# SOLVED: Instrument Cluster LCD soldering gone wrong ...



## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

*UPDATE - SOLVED:* Solution can be used with both cluster or ECU swapping, and works if you do not have the PIN for the old cluster (IMMO2).

First check if your car has IMMO2 or IMMO3 with VCDS. Access 17-Instruments (or separate 25-Immobilizer on vehicles that are set up that way) and look at the first "Extra" field. If you see something like: "Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-2 (or maybe even Immo-1 in earlier non-US models). If you see something like "WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696" You've got Immo-3. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.

This is the way forward if you have IMMO2.

So it was a 2 minutes job in total to match keys, cluster and ECU on top of the 30s I already used to set the mileage and read the cluster pin.

To set mileage and read cluster pin I used Vag-Tacho 5.0 USB
Read pin: 



Set mileage: 




All I needed to match cluster, keys and ECU was the VCDS. Even though I did a cluster swap I programmed it as if it was an ECU swap - just the simpler and faster way to go. 
Match keys to cluster: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... g_(Cluster)
Macth ECU to cluster: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html

A long road to find the very simple solution to a self-inflicted problem that potentially could have cost me 1.600-1.700 pounds at a dealer. Total cost 90 pounds including new cluster and vag-tacho.

*** Original post ***
So thought that I could solder in a new LCD by my self - turns out that this soldering job is not a beginners job, so I pretty much messed the printboard up beyond repair.

The part number of the cluster is 8N1 920 880 A, does anybody know which part numbers can be used? And what does it take to make another part work in the car?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

contact someone who does repairs you might find they have the bits you need and you can keep the Id of it - making synchronising simple.

I think the tool people use is VAG-TACHO to synchronise the ECU ID with the ECU, DASH, IMMOBOLISER - I recall on ASN someone thought they had ruined it by getting solder over multiple connectors then cleaning it up, it was okay again.. or have you stuck them together then stuck to the soldering iron and pulling them off the printed circuit board.

I really couldn't do it my eyes are no good enough anymore and I dont have the patience with my ham fists and I tend to hold my breath when trying to be really precise so if it is going to take more than 40 seconds I pass out   <-- this isn't laughing at your predicament it is laughing at my inability to do things that are small like this - I end up by closing one eye and putting two pairs of glasses on - and I have to hold my breath otherwise I breath out and steam up the glasses.

there is that Russian site who fit Colour MFAs maybe they can do a repair and fit one at the same time?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

Try Rehman Ditta at aRd Technik - he did my ColorMFA and knows his stuff when it comes to electronics.

Good luck 

/Al


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

alexgreyhead said:


> Try Rehman Ditta at aRd Technik - he did my ColorMFA and knows his stuff when it comes to electronics.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> /Al


I endorse Ray too, very good.
I need to take mine along, shoot the crap and get something done with them.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

I'll try Rehman, but I think it's beyond repair.

Has anybody bought parts from sunparts24.com?


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

any high res pic(s) of the damage? as long as you've not lifted tracks/pads it should be repairable


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Not high res

I think some of the tracks/pads have been damaged.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

So I've tried calling a few different Audi dealerships and ask about the part. For some reason, they will tell me the part number, they can only tell me that the partnumber I have does not have FIS, which the car has.

Is there any place where I can see the part number based on the vin number?


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

not easy to judge underneath all this mess to be honest. you'd need some serious heat to lift those tracks and pins but would have to see it with display removed. the 2 cicrcled bits are definitely damaged but could be replaced from a broken donor unit I guess


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

I know and as I wrote above I have written this unit off in my mind. I don't think it is worth paying a professional to try to save this. It's just another deposit to the experience account.

Just need some help finding the correct partnumber


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1894499

seems like the dashpod is discontinued and you won't be able to get a new one.
options are 2nd hand unit and get someone to recode it for you or repair.
where are you based? anywhere around Fife I could have a look at it for free if you want.
alternatively find a decent mobile phone/laptop repair place that does reflow/reballing work and ask them to have a go for you. most likely a lot cheaper than car electronics specialists. when I was in that business I always enjoyed a bit of exotic work.
the display in the pic is the old or new one? if it is the new one order another one up, this one's dead for sure

ps: you might get away with these slightly burnt components and if there's one a handful of tracks lifted they can be patched no problem. this is a common thing in mobile phone repairs and that on a much more microscopic level than these dashpods


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Yes I know it was discontinued in 2017, but it was replaced with a new partnumber and that is the partnumber they will not tell me.

