# Project ResTToration



## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

I acquired a lightly wrecked and heavily abused black 225 coupe in 2008 from a repossession lot along with a friend. It sat until 2013 due to finish engineering school, moving away to start my career, etc etc. In 2013, I wrecked my white 180Q coupe, and this initiated the rebuild. It's been a slow process that has seen progress start and stop several times, and a severed relationship with said friend resulted in me getting the car back this past weekend. I have a long build thread on the Vortex, but a lot of it isn't relevant. I'll be updating this thread as progress resumes now that I have the car back. Here's the car in it's current state, as I got it back this weekend.










Parts in hand/Modifications planned
2008cc shortblock, IE drilled rods, JE 83mm pistons, OEM FSI crank, King bearings
PagParts Vband turbo manifold with Tial WG and GT35R
Orange Haldex controller
H&R RSS coilovers
2 pair of CPT adjustable rear lateral links
Modified rear OEM swaybar
Clutchmasters twin disc FX725 "race" clutch setup
1200cc injectors with aftermarket rail and Aeromotive FPR
SEM large port intake manifold with 80mm throttle
VF side engine mounts

I have a CNC'ed QED large port cylinder head with Supertech valves, Cat springs and retainers, Cat adjustable cam gear, and Cat 3658 camshafts. This will get installed on the freshly built shortblock stroker that is in the car. I'll update this post this weekend with lots of pics as I start to work on the car and some pics from the transformation to it's current state. Obviously the exterior is ROUGH, but I'm more concerned with performance obviously, and may even christen it the RaTTRod and leave it patina'ed. I've also considered installing the white doors from my 180Q to go along with the white hatch, and make it a police look. :lol: Many options, but I want to get it running first then worry about looks. Stay tuned......


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Subscribed, glad you got it back!


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Apparently, someone had bought this car for his misses on the side. Her idea of maintenance was putting gas in the car. When I got it, it was lightly wrecked in the front (aren't they all?). The hood was folded up, slightly bent driver's fender, bumper broken in a bunch of pieces, and the icing on the cake, which is why the repo lot finally found her/the car....the timing belt has frayed and bent all 8 exhaust valves and the middle intake valves. When I got it, the car was 7 years old, and was disgusting inside, so I started with ripping out the black interior and installing the fresh gray interior.

How the car sat for a long time.









This is what the hood looked like when I took delivery.









Condition of the interior really tells you a lot about the owner.......puke! 









The water that came out of the carpet after I removed it and hosed it off looked like straight coffee. There were some fingernails, some hair extensions, some french fries, and lots of stains, all under the driver's seat.

This is what the interior looked like after the 7/8th interior swap (steering wheel, center console, carpet, both rear side panels, rear seat cushion, all the hatch trim, floor, and door sills.

















Currently the car has no seats and is full of a few transmissions, wiring harnesses, and various other parts, but I have the still have the gray seats in these pictures, though they'll be replaced with aftermarket seats eventually.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

After sitting for ~6 years, there was some surface rust on the hatch at the base of the glass, so the hatch came off. 









And it was replaced with the mint one from the wrecked 180Q.









Here's the front subframe powdercoated, new steering rack, spindles coated, new bearings and hubs, Defcon's installed in control arms. The wheels and tires and KW coilovers in this picture have been replaced with H&R RSS coils and unsure on wheel/tire direction at this time, but they'll be at least 285's.









Front subframe bracing added before coating. 









Rear subframe coated, all new bushings, new axles, trailing arms coated, two pair of adjustable lateral links, and an orange Haldex controller. The brakes in this picture will not be used, and the Neuspeed swaybar is replaced with a modified OEM bar.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Bottom end of engine during assembly, FSI crankshaft, IE rods, JE pistons, etc etc

















I swapped in both engine harnesses from my AWP 180Q, so the engine will have wideband o2 sensor and the variable cam tensioner with approriate ECU.


