# High Pressure Fuel Pump Tappet/Follower Failed (with image)



## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

As in the Below picture I checked my high pressure fuel pump follower and it had failed (failed one on the left):










What I'm wondering is how do I know if I need to replace the camshaft or high pressure fuel pump? I've inspected the end of the pump and the camshaft and they look as they should, no marks in the metal or anything, so I'm not sure if I have to replace them, or whether i can just put the new tappet on and leave those parts in place?

Cheers.


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## Jasonl (Mar 31, 2018)

That looks like its been like that a while and surely done some kind of damage..looks like full failure


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, How many miles has it taken to wear it that much. Is the engine oil changed frequently?
I would expect cam to be damaged.
Hoggy.


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Sorry I should have mentioned these details on the original post; this is a new car to me (I have another 2 tfsi), it has a full audi service history with oil changes being completed at least every 10k miles (I confirmed that with Audi rather than just trusting the book). The car done 100,013 miles. I'm guessing the tappet hasn't been replaced before by the previous owned. I couldn't feel any grooves on the cam. As for the fuel pump the spring and end part look to be ok, but I don't really know what I'm looking/feeling for on the damage front. Does anyone have a good description or some images of how to identify if they have failed?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

With the tappet worn completely through, your fuel pump actuator had to be riding directly on the cam lobe. I find it hard to believe there is no damage considering the tappet is case-hardened.

Your engine 'might' function fine with just a new tappet, but I'd be seriously pissed if I discovered that my vehicle's previous owner covered up a problem like that by just replacing the tappet...


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## OvEr_KiLL (Jan 16, 2019)

vswizz how long will it take a garage to change this for me? was the ecu light on?
thanx


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

OvEr_KiLL said:


> vswizz how long will it take a garage to change this for me? was the ecu light on?
> thanx


It's a 5 minute job (10 at the most)
See:


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

I'm not trying to cover anything up. Just trying to assess the damage and see what requires doing. Here are the Camshaft and High pressure fuel pump:



















I've wiped as much oil off as i can and ran my finger over the metal and it feels smooth at least.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

It might feel smooth, but it could have worn down a couple of thousandths enough that the cam is now "U" shaped. Only way to know for sure is to get a mic on it and hand turn the engine.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Maybe its just reflection in your pics, but from what I can see your fuel pump and cam lobe look terrible. :?


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Many thanks SwissJetPilot, thats helpful.

As for them 'looking terrible' that doesn't really help unless you can explain why and how they look terrible and how this identifies whether they are failed or not.

I will certainly look into checking out if cam is 'u' shaped.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

+1 FNChaos - This line would indicate a surface deviation. Again, a mic would verify the findings. If you take a look at the mic setup in the previous photo, this type of mic set-up can be done without disassembling the engine. You just need to find someone that knows how to do it. If you can find a machine shop or know a machinist, you might get him to do it for your for a 6-pack. At least you'll have someone other than a garage tell you if it's ruined or not. But given the condition of the follower, odds are good some level of damage has already occurred.

Unfortunately we've only got your pictures to go by. So you'll need to put tool to steel to know for sure.

Worth a watch -


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Thanks for the info/video links.

I was watching: 




At 11:50, you can see a REALLY damaged one 

I'm still thinking what to do, like you suggested getting the cam tested is likely best, or just doing it.

Could you explain what a 'u' shaped cam will do? Just keep going through followers?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

More than likely, yes. A surface mismatch between the two moving parts could lead to premature, unpredictable wear between the two surfaces. You could end up with things worse off than they are now.


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Would somebody be kind enough to let me know the part number for the follower on a 2007 2.0TFSI . Going to do this swap out shortly!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

According to 7zap parts list P/N 06D 109 309 C. It might be worth a quick chat with Audi's Parts Department in the event there's a newer revision.

You can also find a replacement kit that includes the follower (6), the o-ring (2) and three new bolts (7).









https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... -133046/#6


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## Jasonl (Mar 31, 2018)

Just dug out mine and its 06d109309c and you need an oring wht 005 184


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Cheers all!


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

The question now is should I go with genuine Audi part for approx £40?

