# MK2 on a budget! yes or no?



## zwaveTT (Jun 18, 2021)

Want a budget-friendly 2 door coupe that's reliable and not an MX5! What better choice than a TT, right?

Thing is, I have a tight budget of £4000 and I'm looking for something that doesn't need serious work. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Is it possible to get a 2.0T FSI in decent condition for this price or will it come with some 'unwanted features'? Turning 25yo next month and looking for a decent upgrade! 

Cheers!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

At the bottom end of the scale it will be risky. Likely to be high mileage or poor condition, but if you are capable of DIY maintenance it might be ok?


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Unfortunately it's be a no from me mate, these cars can get very expensive very quickly. Might be an initial bargain price for the car itself but parts and labour aren't, unless you can do a fair bit of DIY. IMO you'd have to search a fair bit to find one with a good independent SH, don't be fooled by a useless collection of main dealer stamps, they're meaningless.

I've spent 2K getting mine into tip top running condition, paid 6K for the car itself.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

I paid £3800 for mine with 103,000 miles on it.It is in good condition but as soon as I got it i had full service including dsg service and cambelt and have done many other things as well.with all the maintenance and mods i think im about 10k in on it now :lol:


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

You made be able to find a older high mileage car for cheap but the price for repair parts never goes down.

Sports car parts tend to command a higher price than the equivalent for passenger vehicles, and Audi-specific parts command a premium (partially because of the name) when compared to brands like Toyota, Ford, etc.

In order to squeeze decent power out of a relatively small (2.0L) engine, it needs to be pushed pretty hard. You may get lucky, but reliability is only 'fair' for these cars. Gas mileage is ok but fuel savings is offset by the fact that you should be using high-octane premium fuel

If you're unfortunate enough to require 'dealer' service prepare to get 'bent-over'. 
Even if you can do your own work, be prepared to purchase some specialized tools (i.e VagCom, low profile floor jack, spline set, etc)

And then you have 'wear' items like tires and brakes. Nothing more ridiculous than a performance vehicle hobbled with cheap rubber. One could easily drop $1k on tires alone.

I love my Audi, but would never recommend one to someone on a budget


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

I can't say what used values are like where you are but they are highly inflated over here, which presumably should be everywhere given the scapegoats for these prices these days are things like covid, pandemic, "chip shortage", etc.

As others have said looking for low priced examples is typically going to find you in higher mileage, poorer condition, needs repair or major maintenance items, etc. At least in UK you might have the 1.8T FWD (?) which would make for cheaper examples.

In any event "on a budget" is never a good idea for any car IMO; but this one, unless you plan on doing all maintenance and repair items yourself and are comfortable with part prices then I would say "no" especially talking about a "tight budget" of only 4000 pounds.

Even if you find one that doesn't need any serious "work" in terms of repairs, it may well need major maintenance items done like the timing belt, major fluid changes (trans, coolant); might need tyres, maybe brakes; etc.

When I bought my S last year, a car with about 185k km (115k mi) I got a car that was pretty much cheaper than most others on the market but still had an interior in great shape, and was never modded or abused, and drives awesome. Basically it came time for the major maintenance items on the car, so the prev. owner got rid of it. Now I fully expected to do several things on the car after I bought it, most of which I've already completed. This will give you an idea of some costs:

*More major items* (with _approx_. costs in CAD):
-New brakes all around, pads, rotors $500
-New CHMSL $50 (aftermarket)
(The above were the_ only _things needed for the car to pass certification at purchase time.)

-Had wheels refinished $600 (one had a hidden bend and also needed repair)
-New tyres $800 (tyres were fine on the car--Potenzas with lots of tread--but I don't drive on no-seasons so away those went)
-Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, pulleys $250
-Timing chain, tensioner $100
-Intake-off carbon cleaning $40 (few cans of CRC GDI cleaner, can of TB cleaner)
-DSG fluid & filter $80

*Some minor/things done along the way*:
-Valve cover gasket
-Oil change & filter
-Cam follower
-New OEM PCV
-Dipstick and dipstick tube 
-Sunvisor clip
-Hood release lever
--Lets say $250ish for all that^ stuff?

