# Dashpod Repairs Update-----Fixed for £0!!!!



## jackott (Nov 28, 2005)

Hi all,

As i explained in my previous post, i have a 2000 180 TT that has started the dashpod 'dancing needles' failure stage. I am pleased to report that i have sucessfully repaired the dashpod and it cost nothing and about 30 mins from removal to refitting!
Thanks to Chip_tt for the wiring info i have made a test loom and narrowed down the failure area to a single componant.
Full repair instructions to follow!! Could seriously save yourself the Â£700!
Please note that as Chip_tt states there is a number of differant dashpod failures, however any flickering of meters / flashing of dash lights etc will be attributed to this problem.
I will be writing a new thread soon

HAPPY CHRISTMAS


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## Rogue (Jun 15, 2003)

That's excellent news, although a bit late for my own ex dashpod  
I look forward to reading the "How To".

Rogue


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

superb news, look forward to the guide. Is it a cheap and readily available part?


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## khewett (Jan 16, 2005)

What a hero  , prepare to enter the TT forum hall of fame at number 1

 Great work..............


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## was (Mar 24, 2003)

excellent development!



jackott said:


> I will be writing a new thread soon


and starting a Dashpod repair company


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Good man  
You managed to find the fault and repair it in a day so why do Audi have to fit a new dp and charge you Â£800 for the job :evil:


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

YELLOW_TT said:


> Good man
> You managed to find the fault and repair it in a day so why do Audi have to fit a new dp and charge you Â£800 for the job :evil:


there are many pods and symptoms, this may only be one fix for one type or it may be a generic fix for many problems but at least it'll save some people some money.

:?


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## JayTT (Nov 30, 2005)

Top man , that is excellent news ... although 2 days after mine was replaced ..... mmmmm bugger !!

Merry xmas to you


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## dj c225 (Nov 3, 2004)

Wak said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> > Good man
> ...


Wak is right, this isn't the only problem with the pod, some are more serious then dancing needles.

Well done for sorting the problem, should help some people out!


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

dj c225 said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> > YELLOW_TT said:
> ...


But if he had taken his car to Audi they would have just changed the pod and charged him Â£800 when clearly it could have been fixed 
how many of the other dp faults could Audi may be fix if they put little effort in to it :?:


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

Nice one Jackott

Bet that was rewarding.

Looking forward to your next post.


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## sssgucci (Nov 20, 2004)

YELLOW_TT said:


> dj c225 said:
> 
> 
> > Wak said:
> ...


Is's all about the $$$


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## JayGemson (Jun 8, 2004)

[smiley=mexicanwave.gif] [smiley=dude.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Please share your solution, there'll be a *lot* of interested readers!


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## mikett225 (Sep 1, 2005)

Or maybe (just being cynical) the dashpod only costs Â£30 to make and the labour costs being so high it's cheaper for them to replace the whole thing, rather than have a technican spend 1 or 2 hours at Â£50-Â£60 an hour repairing it. It's the labour and Audi's mark up that make things so expensive. I'm sure this isn't isolated to Audi either.


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## kam (Sep 25, 2003)

Fantastic new!  , don't tell Audi


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## jwball (Jan 18, 2004)

Good news!


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

YELLOW_TT said:


> dj c225 said:
> 
> 
> > Wak said:
> ...


Your confusing part fitters with electronic enthusiasts.

The pod is a supplied part and thats all it is to Audi if it breaks replace it! they will never fix them or refurb them themselves, just send them to valeo or whoever makes them.

It takes people like JW or Chip_iTT who have a little more in depth knowledge to dabble at taking a part apart and trying to fix its internals.


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Wak said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> > dj c225 said:
> ...


wak these dp have been a problem for 6 years and the new ones are no better than the the first ones so is it not about time that Audi got on to there supplier and said these dp are not up to our standards get the problems (all of them) fixed or we will no longer be putting any new bussiness your way


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

YELLOW_TT said:


> wak these dp have been a problem for 6 years and the new ones are no better than the the first ones so is it not about time that Audi got on to there supplier and said these dp are not up to our standards get the problems (all of them) fixed or we will no longer be putting any new bussiness your way


OK ... I agree... see my next Thread!


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## dj c225 (Nov 3, 2004)

YELLOW_TT said:


> dj c225 said:
> 
> 
> > Wak said:
> ...


I agree, what they really should have done or need to do is re-design the dashpod or the way it works.

As I said dancing needles is always the problem. What about when the pod goes wrong and drains the cars battery?

