# Haldex oil and filter change



## rob40

Can i do this with the car on a set of ramps ??? I have the wrench to do the job , need to get the oil and filter , Just wondering if i can get to it with the car on ramps or will it realy need to be tackled with the car on a lift


----------



## rob40

I take it , nobody has done this then :?


----------



## YELLOW_TT

not on ramps you could call your local dealer and ask them :idea:


----------



## rob40

Ok cheers yellow, I guess , if its on ramps , am i going to get all the old oil out , Thats another thing , does this come out when you remove the filter plug or is there a sump plug to remove > I know the oil is more of a grease and the new stuff is in a cartridge , but is the crap oil in there going to be a liquid, Or does nothing come , and its a case of changing the filter plug then injecting the new grease :? . I have had it done B4 , just wondering if i could do it myself


----------



## claudefrog

you will need to get the car fairly high up in the air.

reason being the caulking gun with the haldex oil needs to be vertical to be able to squirt the whole lot of oil straight up and into the resivor, then quicklt get it removed and the bung back in place


----------



## claudefrog

rob40 said:


> Ok cheers yellow, I guess , if its on ramps , am i going to get all the old oil out , Thats another thing , does this come out when you remove the filter plug or is there a sump plug to remove > I know the oil is more of a grease and the new stuff is in a cartridge , but is the crap oil in there going to be a liquid, Or does nothing come , and its a case of changing the filter plug then injecting the new grease :? . I have had it done B4 , just wondering if i could do it myself


the old oil is like water, the new oil is also very runny, its no where near grease like.

you need to remove a bung on the underside of the housing, and you also fill it from the bung hole, so when you pull the caulking gun away be quick getting the bung in or all your new oil will be in a puddle on the floor


----------



## rob40

Ok cheers , i only thought it was like a frease as it comes in a caulking type tube . The bung is the filter yes ? I think i will need to go to the guy i use for servicing as i do not think i will get the car high enough . Cheers guys


----------



## TiTi

Whats haldex?


----------



## kae

Haldex is the coupling at the rear of the car that engages the rear wheels on the quattro model TT's.

The bung isn't the filter, the filter is completely separate, its a physical plug.

Kae.


----------



## John-H

*How to change the Haldex oil and Filter*

The Haldex oil is supplied in a caulking gun cartridge from your Audi dealer. 
Haldex Oil (#G052175A1), Haldex Filter (#02D525558A)

The mileage service interval is:

20k oil 
40k oil and filter 
60k oil 
80k oil and filter 
etc

Changing the oil is a very easy job if done correctly. Changing the filter requires a special tool and is a little more fiddly.

*How to fill?*

The Bentley workshop manual shows filling of the Haldex unit from the drain plug at the bottom. The nozzle is pushed vertically into the hole and the oil pumped up with a standard caulking gun. The entire content of the cartridge is pumped in for the correct measured amount. This procedure gives the impression that the car needs to be up on a professional garage lifter because of the size of the gun but that's not the case.

You can change the oil with the car up on a pair of wheel ramps, or axle stands, because you don't need to have the caulking gun vertical. You can bend the nozzle in the middle, so the caulking gun can even be horizontal.

Some people have attempted to fill the Haldex unit, through the oil level inspection hole, which is higher up the casing at the front. I wouldn't recommend this. Firstly, the inspection hole would tend to be too low if the car is up on rear wheel ramps only and secondly there may be issues with trapping air underneath the fresh oil as it pours in. Both of these situations can cause the oil to spill out of the inspection hole and if you loose any you will have less than the correct amount inside.

*Correct method of draining:*

Just get the oil warm after a drive, clean up the drain plug and surrounding area (important) and then drain it out by removing the plug with an Allen key. This can be done with the car level to ensure all the oil comes out.

The car can be raised after draining for better access.

*Changing the filter:*

If you change the filter, this is the most awkward part of the process. If you have the official Audi tool you'll find it fouls on the under cover.










You can take the under cover off but it's a pain, or you can cut a slot into the cover to make room for the tool handle.










I'm not sure about access with the alternative tool (stamped out flat tool with the square drive hole from ebay).

The new filter cartridge should have its sealing ring lubricated with a little oil to make assembly and sealing easier. Note that the original filter is metal but the new one will be plastic. See the links below for more details.










*Correct method of filling with oil:*










When you come to put the oil in, before you attach the nozzle to the cartridge, kink the nozzle in the middle to form a 90 degree bend but squeeze it at the edges of the kink with a pair of pliars so it doesn't block the flow. Then screw the nozzle, on its own, into the drain hole - it will bite into the thread. Then screw on the cartridge/caulking gun and pump the entire contents inside.

