangling I've seen.. one to send on to Audi .. so much for 'vorsprung durch technik' there.. backwards through sub-standard material more like..

On the cable dimensions ... I think there's room for debate on the lengths to use. Especially based on your feedback.
The dims I have in the 'How-To' are from my repair, cross-checked on my 'good' passenger side and one other forum member.
I think it is expected to be tight to re-fit the finished/new cable ... but not impossible!

Roy has helped a few forum members with the TT specific repair.
He'll probably tell you himself that he's not a fan of using other peoples cable dims, but I would have thought it should be consistent across TT's.. (and I never got my head around his re-build from scratch method .. The TT one-cable two-mid-stop system is particularly difficult to apply this method to I believe..) He was re-assuring on the cross-check of 'good' passenger side to use as reference.

He'd definitely be in a better position to explain what you're seeing with your system now, and I'd hope he could give you more confidence to go at it again on Saturday! Looks like you're very close..


----------



## minttt

Also, I'm wondering if there's a reason why the failure happens sooner for some than others..

I know in my case over recent winters I've had a lot of mornings I've had to use kettle of warm water to de-frost window, and particularly to 'release' it along the window seal.. (when frosted up, there's no way motor will overcome the friction of ice all along that long window... and I have a 5 min drive to work where I have to open window to swipe bade for access)..

I know that water does not collect inside door (having been in there... there's no way water could pool enough to contribute to this problem).. but I'm thinking that water may get past window rubber seals and drain along regulator cables ... especially due to de-icing with warm water??

Anyone else who's had early fails think this might be a factor??
(Still not even close to an Audi excuse though.. :evil: )


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## minttt

Going to post an e-mail from Roy of e-crofting, as I think it may be of interest to anyone looking into DIY route..

(Interesting point on the requests Roy has had for them - e-Crofting- to carry out Window Regulator repairs... fair play to him for not getting in the way of anyone who's going into business on this!! But it does make sense for those who are happy enough to replace the Window Reg assembly, but not necessarily to go through the repair/rebuild process... Anyone looking to offer a repair service could maybe post on here.. Audikarlos to start??)

_Hi,

Thanks for your two recent messages - and my apologies for not getting back to you sooner.

I've made some progress with an Audi TT solution. I've now spoken to a good many TT forum members and it seems clear that the vast majority seem (very sensibly) to want to repair both windows in one go since this problem is so common on the TT. It's also clear how much appreciation there is for the excellent work you've put into producing the guide.

What I've suggested to those I've spoken to is that:

I loan them a tool (subject to a returnable deposit of £40).
I provide them with the materials to repair 2 TT windows @ £20 / window.
I provide them with the materials to repair 1 additional window (in case of mistakes - so they can still complete the repair), subject to a £20 returnable deposit.
Any additional materials (from the 3rd set) are charged per item - and I supply a parts list with prices showing what's included and what's chargeable.
I provide the tool for an agreed period - normally around 7 days, incorporating one weekend to do the job - but with a request that they return it quickly once they're finished.
I charge £1.95 per day for items returned late. (No-one's done this of course.)
There's a £5.95 P&P charge.
I supply a set of instructions (the same as the ones you have).

So - given the above - there's an initial charge of £105.95 and £60.00 is refunded when the package is returned on time (without having had to use any additional materials).
Since most TT's are going to need both windows done (even if only one has actually failed) - and most owners recognise this, there seems little point (at this stage) in going further with the idea of developing an adhesive based solution, since using the tool makes the whole job much quicker and easier - and since it also allows for the possibility of easily supplying additional materials in case of error.

It seems to me that for £40 (+P&P) - this option represents good value. It's also an important consideration - that this option re-uses all the other original regulator components which are perfectly serviceable - and therefore significantly reduces the material usage (and is in effect a very environmentally friendly solution). In effect - customers using this option end up with two enhanced (by virtue of the stainless steel wire) original equipment regulators.

A number of people have also purchased full kits - some standard, some made up just for Audi TT's.

I hope forum members have been pleased with the service we've provided - and the results they've achieved with our products.

You may also be interested to know that I've had some requests for us to repair regulators. However, since there are now a number of people to whom we've supplied the trade kits - I do not want to infringe on that territory and would prefer to be able to point future enquiries of this kind to those with the trade kit who are interested in fulfilling the demand (and promoting the service in their own area - or nationally). In essence - there's a clear, growing commercial opportunity for those interested in pursuing / developing it.

Please do keep in touch - and let me know if there are other suggestions that might improve on what we have so far.

One final thing. It appears that quite a few enquiries have come through eBay. If you want/are able to give my e-mail address ([email protected]) or phone number (01573-238136) to anyone who wants to get in touch - that might make things easier for them.

Best wishes

Roy Mackay_


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## d1will

Hi Nathan (and others!)
I can't believe the state of that cable  
I see now why you would be unable to use it for length. I would definitely advocate using the cable from the other door to get the correct length. I know it seems silly to cut a perfectly 'good' cable but it will be better in the long run and enable you to fix the broken one 2nd time  Again just ensure you make a note of which pieces you cut so you can lay the cable and all the parts out correctly to copy from. (I laid them out on a wall so when I was happy they were in the right order I just worked my way along the wall making the new cable as I went.

And yes I did fit replace the whole thing WITHOUT REMOVING THE RUNNERS AND WHEELS!
I hadn't seen the guide from MintTT when I did mine and it seemed to work ok as long as you're good with your hands :wink:

It just means that when you come to putting it back together everything is in the right place and the cable naturally 'fits' in the right place. Each to their own though.

So if I were you I would fix the other door at the same time, cut the good cable and lay it out to copy twice to fix both doors.
Good luck and if you think I can help any more let me know.

As an aside I did complain to Audi who claimed they haven't really come across this problem and therefore I would have to pay the horrendous cost of repair myself! It took me a long time and a bit of stress but feel quite chuffed I've managed it myself and saved so much money


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## audikarlos

Hi all, for those of you who aren't confident to perform a perfect, accurate repair, you could send me the assembly and I will do it for you. Price to be confirmed. Send any enquiries to [email protected]

Kind Regards
Karl


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## Nathan

I have to apologise to all of you that have offered your help and advice, ESPECIALLY Tony! (MintTT) I'm a complete idiot!!! It always seems so simple when you know the answer/solution!

I have this evening successfully managed to achieve complete movement in both directions. The window now opens and closes fully!

I am EXTREMELY grateful all of you for all your help! All the comments you have made have helped me greatly. Each comment helped prompt me to consider all possible scenarios and ultimately I came to the conclusion that regardless of the 25mm alteration I made to the outer cable, or the fact I couldn't get the cable to fit using the standard measurements offered by Tony in his fantastic guide, the sliders had to be meeting some form of resistance. A better understanding of the motor 'action' for example helped me to come to this conclusion.

OK, so, I am VERY embarrassed to confess that the larger/outer slider, on the left was infact hitting the cable and roller at the base of its runner; (no bump stop) all be it very marginally, and was generating enough resistance to stop the motor... The length of travel and the size of the slider on this side meant that it was coincidentally hitting 25mm before the smaller slider on the other side was hitting its bump stop.

It is all my own fault, in playing with the adjustment of the clamps on the sliders and the alan key adjustment where the midstops connect with the sliders in an attempt to get everything as low as possible I was inadvertently doing the opposite. The lower I managed to drop the large slider on the left the further the slider on the right moved from the bump stop, preventing the glass from dropping home into the door!

My only excuse is that unlike the slider on the right which is in full view through the hole that the speaker sits in, the slider on the left is completely obscured, and i couldn't see it was hitting, it looks so much higher on the runner from the front that you can see, than it is on the other side in reality. I ultimately only managed to come to this conclusion by touch, and only barely, it is not easily accessible. I wasn't certain it was the issue however until I reset all the adjusters back to their central position and the window dropped further than it had previously with all adjustments at their lowest.

Sorry again, I am extremely grateful for all of your time and I can't thank you enough!!!

I would strongly recommend that anyone wishing to attempt it does so, and is not frightened off by my experience! I am completely useless, and despite this one stupid mistake I completed the process very simply and easily.

The one, strong piece of advice I would give is DO NOT touch the adjustment of the sliders, follow Tony's guide to the letter, take your time, no matter how easy it all seems or how experienced you are and check, check again, and recheck everything each step of the way!


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## jamboTT

mine just went pop today argghhhhh just been quoted £200 from an independent garage


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## d1will

glad you got it all sorted Nathan! Saved yourself a packet so be proud!

Jambo don't do it! even £200 is loads! You can do both you windows for £50. You could even take up the offer of the guy offering to do it for a price.
Good luck


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## Nathan

d1will said:


> glad you got it all sorted Nathan! Saved yourself a packet so be proud!
> 
> Jambo don't do it! even £200 is loads! You can do both you windows for £50. You could even take up the offer of the guy offering to do it for a price.
> Good luck


Thanks! It feels pretty good, I've gotta be honest!!! Very pleased! 

I'm ALMOST looking forward to the other one going so I can get it right first time! haha


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## kosmaty80

Hi I have just took door card from my much loved audi tt mk2 3.2 and find out that cable from door regulator split and made whole thing not working Can some bode please help me how to fix it the cable how long it has to be the new one??/ as old one is completely damage all rolled up. do I have to take out window :? ? PLease help... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Thank you in advance


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## kosmaty80

Hi Nath,
Just sent those now, as .pdf files.
They're on the KB now also, but the .pdf's are easier to print and there is some detail missing for the Window Reg repair version in the KB - hopefully that will be sorted soon.
Good luck![/quote]

Hi minttt can I have your pdf guide also pretty please my emial is [email protected]

Many thanks


----------



## Nathan

kosmaty80 said:


> Hi I have just took door card from my much loved audi tt mk2 3.2 and find out that cable from door regulator split and made whole thing not working Can some bode please help me how to fix it the cable how long it has to be the new one??/ as old one is completely damage all rolled up. do I have to take out window :? ? PLease help... [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Thank you in advance


I recommend first of all reading this thread, secondly checking the Knowledge Base section on the main MKII page for a guide on to how to fix it, it's a very common problem it would seem.

You'll need to completely strip the door, remove the glass, and then remove the complete mechanism responsible for raising and lowering the window. Once you have that, you then need to replace the cables, and the components crimped to the cables in order to perform the motion. It's tricky, but very dooable, and considerably cheaper than taking the car to Audi.

A specific 'custom' tool, replacement cable and components are required to perform the repair, all details in the guide created by MintTT (Tony)


----------



## kosmaty80

Nathan said:


> kosmaty80 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi I have just took door card from my much loved audi tt mk2 3.2 and find out that cable from door regulator split and made whole thing not working Can some bode please help me how to fix it the cable how long it has to be the new one??/ as old one is completely damage all rolled up. do I have to take out window :? ? PLease help... [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend first of all reading this thread, secondly checking the Knowledge Base section on the main MKII page for a guide on to how to fix it, it's a very common problem it would seem.
> 
> You'll need to completely strip the door, remove the glass, and then remove the complete mechanism responsible for raising and lowering the window. Once you have that, you then need to replace the cables, and the components crimped to the cables in order to perform the motion. It's tricky, but very dooable, and considerably cheaper than taking the car to Audi.
> 
> A specific 'custom' tool, replacement cable and components are required to perform the repair, all details in the guide
> created by MintTT (Tony)
Click to expand...

Hi yes you are right my regulator look pretty much like yours from pictures that you have added it happens yesterday I manege to take out door cards and engine and also a bit with old pice of wire all cramped like yours although my audi is older than yours and with bigger milage I also think it is DISGRACEFUL in audi to happened I have already reported to audi.

I have read step by step by MintTT(posted here) but do not have a version with pictures which would help a lot as english is not my firs language.

For some reason I can not enter KB it is locked I have register yesterday

PLEASE if you have pdf version with pictures can you please send me on [email protected]

Many thanks


----------



## minttt

Hi Kosmaty
I've sent 2 e-mails to your address with the 2 guide documents (Window Reg removal/replacement, Window Reg repair).
Let me know whether or not you get them .. they're large files!


----------



## kosmaty80

hi yes I got files thank you guys!!! I will let you know how it go.


----------



## jamboTT

d1will said:


> glad you got it all sorted Nathan! Saved yourself a packet so be proud!
> 
> Jambo don't do it! even £200 is loads! You can do both you windows for £50. You could even take up the offer of the guy offering to do it for a price.
> Good luck


Thanks for the info could do with the PDF
Want to see how easy/hard this is to do


----------



## patbatemn69

Hi Fellas,

My window has just gone. Drivers side. It won't fully close, about 2 inches to go, and i cannot physically pull it up.
Is there a manual wind option at all? Cannot find one on the web or in my owners manual :evil:

Really need to get this up as my car is in the open and it looks like lots of rain is due 

Will be contacting Audi Liverpool about this on Monday. Mine is an 08 Diesel with 42k on the clock.

Gutted!


----------



## minttt

patbatemn69 said:


> Hi Fellas,
> 
> My window has just gone. Drivers side. It won't fully close, about 2 inches to go, and i cannot physically pull it up.
> Is there a manual wind option at all? Cannot find one on the web or in my owners manual :evil:
> 
> Really need to get this up as my car is in the open and it looks like lots of rain is due
> 
> Will be contacting Audi Liverpool about this on Monday. Mine is an 08 Diesel with 42k on the clock.
> 
> Gutted!


There's no manual wind option unfortunately. If you take the inner door trim/pad off and disconnect the electric motor, you may be able to pull the window fully up, and if lucky - it will stay there... as a temporary fix.
There's detail on 'How to' ... for this in the Knowledge base on here, but as you've just joined I'm not sure you'll be able to access.. If you can PM me and send your e-mail I'll reply with a pdf copy of the procedure.. if you can't PM (again, not sure in Newbies get this functionality straight away) , post your e-mail address here.. (you can edit/remove later)..


----------



## patbatemn69

minttt said:


> patbatemn69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Fellas,
> 
> My window has just gone. Drivers side. It won't fully close, about 2 inches to go, and i cannot physically pull it up.
> Is there a manual wind option at all? Cannot find one on the web or in my owners manual :evil:
> 
> Really need to get this up as my car is in the open and it looks like lots of rain is due
> 
> Will be contacting Audi Liverpool about this on Monday. Mine is an 08 Diesel with 42k on the clock.
> 
> Gutted!
> 
> 
> 
> There's no manual wind option unfortunately. If you take the inner door trim/pad off and disconnect the electric motor, you may be able to pull the window fully up, and if lucky - it will stay there... as a temporary fix.
> There's detail on 'How to' ... for this in the Knowledge base on here, but as you've just joined I'm not sure you'll be able to access.. If you can PM me and send your e-mail I'll reply with a pdf copy of the procedure.. if you can't PM (again, not sure in Newbies get this functionality straight away) , post your e-mail address here.. (you can edit/remove later)..
Click to expand...

That's absolute rubbish. I don't think i'll be taking the door trim off myself. Unsure if disconnecting the motor will work, i think it will be the cable, from the grinding noise, meaning i wouldn't be able to pull it up anyway?

Thanks for the offer though, i suppose it will be worth a look.

Have we got a number of people who have had this issue now? I will raise how common this issue is when i speak with Audi on Monday

Cheers!


----------



## minttt

patbatemn69 said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> patbatemn69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Fellas,
> 
> My window has just gone. Drivers side. It won't fully close, about 2 inches to go, and i cannot physically pull it up.
> Is there a manual wind option at all? Cannot find one on the web or in my owners manual :evil:
> 
> Really need to get this up as my car is in the open and it looks like lots of rain is due
> 
> Will be contacting Audi Liverpool about this on Monday. Mine is an 08 Diesel with 42k on the clock.
> 
> Gutted!
> 
> 
> 
> There's no manual wind option unfortunately. If you take the inner door trim/pad off and disconnect the electric motor, you may be able to pull the window fully up, and if lucky - it will stay there... as a temporary fix.
> There's detail on 'How to' ... for this in the Knowledge base on here, but as you've just joined I'm not sure you'll be able to access.. If you can PM me and send your e-mail I'll reply with a pdf copy of the procedure.. if you can't PM (again, not sure in Newbies get this functionality straight away) , post your e-mail address here.. (you can edit/remove later)..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's absolute rubbish. I don't think i'll be taking the door trim off myself. Unsure if disconnecting the motor will work, i think it will be the cable, from the grinding noise, meaning i wouldn't be able to pull it up anyway?
> 
> Thanks for the offer though, i suppose it will be worth a look.
> 
> Have we got a number of people who have had this issue now? I will raise how common this issue is when i speak with Audi on Monday
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

Just sent you that, I'd edit your last post and remove e-mail address for caution if I were you..
Yup, it's a known design fault and increasingly common issue.. cable corrosion/failure.. Audi know about it .. read back through this thread for more details and also at..
http://skiddmark.com/2012/02/running-re ... -2-0-tfsi/

The only thing about disconnecting the motor that might help is that:
- the motor will only drive to a certain torque limit before safety cut-out.
- the motor will only pull the window up via the cable, with the motor disconnected, you might be able to pull it up - despite broken and quite probably mangled cable..

Good luck!


----------



## minttt

and here..
http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/


----------



## Nathan

patbatemn69 said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> patbatemn69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really need to get this up as my car is in the open and it looks like lots of rain is due
> 
> 
> 
> If you take the inner door trim/pad off and disconnect the electric motor, you may be able to pull the window fully up, and if lucky - it will stay there... as a temporary fix.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think i'll be taking the door trim off myself. Unsure if disconnecting the motor will work, i think it will be the cable, from the grinding noise, meaning i wouldn't be able to pull it up anyway?
Click to expand...

If your cable is even half as bad as mine disconnecting the motor (although sound thinking) will not allow you to push the window up, as the damaged section of cable not will pull through the outer cable or wind through the spool. I just cut the cable. The rubbers are so tight the window will stay up. I used cable ties to secure it for over a week before I had time to fix it. Don't be scared to take the door card off, it's two screws. (T25) Chances are you may have to replace a couple of the clips, but there very cheap.


----------



## Phil_RS

Sorry if this has been asked before. However, I was in my mates VW Scirocco at the on Friday and when he removes the key from the ignition both the drivers and passengers doors windows drop in preparation for you getting out of the car.

Does anyones TT do this or can it be setto do it?


----------



## Nathan

Phil_RS said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before. However, I was in my mates VW Scirocco at the on Friday and when he removes the key from the ignition both the drivers and passengers doors windows drop in preparation for you getting out of the car.
> 
> Does anyones TT do this or can it be setto do it?


They all do it I believe, it's a safety feature, because the doors are frameless...


----------



## Phil_RS

Nathan said:


> Phil_RS said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before. However, I was in my mates VW Scirocco at the on Friday and when he removes the key from the ignition both the drivers and passengers doors windows drop in preparation for you getting out of the car.
> 
> Does anyones TT do this or can it be setto do it?
> 
> 
> 
> They all do it I believe, it's a safety feature, because the doors are frameless...
Click to expand...

Cool, cheers


----------



## Nathan

Phil_RS said:


> Nathan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phil_RS said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before. However, I was in my mates VW Scirocco at the on Friday and when he removes the key from the ignition both the drivers and passengers doors windows drop in preparation for you getting out of the car.
> 
> Does anyones TT do this or can it be setto do it?
> 
> 
> 
> They all do it I believe, it's a safety feature, because the doors are frameless...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cool, cheers
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, should've said, with the TT it happens when you pull the handle to open the door.


----------



## patbatemn69

If your cable is even half as bad as mine disconnecting the motor (although sound thinking) will not allow you to push the window up, as the damaged section of cable not will pull through the outer cable or wind through the spool. I just cut the cable. The rubbers are so tight the window will stay up. I used cable ties to secure it for over a week before I had time to fix it. Don't be scared to take the door card off, it's two screws. (T25) Chances are you may have to replace a couple of the clips, but there very cheap.[/quote]

Fortunately it went up after a visit to the supermarket  
I shut the door and the window budged up further, so i opened it and closed it 2 more times and it went fully up.
It'll stay that way now until i manage to get it seen to.

Cheers for advice fellas, will let you know how i get on


----------



## Phil_RS

Nathan said:


> Phil_RS said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nathan said:
> 
> 
> 
> [quote="Phil_RS"Sorry if this has been asked before. However, I was in my mates VW Scirocco at the on Friday and when he removes the key from the ignition both the drivers and passengers doors windows drop in preparation for you getting out of the car.
> 
> Does anyones TT do this or can it be setto do it?
> 
> 
> 
> They all do it I believe, it's a safety feature, because the doors are frameless...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cool, cheers
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, should've said, with the TT it happens when you pull the handle to open the door.[/quote]

Oh, OK, so it doesn't drop when you take the key out of the ignition. It seems like a good feature on the Scirocco to try to prevent damage to the window (i.e. from a passenger not waiting for the window to drop before opening the door)


----------



## Nathan

patbatemn69 said:


> Fortunately it went up after a visit to the supermarket
> 
> I shut the door and the window budged up further, so i opened it and closed it 2 more times and it went fully up.
> It'll stay that way now until i manage to get it seen to.
> 
> Cheers for advice fellas, will let you know how i get on


Exactly what happened to me! I managed to edge it up an itch a time and get it to close, giving me a weeks grace until I had time to take the door card off, and see the full extent of the damage! :?

Do not be tempted to try open it, hoping it'll miraculously be fixed! It won't! :wink:


----------



## Nathan

Phil_RS said:


> Oh, OK, so it doesn't drop when you take the key out of the ignition. It seems like a good feature on the Scirocco to try to prevent damage to the window (i.e. from a passenger not waiting for the window to drop before opening the door)


The TT equivalent is arguably better, open the door and the glass lowers instantly, as you pull the door handle, whether you take the key out the ignition or not.


----------



## jamboTT

had a look at the pdf dont think i can do this myself

anyone in the midlands area who could do this for me willing to pay for there time


----------



## Nathan

jamboTT said:


> had a look at the pdf dont think i can do this myself
> 
> anyone in the midlands area who could do this for me willing to pay for there time


I did it... Seriously, I've never turned a spanner in my life! It's very doable!

That said, I would've loved someone that'd done it before to have held my hand.


----------



## patbatemn69

Update on my 08 TT

Rang Liverpool Audi who tell me it is a known fault and will contribute.
However, despite me telling them it will be the cable, they will have to run a diagnostic check to confirm and this i will have to pay. Just over 50 quid.

next available appointment however is 11th July, which is a pain, but will update again after this date.

I'd advise anyone to ring Audi 1st, it seems they are now accepting it as a fault, or at least my local dealer is.

Cheers


----------



## Nathan

patbatemn69 said:


> Update on my 08 TT
> 
> Rang Liverpool Audi who tell me it is a known fault and will contribute.
> However, despite me telling them it will be the cable, they will have to run a diagnostic check to confirm and this i will have to pay. Just over 50 quid.
> 
> next available appointment however is 11th July, which is a pain, but will update again after this date.
> 
> I'd advise anyone to ring Audi 1st, it seems they are now accepting it as a fault, or at least my local dealer is.
> 
> Cheers


Personally, if I wasn't going to attempt the job myself, I'd purchase a regulator and take it to my trusted local garage and have them do it. It'd still cost less then having Audi do it, even with their 'contribution' to costs.

You don't need to take the car to Audi to have the door card removed and four bolts undone. Audi won't repair the cable, they will replace the whole regulator.

...and your cables still won't be stainless! :?


----------



## patbatemn69

Nathan said:


> patbatemn69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my 08 TT
> 
> Rang Liverpool Audi who tell me it is a known fault and will contribute.
> However, despite me telling them it will be the cable, they will have to run a diagnostic check to confirm and this i will have to pay. Just over 50 quid.
> 
> next available appointment however is 11th July, which is a pain, but will update again after this date.
> 
> I'd advise anyone to ring Audi 1st, it seems they are now accepting it as a fault, or at least my local dealer is.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, if I wasn't going to attempt the job myself, I'd purchase a regulator and take it to my trusted local garage and have them do it. It'd still cost less then having Audi do it, even with their 'contribution' to costs.
> 
> You don't need to take the car to Audi to have the door card removed and four bolts undone. Audi won't repair the cable, they will replace the whole regulator.
> 
> ...and your cables still won't be stainless! :?
Click to expand...

I'm hoping my contribution will be the diagnostic check, nothing else. A marquee brand like this should not suffer from these kind of faults. Its why you pay the extra money. My old Hyundai Coupe ran for 10 years with no problems whatsoever apart from natural wear and tear. Unnaceptable from Audi....


----------



## UlsTTer

Diagnostic??? ... they are ripping you off, just tell them you KNOW what the problem is and you want them to FIX it Stuff the diagnostic ... thats for engine/electrical faults .. Audi are disgraceful !!

Looking more like hundreds of TT's affected by this problem ... a dashpod Mk2 issue in the making :evil:


----------



## markc555

Colboures Audi in Camberley (Surrey) charge a £108 diagnostic fee! I had told them exactly what the problem was i.e. frayed cable.

Their service has been pretty poor since we handed over the cash for the brand new car 5 years ago. My impression of Audi dealers is all style and no substance. Behind the smart smoked glass and stainless steel reception with it's lifestyle magazines and cappuccino machine, there are a couple of village idiots wearing "Teknission" badges (written themselves at playtime) upside down, with their fingers up their nose/ar$e randomly hitting cars with hammers to fix them 

Cheers

Mark


----------



## easty

markc555 said:


> Colboures Audi in Camberley (Surrey) charge a £108 diagnostic fee! I had told them exactly what the problem was i.e. frayed cable.
> 
> Their service has been pretty poor since we handed over the cash for the brand new car 5 years ago. My impression of Audi dealers is all style and no substance. Behind the smart smoked glass and stainless steel reception with it's lifestyle magazines and cappuccino machine, there are a couple of village idiots wearing "Teknission" badges (written themselves at playtime) upside down, with their fingers up their nose/ar$e randomly hitting cars with hammers to fix them
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mark


Ha ha ! so true. im begging to think the same about the products as well as the dealers, all style not much substance !


----------



## blueboy

Drivers window gone today fortunately heard the grind when window down 1inch so managed to get it closed.p##sed off seeing as the wifes 10 year old Peugeot 307's master craftsmens built car has windows that move like silk .As much as I like the car and am happy ? To pay extortionate main dealer service costs I,m afraid Audi have lost a customer when I change car next time.


----------



## splash

Does anybody contact Audi UK after there window goes? When my second window regulator went the dealer was umming and ahhing about a goodwill gesture so i contacted Audi UK and the result was they refunded me completely as i had already paid the dealer as the work had been done.

Cheers


----------



## DiscoStu

N/S reg went at the weekend, a week after the coils failed...man i love this car for keeping my hand in at fixing stuff, i didnt need to look how to fix the window after doing the drivers side one a couple of months ago. It really is a simple job.


----------



## patbatemn69

Oh my, i am absolutely fooking fuming with Audi [smiley=argue.gif]

Diagnostic - over 60 quid

part - over 120 quid

fitting - over 320 quid

They say it is a known issue but as its not part of a recall they cannot do anything about it.
Explained about the forums...the skidmark website but he couldn't view that site on his work browser so i will be taking a printout.

Anyway he did the traditional go out to the back for a ciggie then come back , pretend he has spoken to his manager and will now do the whole lot for 260 quid. So i just said yes, but will have another moan when i go to pick the car up.

That's it now with these cheeky shits. last time i took my car in for a service they tried to tell me my brakes needed changing front and back as they were down to 30%. only £400 quid. Declined, and when i had a puncture fixed i asked a tyre guy to check my brakes. About 70% left on them mate. Audi are worse than any shady backstreet garage.

But i suppose that's all OK as they give you a bottle of water and some mints after they've raped your wallet!

I'm so angry i could feed a kitten to a cashpoint i tell you. Will update later when i go to pick the car up.

My 1st and last Audi for sure!


----------



## patbatemn69

Hi Guys,

When i went to pick up my car i showed the service guy the skidmark article and all he could respond with was that as it's not a known issue in need of a recall (which are only made when the safety of the vehicle is in doubt) then there was nothing he could do.

I'll email Audi Cust services today with the skidmark article and Audi quote in that and see what happens from there.

Car is in for its MOT today, last year they said i needed new brakes which i still haven't got...let's see what they come back with today [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## tt_built_on_a_friday

Bought the car 10 months ago thinking i'd have 4-5 years of motoring bliss with little or no issues.  Oh how wrong was I, it drinks oil like I drink beers @ 5pm on a friday. Really not impressed with Audi in general. My mate is a VW tech and he maintains Skoda is the only decent car in the group. Passenger window is gone so will attempt to fix myself as loathe to give Audi anymore of my hard earned money. MOT later this week, then up for sale and back to BMW asap.


----------



## patbatemn69

patbatemn69 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> When i went to pick up my car i showed the service guy the skidmark article and all he could respond with was that as it's not a known issue in need of a recall (which are only made when the safety of the vehicle is in doubt) then there was nothing he could do.
> 
> I'll email Audi Cust services today with the skidmark article and Audi quote in that and see what happens from there.
> 
> Car is in for its MOT today, last year they said i needed new brakes which i still haven't got...let's see what they come back with today [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Well my car passed its MOT with flying colours. Funnily enough they never mentioned my brakes needed replacing which they did last year. brakes are still the same so what gives Audi?

Still no response from Audi customer services on my email.


----------



## patbatemn69

Ok. Spoke to Audi Cust services as per number in the Skiddmark article and basically he says that article is slightly misleading and the official Audi response is that it is not a big issue in the grand scheme of all of the UK or Europe.

He did say if the passenger window goes then to give him a call.

Funnily enough there was a standard corporate response to the frayed cable etc in that 'I've had 4 years use' out of it. Yep I've spent 4 years using my window, non stop while I've been in the car.

In short - Shocking and i will now be looking at a BMW.

Thanks Audi!


----------



## patbatemn69

Do i laugh or cry??

Passenger window went on me yesterday.......fair wear and tear now Audi?


----------



## minttt

patbatemn69 said:


> Do i laugh or cry??
> 
> Passenger window went on me yesterday.......fair wear and tear now Audi?


I'd go with laugh!
Gives you the leverage (by their previous response)to get Audi to fix it for free and fund the previous repair as well..

Can't believe that Audi still denying it's not a 'fit for purpose' issue... don't think anyone expects 4 yrs out of an electric window is reasonable wear-and-tear..
For all we know they're still replacing failed window regs with the same sub-standard cable system that'll go again in another 3-4 yrs...
So you gotta laugh... (at Audi) :lol:


----------



## -:[KM]:-

To be fair (even though I don't want to)... at least Audi only charge £125 for the unit. 
I've had this rubbish happen on a few cars. LandRover wanted nearly £600 for their unit - it is EXACTLY the same bar being ~6" wider.

Has anyone thought of applying the 'mod' to an existing unit?

Also, if anyone wants a frayed cable unit to replace a damaged passenger side unit, I have one.


----------



## patbatemn69

Ok so they are doing this one for just over 200

Customer services guy called me and asked me if i was happy. Told him No but not much i can do about it.
He sympathises with me but i don't think there is much he can do either...he did mention the more people that report it direct to Audi then the more they will be aware of it.

in all, a shit experience and I'm about 470 lighter because of what i think is a genuine fault on the Audi TT MKII

Don't think there is anything else to do perhaps apart from raise it with motoring pages in magazines and newspapers

Thanks for the help and support fellas!


----------



## MarcF-TT

I hope I'm not another with a window regulator problem, hopefully you can help diagnose this?

The passenger window opens/closes fine. The drivers is at the moment stuck open, it will go all the way down and comes up about 2 inches short of half way and theres a little bit of a noise (like somethings stuck) and it then automatically puts itself back down.

If I use the switch on the drivers door, I can put it up in little bits and down in little bits, but never past this point where it grinds to a stop and then goes all the way back down.

I ran a scan with Vagcom and it came back with a fault: 
01034 - Electric Window Thermal Protection Active; Driver 000 - - - Intermittent

If this is the issue, am I best taking it to Audi Glasgow and asking Audi UK to pay/make a contribution or take it to an independent?


----------



## audikarlos

sounds like the dreaded regulator wire corrosion alright. try not to use window as it may damage the electric motor. negotiate best price with audi and independent and notify audi uk. or do the repair yourself using minttt's instructions for a fraction of any quoted prices. or bring it to cornwall and i'll install a stainless steel wire in place of audi's galvanized wire. cheap(ish).hehe

good luck
karl


----------



## illingworth22

Well it's only a few weeks since I took the TT to Audi Dublin to get the Drivers Door Regulator fixed. I asked them to check the Pax side while it was in and they reported back that it was OK...................................................
Guess what went last night, Passenger Window Regulator. I just can't see the point in paying out another 350 bloody yoyo's to get it fixed. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## patbatemn69

Guys,

I think what we need to do is collate a list of names, audi dealership, costs, age of car etc etc and go to Audi Cust services with this.

The guy i spoke to kind of said in his whole non committal way that it is an issue but if people do not report it to Audi they cannot log it and get a big picture of how wide this issue really is.

I would say the details we would need are

Name
Car model and age and mileage
Audi dealership reported to
proposed cost from Audi
Solution (Did you use audi, fix yourself or an independent)

As well as report to Audi i would also mention we have gone to various magazines, Which etc etc to give them the relevant kick up the arse they need to look into this properly and offer their customers a repair FREE OF CHARGE

There is no way i should be spending 470 quid on what is perceived to be a marquee brand or supposed quality. Vorsprung technik my arse!!

I counted about 24 people with the issue on the 1st four pages of this thread alone. Imagine how many people this has happened to who do not use forums etc.

If people are up for this and there are no volunteers then i will do it )

I've looked on various forums and it appears Audi have had window issues for quite a while.

Cheers


----------



## Templar

patbatemn69 said:


> Guys,
> 
> I think what we need to do is collate a list of names, audi dealership, costs, age of car etc etc and go to Audi Cust services with this.
> 
> The guy i spoke to kind of said in his whole non committal way that it is an issue but if people do not report it to Audi they cannot log it and get a big picture of how wide this issue really is.
> 
> I would say the details we would need are
> 
> Name
> Car model and age and mileage
> Audi dealership reported to
> proposed cost from Audi
> Solution (Did you use audi, fix yourself or an independent)
> 
> As well as report to Audi i would also mention we have gone to various magazines, Which etc etc to give them the relevant kick up the arse they need to look into this properly and offer their customers a repair FREE OF CHARGE
> 
> There is no way i should be spending 470 quid on what is perceived to be a marquee brand or supposed quality. Vorsprung technik my arse!!
> 
> I counted about 24 people with the issue on the 1st four pages of this thread alone. Imagine how many people this has happened to who do not use forums etc.
> 
> If people are up for this and there are no volunteers then i will do it )
> 
> I've looked on various forums and it appears Audi have had window issues for quite a while.
> 
> Cheers


Good idea.

Maybe a Moderator could make it a sticky allowing only the required information to be submitted. What does everyone think to this ?


----------



## illingworth22

I will keep re posting this link for all who don't read the full post!

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

Contact Audi Customer Services and give your Car Details. My (Drivers only went 1 month or so ago) Pax has just gone.

I have also noted that not everyone had completed the poll 
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433
as there is no change since I voted. The Long and the Short is Audi need to have this information before they can accept it as a fault, the only way they can get his info is by being told!


----------



## illingworth22

minttt said:


> illingworth22 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have a read here
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/
> 
> This is a reply from Steve at Fitch Media regarding my problem having a UK Car here in the Republic of Ireland.
> 
> Also have a look at the Window Regulator Poll on this site here viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433&p=2306055#p2306055 and cast your vote!
> 
> As the article on the Fitch site suggests, contact your local Audi Dealer! The more they know the more they may assist! :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> Good Result!
> Although I have it sorted, I've gone ahead and reported the Window Reg failure to Audi Customer Care, Ireland (to have it on record), and have a written acknowlegement back.
> Interesting to note from the linked article that there have been a number of revisions to the Window Reg unit. I wonder if they've actually addressed the problem and improved the spec of the cable? If so, it would be very interesting to know when this took effect, both for new production and for spares.
Click to expand...

Minttt did you ever get a reply from Audi Ireland?


----------



## minttt

Here's the reply I got...

"Good afternoon,

Thank you for your email we received Wednesday 30th May 2012.
Firstly, I am sorry to read of the issue you have experienced with your vehicle. Similar to you, we do not expect any difficulty to arise with your vehicle and share your frustrations when such concerns do occur.

As you point out in your mail, if the repair is completed outside the Audi network we would not be in a position to comment on this. For all correspondence we set up a Customer Care Case and I have done this highlighting the fault you have experienced with your vehicle.

Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any further queries.
Kind regards,
Ciaran Norton

Audi Customer Care Department
Volkswagen Group Ireland Limited"


----------



## minttt

Skidmark website, investigation and communication with Audi is useful.
Existing Window Reg poll is also a good start, but I agree that building up a log of failures through the forum could help force the issue along with Audi... Here you go PatBateman!!! ....


----------



## audikarlos

I think that what PatBateman proposes to do will prompt some reaction from Audi! Such a shame so much effort will be involved collating the data! Pat Bateman for president!


----------



## patbatemn69

illingworth22 said:


> I will keep re posting this link for all who don't read the full post!
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/
> 
> Contact Audi Customer Services and give your Car Details. My (Drivers only went 1 month or so ago) Pax has just gone.
> 
> I have also noted that not everyone had completed the poll
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433
> as there is no change since I voted. The Long and the Short is Audi need to have this information before they can accept it as a fault, the only way they can get his info is by being told!


Yup - Thats exactly what the Audi rep told me. They need to know about it, however if i am being honest i think they know perfectly well there is a problem.


----------



## patbatemn69

minttt said:


> Skidmark website, investigation and communication with Audi is useful.
> Existing Window Reg poll is also a good start, but I agree that building up a log of failures through the forum could help force the issue along with Audi... Here you go PatBateman!!! ....


This is great. If everyone can PM me with these details i will stick them all in a spreadsheet.
When i was in Audi i read one of their brochures and they don't sell that many TT's...so i think they do have a fairly high failure rate.
Also If you have friends who don't use the forums but they have had the issue, if they don't mind then send me their details too.

Cheers Guys -Let's try get a reaction from this.


----------



## MarcF-TT

It might be an idea to set up a Google Docs as read only to the public and write to yourself (patbatemn69) and perhaps a couple of the mods too. This way we can all see how it's filling up rather than it all being behind the scenes.

Will PM you some details over after I get the diagnosis from Glasgow Audi. Took the car into them yesterday and the next time they can see it is Monday.


----------



## patbatemn69

Google doc started. I've put myself and Minttt in so far.

Anyone should be able to add to this, i will check it daily.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 2k3SzZvaFE

Cheers


----------



## MarcF-TT

Kudos to Glasgow Audi and Audi UK. They replaced the broken window regulator free of charge as a goodwill gesture. I'm very happy with the service received, although I did have to leave the car with them for a few days until they could see it.

Perhaps now Audi UK are aware of the issue - I did call them first anyway before bringing the car to Glasgow Audi. Also a thanks to Glasgow Audi for speaking to Audi UK on my behalf.


----------



## patbatemn69

great news 

Can you lob the details in the doc?, we should log all Audi responses, not just the negative ones

Cheers


----------



## MarcF-TT

patbatemn69 said:


> great news
> 
> Can you lob the details in the doc?, we should log all Audi responses, not just the negative ones
> 
> Cheers


It won't let me edit it.


----------



## denTTed

MarcF-TT said:


> patbatemn69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> great news
> 
> Can you lob the details in the doc?, we should log all Audi responses, not just the negative ones
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> It won't let me edit it.
Click to expand...

Nor me...


----------



## patbatemn69

Try now gents - Should be good to go


----------



## denTTed

Added my bits...


----------



## MarcF-TT

denTTed said:


> Added my bits...


Likewise.

*Add your Window Regulator resolutions here so we can build something meaningful to send to Audi UK:*
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 2k3SzZvaFE


----------



## Bennyboy76

Sadly I joined this not-so-elite club this week. (57 plate, 34k miles) Drivers window failed three days ago. The car needed servicing anyway so I called Leeds Audi to book it in and made them aware of the window issue. Droppped the car off and asked them to call me before incurring any expense to repair the window.

They called and quoted c£350 for the window. At this stage, I pointed out that I knew it was a known issue, that there were several threads on this forum (this one alone with 250 comments) and also the Skiddmark article. Pointed out that I knew contibutions were being made and I would expect one as there is a precedent being set by dealers.

Interestingly, the chap then reviewed my history with them and noted that I'd bough the car from them, and had had every service and MOT done with them. He called me back and confirmed that they would replace the window regulator and fit free of charge.

