# Solved : 2L TFSI Intermittent Low Oil Pressure Error



## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I started seeing these errors just before the 75.000 km oil change.
Some info to diagnose the issue:
I installed this on the 60.000 km oil service










This was installed by VW dealer.
At around 74000 I had an oil level warning and added some oil.
When I wanted to do an oil change (I do oil changes every 15k km between each dealer service), I discovered a leak in the qwickvalve fiber gasket washer. Qwickvalve provided me with spare washers and I reinstalled the qwickvalve. the leak was due to the fact that the dealer overtightened the qwickvalve and cracked the gasket washer. I tightened it with the right qwickvalve indicated torque.
A week later the oil level warning came back. I looked underneath yesterday and found no leak on the qwickvalve. This morning I had a low pressure warning. I was running VCDS on my carpc when the error showed up and could see the oil level was reading over 50mm while warning level was reading 34mm. I checked VCD for errors but no errors were found.
Another info is that I hit an unmarked road bump at about 20/30 km as I applied the brakes hard and a bit late when I spotted it. I did hear the car hitting the bump. I checked the underneath of the car and there was no damage.
So is the oil pump going bad?
Are the oil level or oil pressure sensors going crazy?
I don't want to take it to Audi right now as it is running fine and no noise or funky engine behavior has been noticed. The errors don't stay on the DIS more than a few seconds. 
Any info on how to use VCDS to diagnose the oil pump or do further diagnosis before hitting an Audi dealer?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

after some googling found a similar issure:

http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index ... ic=36395.0

faulty part is n° 38 and it needs the sump to be off:










But I don't think this is my issue as I do oil changes every 15k km !!!

Now I'm worried


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I will start with replacing the oil pressure switch: 06d 919 081 B


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Any chance that the sensor or the wire was damaged by the bump?

And to not add to your worries but remember this topic?:

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=292786&


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I checked the sensor and there was no apparent damage. I disconnect/reconnected it. The Oil Level message is apparently gone and I only have the Low Pressure message now on every journey after about half an hour of normal driving and at low rpm. 
I don't think it is a sludge problem as I do oil changes every 15k km. the engine is running smooth. The pressure sender might be the culprit here. I'll try to have it changed tomorrow and see.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

If oil changes every 15k km wouldn't prevent sludge.... 

Let's hope it's just the pressure sender then and that the bump is just a coincidence. But do be careful with oil pressure issues. Perhaps the dealer can connect a real gauge to check if the oil pressure meets the specs. Or is the pressure sensor doing that too and isn't it only an on-off switch?

Bon chance!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

the pressure switch is just and on/off switch.

Merci :wink:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Yesterday and this morning i got the error after 22 mn of driving. The error lasts 4 to 5 seconds.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

And i only have it once on each trip ! and it does not stay on ! The switch is wto state relay. should either be on or off. Why would it change states for 5 seconds only !!!!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

any vcds experts to help with the right measure blocks to check for any engine wear or signs of engine parts malfunctioning?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

- what's the oil temperature when this happens? Could it be so high that the oil is actually low on viscosity?

- have you tried moving the oil pressure sensor's cable about while the engine is running? Perhaps the cable has a poor connection or an internal break leading to the computer thinking the pressure sensor gives a warning.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Temps are ok. I'm logging this morning's trip in vcds right now


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

31 mn and still no warning. Oil temp 93. oil level 53. coolant temp 89. rpm 1400.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Still driving  oil level goes from 47 to 56mm. I'm doing 70- 100 km/h.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I'm probably killing this thing but i refuse to believe she's dying after all the care I gave her


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

vcds logs:


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Interesting oil level behaviour there. During the drive there is a 7 mm difference between min and max. If that matches with the millimeters on the dipstick, then at least it's something worth keeping an eye on.

Thinking about the oil pressure switch: if it's indeed just an on/off switch, then the actual oil pressure isn't measured, hence there is no measure block in VCDS.

