# How to make real DRL / LED Lights Audi TTS / TTRS



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

anyone knows the process ? as i really want it to look like these










or


----------



## Basscube (Jan 2, 2012)

Isn't that just a bright led headlight bulb? you can get them on Ebay but personally i don't think they are that bright as had them before. Plus they don't seem as bright as "normal" bulbs.


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Im not sure I like these LEDs... It reminds me of those cheap flashlights you would get a flea market


----------



## Basscube (Jan 2, 2012)

Im not sure I like these LEDs... It reminds me of those cheap flashlights you would get a flea market[/quote]

haha i think they look nice reminds me of Range Rover 8)


----------



## talk-torque (Apr 30, 2008)

Don't you mean "How to make fake DRL/LED Lights" ?


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

ya kinda ^^ even better like this one


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*ok people i found it.*

lets start whit the tools needed to unmount

-A gun.
-Key size T25 TRX.
-Key size T27 TRX.
-An old knife that will bend...
-A knife to coat the broad cast


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

here the list of materiel needed to make the LED"s TTS/TTRS

-A drill
-A lock of 2 mm for the pré-perçage (but not mandatory).
-A 8 mm wood Wicks.
-Erase black marker.
/ 24 minimum led 1W 240 HP, 000mcd / 3 5v / 300 mA / Angle 140 °
-Scotch electrician or sheath thermo protection.
-2 Ceramic resistors 10W / 30 k Ohm.
-8 Ceramic resistors 5W / 15 Ohm.
-2 Relay bi-pôlaire 5 terminals.
-Soldering iron + Tin.
-4 metres of cabling.


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*ok here we go*










*pull toward you*










*to have access to a bolt*














































*preheat oven 80°*










*And insert for 20minutes in taking care to remove all accessories that can melt like this:*




































































































*to be continued*


----------



## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Blinking' heck


----------



## Racdavid (Mar 5, 2012)

looks like a lot of work to me. Surely must be and easier way. :lol: Good luck. Look forward to seeing end result.


----------



## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

I am indeed looking forward to this!


----------



## Gizmo68 (Feb 26, 2012)

Indeed this _could _be _very _interesting.


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

This looks like it will be an interesting project. I like the angel eyes on the TT headlight


----------



## easty (Aug 23, 2005)

when is season 2 coming out? im excited to see how this pans out !


----------



## IC_HOTT (May 29, 2010)

me too - but my guess is that it will be a pretty good job :wink:


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*that is to say replace the DRL by the flashing on the TTRS and that you paint the Interior of the lighthouse! But I'm never against a mini-cure for relief! Tiny is

Tackling the pre-drilled 12 LEDs. Why 12 led?

-First is the config' of origin of TTS!
-Secondly, for mounting electrical it greatly facilitates the work and the calculation because it falls just! Foolish step eh?

So to do this, I have "shared" the distances of my support is that the cache selection of my flashing/pilot light set on which I made marks in every 3-4 cm like this pen:*










*Nota :  i started at 2 cm from the side inside edge grille for my 1 point, and then I left the distance of 3-4 cm between each led , as a result of keep the same proportion for the last led at the end since it is located also 2 cm from the outside edge.

Once done, you made the pre-drilled with your screwdriver and your fine lock of 2 mm. If you feel capable of piercing direct the 1 time, be not you shy not... but be careful to not go wrong because otherwise it is a stripe on the plastic support.

Assumed you have pre-drilled like me: you install the 8 mm wood Wicks on your screwdriver and you drill again... Except that once that you have started the "beginning" of the hole: stop! And y a course with a knife*










*final result should be like this*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*You see the difference between the 2? That top is pre-drilled to 8 mm by 2 mm in depth, and I did a course so that the leg of the led (anode and cathode) passes without problem...

But why the Jis makes us step drill to the end? Are you going to tell me? I will explain the reason is simple and obvious to me:

-First support is "smooth" on the front while behind it is corrugated. If I bore to the end, I must place my led by behind for it to continue as head of a led, there is a small rim for to not go further. The risk is that at the time of drilling, you have slightly moved and you have done too much hair your hole!
Result: The led move into the hole and so it is not right... and more as support is not flat behind, it amplifies the phenomenon! So if you find yourself to paste them to the super glue or glue melt u pistol is average...