Fair's fair - this was a great example of them doing the right thing. I'm normally at the front of the queue to moan about poor service but on this issue, and interestingly on another issue in November of last year, I can't fault Leeds Audi. Nice to be able to give some positive feedback on a dealer for a change. One thing's for sure, if I do get another Audi, Leeds have today won my future business by the way they handled this issue.

My advice to all of you is to mention that precedents are being set elsewhere with some dealers offering contributions and therefore you would expect to be treated in the same way.

The ironic thing? I actually wanted to contact Audi UK to say well done on some great service. But I can't find their contact details anywhere on the site. :wink:

Good luck guys and girls.


----------



## patbatemn69

Bennyboy76 said:


> Sadly I joined this not-so-elite club this week. (57 plate, 34k miles) Drivers window failed three days ago. The car needed servicing anyway so I called Leeds Audi to book it in and made them aware of the window issue. Droppped the car off and asked them to call me before incurring any expense to repair the window.
> 
> They called and quoted c£350 for the window. At this stage, I pointed out that I knew it was a known issue, that there were several threads on this forum (this one alone with 250 comments) and also the Skiddmark article. Pointed out that I knew contibutions were being made and I would expect one as there is a precedent being set by dealers.
> 
> Interestingly, the chap then reviewed my history with them and noted that I'd bough the car from them, and had had every service and MOT done with them. He called me back and confirmed that they would replace the window regulator and fit free of charge.
> 
> Fair's fair - this was a great example of them doing the right thing. I'm normally at the front of the queue to moan about poor service but on this issue, and interestingly on another issue in November of last year, I can't fault Leeds Audi. Nice to be able to give some positive feedback on a dealer for a change. One thing's for sure, if I do get another Audi, Leeds have today won my future business by the way they handled this issue.
> 
> My advice to all of you is to mention that precedents are being set elsewhere with some dealers offering contributions and therefore you would expect to be treated in the same way.
> 
> The ironic thing? I actually wanted to contact Audi UK to say well done on some great service. But I can't find their contact details anywhere on the site. :wink:
> 
> Good luck guys and girls.


Great news! I just wish Audi were this consistent throughout the country 

Only got about 6 people so far, come on guys there was about 20 of you at the start of thhis thread - Here's hoping you are still reading


----------



## audikarlos

i've now added my details

karl


----------



## Razza

A slight change of direction from relying on Audi to repair the regulators...

I finally got around to having a go at the replacements using the E-Croft trade kit and MinTT's instructions, so just an insight into my experiences for those interested:

1. After spending a good 30 mins with a £10 body panel multi-trim tool from Wilco which turned out to be too flimsy to use as a lever to remove the door panel, I resorted to using my trusty builder's/pry/utility bar covered in masking tape. It did the trick.

2. I completely removed the door cavity pressure sensor to avoid any potential damage.

3. The next trickiest stage was compressing the regulator springs. There's a ratchet mechanism that relies on the wire being loose in order to compress the spring fully. Very fiddly to get it into position and I used a G-clamp to hold it in place as gaffer tape just wasn't strong enough. I think my cable measurements were right on the limit - hence the force required

4. Adjusting the glass took some time because you need to close the door, use the window switches but you don't want to fix the door panel on. (It was easier for the passenger door as you could control the window from the driver's window control.)

5. I kinda pulled the second door panel off the clips with my brutish hands and only a little prying with the utility bar. 30 mins down to 5 mins. Not bad savings there.

6. I bought these clips for £4 (search for POLO 02 10 16V DOOR TRIM PANEL CLIPS X10 GENUINE NEW on fleaBay) matching the ones on the car

7. Total time taken: 6 hours of which more than 4 hours was taken by door #1.

8. After fully assembling door #1 I noticed I had pinched the door release cable with the door panel somehow, causing the lever not to return to the flush position. How annoying. Bought another set of clips and will resolve that sometime soon.

So overall, I'm pretty happy with the job given the damaged cable looks completely screwed up - one strand had pulled away to create a tennis-ball sized mess. Could have been really expensive to repair had it damaged the motor or pulleys! This is a fiddly repair to do and taking your time over it is essential.

As I purchased the trade kit with just TT relevant components, I now have all parts plus almost-new crimping tool needed to repair 7x TT regulators. Would anyone be interested in it before passing it on to the next person? Open to PMs...


----------



## patbatemn69

Just a bump - Currently have 8 people who have put their details in the google doc. We need a few more before i can approach Audi.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... vaFE#gid=0

Cheers


----------



## davek9

Just added my details, we need more than the 10 currently listed to get Audi to accept this, come on everyone who has had this problem register this now :roll:


----------



## patbatemn69

We have 10, but i would prefer to get everyone else on board. I think we would be closer to 30 then


----------



## Ridgmont61

Is there a train of thought that the Window Regulator due is failing to overuse due to the windows lowering slightly whenever the doors are opened and then they return to their original up position?

Obviously this should not be classed as overuse as it is exactly how they are intended to work - but it adds to the amount of work that they do.


----------



## illingworth22

I will be putting up my Info at the weekend......! What information is required, my work firewall wont let me see the Google Doc!


----------



## Razza

The up/down operation results from a very small movement in the pulleys - probably less than 1/8 of a rotation but as it's in the same place, the same small stretch of cable is being 'exercised' time and time again. However, that said, the cable relies on the galvanised coating and as it will only be chafing against a nylon pulley lightly smeared with silicone grease, it should last. Plus we should also see a majority of driver side regulators failing - mine was the passenger side. Edit: Oh. The spreadsheet confirms I'm in the minority here...

My single unravelled strand was covered in a muddy sludge - i.e. generated by rust plus moisture. It's going to happen at some point in time on anything galvanised and depends on the thickness of the plating. Once a minute amount of corrosion has set in, the steel will deform, expose non-galvanised parts, and become brittle, accelerating towards the strand snapping. I reckon it's down to the quality of the cable used.


----------



## Hark

Mom just had hers done. Independent did it for about £150.


----------



## patbatemn69

illingworth22 said:


> I will be putting up my Info at the weekend......! What information is required, my work firewall wont let me see the Google Doc!


NAME	CAR MAKE/MODEL	YEAR/MONTH OF REGISTRATION	DRIVERS SIDE FAIL DATE	MILEAGE	PASSENGER SIDE FAIL DATE	MILEAGE	AUDI DEALER NOTIFIED	RESPONSE/CHARGE	SELF/INDEPENDANT OR DEALER REPAIRS


----------



## patbatemn69

Hark said:


> Mom just had hers done. Independent did it for about £150.


Could you add it to the doc mate if you haven't already? Plus if your mum doesn't mind!


----------



## illingworth22

I did mine this weekend..... [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] Well I must say it was very rewarding once complete!

The wire (this reminds me of a Tom & Jerry cartoon, Jerry plucks one of Tom's whiskas and it twangs) only one strand of my cable had broken, but it was still enough to catch on the wire guide tubes. The system works similar to a Bike Brake/Gear cable and where the wire part is exposed is where it rusts...... then TWANG!

The measurements need to be there or abouts but it is not hard to do..... you can still adjust the windows position with an Alan key. The one thing I would RECOMMEND is to mark the position of both window glass holders on the front and back frame, I used a hack saw and scratched the paint off........ I know I should have used something like Tip Ex.

One other tip............ DO NOT Crimp ANY OF THE MID OR END STOPS ON before threading cable thru the outer tube! Oops 

One last tip...... (Especially if your doing the Passenger Door) Take TAKE PLENTY OF PICTURES! The Drivers Door is in all the photos and it gets difficult when your knackered to try to reverse Drivers one to the passenger one :x

All in all not too bad a job to do!

And for the last but a few Poster.... "Is it because the Window goes up and down on opening or Over Use of the window"
it is just down to shitty cable that rusts. I left out some of the replacement cable last night in the rain and not a sign of rust can be seen on the new cable!


----------



## conneem

I will add my details to the doc later.

My drivers window crapped Sunday before last when I was out for a little weekend drive. It was a nice warm day so I had the windows down but I came upon a short shower so tried to put up the windows. Passenger fine but half way up the drivers made a bad crunching sound and stalled.

I pulled over as soon as I could to see if I could get the window up, it would go down and back up to half was but keep crunching and stalling but after a few tries it finally closed fully.

I have read through the very helpful how to's and decided to give it a go myself but instead of buying the cable kit I decided to have a browse of the German eBay to see if I could find replacement kits.

I found this window repair kit and decided to give it a go.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Audi-TT-8J-Roads ... 319wt_1159

It's slightly different to the oem part, if you look at the large white spring tensioner assembly for example. Also the mid stop1 to midstop2 lenght & midstop 2 to end stop lenghts are about 5mm shorter than the how to guide in the knowledgebase.

Overall it looks ok, hard to tell if the cable is any better than the audi one.

However upon fitting it (which took longer than I expected and my finger are still tingling), when I checked the operation of the window there was still a slight crunching sound. I checked and refitted it a few time and I think sourced the problem to the grooves of the central spool being somewhat worn from the tangle audi cable I removed. So it looks like I may have to get Audi to replace the whole thing. 

Or, Aberdeen Audi seem to realise the problem as they are selling the regulator (inc. spool section, window carriers ect.) and save paying a dealer for the labour.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Audi- ... 500wt_1180


----------



## robbie_boy

Both mine were fixed by the first owner while still under warranty THANK GOD lol


----------



## patbatemn69

Arse...washed the car today and now there is a leak coming in from the passenger window..looks like another call to Audi is going in. Only happened since the window was repaired the other week. :x

BTW - Please Bump the doc, still not got everyone in who contributed to this thread


----------



## illingworth22

Just a note to say this, I left a piece of the Steel Wire from the E-Croft trade kit and after a full week out on the garden table with Wind, Humidity and Sun there is NO RUST on it what so ever  
I now wonder if the Audi Repair I had done in May uses this new type of cable or did they use the old CRAPPY Audi cable. Anyone know?


----------



## Jamo8

Details added to Doc [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## patbatemn69

We are up to 18 people now guys!!


----------



## Razza

> I left a piece of the Steel Wire from the E-Croft trade kit and after a full week out on the garden table with Wind, Humidity and Sun there is NO RUST on it what so ever


As the wire supplied by E-Croft is stainless steel made of steel/chromium and not galvanised steel, I wouldn't expect it rust at all, unless it's a poor quality stainless steel.


----------



## patbatemn69

We are now up to 21 people.

I'd like a few more as we defiantly had more that 21 people in this thread, however it is enough to make a statement to Audi.
I'm away for this weekend so will do this at some point next week.

If anyone has any pointers for me to make notes of in my covering letter that would be great.

BTW - all cars affected so far seem to be from 2006-8, So either it was fixed after that or noone with a car from 2009 onwards has had it break on them.....yet.

Cheers


----------



## audikarlos

Interesting observation. I reckon they've addressed the issue and improved the wire or the mechanism. Does not mean it is not worth pursuing! There are a lot of tt's out there. Please keep going Bateman!


----------



## illingworth22

Razza said:


> I left a piece of the Steel Wire from the E-Croft trade kit and after a full week out on the garden table with Wind, Humidity and Sun there is NO RUST on it what so ever
> 
> 
> 
> As the wire supplied by E-Croft is stainless steel made of steel/chromium and not galvanised steel, I wouldn't expect it rust at all, unless it's a poor quality stainless steel.
Click to expand...

Update...... My piece of the e-Croft steel has been outside on my back wall for 4 weeks now, we have had hot days (a few) and Rainy Days (bloody Loads) there is not a single speck of rust on the replacement cable!!!


----------



## illingworth22

patbatemn69 said:


> We are now up to 21 people.
> 
> I'd like a few more as we defiantly had more that 21 people in this thread, however it is enough to make a statement to Audi.
> I'm away for this weekend so will do this at some point next week.
> 
> If anyone has any pointers for me to make notes of in my covering letter that would be great.
> 
> BTW - all cars affected so far seem to be from 2006-8, So either it was fixed after that or noone with a car from 2009 onwards has had it break on them.....yet.
> 
> Cheers


I seem to remember reading somewhere that Audi had changed the wire they used around the end of 2008, so it will be worth seeing is any 09 cars have the fault and if they do what month and year were they produced!


----------



## minttt

Great job Patbatemn69!!
Here's some suggestions for covering letter.....

Dear Sir/Madam,
As a company, Audi markets itself with the tagline 'Vorsprung durch Technik' - 'Progress through Technology'. In many aspects, we could perhaps agree that Audi work towards this principle. However, here is a blatant example where the opposite seems to be the case.

The Mk2 TT was sold, until at least 2009, with Window regulator systems that included cables that were not-fit-for-purpose. The cable used was galvanised steel cable (not stainless steel cable, as would seem appropriate), which over time suffers from corrosion. As a result, we have many records of Mk2 TT window regulator systems that have failed - because of cable corrosion (and reason to believe that many more will suffer failures in future). So root cause can be put down to incorrect specification (by Audi) of the window regulator system, specifically the material specification for the cable. There is also evidence that similar failures affected other VW/Audi models (with similar window regulator mechanisms) in the past.

This is not a high-tech or innovative window regulator system, so it appears that it was a basic engineering failing that led to the problem. Hardly an example of progress through technology?

It is very disappointing that Audi released and sold the Mk2 TT with this known design fault.
It is even more disappointing that Audi's response to the resulting failures has been varied and generally very unhelpful. In a small number of cases Audi dealers have accepted responsibility and carried out repairs, but in most cases the response seems to have been to charge the customer most/or all of the full retail cost of replacement of the window regulator .. typically in the region of £200.

Given the accumulated evidence, we would like an official Audi response to address:
-	Acceptance of the underlying design flaw.
-	Commitment to repair any existing/future window regulator failures at no cost to customer.
-	Commitment to compensate customers who have had to fund/repair window regulator failures at their own expense, either through Audi Dealer network, independent agents, or themselves.

Thanks for your attention to this matter and awaiting your positive response,
Etc. etc.


----------



## illingworth22

He's good! But I'd say closer to 300£ mine was €460 with 110 discount!


----------



## patbatemn69

Guys,

Here is the draft. Any further feedback before i send? It's a bit of a palava trying to find an actual email addy to send anything to..all contact details usually done via the website template

Cheers

Dear Sir/Madam,

As a company, Audi markets itself with the tagline 'Vorsprung durch Technik' - 'Progress through Technology'. 
In many aspects, we could perhaps agree that Audi work towards this principle. However, here is a blatant example where the opposite seems to be the case.

The Mk2 TT was sold, until at least 2009, with Window regulator systems that included cables that were not-fit-for-purpose. The cable used was galvanised steel cable (not stainless steel cable, as would seem appropriate), which over time suffers from corrosion. As a result, we have many records of Mk2 TT window regulator systems that have failed - because of cable corrosion (and reason to believe that many more will suffer failures in future). So root cause can be put down to incorrect specification (by Audi) of the window regulator system, specifically the material specification for the cable. There is also evidence that similar failures affected other VW/Audi models (with similar window regulator mechanisms) in the past.

This is not a high-tech or innovative window regulator system, so it appears that it was a basic engineering failing that led to the problem. Hardly an example of progress through technology?

It is very disappointing that Audi released and sold the Mk2 TT with this known design fault.
It is even more disappointing that Audi's response to the resulting failures has been varied and generally very unhelpful. In a small number of cases Audi dealers have accepted responsibility and carried out repairs, but in most cases the response seems to have been to charge the customer most/or all of the full retail cost of replacement of the window regulator .. typically in the region of £200.

Please find attached a spreadsheet containing 20 example cases listed on the Audi TT forum for the UK
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=248610

Please bear in mind, that although you may think that 20 documented cases out of all the TT's sold is quite a small percentage, this does not take into account the following

- The amount of people on the forum who have yet to enter their details
- The amount of UK TT owners who are not aware of this forum who have had the same problem
- The amount of TT owners across Europe and the rest of the world who have had this issue but not the platform to voice their opinion
- Finally the amount of people that will have had the issue but not used a official Audi dealership/repair centre

Given the accumulated evidence, we would like an official Audi response to address:
- Acceptance of the underlying design flaw.
- A response to the fact this seems limited to TT's from 06-08 according to our spreadsheet, and if this is internally noted as an accepted design flaw and been rectified accordingly in TT's 09 and above
- A response to the inconsistent responses & fee's quoted from official Audi dealerships
- Commitment to repair any existing/future window regulator failures at no cost to customer.
- Commitment to compensate customers who have had to fund/repair window regulator failures at their own expense, either through Audi Dealer network, independent agents, or themselves.

Thanks for your attention to this matter and awaiting your positive response,

Best Regards

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/ user groups and Audi enthusiasts


----------



## audikarlos

Will be interesting to hear if you get a response to this.
We'll wait and see. I reckon all tt's made in the period 06-08 will be affected. Sooner or later. Unless somewhere with no air humidity like California or Dubai... 
We just have to prove it. And time will. Stay with it.

Well done Pat


----------



## illingworth22

Pat,

There is an e-mail address.... Ill have a look and edit this post to add it!

EDIT,,,,,,,,,,,,

Here is the article and an e-mail address

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

the Contact is Jon Zammett and his e-mail address is [email protected]

Quote from the Article......................

Many thanks to: Rob McDonald, Jon Zammett, Robin Davies and David Ingram of Audi UK. You can reach the Audi UK Customer Services team by calling 0800 699888 or emailing [email protected]. Please quote your name, address and car registration in any email correspondence.


----------



## patbatemn69

Added link and a reference to it in the mail. Fingers crossed fellas.

TBH i'm not even fussed about getting money back, i do want it resolved for all those other people who have yet to experience the issue. Just imagine how many people who are driving around with a bust window because they can't be bothered getting it fixed!

Cheers


----------



## davek9

Many thanks for your work on this, hopefully Audi will take notice, please let me know if you require any further info, thanks again David


----------



## Jamo8

Nice work Pat for getting this together [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## TT_loon

Hi Folks,

New boy and joiner to this Forum, I have added my troubles / repair details to the online Document. (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... 2k3SzZvaFE) and I logged into the survey poll: 
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=270433&start=30

I have a MkII TT (late 2006) 3.2L Coupe, (32k miles).

In April 2011 the Passenger door window regulator "went" during a trip to Cornwall down from my native NE Scotland! Called the Local Audi dealer in Cornwall (Truro?), was told the parts would be avail/repair in 3 days. As it was I due to return home I got the car booked into my local dealer in Aberdeen. 
It was a noisy +500mile trip with cardboard jammed in the window, I can tell you!
Dealer Repair was c.£350, out of warranty, Sods law, etc.... No mention of this fault reporting back to Audi UK, nor an offer of any discount.

Then, this week, Sep 2012 the Driver's side "went" during a week of TT woe. 
My battery was flat (my fault, I know; anyone had any experience of Audi battery life? - Audi Manual says change it after 5yrs) 
The Recovery fella seized the opportunity during the jump-start to quote the window repair & done by the next day. 
Indy Repair Cost: Parts £120+Labour£55+VAT = £248. And done within 24hrs.

The week before my TT had the long-life 30K mile service (Haldex oil change, Stronic Gearbx oil change, brake fluid change, sparkplugs, etc etc etc) which left me £815 lighter. 
This is not the only fault I've had with this TT and I'm loathe to keep shelling out to the Dealer :evil: - so went Indy repair this time.

If only I had known of this Forum & this repair topic beforehand.... :roll:

Really impressed by the info and repair procedures / photos / tales posted on here [smiley=book2.gif]

Keep up the good work, folks.

Cheers.


----------



## patbatemn69

Just a quick update to let you all know i have had no response from Audi as of yet.


----------



## illingworth22

patbatemn69 said:


> Just a quick update to let you all know i have had no response from Audi as of yet.


If anyone has read the Skidmark article the Journalist Guy spoke to the Audi Guy and I was told to expect a call or some contact. Guess What............... 4 months later and "Sweet Feck All", I now know what Audi thinks of its Customers!


----------



## patbatemn69

I'll give it to the end of this week before contacting them again


----------



## moonytt

Hi my mk2 roadster has just turned 5,guess what? it's going back to the dealer today.WINDOW packed up,looks like a 12 mile drive in the rain!!!!


----------



## -:[KM]:-

Don't worry moony.... Nottingham Audi have plenty in stock - not that it's a known issue or anything!!
If you need a hand - give me a shout.


----------



## chitz51

Hi, only had my "2.0 tttfsi one week and yes the window regulator mechanism has failed. Cable has a birds nest in it. Bought a new mechanism this morning from Doncaster Audi and 10 door clips came to £129.90. Explained the problem to the spares assistant he was not aware of any problem. I am in the process of fitting this mechanism and as I do not have a manual yet I wonder what the front and rear torque figures are for the screws which hold the glass in place. I previously had an Alfa Romeo GTV 3.0 24v for the last 8 years which required buckets full of maintenance I hope the tt is not the same.


----------



## patbatemn69

Guys please add to the google doc. I aim to re-send to Audi again in a few days, perhaps cc'ing Watchdog or some other body will prompt them to respond.

Cheers


----------



## illingworth22

patbatemn69 said:


> Guys please add to the google doc. I aim to re-send to Audi again in a few days, perhaps cc'ing Watchdog or some other body will prompt them to respond.
> 
> Cheers


What about "What Car"? I tried but with no luck or reply!


----------



## Canis

I have to admit I haven't had this issue, but owning a 2007 TT I am interested in the outcome as it is likely to affect me in some way before the end of my ownership of the car. I just have a few thoughts that you may want to apply to your follow up...

We now know that since 2008/2009 Audi changed the offending part to one that doesn't so far have this issue. As the essential design of the component hasn't changed, just the material composition, this would not have been done just because. This implies a known design issue with a remedy applied by the change of material. This is enough of an implicaion to show that Audi had concerns around the previous device build and so should bear responsibility for this flaw. (Someone of a legal mind may be able to word this better but I think I get the point across).

This next one is where you are going to have a problem. If Audi admit they know there is a design flaw and accept responsibility for that then they will have to replace (at the request of each individual owner) the parts whether they have failed or not. What I think everyone is after is for Audi to take financial responsibility in terms of a failure (both in the past or the future) of these parts. It is highly unlikely that Audi will ever admit in writing to a design flaw or any responsibility around it, mainly as their legal and PR departments will all have annurisms at the thought of it as this would then mean it is a public acknowledgement of a flaw in an Audi car (hence damaging the brand). You may get more of a positive response if you ask for Audi (as a good will gesture to the owners of their cars to help build brand loyalty) to allow a program to be put into place to replace these parts free of charge in the case of failure. No admission of guilt or fault on their behalf, no implication of such, and above all a lot less ost to Audi than having to replace all of them, just a good customer relations policy to hopefully bring the customers back when they replace their current cars.

This may require a softening of position in what you are asking for, but it may also work to everyones favour. Make it a two pronged approach in what you want. Firstly, if Audi agree to the good will gesture then it makes the problem go away, we as owners will all be happy and everything in Audi land will be sweetness and light again and we will go back to loving our cars and shouting their praises without that little voice in the back of our heads wondering if the window will wind up again this time. Secondly you state that if Audi are not willing to converse around this good will gesture then we as owners will be left with no option other than to make our complaint (as a group complaint) to the OFT and other regulatory bodies. Make sure that they are aware that if the complaint goes in we will use our rights to publicise the complaint as far as we possibly can. This means that even if we don't win on the complaint the damage is already done to the Audi reputation as people will remember the complaint being made, not the outcome (and most large companies are more than aware of this). This approach gives you bargaining power and gives Audi a way out of the situation without taking any damage to their reputation (no recall needed, no big advertising campaign or press coverage aka the Toyota recalls) and can even be given a positive public image spin of "there isn't a design flaw, but we are not happy that our customers were not totally satisfied so we are putting it right anyway".

This approach worked some years ago against a manufacturer of a 4x4 where the arm that supported the front electric windows was too weak and would bend and break after a number of years use (on average about 4 years so outside of the warranty that was available). Despite the fact that this 4x4 was not made by the car company involved (was built by another manufacturer, brought in and reskinned by them) they were more willing to do a customer good will program than to ever admit they had made a mistake in the first place. This in the end will give everyone here what they want (free replacement if the part fails) without Audi ever having to loose face in admitting a problem.


----------



## moonytt

-:[KM said:


> :-":3oemn9bv]Don't worry moony.... Nottingham Audi have plenty in stock - not that it's a known issue or anything!!
> If you need a hand - give me a shout.


 Thanks for offer,all sorted. Took car to Sheffield Audi were bought from,changed regulator while i waited,just happened to have some in stock,could not fault the service though.Just waiting to see how long before passenger side goes.


----------



## moonytt

Forgot to mention repair was done under warranty.Audi Used Approved.


----------



## illingworth22

moonytt said:


> Forgot to mention repair was done under warranty.Audi Used Approved.


I asked Audi North Dublin to check the Passenger Side while the Driver's Door was being done..... "ALL IS OK" they said, 4 weeks later what went? [smiley=bigcry.gif] :evil:


----------



## audikarlos

Interesting points made by Canis. I agree we don't need to rub anyone's face in this mess.
Just that Audi replace faulty units with the new higher spec units at a very reasonable cost. Ideally for free but not more than cost of labour...though I'm sure PatBateman's correspondence with Audi reflect this and our willingness to compromise. We do after all really like the cars.


----------



## patbatemn69

He does make good points but i can't go back now.

TBH i'm not bothered about getting my money back, i am bothered about every person who this has yet to happen to, and don't forget just because it hasn't occurred yet on 2009 models doesn't mean it wont in the next year .

To not even respond is poor customer service, even if it is to give a bullshit excuse. I can promise this is my 1st and last Audi. A fabulous motor, but things like this should not happen at all when you pay for this kind of prestige (perceived at least) brand. A Kia (sorry Kia owners) or something yes, but not Audi.


----------



## moonytt

illingworth22 said:


> moonytt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to mention repair was done under warranty.Audi Used Approved.
> 
> 
> 
> I asked Audi North Dublin to check the Passenger Side while the Driver's Door was being done..... "ALL IS OK" they said, 4 weeks later what went? [smiley=bigcry.gif] :evil:
Click to expand...

 Will be interesting to see how long mine lasts,will let you know.


----------



## player2301

started car this morning and window was crunching !!! and stopped half way then decided to tease me for ages by nearly getting to the top but then quickly retracting again GRRRRRRRRRRRR [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]

So So So angry gonna take it to an Indy garage tomorrow and pick it back up Monday / Tuesday hopefully fixed never to break again lol

Just hope it isnt gonna be ridiculous amounts of money to fix :?

car is 2007 2.0 tfsi


----------



## moonytt

Mine would have cost £206 if no warranty,it should be fair bit less at indy,good look.


----------



## player2301

Bit of an update the whole part from AUDI is now £106 !!

My indi garage called me today  vthey just gotta refit now and hopefully ill have it back later wohooooo missed her loads !

Only had this go wrong in 6 months of ownership so hoping this is the only thing lol fingers crossed


----------



## player2301

Just picked car up with a very reasonable bill of £192.22

Took a few pics of the problem gerrrrrrr :twisted:










closer inspection shows the wire starting to come undone and get caught around the pulley

















Oh well all done now and im happy again !


----------



## patbatemn69

Hi Player,

Can you add your details to the doc please?

Cheers


----------



## TT-driver

I was in my driver's door today and discovered no rust on the metal cables. Should I have greased them in order to prevent corrosion? Or does the system require friction of the cable?

There was rust under the paintwork inside the door though [smiley=bigcry.gif] . The wax underneath the seam had hardened up and from the seam rust is creeping up.


----------



## minttt

TT-driver said:


> I was in my driver's door today and discovered no rust on the metal cables. Should I have greased them in order to prevent corrosion? Or does the system require friction of the cable?
> 
> There was rust under the paintwork inside the door though [smiley=bigcry.gif] . The wax underneath the seam had hardened up and from the seam rust is creeping up.


System doesn't require friction, just tension.
You could grease cables to try and slow down corrosion, but a lot of the cable failures seem to happen on the section of cable that runs in and out of the regulator central unit (see photos posted here) - so greasing the exposed cable mightn't help much.
Also caution (as per e-crofting repair kit instructions):
Use only silicone grease to lubricate the regulator (wire reel, wires, track) as oil-based grease reacts with some plastic regulator components making them brittle.

Rust inside the door is surprising..


----------



## TT-driver

Thanks minttt.

Yeah the rust is worrisome. Will it come come out before the perforation rust warranty expires, or shortly after?


----------



## patbatemn69

Perhaps this is why Audi will not own up to it being a known problem :lol:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-19894322


----------



## shogbert

Another failed driver side regulator here...
I've added my name to the sheet!

I've taken the regulator out and I've ordered the repair kit for both sides from e-crofting.
If the driver side repair goes well, I'll get the passenger side repaired too.

It looks relatively straightforward.

In fact - I've been getting a horrible greasy mark up the window for about 6 months - so this gives me chance to clean it all up too!

Ian.


----------



## Steev

Happened to me too - I know I don't post here much but I will add myself to the spreadsheet.


----------



## shogbert

3 hours later with the repair kit, my window is fixed - saving me about £300.

The main time for me was spent trying to tension the cable - very fiddly and difficult with everything covered in grease!
After compressing the springs, I thought the tension would release slightly once the cable was in place on the pulleys, however both tension springs remained fully compressed.
I guess their only function is to take up the tension as the cable stretches over time.

Onto the passenger side later this week - this will be much quicker.


----------



## Templar

Hi All,
Just an idea here. 
If owners pop their door panels off to have a look at the condition of the reg cables and they look in decent condition around the wheel area (a little surface rust should not be an issue) or if you've had new one/s fitted recently, then it may be worth spraying several coats of Molykote D321R anti-friction spray to the suspect areas of the cables and wheels.
This product will penetrate the strands of the cable, seal it and has excellent resistance to water wash off as well as high anti wear properties.
We use this at work on repairs to Tornado aircraft units. so i know its a good product and I have seen this spray for £6 + P&P on Fleabay.

This is Silmid's web page with more info if it interests you:
http://www.silmid.com/Products/Lubrican ... 00400.aspx

P.s If you use this product, please be aware of any safety precautions that may be applicable.

Jase.


----------



## Essexaviator

This is not just an audi problem. It is vag - as is the water pump and v beltissue. i had two mark one a3s and had two window regs go on each car during my ownership.
The tt has not had a fault yet but I expect one.
Steve


----------



## patbatemn69

I have re-sent the mail originally sent on the 9th September with an updated version of the tracker Doc.

TBH i do not expect a response.


----------



## johnak1983

Have added my name to the spreadsheet 'patbatemn69' Posted.

Had my Passenger window go about 1 month after owning the car, then my Drivers about a month after that!!!
Replaced both using the guides on here, and about 1hr of work.
Got both from same guy on ebay, cost about 135quid free P&P.

Not been the best first impression!!


----------



## illingworth22

The plain and simple fact is Audi don't give a Bollix (it's an Irish word I have picked up and I am sure you all know what it means)  
Skidmark actually spoke to the Audi guy and I was told that they May contact me...... I am still waiting! But why would they phone? They sell millions of these cars and a few little piddly plebs who post on the forum are not going to worry them too much! "Vor Sprung Complacency.com" could be the new strap line!


----------



## niko_kup

My cable also snapped last week. Ordered a repair kit from German ebay seller.
Assembled the regulator with new cable yesterday. Otherwise everything went ok but i noticed that window carriers won´t hit the bumb-stops at the same time. Is this going to be a problem? I think I can get the window leveled though, since there are adjustment bolts at the bottom of the carriers. 
Would be great to get confirmation from someone here, before i go to refit the regulator to the car.

Sorry for my presumably bad english


----------



## Russ 182

Had mine go 7 hours after buying the car. lol

The garage I bought the car from are going to send one in the post so I can fit it myself. This was at my request as I couldn't be bothered to take a day of work and a 3 hour round trip to get them to fit it  Everything I've read indicates it shouldn't take any more than a couple of hours to replace myself.


----------



## illingworth22

niko_kup said:


> My cable also snapped last week. Ordered a repair kit from German ebay seller.
> Assembled the regulator with new cable yesterday. Otherwise everything went ok but i noticed that window carriers won´t hit the bumb-stops at the same time. Is this going to be a problem? I think I can get the window leveled though, since there are adjustment bolts at the bottom of the carriers.
> Would be great to get confirmation from someone here, before i go to refit the regulator to the car.
> 
> Sorry for my presumably bad english


Mark to fully up position before dis-assembling the regulator, this way you will know what position they need to be put back to!


----------



## illingworth22

Russ 182 said:


> Had mine go 7 hours after buying the car. lol
> 
> The garage I bought the car from are going to send one in the post so I can fit it myself. This was at my request as I couldn't be bothered to take a day of work and a 3 hour round trip to get them to fit it  Everything I've read indicates it shouldn't take any more than a couple of hours to replace myself.


The easy part is what you have to do...... the had bit is taking the regulator apart and re assembling!


----------



## minttt

niko_kup said:


> My cable also snapped last week. Ordered a repair kit from German ebay seller.
> Assembled the regulator with new cable yesterday. Otherwise everything went ok but i noticed that window carriers won´t hit the bumb-stops at the same time. Is this going to be a problem? I think I can get the window leveled though, since there are adjustment bolts at the bottom of the carriers.
> Would be great to get confirmation from someone here, before i go to refit the regulator to the car.
> 
> Sorry for my presumably bad english


I don't think you should use the adjust features on the carriers.
(Refer back to Page 14 of these posts for some relevant feedback on this)
To level the window use the fact that only one of the 2 clamps locates to window/glass in a fixed position (through the hole).
The 2nd clamp just grips the glass in whatever position it is when you tighten it. Adjust the glass to level with this clamp not fully tightened. When level, do final tighten on both clamps.

Otherwise, don't think it will matter which bump-stop hits first!


----------



## niko_kup

minttt said:


> I don't think you should use the adjust features on the carriers.
> (Refer back to Page 14 of these posts for some relevant feedback on this)
> To level the window use the fact that only one of the 2 clamps locates to window/glass in a fixed position (through the hole).
> The 2nd clamp just grips the glass in whatever position it is when you tighten it. Adjust the glass to level with this clamp not fully tightened. When level, do final tighten on both clamps.
> 
> Otherwise, don't think it will matter which bump-stop hits first!


Yeah, understood that when re-assembled it earlier today, it was pretty straightforward after all. Didn´t have to use adjust features on the carriers. Job now done and working just fine!


----------



## minttt

niko_kup said:


> minttt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you should use the adjust features on the carriers.
> (Refer back to Page 14 of these posts for some relevant feedback on this)
> To level the window use the fact that only one of the 2 clamps locates to window/glass in a fixed position (through the hole).
> The 2nd clamp just grips the glass in whatever position it is when you tighten it. Adjust the glass to level with this clamp not fully tightened. When level, do final tighten on both clamps.
> 
> Otherwise, don't think it will matter which bump-stop hits first!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, understood that when re-assembled it earlier today, it was pretty straightforward after all. Didn´t have to use adjust features on the carriers. Job now done and working just fine!
Click to expand...

  Cool. Well done... not a nice feeling to have it fail in the first place, but at least some satisfaction in fixing it yourself  8)


----------



## patbatemn69

Essentially, refuse to admit there is an issue. My only advice now guys would be to individually mail Audi with the same excel sheet. Perhaps many voices outweigh the 1? [smiley=argue.gif] 
Details as follows:

Reference: AU-2012/10-029403
[email protected]

Thank you for your email of 26 October, regarding Audi TT Window Regulators.

I appreciate that purchasing an Audi rightly brings high expectations of reliability and build quality, therefore any issue is
disappointing. The vast majority of our customers' enjoy reliable service from their Audis over many miles of driving. However,
like any vehicle manufacturer, we cannot guarantee that the many components which go into the complex build of an Audi will last
continuously.

Following such circumstances, I do understand that customers may wish to carry out personal research on the problem presented.
Due to the Data Protection Act I cannot comment on individual cases or the exact nature of the failures. However, I can confirm
that we monitor any failure rates on all components within our vehicles and pride ourselves on acting swiftly should any trend
become apparent. This is achieved by working very closely with our excellent Centre Network and our Technical Experts within the
UK and at the Factory. Having spoken to our Technical Support Team they have confirmed that there are no known issues with the
Window Regulators on any of our vehicles.

We understand that repairs can be unexpected and unwelcome and we will always try to assist when there is a problem outside the
warranty period. When looking to support our customers we look at each case on an individual basis.

A pre-requisite for any kind of goodwill support is that diagnosis and repairs are carried out by an approved Audi Centre. This
allows us to confirm the nature of the problem and guarantee that repairs are appropriate and carried out to our standards.

Thank you for taking the time to contact me and allowing me the opportunity to respond.
Kind Regards

Hannah Lane
Customer Relations Advisor


----------



## TT-driver

patbatemn69 said:


> Having spoken to our Technical Support Team they have confirmed that there are no known issues with the Window Regulators on any of our vehicles.


Strange.... my dealer said they saw issues with the regulators on de A5 sportsback...


----------



## minttt

patbatemn69 said:


> ......
> Due to the Data Protection Act I cannot comment on individual cases or the exact nature of the failures. However, I can confirm that we monitor any failure rates on all components within our vehicles and pride ourselves on acting swiftly should any trend become apparent. This is achieved by working very closely with our excellent Centre Network and our Technical Experts within the UK and at the Factory. Having spoken to our Technical Support Team they have confirmed that there are no known issues with the Window Regulators on any of our vehicles.
> ....
> Kind Regards
> Hannah Lane
> Customer Relations Advisor


Dishonest, at the very least.
Would be interesting if they could confirm how many Mk 2 TT Window Reg units have been issued (either as warranty replacements, Audi dealer customer funded repairs, or straight part sales). Think that would help them spot a 'trend'.

Thanks for e-mail address and ref patbatemn69, for what it's worth...I'll e-mail them to confirm my window reg failure, and my previous correspondence with Audi to have this acknowledged. Looks like this is going nowhere though.
I'm guessing Audi have corrected the regulator cable material spec issue on later MYs (and hopefully any spare units they install/sell for repairs). Otherwise they're happy enough to ride out the grief they get, as the earlier MYs fail in the field.


----------



## DPG

I haven't read through all pages of this thread but it seems like everyone is linking this to a MK2 TT issue.

This has happened to all of my VAG cars in the past.

In 2003 my MK4 Golf TDI window regulator went 
In 2007 both my TT (MK1) windows went
In 2009 my MK5 GTI was showing signs (Grinding noise) before it got nicked.

VAG know there is an issue but wont do anything about it. :evil:


----------



## Templar

Is there any warning signs or symptoms of a failure that's been noticed ?


----------



## welshmatt

My passenger window went on Friday, as I was going to the dentist. I put the window down to get rid of the condensation and it never went back up! It was good 6 inches from the top so anyone could have put their arm in to open the door.

Looking back about a week or so before i put the window down and noticed some judder and an unusual whirring sound as it went back up, but didn't think much of it at the time.

I played around a bit with the controls going up and down and managed to get it about an inch from the top. Luckily that was enough so stop 99% of the rain we had that day and I put a blanket across the door and seat to stop the rest.

Next problem was how to keep it dry for the night. I don't have a garage and the TT was too big for my parent's, luckily my Grandad doesn't live too far away and it managed to fit OK there.

So Saturday morning I took it around a few of the local indies who were quoting £300+ but couldn't fit it in for a few days. In the end I went to Newport Audi (which is actually a Skoda & Seat dealership, but part of Monmotors so approved for Audi & VW work) and they quoted me £272. I also had my MOT done there and it passed fine so at least that was some good news.


----------



## Sticks

My o/s one failed a couple of years ago - dropped the windown to demist, didn't come back up at all, no previous problems. The n/s failed yesterday, or at least I suspect so. Bit different this time as on raising the glass it'd get to a point and drop down again, as if it were obstructed. Eventually managed to inch it up to closed. Does that sound like the same thing?


----------



## Ric

Just thought I would join the (very) popular group of thoroughly p**sed-off TT owners who have suffered regulator failures. My 4 year old TT driver's door has just failed. Rang Plymouth Audi who denied that this was a 'common' fault, wanted £100 to diagnose the failure and wouldn't tell me how much it would cost to repair.

Thanks to Minttt's excellent post, have now removed both regulators (45 mins each side), spoken to e-crofter who is sending me down two repair kits and lending me the crimping tool (for the cost of postage).

Audi should be ashamed of themselves for not owning up to this design fault - especially as it one which completely takes the car out of circulation - my window failed 'open' so I couldn't lock the car and therefore couldn't take it anywhere.


----------



## patbatemn69

feel free to add your details to the excel doc listed in the thread and perhaps send it onto audi as a complaint. Perhaps the more that do it the more chance of us being listened to.

