# #MOARwin Track Project - Getting Ready to Race!



## NickG

*#MOARwin Track Project*

*2014*

*1 - Turbo Blown -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706*

*2 - The Man Cave -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=45*

*3 - Engine Out -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=75*

*4 - Cambelt kit & Baffled Sump -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=120*

*5 - Accidental Hybrid Turbo :wink: -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=135*

*6 - Engine going back in -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=150*

*7 - She's Back to life -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=195*

*8 - 3" Downpipe & Decat -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=255*

*9 - Amatuer Wheel Refurb -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=255*

*10 - Lowering Springs -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=255*

*11 - Front Mounted Intercooler -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=270*

*12 - Wak Remap -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=315*

*13 - Eurotrip & Nürburgring -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=360*

*14 - Cheddar Gorge & Santa Pod -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=375*

*2015*

*15 - Suspension Refresh & Nangkang NS2-R -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=405*

*16 - Seats & Airbag Resistors -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=435*

*17 - Stack Gauges & Towing Eye -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=465*

*18 - FIRST TRACKDAY!!! -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=480*

*2016*

*19 - Full strip-out, Seats and Harnesses -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=630*

*20 - Blyton Park Trackday -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=735*

*2018*

*Front End Facelift-** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=960*

*Rear end rebuild -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=975*

*Snetterton Trackday -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=990*

*Front Brembos and race pads -** http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=1005*

*Race Ready... nearly! -** https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=389706&start=1040*

*Introduction*

Finally picked her up last night from Coventry, about a 80 mile journey from home, and i wont lie, i'm in love already!

The boss was a little confused when i pulled up in her this morning and not the Focus he bought me, but i couldn't help myself!!

Anyway, first thing to do is a bloody good detail tomorrow and get some pics up!

Next weekend i'll be doing a full service, have a friend who works at the local Audi dealership and shes managed to get me full OEM service parts, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, pollen filter, sump plug, sump sealant, oil pick-up filter, sealing ring and spark plugs for £79.97+VAT, dead chuffed with that... i think i'll stay friends! haha!! Hopefully the plan is to keep this updated as a build thread!


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## J•RED

Welcome aboard mate! Get some pics up!!! 

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## JorgeTTCQ

Welcome & enjoy.


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## YELLOW_TT

Nice one don't forget to do some before and after pics when you start detailing


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## Darren_d

It's a nice feeling, isn't it. I still keep walking up to the windows just to peer at the car, mostly subconsciously. 

Now get some pics up!


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## warrenstuart

Congratulations, now where's the pics??? 

Warren.


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## sussexbythesea

Well done NickG,

looking forward to seeing what you've got


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## Jackieb

Really nice feeling when you get a car you have wanted enjoy


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## TTSPORT666

Nice one Nick happy days. Look forward to your pictures. Welcome to TT ownership. 

Damien.


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## bigdodge

NickG said:


> Finally picked her up last night from Coventry, about a 80 mile journey from home, and i wont lie, i'm in love already!
> 
> The boss was a little confused when i pulled up in her this morning and not the Focus he bought me, but i couldn't help myself!!
> 
> Anyway, first thing to do is a bloody good detail tomorrow and get some pics up!
> 
> Next weekend i'll be doing a full service, have a friend who works at the local Audi dealership and shes managed to get me full OEM service parts, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, pollen filter, sump plug, sump sealant, oil pick-up filter, sealing ring and spark plugs for £79.97+VAT, dead chuffed with that... i think i'll stay friends! haha!! Hopefully the plan is to keep this updated as a build thread!


Good one mate. Sounds like more than a friend to me :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## NickG

Well what a freakin day!! Had the car approximately 3 days and today the turbo blew up, rather spectacularly! I haven't even been able to clean her yet due to last nights rain! What a PITA!!!

Never mind, i don't like to dwell on things, so after getting her recovered back home, i've started on stripping out to remove the turbo tonight. Decided to call it a night tonight but have removed a lot so far, theres oil EVERYWHERE!



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## NickG

Also if anyone can point me in the direction of a decent thread (If one exists) for turbo removal then that'd be great!!


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## Bago47

A great excuse for going hybrid


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## t'mill

Wow, sorry to hear this mate. I'm sure someone will be along with a link or helpful pointers soon. In the meantime crack open a cold one or put the kettle on and relax for what's left of the evening. Can't have been much fun under there late in the evening with an inspection lamp for company.


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## Stochman

That's bad news Nick, hope you get it sorted real soon


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## brian1978

Holy craps m8, that sucks. Well atleast it's a good reason to upgrade it. 

As for turbo removal, I'm afraid I cant help you. 
Did you get any warning as to a turbo on the way out? blue smoke on acceleration, smoking on idle etc......


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## NickG

Bago47 said:


> A great excuse for going hybrid


That is one of my thoughts, as its something i want to do, however i'd planned to do the engine internals first and i think i need to stick to that plan, turbos are much easier to replace then bent rods! And i dont have the cash to do a full rebuild quite yet, so im thinking about a refurbed one, or possibly a new one, ive got to wait until my stepdads back off holiday as hes an assistant manager at a car parts shop in west sussex so might be able to get me one at trade price!



t'mill said:


> Wow, sorry to hear this mate. I'm sure someone will be along with a link or helpful pointers soon. In the meantime crack open a cold one or put the kettle on and relax for what's left of the evening. Can't have been much fun under there late in the evening with an inspection lamp for company.





Stochman said:


> That's bad news Nick, hope you get it sorted real soon





brian1978 said:


> Holy craps m8, that sucks. Well atleast it's a good reason to upgrade it.
> 
> As for turbo removal, I'm afraid I cant help you.
> Did you get any warning as to a turbo on the way out? blue smoke on acceleration, smoking on idle etc......


Thanks guys, hopefully will get it sorted in the next couple of weeks! Wasn't to fun but at the same time, i do enjoy getting oily!

The only sign i had was a whistling noise, however it wasn't to bad when i drove it this morning, let the misses take it in the afternoon and it blew on her :roll: women drivers... so i dont know how much of a warning she got!! There was no smoke at all when she left, i had a good check over and put it down to either a boost leak, or my own inexperience of the cars noises! Next time i'll know though!!


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## toy4two

http://frankenturbo.com/web-content/ima ... nstall.pdf

The biggest tip is to DROP THE SUBFRAME it will make it much easier to get the downpipe and turbo out.

Dropping the subframe is explained here:

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files ... 88file.pdf


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## A8VCG

Gutted for you mate - I posted a Garret turbo last week for sale ...i think it was pistonheads?

Car looks lovely - looking forward to seeing the build thread. craig

edit - here you go pal. Quite near you too! http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... 52#p620646


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## jamman

Hope the change goes well and you are back in the car enjoying her.


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## Danny1

That's a shame mate, but you seem to have a positive attitude towards sorting it rather than crying about it, so that's great, im sure you will be back on the road asap! Good luck with everything


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## NickG

Managed to get under the car again tonight, think i might set up a massive tent over her when its next dry as the weather has been preventing me cracking on!

Anyway, got the coolant drained (How brilliant is that tap!!) and drained the oil, i think someone may have had an oil leak in the past...



Getting stalked by a mini... not a nice place to be!!


Is it just me or is there way too much sealant on the sump? If its pushing out like that on the inside then that could have caused a blockage and prevented feed to the turbo...potentially?


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## steveupton

Fortunately, that's not the crumbly white Audi sealant but the Dirko stuff which is much less likely to break off so you may be alright. Bit of a mess though, might be a good idea to drop the sump anyway.


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## NickG

steveupton said:


> Fortunately, that's not the crumbly white Audi sealant but the Dirko stuff which is much less likely to break off so you may be alright. Bit of a mess though, might be a good idea to drop the sump anyway.


Oh right, i figured they'd just used whatever was lying about!! yeah the sump is definitely coming off, i already have on order the oil pick up to replace as i was planning to do this before the turbo blew!


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## roddy

its a pity you cant get onto a ramp,, so so so much easier


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## NickG

roddy said:


> its a pity you cant get onto a ramp,, so so so much easier


I know, would be SO much easier, it the lowest car ive worked on and proving to be a bit of a pain already! But i'll get there! Luckily my friend owes me many hours as we have completely rebuilt the front of his Subaru over the last few months, now thats done, its my turn!!


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## steveupton

NickG said:


> steveupton said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately, that's not the crumbly white Audi sealant but the Dirko stuff which is much less likely to break off so you may be alright. Bit of a mess though, might be a good idea to drop the sump anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh right, i figured they'd just used whatever was lying about!! yeah the sump is definitely coming off, i already have on order the oil pick up to replace as i was planning to do this before the turbo blew!
Click to expand...

You will need a new gasket for the turbo oil return pipe, possibly a new O ring for the strainer to pump joint and of course new sump plug and/or washer.

If you're not familiar with the VAG 1.8T engine, watch out for the recessed bolts at the transmission end of the sump, only a 1/4" drive socket set with UJ and 10mm socket or a long ball ended 5mm allen key will remove them. Good luck and I hope you manage to sort the turbo out OK.


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## NickG

steveupton said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> steveupton said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately, that's not the crumbly white Audi sealant but the Dirko stuff which is much less likely to break off so you may be alright. Bit of a mess though, might be a good idea to drop the sump anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh right, i figured they'd just used whatever was lying about!! yeah the sump is definitely coming off, i already have on order the oil pick up to replace as i was planning to do this before the turbo blew!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You will need a new gasket for the turbo oil return pipe, possibly a new O ring for the strainer to pump joint and of course new sump plug and/or washer.
> 
> If you're not familiar with the VAG 1.8T engine, watch out for the recessed bolts at the transmission end of the sump, only a 1/4" drive socket set with UJ and 10mm socket or a long ball ended 5mm allen key will remove them. Good luck and I hope you manage to sort the turbo out OK.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up mate, i know the O-ring is on order, but didnt think about a gasket for the oil return pipe. I don't suppose you know anywhere that i could find an exploded diagram of the engine, i always find these amazingly helpful!!


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## steveupton

Can't help with an exploded diagram but this link should help:- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=304090


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## NickG

steveupton said:


> Can't help with an exploded diagram but this link should help:- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=304090


Thanks again, good little guide! I have now found an american website which offers exploded diagrams of the whole car...very useful!!

http://www.audionlineparts.com/part...iteid=215021&vehicleid=1361315&section=ENGINE


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## L33JSA

Definitely drop the sump. I also doubt thats Dirko - I believe you can only get it in beige and grey colour not black. That will be some crap sealant I'd imagine and it would appear they have used a hell of a lot of it which is never good.

Also ask yourself why have they covered the drain bolt in sealant.....before you strip it all down make sure that tightens up ok as the thread might have stripped causing a leak. In which case it might be better to replace the sump for piece of mind - they are quite cheap anyway.


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## jhoneyman

I will put a bet on that the Sump thread is shot and that sealant is there to stop leaks


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## NickG

L33JSA said:


> Definitely drop the sump. I also doubt thats Dirko - I believe you can only get it in beige and grey colour not black. That will be some crap sealant I'd imagine and it would appear they have used a hell of a lot of it which is never good.
> 
> Also ask yourself why have they covered the drain bolt in sealant.....before you strip it all down make sure that tightens up ok as the thread might have stripped causing a leak. In which case it might be better to replace the sump for piece of mind - they are quite cheap anyway.


I'll get the sump off and then give it a try, dropped the bloody plug into the oil when draining... Amateur!! If your correct then a new sump it will be!!


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## Basscube

Good luck with this.

My turbo blew a couple of months ago know what it's like. :x


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## NickG

Basscube said:


> Good luck with this.
> 
> My turbo blew a couple of months ago know what it's like. :x


Cheers Pal, Did you replace your yourself?


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## Shinigami

hey Nick,

Since my turbo is on its way to go as well I decided this morning to have a look on ebay and managed to buy a genuine Audi (2nd hand) with the same code as mine for just £260 (delivery included) and this one has covered just 58k miles!

These's a chap in derby who sells a turbo from a 2004 leon cupra r (bam engine like ours) for £375.

The car has covered just 75k miles and he includes a lot of other parts (basically it's for someone who needs to get a K04 conversion) and this is the link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181208669226? ... _206wt_722

Try to give him a call...he accepts offers as well!

Otherwise, there is a former member, James, who still is trying to sell is genuine K04 which covered less than 6k miles for £580 but he was selling it on here at £550.

If you're interested contact him and explain to him your situation and I'm pretty sure you could get away with a good deal!

Here's his link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271271857900? ... _140wt_959

All the best mate :wink:


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## NickG

Last night involved many naughty words due to extremely corroded nuts from the Downpipe to the Cat... so this morning i bought this...



I also noticed i needed a new socket for the manifold bolts...



The tool collection is getting larger and the hands are getting bloodier!! oh, and the wallet significantly lighter :lol:


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## NickG

Also any views on this TIP from SFS;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390658252762?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Seemed a decent price and ive used SFS before, basically does anyone know a cheaper alternative of equivalent standard?!


