# Workshop manual for cambelt change



## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi all,

I'm looking for a workshop manual that describes cambelt change on a 2006 2.0 Tfsi, can anyone help me out?
I did change cambelt on a few cars before (Escort 16V, Puma VCT, A3) but I prefer to have a good description...

Thanks


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

So, I got to see the procedure from ElsaWin and managed to change the timing belt, tensioner, followers and water pump.
They do make it overly complicated, though. For example, I didn't find any reason to unmount the frame that holds the noise insulation plate below the engine. Also, it states that you need to lift up the engine to get to two of the bolts in the right-side engine mount. This is not necessary as you can quite easily get to one of them from below and the other can be accessed by removing the wheel arc liner which reveals a hole in the frame and provides easy access.
I simply supported the engine on a jack, while removing the engine mount, to get the old belt off and the new one on.



















Quite a bit of work, but not as complicated as on my earlier Ford Puma 1.7 VCT


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## assailantsky (Feb 8, 2015)

poder said:


> I'm looking for a workshop manual that describes cambelt change on a 2006 2.0 Tfsi,


A bit late, but I found the Audi workshop manual online here: http://manuals.co/workshop/Audi/TT/TT41/4020

It states that it's for engine CDLA CDLB and CDMA, i.e. 2.0 Litre Turbo petrol engines for TT 8J. Cambelt/timing belt change is on page 87, and coolant pump removal is on p161.

How long did you take to do the job? I'm contemplating if I should do it myself, never done anything like this before. I've worked changing my brake pads and rotors, and spark plugs. But this seems a bit more involved but straight forward as long as I follow the instructions and don't stuff up the timings. Any special equipment that I'll need? Where you buy the belt kit and how much was it? Thanks for your input


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

It's definitely much more involved than changing brake pads etc. If messed up, the engine can get seriously damaged, so attempt it on your own risk!

That being said, if you understand the principles of how the timing works and proceed in an organized manner, it is not difficult but merely time consuming.
This is my first Audi and I have taken my time to do this and try to learn more about the car/motor at the same time. This resulted in me spending a little more than a whole day. Of course now, after having tried it, I could do this in about half a day.

I got the original belt kit and coolant pump from Audi. The price was about £200+£50 but I'm in Denmark and maybe the price is different here&#8230;

You will also need some new coolant as you have to drain the system first. Of course you could skip changing the coolant pump, but it's a lot of work to do it later as it requires the timing belt to come off, of course.
Take care not to spill a lot of coolant and definitely not on the new belt. Actually, you should leave the new belt in the box until needed to avoid getting any oil/dirt on it.
I used a bit of cardboard to make sure coolant didn't splash all over, while draining.









The workshop manual you found seems to be for the TTS, but the procedure is probably the same as for the standard 2.0. My engine is a BWA, it says so on the upper timing belt cover.

You will need some XZN bits (those are the ones with 12 splines), I can't remember which sizes are needed but 8 mm was one of them.

NOTE: Make sure to put a mark on the crankshaft pulley immediately after removing the w-belt pulley and cover, so you know exactly where it should be aligned to!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Some nice hands on experience there 

Increases the chance that I'll do this myself one day 8)


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Did you buy the whole kit or just the belt?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Ok I see you changed the belt, tensioner and all. I'm getting the whole kit.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Did you replace the stretch bolts?
I just found out the engine bolts and the crankshaft ones are stretch bolts and have to be replaced.
I hope they're available at the dealer tomorrow :-(


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

More ressources for anyone wanting to do the job. This is a webpage to pdf conversion so you have everything inside the pdf in case pictures vanish from the web. This for 2L TFSI golf engine. Same engine is found on some TT configs.
source: 
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index ... msg1094166


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

poder said:


> So, I got to see the procedure from ElsaWin and managed to change the timing belt, tensioner, followers and water pump.
> They do make it overly complicated, though. For example, I didn't find any reason to unmount the frame that holds the noise insulation plate below the engine. Also, it states that you need to lift up the engine to get to two of the bolts in the right-side engine mount. This is not necessary as you can quite easily get to one of them from below and the other can be accessed by removing the wheel arc liner which reveals a hole in the frame and provides easy access.
> I simply supported the engine on a jack, while removing the engine mount, to get the old belt off and the new one on.
> 
> ...