Cheers


----------



## baker8929

My passenger side failed last winter and managed to get it most of the way back up, had to wedge the gap shut as it also snowed that night.... great fun. :x

Got it sorted by just ordering the part from a local Audi and replacing as mine was out of warranty.

cheers


----------



## patbatemn69

My windows were frozen the other day with cold, now however they wont go down or up using one touch controls, i need to keep the button held down. is there a way of resetting these?

Also i think they have tightened my passenger window too tight during the fix, it seems much slower than the driver side and makes a squeak noise as it seems to be pressed against the rubber a little too hard.

I really cannot be bothered returning to Audi again :twisted:


----------



## Gizmo68

Not read the whole 24 pages of replies so apologies to all if this has been posted before, if not then it is useful info / ammo 

￼￼I have a copy of the ATU (Audi Technical Updates) regarding this issue in PDF format

Topic
Noises when windows are operated Noises from window regulators Conversion to Brose window regulators
Type/model
TT/8J A5/8T A5/8T
￼￼This is for cars produced BEFORE week 46/2009, as the regulator manufacturer was replaced to a "new Brose design in Week 46/09."

If anyone wants a copy of the PDF then send me a PM with your email address. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## minttt

As per PM/email, thanks for pdf copy of Tech Update Gizmo.
Have to smile at the tagline ... 'Audi ... Truth in Engineering' :? 
Looking at section on conversion from CSA to Brose supplied Window Regs, it seems to refer to A5 specifically.
Checking back on my photos from failed Window Reg on my 2008 TT, it was a Brose unit


----------



## hanny73

baker8929 said:


> My passenger side failed last winter and managed to get it most of the way back up, had to wedge the gap shut as it also snowed that night.... great fun. :x
> 
> Got it sorted by just ordering the part from a local Audi and replacing as mine was out of warranty.
> 
> cheers


Hi - was it easy to fit? Mine has just gone wrong today :-(


----------



## evilgabbie

Added my name to your doc. Hope it helps.

I have had both my regulators replaced under warranty (very fortunate). It's a shame we have this problem on such a nice car.


----------



## Camilio

Hello
Roy from e-crofting just told me that You got instructions how to fix window regulator wires in audi tt mk2. Could You sent to my email? [email protected] ? Many thanks. Kamil


----------



## nutkins

Camilio said:


> Hello
> Roy from e-crofting just told me that You got instructions how to fix window regulator wires in audi tt mk2. Could You sent to my email? [email protected] ? Many thanks. Kamil


They're in the knowledge base now aren't they?


----------



## minttt

nutkins said:


> Camilio said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> Roy from e-crofting just told me that You got instructions how to fix window regulator wires in audi tt mk2. Could You sent to my email? [email protected] ? Many thanks. Kamil
> 
> 
> 
> They're in the knowledge base now aren't they?
Click to expand...

Yup, they're in the KB, but new users don't get access straight away I believe.
Have e-mailed copy as requested.


----------



## Camilio

Thank You minttt for great guide. Thanks everybody for help. Hepefully fix it on my own . Just added myself to google doc and poll. Thx

They're in the knowledge base now aren't they?[/quote]

Yup, they're in the KB, but new users don't get access straight away I believe.
Have e-mailed copy as requested.[/quote]


----------



## Templar

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

Not sure if this link has been posted previously but maybe worth a look. Having a contact name at Audi UK it it may add extra leverage for supporting future claims.

Jase


----------



## illingworth22

Templar said:


> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-the-customer-first-audi-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/
> 
> Not sure if this link has been posted previously but maybe worth a look. Having a contact name at Audi UK it it may add extra leverage for supporting future claims.
> 
> Jase


Whooo there is the picture of my cute little face  But it still didn't get me anywhere..... not even a reply from Audi and they were aware I had switched from BMW to Audi and that I may be swapping in the not too distant future!


----------



## UlsTTer

Ric said:


> Just thought I would join the (very) popular group of thoroughly p**sed-off TT owners who have suffered regulator failures. My 4 year old TT driver's door has just failed. *Rang Plymouth Audi who denied that this was a 'common'* *fault,* wanted £100 to diagnose the failure and wouldn't tell me how much it would cost to repair.
> 
> Thanks to Minttt's excellent post, have now removed both regulators (45 mins each side), spoken to e-crofter who is sending me down two repair kits and lending me the crimping tool (for the cost of postage).
> 
> Audi should be ashamed of themselves for not owning up to this design fault - especially as it one which completely takes the car out of circulation - my window failed 'open' so I couldn't lock the car and therefore couldn't take it anywhere.


Haven't been on the forum for several months but am NOT surprised to see this as an ongoing issue with Audi REFUSING to acknowledge the problem ... Watford audi told me also it wasn't a 'common' problem

Following the Skidmark article I have emailed Customer Services with another complaint .. expect to get the usual mundane response.


----------



## AliM

Both drivers and passengers broke within the last year on 58 TTS


----------



## microadam

Only had my TT less than 3 weeks (58 reg) and the passenger side window is currently stuck all the way down. Hoping to get it fixed first thing tomorrow, but less than ideal is the current rainy weather we are having! Any suggestions for good ways to cover the window whilst driving?


----------



## squiggel

Two regulators one on each side within a couple of months of each other. total cost many hundreds of pounds at Audi.

Zero contribution, help, or even much sympathy from Audi, and this on a 3.2 owned from brand new, and all maintenance down to even tyre changes and MOTs done at the Audi dealer.

I had just test driven an RS before the second regulator went, and was planning on purchasing one.

As a direct result of the shoddy way the regulator issue was handled, and the questions it left in my mind about the Audi brand values, I went looking elsewhere, and am now driving a Cayman S and haven't looked back since.

Bye-Bye Audi, it will be a long time before I am back.


----------



## melandnick

Hi All
I am new to the forum so please bear with me.
Drivers side window regulator gone on our 08 TT. I have the kit from e-crofting and have the regulator removed with a spagetti of wire and only a little swearing and blood. I see the guide on the KB and it looks like a work of genius but the photos are all down so it is not helping so much. Does anyone have a copy of it that they can email please as it would be a total life saver.
[email protected]
Thanks


----------



## illingworth22

Here is an updated report on the Audi "Windowgate" Regulator Problem

http://skiddmark.com/2012/12/audi-takes ... tor-issue/


----------



## Skygod

That's my passenger one failed today, stuck about an inch from the top. The driver side one failed in May last year. Fixed under an indy warranty.


----------



## klvet

Same again yesterday on my MY2007 coupe, horrible noise on the driver's side when moving the window down. Now stuck in the full-down position. I hope to complete the repair myself, however, the photos have been removed from the Knowledge Base thread or I can't view them for some reason(?) If anyone could forward details i.e. how to get the door cover off, install the kit etc I would be very grateful. Email [email protected]

Thanks


----------



## minttt

klvet said:


> Same again yesterday on my MY2007 coupe, horrible noise on the driver's side when moving the window down. Now stuck in the full-down position. I hope to complete the repair myself, however, the photos have been removed from the Knowledge Base thread or I can't view them for some reason(?) If anyone could forward details i.e. how to get the door cover off, install the kit etc I would be very grateful. Email [email protected]
> 
> Thanks


Just sent docs to your e-mail, enjoy!


----------



## BobC

Hi

Not sure if this has been mentioned in a previous post, but there is a complete cable kit available for the MK2 on Ebay from one of the Ebay shops called Electric Window Repairs (Item: 271164586973).
This does not require any crimping, glueing, etc. it just fits straight on and replaces the existing cabling.

The instructions are basic, but when used in conjunction with the guide information in this post, it only took me an hour or so to fit the kit and my window is now working 100% as it should.

Just to say, I am not linked to this company, just a happy customer who is relieved to have this problem resolved 

Cheers

Bob


----------



## Doughboy

Just thought I'd share my experience, my car is a 57 plate 3.2 V6 DSG owned since July 2010

I had the driver's side window regulator replaced under warranty after owning the car for 10 months. Last week the passenger's side failed, luckily it failed half way up so I was able to pull it up by hand, whist wrestling with the window in a Sainsbury's car park I noticed a funny ticking noise coming from the engine bay, I popped the bonnet and the noise was coming from the belt and pulleys on the RHS of the engine (LHS as you look at it from the front). I panicked and immediately booked the car into Audi Stockport to have it looked at. When I dropped the car off I mentioned that I knew the regulator failure was a known and well documented problem as well as the fact it had happened to me before. When they called me back with their diagnosis obviously they reported that the window regulator that had failed but also the auxiliary belt tensioner had failed and almost destroyed the belt. Without me having to ask they offered me more than 50% discount on both repairs with a contribution from Audi UK (So I assume the tensioner is also a fault?) so FYI here is the breakdown:-

Window Regulator £64.33
Belt Tensioner £57.96
Auxiliary Belt £26.75
Labour £254.40 (ouch)
VAT £80.69
Total £484.13

I know I could have got all this done much cheaper at an independent, but I'm a sucka for main dealers.
I also just bought 4 new tyres (£600) so not the cheapest week for the TT

If it makes anyone feel better the window regulator also failed on my Mitsubishi 30000GT (which I traded in for the TT) and that cost a hell of a lot more to get replaced. (even at full Audi prices)

Peace...


----------



## jhericurls

minttt said:


> klvet said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same again yesterday on my MY2007 coupe, horrible noise on the driver's side when moving the window down. Now stuck in the full-down position. I hope to complete the repair myself, however, the photos have been removed from the Knowledge Base thread or I can't view them for some reason(?) If anyone could forward details i.e. how to get the door cover off, install the kit etc I would be very grateful. Email [email protected]
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Just sent docs to your e-mail, enjoy!
Click to expand...

Would you also be so kind to forward me the document too?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT: Tony and Mark, thanks guys [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I have re-upped the documents if others want it.

Audi TT Mk 2 Door Trim (Pad) & Window Regulator Removal Replacement Procedure V1
https://www.box.com/s/p27gvqh4wrxu11kf7hgk

Audi TT Mk2 Window Reg Repair Procedure V3
https://www.box.com/s/8spp86q6k0npsri9gmtg

I haven't even picked up my TT yet but already plan to change the cable... knowing my luck it will snap when I driving the car back from the garage.


----------



## Spooky

I suffered the dreaded 'window regulator' failure today on my MY09 TTC. Offside cable frayed and got caught round the regulator preventing window from closing. Not good in a driving blizzard 10 miles from home & 10 miles from work! Called out Audi Assist RAC guy (Jason) who was great. Got my window closed to allow me to get car to dealer. Next battle is whether Audi acknowledge the fault and if not, whether I pursue the matter under the Sale of Goods Act 1979.


----------



## Calibos

Mine went today March '07 TT2. Stuck down. Beautiful and dry and sunny until it happened, Showers on and off while I worked to get the window up. Cable hasn't snapped but its only hanging on by a few strands now with the rest splayed out and knotted up. After some cursing I was able to get the door card off and push the window up from the bottom till it engaged with the retaining strip on the door frame. Of course now the door card can't go back on and is in the boot but at least the car is secure.

I've read the whole thread and tbh, the DIY cable replacement guide fills me with apprehension. Combine that with possibly still ending up with a noisy door from the cable slipping in possible grooves gouged in the roller guides, well I'll bite the bullet and buy the whole regulator. I feel I can manage that. ie. remove old regulator and fit new one.

I'll still save a fortune because according to Irish posters earlier in the thread, Irish stealers are looking for €450. I need two as my Drivers side is also making the noises and doing the up down dance, it just hasn't seized completely yet like the passenger side. €900!! No Thanks Audi Ireland!!!

Can any of the Irish contributors to this thread tell me what the irish stealers quoted for the Whole regulator. Unless they are still in massive markup mode compared to Britain, they should be about €125 each based on a GBP £106.

€250 for two regulators sounds like a reasonable compromise between €900 daylight robbery from Audi or cheap repair but likely a day of my time and blood sweat and tears (of frustration)


----------



## illingworth22

Calibos said:


> Mine went today March '07 TT2. Stuck down. Beautiful and dry and sunny until it happened, Showers on and off while I worked to get the window up. Cable hasn't snapped but its only hanging on by a few strands now with the rest splayed out and knotted up. After some cursing I was able to get the door card off and push the window up from the bottom till it engaged with the retaining strip on the door frame. Of course now the door card can't go back on and is in the boot but at least the car is secure.
> 
> I've read the whole thread and tbh, the DIY cable replacement guide fills me with apprehension. Combine that with possibly still ending up with a noisy door from the cable slipping in possible grooves gouged in the roller guides, well I'll bite the bullet and buy the whole regulator. I feel I can manage that. ie. remove old regulator and fit new one.
> 
> I'll still save a fortune because according to Irish posters earlier in the thread, Irish stealers are looking for €450. I need two as my Drivers side is also making the noises and doing the up down dance, it just hasn't seized completely yet like the passenger side. €900!! No Thanks Audi Ireland!!!
> 
> Can any of the Irish contributors to this thread tell me what the irish stealers quoted for the Whole regulator. Unless they are still in massive markup mode compared to Britain, they should be about €125 each based on a GBP £106.
> 
> €250 for two regulators sounds like a reasonable compromise between €900 daylight robbery from Audi or cheap repair but likely a day of my time and blood sweat and tears (of frustration)


Apologies for the garbled reply.... Paddies Day got to me early [smiley=bomb.gif]  
Audi north Dublin charged 450€ but gave me a 150€ contribution for the Drivers door, which I paid! I asked them to check out the passenger door while the car was in, which they did (well they said they did) and reported that the Passenger Door Regulator was OK. A few weeks later It too went. I got the Kit to fix myself from here. I still have the Kit and some spare wire If you want to have a go yourself!


----------



## Combustion

vailance said:


> just had mine stuck on the driver side today..
> seems like the cable dropped off the rail after several attempt to force them wind up. pulled the window all the way up and the regulator motor just keep spinning without doing anything with the cable off the rail(i think... from what i can hear those clunking sound)
> 
> From what i found on ETKA, 8JO 837 462 D is the driver side (Right) window regulator costs $113.53. any idea how can i replace them myself?


Hey Vailance,

is this part still available for $113.53 if so what website?
you can email me at memagarelli at yahoo dot com

Thanks


----------



## Monkeytree

Hi all,

Can anyone who has done this repair tell me is there any adjustment on the window regulator. I've just bought a mk2 tt which has apparently had the drivers regulator just replaced, it goes up and down fine with no obvious gap but when driving at speed there is a lot of wind noise from the window, so I suspect it hasn't been done properly. The dealer that I bought it from are hours away and idiots so I can't take it back to them, they told me they couldn't find a nothing wrong with it already.

Is there an easy adjustment if I take the door panel off, or has anyone else had this problem?


----------



## illingworth22

Monkeytree said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Can anyone who has done this repair tell me is there any adjustment on the window regulator. I've just bought a mk2 tt which has apparently had the drivers regulator just replaced, it goes up and down fine with no obvious gap but when driving at speed there is a lot of wind noise from the window, so I suspect it hasn't been done properly. The dealer that I bought it from are hours away and idiots so I can't take it back to them, they told me they couldn't find a nothing wrong with it already.
> 
> Is there an easy adjustment if I take the door panel off, or has anyone else had this problem?


Yes there is an adjustment to make the window go up or down at either the front or the back. Dealer did my Drivers window & I did the passenger window....... one is Perfect the other not so........ I'll leave you to guess which and who [smiley=bomb.gif]


----------



## minttt

Monkeytree said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Can anyone who has done this repair tell me is there any adjustment on the window regulator. I've just bought a mk2 tt which has apparently had the drivers regulator just replaced, it goes up and down fine with no obvious gap but when driving at speed there is a lot of wind noise from the window, so I suspect it hasn't been done properly. The dealer that I bought it from are hours away and idiots so I can't take it back to them, they told me they couldn't find a nothing wrong with it already.
> 
> Is there an easy adjustment if I take the door panel off, or has anyone else had this problem?


If you take the door pad off you can get access to the two clamps that support/hold the window. 
If you loosen these off a bit, it's possible to adjust the height/alignment of the window glass.
Be careful not too raise the glass too high, as it will then clip off the plastic trim on the car when opening/closing the door. It's a balance between this and being a bit too low and getting road noise. (You can use the other door/window as a reference)
Document available here..

Audi TT Mk 2 Door Trim (Pad) & Window Regulator Removal Replacement Procedure V1
https://www.box.com/s/p27gvqh4wrxu11kf7hgk


----------



## andrewdean3005

My 07 plate roadster passenger window went this morning enroute to work in the snow!!! (yes its march but it is Scotland). I have removed the door panel (pain in the arse until you know how) and found the cable to be chewed up. 
Audi Customer Services have admitted that this is a common fault but will not recall the item. They have said that each incident will be investigated on an individual basis and Audi may accept all repair charges (i will believe it IF it happens).
I will encourage all TT owners with this problem to call Audi before taking it to an independant garage. They will investigate it free of charge, im booked in on friday. if they wont pay for the repair then you walk away and DIY or take it somewhere else. earlier on in this post someone has mentioned a pdf file for door panel removal, i recomend you use this if you DIY as its a pain in the arse until you know how, then it is very simple. 
Could someone also send me the PDF for changing the reg, as i have little hope audi will actually foot the bill.


----------



## minttt

andrewdean3005 said:


> My 07 plate roadster passenger window went this morning enroute to work in the snow!!! (yes its march but it is Scotland). I have removed the door panel (pain in the arse until you know how) and found the cable to be chewed up.
> Audi Customer Services have admitted that this is a common fault but will not recall the item. They have said that each incident will be investigated on an individual basis and Audi may accept all repair charges (i will believe it IF it happens).
> I will encourage all TT owners with this problem to call Audi before taking it to an independant garage. They will investigate it free of charge, im booked in on friday. if they wont pay for the repair then you walk away and DIY or take it somewhere else. earlier on in this post someone has mentioned a pdf file for door panel removal, i recomend you use this if you DIY as its a pain in the arse until you know how, then it is very simple.
> Could someone also send me the PDF for changing the reg, as i have little hope audi will actually foot the bill.


As posted by jhericurls:
I have re-upped the documents if others want it.

Audi TT Mk 2 Door Trim (Pad) & Window Regulator Removal Replacement Procedure V1
https://www.box.com/s/p27gvqh4wrxu11kf7hgk

Audi TT Mk2 Window Reg Repair Procedure V3
https://www.box.com/s/8spp86q6k0npsri9gmtg


----------



## UlsTTer

UlsTTer said:


> Ric said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought I would join the (very) popular group of thoroughly p**sed-off TT owners who have suffered regulator failures. My 4 year old TT driver's door has just failed. *Rang Plymouth Audi who denied that this was a 'common'* *fault,* wanted £100 to diagnose the failure and wouldn't tell me how much it would cost to repair.
> 
> Thanks to Minttt's excellent post, have now removed both regulators (45 mins each side), spoken to e-crofter who is sending me down two repair kits and lending me the crimping tool (for the cost of postage).
> 
> Audi should be ashamed of themselves for not owning up to this design fault - especially as it one which completely takes the car out of circulation - my window failed 'open' so I couldn't lock the car and therefore couldn't take it anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't been on the forum for several months but am NOT surprised to see this as an ongoing issue with Audi REFUSING to acknowledge the problem ... Watford audi told me also it wasn't a 'common' problem
> 
> Following the Skidmark article I have emailed Customer Services with another complaint .. expect to get the usual mundane response.
Click to expand...

Ok guys ... I have had a positive outcome from this window debacle .... having originally been turned down at the time and after repeated emails telling them they should OWN UP to the window regulator being a common fault *Audi CS have now **refunded me the £300* it cost me to have it replaced at a dealership, and that was over a year ago ... so the moral is ... *KEEP ON TRYING WITH THEM !!!*


----------



## Phage

UlsTTer said:


> Ok guys ... I have had a positive outcome from this window debacle .... having originally been turned down at the time and after repeated emails telling them they should OWN UP to the window regulator being a common fault *Audi CS have now **refunded me the £300* it cost me to have it replaced at a dealership, and that was over a year ago ... so the moral is ... *KEEP ON TRYING WITH THEM !!!*


Do you have a emails or contact info that you could share with us, so that we can refer our issues to the same person ?


----------



## UlsTTer

I think I just emailed the generic link off the Audi UK site but if I can find a specific email address I will post it.


----------



## GreyhoundTT

Well my drivers side went today, haven't looked at it yet so don't know if it's repairable or a replacement, i will let you know if there is any possibility of a repair! Probably not. 

I have now read all through this post so i know a repair is possible, will be checking out fleabay after the holidays! Pain in the neck but i will replace the passenger door side before it breaks. As i am now confident it will soon go.

By the way i had no warning signs of the drivers side going, just a bang as the cable snapped! Managed to pull the window up by hand though so it could have been worse.

I still love my TT, this is just a minor grievance - not even considering speaking to Audi, i'll just sort it out myself.

I have logged it on the spreadsheet found earlier in this thread.


----------



## peter-ss

Well, my passenger side window has just packed up - The first problem that I've had with my Mk2!

Fortunately it happened at the end of a long journey so we didn't have to put up with the freezing cold for too long.

I've just come across a repair kit, available on eBay, and wondered if anyone else had used one successfully?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Windo ... 3f22ab3bdd


----------



## brittan

peter-ss said:


> Well, my passenger side window has just packed up - The first problem that I've had with my Mk2!
> 
> Fortunately it happened at the end of a long journey so we didn't have to put up with the freezing cold for too long.
> 
> I've just come across a repair kit, available on eBay, and wondered if anyone else had used one successfully?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Windo ... 3f22ab3bdd


See the relevant 3 topics in the Knowledge Base at the top of the Mk 2 page. I've just completed restoring the pictures to them.


----------



## peter-ss

That's great - Thank you.

I'm going to order one of those repair kits - All I need now is some warmer weather!


----------



## GreyhoundTT

I've ordered two of those kits (both doors), should be a straightforward replacement with a bit of fiddling - should be...

I'm waiting for some warmer weather myself but if i can i will post some pics and a write up using this replacement kit. There's lots on here about repairing using the cable plus crimped ends from e-crofting but nothing much using this kit which might be simpler although it is a bit more expensive. We'll see how it goes.


----------



## hugo-

Interested to see the feedback on the ebay kit. I am looking to change ours when the weather brightens up. Looks a more simple variation as it is already built up for you.


----------



## illingworth22

peter-ss said:


> Well, my passenger side window has just packed up - The first problem that I've had with my Mk2!
> 
> Fortunately it happened at the end of a long journey so we didn't have to put up with the freezing cold for too long.
> 
> I've just come across a repair kit, available on eBay, and wondered if anyone else had used one successfully?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Windo ... 3f22ab3bdd


I got the kit, I can't remember the name, but it worked a treat. I left a piece of the replacement wire outside for 2 months+ and not one sign of rain!

Any members I. Republic of Ireland wants to make me an offer for remaining cable and Crimper send me a PM. Likewise I recon the Crimper could be passed on on a rental basis.


----------



## timbo3030

Drivers side window went 2 days ago. £300 for replacement regulator. That's even with some money taken off. Nice!


----------



## peter-ss

hugo- said:


> Interested to see the feedback on the ebay kit. I am looking to change ours when the weather brightens up. Looks a more simple variation as it is already built up for you.


I thoroughly recommend the eBay kit - It was delivered very quickly indeed and fitted perfectly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271164586973

I would also recommend buying one of these lever kits, if you don't already have one - It helps to undo the panel clips but is even better for prising speaker grilles off without causing any damage.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380606802254

Also, as recommended in the knowledge Base, I bought a set of replacement clips, which was good as I did break one!


----------



## jhericurls

peter-ss said:


> hugo- said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interested to see the feedback on the ebay kit. I am looking to change ours when the weather brightens up. Looks a more simple variation as it is already built up for you.
> 
> 
> 
> I thoroughly recommend the eBay kit - It was delivered very quickly indeed and fitted perfectly.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271164586973
Click to expand...

That says it for passanger side door, but I presume both passenger and driver are the same.


----------



## peter-ss

The kits are handed - Here's one for the drivers side, from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271182377939


----------



## jhericurls

peter-ss said:


> The kits are handed - Here's one for the drivers side, from the same seller.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271182377939


Thanks.

Its actually cheaper to buy from their website, as post is free.

http://www.electricwindowrepairs.co.uk/ ... 50f0dc6db5


----------



## peter-ss

Thanks for that - I'm just thinking about doing the drivers side too as it's bound to go. Also I've noticed that on opening the door the passenger side drops more than on the drivers side, which suggests that the drivers side cable has stretched!


----------



## TERRY45

Hi Mine went yesterday, Off side this time drivers side went last year. Took it to Audi this morning they could not get the window back up for me, as a temp repair as I need car for next few days . They also said it was going to cost £ 370.
I took it to another garage they got the window up & Part ordered to be fixed on friday. 
totally usatisfactory treatment .
Would never buy another Audi have had paintwork problems coilpacks re light, now this again !! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Tri-Chas

Hi All
Just to add to this sorry state both my windows went on my 57 plate TT, one at 3 and a half years old the other after 4 years. All fixed under extended warranty but its still very poor to see so many owners suffer with this basic problem.

As a warning both mine made creaking sounds for weeks before failing.


----------



## datamonkey

Yesterday my passenger side window started creaking and then after I told my other half to leave it up, she forgot and wound it down again.

When she tried to put it back up the window went about a quarter up then it paused and went back down again. When pulling the switch up it moved both up and down and was making odd noises at the same time. We managed to get it fully closed by repeatedly pulling up on the switch while physically pushing the window up with our hands.

Even though the window half worked, I presume this is still a regulator issue and the window is about to break soon permanently?

It's very poor Audi have buried their heads in the sand over this issue.


----------



## conrad668s

And another one!!!!
Drivers side went today on my 08 3.2 DSG. 
Cars only done 33,000 miles
Not impressed
Is the kit easy to do for a novice?
Are Audi acknowledging and contributing yet?


----------



## datamonkey

conrad668s said:


> And another one!!!!
> Drivers side went today on my 08 3.2 DSG.
> Cars only done 33,000 miles
> Not impressed
> Is the kit easy to do for a novice?
> Are Audi acknowledging and contributing yet?


Check these out and see if you'll be ok with it:

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=278200
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=278203


----------



## datamonkey

A question for you peeps:

If I buy the regulator kits from ebay (for both windows), how much should I be looking at for labour if I get a local indy Audi specialist to fit them?


----------



## Calibos

illingworth22 said:


> peter-ss said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, my passenger side window has just packed up - The first problem that I've had with my Mk2!
> 
> Fortunately it happened at the end of a long journey so we didn't have to put up with the freezing cold for too long.
> 
> I've just come across a repair kit, available on eBay, and wondered if anyone else had used one successfully?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Windo ... 3f22ab3bdd
> 
> 
> 
> I got the kit, I can't remember the name, but it worked a treat. I left a piece of the replacement wire outside for 2 months+ and not one sign of rain!
> 
> Any members I. Republic of Ireland wants to make me an offer for remaining cable and Crimper send me a PM. Likewise I recon the Crimper could be passed on on a rental basis.
Click to expand...

Check you PM's Richard


----------



## npuk

Guys my drivers side window is stuck fully down. 2008 TT 38k miles. Don't have a garage, have left it in a relatives garage overnight. I have seen the post on the repair kit but is there a way to at least temporarily close the window for now after taking off the drivers door card?

Thanks.

Edit: Windows closed for now. Will see if its covered under the Inchcape extended warranty otherwise will get the repair kit.


----------



## angrybritain

Just posted in the main forum about this, looks like you can add mine to the list of MKII failures - 2007 Roadster, passenger side. Bugger


----------



## angrybritain

Nothing quite like being one step ahead of the dealer ...

Me: 'Yes, can you help. My TT seems to be suffering from the Window Regulator common fault. I saw the press release about it this morning and all over the TT Forums so can you sort it?'

Red faced Audi tech: 'Umm, well, it's not a common fault but we can fix it, there might be a contribution'

Me: 'A contribution for a common fault? but I saw the press release'

Him: 'Well let's book it in and we'll discuss once we've looked at it'

Me: 'Great, and while you're at it, can you change the Vag-Com from Leather to Cloth so the Bose works properly?'

Him: *Explodes*

Haha. Love this forum


----------



## richieshore

Would I be right in thinking that if my passenger window decides to put itself down 4 inches after me putting it all the way up that this is the same fault?

It's happened a couple of times now and seems to sort itself but am slightly worried that I'll come back to a wet seat one day...

The car is still under warranty so no worries about getting it sorted but am just curious whether this is the regulator issue or if it's something else??


----------



## angrybritain

richieshore said:


> Would I be right in thinking that if my passenger window decides to put itself down 4 inches after me putting it all the way up that this is the same fault?
> 
> It's happened a couple of times now and seems to sort itself but am slightly worried that I'll come back to a wet seat one day...
> 
> The car is still under warranty so no worries about getting it sorted but am just curious whether this is the regulator issue or if it's something else??


Yep, that's what mine did before it started making a horrible noise (the frayed cable apparently) and then a few 'heart in mouth' moments where it wouldn't shut at all.

Managed to get it shut eventually and won't be using it or roof now until sorted!

I'd get it checked if I were you - especially as you're in warranty!


----------



## angrybritain

Game on! AngryBritain style


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> Game on! AngryBritain style


Lol. Please tell me that's your real toilet seat?!

:wink:


----------



## angrybritain

datamonkey said:


> angrybritain said:
> 
> 
> 
> Game on! AngryBritain style
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. Please tell me that's your real toilet seat?!
> 
> :wink:
Click to expand...

Obviously!


----------



## angrybritain

Oh look ... Apparently even Audi don't like an online kicking!


----------



## angrybritain

And now we are in contact ... privately via Twitter DM


----------



## angrybritain

And now I have to call Craig at Audi UK ...


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> And now I have to call Craig at Audi UK ...


Nice, keep us updated!


----------



## npuk

npuk said:


> Guys my drivers side window is stuck fully down. 2008 TT 38k miles. Don't have a garage, have left it in a relatives garage overnight. I have seen the post on the repair kit but is there a way to at least temporarily close the window for now after taking off the drivers door card?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Edit: Windows closed for now. Will see if its covered under the Inchcape extended warranty otherwise will get the repair kit.


Further to this mines been authorised to be replaced under the Inchcape extended warranty.


----------



## angrybritain

npuk said:


> Further to this mines been authorised to be replaced under the Inchcape extended warranty.


Ahh interesting, Tonbridge Audi is Inchcape owned.

Now spoke to Craig and he's gone off to do some digging and have a word with Tonbridge Audi. I think they'll sort it, but this looks pretty good for anyone else who has this issue in the future!


----------



## npuk

Warranty is administered by Car Care Plan not Inchcape themself. My mechanic said the warranty guy said it is a common fault and authorised it straight away on the phone.


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> npuk said:
> 
> 
> 
> Further to this mines been authorised to be replaced under the Inchcape extended warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh interesting, Tonbridge Audi is Inchcape owned.
> 
> Now spoke to Craig and he's gone off to do some digging and have a word with Tonbridge Audi. I think they'll sort it, but this looks pretty good for anyone else who has this issue in the future!
Click to expand...

If they sort it could you let me know Craig's contact details and who he spoke with at Tonbridge Audi if you know as they are my local dealership also.

I was going to buy the stainless steel kit off ebay so it wouldn't happen again but if Audi fix it free with the normal kit I'd go for that...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## angrybritain

datamonkey said:


> If they sort it could you let me know Craig's contact details and who he spoke with at Tonbridge Audi if you know as they are my local dealership also.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Soon as I get an update I'll post here. Waiting for his call


----------



## Phage

My local dealer as well. my extended warranty has only another 6 months to run...


----------



## angrybritain

Craig called yesterday afternoon to say he was still trying to sort it out. Nothing from him today as yet.

Hope he's not forgotten ...


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> Craig called yesterday afternoon to say he was still trying to sort it out. Nothing from him today as yet.
> 
> Hope he's not forgotten ...


Btw where did you find Audi's press release about this as I searched my friend Google and found nothing?!?!!?


----------



## Calibos

Can someone tell me if the ebay DIY kit is an updated one.

http://www.electricwindowrepairs.co.uk/ ... 50f0dc6db5

I seem to remember reading about careful measuring and cable crimping tools needing to be rented or bought.

Is this kit different now, ie. They figured out the correct measurements and now premake the cables for you and you don't need to do any crimping or buy/rent any tool??


----------



## peter-ss

The kit that I bought via eBay is the same one in your link.

All of the crimping is done for you so no special tools are required.

I would recommend buying some replacement genuine door panel clips and a set of trim removal levers.


----------



## npuk

The crimping one was another ebay item which was not model specific. It was just the stainless steel cable and you had to cut, crimp etc and make it up yourself.


----------



## datamonkey

npuk said:


> The crimping one was another ebay item which was not model specific. It was just the stainless steel cable and you had to cut, crimp etc and make it up yourself.


For anyone looking here is the stainless steel ebay item which is crimped etc...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271182377939? ... 1423.l2649


----------



## angrybritain

datamonkey said:


> Btw where did you find Audi's press release about this as I searched my friend Google and found nothing?!?!!?


In this article 

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

Craig will be getting chased this morning!


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> datamonkey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Btw where did you find Audi's press release about this as I searched my friend Google and found nothing?!?!!?
> 
> 
> 
> In this article
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/
> 
> Craig will be getting chased this morning!
Click to expand...

Cheers buddy. Good luck with Craig, I hope you get it sorted.

I've sent over an email to Audi customer services so will see what happens!


----------



## illingworth22

I did my 08 TT passenger regulator, the crimper is needed to put the notches (same pieces which are on the end of a bike brake cable) on the cable. There are, from memory, 4 of these on each length of cable and there is no way (and I mean NO WAY) you could buy a length of cable pre crimped because it has to be threaded through the Window regulator mechanism. Imagine having a length of bicycle brake cable with the end stop/notches on both ends and then you have to thread it through the cable outer cover!
The easy part to the job is the removal of the door panel, the difficult part is to strip down then re assemble the old unit. And remember the Drivers Reg and the Passenger Regulator are mirrors of each other so you

hang on..... I need to shout this next bit!

YOU MUST TAKE LOADS OF PICTURES OF THE REGULATOR BEFORE YOU DISMANTLE IT SO YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES BACK TOGETHER!

Also.....(I hope I am not breaking any rules here) 
I have cable, crimper and bullets (the notches) in the Republic of Ireland..... If someone wants to make me an offer and then have the tool as a Forum Pass around then feel free to do so!


----------



## angrybritain

UPDATE:

Audi UK are trying to wriggle out of the repair in every conceivable way, saying any 'gesture of goodwill' will be minimal.

Also denying any knowledge of the statement on Skidmark

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/

Saying they have been misquoted. It's bullshit. Told him to go to Audi Tonbridge and get me a bottom line figure of what I'll be paying on Monday.

Audi know full well this is an issue, and one that they should by fixing for free. Crap components on expensive cars is asking for it really isn't it?

I've told them this will not end well for them online ...


----------



## illingworth22

angrybritain said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> Audi UK are trying to wriggle out of the repair in every conceivable way, saying any 'gesture of goodwill' will be minimal.
> 
> Also denying any knowledge of the statement on Skidmark
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/
> 
> Saying they have been misquoted. It's bullshit. Told him to go to Audi Tonbridge and get me a bottom line figure of what I'll be paying on Monday.
> 
> Audi know full well this is an issue, and one that they should by fixing for free. Crap components on expensive cars is asking for it really isn't it?
> 
> I've told them this will not end well for them online ...


Wait until you dismantle a window and remove the regulator..... The Steel Wire is completely rusted and frayed!

what is the difference between @angrybritain and @angrybritainHD?


----------



## angrybritain

illingworth22 said:


> what is the difference between @angrybritain and @angrybritainHD?


HD is for when I end up in Twitterjail! Haha AngryBritain is the main account!

Do get involved with the row, we WILL win this with Audi.


----------



## Phage

Let me know if I can help in anyway.


----------



## dennyaudi

Just fitted the Ebay repair kit to the O/S door. It really is a fairly straight forward repair and can be done by even the most hand-less of us.

If you follow the excellent instructions from the technical knowledge section on removal of the door card you really can't go wrong. TAKE YOUR TIME!!

The cable mechanism instructions are fairly easy to follow and the cable is spot on.

The only tricky part is adjusting the glass to avoid wind noise but again it is fairly easy if you keep the head.

I removed and refitted the lot in around an hour and it cost me a total of £46.


----------



## angrybritain

Guys

Had a sniff of interest in this from a mate at The Times. She's going to pick it up in a couple of weeks, so I'll post updates as and when I hear but might need some of you to stand up and be counted.

Don't forget, if you're a victim and you're on Twitter, tweet me @AngryBritain and include @audiukpress. This shouldn't be allowed to go unanswered.

Cheers

AB :twisted:


----------



## Phage

I'm not a victim but have a Roadster in the 'at-risk' category, so am very interested. Let me know if I can help.


----------



## datamonkey

angrybritain said:


> Guys
> 
> Had a sniff of interest in this from a mate at The Times. She's going to pick it up in a couple of weeks, so I'll post updates as and when I hear but might need some of you to stand up and be counted.
> 
> Don't forget, if you're a victim and you're on Twitter, tweet me @AngryBritain and include @audiukpress. This shouldn't be allowed to go unanswered.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> AB :twisted:


If you need a quote or any help let me know... 8)


----------



## angrybritain

datamonkey said:


> If you need a quote or any help let me know... 8)


Great! Ta


----------



## cw955

N/S regulator went last year; O/S just gone today! Not happy. Awaiting visit from AA breakdown for them to secure the window and take it to the dealers to resolve. 2007 TT Roadster.


----------



## PTP400

My drivers side went yesterday without any warning. Audi Bridgend sorted it very quickly in fairness. Audi TTS 2009.


----------



## Phage

PTP400 said:


> My drivers side went yesterday without any warning. Audi Bridgend sorted it very quickly in fairness. Audi TTS 2009.


Under warranty ?


----------



## PTP400

Phage said:


> PTP400 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My drivers side went yesterday without any warning. Audi Bridgend sorted it very quickly in fairness. Audi TTS 2009.
> 
> 
> 
> Under warranty ?
Click to expand...

Bought car from Sinclair Direct (who are linked with Sinclair Audi in Bridgend) with independent 12 month warranty back in October so yes. They sorted out all the claim and sorted out a few other minor issues at the same time including the rear led brake light recall so all in all a good service.


----------



## Jarndyce

Mine went yesterday. Can't close the window, on-street parking and a bank holiday weekend. Fortunately, mother-in-law has a garage (mothers-in-law do have their uses, apparently).
Rang Audi Hitchin:
"Did you bring your TT in on Saturday?"
"No, that must be someone else..."

Can't believe how many people have trouble with this. Is the part that Audi will fit better than the original? Or will it just fail again in a few years?


----------



## Jarndyce

Passenger side regulator fixed, driver's door checked and is ok. Software for window motors (apparently) updated.
£286 inc VAT
This was covered under warranty, but service guy at Audi said if it hadn't been, they'd probably have done it under "good will".
"We get a lot of these..."


----------



## angrybritain

Hitler's not happy ... 




Please share this in the social media space!


----------



## angrybritain

And neither am I. Today the driver's side went ...






Enough!


----------



## angrybritain

Guess who's details, I've just found on the internet?

That's right, Audi's Head of PR Jon Zammett. If you'd like to email him ...

Jon Zammett
Head of PR
Telephone: 01908 601455
Email: [email protected]

Maybe he needs convincing that it's not just me this has happened to ...

AB


----------



## angrybritain

An open letter to Audi ...

http://www.angrybritain.com/wpblog/dear-audi/


----------



## maTT87

i test drove a 56 plate tt coupe yesterday. I did notice a bit of wind noise at 60 mph + from driver side window.

is this a common thing?

or more likely someone fitted a new regulator/ cable themselves (or audi) and glass is set at the incorrect height?


----------



## angrybritain

maTT87 said:


> i test drove a 56 plate tt coupe yesterday. I did notice a bit of wind noise at 60 mph + from driver side window.
> 
> is this a common thing?
> 
> or more likely someone fitted a new regulator/ cable themselves (or audi) and glass is set at the incorrect height?


Mine (Roadster) has every so slight wind noise, I'm sure I've seen posts on here about the coupe version having problems with ill fitting windows. Try the search function.

When testing, Id recommend having a good play with both windows, fully up and down several times to listen out for a kind of grinding noise, thats the key indicator if they are about to go. A 56' is prime for it.


----------



## illingworth22

maTT87 said:


> i test drove a 56 plate tt coupe yesterday. I did notice a bit of wind noise at 60 mph + from driver side window.
> 
> is this a common thing?
> 
> or more likely someone fitted a new regulator/ cable themselves (or audi) and glass is set at the incorrect height?


