# Rear Brake binding



## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

As above.
Drivers rear brake gets very hot, so i will be getting new EBC Red Stuff pads to replace them.I will have to see if the caliper will free off before fitting the new pads.
I think my rear discs have got too much of a lip in them now, so will need replacing at the same time.
What would people recommend disc wise, Normal, drilled or drilled/Grooved?
I might get more Mpg soon


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

Just get pagid discs from euro car parts. Also you can get the caliper there too and it's a surcharge item so you'll also get money back when you return your old one.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Install a brake drag reduction clip.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

I dont think drag clips are the answer. The caliper is binding.
If the caliper wont clean up,i will get it replaced.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

The parking brake cable is probably not releasing.


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## kerwinrobertson (Sep 3, 2018)

For the rears just get normal disks. Drilled disks can crack and wear the pads more, create more dust and noise too. Outgassing of modern pads is a thing of the past, so the need for the holes to remove gas is negligible. 
Slotted or J hook are a good compromise, but a good set of standard disks is good too.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

Wolvez. So where are you buying these drag reduction clips your championing


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

HAWKS said:


> Wolvez. So where are you buying these drag reduction clips your championing


Search Carlson 18379


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I'm not convinced DRT "Drag Reduction Technology" is the answer to the problem. Obviously there's something wrong with the brake system to cause brake drag in the first place (...old school Quality Assurance method of the 5-whys).

If the brake system and calipers worked properly, this spring wouldn't be required. And even if it works, which it probably does quite well, it doesn't solve the root cause of the problem. From a bit of research on this, there are a number of reasons a disc brake will drag-

- Faulty caliper piston
- Caliper misalignment
- Lack of lubricant on the abutment tabs
- Tight fitting pad
- One or more sets of shoes that were adjusted too tightly 
- A broken or weak return spring
- A sticky pull cable for the hand brake
- Seals on the front disc loosing their flexibility 
- A faulty power booster
- Blocked master cylinder return port

I think rather than tossing money on something that masks the problem, it would be better to actually solve the problem.

Now if Brembo starts offering them, maybe I'd get behind the idea. But as soon as I see phrases like "optimize gas mileage" or "improve performance" in the advertisement, that's usually the tip off it's not totally legit. To me this just smacks of a brake industry scam in a desperate attempt to sell the public something just because they can.

If you're getting a bit of a squeal and your pads are in good shape, it could be something as simple as rotor glaze. I get it quite often on my rotors if I'm hard on the brakes when I'm running a-bahn speeds (>100mph). And you can remove that with a ScotchBrite pad.

Just my two cents -


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

I agree with you swiss.
Im getting new discs and redstuff pads all round, i wasnt thinking of a quick fix with DRT...
Ive found Brembo xtra rear discs but not Brembo xtra front discs. I cant even see them on Brembo's site  
I might end up with a new rear caliper or two yet


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Seized rear calipers are quite common due to the handbrake mechanism seizing. Taking it apart and greasing and lubricating the moving parts might help. I did this when I changed my disks/pads but still after a year ended up replacing them both with remanufactured ones and they are a lot better (no binding and also the handbrake lever is smoother to use)


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I think rather than tossing money on something that masks the problem, it would be better to actually solve the problem.


I Just love that you said this. This is so true. I work of the NHS and tossing money at a problem is what everyone seems to do best without actually solving the root cause problem. As as former gas turbine engineer, I keep pushing my team to do failure analysis, keep digging, keep asking questions to find what's caused the failure rather than just replace with new only for it all to happen again..

Sorry bit off topic but just had to say..


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

I intend to solve my rear brakes binding issue correctly, but first my discs have lips on them so i will need to change them.i will need New pads before i can get the caliper issue looked at and fixed. That might need 1 or 2 new rear calipers yet.


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

This was the state of one of the rear discs before I got the whole lot refurbished. So glad I did because the brakes are so much better now. 









I went for the drilled and grooved for no better reason than the looks. Performance wise it wont make any difference for normal everyday driving. I also used EBC Ultimax pads.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

What discs did yo go for? Price


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Whilst I think drilled and grooved discs look awesome, I can't help but think that they act like a cheese grater on the pads... I get the whole temperature displacement and on the track with heavy braking it serves a purpose but on the road?

Do look good though, so the extra cost of a few pads.... I get it


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

HAWKS said:


> What discs did yo go for? Price


These are the ones I got. £60 for the pair. Got the fronts as well. Many sizes available.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-GROOVED ... 2749.l2649


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

Ive gone for std Brembo discs with red stuff pads.
I will probably need rear calipers too yet


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

HAWKS said:


> Ive gone for std Brembo discs with red stuff pads.
> I will probably need rear calipers too yet


I did ponder going for the Red stuff pads. However they do need to get a bit warm before being really effective. I dont do long distances hence just went for the Ultimax. The comparison guide on the EBC website gives a good description of each pad to make an informed choice.

New calipers are not that pricey. Alternatively you could buy a seal kit and refurb them yourself - not that difficult to do.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

Ive had red stuff pads in for the last few years. Fantastic pads from cold with very little brake dust.
I had green stuff pads on my previous A4. Ok but not as good as the reds.
Ive had ultimax pads, i had lots of squealing, Not a patch on the green stuff.
Red stuff all the way for what i need, normal driving/ fast spirited driving to the legal limits officer :roll:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just in case it's a stuck parking brake cable -

It's covered in the workshop manual: D3E8006C71C - Brake System


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Could rear brakes binding be the cause of a regular squeak every revolution of rear left wheel upon turning car to the right??