I did the job on mine last weekend. I have the same BWA engine. Do you remember if you have separate toothed belt covers or a single cover. I'm asking this because I have the separate toothed belt covers and I can tell you there is no way of getting the engine mount off without lifting the engine and removing the AC lines rivets and pushing them hard on the walls. I did it with the help of a friend and it was really hard to get the mount out and in. The mount goes between the two covers and you need to unbolt it to remove the upper belt and to completely remove it to put the lower cover. A REAL pain trust me.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

BWA belt versions version:


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

Mine also has the 2-piece cover, but I don't recall struggling getting the engine mount off/on.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Do you remember the exact steps you took?
Did you raise up the engine?
Did you move the AC lines out of the way? They are rivetted on the near the radiator side.
I don't see how you can remove the mount otherwise.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Removing the engine mount bracket on the engine side might seem hard but it is possible to get it out. No need to touch the ac lines.

After taking the weight of the engine from the oil pan (distribute the load with a piece of wood so you can't damage the pan) with a big ol floor jack you can of course lift or lower the engine. But if you bring the jack from the front you can also push or pull the engine front/back - if the jack has wheels. This is what will help with the bracket. Lift/lower the engine and try to flip/turn the bracket from it's home while pulling the engine forward with one hand. It won't just lift up, there is a little bit of maneuvering to get it out but it is not that hard like it seems.

*Then some pointers for a cambelt job for beginners*

All in all doing a cambelt isn't that hard and a 2.0 TFSI is one of the easiest ones to start with. The old 1.8T was also quite easy. No need for any special tools, there are timing marks to align. Here are some basic stuff which applies to pretty much any cambelt change operation. After gaining access to the belt you align the marks on the camshaft (or install locking tools when there is need for ones). Always turn the engine from the crankshaft middle bolt (19mm 12 point socket on most VAG cars) and always clockwise if the instructions won't instruct to do otherwise. When the camshaft side is aligned then also the crank should too. On the BWA engine there is a mark on the lower cover and a notch on the ribbed belt damper wheel on crank.

The engine is now "in time" and the tensioner nut/bolt cam be removed which slackens the belt. After this it is just a matter of removing the belt and all the pulleys and replacing them and their bolts. If you buy a good quality timing belt kit it will come with all the pulleys and even a waterpump if it is cambelt driven and all the new bolts needed. Pay attention to the tightening torques and that the tensioner lug engages in the slot it is meant to go, I suggest to pay attention to the old tensioner when removing that how the lug was so it is easy to get it right with the new one. Some TDI engines will suggest at installing the small guide pulleys after you have gotten the belt in place but it reads in their instructions. After changing the pulleys/water pump it is time to install the new belt and the instructions will tell an order in which to install the belt. But first check the timing marks are still aligned. Make sure you you keep the belt tight on the non-tensioner side (usually front side) between the crank and the camshaft pulley(s) and leave all the slack on the tensioner side which can then be tensioned away.

I usually throw the belt on the crank pulley and upwards from there and then install the lower cover and damper to check the timing mark. Then I will just lift the belt up and over the pulleys in the right order. The most important thing is to get the belt on while still staying "in time" before proceeding. Then the tensioner is turned to tighten the belt (pay attention which way clockwise or counter clockwise) and the nut in the middle is snugged up. The tensioner has a mark that moves when turning (use a mirror and a lamp to see it) and it is aligned with a notch - this means that the tension is right. When snugging up the tensioner nut you will have to counterhold the tensioner so it won't turn. After snugging it down you can tighten it to the specified torque (again counterholding) which was 25nm for the BWA engine if I remember correctly.. Check from your instructions. The thing is that there is no need to have that torque wrench ready when tensioning the tensioner. You can just snug it up and it will stay there. Then find a better position for the tool used to tension it and then torque the nut down while counterholding.

If the tensioner marks align and the timing marks are aligned you are almost there. Now you need to turn the engine from the crank pulley middle bolt two full turns so that the camshaft marks align again. If you pay attention to the tensioner while doing this you will see that the tensioning marks move. But when you reach the "time" and align the camshaft mark, check the crankshaft mark, if they align - good. Then check the tensioner if the mark is back to where you left it. Against the notch. If so - gongrats. The engine has stayed in time.

If the engine is not in time (ie the cam/crank marks don't align) you can loosen the tensioner, remove the belt from the cam, turn the cam/crank to align the marks - you can do a bit of fine tuning on them without the belt but only small movements but most likely you had the tensioner on too tight, adjust it and try again. If the tensioner is out of "range" but the timing marks still align, then you can just loosen the tensioner and retighten it until it aligns. Then again 2 turns and check. Rinse and repeat until everything stays where it should. It is normal on some engines for the belt to lose the tension because some slack might have been left on the non-tensioned side and when turning the engine over by hand you will even out the slack all around and the belt will lose some tension. This is just a matter of re-tightening. No need to get worried. Also if your tensioner mark is always let's say 5mm off on the "too tight" side of the mark then align the mark 5mm to the other side and check if it aligns after the two rotations. There are some tensioners that WILL tighten up more when torquing the nut no matter how hard you try to counterhold it. So it just needs some compensation.

