# Draining coolant on Audi TT Mk2 2011 TFSI 2.0 litre



## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

TT Forum Newbee
Posts: 4
Joined: 21 Nov 2020, 19:59
PostPosted: Yesterday, 18:41
Draining coolant on Audi TT Mk2 2011 TFSI 2.0 litre

I want to drain and flush my coolant system, but I need some advice on how to locate the correct hose and release the coolant at the lowest point. I've looked at loads of diagrams but my car doesn't seem to be the same as any I've seen - so frustrating! I tried this today but after trying (and failing) to remove a wide short hose beneath the radiator, in order to access the lower radiator hose, the best I could do was to bleed off some coolant from the thin hose at the top of the radiator, so disappointed

I would love there to be a drain plug but I cant see one. I've added some radiator flush to the system to try to flush my heater core, which has produced a bit more heat through the vents, and I've topped up the fluid I drained with De-ionised water and a little G12++ to try to keep the antifreeze level Ok, and run the engine on a short journey during which the engine temp was where it should be in the centre.

I just want an easy way to do a series of drains and flushes so I can get the system really clean and refill with a correct G12++ mix. Really need someone who can guide me - anyone?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you're looking for reference documentation, we have a list of workshop manuals you can download. Pretty sure your engine is included in the list -

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Hi SwissJetPilot - thanks for this. I've searched through these but cant work out which my engine is. Would be great to talk to someone with the same model, and someone who's carried out the coolant drain process and could guide me through the process. What I have learned is that it seems to be different for pretty much every car - I stupidly assumed that a MK2 was a MK2!


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Your car is same year and engine as mine (as long as it's not a TTS?). EA888 engine (TSI)


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Hi Flashy - thanks I'll check this out
Have you drained the coolant on your car?


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

And sorry, no mine is not the TTS
Engine ref attached


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

I've done a bit more reading and reccon my engine is the TSI Gen 2 - but don't see any reference anywhere to CESA (on the car ID)


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Just spoken to Audi and they tell me that my engine is the FSI - ref CESA
Does anyone have a link to the workshop manuals for this engine?
Many thanks


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Even more confused now. Looked at ECS Tuning ref attached and cross referenced with pics I've just taken with my phone, and my car appears to be a hybrid of the two TSI engines (one of them only manufactured after my car was made) whilst Audi tell me I have a FSI
Anyone know what's going on - this is really bugging me, no wonder I cant find any manuals for this!! 
I have Frakinstein's monster!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Tonipoloni *- Look on your vehicle tag, it will tell you exactly which engine you have.

Here on mine, you can see *BUB* for the 3.2 VR6.

You can follow this post to figure out what features came with your TT from the factory -

*FAQ - Factory Options, Body & Wheel Color Codes*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1879563


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks so much SwissJetPilot - really useful
But do you have, or can you direct me to, the workshop manuals for my engine CES CESA 2.0 ltr 2011 4-cylinder 155kw 211hp?

That's where I'm going with this - ideally?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No problem!  Go back to the previous link for the WSMs and look under Section 3 -

*3.7 Engine, 4-Cylinder Direct Petrol Injection, 1.8 ltr., 2.0 ltr.,4-Valve Turbo, Mechanics (A005TT02420)*
Engine CCT, CCZ, CDA, *CES*, CET - 1.8 ltr & 2.0 ltr, 4-Valve, Turbo - A005TT02420.pdf


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

FYI, you have a TFSI. The T stands for Turbo

TSI is what VW call their engines, TFSI is what Audi call them

The middle engine in your image seems to correlate with your engine correctly, both in layout and age


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

Thank you both, I think I'm there now, will have a close look at the drain procedure and diagrams and make sure they correlate to whats under my bonnet 
Only difference on the three diagrams is that mine has the re-designed airbox that was introduced in later models - every cloud?!
Your knowledge is really helpful


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

*Finally got around to tackling draining and replacing coolant!* Removed both lower hoses as Audi manual suggests, and expansion reservoir screw top, and the small hose at the top of the radiator, *but still only got 2-3 litres of liquid out.*

I believe the system holds around *9 litres* so wondering how I get the rest out?

*Also* thinking I could flush with water through a hose pipe but then would the water fully circulate through the engine/system? *And* even if I get all the coolant out how can I get the right concentration, *and* is it not better to dilute concentrate with de-ionised water, or does it not matter?

Main problem is not being able to get all/most of the coolant out of the system. If I can do that the rest is fairly simple. *Does it make a difference to the drain rate if the car is raised at the front on ramps?*

*Can anyone answer all the above - PLEASE??*


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Yeah there's no drains on these engines/rads I never understood that but seems like it's an Audi thing to not have coolant drains? They just tell you to pull off one of the lower radiator hoses, which you've done two of.



