# Electrical connections on top of battery



## bigbighair

Hello. A few months ago I took the TT to a local garage that came highly recommended, with some electrical issue - I've forgotten what the problem was now. Anyway, the guy let me down: he said "I couldn't find anything wrong with what you mentioned, but I did spot some burning around a fuse connection on top of the battery, so I've bypassed it and fitted an inline fuse." I wasn't happy, but the car carried on working and I didn't have time to think about it.

Anyway now I've decided to look at what he's done, and when I've peeled the tape off I've found a right mess. See the photo/ Threewires just blobbed together with solder, and then the other wires coming out of that mulitplug have breaks in the insulation. But I can't see any damage other than some screwdriver marks around the fuseholder that he's bypassed.

Please could someone confirm (send me a photo?) of what this is supposed to look like, so I can re-wire it properly? I can't understand what was supposed to be where the three wires blobbed together are. I'm guessing that the wire from the solder blob into the multiplug is just a dead-end, now that the bypass fuse is in, in which case I just need to make a new clean connection from the wiring loom end of the wire, into the fuseholder, sort the other chafed wires, and put the fuse back where it should be? 

Thanks,
Andy.


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## Hoggy

Hi, A fire risk if I ever saw it, that is absolutely terrible & should be reported.
If there is any burning/overheating which can be quite common, on that connection/fuse block replace it.
This is what it should look like & there should be a hinged cover to protect the fuses/links
As you can see there is some burning on this example.
Hoggy.


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## bigbighair

Hoggy said:


> Hi, A fire risk if I ever saw it, that is absolutely terrible & should be reported.
> If there is any burning/overheating which can be quite common, on that connection/fuse block replace it.
> This is what it should look like & there should be a hinged cover to protect the fuses/links
> As you can see there is some burning on this example.
> Hoggy.
> View attachment 495967


Thanks Hoggy - yeah it's worrying that people get paid to do shoddy work like this. Your photo doesn't show the wires going out from that multiplug behind the three fuses, so I can't see the bit I need to re-wire. But it's useful to have the labelling. I've realised from your labels why he messed with that fuse, it was because the cooling fans weren't running, but that fuse wasn't the reason. Cheers.


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## Hoggy

bigbighair said:


> Thanks Hoggy - yeah it's worrying that people get paid to do shoddy work like this. Your photo doesn't show the wires going out from that multiplug behind the three fuses, so I can't see the bit I need to re-wire. But it's useful to have the labelling. I've realised from your labels why he messed with that fuse, it was because the cooling fans weren't running, but that fuse wasn't the reason. Cheers.


Hi, That's the only Pic I have at present. I will Google for a better pic.
The cooling fan green fuses are well known for burning/melting due to poor connection.
Hoggy.


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## bigbighair

Hoggy said:


> Hi, That's the only Pic I have at present. I will Google for a better pic.
> The cooling fan green fuses are well known for burning/melting due to poor connection.
> Hoggy.


I found this image on the Forum but I still can't see what I'm looking at Car completely dead. Any ideas?


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## davebowk

The green fuse that is missing used to supply power to Number 3 on the plug. They have bypassed this and fed number 3 wire using the blade fuse.
The terminal the blade fuse is fed from was probably vacant before.
You need a new fuse block to replace yours with 3 green fuses and then remove the terminal with the blue collar and just have the thinner red on the left connected back to number 3 on the plug.


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## bigbighair

davebowk said:


> The green fuse that is missing used to supply power to Number 3 on the plug. They have bypassed this and fed number 3 wire using the blade fuse.
> The terminal the blade fuse is fed from was probably vacant before.
> You need a new fuse block to replace yours with 3 green fuses and then remove the terminal with the blue collar and just have the thinner red on the left connected back to number 3 on the plug.


So, comparing what you're saying with the image Hoggy posted, does that mean my car doesn't have the secondary AIR/pre-coolant heating circuit? It's a 225 Quattro. 

And also, is the bit of wire from the multiplug to the blob of solder a dead-end?

Thanks.


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## davebowk

If it's a BAM it doesnt have SAI so that terminal is free and the wire from the plug to the solder would have been fed from the green fuse. So as it is now you could cut that short piece and it would still work.
It's a rough job but if it's taped up good it will be ok untill the fuse block is replaced.


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## bigbighair

davebowk said:


> If it's a BAM it doesnt have SAI so that terminal is free and the wire from the plug to the solder would have been fed from the green fuse. So as it is now you could cut that short piece and it would still work.
> It's a rough job but if it's taped up good it will be ok untill the fuse block is replaced.


It's a BAM! Thanks so much. I can crack on now!


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## StuartDB

I expect he connected to 3 on the plug so you know why it is being bypassed and what it is for.- obviously the inline fuse is maybe something like 10 amp and the unused SAI pump fuse might be 20amp... not really that much of a mess, these blobs of solder are often more secure with different sized wires in those melt to fit tubes I use (also you don't want a heat gun heating up all the other stuff there) and screw down junction boxes are pony..


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