# 3.2 V6 Timing Chain VCDS check definitive guide



## d5aul (Nov 16, 2013)

I've recently purchased a 3.2 V6, 75k miles on the clock, drives absolutely fine but the the curiosity has got the better of me.

I'd like to connect the car to VCDS lite (Registered) & check the blocks, 208 & 209

Having searched this site including the knowledge base area, I'm unable to find a definitive guide on doing this.

I'm sure its fairly self explanatory but I'd like to see a guide to confirm the correct way of doing this & also the expected readings etc.

Can anyone point me in the direction of such guide?


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## McPikie (Jan 27, 2013)

Any reading on blocks 208 & 209 should be between -8 / +8. That's the acceptable wear range. Anything over that and the tensioners/chains are worn and require replacing.

Also, the difference between the numbers should be no more than 3 if I remember correctly. So you could have the following:

208 = -6
209 = -7

But this is till acceptable.

An oil flush before a service with an OEM filter and decent 5w30 may see values change if the sludgy oil has gummed up some tensioners/VVT solenoids.

• The timing chains values in blocks 90,91, 208 & 209 must always be read when the engine is warm. Measurements must always be taken at a minimum of about 60°C operating/oil temperature or higher, otherwise the cam adjustment is not yet fully active.

• Measurements are always taken at idle

• Block 90 (exhaust) set-point is 0°, no matter the values in blocks 208 & 209, at a duty ratio of about 15.3%. The actual value should not be more than 0.5° out (Valid for both OEM & aftermarket cams). If the values are way off from 0° the timing chain may be mistimed or skipped. Around 11.25° deviation corresponds to a skip of 1 tooth.
• Block 91 (intake) set-point is 22° between idle to about 1200RPM, no matter what the values read in blocks 208 & 209, at a duty ratio of about 15.3%.
The actual value should not be more than 0.5° out (valid for both OEM & aftermarket cams). If the value is not close to 22° the timing chain may be mistimed or skipped. Around 11.25 ° deviation corresponds to a skip of 1 tooth.

As is known faulty cam phase sensors cause spurious readings. However a surprising point to note is that high values are not always indicative of worn guides or a stretched chain! There have been instances in Germany whereby poor service intervals (Longlife) has gummed up the cam variators/VVT assemblies/solenoids resulting in high values that's clearly appeared to be worn chains but after several oil flushes and filter changes returned to almost perfect 'out the factory' values. There appears to be some correlation between the intercam timing spread and the intermediate shaft values that points to this; if I can find the original page I'll save it off and translate it. As best as I can tell a good way to help in diagnosing if the chains truly require replacing is to also log the requested vs actual cam timing in VCDS. One of the symptoms of sluggish cam timing is mild bucking/hesitancy similar to a faulty MAF. If the actual values values are slow to match the requested values then his points to a gummed up VVT system or the inlet gauze possibly being blocked.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

has anyone considered changing the Cams to compensate any dodgy figures? might only cost £300 instead of £2500

or if the readings are out, you are driving a ticking timebomb


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## d5aul (Nov 16, 2013)

Thanks for your comprehensive write up McPikie. I did a check tonight, cold engine but I'll check again once warm! A bit of a coincidence as I got the -6 & -7 the same as in your write up!

Using the VCDS-LITE was actually fairly straight forward, plugged it all in, started VCDS-LITE, selected 01-engine, then measure blocks & just typed in 208 & 209 and up popped the readings.


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## McPikie (Jan 27, 2013)

StuartDB said:


> has anyone considered changing the Cams to compensate any dodgy figures? might only cost £300 instead of £2500
> 
> or if the readings are out, you are driving a ticking timebomb


Why would you change the cams? The majority of the cost of doing the chains is the labour involved in taking gearbox off etc to get to them. Plus you'd have to take the top chain off anyway if you wanted to change the cams.


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