# Car will start, but then dies after a few seconds...



## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

I am pulling my hair out...can you help...here's a little background...Roadster 225 2002

So my battery died over the Christmas period as the car was not being used.

I replaced the battery, started the car and all seemed well, it was left running for half an hour or so, with the heater on, to dry the inside as condensation had built up and i was giving the interior a good clean.

Now, when I came to drive the car a few days later, the battery was dead again, I came home to the hazards going and the windows half way down...a bit confusing as it has been left stood before now for over a week and hasn't needed a jump or displayed any of these signs before. So, as I needed the car, I gave it a jump and all seemed fine.

Until I set, off, the hazard lights would come on and stay on until I pressed the hazard switch (then the lights would start again after a few seconds), a quick google suggested this could be the hazard switch relay, so I ordered a new one (installing tomorrow). Until then I have left it unplugged.

Now, to make sure everything else was ok, I proceeded to drive the car down the road and back. This is where the problems started.

It through up a P0130 code, but pulled ok, and drove fine apart from the above. Stopped the car, cleared the code, and it hasn't come back...however...

The car now starts for a few seconds and then cuts out.

No codes are displayed (using my scangauge2), so I have now ordered VAG-COM cable and software which should be here in a few days. Hopefully this will tell me more.

I thought the car may be low on fuel, so I added jerry can full of fresh fuel. Car started and ran for a few minutes. Until once again, it died, and now its doing exactly the same thing, starting and stopping.

If I keep the revs up it seems to stay on a little longer, but ultimately it dies. No codes, no lights on the dash etc.

But now the door immobilizer lights are permanently on red (both sides, not flashing) and the door lock button in the center of the car is permanently illuminated. Whether you lock the car, unlock the car or have the key in the ignition.

What is my next step? I really need my car for work and just general use as it is my daily...PLEASE HELP!


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

I'm no expert but in my own experience with the car starting then cutting out after a few seconds it generally points to the immobiliser. Someone with more input will be along shortly to hep :lol:


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

black9146 said:


> I'm no expert but in my own experience with the car starting then cutting out after a few seconds it generally points to the immobiliser. Someone with more input will be along shortly to hep :lol:


Is this the trick of removing battery + & -, holding them together for 30 seconds to reset the car (whilst the drivers door is closed), and then sticking the key in the ignition for 1 minute (on power but not cranked) and then start the car?

Would this throw up symptoms of the door immobilizer lights being permanently on as well as the door lock button in the center of the car? Because I don't have a light on the dash like I have seen in other threads. Although I will try this tonight when I get home.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

I don't know if I'm understanding you correctly ? Are you meaning to remove the + and - and touching them together ? If you are then I wouldn't do that ! If I have picked you up wrong I apologise. You would be best to wait for another forum member to reply to your post. I realise you need your car but you don't want to cause any more damage to it, have you done a search on here ?


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

black9146 said:


> I don't know if I'm understanding you correctly ? Are you meaning to remove the + and - and touching them together ? If you are then I wouldn't do that ! If I have picked you up wrong I apologise. You would be best to wait for another forum member to reply to your post. I realise you need your car but you don't want to cause any more damage to it, have you done a search on here ?


1 million searches ...hence posting this thread as a last resort...the above reply is something I have seen Hoggy and others suggest in threads showing similar symptoms to mine...however they all had the light on the dash that flashed. I dont.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Yes I had the immobiliser light on my dash when I had problems with my roadster starting. Someone will be along to help, most members will be at work at the moment I would imagine.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Sounds like duff battery, alternator not charging enough perhaps, possibly fuel pump 
When it dies does the dashboard immobiliser flash? or its just cuts out.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Wak said:


> Sounds like duff battery, alternator not charging enough perhaps, possibly fuel pump
> When it dies does the dashboard immobiliser flash? or its just cuts out.


Just cuts out mate...no lights at all...

I was thinking the battery, its one of those cheap EuroCarParts ones...reckon i should take it back? Just wasnt sure why it allows me to start it so many times? Id have thought if the battery was dead it would struggle to kick the starter...

They're are some faint clicking noises in the cab when I turn the key to power which I havent really noticed before...I presumed this was the pump priming, but now you are making me think twice...


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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

Wak has pointed a few good causes. I have seen similair cutting out issues on 3 occasions

Mini cooper, blocked fuel filter, changed filter sorted it
Honda covic type r, not enough fuel in tank, took two large cans before it would fire properley
Audi s3, rubbish fuel from BP

For the battery check take it back they should be able to test it for you.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Gixxer123 said:


> Wak has pointed a few good causes. I have seen similair cutting out issues on 3 occasions
> 
> Mini cooper, blocked fuel filter, changed filter sorted it
> Honda covic type r, not enough fuel in tank, took two large cans before it would fire properley
> ...


Cheers buddy...Im just trying to get as much information I can from people who have experienced similar problems...the cars been off the road for 2 months and this is the last weekend i have access to another car 

If i need to order anything, it needs to be tomorrow morning to ensure I get bits for Saturday...

Keep the online diagnostics coming! (I appreciate all the help )


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Have you scanned again recently?

the Lambda fault which didn't come back, see if it has returned not all faults would come back immediately.

Also try starting with the Air mass meter disconnected, does it stay running? go for a short drive if its ok, is it driving fine. 
( Could be the air mass meter is shot), but...... air mass disconnection can hide issues around large leaks as well, hence some caution around this test)


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Wak said:


> Have you scanned again recently?
> 
> the Lambda fault which didn't come back, see if it has returned not all faults would come back immediately.
> 
> ...