*Cleanup*:
-Paint decon/correction/polish, ceramic coating
-Interior detail, leather cleaning and conditioning (interior actually in very good shape but still done)
Above two are mostly own labour as most detailing stuff is already owned; but $100 for a CQ UK 3.0 kit for the coating.
-New liner-type floor mats $120

*Things I still need to do*:
-Haldex fluid, filter $120
-Rear magride shocks and mounts (not even going to talk about what this stuff costs LOL!)
-Fuel filter $45
(Already have the parts for these above just need to get to it lol)

-Front magride struts (again cost is very high, going to be around $2500 or so)

Now the Magneride shocks/struts are insanely expensive and I wouldn't imagine you'd be buying a car with that but keep in mind regular shocks/struts though _much_ cheaper might require replacement as well.

None of these are really unexpected or unplanned expenses, and there is nothing "wrong with the car" per se--runs and drives great and did when I bought it. However I knew I would be doing these things from the time I bought the car and budgeted accordingly. With the exception of refinishing the wheels and mounting the new tyres on them, everything above was done/will be *done by myself in terms of labour*. Consider that some of these things could be very expensive to have a mechanic/shop do for you.

Anyway basically the *total of things* above not accounting for my own labour *was a little over $3,000*, not counting the magride and not counting other items I didn't mention (mods). I installed an aftermarket downpipe and rebuilt the HPFP with the upgraded Autotech piston--so that's around another $1300? Plus need to have the TCU and ECU tuned, hopefully in the next couple weeks, which will be somewhere around $1200. Also spent a bunch of money on yet-to-be-installed stereo stuff. But even if you don't count the mod/upgrade stuff, it was still *some* money and a *lot* of work.

Keep in mind what the car (whatever trim, engine, etc. you buy) was priced at *when it was new*. As mentioned by others, car still cost the same to repair and maintain as a car of that price, regardless of how old it is.

Getting one with the major maintenance items done already would be a good idea for sure but "cheap used Mk2s" are almost certainly going to have to have a lot of other things tended to and done. It's very unlikely to find a cheap example that needs nothing and has had major maintenance and wear items either already done or have low enough miles to not be on the horizon for years. *In other words if you budget low for the car itself, you still need to budget for the things you will need to do on it. * For example that $3k I spent doing things, combined with the purchase price was _still_ cheaper than a lot of lower mileage examples. Plus those lower mileage cars would eventually need these things done anyway so I feel better having done them on this car and gotten it over with. The fact that used car values have skyrocketed the last 6-8 months is some icing on the cake but not like I'm going to sell the car now anyway.

The magride is another story in my case but I did plan on replacing it within two years when I purchased it and again it's something that will probably need replacing within a few more years if I'd bought a lower-mileage vehicle anyway. If you don't want to see these kind of costs...obviously don't even look at a car with magride lol.

Finally, since my car is pretty high mileage for its age the hood and front bumper are pitted/chipped quite a lot. I plan on getting these repainted but not until _after_ I take a cross-US roadtrip, but I'll have to wait for the border to open to even think about it. Anyway that'll probably be another $2k or so...


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I am of the same opinion as all of the above posts- cheap cars are usually expensive mistakes.

My question is what's so wrong with an MX-5?

Lightweight, rear wheel drive, based on the classic Lotus Elan and more fun than you can shake a stick at for very reasonable running costs!

Wanna learn all about oversteer and car control? An MX5 is your friend! Great track day presence, a fantastic owners club and all at a price TT owners can only dream of.

My advice is to go for an MX-5, live and learn how to drive it, enjoy every second and then retire to a nice steady surefooted old mans TT&#8230;&#8230;. :lol:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I quite enjoy my 2007 Roadster 3.2 VR6 Roadster, but honestly would not recommend it. The only reason I have one is because Honda quit making the S2000.

Having owned a Mazda Miata (MX5) and two Honda S2000's, if you're on a budget for a Roadster, stick with Japanese built cars and avoid Audi all together.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I would recommend a TT to an older someone that has been through MGs, Lotus Elises, MX5s etc as a comfortable cruising car, I am referring to the drop top variants and not coupes, haven't had a tin top Sunday/track car for years

Mrs Happy loves the TT for its quiet mile munching ability, would be great for getting to the track, but don't think I would enjoy it when there&#8230;.gimme an MX5, MGTF, Elise any day

Love the S2Ks, Ooh, that engine/exhaust note&#8230;..