I had Audi fix my old TT TDi Drivers window and I did the Pax one myself and I had no problems at all. Now Audi have fixed both on my TTS and I notice when I am on the private road here at speeds of 80mph + there is a noise which sounds like a plastic carrier bag is blowing from the passenger door, kind of like the tissue paper over the comb.

Was this the kind of noise you could hear?


----------



## maTT87

angrybritain said:


> maTT87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> i test drove a 56 plate tt coupe yesterday. I did notice a bit of wind noise at 60 mph + from driver side window.
> 
> is this a common thing?
> 
> or more likely someone fitted a new regulator/ cable themselves (or audi) and glass is set at the incorrect height?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine (Roadster) has every so slight wind noise, I'm sure I've seen posts on here about the coupe version having problems with ill fitting windows. Try the search function.
> 
> When testing, Id recommend having a good play with both windows, fully up and down several times to listen out for a kind of grinding noise, thats the key indicator if they are about to go. A 56' is prime for it.
Click to expand...

i did check for that noise but heard nothing suspect. im thinking a 56 plate would of probably already had this problem by now and someone's fixed it wrongly. That said it has only got 50,000 on the clock and there are no service reciepts showing it has been carried out.



illingworth22 said:


> maTT87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> i test drove a 56 plate tt coupe yesterday. I did notice a bit of wind noise at 60 mph + from driver side window.
> 
> is this a common thing?
> 
> or more likely someone fitted a new regulator/ cable themselves (or audi) and glass is set at the incorrect height?
> 
> 
> 
> I had Audi fix my old TT TDi Drivers window and I did the Pax one myself and I had no problems at all. Now Audi have fixed both on my TTS and I notice when I am on the private road here at speeds of 80mph + there is a noise which sounds like a plastic carrier bag is blowing from the passenger door, kind of like the tissue paper over the comb.
> 
> Was this the kind of noise you could hear?
Click to expand...

not sure i would of used your exact wording but yes. a bit of wind noise from drivers side at 60-70mph

have you cured the noise on yours?


----------



## peter-ss

Mine is a 56 plate, with 58,000 miles on the clock and I've very recently had my passenger side cable fail - I'm expecting the drivers side to be giving up soon!

Regarding the wind noise, I've always noticed some sort of wind / road noise on mine, despite the windows appearing to be sealed - It seems to come from the seatbelt slot?


----------



## Nyxx

It's getting a bit off topic about wind noise.
Have a read here Peter.

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=324175&hilit=Wind+noise


----------



## maTT87

peter-ss said:


> Mine is a 56 plate, with 58,000 miles on the clock and I've very recently had my passenger side cable fail - I'm expecting the drivers side to be giving up soon!
> 
> Regarding the wind noise, I've always noticed some sort of wind / road noise on mine, despite the windows appearing to be sealed - It seems to come from the seatbelt slot?


correct, exactly where it comes from.

Great, ill look forward to doing the repair myself with the upgraded cable. Might just bite the bullet and buy one now so i have it ready. Would always sell on Ebay if by some miracle i dont need to do it.

let me guess, the eBay user name of the guy selling the kit is JonZammett111??


----------



## angrybritain

maTT87 said:


> let me guess, the eBay user name of the guy selling the kit is JonZammett111??


PMSL 

Little update: Just had a call from Audi UK. They're having car in on 29th to investigate, and pre-ordering parts. Cost was skipped over, assuming if it is the regulator they will do FOC. They are aware supplying garage has 'fixed' but will still be taking it in.

It was worth the effort.


----------



## Phage

angrybritain said:


> maTT87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> let me guess, the eBay user name of the guy selling the kit is JonZammett111??
> 
> 
> 
> PMSL
> 
> Little update: Just had a call from Audi UK. They're having car in on 29th to investigate, and pre-ordering parts. Cost was skipped over, assuming if it is the regulator they will do FOC. They are aware supplying garage has 'fixed' but will still be taking it in.
> 
> It was worth the effort.
Click to expand...

Keep us posted. As the owner of an MY07, I'm very interested in how Audi react.


----------



## angrybritain

UPDATE:

Skiddmark have literally just tweeted that their passenger side window on their long termer has just failed.

https://twitter.com/driversrepublic

You couldn't make it up.

We need to pull together, this looks bad for Audi right now. Bickering here over my methods won't help the bigger picture.


----------



## MrSkywalker

I'm new here but thought I would add something that may be a bit useful...

Firstly I cannot promise this will work on every stuck window with a frayed cable but..

After having a half up window for 2 days and no garage i decided to cut the cable at the exposed area by the foot well (door card and speakers removed), I did this more in frustration as the hale stones were getting me cold and wet! [smiley=bomb.gif] Anyway I digress, after doing this I unscrewed the motor (3 x screws) and managed to pull the window to full height! But then it also went down again.... but only to its previous half way?... mmmm... I pulled the window to full height again, reattached the motor, and flicked the switch up, hey presto a nice noise and the window is now locked in place fully up!!!  Ebay repair kit is en-route and I'll get to fixing it this week.....

I do hope this works for you... 

Daz


----------



## illingworth22

Yet more from reporting Skiddmark

http://skiddmark.com/2013/05/focus-on-a ... y-bluster/


----------



## MrSkywalker

MrSkywalker said:


> I'm new here but thought I would add something that may be a bit useful...
> 
> Firstly I cannot promise this will work on every stuck window with a frayed cable but..
> 
> After having a half up window for 2 days and no garage i decided to cut the cable at the exposed area by the foot well (door card and speakers removed), I did this more in frustration as the hale stones were getting me cold and wet! [smiley=bomb.gif] Anyway I digress, after doing this I unscrewed the motor (3 x screws) and managed to pull the window to full height! But then it also went down again.... but only to its previous half way?... mmmm... I pulled the window to full height again, reattached the motor, and flicked the switch up, hey presto a nice noise and the window is now locked in place fully up!!!  Ebay repair kit is en-route and I'll get to fixing it this week.....
> 
> I do hope this works for you...
> 
> Daz


Quick update

Repair kit arrived from ebay within a couple of days, excellent service, and today was the first dry day I've had so left myself plenty of time to mess the whole thing up and wreck my door...... but no, followed the destruction's provided to the letter and hey presto, 2-3 hours later and my precious is back together and working fine! By the way a good 45 minutes was spent alining the glass in its correct position so there are no air/water gaps... Very Happy Me 

All in all a lovely £400ish saved and a finger to the dealers...

D x


----------



## Lyons

To save me trawling through 31 pages, can anyone tell me if the regulator or motor makes a noise pipe to failing?

My window has made a clunking noise a couple of times an each time I close it again as soon as it starts, for fear of it going.

I assume its on its way out?


----------



## Phage

Yep. people have reported grindings, clunkings and just not-right noises as the cable starts to fray and snag.


----------



## illingworth22

Phage said:


> Yep. people have reported grindings, clunkings and just not-right noises as the cable starts to fray and snag.


It is a crunching noise... best thing is to order some door clips from fle bay and pop the door panel off and take a look. That is not hard to do at all!


----------



## peter-ss

The clunking could be the cable spring taking up the slack due to the cable being stretched - my drivers' side one does that but hasn't failed yet.


----------



## Templar

illingworth22 said:


> Phage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. people have reported grindings, clunkings and just not-right noises as the cable starts to fray and snag.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a crunching noise... best thing is to order some door clips from fle bay and pop the door panel off and take a look. That is not hard to do at all!
Click to expand...

Digressing slightly, are the clips likely to break on removal of the door card, any links on suitable replacements ?


----------



## illingworth22

Templar said:


> illingworth22 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. people have reported grindings, clunkings and just not-right noises as the cable starts to fray and snag.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a crunching noise... best thing is to order some door clips from fle bay and pop the door panel off and take a look. That is not hard to do at all!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Digressing slightly, are the clips likely to break on removal of the door card, any links on suitable replacements ?
Click to expand...

The Door Clips can break yes! I think I broke 2 or 3 on my door, but it was colder weather. Have a read thru this post fully there are loads of links and tips.

Someone told me to Google VW Polo Door clips on e-bay and I ordered them, that or check prices from both VW & Audi Dealers.


----------



## minttt

Best to have a few spares to hand, just in case!!

VW/Audi PN 6Q0868243

Ebay or similar ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIM-CLIPS-X- ... 460c13a22d


----------



## Templar

Cheers guys. Think its worth posting now and again as its a long thread to read through to find the details


----------



## Dollar

i took mine to awesome to get passenger side fixed earlier this week. I didnt trust myself to do it, it cost approx £200.


----------



## arnarni22

Folks,

Lots in this thread. My window just stuck today and it's £300 to sort from Audi, with no mention of it being a regular issue.

My car is 08, is there any chance of Audi Uk paying any of this cost and if so what the best way to get it.


----------



## V6Kent

This issue is really starting to worry me now, mine's an 07 so ripe to go wrong.

Last thing I need is a £600 bill 

Why's no-one picked up on the AB letter above, seems like a missed opportunity to me. He's clearly had his sorted out by Audi.


----------



## minttt

V6Kent said:


> This issue is really starting to worry me now, mine's an 07 so ripe to go wrong.
> 
> Last thing I need is a £600 bill
> 
> Why's no-one picked up on the AB letter above, seems like a missed opportunity to me. He's clearly had his sorted out by Audi.


At this stage there is a load of detail here on this issue, and lots of individual contact with Audi on it.
Seems to be a huge variance on response to individual cases depending on dealer involved, and Audi UK (or Irl) humor at the time.
Group submission to Audi from here hasn't seemed to help :evil: :evil: 
Take AB's letter/case and use it by all means.

Bottomline as far as I can see is that all Mk2 TT's (until some production date in 2009?) will at some stage suffer Window reg failure due to corrosion of the cable used. Audi used a lightly galvanised steel cable (through a supplier) instead of a full stainless steel cable. Result... surface corrosion over time.. cable diameter expands... increased friction/wear, more corrosion and eventually cable frays and then snags on mechanism and then fails...

See photo comparison of original Audi cable & stop versus repair specification cable (after dunk in salty water and then leaving out in the shed)....


----------



## minttt

But.. go the DIY route, or Indie route ...
With eBay regulator repair kit, or regulator replacement unit ... should be much cheaper than Audi charge of £200 - £300 per Window.. (£100 to £150 per window seems to be end result through repair kit/Indie)


----------



## guinnessorig

After what looked like the march of the Grand Old Duke of York, mine's just gone on the passenger side (58 plate TTS). I have it booked in with an Indie, but I'm ringing Audi in the morning. I wouldn't mind, but my Mark 1's windows were temperamental as well. How hard can it be?


----------



## Templar

Manufacturers are hell bent on profits these days and always looking into cost reduction sometimes resulting in the use of cheaper parts from a different supplier. Tied into contracts for years meaning changes can be slow unless safety related.
I've heard several times now about the faultless reliability of older cars window regulators. This maybe so but were heavy in comparison to the ones fitted to our TT's.

I work in the aftermarket industry and believe me this is where the money is made compared to OE with repairs and servicing. Customer support should no less be good as the premium we pay for owning an Audi is not the cheapest.

I wonder what the customer service is like from Hyundai with their 7 year warranty. I believe their main designer came from Audi. Can't be 100 % though.


----------



## guinnessorig

guinnessorig said:


> After what looked like the march of the Grand Old Duke of York, mine's just gone on the passenger side (58 plate TTS). I have it booked in with an Indie, but I'm ringing Audi in the morning. I wouldn't mind, but my Mark 1's windows were temperamental as well. How hard can it be?


I called Audi this morning. Although they have posted a statement on their web site (apparently), each problem with the windows has to be taken on its own merits. If I pay a non-refundable £95 to diagnose the problem, they _might_ show some good will in the repair.


----------



## Templar

guinnessorig said:


> guinnessorig said:
> 
> 
> 
> After what looked like the march of the Grand Old Duke of York, mine's just gone on the passenger side (58 plate TTS). I have it booked in with an Indie, but I'm ringing Audi in the morning. I wouldn't mind, but my Mark 1's windows were temperamental as well. How hard can it be?
> 
> 
> 
> I called Audi this morning. Although they have posted a statement on their web site (apparently), each problem with the windows has to be taken on its own merits. If I pay a non-refundable £95 to diagnose the problem, they _might_ show some good will in the repair.
Click to expand...

FFS Audi, what else could it be if the window doesn't go up and down and makes a dreadful noise while trying.


----------



## J909

2008 TTS - drivers side window had been making graunching noises for a while, finally got stuck yesterday, the window will only go half the way up, motor sounds fine.

I called aberdeen audi last night and car has gone in this morning to check it out, i spoke to service guy and i suggested what it may be, to which he agreed and said that sounds likely, my car is still under warranty as i have only had it 6 months...

Edit:
Just picked car up all sorted under warranty by Aberdeen Audi


----------



## guinnessorig

Just posted on Audi's Facebook page. I will be contacting them directly tomorrow.

_'The regulator on my 58 plate Audi TTS degraded and the wire chewed up so that the window was stuck. I called the Audi customer services this week but they would only look at the problem if I paid £95 non-refundable diagnostic fee. It has cost me £250 with an independent mechanic to put right a problem created by a defective part. Given that the regulator part seems to be defective on a number of cars, is this a fair way to deal with the problem?'_


----------



## UlsTTer

guinnessorig said:


> guinnessorig said:
> 
> 
> 
> After what looked like the march of the Grand Old Duke of York, mine's just gone on the passenger side (58 plate TTS). I have it booked in with an Indie, but I'm ringing Audi in the morning. I wouldn't mind, but my Mark 1's windows were temperamental as well. How hard can it be?
> 
> 
> 
> I called Audi this morning. Although they have posted a statement on their web site (apparently), each problem with the windows has to be taken on its own merits. *If I pay a non-refundable £95 to diagnose the problem*, they _might_ show some good will in the repair.
Click to expand...

£95 to tell you WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW?? ..... they are robbin bar stewards ffs!!

EVERYONE that gets this issue need to contact Audi CS and complain bitterly ... I DID and eventually got refunded

They still say this is NOT a common problem when it clearly is .... needs another shaming on Watchdog me thinks :x


----------



## guinnessorig

> £95 to tell you WHAT YOU ALREADY KNOW?? ..... they are robbin bar stewards ffs!!
> 
> EVERYONE that gets this issue need to contact Audi CS and complain bitterly ... I DID and eventually got refunded
> 
> They still say this is NOT a common problem when it clearly is .... needs another shaming on Watchdog me thinks :x


I felt like I was speaking to a robot on the telephone when I called customer services. The call handler patently didn't want to yield any ground that Audi might be in any way responsible and were hedging their bets to cover some cost by wanting a £95 diagnostic fee. I've saved the faulty part and will be pursuing some refund of my cost. Bearing in mind, the other window is not massively reliable and is bound to go at some point.


----------



## UlsTTer

Yep sounds like Audi CS ... I had all that too AND the same response with the infamous dashpod problem on my old MK1 ,,,, write to them in the strongest fashion telling them this IS a widespread problem (_*down to their faulty design*_) and you should not be paying for it .... Audi should have done a recall for this issue !!!


----------



## shaz4473

My turn to join in here [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Last night I put my driver side window down on my 2009 TTFSI to clear debris from the rubber seal along top edge of door(parked under a tree at work!) and then window would not go up. I managed to pull it up some of the way but then took it to the local Audi dealership. I will say that they were very helpful and offered to take my car inside as I don't have access to a garage and rain was forecast. Car kept in the workshop that night to be looked at today.

I did ask about a goodwill gesture as my car is just 4 years old with 22k on the clock. I did not realise that the fact that I had not used the Audi dealership to carry out my last service would automatically remove any goodwill gesture through Audi. I did use a reputable garage and ensured that genuine Audi parts were used to carry out the service. I thought that you were free to use whatever garage you chose as long as genuine parts were used and the car had been purchased at the Audi dealership and had it's first two services there.

Surely the service of the vehicle being done elsewhere does not have any bearing on a particular known design fault with the vehicle??? Changing the oil and filter does not affect my window regulator being not of satisfactory quality.

I phoned Audi customer services last night and was told that it would be down to the dealer if there was 'any avenue to justify goodwill' for me.

Picked up my car tonight and again the staff at the dealership were very pleasant and helpful and I do appreciate that my car got sorted very quickly but it is still a sore one to get a bill over £210 which was 'heavily discounted' as a gesture from themselves.

I am concerned that I will have the same problem with the passenger side and luckily last night I was close to home and the garage was still open. I would not like to be stuck with that problem late at night/raining. Can anyone advise on if it would be a good idea to just go ahead and get the passenger side regulator changed. I was told that the part used today is a modified part.

I think I will contact Audi again tomorrow as they did say that if I was not totally satisfied with the dealership to get back in touch. In my mind it's worth a try!


----------



## illingworth22

shaz4473 said:


> My turn to join in here [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Last night I put my driver side window down on my 2009 TTFSI to clear debris from the rubber seal along top edge of door(parked under a tree at work!) and then window would not go up. I managed to pull it up some of the way but then took it to the local Audi dealership. I will say that they were very helpful and offered to take my car inside as I don't have access to a garage and rain was forecast. Car kept in the workshop that night to be looked at today.
> 
> I did ask about a goodwill gesture as my car is just 4 years old with 22k on the clock. I did not realise that the fact that I had not used the Audi dealership to carry out my last service would automatically remove any goodwill gesture through Audi. I did use a reputable garage and ensured that genuine Audi parts were used to carry out the service. I thought that you were free to use whatever garage you chose as long as genuine parts were used and the car had been purchased at the Audi dealership and had it's first two services there.
> 
> Surely the service of the vehicle being done elsewhere does not have any bearing on a particular known design fault with the vehicle??? Changing the oil and filter does not affect my window regulator being not of satisfactory quality.
> 
> I phoned Audi customer services last night and was told that it would be down to the dealer if there was 'any avenue to justify goodwill' for me.
> 
> Picked up my car tonight and again the staff at the dealership were very pleasant and helpful and I do appreciate that my car got sorted very quickly but it is still a sore one to get a bill over £210 which was 'heavily discounted' as a gesture from themselves.
> 
> I am concerned that I will have the same problem with the passenger side and luckily last night I was close to home and the garage was still open. I would not like to be stuck with that problem late at night/raining. Can anyone advise on if it would be a good idea to just go ahead and get the passenger side regulator changed. I was told that the part used today is a modified part.
> 
> I think I will contact Audi again tomorrow as they did say that if I was not totally satisfied with the dealership to get back in touch. In my mind it's worth a try!


Trust me...... It will go! I have had 2 TT's an 8 & a 9 and 4 regulators! 
You have a few options
1) expensive Dealer
2) indipendant 
3) DIY Kit or replacement regulator unit!

Sad but true fact!


----------



## Lyons

Mine was in to get replaced yesterday (it was making nasty noises) but the dealer said the regulator and motor were actually dead on, they just needed greased.


----------



## Multijfj

Had my car 2 days, an 08 TTS, and the regulator went haha.

Luckily under Audi approved warranty, so is being sorted today.

Had Audi Roadside out to come out and put the window up temporarily, and then drop the car off at the main dealer.

Cannot believe it!


----------



## V6Kent

So, time to come clean:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=222845&p=2605141#p2605141


----------



## Phage

Audi now have a POLICY !

http://skiddmark.com/2013/06/final-repo ... -2-0-tfsi/

They'll treat each car on a case-by-case basis, but inevitably a multi-owner car with variable service history is likely to be less supported than 'one careful lady driver' who's serviced it regularly at the same Audi centre.

Previous Reports
Audi TT 2.0 TFSi (2007) Running Report (plus DIY bulb replacement)

Audi takes its customers for a ride: An update on the TT window regulator issue

Putting the Customer First: Audi responds to the TT Window Regulator issue

Running Report: 2007 Audi TT 2.0 TFSi

In our case, Huntingdon Audi contributed 30% of the fee, reflecting the value of our long-term custom to them, so bear this in mind when you set your own expectations.

Afterwards I checked the protocol for any future owners who experience the same problem. Firstly, there will be no recall - it's not a safety issue and while it's extremely inconvenient, some owners are having the work carried out pro-actively or being notified during a scheduled service visit to their Audi centre.

Should Audi pay for it in every case? I don't think so.

In most cases, cars are outside warranty and it would be impossible for Audi to know if a car has been maintained properly to mitigate the problem. While failure is inevitable, so is that of many other components in the car, each of which have a projected lifespan. Audi cannot guarantee the TT (or any other car) for ever - that would be unreasonable as well as unaffordable - but they're hopeful that the TT's window regulator now meets the standards they original set.

SEE ALSO: Replacement guide - Change a (DRL) light bulb the easy way.

I was advised that while you're welcome to call Audi Customer Services - on Freephone 0800 699888 or [email protected] - in the first instance you should contact your local Audi centre. They should be aware of the issue and can liaise with Audi UK about securing any further support (financial or otherwise).


----------



## beepcake

So their policy is to look at each on a case by case basis and make a decision on how much, if any, contribution? Sounds like exactly what they have been doing, and always do, when you complain that something had died before a reasonable lifespan.

Fairplay to skiddmark for pushing the issue though - and without having to call them names or liken the issue to child abuse.


----------



## peter-ss

Pop goes the window!










Within three months of the passenger side regulator failing my drivers side gave up this morning.

At least this time I've been able to tape it in the closed position.

Sent from my GT-S5830i using Tapatalk 2


----------



## minttt

Phage said:


> Audi now have a POLICY !
> 
> http://skiddmark.com/2013/06/final-repo ... -2-0-tfsi/
> ....
> They'll treat each car on a case-by-case basis, but inevitably a multi-owner car with variable service history is likely to be less supported than 'one careful lady driver' who's serviced it regularly at the same Audi centre.
> 
> Should Audi pay for it in every case? I don't think so.
> 
> In most cases, cars are outside warranty and it would be impossible for Audi to know if a car has been maintained properly to mitigate the problem. While failure is inevitable, so is that of many other components in the car, each of which have a projected lifespan. Audi cannot guarantee the TT (or any other car) for ever - that would be unreasonable as well as unaffordable - but they're hopeful that the TT's window regulator now meets the standards they original set.


Good to see another skiddmark update, but not sure it amounts to a major shift in policy from Audi.
Also, don't agree with the comments re 'outside warranty', 'impossible to know if a car has been maintained properly to mitigate the problem', 'failure is inevitable'...

It's a window regulator.. it should have a projected life of 10-15 years + .. 
Failure shouldn't be inevitable??? Or do Audi think a projected life of 3 years is ok??
There is absolutely no regular maintenance that could mitigate this problem ... unless you'd consider not driving the car in the wet, and storing it in a dehumidified garage the whole time..

It's good to know though that the switch to Rev D of the regulator is when the problem was resolved.
8J0 837 462 C was mine that failed, production date 12.06.2008, manufacturer Brose
Fitted to car delivered July 2008.
Not sure exactly when they switched to 8J0 837 462 D


----------



## peter-ss

peter-ss said:


> Pop goes the window!
> 
> Within three months of the passenger side regulator failing my drivers side gave up this morning.
> 
> At least this time I've been able to tape it in the closed position.
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830i using Tapatalk 2


All sorted now, thank goodness - Trying to get into the hospital car park, on Friday, was a nightmare!



By the time I'd finished fiddling around it took me a couple of hours, using the repair kit off eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271182377939


----------



## Audiphil

Peter,

Well done, should last for several years now 

Phil


----------



## 2Slick

Given my extended warranty had expired on my 2007 3.2 Coupe, I was naturally fearing the worst when I started to encounter the tell-tale window regulator issues! Having called Birmingham Audi I was quoted £142 per hour diagnostic fee to have them take off the door card just to tell me what I already knew (that the cheap regulator wire had corroded) and then I was advised that the repair fee would be an additional c£300 each side! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I originally purchased the car from the dealership (it was c 6 months old at the time) and it has been back for every service and MOT since - I have certainly been loyal to the dealership and paid out some serious cash! I was not going to just accept this from the dealership so I complained to AUDI UK and sent a very detailed email. After receiving an initial call and having the complaint escalated, I then received a call from one of the managers. After a few days she called back and advised that she had spoken to the dealership and they will now be repairing BOTH regulators FREE OF CHARGE! 

I took the car in yesterday, picked up a nice courtesy car and collected my car today - both the repair and service from Birmingham Audi was 1st class. Even though this is a known and unacceptable issue for such a premium brand, I'm still shocked that it was all fixed free of charge with no contribution at all from myself NB: The dealership paid 30% towards the faulty passenger side (Audi UK remaining 70%) and Audi UK paid 100% for the regulator on the drivers side).

Not only will I be buying my next car from them but also my partners which is due to be changed ASAP.

Nice to report some positive news and customer service received from AUDI UK!


----------



## illingworth22

2Slick said:


> Given my extended warranty had expired on my 2007 3.2 Coupe, I was naturally fearing the worst when I started to encounter the tell-tale window regulator issues! Having called Birmingham Audi I was quoted £142 per hour diagnostic fee to have them take off the door card just to tell me what I already knew (that the cheap regulator wire had corroded) and then I was advised that the repair fee would be an additional c£300 each side! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> I originally purchased the car from the dealership (it was c 6 months old at the time) and it has been back for every service and MOT since - I have certainly been loyal to the dealership and paid out some serious cash! I was not going to just accept this from the dealership so I complained to AUDI UK and sent a very detailed email. After receiving an initial call and having the complaint escalated, I then received a call from one of the managers. After a few days she called back and advised that she had spoken to the dealership and they will now be repairing BOTH regulators FREE OF CHARGE!
> 
> I took the car in yesterday, picked up a nice courtesy car and collected my car today - both the repair and service from Birmingham Audi was 1st class. Even though this is a known and unacceptable issue for such a premium brand, I'm still shocked that it was all fixed free of charge with no contribution at all from myself NB: The dealership paid 30% towards the faulty passenger side (Audi UK remaining 70%) and Audi UK paid 100% for the regulator on the drivers side).
> 
> Not only will I be buying my next car from them but also my partners which is due to be changed ASAP.
> 
> Nice to report some positive news and customer service received from AUDI UK!


Nice result...... you lucky so n so!


----------



## 2Slick

illingworth22 said:


> 2Slick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Given my extended warranty had expired on my 2007 3.2 Coupe, I was naturally fearing the worst when I started to encounter the tell-tale window regulator issues! Having called Birmingham Audi I was quoted £142 per hour diagnostic fee to have them take off the door card just to tell me what I already knew (that the cheap regulator wire had corroded) and then I was advised that the repair fee would be an additional c£300 each side! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> I originally purchased the car from the dealership (it was c 6 months old at the time) and it has been back for every service and MOT since - I have certainly been loyal to the dealership and paid out some serious cash! I was not going to just accept this from the dealership so I complained to AUDI UK and sent a very detailed email. After receiving an initial call and having the complaint escalated, I then received a call from one of the managers. After a few days she called back and advised that she had spoken to the dealership and they will now be repairing BOTH regulators FREE OF CHARGE!
> 
> I took the car in yesterday, picked up a nice courtesy car and collected my car today - both the repair and service from Birmingham Audi was 1st class. Even though this is a known and unacceptable issue for such a premium brand, I'm still shocked that it was all fixed free of charge with no contribution at all from myself NB: The dealership paid 30% towards the faulty passenger side (Audi UK remaining 70%) and Audi UK paid 100% for the regulator on the drivers side).
> 
> Not only will I be buying my next car from them but also my partners which is due to be changed ASAP.
> 
> Nice to report some positive news and customer service received from AUDI UK!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice result...... you lucky so n so!
Click to expand...

Thanks - had to grovel a little and sent a full power email though!


----------



## simmouk

OK - I'm the latest one to have this issue on my 09 TT...seems like one we're all destined to have at some stage.

My question is: the window is stuck and grinding away nearly fully open: I saw earlier someone say they managed to "manually" put their window up but now how they did it...anyone know how?

Many thanks

Ian


----------



## illingworth22

simmouk said:


> OK - I'm the latest one to have this issue on my 09 TT...seems like one we're all destined to have at some stage.
> 
> My question is: the window is stuck and grinding away nearly fully open: I saw earlier someone say they managed to "manually" put their window up but now how they did it...anyone know how?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Ian


Grab and pull! It feels stiff but if the window won't go up or down then you have to pull it up slowly


----------



## simmouk

Thanks - just tried it but it's well and truly stuck. Fingers X'ed the weather holds til Monday LOL. :roll:


----------



## simmouk

Phoned up my mechanic and before I even got to the end of the sentence he said "it's the window regulator". He then went on to say he'd just done the 2nd one on another TT, similar age and how when it happened on one side it normally meant the other would suffer the same fate.

I can fully understand the economic reasons why Audi would never admit publically it's a design fault but it's still a bit pants from a company I regard as a quality brand :roll:

At least my mechanic confirmed what others here have said that the newer replacement part is much more reliable.


----------



## BigAardvaark

Drivers side just gone on mine today, Warrington Audi can't look at it for a week, but was given the usual scripted "£130 diagnostics, £140/hr labour" (I am in the wrong job!), etc, etc. Was gonna book in for a service too, think I'll go elsewhere now, maybe a specialist?

Have sent an email to Audi UK, will let you know the outcome. Gonna have to go out now and try and get the damn thing secure, it's stuck open about half an inch from shut.....


----------



## Templar

Been watching this thread for quite sometime now and I'm gob smacked at how many people are having/have issues with the window regs. Even more so the inconsistent resolution from the dealers and Audi UK. 
Audi have sort of admitted that the original regs are not of, shall I say it, considered quality by supplying and fitting to later models an improved version. Though I'd doubt they'd admit this was the reason for the change.
Just think about it, if the original type was good with no quality issues why change or improve it unless of a cost saving exercise. I'm pretty sure you couldn't get a cheaper version of the original unless they used bamboo shavings from China [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## BigAardvaark

2 hours later, secure again, managed to clear out enough of the frayed cabling with long nose pliars and snips around the main "spool" that the motor connects to so I could get the window shut. Left the motor disconnected from the mechanism should I be tempted to click the window button!


----------



## BigAardvaark

Have had exactly zero response from Audi UK.

So, £127.26 poorer and about 6 hours of my life that I'll never get back, used the guide in the KB and am now able to wind the window up and down again.

This is the last Audi I will ever own.


----------



## welshmatt

Has anyone bought he replacement part off ebay and taken it to an indie to fix?

I am useless at technical stuff like this, but cannot afford another £300 to fix the o/s door only 7 months after my n/s went. Otherwise the car will be in my Grandparents garage until my August pay in 4 weeks!


----------



## illingworth22

Seem this is the way everyone is going now... Buy the part from Audi £120 to £140 and either fit it themselves or get an indy to do it!

Why Audi need to put the Diagnostics on is beyond me!


----------



## OnTheMike

TTS 59 plate, 38k, no window regs done.... how long have I got to prepare myself? Or can it go anytime?


----------



## Bayley

OnTheMike said:


> TTS 59 plate, 38k, no window regs done.... how long have I got to prepare myself? Or can it go anytime?


Keep a waterproof cover in the boot


----------



## amber91

My 07 plate is out of action with this. Drivers window will only go up about four inches before it jams. Have been quoted silly money to investigate. I'm sure that even if it is just the regulator, they will stitch me up and charge me for the motor anyway. No faith in taking it anywhere at the moment, safely tucked up in my garage while I think about it. I phoned the Audi CS number last week and they assured me "this is not a recognised problem from Audi Germany". Pulling the wool over my eyes then are they.

Any advice on where to take the car (Live in Kent DA2 area) or how to move forward with this would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.


----------



## welshmatt

I got mine fixed last week. I refuse to give audi any more money, so just went to my local garage, all done for £170.


----------



## Phage

amber91 said:


> My 07 plate is out of action with this. Drivers window will only go up about four inches before it jams. Have been quoted silly money to investigate. I'm sure that even if it is just the regulator, they will stitch me up and charge me for the motor anyway. No faith in taking it anywhere at the moment, safely tucked up in my garage while I think about it. I phoned the Audi CS number last week and they assured me "this is not a recognised problem from Audi Germany". Pulling the wool over my eyes then are they.
> 
> Any advice on where to take the car (Live in Kent DA2 area) or how to move forward with this would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Many thanks.


I'd try 4Rings http://www.4rings.co.uk/
or if you must use a main dealer, then try Tonbridge Audi.


----------



## amber91

Thanks Phage,

I took it to my local garage last week. They charged me £128.00 for the part and £60.00 labour, half of what Audi would have charged and they happily gave me a courtesy car for the day. It's working beautifully now so I'm back on the road 8)


----------



## Phage

Sounds like an excellent price ! What garage was that ?


----------



## amber91

Hi Phage, went to Dakar in Wilmington, DA2 7HD. I bet any local non main dealer would offer the same.

Audi were quoting almost £200 more, glad I saw the light


----------



## jhericurls

My TTS has been making a grinding noise the past few days, not going to risk it dying on me. So going to order the Window Regulator Repair kit and taking it to an indie for a repair.

Just as I was about to order the kit on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 1182377939

But the compatibility chart at the bottom says it not compatible with the TTS :?:

Edit: Made contact with seller and item is confirmed as a go


----------



## brittan

Simply contact the seller for confirmation, but the list includes:

Audi	TT	2012	8J3 [2006-2013] Coupe	Coupe	2.0 TFSI quattro	1984ccm 272HP 200KW (Petrol)


----------



## trunks

I had drivers side regulator break

My local garage said the drainage holes in the door get blocked from the wax the car gets covered in from factory


----------



## patbatemn69

Hi People,

Been a while since i have been on here but i am surprised to see so many regulators still packing in beyond 2009 motors.
Mine was replaced last year on passenger side. The window has always felt a little tight, winding down slower than the other, i thought it just needed adjusting so i went in for a service and asked them to adjust it. Well when i got the car back they only had to replace the regulator AGAIN!!

Just as well i was in the 12 month warranty for the last replacement part.

Anyhow if you still want some ammo in your fight against Audi, please add your details to the google doc in the link supplied.

If you want PM me and i will send you a copy for any upcoming battles. Bear in mind even with this Audi rebuffed my claim.

At the last count 33 people have added their details here.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... vaFE#gid=0

Cheers

Jon


----------



## Essexaviator

Audi told me when I had my cambelt done this week that if my regs go they will cover at least 50% of the cost. They consider things on individual case basis. They will not cover a car boughtbprivately but out of warranty and which is presented to them for a reg. they quoted as mine was purchased new from them and considering I have spent a lot of money on services and Cambelt change etc. that would mean I would be considered for a significant dealer contribution?

Steve


----------



## Essexaviator

Two additional things

Why can we be proactive and remove door card and or spray with a suitable silicon product to ensure it remains lubricated and doesn't rust.

We think we have it bad- audi told me this week the new a5 has to have both done when one goes as the electrics are set up to run both windows so when one reg goes you cant do only one side???


----------



## illingworth22

Essexaviator said:


> Two additional things
> 
> Why can we be proactive and remove door card and or spray with a suitable silicon product to ensure it remains lubricated and doesn't rust.
> 
> We think we have it bad- audi told me this week the new a5 has to have both done when one goes as the electrics are set up to run both windows so when one reg goes you cant do only one side???


The way the regulator's wire passes thru the sheath (like the old bike brake cable) the silicone would just rub off. The fault is the wire used..... it just rusts.... FULL Stop! It is cheap crap and should never have been used in the first place.


----------



## Templar

Molykote graphite spray would help. It doesn't wash off and has excellent wear/anti friction properties. Would only buy you time in the long run though. Depending on how good the cable assembly was in to start with.


----------



## tti608

Passenger side cable sheared on March 2008 Roadster - Self Repaired with stainless kit from Alan at Electric Window Repairs. Kit was around 39.00

Once you've done it once it becomes a lot easier but it did take me quite some time, and fighting with those door card clips.


----------



## Templar

Has this issue been resolved on the later TT's ?


----------



## TT-driver

Finally my window regulator is starting to give up the ghost too, 7 years after manufacturing date. 
I'm a bit scared taking the whole regulator contraption out of the door since adjusting the window to close properly again is not fun. Took me ages to get rid of the wind noise. Finally it's gone, now the thing is broken.

Anyhow: is it feasible to put in the 39.95 pound Ebay repair kit without actually removing the window and the regulator from the door? The cable clips into various places it seems. But why would I assemble it on the garage floor if the same can be done in-situ?

So can that be done by any chance?


----------



## brittan

I haven't seen any post that says someone has done the cable replacement in this way; nor have I done this repair myself.

It may be possible to do it in situ - you could be the first to advise us all if it is possible.

If it is possible I'd guess it would be extremely awkward and with some risk of denting the door skin from the inside with tools or parts. If I were having to do this repair I would remove the regulator for proper easy access to work on it.


----------



## the minty1

v.slightly off topic. Since you guys are in and around the inside of the doors, what purpose does the foam block serve do you think, as I have a pesky rattle when the sounds are up and think it may be that.


----------



## dennyaudi

TT-driver said:


> Finally my window regulator is starting to give up the ghost too, 7 years after manufacturing date.
> I'm a bit scared taking the whole regulator contraption out of the door since adjusting the window to close properly again is not fun. Took me ages to get rid of the wind noise. Finally it's gone, now the thing is broken.
> 
> Anyhow: is it feasible to put in the 39.95 pound Ebay repair kit without actually removing the window and the regulator from the door? The cable clips into various places it seems. But why would I assemble it on the garage floor if the same can be done in-situ?
> 
> So can that be done by any chance?


No, you need to take the full regulator out I'm afraid.


----------



## TT-driver

Thanks Brittan and Dannyaudi.

@ the minty1: I think the foam block is related to side impact protection. I've seen more (3 door) cars that have such a block in roughly the same place. Perhaps it's exactly the spot on which the EuroNcap does its pole testing.

The block is screwed to the door. It's not very likely that it is causing a rattle.


----------



## Templar

If any folk were to buy a new TT has anyone come across some preventatives or suggestions to extending the life of the reg mech ?


----------



## TT-driver

I'd think it's metal fatigue and rust that leads to this problem. Minimising the use of the windows up down mechanism should help. Not having the car parked in the rain should help too. 
Mine lasted 7 years, which seems to be long.

I'll post a picture of my mechanism once I've removed it.


----------



## Jasper

Driver side lifter replaced on my MKII last June now passenger side has gone & the car has only done 53700 miles...not pleased. Had a Cavalier that had done 240k & the windows went down & back up as smooth as a baby's bum. You expect better on a car of this supposed build quality....


----------



## TT-driver

So today was window regulator day then... I'm tired now so if my English is a bit off then that's why. And before I go into details: a big thanks to all who have contributed to this topic. BIG THANKS.

I ordered the kit from Ebay. It arrived pretty darn fast. I decided to remove the whole mechanism, after I made lots of measurement points, using tape, of where and how the window sits. That way I could make sure that height and front/rear placement would be OK again after putting it all back. 
Measurements done:










Leave the tape on the bodywork and just peel from the window. When adjusting the window, it's just a matter of aligning all marks.

Taking the mechanism apart wasn't too difficult after studying the guides for days. Putting it all back together again delivered a nasty surprise. The large white block did not fit on the triangular plastic that holds the reel. The new white block had a round fit where as the original had a square fit. Since waiting for other parts was no option I had modify the reel holder so that it would accept the round block. Tomorrow there will be an autumn storm and on Monday I need to drive to work. And no covered parking available... 

The original square block:










After fitting the whole contraption again, the first issue was that the window didn't come up all the way. It was an inch or so low.I removed the motor, pulled the window up and mounted the motor again. Now that part was now ok-ish. Next I spent half an hour adjusting the window. When all that was done it was time to investigate another issue:

The window doesn't pop down as much as it used to when opening the door. The root cause proves to be the fact that the tensioner inside the white block doesn't properly keep tension on the outer part of the cable. I can push the window down about 1 cm after I open the door. Now the big question is: Did I get the wrong cable? It said o/s which I think is off side, meaning, in English terms, the left side of the car. (when sitting in the car). Or is the tensioner inside the white block not as effective as the one from Audi? Obviously I only investigated this part after all was put back in place. And there was just 1 hour of day light left.

The tensioner and click mechanism that ensures tension remains on the outer cable, even when wear stretches it:










The Audi tensioner seems to work based on gravity. Now I'm not so sure what the story is with my Ebay kit. Since I modified the Audi part I think I now have to buy the original Audi part in order to get it all back to 100% OK again.

The regulator part number on mine ended on A. So it's an old one. Not sure if that the cause for the round/square issue or if it's the left/right issue. Any help on this matter is highly welcome. I will contact the seller, see what he has to say.


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> Now the big question is: Did I get the wrong cable? It said o/s which I think is off side, meaning, in English terms, the left side of the car. (when sitting in the car). Or is the tensioner inside the white block not as effective as the one from Audi? Obviously I only investigated this part after all was put back in place. And there was just 1 hour of day light left.