One word of warning: Do not screw in the nozzle too far into the casting otherwise the end will but up against the internals and block the flow. This will make pumping difficult and could cause the cartridge piston to leak.

Next is the tricky bit. Have the drain plug handy in reach and with the Allen key long end already inserted into it (this makes it easy to handle), put your clean finger on the casting underside, pressed up against the cartridge nozzle tip and casting. In one deft movement, yank out the nozzle from the casting so when you pull the nozzle out sharply, your finger naturally falls over the hole to block it. Now hold the drain plug, on the long end of the Allen key, pressed next to your finger and with another deft movement, poke the stopper into the hole, pushing your finger out of the way, quickly (don't pull your finger away first!) and screw it in. - All this is so that at no time is the hole ever unblocked. Done correctly you don't even loose a drop :wink:

*Drain plug tightening torque = 15 Nm*

That's all there is to it.

See these links for some good pictures and the special Audi tool (T10066) which can be purchased from VAGparts:

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc35.shtml

http://www.amp82.co.uk/tt/haldex/

View attachment haldexoilchange.PDF


It's possible to replace filter and oil by only raising the car five inches, using wooden ramps which give a parallel four wheel lift. Less working space is afforded but the level lift allows correct checking of oil levels - useful to check the gearbox and differential levels too. See here for details:

http://www.********.co.uk/ttforumbbs/vi ... hp?t=62767


----------



## swinello

you need to get the haldex removal tool as its almost impossible to do the job without it,then basicaly you need to get the car high enough to get under and work on it safely,the car needs to be flat for refilling the oil,also its worth mentioning if you remove the 4 13mm headed bolts on the exhaust backbox mountings and loosen the exhaust sleeve in the centre you can drop the rear of the exhaust and gain access to the correct filling point for the haldex  ,i really cant believe people do this job by filling it up using the drain hole as it only takes 5 to take the exhaust off :roll: (well as long as its nuts arent rusty)


----------



## John-H

The Haldex should be filled through the drain plug hole because it is easy when done correctly and is the official method recommended by Audi in the workshop manual (See here: http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/haldexoilchange.pdf). I believe problems can be encountered trying to fill through the inspection hole, possibly because of air trapped below. There may also be a danger of oil being forced out from the air vent tube.










It's only necessary to have the car level when checking the oil level and probably best for draining too. Refilling can be done at an angle as shown here: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc35.shtml because you are filling with a measured quantity - the entire contents of the cartridge.


----------



## swinello

John-H said:


> The Haldex should be filled through the drain plug hole because it is easy when done correctly and is the official method recommended by Audi in the workshop manual (See here: http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/haldexoilchange.pdf). I believe problems can be encountered trying to fill through the inspection hole, possibly because of air trapped below. There may also be a danger of oil being forced out from the air vent tube.
> 
> It's only necessary to have the car level when checking the oil level and probably best for draining too. Refilling can be done at an angle as shown here: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc35.shtml because you are filling with a measured quantity - the entire contents of the cartridge.


air vent tube???? what air vent tube?? :roll: so whats the inspection hole for then? releasing air and stopping it going int the air vent tube? :roll:


----------



## swinello

swinello said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> 
> The Haldex should be filled through the drain plug hole because it is easy when done correctly and is the official method recommended by Audi in the workshop manual (See here: http://www.kisolutionz.com/ttforum/haldexoilchange.pdf). I believe problems can be encountered trying to fill through the inspection hole, possibly because of air trapped below. There may also be a danger of oil being forced out from the air vent tube.
> 
> It's only necessary to have the car level when checking the oil level and probably best for draining too. Refilling can be done at an angle as shown here: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc35.shtml because you are filling with a measured quantity - the entire contents of the cartridge.
> 
> 
> 
> air vent tube???? what air vent tube?? :roll: so whats the inspection hole for then? releasing air and stopping it going int the air vent tube? :roll:
Click to expand...

sorry about that john,just pulling your leg  but seriously the vent is at least 2 inches above the hole im talking about and the possiblity of this redirecting all the oil out of the unit would be noticeable when refilling,i read the audiworld article quite a while ago now any thought it was a crazy way of filling the unit,yeah i know everyone does it but personaly didnt want to do it this way the first time i did it so i emailed haldex and they told me me yeah its done this way or from the bottom,its up to you,they did tell if you do it make sure you dont spill too much as there is a critical level ,im assuming they ment not to much or to little,anyway im onto my 4th change and my haldex is fine and the oil that comes out isnt noticably worse than the new well apart from the 1st(the one the dealer was supposed to have done)hmm :x :roll: all im saying is you do have choice of which way to do it if your all fingers and thumbs ,and also if your doing it alone on a sunday and the drain plug rolls away when your fingers over the freshley filled orrifice dont say i didnt warn you :?


