# DIY Change Turbo to Manifold Gasket with Pictures



## jonnyl888

Hi everyone, just changed the failed turbo gasket in my TT and thought I'd show you guys how if you have the same problem.

Symptoms:
- Early symptoms include turbo whistling or screeching for me (just days before gasket failed)
- Loud tractor/noise like this 



- Possible smoke /smell of exhaust fumes coming from back of engine

Diagnosis:
- Ask a garage to find out what the noise is
- Or get a bottle of soapy water and spray the area on the exhaust where there could be an exhaust leak, you will see bubbling if air is escaping.

If you find out its coming from between the turbo and the exhaust manifold, it could be that the gasket has failed.

So here is how to change the gasket, it's not a difficult job but you need the basic tools and some knowledge around the engine.

Tools required:
- Basic socket and rachet set with extensions (can't remember which size but 10mm to 18mm should be more than enough).
- E16 Inverse Torx socket
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Copper grease

You should be good to go :mrgreen:

Parts required:
Either 06A253039E - the turbo to manifold gasket for engines AJQ,APP,ARY AUM,AUQ (around £7 from Audi)
Or 06A253039H - for engines APX,BAM

Anything else you break on the way  , you can look here for the part numbers http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/ATT/2000/229/49/2879213/

Steps:

1. Park the car somewhere safe, in case you come across a problem and have to leave it overnight. Luckily we don't need to get under the car.

2. Open bonnet, remove plastic engine and expansion tank covers.

3. First thing to do is remove the strut brace, 3 nuts on each side and 2 in the middle.

4. Unclamp and disconnect the 2 hoses connected to the charge pipe (photo).

5. Now remove the charge pipe, this is held on with two clamps (each with a nut). Unclamp the large jubilee clips on both end to fully remove the pipe.










6. Unclamp and remove the pink 90 degree hose from the turbocharger as well as the fabric heat shield which is buttoned in place.

7. Place a rubber glove or plastic bag over the open end of the turbocharger, we do not want things falling in there as it could damage the turbine.

8. NOW with more space, look round at the back of the engine. You can climb onto the engine bay but careful to not scratch the paint work. Find the exhaust manifold, the brown iron thing coming out the back of the engine (photo).

9. Undo the 3 E16 Inverse Torx bolts And retreive the washers **BE CAREFUL**, they can be very stiff, I ended up shearing one of them so now half of it is stuck inside the turbocharger :O

NOTE: Should be E16, the picture shows E14 which is wrong. :!:










10. The turbo should now drop slightly, just reach between the manifold and turbocharger and you will be able to slide out the old gasket.










11. Slot the new gasket in place, REMEMBERING which way it went round.










12. Carefully align the holes up and replace the 3 bolts (and washers) with high temperature copper grease so it doesn't seize inside and cause a problem for the next guy who comes round there. Tighten these to 30Nm.

12. Replace the pink hose and clamp onto turbo with the heatshield in place.

13. Replace the charge pipe, make sure to line it up so that the 2 clamps fit back into place. Reattach the two black hoses and both ends of the charge pipe.

13. Replace strut brace (tighten each nut to 22Nm).

14. Replace plastic covers.

15. Done! Easy.


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## nilrem

Might be me but I can't see any pics ...


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## jonnyl888

Was uploading


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## nilrem

jonnyl888 said:


> Was uploading


Sorry mate


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## jonnyl888

Didn't think anyone would be that fast to ask lol.


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## brooksesi

Nice write up. Doesn't look too bad, I thought I had a bad gasket, but after listening to that vid, it's not even close to that


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## jonnyl888

I think it was starting to fail when I bought it 6 months ago, the turbo whistling and a slight rumbling sound occurred when I put my foot down. I thought this was the turbo spooling because it sounded so good :mrgreen: Now its nice and quiet.


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## LOWTT225

Think u may find your turbo or manifold is cracked it's usually the case when the gasket fails


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## roddy

good write up and pictures mate


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## Kprincess

Nice write up [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## nordic

Along with the possible turbo gasket, hot housing and manifold cracks it can also be the flex pipe failure, just right after the O2 sensor. Very similar rattling, symptoms... And even possibly an unpleasant drone noise at speeds.

