# Replacing Central Comfort Module. Need a bit of help.



## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Hello everyone!

FIrst of all, I must say I've been searching and reading about this topic for weeks on the internet but I can't find answers to some doubts. I've tested and cleared the VAG COM error codes a couple of times, all related to the CCM. This is the last log:

Chassis Type: 8N (8N - Audi TT (1999 > 2007))

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

VIN: TRUZZZ8N621028308

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: None

Part No: 8N

Component: Zentralverrieg. D06

Coding: 32767

Shop #: WSC 131071

VCID: 8603F093A2D2762E2EF-4DD6

72 Faults Found:

01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01572 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Passenger Side

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01373 - Alarm triggered by Radio Ground Contact

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01558 - Contact Switch in Locking Cyl; Driver Side; Close (F241)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01557 - Contact Switch in Locking Cyl; Driver Side; Open (F241)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01563 - Interior Lock Switch; Driver Side (E150); Lock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01564 - Interior Lock Switch; Driver Side (E151); Unlock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00947 - Trunk Lid remote Control Switch (E188)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01565 - Luggage Compartment Light (W3)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01565 - Luggage Compartment Light (W3)

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

00991 - Interior Lights

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01616 - Signal Wire to Interior Monitor

36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

01568 - Signal for Convenience Opening

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01569 - Signal for Convenience Closing

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01616 - Signal Wire to Interior Monitor

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01616 - Signal Wire to Interior Monitor

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01357 - Tank Flap Locking Motor (V155)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01555 - Motors for Central Locking; Save [Safe?]

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01556 - Motors for Central Locking; Unlock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00955 - Key 1

09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

00956 - Key 2

09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

00957 - Key 3

09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

00958 - Key 4

09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

01570 - Turn-Off Delay; Terminal 15

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01570 - Turn-Off Delay; Terminal 15

28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

01559 - Drivers Door

58-10 - Can't Lock - Intermittent

01560 - Passenger Door

58-10 - Can't Lock - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

01559 - Drivers Door

59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

01560 - Passenger Door

59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

01559 - Drivers Door

60-10 - Won't Safe - Intermittent

01560 - Passenger Door

60-10 - Won't Safe - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

01559 - Drivers Door

61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent

01560 - Passenger Door

61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent

01141 - Luggage Compartment Unlocking Switch (E165)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

01552 - Motor for Central Locking; Drivers Door (V56); Lock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01553 - Motor for Central Locking; Passenger Door (V57); Lock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01554 - Motors for Central Locking; Rear Doors; Lock

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00949 - Central Locking Motor - tailgate (V53); LOCK

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)

31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

01581 - Incorrect Component Detected

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01379 - Interior Monitor Switch (E183)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01618 - Automatic Convertible Top Valve 2 (N272)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01109 - Hydraulic Pump Relay (J321)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal

30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

01482 - Motors for Central Locking

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00951 - Tailgate Central Locking Motor Relay (J398)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01586 - Locking Cylinder Contact Switch; Passenger Side (F242); Close

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01585 - Locking Cylinder Contact Switch; Passenger Side (F242); Open

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01615 - Tank Door Remote Unlocking Switch (E204)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01092 - Switch For Stowed Canopy (F171)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

01091 - Switch Front Canopy (F202)

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

00000 - End of output

00-00 - -

00000 - End of output

00-10 - - - Intermittent

01617 - Please Check DTC Memory of Interior Monitoring

35-10 - - - Intermittent

01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)

76-10 - Terminal 30 missing - Intermittent

As you can see, there are many error codes, and all or almost all of them repeat after clearing them. I tested it because I haven't been able to use or recode my key fobs trying every single method I've found. So after reading a lot, I've come to the conclusion that I need to replace the CCM.

Apparently, I need to find one that is compatible with my car but it only says " Part No: 8N", and the number is not complete as I can find in other websites, something like this "8N2837015". Therefore, I don't know which one to buy.

Secondly, I've only found where the CCM is in a TT Roadster, but not a Coupe. I don't want to take the car to a dealer since they will charge a lot.

To sum up, do you guys know what the number compatible with my car is? Where can I find the CCM so I can try to replace it myself?

Thank you very much in advance.