----------



## edinburghtt

Hi,

I have just bought a 180 quattro, 2001. I'm looking for some advice please. I have the much commented problem of grinding noise on taking off at a turn. 
I have taken out fuse 31 and the noise is gone, someone suggested this on another post.

I am within my dealers one month warranty and am terrified by how serious this problem could be. The noise is fairly bad on take off but I have not yet had the oil changed.

Looking for advice. Is it advisable to bring this car back and run a mile?

Cheers for any relevant replies.


----------



## John-H

I replied to your same post in this thread: : http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &e=2015648


----------



## tt z

Hi here. 
Firstly thank you all who posted instructions on how to with Haldex. Much appreciated.
If I could do it , the change of the Haldex filter and oil and the change of engine oil and oil filter, believe me everyone can do it. I have never done anything like that in my life and have no clue about cars. Today at Pit Start self service garage I've done both in some less than six hours. For the nerd like I am not a bad timing. Pit's Star in Acton , London , self service garage are very good. Good people, friendly advices one can get, all tools, good ramps,...etc. Bit costly £20 per hour, overall I paid £96 Vat incl. which is day of work rate. Probably bit costly, but if no other means around and still keen to see your car under , do IY things and check things , it is worth. 
I also suggest if you are planning to do this jobs get yourself set of screws and speed washers and fasteners for wheels well new from Audi. They will only cost few quid but you'll be sure your sound covers are fixed back properly , not with rounded and rusty falling appart staff.
I took some pictures of oils and processes and will be in my gallery for your interest.
Also I'll upload there file with pack up list and to do algorithm which someone may find useful. (or retarded :lol: :wink: )
Thanks again, I feel elated tonight, hope my TT too! 8)


----------



## John-H

It's all fun


----------



## stillchillin

rob40 said:


> Can i do this with the car on a set of ramps ??? I have the wrench to do the job , need to get the oil and filter , Just wondering if i can get to it with the car on ramps or will it realy need to be tackled with the car on a lift


I managed to change the Haldex controller and refill with oil by just using axle stands.. also didn't use any special tools.......maybe not the easiest way but possible.....


----------



## garythesnail

That's another 'thank you' from me - Mrs' Moro 3.2 coupe now has a new haldex filter and fresh oil with help and guidance from TT forum (and scraped knuckles from me )

Done from ramps on the road with some old kitchen lino to keep things clean - I struggled a bit with the filter, but the oil was a lot easier to get in (and keep in) than I'd feared.

Thanks a lot guys.


----------



## poor1

It's been made to sound like it's a very difficult job, in fact given you have a set of ramps and the correct tool it's dead easy.

Contrary to the common perception the vehicle has to be very high in order to accommodate a caulking gun, it's not true because you don't have to use one. Remember the consistency of the oil going in is nothing like as stiff as the stuff you would normally use in a caulking gun. All it needs is something straight to push the plunger because there is hardly any resistance. Ideally something like a couple of three eighths extension bars so that you can adjust the length.

Because the hole into which the nozzle is going into us so small there is very little chance of losing any oil between the time you take the nozzle out and put the drain plug back in, so long as you have the drain plug ready to put in.

It shouldn't take more than about half an hour total.


----------



## jiver

thank for all the good info in this thread.

I could put the TT up on the ramps and maybe get some answers to my questions but it is bucketing down with rain, and will be for the next 3 or 4 days and I have a dirt driveway and no cover. anyway...

which order?
my (un)common sense, and John-H post above, says: drain, change filter, fill.
bentley and the audiworld link says: *change filter, drain and fill oil*.
makes a difference?

I happen to have a *46mm socket* (3/4" drive) from a mis-spent life with Kombis (can't remember if it was for flywheels or breaking wheel hub nuts, no matter...) Do you reckon that might fit up in there to get the filter off?

if I don't use a cartridge (seems to be a very expensive way to buy 275ml of haldex oil, USD$35/275ml, which I can buy for AUD$10/litre), why can't I just use an *oil pump/can and fill via the inspection hole*?