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Do the TT come standard with twin reverse lights in the USA :?:


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

YELLOW_TT said:


> Do the TT come standard with twin reverse lights in the USA :?:


Yes, they do. Want to trade a taillight? PM me to discuss.

Correct oil pan installed with level sensor. 









Crankshaft drilled and dowel'ed to pin the timing gear.









Engine will have SEM large port intake manifold and 80mm throttle and ATP fuel rail.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

I installed the Mk4 power steering line as it doesn't run up and over the driveshaft/exhaust tunnel. I like to leave the power steering connected and remove the pump from the block when I take the motor out of the car. That way you don't have to deal with replacing fluid, and this line makes that easier. 









I also mounted the steering reservoir the same way I had it mounted in my old GTI, using a short stand off and a nut underneath, mounted lower on the frame rail. This let's the line run under the motor mount instead of above, making the bay less cluttered when the engine is in. 

















During the wiring harness swap, I was left with this patch of neglect caused by battery acid spills over the years. 








After a little grinding and cleanup....








And a little paint after taping up the ground (earth to you guys) locations....


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Nice work!, proper resto
Even on the bits Ive done, suspension and a few other things, my best efforts have been wire brush the loose rust and slap on the hammerite/rust remedy  .


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Nice work!, proper resto
> Even on the bits Ive done, suspension and a few other things, my best efforts have been wire brush the loose rust and slap on the hammerite/rust remedy  .


Where I live in the southern US, we don't get bad enough winter weather to salt the roads, so rust isn't too much of an issue for me.


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

CollecTTor said:


> After sitting for ~6 years, there was some surface rust on the hatch at the base of the glass, so the hatch came off.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would so love to do this to my car, I'm jealous

Good work


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

This is what i call a proper build thread with proper power


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## DazWaite (Dec 4, 2012)

Looking good dude....how did you do your bore squirters?

Relief on piston?
Copper washer spacer?

Daz


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

DazWaite said:


> Looking good dude....how did you do your bore squirters?
> 
> Relief on piston?
> Copper washer spacer?
> ...


I somewhat "pioneered" copper washers (even though it's a crude solution) on the squirters back in 2008, so I just went with the same jets and washers from my previous motor.

Pistons are notched, but I always check clearance regardless. Here's the oil squirter on piston #4. I only use one copper washer here and milled the body of the squirter down to increase clearance on the trigger wheel/crank position wheel. The other 3 squirters have two copper washers. It's TIGHT on clearance, but I ran this setup for over 50K miles in my GTI so should be fine.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Finally a proper build thread again. Going to follow this with interest.

Keep the good work going [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Ooh, I like a good restoration 
I love the work on the subframes, if I had a garage, I'd definitely be doing that. 
Intrigued to see where this one goes...


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

About damn time Adam!

Btw, unless you want nasty nasty GRIP, I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II for the price here in the states. $430ish shipped from tire rack in 275. I imagine 285 would not be much higher either.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> About damn time Adam!
> 
> Btw, unless you want nasty nasty GRIP, I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II for the price here in the states. $430ish shipped from tire rack in 275. I imagine 285 would not be much higher either.


No, I prefer nasty grip. :lol: HTR ZIIs have horrible reviews and a 360 treadware rating. I'm not building a luxury cruiser here. :twisted:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

This is looking to be an epic build. I have only just scratched the surface on mine but you are going many places I plan to go in the future. Good luck with it and I will be glued to this build for sure. Thanks for you contributions 

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

A proper restoration thread, brilliant.

As the car gets older and rarer, more and more of us will be referring to this in years to come. Very, very useful and thanks for sharing.

Good luck with it! [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

CollecTTor said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > About damn time Adam!
> ...


They have mixed reviews, I've seen great reviews as well, and for the price they have exceptional performance. That 360 tread wear isn't the worst thing ever, most people squeeze 20k out of these tires according to reviews.

But you're right, they are not the 'grippiest' tire out there by far. What options where you looking at anyways?