Or a lesser brand for about 50% less?

Any suggestions?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Romani44 said:


> The question now is should I go with genuine Audi part for approx £40?
> 
> Or a lesser brand for about 50% less?
> 
> Any suggestions?


I'd go with an aftermarket follower and use the savings to install a fuel pump stud kit. 
That way you can remove your fuel pump for inspection as often as you'd like without worrying about stripping the threads.


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## kerwinrobertson (Sep 3, 2018)

I would be worried about the bits of metal off the follower that will be going around in the engine. 
As a minimum I would be looking at new cam, follower, HPFP and oil change, drop the sump to clear any metal debris out of the oil strainer.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

FNChaos said:


> Romani44 said:
> 
> 
> > The question now is should I go with genuine Audi part for approx £40?
> ...


This actually makes the pump harder to remove each time to inspect the follower,
Have removed mine over 10 times being stage 2+ running upgraded HPFP, just have to be careful taking the bolts in and out and torque them correctly!

Also I would never recommend any but OEM with a follower, the black hardened coating on OEM works if changed reqularly, who knows how the aftermarket coating may fair


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

While I usually buy non-OEM Audi parts for routine maintenance (e.g. oil & air filters and brand named plugs, belts and hoses, etc.) I would be cautious about a non-OEM follower for the simple reason - I don't know who made it or if it's made to OEM VAG specifications.

There is a huge problem today with Chinese knock-offs which are often absolute garbage. Which is one reason why they're so cheap. We have already seen this with Chinese made timing chain tensioners which are complete knockoffs of the OEM part.

The dark area of the cam follower has probably been case-hardened either by carburizing, nitriding or some other similar process. VAG suppliers have to follow a known manufacturing process to ensure the parts meet the design and quality requirements. This is one of the reasons Audi has (at least here in Germany) a two-year warranty on their parts.

If you buy aftermarket, it could be painted black for all you know. And how well it will perform is anyone's guess. The risk is what happens when a non-OEM follower fails - will it just wear through a bit faster, or will it shatter into large chunks of metal that wipe out your valve train?

You pay your money and take your chances.


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## Romani44 (Jun 14, 2018)

Thanks for all the advice.

I've just purchased the Febi Bilstein part along with the rubber ring. £34 all in. Sorted.


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

There is a few parts I need to buy which it would be great getting help identifying. I definitely want to buy the stud kit, as I'm worried about stripping those threads. Does anyone have recommendations for UK ones? I saw quite a lot of these kits on US websites, but the only stud kit I've seen in the UK is: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Convers ... Sw-FJdPFqe

Also does anyone know the part numbers for the Schrader valve on the HPFP (mine is sticking) and also the white electrical connector part number (just the plastic connector)? I managed to snap the mechanism removing mine as it was really stiff (I've now ordered this tool: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electrical-S ... 2749.l2649, which should make removing these connectors much easier in the future and hopefully mean I don't break the clips!).


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Oh I found the Schrader valve part number on that diagram which is 06D 133 400 A. Cheers. Unfortunately the electrical connector isn't on that diagram.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If unsure about the connector part number, look at it carefully. The PN is usually moulded into the plastic as shown in this example. Then just disassemble the one you have and rebuild it with the new connector body.


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Will do. I've never put one of those plastic connectors together with the wires so hopefully it goes OK. I don't think there is any soldering involved in it? Also does anyone know if there is a guide for replacing the intake camshaft on tfsi (I do prefer videos, but I've had a look and there doesn't seem to be one).


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This should help with the connector repair. From the Forum Knowledge Base (KB) -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1876731


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

That video is brilliant, cheers.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

You can buy a repair kit for the HPFP spring


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## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

Is this all models, as my TTS is a 2012, wasn't it hardened / replaced around 2009 with a new version?


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Wolvez said:


> You can buy a repair kit for the HPFP spring


Sweet I didn't know that! Can you link me to that or do you have a part number?

Cheers


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## kerwinrobertson (Sep 3, 2018)

Taylortony said:


> Is this all models, as my TTS is a 2012, wasn't it hardened / replaced around 2009 with a new version?