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## True-blue (Oct 25, 2019)

It's a no from me too.

Currently have a TTs as a weekend toy, and it's a great car, but if I was looking at fun on a budget I'd be looking at a 3.0 Z4 straight 6.

Prices have gone a bit silly, so now's not a great time to buy&#8230; but under normal market conditions £4K will buy a very decent E85 convertible. I appreciate you've said coupe, but honestly I've owned the E85 and E86 and the convertible is more fun - E86's are massively over £4K anyway.

The M54 engine is incredibly reliable, no turbo to worry about and easy to work on. Plenty of people track them too, they're a bit go-cart like and old now, but great fun if it's fun you want. Just need to wait a few months and IMHO the current price bubble will burst.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

This is how much my cheap tt cost me


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I'm going to go against the thread here :twisted:

I would say go for it *but* only after you've done all of your homework on the car, have given in a thorough physical and digital inspection. Go away and think about what you've seen. Then go and inspect again, test drive, and bring a frind with you to look at the car with fresh eyes and a different perspective.

Not sure about where you are but we can have bragains that have high mileage however they are what is known as "country cars". Where the odo is clocked up due to driving (mainly cruising) from country town to country town or many commutes from city to country town and back. This means the engines are usually not stressed and, more than likely, reliable.

I won't say how much i got mine for cuz it'll make you  but for the purpose of what i had planned - it did the trick.

Go for it but
- have the right tools
- phone a friend
- check the car out a few times
- drive it
- know the platform so you know what you're looking at

Do you have an option where you can pay someone to look at the car with an unbiased opinion? We have that here where a main insurer can be called and they nominate a mechanic to go out and inspect the car you're interested in. Would be worth it especially if you're not familiar with the platform and lack sound knowledge of the platform.


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Do what you want to do. All cars have a cost risk element. Just need to do your research.


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## zwaveTT (Jun 18, 2021)

Wow.

For a first post on any car forum, it's been a bloody warm welcome! 

Thank you all so much for the replies and different viewpoints! I enjoyed reading through everyone's comments and it's really shed some light on my situation.

I think I'll play the safe game and not go for a MK2! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I was looking at the 8N but have seen some MK2's for lowish prices and wondered if it would possible on my budget. Even stumbled across one out for a walk yesterday! Had a peak and the guy came out and asked if I wanted to go out in it. Sure enough, I did and I bloody loved it! It was priced at £4700 and had a pretty savage clunk going round corners + speedbumps. I thought it might be bushings or suspension but I received a call earlier letting me know that it's a faulty drop link. Didn't put great confidence in that particular one and the interior looked like it needed some love but damn did it spark something in me. 

I'll review my options and try to broaden the search up. Will still consider the MX5 but damn, after the smiles that car put on my face yesterday, I think I'm nearly sold.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you really have your heart set on a Mk2, try to find one with as few of the costly extras as possible. For example, avoid Audi Magnetic Ride (AMR) or "Mag Shocks" as they are stupid expensive to replace and really have little value in the way of every day driving. Then there's All Wheel Drive (AWD) also known as "Haldex". Avoid any TT with this as it will eliminate the entire rear end and the Cardan shaft (drive shaft) so that's a massive savings since you'll never have to worry about them. This will not only save you the maintenance and repair costs later on, it will also help keep the initial price down.

Do your homework on which engine/year you go with, since some of the early 2.0's were plagued with piston ring issues and high oil consumption. Personally, I went with a 3.2 VR6 because I didn't want the associated costs of a turbo and (IMHO) it's a major PITA to work on since it's tucked so far behind the engine.

From what I understand (anyone chime in if I'm off base) the manual transmission is less prone to issues unlike the S Tronic which is a dual clutch, Direct-Shift Gearbox (DSG) which has had it's fair share of issues too. A manual gear box will also be less expensive.

When you do find a TT that looks interesting, have a mechanic go over it and also request an full OBD diagnostic fault scan to find any stored faults which may be present. If a seller refuses either inspection as part of the pre-sale agreement, walk away.

There are a boat load of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that Audi has issued over the years from minor issues like annoying rattles in the A-pillars, to major oil consumption problems with some engines. We have a full list of TSBs in the Knowledge Base if you want to go through them and get an idea of what to be on the look out for while you're searching for the Mk2 of your dreams! 

