# TT 8N Build by James (Mk1 RS)



## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok right the build is well and truly underway we now have new break discs and pads all the way around the new headset is fitted and the external microphone to support the Bluetooth is stealth installed. So my first build pics post after this will be showing how all these mods came together. Will keep up to date with all that is going on and hopefully you peeps will enjoy following it. Post regarding current installs will be put up tonight so stay tuned.

Thanks all J

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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Why Mk1 RS ?

How about a picture of the car as it is now ?


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So why Mk1 RS, well in my opinion and this is just mine, they never made a Mk1 RS model just the 3.2 so Imwanted to try to create something that would be worthy of being given that name in the Mk1. I know loads of you are cringing while reading this but I wanted a goal and that was what was in my mind. I had wanted a TT since I was a kid and now I have one and being older I want to give it all the things that it should have had if Audi did not have budgets and a certain ordinance in mind. So that is the outline for my build take out the expense spared and add in the bits we all hoped it would have....... Or I would hope it had. GAME ON

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

jamman said:


> Why Mk1 RS ?
> 
> How about a picture of the car as it is now ?












225 with 71k on the clock in great nick no leaked only rest where u would expect and basically surface. Wish bones exhaust etc but basically lush

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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

Welcome to the forum - look forward to seeing what you do with your build.

Matt


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks Matt much appreciated dude.

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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Good luck with it, looks a nice clean example.

Was worried it had a horrible big grill from looking at your avatar picture


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

jamman said:


> Good luck with it, looks a nice clean example.
> 
> Was worried it had a horrible big grill from looking at your avatar picture


I think he photoshopped the photo he posted as to what he wants it to look like.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So as I said just put in my microphone for my Bluetooth. So first thing to do was strip down the centre console.










Then I had to remove the air blower vent from the dash. They come out fine just prise from the back then you can just take them out by hand. I then drilled a hole as close to the housing as possible. And fitted the mic close to the front of the opening. Then fed the cord down to the back of the stereo tided the cable and test fitted the head unit. Then tested the quality. After that was happy and put the air vent back for what I like as a really nice stealth fit.










You can just see the mic in the left of the vent and from in the car is totally un-noticeable. The mic I used was the Autoleads for Sony head units.

Next on the list is the centre console trim in suede new gaiter and hand milled gear knob. Also trimming glove box and tunnel but first things first.

More tomorrow. Ow yeah and borrowed this from brother in law for dash mods










Enjoy all. Welcome comments and feedback.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Do you plan on using the phone on a cold/hot day with the blowers on?! :lol:


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Shhhhhhwoooosssshhhhhhsshhhhhhhhhhellosssshhhhwwssssaaaaaashhhhhhhhwosssahhhhhh


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

"Mate, call me back when your not sky diving"


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

NickG said:


> "Mate, call me back when your not sky diving"


 :lol:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

I completely agree with all of you I'm glad this has already attracted some banter. Believe it or not because it is a forward facing Mike it makes no difference and also 90% of the time the heater lives on the windscreen or I just use the seats, plus don't really feel cold. But for now I have closed the vent on that side and taken the cog of and realigned it to the top so it stays closed at the mo. It's a fix that works for me and keeps everything cable and mic free in the cabin. PS great big lols for the sky diving comment hehe.

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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

The_TT_Yoda said:


> I completely agree with all of you I'm glad this has already attracted some banter. Believe it or not because it is a forward facing Mike it makes no difference and also 90% of the time the heater lives on the windscreen or I just use the seats, plus don't really feel cold. But for now I have closed the vent on that side and taken the cog of and realigned it to the top so it stays closed at the mo. It's a fix that works for me and keeps everything cable and mic free in the cabin. PS great big lols for the sky diving comment hehe.
> 
> Sent to you from The Mighty TT Yoda


you're a good sport, I like you


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> The_TT_Yoda said:
> 
> 
> > I completely agree with all of you I'm glad this has already attracted some banter. Believe it or not because it is a forward facing Mike it makes no difference and also 90% of the time the heater lives on the windscreen or I just use the seats, plus don't really feel cold. But for now I have closed the vent on that side and taken the cog of and realigned it to the top so it stays closed at the mo. It's a fix that works for me and keeps everything cable and mic free in the cabin. PS great big lols for the sky diving comment hehe.
> ...


^^^ THIS ^^^

Fair play :lol:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right time for some cup holders as having to jam my drinks into my crutch for the duration of long trips is starting to wear thin.

So you start with this a £1.99 over door cup holder from Halfords saw the top of and try to work out a way to join it to its mate getting as much strength as pos.










Ok then using the off cuts from the long arms for some support in the middle get the industrial strength super glue out and begin not almost gluing ya fingers together as with the activator this stuff goes off straight away, and I do mean straight away.










After that I cut some cusp Bing for the base to stop any annoying noise. You may see where my design has come from but Inwas blowed if I'm paying £100 for the OEM one.










My filler turns up tomorrow to make the seem well seem less then it's undercoat, then mat black and I have some chrome trim to trim the top in. Then secure to interior and no more cold wet well yeah that.










Will post the filler work going on when it turns up.

Hope I still have some interest in this project. Will post the imminent mods coming up in a separate feed after this.

ENJOY

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## hey3688 (Oct 4, 2013)

A few members have modded these to fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car ... 35f573cc72


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

hey3688 said:


> A few members have modded these to fit.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car ... 35f573cc72


Thanks dude will get one, really like the top part could butcher it to add to my custom job. 

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Filler turned up today so filled the middle section of my cup holder before I go off to badminton in a bit then I can start the sanding painting etc tomorrow.










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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Got some internal trim today and I am so so so pleased with them. Custom heavy milled gear knob and custom embroider TT leather gaiter they are really great so on that note gonna jump in the car and head to my badminton match tonight and enjoy them. The quality of both is great and supper please service from both vendors was great as well. A happy boy.










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## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

The_TT_Yoda said:


> Got some internal trim today and I am so so so pleased with them. Custom heavy milled gear knob and custom embroider TT leather gaiter they are really great so on that note gonna jump in the car and head to my badminton match tonight and enjoy them. The quality of both is great and supper please service from both vendors was great as well. A happy boy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is beautiful


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Done the sand down, primer, mat top coat and clear coat. Once dry tomorrow put the chrome trim round the top and I have bought one of the holders recommended earlier in thread to steal the top of. Tomorrow starts the interior trimming.










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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right..... centre console trim, yeah cos this was not a tricky bit of trim for my first upholstering job at all, this thing has so many bloody angles it's untrue but however after a day of messing around with it, and my new cup holder the centre panel is trimmed and I just have the top to the cup holder to go on which I am stealing from the eBay recommendation from earlier in this thread.














































All done but really hard work, I feel that after this gem future upholstery jobs will be a walk in the park. My advice to any one is work in section and go slow that way you will get a better finish. Saying that I am defo not 100% happy the ash tray may still be painted and I made a mistake where I had to add a join but you would never know on the hole I am a bit of a perfectionist and it's going back in the car so must be alright. Also got some more bits turn up but will run a separate thread in a mo for that.

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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Well done for attempting it. I did mine in leather a couple of years ago:
















Its much easier to do it in two pieces. You can very easily hide the join down the line where the flap meets the panel. It gives a much neater job.

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Good to here from you Garth read your original build post and got a lot of inspiration from it, love working on the car and trying bits I now have the centre tunnel out to trim and paint combo. Currently have OEM wheels being powder coated also.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Got some Bridgestone Patenza to go on when the wheels come back and also having centre caps being custom painted as well.

















y

The end colour of the car will be a blue grey with red detail so setting up ready for that. Last bit of cup holder should be here Monday and enamel painting break disks and callipers as per Garth's build on Wednesday also.

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## Nem (Feb 14, 2005)

You know I read "Mk1 RS" and thought here we go again....

To be fair though the cupholder, gear leaver and console trim has made me see how serious this build is, and in fact changed my opinion on the necessity of the 2.5l 5 cyl to make the 'holy grail' of Mk1's.

Keep up the good work, and don't take this post too seriously  8)


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Nem said:


> You know I read "Mk1 RS" and thought here we go again....
> 
> To be fair though the cupholder, gear leaver and console trim has made me see how serious this build is, and in fact changed my opinion on the necessity of the 2.5l 5 cyl to make the 'holy grail' of Mk1's.
> 
> Keep up the good work, and don't take this post too seriously  8)


Ta Nem, well it feels like forward progress is being made which is always good and yeah I feel a little bit like the Mk 1 225 is the epicentre of it all, small 1.8ltr turbo sports car with great looks that just needed that little bit more love to its inner working that Audi was not prepared to give at the time and then yeah grail maybe 

But no not to serious ever this is great fun I love working on her and in the end I just hope to have something I am really proud of and maybe a few others will look on with a nod of approval.

Next up more painting on Tuesday.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Just started marking out my head unit surround ready to cut out and trim tomorrow, will be going in the car on Wednesday.










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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Onto the centre handbrake tunnel did all the rubbing down and as the graphics on the outside of the car are set to be red have started bringing that inside the vehicle as well now with some red detail in the tunnel.










Have also added more suede to the top part where the gear stick is. The sliding box kid will also be red.










Also lightly dropped back in other pieces to get an idea cup holder will be fully finished today just waiting for top to get here. Now it's just final clear coat to go on and we are as good as done.



















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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Love your effort on this project.

What's with the peeled patch of red around the handbrake?


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

NickG said:


> Love your effort on this project.
> 
> What's with the peeled patch of red around the handbrake?


On initial masking up I made what is technically known as a "cock up" and had to repair on later coats with a template to add layers to that section. It's not perfect but it is pretty good and will be under the hand break so my ocd can just about bear it.