Well done for the careful way you've done the work.

o/s does mean off side but in English terms means the right side of the car when sitting in it.
The left hand side would be the near side ie the side nearest the kerb when driving.

Hope that helps in sorting out any left/right issues.


----------



## TT-driver

Thanks for the compliment (Quick by the way). It does answer the question, Brittan, it does. Then I ordered the wrong side and still managed to get a working mechanism. Well not all is lost then.

I'll buy a new Audi part for the left side and have the right side as a spare.

The cable on mine wasn't frayed around the wheel. The damage was all done by water that had entered the lower part of the cable, behind the speaker.


----------



## TT-driver

The French have their own method of repairing the window regulator. Smart stuff from a DIY shop. Pics say enough, rest was described here very well already.


----------



## TT-driver

Version D now seems to have an improvement over some older versions:










What you're seeing is the front window clamp. It now has a black plastic 'rain gutter' that should keep raindrops (that find way through the lower window seal) away from the regulator part behind the lower speaker. In my case water entered the grey outer shell of the cable and the cable was actually sitting in water constantly. So rust was killing the cable. That gutter should prevent that from happening again. Time will tell. Tomorrow is window regulator day again.

Anyhow for those restoring their regulator, you may want to consider such protection.


----------



## Baldino

Glasgow Audi replaced my drivers side regulator for free out of warranty. 
Initially I didn't think they would as the guy I was dealing with wouldn't look at the skidmark website as it wasn't an Audi one. He approached Audi for a goodwill gesture and they fixed for free thankfully.

Though driving home the window isn't in the seal properly and it whistles on the motorway. I can fit my fingernail at the top of the window. It needs the height raised a tiny bit and can't be bothered going back to Audi. I can't find a guide or picture how to adjust it for the mk2, the guides are all regulator replacement.

Anyone tried this or am I better going back to the dealer.


----------



## TT-driver

At the horizontal part of the underside of the door are two similar rubber caps that allow access to the height adjusters of the window. When you lower the window to it's lowest point you should be able to adjust the window, using an allen key. I think it's a 5mm one.


----------



## Baldino

I can only see one rubber cap on the bottom. There are a few parts I can adjust with a torx screw but can't find out what they all do. Reading about other posts say you have to remove the door panel to get access to it. So much conflicting information.

From the pictures can you point out if any of them raise the window. Thanks


----------



## TT-driver

See the arrow, about there is your opening for adjusting the height. You'll find a similar hole further towards the hinges. Both are covered with a rubber cap. Take it off carefully. The black plastic cap (part number 8J0837947, in case you'd break it) right of the arrow covers the screw to adjust the window angle. You can increase or lower the force with which it pushes against the upper seal.










Black arrows: where the cable runs through
Green arrows: clamps that hold the window
Red arrows: stunt team  and the height adjusters reachable through the holes when the window is all the way down. (5 mm Allen key)

Be smart and take some measurements, see previous page, the picture with all the sticky tape on the window and the body work, before starting to make adjustments. Use a bank note to check whether the window touches the seal firm enough all the way along side the roof when the door is closed.

Edited for attaching new picture locations. 
Use an Allen key that is at least 12cm or so long and that can be used under a slight angle. And use a light to find the adjusters. I adjusted my window the other day and the adjusters are awkwardly located. So it's not straight up. Windows have to fully down too.


----------



## Baldino

Legend, thanks mate, I will have a bash tomorrow.


----------



## Templar

TT-driver said:


> See the arrow, there is your opening for adjusting the height. You'll find a similar hole further towards the hinges. The black plastic cap (part number 8J0837947, in case you'd break it) right of the arrow covers the screw to adjust the window angle. You can increase or lower the force with which it pushes against the upper seal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black arrows: where the cable runs through
> Green arrows: clamps that hold the window
> Red arrows: stunt team  and the height adjusters reachable through the holes when the window is all the way down.
> 
> Be smart and take some measurements, see previous page, the picture with all the sticky tape on the window and the body work, before starting to make adjustments. Use a bank note to check whether the window touches the seal firm enough all the way along side the roof when the door is closed.


Top man and clearly explained :wink:


----------



## peter-ss

That's very good to know.

Having replaced both of my broken window regulator cables myself, I hadn't realised that you can access the adjusters from there!


----------



## TT-driver

The lateral adjustment works in 3 places.

First the 13mm nut with the torx inside behind the plastic cap as displayed above.
Secondly another 13mm nut with a torx inside at the upper end of the regulator, behind the door card.

See picture below, the nuts are numbered "3"









The third place, I just discovered is not described in the Audi shop manual.

This is the front window clamp again. I discovered that it has a black plastic wedge in there. Wedge out:










Wedge in:










Wedge from the side:










This wedge allows you to change the angle of the window at the wind shield side, to increase or lower the inward pressure of the side window. I just discovered this after I fitted the new window regulator this weekend, so no hands on experience on its effect. But I'm pretty confident adjusting this third adjuster would help reducing wind noise at higher speeds.

I think that then covers all possibilities for adjusting the window.

In order to do it by Audi's specifications you'd need tool T40038/7. It's a template for measuring the exact position of the window, relative to the black rim along the roof. I'm pretty sure you can take all measurements from your own car using this before you start working:









Check the distance between the side window and the rear window (approx 9.5 mm on mine)
Check by how much the window sits inwards from the roof rim, measure at the upper edge of the windscreen and 10 cm before the edge of the side window (approx 7.5 on mine)
Check resistance between window and roof seal with a banknote. Should not be too loose.
Check that when the door is closed, that the side window sits flush when compared to the rear window (coupe).

I'm not sure the measurements are correct. They work on mine, no excessive wind noise. Do check both sides on your own car before dismantling or adjusting your windows.

Experiment at own risk.


----------



## TT-driver

The UK Ebay repair kit contains a plastic ratchet system as opposed to the metal system from Audi.

The Audi mechanism:









This ratchet system keeps the cable tight by keeping the outer lining tight. It works on gravity and is different for the left side and the right side (I found out the hard way  ) 
When installing the Ebay kit avoid that any grease enterers that ratchet mechanism by applying too much grease on the cable. The plastic parts are too light to work when any grease is in this mechanism. The grease makes them stick. When there is too much play in the outer lining, the window doesn't drop enough to release itself from the roof seal, nor does the window go fully down. Comes frosty winter time, it may even fail to lower the window at all when opening the door. So no grease there.


----------



## Baldino

Took both the rubber caps off and had a look with a torch, can't see the part for the Allen key. Tried sticking it in but couldn't feel anything. I don't know if the new regulators have changed at all and is located in a different place.

Will need to find a longer allen key.


----------



## TT-driver

I think so too. Or an Allen bit on an extension. I installed the most recent version of the regulator and it still has these adjusters.


----------



## shingitai

I bought an 07 TT 2.0 turbo petrol when it was just over a year old and within a few months the drivers window stopped working and the dealer fixed it after watching me go for a look at the Jaguars over the road. About 6 months ago the passenger window failed but this sounds like the cable is frayed or snagged up.. about £250 to repair..

In my experience the plastic bits are poor quality....the break sooo easily

My first post... other than that I love my TT
Malcolm


----------



## Dayer2910

Had both my windows fail last week within 2 days of each other, drivers side on the way to work, luckily my mate owns the garage opposite us so straight in and done for 190 quid, 2 days later the wife opens the passenger window and that goes as well, this time in asda car park.....omg another 190 the next day.

Gotta love audi quality hey


----------



## mooret

Well the drivers side went on our just 4 year old car with less than 10k miles!

Took it to Blackburn Audi after being told £110 to diagnose! Unfortunately I was going away for a few days and its the wife's car so bit the bullet.

They came back with a total of £450 for a regulator and new motor.

After telling them I was aware that this is a well documented issue and due to age and mileage mentioned the sales of goods act and merchantable quality, the next morning the price had dropped to £150 all in, including the diagnostics.

Not the best result as the time bomb is now ticking again, but still a bit of a result I think.


----------



## relic222

Passenger side went a couple of days ago. Fortunately I managed to wind it back to the top with some tugging on the window. Just had it fixed at my local indy for £200. Always nice to have these little surprises just after Christmas!


----------



## Templar

What models of the Audi range has this mechanism been fitted to. 
Just wondering if there could be a joint forum advance to Audi uk due to collaboration and pooled member findings ?

Just a thought.

Jase.


----------



## L7OSE

Look what came to day  am so lucky was feeling left out :lol: :lol: bought the cable from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Windo ... 9237874%26 and the guy even has a video to show you how to put it together.


----------



## TT-driver

@ Templar I know the A5 has issues with the regulator too. The dealer told me. The TT didn't really suffer from this problem. 

@ L7OSE one tip: avoid any grease getting into that white thingy. It may cause the mechanism inside to stick and not work as designed. That then will result in the window not properly lowering when opening the door and the window not lowering fully into the door. The set and manual are fine. But next time I'd use it, I'd try to reuse the white block from the original regulator. The original has metal parts in it and will probably work better than the replacement part that contains plastic parts, since it relies on gravity to work...


----------



## datamonkey

I've been quoted an hour labour at £60 (inc VAT) to get my regulator fitted that I bought off ebay with the marine grade steel.

Am I right in thinking it should take about 2-3 hours to fit, not 1? Or are other places I've got a quote from ripping me off?! :?


----------



## TT-driver

1 hour is very optimistic. First time around it took me 1 hour replacing the cable in the regulator itself. Let alone getting the regulator out of the door and back in again. And don't forget: getting the window in exactly right is of the utmost importance if wind noise and leaks are to be avoided.

I've done the job twice now. Once with the repair kit and once with a full new regulator. I'd say 3 hours of labor with a full new regulator from Audi and aiming to do the job right and with respect for the car. Add half an hour for the repair kit if the old regulator is to be reused.

Subtract 1 hour if you don't care for quantity of work, wind noise, broken clips and or a leaky door.


----------



## datamonkey

TT-driver said:


> 1 hour is very optimistic. First time around it took me 1 hour replacing the cable in the regulator itself. Let alone getting the regulator out of the door and back in again. And don't forget: getting the window in exactly right is of the utmost importance if wind noise and leaks are to be avoided.
> 
> I've done the job twice now. Once with the repair kit and once with a full new regulator. I'd say 3 hours of labor with a full new regulator from Audi and aiming to do the job right and with respect for the car. Add half an hour for the repair kit if the old regulator is to be reused.
> 
> Subtract 1 hour if you don't care for quantity of work, wind noise, broken clips and or a leaky door.


Yeah I thought he was being a bit optimistic when he said an hour!

Suppose I'd better double check before I take it in Friday but if I can get it done for £70 I'd be well happy!

Thanks for your help...


----------



## Pmercer

I had this same problem a couple of weeks ago with my drivers side window. I ordered the same kit as L7OSE has ordered and fitted it today. 
It looked well made, came with instructions and there's a YouTube vid of him replacing one.

I managed to get all the door stripped apart in an hour with no damage. When I looked at the regulator, the cable was all wrapped up in it as per the plethora of photos already on the web. I gave everything a good clean and had to deburr the spool a little bit to get it spotless.

I reassembled the regulator without too many issues. It's a tight fit, but it does go on there.

When I refitted the regulator it went in with no issues until......

Problem 1:
When I turned the motor either electrically or manually with pliers there was a grinding noise. It appears to be coming from the lower left corner. I spoke to the supplier on the phone and he stated that it wasn't usual and to check there was no dirt on the parts and that the spool hadn't 'cross threaded' the wires. I stated I'd cleaned and checked that and he replied that if the problem continued, let him know and he'd sort me out. Nice to know he stands behind his product. 
Anyway I digress. So I kept winding up and down and noticed that the grinding quietened down to a point and stayed at maybe half the original noise. Still not good. Additionally I noticed that there was a fine dust coming out of one of the outer tubes. I thought these were metal lined so assume its a ferrule or something that's wearing??? Anyone had this before?

Problem 2:
The window winds down all the time, but the window only sometimes winds up, then after leaving it a few minutes, it'll wind up again. It appears that from the up position, I can wind up and down 50mm without any problems for maybe 5-7 times. If I wind it to the bottom even once, most times it'll stop working for a few minutes. Again after a few minutes, it'll reset and I can wind it up.
I tried the window reset procedure, and a few other Internet variation as well, but no luck.


----------



## TT-driver

Your second problem could be caused by too much internal resistance in the mechanism. If it takes too much force to get the window up, the anti pinch protection stops the window from going up any further.

Your first problem may be causing your second problem. Pictures and or movies may help pin pointing the problem.


----------



## Pmercer

I see what you're saying. I could turn the mechanism with/without glass in by hand, well, with long nose pliers on the spool anyway.

I'll get a video as soon as I can. I'm working tomorrow and it may be too dark when I get home.


----------



## Pmercer

Update. I tried my window before I took it apart to see what the noise was and it appears to go up and down without cutting out.
On examining the regulator, one of the new cables was slightly fraid. It wasn't like that when I fitted it though. My only thought is that one of the ferrules was causing an issue. I spoke to Alan on the phone and he told me not to worry and he'd put a new one in the post! Now that is service!


----------



## TT-driver

That is service indeed. I was just as surprised how fast his shipping was to the Netherlands.
I'm sure you'll get things sorted now.


----------



## LeTrench

Mine went on the 2007 TFSI (60k miles) when it was in the local independent garage being MOT'd and serviced!

When I went in to pick the car up, I mentioned to the chap how convenient it was that the regulator had gone whilst the car was in their care - to which he nodded enthusiastically and said "Yes, especially with all this rain we've been having lately..."
"Not really what I was getting at mate" was my reply!!

Oh well, £145 including parts and labour (on top of the MOT [zero advisories!] and service) from VASTEC Warwick


----------



## delerium

And mine 2008 (MY09) 2.0 TFSI with 75000km on the clock also went yesterday. Not so fun when the temperature outside is -18 degrees [smiley=bigcry.gif]

And local Audi dealer says Audi won't cover anything, we know it's a common issue but your car is too old and out of warranty.

Price: 301,75 Euro (Finland).

F**cking hell. :evil:


----------



## Rodu

Hi All,

I've read through the posts here but am unsure what the problem is for my failed driver window. It is stuck up, just dropped a few mm for when you open the door. There is no noise, crunching or movement when I operate the window button or hold down unlock on the keyfob. This is alwo preventing the passenger side window unwinding via the keyfob.

Any suggestions? Is this a regulator problem or a motor?

Cheers


----------



## datamonkey

Just a heads-up for anyone needing a passenger window regulator for the Mk2 as I have one for sale for £35 which is £5 off...

It's the one off ebay made from marine-grade metal so it won't fray like Audi's do. Here's the listing I bought it off:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690? ... 1423.l2649

I never got round to having it fitted as somehow the window miraculously mended itself and works completely fine now which is very odd but I'm not complaining! :lol:

Give me a shout if interested. Happy for local collection or to post free to UK. International post will cost though...


----------



## Sean225

Does anyone know anywhere in London or surrounding areas (non dealer) garages that can do a passenger side regulator?

Audi have quoted me £611 :evil:


----------



## datamonkey

Sean225 said:


> Does anyone know anywhere in London or surrounding areas (non dealer) garages that can do a passenger side regulator?
> 
> Audi have quoted me £611 :evil:


I think 4 Rings in Dartford charge about £200ish for labour and I have a regulator kit for sale for £35 (same as the ebay one) but not sure how far you'd want to travel?


----------



## Sean225

datamonkey said:


> Sean225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know anywhere in London or surrounding areas (non dealer) garages that can do a passenger side regulator?
> 
> Audi have quoted me £611 :evil:
> 
> 
> 
> I think 4 Rings in Dartford charge about £200ish for labour and I have a regulator kit for sale for £35 (same as the ebay one) but not sure how far you'd want to travel?
Click to expand...

Cheers fella gave Dean a call, booked in for next Friday. I will send you a PM about the regulator although they gave me an all in price so may have to stick with that.


----------



## TTSam

To be fair my mechanic did mine in about an hour, if not less. Looks like im about to visit him again as the other side has just gone. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brice1ie

Replaced both of mine in the last year!! They said it was a rare problem!!

This thread is proving otherwise....


----------



## Psychonaut

Ill have it off you, still can't post messages (daft forum rules) so can you PM some contact details



datamonkey said:


> Just a heads-up for anyone needing a passenger window regulator for the Mk2 as I have one for sale for £35 which is £5 off...
> 
> It's the one off ebay made from marine-grade metal so it won't fray like Audi's do. Here's the listing I bought it off:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690? ... 1423.l2649
> 
> I never got round to having it fitted as somehow the window miraculously mended itself and works completely fine now which is very odd but I'm not complaining! :lol:
> 
> Give me a shout if interested. Happy for local collection or to post free to UK. International post will cost though...


----------



## Psychonaut

For the record my Drivers side gone 49k 57plate car. Ebay replacement ordered but might do the passenger side as well at a later date.


----------



## datamonkey

Psychonaut said:


> Ill have it off you, still can't post messages (daft forum rules) so can you PM some contact details
> 
> 
> 
> datamonkey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just a heads-up for anyone needing a passenger window regulator for the Mk2 as I have one for sale for £35 which is £5 off...
> 
> It's the one off ebay made from marine-grade metal so it won't fray like Audi's do. Here's the listing I bought it off:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690? ... 1423.l2649
> 
> I never got round to having it fitted as somehow the window miraculously mended itself and works completely fine now which is very odd but I'm not complaining! :lol:
> 
> Give me a shout if interested. Happy for local collection or to post free to UK. International post will cost though...
Click to expand...

Hi Psychonaut, just sent you a PM. Cheers!


----------



## Psychonaut

Regulator arrived safe and sound, thanks for the quick response



datamonkey said:


> Psychonaut said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ill have it off you, still can't post messages (daft forum rules) so can you PM some contact details
> 
> 
> 
> datamonkey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just a heads-up for anyone needing a passenger window regulator for the Mk2 as I have one for sale for £35 which is £5 off...
> 
> It's the one off ebay made from marine-grade metal so it won't fray like Audi's do. Here's the listing I bought it off:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690? ... 1423.l2649
> 
> I never got round to having it fitted as somehow the window miraculously mended itself and works completely fine now which is very odd but I'm not complaining! :lol:
> 
> Give me a shout if interested. Happy for local collection or to post free to UK. International post will cost though...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi Psychonaut, just sent you a PM. Cheers!
Click to expand...


----------



## newStu

Just had my window regulator replaced by a local garage. It works Ok but doesn't seem to raise quite high enough when the door closes so there is a whistle when driving at speed.

Is there any way to adjust the movement of the window without taking it all to bits again?

Thanks


----------



## Hoggy

newStu said:


> Just had my window regulator replaced by a local garage. It works Ok but doesn't seem to raise quite high enough when the door closes so there is a whistle when driving at speed.
> 
> Is there any way to adjust the movement of the window without taking it all to bits again? Thanks


Hi,Try a window reset.
Normal procedure is Door open, Ign on, engine running is better as battery at full volts.
Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds.
Try more than once.

Hoggy.


----------



## newStu

Thanks, tried it once but maybe I need to repeat it a few times. Will give it a try. Thanks


----------



## The second Don

Please add my 57 plate 2.0 TFSI Coupe with 40k miles on the clock to the list. Drivers side regulator and motor replaced at a cost of £630 by the main stealer. Complaint logged with Audi CS as advised by the article in Skidmarks. I'll let you know how I get on.


----------



## TT-driver

Hoggy said:


> newStu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just had my window regulator replaced by a local garage. It works Ok but doesn't seem to raise quite high enough when the door closes so there is a whistle when driving at speed.
> 
> Is there any way to adjust the movement of the window without taking it all to bits again? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,Try a window reset.
> Normal procedure is Door open, Ign on, engine running is better as battery at full volts.
> Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds.
> Try more than once.
> 
> Hoggy.
Click to expand...

In case that doesn't work, the window height can be adjusted by adjusters indicated by the red arrows in the picture below:









These adjusters require a 5 mm Allen key of a long type, 12 cm or so. They are reachable when the window is all the way down through the 2 holes that are covered by rubber stops, in the underside of the door. They are a bit awkwardly positioned and you'll need a torch to actually find them. Look under various angles, they are there. Try with half a turn at the time. Put some masking tape around the top edge of the window and draw a line on them relative to the roof line so you can check your progress. I'd recommend testing with half a turn at the time.


----------



## Adam M

I have two regulators that came with my folding mirror modules if anyone wants them.

Pretty sure they are brand new. They certainly look it. £75 the pair - delivered.


----------



## K3GNM

Well the sun was out today, so cleaned and waxed her, me and the mrs got in to go off out and I put both windows down and crunch! The passenger one went half way down and that was it - I managed to manually pull it back up into place.... But it looks like the dreaded window regulator. Are those ones on eBay any good or is it an audi part best?


----------



## Adam M

I'd always go for the OEM part, but that's just me.

I also happen to have one for sale!


----------



## newStu

Thanks for your help guys. I had my regulator replaced at a local independent and then took it back again. Still not fixed. The problem is the window when the door closes. The glass doesn't move up enough to push into the seal properly. The garage tried again free of charge so can't complain but is there a way of adjusting the movement of the glass when the door closes so it pushes into the seal properly? I'm not totally convinced taking it back the garage again is going to get it fixed.
Thanks chaps


----------



## The second Don

newStu said:


> Thanks for your help guys. I had my regulator replaced at a local independent and then took it back again. Still not fixed. The problem is the window when the door closes. The glass doesn't move up enough to push into the seal properly. The garage tried again free of charge so can't complain but is there a way of adjusting the movement of the glass when the door closes so it pushes into the seal properly? I'm not totally convinced taking it back the garage again is going to get it fixed.
> Thanks chaps


I had the same issue with mine and it went back to the main stealer for them to adjust the window. It fits perfectly now. If you look at previous posts on this thread there is a one with pictures and an explaination of what to do. I'd show it to the indy garage and get them to do the job properly.


----------



## The second Don

The second Don said:


> Please add my 57 plate 2.0 TFSI Coupe with 40k miles on the clock to the list. Drivers side regulator and motor replaced at a cost of £630 by the main stealer. Complaint logged with Audi CS as advised by the article in Skidmarks. I'll let you know how I get on.


It took a few phone calls but the issue has been resolved to my complete satisfaction. Its nice to win one once in a while.


----------



## Apathetic

Bought a 57 plate 3.2 Quattro last October. Had researched beforehand to see what probs to expect. I asked the dealer if he knew the regulators had been replaced but he didn't know. Anyhow two weeks after buying the car (love it by the way) the passenger reg went. Thankfully it was under the months warranty so I had it done locally but the dealer paid. However, last week the drivers side went so I have had to pay for that which was £190. My local indie says he gets the part from Audi. Hopefully that is sorted now.


----------



## johncoote69

Mines gone. Had to tape the window all up.

What should I do?

Does anybody know any firms in Coventry thst can help?

Is audi cs a waste of time? Car is about 2 months out if used approved warranty

It went back for aircon fault
Faulty horn
Blown speakers etc

Pile of crap and won't touch another


----------



## The second Don

johncoote69 said:


> Mines gone. Had to tape the window all up.
> 
> What should I do?
> 
> Does anybody know any firms in Coventry thst can help?
> 
> Is audi cs a waste of time? Car is about 2 months out if used approved warranty
> 
> It went back for aircon fault
> Faulty horn
> Blown speakers etc
> 
> Pile of crap and won't touch another


Try Audi CS first. If its only just out of it's approved warranty there should be something they can do regarding goodwill.


----------



## johncoote69

That's my plan.
I'm fuming t b h 
Spent nearly 2000 quid on faulty ecu on tt auto before

Will go back to porsche boxster after this I think


----------



## johncoote69

Been onto audi cs who are going to look into it as had nothing but crap with the car.

In meantime have managed to get Listers audi Coventry to waiver the initial diagnostic fee...


----------



## johncoote69

It's defo the regulator - the dealer has confirmed it.

Audi customer service have agreed to cover 80% of the £400 plus fee bringing it to £70
They are also honouring the price on the other one.

The service manager is giving me his Q7 as a runaround on Thursday as only time to fit one today.

Good work I think?


----------



## The second Don

johncoote69 said:


> It's defo the regulator - the dealer has confirmed it.
> 
> Audi customer service have agreed to cover 80% of the £400 plus fee bringing it to £70
> They are also honouring the price on the other one.
> 
> The service manager is giving me his Q7 as a runaround on Thursday as only time to fit one today.
> 
> Good work I think?


Yes a good result. Are you still going back to a boxster?


----------



## johncoote69

There's a good chance I will.
T b h I really don't bed the stress of TT ownership.

I feel the overall build quality from mk1 to mk2 has gone backwards.

Owned several mk1 models, only one without issue, but the newer just seems to be a time bomb.

Am I over reacting?


----------



## Jonnybegud

My 2.0 TFSI 07 44k miles passenger side went recently. Stripped out the frayed cable & ordered replacement from eBay, don't forget to order door card clips too. Follow step by step instruction from knowledge part of forum. Job took about 2 hours & cost £45 in total. I've learnt a bit more about the car & I'm ready for the next one going! 
Good luck!


----------



## johncoote69

Audi cs stepped in even though out of warranty....

Should be £480..... Gave it me for £70.

Also said they would honour other side.

However having first one done they also found the a b s pump has gone....

£2600

Audi cs have covered it 100% as goodwill and the total actual cost of my two windows was done at £100 in the end!

Approx £3800 of audi work for £100

Brilliant? Also was given a full audi soft top cleaning kit

Also if want a year of warranty... As I had none at all...

Half price... Again goodwill

I'm sticking with it!

Can't thank listers coventry and audi cs enough


----------



## TT-driver

The second Don said:


> newStu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help guys. I had my regulator replaced at a local independent and then took it back again. Still not fixed. The problem is the window when the door closes. The glass doesn't move up enough to push into the seal properly. The garage tried again free of charge so can't complain but is there a way of adjusting the movement of the glass when the door closes so it pushes into the seal properly? I'm not totally convinced taking it back the garage again is going to get it fixed.
> Thanks chaps
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with mine and it went back to the main stealer for them to adjust the window. It fits perfectly now. If you look at previous posts on this thread there is a one with pictures and an explaination of what to do. I'd show it to the indy garage and get them to do the job properly.
Click to expand...

That is for fine tuning. If the window is seriously put back wrong into the window regulator clamps, fine tuning won't cut it. There is quite some play possible in those clamps to start with.


----------



## Mrcoolguy

Many of us have spoken of Alan, the guy who runs the Electric Window repair company in Washington in the frozen North East of England.
Well this morning it was far from frozen up there, in fact it was a lovely morning, the sun was cracking the flagstones!
Alan runs a mobile service (in addition to supplying regulator kits worldwide via eBay) for replacement of window regulators....amongst most makes, he does lots of A5's and works directly for the big stealers too.
Sadly his mobile area doesn't stretch the 94.5 miles South to Skipton (one degree warmer) so......having booked a time with him last week I drove up and found myself parked in a quiet corner of the Peel Retail Centre car park at 9.25 am. Spot on at 9.30 Alan arrived in a very well equipped van/workshop with all the gear, down even to a flask of coffee. I left him to it and had a walk around a couple of sheds...including Homebase whose toilets were not working properly?!?!...then an excellent cooked breakfast at Clays garden centre..then after just 85 mins, a call to say the car was ready.
He had replaced both the regulators in my '58 reg V6 Coupe which was actually just a precaution at 21K miles. The old ones were actually OK. But at £90.00 per door, supply and fit, an affordable bit of insurance. You could not meet a more knowledgeable, efficient and pleasant guy. Mobile 07714 324535. For the V6 consumption guys....190 miles within speed limits A roads and A1(M)......35.6 mpg!


----------



## tomos8304

I just rang this man what a nice bloke unfortunately he's not coming too South Wales for a holiday anytime soon lol but he's talked me thru it and I've ordered one from him


----------



## robokn

Well my other one has now gone, so maybe a call to Alan and get two just in case, F'ing windows


----------



## Ivandobskey

Are the window regulators really that poor on the TT?? Very worrying.


----------



## UlsTTer

Are they ???? ..... just read the (41 pages) on the thread here - and that is probably just a small proportion of owners, there must be literally 100's and 100's of TT owners affected yet Audi are 'not aware' of a problem surrounding the windows :roll:


----------



## TT-driver

'not aware' is the standard answer to most problems until the factory admits the problem and comes up with a technical service bulletin.


----------



## The second Don

TT-driver said:


> 'not aware' is the standard answer to most problems until the factory admits the problem and comes up with a technical service bulletin.


Please see the link below on what to do if you have this problem.

http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/putting-th ... tor-issue/


----------



## delerium

delerium said:


> And mine 2008 (MY09) 2.0 TFSI with 75000km on the clock also went yesterday. Not so fun when the temperature outside is -18 degrees [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> And local Audi dealer says Audi won't cover anything, we know it's a common issue but your car is too old and out of warranty.
> 
> Price: 301,75 Euro (Finland).
> 
> F**cking hell. :evil:


Boom fucking boom. Couple months later and the passenger side regulator also goes. Audi "premium quality" [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Oh well, will be probably ordering the eBay kit now :evil:


----------



## Templar

I wonder if the Mk3 will have this quality window mechanism fitted ?


----------



## Ivandobskey

ECP have TT window regulators at discount £67 currently. Wondering whether to stock up :?


----------



## sanj

Ivandobskey said:


> ECP have TT window regulators at discount £67 currently. Wondering whether to stock up :?


Why not get them from Alan they are cheaper?


----------



## tomos8304

sanj said:


> Ivandobskey said:
> 
> 
> 
> ECP have TT window regulators at discount £67 currently. Wondering whether to stock up :?
> 
> 
> 
> Why not get them from Alan they are cheaper?
Click to expand...

+1


----------



## Mrcoolguy

And they are stainless steel cables


----------



## Livlifetothemax

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1401283057299.jpg[/attachment]

Bubble wrap of shame. £280 to repair at a main dealer

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


----------



## delerium

Well I just got my right hand side window regulator fixed, thanks to Alan for the regulator repair kit and the numerous guides here on Knowledge Base. So I think I saved around 230 euros (not calculating my own labor).

However it wasn't very straightforward job although I think I had pretty good instructions. I don't even dare to say how many hours it took me to do just one side where others here have said they've been able to do within a hour.

I'm sure I would be a lot quicker if I had to do it again, but adjusting the windows and the repair kit frame took many many attempts to get it just right. It's not rocket science but if you can get the complete window regulator for 67 pounds I say go for it, then it shouldn't take too long.

Now I have repaired my BOSE amp before it went boom and both window regulators changed, I wonder whats next for this TT owner. [smiley=book2.gif] :twisted:

Audi quality.


----------



## craigttp

the exact same happened to me on Monday....driving around with the hood down in the nice sunshine.

decide to go to the car wash and put the hood up, cars fill in behind me and the window regulator broke.
forced to go through the car wash with the window unable to close fully.

i was sat with he window open about 1 inch, luckily i had an old jacket in the car which i used to block up the gap.

phoned Bolton Audi 3 times across Monday and Tuesday to try and get a price for this to be fixed. each time i was unable to speak to somebody in the relevant department and was informed i would be phoned back.

by the end of Tuesday i gave up on them and the poor service and decided to buy the ebay repair kit.

bought the repair kit off ebay on Tuesday night and been repaired at my local garage today, fixed for £99.95


----------



## robokn

My drivers side has now gone ordered the kit from Alan, Audi your are delusional if you think this is not a common problem as all four have now gone on my TT's


----------



## jonwalton

Do you normally get any warning when they are about to go? I'm getting paranoid it is going to happen but they seem absolutely fine. No strange noises or anything. Mine is a 2006 model so maybe they've already been fixed?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## TT-driver

Usually it starts with some crunchy noises from behind the door card. Then the number of successful down and up actions are numbered, often in single digits. Open the window often and the cable will suffer from metal fatigue. Don't use it and the cable will rust, as I found out. Mine is a 2006 too, driver door unit is replaced. Passenger door: well I just don't open the window any more until I have the tine to replace the cable.


----------



## naughts4187

And my drivers side has gone this evening.
Heard the grinding noise and then it stopped half way. I had to do the whole, up and down thing a few times to get the window back up. I've emailed Audi UK and also Alan from eBay (don't usually hear that in a sentence). I'm expecting a quicker reply from the latter :lol:

My passenger side is also going so need them both doing really. Also my drivers door, passenger side window switch has broken, it just floats around. 
So that's the following in the past 12 months:

Boot release handle
Bose amp
2 x window regs.

MEGA.


----------



## Mrcoolguy

Naughts....... Use Alan, he is only up the road from you in Washington...£90 per side, 45 min job. See my post on here


----------



## naughts4187

Mrcoolguy said:


> Naughts....... Use Alan, he is only up the road from you in Washington...£90 per side, 45 min job. See my post on here


I've already spoken to him. £90 is an absolute bargain!! Thanks for the recommendation.


----------



## ChrisSiriusBlack

My offside door window regulator went yesterday evening.

Bit of research on here prompted me to E mail customer services, I also copied in my local Audi Dealership.

An hour later received a call from the service manager. Car booked in on Tuesday, the tab is being picked up by Audi UK and the Dealership jointly.

It appears that the premium paid for quality also covers customer service too.

Mine is a 2008 (recently acquired by me) the previous owner, from new, always had the services and MOT done at the Audi Dealership. Loyalty does pay.


----------



## Yamitime

Just purchased both sides from Alan .
2008 roadster .Cables have not gone yet but I've got smudges in the middle of the windows (silicon grease?) and the passenger door side is making funny noises.Seems the cables are on their way out and started to split hence the silicon on the window from the broken strands of cable.

Will attempt repair at the weekend and fix the annoying bass rumble on the passenger side too (may be the cable vibrating where its splitting ) detracting from my music.
BTW Hello all I'm new and loving this forum.
Gary

PS Where can I can the passenger side speaker grill as ive broke it . Dealers?


----------



## Mrcoolguy

TT Forum 1.........Audi stealers 0. Ha Ha


----------



## Yamitime

On further investigation ( taking door panel off and window out ) It seems mine are ok ,I fixed the noise with the window and now im left with 2 brand new window regulator cables bought from Alan including instructions 
Any one need some regulators ?


----------



## The second Don

Yamitime said:


> On further investigation ( taking door panel off and window out ) It seems mine are ok ,I fixed the noise with the window and now im left with 2 brand new window regulator cables bought from Alan including instructions
> Any one need some regulators ?


I'm sure you won't have them long.


----------



## naughts4187

TAKE NOTE PEOPLE.

Audi UK are now replacing regulators FOC. They won't directly admit there is a problem but they are making dealers offer FOC when you have 1 to repair.
Myself and another forum member have this happen in the past week and this thread backs up why http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/puttin...di-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/.

Get onto Audi UK people!


----------



## Livlifetothemax

naughts4187 said:


> TAKE NOTE PEOPLE.
> 
> Audi UK are now replacing regulators FOC. They won't directly admit there is a problem but they are making dealers offer FOC when you have 1 to repair.
> Myself and another forum member have this happen in the past week and this thread backs up why http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/puttin...di-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/.
> 
> Get onto Audi UK people!


Looks like I'll have to! My second one has just gone in the space of 6 weeks!


----------



## Livlifetothemax

Full of comedians! They just tried to charge me £490 for the pleasure of fixing it!

Got them down to £270 but I'm still not a happy chappy so Customer Relations are on the case


----------



## illingn

naughts4187 said:


> TAKE NOTE PEOPLE.
> 
> Audi UK are now replacing regulators FOC. They won't directly admit there is a problem but they are making dealers offer FOC when you have 1 to repair.
> Myself and another forum member have this happen in the past week and this thread backs up why http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/puttin...di-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/.
> 
> Get onto Audi UK people!


I spoke to my dealer about about my window problem yesterday (before I saw your post above). They quoted £142 to take a look and around £300 to £400 to fix, depending on the cause. My car is 6 years old. Is there any official communication I could use at the dealers? I couldn't even get them to admit it was a common problem!


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> naughts4187 said:
> 
> 
> 
> TAKE NOTE PEOPLE.
> 
> Audi UK are now replacing regulators FOC. They won't directly admit there is a problem but they are making dealers offer FOC when you have 1 to repair.
> Myself and another forum member have this happen in the past week and this thread backs up why http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/puttin...di-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/.
> 
> Get onto Audi UK people!
> 
> 
> 
> I spoke to my dealer about about my window problem yesterday (before I saw your post above). They quoted £142 to take a look and around £300 to £400 to fix, depending on the cause. My car is 6 years old. Is there any official communication I could use at the dealers? I couldn't even get them to admit it was a common problem!
Click to expand...

You need to quote the Jon Zammett article in Skiddmark. If you look through the previous posts on this thread you'll find all the info you need, and more, to help you.


----------



## illingn

Thanks, I've read most of the articles and the skidmark site, but I cannot see any that definitively, officially that says Audi will foot the bill. I could be being blind though...!


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> Thanks, I've read most of the articles and the skidmark site, but I cannot see any that definitively, officially that says Audi will foot the bill. I could be being blind though...!


They don't, they treat each one on a case by case basis. I bought mine new from Audi and always had it service by the main stealer so Audi UK reimbursed me for the cost of the repair. If the car has been serviced at your local Kwikfit you may not be so lucky, well worth giving Audi UK a try though. Good luck.


----------



## illingn

The second Don said:


> illingn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I've read most of the articles and the skidmark site, but I cannot see any that definitively, officially that says Audi will foot the bill. I could be being blind though...!
> 
> 
> 
> They don't, they treat each one on a case by case basis. I bought mine new from Audi and always had it service by the main stealer so Audi UK reimbursed me for the cost of the repair. If the car has been serviced at your local Kwikfit you may not be so lucky, well worth giving Audi UK a try though. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I thought that might have been wishful thinking! My TT is 6 years old, always been serviced at main Audi stealers, but different ones. So no loyalty with my local Spire franchise, which I use for my A6. Having said that, I've been using this garage for 8 years for the A6 (from new) so perhaps that might charm them...ok, it's a different car but it's the same loyal customer... Worth a go, I suppose. But the window's working fine now...typical! I need it to totally break now.....!


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> The second Don said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> illingn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I've read most of the articles and the skidmark site, but I cannot see any that definitively, officially that says Audi will foot the bill. I could be being blind though...!
> 
> 
> 
> They don't, they treat each one on a case by case basis. I bought mine new from Audi and always had it service by the main stealer so Audi UK reimbursed me for the cost of the repair. If the car has been serviced at your local Kwikfit you may not be so lucky, well worth giving Audi UK a try though. Good luck.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought that might have been wishful thinking! My TT is 6 years old, always been serviced at main Audi stealers, but different ones. So no loyalty with my local Spire franchise, which I use for my A6. Having said that, I've been using this garage for 8 years for the A6 (from new) so perhaps that might charm them...ok, it's a different car but it's the same loyal customer... Worth a go, I suppose. But the window's working fine now...typical! I need it to totally break now.....!
Click to expand...

It won't matter if you have used different main stealers just as long as they are Audi. When the window regulator fails completely, and it will, any contribution towards the cost you negotiate will ultimately be pick up by Audi Uk and not the franchise anyway.


----------



## illingn

I'm beginning to wonder if it is my regulator. I'm getting a bit braver playing with the window, this is what's happening.

When window open, if I pull the switch all the way (to try automatic full close), the window goes up an inch and then returns to full open. It's as if it's hit an obstruction. But if I pull the switch just half way then the window will go up a bit and stop so what I do is keep flicking the switch up,up,up, up and eventually the window closes! When this happens the automatic full open or close (i.e. press or pull the button fully) just doesn't work in either direction.

Then, when I do a "reset", (close the window and then pull the switch up for 5 seconds etc), it all starts to work again....for a day or so.

There's no grinding or crunching noises, though perhaps this happened with the previous owner, which is why they decided to get rid...?!

Thanks for all the posts guys, I've read every single one and will have a word with the dealer in Friday...when it goes in for a new cam belt and water pump...my poor wallet...!


----------



## illingn

Just an update on this. I got the cambelt and water cooler changed today and asked the garage to "play" with the window. They think it's the motor overheating (a thermal cutout), and not the regulator. They recommended changing the regulator at same time though as motor, total price £327. It seems I can't claim on Audi to cover any cost since it's probably not the regulator... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> Just an update on this. I got the cambelt and water cooler changed today and asked the garage to "play" with the window. They think it's the motor overheating (a thermal cutout), and not the regulator. They recommended changing the regulator at same time though as motor, total price £327. It seems I can't claim on Audi to cover any cost since it's probably not the regulator... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


And what do you think could possibly be causing the motor to overheat? I'll give you one guess........................


----------



## naughts4187

It's the regulator 100%. 
Write to Audi UK.
Await a response from the dealer.


----------



## illingn

naughts4187 said:


> It's the regulator 100%.
> Write to Audi UK.
> Await a response from the dealer.