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## jhoneyman

word of warning...... The turbo to Manifold bolts (3) are a nightmare to get out.
Those bolt removers wont work (I bought and failed) with the small inverted Torx heads. You may need to weld a bolt onto them.
Incidentally the new bolts from Audi have larger heads.

Hope you get lucky and get them all out


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## L33JSA

NickG said:


> I also noticed i needed a new socket for the manifold bolts...


Manifold bolts?

Exhaust manifold.....they are 12mm (spanner sized) locking nut
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... /ES259166/

Manifold to turbo are E12 I think - E16 is waaaay too big
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... ES2663443/


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## NickG

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed i needed a new socket for the manifold bolts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Manifold bolts?
> 
> Exhaust manifold.....they are 12mm (spanner sized) locking nut
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... /ES259166/
> 
> Manifold to turbo are E12 I think - E16 is waaaay too big
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... ES2663443/
Click to expand...

Manifold to turbo sorry, and i went E16 as thats what this guy had in the thread...

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=330416&p=2580483#p2580483

Do you reackon this is wrong then?


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## jhoneyman

I have the exact size in my car along with 1 old bolt so can check later after work for you.
The other 2 as well as a new one are still on the car. I need to get a welder to get the old and now stripped ones off.


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## kasandrich

Sorry to hear you have Turbo trouble so early into ownership.

Hope you get it sorted soon.


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## NickG

jhoneyman said:


> I have the exact size in my car along with 1 old bolt so can check later after work for you.
> The other 2 as well as a new one are still on the car. I need to get a welder to get the old and now stripped ones off.


Thanks pal! Hopefully i dont have the same issue, although i inevitably will!! :roll:


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## jhoneyman

Will have the info around 5pm today.

I would spray those bolts the night before and an hour before you attempt to get them out.
Apply pressure down on the bolt as much as possible and then attempt to undo them.


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## Mondo

NickG said:


> Also any views on this TIP from SFS;
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390658252762?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> Seemed a decent price and ive used SFS before, basically does anyone know a cheaper alternative of equivalent standard?!


I got this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SFS-Silicone- ... 51b0af2aba

Although from calling SFS directly it cost £2.70 more. :? Whatever; if you're gonna swap the TIP, do it a) once, and b) properly.  Unlike me; I'll be on my 5th different TIP when I get this one fitted.


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## L33JSA

NickG said:


> Manifold to turbo sorry, and i went E16 as thats what this guy had in the thread...
> 
> http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=330416&p=2580483#p2580483
> 
> Do you reackon this is wrong then?


Hmmmm....I think the picture is correct where it shows E14 - unless they've changed the new bolts to E16. But even in the picture the 2 bolt heads look to be different sizes.

Defo E14.....the old ones are at least..
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... urbo+bolts


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## NickG

Mondo said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also any views on this TIP from SFS;
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390658252762?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> Seemed a decent price and ive used SFS before, basically does anyone know a cheaper alternative of equivalent standard?!
> 
> 
> 
> I got this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SFS-Silicone- ... 51b0af2aba
> 
> Although from calling SFS directly it cost £2.70 more. :? Whatever; if you're gonna swap the TIP, do it a) once, and b) properly.  Unlike me; I'll be on my 5th different TIP when I get this one fitted.
Click to expand...

I see, so looking at the pic is the one you ordered 3" all the way down to turbo where-as the one i linked reduced down after the first bend?



L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Manifold to turbo sorry, and i went E16 as thats what this guy had in the thread...
> 
> http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=330416&p=2580483#p2580483
> 
> Do you reackon this is wrong then?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm....I think the picture is correct where it shows E14 - unless they've changed the new bolts to E16. But even in the picture the 2 bolt heads look to be different sizes.
> 
> Defo E14.....the old ones are at least..
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... urbo+bolts
Click to expand...

I'll wait to see what Jhoneyman comes back with then, cheers for the help guys!


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## barb

Get the badger 5 tip off eBay by far the best flowing one. V2.2 is the best flowing but v3 is the best value for money

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## NickG

barb said:


> Get the badger 5 tip off eBay by far the best flowing one. V2.2 is the best flowing but v3 is the best value for money
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Was looking at them, the V3 obviously matches the SFS one for price, whats the metal ring for with the V2.2?


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## Shinigami

NickG said:


> barb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Get the badger 5 tip off eBay by far the best flowing one. V2.2 is the best flowing but v3 is the best value for money
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
> 
> 
> 
> Was looking at them, the V3 obviously matches the SFS one for price, whats the metal ring for with the V2.2?
Click to expand...

I think you can get the V3 with the billet as well but it costs much more and I'm not sure it's totally necessary :roll:


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## NickG

Shinigami said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> barb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Get the badger 5 tip off eBay by far the best flowing one. V2.2 is the best flowing but v3 is the best value for money
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
> 
> 
> 
> Was looking at them, the V3 obviously matches the SFS one for price, whats the metal ring for with the V2.2?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you can get the V3 with the billet as well but it costs much more and I'm not sure it's totally necessary :roll:
Click to expand...

Thats the only difference i can see, think i'll go for the V3!


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## NickG

Well, tonight i completely sealed the car...


AND TURNED IT INTO A MAN CAVE!!! :lol: Not a terrible set up, i can still stand-up fully and the bonnet is up fully so hopefully this will keep out the lovely weather we have, and help me crack on!

Also used my new Torx socket, after all that my turbo to manifold bolts were E16... at last a bit of luck! :lol:

With a long extension and a breaker bar they werent to hard to undo, after the initial release, and all cam out very easily!

The same cannot be said for the downpipe to cat bolts, these are being such a pain in the arse, tried the rounded nut remover tool, thats not working, tried a nut splitter, thats not working, any new ideas are much appreciated!


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## roddy

i cant help with the bolts,, unless you can take the whole thing off and use some heat / weld.. but you are a brave man there, glad i am not working ootside tonite ( love the tent  ), good luck


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## Avus_TT

NickG said:


> Well, tonight i completely sealed the car...
> 
> 
> AND TURNED IT INTO A MAN CAVE!!! :lol: Not a terrible set up, i can still stand-up fully and the bonnet is up fully so hopefully this will keep out the lovely weather we have, and help me crack on!
> 
> Also used my new Torx socket, after all that my turbo to manifold bolts were E16... at last a bit of luck! :lol:
> 
> With a long extension and a breaker bar they werent to hard to undo, after the initial release, and all cam out very easily!
> 
> The same cannot be said for the downpipe to cat bolts, these are being such a pain in the arse, tried the rounded nut remover tool, thats not working, tried a nut splitter, thats not working, any new ideas are much appreciated!


Genius. 8)


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## NickG

roddy said:


> i cant help with the bolts,, unless you can take the whole thing off and use some heat / weld.. but you are a brave man there, glad i am not working ootside tonite ( love the tent  ), good luck


I've called it a night tonight, brave, no...stupid... Most definitely!! :lol:


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## roddy

not at all matey,, got to be done.. :wink:


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## Jay-225

That tent is Brilliant :lol:

Have you attempted to remove the downpipe fron the turbo yet ? let me know how you get on if so as i need to do mine and when i last attempted it i struggled like hell for any movement on the nuts holding it on :roll: [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## steveupton

Haven't done this job so don't know what the clearance, or lack of, is but can you get a dremel in there? If so cut 2/3 - 3/4 way through the nut wall then a chisel and lump hammer to open up the split.


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## NickG

Jay-225 said:


> That tent is Brilliant :lol:
> 
> Have you attempted to remove the downpipe fron the turbo yet ? let me know how you get on if so as i need to do mine and when i last attempted it i struggled like hell for any movement on the nuts holding it on :roll: [smiley=bigcry.gif]


I've not yet as i'm still trying to remove the cat nuts! When i do i'll let you know matey!



steveupton said:


> Haven't done this job so don't know what the clearance, or lack of, is but can you get a dremel in there? If so cut 2/3 - 3/4 way through the nut wall then a chisel and lump hammer to open up the split.


4 out of the 6 i could do that, good shout, the other 2 are just too crowded out though! [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## uv101

NickG said:


> I've not yet as i'm still trying to remove the cat nuts! When i do i'll let you know matey!


Shit!!! I'd see the vet mate......i think its easier on the cat!!!!


----------



## NickG

uv101 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've not yet as i'm still trying to remove the cat nuts! When i do i'll let you know matey!
> 
> 
> 
> Shit!!! I'd see the vet mate......i think its easier on the cat!!!!
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## ©hatterBox

First of all, sorry to hear about the turbo trouble so early into ownership but secondly fair play to you getting stuck into the car in this weather & in the evenings! I know I'd still be cursing at the thing every time I looked at it :lol:

Hope things work out for you mate


----------



## brian1978

Love the tent buddy. Genius idea I was thinking gazebo for working in the rain, but the tent looks cozy


----------



## steveupton

Glad to see you haven't lost your sense of humour! Anyway back to the cats' nuts (couldn't resist), if you can get 4 off, you should be able to wiggle the cat and break the rust seal on the other 2 nuts. Hopefully there isn't a vet looking at this and I am a cat lover by the way.


----------



## uv101

©hatterBox said:


> First of all, sorry to hear about the turbo trouble so early into ownership but secondly fair play to you getting stuck into the car in this weather & in the evenings! I know I'd still be cursing at the thing every time I looked at it :lol:
> 
> Hope things work out for you mate


+1 spot on


----------



## brian1978

steveupton said:


> Glad to see you haven't lost your sense of humour! Anyway back to the cats' nuts (couldn't resist), if you can get 4 off, you should be able to wiggle the cat and break the rust seal on the other 2 nuts. Hopefully there isn't a vet looking at this and I am a cat lover by the way.


Yea I love cats too, but I couldn't eat a whole one. :twisted:

Jk, I own 2 of them


----------



## J•RED

I think there's only one option and that's to go new 3" down pipe and a sports cat. You know you want to :lol: 

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## NickG

J•RED said:


> I think there's only one option and that's to go new 3" down pipe and a sports cat. You know you want to :lol:
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


I know i WANT to, i just also know i can't quite afford it yet! Cobra quoted a full turbo back system for £740 inc. fitting... not sure they're gunna want to fit it in my tent, and she aint going anywhere of her own steam right now!! :lol:

Just to confirm, no cats have been harmed during the making of this thread :wink:


----------



## barb

The relentless 3" downpipe and Decat is 225 delivered just bought one myself that's going on this week

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## NickG

barb said:


> The relentless 3" downpipe and Decat is 225 delivered just bought one myself that's going on this week
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Wheres that from mate? Might check it out!


----------



## jhoneyman

Turbo to manifold inverse torx bolts are E14 (new bolts)


----------



## Ian_W

Love the workshop tent :lol:


----------



## NickG

Well a long day under the car has come to an end!! Finally got the exhaust off with a dremel as suggested, worked a treat, I have no idea why they used such ridiculously small nuts for an exhaust system anyway!! I've had front bumper off too, both intercoolers are out, both filled with oil, I'm gunna have a lot of cleaning to do!!

Working in the man tent today was better then the storms we had, but not ideal. I have however almost been kindly gifted indefinite use of a garage! This means plans may change and the project may start a little sooner! We've now decided that rather than mess about trying to remove the turbo and manifold (crazily tight and difficult to work with) were going to make use of my engine crane and pull the engine out, as it gives me the opportunity to tidy everything up around that anyway!

Oil has definitely reached the inlet manifold I discovered today, which has slightly worried me, I'm just hoping no turbo part made it that far, you would hope that the two intercoolers would between them catch anything like that! :?

Not gunna be doing anything with her until next week now, except beginning to stockpile parts, gunna need a lot of new bolts etc as I can't see the point in reusing half worn ones (let's do the job properly for once!)


----------



## NickG

Oh and the kind words and banter are much appreciated, definitely provide a bit of motivation, cheers guys! 8)


----------



## roddy

top man


----------



## Lucky13

Interesting stuff! I have read the whole thread but it was a few days ago so if you did state earlier could you remind me on what your plans are for replacing the turbo? I just went to get a remap and the turbo wouldnt make requested boost. I was told it also whistled ( i thought this was normal but was told the noise mine was making is probably not) so is beginning to go but could last ages as its making stock power well enough but cant take much more!

Either way i need to get researching as to how to replace it if it does go! I have RAC silver cover or whatever so i would hope this may even cover it but i know the terms and conditions are litterally ridiculous as to what they dont include but i think it would be fair if it did fail for them to do this!


----------



## Shinigami

Lucky13 said:


> Interesting stuff! I have read the whole thread but it was a few days ago so if you did state earlier could you remind me on what your plans are for replacing the turbo? I just went to get a remap and the turbo wouldnt make requested boost. I was told it also whistled ( i thought this was normal but was told the noise mine was making is probably not) so is beginning to go but could last ages as its making stock power well enough but cant take much more!
> 
> Either way i need to get researching as to how to replace it if it does go! I have RAC silver cover or whatever so i would hope this may even cover it but i know the terms and conditions are litterally ridiculous as to what they dont include but i think it would be fair if it did fail for them to do this!


