# Creaking in the back...!!



## V6TT

I get quite a bad creaking noise coming from (I think) behind the rear seats. It sounds like plastic on plastic but I am not sure.

I have put the seats down and removed the parcel shelf and it still does it.

It does it going over bumps in the road.

Anyone had this problem or got any ideas?

I did think it was the plastic surround to the central brake light but I am not so sure. I really need to get in the back and get the wife to drive but I am not exactly small and there is not really much room!!!


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## garvin

Try adjusting the 'stops' on either side of the boot lid. My boot lid creaked/groaned but adjusting these out has cured it completely.

To adjust you need an allen key - fit it up the centre of each rubber stop and unscrew. When loose you have to manually pull out the 'stop' by however many 'ribs' required then re-tighten the allen screw up the centre. You may find it easier to remove the rubber 'end' on each 'stop' to unscrew/screw up the allen screw but it was not strictly necessary on mine as the rubber ends have a hole through the middle of them.


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## John-H

It's not the parcell shelf is it? Try bending it by hand. Mine creaks like 10 spooky doors on Scooby Doo opening at once!

:idea: I was going to try squirting some Halfords silicone rubber and plastic lubricant into the join around the edge but it might get a bit messy so some care will be required. Anyone got a better method?


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## V6TT

John-H said:


> It's not the parcell shelf is it? Try bending it by hand. Mine creaks like 10 spooky doors on Scooby Doo opening at once!
> 
> I'm pretty sure I still got the creaking when the parcel shelf was removed but it may not have been as bad.


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## Suzaroo

John-H said:


> Mine creaks like 10 spooky doors on Scooby Doo opening at once!


 Nice discription 

I too have this problem coming from the N/S rear.. ive been told it might be a dry bush.

Ive heard of one in the outback in australia - but never one on a car


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## V6 TT

garvin said:


> Try adjusting the 'stops' on either side of the boot lid. My boot lid creaked/groaned but adjusting these out has cured it completely.


...it will definitely be this. (Why am I answering myself? :? )


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## garvin

V6 TT said:


> garvin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try adjusting the 'stops' on either side of the boot lid. My boot lid creaked/groaned but adjusting these out has cured it completely.
> 
> 
> 
> ...it will definitely be this. (Why am I answering myself? :? )
Click to expand...

As a quick test cut a couple of circular rubber pads (from an old mouse mat or similar) to fit in the recesses that the 'stops' lower into to take up any slack. If the creaking stops then it's definitely the 'stops' that need adjusting.


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## V6TT

garvin said:


> V6 TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> garvin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try adjusting the 'stops' on either side of the boot lid. My boot lid creaked/groaned but adjusting these out has cured it completely.
> 
> 
> 
> ...it will definitely be this. (Why am I answering myself? :? )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As a quick test cut a couple of circular rubber pads (from an old mouse mat or similar) to fit in the recesses that the 'stops' lower into to take up any slack. If the creaking stops then it's definitely the 'stops' that need adjusting.
Click to expand...

good idea - will give that a go


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## tdk

garvin said:


> As a quick test cut a couple of circular rubber pads (from an old mouse mat or similar) to fit in the recesses that the 'stops' lower into to take up any slack. If the creaking stops then it's definitely the 'stops' that need adjusting.


Why bother?! It's probably quicker to just adjust the boot lid stops down - all you need is an allen key and about 2 minutes spare time!

Simon.


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## V6TT

To be clear, - the creaking is because the stops do not take up all of the slack hence there is vibrations hence I need to extend the stops outwards?


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## tdk

V6TT said:


> To be clear, - the creaking is because the stops do not take up all of the slack hence there is vibrations hence I need to extend the stops outwards?


Correct!


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## V6TT

cheers...!

will report back on success... or not!


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## V6TT

yep - that seemed to do the trick. Thanks!


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## V6 TT

V6TT said:


> yep - that seemed to do the trick. Thanks!


...told ya! You may need to adjust slightly again in a couple of weeks as the rubber bung get's use to it's new compression. Never had to touch mine again after this.

Dean


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## Guest

V6TT said:


> I get quite a bad creaking noise coming from (I think) behind the rear seats. It sounds like plastic on plastic but I am not sure.
> 
> I have put the seats down and removed the parcel shelf and it still does it.
> 
> It does it going over bumps in the road.
> 
> Anyone had this problem or got any ideas?
> 
> I did think it was the plastic surround to the central brake light but I am not so sure. I really need to get in the back and get the wife to drive but I am not exactly small and there is not really much room!!!


It's probably Uncle Albert fast asleep after his nightcap....


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## jameshamilton

> Mine creaks like 10 spooky doors on Scooby Doo opening at once!


