# Car air conditioning recharge



## WAZ-TT (Sep 20, 2004)

Can anyone who has a Bentley Manual tell me or post me a pic of where, which connection on the A/C pipes, you can use to top up the freon on the TT?

My car is blowing a bit cool but could use a top up. There are kits available from Halfords for about Â£20.00. These also include an oil for lubing the system.

Any help as always greatly appreciated...


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## Jo Sharp (May 7, 2004)

I really would not use a recharge kit from halfords. It is important that the moisture that gathers in the dessicator is dried out. I took mine to Avacs in Alton last year- they had it on the dryer for over an hour and then re-gassed it for just over Â£100.


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Hi I have had no air con in my TT for a few weeks since i bought so I just bought a kit from Halfords but can anyone please tell me where the low side air conditioning port is ?


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Charge mass is critical to performance.

Get it wrong and you will trash the compressor. Without a gauge set you will not know if you are heading for disaster.

One shot kits should be avoided. There is still a few on the market but import / manufacture is now banned in EU.

Its also an offence to charge a system without the required certification (EU F Gas regs).

That said some get away with a 100g or so 'top up' (also illegal now)

The LP is the smaller (diameter) of the two access fittings normally on the larger diameter tube.










Find a refrigeration/air con engineer ........

Someone did an rather detailed article in AbsoluTTe on this subject.... :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Thanks I found the pipe close to the front drivers side headlight (the one in your photo is the other high side port which is the wrong one, sorry). I recharged the system from a dial reading of zero on the supplied connector with the air con running, to a reading in the green as recommended but it hasnt worked the air temp is still warm when set on low.

Great £50 down the drain.

Any chance my compressor etc is already trashed. Ive only owned the car since May and have never got the air con to work ?


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## mauvedipstick15 (Jan 25, 2011)

I think Kwik Fit had a deal on £49.99 for re-charge and guarantee's a refund if car does not run cooler.


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## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

TT shop charge £65 to do it properly plus VAT, i cannot fathom out spending nearly that on a kit.

http://www.thettshop.com/servicing_mk1_4wd.asp

Hope you get it sorted.


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

apj said:


> Thanks I found the pipe close to the front drivers side headlight (the one in your photo is the other high side port which is the wrong one, sorry). I recharged the system from a dial reading of zero on the supplied connector with the air con running, to a reading in the green as recommended but it hasnt worked the air temp is still warm when set on low.
> 
> Great £50 down the drain.
> 
> Any chance my compressor etc is already trashed. Ive only owned the car since May and have never got the air con to work ?


No its the right one its just mine is a 3.2.....
Zero reading suggests a hole in the system. No amount of r.efrigerant will fix that.
System needs to be recovered and vacuumed then leak tested..only then should any refrigerant be added.
I will drop you a check list (tomorrow) but normally its a stone hole in the lower section of the condenser.


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

thank you


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

TT shop is in Bedford and I'm in Telford so a diy kit is more convenient


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## Taylortony (Feb 10, 2012)

Don't know if this helps,

Telford air con service, less than £50

http://www.arcvaletingtelford.co.uk/air ... ing-re-gas

Lots more google air con service Telford


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Most garages offer a recharge service.
This usually consists of a dedicated machine that recovers (sucks) any refrigerant from your system, vacuums the system and then waits a while to see if the pressure rises (air getting in). If it doesn't then the machine bashes a measure charge into the system.

My view has always been that this is not a proper leak test which should be done at pressure not vacuum.

The one shot cans are based on the assumption that your system is working but not as good as it was. The refrigerant seeps out from the seals and hoses especially if you don't run it regularly. After a couple of years the one shot 100 or so grams give you back some performance. If it's broke this fixes nothing.

If your system has a 'hole' or as we call it a 'leak' then the refrigerant leaks out quickly. You need to find the hole first as any air getting into the system stops it from working as does losing all the charge.

Vag Com scan first! Module 08 Auto HVAC

First is there any pressure in the system...you need a pressure gauge for that but Audi provide a pressure switch and if you check the output it will show if the 'low pressure' failure has occurred. This will also show up in Vag Com. You should have volts to the pressure switch.

There are two possible types on the TT a conventional on/off pressure switch and a compound variable signal type. If you want the electrical tests I can post them.

Next the compressor will only work if the pressure switch is in a 'good' place and there is power from the fan controller. When the compressor powers you will hear a 'click or clunk' as the compressor clutch kicks in. This will only happen with the engine running and the A/C on. The ECON button turns the compressor off.

The fans should also kick in.

Power to the compressor, fan controller and fans can be checked with a multimeter. The compressor clutch and fans can be hot wired (briefly please) but the connectors are a bi**ch to get to as is the fan controller.

Check all the fuses but especially the ones on the battery cover.