Tonipoloni said:


> *Finally got around to tackling draining and replacing coolant!* Removed both lower hoses as Audi manual suggests, and expansion reservoir screw top, and the small hose at the top of the radiator, *but still only got 2-3 litres of liquid out.*
> 
> I believe the system holds around *9 litres* so wondering how I get the rest out?


You did have the cap off the reservoir, right? To get more out you'd have to probably take off the stat housing/water pump which is a real pain and "requires" removing the intake manifold, which is why IMO it's a good idea to do this stuff "while you're in there" when you pull the intake manifold for a carbon cleaning.

I don't believe there are any removable block drains on these engines either; actually I'm not even sure there are any freeze plugs? Good luck if you get the mix wrong and it freezes in winter :roll:



Tonipoloni said:


> *Also* thinking I could flush with water through a hose pipe but then would the water fully circulate through the engine/system? *And* even if I get all the coolant out how can I get the right concentration, *and* is it not better to dilute concentrate with de-ionised water, or does it not matter?


No, you'd need the stat to be open or out for the water to get around the entire engine. The alternative is you can run the engine to operating temperature with water in it and drain it again to get more of the stuff out.

And yeah you'd want to use distilled or DI water to mix with the coolant. So the idea of using a garden hose to flush out is an idea but then you're introducing a lot of minerals into the system you probably won't get out unless you were removing the mentioned thermostat and all the hoses, etc. and making sure they were clean. In the end it's not really worth it to do all that.

To get the correct mix afterwards you'd also have to use a refractometer to check the concentration to be sure it's good, if you did either water flush method--when refilling it's a good idea to use more coolant than water in this case since you know you've diluted the overall content at this point.



Tonipoloni said:


> Main problem is not being able to get all/most of the coolant out of the system. If I can do that the rest is fairly simple. *Does it make a difference to the drain rate if the car is raised at the front on ramps?*


Tilting the engine this way or that will certainly cause more fluid to drain out, but the practicality of being able to do that, is another story. Removing various hoses and piping will probably get more to drain out both from that hose/connection as well as from the hoses you've removed since it will allow air in.



Tonipoloni said:


> *Can anyone answer all the above - PLEASE??*


I'd try not to overthink it. Drain what you can and refill it with a 50/50 mix and move on with life. The next time you're in there for a carbon cleaning you may as well do it again as you'll have easy access to the tstat/water pump and be able to remove them (might as well replace them too since it's a common failure point) and get more coolant out.


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

*Thanks for all that advice and info* - yes relieved the pressure with exp tank top off - also removed the small overflow hose at the top of the rad etc etc, so as you say without taking the car to bits, probably the best I can do.
I've flushed with de-ionised water rather than tap water to keep it pure, and about to drain all that off now. My theory is to then premix 60/40 de-ionised water/concentrate and fill, run the engine and keep topping up until the level correct.
Then be guided by the colour as much as anything. After the last flush it's almost running clear, so I recon once it's fully mixed and the right shade of pink it'll be about right.
I bought a cheap tester but I'm not sure if it's accurate. Do you have a recommendation for one that would be reliable?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This post may be helpful -

*2.0 TFSI Coolant Flush*
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/2-0tfs ... h.7095456/

So since my TTS came from down south, and it was tracked (coolant mostly water), it's cooling system wasn't set up to handle MN (Minnesota) winters where it can get to -15F° pretty easily. Thankfully I found this out before it got too cold and avoided some serious damage.

First off I was able to get my hands on the Elsawin v3.91 to help me out with my car. Helped quite a bit to show where everything was located. I also picked up the ECS Tuning Schwaben cooling evacuation tool kit too. The tool also helped out quite a bit with avoiding air pockets in the system and was 1/4 of the cost of the VAG 6096 tool, which is pictured below.

*Note:* The coolant refill air purge tool requires access to a standard air compressor with a minimum rating of 90 PSI (6.2 bar). There are similar kits on the market that are somewhat less expensive than the Schwaben.

So that said it was all pretty straight forward and I figured I'd post this up for everyone since I didn't find anything on the interwebs showing the level of detail I was after. Should save a DIY guy a bit of coin. I'm personally the type of guy that just enjoys working on his cars and would rather do the work myself knowing it was done right the first time. In any case enjoy.