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## John-H

Just to follow up my own post regarding the parcel shelf:

I was going to try the silicone oil but the creaks are not only from around the edge but well inside too - and silicone oil is messy and spreads and you don't want it on the nice matte finish or the cloth. :roll:

I was trying to avoid taking it apart but it turns out not to be too dificult. Just use a couple of thin smooth edged dinner knives. Starting from one of the mountings, gently prise up the edge of the top half moulding to release the internal clip edge and work your way along until the whole thing comes apart.

The cloth is held to the lower half with an elastic cord strung around hollow posts on the lower moulding. The creak comes from where the two moulding halves make contact - so you're talking the edge where you prised it apart, the hollow pillars and many other features. The best fix seems to be to get some silicone rubber bathroom sealant (clear or colour matched black) and cover all contact areas with generous beads of sealant. Be careful NOT to get it on the visible areas of cloth or the edge of the upper moulding that touches the cloth. I used nearly half a standard cartridge as you can see (click to enlarge).










































When you clip it back together some will ooze out from the outer edge gap but not the inner where the cloth is because you avoided that didn't you? Clean off any excess with Isopropyl Alcohol or similar de-greasant to restore the matte finish.

Job done - no creaks. 

ADDENDUM:
It's important to be gentle when prizing the two halves apart - don't force it so much that you start to permanently deform the edge of the plastic - you don't need to use that much force and the force should not be applied to the sharp plastic edges at the gap.

The top half of the shelf wraps around the bottom half with an internal clip ledge feature. Thin smooth flexible type dinner knife blades can be slipped into the gap and worked up and under the top half - prize it slightly away but don't use too much force. Leave one knife in place as a wedge and get another knife in and work it along the edge and away from the first. It's a bit like taking a bicycle tyre off a rim with tyre levers! Eventually you'll separate enough and the whole thing falls apart.

I was eventually quite generous with the sealant. The first time I applied it, I only put it on the clip feature near the gap but it still creaked inside so I had to take it apart again and then cover all surfaces that looked likely to touch - as you can see in the pictures.

Get any sealant off the matte surfaces quickly before it sets. IPA and kitchen towel clean it off really well once it's back together and restore that nice matte finish.

Now the shelf is dead quiet when you flex it  - not spookey at all :wink: .


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## Patrick Graystone

Im having the same problem with my TTR!!!! which doesnt have a parcel 
shelf...its doing my nut in...mine seems to come from just behind my right shoulder!!! ive tried my door and the roof but there solid!! 
please help....


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## pvmltd

Suzaroo,

I guess experiencing a dry bush in Australia is not uncommon!!


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## Naresh

Hi John, I just opened up my newly-replaced-under-warranty shelf (started creaking again!!), and going to use your method applying sealent. Did you have 100% success with this mod and did you suffer any more noise from the shelf?

I guess once the sealent has hardened I won't be able to prise the shelf apart again (incase I don't apply enough sealant)? Are there any other alternatives to Isopropyl Alcohol - haven't got a clue where to get that from! :?

I'm going to try this mod first and then tighten up the rear seat strikers and adjust the boot strikers.


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## John-H

Hi Naresh,

If you have a Maplin store near you get some of this (IPA):
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... pa&doy=6m2

Failing that, you might find surgical spirit might work but I'm not sure and it might smell :roll: IPA smells nice (IMO [smiley=dizzy2.gif] ) and completely evaporates.

Just look carefully at all the possible plastic to plastic touching areas within. I went for the blitz approach. You should know if it's worked, well before it sets, as flexing the freshly reassembled shelf will be creak free straight away, as you'll have lubricated those touching points with sealant. When it hardens it just stabilises the fix. It's messy to take apart again so don't skimp on the sealant.

Mine is still quiet 

The only slight disadvantage is that the shelf gets slightly heavier by the weight of the sealant - but it's only slight.

Use the genuine "high modulus" Silicone bathroom sealant (clear) and not the outdoor frame sealant (Acrylic type - not clear). You could get it for under Â£4 from Wikes DIY store the last time I looked.


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## Naresh

Thanks John, I'll probably pop into B&Q tonight to get some clear sealant. Do you think nail polish remover is a suitable alternative to IPA? My wife has plenty of that lying around and also smells good........although that constitutes solvent abuse!! [smiley=wings.gif]

I was surprised at how quickly the shelf could be prised apart and also how quick it started to creak after being replaced last month! Why do Audi persist in making such a bad shelf!  Common sense would tell you that a solid shelf would be tons better!!


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## John-H

Woa  ! Nail varnish remover might melt the plastic! Try and get the IPA if you can.


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## Naresh

Thanks John - I'll try the varish remover on an inconspicuous area area first to see if it damages the plastic otherwise try some decorators wipes from B&Q because I can't get to a Maplins until the weekend. Did your shelf "snap" back together into the poppets between the 2 pieces or are they just "stuck" together with the sealant?

I'll post back after my attempt and resulting test-drive!