-Second support is smooth on the front, necessarily LEDs are more likely to be all aligned flat!
Of not pierced to the end makes a support in its substance and also allows to slightly push the led support selection!
And last thing: the legs of the led are maintained by the well was created with our knife!
Result: the led is all alone without glue or other! In addition if you slightly heat the support on the back of the hole of the led, the plastic melts slightly on the led and there I can assure you that the led will not leave!

In short, once you have your 12 pré-trou + 12 course, test you whether the led holds perfectly inside. If it is ok you can go to the step:

[color = green]THE wiring of LED [/color]

On the other hand if it interests you to obtain the same result:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Through the stage

[color = red]DEVELOPMENT in painting [/color]:

First sanding you all the 120 paper to obtain a uniform, slightly rough surface. You pass it under water, dry and finally hide you the party to not paint with Scotch. Surplus scotch will be cut to the right run well itself without skid because otherwise will be reponcer at this location to make disappear the stripe on the plastic...
Nothing much complicated, personally I am not a very great painter but I can already assure you that:

If the support is well degreased, well sanded and well washed and dried there is not need to hook primary or other.

3 Successive layer will be the implementation of painting the bomb (in accordance with the drying between layers) allows for a finish and quality during the time without any worries. Purists mechanic by trade may say me otherwise but I can just say with a decline of 3 years on each of the 2 pairs of lights that I already made that it has never budged... After if your awareness of "maniac" pushes you to do more, for fear that it is not a viable solution in time: you can do more work preparation!
Me I know that it will be largely the years and heat
This work completed, close view:*










*Nothing prevents you to final drying with the gun still fairly remote.

As long as you are in the subject of the painting, so paint the mask with! This is during the development in painting*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*final result*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*dont do it like me, try to be careful with your paper sanding on chromium, it's irreversible brand if you spill over slightly

[color = green][/Color] turn signal wiring

Now to do such as true TTRS fires, we need turn signals in place and place of our former DRL bulb... Nothing simpler! I cut the yellow wire on the bulb of the DRL as this door:*










*Then I cut the yellow wire and the Brown wire that wearing the flasher bulb approximately 10 cm. Exit all bulb/door-bulb of the lighthouse. This is what should stay you in the end:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Note: The hole left by the absence of this bulb will allow me to pass cables from my led (but we will discuss it just after)

I have therefore welded yellow wire of the flashing in place of the yellow wire of the DRL bulb door:*


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










*Normally, at this stage it will have stay you the yellow wire of the old DRL (visible to the right of my finger in the photo above) and the Brown wire which fed the visible flashing base below:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*The Brown wire will be LED ramp mass (because the masses are common in the lighthouse so that greatly facilitates things) and the yellow wire will serve you food for your bi-polaires relay that we will discuss shortly...

Instead of buy orange illuminating chrome bulbs, I preferred to buy orange SMD high power led bulbs!*










*And the good surprise of these bulbs: they work without any additional resistance! No OBD error! And in + I will be in agreement with the led of the retro

The result before/after:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Note: As I do not "drop" of my led intensity when they my flashing is running, so that they are visible, better that they are very powerful. Photo is not well reflected, but the power of these light bulbs turn signal is much higher in reality... enough just to compare with my retro flashing led of origin Audi (which illuminates them already not bad!) to see that my bulb headlights clarifies much more!

[color = green]THE wiring of LED [/color]

The part that will interest you the most!
To succeed this step, we will first start by identifying how consists a Led. It is equipped with 2 legs, one of which is called [color = red] [/color] Anode ([color = red] + [/color]) and it is the longest, the other is called the Cathode (-) and she is the shortest:*










*During the installation of your led on the ramp, first try to place them all in the same sense of ORIENTATION to the level of the anode and cathode! This will prevent the wiring error! It's the experience...
And then we will make 4 3 led package
Begin by connecting all the cathode of the last led of each packet set by successive bridges. This will allow you to get in the end a single wire for the mass of your led. Connect then the led the one next to the other while using 4 packets. It'll have stay you at the end 4 [color = red] anodes [/color] free. Solder your 4 power wires that you are protecting mandatory is by thermo sheath is by Scotch electrician like me. This is the final result:*