But if you got it right on the first try. All the pulleys are torqued to the specified spec and the marks align then there is no chance of it being wrong. You can pat yourself on the back. There is no witchcraft included in doing cambelts, this last part applies to ANY timing job. If the marks align/possible locking tools can be installed without force and the tensioner is tensioned properly (possible marks align and the center nut/bolt is torqued) then it just has to be right.

This is just meant as a small buff and to shed some light what you are doing when changing a timing belt. Always read and follow the instructions but don't be baffled by them. Pay attention that you have all the new bolts/nuts/studs needed before going in.

If you wonder why there is only one camshaft sprocket and you know that your 2.0 TFSI is a dual camshaft engine well it is. The timing belt drives the exhaust camshaft which is then connected to the intake cam on the other end of the cylinder head via timing chain between the cams which has it's own tensioner which works with spring load and oil pressure. Changing the chain requires special locking tools and also removing the timing belt but all that is a different story..


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Thanks for the detailed post.
The BWA requires some fighting to get the engine mount out. I did it with the help of a friend and you definitely can not just unblot it and get it out with no effort like what poder's post seems to suggest. He does not even mention raising the engine. I would like to have a step by step on what to remove first as we couldn't figure out how to remove the mount without raising the engine a lot and pushing the AC lines by unrivetting one connection and unscrewing the other. The lower cover cannot be removed without removing the mount completely. The upper cover can be removed by loosening the mount only. I have ElsaWin and I agree they do make it look complicated but they are 100% correct about raising the engine. Unless you start cutting the old belt and removing the rollers first which I didn't do so I can't tell. But if you go upper cover then mount then lower cover then belt and tensionner and rollers there is no way to remove the mount without raising the engine a lot. 
Now for the belt replacement I took the easy way: and it was the easiest part.
. Check the timing is good and aligned. We didn't touch anything.
. Use a paint pen to mark two spots on the cam and two on the crack pulleys and the belt => 4 marked spots on crank/cam and on belt.
. Mark upper versus lower on the belt so you know which part is the upper belt and which is the lower. Or just put U on the upper side.
. Let the paint dry
. Get the old belt out
. align it with the new one
. reproduce the same marked spots on the new belt and 
. Mark the upper/lower position on the new belt
. let it dry
. Count the teeth between the marked spots just to make sure you're good.
. Put the new belt on and align the marks on the belt with the marks on the crank/cam.
. Tighten the tensionner following service manual instruction and you're good to go.

We didn't test/turn the engine. Nothing has moved.

Disclaimer for this above metionned steps : 
Do at your own risk and don't hold me responsible if you break your engine down.


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

I did use a jack under the engine, and yes, I did raise/lower it to get the mount off. This is 4 years ago and I don't recall all the details clearly, but it was not a struggle as you describe it...
I guess that in a year it's due again, and I'll get to try once more ;-)


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

OK. I'm not doing mine in a while  
I might open it up to check in the future.


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## Pj mac (Jan 10, 2016)

Hi, I purchased my Mk2 bwa engine code and hav receipts that cam and waterpump done about 4000 miles ago but almost sure can hear noise from it on idle but soon as apply revs it goes had a little look under top cover and belt seems OK and tight wondered if it was fitted correct, sounds like it's hitting cover but far as can see it's ok, or do I just bite the bullet and fit another


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Here's a link to the WorkShop manuals - you might just want to double check the work against what's in the manual for piece of mind. If you're also changing the accessory belt, it's a good idea to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys at the same time.

*Workshop manuals -*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

*Accessory Belt and Tensioner -*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1887033

Good link here that's worth a read -

*The Ultimate Audi Timing Belt Guide*
https://blog.wolfautoparts.com/ultimate ... elt-guide/


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## Pj mac (Jan 10, 2016)

Whats the best make to go for I see gates and conti also ina do kits
Cheers


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Get this stuff from Audi. No dodgy online parts when dealing with this. I wouldn't do it but it's your car


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

And make sure the noise is coming from the belt. 
Check my thread/video here about another source of noise on the 2L TFSI:

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1928257


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## iborg (Sep 26, 2014)

I know I'm bringing back a dead topic but how does changing the belt on a TFSI compare to the 1.8T of the Mk1?

Thanks,
Mike


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