# TTS Stage 2+ Who's done it? Advice please



## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

Hi guys... I've decided to get my TTS to stage 2+ and have after researching have decided to use R Tech.
Im booked in for early March so looking to get the car ready.

Cars on 42k haven't long had haldex service (with filter), S-tronic oil, Engine oil / filter and fuel filter.

Current mods:

-Scorpion 2.75" downpipe / sports cat
-Ram Air induction kit

Planned mods / Preventive maintance

-VIS hpfp internals with new oem cam follower 
- RS4 fprv
- live remap and dsg remap

- NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs
- Latest audi DV
- Latest audi PCV
- inlet, valve, injector cleaning at R Tech

Anything I have missed?

Cheers


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

I'm in the same boat, I'll be fitting a Welly cooler first though and a set of coils proactively.

Leave the RS4 valve for Niki to fit when the inlet manifold is off.

Is the 2.75" enough for stage 2+?
I thought it was 3" recommended?

How's the sports cat? Mines been on for a few months no issues at all but just recently it's started throwing P0420 code for emissions... Hopefully when mapped it will be ok.


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## leec (Oct 7, 2018)

if your engine is a 2.5 they wont touch it. they only tune 2.0 motors


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

Hi. Do you know if the intercooler makes much difference?
I've looked into 2.75" vs 3" and it doesn't seem to make a difference at this level especially when I'm still keeping the standard backbox so it's reduced down at that point anyway. I wanted to keep the car as quiet as possible.
Yeah I've had the same fault code pop up.. Cleared and hadn't come yet but I don't drive the car in the winter lol

Good tip with the rs4 valve..

My cars got 42k so think ill leave the coils for now. What mileage you on

Thanks


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

leec said:


> if your engine is a 2.5 they wont touch it. they only tune 2.0 motors


Hi, the TTS uses the 2.0 with Ko4 turbo.. The RS has the 2.5. Thanks


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

You could be right on the 2.75-3" debate... Not sure, I too have kept the stock back box which by all accounts flows pretty well.

The cooler isn't going to add any power at all, it will just make the car capable of delivering consistent power at all temps including hot lapping Santa Pod in August for example.
I have some R8 coils just because.... Um... mine are 10 years old, so why not.
Rev G diverter valve fitted the other day
New PCV fitted last year
Plugs to go in as and when.
Millers CFS oil
I've done Haldex, also got millers oils for the front and rear diffs.

Engine mounts?
I've been down the route of polybushed everything and track engine mounts in the past... Never again, I'm going to fill the OEM ones with rubber... See how that goes.


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

When rtech done my stage 2, Nikki said that the intercooler was pretty good as standard so a upgrade for stage 2+, probably isn't needed.... My problem is that I'll need a clutch upgrade :?


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Polybush not good then?.... I thought about it but got very confused with all the different options and people putting the black diesel one in a petrol engine


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

Cheers guys how about fuel pumps.. I was debating a full new upgraded hpfp but r tech said that just the internals are fine at 42k.. I've just ordered Vis internals

Ah ill keep the coils in mind.. How much are the R8 coils? Cheers


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

90 odd for the coils, be wary of fakes.

The only moving part is the internals, the vis kit is good, instructions on line.
Drill out the supply fitting to 5mm too.

Polybushes definitely do the job. But I didn't buy an Audi to put up with the additional NVH that PU bushes give.
The only reason I haven't booked in with Niki is that I haven't fitted my clutch yet. Too damn cold to roll around on the floor all day at the minute


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'm Glad you said about drilling the supply.. Come across that yesterday and found a post off Niki saying to do it 

I'm so Glad I've got the dsg one less thing to change


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

The slip and overheat though. The clutch packs still need changing at some point 

Yeah takes 30 seconds to drill the fitting out.


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'm sure Niki turns up the clamping pressure on the clutch to stop it slipping. To be honest I don't really drive fast just like the feeling of driving a powerful car :lol:


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## QS Luke (Jul 13, 2013)

Me too, pootle around nice and steady 99% of the time :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

There is alot of miss information floating about about KO4 2+ tuning, your best bet for knowledge is TFSI tuning page on facebook or speaking directly to R-tech.

