# Haldex oil and filter change WITH photos =)



## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Decided as it was not raining to do my haldex oil and filter as its due in 400miles 80K
I got all the bits together first 








then drove to the petrol station and went the long way round 
to warm the haldex to drain it :wink:
then I jacked up the back of the car and put it on stands
and I cleaned the bottom on the haldex box as it looked quite dirty








used some wd with a tootbrush to clean it up








then drained the old oil out used a 5mm Allen key
looked quite clean draining out








But when I looked at it in the drain tray it did look quite dirty  








while it was draining out I removed the under tray from below the fuel tank
as this gets in the way of the haldex spanner








this is held by 3 round clips & 2 m6 nuts with captive washers








next bit to do was remove the old filter quite fiddly








quite fiddly to get the spanner on and you can
only move it a little at a time one segment on the spanner
Finally the old filter came out  








I then compared the old filter to the new








at this point I filled the haldex with the new oil with the caulking gun
quickly moved the gun away and put the drain plug back in
only lost a little oil so that was OK
The small amount of oil left in gun I used to put on the "O" seal on the new filter








then fitted the new filter in








and tightened it up








finally I got some rust inhibiting black paint and painted all the rusty bits








and fuel tank retaining strap








thats it job done for another 20k


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Good job mate, I had all the stuff to do this DIY but got my local indie to do it in the end, he did say it was a fiddley job!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

I did consider that but I did it @ 60k so I know what was involved  
I paid £60 for the oil and filter last time & £30 for the spanner
this time it was only £45 for the OIL and FILTER so it has gone down 

see .......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haldex-fi...arParts_SM&hash=item3cc8770005#ht_1592wt_1139


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## lensman (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks for the "how to guide with pix" as a soon to be owner i appreciate these type of posts.well done.
just one thing, does the car have to be level or is it better to raise the rear end to fully drain ?


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

some will argue it needs to be level I don't think it makes much difference the main thing is to get the oil warm first with a good drive 10 /15 miles to get it warm 
I just let it drain till it stopped did take half an hour or so to totally stop draining though
have done this job twice now and have had no haldex issues or errors and saved paying the dealer to do it  
that's the good part


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Nice post and plenty of pics is spot on [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

was going to take some of the oil injection bit but did not want to cover my phone with oil
but its been covered here in great detail so did not feel the need 

http://www.amp82.co.uk/tt/haldex/

&

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc35.shtml


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

In response to a pm on the subject a special spanner for the halidex filter you cannot do it without it
See ....

Cheapest on I could find here ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/laser-393...ls_Equipment&hash=item5d306ec5b6#ht_878wt_689

And oil here .....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275ML-Hal...le_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item46055a00fc

And filter here .......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haldex-Fi...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41621f31c9

Hope this helps anyone considering doing this job themselves


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

At the risk of sounding pedantic, but for the benefit of readers, I would point out that the Bentley manual states quite clearly that the filter should be changed before filling the unit with oil. You appear to have done the reverse. Whether it makes any difference I don't know. Logic would suggest that putting the oil in with the Filter and cap removed as you seem to have done, would have resulted in the oil being forced out of the filter hole. I reach this conclusion because you say you used the remaining oil to lubricate the 'o' ring seal on the filter housing.

Otherwise a helpful piece.

Incidentally I find no need to use a caulking tool for the oil cartridge, which would mean having to raise the back of the car far higher that I am able on to ramps. All that is needed is to initially use a 3/8 (or 1/2 inch) 6 inch extension to push the plunger and then add a 3 inch extension, until all the oil is is ejected into the Haldex. Essential to have a new drain seal on hand ( part no. 02D 525 656 )

I think the reason it is suggested that the filter is removed first is to prevent a dirty filter contaminating the new oil being injected into the unit.,


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## Jazzle (Aug 3, 2012)

I need to do this on mine but have been contenplating doing it myself. Im a competent diy mechanic but out of 10 how hard would you say this is to do as i dont want to find my self being stuck.

Nice pictures aswell, makes it easy to see what to do!