Thanks for the write up, pictures always welcome


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## jonnyl888

I did suspect the flex pipe, which would have been an a**hole to change because the entire downpipe has to come off. The engine bay is so tightly packed that its difficult to even reach behind the back of the engine.

I guessed they packaged it like this to transfer as much of the weight as rearward as possible.


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## roddy

jonnyl888 said:


> I did suspect the flex pipe, which would have been an a**hole to change because the entire downpipe has to come off. The engine bay is so tightly packed that its difficult to even reach behind the back of the engine.
> 
> I guessed they packaged it like this to transfer as much of the weight as rearward as possible.


i think you are giving audi far tooo much credit there mate :lol:


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## nordic

jonnyl888 said:


> I did suspect the flex pipe, which would have been an a**hole to change because the entire downpipe has to come off. The engine bay is so tightly packed that its difficult to even reach behind the back of the engine.
> 
> I guessed they packaged it like this to transfer as much of the weight as rearward as possible.


Guess what, need to do mine - thanks Staners for the pipe! But not looking forward to do it at all...


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## percolated

Great write-up. The mechanic quoted me 900 AUD for this repair which seems outrageous.

Just a quick question: Does anyone know the item number of the inverse torx bolts? I can't find it on the diagram...
http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/ATT/20 ... 0/2879836/

Appreciate your help in advance!


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## brooksesi

06A145540G I think, it's under engine/turbocharger, not in exhaust manifold section.

jonnyl888, did you find it was noisy when cold, then quieten down when the system got hot? Did it make a kind of farty noise when you blip the throttle?


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## jonnyl888

058145540 for engines AJQ, APP, ARY, AUM, AUQ
06A145540G for APX, BAM

http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/au/ATT/2000/229/49/2879213/


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## jonnyl888

brooksesi said:


> 06A145540G I think, it's under engine/turbocharger, not in exhaust manifold section.
> 
> jonnyl888, did you find it was noisy when cold, then quieten down when the system got hot? Did it make a kind of farty noise when you blip the throttle?


There used to be a loud tractory noise when it was cold which went away after it warmed up. I think this has something to do with the secondary air intake. If I blipped the throttle I would get a rumbling noise on the inside of the car, and if I put my foot down it would whistle/screech. But after the gasket gave up one day, it was permanent tractor noise like the video.


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## brooksesi

Mine is a Bam, so no SAI, but I have heard people say the VVT for emissions makes the car sound weird when it first starts up. I'll get some rags stuffed in the exhaust and see if it leaking.


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## higsta

Hello mate,

when I had this it was quite an obvious noise and seemed like it was coming from behind the dash pod. Kind of like a blown exhaust noise. I would say you would know about it if yours has gone. It was worse when the engine was cold but you could still hear it at all times, especially under hard acceleration.

The garage were trying to get me to pay for a smoke test to confirm it was leaking but if you put your hand down the back where the manifold meets the turbo you could actually feel where the gasket had split and been pushed out either side.

Hope you get it sorted mate.


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## jonnyl888

I took it down to a local indy garage which my friend knows quite well. Inspection was free and they confirmed it was the gasket. It's quite hard to see so what he did was lift the vehicle, turn the wheel to the left to get more space, and from the right side of the car just stuck his head in and started spraying soapy water everywhere. Nice guy from Poland, doesn't mind getting stuck in and dirty. He quoted around £50-60 (2 hour job) to fix it because he thought the manifold had to come out first, but luckily the job wasn't too hard a job so I did it myself. Will be going down there again if I get a problem.


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## tangapants

Im going to give this a go as mine sounds a bit tractory, can i ask what does 22Nm mean? how do you measure that?

also youve written E16 torque required but the diagram has E14 screws?

Thanks


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## jonnyl888

tangapants said:


> Im going to give this a go as mine sounds a bit tractory, can i ask what does 22Nm mean? how do you measure that?
> 
> also youve written E16 torque required but the diagram has E14 screws?
> 
> Thanks


Yea sorry it's E16, I edited the text but not the picture.

