# Clutch Adjustment?



## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi 
Just a quick question .... is the clutch self adjusting on the 1.8t 225? or can it be adjusted manually? reason i ask is the bit is very low? car has done 74k so im wondering if im gonna need a new clutch soon. gears are starting to get stiff too when cold.
Thanks :wink:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, No adjustment on Hydraulic clutch operation. Clutch is not releasing fully for some reason. Hopefully, not clutch pedal about to break.  Have you checked fluid level. Take up bite is usually high on worn clutch. 
Hoggy.


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## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Hoggy,
Checked fluid level and it looks ok, have to press clutch all the way down to floor and the bit starts when i lift the clutch up about about an inch? is this normal? :?


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Same here, @ 85K...
Bleeding helped, but it still plays sometimes doing this. Bite point is very low, half of clutch pedal way seem to do nothing at all. It's either pressure plate not pressurizing the slave cylinder well, can be slave cylinder itself, master cylinder or air in the system. Easiest and cheapest fix is to bleed the system 1st and top up the fluid (EUR ~10 for a can from Audi), then would go master cylinder (EUR ~80) replacement and most expensive solution is slave cylinder replacement, as the gearbox needs to be removed. Flywheel + clutch kit (EUR ~1200) is replaced at the same time. I'm thinking to go a full overhaul route, myself, as going to garage is expensive and can't guarantee their quality...

I would start from bleeding the system it may improve things, but not for long as in my case.

It's quite annoying to have these failed at just around 80K. It's not the clutch, which fails, but the hydraulic system. My friends '95 A4 1.6 with 140K is still going on the same original clutch with no problems, it's also hydraulic... Weird.


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## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Again!  
Thinking of bleeding the clutch and brakes? does anyone have a how too? or pics would help?
Thanks


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

The bleed screw is in between the starter and the gearbox shifter, can be accessed by disconnecting the secondary air pump hose from the air filter and pushing it slightly towards the engine. The screw is 9mm and has a rubber cap on nipple, which needs to be removed. You may want to use some cloth or ideally some hose attached to that nipple, so fluid doesn't get spilled everywhere.

Just unscrew it a tiny bit, then go and press the clutch with hand carefully, it will show no resistance. Raise it with a hand and pump press again. It is actually only few times, 4 or 5, before the fluid reservoir gets empty, so keep an eye on it and fill full before pressing the clutch. If you get it empty, you'll need to do all over again.

Once you feel it's enough, tighten the screw and pump the pedal until it gets tight.

Hope this helps.


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## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

HI,
Thanks for the info on bleeding the clutch,looks pretty stright forward so im gonna give it ago tomorrow.  
One other question?
Once bleeding does it matter weather i tighten the nipple with pedal held down? or back in its normal position?
Thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi TTpaul.a, You will need a tube with a one way valve to prevent air being sucked back in, or and an assistant & remember same reservoir shares the brake fluid as well, make sure fluid level stays high. Brake bleeding can be a nightmare with ABS etc.
Hoggy.


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Hoggy made a good point. I've read somewhere it's one way valve, but can't be sure. I think it's good idea to tighten the bleed screw before raising the pedal, just to be on a safe side  Also, as mentioned, make sure the reservoir doesn't get empty.


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## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

yeah, 
Thanks for the info, i guessed i might tighten the nipple with the clutch pedal held down, ive bled the brakes on my old a3 so have a good idea what to do.
What brake/clutch fluid do you recommend? :wink:


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## rob1975 (Nov 2, 2009)

Get yourself a gunsons easibleed kit, they are about 15quid and well worth it, deflate spare to around 15psi and use this to pressurise resevoir, then you just open bleed valve, close when done and no messing about getting air in or pressing pedal!


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## nordic (Apr 26, 2010)

Audi original fluid is just EUR ~10, but as I was told it's usual dot 4. Halfords dot 4 would do. Not sure if they can be mixed though, say 4 with 5, etc.


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## ttpaul.a (Apr 1, 2010)

Cheers! :wink:
Thanks for everyones help......will do the job today and hopefully gear selection will be better.


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