# TT/TTS Extractor Engine Oil Change (with pics)



## macaddict111 (Jun 13, 2018)

Hey fellow TT-heads! Today I changed my TTS' engine oil with my handy extractor, and thought I'd post my experience.

*Drain vs Extract*
There are obviously two ways to change your engine oil. Draining, where you remove the drain plug and let it all flow out, and extracting, where you suck the oil out from the top. I think there's no doubt that draining is the most "complete" method, in that any debris or junk that may be stuck against the plug at the very bottom can be removed. I drained my oil on every car I've owned before this one. However, extracting is MUCH faster, easier, and more convenient _especially_ with our car, since the oil filter is also right at the top. Also, most dealerships and shops in general use the extractor method for oil changes, and it's listed as the primary method in the Audi repair manual. As far as concerns about debris or sludge at the bottom, the science says this simply _shouldn't_ occur, as a proper, well-maintained oil should capture and suspend any particles and debris, and they should be caught by the oil filter. I'll leave the debate up to you all, but both methods are possible with this car.

This was by far the easiest oil change of any car I've had! It took me less than 10 minutes and I didn't have to get under the car or jack it up at all.

*What You Will Need*
-Oil Extractor (mine was about $75 and hooks up to shop air, no pumping required)
-6 Quarts/Liters 502 00 0W40/5W40 Oil
-06L115562 Genuine VW/Audi Oil FIlter Element w/ Gasket
-32 mm Socket (for oil filter housing)

I got all these parts on Amazon for about $40 (plus extractor). As far as oil selection,* the most important factor is you find an oil that complies with the VAG 502 00 specification.* You can also go for 504 00, but this is oil for low-mileage cars where it's infrequently changed and can stay in there for up to 2 years (?). Since I drive mine a lot, I will always hit the 10,000 mile limit first and have no need for a "long-life" oil, so I save money and go with the 502 00. I just go on Amazon, search for 502 00, sort by price, and get whatever's cheapest. The brand, type, marketing, and even weight aren't important, as long as the oil meets Audi's spec (I'm sure there will be comments on this). This ended up being Castrol Edge Professional on Amazon, and the 0W40 variety was cheaper. You can also find 5W40 oil in this spec, which really I should be using as I'm in a warm climate, but I didn't worry too much and had 2 quarts of 5W40 left over I used as well, so it was a mix of the two.

*DO NOT PUT NON 502/504 00 OIL IN THIS CAR!!* It's not expensive! These engines are very high pressure and heat, and are notorious for sludging up when run with conventional oil. Don't do it!

*The Oil Change*
This part is almost too simple. For extracting, it's easiest if your engine is warm. The oil will be thinner and easier to pull out.

1. Remove the engine cover by firmly pulling up and disengaging the four nubbins.

2. Check the current oil level with the dipstick. The Mk3 TT/TTS hold 5.75 quarts of oil. I was about a half-quart low, so I expected to get about 5.25 quarts out.

3. Slowly loosen the oil filter housing with the 32 mm socket, let the oil drain down, and remove the housing and filter element. It might seem strange to do this first, but the filter assembly has a one-way valve that keeps oil right under the filter so you don't draw in a bunch of air every time you start the engine. You will hear oil glugging back down into the pan as you loosen the housing. Wait and let it all flow down, then keep loosening and remove the assembly.








4. Remove the dipstick, insert the extraction tube all the way to the bottom and extract the oil. I had to use my medium-diameter suction hose to fit into the dipstick tube. There's a pretty clear feeling when the tube first hits the bottom. Then I turned on my air valve and it all pulled out. It took about 5 minutes, and I had a little over 5 quarts in my extractor, just as I expected. I like to let the extractor bubble and gasp for a while, as it's pulling out the last little bits on the bottom of the pan. I also like to push the line a bit further down, the pull up and repeat, to get as much out as I can.








5. Put the new element and gasket on the housing. Cover the new gasket in old oil before rolling it down the housing to keep it supple. The old filter element will be held tight in the housing. Give it a good tug (it's not threaded so twisting not necessary), and it will pop out. Then press the new element into the housing. Push it firmly, as you will feel it "break in" to the detent/holder at the bottom and go another half inch.








6. Replace the new filter and housing by screwing them back in. There is a torque spec, but I don't have a torque wrench and it was very easy to feel when it was fully tight. Be gentle, it's a plastic housing and liable to be cracked.

7. Pull the filler cap off, use a funnel and add about 5 quarts new 502/504 00 oil. Check the dipstick, then add about a half quart as needed. I like to keep my oil level about 1/4 quart low so I can be sure it's not above the max line of the dipstick.

8. Replace the filler cap and dipstick, and put the engine cover back on. Congrats!

There was about 5 seconds after I started the car when I could hear the engine was pulling air from the filter assembly, and then I sounded just as good as always.


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## leopard (May 1, 2015)

macaddict111 said:


> You can also go for 504 00, but this is oil for low-mileage cars where it's infrequently changed and can stay in there for up to 2 years (?).


Incorrect, VAG 504 is a superior oil compared to 502 and is designed for extended drain intervals and consequently higher mileages incurred from this.

You really need to proof read these DIY chestnuts you insist on carrying out...


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

Good post!
I did however an oil change recently with a 3rd party workshop (ATU). I brought my own oil, while they delivered the filter. The whole thing was 25or30€ for change+filter (drain method) with 39,60€ for oil (6l of Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W30 in my case).
Not much cash tbh, I got the oil I wanted and had a time for an extra coffee


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## chelspeed (May 6, 2017)

leopard said:


> You really need to proof read these DIY chestnuts you insist on carrying out...


 Every post on any subject you reply with some derogatory reply that puts down the poster and doesn't add anything useful. If you're so offended by everything on this forum why not stay away and let people who are interested enjoy it?

Thank you to the original poster for his useful and informative post. While, as an engineer, I would never dream of draining oil by any method but through the drain plug it's nice to know alternatives exist. And yes I'm sure the dealers do it that way.


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## macaddict111 (Jun 13, 2018)

The 502/504 thing is a bit confusing, that's why I left the (?) in my post. 504 is likely a higher spec, but I'm never sure if it's good for more miles. Whatever the case, I just don't need it since I drive lots of miles.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, 504/507 oil is designed for extended oil services & more miles between oil changes & not just for low mileage.
504/507 is the latest recommended oil spec whatever the in-between service mileage, in the UK anyway.
Hoggy.


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## macaddict111 (Jun 13, 2018)

Thanks Hoggy!


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

IIRC 502 if fixed interval, while 504 is for variable schedule.
Overall the lubricating properties may be even better in 502, but 504 deteriorates less over time, thus "longlife" marking. There is no simply better or worse between those two. If I was pushing my engine hard, I'd rather use 502, but since most of the time I use the car for "normal driving" I tend to go with one that allows longer change intervals.

Edit: seems I was typing too slow Hoggy


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

macaddict111 said:


> Thanks Hoggy!


Hi, Yes, best to get rid of any personal remarks before it escalates, difficult to edit then.
Hoggy.


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## leopard (May 1, 2015)

chelspeed said:


> leopard said:
> 
> 
> > You really need to proof read these DIY chestnuts you insist on carrying out...
> ...


Not always Mr. You would know if I was put out.

Check out the last DIY article by the same author, you'll see I was quite complimentary until I was accused quite incorrectly that I was putting others in danger for stating a correct fact about brake fluids that time round lol.

It might be prudent to check your facts before squawking.


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