If it's not your daily drive the best option is to take the turbo off the car, have it remanufactured and fit it back  I guess it would take about a week to do everything. Otherwise, you'll need to find a good second hand one or buy a new one and in a couple of days you'd be back on the road :roll:


----------



## NickG

I've not decided whether to get a new turbo, get this one re-manufactured or go Hybrid K04 yet. If i can sort the misses out with a new car then i can keep the TT off the road for a few months, in which case i'll potentially go hybrid turbo route, as it was in my plans to this anyway!

It's not the easiest job in the world to do, and if its a daily driver that you need back ASAP i would suggest take it to a garage, if its a weekend toy then there's no harm doing it yourself, just make a massive checklist as you go through, take plenty of photos, keep a new parts list for anything you find that needs replacing while your there and most importantly... don't do it in a tent!! :lol:

You'll also 100% need a friend with plenty of time to help, and a ridiculously huge box of tools!


----------



## barb

The downpipe I got off there facebook page k04 relentless parts I think it is. There is a lad on there who is a distributor of the parts as there american mine is getting fitted Friday

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## NickG

barb said:


> The downpipe I got off there facebook page k04 relentless parts I think it is. There is a lad on there who is a distributor of the parts as there american mine is getting fitted Friday
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Awesome, how much did you pay for that? Let me know how it goes, and how the car feels after mate!


----------



## NickG

She's being towed sunday to a real garage, with a door... and lights... and heat!  

Our first job will then be removing the engine completely! I've decided this is going to be beneficial, as i can clean everything up a lot easier, and she really does need a good clean!! I'm just about to buy an engine stand, probably a Sealey ES450... has anyone used an engine stand on here, and if so how hard was it to get the lump mounted? Did you need any extra mounting bits and pieces?

Also started to de-baffle the charge pipe the other night...



Until my not so "Faithful" chisel let me down, and i decided it was far to noisy to be doing in a residential area!! :lol:


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> I'm just about to buy an engine stand, probably a Sealey ES450... has anyone used an engine stand on here, and if so how hard was it to get the lump mounted? Did you need any extra mounting bits and pieces?


Its very easy to mount.

However you need to remove the clutch and flywheel first.

You then position the brackets from the stand so you can use bolts through the very top 2 bell housing holes on the block, and then position the other 2 brackets in the holes just above where the sump mounts - i.e at the bottom corners of the actual block - you'll need 2 bolts and 2 nuts to mount through these holes.

Have a look at Tonksy's thread for pics of his engine on my stand....you might be able to see where I mean.


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just about to buy an engine stand, probably a Sealey ES450... has anyone used an engine stand on here, and if so how hard was it to get the lump mounted? Did you need any extra mounting bits and pieces?
> 
> 
> 
> Its very easy to mount.
> 
> However you need to remove the clutch and flywheel first.
> 
> You then position the brackets from the stand so you can use bolts through the very top 2 bell housing holes on the block, and then position the other 2 brackets in the holes just above where the sump mounts - i.e at the bottom corners of the actual block - you'll need 2 bolts and 2 nuts to mount through these holes.
> 
> Have a look at Tonksy's thread for pics of his engine on my stand....you might be able to see where I mean.
Click to expand...

Top man, thanks! I'll have a look and see what i can find!


----------



## roddy

HUH ,,, pussy [smiley=baby.gif]


----------



## barb

NickG said:


> barb said:
> 
> 
> 
> The downpipe I got off there facebook page k04 relentless parts I think it is. There is a lad on there who is a distributor of the parts as there american mine is getting fitted Friday
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, how much did you pay for that? Let me know how it goes, and how the car feels after mate!
Click to expand...

Picking the car up tomorrow so will do, also they are taking pics of the removal without dropping subframe not that it affects you now the engine is out. Price was £225 delivered

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## NickG

Well she's been moved to a garage, and the engine is almost out! Had some fun de-gassing the air-con the completely legal way too...


Found a use for the WWII Gas mask! :lol:

Just gotta find the final connectors on the wiring loom and disconnect the prop shaft and shes ready to come out!


----------



## steveupton

NickG said:


> Well she's been moved to a garage, and the engine is almost out! Had some fun de-gassing the air-con the completely legal way too...
> 
> 
> Found a use for the WWII Gas mask! :lol:
> 
> Just gotta find the final connectors on the wiring loom and disconnect the prop shaft and shes ready to come out!


Thought only drivers of old Skodas wore them?


----------



## NickG

steveupton said:


> Thought only drivers of old Skodas wore them?


 :lol: :lol: multi-purpose mate!!


----------



## NickG

Shes freeeeee!!! At last! Had issues with the propshaft not turning... turned out i am an idiot, it wouldnt turn because i'd already disconnected the gear linkages and must have left her in gear! Once that was all re-connected it turned no problem! :lol:




And a quick peek into the turbo revealed this...



I would say that it might be a little bit knackered! :lol:

So next on the agenda while its out;

Remove turbo and send to Midland turbo for remanufacture
Remove Secondary air pump and blank off
Remove air con compressor and change auxiliary belt
Changing timing belt & water pump (I guess it makes sense while access is easy)
Remove sump and change pick-up, clean all pipework up etc. (May buy the forge baffled sump from Awesome if i can stretch the pennies)
Change the thermostat as i think there was an issue so may aswell do it while its easy
Change clutch (140k and dont think its been done so again may aswell)
-----> Hoping i dont have to change flywheel at the same time but if i do then thats life (And credit card usage!)
New SFS coolant hoses, Cam cover breather and 3" TIP
and finally change the steering rack bush to a powerflex and powerflex front engine mount dogbone
Might also remove the rocker cover to have a peek inside and give it a few coats of paint.

Quite a list, but can anyone think of anything else worth doing whilst there?

Also massive thanks to L33JSA for all the advice and help given so far, and everyone else who has helped!


----------



## roddy

looks like you gonna be busy,, but all better done while engine is out,,,


----------



## NickG

Certainly am!! Gunna have to give the bank account a bashing!! :lol:


----------



## roddy

NickG said:


> Certainly am!! Gunna have to give the bank account a bashing!! :lol:


c'mon now,, a bit of overtime will see all that sored,,,, just think what you are saving on labour costs  :lol:


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Certainly am!! Gunna have to give the bank account a bashing!! :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> c'mon now,, a bit of overtime will see all that sored,,,, just think what you are saving on labour costs  :lol:
Click to expand...

Overtime? Whats that? :lol: I'm just in the process of deciding which Kidney i can do without :roll:


----------



## roddy

better wait until you have finished before you start selling body parts !!


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> better wait until you have finished before you start selling body parts !!


Hahaha I'll give it a week! :lol:


----------



## NJW

Good work mate, keep it up! Wish I had the resources to do this kind of thing!


----------



## NickG

NJW said:


> Good work mate, keep it up! Wish I had the resources to do this kind of thing!


Thanks pal, im lucky i have a mate who has a hell of a lot of equipment from when we rebuilt his subaru! :wink:

Started cleaning up the engine bay today, what a mess! Looking a lot better already though, and i only spent an hour.. my prediction? another 2 hours!!

Gotta print of the threads for the N249 delete and SAI pump as i want remove these both while the engine is out!


----------



## NickG

Took the gearbox and transfer box off last night, not to bad to do, was expecting it to be alot harder to split but no problem at all!

Got the clutch off but need to buy a new longer M12 spline bit to remove the flywheel. Not sure where to look as i also could get the 1/2" M12 socket on the bolts to remove the transfer box from the gearbox as it was too fat. :? Any ideas appreciated!



I've cleaned it up a bit with some clutch and brake cleaner and tried to get a photo of the flywheel to get some advice on whether this needs replacing too... any takers?

Another question... whats the best transmission fluid to fill the box back up with, as this was drained yesterday as well?


----------



## roddy

Grind down the sides of the 12mm,,,,,, if it is a qual one like Snap ON eg then nip down halfrauds an buy a cheapie


----------



## L33JSA

Get one of these...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... SRC-spline

I've had this set for years and it's been perfect.

With regards to the flywheel - the face of it doesnt look too good but it's also about how much side to side play is in aswell.

I'd always play it safe....whilst it's apart replace it - it might be fine now but you never know in 10k later - saves you further jobs later on.

Gearbox oil - OE stuff is just fine.


----------



## NickG

Thanks once again mate!!

I was thinking it might need to be a replacement jobby for piece of mind, more bills! :lol:

I'll give my contact at Audi a call and add that to the list then, all i could find on here was people saying it doesnt need replacing its a lifetime oil but hopefully she'll be able to get the correct OE spec one!

Cheers!


----------



## sexytt

Congrats and enjoy her. I keep drooling every time i look at my new baby  [smiley=baby.gif]


----------



## JDUB 20V

I literally have just done this to mine  For your Turbo rebuild get in contact with Dan @ Beach Buggy Turbos, he specialises in these and will cost less than Midland VW. Can potentially discuss upgrade options with Dan too


----------



## Shinigami

JDUB 20V said:


> I literally have just done this to mine  For your Turbo rebuild get in contact with Dan @ Beach Buggy Turbos, he specialises in these and will cost less than Midland VW. Can potentially discuss upgrade options with Dan too


Midland VW don't do turbos anyway... :roll:


----------



## JDUB 20V

/\ I meant Midland Turbo :roll:


----------



## FreeRideSkier

I bought a stage 3 hybrid from Turbo Dynamics for mine..

http://www.hybridturbos.com/hybrid-...t-hybrid-turbos/audi-tt-hybrid-turbochargers/


----------



## NickG

I did have my eye on a hybrid but the budget wont stretch that far just yet! I want to get her running smoothly and then handling well before i start increasing the power!


----------



## Kyle18uk

Was looking around a friends S3 yesterday which he has just put a forged engine and hybrid turbo on

He has removed his aircon compressor and lines etc and then used the aircon button to run an extra manual run fan on the radiator to help cooling

Belt he used was 6PK1130


----------



## NickG

Thanks pal, i think the one i was looking at was a 6PK1125 so i should think with the tensioner they are both about right! Cheers!


----------



## JDUB 20V

NickG said:


> I did have my eye on a hybrid but the budget wont stretch that far just yet! I want to get her running smoothly and then handling well before i start increasing the power!


Trust me.. Have a word with Dan @ Beach Buggy Turbo, he recently built a KO4 Hybrid for me


----------



## CRM

Wow - just to say respect to taking this on, and i cant believe just how positive you are about it all when most would be - well not as calm and collected as you.
I hope this turns out well for you fella.


----------



## NickG

CRM said:


> Wow - just to say respect to taking this on, and i cant believe just how positive you are about it all when most would be - well not as calm and collected as you.
> I hope this turns out well for you fella.


Thanks pal, as its not my main car i havent felt the need to panic, just crack on and get it done so i can enjoy the thing!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

My new engine stand arrived last week, i ordered a Sealey ES450 but was delivered a Rockwood 1000...



I wasn't too happy, and after a bit of research i found this on the same company's website for a bit cheaper... long story short, they a refunding me the difference between the two and i will gives this stand a go, hopefully it will be up to the task!

Does anyone (More than likely L33JSA) know what size nuts and/or bolts are required to mount the thing? I know i've been told to use the upper and lower two gearbox holes, just not sure what fixings are needed!

Just about to order a load of bits from Awesome which should get me going again on the build!


----------



## L33JSA

That stand will be fine - it's what I use.

2 Top Fittings are just bolts, bottom ones you need nuts too

M12 x 85mm ish (measure the depth they are going through then add 15mm to it)

I can measure mine next time I'm down my place.


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> That stand will be fine - it's what I use.
> 
> 2 Top Fittings are just bolts, bottom ones you need nuts too
> 
> M12 x 85mm ish (measure the depth they are going through then add 15mm to it)
> 
> I can measure mine next time I'm down my place.


Thats good to know then, nothing like a bit of money back i guess, definitely helps!

Cheers for that, i'm gunna try a local auto store and hope they have something, doesn't matter if they are a bit longer i guess!


----------



## sexytt

Sorry u got probs. How annoyed r u? She will live, someone here must have the technology / advise u need. Good luck let us know how u get on with her.  xxx


----------



## Kyle18uk

NickG said:


> L33JSA said:
> 
> 
> 
> That stand will be fine - it's what I use.
> 
> 2 Top Fittings are just bolts, bottom ones you need nuts too
> 
> M12 x 85mm ish (measure the depth they are going through then add 15mm to it)
> 
> I can measure mine next time I'm down my place.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats good to know then, nothing like a bit of money back i guess, definitely helps!
> 
> Cheers for that, i'm gunna try a local auto store and hope they have something, doesn't matter if they are a bit longer i guess!
Click to expand...