Perhaps next time add voltage to the logs too. Coolant , air-intake and oil temps look OK to me. I have the same figures on mine.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

the difference is always the same wether the oil level rises with acceleration or lower with deceleration. I think it's normal. it also means the oil flow through the sump => oil pump => engine is ok !! I'll try to get more measure blocks to see if I can diagnose any engine wear which might explain the low pressure thing.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

can you log your oil levels, please?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> can you log your oil levels, please?


Wish I could. I have an OBD2 reader that allows me to check for errors and to get hold of some data. But it's not too VAG specific and doesn't allow me to go where VCDS goes. 

So the logs last for just 95 seconds? Then differences in oil level could indeed be oil moving from back to front. But otherwise, where can the engine hide 0.5l of oil?

And there is no coolant leak in the oil cooler, mixing coolant and oil?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

no apparent leaks. coolant level has been steady since it was topped up by Audi when at 12.000 km it started going down. They did a pressure test on the coolant and no leaks was found.
I just got hold a new oil pressure switch from a VW dealer nearby. Will install it tonight, change oil and filter again and see how it goes after that.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

this is what I'm afraid of but you need to take the sump off to check. I changed oil every 15k km to avoid this kind of issues.

Oil pickup pipe









clogged :


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

You don't have an endoscope by any chance to have a look in the sump? You could check the state of the sieve visually.

As you may be aware, I change my oil between services too. If 15k km is still too big an interval then I know I need to give my TT even more love in order to avoid an expensive divorce.

What oil do you use?

I'm checking out German forums too. No luck so far.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

our posts crossed. I'm with you


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I would take the sump if it it had a standard gasket instead of the damn silicone paste. It needs robotic precision to avoid putting half of it inside the sump ! I'm looking for a company who makes a gasket for the BWA engine sump.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I just checked the workshop manual. The sump has both bolts going bottom up as well as 3 bolts going sideways. I don't think a gasket will be thin enough for these side bolts to still fit. The silicone comes from a tube with a marking where to cut it open so you get a 3 mm opening. The bead of silicone on the sump has to be between 2 and 3 mm. It all looks do-able. But for less than 100 euros you can buy an endoscope. It's still on my Christmas wish list. Potentially it would also allow me to check for carbon on the inlet valves.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> But for less than 100 euros you can buy an endoscope. It's still on my Christmas wish list. Potentially it would also allow me to check for carbon on the inlet valves.


I though about this. Didn't think it will help much !! probably through the oil level sensor hole if the sump drain plug hole is not big enough.
I had the error twice last night, once going down a slope at 20 km/h ten minutes after a good 6800 rpm straight line hard acceleration and a few minutes later at about 30 km/h. So I tried to install the pressure switch but couldn't get to the damn thing :evil: I ended up doing an oil change without changing the filter as I couldn't unscrew it and broke my wrench plug !!!
What I noticed is I got 4L out of the sump and the filter (without taking it, using a VW equivalent tool to drain it) and I put back almost 5L of oil. The level is a bit over medium and VCDS oil level reads between 63 and 65. I drove work this morning and no warning...


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

something like this :

http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/1233 ... ch-BSK-100


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

This is interesting... the other day I read a topic on a German forum that said: if I drain all oil, including the filter and I fill it up with the quantity as prescribed by Audi (4.5l if I'm not mistaken) then the oil level on the dipstick is actually on minimum.

Then the question rises: is the 4.5l not enough or is the dipstick too short or what? A couple of TT owners noticed similar behaviour and now you're doing that too. One wrote the the oil consumption of his engine got less since he decided keeping the level close to minimum. But in your case it seems to cause oil pressure issues. So it seems we're now officially lost as to where the oil level should be with the BWA engine :?

Interesting that you couldn't get the filter off. When was it changed last time (and by that I mean changed, not when it appeared on the invoice last time :wink: )? Could it be your filter is clogged? Most filters have a bypass in case the filter is fully clogged but still...