Thank you for your offer to look at it, but I'm in Denmark, so a bit far away 

As far as I understand I can only use instrument clusters from 1999/2000 and the few available at brakers in Denmark they do not know if they have FIS.

I don't even know what partnumber my original unit is ... it's something like 8N1919


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

yeah that's a bit far, agreed. I'd still go for the find a repair shop option. won't hurt to ask.

if it's discontinued then it is. it will not be superseded by a new version for a car this age.

maybe they keep a few on the side for very special cases and there's some secret part number for these but even if you'd knew the number they wouldn't sell you one.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Ok, I have found a replacement instrument cluster at a salvage.

For future unlucky people who need a replacement instrument cluster with the original partnumber 8N1920880A it may be good to know that you can also replace that with the following numbers 8N1920880AX, 8N1919880E and 8N1919880EX

Now I just need to code the instrument and set the correct mileage, as the replacement has 280.000 km on the clock where mine has only driven 135.000 km. I have documentation for my mileage as the car had its MOT just days before I broke the original instrument cluster.

I've found one who can code the instrument to the car, but he says that he can not roll back the km's - which hw/sw do I need in order to do that?


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

I read somewhere that you should be able to pull the eeprom off the old cluster and swap it in to the new cluster and then it should retain your mileage - but which eeprom is it?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

maybe VAG-TACHO (or VAG-COMMANDER <-- might be the same product?)

or just put it on axle stands and run it in reverse overnight 

you can also use VAG-TACHO to enable your Dash with your ECU and synchronise the keys


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Sorry to say that the odometer can only be rolled forwards not backwards even by the dealers. Swapping out EPROMs is likely to leave you with a second heap of plastic not fit for anything. I'd just count my blessings and keep my documentation up to date or look for a lower km dashpod....


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

RNS-E said:


> Ok, I have found a replacement instrument cluster at a salvage.
> 
> For future unlucky people who need a replacement instrument cluster with the original partnumber 8N1920880A it may be good to know that you can also replace that with the following numbers 8N1920880AX, 8N1919880E and 8N1919880EX


X in a Audi part number means remanufactured, ie repaired. Surprised to hear there arent any clusters because for LHD they are still available from Audi. EDIT, just checked they have the one for my car but the normal part, not the X part

8N1920880H Only 1432.28 eur :lol:

Forget also about Vagtacho which is essentially a stolen freeware made to only work with cables you buy from them.

You need "vag eeprom programmer" (I have 1.19g) to read and program the clusters. You also need a "a standard KKL 409.1 cable ", available on ebay for 10. VCDS cable will NOT work. *WARNING: You can permanently mess up / brick your cluster with the above tools/sw if you do it wrong.*

Please tell us how it went. I have the new LCD for my cluster but havent fitted it yet...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If you can only roll odometers forward why not roll it forward to 999999 and then when it goes to 000001 then roll it forward again to 130000


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> If you can only roll odometers forward why not roll it forward to 999999 and then when it goes to 000001 then roll it forward again to 130000


What if it turns out the odometer somehow squeezes in an extra digit so you have to go all the way to 9,999,999 miles? You'll be there for weeks with a drill hanging out the back of the dash clocks :mrgreen:

... what do you mean, the TT doesn't have a speedo cable? [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Use vag-tacho to change the odometer reading, someone said you can only correct it by making it larger than current. So adjust it to the max then drive it 2 kms the adjust it again.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Wow. Good thinking

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

@StuartDB - good thinking, thank you! It is definitely worth a try! Will keep you all updated when I get a hold on someone with vag-tacho

The big question is of course, will it tick over to 0 or will it just be maxed out at 999.999?


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

It will tick over

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Found someone with vag-tacho who will come by this week. Can you also use vac-tacho to code the immobiliser on the new instrument? Remember the old one is dead so no chance of reading anything from that.