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## John-H

It mainly seems to hold together by the inside edges of the top piece engaging in grooves on the side walls of the bottom piece - like the way a buscuit tin lid holds on.


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## ragpot

while we are talking about annoying irritating squeeks has anyone noticed that their passanger seat, when empty, vibrates hard at certain speeds and makes the headrest squeel !

Fix: Must take the wife out more...

Alternative : Does anyone know if the seat can be tightened up ?


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## genocidalduck

Also try taking out your warning triangle.....I was getting a nise from the rear thought it was the boot lid...Turned out to be the triangle case.


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## dommorton

Thanks for the tips on pulling the shelf apart John 

My brand new shelf has started up again so I went about tearing the bloody annoying thing to bits.

I took a slightly different approach in lubing the clips with Vaseline :lol:

There are two main areas causing the creaks. One is right round the outside edge where the clips are so I gave this a good dosing. The other is the little pegs that locate into recesses on the other half securing the fabric.

I noticed many of the recesses had a type of glue in them which was like hard black plastic. Once this was picked out of each and the recesses lubed up no more creaks 

Will have to see how it lasts :roll:

The mess wiped off with a bit of fairy liquid leaving the nice matt finish


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## John-H

Lubrication - that's an alternative approach. I did think of silicone oil to start with but I know that creeps and didn't want it to get onto the nice matte finish. Vaselene might stay put. Keep us posted :wink:


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## SpeadyReady

Hi
I'd just like to add my thanks for this so simple fix.  
Having had my TT for a couple off months the rear parcel shelf creaks where doing my head in.
Followed the instructions here. [smiley=book2.gif] 
Spliting the shelf and applying the mastic took no time at all, some warm water is all you need to wipe away the excess mastic once its been put back together.
I left the shelf inside for a couple off days to fully cure and now I have a quite car.  
Great result, and for once it did'nt cost any thing.


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## dommorton

I'm a plank 

My shelf is perfectly quiet but I still have the bloody annoying rattle I had before :x

Unclipped the back seat and pushed it forward. Noise stopped 

Seems the rattle/creak I'm getting is from the seat rubbing against the other trim around it? :? it clips down nicely with no play at all so I guess adjusting the pin is pointless?

Any ideas?


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## John-H

Try wrapping a little tape arount the pin to widen and cushion it. At least your shelf is alright for the future!


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## dommorton

Will try it John but as said it's tight on the pin so not too confident it'll sort it :?


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## John-H

I suppose if the seat isn't moving of it's own accord, it's going where the pin takes it, as there will be some flexing of the bodywork. Which trim do you mean - is it at the sides? The seat does touch the shelf - have you tried removing the shelf and clipping the seats back to see if it still happens? Some of the trim on the boot-lid can creak too where the shelf clips in.


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## dommorton

Found the little bugger!

The trim round the rear window on the tailgate was creaking against the seat. The leather was squashed tight against it causing the noise :x

Stuck a bit of sticky foam on it for now and it's quiet 8)


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## John-H

Well done that man  !


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## r2sma

Hi guys, 
Sorry for sounding a little simple, but, what part of the parcel shelf are you talking about when you talk about adjusting the 'Stops'? 
Also, Ive taken this shelf out to try and see where the 'Allen' key might fit to adjust as per the previous post, but im unable to find anything that resembles an Allen key fitment/ingress.
If anyone has any photos of this part, or can describe it a little easier for us, un-educated mortals, i would be really grateful!
Thx.


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## John-H

The adjustable stops are on the tailgate and cause the tailgate to rest at a certain height with a certain rubber seal compression. The keys will fit into there. So that's not part of the shelf :wink: .


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## SLO3

Fairy liquid and water is good for removing sealant - when its still wet.


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## T3RBO

Random bump... last reply was two years ago :lol: :lol:


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## colingo

Need to do this to mine but run out of time today.


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## SteveMaybury

Just a quick bumpety-bump for this thread...

I was being driven to the point of insanity by a creaking from the rear of my car. I did the parcel shelf/silicon fix last summer, and that improved things, but for the past few months it's been getting worse again - still there when the shelf was removed, so I knew it wasn't that. The only thing that made it go away was when my boot was rammed full whilst visiting the rellies at Xmas.

Anyway... I found this thread last night and adjusting the boot stops this morning has made a huge difference - vast improvement.

*However: there's still a bit of a knock, coming from the pins into which the parcel shelf attaches. I'm currently trying to find a solution that stops the parcel shelf from moving at all. I've currently got two old gloves rammed in the gap on each side, but this looks daft.

Any ideas? I need some something like sturdy black foam wedges to stick in there, but no such thing seems to exist.*


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## John-H

It seems appropriate that an old thread, creaking at the seams along with the parcel shelf it is about is still going strong. The trim around the boot lid can also creak.