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> They have mixed reviews, I've seen great reviews as well, and for the price they have exceptional performance. That 360 tread wear isn't the worst thing ever, most people squeeze 20k out of these tires according to reviews.
> 
> But you're right, they are not the 'grippiest' tire out there by far. What options where you looking at anyways?


7 out of 10 on Tirerack would buy again. I wouldn't trust 7 out of 10 strangers to tell me what's good for lunch, much less what's a good tire. It's one of those things where someone may consider themselves a spirited driver, but they're doing about 6/10th's what a true aggressive driver is doing, but rate the tires based on "giving them all the car had," which may not have been much to begin with. :lol: Expectations are different for different people. When the time comes, I'll probably lean towards something like the Dunlop Direzza ZII's, that's what I've been running on my daily the last few years.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> I'll probably lean towards something like the Dunlop Direzza ZII's


Now that's a good tire! Dunlop Dirrezza ZII, BFG g-force Rival S, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R, Hankook Ventus RS3 (v2), and Toyo Proxes R1R are in a class of their own, everything else (street tires in the US) is basically crap compared to these for the use that you have for the car. The tire Gonzy suggested is like a donut spare tire compared to the tires listed.


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > I'll probably lean towards something like the Dunlop Direzza ZII's
> ...


It's also a spare tire price compared to some of those! Almost 40% less money compared to the RS3's (which I wish I could afford to put on my car given how expensive my repairs are gonna be).

I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II *for the price* here in the states.

Would I love to run the RS3s, R1R/R888, G-Force Rivals etc? Ofc. But my comment was strictly based on a tire with optimal performance (8.5 traction /10 and low 8's on steering response and cornering) matching a cost of average street tires.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > I'll probably lean towards something like the Dunlop Direzza ZII's
> ...


 :lol: @ donut spare. R1R's don't come in anything bigger than 255's.  Forgot about the RS3 v2's, I've had a set of those before as well, but I've loved the Direzzas the last two sets.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> It's also a spare tire price compared to some of those! Almost 40% less money compared to the RS3's (which I wish I could afford to put on my car given how expensive my repairs are gonna be).
> 
> I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II *for the price* here in the states.
> 
> Would I love to run the RS3s, R1R/R888, G-Force Rivals etc? Ofc. But my comment was strictly based on a tire with optimal performance (8.5 traction /10 and low 8's on steering response and cornering) matching a cost of average street tires.


Performance costs money. Cornering ability is important to some of us. Tires are the biggest factor there. An 8.5 out of 10 rating for traction from a random group of people with different cars, different experience levels, and different uses for the tire in question will all have different judgement on "traction." Take those Tirerack reviews with a grain of salt and remember that they come from all corners and all walks of life. Bargain basement tires are just that, bargain, aka economy. The RS3v2 are $232 for a 275/35/18. If you can only afford HALF that per tire, you're in the wrong hobby.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II *for the price* here in the states.
> 
> Would I love to run the RS3s, R1R/R888, G-Force Rivals etc? Ofc. But my comment was strictly based on a tire with optimal performance (8.5 traction /10 and low 8's on steering response and cornering) matching a cost of average street tires.


I don't think Adam's build qualifies as a budget street car with some performance in mind. This thing will generate some real power (probably more than yours and mine combined). So budget and average are not terms that should even be brought up here... I think. :lol:


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > I really don't think you can beat the HTR Z II *for the price* here in the states.
> ...


More than fair! You're right on that one haha.

Why not just go Hoosier radials then?


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > CollecTTor said:
> ...


I didn't bother checking available sizes, I was just giving the list of top rated street tires (comparable to the ZIIs). The Dirrezza are my overall favorite too. They might give away a bit of dry or wet performance over another one on the list, but all-around they're the champ! I believe I was the one that recommended the Dirrezzas to you, as I have been a big fan and cheerleader since they were Z1 and Z1*specs. Amazing street tire!

Have you considered the DOT approved competition tires with grooved threads? I ran on those as double duty tires on the EVO for years and they're a step above the street tires. Nitto NT01, Toyo R888, etc. They won't last ast long, but the performance is very close to full soft slicks. For that kind of beast you may have to go there to prevent some disasters (in the evo with only 500 whp, I could break all 4 tires loose whenever I wanted with DOT competition tires).