Still a good effort will help loads of us out.

But I still cannot understand why Audi hasn't admitted fault and looked into it.

Every Audi dealer I have spoken to says they know about the dashpod problem, why have they not complained to Audi.

How far have people taken this, has it been taken to watchdog? if anyone is interested in helping getting it sorted/out to press, contact me.

I think its totally unfair the amount of people on here with dashpod problems, each time shelling out 1k is madness!


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

That's Italian electronics for you :roll:


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Any one reading this also see Waks Dash pod Watchdog thread


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## JayGemson (Jun 8, 2004)

Dashpod Watchdog thread: http://www.********.co.uk/ttforumbbs/vi ... hp?t=54584

Register yourselves there.


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## AndyW (Dec 8, 2004)

In my experience it is not unusual for suppliers to fit components that are only just within the spec for the job.
Some years ago working for a well known telecoms company an external supplier was ripping us off for transportation of a very heavy tape unit when it was returned to them for repairs "under guarantee" The transportation and time to remove and refit etc. was causing me grief and the customer, who's system was constantly breaking down, was also unhappy. When the guarantee expired I decided to use some basic knowledge to determine the component that was failing. Turned out to be a Â£5.00 power transistor in the power supply that was under specified. I changed it for something more suitable and bingo no more failures for the next few years until I left the job.
I believe the manufacturer was making a fortune from the supplier on warranty claims because when I spoke to other engineers around the country this was happening all over.

SOUND FAMILIAR ?

Regards

Andy


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

damn, i was really enjoying every other post been about a dashpod fail - guess we'll have to find something else now then. :lol:


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## gt russell (Nov 27, 2005)

thats fab news mate its people like you that make a diference :wink:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

What was it - regulator going unstable?

Can't wait to see your post - well done!


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## croskemj (Dec 21, 2005)

It all comes down to the Â£Â£ with the dealers and I suppose from their perspective why not. Nice to see there is an economic solution to this one particular niggle of the dashpods if nothing else.


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## LordAveIt (Jan 3, 2006)

Dear all, I am a brand new member as of today but have already read a number of usefull posts on this site. I bought my TT last september its an 02 225 and had 24k on the clock. Last december I had the dreaded coil issue when first and third failed. My fuel gauge has always been a bit iffy and reads half way when I have 30 miles left! since christmas the Temp gauge reads 118oC when it is actually 90. The previous posts re interrogating the climate helped me work this out. I have been on to Audi Customer Service who are as much use as a hand brake on a canoe! And dont acknowledge that it is a wide fault. My question after all this rambling is that I have found a company that remanufacture your original dash for Â£250 + Â£8.50, they are based in Kent web link attached. Has anyone used them and are they any good?? :?: In addition has anyone put on a previous post about dashboard removal?? Audi confirm it is only an hour long job.

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... rd_failing


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## khewett (Jan 16, 2005)

Intresting................

Thats new news I think?

They could be in for lots of work if they can fix the things!


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## Sim (Mar 7, 2003)

LordAveIt said:


> Dear all, I am a brand new member as of today but have already read a number of usefull posts on this site. I bought my TT last september its an 02 225 and had 24k on the clock. Last december I had the dreaded coil issue when first and third failed. My fuel gauge has always been a bit iffy and reads half way when I have 30 miles left! since christmas the Temp gauge reads 118oC when it is actually 90. The previous posts re interrogating the climate helped me work this out. I have been on to Audi Customer Service who are as much use as a hand brake on a canoe! And dont acknowledge that it is a wide fault. My question after all this rambling is that I have found a company that remanufacture your original dash for Â£250 + Â£8.50, they are based in Kent web link attached. Has anyone used them and are they any good?? :?: In addition has anyone put on a previous post about dashboard removal?? Audi confirm it is only an hour long job.
> 
> http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... rd_failing


Interesting find.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

jackott said:


> Hi all,
> 
> As i explained in my previous post, i have a 2000 180 TT that has started the dashpod 'dancing needles' failure stage. I am pleased to report that i have sucessfully repaired the dashpod and it cost nothing and about 30 mins from removal to refitting!
> Thanks to Chip_tt for the wiring info i have made a test loom and narrowed down the failure area to a single componant.
> ...


Hi, 
Do you (or anyone on the forum) have the repair instructions as I could really do with them ?

Thank you.

Regards.