The weird thing is since I've got it back from the dealers it's been behaving absolutely perfectly! I'm no mechanic but I'm pretty sure a cam belt change wouldn't fix the window, so I'll get straight onto Audi when it starts to play up again!

Cheers.


----------



## illingn

RESULT!!

I called Audi UK, they confirmed they sent a communication out on Monday (14th July 2014) to all dealers that they'll reimburse the cost to fix the window regulator. I then called my local dealer and, after some checking, they've confirmed it too. So, I've booked it in.

So, all done. I love this forum!!


----------



## Livlifetothemax

Livlifetothemax said:


> naughts4187 said:
> 
> 
> 
> TAKE NOTE PEOPLE.
> 
> Audi UK are now replacing regulators FOC. They won't directly admit there is a problem but they are making dealers offer FOC when you have 1 to repair.
> Myself and another forum member have this happen in the past week and this thread backs up why http://skiddmark.com/2012/05/puttin...di-responds-to-the-tt-window-regulator-issue/.
> 
> Get onto Audi UK people!
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'll have to! My second one has just gone in the space of 6 weeks!
Click to expand...

Faith in Audi restored!

Dropped head office a note detailing the issue and listing out all the work I've had done at Audi since having the car to ask for them to consider my loyalty. Got a call off them asking for a copy of the receipts and they will give me a full refund on the regulator work.

The refund is coming from Audi centrally, so I'd be interested to see what the dealer does with it.


----------



## adamccc

TT RS owner here - My driver side went Friday night, went into Audi first thing Saturday morning ready to have a little go after having EVERYONE of the Audi's I've owned regulators fail on me, loyal customer, them wanting me to buy a MKIII in the future etc etc etc....

Didn't even get to rant as the lady said they had an email about 5 week ago regarding the regulators in the MKII and they'd sort it out free of charge - not crazily happy about it having to have another one repaired in the first place but at least I'm not getting stung over unfit for purpose parts!


----------



## adamccc

Quick Update: WIndow regulator was replaced today - took ages but completely free of charge


----------



## illingn

you're lucky! I had mine replaced a few days and I've still got the same problem!! The window goes up an inch and then descends automatically unless I repeatedly pull the switch up! Dealer tells me it must be the motor and that won't be a free replacement... :-( I might decide to live with it.


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> you're lucky! I had mine replaced a few days and I've still got the same problem!! The window goes up an inch and then descends automatically unless I repeatedly pull the switch up! Dealer tells me it must be the motor and that won't be a free replacement... :-( I might decide to live with it.


I'd challenge the dealer on that if I were you. My regulator went and caused the motor to burn out, both were replaced FOC.


----------



## illingn

I may struggle on a 6yr old car...but I guess it's worth a go. Trouble is that the motor isn't burned out though, it's fine as long as I keep pulling the switch up. It's just the first 1 inch usually when engine is off... It really doesn't sound like the motor is struggling at all. If I put my hand in the way it would chop it right off...!


----------



## Hoggy

illingn said:


> I may struggle on a 6yr old car...but I guess it's worth a go. Trouble is that the motor isn't burned out though, it's fine as long as I keep pulling the switch up. It's just the first 1 inch usually when engine is off... It really doesn't sound like the motor is struggling at all. If I put my hand in the way it would chop it right off...!


Hi, Have you tried a window reset.
Normal procedure is Door open, Ign on, engine running is better as battery at full volts.
Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds.
Repeat more than once.
Hoggy


----------



## The second Don

illingn said:


> I may struggle on a 6yr old car...but I guess it's worth a go. Trouble is that the motor isn't burned out though, it's fine as long as I keep pulling the switch up. It's just the first 1 inch usually when engine is off... It really doesn't sound like the motor is struggling at all. If I put my hand in the way it would chop it right off...!


Mine's a 2007 plate so don't let the age of the car put you off. As has been posted previously in this thread, it you don't get any joy from the dealer contact Audi UK and state your case.


----------



## illingn

I've tried the resetting. Dealer told me about having engine running too, that does seem to work better. But I hadn't heard about having the door open...I'll give that a go too. Funny thing is, it doesn't happen all the time...after a reset things are good for a while. In fact I think things stay good until I try to close the window when engine is off, then gets stuck and I have the do the reset.

The mechanic thinks the "internal current consumption monitor of the window motor ECU is failing" which causes the ECU to think the window has an obstruction. Note no blame on the regulator....!

But the dealer has been very good, quickly replying to my email and seem very helpful...but no offer to do swap motor for free!


----------



## johnleett

Well my passenger side went today on my 2009 roadster, thankfully I purchased a years warranty so it was fixed same day under said warranty.

Can't believe this passed Audi QC

Phew!!!!


----------



## illingn

A wise move...!

My window is still really bugging me. These are the instructions from the dealer's mechanic..
"It may be worth trying to re-adapt the motor and ECU, this is best done with the engine running, and you will need to fully close the window and release then pull switch to the closed position for 10 seconds, then fully open the window, release the switch again and then hold back in the open position for 10 seconds, then repeat the closed procedure and hold closed for 10 seconds.

This may resolve the issue, but if it returns then I would suggest it will require a motor unit."

This clears the problem for about a week or so. But when the fault comes back, the window won't move up those few mm when I close the door...I wonder if water can get in then...?

Anyway, looking on the bright side, with winter definitely on the way, I suppose I won't be using the window too much!


----------



## pattb

Mine seems to have gone here. Drivers Window won't go up. No place open til Monday. Worried


----------



## pattb

In Audi now getting it fixed. Gotta love the free coffee and pastries


----------



## illingn

Was the fixing free too?!


----------



## top snagger

I have a 58 plate TT which recently developed a fault with the passenger window. It was picked up as faulty by the Audi technician servicing it last week.

I started looking at options (i.e Ebay kits etc) but came across this forum topic which appears to have some success stories, therefore I rang my local dealer and asked if they would look into the possibility of rectifying the problem in conjunction with Audi UK.

1 hour later, I just received a call saying they will rectify it for free and it is now booked in...  

Thank you Audi Macclesfield & TT Forum


----------



## Auditt1987

Mine went last night on the way home, went straight to the local garage and they was pretty helpful, managed to get the window back up for the time being. Over a week wait if i wanted a car for the day but agreed to take me to and from work tomorrow and there fix it then. All done under warranty, so far so good...


----------



## TortToise

My driver's side has finally gone (was expecting to get failures sooner or later as it's such a common problem). Luckily I can get the window up by hand but it's a pain as I don't feel confidant driving any great distance or on an M-way.

Luckily I have an extended warranty which should cover the actual fix but the local dealership wants to carry out an 'fault diagnosis' check prior to fixing (basically to tell me that my window has stopped working) which will cost £80, not covered by warranty (I think). :twisted:

What a load of cobblers. The ridiculous amount of _extra _costs that seem to mount up every time I take it in for something - on top of already pretty high charges for regular work - are really making me rethink whether or not I want to stay with Audi for my next car.


----------



## Auditt1987

Thats crazy, is that an audi dealership garage, i took mine in and as soon as i described the noise they knew straight away, all done under warranty without a charge.


----------



## neilneil2000

I have a 57 plate and have the issue with the whistling as the windows don't shut tight (been like it for about 2 years now).

I have read through this thread - are people on these older cars getting it done for free???


----------



## Myttrocks

neilneil2000 said:


> I have a 57 plate and have the issue with the whistling as the windows don't shut tight (been like it for about 2 years now).
> 
> I have read through this thread - are people on these older cars getting it done for free???


Whistling can be sorted by minor adjustments. Details posted a few pages ago. Audi would not do that for free.

As for failed window regulators, Audi may replace FOC if you have mostly/some Audi service history.


----------



## Jamo8

My passenger side went on Friday, drivers went in 2012,contacted Audi Customer Care via public Twitter account, case manager rang me and contacted my local dealer, they are going to do the repair Free of Charge :-o due to customer loyalty,mine is a 2007 Roadster, to be honest I am still a bit gobsmacked. Car is booked in for Friday [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## mwad

Jamo8 said:


> My passenger side went on Friday, drivers went in 2012,contacted Audi Customer Care via public Twitter account, case manager rang me and contacted my local dealer, they are going to do the repair Free of Charge :-o due to customer loyalty,mine is a 2007 Roadster, to be honest I am still a bit gobsmacked. Car is booked in for Friday [smiley=gossip.gif]


That's good service


----------



## Templar

Wonder if the mk3 TT will suffer the same regulator gremlins ?


----------



## Jamo8

mwad said:


> Jamo8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My passenger side went on Friday, drivers went in 2012,contacted Audi Customer Care via public Twitter account, case manager rang me and contacted my local dealer, they are going to do the repair Free of Charge :-o due to customer loyalty,mine is a 2007 Roadster, to be honest I am still a bit gobsmacked. Car is booked in for Friday [smiley=gossip.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> That's good service
Click to expand...

It just got better my dealer with the help of Audi Customer Care has agreed to re-emburse me for the drivers side in 2012


----------



## Mattchris

Jamo8 said:


> My passenger side went on Friday, drivers went in 2012,contacted Audi Customer Care via public Twitter account, case manager rang me and contacted my local dealer, they are going to do the repair Free of Charge :-o due to customer loyalty,mine is a 2007 Roadster, to be honest I am still a bit gobsmacked. Car is booked in for Friday [smiley=gossip.gif]


When my drivers side went when it was 4yrs 5m old, customer loyalty got me about £30 reduction in the final bill (£280 down to £250). "No sir, its not a common problem...", then when the mechanic came out to "secure" it, he said "you would have thought they would have fixed this issue by now...".

This was the final straw with Bradford Audi (they scratched my leather seat when in for an MOT a few months earlier and didnt fix it), where up until this point (Aug 13) I had it serviced, mot'd etc.

In the end I fixed the damn regulator myself using a kit from electricwindowrepairs.

Then around June '14, the passenger side went too.

Both windows I have fixed with the kit and they are doing fine...


----------



## Mattchris

Jamo8 said:


> mwad said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jamo8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My passenger side went on Friday, drivers went in 2012,contacted Audi Customer Care via public Twitter account, case manager rang me and contacted my local dealer, they are going to do the repair Free of Charge :-o due to customer loyalty,mine is a 2007 Roadster, to be honest I am still a bit gobsmacked. Car is booked in for Friday [smiley=gossip.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> That's good service
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It just got better my dealer with the help of Audi Customer Care has agreed to re-emburse me for the drivers side in 2012
Click to expand...

Hmm... I wonder if they'll reimbourse the kit I got from electricwindowrepairs and of course the afternoon it took for me to fix it!!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## 1monty

Hi All,
My drivers side window has just started squeaking when lowering & raising. Is this the start of window regulator failure?
Car is a 2.0 coupe, less than 2 years old, 10000 on the clock & still in warranty.
Cheers.


----------



## Myttrocks

1monty said:


> Hi All,
> My drivers side window has just started squeaking when lowering & raising. Is this the start of window regulator failure?
> Car is a 2.0 coupe, less than 2 years old, 10000 on the clock & still in warranty.
> Cheers.


It's more of a crunchy sound and/or jerky movement than a squeak.


----------



## 1monty

> Myttrocks said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1monty said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> My drivers side window has just started squeaking when lowering & raising. Is this the start of window regulator failure?
> Car is a 2.0 coupe, less than 2 years old, 10000 on the clock & still in warranty.
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> 
> It's more of a crunchy sound and/or jerky movement than a squeak.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So has anybody had the squeaking noise & what is it?
Cheers.


----------



## mrfrost1982

My drivers side window today has stopped going up and down, I presume this is the regulator?

Only had the car a few weeks, bought private and no warranty. It does have full service history (half of it at Audi) The regulator has been changed before looking at the receipts several years ago.

How much am I looking at to get it fixed?

Car is turning into a money pit already, had a puncture 2 weeks after getting the car and then had a massive stone hit the windscreen and that is getting replaced today.


----------



## mrfrost1982

My local dealer have offered to pay for the repair. Didn't even have to ask. Result!


----------



## datamonkey

My passenger side regulator is going so I contacted Audi Customer support as outlined on here after having no joy at my local dealership in Tunbridge Wells who said they would need to officially diagnose the issue first at a cost of £79.

Audi support replied to my email by saying the exact same thing:

"_In order for us to be able to investigate this further, we would require that an Approved Audi Centre carries out an inspection of the vehicle. This is to ensure that the issue is diagnosed correctly and that the appropriate advice is offered._"

From what I've read on here this has not been the case for others and many seem to be getting there's fixed outright with no issues from Audi? I don't see how they can treat customers differently seeing as we all have the same issue on the same car. If it's a faulty product and they repair some people's for free, surely they have to do the same for everybody?

Maybe I'm jumping the gun and they will fix mine also but from their first reply I'm not feeling too confident...


----------



## Matt68

My passenger side regulator went 3 days after I got the car.


----------



## ash1970

Maidstone did mine the other week for free.

After checking I still had 6 months warranty left.

Which begs the question "WHY" are people being offered this for free? It's a £500 repair.


----------



## Jako999

Is this a regulator problem? The car is a TTS and still in warranty only covered 2500 miles but before I call the dealer I want all he info, the drivers window is hit or miss most of the time its fine but then sometimes it doesnt drop when you open it or if it does when you shut it it doesnt close, if you put it all the way down and try to put it up it just comes up a couple of inches stops or stops and goes back down then the other day I went to put the roof up the windows dropped as they should half way the roof closed and locked passenger window came up great but the drivers one went down fully open. As I said it only every now and then but now its starting to get to me and when you lock and walk away from the car you end up walking back just in case the window has played up.

Thanks in advance


----------



## jamkaw

Is it common for audi to need to do a diagnosis check before replacing a part? Currently in dispute with warranty company about it.....


----------



## datamonkey

jamkaw said:


> Is it common for audi to need to do a diagnosis check before replacing a part? Currently in dispute with warranty company about it.....


I'm not sure if it's the norm but that's exactly what Audi UK have told me to do - go and get an official diagnostic from the local Audi garage and then they will decide in whether there will be goodwill towards it. Here is their actual email about it I received today:



AUDI UK said:


> I would recommend contacting your local Audi Centre who will be able to discuss with you the price of diagnosing the fault with your vehicle.
> 
> Once diagnostic work has been completed, your local Audi Centre is empowered by Audi UK to investigate any possible goodwill contribution to the repair cost needed.


I presume the way they decide whether any goodwill payment will be made is if the car is serviced by them, if not I feel they will not offer it as it shows disloyalty as some have mentioned previously!? What a load of BS...

It's simple really - I am a loyal customer as I HAVE ONE OF THEIR EFFING CARS! I could easily have a BMW, Jag, Vauxhall etc - It should be irrelevant where the car is serviced, after all that's our choice, not theirs. It's our car, not theirs. This behaviour has a sniff of blackmail to it, "_Please service your car with us otherwise we won't help you in the future!_"

Anyway enough ranting. I get the impression they are asking for a diagnostic so they can charge us £70-£90 for bugger all which they may lose out on if they offer us goodwill...

I've replied to Audi UK and will post reply here when I get a response...


----------



## strick206

Hello,

I think we are suffering with this problem but ours is only just starting.

The drivers side window is on its way out i think, it is making a strange noise when lowering and sometimes it wont raise

I spoke with Audi UK today and they will not discuss the repair unless its been on the diagnostics at a local Audi Garage. After going into my local garage i have been told they charge £150 an hour for the diagnostic which is ridiculous.

They also provided me with the following

£150 inc. VAT for an hours diagnostics, then 2 hours labour to repair at £150 an hour, plus the regulator is £134 and if the motor is on the way out too it's another £222.

A nice £806 bill, i am hoping to get Audi UK to pay for it as others have done but did you have to pay for the hours diagnostic before hand? £150 an hour labour fees is astonishing but i guess they can charge whatever they like.

The technician i spoke to was quite helpful and he did seem fully aware of the problem but he did say they wont pay for it if the car is out of warranty.

I find it really frustrating to have to pay £150 to confirm that i have the problem many other people have experienced, it's quite a lot of money to be wasting.

They have stated that i will only pay for how long it takes but i'm cynical and am not convinced they will charge me half if it only takes 30 minutes, i'm tempted to completely strip down the door ready for them to do it to try and save some money

Do you get the diagnostic fee back if it is confirmed to be the regulator issue?

Thanks

Gary


----------



## mrfrost1982

The service I had from Audi Doncaster was outstanding.
I called them and booked car in with suspected regulator failing on driver side, they said as it had been serviced by Audi at its last service, they wouldn't chaarge for the repiar (even though i didn't own the car when it was last serviced)

Turned out it wasn't the regulator but the motor, they still did the repiar free of charge.


----------



## Jamo8

Hi Datamonkey I didn't get any joy via email to Audi Uk or Audi Customer Support i got my result via Twitter with Audi Customer Care, I tweeted about how dissapointed I was with the regulator situation. Seemed like Audi didnt like their name being blackened publicly. Give it a go via Twitter you will have to then send your contact details via email or direct message, I know at least one who has got a result via this route since mine.


----------



## datamonkey

Jamo8 said:


> Hi Datamonkey I didn't get any joy via email to Audi Uk or Audi Customer Support i got my result via Twitter with Audi Customer Care, I tweeted about how dissapointed I was with the regulator situation. Seemed like Audi didnt like their name being blackened publicly. Give it a go via Twitter you will have to then send your contact details via email or direct message, I know at least one who has got a result via this route since mine.


Hi Jamo,

That's a great idea. I'll give it a go. What did your message say that got their attention? Also did you use any particular hashtags?

Cheers! :wink:


----------



## Jamo8

Hi mate Tweet @AudiUKCare .... I put on that I was tamping another regulator had failed and was going to have to fork out a lot of money to fix it. They came back to me via Twitter asking me to email them my details, a case manager was assigned to me and rang me to chat through things. He contacted my dealer who in course contacted me. I paid no diagnostic check and nothing for the regulator they even re embursed me for the one I had fixed in 2012. Not ideal they should acknowledge this fault mate but worth a try
Jamo


----------



## weeman69

Just to add my situation. 2009 TTS with Audi FSH ( local dealer mostly) Drivers side window started making some intermittent crunching noises when lowering/raising window. Knew straight away what was happening thanks to this Forum.
Local dealer hummed & hawed even when I argued the "known fault" "design flaw" points.
A bit of horse trading later & I had it at drivers side free & passenger side as a precaution @ 70% discount.
When I. Picked up the car I was informed that following further communication from Audi UK, there was nothing to pay.
Stick in there, be firm, polite and assertive, there might be hope. 
I know this is on a case by case basis, but if your dealer has been servicing, looking after your car then I can't see how they can treat customers differently, as this decision is essentially coming from Audi UK.
Good luck, & just for the record, my drivers door lock mechanism has just shat itself. ... Mmmmmm


----------



## V2AAA

.


----------



## datamonkey

Jamo8 said:


> Hi mate Tweet @AudiUKCare .... I put on that I was tamping another regulator had failed and was going to have to fork out a lot of money to fix it. They came back to me via Twitter asking me to email them my details, a case manager was assigned to me and rang me to chat through things. He contacted my dealer who in course contacted me. I paid no diagnostic check and nothing for the regulator they even re embursed me for the one I had fixed in 2012. Not ideal they should acknowledge this fault mate but worth a try
> Jamo


I got a response through Twitter and have emailed them. Will let you know the outcome but so far your plan is working. Thanks!


----------



## datamonkey

weeman69 said:


> Just to add my situation. 2009 TTS with Audi FSH ( local dealer mostly) Drivers side window started making some intermittent crunching noises when lowering/raising window. Knew straight away what was happening thanks to this Forum.
> Local dealer hummed & hawed even when I argued the "known fault" "design flaw" points.
> A bit of horse trading later & I had it at drivers side free & passenger side as a precaution @ 70% discount.
> When I. Picked up the car I was informed that following further communication from Audi UK, there was nothing to pay.
> Stick in there, be firm, polite and assertive, there might be hope.
> I know this is on a case by case basis, but if your dealer has been servicing, looking after your car then I can't see how they can treat customers differently, as this decision is essentially coming from Audi UK.
> Good luck, & just for the record, my drivers door lock mechanism has just shat itself. ... Mmmmmm


Good work there mate, glad you got it sorted.

I agree with you in that I don't see how they can treat customers with the same problem differently. It should be the same across the board irrespective of where we get our cars serviced. After all we're all Audi customers and should have freedom of choice in what we do with our possessions.

My car has about 50/50 Audi servicing so not sure where I stand but will keep at it!


----------



## WW69

My passenger side died this week while in the Dealers when they were looking at other issues


----------



## Ikon66

widow went down today and wont go back up, with some very dodgy sounds :roll: luckily I have a garage, gonna try dealer in the AM but not optimistic. Anyone had any luck with wearside audi?


----------



## Templar

For people who haven't seen the YouTube vid on how to repair a regulator please see below:

How to repair Audi TT MK 2 electric window regulator:


----------



## 71309

I heard a noise like I was screwing up a plastic bottle while operating the offside window last night. I'm waiting to hear back from a VW Group specialist with a quote.

Wish me luck.


----------



## craigttp

great,. my drivers side has broken again for the second time.

spoken with manchester audi who claim that this is not a known fault.

price for the regulator and fitting has been quoted at £307.04

that's over £500 now for the driver side window....with the passenger side still to be replaced so could go at any time.


----------



## datamonkey

Jamo8 said:


> Hi Datamonkey I didn't get any joy via email to Audi Uk or Audi Customer Support i got my result via Twitter with Audi Customer Care, I tweeted about how dissapointed I was with the regulator situation. Seemed like Audi didnt like their name being blackened publicly. Give it a go via Twitter you will have to then send your contact details via email or direct message, I know at least one who has got a result via this route since mine.


Jamo8,

I'm happy to report that your process tweeting Audi UK has also worked for me too! Thanks for the idea mate and if anyone else is struggling to get Audi to repair theirs FoC then try this route.

After tweeting Audi UK I had a response within about an hour. Once I'd emailed them as requested I then had a long conversation with one of the reps there explaining the situation and asking about the car etc. This all happened within hours of my original tweet.

The lady I spoke to was very polite, professional and courteous and basically told me that I would need an official diagnosis of the regulator by an Audi dealership. This is £72 but not payable if they agree to a goodwill payment, should it be a positive diagnosis.

I booked the car in for an intermittent service and brake fluid change, both of which needed doing as well as the regulator diagnosis today. Dropped it off at 9am and was only expecting them to call to tell me the service had been done and that the reg was buggered, however I was pleasantly surprised to hear that not only had the regulator been diagnosed but it had already been fixed free of charge! Sweet.

So for just over £200 I had the health check, brake fluid, service, valet and new regulator. I'm a happy man. Faith restored in Audi.

Like I said if anyone is having issues getting Audi to budge, try Twitter... 8)


----------



## Jamo8

Hi Datamonkey 
That's great news mate glad it worked out for you :wink: 
Jamo


----------



## spud_989

My TTRS had its driver's side regulator replaced at Audi Doncaster FOC after they contacted Audi. 59 plate, went at about 61k miles, but only owned the car since 59k.


----------



## zip it

Looks like it's my turn now. Passenger side window went down ok, then half way up it decided to stop. Had to manually lift up the glass and secure it with tape - hopefully I can get it in the garage this week [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## zip it

Got mine into SJB Autotech first thing Monday morning - at first it needed a new regulator, but having put the car back together they had problems with the motor, a new motor was also needed [smiley=bigcry.gif] Got the car back all fixed this evening.

Once again a great job from SJB - one of the best garages I've ever used.

Need to start saving for the drivers side now :?


----------



## weefeather83

My regulator on the nearside door went last week. Went to Audi (Edinburgh) the next day and while they couldnt take my car in until the start of this week, the service adviser checked straight away and told me because it was a known problem on that year/model and that I had a full Audi service history that it would be foc. Hopefully that's a precedent now for Audi dealerships up and down the country. Certainly was a relief for me and now I can relax about my driver side window regulator whenever it decides to pack up too!


----------



## J22kog

Our passenger window drops a few mm when driving especially getting upto speed, is this the same problem? I'm just going to buy the repair cable off ebay if that's all I need if someone can confirm? Thanks


----------



## tttony

VERY pleased with Southampton Audi. Booked the car in for a £159 interim service and mentioned that the NS window regulator was failing. The regulator has been replaced FOC under goodwill. No diagnostic fee, no referring to Audi UK and no quibble.

My TT is 2008, 46,000mls. The car was originally supplied by Audi Southampton but the first owner got it serviced by an independent. I am the second owner and this was the first service that I have needed and so no "loyalty" record.

I even got picked up in a red Mk3 TT to collect my car.

All in all, very impressed.


----------



## Dreago

Just had my passenger side window regulator changed. Audi UK have a warranty/policy to replace them on 2007, 2008 and 2009 models as a goodwill gesture.


----------



## tttony

Hi Dreago, have you been told by Audi that that is now officially Audi UKs position? The experience of posters to this topic seems to be very varied.


----------



## Dreago

Hi ttony, 
I was sceptical when I took the car in after reading certain posts on here.

I was very hot on the rep with his choice of words. This was the chap from Audi in Tunbridge Wells not Audi UK. 
He said that it will be covered by Audi warranty as they have reviewed this issue and Audi came up with a policy to fix it foc on 07,08 and 09 TT models. I did wonder at the time if he should be saying this as at no point did he say that it was a one off or as I am a valued customer. He told me when I dropped the car off before they had even diagnosed it that it would be fixed under their warranty.

I even asked about my other window as when one goes the other tends to follow. He said that it has to be broken before they can fix it, which is fair enough. 
Audi UK then phoned me after just to push it all through and close the ticket. 
Hope this helps.

G


----------



## anthony007

Had the drivers window go in my 58 Plate TT - Took it to Chingford Audi for them to resolve, telling them the issue is all over the internet and people are getting them fixed. Later that day had a call to say that AUDI would not goodwill it, and the cost to replace was £615.

Anyway - a email to audi customer services later and the windows was repaired FOC. Upon collecting the car the service manager said that he didnt know that there was a goodwill cover on these and will be repaired free. Also said the passenger side will be covered if it goes.

Not happy i had to complain to get it resolved, but its sorted now so happy ending.


----------



## surfermc

I didn't know there was any goodwill offer from Audi on Window Regulators. I just took to Yeovil Audi to get it fixed and had a pleasant surprise when I came to pay the bill


----------



## Ttyson

Had that familiar noise today - 55 miles from home - NS window will not rise - at least the sun was shining!
Audi want £60 diagnostic to look at it and then will look at goodwill. I ran Audi UK and got the same story. I will see how it goes next week when I get the call - I have my 441 twitter followers primed and at the ready!


----------



## lac

I also had a terrible noise today from passenger window, I got home and stripped off door card and other bits to find the cable all chewed up. I rang Audi UK who told me that my Audi Dealer would need to diagnose the problem before they would concider any goodwill even then he said its a case by case basis. I got 2007 57 2.0 with Full Audi Service History and only 29,000 on the clock. I managed to get my Audi Dealer to take a quick look today as i allready had the door casd off, And they have confirmed it is the regulator and they had tp cut the cable to get the window back up. I have to wait now until tomorrow when they ring Audi UK to see if i can have goodwill. If not ill be DIYing it.


----------



## Templar

Somethings have been altered on the later mk2's in the fact that below a certain temperature or resistance where the car thinks the door glass is frozen it did not let me wind the window down. Now bare in mind the glass dropped by 1/2" or so when I opened the door to get in and the fact that what frost was on the glass was soft enough to easily move around with my fingers before I opened the door.
Not sure what changes or when they have been made since owning my 2008 model.


----------



## lac

lac said:


> I also had a terrible noise today from passenger window, I got home and stripped off door card and other bits to find the cable all chewed up. I rang Audi UK who told me that my Audi Dealer would need to diagnose the problem before they would concider any goodwill even then he said its a case by case basis. I got 2007 57 2.0 with Full Audi Service History and only 29,000 on the clock. I managed to get my Audi Dealer to take a quick look today as i allready had the door casd off, And they have confirmed it is the regulator and they had tp cut the cable to get the window back up. I have to wait now until tomorrow when they ring Audi UK to see if i can have goodwill. If not ill be DIYing it.


Just got a voicemail from my Audi Dealer and the car is all booked in for Monday to have the regulator replaced free of charge as a good will gesture as the age of my car comes under there replacement campaign.


----------



## TZL10

Just had to pay £300 for driver's side regulator. Ok car is 8 years old - but this does need sorting. I have two TTs so do I need to budget for 3 more to go!


----------



## Ttyson

Ttyson said:


> Had that familiar noise today - 55 miles from home - NS window will not rise - at least the sun was shining!
> Audi want £60 diagnostic to look at it and then will look at goodwill. I ran Audi UK and got the same story. I will see how it goes next week when I get the call - I have my 441 twitter followers primed and at the ready!


Long story short. Audi UK offered dealer some good will. Dealer has not seen my car for many years and not since its been with me so would not offer goodwill. I was asked by Audi UK that if I paid for a service they would do repair FOC but my car has only just been serviced, so I said I could pay now and get the service next year when due but the dealer warranty manager turned this down.

It got escalated to a case manager at Audi UK but would take 48 hrs to get back to me so I rang the dealer direct. The service guy had a word with his warranty manager and agreed if I bought a service plan (so in effect bought forward my goodwill) they would do the repair FOC so I did that. My next service in 2016 is a major, so I paid for their major/minor plan for £299 for the 2 services to be taken at my leisure.

So in effect I feel I either got a £305 repair FOC and bought a £299 service plan (which I would need anyway at some point) or had a £299 repair and got 2 services thrown in. Which ever way, I feel I haven't lost face as I would need to pay for services and indy's wouldn't be such cheaper for a major/minor deal. On an 07 reg car with no recent dealer history I think I have to be happy.

So it seems if you are a customer the dealer will bend, if you haven' they won't but a lot seems to be local decision making and Audi UK don't just pay up as policy.


----------



## tim_s

My O/S window went last night.

Ordered a kit from Alan at Electric Window Repairs for £40 this morning and, after having a quick chat on the phone, I'm hoping it'll arrive tomorrow so I can fit it over the weekend. The video looks genuinely useful and Alan seems like a nice guy.

Why didn't I go the FOC route? I don't get my car serviced at the stealers as my experience wasn't that great in the times I did use them, and thus prefer my indie. I can't be arsed messing around with this when the fix looks simple enough and Audi can sod off if I'm paying £90 for a diagnosis before I'll even know if they're going to think about fixing it FOC. I can fix both for the cost of one diagnosis.


----------



## mk1f4n

Mine went last week, All done by Southampton Audi free of charge under a good will gesture


----------



## MT-V6

Are the replacement parts updated to provent the same happening again?


----------



## paulpod

Just a note that I have a similar story to Ttyson above - Audi had not seen my car for a dealer service for 100k (!) so automatic FoC fix not forthcoming, but advance purchase of a major service made it possible. Not ideal, but as above I think this is an OK outcome for me. Not far off a (long-life) service I think, and last one in the book was minor. Timing was a factor for me, so if you had time for horse trading or DIY, that might be better for you.


----------



## Templar

MarkTickner said:


> Are the replacement parts updated to provent the same happening again?


I think there has been some minor changes made over the later years but only time will tell if they've worked.


----------



## AaronWhite

Dreago said:


> Hi ttony,
> I was sceptical when I took the car in after reading certain posts on here.
> 
> I was very hot on the rep with his choice of words. This was the chap from Audi in Tunbridge Wells not Audi UK.
> He said that it will be covered by Audi warranty as they have reviewed this issue and Audi came up with a policy to fix it foc on 07,08 and 09 TT models. I did wonder at the time if he should be saying this as at no point did he say that it was a one off or as I am a valued customer. He told me when I dropped the car off before they had even diagnosed it that it would be fixed under their warranty.
> 
> I even asked about my other window as when one goes the other tends to follow. He said that it has to be broken before they can fix it, which is fair enough.
> Audi UK then phoned me after just to push it all through and close the ticket.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> G


Hi,

Does my 2010 Roadster have a better / modified design regulator or is this all something to look forward to?

Thanks


----------



## steve99w

Something to look forward to.... unfortunately


----------



## AaronWhite

steve99w said:


> Something to look forward to.... unfortunately


 :? Not quite the answer I wanted but your honesty speaks volumes... I vote you go to work on the Audi warranty approval board and get all TT owners the regulator they deserve :lol: 8) :mrgreen:


----------



## Templar

AaronWhite said:


> Dreago said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi ttony,
> I was sceptical when I took the car in after reading certain posts on here.
> 
> I was very hot on the rep with his choice of words. This was the chap from Audi in Tunbridge Wells not Audi UK.
> He said that it will be covered by Audi warranty as they have reviewed this issue and Audi came up with a policy to fix it foc on 07,08 and 09 TT models. I did wonder at the time if he should be saying this as at no point did he say that it was a one off or as I am a valued customer. He told me when I dropped the car off before they had even diagnosed it that it would be fixed under their warranty.
> 
> I even asked about my other window as when one goes the other tends to follow. He said that it has to be broken before they can fix it, which is fair enough.
> Audi UK then phoned me after just to push it all through and close the ticket.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> G
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does my 2010 Roadster have a better / modified design regulator or is this all something to look forward to?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

I do believe Audi have made some subtle changes, whether it be the running gear and electronics or just the electronics because my 64 plate operates slightly different to my earlier58 plate TTR.


----------



## Hadaak

This thread is so long so pardon me not going through it all. My driver side window is behaving a bit strange these days. I goes down fine but is having difficulties going up. I even had to use my hand and help it go up. Is this a symptom of a failing regulator or motor?


----------



## Templar

Hadaak said:


> This thread is so long so pardon me not going through it all. My driver side window is behaving a bit strange these days. I goes down fine but is having difficulties going up. I even had to use my hand and help it go up. Is this a symptom of a failing regulator or motor?


Is it making a sort of craunching noise during operation ? If so it could very well be on its way out.


----------



## Hadaak

Yes. Like some rubber stuff caught in some rolling gear !!! Is changing the cable only easy like I saw in the guide? Otherwise I'll just buy the upgraded part (E) version.


----------



## Templar

Not done it personally but some find it a pain in the ass to do, others not so much. The setting up after fitting can be a bit tricky.


----------



## Hadaak

Ok thanks. I'll see what I can do. Maybe upgrading both regulators to have some peace of mind.


----------



## Templar

Yeah the upgraded parts that people have bought and fitted I believe have stainless steel cable which obviously will not rust as this seems to be one of the issues with the failing regs


----------



## Hadaak

So better avoid kits like these I guess. http://m.ebay.com/itm/221417751125?_trk ... 0408.m2460


----------



## Hadaak

Found the stainless cable here:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/200672062410?_mwBanner=1


----------



## Hadaak

And finally a custom kit:

http://www.electricwindowrepairs.co.uk/ ... s-36-p.asp


----------



## Hadaak

I ordered the custom kit. 57€ via paypal. Wait and see.


----------



## tim_s

Hadaak said:


> I ordered the custom kit. 57€ via paypal. Wait and see.


I used one of those to fix mine. Worked a treat.

The only hassle is getting the window alignment right, but I managed to fix the wind noise (which my indie garage had partially fixed) in the process so for me it was a double-win. Took me around 2 1/2 hours to get it all done, and that included fitting twice after not getting it right first time - a second pair of hands might be useful too.


----------



## Spotter9n

Hi all
Sorry to be a pain but there's 50 pages of scrolling and not enough time in the day lol.
Has anyone had the regulator go after the warranty has ran out? Mines an 08 and has just gone. Being an Engineer I was able to get the window back up but without the right parts I cant fix it.
I was just wondering if anyone got money off or the repair free after the warranty has ran out? I have been on the phone to Audi Bury st Edmund's and they wont do anything for me unless I pay the full 280! Which I believe to be daylight robbery as its a common fault.
Any help on this would be very much appreciated
Thanks
Simon


----------



## tttony

Hi, my TT is 08 too. Regulator was replaced FOC by Audi Southampton earlier yhis year when they did an oil change service. No previous service history with them and so I was very pleased.


----------



## Hadaak

tim_s said:


> Hadaak said:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered the custom kit. 57€ via paypal. Wait and see.
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of those to fix mine. Worked a treat.
> 
> The only hassle is getting the window alignment right, but I managed to fix the wind noise (which my indie garage had partially fixed) in the process so for me it was a double-win. Took me around 2 1/2 hours to get it all done, and that included fitting twice after not getting it right first time - a second pair of hands might be useful too.
Click to expand...

Did you have to remove the window glass? 
I'm doing it right now and according to elsa the glass should be removed !!!


----------



## Hadaak

Ok followed elsa instructions and removed the glass. Operation is still going on


----------



## tim_s

Hadaak said:


> Ok followed elsa instructions and removed the glass. Operation is still going on


Yep, Glass needs to be removed


----------



## Hadaak

Managed to get the regulator out. The cable is still holding but not for long I think. I found the root cause. In my case the cable rubs against the metal frame on three spots. I'm not putting it back like this. I noticed that on the other side where the cable does not rub it is still clean and healthy. So I'm going to remove the metal parts underneath the cable. I'll upload pics later. For me if you you put even an oem part with the same design you can be sure it will break in the near future. This is really an obvious design flaw, at least in my case. I will upload the part number later too.


----------



## Hadaak

I guess it lasted this long because I don't use the regulator too often. Most of the time the window is up. My TT is six years old. With frquent use the cable would be torn apart pretty quickly.


----------



## Hadaak

Since I removed the regulator before the cable snaps i don't think that the issue is due to the quality of the cable being it stainless steel or galvanized steel.unless the metal frame was bent due to tear and wear the cable is really rubbing hard against the metal frame and it is not a surprise that it starts tearing down so frequently. I guess most people have removed the cable after the failure and didn't have the chance to see how the cable was moving. And the strange thing is the cable is torn on the same side in all pictures i've seen. If i put a new stainless steel cable on the frame without adding a very small pulley in the center or just cutting the parts on which the current cable is rubbing the issue won't be fixed. So unless audi have changed the design even new oem parts will have the same issue. Mine is a 2009 model. And guys fitting a custom cable will have the same issue later on. Unless the right frame (french car driver side) on my regulator was bent under load in 6 years continuous rubbing is the only cause I see for this issue. The cable has even eaten away at the metal frame underneath. And the traces on the frame are not due to the partly torn cable. You can see the healthy side of the cable rubbing againt the metal frame too. Pics will follow. And I might be mistaken


----------



## Hadaak

getting worse. I haven't checked the pulley used by the window motor yet and yes thc cable is also almost gone around and near this pulley. I'm still convinced the issue is caused by continuous friction and rubbing again the frame on one side and the metal sheath of the cable near the motor pulley. the design of the left lower pulley is flawed. the cable has much more strain and is more twisted going to the motor pulley than the other three pulleys which have a straigt line from the pulley to the either the other side of the fame or the motor pulley. the cable is only torn apart on the twisted side and where it rubs against the frame. pics coming...


----------



## Hadaak

And I'm sure changing the cable will just buy time unless friction is solved by additional miniature pulleys which will require more cable length and will not work with a pre-cut assembled kit like the one I bought. But I'm going to try to optimize the setup anyway.


----------



## Hadaak

Managed to replace the cable. I modified one arm of the frame ( right one when mounted) to prevent the cable from rubbing against it. It took me some time to do a clean setup and to install the glass perfectly. I will post some notes and some pics. I even reproduced a case where the cable gets tangled inside the central wheel (the one connected to the motor) and i could hear the same sound when the cable was getting messed up. This is the common root cause I guess plus the one I noticed on mine where the cable on the right arm was also going to break due to continuous friction. Details about the central wheel issue later with pics.


----------



## Brayshaw

Having a bad day!..gets up this morning and my drivers side front tyre is almost flat with a huge screw stuck in it!...pretty close to the edge aswell so will probably need a new tyre!..then goes to get my car washed..puts window up and it starts to have a fit!...loads of crunching noises and the window wouldnt go up!...managed to get it up in the end but now its goosed!..guessing my regulator as given up on me!!


----------



## Hadaak

sorry man. you have two solutions: fight with audi or get a custom cable for 55€. it easy to do if your cable is not also rubbing against the metal frame of the regulator. you will have to open it up to check. if you take it to garage make sure they check wear and tear spots on the old cable other than the center wheel where the motor goes. the center wheel is where most people have had issues.


----------



## wallster

Mine went yesterday. Left hand side. Luckily I'm a mechanic so can fix it myself just need to get the part. If anyone lives near me in warwickshire and has had their regulator go l am happy to fix for free. Bring the part and it will be done in about an hour or less. The cable rusts and wears so l will be applying white lithium grease to the cable.

Just waiting for the right hand side to go now.


