# Mk1 Audi TT Quattro. Clutch & DMF replacement step by step.



## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

I recently undertook the task of changing the clutch and dual mass flywheel on my 2002 Audi TT 225. I didn't consider a how-to at the time but a few people have asked. I unfortunately didn't take many pictures.

I'm hoping to add more relevant pictures to this, but for now its just a detailed step by step with a select few added.
I will try to be as descriptive and methodical as I can, if I have missed anything out please let me know. If you have any relevant pictures you want to donate for this how-to I will add them in and give you credit for them.

Dont hesitate to PM me if you need any futher help.

Firstly don't underestimate this job, it is a big one! the pros don't charge £600+ in labour for nothing.

95% of it can easily be done solo, but a mate for company and help is recommended.

Information and advice is believed to be correct and given in good faith for member's benefit. Always independently verify that information is correct before relying on it. The author or the TT Forum cannot be held responsible for any loss, injury or damage caused by following any advice given.

Part 1. TOOLS.

2 trolley jacks
2 strong axle stands
A good socket set 8mm-22mm is ideal. 
Flexi joint
Torque wrench 
A good combination spanner set.
A good breaker bar
Needle nose pliers
Normal pliers
M10 spline
M12 spline
10mm multipoint socket (if your socket set is 6 sided)
A Torx set
18mm deep socket or 12mm spark plug key (same thing) 
10mm hex socket 
Flat bladed screwdriver
Good 21mm 6 sided socket (for breaking sub frame bolts)
Plus Gas or equivalent penetrating oil.
An assortment of extension bars. 
Rubber mallet
A magnetic pickup tool
Clutch alignment tool.
A small puller, wiper puller is ideal.
Small wire brush
A pillow to kneel on, old knees take a beating. :wink: 
Plenty of rags and some degreaser.
A packet of long cable ties
Strong nylon rope, 2 or 3 metres is more than enough.
Sturdy gloves.

SPECIAL TOOLS

M16 security spline (for removing gearbox drain and fill plugs)
14" long 1/4 inch extension bar with a 6mm hex socket. (For awkward bolt in transfer box) I made one by joining 2 extensions together.

PARTS

clutch kit with slave cylinder and DMF 
DMF stretch bolts
3ltr of gearbox oil (VAG spec) 
Gearbox/transfer box oil seals (optional but recommended) (get from dealership)
Gearbox drain plug crush washers (dealership)

PART 2. Start at the top.... make sure the car is in neutral.

1 Remove battery cover and engine cover. 
2 Disconnect and remove battery. 13mm bolt holds clip on base in place
3 Undo maf sensor multi plug and loosen jubilee clip on turbo intake pipe. 
4 Undo the four 10mm bolts securing the air box and battery case. 








5 Unclip battery fuse box and unclip flap at rear and push fuse box to the side. Then lift out battery box and air box.
6 Remove battery tray, four Torx bolts. These can be seized solid, so spray with release oil and leave for a few minutes. 
7 Unclip gear linkage, carefully pry the clips off, these can be reattached to save losing them. 








8 Unbolt the gear link bracket, three 13mm nuts at the rear, one then cable-tie the gear link cables up out the way.








9 Remove the gear selector, the small puller will come in handy as they can be tight to come off, do not try to wiggle it off!
10 Undo multi-plugs on the starter motor and one below it on the gearbox, 
11 Undo live feed to starter motor. 
12 Undo multi plug on the rear of the gearbox, it is covered with a heat shield wrap. You need to carefully pull it back to expose the plug.








13 Undo earth on top of gearbox.
14 Undo plastic loom clamp in top of starter motor and pull it off, it can be stiff.
15 Undo top starter bolt and remove one gearbox to engine bolt. (I leave the one near turbo with long extension until last)
16 Unclip the slave cylinder hard pipe, tape up the end to prevent clutch fluid dripping off, tie it higher than the brake fluid reservoir to prevent it running out. Be carefull not to lose the small o-ring inside it.









That's you on the top for now, take a small break.

Part 3 under the car.

1 Jack the car up and place axle standes under it, I placed them on the chassis rails behind the sub frame, they seemed strong enough about 3 inches from the end of them. Make sure the car is high enough to be able to slide the gearbox out on a jack.