Some endoscopes have a diameter of 9mm. Would that fit through the drain plug hole?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> something like this :
> 
> http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/1233 ... ch-BSK-100


Yes that is what I had in mind. Didn't know Conrad operates in France too.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> This is interesting... the other day I read a topic on a German forum that said: if I drain all oil, including the filter and I fill it up with the quantity as prescribed by Audi (4.5l if I'm not mistaken) then the oil level on the dipstick is actually on minimum.


I was surprised the level was at medium with 4L and now it's almost the same with almost 5L. I will let it cool today and check it tonight.



TT-driver said:


> Interesting that you couldn't get the filter off. When was it changed last time (and by that I mean changed, not when it appeared on the invoice last time :wink: )? Could it be your filter is clogged? Most filters have a bypass in case the filter is fully clogged but still...


The filter was changed 2 weeks ago by ME  I had a hard time unscrewing it but last night I broke the adaptor which I use with my wrench. So the filter is clean I suppose. Filter torque is 30NM according to Elsa.



TT-driver said:


> Some endoscopes have a diameter of 9mm. Would that fit through the drain plug hole?


I think it is ok. next time I will remove the oil sensor to see how much clearance i can get from there for the endoscope. I didn't want to remove it yesterday as I didn't know if needs any a new washer or not.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I'd use a new washer. There could be oil pressure at the inside of it :wink:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

just came back from a 2 hours trip in Paris with all the traffic and the heat and no warning. oil temp went to 96. oil level between 60-66. From time to time I hear a metallic squeal like brake pads are scraping against the disks. I don't hear it on braking though. I haven't changed the rear pads yet but they look ok. I thought it's posibly the oil pum making that noise but I'm not sure


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Well, if the oil sensor still detects low pressure (I assume it still does when you put the car just on ignition) then the squeal couldn't be of the oil pump, without the warning light lighting up or could it?

Applying the brakes lightly should make the squeal stop right away. Lots of brake dust and dry warm weather can introduce some brake noises.

Still in order to get some real certainty (and I can tell you are worried big time) you really need to take out the pressure sensor, connect a pressure gauge and measure the oil pressure. Only then you know if the combination of oil temperature and rpms gives you the oil pressure that is expected.

By the way which oil were you using?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> Applying the brakes lightly should make the squeal stop right away. Lots of brake dust and dry warm weather can introduce some brake noises.


not sure the tiny squeal is coming from the brakes.



TT-driver said:


> .
> 
> Still in order to get some real certainty (and I can tell you are worried big time) you really need to take out the pressure sensor, connect a pressure gauge and measure the oil pressure. Only then you know if the combination of oil temperature and rpms gives you the oil pressure that is expected.


I have to find where this damn thing is located ! ELSA showw it on top of the oil filter but it is not visible without taking things apart I guess.



TT-driver said:


> By the way which oil were you using?


That's a good question as I have some doubts now after I changed the oil last night and saw the color of the oil, it's castrol edge 5W-30 with the right spec vw507 and all that but I got a pack of 4x5L from ebay germany and I started thinking if the oil is really coming from Castrol  I have already used it 3 times but the color of the oil is kind of reddish !!! I thought about contacting Castrol with the oil reference and check the authenticity !!! getting paranoid here :mrgreen:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

and when going to Castrol web site I saw this :mrgreen:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectionb ... Id=7072854


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

That's about 2 stoke engines, the TT is a 4 stroke engine.

The spec is correct, 507.00. I have seen some complaints about castrol oil regarding the formation of hard pieces, but I can't make a firm statement. It was written that Castrol oil cannot withstand the high temperatures in the oil return line from the turbo. True or not, I don't know. I don't use Castrol oil, so I couldn't tell what colour it is. My eggs are in the Mobil basket.

According to the workshop manual, the pressure sensor is hiding behind the oil cooler, which is above the oil filter.