Here are the final pics with the clear coat on and the old knob and gaiter balanced in as well. (Which are for sale by the way)














































Quite excited for these to go back in tomorrow morning now, cup holder top did not arrive  But will be enamel edging break disks and painting callipers on Wednesday so stripping those off car while it is still a bit sad on its axel stands.

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## anthony_839 (Apr 9, 2013)

The_TT_Yoda said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Love your effort on this project.
> ...


The red aint for me but the swede bit... now that looks nice !


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

That's cool the red will defo not be for everyone. Once in the car a lot less of it will be on direct show so will calm it down a lot. Idea being that the top roof mirrors and spoiler as well as some graphics I have planed will be red so this ties it all in on the car. Thanks for the suede like after trimming the centre console this bit was a piece of cake. Thought I would post a pic of the colour scheme as well so you have all got an idea of the final plan.










I liked the idea of this as it was a bit different. There will be an old school style Quattro graphic down the side just like on the Fiat as a nod to the original Quattro as well as a solid red roof to mirror the fast Audi standard of changing the top roof colour plus I just love this unusual grey but not colour.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Hay all looking to put some extra interior lights into the car and was wondering the best/easiest way to tap into the interior lighting system to get this to happen. For example when I open the doors the lights come on in that fashion and likewise when I stop etc. I also have some to mount that I want to come on when the headlights are turned on. Your thoughts and suggestions would be very welcome guys and gals as always please. Thank you in advance.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Got the interior back in and the brake callipers and discs off ready to shock blast tomorrow and paint. Also fitting new rear shocks as one was on way out on one side so keeping it even. Going for Billy's as will mirror rest of kit when it goes on.




























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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Are you planning to repaint the car? Red and blue seems to American, even for me :lol:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

No the blue grey that the 500 Abarth is in the previous photo in the post with red mirrors roof centre caps on wheels and spoiler. Hence carrying the scheme inside to tie in with the exterior.

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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

That Abarth looks 95% grey, which is why the Red seems to work on it. That's just my opinion, and why I asked if you were going to paint the TT the same color or a different one.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Better picture of the actual colour I saw on the car that drove past me that I liked.










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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Few pics of where I have been working at AC's Performance Car Parts in Bridgewater Somerset. Thought all would appreciate the inspiration I have enjoyed working around all day.

Mini Cooper S Touring Cup car with 350bhp and lighter than a cat









The Mk1 Escort Rally car being built from ground up & a Sprite 


















More build pics to come when I get home just waiting to pick my fiancé up from uni at mo.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right a busy day it was today, the aim was to clean and prep all brake callipers and discs and then also get some hammerite on the hub shrouds to stop future surface rust issues. I did not paint any other metal work in the wheel space as these components will be changed really soon. I also got some copper slip on the contact surface to protect the surface.










After removing the front callipers completely and moving onto the rear I decided rather than going through the hassle of removing hand break lines etc I could clean the calliper and sand it well enough and paint it in situ. So that is the option I went for. I masked off the rubber sleeve as not to get paint on it then off I went.



















Once rear calipers had been given in total three coats in between I started cleaning and prepping the front calipers ready for paint and then yes painted them.



















In between calliper coats I got to cleaning and lightly sanding the break discs as well as masking them ready for the high heat enamel paint.



















Then sprayed them up 2 coats seemed plenty.










After a lot of work I was left with a finished product I was very very happy with.



















Wheels are back from the powder coater tomorrow and when we removed the original tyres we saw an inside wear spot on the rear suggesting a rear shock on the way out, so 2 new rear Bilstein shocks have been ordered, which is fine as that a chunk of the cost of my suspension system already paid for letting me spread out the cost before I buy srings and front shocks. Ow yeah and we have a front drivers side cv boot to replace.

Opinions welcome as always. Hope you enjoy the read.

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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

The_TT_Yoda said:


> Hay all looking to put some extra interior lights into the car and was wondering the best/easiest way to tap into the interior lighting system to get this to happen. For example when I open the doors the lights come on in that fashion and likewise when I stop etc. I also have some to mount that I want to come on when the headlights are turned on. Your thoughts and suggestions would be very welcome guys and gals as always please. Thank you in advance.
> 
> Sent to you by TT Yoda


For lights that come on with the sidelights, you can tap into the wires behind the cigarette lighter. For the lights that come on with the unlock of the car, it's a bit trickier. You will have to take the passenger side end panel off the dashboard (opposite side to the fuse panel) and splice open the cable protector. The larger bundle of cables. You need to patch into the brown/white wire and red/black wire. Good luck.


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## blues1143 (Oct 26, 2014)

watersbluebird said:


> The_TT_Yoda said:
> 
> 
> > Hay all looking to put some extra interior lights into the car and was wondering the best/easiest way to tap into the interior lighting system to get this to happen. For example when I open the doors the lights come on in that fashion and likewise when I stop etc. I also have some to mount that I want to come on when the headlights are turned on. Your thoughts and suggestions would be very welcome guys and gals as always please. Thank you in advance.
> ...


Yes to clarify, you need to open up the loom going up into the A pillar and look for the red and black wire. It goes 12V when the car is unlocked and stays at that until the car is locked.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

blues1143 said:


> watersbluebird said:
> 
> 
> > The_TT_Yoda said:
> ...


Thanks loads this helps a lot and I have lights that I want to come on with ignition etc and also when I turn on interior light in cabin so lots of fun stuff for me to play with. Will post pics when I do it as I assume this will help others as well. THANKS AGAIN

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## blues1143 (Oct 26, 2014)

Ignition you can use the busbar under the steering wheel and for on with the interior lights switch you will need to take a feed after the switch!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

blues1143 said:


> Ignition you can use the busbar under the steering wheel and for on with the interior lights switch you will need to take a feed after the switch!


Nice that's what I was thinking ta again for all your help.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Bit of an update this was actually yesterday but been busy, nothing that exciting just did the paint around the gear stick. I decided to do this with it in situ to stop any scraping while putting the hand break tunnel back in. If it has to come back out in the future and it does scratch I will address that then.










Coat of lacquer to go on when I am back at the work shop. Also wheels came back today (will not get to see them till Monday) but will not get to work on the car now till Monday so wheels back on shocks done, also the cv boot sorted at same time. Ow yeah and track rod ends ready for re align once wheels are back on. Exciting times before X-mas.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right more work done on the car today. Finished the centre console and put all that back together with the addition of the new ali Pro Bolt kit which I am really pleased with. Was just the clear coat to put on round the gear stick so no big deal, but another job well done.










Once that game was done it was onto the rear shocks. As when the wheels were removed there was a funny localised wearing on the inside of the passenger rear. So the plan is always to replace in pairs so 2x new Bilstein B6 Gas over oil shocks were ordered up by the brother in law Nick. Removal is really easy. First of is take out all the star head screws. Then remove the top 16mm top bolt.



















And then the 21mm bottom bolt.










I then went and cleaned the inside and outside of the arch as this was in need of some tlc










However upon inspection of the inner arch was super chuffed as all looked really well not a sign of any rust in either arch and both in great condition. Then time to put the new shocks back in. All bolts were put over the linisher and had a good coat of copper grease and tightened. Top bolt to 44lbs and bottom to 81lbs the ta da.










Arches back in and then just a few more little jobs tided all bolts to go back in on breaking parts, and did some more work on the custom head unit surround, and then it was about tie to head off home. There was a mix up with wheels so back on Wed/Thur to do breaks wheels CV joint track rod ends and maybe wish bones and bushes.

All in all a good day and really pleased with how the shocks and work is looking.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

My wing man and brother in law Nick has just sent me this pic at what has just turned up in the workshop tonight. I almost drove over for a look. Super excited to get some rubber on them tomorrow. Also just wondering what these OEM 18's are referred to as if you guys and gals know, which I am sure you do. Also keen on comments, I know it's not the best pic. Centre caps will be black outer still showing chrome bolts with red centre to match inside and black rings. Thanks again and I hope some people are reading this and finding it a bit interesting....










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## Lewis100985 (Jun 24, 2013)

Good work so far pal, wheels will look very nice on the car with some clean rubber wrapped around!

Not sure on the arch liner selfie though... haha!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Yeah was a little bit risky, was actually a picture sent to the wife when she asked what I was up to, and then when it came around to writing this up it just went in. Poor choices I know. Glad u like the wheels looking forward to see them in person this afternoon after work, quite excited now.

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## Lewis100985 (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm sure there will be lots of good pictures when they're fitted.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok just a quick post as am knackered after a long day. Took the car for its MOT knowing I had a CV boot to change and maybe a slight break leak issue. Both of these things were flagged on the test but also de da derrrrr, both front rear bushes had excessive play in them, and once off well u can see.



















There is an F shaped word to describe what they both were. I used Superpro bushes, I took advice of the very knowledgeable guys I get to share a garage with who tool some amazing performance cars and cannot argue with the judgement when they say they knock Powerflex out of the park. Here is a quick shifty at the finished product.



















Amazing fit and look a treat. Then we did the CV boo erm yuk but hay ho.










Once new copper washers on breaks and a quick double check for air we had gone past dropping it next door for a re test so did a quick road test that all seemed good. Came back to the garage and when heading home realised I had a big pull and camber follow someone thinks it may have been tracked with the knackered bushes in so not to much as to wreck the tyres, but now with new straight ones in the trip for a laser align tomorrow after fitting the newt rack rod ends could not come soon enough. A quick wheel pick and I will make sure to get a better one tomorrow. Thanks all.










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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Seems like you're beginning to experience the joys of TT maintenance... Change one thing and everything else you look at is broken/failed/worn out! 
I suspect, like me, you'll end up replacing every single wear and tear item on this car within the next 6-12 months ;-)

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Garth said:


> Seems like you're beginning to experience the joys of TT maintenance... Change one thing and everything else you look at is broken/failed/worn out!
> I suspect, like me, you'll end up replacing every single wear and tear item on this car within the next 6-12 months ;-)
> 
> http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


Hahaha good point! Every new owner buys a TT in immaculate perfect tip top condition but after few weeks/months realise bushes are shot, thermostat sticking, ratle this, not working that.