Intercooler is 100% necesarry if you want to make decent torque and keep it pull after pull even in the english summers.

I'll dig my parts list out when I have the time and type something up in relation to the hardware you have on the car.

Not at all in a big headed way, thanks to the guys at rtech and their advance on hardware, they made my TTS one of the higher outputs I saw at the time over a year ago. I've since done 10k miles and its been spot on. 380hp / 410 ftlbs


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

Thanks for the info barr-end.

Not looking for maximum power and won't be putting the car on the track etc. I was initially going for just a remap but thought I might aswel spend the extra and go for it.

Yours is definitely top end number 8) how does it feel? What time of cars does it comapre with?
Cheers


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## Sophus (Apr 26, 2013)

I did APR stage 2+ As well as the APR dsg reflash. Very happy with the performance and absolutely worth it! The car is fantastic. The dsg reprogramming makes both daily driving as well as track days greatly improved. It should have been like this from the factory!
Besides APR software, I got a BCS downpipe with sports cat, new poly dog bone bushing, and a fuel pump rebuild. No intercooler. Also have the NGK spark plugs and the R8 coil packs. 
APR is high quality and "safe".


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think I'll go for the R8 coils so most of the consumables are new.

What power did you make with Apr?

How much different does it feel from standard?


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Craig_09 said:


> Hi guys... I've decided to get my TTS to stage 2+ and have after researching have decided to use R Tech.
> Im booked in for early March so looking to get the car ready.
> 
> Cars on 42k haven't long had haldex service (with filter), S-tronic oil, Engine oil / filter and fuel filter.
> ...


Maintanence wise, especially on your mileage sounds like you've done everything right.
EXHAUST - Not sure if the 2.75" diameter will limit you, however this is still far beyond the 1.5" bend the stock DP has with a 200 cell precat before and 800 cell main cat after.
Decat vs sports cat - I read alot, but once at R-tech nikki told me you gain more low torque from sport cat, and its only a few HP top end with decat. I run 100 cell race cat and performs well for me.
INDUCTION - Ramair is a good induction, flows well, its just noisey. I'm also running one.
FUEL - Any fuel pump should be fine, just got to keep eye on follower wear! I ran my autotech for 15k miles and at 12k the follower still looked fresh - however that is down to oil choice I believe - millers nano nt+ 5W40.
- RS4 FPRV is needed to allow the injector rail to run at a higher (better) pressure for more power. Get that fitted at R-tech whilst manifold is off, its stupidly fiddly to do!
MAP - As you've stated R-tech map and DSG software - both will work well.
PLUGS - BKR7's OR 8's should both work spot on at your stage of tune, I ran 8s when mine was mapped, but I was using the car daily at this point, not giving the car death at all regular, so swapped to 7s, now not a daily, thinking of swapping back to 8s. It's purely preference of what you think you'll do with the car and if the car agrees.
DV - Personally wouldn't recommed a stock DV from experience, however if you choose to get a fresh rev G which should be the rubber version, not the plastic one. I run a DV+ myself and its been fine, held boost perfectly for 2.5 years, even beyond 2 BAR boost pressure on a shit map. Also sounds good :roll: 
PCV - Not a bad idea to change as preventitive, haven't had to on my own car yet, but probably will shortly.
Inlet & injector clean/rebuild I think is worth it's while and again personally have it on my own car.

Not written in your first post but disgussed in the thread:

PLUGS - R8 coils are the sort to as they are cheaper than any other. However these TTS - TTRS - RS3 etc are all the same. All are higher ohm rated than 'stock' TFSI coils, which are prone to fail. So if your TTS ones are performing normally I wouldn't bother swapping them out. I am still on the original coils on my TTS - 10+ years and 100k + and they are still performing spot on at 2+.
INTERCOOLER - This to me is a necessary, it is also quoted on the R-tech hardware requirements on their site for KO4 2+ tuning - http://r-techperformance.co.uk/k04-tfsi ... ing-guide/
Intercooler will help release torque and power, the stock one is restrictive higher up the power chart and also inefficent.
I have a friend with a stage 2 ED30 mk5 and with our really hot temps of summer last year it was like driving a stock car around in that heat after even a single pull.
I have a 'welly' cooler (toyosport 600x300x76 with 3" outlets) fitted to my TTS and noticed 0 difference in feel at these temps, pull after pull. 
Even before this was mapped in, could feel the difference this made.
I had to custom make the pipework and a crash bar for this cooler, even with that said and done this was a much cheaper option than a bolt on option and has been proven the best flowing cooler for the TFSI, but the bolt on airtecs, wagner etc all still flow well and much better than the OEM.