2 Remove the wheels.
3 Mark and undo the three bolts holding the bottom ball joint on. They might need a squirt of liquid wrench. A wire brush to clean the rust off them will let the 16mm socket sit better on them. 
(The bolts normally leave a nice impression that you can use as a guide to reposition them)








4 Carefully knock the bolts loose with the rubber mallet, if they are solid screw the nuts back to protect the threads and give them a whack with a hammer.
5 Remove the top bolt for the drop links, you will need to use a 17mm spanner on the opposite side of the bolt to stop it spinning.
6 Partly undo the passenger wheel arch liner and push/fold it back behind the hub.
7 Undo the headlight level sensor - it's the small drop link from chassis to the wishbone in the passenger side arch.
8 Under the car remove the splash tray, lots of T25 Torx to get it off, remove the plastic guard in the passenger wheel arch.
9 Undo the drive shafts. M10 spline, you can either do these with a long (500mm) extension bar to the side from the arch or do it from under the car. I find it easier with the long extension. A thin screwdriver inserted into the brake disc vent next to the caliper will lock the driveshaft and prevent it spinning. Make sure you seat the spline well in the bolt head, a tap with a hammer on the end of the extension will drive it in properly. you don't want to strip these! 








10 Pull the shaft out carefully you can support these up a few inches to prevent damage to the gators, later tie them up to the steering rack. A lot of people remove the shafts, but there's really no need.
11 Undo the two bottom bolts on the dog bone mount, no need to touch the 13mm stretch bolts to the sub frame.
12 Undo tge two downpipe mount bolts on the top of the rear of the sub frame.
13 Undo the four power steering bolts.
14 Undo the brackets holding on the two power steering hard pipes - two on the front on the intercooler pipe, one on the side of the gearbox. There is an akward bolt on the top passenger side of the sub frame. Leave this for now, or get it with an extension and a flexi joint from the top of the engine bay.
15 Undo the two large (21mm) rear sub frame bolts, these are TIGHT. Use a breaker bar and the 6 sided socket to prevent them rounding off.
16 Support the sub frame on a jack. 
17 Undo the two front sub frame bolts and carefully lower the jack three inches. The sub frame should drop slightly.
17 If you didn't get that awkward power steering pipe bolt you can now access it from the passenger side arch with a 13mm ring spanner.
18 Lower the sub frame down and pull it out.
19 Undo the three bolts holding the prop shaft on - three 10mm multipoint bolts. 
20 **** EXTRA CARE REQUIRED**** slide the prop shaft back it has a rubber oil seal on it, be super careful not to damage this as you will require a new prop shaft if you do!!! Make sure its completely clear of the transfer box before you let it sag any.
21 Jam a wedge between the shaft and the exhaust to support the prop shaft.
22 Push the power steering "snakey" hose up out of the way. And fold the power steering cooling pipe back away from your working area. They both have rubber flex sections so can be manipulated fairly safely but be careful and if in doubt just disconnect them and you can change the fluid when refilling.
23 Remove the lower starter motor bolt. And pull the starter out.

Part 4. removing the transfer box.

NOTE The transfer box has five bolts holding it in place to the gearbox Plus several on a bracket to the block.

1 Remove the aluminium heat shield that protects the drivers side gator from the downpipe. Remove three bolts on the side top of the transfer box. You will need that long extension bar again. Remove all the bolts to the block and transfer box to remove the metal bracket.
2 remove the bottom two bolts 8mm hex socket (easy). 








3 ***EXTRA CARE REQUIRED*** remove the top two bolts 8mm hex socket (difficult) these are awkward, I found the best way was using a long 3/8th extension and sitting it on top of the transfer box - then going up top and locating it on the bolt by hand by reaching down past the turbo. You can also just feel about from under till you get the hex socket in place. Give it a tap to seat it correctly. Stripping these would mean you would have to remove the gearbox with it intact making it VERY heavy indeed.








4 *specialist tool* drain the gear oil out the gearbox using the lower drain plug.
5 *Specialist tool* you need a long (14") 1/4" extension with a 6mm hex bit on the end. The final bolt is located inside the transfer box and is accessible through where the driveshaft attaches. Shine a torch in and have a look at what you need to find. Make sure the hex bit is seated correctly, it is quite a tight little bolt and required quite some force to crack it, be careful removing it so it doesn't drop inside the transfer box. If it does don't panic you can fish it out with a pickup tool. **** when re installing this bolt be sure the hex bit easily parts with the bolt - you don't want it stuck sticking out of the bolt inside the box. If necessary glue the tool together. 

