The thermostat amazes me most of all. The days without coolant/thermostat questions can be counted on one hand :lol:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So we have an MOT yay. Solved the leak on the breaks and fitted the track rod ends, which was pretty straight forward. Loosens of the nut half a turn and brushed and viper slipped up everything.










Ow yeah I put the new dust caps on the wheels as well this morning NICE.



















Ow yeah it did look like this.



















Top tip to loosen the track rod top nut use a gear box jack under the base like so.










Then bang the impact driver on the top and all is well.










Old and new ends










Tighten all back up and all is well. Here she is sitting on the ramp behind the shevette.










And a picture of her outside the house dirty already.










The best part of the day today as well was the price of fuel filling up the misses car as well.










Going for a Kaiser track at three so pictures up later on today. Have a good day all.

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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Keep up the good work!

A little note on the dust caps you put on the tires. Most metal/aftermarket ones have a tendacy to corrode to the nipple due to road debris and the salt. When you want to inflate tires they are impossible to get off ending up replacing the tire valve :wink:


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## hey3688 (Oct 4, 2013)

Beunhaas said:


> Keep up the good work!
> 
> A little note on the dust caps you put on the tires. Most metal/aftermarket ones have a tendacy to corrode to the nipple due to road debris and the salt. When you want to inflate tires they are impossible to get off ending up replacing the tire valve :wink:


I can second that, been there got the T shirt


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Need some advice, after changing to front rear bushes on the wish bone the car has been handling really weird I have had it laser tracked and still on acceleration it pulls to the left then flops back to the right when u ease off and generally feels quite floppy. Is this because I have not changed the other bushes on the wish bone to match or could it be any other mods I have done recent. Thank you in advance for you help all.

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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

When you say laser tracked, do you mean just the tracking has been checked, or has it been properly aligned? Tracking is only part of the alignment (I'm sure you know this already) and you can get it spot on, but the other alignments can still be way out.

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Basically front and back were tracked and aligned because back does not have adjustable camber as standard it was out according to the system but however both sides were equal. So I think about 2.5% top in on both sides

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Can photo results and post if helps. It was a snap on machine high accuracy from what I have seen

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Before










After










Really pleased with the service, the guy doing the set up was really knowledgeable, at moment have no rear camber adjust but pleased with result, not spot spot on but near is close enough considering other bits changing soon. But any input based on current issues would be much appreciated. Thanks all

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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

You're right, the alignment is good apart from the rear camber, which is common. It certainly wouldn't cause the issue you've described. I would look for something loose in the joints at the front. Also, you can get perfect alignment with totally knackered ARB bushes. Is one side shot perhaps? Is the steering rack correctly fitted and tight? Drive shafts OK? I assume the sub frame is tight, otherwise it would be pretty difficult to align it correctly! 
Are the tyres even left to right with decent tread? You did tighten the wheel nuts? I forgot once and the wheels nearly feel off on a test drive after changing the suspension on my last TT!

Lots of variables to check here but my money is on something loose or worn.

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right all is well and all is sorted. The first thing to look at was the drive shaft on the right as we changed the boot the other day, this was all fine so the wheel went back on. All the nuts were checked and both front wheels swapped. This did not change anything after a test drive. So the next thing was to change the inner front bushes on the control arm as if either of these were worn could be throwing out the new stiffer poly SuperPro bush. This is what I found.










Once pushed out.










Not sure why I did not check it when I put the others in, bit excited I think.

The front rear bush again.










But however once fitted the problem has been cured straight away. So for the many threads on here I have seen started to do with cars pulling left, while trying to do research into my own problem I would suggest checking the control arm bushes as this completely destroyed the ride and had an instant effect on the cars pull it would seem that either of the inner front bushes would seem to be the culprit. I'm not suggesting that this will be the answer for all but after correcting the inner rears for new and leaving others the effect was instant. I hope my mistake may help others or at least teach to check other parts while they are off hehe.

Thanks again for your input and suggestions Garth they are always really helpful and appreciated.

Sent to you by TT Yoda


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Excellent, well done. 
If I'm ever replacing wishbone bushes, I do them all at the same time. The cost of the bushes is not that much and you'll save on any labour (if not doing them yourself) and hassle of having to remove them twice. Plus, on these cars I've noticed that most of the bushes tend to start dying at the same rate anyway

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Thought I'd throw in an up to date picture of the car. But yeah was super chuffed I had solved the problem nothing like putting the effort in and getting to the end of it. The RS002's are amazing in the wet as well and the steering on bushes and rear shocks is lovely can't wait to get it lower and the springs in. Next job light igniter, headlight restoration and oil change, dump drop clean and filter. Then first job of new year cam belt and water pump, thermostat and temp sensor. Also interested in some one sentence answers to what's it like to do a cam belt change. Thanks all 










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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Cam belt is actually pretty straight forward on these cars. I did mine on the drive in a couple of hours. It's on my first restoration thread.
You can buy a continental kit from ecp which users oem parts and you can get it with damper for less than £120 with a discount code too. Do the water pump at the same time. 5 mins to do when the belt is off and they're cheap 

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## Lewis100985 (Jun 24, 2013)

Very nice colour combo fella, I like it.



The_TT_Yoda said:


> Thought I'd throw in an up to date picture of the car. But yeah was super chuffed I had solved the problem nothing like putting the effort in and getting to the end of it. The RS002's are amazing in the wet as well and the steering on bushes and rear shocks is lovely can't wait to get it lower and the springs in. Next job light igniter, headlight restoration and oil change, dump drop clean and filter. Then first job of new year cam belt and water pump, thermostat and temp sensor. Also interested in some one sentence answers to what's it like to do a cam belt change. Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Lewis100985 said:


> Very nice colour combo fella, I like it.
> 
> Thanks mate appreciate it
> 
> Sent to you by TT Yoda


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Garth said:


> Cam belt is actually pretty straight forward on these cars. I did mine on the drive in a couple of hours. It's on my first restoration thread.
> You can buy a continental kit from ecp which users oem parts and you can get it with damper for less than £120 with a discount code too. Do the water pump at the same time. 5 mins to do when the belt is off and they're cheap
> 
> http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


It seems very much so on all my reading. Did read your first thread front to back, maybe twice now ;-) found a continental kit with metal impellers as well so good times. Do u change the thermostat at the same time. Is there anything else to sort or address while the belt is off? Thanks again for your interest and input.

Sent to you by TT Yoda


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

No problem. You don't need to do the Thermostat at the same time. It's actually pretty easy to do and can be done at any time, so if your car gets to 90 degrees and stays there, just leave the Thermostat for now. There's nothing else you really need to do other than the belt, pulley and tensioner.

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right we are on to cup holder mark 2, because basically I thought the first one was crap. Once I received my cup holder from Japan to mod as recommended by hey3688, "thanks again dude" I found a new bit of inspiration to use ideas I had from the mark 1 try and use in addition with the mark 2 attempt. This is what happened and what I ended up with. 100% better.










Bit of filler



















Then after the paint and chrome trim and top was on and this time left with something I am really really pleased to have in the car.



















All done. Had a xenon ignitor turn up yesterday that was wrong to repair light but have now ordered correct one. Headlight restoration as well and that will keep me going until I sell the restored and repaired lights to pay for the new ones that will be going in. Good day in general despite this cold that is driving me mental.

Sent to you by TT Yoda


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## Leesey (Dec 6, 2015)

Looks good.
I need to get the cam belt done on the family wagon (Renault grand scenic) but I'm not doing it myself. Just scared to I spose..........
The colour combination as said above looks good and so does the cup holder!

Jon


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

All the info suggests that cam belt is pretty straight forward on the TT and with ramps tools etc should be easy. I also have the Bentley manual to refer to for help. Thanks yeah pleased with the holder, car will eventually be aviator grey with red decal. An eggs ample of colour.










Then some red graphics and roof, spoiler etc.










On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Cup holder now finished and installed, really pleased with it works a treat and totally amazing.



















Then it was onto the custom head unit surround. This has been a work in progress for a couple of weeks now shaving but by but to get it just right as the top and bottom parts of the surround are so small and thin. In the end I was happy with the fit and that there was enough space around the edge to allow for the trim. Also this is a very tricky thing to wrap due to the thin nature so taking your time is key and also making sure u have enough adhesive so you get a good stick on the thin edges and small sections. In the end I was left with this you can see how fine the thin parts are.



















With the head unit offered up for a lady fit check.










Then it was finally fitted into the car and the end result is so so much better that the supplied Auto Leads answer which as we all know is naff to say the least. I did us part of the Auto Leads firing to act as a locator mount for the new surround which worked really well. Here it is fitted in the car.



















As always your comments and opinions are welcome, on the whole I am super chuffed with both new addition. ON TO THE NEXT JOB......

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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

It's starting to come together nicely. Just be careful with how much red you add to the car imo.



Nice red shift gate bolts btw :wink:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> It's starting to come together nicely. Just be careful with how much red you add to the car imo.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice red shift gate bolts btw :wink:


Ta mate yeah only other red will be bottom lip of the glove box, door grabs and door handle recess. Seats will have red edges and some logo detail after that bottom part of dash will be trimmed in suede as well. Gonna try and photoshop some bit together when I get time but I think it should not blow it over the top.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right update on the build time today after 2 days of feeling very very sick I got on some car bits and the job of the day was trip the glove box and surround and paint the bottom lip of the panel.

To start, here is the distructions for removing the box and surround.




