*FAQ - Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1687826

.


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I went for manual fwd 2.0tfsi but opted for the EA888 TSI engine. No haldex or dsg to worry about, car has been faultless for the 17 months I've had it. Mine's a 2011 model so will be a bit more expensive to buy.


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## Shinycar (Apr 7, 2020)

chrisj82 said:


> This is how much my cheap tt cost me


Love your videos mate, very honest and humorous. I have a feeling you love throwing money at the car ! 
You must have a decent job and even more decent other half !


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Shinycar said:


> chrisj82 said:
> 
> 
> > This is how much my cheap tt cost me
> ...


cheers mate  I never really thought I spent that much, in my head it was always about 10k  I was shocked when I actually added it up. Its properly the most expensive cheap TT in the country :lol:
The next one I'm going to set myself a budget and try and stick to it


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

zwaveTT said:


> I think I'll play the safe game and not go for a MK2! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> ...after the smiles that car put on my face yesterday, I think I'm nearly sold.


Hmm these statement seem contradictory, lol.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Then there's All Wheel Drive (AWD) also known as "Haldex". Avoid any TT with this as it will eliminate the entire rear end and the Cardan shaft (drive shaft) so that's a massive savings since you'll never have to worry about them. This will not only save you the maintenance and repair costs later on, it will also help keep the initial price down.


Though at the same time the AWD car will eliminate wheel spin, wheel hop, and has less to worry about upgrading things like bushings, mounts, etc. when upping the power as in with a remap and other mods.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Do your homework on which engine/year you go with, since some of the early 2.0's were plagued with piston ring issues and high oil consumption.


Early ones? I though the early EA888s with VL were the worst for this issue. While some EA113s as well, I'm sure I think the piston ring problem in particular was on the VL engine.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Personally, I went with a 3.2 VR6 because I didn't want the associated costs of a turbo and (IMHO) it's a major PITA to work on since it's tucked so far behind the engine.


Well the 3.2L is also shoehorned in there itself, no? LOL. Plus doing the timing chains on that engine seems a lot more of a nightmare than the timing belt on the EA113s, or even the chain on the EA888...



SwissJetPilot said:


> From what I understand (anyone chime in if I'm off base) the manual transmission is less prone to issues unlike the S Tronic which is a dual clutch, Direct-Shift Gearbox (DSG) which has had it's fair share of issues too. A manual gear box will also be less expensive.


DQ250 DSGs mainly have their issues from late 07 to late 11 I would say--lots of them had defective MUs in that timeframe. Interestingly ones prior to that didn't have issues, and the ones later had them rectified. It was almost like they had some issues with parts from a supplier and/or they cheaped out on certain parts in the MU, which led to the failures. Of course they would never say why it really happened but it was an interesting time those years, to say the least.

The manual OTOH, the clutch can't go past a typical "Stage 1" tune (remap) if one is interested in modding. Meaning even Stage 2/DP tune will likely result in clutch slippage and require a clutch upgrade. The DSG OTOH is fine up to like 400lb*ft without any issues, which is basically as high as a K04 will take you. Some tuners say a DSG tune is required at these torque levels but even then you don't have to do anything mechanical like upgrading the clutchpacks. Wouldn't have to worry about that until getting into a big turbo.

Granted I doubt OP would be considering modding the car anyway with a 4k pound budget but just thought I would mention.

Otherwise yeah the MT is probably less problematic and less maintenance as well. DSG fluid isn't cheap and it must be changed at intervals as well; changing it also requires a pump (ideally) so it's not much of a DIY w/o the right tools.

But yes cutting down on options (quattro, DSG, nav, etc.) should cut down on cost but really in the used market these might not account for _that_ much of a difference. The used market is largely dictated by year, model, and mileage, more than anything. So an RS will obviously be much more than an S or 3.2:, which will in turn be more than a 2.0T. Stuff after that like whether it has nav or baseball stitch seats or the leather-wrap dash parts, are a little less accounted for in terms of value/selling price.

Again I dunno about UK but it's actually common over here to find TT-S models selling for similar values to 2.0Tqs, particularly Competition trimmed models. The S models seem to have reduced value due to what I can only imagine is the magride and its very high cost of maintenance/repair/replacement. But again at the OP's pricepoint it's highly unlikely they are looking at an S anyway.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

There will be some out there are perfectly good, it'll just mean more of a mire of crap to search through before you find one that fits you. Always a risk of some sort whether its 15yrs old or just a few years old.