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## facefirst (Dec 15, 2008)

Audi UK have rolled over and will repair any failed dash pod free of charge now, so just take it to the dealer and get them to fix it. If they give you agg, then get on the phone to Audi CS and get them to contact your dealer to set them straight.

Happy New Year!


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Thank you for your reply & advice but the dash problem isn't on an Audi......however it is the exact same chip that is causing the problem so the fix that jackott done may work for me.

Cheers.


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## facefirst (Dec 15, 2008)

Ah, I see.

Good luck with the fix and let us know how you get on.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I don't think you'll have too much luck. Jockott didn't actually manage to fix his dashpod although he did get very close as you can see in this post: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55361

The problem is with the processor and caused by non-optimised programming techniques resulting in weak charge storage in the memory cells. A fix would involve reading out and reprogramming the processor with identical code but with optiomised write cycles - effectively refreshing the memory with a fresh and stronger copy. The problem is that the chip is security encoded with an 8 byte key to prevent programme access - and we don't know what that is. Probably a good thing otherwise your TT security would be compromised!

Jackott's efforts were overtaken by Audi's free replacement policy.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
Yeah I have seen the thread you link to, but as this topic is from an earlier date I just thought that there maybe something to check before assuming the processor is at fault....if you see what I mean.

To be honest I think I'm straw grasping....From what I have read on this forum & read on the web it does appear that the faulty processor has been fitted to a lot of vehicle's.....I'll either have to wait for the weather to get a bit warmer so the dash starts to behave itself or pay to have it repaired. 

Cheers.


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

If any help the below company is excellent

http://clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Tel boy said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I have seen the thread you link to, but as this topic is from an earlier date I just thought that there maybe something to check before assuming the processor is at fault....if you see what I mean.
> 
> To be honest I think I'm straw grasping....From what I have read on this forum & read on the web it does appear that the faulty processor has been fitted to a lot of vehicle's.....I'll either have to wait for the weather to get a bit warmer so the dash starts to behave itself or pay to have it repaired.
> ...


Temporarily you could add a heating element to the processor to warm it up a few degrees. A small aluminium clad resistor of the correct wattage could be glued to the processor and connected to a 12V ignition feed or a switch. You could wait a few seconds before starting to warm it up perhaps? It will help but the fault will get worse over time. Also bear in mind that heating it up too mutch can cause similar problems. 25 deg C. is probably optimum but you may find that there is a big working temperature range.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
T3RBO, thanks for the link&#8230;.. I spotted cluster repairs a while back while searching for an answer to this problem, but nice to have a recommendation. 

John-H
I also though about some way to warm the processor to stop the fault, however the processor on my circuit board is on the front of the board (facing you when driving) so clearance will cause issues!
From the photos I have seen on the forum I believe the processor is on the back of the Audi circuit board.

HoweverI have found a place that can supply new processors pre programmed with the correct software / mileage for your model of vehicle.
http://www.codecard.lt/electronic/car-e ... d_127.html

So looks to be a promising option for a DIY project if I decide to tackle it myself....just a case of brushing up my DeSoldering / Soldering skills.

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Tel boy.

That's useful to know. You'd have to factor in the dealer cost to programme in immobiliser key codes but it would still be a cheap option.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi John,
I believe there is no immobiliser code held in the chip on this vehicle as people have fitted a 2nd hand cluster with no problems, so it would just be a case of fitting the new chip & that would be it.

I though about going down the 2nd hand cluster route but then I would have to have the mileage corrected which I believe is quite expensive on the Laguna 2, also there is the fact that the 2nd hand cluster could have the same processor problem.

Cheers.


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

KenTT said:


> That's Italian electronics for you :roll:


true... and they are also vain and have been known to pinch a girl's bottom 

Giuseppe


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Tel boy said:


> Hi John,
> I believe there is no immobiliser code held in the chip on this vehicle as people have fitted a 2nd hand cluster with no problems, so it would just be a case of fitting the new chip & that would be it.
> 
> I though about going down the 2nd hand cluster route but then I would have to have the mileage corrected which I believe is quite expensive on the Laguna 2, also there is the fact that the 2nd hand cluster could have the same processor problem.
> ...


Even better for you! Have you de-soldered this type of package before?

Regarding the heater - you can get thin film heating elements or even make up a little blanket of surface mount resistors soldered in a patchwork quilt style and glued on. That would be thin enough possibly?



TTCool said:


> KenTT said:
> 
> 
> > That's Italian electronics for you :roll:
> ...


They communicate with their hands apparently :wink:


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

John-H said:


> Even better for you! Have you de-soldered this type of package before?