*Having dismantled and removed my bulbs of flashing behind my ramp, this leaves me the passage free to spend all my wiring through the hole.*










*Connect all your 4 power wires of your 4 Pack of led with 4 domino ramp:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Insert a length of approximately 50 cm power cable in 1 domino, which in my case will be color [color = red] Red [/color]. (We will shortly address how the plug...) Link the other domino using "bridge" represented by my blue wire in the photo. Finally as you can see I have installed my domino series my

4 Resistance ceramics of value [color = red] 15 Ohms / 5 Watts [/color]*










*But why ceramic resistors? Simply because they they just heat. In addition, they will be available if one day I need to control my resistive system! And for the curious, I urge the question of gender:
"But why 15 Ohms / 5 Watts and not another?"
What is the ohm's Law said a few things to you? non? U = RxI otherwise it speak to you? You know the thing that one learns at College... it is up to you? ^ ^ And although I do master not of all the thing, it took that I takes me back in mathematical formulas... indigestible but totally essential to operate my led! You will see that if we had put it is enough "affordable" in understanding! LEDs that I chose were the following characteristics that I remember:

1W white LED with 300mA or 0-3
The voltage across their terminals is then approximately 3 4V.
The current 14 4V car support

[color = green][color = red]Case n ° 1 [/color]: explanation of the calculations for the mounting of the ramp on the diet of the DRL LED![/color]

The calculation of resistance occurs when the supply voltage (Ualim) is the highest. For the example:
[color = green]Ualim [/color] = 14 4V
ULED voltage across the LED ("DC forward voltage", as they say across the channel...) is therefore 3 4V
[color = green]ULED [/color] = 3 4V
As it is reasonable that 50 to 75% of the supply voltage is the Terminal LEDs (compromise between consumption and stability current), can mount 3 LEDs in series, here is a simplified schema:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Calculation of the resistance series R
Know the resistance will be named R, to use the formula R = U/I so the calculation is the following:
R = 14. 4V-(3led x 3. 4v) / 0. 3 A = 14 Ohm will be the higher standard value, that is to say
[color = red] 15 Ohm [/color]

Calculation of the power dissipated by the resistance R-series
Now be known the power that resistance must dissipated. The formula is P = UxI
P = 4. 0. 3 A = 1 x 2V. 26W
To avoid overheating of the resistance (mounting in a confined place, sheaths of fragile son nearby, etc), must be reliably rated. You can choose a model
[color = red] 5W [/color] or more.

Editing of 12 LED to the lighthouse in simplified schema:*










*Total consumption of LEDs: the consumed current is of [color = red] 1 2 [/color], or [color = red] 17.28 Watts [/color].

This consumption does not exceed the 21W of our food (Note: that it is the flashing or the drl is the 21w). Note that I install in parallel each block of 3 LEDs in series. As explained above, it's easier for the calculation and especially avoid to my my resistive to system dissipated too much power by led because my led are high intensity in my case: 0. 3 A/room!

With this type of editing, this implies that your led will turn on that with your DRL. If you put the lights on the road, you lose the night your led lighting... This is the simplest solution to wire since the yellow wire of your DRL is to connect with the wire [color = red] Red [/color] from your domino ramp and the work is finished... But it is valid only if you want to connect your led on the DRL... And if you prefer connect them on the pilot light tell me you? I have the solution!

[color = green][color = red]Case n ° 2 [/color]: explanation of the calculations for the mounting of the ramp of LED lights food![/color]

If you remember well, editing of my led consumes currently: 1 2 A, or 17.28 Watts with my resistive system... To avoid to install even more "wholesale", it will retain 1 in work which reduces a lot all. But feeding the pilot light on the headlights to xenon as the mine is 6W (5w to the halogen lights are) then how to feed my led asking 17w while I have 6 to provide?

