# Replacing Top Mount - Looking for Easiest way



## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

The front nearside top mount bearing has disintegrated to the extent that I found ball bearings on the drive so it must be in a really bad way.

Question is, do I need to remove the strut to replace? My car is post '02 sports suspension and I am wondering whether, with the aid of some spring compressors, it's possible to get in there with the car raised and the suspension dropped.


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## Super Josh (May 29, 2009)

Steve I think it's one of those jobs that is so much easier when you've got the strut away from the car. It makes it much easier (and safer!!!) to evenly wind up the spring compressors and you also have a decent bit of room to get the top nut undone/redone.

It's not even that hard to remove the strut really.

SJ


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Super Josh said:


> Steve I think it's one of those jobs that is so much easier when you've got the strut away from the car. It makes it much easier (and safer!!!) to evenly wind up the spring compressors and you also have a decent bit of room to get the top nut undone/redone.
> 
> It's not even that hard to remove the strut really.
> 
> SJ


Thanks Josh, do you need to get one of those twist bits (looks like a large flat bladed screwdriver bit) to spread the strut seat, or can you do it with say a tapered chisel?


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

steveupton said:


> The front nearside top mount bearing has disintegrated to the extent that I found ball bearings on the drive so it must be in a really bad way.
> 
> Question is, do I need to remove the strut to replace? My car is post '02 sports suspension and I am wondering whether, with the aid of some spring compressors, it's possible to get in there with the car raised and the suspension dropped.


I'd be really surprised if the ball bearings you found are from the top mount as they are pretty well contained within the rubber mount. That said, when I replaced mine this week they were completely seized so I would certainly recommend replacing them.

Easiest way to replace them is to remove the strut. You could quite easily do it by removing the top bolts while you have spring compressors on and keep the strut connected at the bottom. You would have to jack up the strut, put compressors on, remove both top nuts then lower the strut. Now you'd have access to the top mount and bearings from in the wheel arch. Replace these and then raise the stut again with a jack until it is in the right position and then replace the top nuts.


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Garth said:


> steveupton said:
> 
> 
> > The front nearside top mount bearing has disintegrated to the extent that I found ball bearings on the drive so it must be in a really bad way.
> ...


Ball bearings definitely came from top of strut somewhere, they dropped when I jacked the car up to do the sump on Monday. Given what you and Josh have written, I think, on reflection, it's probably better to remove the strut. Thanks very much for the advice.


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## Super Josh (May 29, 2009)

steveupton said:


> Thanks Josh, do you need to get one of those twist bits (looks like a large flat bladed screwdriver bit) to
> spread the strut seat, or can you do it with say a tapered chisel?


Steve I don't understand the question, can you explain a bit more?

SJ


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Super Josh said:


> steveupton said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks Josh, do you need to get one of those twist bits (looks like a large flat bladed screwdriver bit) to
> ...


To release the base of the strut from the seat, according to Elsawin, you have to spread the seat by inserting a special tool that looks like a large flat bladed screwdriver bit into the slot at the back of the seat and twist it.


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

steveupton said:


> To release the base of the strut from the seat, according to Elsawin, you have to spread the seat by inserting a special tool that looks like a large flat bladed screwdriver bit into the slot at the back of the seat and twist it.


I know what you mean but i just used a small bottle jack like in this guide viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87761
Just take the strut out as it will be so much easier to work on. It's not that hard and really doesn't take long.
Just read through the above guide first and make sure you have all of the correct tools before you start.


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## johndtt (Apr 4, 2012)

I'm about to do the same and found the below which I am sure will be of use!

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16939330

I also jacked my car up the other day and it looked like it may be possible without spring compressors but it will down to the car so check first before a spring goes flying across the room!!

In fairness the TT looks easier to do than other McP struts I've come across. Can't fault the price of the replacement bushes either!!

John


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Yes it is helpful to be able to spread the socket, and a good soaking with WD40 for an hour or so also helps.

I did it with a funny old tool that looked a bit like an L-shaped claw hammer.


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## kazinak (Mar 23, 2010)

Easiest way will be take it to the garage 

Send from my Android using Tapatalk 2


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## staners1 (Jan 7, 2012)

My Nate did mine for £25 he compressed spring and went that way around it


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Have managed to replace both top mounts and bearings without removing the strut, my bottle jack had too big of a base to use it to spread the strut and wheel bearing housing apart.

Fortunately I have a very good pair of spring compressors designed to work in confined spaces and having sports suspension springs that are quite short gave me plenty of room to work in once I'd removed the drop link and lowered the suspension.

As I suspected, the nearside top mount bearing was in 2 pieces and there were 3 loose ball bearings that fell down when disassembling, the top mount itself was also torn, all probably due to hitting a fair few potholes in the last year. The funny thing is, the only symptom I noticed was when reversing off the drive down a lowered kerb, there was a slight knock. The new top mounts are also a lot deeper than the old so they were due for replacement anyway. I reckon I could do both sides in 1 1/2 hours now, ashamed to say how long it took me to do the first one though!

Many thanks to everyone who contributed.


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Nonsense mate, first one 3 hours, second one 45 minutes.


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## johndtt (Apr 4, 2012)

Just thought I'd update this from my experience.

If you compress the springs enough you can then undo the top nut and drop them enough to swap out the rubber without removing the strut.

Flat sided 21mm spark plug socket and allen key work wonders.

John


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