I went to Wickes or B&Q and got some threaded bar, that way you can cut it to the right length etc


----------



## NickG

Well the engine has now been mounted and as Lee suggested the stand is absolutely fine, so anyone thinking of investing in a sealey engine stand, save yourself a bit of money and find a rockwood one! :lol:

Stripped a lot of bits down, and began cleaning stuff up, the thing is COVERED in oily gunk, very thick, which i think could be owing to a breather hose which was very split!

I have ordered a lot of new silicone hoses from SFS so lots of replacements to install which will hopefully stop most of this muck from re-occurring!

I've taken the rocker cover off as i think the gasket was leaking a bit into the coil pack area as there was some oil in there, whilst this is off i'm considering painting the rocker cover to tidy her up a bit.

So parts that have arrived or are on the way are;

K&N S2000 Cone	
Awesome Gti Full Timing Belt Kit	
Forge Secondry Air system blank plate	
LUK Clutch & Flywheel	
Forge Baffled Sump	
Powerflex Steering Rack Mount Bush	
Powerflex Engine Mount Dog Bone bushes
K04 Turbo	from Awesome Gti
1120 Auxiliary Belt
5l Oil from Audi
Oil Filter from Audi
Oil pick-up
Powersteering fluid
Turbo Oil return pipe gasket 
Spark Plugs
Sump Sealant
Turbo to manifold gasket	
Turbo to downpipe gasket	
Intake Manifold gasket	
Rocker cover gasket	
3" TIP - SFS
Cam cover breather - SFS
Coolant Hoses - SFS
Brake servo hose - SFS
N75 Hose - SFS
Forge Intake breather pipe	
Gearbox cover plate
3l Transmission fluid
Cat-Downpipe gaskets

A grand total of.... £1600!!!  

Once all of that lot is here i can get cracking at putting her back together!!


----------



## L33JSA

Some other things to think about whilst it's all out...

Rear Crankcase Oil Seal
Gearbox Input Shaft Seal
Front Crank & Camseals
Clutch Slave Cylinder


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> Some other things to think about whilst it's all out...
> 
> Rear Crankcase Oil Seal
> Gearbox Input Shaft Seal
> Front Crank & Camseals
> Clutch Slave Cylinder


Cool, cheers bud!

I've got the slave cyclinder with the clutch kit but ill order the seals from Audi.

Are the seals all easy enough to change?


----------



## L33JSA

Hardest one to remove is the front crank seal. Rear crank one just unbolts. Camseals you can lift the front cam caps up slightly which makes removing them a piece of cake.

Make sure you don't push the front crank and cam ones in too far - they need to be more or less flush - use a large socket to tap them in with. Wipe some grease around the seals before fitting to aid installation.

Rear crank seal you'll get a plastic disc to help with fitting - this should be pretty self explanatory when you come to fit it.


----------



## NickG

I will get them ordered and give them a go then! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Had a very productive day today! 

Got the SAI completely blanked off now and started cleaning the engine up as much as possible. I've found what i believe to be the cause of all the terrible gunk in the engine bay...




So i've ordered a silicone replacement from eBay (Can't see these anywhere else!) which i hope will fit and stop a re-occurrence! We also found the probable cause for the turbo failure, the oil feed line was completely clogged up, all around the inside of the banjo connector was solid with crap, couldn't even see the hole for the oil feed! Given that a very good clean-up and blown air through it and i'm happy its much cleaner now!

Also changed the cambelt, waterpump and thermostat, my first cambelt change!!  Its a worrying job to do as you obviously have to make sure the engine is still timed correctly, but ive checked, double checked and i'm 99.99% confident its just as it was before, so hopefully it all will come good on re-installation! Favorite part of the job... removing the pin from the tensioner and jumping for cover from the forthcoming explosion... only to realise its not a grenade :? haha



Also changed the oil pick-up and fitted the new Forge Baffled sump (Gotta have some fun parts!)



Nearly Ready to fit all of these too...   



Got a brilliant deal for SFS hoses and its a great time to do them while the engine is out,

Really happy with progress this weekend, shouldn't be much longer until she's back with us!

Next jobs;

Intake manifold and turbo back on and connected-up
Fitting various coolant hoses and air hoses etc.
Fitting new powerflex steering rack and dogmount bushes

Then there wont be long until shes ready to go in!


----------



## tonksy26

Nick, not sure if you've seen or commented in my progress thread but have a good read up through it as lee has done a fantastic write up on the rebuild he did for me. Some great detail in there aswell.


----------



## NickG

tonksy26 said:


> Nick, not sure if you've seen or commented in my progress thread but have a good read up through it as lee has done a fantastic write up on the rebuild he did for me. Some great detail in there aswell.


Thanks pal, i believe your thread is the one i use as my TT rebuild bible!! :lol:

How are you finding her now you have her back?


----------



## tonksy26

NickG said:


> tonksy26 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nick, not sure if you've seen or commented in my progress thread but have a good read up through it as lee has done a fantastic write up on the rebuild he did for me. Some great detail in there aswell.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks pal, i believe your thread is the one i use as my TT rebuild bible!! :lol:
> 
> How are you finding her now you have her back?
Click to expand...

Haha good stuff. Nice to see lee's effort helping others and not just all for my benefit. Running a dream. Relying on the sale of a couple of sets of wheels and it should be remap time so I can really feel the benefit of all the work. Feel like it's only running around standard power atm. Not missed a beat since I got her back though.


----------



## steveupton

Mightily impressed with what you're doing, you've got guts to take this on.

Don't want to be a wet blanket but with the turbo oil feed badly gunked up, might be indicative of low oil pressure so would suggest fitting a new oil pump.


----------



## L33JSA

I thought my ears were burning lol 

With regards to the oil feed pipe.....there shouldn't be any gunk at all in there. That indicates poor servicing. What condition is the cylinder head in?

Oh & don't mess around just blowing the oil feed pipe through......replace it with a completely new pipe....your turbo will thank you for it.

Good to see you're making progress with it though :wink:


----------



## NickG

Thats a PITA then because i was relatively happy that the service history was pretty comprehensive, a stamp doesn't always mean it been done though hey!

Ahhh okay then, suppose i've gone this far, no point being a tight arse now only for it to get clogged again in a few months!

I cant find any new ones on eBay or google search so i guess its gunna be another trip to Audi, anyone have a rough idea of cost so i can play it cool in front of them when the tell me? ".....£438? Yeaaaah i was expecting that Mr. Audi parts man, what else can you throw at me?!"


----------



## Jay-225

Part number for the oil feed pipe is : *06A 145 778 P* will cost around the *£120 *mark, will also need 4 new washers/O-rings which are part number : *N 013 812 8* cost 50p each, maybe new banjo bolts as well ? 2 of them and part number is : *WHT 000 223* cost about £4 each.

Excellent work btw and should give you many miles of trouble free motoring


----------



## steveupton

NickG said:


> Thats a PITA then because i was relatively happy that the service history was pretty comprehensive, a stamp doesn't always mean it been done though hey!
> 
> Ahhh okay then, suppose i've gone this far, no point being a tight arse now only for it to get clogged again in a few months!
> 
> I cant find any new ones on eBay or google search so i guess its gunna be another trip to Audi, anyone have a rough idea of cost so i can play it cool in front of them when the tell me? ".....£438? Yeaaaah i was expecting that Mr. Audi parts man, what else can you throw at me?!"


New oil pump is about £100. Not wishing to go against L33JSA but if thoroughly cleaned and flushed, I would have thought the feed pipe should be ok.


----------



## NickG

Cool, cheers guys, I'll give them a call tomorrow and get stuff added to the order!!


----------



## barb

Are you fitting a 3" downpipe? If you plan to do one soon I strongly recommend doing it whilst the engine is out it's a s#@t job to do otherwise

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


----------



## NickG

barb said:


> Are you fitting a 3" downpipe? If you plan to do one soon I strongly recommend doing it whilst the engine is out it's a s#@t job to do otherwise
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


Not for a long while now, cheers anyway! Gunna go back to the original plan once she's up and running and start on the suspension etc.


----------



## NickG

Well its been a long time since an update, mainly due to waiting for parts and also having a hectic month of November, but finally spent some more time on her sunday!

As recommended i replaced the oil feed line, i found a braided one which was far more reasonably priced than the OEM one and will essentially do the same job! Installed this with new banjo bolts and washers and also changed the oil filter bracket as i had a suspicion mine had been cross threaded whilst i was messing around with it (My fault/lack of skill, but these things happen, and i sourced a used one for £8 so not the end of the world) this was cleaned up and i'm happy with her now.

Turbo has been mounted and hooked up, took a little bit of thinking with the N249 & SAI delete done, but i'm relatively confident this is all correctly plumbed in now! After receiving a poor re-manufactured turbo initially (Which was sent back and promptly refunded) i decided to send my Turbo off for rebuild with Dan at Beachbuggy Turbos. Excellent service can't comment on the performance yet for obvious reasons however the rebuilt turbo is looking very good if nothing else! I now have a semi-hybrid turbo with a billet compressor wheel and a RS6 turbine wheel. This will obviously require mapping, so having messaged WAK i will probably get the car down to him with current modifications for mapping and then when (One day) i sort out the downpipe, exhaust and FMIC i will take her back down for a map tweek.

Also fitted a number of replacement hoses for the coolant system which are looking... *Blue?!* :lol:

Just waiting for a new pipe for the breather system into the oil filter bracket as part of the old one disintegrated when removed! Once this is here, we'll get the breather system connected back up and then there shouldn't be much else needed before we lift the engine back off the stand and install the clutch and flywheel. Torque specs for this would be appreciated if any one has them to hand! 

I've also got to give the intercoolers a good clean through as i'm sure there will be plenty of oil left in them, does anyone have a decent method for doing this?

No pics atm unfortunately, but i will get some when im next in the garage!


----------



## jhoneyman

i enjoy reading this thread.. Keep up the good work


----------



## NickG

jhoneyman said:


> i enjoy reading this thread.. Keep up the good work


Thanks pal, we shall keep trying, will be nice to one day drive her!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Also forgot to mention we've sprayed the charge pipe in wrinkle black finish after de-baffling it! Saw one hanging up at the TT shop when i popped there and liked the look of it so my pal decided to buy the paint so we could do it!


----------



## L33JSA

Clutch cover - 15ftlb
Flywheel - 44ftlb + 1/4turn

Make sure you get new bolts for each.

Not sure what this 'semi-hybrid' is all about - it's either a hybrid or it isnt lol

Good to hear it's progressing anyway.


----------



## NickG

Cheers Lee, i think they did come with new bolts so should be good there!

Haha didn't think it qualifies as a full on Hybrid, but i suppose as its not a standard K04 then it technically is, wooo hoo! :lol:

Yeah getting there slowly, hopefully wont be too long now!


----------



## s3tt

L33JSA said:


> Clutch cover - 15ftlb
> Flywheel - 44ftlb + 1/4turn
> 
> Make sure you get new bolts for each.
> 
> Not sure what this 'semi-hybrid' is all about - it's either a hybrid or it isnt lol
> 
> Good to hear it's progressing anyway.


Nicks, called it the semi-hybrid!

It's my entry level hybrid..baby hybrid... Was aimed at the 300-310 bhp area, but on testing made 340bhp so it's definitely a hybrid!


----------



## NickG

Haha sorry Dan, i'll will refer to it as a Hybrid from now on!


----------



## NickG

More progress has been made tonight than in the last two weeks!

After the issues with the shattered breather pipe, sheared bolt for the hydraulic release bearing, and inability to remove a transfer box FINALLY the gearbox and transfer box are mounted to the block and shes almost ready to go back in!

Next job will be to drill out the studs for the cats. We had to use a dremel to get the nuts off originally so its been massacred! Then ill get 6 new nuts and bolts in their place which hopefully wont disintegrate like the last ones!

Hopefully some good progress will be made this coming weekend!

I also purchased a black Forge DV008 whilst Awesome had their black Friday sale on, as i have being eying one up for a while and it was a great price!

If anyone else decides to use wrinkle paint, please make sure you do it somewhere warm otherwise you will just end up with a gloss black colour! That said, now that ive done it in my heated garage at home the charge pipe and brackets are looking awesome... one day i think i will do the inlet manifold too!


----------



## roddy

Aye,, yer some lad


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> Aye,, yer some lad


Thanks mate, getting there and learning all the time! :lol: (Usually what NOT to do!!)


----------



## uv101

NickG said:


> Next job will be to drill out the studs for the cats. We had to use a dremel to get the nuts off originally so its been massacred! Then ill get 6 new nuts and bolts in their place which hopefully wont disintegrate like the last ones!


Try heating them and knocking them through. That's what I did with mine at the weekend. You'll need to get them proper hot tho. Only took about 5 mins with a gas torch :wink:

Failing that, get cobalt drill bits and use a decent cutting lube. You'll be there all day with normal high speed bits.


----------



## NickG

Ahhh really? Did you grind them off levelish first and then do that?


----------



## JDUB 20V

Did you speak to Dan about going KO4 Hybrid then Nick?


----------



## NickG

JDUB 20V said:


> Did you speak to Dan about going KO4 Hybrid then Nick?