6 Separate the transfer box, get ready to catch any oil that is left in it, this is another awkward part, the transfer box catches on the block, it can be a pig to get it off. I used a small pry bar to leaver it past the rib on the block it catches on, be patient it will come past it.

Part 5. separating the transmission.

1 Place two jacks under both the gearbox and the engine oil sump, be mindful of the oil level sensor on the sump. Be sure and place a protective block between the jack and the sump. 








2 Remove the lower bolts on the gearbox to the sump. One is next to where the transfer box was which inserts in the opposite direction.
3 Make sure the jacks are supporting both the gearbox and sump. 
4 Carefully wrap the rope round the gearbox by making a small loop at one end and feeding the rope round the box and through the loop, like a lasso. Tie the rope round the strut brace.
5 Remove the engine mount on the gearbox, all that should be holding the box on now is that one bolt we left on at the start.
6 Slowly lower the engine and gearbox down ****DO NOT LET THE ENGINE POP OUT OF THE OPOSITE MOUNT**** it can drop a good six inches. 
****MINIMUM TWO PEOPLE REQUIRED****
7 Take the slack of the weight of the gearbox with the jack and remove the top bolt (18mm deep socket). 
8 Wrap the rope round the strut brace a few times and seperate the box from the engine by sliding it straight off then down. Be carefull that the spigot shaft is clear before lowering the box.
9 slide the box out and breath a sigh of relief.

Part 6, replacing the clutch and DMF

1 Remove the pressure plate Torx bolts (90 degree steps all bolts in sequence until free - same procedure on refitting to avoid distortion of the pressure plate). Be careful as it will drop and is heavy.
2 Put a 19mm multipoint socket on the breaker bar and place it on the lower crank pulley bolt. Tie the bar onto the wheel hub. This will effectively lock the DMF. Alternatively a special tool or fabricated block of metal bolted to the crank case can wedge into the starter ring gear.
3 Undo the six DMF bolts. The DMF won't drop off - you will need to gently pry it off, be careful as it is a heavy old lump of metal. 
4 Undo the old slave cylinder from inside the transmission. 
5 Give it a good clean with brake cleaner and degreaser.
6 Carefully pry out the spigot oil seal if you are replacing it.
7 Pop the new seal in. Push it evenly into place.
8 Fit the new slave cylinder.
9 Fit the new DMF, tightening the bolts clockwise to the proper torque specification.
10 Fit the clutch to the pressure plate using the clutch alignment tool. Make sure its accurately aligned and cantered. 
11 Install the new clutch and tighten the pressure plate bolts to torque specifications.
12 Replace all the seals on the transfer box if you bought them.
13 Have a well deserved beer.

Part 7. Reassembly.

As Haynes says "refitting is the reversal of removal" so I wont go into depth but I will go over the pitfalls I encountered zipping it all back up.

Bleed the clutch as soon as the gearbox is in place, this way work will be minimal if the new slave is faulty.

Make sure the friction plate moves freely on the splines of the gearbox input shaft. Clean off any rust with a wire brush. Apply a very thin layer of high temperature grease, removing any excess.

Make sure "Getriebeseite" or "Getr.-Seite" writing on friction plate (short end of plate hub) points towards pressure plate.

Finger tighten pressure plate bolts until they make contact and then in 90 degree steps, all bolts in sequence and then to torque specification accordingly to avoid distortion of the pressure plate.

Firstly.. refitting the bell housing. I did this with two people - myself and a mate. He balanced the gearbox on the jack. And I stood over the engine balancing it. There's no easy way to do this. Just slowly lift it until its in line and push it onto the engine. I had two ropes on it. One wound three times over the strut brace and one in a loop round the gearbox that I could grab as a handle.

Three people would be ideal and make it very easy indeed.

Give the person on the bottom operating the jacks one of the lower gearbox to sump bolts and have one at the top ready for the bolt near the turbo that had the long m10 extension on it. Get them in finger tight when the box locates onto the locating dowels. Keep the rope wound round the strut brace tight in case the jack slips.
Don't wind the rope round your fingers, if it slips it will be painful.