Number 2 is your guy.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Yeah I knew about the 2 stroke thing it was just the coincidence which attracted my attention  me having oil pressure issues and castrol recalling oil 
As for the switch I spent about 15 minutes looking for it with elsa on my laptop beside the car but couldn't spot it. I think you need to remove other parts to get to it. I will probably look for pressure gage.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

It's incredible how something so important as the oil pressure monitoring system is left out of the instrument cluster !!!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Oil pressure wasn't an issue any more for many years. In the olden days there was a real gauge on the dash pod with a constantly moving dial telling the exact oil pressure. On hot days in traffic jams oil could loose its viscosity leading to low pressure. So the driver needed to be able to monitor. Especially with sporty cars.

And where are we now: the thermal stress on the oil is too high. The intervals too long. And as a result stressed engines die from lack of oil at the right places.

How various oils behave at high temperatures:

http://bmwservice.livejournal.com/27699.html 

(put link in google for google translator to perform its magic).

It might be that the air intake pipe from the inter cooler to the intake manifold is blocking the view on the pressure switch. But perhaps it's visible if you look from the side, as in above the starter motor.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

So far so good  the oil change + the 4.8l of oil seem to have calmed down the crazy pressure switch  if this is the case the switch is probably not the culprit. Wait and see. Thanks for the link. I'll go over the info in there. Maybe time to change oil brand. 
And thanks for your support  as you noticed no one chimed with any info so I guess the problem is a minor issue after all


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## wellhouse (Jan 26, 2012)

TT-driver said:


> That's about 2 stoke engines, the TT is a 4 stroke engine.
> 
> The spec is correct, 507.00. I have seen some complaints about castrol oil regarding the formation of hard pieces, but I can't make a firm statement. It was written that Castrol oil cannot withstand the high temperatures in the oil return line from the turbo. True or not, I don't know. I don't use Castrol oil, so I couldn't tell what colour it is. My eggs are in the Mobil basket.
> 
> Do you mean you use mobil one or you think its the cause of the problem?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

hard to believe the oil is the culprit here because i do the change evry 15.000 km unless I have a bad quality oil 

Just an update: I haven't had any warnings this morning. I even pushed it to 6400 rpm. One of the measure block is showing System OK  Oil level goes to 75mm on full load.
So if the TT is going to die she is going to die hard 
Here are the logs :


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

wellhouse said:


> TT-driver said:
> 
> 
> > That's about 2 stoke engines, the TT is a 4 stroke engine.
> ...


I'm using Mobil 1 ESP formula 5W30. Hadaak is using Castrol oil. We both perform in between services oil changes and we both hope this will prevent oil related issues.

We don't yet know what the problem is. The symptom is an occasionally flashing oil pressure warning light. It could be due to the wiring or the sensor itself. In both cases it would be a false alarm. It could also mean that every now and then the oil pressure is indeed too low. If that is really the case, the engine will get damaged on the inside, leading to a situation that requires an engine rebuild.

Oil pressure issues can be due to (amongst others):
- a worn oil pump
- low oil level
- wrong viscosity
- a loose oil injector that sprays oil to the underside of the cylinder for cooling
- a blocked oil pump sieve

The latter is happening with VAG engines. Long life services, over due long life services, unfavourable driving conditions, use of wrong spec oil and last but not least, cutting edge engine design causes the oil to deteriorate to a state it should never be in: hard or snotty pieces. When they form, they will clog up the oil sieve and as a result the oil pump gets no oil and can't build up oil pressure. Oil pressure warnings therefore have to be taken seriously.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Found this company selling a sump gasket set :

http://www.precisionintl.com/Part.aspx?ID=22469&EID=188

not sure what they are selling as the engine compatibility list does not state the 2L TFSI BWA engine. Google says so though  
I'm waiting for their reply.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Supplier Endurotec
Supplier Code GSHC220E
Category Sump Gasket Sets
Stock Description 289302 WINDSOR OIL PAN SET ENDUROTEC

..... clicked the box below and it's Ford all over the place....