Done more than that bud, i've got one from him bolted to the engine now! :lol: Good shout mate thanks!


----------



## JDUB 20V

NickG said:


> JDUB 20V said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you speak to Dan about going KO4 Hybrid then Nick?
> 
> 
> 
> Done more than that bud, i've got one from him bolted to the engine now! :lol: Good shout mate thanks!
Click to expand...

Lol - I havent even used my hybrid yet.. Dan is clued up with his knowhow so you know you are getting quality and after care should you need more cars/turbos doing etc... :wink: Did you go for the upgraded actuator?


----------



## NickG

Yeah he has given very good service so far! I've not, to be honest i was only going to get a standard rebuild from him at first, but a few things changed so for now i have a entry level hybrid as it were!


----------



## JDUB 20V

NickG said:


> Yeah he has given very good service so far! I've not, to be honest i was only going to get a standard rebuild from him at first, but a few things changed so for now i have a entry level hybrid as it were!


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## uv101

NickG said:


> Ahhh really? Did you grind them off levelish first and then do that?


Bottom 4 were ground almost flat but the top 2 had some thread exposed. They tapped out pretty easy with some decent heat.


----------



## NickG

uv101 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhh really? Did you grind them off levelish first and then do that?
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom 4 were ground almost flat but the top 2 had some thread exposed. They tapped out pretty easy with some decent heat.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for the advice mate, i'll give it a go sunday!!


----------



## NickG

Fantastic day today, made a lot of progress! 

The engine is now mounted complete with Powerflex dog bone mount inserts and not sure if i mentioned but have changed the steering rack bush to a powerflex job too. So the engine was in place, and now we've started to connect all the electricals, hoses, power steering system, mounted the battery tray etc.

And here's how she stands as we left her tonight...


Ready to start hooking up the radiators etc. which should be easy, considering all the air con pipework is out of the way now!

And then a few bits where assistance would be much appreciated...

1) Location for fixing earth on passenger side of battery

2) Earth strap on driver's side of battery (We did label it as bellow coolant pipes, but this now means nothing to us!) :lol: 

3) Brake servo hose no.1... from other engine bays i have seen i assume this is where it goes however mine appears to have a different hard pipe to others i have seen? Is this correct?

4) Brake servo hose no.2 .... NO idea where this goes?!


So we are getting there, have a few little bits to pick up from Audi tuesday and then a few more good hours and it shouldn't be long until shes ready.

Looking ahead, before we start her we'll obviously fill all the various fluids, however i may have asked before but i need to confirm method for priming the turbo...

1) Undo coil packs from spark plugs
2) Remove fuse for fuel pump
3) Turn the engine over for 3 lots of 15 seconds

Does this sound correct and if so which fuse is for the fuel pump?


----------



## Ian_W

I'm sure one of the earths connects to the box, the one with the flat connector iirc.


----------



## NickG

Yeah i couldn't see anywhere for it to go though :?


----------



## L33JSA

There should be a gearbox bolt with a smaller thread off the back of it that you attach the earth too above the gearbox and below the coolant pipes.....infact its below the plastic coolant housing that attaches to the side of the head.

Battery earth I 'think' is below the plastic waterfall.


----------



## NickG

Ahhh I see, I'll have another look next time then! Getting there slowly!

Does that sound like the right way to prime the turbo lee?

Seen your update on BRM... Gutted it's not moved closer to Peterborough!! :lol:


----------



## Wak

You have an apx, those blue hoses don't apply to that engine


----------



## NickG

:x well that sucks!! Never mind, I'll stick them in the forsale section on the off chance then!!

Thanks Wak


----------



## L33JSA

It's not just priming the turbo it's getting oil all round the rest of the engine before first start and also making sure there's no air in the oil pump which can sometimes happen.

Here's what I normally do.....usually before fitting engine into bay but in your case do it before you put the front end back on as it's easier to access.....disconnect the oil feed to the turbo from the oil filter housing - crank the engine over at 5 second intervals until oil flows out of the hole. Infact if you've still got your old oil feed pipe you could fit that to the hole and stick the other end in a bottle to catch it otherwise it's a bit messy. Once the oil comes through you know that the pump is picking up the oil and pumping it properly. Fit the proper oil feed back on and before you come to start it properly give it another 2 or 3 cranks of 5 seconds to work the oil around then start it.


----------



## NickG

Oh really, didn't think about that! Awesome, I'll give that a go then, did you disconnect coil pack etc. when doing this then?


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> Oh really, didn't think about that! Awesome, I'll give that a go then, did you disconnect coil pack etc. when doing this then?


Yes....and injectors but you need to clear the ECU codes otherwise it won't start afterwards.


----------



## NickG

Brilliant, thanks lee!  I've got a code reader which should be able to do that then!


----------



## NickG

Still can't find the location for the battery earth, pic no.1 on the last page!! Anyone?


----------



## Ian_W

NickG said:


> Still can't find the location for the battery earth, pic no.1 on the last page!! Anyone?


Hmm, racking my brain for that one, iirc one goes to the box as said, then one runs to the starter *I think* and maybe there was one that connected to the fuse box?


----------



## NickG

Your a star, spot on thanks!!


----------



## Ian_W

NickG said:


> Your a star, spot on thanks!!


I can't guarantee i'm right, haven't had to touch the engine bay in 3 months :lol:


----------



## NickG

Nope you were dead right, i was in the garage while posting! Cheers :lol:


----------



## roddy

great Nick,, you are fair getting on with it,,,, i can almost feel your excitment


----------



## NickG

Getting there Roddy  Just excited to hear that engine tick over again for the first time!


----------



## L33JSA

Ian_W said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Still can't find the location for the battery earth, pic no.1 on the last page!! Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, racking my brain for that one, iirc one goes to the box as said, then one runs to the starter *I think* and maybe there was one that connected to the fuse box?
Click to expand...

Erm....hold on guys......battery EARTH.....why would that be going to the fuse box ontop of the battery??


----------



## NickG

Yeah I'm not sure it was battery earth! It had the same connectors as the red ones on the box ontop of the battery and there was a convenient seperately space for it?


----------



## NickG

Evening folks!!!

Another good day in the garage and another big step forward towards a working vehicle again! :lol:

After putting the battery on a charger the light indicated that the battery was fully charged... very strange! So i put it back in and tried again. For a very small moment the starter motor turned! But then nothing. 

After posting a video up yet again i was prompted to check the battery level, so as mine was reading fully charged we decided to try a battery from the Scoob that sits on the driveway and...WOOHOO! She works! Not sure what wrong with my battery, we have stuck it on to try and charge, but if no luck i'll get a new one! So using the Subaru battery we got the engine turning and after 2 lots of 5 seconds (Almost dead on... good knowledge Lee!!) oil began to gush out of the oil feed! Result! 

So next up the radiator is on, along with slam panel and a few other bits, she's starting to look like a car again...




We have the passenger side drive shaft connected up too, however we're really struggling to get the driver's side shaft on, it just wont locate in the transfer box, must be a good inch off at the top but much closer at the bottom. Any ideas on a trick for this!?

Also i have an SFS hose left over that i cant see a place for, any ideas on this...



Really happy with progress, i can't see it being long now!! 

Next up will be getting that driveshaft on and getting the fluids filled up and the intercooler pipework back on, ready for a start-up i believe! 

Also need to watch a video on bleeding the clutch as i suck at this, we couldn't do the Scoob when we tried that either, so clearly have no idea what we are doing!! :lol: But i'm sure we'll get there! (I've read on here that the slave cylinder is gravity fed so this is going to make it even harder?!)


----------



## Ian_W

Nearly there mate!

CV sounds odd, are you sure you don't just need to give it a wiggle to get it in place?


----------



## NickG

Ian_W said:


> Nearly there mate!
> 
> CV sounds odd, are you sure you don't just need to give it a wiggle to get it in place?


I don't really know, its very strange, we've undone the wishbone so it can move towards the transfer box a bit more but it just won't go in! Its almost like its at the wrong angle so the top can't locate. It just won't seem to go in, so annoying! I would try and take it off on the hub end but without it connected i can't see it being easy to loosen off without it spinning the disc.


----------



## steveupton

NickG said:


> Ian_W said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly there mate!
> 
> CV sounds odd, are you sure you don't just need to give it a wiggle to get it in place?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really know, its very strange, we've undone the wishbone so it can move towards the transfer box a bit more but it just won't go in! Its almost like its at the wrong angle so the top can't locate. It just won't seem to go in, so annoying! I would try and take it off on the hub end but without it connected i can't see it being easy to loosen off without it spinning the disc.
Click to expand...

Has the pressed steel shroud on the end of the driveshaft become distorted as it's only thin gauge? It's a very close fit so needs to be perfect.


----------



## NickG

Ohhh really? I'll have a look, i can't rule that out! :?

Hope not mind you!! Cheers.


----------



## steveupton

NickG said:


> Ohhh really? I'll have a look, i can't rule that out! :?
> 
> Hope not mind you!! Cheers.


Forgot to mention you get this part in a genuine Audi CV boot kit.


----------



## NickG

Oh okay, so MAYBE not too expensive then if it is broken?


----------



## steveupton

NickG said:


> Oh okay, so MAYBE not too expensive then if it is broken?


Less than £30 for complete kit


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> Ian_W said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would try and take it off on the hub end but without it connected i can't see it being easy to loosen off without it *spinning the disc.*
Click to expand...

Either put a screwdriver through the middle of the disc so it lodges against the caliper or get someone to put their foot on the brake.

Either way you shouldnt need to do this - it should just go straight on and mate up.


----------



## NickG

That's a good call cheers Lee! I'll give it another go, it might be that i was just being stupid and getting frustrated, that's why i moved onto something else!

Hopefully won't be to long now, then you might get left alone Lee!! :lol:


----------



## tonksy26

NickG said:


> That's a good call cheers Lee! I'll give it another go, it might be that i was just being stupid and getting frustrated, that's why i moved onto something else!
> 
> Hopefully won't be to long now, then you might get left alone Lee!! :lol:


Don't worry, he's used to me ringing up every 2 minutes asking about this and that 

i think he likes the attention :wink:


----------



## NickG

Well today didn't go entirely to plan! Battery is now fully charged and working well so that's good! Good the intercoolers all hooked up and all fluids filled ready to start her up! However after cranking over for a few bursts a massive pile of oil beneathe the car!!

Seems one of the oil lines on the turbo must be very loose or somethint, there was quite a lot there beneathe the car. We are thinking it's the oil return line at the minute but cannot confirm, access is so terrible to those line that I'm fearing the fact that we are probably going to have to drain the fluids and pull the engine out again. :?

Unless anyone has a brilliant way to access them! Also does anyone know the torque specs for the oil and coolant lines so I can check these?


----------



## s3tt

Oil feed is on top and easy to see if it's leaking..

Oil drain can be tightened from either the side by taking the tip off or from underneath.. It's tight but no need to pull the engine..


----------



## Lollypop86

I know I know!!!!

Buy a TT with a running engine so that you can take another selfie with the wind in your paper faces hair 

J
xx


----------



## NickG

Cheers Dan, I'll give it a go tomorrow, tbh I didn't give it much of a go as it was the end of the day anyway!

Hahaha yeah that could work Jess, I still have my gorgeous alter-ego with me too :wink:


----------



## Lollypop86

ha ha mines at work on my desk lol

J
xx


----------



## NickG

Hmmm... had a quick play today and it seems the the oil return is tightened enough, can't see that that much oil came from it being loose at all. I can feel the gasket inbetween the pipe and the turbo, unless this is the wrong one i cant see that being the area of leaking. Also looking at the size of the oil return line presumably the oil doesn't come out at the same pressure that it goes in at, so again with the amount of oil present i can't see it being the return.

That leaves the oil feed, which i will have ti try and find a way of getting to, i'm sure we used new washers either side of the banjo, but i guess this will be the next port of call :? frustrating!!


----------



## L33JSA

Check you havent overtightened the camcover ....thats presuming you have replaced it of course.

What else have you renewed/changed?


----------



## NickG

Yeah we did have the can cover off and cleaned it up, used a new gasket too. I don't think it's that as there's no oil on the exhaust manifold. I changed the oil filter bracket and oil cooler but that's obviously the wrong side, the sump but that's too low and then I think that leaves only the turbo feed and return. I do remember that the turbo had an extra hole which came with a blanking plug too, but I did think that was to so with coolant at the time, worth a look at too I guess.

Was just thinking how good/bad an idea it would be to clean up the area and then crank it over again to try and see if I can feel the exact location?


----------



## roddy

Yes it would bé a good idea to clean up and then turn it over , if there is a lot of aoil around you should see q easy where its coming from ,, even if not alot. Ita a oood idea to put some kitchen towel around suspect areas and maybe keep the mess down ,,, good luck amd all best for New Year


----------



## adz556

Well I suppose I can reply for Nick seen as its sat in my garage....

