# Any tips replacing voltage regulator with PICS



## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Looking for a how to... Any help?


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Anyone?


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

You only gave it half hour before asking again give us a chance fella.

Fairly easy to do, from memory you take off the cover first which is 2 or 3 screws then you can remove the regulator the only hard screw to get to on that is at the bottom and is right under a large electrical wire. Took me about an hour to get it off and about 15 mins to put it back.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Sorry for being impatient... Can you provide images? Its the part facing the battery right? I can't get the cover surrounding the dipstick as one of the screws are buggered, if you can help with pictured that would be great and i guess helpful to future problems for us tt owners


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Hi uploaded some picture so you guys can help me









Here's a close up... This is where the voltage regulator is right?


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

It's so hard just to see any screws... I'm no mechanic so need all the help I can get


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Is that black bolt the first screw to undo?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi shoosting, Have had a look for a "HowTo" but can't find one, there is one somewhere on Forum.
Think you may have to remove the cover in front of the dipstick for better access & disconnect the battery Negative terminal if you haven't already. You will probably break the dipstick tube, they become quite brittle over the years...Best of luck.
Hoggy.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Hoggy said:


> Hi shoosting, Have had a look for a "HowTo" but can't find one, there is one somewhere on Forum.
> Think you may have to remove the cover in front of the dipstick for better access & disconnect the battery Negative terminal if you haven't already. You will probably break the dipstick tube, they become quite brittle over the years...Best of luck.
> Hoggy.


Can't take the cover off around the dipstick as one of the screws heads too damaged to grip, is there any other way around it?

Trying to replace this is gonna kill me


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Shoosting, Apparently easier to remove the cover in front of dipstick by removing the bolts that secure it to the engine block. Some have broken the whole thing off & replaced with a new one. I've never done it though.
Hoggy.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Shoosting, Apparently easier to remove the cover in front of dipstick by removing the bolts that secure it to the engine block. Some have broken the whole thing off & replaced with a new one. I've never done it though.
> Hoggy.


The whole part connected by the allen key shaped bolts?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Shoosting, Yes the piece in front of dipstick, usually corrodes up solid because of the heat etc.You could try drilling the bolts out.
Hoggy.


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## ian222 (May 4, 2007)

You will need to get the cover near the dipstick off you wont do it without getting that off. Drilling out as said or breaking it all is the only way then if you cant undo the bolts.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

ian222 said:


> You will need to get the cover near the dipstick off you wont do it without getting that off. Drilling out as said or breaking it all is the only way then if you cant undo the bolts.


So taking just the op cover of is no good as shown in the first pic, where there is two holes for the screws? The whole part must come of which is bolted on using to silver bolts and must be unscrewed using an allen key?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

shoosting said:


> Is that black bolt the first screw to undo?


NO... disconnect the battery first or there may be lots of sparks as you undo that 13mm bolt and the other end of your tool touches some metal!

Your next picture will be a tool welded from the alternator to the manifold!

Also review the new part to see where the screw holes are! , virtually all are out of sight as you undo them!


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Wak said:


> shoosting said:
> 
> 
> > Is that black bolt the first screw to undo?
> ...


Hi Wak, i must come and see you again to rectify the other bits and pieces that needed doing. (Soon i hope, in the nxt couple of months)

My battery is dead anyway but have disconnected the negative terminal as hoggy said 

Do you have a little step by step guide as you are the TT man after all :roll:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

shoosting said:


> Hi Wak, i must come and see you again to rectify the other bits and pieces that needed doing. (Soon i hope, in the nxt couple of months)
> 
> My battery is dead anyway but have disconnected the negative terminal as hoggy said
> 
> Do you have a little step by step guide as you are the TT man after all :roll:


Sorry no guide, its straight forwards, but fiddly because you are doing it in Situ, if you have an old white bath towel you can hide from the missus, stuff it down in the bay under the alternator then if anything drops it'll land softly and not bounce into oblivion.

nip down to a pound shop and see if they have a white or light colour beach towel.