I can't tell from photos whether drain/fill holes at at front, rear or side of vehicle - look like rear?

bentley says *car should be level*.
does it drain better or worse if rear on ramps? (as per audiworld link photo)
if I want to fill via inspection/fill hole car needs to be level? if on ramps would underfill?

and finally  is it *250ml *of oil whether replacing filter or not?

thanks! :-*


----------



## poor1

Your socket will be of no use whatsoever. The spanner which is specially designed for this job is the only one that will do. Whoever designed it must have been a contortionist. 

I don't see any importance in the car being level and not ramps because once the oil is drained the amount of oil contained in the cartridge is the amount of oil required and it simply a matter of putting it all in.

It's not difficult with the correct spanner for the filter and the whole thing on ramps should not take more than half an hour. It's just the fear of the unknown.


----------



## John-H

Yes. Drain, change filter, fill. You have to be deft with the drain plug. See the knowledge base. Up on ramps gives more access for cartridge fill with a caulking gun but you can also kink the tube to come at it at an angle.


----------



## David C

And you don't need to use a caulking gun, you can just push the base of the cartridge up with an extension bar.
The oil is very thin so there is very little resistance.


----------



## Skeee

David C said:


> And you don't need to use a caulking gun, *you can just push the base of the cartridge up with an extension bar.*
> The oil is very thin so there is very little resistance.


 Or with the handle of the Haldex Filter Spanner. :wink:


----------



## jiver

thanks ppl.

back to the unanswered questions  sorry to be pedantic...

a) why can't I just use an oil pump/can and fill via the inspection/fill hole instead of the drain hole? (not sure about the urban myth, even if it is published in the bentley manual, about the air trap, siding with _swinello _here)
b) does it drain better or worse if rear on ramps? 
c) does it fill better or worse via inspection/fill hole if rear on ramps? 
d) and finally  is it 250ml of oil whether replacing filter or not?

ps: poor1 You have a PM re panzer pan


----------



## Boruki

jiver said:


> thanks ppl.
> 
> back to the unanswered questions  sorry to be pedantic...
> 
> a) why can't I just use an oil pump/can and fill via the inspection/fill hole instead of the drain hole? (not sure about the urban myth, even if it is published in the bentley manual, about the air trap, siding with _swinello _here)
> b) does it drain better or worse if rear on ramps?
> c) does it fill better or worse via inspection/fill hole if rear on ramps?
> d) and finally  is it 250ml of oil whether replacing filter or not?
> 
> ps: poor1 You have a PM re panzer pan


These are questions I'd like answers for as well actually, as I'm a bit unsure about doing this and I'd need to get a second pair of axle stands to do it 'level'.

What's the other oil/fluid thing that people often do when they do Haldex? Is it the gearbox fluid? I assume that wouldn't have been done when my clutch was changed as they're separate? (Not wanting to highjack, it's semi on-topic )


----------



## poor1

There would be absolutely no point in filling through the level plug when it is so easy to do it through the drain plug.
The drain hole is very small and so the chances of losing any of the oil are minimal
It will drain without any problem if the car is on ramps
Empty the whole cartridge whether or not. The filter is tiny and would retain little or no oil when the unit is drained.

ps. I've responded to the Panzer plate


----------



## John-H

jiver said:


> thanks ppl.
> 
> back to the unanswered questions  sorry to be pedantic...
> 
> a) why can't I just use an oil pump/can and fill via the inspection/fill hole instead of the drain hole? (not sure about the urban myth, even if it is published in the bentley manual, about the air trap, siding with _swinello _here)


All I can do is point you at Loz180's experience trying it:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51403&p=587172&hilit=+haldex#p587172

Given the warnings, example and doubts about filling through the inspection hole, why would we not use the recommended method through the drain hole? You could be brave and try it again and let us know :wink:



jiver said:


> b) does it drain better or worse if rear on ramps?


That's not easy to answer. How would we know this easily? We'd have to lower the rear of the car to see if any more came out, or by measuring the quantity drained perhaps? Given the hole is at the bottom, most must drain out either way. You'll never get all the oil out of a multi plate clutch system anyway because of the large surface area and cling, so it's not worth worrying about this I think.



jiver said:


> c) does it fill better or worse via inspection/fill hole if rear on ramps?


See a)



jiver said:


> d) and finally  is it 250ml of oil whether replacing filter or not?


Yes. The filter is small so can't contain much and drains mostly anyway.