To be honest I'm quite ignorant when it comes to the subject of electronics....most of it is way over my head, I'm more mechanically minded, however I am very practical & will give anything a go.

A few years ago I managed to successfully remove & replaced a TSOP 32 package, I removed it with a hot air adaptor on a Butane powered soldering iron, a bit crude I know, but it went well & the chip lifted quite easily with no damage to the board. 
Once the chip had been read I replaced it with a standard soldering iron, the device still worked after my efforts so I must have got it right :lol:

However a TSOP 32 is obviously a lot easier to remove than a QFP 64 & the hot air method may not be the best option in this situation considering there are quite a few other surface mount devices (resistors) close to the processor.
I have a few old bit of computer circuity with QFP's on, so I'll be having a go on them before I decide if I have the skill to tackle it using this method.

Alternatively, considering if I was removing the processor it would be being replaced with a new pre programmed one I could just cut through the legs of the old one to free it, then once the body of it was out of the way the remaining fragments of the legs could easily be removed with a decent iron....this would keep the heat to a minimum & avoid possible board / other component damage.

*Picture of the processor on the circuit board *









*The dashpod fault as it happens*
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-iUKuIEco ... annel_page



John-H said:


> Regarding the heater - you can get thin film heating elements or even make up a little blanket of surface mount resistors soldered in a patchwork quilt style and glued on. That would be thin enough possibly?


Hmm...I didn't pay much attention to how much clearance there was in front of the processor, I had the board out looking for dry joints when the fault first showed up. This could be a good make shift option, considering my instruments work perfectly normally when they get up to temperature 

Any chance you could point me in the direction of one of these film heating elements, or the resistors I would require?

Cheers.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
John, I have had a good search on the net & I can find companies that manufacture the thin film heating elements but they are all too big for to fit on the processor, the wrong operating voltage & also I would have to buy a minimum of a 1000 :roll: 
Do you know of anywhere that I could get a 12volt version that would fit the processor ? (approx 10mm x 10mm)

Alternatively what type & value resistors would I need to make a "patchwork resistor heater" , how would these be connected & stuck to the chip?

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Sorry, I meant to get back to you but got sidetracked. You can make a 2 x 3 resistor matrix that will measure 12.8mm x 9.6mm which will dissipate 4.59W so taking 381mA @ 12V. I'm not sure what temperature it will get to as that depends on the thermal conductivity and airflow etc. but it's cheap to try.

The matrix will be 6 resistors, 3 parallel connected series pairs:

0V ----- 47 Ohms + 47 Ohms ----- +12V
0V ----- 47 Ohms + 47 Ohms ----- +12V
0V ----- 47 Ohms + 47 Ohms ----- +12V

You can get the resistors, which are rated at 1W from Farnell at 16p each: 
http://uk.farnell.com/phycomp-yageo/232 ... dp/1283148

The current flow through each pair will be (I = V/R) 12V/94R = 127mA 
The power dissipated in each pair will be (W = V x I) = 127mA x 12V = 1.53W
Total power will be 1.53W x 3 = 4.59W

They look like this (6.4mm x 3.2mm x 1.1mm):










You can simply place them flat and end to end and solder them together in pairs, then place the pairs side by side and solder bared wire ends across the ends of the pairs, so joining them all together. It doesn't matter if the resistor pair centres touch as they will all be at 6V so no voltage difference, so no current will flow between pairs - you could even solder the centres all together if you wanted to.

If you wanted it hotter you could use these 22 Ohm 2W resistors in the same size package: 
http://uk.farnell.com/phycomp-yageo/rc2 ... dp/1376981

If you run through the same calculation you will get 1.6W for each resistor, so a total of 9.8W but this may get too hot. They cost more too.

A much cooler option would be these 100 Ohm resistors:
http://uk.farnell.com/phycomp-yageo/232 ... dp/9235922

Calculating again gives a total of 2.16W which would probably only be a few degrees.

Glue the resistors onto the top of the processor and simply connect the wires to the switched ignition and 0V which will be present somewhere on the dashpod. Remember it's not a permanent fix even if it works at all. I hope it buys you some time  .


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi John,
Thank you for your excellent informative reply...that's great.

Yeah I think I'll give it a go with the resistors.....will have to get hold of some first though.

What will I glue them to the chip with?