You need a torque wrench to tighten it to 22Nm (which is the torque required to turn something). I.e. the higher the torque the tighter you screw it in. If you don't have one, you can kinda estimate. Imagine 2.2kg balancing off the end of a 1m long stick. How much turning force (torque) will this produce.


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## tangapants

jonnyl888 said:


> tangapants said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im going to give this a go as mine sounds a bit tractory, can i ask what does 22Nm mean? how do you measure that?
> 
> also youve written E16 torque required but the diagram has E14 screws?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Yea sorry it's E16, I edited the text but not the picture.
> 
> You need a torque wrench to tighten it to 22Nm (which is the torque required to turn something). I.e. the higher the torque the tighter you screw it in. If you don't have one, you can kinda estimate. Imagine 2.2kg balancing off the end of a 1m long stick. How much turning force (torque) will this produce.
Click to expand...

Ok cool, thanks!

one last thing say i get to the stage where i would next need to take the E16 bolts off, could i not run my fingers around where the gasket would be to check if its knackered or not?

Cheers


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## Frenzy

Excelent DIY!


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## jonnyl888

You could probably run your finger round and not feel anything because the gasket is tucked neatly between the turbo and manifold. Those bolts shouldn't be too hard to undo, if proper bolts were used and tightened to the correct torque setting. Problem with mine was the last guy who was in there used normal steel bolts which have a much lower operating temperature as opposed to the stainless steel Audi ones (probably why they are like £7 each  ).

Make sure you get a tonne of WD40 in there.


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## percolated

Jonny, do you recommend applying copper grease (or other sealant etc) to the Gasket itself?

My mechanic mentioned something about doing that when he described this DIY to me. He said if you didn't, the gasket would burn up quickly and you'd have to replace it again.. What do you think?

[smiley=book2.gif]


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## nordic

I put copper grease on all exhaust gaskets on assembly, and pipe joints as well. Not only copper helps to share seal heat with the surrounding metal, but also when oil vapors out, it leaves a nice copper based seal, that can withstand very high temps.

I'm slightly obsessed with the copper grease 8) - put it pretty much on everything, especially in suspension area - it makes things so much easier to disassemble should problems arise again.


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## percolated

thanks Nordic

Looking forward to tackling this job in the next few days. More confidence to do it now, with this DIY and above information.

[smiley=gossip.gif]


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## jonnyl888

Hmm, I didn't really think about that to be honest. I know the wonders of copper grease and I've started to use it a lot lately. We'll see...


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## toy4two

well I attempted and failed this for the last 2 days [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I had the oil burning smell on high boost and my turbo began whistling. Boost leak test found nothing leaking, held a nice 15 psi and dropped very slowly through the oil fill cap.

[smiley=book2.gif] Read up on this procedure, got the gasket, penetraing oil, and new bolts. Got two bolts out with penetrating oil and a power impact driver, third one, the head of the bolt stripped.

To fix, tried the usual, about 4 different types of sockets, even some new kind for rounded off bolts. no go. Bought two different extractors you pound on with a hammer and one that cuts into the metal, no go. Then bought two different types of screw extractors with drill bits, a traditional kind to use with a tap handle, and a "power extractor" that you reverse drill in and then power out, did nothing.

So I'm stuck with a rounded off bolt, drilled off center about 5cm down into the exhaust manifold which the drill bit just doesn't want to cut into.

Anyone have any ideas?


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## jonnyl888

Were they the OEM E16 external torx bolts? How did you manage to round it off? Did you go at it with an impact wrench  ?

I always use a breaker bar as it allows a lot more control, whereas an impact wrench will try to force it off.

DO NOT drill down too far as the bolt is only a few CM long and the bottom is actually the turbocharger itself. Maybe you have hit the turbo which you cant drill through.

Did you get a good set of bolt extractors? Theres a good set at Screwfix. You can just use a rachet wrench with these.

The last option which I hope you don't have to do is remove the turbo itself unfortunately. Then weld a new bolt to the rounded off bolt, then unscrew this new one.

Have you got a picture?


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## toy4two

I will get a pic tomorrow. The turbo is safe, if anything I would drill through the exhaust manifold. I am prepared to replace it with a tubular Relentless if that happens.