*Tools/Fluids required:*

-T25 torx bit
-T45 torx bit
-ratchet or electric impact driver for bits
-hose clamp removal tool or 90deg offset needle nose pliers
-small flat head screw driver (used to loosen hoses upon removal)
-coolant evacuation tool (not required, but recommended and is used in the following procedure)
-1 gallon of G12/G13 coolant
-1 gallon distilled water

*Time to complete:* roughly 45min - 3hrs depending on mechanical ability

*Coolant Flush Procedure* (at least what worked for me)

1 - Put car up in the air ensuring it is adequately supported and secure.
2 - Remove lower engine noise insulation cover
3 - Remove cap on shunt tank
4 - Position fluid catch pan accordingly and remove lower radiator hose from tee on engine side (easier to get to then removing hose off radiator)









5 - Re-position fluid catch pan and remove outlet hose from circulation pump









6 - Ensure the system has had a chance to completely drain
7 - Re-install hoses on tee and pump
8 - Install evacuation kit. (Note: I found that the 35mm adapter worked in the shunt tank once the tool was installed and the knurled knob was adjusted)









9 - Insert the key into the car and turn it to the on position then proceed to turn the heat on.
10 - Pull a vacuum (25inhg) on the system and let it sit for at least a minute to ensure the vacuum is held and there are no leaks in the system. If there are leaks obviously they will need to be fixed. For details on how to operate the tool kit see below.









11 - Turn the key off in the car.
12 - Fill the new coolant container with your desired mixture, I chose 60/40 since I live in the frozen tundra.
13 - Install the suction hose into the container holding the new coolant mixture.
14 - Briefly pull vacuum again on the system with the valve to remove the air from the suction hose and prime it with coolant.
15 - Disconnect the air feed to the tool and open the valve for the suction hose.
16 - Allow the system to fill until the shunt tank level reaches within the max/min range as indicated on the shunt tank.
17 - Disconnect the tool.
18 - Start the engine and check for leaks.
19 - Shut the engine off and re-install the noise insulation.
20 - Take the car for a test drive bringing the coolant temp up to normal operating temperature.
21 - Check coolant level and top off as necessary.

*Note:* The evacuation tool isn't necessarily required, but it ensures a complete fill the first time. If so desired you could fill the shunt tank manually; however take note that you will have to 'burp' the system to adequately fill it. This may be accomplished by removing the highest hose in the cooling system to allow the air to escape. Once coolant begins to come out of the line re-install the hose. Not doing this procedure can result in cavitation of the water pump, which can cause system failure.

View attachment PDF_3466_Schwaben_Coolant_Refill-Air_Purge_Tool_Instructions.pdf


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Tonipoloni said:


> *Thanks for all that advice and info* - yes relieved the pressure with exp tank top off - also removed the small overflow hose at the top of the rad etc etc, so as you say without taking the car to bits, probably the best I can do.
> I've flushed with de-ionised water rather than tap water to keep it pure, and about to drain all that off now. My theory is to then *premix 60/40 de-ionised water/concentrate* and fill, run the engine and keep topping up until the level correct.
> Then be guided by the colour as much as anything. After the last flush it's almost running clear, so I recon once it's fully mixed and the right shade of pink it'll be about right.
> I bought a cheap tester but I'm not sure if it's accurate. Do you have a recommendation for one that would be reliable?


I would go the other way around--use more coolant than water in the ratio when refilling. Now you've already heavily diluted the system with water over coolant so filling with a higher concentration of water afterwards will only exacerbate that. If you live somewhere without winter this is probably not a problem (and more water will actually help to run cooler); otherwise I wouldn't go below 50% coolant in your end concentration which means you'd now need to add more coolant than water.

As for the refilling and worrying about having a pressurised fill tool, etc... I wouldn't worry about it. I drained and refilled the coolant on both my cars now (the A3 when I replaced the turbo, the TT when did the timing belt & water pump) and neither required any crazy procedure to refill and bleed air, etc. Just took a couple days of topping up until the level stabilised. After the initial refill it would drop again after each drive and I'd put more in, until I didn't have to do that and the level stayed full. Now I never got any harmful air pockets or overheating due to air with either car, which is not to say you _won't_; but having done it 2x now on two cars with different engines and water pump designs, but basically the same cooling system otherwise? I'm pretty confident in saying you don't need any fancy equipment to refill, purge, or "burp" air out of them either.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

> I bought a cheap tester but I'm not sure if it's accurate. Do you have a recommendation for one that would be reliable?


Yes. It's actually mentioned in the Workshop Manuals. I picked one up from Amazon and it actually works quite well and is very easy to use -

*Tool Review - Refractometer for Checking your Fluids*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1888169


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## Tonipoloni (Nov 21, 2020)

*Thank you guys for all your info and wisdom!* Sorry I haven't replied sooner.
I think I'll invest in one of those testers SJP - sounds like to best way to know if the concentration's right - *and before winter.*


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