Thanks.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

There are some thermally conductive adhesive cements which you can get from Farnell but you'll probably find that any sort of epoxy would do. There's a big thermal resistance through the processor's epoxy package, as it's not designed to pass a lot of heat, so there's no point in going over the top with the adhesive. If you get some 5 minute epoxy, you know, the type you get in a double syringe, then that should do and you'll be able to remove it if you need to change the resistors.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks for that John....5 minute epoxy it is then 

I can't buy the resistors from Farnell unless I spend £20....that's the minimum for credit card transactions with them :roll:

However there's a branch of RS Components near me....I've looked & they have a similar resistor except its tolerance is 5%....so I will have to go with them.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=2240222

I will probably rig the resistors up to a switch & see how long they have to be on until the chip starts working.....obviously this will depend on the ambient temperature but I'll get an average.

If the resistors do the job....then I could possibly sort out some sort of timer circuit that could be operated via the door unlocking or something....I'm sure you get the picture :wink:

I wish I didn't like to tinker as much, as the dashpod would have been sent away & be back fixed by now, but that's not me.... :lol: :lol:

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Oops, I'd forgotten about the minimum order thing! 5% ones from RS will be fine. Let me know how it goes.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Will do :wink:

Thank you.

Regards


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi John,
sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread but our phone line has been dodgy so I've had no Internet connection....it's took a week to get it sorted :roll: ... just back on today.

Anyway I got some resistors from RS components...I ended up with 33 ohm ones as they had them in stock...I made the resistor pad with 6 of them & stuck it to the chip with some special heat-sink tape that I got hold of which can withstand very high temperatures.

I'm pleased to tell you that the heater is working a treat 

I've just wired it up via a switch for the time being....A quick blast of the heater (approx 5 seconds) gets the chip working straight off, so no more sitting for 10 minutes waiting for the gauges to come on.

As I've mentioned, electronics isn't my strong point (read as I know nothing :lol: ) so I'm doing a bit of reading up on the subject as I would like to have the heater work from a timer circuit that would be switched on when the interior lights come on when the car is unlocked, (555 timer maybe) 
I would also like to add some form of temperature control to the heater pad, so that it would cut out automatically when it reached a set temperature (15°c - 20°c) even though the timer circuit will still be active, this will give a double fail safe, temperature control & timed control.

Regards.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well done!  At least it's got you going. :wink:

I'm sure it will be an interesting exercise making a timer or even a thermistor regulated heater - just bear in mind that the processor memory will get worse over time and the working temperature range of the chip will eventually diminish to the point where it stops working completely. It's difficult to predict how long this will take.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks for that John....I'll see how long I can get out of it before it packs up  

Just out of interest, if I could get a dump from the chip when it was working & programme it back to the chip would this sort it out or would the code have to be re written so that it was "stronger" in the areas that now let it down when cold?

Or is it the chip internals that are breaking down ?

Just interested that's all.

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

If you can read out the code when it's working and then re-write it back to the chip using the correct signal timings etc. then it should "freshen up" the cell charges, making the stored code strong again. It seems to be a problem with original manufacutre, possibly due to too rushed programming cycles, that weak memory cell charge storage resulted. Freescale semiconductor have said that the original device, if reprogrammed, should be as good as new.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

I had thought about getting hold of a programmer that would be capable of reading the chip & maybe giving it a go as a project....I did programmed a few chips a few years ago but nothing as complicated as this one.

The only question is whether the chip will be code protected or not. 
From what I have read I believe the Audi chip holds the immobiliser code, where as the chip in my car doesn't so maybe there's a chance that my chip isn't protected & would be able to be dumped.

Cheers.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
I thought I would come back to this thread & let you all know how I have came on with my dashpod problem.

The processor heated I made has worked fine for 7 months (thanks for the idea John :wink: )

I connected the heater to a timer relay....I used a Ford heated rear window timer relay for this. The relay originally gave an on period of approx 10 minutes so I had to alter the timing of it by swapping a capacitor & a resistor inside it....I got it to give an on period of 5 second.

I decided to wire the relay so that it came on when the ignition was in the auxiliary position, this meant the heater would heat the processor before the main ignition was switched on so that the processor would work immediately on power up. I wired an LED into the circuit so I knew when the relay had turned on / off. Once the relay had switched off after 5 seconds I could then switch to full ignition with the dashpod working straight off.
I spliced into the cigarette lighter circuit for the relay's power. This however posed a problem, as the cigarette lighter circuit is briefly turned off (0v) while the engine is cranking. I checked a few other auxiliary circuits & they all seemed to be briefly turned off while the engine is cranking, this had the effect of starting the relay on another 5 second timed period which I didn't want as I thought this could possibly overheat the processor. I needed to stop the relay triggering again when the engine was being cranked. To get round this I cobbled a few capacitors together (4200µf total) & a diode & fed the relay through these....this stopped the relay seeing the brief 0v & stopped the 2nd cycle problem. 

