# Detailing Clay - Which One??



## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Went into Halfords today to buy some detailing clay but all they seem to sell are kits that include 100g clay bar, lubricant & microfibre cloth for around £21 upwards.
I have several microfibre cloths and Dave (jack-in-a-box) recommends a double strength mix of car wash in an atomiser spray as a lubricant, i have both, so really i just want some clay.
So any recommendations?
Here's what i've found on e-bay: -

3M http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Detailing- ... 3a6a6a7fc5

Bilt Hamber http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-A ... 19c2840eaa

Reins http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-DETAILING ... 3cb9ed6031

Thanks


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## burns (Jun 2, 2009)

I haven't checked your links, but you will find that if you turn to the shelf opposite all the "general" car cleaning stuff in Halfrauds, that you see a Meguiars display. They have a single clay bar for £9.99. Last weekend they had a buy one get one free offer. I therefore relieved them of two clay bars...went to use it on Sunday and found that one pack was minus the clay bar! :evil: Not been back yet, but I can imagine I'm going to have an argument on my hands. :roll:


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## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

Considered anything from the G/B for Zaino products? Their claybar works perfectly with soapy water lub.

The Megs clay will clay either break up or turn into a sticky mess as will the 3M clay (if it's the blue stuff) when used with soapy water.

Over the past few years I've been using DP Universal clay which I liked. Buy from here, they're good to deal with:

http://www.motorgeek.co.uk/clay-with-fr ... -p-164.htm

Works well with "home brew" lub too :wink:

Dave


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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

Have you tried iron x? It removes a lot and means you dont go through so much clay bar.

I use dodo juice clay and the lube,last time paid around 20 for two bars and the spray.


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Thanks for the replies folks  
From reading up on here and taking Dave's advice (jack-in-a-box) about mixing up a soloution of double strength car wash in an old plant sprayer as a lubricant, plus the fact that i already have microfibre cloths i went for the cheap option of a Reins 100g bar for £5.99 for my first go at claying instead of buying a £20+ kit.

So yesterday i washed the car and then set about using the clay bar. I put one of my freshly washed dust sheets on the floor around the car going on the tip i'd read on here about putting an old towel or something down around the area you are working on incase the bar gets dropped... what a great tip, i dropped the slippery sucker 3 times so without the dust sheet it would have been scrap in less then 5 mins!
To be honest it was only the front bumper and the bonnet that anything really substantial came off but after only 2 or 3 strokes on a given area you can noticably feel how silky smooth the bar starts to slide across the paintwork.
After claying i had to break for lunch and to go to football so didn't set about polishing the car until about 6pm. The car was covered in the sort of water marks you get from not leathering and i think i should have really washed it over again before polishing (sorry, waxing is the term i think i should be using... Auto-Glym Ultra Deep Shine) as there are areas that seem to have the water marks trapped under the protective coat and just won't buff-up 100% if you know what i mean? Any suggestions here greatly appreciated??

Anyway the TT is now silky smooth which was the object of the exercise


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## Phil_RS (Mar 2, 2010)

I always wash the car again after claying to make sure you get any small bis of dirt off that might not have stuck to the claybar. Given the car is pretty much clean at this poiht it only takes a coupe of minutes.


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## burns (Jun 2, 2009)

warrenstuart said:


> there are areas that seem to have the water marks trapped under the protective coat and just won't buff-up 100% if you know what i mean? Any suggestions here greatly appreciated??
> 
> Anyway the TT is now silky smooth which was the object of the exercise


Wash again, polish then wax. 8)


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Phil_RS said:


> I always wash the car again after claying to make sure you get any small bis of dirt off that might not have stuck to the claybar. Given the car is pretty much clean at this poiht it only takes a coupe of minutes.





burns said:


> Wash again, polish then wax. 8)


I thought as much, thanks guys


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Just given a good wash with a strong mix of car wash and ready for polishing again. Waxed over water marks all gone


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## Mr_Blue (Apr 11, 2012)

Good work! I use Sonus clay when I can be bothered but the Reins one looks like good value.

Prefer using Iron-x and other fallout removers these days. Clay can scratch the paint in handled wrong.


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