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## toocool (Nov 6, 2012)

[album][/album]


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

Jazzle said:


> I need to do this on mine but have been contenplating doing it myself. Im a competent diy mechanic but out of 10 how hard would you say this is to do as i dont want to find my self being stuck.
> 
> Nice pictures as well, makes it easy to see what to do!


There is nothing technical about it. There is really nothing to go wrong. But it's hard work on lying on your back and would probably take about three hours on ramps.

The main problem is getting the rear of the car high enough to gain access. My wheels were approximately 10 inches off the ground and that is plenty. You will need to remove the fuel tank undercover in order to be able to use the special tool properly. Access to the Filter plug is difficult even with the special tool but it works well.

Make sure you have enough of the big star washers on hand which hold the fuel undercover on ( 4 will probably cover it ).

Suggest you have a new earth strap on hand - they are invariably already broken or will break when touched. An earth strap 8 inches long with a 6mm hole one one end and an 8mm at the other. Ordered from: ( for £4.49 and very helpful and quick and better quality than the original).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130723716112? ... 1439.l2649

Don't worry about huge amounts of oil escaping when you plug the drain hole - it's only about a 3/8 inch hole, but make sure you have a new drain plug seal. Suggest you use my method of ejecting the oil from the tube (see above) and you will not need to use a caulking gun.

You may of course find fittings broken off or the need to put a new earth bolt into the spare wheel well which will all take extra time.
So, what you will need: Ramps, Special tool for filter, Haldex oil, Haldex filter and cap, an allen key for the drain plug to use with a ratchet wrench ( it may be tight and a regular allen key may not have enough leverage). 4 new star washers, one drain plug washer and a bit of ingenuity..

Order of events: Remove and replace filter first - then drain and replace oil.

Difficulty 5. Effort 6.


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## gunner (May 18, 2002)

I did mine last weekend and noted the following:-
- getting the old filter off is tricky especially if the car if just lifted up on trolley jacks. After loosening the filter with the tool I used my fingers to un-thread the last few turns, this was quicker and easier than using the tool
- refitting the filter its equally tricky if you have limited access. I eventually managed to locate the filter into the haldex housing and tighten by hand, I used the tool to fully tighten up.
- refilling with oil can be achieved using a caulking gun.You just need to bend the filler tube by 90 degrees. The bend makes little difference to the flow of oil.
- The next tricky part is refitting the drain plug.I suggest fitting the drain plug with the 6mm Allen key before proceeding. Trying to fit the drain plug without the Allen key may result in difficulty as its hard to grip it with oil flowing out. The haldex oil tube suggest 15c is an ideal temp, presumably for filling. I was thinking you could put the haldex oil in the freezer for 1 hour and then try filling. Hopefully the oil will have thickened to slow any drainage after filling.

IM surprised no one has designed a spring loaded filled device, this could be removed to allow drainage and when refitted, a hole in the base could be used to force the oil past a spring loaded ball bearing which would prevent any drainage. When all the oil is in, a second bolt could be inserted in the filling hole to seal it.


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

There is really no problem filling or putting the drain plug back in, but it is easier with the drain plug on the end of a hexagonal key (not a regular allen key).

As regards the injection of the oil, remember this is a light oil not a sealant and very little effort is required to push the plunger and therefore a caulking gun is NOT required. Consequently there is no need to bend the nozzle and less clearance (height) is required.

It's really dead easy.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Excellent thread!

_Surely one of the moderators should escalate this to a "How To?"_


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## gunner (May 18, 2002)

Agreed, it supposed to be easy, but when youre 52 years old, crawling about under a car jacked up 6 inches in pouring rain, its easy to mess up. And mess up I did, after filling with oil, I attempted to refit the drain plug. Unfortunatley I didnt use the hex key to hold the plug and as I struggled to fit the plug more and more oil drained back out. In the end I thought bugger it, too much oil is lost need to start again.

Tomorrow, armed with a fresh tube of oil IM going for another try, hopefully with more success.


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## RazMan (Aug 28, 2012)

Excellent stuff here guys - I am contemplating having a go at this and feel a bit more confident about the process now [smiley=book2.gif]


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## jing-jang (Jun 4, 2012)

anybody knows how much this costs if you have it done in audi ???