I think the camshaft lobes were hardened in the 2010 facelift


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

vswizz said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > You can buy a repair kit for the HPFP spring
> ...


I found this video: 



 of someone upgrading the HPFP.

I looked for an 'upgrade' part and found this: https://www.akstuning.co.uk/fueling/905 ... ea113.html

However that is the same price as the whole high pressure fuel pump. Audi quoted me £267 for the whole pump. I was hoping to find I could just replace the pin/spring part for way cheaper than the whole pump so thats a shame.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

vswizz said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > You can buy a repair kit for the HPFP spring
> ...


06F 127 025 J , 06F 127 025 H


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Wolvez said:


> vswizz said:
> 
> 
> > Wolvez said:
> ...


Isn't that the part no for the whole hpfp rather than a repair kit?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Sorry got confused with compatible with part #

Part #: GYYBTXB


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

aha - perfect thanks. I can see it with that part number. Looks like there is only 1 on eBay and its from China with the seller having 0 feedback. At least having the part number I can hunt for one from a good source.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Don't dry start the engine after changing oil and filter. You also need to do Basic settings for fuel pump.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If my research is correct, it looks like the OEM manufacturer of the fuel pump and cam follower is Hitachi, but built in Germany as http://www.hueco.com/. Might be worth an email to see if they sell directly and/or if they have rebuild kits.

This PDF catalog will take a while to download but you can check it yourself. In order to find the part in the HUCO catalog, you have to find their part number in the Hitachi catalog. - Why make it easy, when you can make it difficult!

http://www.hueco.com/mm/Enginemanagemen ... wnload.pdf


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

And guess what!? Hitachi Automotive Systems Espelkamp GmbH even has a couple of useful fuel pump and HP fuel pump DIY YouTube videos -

High Pressure Fuel Pump (on the engine)





Fuel Pump (under the seat)


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Wolvez - Sorry I'm not sure what you mean by basic settings for fuel pump? Do you mean some kind of calibration on the pump?

SwissJetPilot - That is some great info, and those videos are pretty good also! My pump has hitachi stamped onto it so definitely the correct manufacturer. I'll do as you suggest and contact them to see if they can supply a repair kit of any sort.

Cheers


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Also referenced in that video was the fuel filter; I was trying to replace mine today, but the screw which holds the filter in the plastic housing is a rusted blob. Surprised me as the bottom of the car is almost rust free. But this screw is totally exposed to the elements down there. Either way I'm really not sure how I'm going to get it out to replace the fuel filter, may end up having to replace the entire plastic housing.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*@ vswizz* - Wolvez is referring to a Basic Setting done with a VAGCOM. You'll need a VCDS or OBD-Eleven to perform the Basic Setting. To be honest, I'm not sure why it's not mentioned in other repair videos or DIY's.

With regards to the VCDS, there are two operations that can be done after certain repairs. One is a Basic Setting, the other is an Adaptation. I actually sent an email to Ross-Tech asking for what is the difference, here's their reply -

_Dear SwissJetPilot,

VW/Audi uses both functions for different things with some overlap. In general Adaptation involves entering some value, such as idle speed where you have different choices. Basic Settings is more like a single pre-determined routine that gets run like a throttle body alignment where you have no choices to make. The factory repair manual is the source for knowing which function is required. Our online manual explains this somewhat as well:

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.php

Regards,

Andy_

From my experience with the Roadster top, and Adaption is requried anytime a new electronic component is installed so the computer can figure out where the max and min operating ranges are of the new device. Typically any electronic with a rheostat which is replaced needs an adaptation (e.g. Roof Flap Servos, HVAC Servos, Climate Control Module, Gas Pedal.) More info here in the KB - https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1870481

*@ Wolvez* - Can you provide some details on how it's done beyond what's already given in the Ross Tech website? Is it required for both the low pressure AND high pressure fuel pumps?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... DI_Engines


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Ah OK, I don't yet have a vag com. Need to get one of those. Don't have a windows laptop though, so have been putting it off. Looks like I will need one for this and also the fuel filter replacement.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Honestly I really don't know. I just follow the service manual. The only Basic Settings that I can really feel the difference after running it is the DSG Basic Settings. I run DSG Basic Settings everytime the battery is disconnected.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looking at the Ross Tech website, it seems the Basic Setting is only intended when the Lift Pump (the one under the seat) or the Fuel Filter is replaced to ensure there's no air in the line. This makes sense since it's just an electrical test and not a mechanical test. In order to purge the HP Fuel Pump, the engine would have to be running since it's mechanically driven. None of the DIY videos I've seen on the HP Fuel Pump replacement indicate a Basic Setting is required after replacement.