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## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Love my 2008 manual! Bought it off a lady who had had it for some 7 years and used to drive on weekends only. Car is in mint condition, 65K miles now (had 59K when I bought it). Paid £6.9K in Harrogate, spent 2.5K getting it the way I wanted it to look (tinted windows, new Android Kenwood stereo, new 3D plates, LED interior lights, Asymmetric 5 tyres, custom wheels, service and other bits and pieces). It's my daily now. The TT is a highly recommended and desirable sports car on a budget but it would be an illusion to think you can get a decent one for £4K, unfortunately, unless the car is knackered or someone is giving it away!


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## Carpy63 (May 22, 2021)

Well I would get a loan for a couple of grand, on top of the 4K and get what I really want, a decent mid mileage FSH car, really not keen on cars that are only driven when the sun is out, my Mk1 roadster has now cost me double but then I knew that, my wife likes it and my daughter wants it! My Mk2 is mine and is very lovely, thanks to the previous owners and good mileage.  that's me of course! Lol.


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## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

wsantos said:


> Love my 2008 manual! Bought it off a lady who had had it for some 7 years and used to drive on weekends only. Car is in mint condition, 65K miles now (had 59K when I bought it). Paid £6.9K in Harrogate, spent 2.5K getting it the way I wanted it to look (tinted windows, new Android Kenwood stereo, new 3D plates, LED interior lights, Asymmetric 5 tyres, custom wheels, service and other bits and pieces). It's my daily now. The TT is a highly recommended and desirable sports car on a budget but it would be an illusion to think you can get a decent one for £4K, unfortunately, unless the car is knackered or someone is giving it away!


Same kind of deal mine was, 61K on it and even the same colour and all :lol:


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Carpy63 said:


> Well I would get a loan for a couple of grand, on top of the 4K and get what I really want, a decent mid mileage FSH car,


FSH?



Carpy63 said:


> really not keen on cars that are only driven when the sun is out,


Sooo you'd rather a car that's been trashed driving it through winter every year, and salt blasted to hell? I mean at least on the TT it's less of an issue since much of the car is alum. but still. Don't get why anyone _wouldn't_ be keen on a car that was babied and never driven in rain, winter, etc. I mean sure it makes for a cheaper car when that's _not_ the case but it sure is nice to find a car that's in amazing condition on the other hand.

Anyway whatever you do I think there's a lot of good info here now about the kind of costs you'll be looking at in maintenance, possible problems, and what you can expect for the money you're looking to spend. There's always gonna be "hidden gems" and the chance of having your uncle's neighbour's best friend just selling a great car for cheap 'cause they're getting something newer and the stealer isn't giving them much on a trade--that sort of thing does happen. However happening with a Mk2 TT in particular...well I mean if that were the case you wouldn't be posting here to begin with


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

> Well the 3.2L is also shoehorned in there itself, no? LOL. Plus doing the timing chains on that engine seems a lot more of a nightmare than the timing belt on the EA113s, or even the chain on the EA888...


@ *TT'sRevenge* - The 3.2 VR6 is not really that bad to work on TBO. My point about the turbo was since it's tucked behind the engine, trying to get to it if there's a problem, does not look like fun. The other advantage of the 3.2 VR6 is it's not direct fuel injected which means fuel flows over the intake valves and minimizes carbon deposits.

While the timing chain and tensioner is a concern, if I can get it to 150,000 miles before I have to deal with it, I'm not going to complain. I'll keep an ear on the timing chain cover and run a VCDS when I change my oil just to keep an eye on the 208 and 209 measurement blocks.

Given it only has ~70K miles and it's 14-years old. I'll most likely have sold it before the timing chain is an issue (fingers crossed!)


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## wsantos (Sep 7, 2020)

Rufflesj said:


> wsantos said:
> 
> 
> > Love my 2008 manual! Bought it off a lady who had had it for some 7 years and used to drive on weekends only. Car is in mint condition, 65K miles now (had 59K when I bought it). Paid £6.9K in Harrogate, spent 2.5K getting it the way I wanted it to look (tinted windows, new Android Kenwood stereo, new 3D plates, LED interior lights, Asymmetric 5 tyres, custom wheels, service and other bits and pieces). It's my daily now. The TT is a highly recommended and desirable sports car on a budget but it would be an illusion to think you can get a decent one for £4K, unfortunately, unless the car is knackered or someone is giving it away!
> ...


