# Electric Window Problem, Please Help!!



## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Hi All,

Experiencing a problem with the drivers window on wifes MK1. Drivers window has stopped operating completely, cannot be moved up or down. When the electric window switch is pressed downwards I can hear clicking but no movement.

Stripped doors today as I suspected either broken window regulator or motor. Regulator is fine on inspection and suspected faulty motor works fine if connected at passenger side. I have also tested switches and the seem to be operating fine.

Interior light works as normal as does the "doors open display" so I am assuming that this rules out the door microswitch.

Does anybody have any ideas?? Fuse, Relay?? if so, any ideas where they can be found??

Many thanks!!


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

aled said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Experiencing a problem with the drivers window on wifes MK1. Drivers window has stopped operating completely, cannot be moved up or down. When the electric window switch is pressed downwards I can hear clicking but no movement.
> 
> ...


Try lowering the window using the key ,check that the motor is working at least


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, No fuses, but an overload circuit breaker S43 ( C ) on relay panel under dash, but if passenger window working I wouldn't think it would be that.
Hoggy.


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Cheers, Just wondering where the relay panel is, is it beneath dash on drivers side. I assume that I need to remove the lower dash behind pedals??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

aled said:


> Cheers, Just wondering where the relay panel is, is it beneath dash on drivers side. I assume that I need to remove the lower dash behind pedals??


Hi,Yes that's where it is, but unlikely to be that as paasenger side works. 
Can you connect passengerside switch on drivers side, to driver side motor, to prove the switch.
Hoggy.


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Arggghhhh!!!

Been on this all day, was sure that prob would have been motor or regulator!!

Tested with known working switch and still no joy. So far:
Motor tested and working
Switch tested and working
Regulator fine
Unplugged relay and swapped with identical relay (under steering wheel), driver side.
Scanned with Vag Com, No faults.

I'm slowly loosing the will to live!!

I've been reading about the possiblitity of water ingress into a convenience module, anybody have any ideas where said module is??

Also, my lights on buzzer works, my door open indicator works and my interior light works, does this definitely rule out door micro switch??

Cheers for all your help!!


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

Roadster or coupe?

There is a sensor that stops it closing if it suspects it is jammed, but that shouldn't stop it opening.

Sounds like a wiring fault to be honest, if you know the switch and motor work, can't be any power at the switch. From memory it's a complicated arrangement.


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Car is a Coupe.

Local indi has suggested a broken wire between body of car and door inside the rubber sheith.

Passenger window unlocks off key, but drivers side doesn't!!

Think that I'll bite the bullet and book it in!!


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, No fuses, but an overload circuit breaker S43 ( C ) on relay panel under dash, but if passenger window working I wouldn't think it would be that.
> Hoggy.


Hi Hoggy, you wouldn't happen to have a diagram of the relay in question would you. I pulled the one with 53 on it but I am now questioning whether this was the correct on as your post says "C". Many thanks.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Aled, self resetting overload S43 ( c ). not 53, as the passenger works I wouldn't think it's that.
Did you try swopping passenger switch drivers side, with the drivers side switch.
Here's a pic anyway, Click to enlarge. Ignore under dash left side, as Bentley published for left hand drive TTs








Hoggy.


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

That relay under the dash stops both Windows from working. Trust me on that one! Broken wire is the most likely, can be an arse to locate.


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Hi Guys!

I am currently going through the same torment trying to diagnose the same fault. I removed the motor and left it hanging by the wiring loom to see if the motor would run when I operated the switch (it didn't). I have probed a couple of terminals in the wiring plug and a couple show about 12 volts when the switch is operated, up and down, so assuming switch is okay.

How did you test your motor Aled? I'm thinking that my problem is the motor but at £200 from Audi, I want to be sure.

Anyone got access to the wring diagram for the electric window circuit please?

Did you get any further with yours Aled?


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Thanks to blz-8027 for your kind message. I can't respond via PM, I assume because I haven't submitted enough posts yet?

The door panel is re-fixed and the motor is on the bench at the moment but I will try to reconnect the motor later and test using the key.

Thanks again and if anyone does have a wiring diagram for this circuit.................?


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Okay. So I have reconnected the motor and tried to operate the window via the key, but to no avail. The Passenger side works fine.