Or is it only VCDS you can use to code the new instrument with the immobiliser code?


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

a little update - mileage sorted. I bought a vag-tacho USB 5.0 and within 5 min the milage was rolled back to 135.000 km from 259.000 km, to match the cars true mileage. Very very easy.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thats so cool - good work  , does the vag-tacho have any documentation regarding coding keys?

you should do a sticky on how to use the tools and what cable etc you bought


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Have not tried the Key coding yet. I need to find a vcds to match the instrument with the ECU. I got so excited about the mileage rollback, that I forgot to read the instrument pin, I'm going to try that tomorrow. If that works I have the original pin from the car (ECU) and from the new (used) instrument and it should be pretty straight forward to match instrument and ECU up.

Regarding the mileage it is as easy as this youtube video: 



 - and yes it is only 30s or so. My instrument is the M73 v1

The cable is called Vac-tacho k+ I think - picked it up for 15 pounds

Regarding instrument/ecu match having both pins I'm going to try this as soon as I have the vcds:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah I think it is advisable to get the SKU from the devices and store somewhere in case of this type of failure.

ross-tech had a few articles on how to resync dashpod to ECU, I think this is kind of it? even though the ECU belongs with the car

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... U_Swapping


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

So it seems that I need another cable to get to the next step. I can only pull one pin with the vag-tacho, I don't know if it is the ECU pin or the cluster pin.

I've tried vcds lite and VAG EEPROM programmer, vcds says no cable and VEP says there is no ECU which I interpret as no connection due to cable not compatible.

The cable is a K+CAN cable, does anybody know which programs should work with this type?


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

The cluster SKC and ECU SKC should be the same on factory original vehicle.
If the cluster has been swapped out, then they will be different.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

my turn this weekend, wish me luck, lol


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

@pcbbc - did you read the thread or even the subject? :lol: I messed up the old cluster, found a used one, turned back the mileage and now need to pair the old ECU with the new used cluster

@Infidel.uk - Good luck!


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

infidel.uk said:


> my turn this weekend, wish me luck, lol


Thats a colourmfa me thinks 8)


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

silkman said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > my turn this weekend, wish me luck, lol
> ...


sure is...


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

infidel.uk said:


> silkman said:
> 
> 
> > infidel.uk said:
> ...


Well done. Did you also connect a boost gauge to it?


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

infidel.uk said:


> sure is...


How hard was the soldering? I had been thinking of attempting a standard repair myself, but this would be much nicer.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Looks great infidel!

Ok, so my car is running again, but I'm a little embarrassed about the whole process 

So I've been using a lot of time trying to figure out the ECU PIN (SKC), using Vag Commander, EEPROM programmer, NefMoto trying to read the EEPROM and I could not get anything to work - and here is the embarrassing part - the car has IMMO2, so there is no pin in the ECU :lol:

So it was a 2 minutes job in total to match keys, cluster and ECU on top of the 30s I already used to set the mileage and read the cluster pin.

To set mileage and read cluster pin I used Vag-Tacho 5.0 USB
Read pin: 



Set mileage: 




All I needed to match cluster, keys and ECU was the VCDS. Even though I did a cluster swap I programmed it as if it was an ECU swap - just the simpler and faster way to go. 
Match keys to cluster: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... g_(Cluster)
Macth ECU to cluster: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer2.html

A long road to find the very simple solution to a self-inflicted problem that potentially could have cost me 1.600-1.700 pounds at a dealer. Total cost 90 pounds including new cluster and vag-tacho.


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

RNS-E said:


> and here is the embarrassing part - the car has IMMO2, so there is no pin in the ECU :lol:


I'm embarrassed too - what's IMMO2?

I feel like I should figure out my PIN before I have a problem, so your posts on the VAG-Tacho etc. are interesting, but looks like won't work with a 2005. Thanks though.


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## TT Grant (Apr 24, 2018)

Don't panic too much...
The messy soldering on the ribbon cable connection at the board is easy to re-work, even if you lifted the solder pads...
The two circled items are surface mount LED's & you can get a colour change kit of LED's to swap out to fix this.

