# TFSI 1.8 - Engine Purge Valve



## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

Hi, anyone know how easy it is to replace the purge valve on my 8j to ?
I have the new part but the pipes seem to go quite low down the front of the block,


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Remove engine cover
Disconnect vacuum hose
Disconnect breather hose
Disconnect electrical connector
Remove & replace N80
Reinstall in reverse order.

About as simple as it gets. Why are you replacing your N80? Are you replacing your charcoal canister as well?


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## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

Audi dealer diognostic


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## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

It’s the fuel Vapor purge


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

j77drs said:


> It’s the fuel Vapor purge


Yeah, the N80 is the fuel vapor purge valve (large part shown to the left in your picture).
If you want to change the vacuum lines along with the N80 it should be easy to figure out...


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## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

Can you remove the vacuum lines ?

the lines seem tight on the main valve


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## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

Any update on if you can remove the vacuum pipes as they seem like they are heat shrunk on


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

j77drs said:


> Any update on if you can remove the vacuum pipes as they seem like they are heat shrunk on


Vacuum lines are not shrink-to-fit. They are simply pressed on over a barbed fitting. The barb 'bites' into the hose to prevent it from backing off.

There are multiple ways to approach this. First, if there is enough slack in the line you can make a small horizontal slit just over the barb with an Exacto blade. Hose should come right off. Once removed, cut back the hose to remove the damaged area.

If there isn't any slack to spare, a dental pick will help break the hose free. Just get under the front edge to stretch the hose a bit. Carefully twist the hose back and forth while lightly prying with the pick.

If that doesn't work, use a hair dryer to help soften the hose and try again. Sometimes a drop of lubricant applied just under the pick will help.

If the hoses are just too old & stiff it may be better to replace them. Of course it's not all-or-nothing. Maybe you replace all of the hoses that are easy to access and try to salvage the one(s) that are hard to remove...

This is really a judgment call. You don't want to pull so hard you break off a barb fitting so go easy and take your time. You'll have to decide how much work it is replacing a hose vs trying to remove and save the old ones.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Are we talking about this *N80 Valve*...? This *YouTube* video might help.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Are we talking about this *N80 Valve*...? This *YouTube* video might help.
> View attachment 495934
> View attachment 495935


This is for an EA113 engine. The 1.8T in Mk2s is an EA888 engine...it's a very similar valve, location, and procedure but not exactly the same. 

On *EA113* engines the two lines on either side are larger, flexible rubber hoses and easily removed. 

On *EA888* engines the valve is slightly different and it's mounted "the other way" (when you see them comparatively you'll know what I mean). 

Also, on one side the connection is a hard plastic line which is what is being discussed here. 
It's not too easy to remove as it's not really designed to be removed. You're supposed to replace the pipe back to where it connects on the other side, along with the valve. However some people cut the line and the Jerry-rig a hose onto it and clamp it...

A better example is here, at the time around 3:20, he starts mentioning how that side/line works... Then at 4:12 he describes the Jerry rig method, lol:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks for the clarification.


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## j77drs (Aug 8, 2019)

Exactly, it’s the hard plastic side, I would replace all but looks like the inlet manifold needs to be removed to do this ?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

j77drs said:


> Exactly, it’s the hard plastic side, I would replace all but looks like the inlet manifold needs to be removed to do this ?


I found a better video, below...

It seems you don't have to remove the IM but it's only barely doable without doing that. In this video he's basically doing half of the job to remove the intake manifold, lol, plus he had to remove the rad fans... Basically he had to go at it from from above and below and remove the mentioned fans, the throttle pipe, the throttle body, and the intake support bracket. All in all, looks like a real PITA to get done. Might as well pull the intake and do a carbon clean while you're at it! 






A funny note is how he jokingly mentions his "buddy", Flat Rate Master (another Youtuber if you're not familiar), not providing him any tips. In the comments Flat Rate Master provides the tip that...he might as well remove the intake and sell a carbon cleaning at the same time. So removing the intake is really a "while you're in there" or "might as well" step in truth.


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