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## stevebeechTA (May 16, 2009)

This has been a good read, One question though, prob a silly one but hay ho. 
How much oil should there be in the Haldex, is it the whole tube that goes in? when a little comes out to put the plug in i would be concerned that I lost to much and break it when i start driving it.


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

The amount in the cartridge is calculated to allow for what might leak out. In practice you will loose hardly anything. Principally because the drain hole is so small and instead of the oil coming straight down from inside the unit it comes through an internal hole at right angles to the hole, which helps restrict the flow.

If you don't get the car high enough 'Gunner' it will make it more difficult, hence the problem. You need to be able to take your time and be as comfortable as it is possible lying on your back under a car..

Take my tip. Don't bother with a caulking gun. Unless you have a huge amount of clearance you won't be able to inject the oil straight in, because the arm of a caulking gun makes it at least twice the length of the cartridge when it is full. Bending the nozzle complicates the issue. I had the same fear about loosing a lot of oil, but in practice if you do it as I've described using some socket extension, it's dead easy and you'll hardly loose a drop.. Honest!.

JingJang is right. It is fiddly and if you've got a hundred pounds or so to spare it will save you the trouble - but how would you know whether it's been done right and how much would all the other little problems which might arise with the under covers, earthing strap and so on cost at a main dealer... and besides you wouldn't get your hands dirty.

Have a drain pan, seal, some star washers and an earthing strap on hand you don't want to have to raise the car twice.

Don't forget - Filter first and oil second - not as in the pictures and don't overtighten the drain plug - it's not a particularly coarse thread and it's into aluminium.


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## gunner (May 18, 2002)

The oil cartridge holds 275ml and its all supposed to go in, though 5ml loss may be acceptable.

When Audi did a haldex oil and filter change for me a few years ago I think they charged something like £100. The oil costs around £14 from Audi and the filter is about £30, so not a huge saving if you DIY, especially as the filter wrench is an extra £20 or so.


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## t'mill (Jul 31, 2012)

jing-jang said:


> anybody knows how much this costs if you have it done in audi ???


Preston Audi quoted me £140 about 3 months ago.


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## Mickmcl007 (Sep 11, 2012)

Hi I was quoted £180 by my local independent garage to do the haldex oil change for me! Thought that was excessive, 
Think I will just do it myself.


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## gunner (May 18, 2002)

This afternoon, despite the freezing weather, I managed to fill my haldex with oil without loosing half of it whilst attempting to refit the drain plug.

As poor1 suggests the easiest way to refit the drain plug is to have it fitted to a hex key in advance. I used a 5 mm hex key on a 3/8 extension bar. If you don't do it this way, its tricky to grip the drain plug whilst trying to insert it especially as oil will be draining back out. The rear of the car should also be raised as high as possible, I used two trolley jacks to lift the car using the rubber button lifting points. I also chocked the front wheels to ensure the car couldn't roll back or forwards and fall of the jacks.

I think I only lost a few drops of oil, so IM happy the jobs a goodun, I now know how to do it in future and have saved a few quid.

I would also recommend buying a set of 3 new star spring washers/clips which hold on the haldex under-tray. Why Audi didn't simply use bolts to hold the under-tray in place is a mystery to me and I was puzzled as to how the star washers should be removed. Eventually I used a flat bladed screwdriver to turn the washers and prize them off, I don't know if this is the correct way or whether you simply pull the under-tray off? Refitting the spring washers was easy as they just push on.


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## Flash (Apr 14, 2011)

Great thread Guys...but one word of caution .The Rubber buttons under the car,there are four,are designed to lift the car on ALL four at the same time.E.G. On a four point,two post or four post ramp.This is to spread the load out,if you're lifting the car only on one side or one end you should use the re-inforced jacking points on the Chassis/cills,plus axle stands. You might get away with it OK using the rubber buttons and you might end up with a remodelled car floor!  
Regards Harry


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Think I paid £70 for oil and filter. At a VAG indy. Think It was £100 at Audi for oil only!

As regards lifting the car via the rubber buttons, surely it should be ok because if you're only lifting a quarter of the car therefore lifting very approximately a quarter of the weight. Less so at the rear as there's no heavy engine?