Once you have a few bolts in tight, jack it up and get the engine mount in place... you can now remove the jacks.

Transfer box... this pig again. It will again catch on the block. Replace the three O-rings for sealing transfer box to transmission prior to fitting and lubricate with oil. Get it as far in as it goes then get the four main bolts in place. Tighten them slowly in a clockwise order till the box jumps over the ridge on the block. Make sure splines mate properly whilst doing this. Do not force engagement - it should be a sliding fit - otherwise mounting eyelets may break off.

Rear power steering cooling pipe: Fit it at the banjo and reservoir before trying to attach it to the sub frame - it fits easier this way.

Bleeding the clutch.

The clutch shares a reservoir with the brake system.

****DO NOT ALLOW THE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR TO DROP LOW**** if you get air in the brake master cylinder you will need full VAG-COM to cycle the ABS pump to bleed it.

1 Top up fluid in the reservoir.
2 Attach a clear hose to the bleed nipple and open it 1 to 2 turns. Leave until it weeps fluid. Close it.

It should now be 95% bled.

3 Get an assistant to press in the clutch pedal and hold. Open nipple to release air and close. The clutch pedal will probably stay on the floor. Pull, it back up and repeat until no more air escapes and good pressure can be felt.

PART 8

Torque specifications....

Engine to Transmission 
1. M12 Bolts - 65Nm 
2. M10 Bolts 40Nm

Bevel gear Transfer case to Transmission
1. 40Nm + 45 degree turn

Transmission Mount to Transmission support bracket
1: 85Nm

Transmission support bracket to transmission
1. 40Nm + 90 degree turn.

Transmission Mount to Chassis
1. 40Nm + 90 degree turn

Pressure Plate to Dual Mass Flywheel
1. 22Nm (M8), 20Nm (M7), 13Nm (M6)

Dual Mass Flywheel to crank shaft 
1. 85Nm

Release bearing to gearbox housing
1. 12Nm

Driveshaft bolts
1. 52Nm

Flange shaft to transmission 
1. 25Nm

Driveshaft heatshield to transmission
1. 25Nm

Pendulum support
1. 20Nm + 90degree turn (subframe)
2. 40Nm + 90degree turn (transmission)

Sub frame to chassis
1. 100Nm + 90 degree turn

Ball joint nuts to Track Control Arm
1. 75 Nm (clean out serrations on nut flange underside or replace)

Steering rack to sub frame
1. 20Nm + 90 degree turn

Thanks to...

Bluewater performance for pictures
Everyone on the TTF who advised and helped me to do the job.


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## nelmanners (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks Brian for your effort! It looks good mate.

Cheers
Werner


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

Top man, youre a gem


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Nice write up matey and well done 8)


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Not a good write up at all....

A GREAT ONE

Respect where it's due, well done.


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## spraggy117 (Jan 2, 2014)

Top job, convinced me to do mine myself now for sure!! how long did it approx take?


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

spraggy117 said:


> Top job, convinced me to do mine myself now for sure!! how long did it approx take?


Thanks for the kind words guys. 

Took me about 18 hours taking my time. Definitely allow a solid weekend of work.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Excellent guide Brian. Now added to the Mk1 Knowledge Base. Shows what you can do on your drive - well done!


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

John-H said:


> Excellent guide Brian. Now added to the Mk1 Knowledge Base. Shows what you can do on your drive - well done!


 [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## TheVarix (Apr 3, 2013)

Bookmarked for future reference. Thanks for taking the time to do this how-to. It's a great write up, Brian!
This is a job around the corner for a lot of us that are near the 100k miles mark (and with a remap)


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## Cornwall (Apr 8, 2013)

Well done Brian,

that's as good as any Haynes manual if not better.

Anyone with an modicum of ability can follow that and carry out the work based on that info and those photo's

thank you


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## JorgeTTCQ (May 7, 2002)

Great job! Thank you very much, bookmarked for future


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

JfC.. thats a great write up..(johns fried chicken, btw).

I changed a clutch n flywheel, cough, x years ago on a longtitudinally mounted audi engine solo.
Haynes said you needed 2.
Nowhere near as complex as this :roll: but I did have "Im not gonna die with a gearbox crushing my chest moment' 

Even with the write up  I dont think Id ever attempt this diy,now, mates or no mates.