All about making the most efficient hardware package to make the most out of the software is the easiest way of putting it.



Craig_09 said:


> Thanks for the info barr-end.
> 
> Not looking for maximum power and won't be putting the car on the track etc. I was initially going for just a remap but thought I might aswel spend the extra and go for it.
> 
> ...


I wasn't either - however with a 4 hour travel time, I thought I may aswell capture all of the hardware before the software and make the car the best it can be for Nikki to work his magic with mine.
I didn't much before being a daily, and it was still well worth it, but now its a weekend toy do drive the car quite hard on the road and it's just spot on. All i can really say haha.
I've also never tracked it, would love to, just don't trust people around me as much as myself whilst out there :lol:
I think take the car as far as your budget will allow before you take it down there.

Haven't raced a great deal - Misses stock A45 AMG - mine pulls away, even being manual, only around a car length to a ton, be interested to see this result once hers is mapped, I reckon it'll kill it.
- Mates CLA45 - was exactly the same result as with the misses 45 but worse, for him :lol: probably due to the weight.
- Tuned not sure what, I'd assume just a map, but was loud and smokey M135I - Couldnt shake me from a few feet off his bumper the entire time.
- Highly tuned GTR - huge amounts of smoke, out of stupid sized exhuasts, lowered, wheels, brakes, carbon, big gay wing. IE no expense spared. Yes it left me, of course it was going to, but not like, goodbye, just pulled 5-8 car lengths to ton plus a half.

They are the easiest ones from memory talking about straight line speed but I much prefer playing in the twisties and on roundabouts. 
Surprises cars that people believe are untouchable - god knows why but most boxster/cayman and some older 911 owners, thats always fun. Espeically when they see my big gay wing pull past :roll:

This is my tuning hardware for anyone interested or if it helps, full list of mods is much bigger :lol: 
Helix organic clutch & braided clutch line
Forge short shifter, draft42 shifter end link bushes, OEM metal relay shifer, diesel geek slider 
GFB DV+ valve
Ramair induction kit
Milltek Full exhaust - 100 cel race cat & non-res
Toyosport 'welly' intercooler (600x300x76mm plate & bar core) - 2.5" custom pipework into creation motrosport charge & discharge pipes with turbo muffler
Loba HPFP
RS4 FPRV
AKS runner flap delete
Millers nano 5W40 nt+ oil
R-tech custom map + inlet & injector clean


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## Craig_09 (Jul 20, 2015)

Wow, Barr_end. Thanks for taking the time to write that very detailed reply!

Maintenance - it's good to know I've covered everything.

My car runs perfectly on the standard coils, was only going to change them for piece of mind.. Perhaps I'll ask r tech about this. Im sure they will have them in stock and if I do happen to have a problem on map day they will be quick to replace. Can't belive the R8 coils are the same as TTS etc and cheaper.. Strange lol

Downpipe size - ill put a post up on the Tfsi tuning page just to check. I've read it will be easily enough for stage 2+
RS4 valve R tech are supplying and fitting for £80 on the day 

Downpipe - I've also looked into the dv+ but seems like too many people having problems. I'll put the rev G in and treat it as a maintenance item.

Intercooler - interesting points there and sounds like yours is working well. Really don't want to change too much of the car. Hope I don't regret this. I have read the TTS intercooler isnt that bad..

Be interesting to see what numbers I make 

Pretty impressive list on your car.. Definitely a labour of love lol
Sounds like it compares to some serious cars.. Can't wait


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## Sophus (Apr 26, 2013)

Craig_09 said:


> I think I'll go for the R8 coils so most of the consumables are new.
> 
> What power did you make with Apr?
> 
> How much different does it feel from standard?


Not been on a dyno, but according to APR the performance on the octane I run is 362 hp. The difference from stock is like night and day.

https://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgr ... ans_r.html


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