Is it easy enough to reverse onto ramps or will it ground the front bumper?


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

RAMPS: Depending upon the angle and length of of the ramps it might be necessary to have a lead in to the ramp in order to raise the level at which the tyre first touches the ramp when reversing onto it. Two pieces of 2x8 inch piece of timber with an tapered front and a couple of 1/2 coach bolts on the other end to hook onto the ramp is plenty. With a ramp platform 10 inches high, the car will reverse onto them without the front touching the ground, but only just.

The problem is ramps come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and for the TT you really need one designed for low cars, or use a hydraulic car ramp which are very expensive.

As regards jacking on the rubber buttons I take the well made point, but I would have thought that jacking the two rear buttons simultaneously would spread the load pretty evenly. The proof of the pudding is in the eating and it seemed to be ok in Gunners case. Personally I would be very wary of working under a car without axle stands as well.

Cars should always be jacked up evenly. It has been known for bonded windscreens to crack when a great deal of stress has been put on them by jacking excessively on one corner.

Well done Gunner for persevering. It really is quite easy once you have planned your course of action. Gunner makes the point that he cannot understand why Audi persist in using Star washers to retain plastic undercovers. It's actually not a bad idea because nuts would probably be so corroded over time that the studs would break off, whilst renewing the star washers, which come off easily, is not at all expensive.


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## davecooper (Mar 3, 2011)

Nick, great post and pictures, really easy to follow, will have a go myself when the weather gets warmer.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Thanks for the positive note ; )

Yes it was a fiddle to do , but there is no way I would pay a dealer to do it
or any job on my car better , knowing its been done right by oneself IMO ; )

The only exception is something like a cam belt change as 
that is a bit over my head so in that case I paid midland vw to do that !


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## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

Ok, so this is resurrecting an old thread! Had a major service and haldex oil/filter change yesterday at main dealer - looking under car at rear there looks to be some oil on some of the pipework near the filter (doesn't look too wet, just darker staining) is this usual when the haldex is changed? Dry weather so it wasn't going to clean off on the way home, but just want to be sure it isn't seeping out! Thanks.


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

Wipe it all off and check again after a few days. It's probably the mechanic having 'forgotten' to clean up


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## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

poor1 said:


> Wipe it all off and check again after a few days. It's probably the mechanic having 'forgotten' to clean up


Thanks - not sure I'll be able to crawl under on my drive/or if it will wipe off easily as its more staining than wet oil by the looks of things. Will give it a go though over weekend - is this usual though, that you would get oil onto the surrounding pipework, doing the haldex oil/filter change?


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## poor1 (Dec 28, 2011)

I wouldn't have thought so, but maybe some oil got spilt and it has been blown over your pipework purely by the motion of the car on a journey. This assumes that everything had been reassembled correctly including the filter having been replaced properly. Who knows?.

Why not take it back to the Main Dealer and ask them to check it - it's their responsibility and you paid them good money to do it.


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## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

You could be right, it's just a pain as it means leaving work early...the last image here looks like there is a bit of oil, unless that's just the black paint!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

It was a few years ago now it was a bit of spilt oil but I did clean up afterwards =)

I just got a new (to me) 2013 tt and thankfully the haldex has a longer interval and is far less hassle to do on the MK2 happily


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## TT2000Q (Oct 25, 2016)

I did this with the special tool a shown and it took around half an hour, slow to remove and refit filter as no room to move the spanner. Oil injection is easy, shoot it up and then plug the hole with the plug in one swift action, I didnt lose more than a drop on my first attempt so quite happy and far easier than it all sounds. Spanner was £10, oil and filter under £50 from TPS. I would say any competent diy mechanic could do this and the only real issue would be if you lost too much oil and then had to buy more to be able to complete the job but generally a fiddly but easy job, 4 out of 10


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

Does anyone know what size star washers I need for the undertray? Thanks.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

watersbluebird said:


> Does anyone know what size star washers I need for the undertray? Thanks.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400671586301? ... EBIDX%3AIT


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

I have read this thread and found it accurate, useful and interesting. I would only add a few points!