We have decided to pull the engine again to see exactly what is leaking and give the engine a thorough clean....last thing we wanted was to have to burn the oil off while trying to check everything over! So last night a 7pm we started to un-plumb the engine and strip the car ready for removal and by 9pm its only the mounts left to go. Unfortunately I go on holiday next week so we have another week off the car but not too far now.....HOPEFULLY!!!


----------



## L33JSA

Brake cleaner would have been your friend here - spray it on liberally and watch the oil disappear.

Seems a bit severe to just find a leak. I'd have just cleaned it all off and started it and watched for the oil.


----------



## Rich196

wow another epic rebuild thread! Well done for getting stuck in. Top work!


----------



## NickG

Yeah I think if it was just the one leak then I'd have given it a go in-situ, but unfortunately I also noticed coolant dripping about so figured I'd prefer to get the whole thing out and have a look at it properly! Got the correct torque specs so will try tightening again and see if that helps, otherwise it will be a head scratcher!! :lol:


----------



## L33JSA

So now that you're going to have ripped it out & drained all the coolant probably making a bit of a mess in the process - how are you going to tell where the leak(s) were...similiarly with the oil leak since now you won't be able to start it as it's out the car.

There's nothing you can't tighten up whilst it's in situ that could leak other than the rear crankshaft seal and that requires the box to be removed to get to.

Have you got any pics of the leak?


----------



## NickG

Yeah its definitely not ideal at all! 

I could see drops of coolant around the connection to the block, and the blanking plate that the new CHRA came with, so both of these must have been undertightned.

The only photo which showed anything at all is this...



But that doesnt show too much i dont think. There was oil all over the that area that could be physically felt, so i'm 99% confident it is either the feed or return.

Unfortunately we weren't having any luck finding access to the oil feed connection to the turbo, assuming you need to take the manifold off to do this?


----------



## L33JSA

The only thing I can see from that picture is that the banjo seals don't look new....and they should do!

Have you taken the TIP off the turbo and had a look in there?


----------



## NickG

Good point, the oil ones are all new, but the coolant ones weren't i don't think... i'll add that to my list for ordering tomorrow!

I've not yet, won't be long til i can have a look! What are you thinking then?


----------



## L33JSA

Tut tut. Why would you replace the oil ones and not the others!? :?

Also bear in mind that you replaced the oil feed so there maybe a small possibility that the unions on that maybe leaking too?

Well just remove the tip and make sure it's dry in there.


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> Tut tut. Why would you replace the oil ones and not the others!? :?
> 
> Also bear in mind that you replaced the oil feed so there maybe a small possibility that the unions on that maybe leaking too?


Yep hold my hands up, stupid! The oil ones were done with the new banjos that were required, for probably 8p maybe would have been worth the investment!

Yeah thats another possibility for sure, and actually with the amount of oil that came out it could be the most likely scenario, unless the banjo was very very loose!


----------



## L33JSA

Get them for the other end of the coolant line too off the block just to make sure.


----------



## NickG

Ahh good shout, its 6 i'll need in total! :roll:


----------



## NickG

Good work today... which will make up for the horrifically bad work done before.

99% sure we found the culprit today to be a poorly (if at all) tightened oil feed fitting, managed to undo by hand which tells you how loose it was, i feel like somehow we managed to forget that, which is a REALLY stupid thing to do, but i don't think that will ever happen again... A lesson learned! Anyway, replaced the coolant seals to all 3 banjo's as well and tightned EVERYTHING up to the correct torque specs, and much much happier with this now!

She currently stands with all the engine mounts mounted, ready for me to start re-attaching things again while my mate is away, then give it another go with the priming and see if we have any leaks this time!! :roll:


----------



## NickG

Today is a day i have been waiting 3 months for... SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!  

After re-mounting the engine last time, we connected everything up ready. Primed it all again, 3 lots of 15 seconds and no oil leaks to be found... result :lol:

So, we filled her up with coolant, and power steering fluid, and after a failed attempt, and all codes cleared....

.... WE HAVE POWER!!! No strange noises, no issues that can be seen other than a minor coolant leak which i believe is coming from the connection to the bottom of the main chamber, im not 100% sure but we will investigate as it was the end of the day.

Let her run for a little while to reach temperature and after a few minutes we hit 91 degrees on the climate control system with the 49C trick. Really chuffed with it today!

The only niggle is with the clutch. Bought a bleeding pump and i think i'm using it correctly. The pedal is no longer stuck down, its fully up, but it feels relatively light and doesnt bite for the first, maybe inch of travel. I'm not convinced there isnt a problem with the bleed valve however as it just seems to be drawing in air from the plastic area that the nipple screws into when pumping it and not dragging barely any fluid out... any thoughts?


----------



## NickG

Excuse the poor quality! Was a very exciting moment, hence the HUGE smile on my face! 

Also just to note the exhaust system is not connected, hence the loudness!


----------



## Matt B

Great news - well done that man


----------



## NickG

Matt B said:


> Great news - well done that man


Cheers Matt! Been a long road but we're almost there! Basically ancillary bits and pieces to go!


----------



## tonksy26

Bloody hell. I wish I had that sort of turn out every time I/lee fired the engine for the first time again. Saying that nobody would ever get any work done and constantly live at BRM HQ.

Well done anyway nick. Now fingers crossed it doesn't end up like mine 8)


----------



## n88byb

Been following your thread for some time and it's nice to see your almost there. Well done nick


----------



## NickG

:lol: :lol: :lol:

They weren't all out there for the car, i think it was my mates grandparent leaving the house just at the time we were preparing for start-up! Added pressure or what! :lol:

Thanks pal! I hope it doesn't too, not seen an update for a while, heard anything from the oil pump manufacturer?



n88byb said:


> Been following your thread for some time and it's nice to see your almost there. Well done nick


Cheers buddy


----------



## tonksy26

NickG said:


> :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> They weren't all out there for the car, i think it was my mates grandparent leaving the house just at the time we were preparing for start-up! Added pressure or what! :lol:
> 
> Thanks pal! I hope it doesn't too, not seen an update for a while, heard anything from the oil pump manufacturer?
> 
> 
> 
> n88byb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Been following your thread for some time and it's nice to see your almost there. Well done nick
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers buddy
Click to expand...

Not yet fella :? Parts have been ordered and should be here anyday now.


----------



## NickG

tonksy26 said:


> Not yet fella :? Parts have been ordered and should be here anyday now.


Hopefully you get them and get it all sorted ASAP! (And with a good payout from the manufacturer!)


----------



## L33JSA

Well done mate.....good to see it coming together for you


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> Well done mate.....good to see it coming together for you


Cheers Lee! Definitely couldn't have done it without your vast input so i owe you one!! ... actually probably two or three!!


----------



## BaueruTc

Congratulations! I am sure you will be glad to get her back on the road.

If i remember correctly your troubles started not long after buying her, So you have not had a chance to fully enjoy yet. 

Im sure you will make up for it now!

RR day would be a good start!


----------



## NickG

BaueruTc said:


> Congratulations! I am sure you will be glad to get her back on the road.
> 
> If i remember correctly your troubles started not long after buying her, So you have not had a chance to fully enjoy yet.
> 
> Im sure you will make up for it now!
> 
> RR day would be a good start!


Thanks buddy!! You are correct, having heard her again now I cannot wait to get her on the road!!

When and where is that? Would be great to come down and meet some people if nothing else!


----------



## NickG

This evening she has come ever closer to being "Finished"!

Driveshafts are now on (at correct torque setting :lol: ), bodywork and headlights are in and archliners are in!! 

All thats left is the undertray and drilling the studs out of the cats to connect the exhaust up! 

So hopefully, all being well, sunday should be the day!


----------



## L33JSA

How's the prop? Sorted?


----------



## uv101

Good to hear.......and see 8) 8)


----------



## NickG

Ahhh yeah, forgot to mention, lifted the engine a bit and managed to slide her on eventually!  Thanks buddy!


----------



## NickG

Looking more like a car!!


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> Looking more like a car!!


Looking good, but your coolant bottle looks like someone took a shit in it


----------



## L33JSA

Why no blue hose off the turbo to match? tut tut!!!

....and check out that coolant tank...shocking


----------



## NickG

Agreed they both look shite BUT not important to run right now!! :lol:

Coolant bottle one day and will do all the boost hoses when a FMIC comes around :wink:


----------



## uv101

you need one of these!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Expansion-Tan ... 1033612702


----------



## NickG

Bargains!! Someone buy my Rally day thats for sale and i can afford one :lol: :lol:


----------



## roddy

NickG said:


> Looking more like a car!!


looking good mate ( ok bottle apart but was not going to mention that :wink: ) I hope all is well this time..


----------



## steveupton

I await with bated breath, everything crossed


----------



## NickG

Today was a good day! Moving around the estate under her own power!!     

Slightly noisy as after an hour of not much success removing the studs on the can i decided a better route may be a 3" downpipe and decat after all :lol: :lol:

Might need to speak to Tonksy about the relentless one, hopefully that'll do the job!

She's probably not going to be going anywhere for a few months unfortunately until funds allow insurance, tax, injectors and a Wak map... but the next project has been rolled into the garage for working on!! :roll:

Just like to say a MASSIVE thanks to everyone who has helped so far as without the knowledge on this forum i would have been well and truly.... stuck!


----------



## NickG

Ohhh and even had time to give her a bit of a wash... no where near show shine as i've not had a chance yet, but atleast i have washed her after 4 months of ownership! :lol: :lol:



YES she needs to be lower and wider but shhhh pretend the gaps don't exist for now!


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> Ohhh and even had time to give her a bit of a wash... no where near show shine as i've not had a chance yet, but atleast i have washed her after 4 months of ownership! :lol: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> YES she needs to be lower and wider but shhhh pretend the gaps don't exist for now!


Looking good (the car that is)


----------



## kasandrich

So after all that work to get it running, you are not going to put it on the road at the moment 

Well done for persevering with it and not getting down about it, most would have been well hacked off with it after all this time, me included.


----------



## NickG

Hahaha cheers Brian!

Yeah I know, it does suck a bit, but not much point having her insured until I can actually drive her after being mapped to the new turbo! Can't wait though... In the meantime I can tinker with other bits!!


----------



## davelincs

We'll done Nick, I have been reading the thread, and waiting for this day, lesser men would have scrapped it before now, a lot of hard work and heartache, take care of her now  
And don't forget to keep us updated


----------



## James1050S3

Well done getting it all fixed. Keep the old bottle, it adds 'character'


----------



## NickG

Not much updates recently as nothing has happened (Other than a random puncture! :evil: ).

That and also i have been collecting...



Groupbuy 3" downpipe and decat
FMIC set-up
Bosch 630cc Injectors
Reverse light patch too :wink:

So i'm gunna be busy installing this lot the next couple of weekends! I have already prepared for the worst with the downpipe, just hope its not too much of a pain! I have bought the collar that was suggested so the cat-back side of things shouldn't be an issue anyway!

And finally the big BIG *BIG* news... Booked in to get Wak'd on April 5th!!! 
       

So hopefully can get her all prepped and ready with a couple of weeks to spare!!

Couple of questions too, i have to make a 100mile trip down to Wak...

1) Will the car be able to run fine on the larger injectors before mapping?
2) Will the whole car be fun to run down there in general, assuming i have to keep her steady and as little boost as possible?


----------



## Callum-TT

NickG said:


> Not much updates recently as nothing has happened (Other than a random puncture! :evil: ).
> 
> That and also i have been collecting...
> 
> 
> 
> Groupbuy 3" downpipe and decat
> FMIC set-up
> Bosch 630cc Injectors
> Reverse light patch too :wink:
> 
> So i'm gunna be busy installing this lot the next couple of weekends! I have already prepared for the worst with the downpipe, just hope its not too much of a pain! I have bought the collar that was suggested so the cat-back side of things shouldn't be an issue anyway!
> 
> And finally the big BIG *BIG* news... Booked in to get Wak'd on April 5th!!!
> 
> 
> So hopefully can get her all prepped and ready with a couple of weeks to spare!!
> 
> Couple of questions too, i have to make a 100mile trip down to Wak...
> 
> 1) Will the car be able to run fine on the larger injectors before mapping?
> 2) Will the whole car be fun to run down there in general, assuming i have to keep her steady and as little boost as possible?


Great work mate.

I would not install the injectors until you are with WAK mate. It will run like crap and make sure he knows about the injectors before you get there as they are a pig to map in.

The car in general will be fine to run as long as the injectors are not in.


----------



## L33JSA

1. No, fit them when you get down there.
2. Providing you dont fit the injectors you will be fine.


----------



## NickG

Ahaaa, good call thanks Callum and Lee. I did think this would make it run like a bag of poop, shouldn't be too difficult job to do there then hopefully!

Hope your fight went well bud!


----------



## Eadon

8) [smiley=dude.gif] 8) [smiley=dude.gif]

Good stuff Nick!

I'm wanting to get my car booked in with Wak too, just debating what spec I go for.

As it stands, I want to like yourself, get everything together and fitted at once and then go see Wak rather than having to fit in stages with multiple visits to Wak. Would certainly work out cheaper.

