# Recommended Polish



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

Hi guys, got my Bilt Hamber clay bar today, and am now just wanting to know what polishes you all recommend (reasonable price please!)


----------



## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

Do you want a polish (an abrasive compound designed to flatten and/or gloss) or do you want a last stage product (wax or synthetic sealant)?

Sorry to be picky, but there is a huge difference between a polish and a wax or sealant.


----------



## dooka (Apr 28, 2006)

As above..

So much confusion over polishes and waxes..


----------



## oldguy (Jun 25, 2009)

If claying, shouldn't the next step be polish? Then Wax and or seal ?

I've used sonus polishes for a while by hand and like the results....

Then swisswax cleaner fluid, then Swisswax Onyx wax


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

I am a bit of an ignoramus when it comes to this guys. I would have normally washed and polished the car, then a couple of times a year, washed, polished and waxed.

I had not planned to wax the car just yet, however, if you think I should be doing it then I will take the advice. Is it not sufficient just to wash, clay and polish with a wax done a couple of times a year?

What products and process should I use/follow then? I am not on a very rich budget if that makes any difference.

Appreciate the help.


----------



## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

Personally, I wouldn't bother claying. If you don't know what you're doing then you can actually damage the finish (marring), plus it's a right old faff in my opinion. I've had it done for me, but I wouldn't bother myself. If you do, then use enough lubricant to make sure the clay glides across the surface.

In your situation I would suggest Autoglym Super Resin Polish (SRP) 2-3 times per year and then Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (EGP) applied once a month. You can probably apply the EGP a lot less often but to be honest it goes on and comes off so easily I don't mind doing it very regularly.

Autoglym's products are not very fashionable, but they are relatively cheap and they work very well indeed. If you have a black car, you could swap the SRP for Poorboy's Black Hole glaze, which is just amazing on black cars, but you must apply the EGP on top as it will wash out otherwise. SRP has some sealant in it, so you can use it and leave it without the EGP if you choose.

I would buy 4 sponge applicator pads (one each for the EGP and SRP, and one each for when you drop them), a pack of microfibre cloths (for drying and product removal) and if you can bring yourself to do it, some 3M masking tape to mask off the black trim around the wing mirrors (SRP is a right barsteward to remove from textured plastic).

That lot should cost you about £50 all in and last at least a year if you wash the cloths and pads every time you use them.


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

That sounds like a great plan mate, I am happy to buy decent products, I am not in to just having things because they are 'in'. I may give claying a bit of a go, but if I am not confident, I will leave it be.

I think I might get my hands on those products then and give this all a go.

Any other suggestions on products etc are welcome though!


----------



## WozzaTT (Jan 15, 2006)

MUFC.TT said:


> That sounds like a great plan mate, I am happy to buy decent products, I am not in to just having things because they are 'in'. I may give claying a bit of a go, but if I am not confident, I will leave it be.
> 
> I think I might get my hands on those products then and give this all a go.
> 
> Any other suggestions on products etc are welcome though!


I've clayed mine a few times and it's a piece of piss to be honest - as wja96 says, just make sure you use plenty of lubricant with it.

As a cheap(ish) alternative to Autoglym I like the Meguiars range - cleaner, polish and wax. Make sure you get good quality microfibre cloths as well.

All the Meguiars stuff, as well as Autoglym, can be bought at Halfords and they've got a 3 for 2 offer on at the moment.


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

Took the advice guys, bought some Autoglym products (mentioned by Wja) and bought Meguiars microfibre cloths x3, 4 Meguiars Microfibre applicator pads, and a meguiar microfibre wash mit.

Think I am all set to get stuck in, I think I will give the claying a go Wozza, the Bilt Hamber stuff only needs water as a lubricant, any tips for claying? Will one go round the car use the whole bar?


----------



## J55TTC (Apr 25, 2005)

Something to consider is autoglyms new HD cleanser I recently did the following with amazing results!
Wash with meguiars gold class shampoo
Clay with meguiars clay kit
HD cleanser from autoglym
Polish with autoglym super resin polish
Wax x2 with autoglym HD wax

Sent from my iPhone


----------



## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

J55TTC said:


> Something to consider is autoglyms new HD cleanser


What benefit do you think you got from the cleanser?

I don't usually use a Pre-wax but I'll givevit a go if it's worth it.


----------



## WozzaTT (Jan 15, 2006)

MUFC.TT said:


> Took the advice guys, bought some Autoglym products (mentioned by Wja) and bought Meguiars microfibre cloths x3, 4 Meguiars Microfibre applicator pads, and a meguiar microfibre wash mit.
> 
> Think I am all set to get stuck in, I think I will give the claying a go Wozza, the Bilt Hamber stuff only needs water as a lubricant, any tips for claying? Will one go round the car use the whole bar?


Sounds like you've got some decent reasonably priced gear there  .

As regards the clay, just break off a piece and knead it to make a pad around 1.5" in diameter and around 1⁄4" thick and then keep turning it over when the side you're using gets dirty. I find a piece that size will do for the whole car, then when it's getting towards the point where you can't find a clean surface anymore do the windscreen and wheels. Keep the bodywork well lubricated when you're claying. I ususally do about a square foot at a time, or a panel or whatever, no need to press down hard, just gentle overlapping lines. You'll immediately be able to feel how smooth the surface is and see the crud collecting on the clay.

My regime is:-

Use pressure washer on car and wheels.

Clean wheels and exhaust tips. Wheels - loads of products out there. If your exhaust tips are really cruddy oven cleaner is good, lots of elbow grease, then autosol.

Wash car with wash mitt using a couple of teaspoons of Johnson's baby shampoo (the stuff in the blue bottle) in a bucket of water.

Dry car. I use a synthetic chamois.

Then clay, wash again and dry.

Apply cleaner with applicator pad and buff with microfibre cloth.

Apply polish with applicator pad and buff with microfibre cloth.

Apply wax with applicator pad and buff with microfibre cloth.

Takes a good few hours but then you can stand back and admire your work and worry about the scratch/corrosion that you've just noticed and wasn't there last time!

That works for me anyway - many are more fastidious and use the 2 bucket method etc etc but I never have.

Then you can start thinking about the door seals, rubbers, vinyls, plastics, engine bay and leather!


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

All sounds good to me Woz, looking forward to getting stuck in, just need a day where the weather is nice for long enough to do it all!

When you say wash again after claying, do you mean with shampoo etc again or just a rinse?


----------



## J55TTC (Apr 25, 2005)

A quick wash with shampoo is best

Sent from my iPhone


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

Cheers! Just waiting on the weather now, Hoping Saturday is good!


----------



## WozzaTT (Jan 15, 2006)

J55TTC said:


> A quick wash with shampoo is best
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


+1. After claying you'll probably find you've got like a milky brown residue all over the car so best to give it a proper wash again.


----------



## Phil-TT (Feb 11, 2011)

Cheers Woz


----------