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

yeah that's why I sent them a message  same thing for other parts !!!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

A saab owner tried the endoscope way :

http://saabworld.net/f29/saab-9-5-oil-p ... ndex2.html


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Perhaps if you'd remove the oil sensor from the sump (it has its own gasket) you can move about such an endoscope even better?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

No warnings today. 
I'm getting a similar camera to test soon.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Let's hope it was just oil level related then... Is the fresh oil still clean?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I'm starting to think so too ! The oil is clean.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Looking forward to the results of the endoscope. Please pm me in case I forget to come back to this topic.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

sure. And let me know if you're looking for vcds cable 

The endoscope can also be used to check carbon buildup through the spark plug hole I guess.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I'd check for carbon through the inlet manifold temperature sensor opening (at the front of the engine) or the PCV pipe opening.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

The warning came back this morning after about 30 mn of driving but this time I triggered it :twisted: 
I was driving at about 40-50 km/h and then I pushed the accelerator hard for a second and released it. The warning showed up, flashed for about 4 seconds and went away. So either the switch cannot cope with the pressure change or something is wrong with the oil pump or the oil pickup pipe !!!! 
next step : find out how to replace the switch by myself or get it replaced by Audi.
if I still get the error after replacing the switch (now that I know how to reproduce the error) I'll tear open the engine :twisted:


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Still sure it's not the wiring that triggers it, because the engine is moving in its mounts under pressure?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

you mean the wiring of the switch? 
The problem is i cannot get to it  and I don't see what I have to remove to get to it. No steps in Elsa


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Yeah I'm referring to the wires to the switch. If for what ever reason the wire to the sensor short cuts to earth, the light will go on. One German guy had such an experience because of some sort of animal chewing on the wires.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I'll get the engine cover off next time I check maybe I can get a better view at the top of the filter and get to the switch. The problem is the mouting rubber parts on the engine cover are all worn out now


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

The switch is located on the filter housing. I'm not sure it is accessible esaily. At least it is not visible.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Had a look yesterday under by bonnet. There is a huge gathering of hoses and wires, just in front of that sensor :twisted:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

yeah no way of getting to it I think. I wonder why they did it that way. 
The fact of it's being on the filter got me thinking maybe I installed the filter incorectly or the issue is in the filter housing and the switch gets some sludge/oil from the filter housing when I apply hard and release the pedal. I don't remember tightening the filter so tight I couldn't get off last time I tried. I even broke the adaptor I used. I'll try removing the filter and if possible the switch when I get back from holidays


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

interesting but I don't have the time nor the courage to do it 

http://www.ehow.com/how_7181198_unstop- ... n-off.html

Oil pump pickup tubes are not easy to replace. The oil pan must be removed, and a new oil pump and pickup tube installed. Chances are very good that if the oil pressure has dropped due to a clogged pickup tube screen, the pump is damaged and should be replaced along with new crankshaft bearings as well. There is a procedure, though, that may help if the damage is not too severe

Instructions

1. Drain the engine oil into a drain pan and remove the oil filter. Replace the drain plug and pour 1 *gallon of Berryman B-12 Chemtool* or a similar product into the engine oil fill. Do not crank the engine. Let the product sit in the oil pan for 2 days before draining.

2 Drain the solvent out of the oil pan. Replace the drain plug and fill the oil pan with solvent once again. Allow it to sit for 2 additional days and drain the product. Inspect it as it flows out of the oil pan. If it is a dark sludge, the process will need to be repeated. Rub the discharge between two fingers and feel for carbon grit. If there is grit present, it will clog the screen. Repeat the process until there is no sludge or carbon grit in the discharge.

3. Drain the flush agent one more time making sure it is free of sludge and carbon. Remove the oil fill cap and let the engine sit overnight with no drain plug or oil cap installed. This will allow the engine to air out.

4. Install the oil drain plug, a new oil filter and add engine oil. Disconnect the engine computer fuse, or disable the engine so that it will not start. Crank the engine for 15 to 20 second intervals several times, allowing the starter to cool between each crank. This will prime the oil pump so the engine will not have a dry start.

5. Start the engine and pay close attention to the oil pressure. Listen carefully and make sure there are no engine knocks or rattles. If there is noise, the engine requires further repair.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Did you notice the switch is near the PCV !!! there is probably some sludge in there (filter housing) instead of the oil pickup pipe !!!