P.S. I've used my wooden ramps to give a parallel lift to be able to measure the oil levels in gearbox, diff and Haldex before but you need to be slim :wink:


----------



## jiver

ok. I know some of you have part answered my questions, but no rain today (but am crook, that's ozzie for the flu, which is slang for influenza) so put rear up on ramps for a look-see. (caravan levelling ramps, only 100mm lift but good enough)

the drain hole and the inspection hole are both at the *front *of the vehicle so when raised at the back, and assuming gravity is the main player involved, it would drain better(as least as well as level), but filling via the inspection hole you would also need to ensure you allowed none to leak whilst filling the required amount.

couldn't get my 46mm socket on the filter from the rear. I doubt taking off the sound panel and trying from the front would give a different result.

when I do it I will probably put the TT on ramps front and rear (level) so I can check transmission and diff oils.

thanks & cheers.


----------



## Dogs n Rabbits

Some advise please as car going in for service this month.

I've got 59k on the clock and it's 10 years old at the end of the month (Happy Birthday TT!). According to the routine seen earlier on this post :

20k oil
40k oil and filter
60k oil
80k oil and filter
etc

I should do oil change only, but as it hasn't had a filter since June 2009 @ 40k do you think I should do filter as well on this service ? It's not getting the mileage it used to when it was my main car.

Thanks

Ian.


----------



## RobLE

Dogs n Rabbits said:


> Some advise please as car going in for service this month.
> 
> I've got 59k on the clock and it's 10 years old at the end of the month (Happy Birthday TT!). According to the routine seen earlier on this post :
> 
> 20k oil
> 40k oil and filter
> 60k oil
> 80k oil and filter
> etc
> 
> I should do oil change only, but as it hasn't had a filter since June 2009 @ 40k do you think I should do filter as well on this service ? It's not getting the mileage it used to when it was my main car.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ian.


I would do both personally - mine only need the oil last week but I did both as, like you, mileage wasn't high but was a while since it was done.


----------



## Hutchie

I'm about to tackle this job. Looking on eBay there are a number of listings for the filter spanner some just say all Audi VW Seat and Skoda cars others seem to explicitly list the TT - does any one know if they are all the same?
Thanks.


----------



## Micheal

I'm just getting to change the oil and filter on my TT Quattro but am curious as to what the filter actually does? Does not look as if it is really designed to do much filtration.

Cheers, Micheal


----------



## bmb779

On all outboard motors the gearbox oil is filled from the drain plug with the level plug removed,once the oil comes out the fill plug the fill plug is screwed back in to cause a vacuum then the oil filler is disconnected from the drain hole and a new plug screwed in,I wonder if this would help in the Haldex system.


----------



## David C

bmb779 said:


> On all outboard motors the gearbox oil is filled from the drain plug with the level plug removed,once the oil comes out the fill plug the fill plug is screwed back in to cause a vacuum then the oil filler is disconnected from the drain hole and a new plug screwed in,I wonder if this would help in the Haldex system.


Not really because it is VERY easy to just whap the cartridge of oil in via the drain plug.
It isn't as frightening as first appears to get the new plug in quick enough.


----------



## desertstorm

There isn't a separate fill and drain plug is there on the Haldex. Just a drain plug. The idea being it's changed pretty regularly (or should be) and you put a litre in after you have drained a litre out. Thus the level should be good.
I think all the Haldex filter spanners are the same. 
I used this one, I wouldn't of removed my old filter without the correct spanner as it was pretty tight. It was the original metal one though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haldex-Oil-F ... 2779433636?

You really need some clearance under the car to be able to get the new oil in as it comes in a cartridge that's fitted into a mastic gun to inject it. I had to fit a tube on the end of the nozzle and squeeze it in at an angle as I couldn't get the car high enough to use the mastic gun direct into the Haldex drain.


----------



## David C

desertstorm said:


> You really need some clearance under the car to be able to get the new oil in as it comes in a cartridge that's fitted into a mastic gun to inject it. I had to fit a tube on the end of the nozzle and squeeze it in at an angle as I couldn't get the car high enough to use the mastic gun direct into the Haldex drain.


It is easier to not use a mastic gun.
Just push the base of the cartridge up with a socket extension or the handle of the Haldex filter spanner.


----------



## John-H

You can also bend the nozzle through 90° so the mastic gun can be used horizontally. Just kink the nozzle over in the middle but crush the kink in sideways with some pliers so it does not restrict the flow. Blow through it to check before fitting.


----------