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> I didn't bother checking available sizes, I was just giving the list of top rated street tires (comparable to the ZIIs). The Dirrezza are my overall favorite too. They might give away a bit of dry or wet performance over another one on the list, but all-around they're the champ! I believe I was the one that recommended the Dirrezzas to you, as I have been a big fan and cheerleader since they were Z1 and Z1*specs. Amazing street tire!
> 
> Have you considered the DOT approved competition tires with grooved threads? I ran on those as double duty tires on the EVO for years and they're a step above the street tires. Nitto NT01, Toyo R888, etc. They won't last ast long, but the performance is very close to full soft slicks. For that kind of beast you may have to go there to prevent some disasters (in the evo with only 500 whp, I could break all 4 tires loose whenever I wanted with DOT competition tires).


Yes, you did, as I was leaning towards the old Z1 Star Specs when you steered me properly to the ZII's. 8) I'm not set on any direction for tires yet. The car won't see many miles on the street, but I want to be able to enjoy it on the street at the same time. I do have a Turbosmart Eboost2 EBC which can do gear based boost, but obviously don't want traction to limit power. I'm also not opposed to a really aggressive set of tires like the R888's for real duty and a set of drag radials for playing on street, though that's still a compromise.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > I didn't bother checking available sizes, I was just giving the list of top rated street tires (comparable to the ZIIs). The Dirrezza are my overall favorite too. They might give away a bit of dry or wet performance over another one on the list, but all-around they're the champ! I believe I was the one that recommended the Dirrezzas to you, as I have been a big fan and cheerleader since they were Z1 and Z1*specs. Amazing street tire!
> ...


The Nitto NT01 (which is my favorite in that category) and the Toyo R888 are very streetable double duty tires and do very well at the drag strip. I daily drove my evo in NY on 285 R888, and they were good enough for low 11's on the 500 whp car with me behind the wheels (so you know that's a shit show at the strip). With a wide set of NT01 or R888, you're pretty much set for everything!

PS: Stop with that EBC boost by gear traction control stuff! This build deserves an AEM infinity and nothing else. You can do lauch sequence traction control by gear, speed, an rpm. You will also save big time in the long run with tuning cost... while doing it like a gentleman instead of monkey playing with the ME7.5 motronic BS. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> ite in that category) and the Toyo R888 are very streetable double duty tires and do very well at the drag strip. I daily drove my evo in NY on 285 R888, and they were good enough for low 11's on the 500 whp car with me behind the wheels (so you know that's a shit show at the strip). With a wide set of NT01 or R888, you're pretty much set for everything!
> 
> PS: Stop with that EBC boost by gear traction control stuff! This build deserves an AEM infinity and nothing else. You can do lauch sequence traction control by gear, speed, an rpm. You will also save big time in the long run with tuning cost... while doing it like a gentleman instead of monkey playing with the ME7.5 motronic BS. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Money doesn't grow on trees, Max. I have to buy all these huge tires and wheels we keep talking about too. [smiley=bigcry.gif] Yes, ME7.5 files and EBC's and WOT Box's are all simple solutions to single issues, but I have all of them in my hands so cost is nothing. Infinity will have to wait until I buy a house this year. The file/ECU I plan to use was "custom" tuned to my setup, and this car will have the same fueling setup and engine other than the built head so should be liveable for the time being. I'm not paying a cent for any ME7.5 tuning ever again.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

I hear you man, why do you think I am reduced to one horse in the stable. Maybe it's time to "consolidate" and get rid of a few cars while you're at it. Kinda miss the ME student Adam that saw the world as an equation, and had a nice formula to explain everything, now you're starting to sound like me. Yuk!