All's well then....well not quite...
As John pointed out the heater would only be a temporary measure & that over time the processor would get worse ....it did....

The heater was only meant to be for the winter months as the processor worked fine if the ambient temperature was above approx 10°C.... so once the weather warmed up a bit I disconnected the heater only to find the processor wouldn't work properly unless the temperature was 18°C or more  ....so yes it was getting worse....fearing that one day it may not work at all, the time had come to replace the processor.

I contacted Codecard (http://www.codecard.lt/ ) who supplied me with a processor pre programmed with the correct software, mileage, etc, for my vehicle.....I must mention that the service from Codecard was excellent. 8)

Once I received the new processor it was just a case of replacing the processor in my dashpod with the new one....could it really be that simple....I dismantled the dashpod & removed the old processor & replaced it with the new one.... all went well with the removal & replacement & I'm very happy to say that the processor works a treat 8)

So all in all a sort of half DIY result  
....I know I could have had the dashpod fixed at a few places with no hassel, but I like the sense of achievement when you repair something like this yourself !

Thanks to John's processor heater idea I managed to get another 7 months out of my failing processor, maybe I could have got longer, who knows, but I figured I best get it sorted just in case this years winter finished it off completely.

Just thought this may interest one or two of you.

Cheers.

*
The processor heater.*









*The Ford heater rear window relay with the capacitors fitted*.









*Dashpod PCB with processor removed.*









* New processor fitted. *









*Old processor showing size.*


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## matty1985 (Nov 20, 2008)

i dont suppouse you have a fix for the dis display??


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Matty,

Take a look here.... 
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread ... hlight=lcd

This link is to a PDF explaining how to fix the display....
http://www.nynexonline.co.uk/storage/di ... repair.php

HTH.

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Excellent stuff! Well done for changing the chip for a permanent fix. Do you know if the firm will supply a processor for the TT?


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi John,
Yeah they will do the chip for the TT... 
http://www.codecard.lt/electronics/2j74 ... d_127.html

The chip is 80 Euros & postage is 15 Euros so a a total of 95 Euros....just over £80 at the current exchange rate....a lot of money for what it is but still a lot cheaper than having it done via a company....plus the satisfaction of fixing it yourself !

Cheers.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Thanks, that's always worth knowing


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## AnTTo (Oct 9, 2009)

Thought that aint gonna create new topic so..

I also have a dashpod problem. My fuel gauge shows 1/2 when empty and temp is 110c and more when really about 90 or less. ALSO my dashpod drains 0.04A power when switched off and not even illuminating. I also had recently problems with my remotes, as they stopped working or work intermittently (one workes, other not and so on).

My question is - are these problems also due to FAULTY PROCESSOR? Or I need to to anything else? Like change motors (or whatever they are) what are behind fuel & temp needles? Or the worse - change hole dashpod?

I really hope it is only the processor but not sure. Contacted codecard.lt (noticed its in Lithuania and gave them my processor serial number. They answered me very unclearly - that processor is OK, but I have to change fuel & temp pointer motors. If so, why the hell it consumes power then? It doesnt on other TT-s 

Then when I answered that I dont think pointers are with motors, they said I have to change magnetic needles - thats the part when I realised, they mess up something.

Anyway the offered me to order a processor with right software :
http://www.codecard.lt/electronics/2j74 ... d_127.html

As I have 2003 year model, I am not sure will this processor change help me or not.

Could be that drain issue be caused by something else in the dashpod rather than the processor?

Thank You!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

It depends on whether you have the custom mask coded version of the processor or the FLASH version. Here's the MC68HC908AZ60 datasheet which may help you identify it: http://www.freescale.com/files/microcon ... umentation

Later TTs from, we are told, 2004 had masked processors so did not have the problem with failing memory. The symptoms you describe sound like they could be the processor. The motors which drive the needles can get stuck but this isn't the case if they return to zero when you turn the ignition off. If they just read high when turned on then this sounds like a calibration issue which is a common processor memory corruption manifestation. A second check is to read the DIS range value and see if it matches what the needle says - if it does then you could have a fuel sensor issue. A similar thing applies with the temperature where you can use the 49C trick on the aircon to check the dashpod needle - if they agree then you have a faulty temp sensor. Seems unlikely perhaps for both but check this first. The current of 40mA I'm not sure about without measuring it. The dashpod is permanently powered to some extent.