[/quote]


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I suspect that pipe is just for allowing blow by gasses to move up to the top of the engine. There it has to loose it's oil mist (oil separator or catch can) and eventually the gases end up in either the intake (idle) or in the inlet of the turbo (when intake pressure > blow by gasses pressure)

On the e-how stuff.... I'd never put solvents through the oil filler cap. Through the dipstick it enters straight into the sump.

But will it solve the gunk? Or can it only be done mechanically? In that case it's endoscope through the plug opening and carefully scratch the gunk off with a bicycle spoke through the oil sensor opening. And then flush the whole lot.

Chemical solutions are a bit dangerous if you'd ask me. If all is solved fine. But if some is left and it breaks loose, the sieve will be blocked in no-time.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

still trying to get to the pressure switch. I will remove the filter housing to see if I can get to it. I'll have to empty the filter and add oil of course.
By the way I found this. Looks like a good idea but not sure alluminum on platic threads is a good idea !!!
If you add a drain valve instead of the ecstuning drain plug on that too then you can do the oil change in 15 mn max with no oil mess 










http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKII-F ... ES2210310/


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I don't see the added value, really. For doing a proper oil change the filter needs to come off. I wouldn't be happy unscrewing an aluuuuminum filterhousing from the engine. Drop the thing and it may not fit any more. And what about the threads? Plastic is fine. And for draining the filter isn't it enough to push the valve with a screwdriver?

Noticed he fill it up with 5W40? Can't be 504/507 spec oil :?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I also doubt the aluminum thing !!
back to oil  probably better a 5W40 if you do changes at 10.000 km !!!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> And what about the threads? Plastic is fine. And for draining the filter isn't it enough to push the valve with a screwdriver?


for draining the filter I use this tool. very easy. pushing the valve up is going to end up in a mess  
the oem tool is between 50$ and 90$. you can get one from here for 17$ 

http://www.mobilfaction.com/T40057.html


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Looks like a good tool. Shame Audi didn't put some service openings in the undercover for allowing easy access to the plug and the filter. Taking the whole under tray off is no fun on the drive way.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Funny you mention it I was thinking about customizing the undertray to have openings right under the filter and the the drain plug


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Another pro catch can : http://www.condensator.com/


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

2 warnings this morning at low rpm. 5 mnitues interval. warning disapears after 5 seconds.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

To be honest: I'd be freaking out by now had it been my car. I wouldn't take the risks you're taking. Checking the sieve would be higher on my to-do list than going to the loo...


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Totally agree. I'll drive it home tonight and have it checked in three weeks when I get back from holidays. If it does not sieze on the way back home tonight


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

have a nice holiday.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Merci :wink:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Going on with the diagnic here: 
40 minutes of driving in town.
Oil temp is aroud 94 
Oil level is between 60 and 67
Coolant temp is 90

So i I had an oil pump or oil pressure issue this means oil is not going through the engine. If oil was blocked or oil pump was going crazy oil temp would lower (oil not moving around) engine temp would higher too due to metal scraping :mrgreen:


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Well it's not that you don't have any pressure at all, but it may be too low every now and then. That will kill the turbo first and later on the bearings of the crankshaft. 
The oil cooler may also be warming up the oil as long as the coolant is warmer than the oil, but I'm not sure. Asked a mechanic this morning about blocked oil sieves. He never saw it happen. I trust him. But it isn't said it's not happening. Perhaps these issues are fixed by the 'local Indie' rather than the official dealer. Just like there is a total mismatch between the number of window regulators sold by the parts department and the number of work orders for replacing them. If the work orders don't exist, the problem doesn't exist.... :roll:


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Borrowed from the mk5 Golf GTI forum:

http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index ... 442.0.html

Worth reading.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, I can't believe this post has been going for 6 weeks with-out getting some one to check the actual oil pressure. :roll: :? 
Get the oil pressure checked,before engine is ruined, if it isn't already.
Hoggy.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Hi Hoggy, this only means that the error is not real  no, seriously the engine is running fine. I haven't had time to replace the oil pressure sender since I came back from holidays. I'm beginning to think the error is related more to a defective oil level sensor than an oil pressure sender. I hit a bump and probably scraped the oil level switch which is right on the bottom of the oil pan. I'll replace the pressure switch first (I have it already). if the error comes back I'll replace the oil level sensor. if it comes back I'll open the oil pan and check it out. I think it's more related to the oil level sensor because it sometimes happens when I accelerate for a 100 meters and brake hard. It also happens when going fast (not so fast) round a roundabout. looks like the oil level sensor is disturbed by the the sudden oil position change .... just guessing. 
According to elsa you cannot check the oil pressure. you can only check the oil pressure sender by removing it and connecting it to the Audi pressure check kit.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Hadaak, Oil level sensor error will not bring low oil pressure alarm..
Hoggy.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

The problem is the oil pressure sender is difficult to get to. I hope I won't have to remove all the front of the car to get to it. I guess I will only need to remove the oil filter housing, like when doing an oil change, and get to the sender. I got the pressure switch for less than 20€ from VW. I would also like to install an oil pressure gauge but I'll have to get to the damn switch first. will doit next weekend. Meanwhile the car runs fine and the error dissapears after a few seconds.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Hadaak, Hope you get it sorted, it's just I would even run my TT if I was getting an intermittent oil pressure alarm, without getting the actual oil pressure checked. 
Hoggy.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I tried to get to the pressure switch. I removed the underneath engine cover, remove the oil filter housing but no way to get to the switch. I put everything back and added the amount of oil I removed from the filter. things seems ok but I can still reproduse the error by accelerating hard and braking hard. Looks like the switch cannot manage the sudden change in pressure !!! 
I rang three Audi dealers and no one can take the car before septembre :x


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

So I need a step by step on how to replace this damn switch. There is nothing in elsa about this. My Elsa is a 2009 version. Anybody with a newer version to check how to replace the oil pressure switch please?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Was doing 160 km/h on the highway when error came on, engine smoked like hell, AUdi quoted 10.000€ to repair. I managed to make them pay 90% of the repair costs  
Just kidding !!!!

Seriously, the culprit was the PCV valve !!! Yeaaah that sucker I wanted to remove and replace with the Provent catch can a long time ago !!!
I found this out after extensive research and on-baord (car rolling) VCDS diagnosing on my CarPC :mrgreen: Error always came on when I release the throttle either after hard acceleration or sometimes normal driving, coming to a stop ...
I should have suspected the PCV when cold start hesitation started happening (see my post about it here: ). Now when I replaced the PCV the engine starts great and runs fine... 
I got the N upgraded version form VW even if I ordered the L version which was on the TT (2009 model).
The N version looks more robust and is made by Mann-Hummel. 
I have been running it now for a week and trying to reproduce the errors and sign of it so far  I did try all situations when it would pop up for sure and it never showed up  
This thing should be monitored ore replaced on say 40k or 50k mileage.

TT is now 78.000.
Next on the list is the DV.

The old PCV L version:










the N version :


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

changed the DV too yesterday. 
ETKA says I have version G but I found version D on the TT (2009). 
The DV looked good. The piston is a bit hard to push. I changed it anyway for preventive maintenance.
By the way there is no way the DV can be changed without going under the car !!! at least on my Engine 'BWA'.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> Borrowed from the mk5 Golf GTI forum:
> 
> http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index ... 442.0.html
> 
> Worth reading.


just seen this post  Glad I didn't see it before fixing the issue could I would have stopped searching and would have gone for this. I even called 3 audi dealers and one independent garage but with the holidays no one wanted to take the TT. Glad to have sorted it myself though for a 100€ 

And I just received the endoscope so will be playing with it to check carbon buildup issues and oil pickup pipe on next oil change.