All I know is that I have successfully planted the mind bomb! Sooner or later it'll explode and someone will be knocking at the Infinity door! :mrgreen:


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> I hear you man, why do you think I am reduced to one horse in the stable. Maybe it's time to "consolidate" and get rid of a few cars while you're at it. Kinda miss the ME student Adam that saw the world as an equation, and had a nice formula to explain everything, now you're starting to sound like me. Yuk!
> 
> All I know is that I have successfully planted the mind bomb! Sooner or later it'll explode and someone will be knocking at the Infinity door! :mrgreen:


Yes, the bomb has been planted. :lol: I'm working on getting the roadster running so I can put it up for sale. That'll pay for wheels, tires, and the Infinity. Spring is vert season......soon. 8)


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

So the weather was glorious today, high of 23°C and sunny with low humidity, so I took the day off of work and spent the whole day playing with the cars.

I started the day with the car full of.....everything. :lol: 









Once that was all out, she didn't look so bad.









So then I started on taking apart the old engine from the convertible I bought about six months ago. 









This is when things got interesting. I started with the clutch, and took the twin disc off to find this.








So maybe that's the "knocking"that I knew about when I bought the car and thought was a spun rod bearing. All the bolts were loose, and two sheared the heads off when I attempted to remove them! That flywheel was one hard shift away from amputating the previous owner. Scary stuff.

Then I took the cnc'd head off. This is the PagParts/PPG Vband manifold that was home to a GT35R.









Well the turbine housing was loose on that turbo, so the exhaust wheel is chewed up. [smiley=bigcry.gif] There's almost no play in the bearings though, so the turbo can be fixed with a new exhaust wheel









Here's that bad turbo with the lines on it next to my own previous 35R from my GTI. 









Back to the motor, while taking the timing belt off, I found the roller bolt was lose and bent.









This whole engine setup was barely held together, I don't know how the owner was driving it when it started making noise and he parked it. [smiley=bomb.gif] More tomorrow....


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

So I kept digging into the motor. I had to beat the FW off with a hammer, despite the installer using so much grease to aid in assembly. [smiley=bigcry.gif] This is the back of the flywheel, with impressions...








And the face of the crank snout (notice the loose oil pan bolt)








I'm not sure what got in between there, but it looks awful. I'll clean up the back of the FW on a lathe, but the crank is likely going in the garbage.

This motor had Mahle motorsport pistons with a low 8.5:1 compression ratio, but still has seen some detonation or FOD/foreign matter digestion or both.

























Sigh. I'm expecting the piston skirts to look beat up as I know this motor has had a rough life. I got the short block on the engine stand, but didn't remove the oil pan yet. One bonus is the engine had Raceware head studs that I didn't know about, so no need to buy those for the project engine. I spent the rest of the day after lunch with my dad putting new rotors on the rest of the convertible and organising the work shop, making room for engine building, stacking tires, etc etc etc. More to come....


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

You've got to wonder what kind of a cowboy put that thing together, it looks awful at every stage. Looking forward to you putting it back together again


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Garth said:


> You've got to wonder what kind of a cowboy put that thing together, it looks awful at every stage. Looking forward to you putting it back together again


I was thinking the same thing. Gobsmacked!


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

CollecTTor said:


> So I kept digging into the motor. I had to beat the FW off with a hammer, despite the installer using so much grease to aid in assembly. [smiley=bigcry.gif] This is the back of the flywheel, with impressions...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had detonation marks like that on my previous Pistons. Funny enough they were also low compression Pistons - to be fair they were a bit worse than the ones you have posted.

Looking forward to seeing the results off this build


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Holy crap Adam! You have to start from scratch with this "built" motor.

Maybe it's the pics (I'm using a cell phone) but that doesn't look like detonation sign to me. Almost looks like something metallic was ingested at some point.


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Madmax199 said:


> Holy crap Adam! You have to start from scratch with this "built" motor.
> 
> Maybe it's the pics (I'm using a cell phone) but that doesn't look like detonation sign to me. Almost looks like something metallic was ingested at some point.