However, I found a tip from a machine shop owner and bought some new tools. I purchased a set of cobalt drill bits that supposedly cut through steel like butter. Then I bought a Dremel Tungsten Carbine Cutter and was told it will be a piece of cake to take off what remains of the head of the bolt. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... x?pid=9904

Once its flush I can either drill out the entire bolt and threads and put in a Helicoil to replace the threads, or if I'm lucky drilling out the center of the bolt it might release.

Wish me luck, nothing like a siezed bolt to ruin your day (or 3 days in my case [smiley=bomb.gif] )


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## higsta

That happened to me too mate. Very frustrating.
Depends what equipment you have access too but I used a welder to carefully add metal to the top of the rounded bolt and built it up to give the socket something to grip. I then used one of those turbo sockets to remove the bolt. They are sockets with reverse thread teeth in them that grip as you turn. Picked them up quite cheap from screw fix.
Good luck mate, I hope you manage to get it out.


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## higsta

Ps I feel your pain mate. It took me 2 days to get it out and as I had to drive the car as well I ended up taking it to bits and putting it back together 6 times in those 2 days.


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## higsta

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gr ... eces/96028


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## nordic

I had a prob with one of them as well, but it's really worth penetrating all that in for some time before disassembling.
I think new turbo bolts come with the head a little taller...

I've used this, everything came out like tightened a week ago, from Halfords.


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## toy4two

thanks guys, I tried again with the tungsten carbine dremel rotary, didn't do anything. Then stepped up to various cobalt metal drill bits, in 4 hours I only managed to remove about 1/4 of the material from what's left of the bolt. I've already tried those reverse sockets that grip onto whats left of the metal, no go.

I got a quote to have it done at an Audi shop, $1200 USD so thats about 800 pounds sterling in UK terms. There is no way I'm going to pay that much money to have a pro do it.

I am going to find a welder, drive over there, disassemble in his parking lot and have him weld on a new nut or just use an oxygen acetylene torch to cut it out. I'm told if the bolt is in cast iron, which it is, the torch will cut (melt) the alloy bolt right out of the manifold and won't even harm the threads. I will see how it goes.


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## toy4two

well I finally got the last bolt out. I had to take it to a welder who welded a nut onto it and go it out, cost $40.

I replaced the gasket, which I can see had a small crack in it, and the smell of burning oil at WOT is gone. Thanks all 

Here is the new part number for the bolts on a 225 (AMU engine) that superseeds the one in this thread: 
*06A-145-540-K *

You will be shocked at the cost of replacements, each bolt costs $18 USD but the kicker is the washer's are $36 USD each :roll: 
Total for 3 bolts and 3 washer's $179, the gasket only costs $20. I opted to reuse the old washers to save a substantial amount of money.


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## jonnyl888

Good to hear its all done. But how much for a bolt?????? Its £7 from Audi in the Uk  and £7 for the gasket. The washers can be reused.

Did they have to order the part from Europe?


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## toy4two

jonnyl888 said:


> Good to hear its all done. But how much for a bolt?????? Its £7 from Audi in the Uk  and £7 for the gasket. The washers can be reused.
> 
> Did they have to order the part from Europe?


12 pound sterling for the bolts. They had them in stock at Audi San Diego so no need to ship from the UK. The new part number I posted is a better design, the head is longer and stronger.


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## simno44

Would this all be the same process for a 180? I'm almost certain my air escape sound is a failed gasket.

Many thanks.


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## jhoneyman

Nightmare - these 1st generation bolts are pants. 
I boought the proper inverse torx sockets, but stripped like toffee 1st time.
The new bolt heads have much larger heads.

I bought these but no go --any thoughts ?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gr ... eces/96028


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## toy4two

jhoneyman said:


> Nightmare - these 1st generation bolts are pants.
> I boought the proper inverse torx sockets, but stripped like toffee 1st time.
> The new bolt heads have much larger heads.
> 
> I bought these but no go --any thoughts ?
> 
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-gr ... eces/96028


I tried those when mine got stuck, didn't do a thing, don't waste your money.