To do this, just reduce the current in LEDs by inserting serial additional resistance simply! Consumed current lights must be of: I = Ualim/P
6W / 14. 4V = [color = green] 0 417 [/color]

Given that the 4 branches are identical, the voltage at the terminals of each strength of 14 Ohms are identical. The current flowing through them is 1/4 of the total current: I / LED
0. 417 A/4 = [color = green] 0 104 [/color]

The voltage at the terminals of each 14 Ohms resistance
14 x 0.104 = [color = green] 1. 46V [/color]

it is concluded the "remaining" voltage at the terminals of the additional resistance: U = R x I
14.4 - 1.46 - 3x3.4 = [color = green] 2.74 [/color]

If you have well followed, normally the current which crosses must be of 0.417 A. Its value is therefore (Ohm's law requires):

Calculation of additional resistance: R = U / I
2.74 / 0.417 = [color = red] 6.57 ohm [/color]

Calculation of power for additional resistance: P = U x I
2 74V x 0.417 A = [color = green] 1. 14W [/color]
Note: to restrict the consumption of LEDs to 6W, you can also disconnect 6 LED on the 12! It will also work but good it will do a little disorder

The mounting scheme*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Choose therefore a standard closer most of the 6.57 ohm values and 1. 14w, that is to say:

Value of additional resistance = [color = red] 6.8 ohm / 5W [/color].

After display I found damage to choose my connection of LEDs! It is true that this greatly simplifies wiring but need to recognize that in both cases there is a drawback:

- Or should lose the led to the ignition of the burner or Lighthouse ([color = red] case n ° 1 [/color])
- Either be "voluntarily" lighting the pilot light and/or lighthouse to take advantage of the Led ([color = red] case n ° 2 [/color])

While Audi they remain lit in DRL LEDs at full power, and they drop in intensity when it lights the pilot light set/or headlights!
STEP OF PANIC! There is a solution to compensate for this problem and get the same result as in Audi day and night... However this requires a little more work... Here is the solution of the functioning of these same LED wiring but in "hold" mode:

[color = green][color = red]Case n ° 3 [/color]: explanations of the mounting of the ramp of LED lights and the DRL food![/color]
You can choose the function DRL (nominal power) or lights (power reduced to 6W) by adding a bi-polaires relay!
A drawing is sometimes better than a long speech:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)




----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Thanks to him, will be more need to choose as this is when it will seek the pilot light that LEDs will automatically switch in low intensity!

And here is the procedure to follow:

-Yellow wire cut from your old alim' of DRL connects to pole 86 and 87
-The Brown wire cut from your old alim' flashing connects to the pole
-Blue wire cut your pilot light food connects to pole 87 (a)
-Red wire from the led ramp connects to pole 30

This is how I installed it on my current editing*










*Put your relay in the optical block, the place without worries there and think to close the cover on top.
OOOOOOOOOOOOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFffff finally finished! Finally, you have to go up the glass and the lighthouse in its place!
Already a small picture which leaves appreciate the end result of all Led + implementation painting of the mask before the glass:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Back up ice, I first presented in place the clips on their site to keep the glass in place.
If you have noticed, I have not indicated for the application of glue or additional joint type silicone or other... This is totally voluntary on my part because there is enough glue normally in the lighthouse so that it can consolidate and redo the seal!
But if you too have brushed this famous glue and missing by location, by precaution is better add a little (black silicone enough ample) let the tuto:

With the help of the gun I heated the edge evenly (in accordance with the same deposit as disassembly). Once the edge is quite heated, I forced to return to its initial position based firmly on the edge of the lighthouse by helping me side dish of the knife to coat*










*I maintained this position time that plastic cool slightly. Repeat this operation the Tower of the lighthouse. Finish up the plastic caches various and varied:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*replug*










*And finally to re-secure your lighthouse. Take your ignition key and made a test ^ ^.

And this is the off lights installed on the car:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*The LED lit position DRL*



















*The LED lit pilot light:*










*All with flashing:*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*View of nearly all (really in full day)*










*View far across (really in full day)*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*Can it be said that I cheat here! We really see that this is very close to the original Audi.

And finally a view of LEDs in the dark*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*The night it is really well bright , limited a little too much from the original led Audi... but what is the result! The led wide angle really make the difference because despite follow the rounding of the support, it is impossible to guess that they are not placed across the goal! Bet won*


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

*if u guys need a link where to buy the stuff pm me, other than that Thank you for reading me to the end and hope that this tutorial helped u.
A + for next mechanical adventures!*


----------



## IC_HOTT (May 29, 2010)

grasmere said:


> me too - but my guess is that it will be a pretty good job :wink:


wow - told you so, not a 5 minute mod clearly !!! but max credit to you TT Rex for an amazing mod and I can imagine very satisying - got to go in the KB 8)


----------



## avyi (Jan 9, 2012)

What a write up and mod! I am impressed *by whoever did this*. Very well done indeed. *That* TT is looking quite good!