Agreed does look like that


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## DazWaite (Dec 4, 2012)

Madmax199 said:


> Holy crap Adam! You have to start from scratch with this "built" motor.
> 
> Maybe it's the pics (I'm using a cell phone) but that doesn't look like detonation sign to me. Almost looks like something metallic was ingested at some point.


Probably the car in front.....

Must have passed through the turbo too hence the chewed turbine....

Daz


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Holy crap Adam! You have to start from scratch with this "built" motor.
> 
> Maybe it's the pics (I'm using a cell phone) but that doesn't look like detonation sign to me. Almost looks like something metallic was ingested at some point.


Yeah, I said FOD or detonation or both. Two pistons looked like detonation, two looked like FOD/FM. But no, this motor won't be going into the project, this is just what came from the convertible, the cylinder head donor. The teardown is scary for sure though. :lol: All the internals were done by Bob Q and haven't been touched. Everything external is a gamble. The built stroker bottom end from the beginning of the build thread is still in the car, with the previous head removed. That motor was never run. Here's how she sits.....









I'm going to tear down the built CNC'ed head with cams and make sure everything is good there, then slap it on the stroker, and put the Pag turbo kit on it with the SEM manifold. If the rods are good out of this motor I'm tearing down, they'll go in the engine for the daily, along with the other Pag 35R setup after I rebuild that turbo with a billet wheel. Unfortunately, I'm going to Colorado for a week of testing in the morning and won't be back to the car for two weeks. [smiley=bomb.gif]

While I'm here, and since this is a motorsports build thread, are the two flat pads on the radiator support where the hood bump stops hit the best place to mount the hood latches? You can see them in the picture above. I think I"ve seen them there in your pics, Max. Thanks!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Sorry I missed the question Adam, yes that would be a good spot. You want a flat surface for the lower bolt nut to rest on the latches, and the placement/spacing is also good.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Sorry I missed the question Adam, yes that would be a good spot. You want a flat surface for the lower bolt nut to rest on the latches, and the placement/spacing is also good.


Thanks Max! 8) I worked on the convertible stock restoration all day on Saturday, so no updates on the real ResTToration project for now. I got another set of the SPC adjustable top mounts, and went to install them on the H&R RSS coils, only to realize I no longer have the upper spring perches. Max, or anyone else, would you happen to know if OEM spring perches will work? I'm assuming not, but didn't have time to disassemble a strut and try them out this weekend.

On another note, I did take the oil pan off the convertible motor, and no spun rod bearings.  That means I have a set of good forged rods for my daily. 8)


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## kane (Jul 26, 2010)

I want to see more of this


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

kane said:


> I want to see more of this


He rage quit the forums, lol.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> > I want to see more of this
> ...


Too bad. Quite knowledgable guy.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> > I want to see more of this
> ...


It wasn't rage, more just not going to play games with the regulars and there is no point in posting when the peanut crowd likes to argue with you over known, proven, documented facts. It isn't very conducive to keeping knowledgeable, experienced people around and actively posting. I lurk here, and see the same topics re-answered over and over and over. Unfortunately, I see a lot of incorrect answers to those questions regurgitated over and over as well. I just don't feel the need to fight and convince people of their inaccurate assumptions when I know they are wrong. Yet they're clinging to their stance, as no one likes to be proven wrong, regardless of that fact that there's no competition going on here.

Moving on, I have been restoring a convertible for the past 6 months or so and it's just about ready to leave my garage. Got them both in the sun this weekend and washed the coupe and cleaned the interior a little on the vert. 









I've been repairing the glass (with a little help from the wifey!) that falls out of the top that the PO had attempted to glue several times. :roll: 









I'll be purchasing wheels and tires for the project car in the next two weeks, along with a TIG welder so I can start fabbing IC piping the way I want it instead of dealing with welders who aren't car guys and tuner shops that don't know squat. I'll post pics when the wheels are mounted as the car is moving to my home garage as soon as the vert sells.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > He rage quit the forums, lol.
> ...