But to be sure, I've contacted Hitachi HUCO directly to see what they have to say. Also to find out if they sell a HP Fuel Pump rebuild kit (like the one Wolvez recommended) for the pieces that fit over the end of the fuel pump piston spring.

Worth a watch to understand how the VCDS Basic Setting work -


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## Hitachi_Automotive (Jul 30, 2019)

I am happy that you like our videos and products.
We also deliver the high pressure pumps and many other things directly to VW, that's why we have the competence in these areas.

The videos are made by internal team mainly for trainings, you will also notice that the quality of the videos improves, that we always learn new things.

Swiss Pilot drew my attention to the site, it's nice that you can find a lot of interesting things here.

If you have any questions regarding our products, please feel free to contact me.

- Hitachi guy


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Hitachi Guy - Thanks for the offer. I have sent you an email, and have posted it here for the benefit of our members ([email protected]) -

Dear Hitachi Guy,

Thanks for the videos, they will be very helpful for our Forum members. I do have a few questions so I hope you can help shed some light on a few things.

1.) Does HEUCO offer a rebuild kit for the end of the fuel pump where the followers fits onto. (see picture below)
2.) When the High Pressure Fuel Pump is replaced, is a OBD (VagCom) Basic Setting required or is this only for the Low Pressure fuel pump (under the rear seat) and/or fuel filter?
3.) Does HEUCO offer a replacememtn PHFP for the Audi TT VR6, 3.2 engine? And do you have installation instructions or parts for this engine model?

Thanks very much. Looking forward to your reply,

SwissJetPilot


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## Hitachi_Automotive (Jul 30, 2019)

Hello SwissJetPilot,

we always try to bring out new videos, but we often don't have the time because we do the whole process internally.

If you are interested, we can also publish "uncut" videos - they would be longer and more detailed, where everything is shown step by step.

And now to the questions:
_1.) Does HÜCO offer a rebuild kit for the end of the fuel pump where the followers fits onto. (see picture below)_
Unfortunately we cannot offer repair kits for safety reasons (incorrect installation, leakage). We would also not recommend to rebuild a defective pump and use it again (internal contamination e.g.).

_2.) When the High Pressure Fuel Pump is replaced, is a OBD (VagCom) Basic Setting required or is this only for the Low Pressure fuel pump (under the rear seat) and/or fuel filter?_
The high pressure pump is changed without a learning process (for the current high pressure pumps on the aftermarket market). The low-pressure pump looks slightly different. For vehicles with TFSI engine with timing belt, the following requirements shall apply after the fuel feed unit has been replaced, it is connected to the engine control unit. For vehicles with a TFSI engine with timing chain drive, this is not required. We had a vehicle with chain, so we added a comment under the video.
I have added a comment under the video.

_3.) Does HÜCO offer a replacement PHFP for the Audi TT VR6, 3.2 engine? And do you have installation instructions or parts for this engine model?_
To give a more accurate answer I need a reference number or a chassis number.

If you like the videos I would ask you to subscribe and comment.


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Hi Hitachi,

Thanks for responding to the questions.

Its a real shame there is no kit available, as if the only part that has wear on the pump is the spring and the end pin which connects to the follower (which is where the wear will be if the follower fails/degrades), it seems to be a very expensive/wasteful fix to replace the entire HPFP unit.

As in the following video: 



 and with the following part: https://www.akstuning.co.uk/fueling/905 ... ea113.html, people do seem to be working on these HPFP without trouble, but rather than an 'upgraded' part replacement (with higher rater material), it would be good to get a like-for-like part kit to avoid replacing the entire unit.