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## jhoneyman

i reckon i will have to get a bolt welded onto the shredded nuts [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## slider955i

Did mine a few weeks ago but pins kept on coming loose , bought a new set of pins from audi and also got me some stainless spriingwashers from work with a little loctite on the thread also , hopefully this has cured it once and for all


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## stavnshell

After reading this thread I have decided to buy all the parts and tools to do this at the weekend. I just have a few concerns - Did the old gasket come out OK and can you separate the manifold and turbo easy enough to get the new gasket in. I am worried about dropping an old piece of gasket into the turbo.

Thanks for the great write up.


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## jhoneyman

I would be more worried about stripping the 3 bolts.
I attempted this job last week and failed. Had to put everything back together along with 2 stripped bolts and one new one (no way was I putting the old back on)

Only way now seems to be to weld a bolt on those stripped ones


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## Dave_C

How many hours do you think is reasonable on the gasket replacement?


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## delta16

If it goes well 1 and half hours, if it goes bad "like mine" 6 hours lol, so glad I got rid of the TT it was a money bin


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## Brad_192

Hi guys. Just joined for a bit of information if anyone could help me. I picked up a 2002 225 last Tuesday and love it. After around 100miles I noticed the turbo didn't kick in too well and followed with a slight almost screech sound, slowed down, boosted again fine. Again 100miles later it did the same thing but was coming in and out of boost every say 500revs. It has now completely stopped working however I can still hear the whistle from the turbo just no actual boost at all. I removed the air mass meter this morning epc light was on for some reason also, drove around the block, boosted in first then completely went again. If anyone could show me where to check for leaks or anything before I take it back to the garage tomorrow under warranty. Thankyou. Not sure how to work this forum really haha.


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## __Dom__

Just an FYI...I had my manifold gasket replaced last week. It must have been on its way out for a long time, I'm guessing a good year or so - I couldn't smell fumes but the engine was sounding pretty awful. The garage (CRG in Cambridge) advised it could have been a cracked manifold or turbo (£££££'s) but looking at this thread gave me hope.
It took them about 2.5 hours labour, new gasket and three bolts. I was billed about £225 and relieved.
My TT like a different car - a lot quieter and seems far more responsive on the throttle. I've had it for 6 years and counting, 80,000 miles (half done by me) and I'm hoping to do at least another 40,000!


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## F0X1E

I had a new gasket and longer bolts fitted to mine a few weeks ago by Deutsche Mark near Doncaster at the princely sum of £58.07.
The car was ready within 90 minutes.


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## __Dom__

That's good for you. Have you noticed any improvement in your throttle response?


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## Dave_C

Thanks for this post...had the gasket replaced today all tractor noises and screeching gone.


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## gibtheo

Anyone done this recently?

I had a go and everything was going well until I got to removing the 3 inverse torx bolts. Cannot shift them, and two are a bit rounded now. Argh!

I've read through the other posts here but just wondered if anyone had any suggestions, I thought about buying the bolt grip nut remover kit.... grrrrr.......

Cheers


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## Yashin

Worst job I have encountered on the TT, you have my sympathy.

Don't waste money on nut removal tools, they don't work - I've tried several different types. Heating them up wont work either (imagine how hot they have been getting already in your exhaust manifold, reason why they are stuck so much in the first place). Some success posted where they have had bolts welded to the old nuts.

I had one stuck - cost me over £400 in the end at the TT shop (dropping subframe and attacking from below, took them all weekend)

The difference to sound and performance when completed made it worth it though.


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## gibtheo

Thanks for the reply. I was dubious about the nut removal tools, not heard anything good about them but I'm not sure what to do now. I don't know how to weld and don't have the kit! I guess I'll have to live with the noise for a while or take it to a garage.

Bloody hell!


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## Yashin

Take it to a garage and get a quote!!!! If its less than £300 snap their hand off.

I've done jobs on the TT that most people will balk at, but nothing has caused me to admit defeat and take it to a garage except the dreaded stuck turbo to manifold first gen bolts.


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## gibtheo

Haha! Will probably put it back together this weekend and ring around for a quote.

Thanks for the advice.

Unless there's anyone on here from Leeds area that could help me out for a bit of cash?