Little hand mirror will help but really best to review the new part for the main holes, I think there is a cover to undo before you get to regulator.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Wak said:


> shoosting said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Wak, i must come and see you again to rectify the other bits and pieces that needed doing. (Soon i hope, in the nxt couple of months)
> ...


Ok thanks for the tip. Should i def take the Whole cover around the dipstick off? And is there any tips for doing that?


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Hi guys,

Managed to get the cover around the dipstick of so can access the alternator... However how big is the bolt holding the cover, I've tried both 13mm and 14mm and it seems to be too small. Also must I take the bolt of which is covered by the black thing?

Here's an image










The bolt on the right side is what im referring too.

Will do a how to once I finish for you guys


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## vin225 (Mar 27, 2006)

Any updates on this as i have to do mine :roll:


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Alright guys... This is a very tricky task but doable as long as you have the tools, I had to make 2-3 stops at the shops just for the tools...

Step by step guide;

1. Disconnect the battery, negative side

2. You must take the engine covers of especially the ones around the edge for better access

3. You must remove the engine cover around the yellow dipstick tube









There are screws on the top and two Allen key screws under that, which must be removed. Once the piece is loose, it is attached to the yellow dipstick through a slot and is also connected to a tube to the left, so be very careful when you pull it off the dipstick. Leave the part connected to the tube and you can lift it and place it upright on the left. There us a connect in-between that must be removed too, keep a note of it

Should now look like this:










4. Here's a close up of the alternator 









You must remove the plug at the top and first tackle the screw right at the bottom. It's pretty hidden so feel for where it is. I had to use a special tool though










Once that is removed u can take the black bolt cover of and tackle the two bolts behind it. The bolt to the right is bigger and I think it's around 15/16mm

5. You should be able to take the cover of now, but I found it trapped at the bottom, a little force was enough to move it lower or you maybe able to take it off fully (I didn't)

6. The voltage regulator is simply screwed on so undo the screws and it should come apart easy. There maybe a screw or two that hold the cover on, but I can't remember.

7. Replace the voltage regulator and reverse the process to pit everything back on. You will prob need to jump start the car but make sure you let the battery charge from the doner car for 5-10 mins before trying to switch your Tt back on

I think that's it so good luck guys


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Shoosting, Well done, took a while you got there in the end. Please tell me the alternator is now charging O.K.
Hoggy.


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

Hoggy said:


> Hi Shoosting, Well done, took a while you got there in the end. Please tell me the alternator is now charging O.K.
> Hoggy.


Yep, everything is perfect now


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

Good result. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## SiGainey (Sep 18, 2006)

Where did you buy the regulator from?


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## shoosting (Jun 3, 2011)

It's from Audi, £40 exchanging ur old one


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## vin225 (Mar 27, 2006)

Good write up.

I did mine last night, lots of swearing and cut knuckles :lol:

Got my part from TPS.


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## liffy99 (Feb 28, 2007)

How do you tell whether the problem is the alternator or regulator ?


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Can think of 3 things that may fail...

1st and most frequent it seems is the voltage regulator, which either fails internally or it's brushes get worn. Usual indicator is charge undervoltage. Measured at battery terminals - anything less than 13V may suggest regulator is gone or on it's way.

2nd, these alternators have a freewheel pulley, that is common to fail too, but it usually gets stuck, so people may not even know it has failed. If it has stuck, checking can only be done with the v-belt removed, rotating it back and forth. If freewheel pulley slips, you may get battery indicator on a dash, or engine splutters when it slips. When it slips completely, alternator won't produce any current. May be not hard to see, that alternator rotor is stationary while engine is running

3rd very uncommon, rotor brush surface gets worn, so that there is either no contact material left, or brushes can't reach it. This cannot be fixed and new alternator is required. Same symptoms as with slipping pulley - intermittent behavior.

Best regards


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

Thanks to this old guide I managed to change my reg/rec, but really struggled with the botton screw. So my addition--

If you drain the coolant and remove the water pipe it is dead easy, but sod that. I half removed the bottom screw then that allows you to move the cover away enough to get a screwdriver onto the top 3 screws easily enough.