Your system should have a leak detection fluorescent dye in it. You will need a blacklight (UV) to see the dye but in good light big leaks will show up. Check the lower section of the condenser, that's the heat exchanger in front of the radiator where it can catch all the stones and other road debris. Most die here. Have a check of the hoses for splits or wear and the wiring to all the above mentioned bits especially the fan controller.

If you get really stuck pop down to Winchester! Otherwise find a good fridge tech.

To do a proper home fix you will need the right tools including a gauge set and vacuum pump.

And finally 'Freon' is a old trade name for a range of now banned CFC's. Its R134a! (sorry just a bug bear of mine)


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Pressure Switch and jumper test details...



















This will give you a quick go/no on refrigerant in the system....


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Thank you Typhhon for all that excellent information.

I am not great around the electrics on the car so I don't own a multi meter I am afraid.

Ive just popped into my local indie garage that offered a good rep and also the option to have the iar con repired if there was a leak etc.

They did a visual check and said that the air con pump clutch was not engaged so the pump was not working, for free they put it on vcds for me and there were no error codes so they suggested it was most likely a faulty connection to the pump or a faulty pump.

Is it possible to be told in layman's terms how I should firstly check the wiring and then the pump please ?

Cheers

Andrew


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

At this point some would get someone else to do it.

Warning is that messing with electrics can result in total loss....fire etc....

A tail light bulb and two bits of wire taped on will tell you if you have 'volts' at the compressor connection.

Disconnect cable to compressor fit wires to free connector, see if bulb lights up when A/C on.

Problem is the engine has to be running to see if the compressor is live, moving parts warning etc. As said access is a right pain easiest from underneath, floor pan off on a ramp is good, jack up in the road ..... well not good

The compressor clutch is driven by a weedy relay and prone to failure. If your fans and other bits are OK (running) then the clutch is a good call. If it has a live supply but not working it can be replaced separately but a recon compressor is normally about the same cost.

To check the compressor function you need it running and a set of gauges....

Good luck!


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Great thanks again, just one thing for now, when you say ............. If your fans and other bits are OK (running) how do i check this ? The main engine radiator fan comes on when the car heats when left idling on the drive ?


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

apj said:


> Great thanks again, just one thing for now, when you say ............. If your fans and other bits are OK (running) how do i check this ? The main engine radiator fan comes on when the car heats when left idling on the drive ?


Second fan should come on with A/C especially in current temperatures...if it doesn't something else is wrong.


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Ok just to clear, I let the engine idle turn ac on to low and the second fan nearest the ac pump should come on ?


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

Right I have warmed the car up and at the same time run the ac on low and after 10 mins both fans came on for a few seconds. So the fans seem fine. It looks like a faulty ac pump don't you think ?


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## shshivji (Nov 25, 2009)

Also the ac compressor won't kick in unless there is a sufficient amount of gas in the system, did the garage re gas first before they diagnosed the pump??
Shak


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

No I regassed and nothing happened and garage advised clutch on pump wasnt engaging (turning) so most likely clutch knackered. I can get a replacement pump for 30 pounds s/h


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## shshivji (Nov 25, 2009)

apj said:


> No I regassed and nothing happened and garage advised clutch on pump wasnt engaging (turning) so most likely clutch knackered. I can get a replacement pump for 30 pounds s/h


How much does a can carry??? If you have a leak the system will be empty, the ac capacity is around 700g, when the system reaches to a low level of refrigerant the system will not engage to save the compressor from damage. I don't think there is enough refrigerant in a can to even reach the minimum amount :?

Shak


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

What he said.

Compressor clutch looks good as a cause but do check it has power before ripping it out.

Cans carry various charges normally from 100 to 500g


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## apj (May 31, 2012)

When you connect the diy kit to the ac on the TT it gives a pressure reading, mine was on zero so I assumed the refridgerant was exhausted as the car hasn't been well looked after and is 12 years old. So I squeezed the trigger and filled it until the gauge read in the green.

Chemical did go in as I said and the gauge still shows in the green.

This is why I went to the garage yesterday and as I said they said the clutch on the compressor was not engaging and was not moving with the compressor wheel.

The can by the way is 532 ml.


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Problem is if the system was empty and air has got in the refrigerant can't change phase properly (that's the process that makes A/C work)

If the fan is working then it suggests the LP Switch has been engaged and that means you have operating pressure and power to the compressor.

If the compressor does have power at the connector then clutch fault is most probable.

Few words of warning... if you are thinking of replacing the compressor remember it will be pressurised and it needs recovering (sucking out) before you start. Dumping the refrigerant to the atmosphere is illegal and kills penguins. Don't be tempted as the R134a will come out at around 4 bar and will freeze eyeballs and fingers....

The system will need a full vacuum before refilling. If its left disconnected for a long time a new drier is suggested as well as moisture in the system will generate acid and lots of moisture will freeze and block the system.

These are all jobs for someone will experience and the right tools...


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