Exactly how I feel about this forum too. That's why I lurk more and try not to even engage the misconceptions anymore. It's known that you can't teach old dogs new tricks, but it seems that even presenting a new or different idea is taken as an insult (even if better). Not worth it when the collective is set in their ways.

PS: happy to see you're giving the vert the love that it deserves!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Perhaps a little less:
"Prophets are not recognised in their own lifetime " /"I give you the only truth" and "Lord forgive them for they know not what they do" attitude might engender a more favorable interaction?
Then again"Ask me if I care ?"


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

3TT3 said:


> Perhaps a little less:
> "Prophets are not recognised in their own lifetime " /"I give you the only truth" and "Lord forgive them for they know not what they do" attitude might engender a more favorable interaction?
> Then again"Ask me if I care ?"


You just hit the ball out the park 3TT3, spot on :wink:


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## kane (Jul 26, 2010)

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > Gonzalo1495 said:
> ...


But then again... 
If you guys that know stuff because you do stuff don't take the fight with those who know stuff because they read it on the interwebs, we who like to read to be able to do, or at least tell someone with hands i stead of carrots and bananas what to do, have to trust those who know stuff they have read because the ones who know what they are doing are just lurking...

That has got to be one of the longest sentences this year  
But you get my point, let us who have no understanding lurk in the threads, for there is a number, a magi number. An the number is 2020 :twisted:


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

kane said:


> But then again...
> If you guys that know stuff because you do stuff don't take the fight with those who know stuff because they read it on the interwebs, we who like to read to be able to do, or at least tell someone with hands i stead of carrots and bananas what to do, have to trust those who know stuff they have read because the ones who know what they are doing are just lurking...
> 
> That has got to be one of the longest sentences this year
> But you get my point, let us who have no understanding lurk in the threads, for there is a number, a magi number. An the number is 2020 :twisted:


It's down to time available to post. Being active in so many forums (between various TT forums, evo forums, Racing forums etc.) the time allocated to posting somewhere or another is limited. I embrace and welcome a good technical banter, but when every other post is turned into childish nonsense perpetrated by the same person, it becomes counterproductive. I love these cars and enjoy talking about them, but it's not that serious or important if it's going to be unpleasantly turned into anything that's not TT related.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Madmax199 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> > But then again...
> ...


I really wish you would answer my PM about how wide the collector / turbine inlet can be milled too before it becomes diminishing returns or becomes much more likely to crack, I know 47mm is safe and that 48mm is a possibility but I'm still questioning if 49mm or even 50mm would be a possibility. I've measured it and drawn it out and there looks like there's still enough material but a second opinion of someone more knowledgeable would be nice.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

TT Tom TT said:


> I really wish you would answer my PM about how wide the collector / turbine inlet can be milled too before it becomes diminishing returns or becomes much more likely to crack, I know 47mm is safe and that 48mm is a possibility but I'm still questioning if 49mm or even 50mm would be a possibility. I've measured it and drawn it out and there looks like there's still enough material but a second opinion of someone more knowledgeable would be nice.


You're over thinking things, and it's not related to my project. Start your own thread if you want to discuss porting OEM manifolds.


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Madmax199 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> > But then again...
> ...


 [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=baby.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> I embrace and welcome a good technical banter, *but when every other post is turned into childish nonsense perpetrated by the same person, it becomes counterproductive*. I love these cars and enjoy talking about them, but it's not that serious or important if it's going to be unpleasantly turned into anything that's not TT related.





jamman said:


> [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=baby.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Right on time and proving Max's point for all to see. He'll probably follow up this contribution with "Knew they couldn't resist" as if trolling is some skill, or maybe he'll repeat the emoticons. His responses are limited in their predictability. I can tell he missed me over this six months or so, as he's picked up right where we left off, instantly instigating as soon as I resumed posting. :roll:


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Adam what breaking strain line should I use for two of Americas finest self manipulators. :-* :-*


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

I embrace and welcome a good technical banter, but when every other post is turned into childish nonsense perpetrated by the same person, it becomes counterproductive.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

I replaced the springs on RSS coilovers with 1" shorter springs and increased spring rate from 685 lbs/in to 784 lbs/in (14.0 kg/mm). 