Cheers


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I believe this is the rebuild kit mentioned previously. Item #GYYBTXB as seen on AliExpress and eBay. I've yet to find the installation instructions so I'm not exactly sure where the two half-moon parts are supposed to go -


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Yes - I'll likely end up ordering that kit, though i've never ordered from aliexpress before. Its just the material is unknown and I would far more trust buying this kit from the manufacturer or a reputable manufacturer as if this is made from a poor quality metal it may wear through. It is listed as stainless steel.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

FCPEURO Lifetime warranty

Removing and installing the same G410 sensor don't requires adaptation? I assumed it's like throttle body and intake flap.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/ ... 4-4560.pdf


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I believe this is the rebuild kit mentioned previously. Item #GYYBTXB as seen on AliExpress and eBay. I've yet to find the installation instructions so I'm not exactly sure where the two half-moon parts are supposed to go -


I assume it's like the vacuum pump repair kit that comes with extra o-ring to repair both new and old style vacuum pump. If the pump don't have that part simply ignore it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

As to the fuel pump repair kit, that very Interesting. To be honest, I'd have preferred it if came with a tool to properly 'dome' and form the end of the retainer to ensure it's connected properly, rather than just smacking it with the end of a wrench.

But yeah, it's definitely a cheaper alternative to replacing the entire fuel pump for the sake of a worn retainer. The odd thing is I can't find this repair kit on their website. Even the link in their YouTube video doesn't work...?? I've written to them to ask if it's still available since this is a 2014 video.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Finallyy found the part # http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/AWE ... pgrade.pdf

Much better mark the pump before disassembly. The video I posted is for stage 2 or HPFP upgrade. That kit is very expensive.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yeah, I noticed that. For $350, I can buy a brand new pump with a warranty for 2-years! Just sayin' 

EDIT - Just received an email back from them. Seriously? These little machined parts, vs an entire pump for that kind of money? Really? Is it just me or am I missing something here...???

EDIT - Got another email. Seems this kit is not really intended as an OEM replacement which is why it's so expensive -

_"Audi does not sell just internals for these pumps. Most customers who are purchasing these kits are doing so for the benefits of the upgrade for ECU tuning etc. Upgraded HPFP internals are required for most if not all Stage 2 or above tunes from any tuner."_


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## vswizz (May 20, 2019)

Yes, unless I'm missing something, providing a piston and spring makes the most sense. Having watched that video that could then be a very quick repair by removing the nut, old spring/piston and then inserting the new piston and spring and then re-tightening the nut to 40nm. I think it makes more sense also not to touch the internals for cleaning, just put a clean socket when removing the old parts/inserting the new parts. It introduces too much to go wrong cleaning the inside of it IMO.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ vswizz - Totally agree. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

So - back to your original question, did we manage to help you with all this??


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Never attempt this repair without VCDS or ODIS scantool. Severe engine damage could occur if HPFP leaks gasoline to your oil. Monitoring the fuel pressure is very important before and after the engine start.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Wolvez - Which measuring blocks?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ Wolvez - Which measuring blocks?


Measuring block 140, if I remeber it correctly. I prefer using advance measuring blocks.
Fuel should be at least 1/4 tank full.

I never let my fuel level go below 1/2. Very horrible fuel consumption once fuel level is below 1/2.


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## Hitachi_Automotive (Jul 30, 2019)

vswizz said:


> Hi Hitachi,
> 
> Thanks for responding to the questions.
> 
> ...


Hi vswizz,

I understand your point, because I also repair my car almost completly by myself. 
This pump is designed to survive the car, believe I was in the factory in Sachsen and saw everything.
The only reason why the pump fails is due to the wrong conditions, oil, dirt, wrong treatment, etc.

Generally I would not install a chinisium cylinder without coating, because it can come quickly to a sticky.

And for $260$ you can almost buy a new high pressure pump with warranty.


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## Hitachi_Automotive (Jul 30, 2019)

Hello Gentleman,

just wanted to ask if there is something from ourside, what we could do for your forum. Especially for the topic HPFP?


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