Cheers.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

I'm removing all mine as part of my track project. On a coupe it's behind the LH side rear seat.

VT


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Left Hand side, rear seat. Thank you very much! I will have a look. Can I access from the trunk or do I have to remove the back seat?


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

JoshN said:


> Left Hand side, rear seat. Thank you very much! I will have a look. Can I access from the trunk or do I have to remove the back seat?


The latter.

VT


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Coupe CCM starts with 8N8, Roadsters start with 8N7. Can give you the full Roadster part no if you need it. Coupe CCM on ebay around £30, Roadster CCM is £200+


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Thank you very much for the info. I think I can get the number through Vag Com, accessing Central Locking rather than running a test.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Mine's available soon.

VT


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Hello, guys

I've tried accessing the central locking module through Vag Com and I can't get the part number of the comfort module yet, all it shows is 8N.

Can someone tell me which one should I buy for a coupe? I know there is a difference between roadster and coupe modules but I can't tell if within coupes there are several numbers too.

I would appreciate any help.


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

As always the part number is standard but the last letter changes as the car gets older, if you can get to it and unplug it the number will be on it so then replace and get a new or used part ok 8N 896 22 67 E or B at the end.

Stevie


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Part No.s No idea why D, or E

8N8 962 267 D,or E

Hoggy


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi, roadster is 8N7962267 then could be an A B C D E which I think are supercesion numbers and don't really matter. The coupe number is 8N8962267 and then the same with the letters after it. Roadster modules cost anything between £120 -£200 and coupes are from £30 - £80 second hand. I don't think that you can code a coupe module to a roadster but you can code a roadster to a coupe although why you would spend £200 on a roadster module to fit it to a coupe when you can buy a coupe module for much less. I stand to be corrected on any of the above. I only found all this out as I have just had to fork out for a roadster module. By the way Audi stealers want £600 to fit and code a module on a roadster.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Drat, beaten to it again by Hoggy :lol:


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Thank you so much! I didn't know what the different letters meant. Mine is a 2002 TT coupe and I would like to know which one to buy before pulling it out to save time. I really need to replace it. I'll keep searching!

It seems it is the "A" as everyone I find for coupes between 2000-02 are A.

Edit: Now I find some with letter B that claim to fit coupes from 2000 to 2005. :?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

JoshN said:


> Thank you so much! I didn't know what the different letters meant. Mine is a 2002 TT coupe and I would like to know which one to buy before pulling it out to save time. I really need to replace it. I'll keep searching!
> 
> It seems it is the "A" as everyone I find for coupes between 2000-02 are A.


Hi, Would have helped if you had stated it's a 2002.

8N8 962 267,without suffix or A or B are listed for 2002.
control unit for central
locking
and
anti-theft alarm system
Hoggy.


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Would have helped if you had stated it's a 2002.
> 
> 8N8 962 267,without suffix or A or B are listed for 2002.
> control unit for central
> ...


I'm sorry, at first I had no idea what letters meant and I didn't expect them to be related to car's year.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, No probs, I was surprised so many different suffixes.
Hoggy.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hoggy, as you seem to have the info what are the suffixes c d and e year wise ? I thought they were just supercession numbers. Thanks.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

black9146 said:


> Hoggy, as you seem to have the info what are the suffixes c d and e year wise ? I thought they were just supercession numbers. Thanks.


Hi, C is up to & inc 2002, D & E are listed for 2003 & onwards.
Hoggy.


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Mine's a 2002. (I'm sure at some point the penny will drop :wink: )

VT


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Von Twinzig said:


> Mine's a 2002. (I'm sure at some point the penny will drop :wink: )
> 
> VT


Hi, Is it avail to purchase ? I believe someone is looking for one. :lol: :lol: :wink: 
Hoggy.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Your fault list says coding: 32767

Is this the coding you've got shown on VCDS when you open module 35 Central Locking ?

I went through loads of problems a couple of months back - I fitted a new audio head-unit and my remote locking stopped working.
Had loads of random fault codes, none of them made sense. The reason was module 35 had lost its coding. 32767 does not look like a valid code to me.
There's a method of calculating the soft code, depending on what functions you want on your car.