If you are in the UK / Staffordshire, bring it over & I will sort the issue for you.

You may well need another LCD panel if the ribbon cable is knackered, but they are on Flea-Bay for about £18

Regards
Grant B


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## Daviedd85 (Apr 17, 2018)

Hi. Interesting read. Where was the colour mfa from? Is it a case of just swapping the old one for the colour one or is there more involved. Cheers


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Audi 8L A3 and B5 A4 ColorMFA Install Guide Audi A3 8L Audi A4

http://www.colormfa.ru/download/A38L_A4B5_ColorMFA_Install_Guide.pdf

I think you can also send your dash pod away and have it fitted for ~ £120


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

torqueit said:


> I'm embarrassed too - what's IMMO2?
> 
> I feel like I should figure out my PIN before I have a problem, so your posts on the VAG-Tacho etc. are interesting, but looks like won't work with a 2005. Thanks though.


IMMO2 is the immobilizer version 2 and around 2001 and forward they came with IMMO3. The difference is that in IMMO2 there is no pin code in the ECU, but there is in IMMO3. This makes quite a difference when swapping cluster or ecu.

They way you can tell if it is a IMMO2 or IMMO3 is VCDS cluster information. If there is a vin number in front of the immobilizer code, then it is IMMO3, if there is no vin number, it is IMMO2. It was litterly starring me in the face and laughing at me.

Anyway, a good advice if you start to mess around with either cluster or ecu, make sure to read the pin in the cluster/ecu before you start any work


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## Daviedd85 (Apr 17, 2018)

Great instructions. Doe they have as shop as cant seem to find out whether they install the maf for you. Cheers again


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

RNS-E said:


> Anyway, a good advice if you start to mess around with either cluster or ecu, make sure to read the pin in the cluster/ecu before you start any work


This is most helpful. Thanks again. A quick check with VCDS, and yep, there's my VIN, as expected.

I'm wondering if this VAG CAN Commander would retrieve my PIN - any guesses?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD2-VAG-CAN-C ... 3159863322


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Being a luddite, most of this has gone straight over my head, but thanks for the tip about the cluster pin before cluster work.

My cluster LCD display sometimes goes a bit dim when showing text at the top left when a CD is playing etc, I suspect a dry solder joint on the display as the pixels themself are present and correct.

I might get it repaired one day if it gets any worse.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

torqueit said:


> RNS-E said:
> 
> 
> > Anyway, a good advice if you start to mess around with either cluster or ecu, make sure to read the pin in the cluster/ecu before you start any work
> ...


Can you see which version your cluster is? Mine is a Magneti Marelli M73v1. I was able to read pin and adjust mileage with this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vagtacho-USB ... Sw0ZZbzrek


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

RNS-E said:


> Can you see which version your cluster is? Mine is a Magneti Marelli M73v1. I was able to read pin and adjust mileage with this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vagtacho-USB ... Sw0ZZbzrek


I am a bit thrown by what I'm seeing with VCDS. I was expecting to see "Magnetti Marelli, but I don't. My output is (I truncated part of my VIN with -):

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.LBL
Controller: 8N1 920 980 E
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D07
Coding: 17262
Shop #: WSC 09401
VCID: 380338020B4B
TRUWF28NX-------- AUZ5Z0D5035010
No fault code found.

So I see the M73 D07 as Component, so guessing it's a D07 version of the Marelli M73? When I read the description on the VAG-TACHO 5.0 with USB, it says up to 2003 on the TT, which is what led me to looking at the VAG CAN Commander which lists "TT 2000+" for supported PIN reading.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Mine is a M73 D29. Looking at the Vag Tacho software. I think the Vag Tacho will be able to read it, it has Magnetti Marelli Audi M73 V1 and V2 and Magnetti Marelli Audi after 2000 year. But if you have a VAG Commander it will most likely also work for you.


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## torqueit (Jan 22, 2019)

Thanks - think going to have to just pick one and go for it.


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## RNS-E (May 5, 2017)

Let us here which you choose and how it goes. They are both cheap so you should be ok


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