I have refitted the motor to the spool (regulator assembly) after removing the armature casing. When I turn the armature by hand, the mechanism and the springs either side of the casing seems to 'wind up' but the window does not drop or raise.

If I remove the screws that hold the motor to the regulator assembly and ease the motor outwards, I can raise and lower the window with minimal resistance by rotating the whole motor assembly. By removing the large gear from the motor body, after removing the screws that hold the gold coloured plate, and reattaching it to the spool (so the small male gear engages with the female splined hole) and gripping the large gear with toothed oil filter pliers, I can get the window to operate fairly easily by hand.

Upon examination of this large, nylon gear, it does appear that there is a 'groove' worn into it in one spot by the metal screw attached to the motor shaft (although this would not stop the motor from operating without mechanical load).

So, I am now thinking that the integral electronic control unit that makes up part of the motor is at fault.

What do you all think?


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Hi. The way that I tested the motor was to remove the passenger side door card also, and swap the drivers side motor with the passenger side motor. Both motors operated correctly when installed in the passenger side, both motors failed to operate when fitted at the drivers side, thus proving that the motor worked fine.

Looks like we are both at the same stage then??

My local indi is going to take a look o Friday. He suggested a broken wire somewhere within the door, or between the door and the body of the car (hinge area).

I'll keep you posted on the outcome. If you could keep this thread updated if you have any joy that would be great!!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

One way to tell if all electrical items are working is to operate the switch and look to see if the courtesy light dims slightly, showing that full stall load current is flowing. This would happen if there is a jam. Compare it to the passenger side by attempting to drive the window up when it is already up. You should also hear a clicking from the door motor's internal relay coincident with switch operation and about a second later when the stall current time out kicks in - coincident with the courtesy light going slightly brighter again.

If you get clicking from the door motor but no light dimming then the motor relay terminals may be burnt out. It can be replaced or the terminals cleaned and adjusted.

If there is no clicking from the door motor at all then if not the switch it could be a broken wire in the hinge area conduit.


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## aled (Sep 17, 2011)

Think I've got to the bottom of this now. There is indeed a broken wire in the door hinge conduit. It is the thickest wire (red/green). Makes sense that it is the thickest wire as the motor clicks when switch is operated, just hasn't got enough juice to operate the motor.

Will report back when it's finally fixed!!


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

Good luck, if it's broken then you'll Fox something... Fingers crossed it's the window!


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Good luck with the wiring repair then Aled. Please let us know how it goes.

I plan to swop over the motor from the passenger side (for testing purposes) as I'm pretty sure the motor is at fault in my case.

Did anyone ever come up with the wiring diagram for this circuit?


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

Hartzpartz said:


> Good luck with the wiring repair then Aled. Please let us know how it goes.
> 
> I plan to swop over the motor from the passenger side (for testing purposes) as I'm pretty sure the motor is at fault in my case.
> 
> Did anyone ever come up with the wiring diagram for this circuit?


try this

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21814073/window.pdf


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

That's great! Many thanks blz-8027.


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Any luck with the wiring repair Aled? I appear to have the same fault as motor works fine on passenger's side but 'clicks' on driver's side.


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## Hartzpartz (Aug 12, 2014)

Fault with mine also turned out to be the heavy red/green wire that supplies a permanent 12v supply to the motor. I was slightly thrown off the trail as up until today, I had 12v to the motor wiring plug so assumed this was okay. It must have been hanging on by a single strand as when I tested it again today, this wire was no longer 'hot'.

I decided to remove the driver's side kick panel (& bonnet release handle) to see where this wire ran from. With this removed you can see a vertical row of wiring plugs. The red one carries the red/green wire, bottom left terminal.

I cut this wire at the connectors (motor and inside car) and ran a new length of cable through the door/body conduit. A bit fiddly but not too bad really with conduit unclipped at door and body. If you disconnect the wiring plug inside the car, you can work on this part of the loom safely as it will be disconnected from the feed. Both ends soldered and heat-shrinked and some extra heat shrink used where the wire passes through the door/body conduit.

New wire routed as per the existing loom and cable tied where appropriate. Tested and working fine although the motor is noisy now, possibly because the nylon gear is partially stripped.

Will still have to source a motor but at least it will work when fitted!

Thanks to everyone who has contributed with ideas and advice.


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