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## jhoneyman

I have been there myself.. Worst job ever really as access is limited.
VAG garage job indeed.


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## gibtheo

Well, after a week or so of trying different tools and methods....... I've given up!

I've put the car back together tonight and I guess I'll have to try and find a local garage to get those bloody bolts off. I've done a great job of rounding them off now too.


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## gibtheo

Update for anyone interested....

Took it to a welder and car breaker, stripped it and he tried to weld nuts on to the existing bolts, no joy. The weld wouldn't take or something. Called 3 local garages, 2 said they won't do the job if the bolts are stripped, £800 quote from another garage.

I literally don't know what to do with the thing now! Freaking nightmare. Can anyone recommend trying to drill the bolts out, and how exactly you do that?!!!


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## stuevans

I would try to see if you have an engineering (ideally automotive engineering) business locally. The sort that would work on commercial stuff as well - normally bearing replacements on shafts etc. My experience is that they will be used to this kind of task - worse case they'll bore it out and re thread.


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## jhoneyman

Where are you based ?
I had this issue and my local VAG independent removed them and replaced within 2 hours.


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## gibtheo

I'm in Leeds. Pudsey to be exact. Thanks for the advice guys, engineering company might be a good shout. This is turning into a nightmare!


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## Matthomas24

This was a job I tackled at the end of last year, exactly the same issues as you but didn't try the welding bolts etc. I used a local automotive engineering company in the end and it took them a couple of hours to sort fully but well worth it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Yashin

Now you know why you had my sympathy 

Definitely go down the route suggested.


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## BadNun

You Sir,are awesome.

Thank you very much for your great guide. I would very much like to bake you a cake.

Rebecca.


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## Becci_evans

Does anyone know how to get a rounded bolt out as it is in fact a 14 not 16 inverted torx


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## macadamy

I am half way through doing this job. I noticed in the picture there are no washers on the bolts. Is this correct? As I have I normal bolt no washer and two hex bolts with washers?

Thanks

Matt


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## jhoneyman

washers will be stuck on the manifold.


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## StuartDB

I drilled my rounded one off but was removing the head anyway at the same time.


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## andrem

Hi all,

Great DIY guide! I haven't done it my self but I brought mine to the workshop. But now it has been replaced for the 3rd time and 4th is coming up next week... the gasket keeps getting blown out, no clue why and my mechanic also doesn't understand. Does anyone has the same issue? Or some advise how to resolve?

Hope you can help me out!

Cheers,
André


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## Ellied02

Hi Andre,

I've also done mine for the 3rd time. When I took it apart for the first time the gasket was in two parts, so I was excited to see it fixed with a new gasket in place. After putting it all back together again, I was disappointed when it was blowing again right from first start-up. Pulled it apart again and discovered the new gasket was not a perfect copy (non-VAG), so the holes were not quite aligned and it was distorting. Put it back together again while a new gasket was on order. But then, yet again, it's blowing with the genuine gasket in place. I can feel it with my hand coming out of the join at one particular point.

I'm now taking it to an indy garage to see if they have better luck than me, but I'm prepared to be told that either the turbo has a hot side crack, the manifold is cracked - or both!!! Ouch!

Is yours in a standard state of tune?

Cheers,
Mark


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## NickA555

I'm thinking of doing this job on my 06 roadster in the coming weeks. A question for you guys that have already done the work, did you order three new bolts as well as the gasket or just the gasket?

Thanks


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## jhoneyman

NickA555 said:


> I'm thinking of doing this job on my 06 roadster in the coming weeks. A question for you guys that have already done the work, did you order three new bolts as well as the gasket or just the gasket?
> 
> Thanks


you will be lucky to come away with 3 reusable bolts.
most get 2 out and strip/struggle with the 3rd.
order 3 new and will save you pain - not cheap though.
also the 3 new bolts are upgraded part numbers with larger heads...


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## NickA555

jhoneyman said:


> NickA555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of doing this job on my 06 roadster in the coming weeks. A question for you guys that have already done the work, did you order three new bolts as well as the gasket or just the gasket?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> you will be lucky to come away with 3 reusable bolts.
> most get 2 out and strip/struggle with the 3rd.
> order 3 new and will save you pain - not cheap though.
> also the 3 new bolts are upgraded part numbers with larger heads...
Click to expand...