I would like to add this is all pretty easy until it comes to removing the locking mechanism which I have to say is a colossal BIATCHHHHHH. My only advice is you can be a bit tougher than u think I did not use the driver in the end as was worried about marking the ali I just pried apart with my hand and pulled quite hard.

So then a masking mission before paint. Ow yeah and a sand down.




























So after some undercoat it was time for some RED. Got carried away and in the zone so took photos once finished the glove box, which is a bit trick to get right but once you slide the tray back in it hides a multitude of sins and helps pull everything tight. Just take your time around the hinged legs.



















After the glove box the bottom seemed less daunting but was still quite tricky and took a bit of planning. But in the end it all came together.










Sealed inside the box first then went from there.










But once in and finished I was super super chuffed and the lock is a little easier to instal than it is to take out. So pleased with the results.





































One more bit done and a step closer. Need to order some more material as am almost out. Also my Mk4 Golf bulb holder has arrived. So twin break light conversion probably next job. 2 pins have already been spoken for so after mine have 1 left if any 1 is interested.










Happy boy time for a drive 

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Hay all I have changed my user name to co inside with a Twitter feed I am starting and also because when changing email info on my old account it just stopped working. So I apologise if this has screwed things up a bit but I used to be the_tt_yoda. Anyway that nonsense out the was now on to the next post in this thread.

On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So after receiving my Mk4 golf bulb holder it was time to kill it off to get the clips out.










After that good bit of stress relief you have 5 of these.










So the next job is to remove your rear lights, an easy job just pop open the back hatches in the boot unscrew the black and white securing fasteners and then slide out pop off the retaining clip and unplug it from the loom.










Remove the two Philips head screws and you have your bulb holder.










Remover all the bulbs just in case and you will see where u have removed one of the twin contact bulbs there is only one contact, and this is the one that needs an extra one. First pry up the contact to get access to drop the new clip in.



















Then slide the new contact in making sure it is pushed down fully place the contact that you prised up down in place, and that's basically it. Screw it all back together plug the loom back in. (GIVE IT A TEST BEFORE PUTTING BACK IN PROPERLY) great break lights like they should have been.



















Love this mod easy to do and takes an hour if ya on a go slow. Quite keen to do waks other symmetry mods now but next is cam belt. Also I have a couple of clips to get rid of. I had promised two to someone but can't access my old messages so if they spot this please DM me otherwise please DM if you are interested.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## gav1 (May 5, 2015)

just done this mod today.... mk4 bulb holder was £10 delivered from flea bay, salvage of clips and installation was around 20 mins for 2 cars, I did both my car and my brothers as you get 5 clips from a bulb holder and need 2 per TT.
brilliant quick cheap mod. I have some symmetry patches on order to complete the look.

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## gav1 (May 5, 2015)

.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Good work Gav looks sweet mate and snap on the TT colouridge as well dude. Lovin the plate as well.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Right so today it's on to the final part of re trimming. The drivers side looked like it should not be to bad compared to the other parts I had already done, but as always little challenge always seem to pop up. I stated by removing the dash.



















Not to bad left hand side was quite well in but came off fine with a bit of persuasion. Had a bit of taping up to do as did not want to trim the whole thing as did not feel it was quite necessary.










After that I started undercoating the headlight switch surround.



















Once I started wrapping the dash I got a bit carried away so did not take any intermediate shots. So here is the finished piece.










Now with the stitch installed and all put back together outside of the car.










And then a little mod I really like. I have my phone in a window mounted holder to the right of the steering wheel so I have made a housing to install two usb points for charging my phone without strewing cables all across the car. These are the switches and the mount for them to sit in.



















All in all a good days work, waiting for loads of bits to turn up including the usb point. Will get a pic once finished in car.

Don't have access to my garage at the mo but once I do some more engine side mods will be going on. Right I'm off to bed catch you all soon. Comments welcome as always.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

As promised some final installed pics.




























Still am waiting for my USB ports to arrive so will have to come back out but had to drive the car today and wanted to see it in so yeah it went back in.

Would be keen to find out people's favourite place to pick up 12V switched power, I have my radio linked to the ring terminal under the drivers side footwell on the far left. I need to pick up others for various other bits. I assume for my USB points as most would use a cigarette lighter adaptor with a plug, wiring to the back of the lighter would be best to keep things straight forward or to just use the terminal under the wheel again? I will run an inline fuse to protect bits so I assume that would be ok?!!?

Also one of my other jobs to do will be extra lighting. Footwell LED's, internal door handle LED's and maybe air vent also. Some will turn on when internal lights turn on auto eg unlock car or open door etc. Some will turn on when headlights are turned on. So questions.

Where would I wire to get lights to turn on when?

1. Car is unlocked/Ignition turned off
2. Turned on when interior light is turned on
3. Turned on when head lights are turned on
4. Combination of 1 & 2 (I assume wire to both places suggested for 1 and 2.

Will it cause any issues joining the same circuits for the same things. I assume as running low voltage LED's there should be no issues.

Any help people can give will be much appreciated.

Thanks guys for all your help.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Hello

[c]#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing [/c]


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

#MythicBooster said:


> Hello
> 
> [c]#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing [/c]


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So I thought I would post some more as more bits have gone on. But if anyone has helpful info as regards my wiring question would still be keen to hear what people have to say.

Anyway spacers and stud conversion done today and let's just say some what pleased with the outcome.

Started up by hand tightening everything on so could offer it all up to see if I was happy with the fit.










In the end I went for Delta Mics 20mm back 15mm from. My brother in law at AC's Performance Parts in Bridgewater recommended them. They run them on most of there rally cars, have never had one fail or had any bad feedback from there customers or for use on there own cars. So for me I was sold, if people are interested can source these for forum members at a great price after a conversation with my bro. Can get most other bits as well just message me and I will get u a price or message me a part and price and I will see if I can beat it.

Anyway enough pitching stuff lol, ow yeah got some more car porn pics.



















So after my tea and letching I set about the stud conversion, not forgetting the lock tight stud lock.










I used this gear.










After they were all locked on I was left with a great looking stance. Forgot to take a like for like but here is a before and afters.










After




























Really pleased and once the new front shocks and springs are on ohhhhhhhhh BABY.

Thought I would get a bit of cheese in as well my folks got me some new OMP overalls for Christmas so sent them a pic as was there first outing today. Thought I would share it with you guys and gals.










Then to finish off what was a great day with good jobs done my new mats, mag sump plug and UPVC for USB housing was waiting at home. So yeah of course the mats went in and I tried to get a pic.










Last but not lease gave AC's a parts list to order so will have induction kit and some Castrol Edge for inducing stuff and oiling stuff on Friday. Good times.

Hope some people are reading this and finding it a bit interesting, I'm having a great time at least and enjoying documenting the build here, hope you all sleep well and I'll add some more on Friday.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> #MythicBooster said:
> 
> 
> > Hello
> ...


Hay gonz was trying to centre my signature and failing lol but hello non the less.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Where would I wire to get lights to turn on when?

1. Car is unlocked/Ignition turned off= wire to *** lighter at its rear.
2. Turned on when interior light is turned on= wires to interior light (behind A pillar trim).
3. Turned on when head lights are turned on= rear of headlight switch. 
4. Combination of 1 & 2 (I assume wire to both places suggested for 1 and 2.

Or, use piggyback fuses on the fuse-board.

Will it cause any issues joining the same circuits for the same things. I assume as running low voltage LED's there should be no issues= all should be ok as LED's don't draw much current, but wire whatever in parallel not in series.

Disclaimer- the above are suggestions only and done at your own risk  . If you smell smoke worry, if you see smoke panic  .


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so quite a few bits done yesterday. First I started to solve my cold running engine issues by changing the coolant temp sensor. Nice easy job just remove the cap from the coolant tank first then pull out the circlip, then remove the old temp sensor.

Sensor location, just between air box battery and block.



















Circlip to remove at base of sensor










Old and new sensor. The old was a little bit Blaaaaaackkkkk










All tucked back in again NICE










This is a really easy to do job and defo not one to be scared of.

Next to drain the oil again love a picture to keep these thing easy for people trying stuff on their own. Remove the sump plug with a oil catch in place.










After that it was time to drop the oil sump and give it a real good clean. Before this I had replaced the old dipstick tube and dipstick as both were knackered. Forgot picks of this but will nip out tomorrow and take some finished ones.










Next jobs were clean the sump to get rid of the gunk.










Rather than clean the oil pick up it seemed mad to not just replace it as they are so cheap. Under £10 from ECP.

Some Bentley removal shizzle



















With it being an Ali sump corrosion is still an arse and I like shiny things so hammerite + sump =



















As it was already unbolted I nipped out to SuperPro which is 10mins down the road from the garage and picked up both bushes for the dog bone mount as it was off. This was the old bush and housing.



















So of course this need a bit of bling and sticking to the colour scheme this was another good time to break out the red.










After the bushes were pushed in it was ready for a refit. A word to the wise fitting the round bush is an utter pig. Careful placement with the hydraulic ram made it easier but defo not easy.










In the end it was a long day so forgot final fit pics but back in the garage on Tuesday doing cam belt so will get some pics then.

But to polish off a long day on the way home this made me smile










#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

I'm making good headway on my USB point to go in the drivers side cubby hole and needed some advice. I am going to connect my ports to the back of the *** lighter the red is going on 12v switched and the other on ????? I know this is a really stupid question but wiring is not my strong point. Here is what I have.










Thanks all for your help in advanced as always.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing 

AC's Performance Parts
http://www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so I had also been sorting the door cards. I still have some alcantara to put along the top but my supplier has temporally run out, but no dramas. Just gonna picture log this rather than ramble.














































BEFORE










AFTER



















Really liking it rapping the red round to the doors really helps blend it into the rest of the car. Once the trim on the top is done it will be spot on. Drivers side to do now.