See this article from our club magazine _absoluTTe_: 
Dashpod - A bit of a problem

Also see this external link: http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/clusterrepair.html


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## AnTTo (Oct 9, 2009)

Thank You John for reply.

Now have read all the links you gave. That DIY cluster repair I have read quite a few times by now. As I understand thats only for stucking needles? Like needle movements are stucking or so then I would need to change those. But on mine they just show wrong values. After ignition off, lights of the needles go down to below zero. Lights or ingition on, needles move not to zero but higher!

That processor version link you gave is too cpmplicated for me. Tried to find anything but had no luck. My processor has written MC68HC908AZ60 2J74Y on it. Also 504000001109 HC V8.51 FP 2209162. Meaning my processor version is 8.51. From codecar.lt I couldnt find that version - all were older ones. So now I am not sure if should risk ordering.

I have done 49C test through climatic - the values are different. When ECU shows 60C then needle shows 90C (and 90C is 110-120C). So its not a temp sensor fault. Also my DIS shows different values for fuel.

More concerns me dashpod drain issue - could the processor cause that too or could it be something else. Some dry joint or like that? My friend tested his TT with multi meter and alltogehter his power consumption was 0,001-0,003A which I know is normal for all cars. I means that his dashpod cant use 0,04A and doesnt use any I believe (he didnt test it sepparately).

Why I am asking all this is because I want to know which way to go - to order a new processor if old one is faulty or if the processor is not THE ONLY FAULT and there could be more faults with dash then it would be better to buy a NEW DASHPOD and then code it to my card (I saw DIY for that here also).


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## willibuyaudiagain (Dec 16, 2009)

my problem is the temperature gauge displays a high reading (it used to sit perfect at 90 and now after about 15 minutes of the engine reading it sits on 110)

When the engine is cold it sits on about 65c-70c

Could I not get away with taking the dashpod out and just moving the needle on the temperature back round.

Is this possible or wishful thinking?!?

regards


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## AnTTo (Oct 9, 2009)

Hello!

I would appreciate your answer to my questions. You seem to know more about electronics.

Could You help me identify what version my dashpod processor could be? I wrote all the serial numbers into the topic. Want to solve that problem soon but not sure which way to go. Not sure about the codecard.lt sending me the processor with right version of software..

Its been said here that dashpod also causes the battery drain. But I havent seen what exactly is the cause of that drain in dashpod - is it a failing processor or some short-circuit in some dry joints or something like that. I mean could replacing the processor cure the values and also a drain issue.

Thank You!  Hope you can help a little.



John-H said:


> It depends on whether you have the custom mask coded version of the processor or the FLASH version. Here's the MC68HC908AZ60 datasheet which may help you identify it: http://www.freescale.com/files/microcon ... umentation
> 
> Later TTs from, we are told, 2004 had masked processors so did not have the problem with failing memory. The symptoms you describe sound like they could be the processor. The motors which drive the needles can get stuck but this isn't the case if they return to zero when you turn the ignition off. If they just read high when turned on then this sounds like a calibration issue which is a common processor memory corruption manifestation. A second check is to read the DIS range value and see if it matches what the needle says - if it does then you could have a fuel sensor issue. A similar thing applies with the temperature where you can use the 49C trick on the aircon to check the dashpod needle - if they agree then you have a faulty temp sensor. Seems unlikely perhaps for both but check this first. The current of 40mA I'm not sure about without measuring it. The dashpod is permanently powered to some extent.
> 
> ...


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## mark550455 (Nov 4, 2009)

Hi,

Sorry for jumping on your thread, but very interested in the conclusion as my 2004 TT has had the exact Fuel and Temp Gauge problem for some time. I can live with it at the moment as the miles to go is correct and I have done the 49c check and all is well. Therefore as long as the temp gauge stays at 110, then I know all is ok.

I would however like to solve the problem, therefore will monitor your thread. I know clusterrepairs will sort it out for £195, but at the moment happy to wait.

regards

mark


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## mighTy Tee (Jul 10, 2002)

willibuyaudiagain said:


> my problem is the temperature gauge displays a high reading (it used to sit perfect at 90 and now after about 15 minutes of the engine reading it sits on 110)
> 
> When the engine is cold it sits on about 65c-70c
> 
> ...


read this and make you own mind up :wink: :wink:


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
I have resurrected this thread just to let you know that the replacement processor that I got from Codecard has started to play up  I thought that the replacement would last a bit longer than just over 2 years but I guess that's just the way things go, so it's back to the chip heater for the time being.