Thanks mate. Just ordered 3 new bolts/washers and the gasket!


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## Ellied02

I was lucky(?) and managed to get all three bolts out without a problem (I used a breaker bar - couldn't justify the cost of an impact wrench). I think the key (and it's worthing taking this advice anyway) is to liberally coat the bolts with PB blaster at least a day before, give them a hearty tap with a centre punch and hammer a few times over the preceding day, and be sure to remove the bracket that supports the charge pipe (4 torx headed bolts). If you don't do this last stage you can't get your socket straight on the bolt nearest the cylinder head and you therefore run the risk of rounding it off.


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## macadamy

Well I did this job at the weekend and have driven the car each day since.
What a difference. I have lost an awful noise that i thought my turbo was about to explode.
That made me back off the throttle.
Now I can hear the turbo lightly whistle now as it spools, so I give it a bit more.


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## NickA555

I had a look at my engine and I don't have the charge pipe. I can only assume that's fitted to the 225?

My roadster is the 160bhp version. Is there any difference to the procedure?

Thanks


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## powercut68

Jonny
You said you sheared the bolt in the turbo. How did you get that out? Im in that same position
Thx Phil


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## TTKen

I discovered this post and has at last answered why i thought my car sounded like an air cooled vdub at times. I started up from cold and put my hand down the back between manifold and turbo sure enough i can feel hot air puffing out.

Now i tried today to remove the 90degree elbow, but got stuck, it seemed the heat shield poppers were fine on the bend but couldn't feel the base where to unpop them there, the heat shield sleeve seemed very tight like it was over jubilee clip on turbo so couldn't remove either. Any help or pointers here please.


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## HOGG

Pull the poppers hard. Don't be afraid to rip that shit off









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## TTKen

Thanks Hogg! So does the elbow just pull off then or fasten via jubilee clip onto that collar?


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## HOGG

Deffo a jub clip at both ends

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## StuartDB

As Hogg said, get rid of the heat shield fabric, if you are planning on removing the bolts the replace a gasket Hogg wrote some advice. It make much easier if the engine is hot so it might be worth trying to get some lubricant down and around with the bolts then get the right tools and sockets, extra rounded bolt removal tools. Extension bars extra maybe even remove tbe cross member ants any plastic trim.

Get the engine hot (needs to be on the road to generate boost) then work as quick as possible to remove the charge pipe and try to undo those nasty bolts. My teeth are hurting thinking about the amount of straining it takes. I have had to drill off one both times.

Best of luck


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## TTKen

THanks to both of you for advice here, most appreciated as usual, will post back my findings once gasket arrives, im not weakling if anything im afraid ill snap a head off, i have purchased some decent inversed torx sockets. Fingers crossed.


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## StuartDB

I doubt you would snap one. The e14 / e16 sockets tend to ride up the head then round it off, although everyone says heat is the answer.


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## TTKen

Ok this was my first job tonight, bolts came out with 'crack' but all ok. Removed old gasket which looked fucked, wired brushed bolts on pillar drill coated threads and shoulders with copper slip and refitted fking tight.
But wait a min im sure i can still hear blowing at front  going to check in the morning. Heres some pics of gaskets and bolts. I agree though theres a good chance bolt heads could be rounded easy, well worth including bolts as part of this job along with gasket at same time.
Look at the state of the old gasket.


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## silkman

@andrem and others

Have the same problem myself. Keep replacing the head gasket with OEM and new bolts but it keeps whistling after a while. Reason is (apart form cracks in mani or turbo) that probably the turbo and/or manifold are not flat where they mount with other and my mechanic didn't check for flatness when he had everything apart, now its an engine out or subframe out job :x

On advice of an exhaust shop, theres a red gasket paste (500C) that may help, you should put some on both sides of the new gasket. My mechanic says that theres no gasket paste that can withstand 900C which is the turbo operating temperature...


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## HOGG

Should never use gasket paste on a turbo gasket

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## totallyfoxed

THANK YOU

Just saved us by helping to identify the bolts.