#MythicBooster on my iPhone using the Tappy Crap. 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## Winter20vt (Nov 14, 2015)

Reminds me of my red mk2 golf I had 10 years ago when I was 17, painted all the vent surrounds, door pulls etc red as well :lol: not my cuppa tea anymore but I can appreciate all the work you are putting into it. Leather on the centre console looks great tho!


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## Boruki (Mar 2, 2014)

That looked like a lot of sealant on the sump..?? My pick up was covered in sealant from someone putting too much on before. Couldn't not say something!

Did you say you're going to piggy back the cigarette lighter wires..? If so there should be both red and black anyway? A lot of the negative wires on the car get grouped together in the fuse box area, which is where I wired in my second cig lighter (although I wish I'd just put a straight usb port).


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## gav1 (May 5, 2015)

I remember spending quite a lot of money in ac services a few years ago.... great place tucked out of the way.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Boruki said:


> That looked like a lot of sealant on the sump..?? My pick up was covered in sealant from someone putting too much on before. Couldn't not say something!
> 
> Did you say you're going to piggy back the cigarette lighter wires..? If so there should be both red and black anyway? A lot of the negative wires on the car get grouped together in the fuse box area, which is where I wired in my second cig lighter (although I wish I'd just put a straight usb port).


It's not as bad as it looks, hear what your saying looking back at it now it looks like it's been put on with a shovel lol.

Yeah think I'm going to piggy it makes sense as its an auxiliary port of sorts. Then after that sorting the new interior lights.

#MythicBooster on my iPhone using the Tappy Crap. 
AC's Performance Parts
http://www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

gav1 said:


> I remember spending quite a lot of money in ac services a few years ago.... great place tucked out of the way.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk


Yeah great bunch, there family so a bit bias but they are now on the estate right by the new Morisons depot. Pop in and say hi. I'll be there Tue and Wed next week. Will pass it on to them they are always chuffed to here about people's experiences.

#MythicBooster on my iPhone using the Tappy Crap. 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Winter20vt said:


> Reminds me of my red mk2 golf I had 10 years ago when I was 17, painted all the vent surrounds, door pulls etc red as well :lol: not my cuppa tea anymore but I can appreciate all the work you are putting into it. Leather on the centre console looks great tho!


Yeah coming together after my respray the red should fit well. Thanks for you kind comments it's a labour of love but having so much fun doing it all 

#MythicBooster on my iPhone using the Tappy Crap. 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

You need to be very careful in that interior now. Every piece that you save sprayed red is a high wear item, either from hands or feet and the paint won't hold up as well as the oem finish. 
I've seen countless interiors with painted parts chip like crazy after only a couple of weeks, which looks awful. Make sure you and your passengers wear soft cotton gloves in there from now on! :-D

http://gogetfunding.com/aba-for-ben/


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

That's cool, has crossed my mind have tried to keep touchable surface painting to a minimum. Hope it's gonna stand up to every day use. All red now done bar drivers door to match passenger. No more interior red after that I promise. Like the idea of mandatory cotton gloves though, skills. Looking forward to see how your current project progresses as well Garth.

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So Tuesday was USB and induction day.










Straight forward install with the KnN system and ow my god what an epic noise. Also it spools the turbo so much quicker. Also about 2mpg improved fuel economy as well. Massive pluses all way round and can't recommend it enough.

Really pleased with the final USB install as well.



















Yesterday I finally did the cam belt, coolant, water pump, all the tensioners and the thermostat. All went well no dead engine and car back up to running at temp and also back up to 31mpg. Give or take a few. Will do a post tomorrow with more info.










Little bit more eye candy.





































#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing 
AC's Performance Parts
www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So in advance apologise for the incompleteness of this post but, for me this was a big scary rude awakening undertaking Dddddddddd the cam belt change. So what I'm gonna do is post pictures I have and comment on them. Basically for me who at the mo has very basic mechanical knowledge, by the way I started my mechanical apprenticeship last Monday yay, and start my job on Tuesday this week. To get back to it this was not easy, but saying that if you follow the steps it is very do this do that then this will happen etc etc. But it's all very nerve racking when u think that if anything goes wrong it bang bang engine time. I way lets get started.

Dropped the fluids so I could remove the expansion tank. Really easy just put hose pipe over the tap on the passenger side front bumper










Then it was time to start stripping out the expansion tank intake pipe and moving the power steering fluid reservoir out the way.




























So a few bits removing the plastic shield is a pig. Once that has happened this is what you can see.










Once you have taken off the ribbed belt and tensioner this gives a bit more of a view. After this its supporting the engine and removing the engine mount. SCARY. You are then left with quite a few boxes of bits, I suggest separate your components into boxes that go together, I'd intake, expansion, etc.



















Ok then after removing a few tensions after marking TDC on the belt top,and bottom and on the flywheel viewing hole and I was satisfied it was water pump out time.










When I took out the pump there was a BIG crack in it and then all I had to do was touch it and this happened. Oops




























So this really made me feel better about my decision to get a metal impeller water pump (ECP just over £40 a bargain if you consider if it goes wrong.) and 100% better than the original.










Ok so putting it all back together was fine really. Putting the belt back on was a bit of a sod, nick and I a screw driver and some patience got the job done in about 15mins so not to bad.

All back together then it was thermostat time, strip out plastic cover by the inlet manifold metal plate underneath and filler the be and you can see the thermostat housing. Top,nut is easy to get to sort of,muse a mini 10mm ratchet spanner got the job done but the bottom was a git. In the end a 30cm long extension on a ratchet with a 10mm fully rotating nuckle on the end made getting the bottom bolt off pretty easy in the end, no moving alternator nothing. Use a bit of grease to hold the new thermostat in place and put some coolant on the rubber washer and then now we had the magic tool re assembly was easy.

So then fluids in double check everything then scary start time. Started fine no nocking and banging yay and I do mean yay I was SHI&@ING my self and I hope anyone that has done this as a novice understands it's scary trying to enjoy working on your car and learn but at the same time really really really not wanting to kill it all at the same time.

But on the whole we are now running at 90deg and holding and all is lovely, I am so pleased cos this really did feel like the get my wings job on the car. So now onto the next bit after this its EASY RIGHT?!?!

#MythicBooster On the "Tappy Tap Tap Crappy" Thing 
AC's Performance Parts
http://www.facebook.com/acsperformanceparts


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Well done.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

longodds said:


> Well done.


First thing first thanks mate, yeah feels quite well done but at the same time as much as I learn I am so glad it is DONE.

Anyway to all, sorry it has been a bit since a post I have started my new job, life, career what ever you want to call it. I have taught rock climbing to national standard and been competing for the last 15yrs but it is now time to get a proper job....... I have started an apprenticeship in mechanics, so basically turning another hobby into a job. Done 2 days at my work placement which I organised myself working with friends of my brother in law at Audi4U in Bridgewater so close to home. Working with whole VAG group so ideal as well for my own project. GOOD TIMES. Really struggling with a 8:45 till 5:30 day at the mo. But however I have not had weekends off for 15 years so that's gonna be AMAZING.

Anyway to the project. Well this lot turned up ;-)










Forge Recirc and pressure compensation valve. Quarto stickers, Creations Motersport DV and N75 pipework, milled ali engine shiny things and my jubilee clip driver. And my RS logo for my steering wheel. All in all not bad. So to mass fittage it was.

The ali bits came up very nice and I can highly recommend the quality of these bits, all from Creations Motorsport










I shan't bore people with DV fitment cos I think it explains its self. The pipe work fits fantastically.










The engine bay is really starting to come together now, just the Compensation valve to fit then it's done for now.










Enjoy will post again tonight.

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## Futura (Dec 14, 2015)

Keep up the good work mate!! I am not a fun of painted interiors (neither the red colour  ) but i can say that yours turns out descent!! Well done! :wink:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Futura said:


> Keep up the good work mate!! I am not a fun of painted interiors (neither the red colour  ) but i can say that yours turns out descent!! Well done! :wink:


Thanks dude it's different strokes for different folks, I'm hoping I will win more over once it's finished and it ties in with the exterior. Turned my attentions to get engine bay for the mo then it's the drivers side dire then I'm just waiting on more alcantara from my supplier. Gonna do a write up on my Forge pressure regulation valve u have working alone side my DV.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Got VAG or VCDS as I now know and ran it up on the TT and was quite pleased. Had a load of codes to start with after my un plugging and re plugging but after cancelling the only code left was non communication with radio so as I've changed mine all was good. Happy with the check in general now looking into adding cruise control to the car as well. Watch this space.










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## Winter20vt (Nov 14, 2015)

A lot of time money and effort going into this by the looks of it bud! Looking forward to seeing end result


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## Futura (Dec 14, 2015)

Sure everyones taste differs.. But it seem i tend to like yours whereas i didnt like the idea.. So im also waiting for the final outcome!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So I finally managed to install my Forge pressure compensation valve and I must say I'm really impressed. The amount of grunt the turbo puts out over a longer range of revs thanks to the unrated Forge RV is really quite impressive it just seems to pull and pull for so long in all the gears it's great, like really great.










To install once I had worked out my pipes was really easy one end off the top of my RV and the other to my Inlet manifold and another turbo side off my N75 pipe, and Bobs your mothers brother NICE.

Also installed 75% of my refirbed mat BLACKKKKKK engine covers and really bought the engine bay up a good couple of notches. And once all locked down with Cookbots rather lush engine bolt set I was left with a really sorted engine bay.





































Next job was to install my custom white dials, so I did. NICE



















Gonna finish on a bit of a sad note but if you remember earlier in the thread the beautiful escort rally car, it had a bit of an argument with a ditch at Brean Rally stages.