Last night it got down the road and back before cutting out...no code came back as of last night...

I will give it a go, would a vaccum leak cause the problems im having? Ive done some reading and similar symptoms are from peoples who's DV pipe had come off etc...I will be having a nosey when im home, but im certainly not qualified to diagnose those types of leaks, nor do i have the kit.

If it stays running when the air mass meter is unplugged, should I change that first? What harm could occur from doing this (im scared )

The car never skipped a beat (engine wise) before it was left standing over christmas


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Disconnecting the MAF will not cause any short term problems. Alarm will clear once reconnected & taken for run.
Disconnected MAF will cause a richer mixture, which as WAK stated can hide a weak mixture prob, but try that first.
Is there plenty of petrol in tank, above half full ??
Hoggy.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Update:

Currently sat in the car, and it's idleing fine

Went to Euro and got them to upgrade the battery

Did the touch termainls away from battery trick that I've read. Carried out the key synchro routine, to make sure it wasn't that, still not lights on during or after it.

Checked fuses 11 & 15 (both fine)

Unplugged MAF and it died exactly the same as last time (if not quicker)

No codes have come back

But it seems temperamental on whether or not it wants to stay on...

I was able to drive around the block, pulled like normal and drove like normal. However as soon as I got home and it was ideling, it died again, same symptom.

Lights on doors and switch for doors is still illuminated.

That cars fit a 1/4 tank of fuel...should I risk going to the petrol station to fill it up, and trying to give it a blast down the motorway and back?


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Another update:

Now the courtesy lights in the cabin are on 

And when I drive the windows are going up and down...I'd laugh but this isn't funny


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

I'm thinking alternator or earth lead/s playing up.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

I've come to the conclusion that it's the comfort control module behind the drivers seat...just stuck my head in the hatch and there's a lot of water 

I can here it clicking...what should I do? It's not very easy to get to on the roadster


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Dis connect the battery asap, then set about removing the module, then leave on top of a radiator indoors to dry out, ( that's what i would do )


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Delta4 said:


> Dis connect the battery asap, then set about removing the module, then leave on top of a radiator indoors to dry out, ( that's what i would do )


Currently trying to fold myself into the correct shape to get to the module...

Does anybody know if this is a switchable part? Or is this module coded to the car, as it controls the immobiliser etc


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

why don't you start by pulling the fuse for it.
Fuse 6 I believe.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

Wak said:


> why don't you start by pulling the fuse for it.
> Fuse 6 I believe.


So I should pull the fuse and see if it runs fine?

Won't that prevent the immobiliser, doors and windows from working?

What does the comfort control unit actually control?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

CCM needs to be coded to the car. I have one sitting in my garage after I thought mine had been soaked like yours. I managed to dry it out and its been ok since. Looks like your drain tubes are blocked which is causing the water in the car. CCM controls just about everything you mentioned.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

You may have 2 separate faults on the car, The CCM will be full of water and thats causing all the problems with the electrics such as locking , windows etc. There are plenty on Ebay. If you can log in with VCDS and check the module coding make a note of it just in case it dies completely.
If replaced the remotes on the keys will need to be relearned as the wireless unlocking of the car is contained in that module.
There is a wire that runs from the airbag ECU to the CCM and the engine ECU as well as the hazard switch that tells all these modules that the car has been involved in a crash.
The doors will automatically unlock, the hazards will turn on and the engine will turn off. If there are conditions being put out from the CCM to that line then this may cause issues with the ECU.
I wouldn't ignore the Lambda fault though this could be relevant.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Ccm fuse won't effect the immo !

You'll have to use the key to get in but the key transponder is linked to the barrel, ecu and dashpod.

You won't have remote opening/closing


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

By the way if you have to get a new ccm 
1. Make sure it's a Roadster part , it is not the same as a coupe
2. Coding to the car is simple it's not matched to the immo it can be done with vcds very easily


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

UPDATE: (and a huge thanks to everyone who has helped and given advise)

Today, touch wood, all seems well...

I took out the CCM and every plug had a build up of green fur, some electrical cleaner and a cotton bid later, I got the terminals and connectors clean again...it looks like the previous owner may have had this out before, as the casing was loose and you could see the board...a little water was in the case, as was in the well where the CCM sits...

I've had a heater in the car and a hairdryer on it all morning, and all is dry again...

Connected everything back up, battery too, and the car runs, and performs great (the passenger side window was temperamental for an hour (going up and down slightly) but the heat seems to sorting that out

No lights on dash, no other quirks, and all lights for the immobiliser are working once again as they should...I haven't tried the roof yet, but I'm going to fill the car up and go on a run with the heaters on full for a couple of hours

I will report back and update if anything changes!


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

That's a good result, have you done anything regarding that area filling up again.


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## D3YMO (Aug 23, 2016)

I will be doing a search tomorrow morning on what can cause the damp/leaks/ingress etc.

I know there are some common ones but I want to be overly cautious in rectifying to ensure it doesn't happen again...I will be sealing the CCM with some waterproof sealant for a start, and I'll probably make some sort of cover/diverter flap to sit over it to stop water dripping in it again

I will keep this thread alive by adding, once again, more updates 

Every little helps


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## Rich180 (Apr 24, 2018)

I'm having the same issue. It's literally just happened and sat in the supermarket carpark. Is there any more updates on this?


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