The code I used in the end was 7886. Try changing to this code then program your remotes, you need to clear all the remotes then program all you remotes in one hit.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi, would anyone know if it would make any difference if you used an A or B suffix on a 2003 year car ? If the module is being recoded to another car would it matter ?


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Yes, that's the code it shows when I access module 35. I was also thinking that code didn't seem normal. Do you think all this errors could disappear recoding the CCM?

I have also thought about this but as I didn't know a proper code to use, I haven't tried it yet. I was thinking of replacing it eventually as I'm tired of it, it's been 3 months already with error codes, always 72, always module 35


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

gerontius said:


> The code I used in the end was 7886. Try changing to this code then program your remotes, you need to clear all the remotes then program all you remotes in one hit.


There's another code that shows when you try to change it in VCDS, do I need to change that as well? Can't recall the name exactly, it appears just below the soft code.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

Use code 7886, this gives you:
unlock drivers door on first remote press
unlock passenger door on second press
flash indicators on locking & unlocking
does not give you auto locking at 15mph - I didn't want that.

then delete all your remotes, and re-program them in pos 1, 2, 3, 4 depending how many keys you have.

sounds like your coding has got corrupted.


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Excellent, I will try that tomorrow.

EDIT: I've read that sometimes the codes reset and it happens apparently because the new code isn't valid. Assuming yours is valid, which is, could it reset because of a malfunctioning CCM? I just wonder in case it happens.

Cheers.


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## gerontius (Aug 27, 2016)

JoshN said:


> Excellent, I will try that tomorrow.
> 
> EDIT: I've read that sometimes the codes reset and it happens apparently because the new code isn't valid. Assuming yours is valid, which is, could it reset because of a malfunctioning CCM? I just wonder in case it happens.
> 
> Cheers.


Josh
I thought my CCM was faulty & bought a used one off eBay, but never fitted it - because by the time it was delivered I'd worked out the correct code & everything was resolved. 
Without a valid soft code configured, when you clear the fault codes you will also delete all your remotes.
It's a few weeks since I had this issue; it took me ages to get to the bottom of it.
John

ps - just my guess, but I think the roadster modules are more expensive because they are susceptible to water ingress, therefore fewer good used ones are out there.


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

That is good news then! I hope your code is valid for my CCM too. I'm learning a lot about this over the last months. I've had my TT for 4 months only ^^


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Yes, prone to water ingress on the roadster due to where Audi in their wisdom installed them, also fewer roadsters sold than coupe's


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

I havw just tried your code and several others, including workshop code and either it says they are invalid or they reset to previous invalid codes.

Is this a symptom that the ccm is malfunctioning?

EDIT: I tried removing back seats as I was told and apparently the ccm is close to the CD charger but I haven't removed the trim. I wanted to be sure that is exactly there. Any ideas?

Thanks once again!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Hoggy said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> > Mine's a 2002. (I'm sure at some point the penny will drop :wink: )
> ...


Maybe I'm being too subtle Hogster? :roll:

VT


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Am I that person? :*

Anyway, I'm still struggling with it. I feel Im getting closer to recoding it properly. I think you said you knew exactly where the ccm is.

I can't find anywhere a diagram or picture showing the steps or the exact point where it is.


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

While since I was in my rear compartment, I remember it being to the rear of the passenger side rear speaker about the same height just further back, bigger than a packer of cigarettes but smaller than a paperback it's a black plastic gizmo. I would suggest removing the rear side panel trim and you should then see it, get the part numbers from it and drive around with the trim off then when you get the thing change over and hopefully all better its a straightforward operation.

Stevie


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Thank you for your reply! It is behind the passenger's seat. Now I understand it. You see, I'm from Spain and as we drive on the right, the driver's seat is on the left. So, in my case, I have to check the right side. Now it all makes sense, thank you!


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Its black plastic with five connectors on it. Size approx. 17cm x 15cm x 2cm


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Hi again!

I've found this picture from a guy who changed the speaker in that side. So could you tell me which exactly the ccm is? Is it there under the speaker?

http://www.audiforums.com/forum/attachm ... peaker.jpg


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

No, can't see it in that photo. On the Roadster its on the other side approx. level with the backrest. I can't get a photo of mine as its in the garage at the moment.


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

Mmm maybe because that is the side behind the driver's seat... I don't know. Can you see there the cd changer? if so, it is the wrong side. Am I right?