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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Also forgot to post yesterday as well and partly as had no pic, I also installed my laser cut ali defroster rings from Creations Motorsport. Little bit of trimming of the vents to get them to sit just how I wanted, but once done was well pleased with the result. Iron Man even agreed ;-)



















All I need to do is get the insurance company to chase up the prat that is denying this was his fault.










When he was driving to fast down a country lane managed to lock up in his shit covered rusty 4x4 and mount a verge then crumple my wing and scratch my bonnet when I was stationary and then the 20yr old prat still has the gall to say I was only doing 30 and it was a blind corner.










So after this is the bull he told the insurance company I went back to get a pic from his point of view......... YEAH COURSE IT WAS A BLIND CORNER MATE!!!!!!!! Stop driving like a dick some of us have nice cars we don't want to look like they had just been stolen.

Sorry rant over but needed to vent that, should have it all done though ready for Ace Cafe. Looking forward to meeting up with some of you guys and gals real soon.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok first off my engine panels are complete YAY. Here they are in all their glory.





































Also I have finally got round to doing my N249 delete, I need to tweek the set up a bit now as I am recirculating to much air back to the turbo which is giving flutter on hard throttle changes. Ie not good for turbo. Easy fix just need to do a spring upgrade, but however the obvious now super improved pressure and flow bought on by the new Forge DV and IPVC teamed with the delete is a good thing for future engine improvements. Here is the current install less a bit of tidying I've done.

BEFORE



















AFTER



















Just ordered the new red silicone hose to replace the old rubber and we will then be well on the way. All in all pleased with the way things are going.

Will include an installed dials pic and the final tidy once it's done. We will keep the improvements rocking along.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Just some picture updates really none need much explaining.

White dials installed










Tidy up of N249 delete and Forge valves install.










De badging complete ready for something else ;-)










Don't get me wrong all badges will be removed for the re spray but that may not be for a while yet........

The car did also get a wash after this, wanted to get the de badge done first as washing not as hard in the dim light lol. I have got some flutter issues on the turbo at the mo running like this, I have since removed the spring from my DV as the IPVC allows this and the flutter only started since my N249 removal. I have wired a 330ohm 10watt resistor to stop pining codes which appears to work, my next trick is to pull a turbo pressure feed of the actuator feed going to the N75 rather than after to get a better pressure reading for the IPVC thus getting rid of the flutter I HOPE.

Any thoughts people have that could help would be much appreciated, thanks 

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

I have solved my 249 and Forge IPCV problem thanks to some of the members top tips. A massive thanks you must go to INTOTT. The top tip was that my IPCV could be sticking and needed a quick grease. I took it apart and found this.










So my main man was spot on. Upon depressing the piston it would not return so after some spirited lubeation yup LUBEATION. If no word will do make one up ;-)

So after I had a more free moving piston.










A few more jobs done yesterday, just been ticking through a couple more longevity and replace sorts of jobs. So I had the throttle body off and cleaned it through.










BEFORE




























So after a good old scrub in the wash up at work, shininess was had.

AFTER




























So that was a job well jobbed. All that was left to do was hook into VCDS and redo the throttle alignment.

Then it was to changing the bottom PCV valve. This one that lives in here.










First things first, you have the devil clips to remove. So once you have sworn lots..... and lots, and stabbed yourself, and got angry etc etc you probably still will not have it off. But once you do you will find this little chap hiding I the tube.










The problem with this valve is it has a flat bottom and can wear which will not create a good seal. This can cause a lumpy idle and also lower you MPG and also give you some crappy boost as well. Here is the clogged flat valve.










So it got replaced with a 034 Motorsport one.










Here on this valve you have a circular ball bearing valve that will always return to the right place and wear a whole lot better. Metal will do that over plastic ;-)










So all in all a couple of good little jobs done, next job.










I have started to measure for pipes and fitment for my High flow full aluminium fuel rail that will get upgraded with a 4 bar fuel reg and braided fuel lines. Injectors maybe but they will probably happen when the inlet manifold gets done. Anyway for now it's bed. I'm knackered. Thoughts and opinions are always cool. Night all

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----------



## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok hay all, thins have starte to move quite fast over the last couple of days and A LOT and I do mean A LOT has happened. I started the tease with a flash of my 035 Motorsport rail well it's in, along with some other upgrade I am quite proud of. So hold on to your hats cos here comes the next bit ;-)

So I started off this next bit at probably about 3:30 in the afternoon. I had finished stripping down the sup frame on the Bosses Corado rally car to go to powder coat, and as it was a quiet day he said I could work on my own car if I had things to do (ow yes I had things to do) it's cool when ya boss get it ;-)

First of all I needed to get the turbo charge pipe and some trim out the way.










After that it was time to start stripping down the fuel rail by removing the plastic clipped housing that secures it to the rail and the rail it's self. Did a bit of pipe blocking and found the injectors to be some what gummed up on the inlet, inside they were fine but outside they were grim to say the least.



















Blocked the holes to the manifold with some bolts and had a quick clean (which was kind of pointless but made me happy none the less) this left me with a slightly cleaner bit of bay to work in.










By this time I had also started sorting the injector wiring which amazes me that Audi's answer to secure all the wires together is simply to wrap it in electrical tape, hummmmm not sure bout that one. So I have used electrical tube and neat ended the hole thing up. This would need to be altered further but as a job for today this would be far enough.

Next it was time to unbolt the inlet manifold (yup you've guessed where this is going) not bad job at all just lots of bolts. Once this was rolled out the way I was then monsterously aware how much easier my IPCV valve replacement would have been in this orientation hehe, ow well live and learn.










Ok so, once all the plumbing and wiring was off the bottom it was time to get the git out of there.



















Also from the second pic you can see my solution to no grime in your oil. It's a decapitated finger from a rubber glove, works a treat. My plan is to change the lay out of the piping underneath some what to neaten it all up a bit, but that's a job for another day. Any way to access to it all is now greatly improved with the new bits in place.

Right once that bit was out the way it was time to start fitting the nylon heat soak, a really Nic.y made bit of kit coming with a couple of gaskets as well.



















Ok so here we go, this is the reveal on the 034 Motorsport inlet manifold, I had to strip it down so I could switch the orientation of injector tums not facing straight up and the throttle body not being on the wrong end, so a good time for a nose inside at the workman ship, IDEAL.



















Once this was re assembled I wanted to find a new mount for the exhaust temp sensor, and the old bracket for the manifold worked a treat. This was staying in as the new manifold sits Nicky on top of it giving a bit more support.










So it was time for some plumbing to sort the wiggles and wonders of the under intercooler plumbing and also a better way to return it to the new manifold. The answer is cut apart the big S shaped housing that holds pipes and gets in the way and just use a 90.










Next it was time to start sending the manifold home.



















Next it was squeezing the injectors into the rail and getting that in place. The mocked up fuel lines were amazing and really gave me a sense of what was to come, but more on that in a bit.




























You can see on the fuel lines I have gone for braided to help with rubbing and heat these would need to be further modified by the guys at Blown-It services in Bridgwater the next day after all was mocked in place.










So after that we were almost there. I did have 1 arse to deal with and that was the intercooler pipe coming up to the inlet as it would no longer reach grrrrr. As I did not have the ideal part around and everywhere was closed some butchered intercooler pipe a cut down piece of exhaust as a clamping point some jubilees and the duck tape of massive power, stickiness and men all in a pinch as belt and braces got me out of a dark place towards the end.



















So at that point we were done, disasters averted and the car starting with no leaks of fuel or air all over the place we were onto a giant win. As I was saying earlier the injection wiring will be changed. The loom will run under the inlet and the plugs will come up in between to side turned injectors to really neaten everything up (writing this on Sunday and this work being done on Friday p, that day maybe today) but the battle was over and the war, well this war at least was won and it was time to go home. 8:30pm at this point so 5 hours with a few miner snags and quite an enjoyable hassle free upgrade done. GOOD TIMES ALL ROUND. Now time for sleep



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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Nice manifold, BUT if that manifold will give you any gain at all with the stock turbo, it's screwed by that beautifull transition from Phenolic spacer (Large port i gues?) to small port head :?


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

A very clever piece of engineering giving way better air flow and gaines just added as stock. Supports future mods seeing better mpg through air flow efficency and fuel already ;-)

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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

In guessing that was borrowed from "their" advertising.

Out of interest who has suggested this course of action ?

Edit - Spelling


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

There is nothing wrong with stock manifold for stage 2 and an upgrade Inlet manifold CAN improve some beter air distrubution over the runners but look at that awfull step from that large port phenolic spacer to the small port head. What sales talk will compensate for that loss?


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Yikes. As already mentioned I'm not quite sure where you heard it was a bonus to put a large port spacer on a small port head but I think that will actually hinder your performance and airflow. I would consider returning it pronto and getting the correct one.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Here what your saying guys will get that swapped for spall port ASAP. Thanks for the input as always

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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

I do know you can get a pheromones spacer that goes large to small port.

Then you can always upgrade the head at a later date if you so wish.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

That's a good idea dude will defo have to look into that. Any advice on what one to get. I'm just cable tidying at the mo.

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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

jamman said:


> I do know you can get a pheromones spacer...


Will that make his engine more attractive to other engines?
:-D


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Yikes. As already mentioned I'm not quite sure where you heard it was a bonus to put a large port spacer on a small port head but I think that will actually hinder your performance and airflow. I would consider returning it pronto and getting the correct one.


Agreed, will just create turbulence that will hinder flow.

@OP I'm surprised at how many odd jobs you've done but you're still running the stock TIP! SACRILEGE!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Agreed, will just create turbulence that will hinder flow.

@OP I'm surprised at how many odd jobs you've done but you're still running the stock TIP! SACRILEGE![/quote]

It's because I am having a custom turbo back system made by a local company, and have not got the time to give up the car at the moment. It is a job that I can't wait to have done but am not going to rush it. Also gonna have the turbo housing and manifold heat repealing coated as well. Of course turbo re conditioned at the same time also. The list goes on and on but that's half the fun right ;-)



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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Garth said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> > I do know you can get a pheromones spacer...
> ...