I need FMIC and injectors. Have 3" DP and decat unfitted and the other bits fitted.

Will be watching this intently.

Are you fitting everything yourself?

Jon


----------



## Callum-TT

NickG said:


> Ahaaa, good call thanks Callum and Lee. I did think this would make it run like a bag of poop, shouldn't be too difficult job to do there then hopefully!
> 
> Hope your fight went well bud!


Yeah was ok, didn't win but I bossed the fight until I got caught.

Shame.

Great work with the car though mate. I look forward to seeing it at some point.

Who's doing your down pipe or are you doing it yourself? If doing it yourself prepare for issues mate as mine went on last week and was a cooker


----------



## NickG

Eadon said:


> 8) [smiley=dude.gif] 8) [smiley=dude.gif]
> 
> Good stuff Nick!
> 
> I'm wanting to get my car booked in with Wak too, just debating what spec I go for.
> 
> As it stands, I want to like yourself, get everything together and fitted at once and then go see Wak rather than having to fit in stages with multiple visits to Wak. Would certainly work out cheaper.
> 
> I need FMIC and injectors. Have 3" DP and decat unfitted and the other bits fitted.
> 
> Will be watching this intently.
> 
> Are you fitting everything yourself?
> 
> Jon


Definitely best get as much done as you plan to have done before mapping, saves time and money in the long run!

yeah fitting everything between me and a mate, good job the weathers picked up though as his scoob is hogging the garage again now! :lol:



Callum-TT said:


> Yeah was ok, didn't win but I bossed the fight until I got caught.
> 
> Shame.
> 
> Great work with the car though mate. I look forward to seeing it at some point.
> 
> Who's doing your down pipe or are you doing it yourself? If doing it yourself prepare for issues mate as mine went on last week and was a cooker


Ahhh thats a shame, live and learn for next time to kick ass!! Fair play for getting in there in the first place!

Yeah i'm doing it myself, looks like its gunna be a right laugh to do :? hopefully a whole day saturday should get me somewhere close!


----------



## Callum-TT

NickG said:


> Eadon said:
> 
> 
> 
> 8) [smiley=dude.gif] 8) [smiley=dude.gif]
> 
> Good stuff Nick!
> 
> I'm wanting to get my car booked in with Wak too, just debating what spec I go for.
> 
> As it stands, I want to like yourself, get everything together and fitted at once and then go see Wak rather than having to fit in stages with multiple visits to Wak. Would certainly work out cheaper.
> 
> I need FMIC and injectors. Have 3" DP and decat unfitted and the other bits fitted.
> 
> Will be watching this intently.
> 
> Are you fitting everything yourself?
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely best get as much done as you plan to have done before mapping, saves time and money in the long run!
> 
> yeah fitting everything between me and a mate, good job the weathers picked up though as his scoob is hogging the garage again now! :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Callum-TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah was ok, didn't win but I bossed the fight until I got caught.
> 
> Shame.
> 
> Great work with the car though mate. I look forward to seeing it at some point.
> 
> Who's doing your down pipe or are you doing it yourself? If doing it yourself prepare for issues mate as mine went on last week and was a cooker
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ahhh thats a shame, live and learn for next time to kick ass!! Fair play for getting in there in the first place!
> 
> Yeah i'm doing it myself, looks like its gunna be a right laugh to do :? hopefully a whole day saturday should get me somewhere close!
Click to expand...

It took my guy a whole day to do so it may take you part of sunday as well.

Good luck buddy


----------



## Eadon

Could you please document the process pictures, I may be able to give it a to myself then and save some precious pennies! Would be massively appreciated; I know it slows things a little taking pictures as go


----------



## NickG

Eadon said:


> Could you please document the process pictures, I may be able to give it a to myself then and save some precious pennies! Would be massively appreciated; I know it slows things a little taking pictures as go


I'll give it a go bud, my phone tends to die very fast when its cold (Dont ask :lol: ) but i'll do what i can!! Also i wouldn't trust what i do post, there will definitely be things that i've done wrong! :lol:


----------



## Eadon

Haha just a point in the right direction will do, problems encountered etc


----------



## NickG

Eadon said:


> Haha just a point in the right direction will do, problems encountered etc


Yeah no problems, i get what you mean, even just photo's of what to expect to see help hugely! 

I'll give it a whirl Saturday!


----------



## Eadon

NickG said:


> Eadon said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haha just a point in the right direction will do, problems encountered etc
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah no problems, i get what you mean, even just photo's of what to expect to see help hugely!
> 
> I'll give it a whirl Saturday!
Click to expand...

Exactly 

Ta buddy!


----------



## NickG

Only a quick update from today as my afternoon was taken up mainly by kicking an inflated ball of air...

First things first, this morning a got her up onto axle stands ready for tomorrow's attempted downpipe fitting session...



Is this the definition of too much arch gap?  Than had the rear drivers side wheel off to look at my slow puncture...



...oooops! A quick trip into town and £20 later and i had a fully inflated tyre again though! :roll:

I decided to start a bit of stripping out as i didn't have too much time. Anyone know what these are? I found them in the back, but can't see a use for them?



Once the seat where out i was greeted by this...



This could make installing the temporary subwoofer that i wanted a piece of cake!!! I'll have to check tomorrow to see if they are live or if they were just dumped there and a previous owner had an aftermarket head unit... fingers crossed they are running off the standard one though, that'd make my life a whole lot easier!

Also there is the black box sitting on the passenger side... what is this? Assuming that it has a use and is required, but can it be relocated?

Finally i had a quick check to make sure my snowboard bag would fit ready to hit Landgraff in May...



RESULT!!!!

I'll be back tomorrow with updates on the downpipe situation!


----------



## snap

Hope it all goes well


----------



## ©hatterBox

The black box is the headlight levelling sensor I believe

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## NickG

Well today has been a long day, a very long day!

Struggled for absolutely hours to get the old downpipe out, but eventually resorted back to plan A and dropped the subframe (Thanks Lee for providing a brain wave, went and bought a 6 sided 21mm deep socket and managed to get the final subframe bolt off!)

Remove the chargepipe so you can access the upper turbo nut on the downpipe...



Remove the wheel and then you will have to remove the shield over the drive shaft to help with access...



This is where you will find it...



Two nuts and one bolt to remove it. Now is also a good time to undo the drive shaft to drop that out of the way.

Get right in there now with a deep 17mm socket, a universal joint and a 300mm extension, and you should be able to undo the lower 2 turbo nuts.



At this point i stopped taking photos and started swearing a lot. The only way to do this change really is to drop the subrame. In doing so you will need to undo the ball joints both sides, the drop links, the powersteering rack, the 4 21mm bolts holding the subframe, the dogbone mount where it fixes to the subframe and the steering linkage in the drivers footwell. Be prepared as this take some time and is very fiddley.

Once i done this and got the old downpipe out of the way i got the new one mounted and the subframe back up... Yep, as with everyone else i'm rubbing on the powersteering and bulkhead...



As previously mentioned by others there is a good 10mm between the downpipe and prop shaft, so if the top secion of the downpipe was 5mm shorter it would fit nicely!



Not ideal but tomorrow i will attempt to elongate the holes, and see if i can find some wiggle room!



©hatterBox said:


> The black box is the headlight levelling sensor I believe
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Thanks bud, i guessed that was probably what it was. Any idea if people relocate these when they strip out the back seats etc?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Fair play for giving this a go DIY!!!!

looks like your well on the way to completion! good guide so far aswell, keep up the good work!


----------



## NickG

Last night and this morning has gone VERY well!!!

Thursday night i got a local friend to remove the flange from the downpipe and re-weld it 5mm further in. He done a cracking job and the result is this...



Plenty of clearance all around now!

Then bolted all the subframe and suspension up again, thanks very much for the torque spec diagrams provided by a fellow member!! 

This morning i then mounted the exhaust from the downpipe back. As mentioned you will need to cut around 30mm from the end of the decat section to pair it with the OEM system. Once this was done she went together very well. I did have to use some longer bolts for the exhaust sleeve where decat meets cat-back system, but other than that no problems at all!

Then i gave her a start-up and ran her up to temperature. Can't feel any leaks around any of the joints... result! 

Very happy with the system now, and its the first time i have had the engine running with a full exhaust system connected, and i can confirm she sounds good. I really like the S2000 cone, the suck sound followed by the WOSHHHHH of the diverter valve sounds immense!! 

But then i decided to move onto the next job... As previously mentioned, i have a eurotrip in May and was hoping to wire in a subwoofer, for a bit of reminiscing of the teenage years! :lol: Well when stripping i found a full wiring kit under the rear seats and today i had a chance to look whats going on behind the headunit and what a result... The it is already fully wired in!!  Got out the multimeter and tested the switched line, that works fine, so touch wood so will the RCA cables! 

But that's not all i found...



An FM transmitter! At first i wasn't sure exactly what this done, but after some googling (Thanks Skeee :lol: ) I had a better understanding of what i was looking at, and then tucked down behind the dash was this...



an AUX input!! stuck in the ipod and BOOM! Set to 87.7FM and it works like a charm!! Things are looking up now!! :lol:

Finally, as if i didn't have enough to do before the visit to Wak, i decided to have a play with the wheels...


----------



## NickG

*Spraying the wheels*

I gave them all a very good degrease and wash down first of all. Then it was time for the sanding down, i spent about 1 hour on each wheel prepping them and was happy-ish with the results. Then it was time for some priming...

This looked okay. One of the wheels i believe is a copy, and its being a bit of a pig as rather than sanding down the kerbing like the other three, this one just wants to chip off. I decided i would get as much loose stuff off as possible and then sand down the edges as best i could. It does unfortunately show BUT as mentioned many times before, this is a track project, so looks arent everything. I'm mainly doing this as i always wanted to try it so thought i would give it a go on a set i'm not to fussed about! If i were to do this again i wold definitely use filler, i wasn't brave enough this time, but wish i had been now as i think i could have coped!

After a few layers of priming i gave them all a rub down with 1200 grit wet and dry and then wiped them all off with a damp cloth.




Then it was time for the paint. I've gone Matte black (No points for originality i know!) so after a dust coat and a thin coat...




Then a good wipe down and a second coat...




Before a final third coat...





This has taken 5 days in total to allow drying time but i'm actually pleasantly surprised at the finish!

Whilst i'm waiting for the new springs i will leave these to dry fully! Hopefully have the car done this saturday ready for Wak on 5th April!!


----------



## Matt B

I think the fact they are multi drill wheels means they are all copies mate 
Nice work though. Try and bag some lightweight wheels mate - makes a big difference to handling


----------



## NickG

Matt B said:


> I think the fact they are multi drill wheels means they are all copies mate
> Nice work though. Try and bag some lightweight wheels mate - makes a big difference to handling


 :lol: :lol: Fair enough! In that case i stand corrected...3 are bad copies... and ONE is bloody terrible! :lol:

Yeah i may look into that one day! I'll want a set of wheels for track days with Toyo 888's so will think about it then!


----------



## NickG

*Lowering Springs*

Another good weekend on the car just gone!

Picked up some AMAX 40mm lowering springs from Euro Car Parts for less than £56 (Great call Mullum!). They are... Yellow and springy looking?!



First i done the rears, possibly one of the easiest jobs you will do on the car... Undo the rear droplink/shock bolt to the wheel hub (AND headlight sensor if passenger side) and then the trailing arm will drop down enough to free the spring, with a little pushing and shoving! Then insert the new one, jack the hub up, and do up the shock/droplink bolt to 110NM... jobs a gooden! 



(Pointless arty photo :lol: )



Next up is the fronts. These take a little longer...

A lot more to undo:

Strut nut and bolt, Droplink top, carriers first. Once these are all done, jack the hub up to compress the spring then put on the spring compressors and tighten as much as possible. Next up you need to loosen off the top strut nut in the engine bay. This is a pain as you need a deep 21mm socket with a hex top that you can put a spanner on. Then you need a 7mm long allen key that can go right down the middle of the socket into the middle of the nut. Then you need to undo the socket and hold the allen key steady at the same time to loosen of the nut and undo the strut cap. Don't fully undo this yet, only loosen!

Nows the real fun, once everything is loose you need to try and free the strut from the bottom where it sits in the wheel hub. This isn't easy at all, i managed to firstly pry the hub apart by about 5mm with various large screwdrivers. This still wasnt budging, so eventually i found a way to use a jack, sitting n the wheel hub housing and pushing the bottom collar of the strut up (It slipped a few times and wasn't ideal). Eventually this broke the seal and the strut was free! Now undo the top nut that you loosened earlier and you should be able to take the thing out!



Then you need to use the same technique as you did with the top strut nut (21mm socket & 7mm allen key) to remove the top mount and bearing. The spring should slide off the strut now, so carefully remove the spring compressors. Then compress the new spring enough to put on the strut (Don't make my mistake of thinking i couldn't compress it enough, only to realise i hadn't pulled the rod out as far as possible! :lol: ) and reverse the order of doing up the top mount and bearing etc.