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## merlin c

garvin said:


> Try adjusting the 'stops' on either side of the boot lid. My boot lid creaked/groaned but adjusting these out has cured it completely.
> 
> To adjust you need an allen key - fit it up the centre of each rubber stop and unscrew. When loose you have to manually pull out the 'stop' by however many 'ribs' required then re-tighten the allen screw up the centre. You may find it easier to remove the rubber 'end' on each 'stop' to unscrew/screw up the allen screw but it was not strictly necessary on mine as the rubber ends have a hole through the middle of them.


Already siliconed my parcel shelf and that got rid of 80% of the creaking, extended the boot rubber stops and that took care of the other 20%. Great advice, thanks a million......Steve [smiley=idea.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Flash

There was a thread about this a few months ago.Do the silicon jobbie but also the trim around the rear window/tailgate sometimes benefits from being taken off and re-seating according to the manual a two man job?.If I remember aright,I still have to do mine it creaks a lot without the parcel shelf in place.


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## jhoneyman

Just tried this how too... I reckon I have got rid of 80% of the parcel Creak from the parcel shelf itself.
I was thinking... Rather than fully compress the two together, perhaps leave a gap (same distance all the way round) so that the silicone acts as a 'buffer' rather than let it ooze out the sides.

Still I great how too for only £6 (Silicone)

Oh and I used a full tube


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## Garth

Best solution is to make a solid parcel shelf, like I did  
No creaking at all from my shelf... You can actually put stuff on it too :grin:


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## FinTTq

I had lots of creaking in the back and found the hook or whatever the boot lid attaches to was loose. This resulted in the boot lid costantly vibrating as I was driving. I just tightened the two bolts after removing the plastic on top of the boot lock. No more rattles in the back after that as the boot is firmly locked.


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## tommatt90

Just wanna bump this as its been a couple years and to say thanks to John for the guide.

Managed to get an excellent condition parcel shelf (been looking for a while) but guess what? It creaked!!

Just took it apart (nice job to do imo) and siliconed it..

Just waiting for it to dry so only time will tell


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## John-H

I hope it's quiet for you


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## tommatt90

Haven't refitted as of yet, a lot quieter when pressing it. Still creaks a bit lol. Hopefully will be ok in the car!


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## LongsanTT

John-H said:


> Just to follow up my own post regarding the parcel shelf:
> 
> I was going to try the silicone oil but the creaks are not only from around the edge but well inside too - and silicone oil is messy and spreads and you don't want it on the nice matte finish or the cloth. :roll:
> 
> I was trying to avoid taking it apart but it turns out not to be too dificult. Just use a couple of thin smooth edged dinner knives. Starting from one of the mountings, gently prise up the edge of the top half moulding to release the internal clip edge and work your way along until the whole thing comes apart.
> 
> The cloth is held to the lower half with an elastic cord strung around hollow posts on the lower moulding. The creak comes from where the two moulding halves make contact - so you're talking the edge where you prised it apart, the hollow pillars and many other features. The best fix seems to be to get some silicone rubber bathroom sealant (clear or colour matched black) and cover all contact areas with generous beads of sealant. Be careful NOT to get it on the visible areas of cloth or the edge of the upper moulding that touches the cloth. I used nearly half a standard cartridge as you can see (click to enlarge).
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> When you clip it back together some will ooze out from the outer edge gap but not the inner where the cloth is because you avoided that didn't you? Clean off any excess with Isopropyl Alcohol or similar de-greasant to restore the matte finish.
> 
> Job done - no creaks.
> 
> ADDENDUM:
> It's important to be gentle when prizing the two halves apart - don't force it so much that you start to permanently deform the edge of the plastic - you don't need to use that much force and the force should not be applied to the sharp plastic edges at the gap.
> 
> The top half of the shelf wraps around the bottom half with an internal clip ledge feature. Thin smooth flexible type dinner knife blades can be slipped into the gap and worked up and under the top half - prize it slightly away but don't use too much force. Leave one knife in place as a wedge and get another knife in and work it along the edge and away from the first. It's a bit like taking a bicycle tyre off a rim with tyre levers! Eventually you'll separate enough and the whole thing falls apart.
> 
> I was eventually quite generous with the sealant. The first time I applied it, I only put it on the clip feature near the gap but it still creaked inside so I had to take it apart again and then cover all surfaces that looked likely to touch - as you can see in the pictures.
> 
> Get any sealant off the matte surfaces quickly before it sets. IPA and kitchen towel clean it off really well once it's back together and restore that nice matte finish.
> 
> Now the shelf is dead quiet when you flex it  - not spookey at all 😉 .
> 
> Brilliant innovative thinking John. Just done this fix put the shelf back in and thought i'd gone deaf!
> Before fix = creak and rattle, after fix =
> My refurb project is nearing the end and your how to's and posts on here have proved invaluable.
> Cheers
> Mick


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