Got to love autocorrect :lol:


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So got some more done, this is turning into such an epic, but I'm having so so so much fun. Changed out the spark plugs (long overdue)

Old










New










Engine bay after the 249 delete. Messy still




























So today after the spark plugs it was time to hide the cables for the fuel injectors, I was really pleased, I started off by adding protective sleeves to the main run of cable. Then removed the pins from the plugs.










After the plugs were all removed I tinned the ends and joined some new cable and heat shrunk them. Then fed them through the gaps in the manifold.










Also customed up the rear turbo pipe bracket and painted, also cut down the bracket for my IPCV and painted also. It makes the bay look so more streamlined.










The last thing was to add new clip ends and put the plugs back together. Really tried to take my time want this to be a really neat final and finished mod. In the end super tidy was achieved, might turn the injectors slightly but that's easy.

So here we have the results.




























Now I just can't wait to get the rocker cover painted, got my pollen filter, fuel pump and Haldex service kit to do this week. I have decided to order a Haldex insert after reading other posts here so waiting for that to arrive. Exciting times.



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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Sounds like you are enjoying it mate which is what it's all about.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

jamman said:


> Sounds like you are enjoying it mate which is what it's all about.


Yeah it's great its my hobby and a project that I really want to do justice. I have my own brief in my head and as long as I am true to that, that's what's important to me. Thanks again for your reply.



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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Enjoying reading this - you are getting stuck in which is nice to see!

It's looking good in the bay now just need to start blinking it up a bit ha ha!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok gonna do a bit of a list off for this one, so really just completed my last serviceable bits.

Haldex oil and filter





































Defo invest in a Haldex spanner cos I can imagine this job is next to impossible without one, defo gonna be n arse any way.

Next did the rear dif oil










You just fill this back up from the top hole until it is level with the filling hole i.e. starts to run out a bit.

Then did the fuel filter










Just take off the most off side rear under panel and its next to the sill, push in tabs on the pipe then slide off.

Then last but not least the pollen filter.

Old










New










For those that don't know this is under the near side of the scuttle panel. Just unclip the tabs at the front remove, the caddy, add a new filter and repeat in reverse NICE 

As I said just a quick one as nothing more to write home about but enjoying the future proofing this gives to the at knowing all these jobs are done.

ENJOY ALL.



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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Here's a mod that I am sure that will create loads of controversy hehe. Remember a trials bike rider friend of mine wrapping a bit of his bike with a monster can so here is my effort to test that out on the bay. BRACING FOR THE BACKLASH ON THIS ONE. I did always say I was gonna do things my way.



















I also hid up my N75 as was not keen on it right in the middle of the bay, this I feel is loads better.

Thought the car needed some wings ;-)



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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so I have been designing up my catch can system, I've been doing a lot of reading and research and I have decided a placement for my catch can and I think I have found the way the pipe work is gonna go. Had a look and cam across a great thread on Vortex and saw this.










It makes sense I like the use of PCV's as I can use the billit 034 ones I can get a new suction jet pump and also tidy it up under the inlet manifold. I can then also move all the serviceable parts i.e. PCV valves and jet pump to more serviceable places, replace the whole piping system for the brake vacuumed and PCV system.

All in all this should give me a far better running car with far less oil, also a nice bit of fabrication and a chance to practice some welding.

Watch this space for full photo instal process.



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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

I'm looking at doing the same thing only not using the PCV valve and retaining the hockey puck valve instead. Don't know if you have read the whole thread but there was some concern over having too much vacuum at idle using the PCV.

I'm still in two minds as this is the same diagram I am following, although I was going to try and simplify the pipe work under the manifold using some flexible silicone hose.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

ProjectMick said:


> I'm looking at doing the same thing only not using the PCV valve and retaining the hockey puck valve instead. Don't know if you have read the whole thread but there was some concern over having too much vacuum at idle using the PCV.
> 
> I'm still in two minds as this is the same diagram I am following, although I was going to try and simplify the pipe work under the manifold using some flexible silicone hose.


Same as me was gonna use silicone underneath. Yeah read through quite a lot now and was not to sure of the issues of to much vacuum. What were your findings in the end?



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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Well to be honest the thread went "Vortex" and ended up a bit of a giant argument so never really got any concrete conclusion.

I think I have now decided to just use a check valve where the orange one is on the diagram and the hockey puck that is already there.

The only thing that means is no PCV valve but I don't think this is the end of the world from what I can gather. It does allow you to retain the brake booster function so that's good. It also seems a little bit Awkward getting the PCV valve to mate up with the TIP on the diagram. Just feel like the stock item would fit without lots and lots of clamps!

I want to do the same as you and make everything accessible for ease of servicing.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Yeah your right "Vortex" does seem to just get quite shouty a lot of the time. Anyhow, think I'm still gonna go PCV all the way so will be good to compare notes when we are both done. I just bought some cam and crank case breather adaptors to start the conversion and I'm continuing with my bracket tomorrow so exciting stuff. Will post my how to once done.



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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

Look forward to seeing how it all goes - sounds like you are going to do a neater job than I am lol!


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Sorry have not posted for a while been super busy at work. I have been doing bits and bobs. I have fitted a TFSi coil protector.










Want to trim the back of the rocker cover to get it just right but then it will be fine. I have also been tidying the engine bay for example under the manifold which is always a jumble of stuff is now spotless, I will post some pics in my next post. Have been sorting this in prep for the catch can install as all of the PCV system is coming out for my new style install spoken about in previous posts. Here is the finished bracket and the can mocked in place ready for pipes.



















All my pipe work and fixings arrive tomorrow and I am doing the install tomorrow night so will do a write up of the whole install over the weekend. I have also ordered a 80mm straight way through TIP from Creations and a DV re location so that should arrive tomorrow so that will probably get an install next week. All in all as always lots going on and stuff arriving all the time. Also bought my spoiler yesterday as well so that's exciting stuff as well.



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----------



## ramone23456 (Jan 17, 2010)

Great thread. Fun read.
Glad to see you're enjoying it.


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## ramone23456 (Jan 17, 2010)

#MythicBooster said:


> Ok so I have been designing up my catch can system, I've been doing a lot of reading and research and I have decided a placement for my catch can and I think I have found the way the pipe work is gonna go. Had a look and cam across a great thread on Vortex and saw this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been running this setup for about 8 months without issue.


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## anthony_839 (Apr 9, 2013)

#MythicBooster said:


> Sorry have not posted for a while been super busy at work. I have been doing bits and bobs. I have fitted a TFSi coil protector.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hey mate your oil catch can does it have any internal baffles? as mine doesnt and ive seen oil in my intake pipe and even pipe to dv !!!

looks like i need one with internal baffles


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Or just do what I'm gonna do and get some square thick cut wire wool and put it in as a catch medium 

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Also have you returned yours to the sump, what have you done there?



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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So the catch can set up as I said I was going to reproduce the set up I found before as I liked that it used the benefits of the OEM pump but gets rid of all the restrictions. I started by making a custom bracket to mount the catch can on the far side of the bay the other side of the K&N.










I used hold grommets to add some damping for when the car is in motion. I mounted up the can and started designing my cable runs from there out.



















I also did a lot of tidying under the manifold so that when I started running the pipes it made it loads easier to work there, and also made future jobs 100x easier.










This is not the final version of the uber super mega tidy think of this as part 1, I will post pictures of the final tidy in part 2, as have not taken them yet. Sorry all hopefully tomorrow I will get this done, been proper busy.

Before I worked out my hose sizes and went to Blown It Services again round the corner from work to ordered up my hose and got my TIP and DV relocation from Creations as I have done with some of my other standard fit aftermarket silicone pieces.










I started stripping out all the old TIP and bits that were in the way to put the new Creations piece in. Think the best way to do this is just do the photo strip out pics.














































A quick pic of the coil tidy trimmed one side of the rocker cover to get a better fit happier now but not quite there yet.










Now dropped the TIP in place and started connecting. Went for the 80mm all way through one.










Moved onto the left intercooler outlet for the DV relocation next. Some battery tray changes were required was not super stressed about pretty so just hacked the corner off for a better pipe fit and all was well.










Started linking the two together after that, adding a cap to the DV vacuum line. If u r wounding hay this is a catch can install bit, well basically it's just all part of a more efficient vacuum system. It was time to try get the catch can in so Plummer the cam case breather to a T to pick up the bottom line and then to the can. At this point I just pushed the crank case line over the pipe just before the PCV at this time rather than move the PCV SJP etc as would not have time. Then ran the other side of the can to the TIP with a one way PCV in line, at this point I have not dropped off the second T to get the SJP in line and the brake assist. So here is the install so far.










In part 2 of this I'm going to go and take pictures of all the joins intricacies and pipe runs so you can see exactly how the install was achieved. I have gone for heavy duty hydraulic fitting as a one fit move. Once I have run up and throughly tested the system I will take the jubilee clips and T's and paint them all up black. But so far am very impressed no surge, ow yeah and have now also T'd the vacuumed line for the forge IPCV into just after the actuator. I will not be plumbing the oil drain until I do an oil change, but I may drain the tank into something clean and put it back in again. Anyway improvements all the time. Just about to order a Cookbot TOP heat shield and back it with gold wrap then install a Forge TOP with no DV outlet. Any questions for the install are as always well welcome and also any thoughts on the whole. Thanks for your interest.







































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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

What is the blue smurf doing in your old dv hose? No blanking plug with the CM DV relocation kit?


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

No blanking plug and I have a forge hard pipe with no DV hole so only temp to test up system so not to fussed.