----------



## Hadaak

wallster said:


> Mine went yesterday. Left hand side. Luckily I'm a mechanic so can fix it myself just need to get the part. If anyone lives near me in warwickshire and has had their regulator go l am happy to fix for free. Bring the part and it will be done in about an hour or less. The cable rusts and wears so l will be applying white lithium grease to the cable.
> 
> Just waiting for the right hand side to go now.


I don't think it's rust. just read my posts and inspect the cable. I have another theory coming  with some pics


----------



## wallster

it might not be rust but mine was rusted all over the cable with a few wires which have snapped off and frayed which prevents them returning back into the cable. I can get the full kit from a supplier with motor for £75 trade price. Not keen on getting just the wire from ebay for £40. I havent removed it yet as will be doing it this weekend. I will read your posts now


----------



## Hadaak

And be careful when removing/reinstalling the glass. there is a piece of rubber on the front side (car body side) which holds the glass and which in my case fell down inside the door when I pulled the glass out. I found it by accident after installing the glass. It took me some time to realize what is was doing there. Before finding it I installed the glass without this rubber piece and was wondering why audi didn't add a rubber holder to protect the glass especially that on the other side there is a fixed (part of the regulator frame) one. I even drove around 80 km with the car without it. I found the piece of rubber when I was adjusting the glass as it was not closing completely. and this piece of rubber was in part responsible for this problem as, when installed, it helps with raising the glass a little bit too


----------



## TT-driver

Looking forward to your theory Hadaak  
I can't remember the cable touching any metal parts on mine.

I need to replace the passenger side soon as it's close to letting me (err the window) down. But I guess I can't complain, the cable is almost 9 years old. I may have used the window regulator only 9 times though....
I'll double check the situation and report back.


----------



## TT-driver

Checked the cable today... apart from a few minor rust spots it proved to be OK. The noises the regulator made were all due to sand and dirt. So cleaned it all. Put some teflon spray on the cable and checked it carefully while the regulator was removed from the door. After pulling the regulator up and down a few times it went a bit smoother again. So all is well. The cable doesn't touch the guides on mine, but it runs very close past it.

Two tips:

1) check the state of the wax in the lower seam of the door. It was hardened on mine so I replaced it. Rust is starting to creep underneath the paint. (9 years old, mostly parked outside) The rust will probably appear at the outside after the corrosion warranty expires.

2) mark the position of the window before removing it, both with the door closed as well as with the door open. Reconnect the regulator motor before putting it back onto the regulator. First thing it did was lowering the window as if the door had to be opened. So I had to align the window again. :x

But all is well now in the door. I'm really surprised that there was no rust and no fraying. The driver's side was completely rusted and frayed two years ago.


----------



## Adamzv2

My drive side window out of the blue went about 2/3 of the way up and would automatically go back down then it stopped working all together, brought it to a local garage for the gold as warranty, but had to go back as the window still does the same thing, also button "one press" stops working intermittently, the window seems to struggle from 2/3rds of the way up and can hear it almost scrapping against something inside... Then when I lock it from outside with the key, you know the way the window stops maybe half an inch from the top then goes up that wee bit extra after ? The driver side doesn't do that, and sits on quite a bit from the window frame... Garage said as warranty wouldn't let them use the Audi regulator but instead just a standard one, anyone had this issue ?????? Thanks in advance!


----------



## calumvs1

I just had the classic 'graunch noise, shudder and window gets stuck 1/6 way up'. Had to drive 120 miles with it like that.

Funny thing is, it's a window I hardly use; the passenger side one. £203 and I've found a soft Cd sized disc out ofnthe door, I think, that the garage didn't put back.

Had to join the regulator club eventually I guess.


----------



## wallster

Good news got a part from parkers parts in rugby £57 plus vat and fitted in one hour. I didn't read or follow any instructions as luckil I've done a fair few regulators in my years. Simple job. Slight adjustent at the end to get window to close 100% but all in all an easy job. Anyone need theirs doing and live near me in warwickshire I don't mind doing it but will cost you about £70 for the part. Pm me if you don't want to pay dealership prices although I can't offer a warranty on my work.


----------



## Ray667

wallster said:


> Good news got a part from parkers parts in rugby £57 plus vat and fitted in one hour. I didn't read or follow any instructions as luckil I've done a fair few regulators in my years. Simple job. Slight adjustent at the end to get window to close 100% but all in all an easy job. Anyone need theirs doing and live near me in warwickshire I don't mind doing it but will cost you about £70 for the part. Pm me if you don't want to pay dealership prices although I can't offer a warranty on my work.


Hi Wallster, my Audi TTS has a window alignment issue on the driver's side - I'm guessing the previous owner replaced his window regulator but didn't do a good job on alignment.

The slight misalignment means that I get a buffeting/whistling noise at high speeds of +75mph. The location of misalignment is on the bottom rear side area of the window where there is a very small gap. The misalignment is more noticeable when looking straight down the driver side windows - it juts out slightly.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I am also in Warwickshire - Coventry to be precise. Unfortunately don't have access to PM yet as I am a new member and need to do more posts to get access rights. Any help or advice is much appreciated. Would also be happy to pay you for labour if you can fix it for me!


----------



## TT-driver

Could you post a picture of the misalignment?


----------



## savz1

Had my window regulator go on my 2008 TTS and Audi replaced it on Goodwill due to it being a faulty part and having full Audi service history.

The passengers side is making creeking noises so is due to go soon but Audi wouldn't touch it until it had actually gone :roll:


----------



## wallster

Anyone want any work doing that are happy to commute to me in Rugby Warwickshire then call me on 07766143484. The alignment is straight forward as the only way to adjust are the two locking bolts holding the glass in. I had to adjust mine to get a flush fit. I think also aftermarket regulators not might offer 100% fitment so you might get wind noise or water leaks when going at high speeds but no reason why we couldn't investigate to see if it can be eradicated.

Cheers Matt.

Im working shifts at jaguar land rover in Gaydon so I'm sure l can fit a time to suit one week or another.


----------



## wallster

Let me know how the adjustment went Ray, suggest packing out the rubber seal running down the back window where l suggested, that could help alot more. Failing that l might have to manipulate the regulator manually but see how things go and let me know if you need it improved further. Nice TTS btw


----------



## Ray667

wallster said:


> Let me know how the adjustment went Ray, suggest packing out the rubber seal running down the back window where l suggested, that could help alot more. Failing that l might have to manipulate the regulator manually but see how things go and let me know if you need it improved further. Nice TTS btw


Thanks again for your help Matt! TTS is looking great now that the door, bonnet, headlamp, window etc. are aligned! A true expert in profiling and a real credit to the TT community - definitely owe you a drink or two! :wink: Have ordered the rubber tube so will try packing the seal once it's arrived. The adjustment to the window has definitely helped, but when I go +75mph it starts whistling again, so hopefully the packing will do the trick.


----------



## TTS_James

Looks like the plague has infected my car also ('58 TTS - 60,000 miles). My driver's window only goes up about half way. Went into Bristol Audi today and they diagnosed the problem for free, as the window regulator failing. Unfortunately, they quoted £360 inc vat - however I feel like this is far too much for the work. I've send a tweet over to the AudiUKCare to see whether they can help or not. Will keep you all updated if I make any headway.


----------



## wallster

If the rubber tube doesn't do the trice we will take the glass out and see if there is a issue causing it to sit over flush. Prices for replacing regulators at stealers are shocking but that's cause they can.


----------



## Hadaak

I'm back with this issue. The mod (changing the cable and modifying the frame a bit) ended up in the whole windows regulator being too tight I guess and I'm getting a crackling noise whenever I open the door if the window is all the way up. So I ordered a new window regulator (without motor = frame and cable pre-installed). I received it today from Germany and I found out I will have the same rubbing issue I had on the old one. The cable rubs against the left side of the frame. Anyone bought a new regulator to confirm?

The pics:


----------



## cookymunster

BOTH MY WINDOW REGULATORS WENT!!

Audi TTS 08/09

I regret buying EuroParts replacements as they are inferior to the OEM Audi make. Yes they are loads cheaper but lack in build quality and adjustments. I even had to send one back to EuroParts and got a replacement. On the fauly one the cables were crossing over each other on the yellow pulley wheel. So far they are both working.

If I had the money I wouls definitely buy Audi OEM parts!!


----------



## Richings

cookymunster said:


> BOTH MY WINDOW REGULATORS WENT!!
> 
> Audi TTS 08/09
> 
> I regret buying EuroParts replacements as they are inferior to the OEM Audi make. Yes they are loads cheaper but lack in build quality and adjustments. I even had to send one back to EuroParts and got a replacement. On the fauly one the cables were crossing over each other on the yellow pulley wheel. So far they are both working.
> 
> If I had the money I wouls definitely buy Audi OEM parts!!


When my drivers side went, I decided to buy Eurocarparts replacement... Literally in about 3 Months it went again! I have been driving around with this thing crunching every time I put it down for about 7 or 8 months and it's still working. I will replace it at some point but like you said, I will have to get the official audi OEM part.

Can we not get it fixed for free because of this major well known issue!?


----------



## Rene Pogel

Mine just went - 2007 3.2. In Holland, bill is 350 quid.

Ouch.


----------



## Matt B

Mine went Monday - bought brand new regulator drivers side 8JO837462E
128 quid

Time to complete - about 2.5 hours. Made more complicated by the 2 of the clip holders on the doors breaking.

Massive thanks to MintTT for the 16 page PDF that he put on the Internet - top man !


----------



## peter-ss

Have you replaced the broken clips as the integrity of the internal seals is critical to correct airbag function?


----------



## Matt B

I bought 6 spare clips but not a single clip broke - it was the bloody clip holders that are in the back of the door card. Despite having a part number on the clip holder TPS couldn't find them at all, even in the factory system. 
Lee got out the hot glue gun and made them good again !!

Made sure I put a little bit of grease on the tips of the clips on re installation - just in case


----------



## ReTTro fit

peter-ss said:


> Have you replaced the broken clips as the integrity of the internal seals is critical to correct airbag function?


????????
No airbags in there !!!!

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Matt B

ReTTro fit said:


> peter-ss said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you replaced the broken clips as the integrity of the internal seals is critical to correct airbag function?
> 
> 
> 
> ????????
> No airbags in there !!!!
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap
Click to expand...

Lol - I know what Peter means - he is talking about the crash sensor. The notes in the guide I used had lots of info about it. Some sort of pressure sensor mounted in the door cavity. It must sense the increase in pressure if the volume of the cavity decreases.


----------



## ReTTro fit

But that's the cavity in between the door inner and outer skin 
Nothing to do with the door cards

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## cwunch

Mine just went today. Repair guy fixed it for like £35 or something in my country  
Changed the wires


----------



## peter-ss

ReTTro fit said:


> But that's the cavity in between the door inner and outer skin
> Nothing to do with the door cards
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


The door cards are held on with clips that fit into holes in the door.

Each clip is fitted with a rubber gasket to make sure the hole in the door is completely sealed.

I suspect if clips were missing or broken that the pressure increase in the door wouldn't be enough, in the case of a side impact, to trigger the pressure switch.


----------



## TT-driver

Could be, but then again, what about the drain holes? Perhaps a balanced system?

I do know from experience that a missing clip will lead to water leaking into the interior. So in that sense the little rubber gaskets are mandatory.


----------



## G1TT

So my drivers side failed this week also, 2008 coupe. I managed with the help of my staff to get the window closed so the rain didn't fill the cabin. I have just ordered a cable repair set from the guy (is it Alan?) on eBay and will fit myself. I have contacted Audi UK about it and they advise y local dealer (Inchcape) to asses for the failed part and advise whether Audi uk will cover the cost. Car has full Audi service history with 53k covered. I realise that these things happen, and if Audi will repair either FOC or at non profit cost they I may let them handle it and keep the bay one as a spare. I am not though going to entertain Audi or their dealers making a profit from this as it has been handled badly and a well known issue. Apparently VW also have these issues.

Are the stainless eBay repair kits reliable over time anyone?


----------



## andyviv0_2

Another window regulator failure, drivers side, 2008 TTS 42000 miles.
Fixed by APS Brackley, same day for a great price, thanks guys and up yours Audi for selling a car with a part that is not fit for purpose, should have been recalled.


----------



## the_dixtar

My drivers side window decided to pack up last night on the way home from work. Had the gritty grinding, crunching sound. 
Been down to Euro car parts this morning for a new regulator kit. £65 all in, looks like ill be fitting this later on today.

*** UPDATE ***

Fitted the new kit regulator kit earlier on today. Thought I'd stick a pic up of the old unit removed as I may be useful to someone at some point!


----------



## peuguot

Hi
My drivers side window regulator had to be replaced on my 2009 plate TTdi just before Christmas at a cost of £300 at the Leicester dealership, they did quote me £385, but after me complaining about this being a common and known fault they knocked £85 off the bill as a good will gesture. I did mention that I had seen this problem occurring on this Forum and they told me that they don't take any notice of forums, even though we are their customers. I wrote a very angry email to Audi UK
on the 6th of Dec, still waiting for a reply.
Also as my car has been recalled for a software upgrade regarding the emissions problem,I was wondering has anyone on here had any problem trying to sell their TTdi as a result of this "scandal"


----------



## Cuyahoga

My, oh my, I didn't realise this was such an issue!

Passenger side on my 56 plate 3.2 V6 went while we were in the middle of nowhere in the Highlands of Scottishland; managed to manually push it up and duct tape it in place just in case until we got home and could get it fixed...

Strange person I live with had the same on the driver side of their 07 plate 2.o coupe a few months earlier.

Pretty poor stuff really.


----------



## mwad

Driver side window packed up


----------



## J22kog

Passenger window always dropped 2mm or so but never sorted, yesterday drivers side snapped so going to get the pair done. Spoken to somebody on here who got his replaced through Shrewsbury Audi - I'm going to try my local dealer first.


----------



## riiiiiich

Right, just had this go on the passenger side (2010 TT S-Line Coupe) just before my missus was going to go to work (she uses my old TT until I get it sold). Passenger side window wouldn't go up. Tried to move it up manually but just got crunching noises and now the window is stuck open. Did anyone have any luck with getting Audi to sort this one out free of charge or should I just give up on that and get it sorted anyway?


----------



## samwhunt

As above

Driver side window gone on my 2009 TT (69,000 miles). Am waiting on Audi Customer Services Manager ringing me to discuss, car had full Audi service apart from last service.

Got a range of quotes from local indies from £203 - £298. Wondering whether its worth pursuing with Audi....


----------



## J22kog

Had them both replaced by Audi yesterday. One had snapped the other dropped a MM when driving quick so you could hear the wind. Both done on good will. Did need to have the last service at Audi to be able to get this for anyone going to tjem. Basic service is 159 so can't complain and have 5yr warranty with them too


----------



## ReTTro fit

Did mine myself yesterday
Bought the stainless cable set from the YouTube / eBay guy 
Perfect fit 
Good as new

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## malstt

Do you have link to the one you bought ? Had trouble with passenger side one 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## knz6441

I had mine go on 42000 2009 tts, but had new one fitted and auto up down is not working, any suggestions?


----------



## ReTTro fit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281190557467

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

knz6441 said:


> I had mine go on 42000 2009 tts, but had new one fitted and auto up down is not working, any suggestions?


Do window reset

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## knz6441

Iv done the window reset. Is this the window coding you said about on my post?? Anyone have suggestions when auto dosent work and has been programmed back in?


----------



## ReTTro fit

You can't programme it back in if coding isn't correct

What exactly did you change ? 
Just the wire ??

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## knz6441

Changed the whole unit of regulator... Sorry wasn't me that changed it, he showed me whole arm it was completely frayed! Got genuine part from Audi around £120 once fitted the roof did not want to go down but since programming window the roof now works but still not the auto of drivers window. How do I code??


----------



## ReTTro fit

42 drivers door module 
07 coding 
Check that the value of 16 is included in your soft code as that's the value of the auto window run










On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## knz6441

Have gone to 42 then ecu 07 coding it come up with code 565 wsc 1236? Any suggestions?vi don't think this computer is up to date enough


----------



## malstt

ReTTro fit said:


> https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281190557467
> 
> Cheers
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Jem

Passenger side went today. Got caught in rain and unfortunately water made its way onto passenger seat and dash. Motor still works but window slows down as it comes up and then stops.

Managed to use some tarpuaulin and cable and have the car covered it for now until the garage is open on tuesday. What a pain.

Can't see any value in going to Audi to claim warranty/design flaw on a 9 year old car at 100k miles - even with the historic servicing.

Edit: Cost £285 for parts and labour from local indy. Fortunately motor was absolutely fine.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Get the stainless kit 
Fantastic value

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## WooTT

Hi there,

I'm new to this forum, and have noticed you have a thread on this issue [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I have the same issue with my drivers window. The window moves up and down, and closes completely, but whistles at high speed as I don't think the window is a snug fit anymore.

The window will go down automatically all the way, but it won't go up automatically all the way (I have to press the button twice then keep the button depressed till the window reaches the top).

Problem is... when the drivers side first went, I took it to a local garage who (unknown to me) didn't use genuine a Audi TT part, and didn't reset the window correctly, so the window doesn't fit snug and it doesn't work as expected. I took it back to the garage and they had another go bu still not much better - I ended up giving up with the garage as the guy was rude to me, and I wasn't sure what was happening with the window (I'm female and love my car, but know nothing about stuff like this!). That was about two years ago and I've lived with it eversince, but I want to sort it now :?

Audi spotted that it was not a genuine part but I was reluctant to pay the extortionate price for them to fix it, as they won't cover it under warranty as I had it done by another garage first....

The same happened to the passenger window, but audi fixed it for free (they had an old window regulator that they could get back for warranty) so they cheated.....my car is 8 years old.

Can anyone advise how I could fit it with genuine parts, without having to go to Audi and pay extortionate prices?

Any help is very much appreciated!

(I also have an issue with the sound - none of the speakers work so can't hear radio, phone calls or bluetooth connection noise when getting in/out of car) - I'm assuming it's a fuse....as the radio still works, just no sound - however Audi want to get it on the diagnostics for at least £65....before they even find anything....which if a fuse I will be pissed off :roll: )


----------



## ReTTro fit

The stainless wired regulator kits on eBay are far superior to the genuine Audi ones, just done mine and I'm really pleased with them

As for your speakers, it won't be a fuse 
My guess would be that you have BOSE and it's your amp that's failed, best bet is get it scanned and go from there

I can do both for you if your local

Where abouts are you ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## WooTT

Hi ReTTro fit,

I probably wouldn't know for sure what I would be looking for on ebay :? but sounds like it's worth a go...?

My radio is Audi Symphony, not BOSE so would it still be the amp? How would I fix that - is it a big job?

I'm in sunny Cheshire


----------



## TT-driver

WooTT said:


> Any help is very much appreciated!


To me it sounds very much like the window needs a proper alignment. I replaced a window regulator twice. Once with the stainless ebay kit. Once with a genuine part. Replacing with the genuine part gave me a better result: less play in the system. But final adjustment of the window is vital and needs to be done within 1mm, regardless of which replacement part is fitted. It took me at least 2 hours getting the window exactly right. Now mine doesn't produce any wind noise even at speeds over 125mph.


----------



## WooTT

Yes I think both part and alignment is required.

Is there anyone that do this for me at all, I'm located in Cheshire ☺


----------



## ReTTro fit

WooTT said:


> Hi ReTTro fit,
> 
> I probably wouldn't know for sure what I would be looking for on ebay :? but sounds like it's worth a go...?
> 
> My radio is Audi Symphony, not BOSE so would it still be the amp? How would I fix that - is it a big job?
> 
> I'm in sunny Cheshire


Non of the stereos are Bose 
Bose is the amplifier and speakers


----------



## ReTTro fit

TT-driver said:


> WooTT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any help is very much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> To me it sounds very much like the window needs a proper alignment. I replaced a window regulator twice. Once with the stainless ebay kit. Once with a genuine part. Replacing with the genuine part gave me a better result: less play in the system. But final adjustment of the window is vital and needs to be done within 1mm, regardless of which replacement part is fitted. It took me at least 2 hours getting the window exactly right. Now mine doesn't produce any wind noise even at speeds over 125mph.
Click to expand...

The stainless kit fits into the genuine Audi frame etc so results are the same 
Mine had no play what so ever


----------



## WooTT

Hi ReTTro fit,

Would you be able to help be find the right parts on eBay and are you local to fit for a fee?

I'm in Cheshire if anywhere near you?


----------



## ReTTro fit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281086702690

If happily sort it for you mate but I'm in Leicestershire

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## WozzaTT

Think mine's just gone - driver's side.

I can hear the motor working but the window got stuck half way up/down - I've manged to pull it up the rest of the way for now.

Does this sound like the regulator? Or all I can hear apart from the motor is what sounds like broken glass crunching about, which doesn't surprise me as thieves smashed the original window a couple of years ago. It's worked perfectly from then to now though.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yeh, needs a repair kit

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## TT-driver

ReTTro fit said:


> The stainless kit fits into the genuine Audi frame etc so results are the same
> Mine had no play what so ever


I'm well aware. On my ebay kit, the wire was thinner than the original and more importantly the tensioner part was 100% plastic. And because of that, it seemed to be less effective. As a result, the window drop (when opening the door) was barely enough to clear the window from the seal and the window didn't fully go down into the door when fully opened.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Ah I see, the stainless kit I had was spot on

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ebusch

WooTT said:


> I have the same issue with my drivers window. The window moves up and down, and closes completely, but whistles at high speed as I don't think the window is a snug fit anymore.
> 
> The window will go down automatically all the way, but it won't go up automatically all the way (I have to press the button twice then keep the button depressed till the window reaches the top).


I'm having a similar problem. I'm in the US, and ordered a kit off of ebay, but it wasn't the stainless kit available in the UK. Everything went back together alright, but I'm still having trouble getting the window back into alignment. I've got the glass about as high as it can go and still allow the door to close, but it doesn't seem to want to fully raise up to seal itself under the weather-stripping at the top of the door frame.

Looking at the opposite door, I think it should be raising up around 4-5mm when the door closes, tucking the glass back under the seal, but after the replacement the window barely moves at all. As a result I've got some wind noise at highway speeds, and if I press on the top of the glass from inside the car I can feel the window flex outward. Any tips to get the window to fully seal when closed?


----------



## ReTTro fit

Try removing the round cable carrier and turning it a few notches on the spline of the motor 
That would create more travel

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Cage911

My passenger side window regulator went on my roadster. Took advantage of Euro's 25% discount and got a new regulator for under £65 and had it fitted within 30/40 minutes.

Very straight forward to fit; if anyone finds the idea of doing it themselves daunting.

Definitely don't understand why Audi charge two hours labour.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## -VK-

Aaaand there goes mine. Passenger side 2008 TTS Coupe.

Managed to get the window back up without incident thankfully. Is the ebay kit easy to fit for someone who isnt Rettro?


----------



## Jazzler

Yup, its easy if you are semi handy with tools. My O/S regulator went a year ago and was stuck down in torrential rain, i was going to do the N/S for piece of mind but thought why bother as it's working fine at the time. Today i put the N/S window down and when putting it up i heard the tangle of death sound... I immediately put it up with a few extra presses of the button, and ordered the repair kit from chalkya on ebay. It'll be fixed shortly after it arrives in the post. It's a pain when it happens but simple and cheap to fix. Repair kit also seems much more durable than the standard cable. I should have replaced the N/S cable too with the upgraded stainless repair kit sooner but hey ho, no real bother..


----------



## the_dixtar

My passenger side one has gone now, I replaced the driver side one a few months ago with a aftermarket kit from euro car parts but It's a pile of crap. This time I'll be trying the stainless wires from ebay and keeping the oem mech.

So much for Audi build quality!


----------



## me_arv

Hi guys, I have a MK1 with the classic regulator problem, but gather this is the main hub of moans and help...

I've got the classic stuck halfway and crumble noise going on. 
As a mark1 I don't think the ebay repair kit people use will help sort me out, it's aimed at the mk2 where the issue is even more common yeah? 
Our family mechanic has taken a look and thinks both regulator and motor need replace, regulator wires are shed and motor is shot as well we think.

I have found a regulator:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-FRONT ... SwLs5XKKQe

but finding the motor harder to track down, any ideas?

thanks!


----------



## MattStancill

i am guessing mine has just gone or on it way out its started making the noise like scratching glass from my passenger side window, god its a horrible sound. i have put the window back up an ordered the wire kit would this be the problem solved or do i need to buy the regulator too ?


----------



## ReTTro fit

Wire kit only mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MattStancill

cheers bud, your like the tt guru ha



ReTTro fit said:


> Wire kit only mate
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## HubertK

Is there any guides floating about on how to adjust the window as my one sits little bit too high after replacment regulator from eurocarparts.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Good luck with getting the eurocarparts ones set up right !

I bought one, fitted it and took it straight off ! 
Flimsy and not enough adjustment

Buy the stainless wire kit and use your oem frames

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## HubertK

ReTTro fit said:


> Good luck with getting the eurocarparts ones set up right !
> 
> I bought one, fitted it and took it straight off !
> Flimsy and not enough adjustment
> 
> Buy the stainless wire kit and use your oem frames
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Thanks for the reply but unfortunately the OEM regulator has been disposed few weeks ago when I replaced it to the new amazing ecp. I guess its time to start looking around on eBay for OEM part. Thanks


----------



## Templar

2008 roadster passenger side window reg failure. 
No longer my car but was an Audi approved when I had it and always local Audi main dealer serviced ... regulator being replaced FOC as a gesture of good will, no hassle so I've been informed.


----------



## alex.mc

ReTTro fit said:


> Good luck with getting the eurocarparts ones set up right !
> 
> I bought one, fitted it and took it straight off !
> Flimsy and not enough adjustment
> 
> Buy the stainless wire kit and use your oem frames
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Where can I find this stainless wire kit?
Thanks.


----------



## ReTTro fit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## alex.mc

ReTTro fit said:


> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281086702690
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Thanks, ordered!


----------



## userxyz

2 years and 1 week ago, the driver side regulator went on my 2008 TTS. Paid a local garage £220 to fix it (parts were £118 iirc). Yesterday my passenger side window regulator went with that same gravelly sound. Thankfully I can get the window very near to closed (within 1cm of the top) - it's only if I try and close it completely that it backs off and goes back down to half open. Sticking some tape over the gap for now.

Will this be suitable to fix it? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Elect ... xyQj9RMPl3

[EDIT]: Yes, it appears that's the right kit, based off previous posts!


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yep, that's the one

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CLARKEE

Had the window regulator issue recently, 09 plate Mk2.

Took it into Audi Wolverhampton mentioning that it was a known fault. Got it fixed completely free of charge!


----------



## userxyz

CLARKEE said:


> Had the window regulator issue recently, 09 plate Mk2.
> 
> Took it into Audi Wolverhampton mentioning that it was a known fault. Got it fixed completely free of charge!


Lucky!

I called Derby Audi and the person I spoke to told me that they hadn't heard of it being a known issue and that I'd need to book it in.
I spoke to Audi Customer Services and was told I had to book it in at Derby Audi, so essentially I'd be at the mercy of the manager *after* paying £120 for what would likely be a 5 minute diagnosis.

Repair kit and a mate who is a mechanic hopefully to the rescue.


----------



## Mrboofs

My drivers side regulator is about to completely go I think. Used it Saturday and when the window is 2" from fully being down there are these horrible clunky noises. I tried it twice then put it up and left it. 
I have only had it 5 weeks s back to the dealer I bought it from this afternoon. He has already said he doesn't normally cover Windows so not holding much hope from him.

Would it be worth contacting Audi do you think?

It's an 07 TFSI which has only done 29k. I'd like to think a regulator lasts a lot longer than that.


----------



## GaryG

I haven't read all 56 pages, but I think I have found the cause of the regulator failing. The car should *not* be set up so that the switch automatically fully closes the window. In certain circumstances this will lead to failure. I'm afraid that you're going to have to do it yourself.

I noticed on mine that the nearside window is set up to close automatically, but the driver's side isn't. The driver's side is the regulator that has been replaced.

When I closed the driver's side (non-automatically), it stopped about 1 cm before the top seal. I can then open the door and finish off the job. When that is done, and when the door is closed, the window sits perfectly at the top seal.

This indicates that the motor drives the window up until it meets a resistance greater than its power. This creates heat and, over time, destroys the motor.

If (i) the resistance is greater than the power and (ii) the closing is automatic, the motor will rise to the point at which EU safety regulations cause the thermal cut-out (that stops children having their neck trapped) kicks in. However, as this is an emergency mechanism and should rarely be needed, the damage it does (less than once in the car's life) is negligible. *Repeated* inadvertent use of this emergency effect does the damage, and this leads to failure.

I have a solution but I have not tested it over time: I liberally sprayed the door seal with silicon oil (mask off the surrounding area). This worked on the driver's door and doesn't seem to be needed on the passenger door.

If, on the driver's door, in time, this fails, I might try a hard wax (Simonize, or similar) on both the seal and the final 1 cm at the top of the window, or some other way of removing the friction.

There are cases in which the window will go all the way up, but will eventually fail. These will be cases where the resistance is close to the level at which the thermal cut-out would operate - heat will still be produced.


----------



## ReTTro fit

GaryG said:


> I haven't read all 56 pages, but I think I have found the cause of the regulator failing. The car should *not* be set up so that the switch automatically fully closes the window. In certain circumstances this will lead to failure. I'm afraid that you're going to have to do it yourself.
> 
> I noticed on mine that the nearside window is set up to close automatically, but the driver's side isn't. The driver's side is the regulator that has been replaced.
> 
> When I closed the driver's side (non-automatically), it stopped about 1 cm before the top seal. I can then open the door and finish off the job. When that is done, and when the door is closed, the window sits perfectly at the top seal.
> 
> This indicates that the motor drives the window up until it meets a resistance greater than its power. This creates heat and, over time, destroys the motor.
> 
> If (i) the resistance is greater than the power and (ii) the closing is automatic, the motor will rise to the point at which EU safety regulations cause the thermal cut-out (that stops children having their neck trapped) kicks in. However, as this is an emergency mechanism and should rarely be needed, the damage it does (less than once in the car's life) is negligible. *Repeated* inadvertent use of this emergency effect does the damage, and this leads to failure.
> 
> I have a solution but I have not tested it over time: I liberally sprayed the door seal with silicon oil (mask off the surrounding area). This worked on the driver's door and doesn't seem to be needed on the passenger door.
> 
> If, on the driver's door, in time, this fails, I might try a hard wax (Simonize, or similar) on both the seal and the final 1 cm at the top of the window, or some other way of removing the friction.
> 
> There are cases in which the window will go all the way up, but will eventually fail. These will be cases where the resistance is close to the level at which the thermal cut-out would operate - heat will still be produced.


Totally disagree 
Nothing to do with the motor, they don't fail, the steel wire on the pulleys is what fails due to rust and that's what you replace, not the motor 
The window only sits where you put it 
And stops where you set it too

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ldhxvs

ReTTro fit said:


> GaryG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't read all 56 pages, but I think I have found the cause of the regulator failing. The car should *not* be set up so that the switch automatically fully closes the window. In certain circumstances this will lead to failure. I'm afraid that you're going to have to do it yourself.
> 
> I noticed on mine that the nearside window is set up to close automatically, but the driver's side isn't. The driver's side is the regulator that has been replaced.
> 
> When I closed the driver's side (non-automatically), it stopped about 1 cm before the top seal. I can then open the door and finish off the job. When that is done, and when the door is closed, the window sits perfectly at the top seal.
> 
> This indicates that the motor drives the window up until it meets a resistance greater than its power. This creates heat and, over time, destroys the motor.
> 
> If (i) the resistance is greater than the power and (ii) the closing is automatic, the motor will rise to the point at which EU safety regulations cause the thermal cut-out (that stops children having their neck trapped) kicks in. However, as this is an emergency mechanism and should rarely be needed, the damage it does (less than once in the car's life) is negligible. *Repeated* inadvertent use of this emergency effect does the damage, and this leads to failure.
> 
> I have a solution but I have not tested it over time: I liberally sprayed the door seal with silicon oil (mask off the surrounding area). This worked on the driver's door and doesn't seem to be needed on the passenger door.
> 
> If, on the driver's door, in time, this fails, I might try a hard wax (Simonize, or similar) on both the seal and the final 1 cm at the top of the window, or some other way of removing the friction.
> 
> There are cases in which the window will go all the way up, but will eventually fail. These will be cases where the resistance is close to the level at which the thermal cut-out would operate - heat will still be produced.
> 
> 
> 
> Totally disagree
> Nothing to do with the motor, they don't fail, the steel wire on the pulleys is what fails due to rust and that's what you replace, not the motor
> The window only sits where you put it
> And stops where you set it too
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If thats the case then some stainless steel wire should sort that problem out.


----------



## Jonnymack74

Hi Guys,

Used to post on here as Pat Bateman, but lost my login details.
Anyhow i set up a google doc thread for everyone to put their details in on this known issue to try and force Audi's hand to admit some sort of liability

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... edit#gid=0

They never did, but that shouldn't stop everyone from contributing and taking a copy to see if their dealer will contribute anything to this very common fault

Good luck guys


----------



## andyk17

Hi,

Is this still an issue on the later Mk2s, I seem to recall seeing a post that said that Audi changed something in 2011 which resolved or at least reduced the chances of this problem occurring, but can't find it now. Obviously no fix will stop all instances from happening but anything which reduces the risk can't be bad or did I just imagine it?

Andy


----------



## ldhxvs

Cover the cable in grease and it will last a while longer


----------



## brittan

ReTTro fit said:


> Nothing to do with the motor, they don't fail, the steel wire on the pulleys is what fails due to rust and that's what you replace, not the motor


Exactly.

And the replacement wire assembly in the ebay item linked above says that it uses stainless steel wire so should not rust like the original.


----------



## andyk17

Just a quick question on this, when the regulator fails how does it affect opening the doors, bearing in mind that the window drops slightly when they open. Most seem to fail with the window partially open so I guess not a problem but what if you manage to get your window fully closed ?

This seems to be a common problem across the VAG models so surprised they haven't resolved the issue yet.

Out of interest what is the newest car (by model year) that has had them fail.

Andy


----------



## Vanu

Can anyone share the procedure of taking off and part number of the driver side window switch buttons?


----------



## iamnotthestig

No surpise mine window dosn't work.

Any tips for the regulator replacement i.e window adjustment?


----------



## tonyabacus

Anyone know where I can get a wire kit only for a MK1, seems a few about for the later cars, but not the earlier cars.
Also did I read somewhere about a guy who will loan you the tool and supply some nipples to make up your own cables with stainless wire?
Tony


----------



## Essexaviator

Another VAG window Reg breakdown!
Cable broken on my 43 year old type 2 campervan. Any chances of post warranty goodwill claim?


----------



## Rog M

andyk17 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Is this still an issue on the later Mk2s, I seem to recall seeing a post that said that Audi changed something in 2011 which resolved or at least reduced the chances of this problem occurring, but can't find it now. Obviously no fix will stop all instances from happening but anything which reduces the risk can't be bad or did I just imagine it?
> 
> Andy


This post did not seem to get any replies that I can see,doe's anyone know the answer?


----------



## dadsincharge

Looks like my wife's Roadster has the same issue. Try to close the window and she gets a crunching sound (like a stone is lodged in the seal or broken glass).

Currently the windows is half way up and will go no further - its goes down OK but only half way up. Will I cause damage to the motor if I try to pull the window up and do I need to use the switch at the same time?

Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## ReTTro fit

You won't damage the motor, only the cable but that's already damaged 
Yes use the switch at the same time as pulling it up

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dadsincharge

Thanks Rettro

Just tried that and I can;t budge the window. Maybe the wires are caught. It still goes down and up half way so defo not the motor.

Looks like the door panel will have to come off for me to do this. Will also order the Regulator Repair kit - something to do at the weekend :-(


----------



## ReTTro fit

Door card off then, pull the motor off so you can mess with the cable and pull the window up, put motor back on, sprag something in the door to keep the window fully up 
Leave the window motor unplugged 
At least then your water proof till you fix it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dadsincharge

Cable stripped and snapped so window up now and waiting for part to come through.

Is there any particular order to do this (I know that the supplier of the cable gives instructions and I also saw his video but he had the mechanism on a bench. Do I remove all the mechanism or try to refit the cable with it all in the door? I'm thinking that the bits that fit to the window will be a b**th to get off that's all.


----------



## sieuk

My passenger side regulator has just gone, that's both gone within just over a year of ownership but luckily I knew what it was this time so got the window backup for now.

Are there any DIY guides and how easy is it to do?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281190557467?_mwBanner=1

Is the link above the right part?

Cheers guys.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## AndreiV93

sieuk said:


> My passenger side regulator has just gone, that's both gone within just over a year of ownership but luckily I knew what it was this time so got the window backup for now.
> 
> Are there any DIY guides and how easy is it to do?
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281190557467?_mwBanner=1
> 
> Is the link above the right part?
> 
> Cheers guys.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Call an Audi dealership and have a moan at them! I called Audi Oxford, said my passenger side window regulator went; I mentioned that I was aware that this was a VERY common fault with the TTs and was not happy! I was then put on hold for 2 mins while the person was checking with their manager. When he came back to the phone, he said they'll cover the full cost of the replacement  Happy Days!


----------



## sieuk

AndreiV93 said:


> sieuk said:
> 
> 
> 
> My passenger side regulator has just gone, that's both gone within just over a year of ownership but luckily I knew what it was this time so got the window backup for now.
> 
> Are there any DIY guides and how easy is it to do?
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281190557467?_mwBanner=1
> 
> Is the link above the right part?
> 
> Cheers guys.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Call an Audi dealership and have a moan at them! I called Audi Oxford, said my passenger side window regulator went; I mentioned that I was aware that this was a VERY common fault with the TTs and was not happy! I was then put on hold for 2 mins while the person was checking with their manager. When he came back to the phone, he said they'll cover the full cost of the replacement  Happy Days!
Click to expand...

I have tried Audi Wolverhampton (closest dealer) and they're having none of it might try Audi Derby where i purchased the car from tomorrow, if not ill order the kit off eBay and see how much it will cost at a garage.


----------



## dadsincharge

That's the correct kit - Done my wife's about a month ago - quite a simple job - follow the instructions but just remember the diagrams you get with it are for the drivers side so the passenger side is the reverse.


----------



## northw1ck

I got absolutely zero out of Audi Halesowen. Admittedly not bought the car from them but they were about as interested in giving a discount on the part as they would be in having a brand new BMW in best part of the showroom.

The window was stuck totally down and it was raining a lot so had little choice but to cough up for the new part (which they had in stock - tells a story in itself!).

I have refurbished the original regulator with a new cable set so if anyone needs a drivers side (for RHD) then let me know - I have one available.


----------



## Guybrush

Drivers side just went on me :x 
I've only had the car 4 weeks.... luckily I've got the garage taking it back and fixing under warranty. Still a pain in the arse.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Make sure they don't put a eurocarparts special in it to save a few quid

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rory_ward

Just had my near side window regulator replaced today by Hitchin Audi free of charge!

Regulator failed on Thursday of last week so took it straight to the garage 10mins before closing time and insisted they kept the car in the workshop until the repair was carried out as the car was then insecure and any damage/theft caused to the car would not be covered by my insurance company.

Suffice to say I had a call today from the service manager at the dealership, she had spoken to Audi UK and had been advised that early models WILL qualify for a free 'upgrade' to the original regulator mechanism.

For reference, my car is a 2007 with FASH... I have previously also had an engine rebuild courtesy of the same dealership due to oil consumption, again covered by Audi despite the car being well outside its warranty! The only stipulation I was given by the service manager was that the car must have 'mainly' Audi service history...

For those suffering with the same issue and within reasonable driving distance of North Hertfordshire, it may be worth paying Hitchin Audi a visit!


----------



## Guybrush

ReTTro fit said:


> Make sure they don't put a eurocarparts special in it to save a few quid
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Proper part, it was in the reception of the office - so got a good look 
Nice quick job too, warranty has paid for itself already.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## red23

Just had mine go on passengers side.

Called Audi who are happy to look at it, but cannot guarantee there would be any goodwill payment towards it.

They would charge a £60 diagnostic fee, to basically flick the window switch to confirm issue.

Thoughts on this? or better off just doing myself?


----------



## ReTTro fit

£60 diagnostic 

They know exactly what it is !

Don't let em touch it

Do it yourself mate with the stainless cable set

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## red23

ReTTro fit said:


> £60 diagnostic
> 
> They know exactly what it is !
> 
> Don't let em touch it
> 
> Do it yourself mate with the stainless cable set
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This was my gut feeling mate.

I'll buy the Ebay cable set mentioned a few posts up and fit it myself 

Other Garages quoted £350 and £450 to fix it with genuine Audi parts. Also said if it was the motor (which it is not) too i was looking at £630 which just irritated me no end.