My brushes were 3rd worn down, but doing this made no difference. I'm still only getting 13.5v when running which drops to 12.6v when turned off. Battery is new and fully charged before fitting when I bought the car a couple of months back and was the same then too. I have done all the earth mods already. Anything else on these alternators that can cause lower voltage charge? I think I might have a lazy starter motor (very slow turning to start with and feels like it's trying to overcome resistance) as everything else runs fine, so I'll swap that out next and see how it goes. Wipers also slow but I hear the linkages on these can sieze up so I'll lube them up as well as they get better the longer they run. Grr.... [smiley=book2.gif]


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

nordic said:


> 3rd very uncommon, rotor brush surface gets worn, so that there is either no contact material left, or brushes can't reach it. This cannot be fixed and new alternator is required. Same symptoms as with slipping pulley - intermittent behavior.
> 
> Best regards


Alternators are infinitely rebuildable, like a B52 bomber plane :wink: . What you are referring to is called a slipring, its a £2 to £5 autodoc part, and of course it too can be replaced. Obviously need to take out alternator from the car:

Detailed instructions here:







Spacemonkey said:


> My brushes were 3rd worn down, but doing this made no difference. I'm still only getting 13.5v when running which drops to 12.6v when turned off. Battery is new and fully charged before fitting when I bought the car a couple of months back and was the same then too. I have done all the earth mods already. Anything else on these alternators that can cause lower voltage charge? I think I might have a lazy starter motor (very slow turning to start with and feels like it's trying to overcome resistance) as everything else runs fine, so I'll swap that out next and see how it goes. Wipers also slow but I hear the linkages on these can sieze up so I'll lube them up as well as they get better the longer they run. Grr.... [smiley=book2.gif]


Rear the thread in my signature below titled Voltage checks. Check all wires for excessive heat as a starting point.


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

Thanks, I think it was that thread I followed before. I did the same except for the alternator parts (now have replaced the regulator only) and added extra earth wires everywhere too. Cleaned up all the connections around and under the battery, on the starter, alternator etc. Still only 13.6v max. Battery is a good one bought new when I got the car as I thought it was shot . Symptoms I'm trying to cure is a lazy starter. My old Ducati had exactly the same symptom, and that was a lack of engine earth strap so hoped it'd be the same, but no. Basically, the starter seems to struggle to turn over- like theres a big resistance to overcome. It makes the starter motor noise for a split second, pauses like it's trying to overcome severe friction or compression, then turns but slowly imo. It starts ok, but recently has had a few times where it's just turn over and not start. £rd attempt would normally result in a start but odd... Onlt faults that threw up was P0011 on camshaft A intake retard set position not reached (over advanced) intermittent and P1455 on Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 Implausible signal intermittant which I'd guess stems from the not starting occasions. I have a recon starter motor to go on but it's getting the time.


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

My sister's VW Touran was very lethargic during cranking.

It would turn over, stall and then slowly turn over, before eventually starting. It always gave the impression the battery was nearly flat!

I fitted a replacement starter motor, after which it turned over and started very quickly.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

@Spacemonkey
Did you measure voltage on the battery and on the alternator with engine running?


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

peter-ss said:


> My sister's VW Touran was very lethargic during cranking.
> 
> It would turn over, stall and then slowly turn over, before eventually starting. It always gave the impression the battery was nearly flat!
> 
> I fitted a replacement starter motor, after which it turned over and started very quickly.


Exactly that! I'm hoping the new starter would cure it...


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

silkman said:


> @Spacemonkey
> Did you measure voltage on the battery and on the alternator with engine running?


Not yet as I've recently moved (OK, 6 months ago.. but hey...) and no idea where my Multis are. At the mo I'm happy riding the bike now the sun is finally out. It's got a 1.8 VTwin and noisy pipes that at 80mph sounds like a Scarab 38KV throttling out of Miamarina heading out to the Islands for a little pickup so I'm happy as a pig in poop with that. I'm sure you'll get the reference.. 8)


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

So today I used the inbuilt voltage meter- the aircon thingy- and it read 14.1v on setting 20. Goes down to 13.8 on idle and 12.8/9 when turned off, so that's not bad I'd say.


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