This is all based on input from Max. [smiley=cheers.gif] This will compensate for removing the front swaybar, as well as make more room for the wheels and 275 tires in the front so that they aren't poking out past the fender so much. Both helper springs are compressed to roughly the same "height," you can see the added clearance on the unit on the left with the helper and its perch moved up on the threaded body. 









One set of wheel adapters arrive tomorrow, which will let me determine clearance needed to order the second pair of adapters for the front of the car. So hopefully next weekend I can get the wheel/tire combo mounted, pics to follow.


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## Space (Apr 24, 2014)

Nice build you have there mate.  Follow!


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Very nice! And the cherry on top of all the other positives from doing this is that you upgraded to Swift springs. That in itself will be big improvement on a track car.

Why are you still keeping the Zero-rate helpers? It's not like they're tenders that will affect the effective spring rate in any way. They're only there to take up slack at full droop. I would just remove them, which will further reduce unsprung weight, and give you even more clearance by moving the perches position even higher. That track car is going to be a beast!


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Why are you still keeping the Zero-rate helpers? It's not like they're tenders that will affect the effective spring rate in any way. They're only there to take up slack at full droop. I would just remove them, which will further reduce unsprung weight, and give you even more clearance by moving the perches position even higher. That track car is going to be a beast!


Without them, and the adjusters spun all the way up, the spring still doesn't contact the upper spring perch. 6" would probably be better than the 5" springs. You can see the gap between the top of the threads and the bottom of the new spring.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > Why are you still keeping the Zero-rate helpers? It's not like they're tenders that will affect the effective spring rate in any way. They're only there to take up slack at full droop. I would just remove them, which will further reduce unsprung weight, and give you even more clearance by moving the perches position even higher. That track car is going to be a beast!
> ...


Machine a small spacer (aluminum would do) -- or buy a pair (they're all over the net) to take up the slack. Remember mine are short too and I don't run the helpers. I had some laying around in the garage and just used them.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

I know you can make some, but here is a link in case someone wants to clone the setup

http://www.jegs.com/i/Coleman+Racing+Pr ... hgodaxgH8g


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

RSS coils installed with new wheels and tires.




























Yeah, there's a little poke. :lol: 275/40/17 Nitto NT01 with 17x9.5 Enkei RPF1 in 5x114.3 ET38 with 25mm adapters. With Mk2 ball joints and SPC eccentric top mounts, I ended up with -3.8*/-3.9* camber in the front. Supposed to run a track day on Sunday at Barber Motorsports Park, but forecast is for 100% rain and cold temps. :evil:


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

That is some serious poke you have there brother. :wink: Looks great.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Looking proper for track action!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

State side chaps. Verboten over here. :?

VT


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Von Twinzig said:


> State side chaps. Verboten over here. :?
> 
> VT


And what are we verboten from? :lol:

A quick pic from my wet track day yesterday....


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

CollecTTor said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > State side chaps. Verboten over here. :?
> ...


Not you, us....sticky out wheels and tyres.

VT


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Von Twinzig said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> > Von Twinzig said:
> ...


I drove like this to the track and on a local mountain twisty hilly section to make sure everything was fine after suspension change and alignment, but other than that, these wheels and tires are track only. What's to stop you guys from switching wheels and tires after your MOT? Would this literally get you pulled over? Maybe not this aggressive, but how quick is the law to measure?


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## dirty (Mar 28, 2017)

Very nice, subbed.


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## SimbadCA (Dec 7, 2017)

A year has past...perhaps you've had a few other track days.
Any issues with the tire size? 
I've only had mine for two months and it came with 225/40 on 18x7.5.
With all your suspension work, do you have a "gap" at the strut cup top?...I've not reviewed all your photos.
TIA


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## Grimsvotn (Nov 13, 2018)

Great to see that come from the shambles it was to having all that work done on it. Amazing i love it. I would love to have a project like this, i would disasemble then get lost


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