Audi4U www.audi4u.co.uk VAG Specialists
Discounted full laser Geo for TTForum members, when mentioning the forum.

AC's Performance Parts
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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Your catch can lines look too small IMO. It looks like you step down a size at your valve cover/block T union. The PCV system isn't just a pressure vent, it's a system with a lot more flow than people realize. The small lines will just contribute to not releasing enough pressure.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Oh and you forgot a hose clamp on the pressure side of the DV :wink:

Edit: even more hose clamps are missing, so assume last pic isnt with all the work done


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Thanks guys lol. Yeah a few clamps missing, long and short of it the ones that are missing are really tight and probably don't need clamping, but they will get clamped any way and u did not have all the sizes that I wanted. So measuring today and getting them in as will be spraying them all black anyway. As for the drop down in pipe size. There is a drop but no more than is on the standard system. The smallest the pipe goes is 10mm ID of which from my tease arch will make no difference in pressure or performance to the system. I am already seeing no surge and nice smooth power.

My only question is. I bought the Forge crank case converter and on inspection after driving back from work and in fact after my initial fitting of the part it seems quite loose and have got some example of leaking any fitting tips or things I may have missed. Would any one recommend a need of sealant.










Thanks again.

Ow on a side note we are selling a 10t press at work it's on eBay for £175 but it's £135 to anyone on the forum. Pick up from Bridgwater Somerset.

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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

#MythicBooster said:


> As for the drop down in pipe size. There is a drop but no more than is on the standard system. The smallest the pipe goes is 10mm ID of which from my tease arch will make no difference in pressure or performance to the system.


Forgive me, but I have no idea what you are saying regarding tease arches. The size of the lines most definitely matter, and OEM is much larger than 10mm. I run 19mm ID hoses to my catch can so there is no reduction in size and a chance to increase pressure/restrict flow. That size hose fits the valve cover, hard pipe from the oil filter housing/block vent, the PRV/hockey puck, and is the same size as the TIP inlet. None of those are 10mm. If you're fine with it, so be it, but it's not the optimum setup.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

That's really worth while knowing can change the size up to compensate as have the 13mm will look into it tonight and report back

Edit: sorry 19mm

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So just had a look at the set up before I left work. So I can carry the cam and crank shaft breather through to the catch can at 16/19mm, and then on the outlet side at the same then step up to the PCV at 22mm and then step to 13mm to enter the TIP. Thanks for the input CollecTTor.



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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

[smiley=cheers.gif]


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so after running the set up for a bit I have found that a catch can that is just a box is crap. The number 1 reason is an empty alloy box creates loads of condensation and pushes it through the system. Mmmmm not cool but now it has been solved by creating a custom baffled and double filtered system. Like so.




























Just created two chambers either side of the inlet and outlet pipe put a cross over hole at the bottom so the oil could flow to the drain and then once the air his flowed through one side it can then flow out the other through through two filters  SWEET

also the all the pipes are now clipped up and they will soon come off to be sprayed red so they blend in. And the metal T's will be sprayed back black. Then the oil drain will be going in next week so I can stop emptying the can (loads more efficient) and also then I'm making a new bracket for the manifold cover as I would like that to go back in. So the next post should be a custom bracket for the manifold cover post and an oil drain install with a bit of spray painting in between.

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## hbs27 (Nov 4, 2015)

Some great work going in to this build dude


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

hbs27 said:


> Some great work going in to this build dude


Thanks dude much appreciated, just try my best and when problems come up I try my best to solve them. I usually start by looking here then by Googling and reading lots. Just trying to design a bracket to support my new manifold cover that Paul of the Cookbot is gonna make look amazing for me. Watch this space for the next bit.

Audi4U www.audi4u.co.uk VAG Specialists
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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so little baby steps today just been doing a bit of colour coding. Now I am happy with the catch can setup, I did a bit of pressure testing and smoke testing on the system and after finding no leaks and holding good pressure I was pleased. Had some good info from collector regarding pipe sizes to the can, but after doing a bit more of my own reading I was happy that escaping the gas from the top and bottom breathers at the standard size and shrinking to enter the can this spends up the flow and ejects a finer/faster flow back to the TIP and the SJP. I concluded that this would not hinder the system. Also some vent to atmosphere off the can, and at least this way I am pushing clean oil free air back to the system and recycling any oil/oil vapour back to the sump. Once the return is installed that is ;-)

So anyway back to point in hand. Here is my spray paint station outside the back door.



















Not the most tech spray paint setup but for this it was more than fine.

Also gave my Forge DV a clean, not that it needed it but why not.










Once bits had dried started to re assemble away from the bay. So here is one of my ORIGINAL mods that I think hay why not give that a try. I like to be a bit different, I also like to recycle.



















So an engine bay minus some sprayed bits.










Here is the K&N filter and the MAF housing now colour coded and ready to refit.










So all that was left to do was put it all back together again, and yes it had started to get quite dark by now as you can see from these final pics.





































I would like to say I am pleased with the outcome but it was quite dark so I just looked at these pics as well. My own verdict is still out on the RedBull can but will live with it for a bit and see if it grows on me, or gives me wings at least ;-)

Next update should be carbon canister delete, Forge turbo hard pipe with DV delete, Turbo outlet heat shield by CookBot and I am sure I will find other stuff, I also have a off side CV boot to change as well.

Audi4U http://www.audi4u.co.uk VAG Specialists
Discounted full laser Geo for TTForum members, when mentioning the forum.

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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

Ok so first set back in the project I started to do the turbo to exhaust gasket as it has been blowing for quite a while now and has been giving me real good tractor vibes on start up but once warm going due to expanding and then filling the space. So after getting one bolt out easy and one harder and then one..... Yeah you guessed it spun the threaded insert in the turbo. Ahhhhh fu. Bugger. So basically if I had to have the manifold out to fix it the turbo had to come out and if that had to come out well ah ha the full exhaust system is now booked in with Predator on the 30th. Custom ceramic coated manifold 3" downpipe, sports cat running dual off the back to keep the torque high and then quad exit on the back with custom 110mm rolled ends not loud just performance with a rumble. Then the turbo is going off to midland turbo for a service and a hybrid hot and cold side rebuild. Nice. Then all push and loved back together with new front mount and 550 injectors and then a short while later an uprated fuel pump. Then I will just be driving it for a while. So big things due to happen real soon. Exciting times. So Monday the turbo will be freed from its bolt and the manifold removed. So will get some pics of that game to show you all. Will also get some pics from the manifold and exhaust build by the guys at Predator all in all I'm a very excited boy. Hope you guys are as well. As always watch this space #mythicbooster

View my build thread an epic 225 RS build.


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Could have just drilled out the head of the last bolt, but any excuse to upgrade will do. 8)


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

CollecTTor said:


> Could have just drilled out the head of the last bolt, but any excuse to upgrade will do. 8)


YES and that's what I will do and YES lol


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So this morning i got hold of Zircotec to get some info on coatings. So that's getting my; Manifold, Turbo Hotside, Downpipe and Charge Pipe Ceramic coated. Also still gonna get a turbo blanket and this should get rid of a load of radiant heat. These parts will all be in gold as the Iron Man colour scheme seems to be on.










View my build thread an epic 225 RS build.


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## #MythicBooster (Feb 10, 2015)

So the annoying bolt has been freed it took welding di grinding and other means but it's out. So this was the problem.



















Basically the insert in the turbo screwed out with the bolt jamming it in place grrrrr. Not enough room to cut out and the bolt had hardened so much that drilling out was a no go. So after that the first job was to weld a good bolt on top of the knackered one to make it easier to move.



















So after that there was one more attempt holding on the nutsurt with the mini mole grips and twisting out via the new welded nut. But thus still no co operation. So then it was cover up the turbo hole and in with the right angles di grinder to grind away the sides of the nutsurt so the bolt could be removed. An hour later and lots of patience we had.



















What a result. Got round to re positioning turbo and setting up reading to cut in the new nutsurt. But in the hole progress has been made and hopfully the new gasket will be in soon.


View my build thread an epic 225 RS build.


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## ross2209 (Apr 21, 2016)

Garth said:


> Well done for attempting it. I did mine in leather a couple of years ago:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very interested in this.. I'm afraid I'm not brave enough to try this.. Have you a price for this if I sent you the cover or could you source one at extra cost?

Thanks


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

nice to see, and to know its possible, im considering alcantara.

looks great btw ! you should flush fit the radio fascia


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## Leesey (Dec 6, 2015)

It looks brilliant


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## Van Well (Apr 8, 2017)

Not sure if you still visit the forum MythicBooster, but I just spent an hour reading this thread from start to finish 

All I can say is you get 100% for effort & dedication! 8)


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## Cee Apple (Jun 15, 2017)

Van Well said:


> Not sure if you still visit the forum MythicBooster, but I just spent an hour reading this thread from start to finish
> 
> All I can say is you get 100% for effort & dedication! 8)


Me to and its great with great knowledge dont think he ever got it grey though ... Shame


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## Exuptoy (Sep 12, 2017)

I enjoyed the read too. 8)


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## KSixTT6 (Nov 13, 2017)

Stumbled across your build James and what can I say, didn't like the interior bits you started doing and then ended up loving when it all came together might not be 100% my cup of tea, but a lot of work and passion clearly went into it. So much respect. Excellent read and hope the car is still going as no updates for some time now.


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## Ashs_Gte (Jul 14, 2015)

The inlet manifold tho 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kanapa_dh (Dec 23, 2016)

Really nice topic and car  well done mate! the red details look awesome inside (for me), idea with alcantara is awesome too.


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## V77ARR (Jul 31, 2019)

Looks great


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## Den77 (Feb 16, 2020)

Great read shame it is like watching a film with no ending as he seems to have given up. Really enjoyed it though thanks.


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