Sometimes it is difficult to know if the picture is of UK cars or EU/US, because of the driver's seat being on the opposite side.


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## JoshN (Jul 30, 2016)

I wanted to say that I finally ordered the new CCM and replaced it today. It took some hours because it was the first time I did something like this.

After replacing it, I tested with Vag Com and it showed 0 faults. I tried coding the key through vag com and channel 21 and it worked like a charm. Everything is perfect now and I only spent 45€ compared to the 500-600€ that It would have cost in a dealer.

Thank you everyone for your help!

Merry Christmas!


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## Talulah (Nov 14, 2018)

Hi, I hope somebody can help me

Both my roadster fobs don't work, I've replaced the batteries & tried the fob programming instructions from the handbook & a few other instructions I came across online, even took the CCM out, opened it & cleaned with contact cleaner, reinstalled it & it's no change. So I'm now thinking of replacing the CCM, if I do this will it need programming or is it plug & play?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Replacement CCM will need to be coded to the car.
EDIT - if all the other functions that the CCM controls work ok then maybe you just need to resync your fobs. Info on here if you do a search.


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## keith1204 (Apr 10, 2021)

Hello everyone

I am new on here and have a question about everyone's most fun part on a TT...the CCM. I have a 2001 TT Roadster (base) and it needs a new CCM. I understand the part # is 8N7962267 (mine is an A), can I use a B and have it reprogramed for my car?? Will it need to be reprogrammed for my car? I look forward to any help that I can get and thanks in advance.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

keith1204 said:


> Hello everyone
> 
> I am new on here and have a question about everyone's most fun part on a TT...the CCM. I have a 2001 TT Roadster (base) and it needs a new CCM. I understand the part # is 8N7962267 (mine is an A), can I use a B and have it reprogramed for my car?? Will it need to be reprogrammed for my car? I look forward to any help that I can get and thanks in advance.


Hi, Only 8N7 962 267, 8N7 962 267A & 8N7 962 267C are listed for 2001 roadster not B & it will require recoding.
Hoggy


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

You can install a Coupe CCM in a Roadster and it will work fine except the motorized top won't work anymore. I came across 2 Coupe CCM's recently, sold them both on Ebay to Roadster owners and they both said it worked fine. Except for the top. 
The advantage is a Coupe CCM would be much much cheaper.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

Wonder if anyone might have any advice. This is a looong story (with all attendant learning curve, sigh, lol) so i'l keep it as short as poss. : My TT Roadster CCM went down in Nov '20 (after 24 hours major rain and a trip on a car transporter to my local garage).

5 main elements not working: Windows not fully closing up / interior lights don't come on when door opened / boot / petrol cap / roof doesn't work.

1) Garage mechanic was unable to get it working. But on my drive home everything started working with windows dropping slightly then going back up flush?? Two days later... nothing.

2) Left the sitch until better UK weather to try and tackle (using advice from forums such as this). Early Apr got new garage to get the CCM out (I now can do this easily). Got some alcohol 99% and old toothbrush. No luck...

But got in car and went for a drive (car stands a lot so battery getting some power?) and interior light flickered. By the time i got home everything was working bar the windows fully closing up! Lovely!

3) Next day - nothing.

4) 9/11/21 - Took it back out, repeated clean process (note one of the pins appears very, very slightly corroded - so will check that again today). Everything started working again bar the windows closing flush.

Went out for a drive and now ONLY petrol cap and boot working... then ten mins later interior lights coming on.

It's all very frustrating as the CCM appears to want to work but is very temperamental.

Any clues from any of you good chaps out there? : )


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Check battery voltage, at rest. Should be at least 13.8V.
Then check it under load, ignition on, main headlights on, engine not running (ie don't start it).
Battery voltage should be 12V.
I suggest this, because your intermittent symptoms sound like low battery to me.
Get a charger on the battery, one that'll deliver 4 or 5 amps.
Mac.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

PlasticMac said:


> Check battery voltage, at rest. Should be at least 13.8V.
> Then check it under load, ignition on, main headlights on, engine not running (ie don't start it).
> Battery voltage should be 12V.
> I suggest this, because your intermittent symptoms sound like low battery to me.
> ...