*edited*


----------



## ajayp (Nov 30, 2006)

Absolutely amazing mate, this is a top job.

The car looks fantastic!

Total respect to you fella


----------



## IC_HOTT (May 29, 2010)

only thing is and I dont want to dismiss your efforts because I only speak 2 languages, English and bad , is that I would have to rerun the script through a translator to get a better sense of some of the detail but it does make for very interesting reading, superb!


----------



## YoungOldUn (Apr 12, 2011)

TT-Rex this is your best post to date. You had better be careful, you are conforming and I am not sure I will get used to it 

Well done.


----------



## mrdje (Jun 9, 2011)

That's funny, but it's seems to me that's I 've seen this post somewhere else... But it wasn't your's TT-REX...? [smiley=book2.gif]

Is that's your car in picture?


----------



## conneem (Nov 4, 2006)

grasmere said:


> only thing is and I dont want to dismiss your efforts because I only speak 2 languages, English and bad , is that I would have to rerun the script through a translator to get a better sense of some of the detail but it does make for very interesting reading, superb!


The original how to was in French, I think that is why it is a little hard to follow some times.

http://forum.audiaddicted.fr/index.php? ... ntry107281


----------



## mrdje (Jun 9, 2011)

Yeah, I know JIS, and he's got an account on this forum...

I'm just, how can i say, "disappointed" when I see HIS how-to copied on the forum, with no redirecting to his original post and no word about the REAL maker of this trick...

I'm french and my english is not perfect, so maybe i didn't understand perfectly.

But I'm sure TTREX is really pleased having everybody impressed by "his" work...


----------



## avyi (Jan 9, 2012)

mrdje said:


> Yeah, I know JIS, and he's got an account on this forum...
> 
> I'm just, how can i say, "disappointed" when I see HIS how-to copied on the forum, with no redirecting to his original post and no word about the REAL maker of this trick...
> 
> ...


In TTREX's defence, he never did say that this was HIS tutorial or work. he clearly says:


TT-REX said:


> *ok people i found it.*


Not sure if he translated this how to himself, but I think he just wanted to share the method of doing it, not actually say it was a How To made by him.
It's true that he should've given credit to the maker of this, though.. but hey ho, lets just appreciate the info.


----------



## Wallsendmag (Feb 12, 2004)

To be fair to TT-Rex his first post says "I found it" !


----------



## RockKramer (Feb 15, 2012)

To be fair to Rex he did start out saying he wondered if making your own custom LED DRL's could be done. Then he said "*ok people i found it.*". It looks like he's just tried to translate a lot of the original work of someone else, as shown by mrdje. I'm not sure Rex is claiming the work as his own, he's just not given credit where credit is due. Maybe...?


----------



## RockKramer (Feb 15, 2012)

Wow look at us all defending Rex... How cool is that


----------



## Fissues (Aug 11, 2008)

RockKramer said:


> Wow look at us all defending Rex... How cool is that


 Cool?... that's awesome! And so true.


----------



## mrdje (Jun 9, 2011)

RockKramer said:


> To be fair to Rex he did start out saying he wondered if making your own custom LED DRL's could be done. Then he said "*ok people i found it.*". It looks like he's just tried to translate a lot of the original work of someone else, as shown by mrdje. I'm not sure Rex is claiming the work as his own, *he's just not given credit where credit is due.* Maybe...?


And when you look at Jis's work, that makes a big difference to me...

When i'm posting someone else work, i'm ALWAYS posting the links where i found it, and when i can i directly ask the creator if i can post his content. That's just respect.

I don't really care, but i'm just thinking about JIS, about his hard work and how gratefull we all should be about his experimentations... 
If you want a lot of how-to (made by JIS) on your TT, just have a look on this website:
http://www.audi-connecttion.com/st/Jis


----------



## RockKramer (Feb 15, 2012)

Totally agree mrdje... Respect and credit should've been given, no doubt... I seem to remember reading recently Rex is 21, his post are mad, fun, cheeky and not malicious... I think we jumped to his defence because he loves, no he's sick with TT fever of the brain, adores TT's and really an Ok guy... I'm sure he'll give due respect & credit when he sees earlier comments.