I think I'll just go with a 2nd hand set of clocks this time as there are plenty around. I've read of a few people using 2nd hand clocks on the Laguna so I don't think there's any code problems or anything like that, The only problem will be with the mileage, do any of you knowledgeable chaps know what would be involved in correcting the mileage ? 
I assume it's stored on the processor ? is it something that's possible to do yourself with a bit of ingenuity ?

Cheers.


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## corradoman (Sep 11, 2010)

Can the mileage be changed with vagcom


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
I'm not sure, I was thinking more along the lines of maybe connecting direct to the processor.

Cheers.


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## Tel boy (Dec 19, 2008)

Hi,
I managed to find a set of 2nd hand clocks that had a recorded mileage of only 600 miles more than mine so that's close enough for me. The clocks are fitted and everthing is working fine.

Cheers.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

corradoman said:


> Can the mileage be changed with vagcom


Yes, but only if your new pod is under 60 miles I think. If it is over then it will not let you change the mileage.


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## nathan88 (Oct 18, 2009)

[/quote]

Wak is right, this isn't the only problem with the pod, some are more serious then dancing needles.

Well done for sorting the problem, should help some people out![/quote]But if he had taken his car to Audi they would have just changed the pod and charged him Â£800 when clearly it could have been fixed 
how many of the other dp faults could Audi may be fix if they put little effort in to it :?: [/quote]

After working in a dealer for 2 years (BMW) you quickly learn 99% of components are simply replaced and not fixed...and that's no exaggeration..shame really.


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## muxgt (Apr 12, 2010)

DANCING NEELDES NEED REPLACEMENT MOTORS AND NO THEY DONT NEED A CHIP AS I HAVE READ IN MANY OTHER POSTS!!!.......

ALL WAS REVELLED BY JOHN-H THE OTHER DAY.

A COMPANY ON EBAY SELL THE MOTORS

LCD DISPLAYS WILL NEED RE-SOLDERING BY A PROFESSIONAL WITH A SPECIAL SOLDER KIT.


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## muxgt (Apr 12, 2010)

.


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

muxgt said:


> DANCING NEELDES NEED REPLACEMENT MOTORS AND NO THEY DONT NEED A CHIP AS I HAVE READ IN MANY OTHER POSTS!!!.......
> 
> ALL WAS REVELLED BY JOHN-H THE OTHER DAY.
> 
> ...


What you have there is an excellent write-up and it will be useful for those who have that same problem.... however....
Dont be so sure of the needles just needing replacement.... as the quote here courtesy of Gunner demonstrates.
This is also a common dashpod symptom.... and im telling you that this isnt a fault with just the needle motors...



GunnerGibson said:


> If its flickering like a disco then there is probably a fault.. when I had a faulty pod, my whole dash area flickered..
> 
> So i bought a 70s disco cd for effect and dressed up.


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## muxgt (Apr 12, 2010)

I do apologize, yes there are other reasons for dancing needles and not just needles that are stuck in one place or move whenever they feel like!.

Thank you


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

It depends on what people understand by "dancing needles". I think the phrase was first coined in relation to a video that was posted showing all the needles jumping up and down at once as well as the lights flashing on and off. The first case investigated in depth on here turned out to be due to the processor crashing due to the firmware memory corruption causing the watchdog to continuously reset the processor. Not the same thing as one needle jumping because it gets stuck mechanically.


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## muxgt (Apr 12, 2010)

John-H said:


> It depends on what people understand by "dancing needles". I think the phrase was first coined in relation to a video that was posted showing all the needles jumping up and down at once as well as the lights flashing on and off. The first case investigated in depth on here turned out to be due to the processor crashing due to the firmware memory corruption causing the watchdog to continuously reset the processor. Not the same thing as one needle jumping because it gets stuck mechanically.


Cheers Jonh-H


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## muxgt (Apr 12, 2010)

antcole said:


> muxgt said:
> 
> 
> > DANCING NEELDES NEED REPLACEMENT MOTORS AND NO THEY DONT NEED A CHIP AS I HAVE READ IN MANY OTHER POSTS!!!.......
> ...


Thank you antcole ... "Kit" knight rider


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