Meteor grey is a great colour especially after going over with a DA. Got loads of compliments and people can't believe it's a 13 year old car!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> > Well the 3.2L is also shoehorned in there itself, no? LOL. Plus doing the timing chains on that engine seems a lot more of a nightmare than the timing belt on the EA113s, or even the chain on the EA888...
> 
> 
> @ *TT'sRevenge* - The 3.2 VR6 is not really that bad to work on TBO. My point about the turbo was since it's tucked behind the engine, trying to get to it if there's a problem, does not look like fun. The other advantage of the 3.2 VR6 is it's not direct fuel injected which means fuel flows over the intake valves and minimizes carbon deposits.
> ...


Good points as usual SJP  The turbo is really not that bad but I think you pretty much have to get it from below on the TT which is indeed pretty tight. Even if it can come out the top you still will have to switch back and forth from above and below to get it out.

I think you're right the VR6 seems like it has less major maintenance items to do. Not having to do carbon cleaning is a big one as that is a dirty and time consuming job unless you have blasting material. If I ever bought one of these DI engined cars brand new again I would put w/m on it from day one, I can tell you that much. Any of the three engines (EA113, EA888, EA390) seems like they needs periodic timing jobs done though so no avoiding that regardless of two of them using chains which you'd think would last for a very long time but nope!


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## Reigate_TT (Jul 7, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> If you really have your heart set on a Mk2, try to find one with as few of the costly extras as possible. For example, avoid Audi Magnetic Ride (AMR) or "Mag Shocks" as they are stupid expensive to replace and really have little value in the way of every day driving. Then there's All Wheel Drive (AWD) also known as "Haldex". Avoid any TT with this as it will eliminate the entire rear end and the Cardan shaft (drive shaft) so that's a massive savings since you'll never have to worry about them. This will not only save you the maintenance and repair costs later on, it will also help keep the initial price down.
> 
> Do your homework on which engine/year you go with, since some of the early 2.0's were plagued with piston ring issues and high oil consumption. Personally, I went with a 3.2 VR6 because I didn't want the associated costs of a turbo and (IMHO) it's a major PITA to work on since it's tucked so far behind the engine.
> 
> ...


I'm in the same boat as the OP, really smitten with the TT and without wanting to 'hijack' his thread, in light of the potential 2.0 TFSI oil consumption, Haldex etc.....what are your opinions on the Diesel versions are (Mk2 TDI 2009 ish) My other car (family) is a Skoda Yeti 1.8 TSI that does 2litres of oil in 500miles so im resigned to the fact that its the piston ring issue so anything related to this makes me nervous!
My initial assumptions are that despite not perhaps sounding as nice or being as rapid they still 'pull' quite nicely, low emissions, decent mpg, low insurance - whats not to like? (Apart from that its a diesel )

Cheers


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

I have a 2.0 TSI and it did use a bit of oil when I bought it. Found the DV was leaking a bit so replaced it. Also Got the car remapped and decided to change from 5w30 to 5w40, hardly consumes any oil now. Maybe 1/4 litre every 1,200 miles.

I get around 38 to 40mpg too.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Reigate_TT said:


> SwissJetPilot said:
> 
> 
> > If you really have your heart set on a Mk2, try to find one with as few of the costly extras as possible. For example, avoid Audi Magnetic Ride (AMR) or "Mag Shocks" as they are stupid expensive to replace and really have little value in the way of every day driving. Then there's All Wheel Drive (AWD) also known as "Haldex". Avoid any TT with this as it will eliminate the entire rear end and the Cardan shaft (drive shaft) so that's a massive savings since you'll never have to worry about them. This will not only save you the maintenance and repair costs later on, it will also help keep the initial price down.
> ...


I see your in reigate im in redhill if you want to look at a 2.0t petrol but mines not standard


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## Reigate_TT (Jul 7, 2021)

chrisj82 said:


> Reigate_TT said:
> 
> 
> > SwissJetPilot said:
> ...


Thanks mate, will let you know


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