I've had a look at the fitting of the wire guide and looks a bit fiddly, would i be better off buying a whole new regulator on ebay for about £60?


----------



## qooqiiu

99% sure my drivers window has gone today. Up down / up down when it was in the middle of the closing motion.
And now will not close completely. Managed to get it within 1cm of the top. Lots of tell tale grinding noises.

Ordered a kit from
The link above in anticipation of what il find. Cars build date was September 2010. Just lucky weather is set fair all week.

I've been waiting for this for a couple of years now. :roll:


----------



## qooqiiu

Piece of shit cable!!!!

It had proplerly chewed the spool so I'm having to get a new one from
Audi which will be well greased up as well as having the "updated" cable.

The replacement cable was not up to standard really. Not OEM in fitment and I think would have been not perfect. Plastic parts used where OEM is metal (secondary tooth tension bit) and the stops were just rounded barrels instead of 4 sided bit that fit the up and down runners. So buying new is the way for me. Not happy. 150 sobs lighter


----------



## red23

qooqiiu said:


> Piece of shit cable!!!!
> 
> It had proplerly chewed the spool so I'm having to get a new one from
> Audi which will be well greased up as well as having the "updated" cable.
> 
> The replacement cable was not up to standard really. Not OEM in fitment and I think would have been not perfect. Plastic parts used where OEM is metal (secondary tooth tension bit) and the stops were just rounded barrels instead of 4 sided bit that fit the up and down runners. So buying new is the way for me. Not happy. 150 sobs lighter


wow really that bad? how come some people seem to really rate them?

Starting to think twice now about ordering.....

would this be better?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-AUDI- ... Swr~lYpVfC


----------



## ReTTro fit

I've fitted DOZENS of the stainless eBay kits and HIGHLY recommend them

To say that they don't match OEM standard is mad if you ask me !! 
The OEM one is clearly shit which is why so many have failed ! 
The kit fits perfectly into the runners and have never heard of one failing yet

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## qooqiiu

Il take pics later when I get home. They're not a prefect match.


----------



## qooqiiu

Much respect for you reTTro but I would not use them.

Here's why..

Firstly the non OEM cable does not have this extra rubber dampener. I don't want to be hearing cables clanging about.



Second the stops for the sliders. The OEM are a perfect fit with no movement at all. The replacement ones are a barrel shape and there is a fraction of movement in them.



Third the secondary compressor. The OEM ones have a metal to metal toothed runner. The replacement one is all plastic.



So I bought the up dated one from
Audi. £150 
But il get £30 back from replacement cable making it slightly more palatable. I still have to adjust the window height by about 4mm with the adjustment screws but typically I don't have an extra long 5mm Alan key.

For those who want to know. The correct torque spec for the window screw/bolt is 7NM. The updated regulator has a kinda long gutter on the slider nearest the wing mirror. Presumably to better channel water away from the spool.

Not a job I enjoyed doing at all. For me a new genuine part was preferable to fitting an aftermarket cable. The damaged wire chewed the groves in the spool more than I would be happy With but even without that a new regulator is better I think.


----------



## qooqiiu

@red23

I would not buy a patent part. Not even sure that one you link to has ajustment screws. The chances of the window being a perfect tight fit afterwards and not needing any ajustment is slim.


----------



## red23

Just going ahead and buying the Audi replacement part. Sounds the safer bet! should be easier to fit also.


----------



## qooqiiu

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilse-5mm-amp- ... 1231125005

To reach the adjustment screw. The one under the handle is further up the door cavity than the one closest the wing mirror.


----------



## red23

qooqiiu said:


> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilse-5mm-amp-4mm-Extra-Long-Ball-Ended-Hex-Allen-Key-Handle-T-Type-3800-/152578339408?txnId=1581231125005
> 
> To reach the adjustment screw. The one under the handle is further up the door cavity than the one closest the wing mirror.


Thanks for the info there mate!

I had another go with Audi who were quite good with me and they are willing to do it all for £255 which seems reasonable enough given the part is £155 itself.

Worth just biting the bullet and paying the £100 even though the door card, speakers etc are already out?

They said that the issue, especially with it being a roadster is ensuring the window is correctly aligned and allows the roof to go up/down.


----------



## tttony

"£255 which seems reasonable enough given the part is £155 itself."

Not so reasonable when some of us have had regulators replaced FOC by Audi main dealers.


----------



## red23

tttony said:


> "£255 which seems reasonable enough given the part is £155 itself."
> 
> Not so reasonable when some of us have had regulators replaced FOC by Audi main dealers.


Yeah agreed, however my car is now 10 years old and never been near Audi for the past 7 years, no servicing from them etc and I have never been a customer of theirs.

I imagine the people getting FOC are ones with Audi service history and cars younger than mine?


----------



## brittan

red23 said:


> Yeah agreed, however my car is now 10 years old and never been near Audi for the past 7 years, no servicing from them etc and I have never been a customer of theirs.
> 
> I imagine the people getting FOC are ones with Audi service history and cars younger than mine?


Without a full service history at Audi there's little, if any, hope of a goodwill gesture and a FOC repair or part foc and you pay the labour.

Usually only the cable needs replacing and this is available at reasonable cost from ebay


----------



## MoocherTT

I've had my MKII for 9 months, now and the driver side has gone. When I bought the car, both the regulators had been replaced about a year before. I did find out that the garage doing the job used the Eurocarparts kit. Reading on here it looks like that frame is not as good as an OEM. Any way I can tell if, by some stoke of luck, that I still have OEM frames? Thanks


----------



## Hoggy

Hi, OEM would have the OEM part number on it.
Hoggy.


----------



## qooqiiu

When you say " it's gone", what exactly are the symptoms?


----------



## MoocherTT

*@Hoggy*: Thanks.... seems like the OEM part is black with holes. Other frames seem to be silver. Anywhere I can find the OEM part number besides phoning Audi.

*@ qooqiiu:* Crunching noise when winding window up and down. Starts when the window is about half way. Sounds like the cable is probably frayed at that point. I've stopped using it for now. Stainless cable kit ordered. Just shows how quickly the cables begin to rust.


----------



## ReTTro fit

8J0837461D left

8J0837462D right

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## qooqiiu

Sounds like the cable fraying crunch for sure then.

Don't be fooled by the frame colour. There are aftermarket black ones too.

The latest part number ends in an "E" now so there has been a further revision of it.


----------



## MoocherTT

Thanks for the part numbers guys. I'll check when I take the door card off. Still waiting on delivery of the cables.


----------



## qooqiiu

I decided to take a preemptive Strike and change the passenger side regulator today.

Typically when I removed it I found it to be in perfect condition. Zero rust on the cables. Perfect! Oh well..

For anyone doing this and finding the gap after fitting is not a good fit you should know that the mayor bit of adjustment is this...



Here You can move the glass up or down left or right. It's just a matter of first doing the window re set and then trial of adjustment. I found no need to mess about with the adjuster bolts under the door.


----------



## MoocherTT

So...took the door card etc off, and removed the regulator...cables not rusted. I think the noise may have come from the spindle that does the cable winding. Seeing as I had the regulator off I thought I may as well change the cables to the SS ones from Ebay.

*BIG MISTAKE*. After trying unsuccessfully to change the cables over I saw that the cable guides didn't fit my regulator...the *Eurocar Part* one. Phoned up Alan and he confirmed that his SS cables will *ONLY WORK ON OEM REGULATORS*. He has kindly accepted a return. Totally f*******d up trying to reassemble the ECP regulator, so had to order a new one. *NOT A GOOD Day.*


----------



## ReTTro fit

N/S window regulator & repair cable

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MoocherTT

ReTTro fit said:


> N/S window regulator & repair cable
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks ReTTro fit.....sod's law, mine is the O/S (right) that's gone.


----------



## MoocherTT

Arrived yesterday...fitted and adjusted in 90 mins. Slight problems with fitting as this was designed to replace OEM. ECP item had different mountings, so had to raid my collection of nuts and bolts, as all OEM fittings were discarded when the previous owner had these changed.
Much better quality than the Euro Craparts item. Looks very close to OEM design. £60.00

eBay item number:
263073095591


----------



## red23

Bit the dust and booked the car in to Audi for next week. - £255 lighter for a bullshit problem


----------



## tdi_van

Just changed mine today, 3 hour job ( because its my first time) with windows regulator installed, aluminium mirror switch in place and also the aluminium look windows switches installed( have to trim a bit of the plastic housing because the new ones are larger than oem ones..

8j0837461E - 139 €


----------



## GaryG

d1will said:


> How difficult would it be for me to refit the new part - anybody know??


There is at least one good "How to" video on Youtube. The process is not particularly complex. However, it is time consuming and can be a bit fiddly in the final adjustment.


----------



## northw1ck

I did the passenger side at the weekend (after doing the driver side a few months ago) without any instructions so I'd say it was pretty easy as I remembered exactly how to do it. Watch the video and as long as you have the right tools it is is straightforward if you take your time.


----------



## qooqiiu

This is the most comprehensive video of this procedure.


----------



## Ryan42

Mine was down two months ago. It is a common issue in Malaysia and the damage is USD 180.


----------



## heylinb4nz

Driver's side on 2007 mk2, cost me $350nz under mechanical warranty, cable was frayed and crunching.


----------



## Phill_UK

My drivers side went today on my 2009 TTS. Got it booked in for repair on the 28th, luckily under Approved Warranty.


----------



## [email protected]

So I've just literally replaced my passenger side regulator, while teaching the windows, the drivers sides just started crunching and stopped working. WTF?
Can't be just coincidence ? Can it ? Especially when you see the frayed steel cable causing it?
Arggghh . . . .

Special Thanks to MintTT for his guide!


----------



## qooqiiu

There's no rhyme or reason to it. My o/s went but the n/s was absolutely fine with no signs or corrosion at all.


----------



## xpanel

My passenger side just went out. lol replaced passenger 2 times (will be 3) and driver side 1 time in the last 4 years.


----------



## qooqiiu

WOW! Do you live near the sea or something?


----------



## xpanel

Chicago Illinois up until about 2 weeks ago. While the car is at the shop in Chicago, I moved to Florida near the Gulf of Mexico.


----------



## Phill_UK

Got mine back from repair today. Turned out to be a failed regulator and frayed cable which also took out the front speaker. Luckily all covered under warranty.


----------



## Bobo2211

is this possible to replace the rubber next to the window glass? It seems can not prevent the water to get coming down under the rubber. If i wash my car, after winding down and up again, water is all over the glass.


----------



## tttony

The rubber strip on the top of the door is not meant to be watertight.


----------



## brittan

The rubber that is next to the glass has a "furry" finish that holds the water and that's why the window comes up wet for a day or so after washing the car.

A replacement from Audi (or anywhere else) would be the same. Apart from that replacing that trim part would require a complete strip of the door, regulator, speakers, glass, the lot.

The Mk3 is the same but worse. I do have an idea though but it's a work in progress atm.


----------



## PointnShoot

Mines just gone on my drivers side! Unable to get it more than 2/3 rds up! Annoyed!


----------



## Bin-The-L-Plates

Thankfully I paid for a 2 year used car warranty and have had both sides replaced, so I'm quids in already.


----------



## SwissJetPilot

This original post started on 23 Nov 2011 so I have summarized the 61 pages and 7-years of posts for your reading pleasure -

*Overview - *

The Audi TT MK2 window Regulator problem has been attributed to failed Bowden cables which are incorporated into the window Regulator frames. There are typically two modes of failure:
(1) a broken wire strand becomes entangled in the cable drive wheel or pulleys. (2) the cable snaps completely. In the first case, the window may still operate intermittently, in the second, it may render one or both Drivers useless. Failure of cables in the early Regulators (07's thru 09's) was attributed the use of galvanized steel cables which were not sufficiently corrosion resistant and more susceptible to work hardening. Later models were manufactured with stainless steel cables which are more corrosion resistant and less susceptible to work hardening.

*Failure Mode - *

One of the most common failures modes for steel wire and cable is mechanical embrittlement due to work hardening. If you take a paperclip and bend it back and forth repeatedly it will eventually break due to work hardening. This is exactly what's happening to the strands of the cable as they repeatedly pass over the pulleys every time the window is opened or closed. Three key factors associated the Regulator cable failure include material selection, corrosion resistance and cycle frequently (how often the window goes up and down). Ultimately these three factors will determine the lifetime of the cable. In the case of replacement cables, not only is material selection important, but the diameter of the wire must match the groove geometry of the pulleys. If the cable diameter is too large it will get pinched, if too small, it will flatten. In both cases, the action of the pulley can contribute to work hardening the wire over its lifetime, resulting reduced service life.

*Regulator Operation - *

The Regulator is comprised of four primary components:

(1) *Bowden cable*
(2) *Regulator Frames* (front and rear) with an upper and lower guide pulleys
(3) *Window Driver* (front and rear) these secure the window and slide up and down the Regulator Frame by means of the lugs swaged in the cable.
(4) *Cable Drive Wheel* assembly which is powered by the *Window Motor* (not shown). The two ends of the cable are secured inside the main drive wheel and arranged into a figure-8 configuration such that it leaves the main cable drive wheel, and passes over two pulleys on the top and bottom of both frames. The Drivers are connected to the cable by the means of a swaged lugs, such that when the cable moves, both front and rear Drivers slide up and down on the frames. When power is applied to the window motor, the main drive wheel rotates, the cable moves the Drivers up or down thus raising or lowering the window.









In the rear Driver, a bolt passes through the outer side, through a hole in the window glass, and when tightened, supports and clamps the window to the Driver. In the front Driver, it only clamps to the edge of the window glass, securing it in place. The wires are secured to each of the Drivers by means of a fixed lug which is permanently swaged to the wire, thus maintaining the relative position of the cable and the Drivers. In both cases, the each Driver can be adjusted up or down to ensure the window seals properly when raised. Adjustments can be made with the door panel in place through two small openings under the bottom edge of the door, and with the window in the fully-down position.

*Symptoms of Failure - *

Most people reported hearing a grinding, grating, crunching or clunking sounds (like gravel or sand) when the window was raised or lowered. In a few cases, no sound was heard at all, and the cable simply snapped and the window stopped working. The grinding sound is caused when one or more wire strands have broken and begin to bunch up each time the cable moves. Over time, this becomes a tangle which gets louder as the condition of the cable gets worse as the broken strand scrapes against the Regulator frame or when the bunched-up wire moves against the metal door frame inside the Cable Drive Wheel assembly. In some cases, the frayed cable can jam inside the Cable Drive Wheel assembly or jam a pulley such that the Regulator is only partially operational.

















There are few cases of the window motor failing. However this is generally uncommon, especially if a grinding nose was noted before the window failed to raise or lower indicating the cable was already beginning to fail. This would also be true in the case of snapped cable since the window motor may no longer have any effect on the Regulator.

In many of the reported failures, after a Regulator in one door failed, the Regulator in the other door failed a short time later. Given effects of corrosion and operational cycles would be relatively consistent for both doors, it's probably worth the time and cost to replace them both at the same time.

*Dealership Response - *

Rather than issuing a product recall Audi has been dealing with this as on case-by-case issue since it's not a safety issue. However due to the high number of Regulator failures, Audi (UK) will address individual customers when the complaint is raised. Some dealers are offering full replacement at no cost, while others are providing a "loyalty" discount for the repair. Prices for the replacement of the Regulator at Audi dealerships have been reported anywhere between 110-465 GBP (including parts + labor + VAT) so it's up to the customer to negotiate the price and the willingness of the dealership to recognize the defect. In a letter dated May 29, 2012 from Jon Zammett, Head of Audi Public Relations, Audi is aware of the issue and have provided a Freephone number 0800 699888 or to contact [email protected] for further assistance

*Repairs - *

Some people have commented that they were able to "repair" a jammed Regulator by applying lubricants or sprays (e.g. white lithium grease or WD-40) however since the failure is a combination of corrosion and mechanical failure of the wire itself, the application of anti-corrosion materials is not going to solve the problem in the long term.

There are only two ways to address a broken Regulator; either replace the entire Regulator assembly, or replace the cable. Replacement Regulators are available from Audi and any number of automotive parts shops. Audi dealerships and independents are unlikely to offer replacing only the cable, however this can still be done as a DIY project since replacement cable kits are available. In either case, the entire door panel must be removed, along with a number of internal panel components, in order to access, remove and replace the Regulator. While relatively easy to do, average DIY repair times varied from 1-3 hours based on the skill and knowledge levels of the person doing the repair. Additionally, no specialized tools are required to perform the replacement.

In most reported cases, only the cable needed to be replaced and not the entire Regulator assembly. However if you do the repairs yourself, check the condition of the regulator frame, as there have been reports of the damaged cables rubbing and wearing against the frames or causing additional damage other components. In some instances, where non-OEM cables were replaced by previous owners, the non-OEM cables were too short, which placed excessive tension on the assembly, deforming the frames or caused unnecessary wear of the pullies. Check the condition of the main drive wheel assembly, the pulleys, and condition of the Drivers. Additionally, when re-installing the window glass, check that the rubber support pads are still on the forward Driver.

*OEM Audi Regulators - *

The OEM Audi Regulators are manufactured by Brose, out of Slovakia. Product labels include both the Audi logo and the Brose logo in addition to the Audi Part number 8J0 837 461 followed by a letter designator for left or right depending on the model year. There is also a date code across the lower part of the label (e.g. 4.02.2013 09:42:38) followed by a letter. While not confirmed, this letter in the lower right corner of the label is believed to be the revision designator. During the production years of the Mk2 TT, there were some design changes to the Regulator; cables were upgraded to stainless steel and front Driver was modified with a wider support bracket and secondary adjustment plate. This is only from observations of Regulators available online, and not from Brose themselves. While Brose Regulators are still available from Audi and other suppliers, it is advised to avoid any Regulator built prior to 2011 as they could still have the older, galvanized steel cables.

*Non-OEM Regulators and Cables - *

Reports are mixed for aftermarket non-OEM Regulators. While most are acceptable, some have been noted with various issues from lower quality components, changes in frame size and hardware locations, and minor dimensional changes which can make the Replacement non-OEM Regulator more difficult to install and adjust. Aftermarket stainless steel Cable replacement kits are also available, however they are also reports of minor design changes in hardware, accurate lengths and component quality.









If you only replace the cable, be sure it fits the existing pulleys and drive wheel grooves correctly. The groove diameter of the pulley/drive wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the wire. If the wire diameter is too large, it may not fit properly into the groove and wear unevenly or get pinched. If the wire diameter is too small, it can flatten, leading to work hardening and early failure.

Also check that the Driver Lug fits correctly. If the Lug is too short, can move slightly without moving the Driver thus making final up and down adjustments more difficult.

Cables which are too long will end up with a bit of slack that may affect how well the window performs. If the cable is too short, it can put unnecessary stresst on the entire frame and pullies resulting in shorter life.

Ultimately, a badly fitting cable will have a shorter life-span than one that fits properly.









*Conclusion - *

Without accepting liability outright, Audi has acknowledged early Regulator failures are an issue and will work with customers on a case-by-case basis with the dealership having the last say in the level of service they are willing to offer. In most cases, only the cable needs to be replaced, but it's often easier to just replace the entire regulator as a complete assembly. When buying a used OEM Audi Regulator, avoid any manufactured prior to 2011 and inspect the assembly carefully to ensure all parts are included.

*Reference Video Links - *

Workshop manual reference for window height & lateral alignment:

*Window Raising Adjustment*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1778114

Good video with very clear instructions for what's involved in replacing the entire regulator:

*Audi TT 8J Fensterheber Wechseln*





Overview of what's involved if you just want to replace the cables:

*How to Repair Audi TT MK 2 Electric Window Regulator*





How to remove the door card -

*Explained Retaining Clips on Audi VW Door Panel Trim*






















.


----------



## MarkyMark66

Fantastic write up SwissJetPilot very helpful 

Just had my n/s regulator go, window stuck in the down position with it raining heavily and having no garage or anywhere to put the car under cover I decided to drop it off at my local independent VAG specialist for repair. 
At least that way it's in their workshop and not left outside at the mercy of the elements......

Anybody any idea of the current price for the regulator? As I'd like some idea of what sort of figure I'm looking at for the repair. 
I've had other work carried out here previously and their labour charges are very reasonable @ £54 per hr, so comfortable with that. 
Would just like a rough idea of how much the regulator is likely to cost, it will be genuine oem parts used.

Cheers


----------



## qooqiiu

OEM price is about £150

And 1/hours labour replacing it.


----------



## MarkyMark66

Thanks, so I imagine we're looking at £250-£300 inc labour & vat..... [smiley=oops.gif]


----------



## SwissJetPilot

This guy is located up in northern UK, seems like he knows what he's doing.

"Recon your old regulator Mobile service we come to you Newcastle, Sunderland and the Durham area."

www.electricwindowrepairs.co.uk


----------



## MarkyMark66

Thanks but other end of the country to me...... 

Got it done at my local indy Quattro-Tech in St Ives

Regulator £128.20
Labour £59.40 + VAT
Total Cost £225.12

Happy with that


----------



## efunc

Is there any value in keeping hold of a 'spent' regulator, or selling it? They cost about £150 new but the repair cables are only about £20. I was thinking that repairing a genuine one and refurbing it would be better than chucking it away or buying a cheap third party version. I really don't have the time or inclination to bother myself, but if anyone wants to have a go on mine, give me a shout!


----------



## abeall11219

Anyone know if Audi still fix FOC? My 2007 TT window regulator went this morning, I spoke to Audi UK head office and they said down to local stealer. I'm not holding out much hope an 11 year old car will qualify for a free fix, despite a full Audi service history. Anyone had recent experience?


----------



## qooqiiu

Full Audi history, I'd say you have a good chance of a free replacement.


----------



## Romani44

Morning all!

This has happened to my passenger side. I am still within 3 months of purchase date from a 2nd hand dealership.

They seem to think it's a quick fix which is worrying because I watched the video and it looks fiddly unless you are Audi aware.

Under the consumer rights act they are liable for the repair with a maximum contribution of £250.

Just wondered if I have a leg to stand on taking it direct to an Audi dealership even though I didn't buy it from one? Does Audi's loyalty stretch this far?


----------



## krish87

It is quite a quick fix. 
I've had both of mine go. 
Purchased part from ECP and local garage installed within one hour both times.

No issues so far.


----------



## davenearside

I'm genuinely sick to the back teeth of the window regulator issue. If it rears it's head on the 8S I'm seeking advice from the DVSA. It's a potentially dangerous fault in that when you want your window to go up it should go up. Audi are aware it's a problem and still recognise 2006-2009 cars 8J. My advice is call customer services, prove some Audi brand loyalty (give me strength) and haggle down the diagnostic fee at your local dealer. Failing that get a window regulator from Tps for about £130 quid and find an independent garage with a low labour rate. Genuine part is I think best as it's apparently had a design revision. Cheers


----------



## Andyyam750

Replaced my drivers side one last weekend, surprise surprise obvious signs of someone being in the door before (missing trim clips etc)..

Non factory poor quality regulator removed and OEM quality replacement installed, window adjusted and reset following guides on the Knowledge Base (Thanks Guys) [smiley=book2.gif]

And now I have a fully functioning window and no more air leak.. If any one has a broken OEM one or better still a pair I am interested in buying and refurbing with stainless cable and then just keeping em handy for when the inevitable happens..


----------



## peter-ss

Andyyam750 said:


> urprise surprise obvious signs of someone being in the door before (missing trim clips etc)..


It's important that all trim clips and seals are in place as the side impact detection is via a pressure sensor in the door.

I suspect of too many clips were missing the side airbags wouldn't work correctly.


----------



## Andyyam750

peter-ss said:


> Andyyam750 said:
> 
> 
> 
> urprise surprise obvious signs of someone being in the door before (missing trim clips etc)..
> 
> 
> 
> It's important that all trim clips and seals are in place as the side impact detection is via a pressure sensor in the door.
> 
> I suspect of too many clips were missing the side airbags wouldn't work correctly.
Click to expand...

Yeah I had read that so bought a bag full of replacement clips before staring the job.. top tip though..


----------



## csquire3

Hi all, had my 2007 TT about 3 months, barely driven it and I can add my drivers side window regulator to this list.

After reading the thread I contacted Audi UK and my local Audi dealership (Chelmsford) to see how receptive they might be to this common problem. Wasn't get much cooperation, "out of warranty", "needs £60 diagnosis", etc, etc. Basically they were putting up barriers and trying to be as inconvenient as possible without actually saying 'no'.

After reading all of this thread I have decided to have a go myself using the youtube guide in conjunction withthe very well written guide from this forum.

I'm not a mechanic (far from it) but I'll let you know how I get on. So far I have managed to remove the regulator (took me 2.5hr as I went very slowly), nothing broken yet.

I don't like the sound of after market regulators so have decided to send it to 'Chalkya' in Tyne & Wear and he'll replace the cable for a small extra fee and send back to me. I didn't fancy changing the cable myself.

I suspect the hardest part will be adjusting it to get proper closure but fingers crossed.

The hardest part so far was finding a box big enough to send it to him!!

UPDATE - I got my refurbished regulator back from Alan "Chalkya" last week and spent most of Friday putting it all back together. It was fairly straightforward but I did spend 2-3hrs fettling and adjusting to get a tight seal. I'm please with the result and the total cost including £27 in postage (there and back) was £60. I am pleased I wen this route rather than buying an aftermarket product.

I did have 2 warning lights on the dash but these went out after 2 mins of driving,

If I can do it then most people could, I do have the benefit of a garage and a spare car so I could afford to have my car off the road and take my time.


----------



## m4rkje

Successfully replaced for £255 by "German Auto Engineering" of Portsmouth

Many thanks guys, great service


----------



## Essexaviator

SwissJetPilot said:


> This original post started on 23 Nov 2011 so I have summarized the 61 pages and 7-years of posts for your reading pleasure -
> 
> *Overview - *
> 
> The Audi TT MK2 window Regulator problem has been attributed to failed Bowden cables which are incorporated into the window Regulator frames. There are typically two modes of failure: (1) a broken wire strand becomes entangled in the cable drive wheel or pulleys or (2) the cable snaps completely. In the first case, the window may still operate intermittently, in the second, it may render one or both Drivers useless. Failure of cables in the early Regulators (07's thru 09's) was attributed the use of galvanized steel cables which were not sufficiently corrosion resistant and more susceptible to work hardening. Later models were manufactured with stainless steel cables which are more corrosion resistant and less susceptible to work hardening.
> 
> *Failure Mode - *
> 
> One of the most common failures modes for steel wire and cable is mechanical embrittlement due to work hardening. If you take a paperclip and bend it back and forth repeatedly it will eventually break due to work hardening. This is exactly what's happening to the strands of the cable as they repeatedly pass over the pulleys every time the window is opened or closed. Three key factors associated the Regulator cable failure include material selection, corrosion resistance and cycle frequently (how often the window goes up and down). Ultimately these three factors will determine the lifetime of the cable. In the case of replacement cables, not only is material selection important, but the diameter of the wire must match the groove geometry of the pulleys. If the cable diameter is too large it will get pinched, if too small, it will flatten. In both cases, the action of the pulley can contribute to work hardening the wire over its lifetime, resulting reduced service life.
> 
> *Regulator Operation - *
> 
> The Regulator is comprised of four primary components (1) a Bowden cable (2) a front and rear Regulator frame, each with an upper and lower guide pulley, (3) a front and rear window Driver which secures the window in place and slides up and down the frames by means of the cables and (4) the Cable Drive Wheel assembly which is powered by the window motor. The two ends of the cable are secured inside the main drive wheel and arranged into a figure-8 configuration such that it leaves the main cable drive wheel, and passes over two pulleys on the top and bottom of both frames. The Drivers are connected to the cable by the means of a swaged lugs, such that when the cable moves, both front and rear Drivers slide up and down on the frames. When power is applied to the window motor, the main drive wheel rotates, the cable moves the Drivers up or down thus raising or lowering the window.
> 
> 
> In the rear Driver, a bolt passes through the outer side, through a hole in the window glass, and when tightened, supports and clamps the window to the Driver. In the front Driver, it only clamps to the edge of the window glass, securing it in place. The wires are secured to each of the Drivers by means of a fixed lug which is permanently swaged to the wire, thus maintaining the relative position of the cable and the Drivers. In both cases, the each Driver can be adjusted up or down to ensure the window seals properly when raised. Adjustments can be made with the door panel in place through two small openings under the bottom edge of the door, and with the window in the fully-down position.
> 
> *Symptoms of Failure - *
> 
> Most people reported hearing a grinding, grating, crunching or clunking sounds (like gravel or sand) when the window was raised or lowered. In a few cases, no sound was heard at all, and the cable simply snapped and the window stopped working. The grinding sound is caused when one or more wire strands have broken and begin to bunch up each time the cable moves. Over time, this becomes a tangle which gets louder as the condition of the cable gets worse as the broken strand scrapes against the Regulator frame or when the bunched-up wire moves against the metal door frame inside the Cable Drive Wheel assembly. In some cases, the frayed cable can jam inside the Cable Drive Wheel assembly or jam a pulley such that the Regulator is only partially operational.
> 
> There are few cases of the window motor failing. However this is generally uncommon, especially if a grinding nose was noted before the window failed to raise or lower indicating the cable was already beginning to fail. This would also be true in the case of snapped cable since the window motor may no longer have any effect on the Regulator.
> 
> In many of the reported failures, after a Regulator in one door failed, the Regulator in the other door failed a short time later. Given effects of corrosion and operational cycles would be relatively consistent for both doors, it's probably worth the time and cost to replace them both at the same time.
> 
> *Dealership response - *
> 
> Rather than issuing a product recall Audi has been dealing with this as on case-by-case issue since it's not a safety issue. However due to the high number of Regulator failures, Audi (UK) will address individual customers when the complaint is raised. Some dealers are offering full replacement at no cost, while others are providing a "loyalty" discount for the repair. Prices for the replacement of the Regulator at Audi dealerships have been reported anywhere between 110-465 GBP (including parts + labor + VAT) so it's up to the customer to negotiate the price and the willingness of the dealership to recognize the defect. In a letter dated May 29, 2012 from Jon Zammett, Head of Audi Public Relations, Audi is aware of the issue and have provided a Freephone number 0800 699888 or to contact [email protected] for further assistance
> 
> *Repairs - *
> 
> Some people have commented that they were able to "repair" a jammed Regulator by applying lubricants or sprays (e.g. white lithium grease or WD-40) however since the failure is a combination of corrosion and mechanical failure of the wire itself, the application of anti-corrosion materials is not going to solve the problem in the long term.
> 
> There are only two ways to address a broken Regulator; either replace the entire Regulator assembly, or replace the cable. Replacement Regulators are available from Audi and any number of automotive parts shops. Audi dealerships and independents are unlikely to offer replacing only the cable, however this can still be done as a DIY project since replacement cable kits are available. In either case, the entire door panel must be removed, along with a number of internal panel components, in order to access, remove and replace the Regulator. While relatively easy to do, average DIY repair times varied from 1-3 hours based on the skill and knowledge levels of the person doing the repair. Additionally, no specialized tools are required to perform the replacement.
> 
> In most reported cases, only the cable needed to be replaced and not the entire Regulator assembly. However if you do the repairs yourself, check the condition of the regulator frame, as there have been reports of the damaged cables rubbing and wearing against the frames or causing additional damage other components. In some instances, where non-OEM cables were replaced by previous owners, the non-OEM cables were too short, which placed excessive tension on the assembly, deforming the frames or caused unnecessary wear of the pullies. Check the condition of the main drive wheel assembly, the pulleys, and condition of the Drivers. Additionally, when re-installing the window glass, check that the rubber support pads are still on the forward Driver.
> 
> *OEM Audi Regulators - *
> 
> The OEM Audi Regulators are manufactured by Brose, out of Slovakia. Product labels include both the Audi logo and the Brose logo in addition to the Audi Part number 8J0 837 461 followed by a letter designator for left or right depending on the model year. There is also a date code across the lower part of the label (e.g. 4.02.2013 09:42:38) followed by a letter. While not confirmed, this letter in the lower right corner of the label is believed to be the revision designator. During the production years of the Mk2 TT, there were some design changes to the Regulator; cables were upgraded to stainless steel and front Driver was modified with a wider support bracket and secondary adjustment plate. This is only from observations of Regulators available online, and not from Brose themselves. While Brose Regulators are still available from Audi and other suppliers, it is advised to avoid any Regulator built prior to 2011 as they could still have the older, galvanized steel cables.
> 
> *Non-OEM Regulators and Cables - *
> 
> Reports are mixed for aftermarket non-OEM Regulators. While most are acceptable, some have been noted with various issues from lower quality components, changes in frame size and hardware locations, and minor dimensional changes which can make the Replacement non-OEM Regulator more difficult to install and adjust. Aftermarket stainless steel Cable replacement kits are also available, however they are also reports of minor design changes in hardware, accurate lengths and component quality.
> 
> If you only replace the cable, be sure it fits the existing pulleys and drive wheel grooves correctly. The groove diameter of the pulley/drive wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the wire. If the wire diameter is too large, it may not fit properly into the groove and wear unevenly or get pinched. If the wire diameter is too small, it can flatten, leading to work hardening. In either case, a badly fitting cable will have a shorter life-span than one that fits properly.
> 
> *Conclusion - *
> 
> Without accepting liability outright, Audi has acknowledged early Regulator failures are an issue and will work with customers on a case-by-case basis with the dealership having the last say in the level of service they are willing to offer. In most cases, only the cable needs to be replaced, but it's often easier to just replace the entire regulator as a complete assembly. When buying a used OEM Audi Regulator, avoid any manufactured prior to 2011 and inspect the assembly carefully to ensure all parts are included.
> 
> *Reference Video Links - *
> 
> Good video with very clear instructions for what's involved in replacing the entire regulator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overview of what's involved if you just want to replace the cables:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workshop manual reference for window height & lateral alignment:
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1778114
> .


Great write up thanks
Steve


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## Essexaviator

Drivers window Reg being done by Southend Audi today with dealer goodwill contribution reducing it to total of £75 for the supply and fit of oem regulator.

They have maintained the car over the last 9 years including two cam belts so it's only fair they reduced the cost.


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## XMark

It's a fairly simple procedure.
Here's how I did it


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## The Yeoman

Did it today on my 2008 TT in under 2 hours thanks to the great youtube videos.. not difficult at all


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## peteholloway

A few weeks ago I lowered the passenger window and heard a loud bang as the window reached the lower limit. Needless to say the cable had snapped.

I removed the cable from the regulator, reinstalled it without the cable and managed to use cable ties to hold the regulator clamps in place with the window lowered a fraction so that the door could still open and close, as an interim measure.

I found a replacement cable on eBay in Germany at a 10th of the cost of a new regulator which arrived yesterday, so last night I tackled the fitting of the cable.

The cable appeared to be slightly too short, so once it was installed, had a huge amount of tension on it, so much that the window didn't go up or down all the way when the regulator was re-installed, so I took it all apart again. I noticed that both tensioner springs were compressed to their max. I also noticed that one of the springs from the original cable was slightly shorter than the new spring when compressed, so I used the old spring with the new cable. Now there was a millimeter or so to spare before the spring compresses to the max.

I put everything back together again and my passenger window now works as it should... long may it last.


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## ADB

When I replaced the drivers side regulator a while ago I broke the glass and had to replace this as well. Its all fitted, however after several attempts to get the glass perfectly aligned I still can't.. :x 
When the door is opened it catches at the rear seal if you open it 'normally'. If you pull the handle but don't open the door immediately it doesn't catch. Also at 70+ MPH there is wind noise.
I tried comparing it to the passenger side whilst trying to align no end of times but its obviously not right.

Any tips on getting this perfect?


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## qooqiiu

The bolt that actually secures the glass to the regulator gives you a lot of adjustment. Like 8mm or so up/down left/right

It does take a lot of trial and error to it it right. I've done both of mine and two other peoples cars now and that bolt gets them to where they need to be. I've not had to fine tune with the bolts underneath the door at all.


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## ADB

qooqiiu said:


> The bolt that actually secures the glass to the regulator gives you a lot of adjustment. Like 8mm or so up/down left/right
> 
> It does take a lot of trial and error to it it right. I've done both of mine and two other peoples cars now and that bolt gets them to where they need to be. I've not had to fine tune with the bolts underneath the door at all.


You are obviously better at it than me  And I am guessing you mean the two bolts that secure the glass - one at the front and one at the rear?

I thought I had it sorted the last time I tried adjusting it but its either 'settled' and moved slightly or I just did a poor job.
I'll get the door card off again sometime this week and have another go. If I can't get it right I'll have to take it somewhere...

Cheers


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## qooqiiu

The bolt I'm talking about is the one that secures the glass with the hole in it, the one closest to the handle.

The torque for both bolts on the glass is 7nm. Did you use a new OEM unit or was it a cable replacement jobbie?


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## ADB

qooqiiu said:


> The bolt I'm talking about is the one that secures the glass with the hole in it, the one closest to the handle.
> 
> The torque for both bolts on the glass is 7nm. Did you use a new OEM unit or was it a cable replacement jobbie?


Yes, that bolt and the one at the rear - surely both need to be moved to get the lateral position correct?
I used a 3rd party unit. Which I suppose could be the problem, however the reviews were all spot on and it wasn't that much cheaper than an OEM unit. I still have the OEM unit in the garage which could be repaired with the cable.
I think its just my p1ss-poor alignment that's the issue.
If I get some time and a couple of dry hours I'll have another go this week.

Cheers


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## Art1975

Can anyone please send a quick instruction (with photos would be lovely) how to adjust an angle of the window in mk2. I know this thread is old and all useful photos expired. Yet, perhaps, someone will show me mercy here 

Attached is pic of my door with some markings to refer to.
I need to adjust the angle as at the moment the glass is going too hard against roof seal side which creates a gap couple inches lower (door handle direction).

Please help. Thanks!


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## chriscapon

My drivers side window has been playing up the past couple of days. Would only go half way back up before it stopped, so had to put it up bit by bit. 
Today it was making some awful crunching noises and really didn't want to budge. I tried it one more time and though pressing down, it managed to slowly work its way back up; bizarre. Does this sound like it could be the regulator?


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## peter-ss

Unfortunately, it does.


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## peter-ss

I just came across this information, which is very useful to explain the importance of the door card clips to the side impact detection pressure sensor.

https://astech.com/oem-info/audi-front- ... EOfZfwHdLU

"For proper crash sensor (pressure sensor) function, ensure door does not leak. All components (for example, cover, speaker, door trim) must be installed correctly. The door trim panel clips seal the system. Replace the clips, if necessary"


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## veloce500

This has been described as a 'legendary' fail by SJP, passenger side 2007 TT Roadster 88000 miles. Evidence suggests that it might not be the first failure in this door (one clip was missing when we took the door trim off)


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## surfinbear

I recently had to change mine out as well and the regulator looked IDENTICAL to the picture above.

Fortunately, I was surprised how easy the part was to install using the videos and advice from this forum...even laid some sound dampening when the door panel was off.

This was my first Audi repair and I'm no longer scared of the car that "only the pros can touch."


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## robertmgibson

Very easily replaced loads of YouTube videos had to do mine in the summer less than 50£ for new part of ebay


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## Quattro99

Had to do mine 3 times in 2 years, (passenger x1 and driver's x2) using cheap repair kits off eBay, I guess the problem is the quality of the cable, its a bit of a lucky dip, no one seems to advertise stainless steel. I now place some masking tape on the windows as guides before removing so that I can bolt them back in the same position. I also make sure there is plenty of grease on the cables and spray the runners with PTFE lubricant.

My Mk2 is a TTS and as far as reliability goes, is a dream compared to my MK1 TT 225 quattro.

The Mk 1 regulators are a lot more involved than the Mk2's, I've just had to do the passenger side on the MK1, the driver's side is starting to stop in stages too now, so I'll get a replacement cable in anticipation! I also recently changed both door lock mechanisms because the auto window seal when shutting (and dropping when opening) stopped working too, as well as £595 to change a broken heater matrix that I didn't fancy tackling. I've had umpteen 'common' problems, the latest ones being leaking batteries that have ruined the siren, more dash dial & lcd problems, and a battery drain. Like me, its old and ALWAYS has something wrong with it :lol:


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## mdickens98

I'm a new TT owner (mk2 roadster) and the first job I tackled was the window regulator on the drivers door. It was sticking and making lots of crunchy noises. I took it out to find it was not a genuine OEM regulator but the cable looked in tact so I stripped it, cleaned and lubricated it and refitted it, window now goes up and down a treat, only problem is it goes down too far. Once it does this the one touch up stops working, unless I wind it all the way up again first. Any idea how to stop it going down too far?


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