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## Gussy (Nov 21, 2014)

I think I have this problem am going to try your solution


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

It's really a cheap solution even if it does not work for you. you can reproduce the issue by accelerating hard (not too hard though  you risk breaking your engine) and braking hard. If it is a pressure issue you will have the Switch Off Engine warning. good luck.


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## Cheffke (Jul 18, 2018)

Hi,

old topic, but I recognize a lot. Besides a TT Mk2 I drive a Golf Mk5 GTI. Golf has same engine as TT. 
I experience the same kind of problems with low Oil pressure error. 
I have gone through this whole topic. What I don't get/understand in what kind of way is de PCV affecting the oil pressure?

At least I will give it a try and order tomorrow a new PCV at the dealer.

Thanks for answering!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

If I recall from what I researched at the time a failing pcv, blocked in my case, will not let air pressure out of the engine and results in the oil pump working harder to keep the required oil pressure. If this does not work as expected the low oil pressure is triggered. I might be wrong tough. you will need to google how the the pcv works.
But low oil pressure might be caused by other things like no maintenance, bad oil, clogged oil filter, bad oil pump.
In my case it always occurred when I decelerate. You can try it. Wait for the engine to warm up, hit the accelerator pedal for a 300 meters then apply the brakes.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Gussy said:


> I think I have this problem am going to try your solution


Any updates?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> If I recall from what I researched at the time a failing pcv, blocked in my case, will not let air pressure out of the engine and results in the oil pump working harder to keep the required oil pressure. If this does not work as expected the low oil pressure is triggered. I might be wrong tough. you will need to google how the the pcv works.
> But low oil pressure might be caused by other things like no maintenance, bad oil, clogged oil filter, bad oil pump.
> In my case it always occurred when I decelerate. You can try it. Wait for the engine to warm up, hit the accelerator pedal for a 300 meters then apply the brakes.


Wow..... apply the brakes indeed!
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Ventilation hadn't got anything to do with the pressure sensor that measures the oil pressure as it is generated by the oil pump.

Every engine suffers from blow by gasses, gas that escapes from the combustion chamber via the piston rings. These gases need to go back into the combustion chamber. There are 2 options: from the crankcase into the inlet manifold or from the crankcase into the turbo inlet. Depending on the pressure in the inlet manifold, the PCV valve decides which route to take.

At idle, there is under pressure in the inlet manifold, so the gases go there. As the turbo builds up pressure, the under pressure is only still available at the turbo inlet, so gases go there.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Yes. Changing the pcv fixed my issue a long time ago. No freaking stop engine when I'm driving and coming to a stop. Bad pcv does have some play in this. The issue absolutely disapeared after the pcv replacement. I haven't gone any further in my research but at the time I kind of understood it had something to do with not letting the correct oil presssure build up.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)




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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

reminds me to check mine and probably replace it as preventive maintenance as I've done a few hundred km (getting closer to 70.000) since then 
the error started at 75.000km.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I will open up the diaphragm and inspect it. The Dorman diaphragm apparently works for engine (2009 bwa) if you don't want to open things up: 
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-54696- ... origin=YMM
Dorman kit is more expensive if you're non in the states. Better stick to oem.

OEM current version for the bwa is 06F129101R (L version was dropped in 2011 according to etka). I bought mine from vw at the time. Version was N.
Price is 48€ for the pcv and 23 for the gasket/seal (06F103483E). I don't think the gasket needs replacing as I found it was still in good shape when I removed it.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Use the starter to buildup oil pressure before starting the engine. Next oil & filter change try turning the engine by hand to count how many revolution it takes just to fill up the oil filter. To make it easier to turn the engine remove the spark plug.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I'm not seeing my last post. I'm replacing the pcv on my Toureg too. This time i'm having another issue. Here an explanation of why the pcv might cause low oil pressure. For me it's either low oil pressure or valve cover and spark plug seals if too much pressure builds up in the crankcase due to to a failing pvc.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Gussy said:


> I think I have this problem am going to try your solution


Any updates please?
Did you replace the pcv?
Did it fix the issue?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Additional info on how it works:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cv103.htm


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Pics of my old pcv.























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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