1. Someone wrote that nothing can go wrong, but I have heard about cracked casings upon removing the filter; probably due to ham-fisted previous over-tightening. [smiley=bomb.gif]

2. Leaving point one aside, it_* IS*_ worth doing this yourself; my 17 year old, 225 has a full but mixed service history; I removed the original metal filter, four months ago at 107,000 miles! At least you know it's done, if you DIY. (Replacement filters are all plastic, the original filters were cast aluminium)

3. Pop the cartridge in the freezer for 4-5 hours before doing the job; the oil is like water and this cooling makes it more like engine oil viscosity. Didn't spill a drop!

4. Before starting the job, I took the time to put a 45* bend on the cartridge tube, I stuffed it with kitchen roll, wore leather work gloves, and used a hot air gun to get it flexible; bent it and cooled it in water. The paper towel stops it flattening when bent, obviously, then poke the paper towel out! Despite the thicker (chilled) oil, you don't need a cartridge gun, but the bend does improve clearance. Keep the tube and lose it for next time 

5. The star washers on the fuel tank cover, are removed by unscrewing with a special tool in the two tiny holes in them. They can also be unwound with a couple of screwdrivers but they will probably rusty enough to be butchered off and replaced! (plenty available on ebay, as previously mentioned)

In summary, what's stopping you?! Difficulty rating 4/10

Regards,

Specsman. [smiley=toff.gif]


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Another point that the guides all miss is that the V6 & QS have a diagonal brace that needs to be removed to allow the Haldex spanner some movement.


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

David C said:


> watersbluebird said:
> 
> 
> > Does anyone know what size star washers I need for the undertray? Thanks.
> ...


Brilliant, thanks.


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> I have read this thread and found it accurate, useful and interesting. I would only add a few points!
> 
> 1. Someone wrote that nothing can go wrong, but I have heard about cracked casings upon removing the filter; probably due to ham-fisted previous over-tightening. [smiley=bomb.gif]
> 
> ...


That will come in handy when I try this soon, Specs. Thanks.


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

David C said:


> Another point that the guides all miss is that the V6 & QS have a diagonal brace that needs to be removed to allow the Haldex spanner some movement.


Wish I had that problem!


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

> Suggest you have a new earth strap on hand - they are invariably already broken or will break when touched. An earth strap 8 inches long with a 6mm hole one one end and an 8mm at the other. Ordered from: ( for £4.49 and very helpful and quick and better quality than the original).
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130723716112? ... 1439.l2649


I've not looked under the car yet but assuming to will need a new earth strap.... anyone got a new link for these?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Paulos said:


> > Suggest you have a new earth strap on hand - they are invariably already broken or will break when touched. An earth strap 8 inches long with a 6mm hole one one end and an 8mm at the other. Ordered from: ( for £4.49 and very helpful and quick and better quality than the original).
> >
> > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130723716112? ... 1439.l2649
> 
> ...


This should be ideal, I use this braided wire at work outside and it does weather well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Braided-Eart ... SwuW9dSIrx


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

davebowk said:


> This should be ideal, I use this braided wire at work outside and it does weather well.
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Braided-Eart ... SwuW9dSIrx


Hi, If you are going use one of these, wrap it in amalgamating tape, because of the large surface area on braided straps it will corrode away very quickly.
A multistrand pvc covered cable would be much better.
Hoggy.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, If you are going use one of these, wrap it in amalgamating tape, because of the large surface area on braided straps it will corrode away very quickly.
> A multistrand pvc covered cable would be much better.
> Hoggy.


I concur .
I did this job a few months ago , and not knowing any better :lol: , I bought a braided copper cable.
Following advice on here , I wrapped it in self-amalgamating tape and everything worked out OK.
It would have been far easier (and cheaper ) if I'd bought a PVC-covered cable in the first pace though  .


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

silverbug said:


> Hoggy said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, If you are going use one of these, wrap it in amalgamating tape, because of the large surface area on braided straps it will corrode away very quickly.
> ...


So one of these then ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Negative-Bla ... %3A2334524


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Paulos said:


> silverbug said:
> 
> 
> > Hoggy said:
> ...


Hi, Much better.
Hoggy.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Yes exactly  .


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## Paulos (Sep 15, 2019)

Thanks Y'all


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