I thought it was the front left but I took that off, had a look at pads, calipers and disks. No issues. Lubed it up as well.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would check for glaze first. Scotchbite will take car of it. My local mechanic did all four rotors for 20-Euros.


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## deextr (Sep 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I would check for glaze first. Scotchbite will take car of it. My local mechanic did all four rotors for 20-Euros.


€20?? can we move to your part of the world??


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

New brakes arrived today.
I will try an book my TT in to get them fitted and check out why the rears are binding.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

Update.
I hope to be getting my TT back today, its had both rear calipers replaced.
Not looking forward to paying that bill :-o :-o :-o


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

Cars back.
The brakes are sqealing like a mother F****r.
Ive been told they need bedding in. Ive done that alright, 3 huge stops from 80 mph enough to bring the hazard lights on and smoke coming off the front pads/dics. Still sqealing.  
Any clips that might need changing?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Bedding in new brakes means gentle braking not huge stops.
If you DIY you can chamfer the lading edges & apply plastilube to all metal to metal contact points most "technicians/mechanics" do neither so they squeal.
Hoggy.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Romani44 said:


> Could rear brakes binding be the cause of a regular squeak every revolution of rear left wheel upon turning car to the right??
> 
> I thought it was the front left but I took that off, had a look at pads, calipers and disks. No issues. Lubed it up as well.


Mine does the same highly annoying :x looks like I need new rear callipers , I've got new disks and pads ready to be installed anyone know the price of 2 new callipers for TTS ?


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

I was charged £101+vat each for my 3.2 rear calipers from tPS i think.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*The bed-in process*

Also known as break-in, conditioning, or burnishing, this method deposits an even layer of material from the brake pad onto the friction surface of the disc rotor. This layer, known as a transfer layer, enhances the friction-generating properties of your pads and rotors, improving your brakes' performance and extending their lifespan.

1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.

2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate "green fade."

3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.

4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.

5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.

6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.

*Here are the basic steps on how to bed your brakes:*

1. The bedding-in process requires lots of accelerating and quick decelerating. Perform this process early in the morning and in a low-traffic area so that you avoid other vehicles.

2. From 60 MPH, apply the brakes gently a few times to bring them up to their usual operating temperature. This prepares your pads and rotors for the high heat generated in the next steps.

3. Make a near-stop from 60 to about 10 MPH. Press the brakes firmly, but not so hard that the ABS engages or the wheels lock. Once you've slowed down, immediately speed up to 60 MPH and apply the brakes again. Perform this cycle 8-10 times. *Do not come to a complete stop!* If you hold the brake pedal down while stopped you will leave excessive pad material on the rotors and ruin your braking performance.

4. Once you've performed that final near-stop, accelerate and drive a bit more, trying to use the brakes as little as possible so they can cool down. Again, do not come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot. (Avoid traffic!)

5. If you are bedding in performance/racing brakes, you may have to perform extra near-stops from a higher speed.

*Some more notes about bedding:*

- Brand new brake pads and rotors will have very little braking power on their first few applications. Gently apply your brakes from low speeds a few times to establish some grip before you take your vehicle onto the highway or busy roads.

- Don't immediately bed your brakes if you have brand new rotors with phosphate, cadmium, or zinc plating. Do some normal driving to polish the plating off the rotors before bedding in your brakes.

- After you perform the break-in cycle you should see a light gray film and a slight blue tint on the rotor face. The gray film is material from the pads transferring onto the rotor face, and the blue tint indicates that the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature. These are good signs that you have bedded your brakes properly.

- Some brakes, such as big brake kits or new pads installed onto old rotors, may require a second bed-in cycle. Let the brakes cool down fully before performing the second cycle.

*Issues with Special Coatings - *

If you installed rotors with zinc plating or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone bedding until normal driving has allowed your pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water before installation.

*Sources:*
https://www.dbabrakes.eu/basic-initial-brake-bed-in
https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/B ... our-Brakes
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/inde ... =6446_6443


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## CharlieS (Jan 5, 2018)

Interesting thread, thanks Swiss for the bedding in guide!

I'm going with a Vagbremtechnic j hooked set up on 19th aug - upgraded 335mm discs at the back with Brembo hp sport pads all round.

Will post pics and let you know how I get on!


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Knight-tts said:


> Romani44 said:
> 
> 
> > Could rear brakes binding be the cause of a regular squeak every revolution of rear left wheel upon turning car to the right??
> ...


You think you could record your audio and send it over? Did you get it looked at by somebody for diagnosis? Would be good to know if this is the likely cause.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

300 miles in and they are still squealing.
The rears are fine, its the fronts.
The slightest of touch on the peddle an they squeal. If you brake mediun/to hard they are silent.if you brake slowly then apply a bit firmer braking force and then release slowly braking to a stop(normal braking), they will squeal-silent-squeal.    
Ive ordered front brake pad spring plates as mine are rusty, so i will fit them and inspect my front brakes myself.


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## HAWKS (Mar 31, 2018)

UPDATE
Ive managed to wangle new EBC red stuff front pads from carparts4less..
Ive fitted them tonight myself rather than pay the garage again.
Old pads had NO ant squeal shims fitted to the pads, the garage say they were missing from the pad set....
Not HP.
All sorted now.
I hope carparts4less dont charge me for another set...


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