Mac - Thank you. Bearing in mind i mentioned a bit of a battery issue I was suspecting this could be the case (esp. with more working as the car runs).

Best,

Brian


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

beej2108 said:


> PlasticMac said:
> 
> 
> > Check battery voltage, at rest. Should be at least 13.8V.
> ...


Hi, Don't expect 13.8 volts, 12.8 volts perhaps, is more likely.
Hoggy.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

Thank you, Hoggy. Lol.


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Don't expect 13.8 volts, 12.8 volts perhaps, is more likely.
> Hoggy.


Sorry, my typo. 
Mac.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

Hi lads,

Now I'll be changing my battery for a Varda D15 in due course : ) That said, fully charged (my not holding charge too well) battery in the hope that most of the CCM elements would recover instantly. Disappointed to note nothing happened but for one of the interior lights (above my head) flickering each time i pressed the open the boot lid button.

Crazy frustrating seeing it all work (2 - 3 times) one minute... then 'some' of it...then none. Makes you think did you do a 'clean' too far (but then again, the inconsistency has been consistent : )

Really hope the varda power sorts it all... sigh.


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## tt92103 (Jun 4, 2015)

I would recommend download the free VCDS-Lite software and get a cheap Ebay KKL OBD2 cable, then see if you can communicate with the CCM module. If you can't communicate with the CCM, then that is a big problem. If you *can * communicate with it, read it's "Soft Coding" number and see what it is. I struggled with a strange CCM problem last year, things worked or didn't work intermittently, somehow my "Soft Coding" number had been erased, I programmed it to the correct value (with full paid VCDS) and everything has worked perfect ever since.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

tt92103 said:


> I would recommend download the free VCDS-Lite software and get a cheap Ebay KKL OBD2 cable, then see if you can communicate with the CCM module. If you can't communicate with the CCM, then that is a big problem. If you *can * communicate with it, read it's "Soft Coding" number and see what it is. I struggled with a strange CCM problem last year, things worked or didn't work intermittently, somehow my "Soft Coding" number had been erased, I programmed it to the correct value (with full paid VCDS) and everything has worked perfect ever since.


Thank you, TT92103


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

All the evaluations have been very helpful,thank you all.

Bearing in mind how many times the m/ board tried to work (with a battery not at it's best) I wish i'd have realised that the was most likely the issue at the time. That last little clean with light use of a pin to scrape away some tiny 'debris' is what i feel has compromised my board.

Now just to find someone who can refurb / solder as that job will most likely take 10 minutes...sigh.


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

beej2108 said:


> All the evaluations have been very helpful,thank you all.
> 
> Bearing in mind how many times the m/ board tried to work (with a battery not at it's best) I wish i'd have realised that the was most likely the issue at the time. That last little clean with light use of a pin to scrape away some tiny 'debris' is what i feel has compromised my board.
> 
> Now just to find someone who can refurb / solder as that job will most likely take 10 minutes...sigh.


So, my main task was to avoid: The mobile electrician wanting to carry out a couple of hours checks (cheques  to try and communicate with the CCM / The main dealer doing the $ame - only to suggest you need a new board / The guy who can't quote 'as he needs to see the board'...and then presents you with an unwelcome bill that you have to pay to get your board back - whether he fixes the issue or not.

Through Yellow pages i found a Polish guy with a small website and facebook page; 15 years electronics / phone / computer repair experience. I explained all I wrote on here earlier (so he knew I wasn't naive) and pointed out the tiny areas i believed i'd compromised with my light pin scraping of any residue. He re -laid the compromised micro- wires and re established there was connection on a couple of points (mainly on the mini -motherboard underneath the main board) placing a protective film over a tiny areas that needed it after his work.

I re-fitted the CCM, got into my car and the first thing that came on was my interior lights. Roof et al worked instantly! Next thing i will check is whether my remote locking now works and test the alarm. I am ecstatic over the result. My guy spent 45 mins, took £20 for his time and saved me anything between £200 / £600 with other options.

Hope this helps someone out there. The moral is; if the board issues aren't sorted through 99% alcohol and a toothbrush, they can pretty easily be refurbed by any individual who knows his motherboard repair...oh yes, and do NOT use a pin : )

Best,

Brian


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