----------



## mrdje (Jun 9, 2011)

RockKramer said:


> Totally agree mrdje... Respect and credit should've been given, no doubt... I seem to remember reading recently Rex is 21, his post are mad, fun, cheeky and not malicious... I think we jumped to his defence because he loves, no he's sick with TT fever of the brain, adores TT's and really an Ok guy... I'm sure he'll give due respect & credit when he sees earlier comments.


So there is no prob for my part :wink:

I just wanted to make the situation clear, everybody was saying thanks to him, but you've got to keep some thanks for JIS :twisted:


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> That's funny, but it's seems to me that's I 've seen this post somewhere else... But it wasn't your's TT-REX...? [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> Is that's your car in picture?


no it isnt my TT in those pictures, and the real link i found it was here http://www.forum-auto.com/pole-technique/mecanique-electronique/sujet566578.htm


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

i did my best to translate all the french whit a tranlator thing


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

RockKramer said:


> Wow look at us all defending Rex... How cool is that


 :lol:


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> RockKramer said:
> 
> 
> > To be fair to Rex he did start out saying he wondered if making your own custom LED DRL's could be done. Then he said "*ok people i found it.*". It looks like he's just tried to translate a lot of the original work of someone else, as shown by mrdje. I'm not sure Rex is claiming the work as his own, *he's just not given credit where credit is due.* Maybe...?
> ...


u need an account for that


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> RockKramer said:
> 
> 
> > Totally agree mrdje... Respect and credit should've been given, no doubt... I seem to remember reading recently Rex is 21, his post are mad, fun, cheeky and not malicious... I think we jumped to his defence because he loves, no he's sick with TT fever of the brain, adores TT's and really an Ok guy... I'm sure he'll give due respect & credit when he sees earlier comments.
> ...


those who thanks me thought it was my TT and my work, which wasnt


----------



## mrdje (Jun 9, 2011)

TT-REX said:


> mrdje said:
> 
> 
> > RockKramer said:
> ...


And...? That's free and with that you can say THANKS to the guy that have made the post...

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=56739


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

^ i dint knew the guy was a TT forum member also .. ok ill say thanks to him .. happy now


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> But I'm sure TTREX is really pleased having everybody impressed by "his" work...


.


----------



## RockKramer (Feb 15, 2012)

Lol... Ohhhh dear


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

u couldve clicked the little car under my avatar to see if it was my TT ...


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> I'm french and my english is not perfect,


meme chose pour moi


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

anyway thanks to all my backup :lol: who understood my intentions , dont know if it was the right way to phrase it


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

RockKramer said:


> To be fair to Rex he did start out saying he wondered if making your own custom LED DRL's could be done. Then he said "*ok people i found it.*". It looks like he's just tried to translate a lot of the original work of someone else, as shown by mrdje. I'm not sure Rex is claiming the work as his own, he's just not given credit where credit is due. Maybe...?


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

mrdje said:


> When i'm posting someone else work, i'm ALWAYS posting the links where i found it,


u never post anything .. and someone else work :lol:


----------



## jisTT (Mar 29, 2011)

TT-REX said:


> mrdje said:
> 
> 
> > RockKramer said:
> ...


Just write on Google "jis audi tt rs mk2 tutorial 8J" and enjoy


----------



## robbie_boy (Nov 5, 2010)

Well I would have to be one of those people that is going to back TT REX. He never claimed anywhere in the posts that the car was his and that the write up was his.

Thanks *TT REX* cheers


----------



## raj1980 (May 23, 2015)

The headlights look good.


----------



## Blaylock1988 (Dec 29, 2014)

raj1980 said:


> The headlights look good.


Dang dude, if you had waited 1 more week you could have had the highly-coveted 3-year-old-epic-thread-revival-of-doom.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Even so this should probably be moved to the knowledge base


----------



## WoRkZ (Sep 19, 2015)

Next time there's a need to translate something useful from French to English, please let me know and I will find time to do it... this is terrible. :lol: Fais-moi signe la prochaine fois que tu veux publier quelque chose à partir d'une source française... je vais faire la traduction. :wink:


----------