THey are now with studs/inserts.* Updated code is - 06A145540K *


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## silkman

Bought a new gasket and new bolts (but not washers as they were 11eur each) from Audi today to try fitting in the weekend.

Digged up my old manifold to verify in which holes the gasket fits, it only fits one way like this: 
The letters in the gasket go towards the bottom of the car (the gasket won't align if you put it upside down)









See anything strange? The new gasket appears to be cracked! And thank God I opened the baggie today and not on the weekend :roll:


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## Baalthazaar

Don't forget your TIG welder.....


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## TheBlueStingray

silkman said:


> Bought a new gasket and new bolts (but not washers as they were 11eur each) from Audi today to try fitting in the weekend.
> 
> Digged up my old manifold to verify in which holes the gasket fits, it only fits one way like this:
> The letters in the gasket go towards the bottom of the car (the gasket won't align if you put it upside down)


What did you end up replacing your old exhaust manifold with? Mine has a small crack that I'm considering to just weld, but on the other hand it's not a job I would like to do again any time soon if it doesn't hold...

/Dennis


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## silkman

TheBlueStingray said:


> What did you end up replacing your old exhaust manifold with? Mine has a small crack that I'm considering to just weld, but on the other hand it's not a job I would like to do again any time soon if it doesn't hold...
> 
> /Dennis


Found an OEM one from a turbo repair shop, together with a turbo hot side, both were cracked. They are expensive new, 400ish. Apparently its difficult to weld it back once cracked due to very high temps (it will crack again)

Went to Audi to pick up the replacement gasket today, guess what, the new one also has a slight crack at exactly the same spot...


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## silkman

Congratulations, I played myself.

Couldn't have gone worse, one bolt went out, one snapped in the middle and the last one close to engine now has a stripped head [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Now it's a turbo out job.

And to think I didn't need to remove them, because the noise I was hearing was from the pink turbo pipe; the bottom jubilee was completely undone. But I thought since I bought the kit I might as well replace the bolts and gasket..


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## StuartDB

Well if you need any guidance on removing a turbo from a TT I have done it about 8 times now it takes about 30 minutes.

Remove driver wheel
Drop coolant
Drop oil
Undo sump turbo drain 5mm x2
Undo support turbo drain 6mm x1
Undo coolant feed support 5mm x2
Undo coolant return 8mm keep washers
Remove TIP and air filter/box/heat shield
Remove charge pipe
Remove EGT 17mm
Remove manifold to hot side x3
Remove downpipe to turbo from above nearest firewall and to from below nearest head
Move turbo out slightly to remove coolant and oil feed keep washers
Wiggle turbo out from above, returning to underneath to help through coolant return and oil return - repeat x3
Drag turbo out over gear box


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## Baalthazaar

I feel your pain, has to be one of the worst jobs to do on this car.
If its any consolation, I think you would have had to replace those bolts sooner or later anyway, they don't look like oem bolts, I'm certain they were always external torx, and certainly the Audi replacements are torx but with a taller head, so Allen bolts were always going to give you problems after heat soak and tempering, lucky to get one out I reckon.... 

I'd follow Stuart's guide if I were you with the exception that you are going to have to drill that last bolt head off.....


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## StuartDB

Thinking about trying to undo those reverse torque bolts hurts my teeth. Having the Chinafold manifold is the best.


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## Baalthazaar

StuartDB said:


> Thinking about trying to undo those reverse torque bolts hurts my teeth. Having the Chinafold manifold is the best.


True Stuart but if you have a close look at the photo those are Allen bolts, so they have been replaced at some time with out of spec bolts, at least the Audi new ones are the correct grade of stainless to stand up to the heat, god knows what those were..... :?


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## silkman

Baalthazaar said:


> True Stuart but if you have a close look at the photo those are Allen bolts, so they have been replaced at some time with out of spec bolts, at least the Audi new ones are the correct grade of stainless to stand up to the heat, god knows what those were..... :?


Exactly. Apparently they were new but no idea where my mech got them from.

As I said, the whole calamity was my fault alone because I didn't need to touch the manifold; the red turbo pipe was undone and that was the source of my massive boost leak.

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT.


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