The gearbox was changed on mine at around 70k..gearbox and haldex unit.
Hopefully they checked/replaced whatever needed doing in the clutch line , altho there are only receipts for box and haldex unit.

(nb; I confess the reason I checked this post was
a. first to second and second to third had allways seemed a lil notchy
b.After my recent scary oil pressure drop episode (blocked oil pickup filter) all gearchanges seem smooth n clean.
c.I thought maybe the clutch operated off engine oil (pause to let people climb back on their seats after falling off laughing),and good engine oil pressure all the time would improve the gearchange .. chuckle.

Seems not, must be just the placebo effect,or Im getting better at changing gears :lol:


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

wow that's a write up dude [smiley=dude.gif]

Sandy


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## drone (Sep 24, 2014)

I used this thread as a helpful guide. I don't want to rely on mates so I got a draper 53095 mobile transmission jack, really helpful.
Couple of points with the draper, there isn't any need to take off the transfer box, one thing I did additionally was take out the transfer box drain plug, which has a magnet. I cleaned this and collected up the oil which totalled 2.4 litres, including the gearbox drain-off. Allowing for a little still spread around the transmission, not far off the 2.7 litres required to fill the thing.
I had major problems removing the two bolts that hold the downpipe hanger to the subframe, I didn't want to break them so it was mucho winky-wanky getting the damn things out, best part of two hours. Incidentally, the drain plug itself was full of ground off metal, as I expected with 146k on the odometer.
I also made an engine bridge from two lengths of 4x2 gorilla glued together, then clamped with 4 off 10mm coach bolts. I then drilled for a screwed spindle (half of a set of spring compressors, adapted for the job, I lost the other half ages ago)
This makes the engine position independent of any other lifting devices. If I wasn't such a stubborn old git I would have bought one but this pulled the stunt just fine.
The big test will be to see if I can put it all back together on my own, I'm just waiting for the clutch and plate now as I had to wait to find what was in the bellhousing given you can't mix and match between makes.


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## westo3 (Jan 15, 2011)

Very impressive have bookmarked for future ref. Great job!


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## CPerdomo (Mar 9, 2016)

BRIAN,

I've been told that once the clutch is changed a tool has to be used inside the cabin to align the transmission shifter?
My 03 TT 6speed started having problems engaging first gear and reverse. I don't think is the clutch because the car pulls well once the gear is in. A VW mechanic mentioned that tool maybe being the reason I have that problem.
Now, in order to put 1st gear, I have to push the stick in the same way reverse has to be done. In addition, now reverse does not engage at all.
Any comments?

Thank you in advance.
[smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Carlos


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

CPerdomo said:


> BRIAN,
> 
> I've been told that once the clutch is changed a tool has to be used inside the cabin to align the transmission shifter?
> My 03 TT 6speed started having problems engaging first gear and reverse. I don't think is the clutch because the car pulls well once the gear is in. A VW mechanic mentioned that tool maybe being the reason I have that problem.
> ...







Use a 5mm/6mm allen key instead - can't remember which one I used.


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

Epic job on the drive way!

Respect to OP for doing it. 8)

Wouldn't find me dropping boxes without a ramp! :lol:


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Almost makes it look like I could do it


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

TT Tom TT said:


> CPerdomo said:
> 
> 
> > BRIAN,
> ...


Changed mine twice and not needed to do any adjustment on the selector.


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## Tradman (May 6, 2018)

Thanks Brian for the great explanation. I'm about to do this job on the weekend and in part of my prep I'll need to get some parts besides the clutch, like the tfc o rings. I'd like to know if anyone has any pics of these?
Do I need to replace the bolts on the engine mount?
Do I need to replace the bolts on the dog bone mount?
Do I need to replace the bolts on the sub frame?

Thanks

Tim


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Sub frame bolts are supposed to be stretch bolts with an angle tighten spec so should be replaced according to Audi.

The engine mount console to chassis bolts definitely stretch and will likely break if you attempt to re-use.

The larger console to engine bracket bolts don't stretch and if you do them to one Audi spec (60Nm+90°) you risk stripping the aluminium threads so do them to the other 80Nm with no angle tighten Audi spec for the same thing on the other side. See Knowledge Base article.


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