You shouldn't need to compress the new spring to re-fit the strut so once you have tightened the top mount nut to 60NM you should be able to release the compressors and put to one side. Now you need to line up the strut again and re-connect the top of the strut to the car. Then Line up the bottom of the strut to the wheel bearing housing and slowly jack up the housing to push it in. Then reconnect everything! 



This is the guide i used to help me...

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87761

Very useful indeed, very much appreciate the guides on the forum!


----------



## NickG

I'm really happy with how the car sits now, much better than the 4x4 look of before!! :lol:

Also the freshly painted wheels have now been installed! 







I've definitely got some negative camber now, i will get the wheels aligned as best as possible without rear tie bars for now. I'm aware negative camber will wear down the tyres faster on the inside edge, but are there any other negative aspects? I always had it in my mind that a bit of negative camber will actually increase grip around the bends... am i misguided?


----------



## Ian_W

Looking good.

Did no one mention you can buy a handy hub spreader tool for about £8 that slots in, you turn with the ratchet and the shock pops out :lol:


----------



## NickG

Cheers pal! Yeah i saw this Saturday night after i'd finished the job! :lol: Don't know how well it would work but sounds like it could be an easier option!


----------



## anthony_839

looking good mate,

need to do my downpipe next then onto springs,

u got any more photos of how u did the downpipe that you can email me?

thanks


----------



## NickG

anthony_839 said:


> looking good mate,
> 
> need to do my downpipe next then onto springs,
> 
> u got any more photos of how u did the downpipe that you can email me?
> 
> thanks


Hi mate, i don't unfortunately, due to having issues i forgot to keep taking photos as i was being a mardy t*** instead :lol: Sorry!

If you attempt it though and get stuck on anything feel free to drop me a PM


----------



## anthony_839

cool thanks mate,

going to be doing it in a few weekend's time,

my problem is going to be do I get the 5mm chopped of and re-welded now before I go for the install or just elongate the holes....  lol

as I don't have any mates that can do it for me... lol


----------



## NickG

If you're on the Relentless groupbuy i'd be almost 99% sure you will want it chopping and re-welding. It would save you time to get it done first BUT i wouldn't like to be held accountable if you've managed to somehow get one thats been made correctly! If the car is your daily driver i would say you'd be brave to attempt this yourself if you need the car back together at the end of the day!


----------



## anthony_839

haha, yea its not reli a daily drive as I don't use it every day as get the train to work but it is my only car....

having a mec friend help fitting etc so that wont be too much of an issue its the chopping thing im worried about.  lol


----------



## roddy

you could have tried swaping the tie bars over as they are slightly different lengths but with same fitting and reduce the neg camber a little


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> you could have tried swaping the tie bars over as they are slightly different lengths but with same fitting and reduce the neg camber a little


I may well give that a go at some point!


----------



## NickG

*FMIC installation*

So this evening i started installation of the FMIC i purchased. Its the same as the HG motorsports intercooler, but i paid very little for it, so am making up the pipework and bracketry myself.

Definitely takes a lot of fiddling about to get the pipework to line-up, but eventually after about 4 hours she has been test mounted! Now ive removed the pipes ready to get a bead of weld around all of the edges for the silicone couplers, then she'll be ready to go! 

Not bad for a grand total of £125.00!





Just got to change the power steering pump hopefully tomorrow night, and she'll be ready for Wak!


----------



## brian1978

Is it just me or does this picture look almost fake 

Looks like a model.


----------



## NickG

brian1978 said:


> Is it just me or does this picture look almost fake
> 
> Looks like a model.


 :lol: :lol: The joys of an instagram filter right there!! I like having a play around with photo's, hoping to get an SLR for decent pictures at some point!


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just me or does this picture look almost fake
> 
> Looks like a model.
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: The joys of an instagram filter right there!! I like having a play around with photo's, hoping to get an SLR for decent pictures at some point!
Click to expand...

Yea it looks like it's 3 inch long, heres a pic of my new porche. :lol:


----------



## NickG

brian1978 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just me or does this picture look almost fake
> 
> Looks like a model.
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: The joys of an instagram filter right there!! I like having a play around with photo's, hoping to get an SLR for decent pictures at some point!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yea it looks like it's 3 inch long, heres a pic of my new porche. :lol:
Click to expand...

Haha!! Strong effort!!

You'd like this then Brian...

http://fstoppers.com/model-maker-tu...gic-life-like-images-on-a-200-point-and-shoot


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> brian1978 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it looks like it's 3 inch long, heres a pic of my new porche. :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha!! Strong effort!!
> 
> You'd like this then Brian...
> 
> http://fstoppers.com/model-maker-tu...gic-life-like-images-on-a-200-point-and-shoot
Click to expand...

Yea, I found it down the back of the couch earlier when I was hunting for my lost phone 

I think pugwash stole my spoiler :wink:


----------



## Nitrojosh

Hey Nick, looking good!

What's your insta username? Mines my forum name


----------



## NickG

Nitrojosh said:


> Hey Nick, looking good!
> 
> What's your insta username? Mines my forum name


Cheers man, definitely getting there!!

I've just followed you on there... did you have a Nighthawk black EP3 before the TT aswell!?


----------



## Nitrojosh

Found ya!

Yes I did funnily enough, all you need now is a scorpion catback and our tt engine mods match up haha!


----------



## NickG

Hahaha that's crazy!!! I think I'll be getting a custom system, but probably not this year to be honest!

Just finished changing the power steering pump, picked up a used one very close to home for £20 so hopefully this gets rid of the buzzing sound coming from the engine bay!! (I did the screwdriver to ear trick and I'm 95% that's what it was, that and also the last MOT certificate makes reference to a noisy power steering pump, so hopefully now cured!!)


----------



## adz556

ahhh projecTTrack......I see what you did there, because its a TT, you so witty my friend LOL

Next time though, face masks are required for cutting aluminium as that stuff is not pleasant in the face at speed from the grinder lol.


----------



## NickG

Well after finishing, yes FINISHING her off at the weekend, being April the 1st i taxed her and insured her tonight so she is now back on the road!!    

Didn't think this day would ever come, but i actually...

*DROVE HER TONIGHT!!!*

Not that i am excited about it or anything! :lol: Only done about 20 miles, and all at less than 3k revs until she is mapped... but boy was i smiling!!

Couldn't find any niggles yet, just need to add some fluid to the gearbox now that it will have worked its way through to the transfer box, and then shes ready to be Wak'd on saturday!


----------



## roddy

I would definatly think that CONGRATULATIONS are in order


----------



## J•RED

Wahey!! Well done mate!!!  got time to give it a shakedown before being Wakd as well, good stuff


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> I would definatly think that CONGRATULATIONS are in order


  Thanks bud, got there in the end hey!!



J•RED said:


> Wahey!! Well done mate!!!  got time to give it a shakedown before being Wakd as well, good stuff


Cheeeers, certainly is, was hoping a few runs to work this week but unfortunately not, site visits everyday! Oh well, there's always the evenings :twisted:


----------



## Nitrojosh

Roll on Saturday mate


----------



## Paulj100

Great to hear she's up and running again. Threads been a good read with cool write ups by yourself. All the best for Saturday matey you'll have have one hell of a cracking good drive home from Waks!

Paul


----------



## L33JSA

Good to see all the hard work coming together mate


----------



## NickG

Nitrojosh said:


> Roll on Saturday mate


Hell yeah!! You're booked in Sunday aren't you?!



Paulj100 said:


> Great to hear she's up and running again. Threads been a good read with cool write ups by yourself. All the best for Saturday matey you'll have have one hell of a cracking good drive home from Waks!
> 
> Paul


Thanks Paul!!  I'll continue the thread with any future updates, although the bank account says there will be fewer for a while!!



L33JSA said:


> Good to see all the hard work coming together mate


Thanks Lee, can't thank you enough, literally couldn't have done it without your vast amounts of help nudging me in the right direction!


----------



## Nitrojosh

NickG said:


> Nitrojosh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Roll on Saturday mate
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah!! You're booked in Sunday aren't you?!
> 
> 
> 
> Paulj100 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great to hear she's up and running again. Threads been a good read with cool write ups by yourself. All the best for Saturday matey you'll have have one hell of a cracking good drive home from Waks!
> 
> Paul
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Paul!!  I'll continue the thread with any future updates, although the bank account says there will be fewer for a while!!
> 
> 
> 
> L33JSA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see all the hard work coming together mate
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Lee, can't thank you enough, literally couldn't have done it without your vast amounts of help nudging me in the right direction!
Click to expand...

Saturday also mate


----------



## NickG

Sweet!! Going to be really interesting to compare results!!


----------



## mullum

Congrats nick well done 
I'd love one of those fmics but as I'd need someone else to fit it - it'd cost a lot more than £125 with all that work !


----------



## NickG

mullum said:


> Congrats nick well done
> I'd love one of those fmics but as I'd need someone else to fit it - it'd cost a lot more than £125 with all that work !


Thanks buddy!!  it was a bit of work, and it's not as good as having a kit, I've had to remove the headlight washers and a bit of bumper here and there... But at that price can't grumble!! Maybe get saving for a HG Motorsports one? Then should be DIY really!


----------



## Eadon

Glad to hear she's finally there dude!

Can we summarise what the final spec was :lol:


----------



## s3tt

When and where is it getting mapped. Sure i told you but please run it with n75 unplugged till its mapped and drive carefully not to over boost it.


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats nick well done
> I'd love one of those fmics but as I'd need someone else to fit it - it'd cost a lot more than £125 with all that work !
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks buddy!!  it was a bit of work, and it's not as good as having a kit, I've had to remove the headlight washers and a bit of bumper here and there... But at that price can't grumble!! Maybe get saving for a HG Motorsports one? Then should be DIY really!
Click to expand...

Have you deleted the washers altogether?


----------



## NickG

s3tt said:


> When and where is it getting mapped. Sure i told you but please run it with n75 unplugged till its mapped and drive carefully not to over boost it.


Saturday it is being mapped by wak buddy! You want it completely unplugged? Not a problem, I take it that stops any requests for boost then?



brian1978 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mullum said:
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats nick well done
> I'd love one of those fmics but as I'd need someone else to fit it - it'd cost a lot more than £125 with all that work !
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks buddy!!  it was a bit of work, and it's not as good as having a kit, I've had to remove the headlight washers and a bit of bumper here and there... But at that price can't grumble!! Maybe get saving for a HG Motorsports one? Then should be DIY really!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you deleted the washers altogether?
Click to expand...

Yep completely gone bud, there's no way there'll be refittable either... Hopefully a friendly MOT man!!


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> I take it that stops any requests for boost then?


It reduces the boost to only run actuator pressure, you'll probably have an uprated actuator which will only run at around 0.9BAR


----------



## NickG

Okay, so mini science lesson for me... The n75 controls the opening and closing of the waste gate right? So unplugging it means there is no pressure on the actuator so it will open sooner? (Just trying to improve my knowledge!)


----------



## L33JSA

The n75 controls the air that reaches the wastegate. So basically all the air will get to the wastegate straight away so it will open it sooner and thus the turbo will not produce as much boost.


----------



## NickG

Ahh okay im with you!

Dan has said to unplug the N75... do i unplug the electronic connection, or the vac line leading to the wastegate?


----------



## Nitrojosh

Electric connection mate. Life in the slow lane, that's what in doing until I see bill on Saturday


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> Dan has said to unplug the N75... do i unplug the electronic connection, or the vac line leading to the wastegate?


Definitely the electrical connection......have a think as to why you wouldnt want to remove the vac line to the wastegate after what I just said..... :wink:


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dan has said to unplug the N75... do i unplug the electronic connection, or the vac line leading to the wastegate?
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely the electrical connection......have a think as to why you wouldnt want to remove the vac line to the wastegate after what I just said..... :wink:
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: This must be like getting blood out of a stone for you Lee!!

Okay so Unplugging the N75 means that the BOOSTED air will get straight to the wastegate and open it?!

So it works opposite to the DV where by a vacuum is created to "suck" the valve open, this works off the pressure gradually "pushing" the wastegate open?


----------



## L33JSA

Your assumption is correct......on all 3 counts [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] :lol: :lol:


----------



## NickG

:lol: :lol: :lol:

The boy is learning!!


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> The boy is learning!!


So what happens if you disconnect the vac pipe off the actuator?


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> The boy is learning!!
> 
> 
> 
> So what happens if you disconnect the vac pipe off the actuator?
Click to expand...

Then it'll stay very closed and produce immense amounts of boost and blow up?! Maybe!? :?:


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

So if the actuator is weak, on a standard setup would that then mean that it would be lower than the 5-6 psi it should be when running n75 bypass? Because it takes less pressure to move a buggard spring?

Sorry to hijack thread just making sure i understand what im trying to learn here...

P.S. looking ace mate and cant wait to see your results!!


----------



## NickG

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Sorry to hijack thread just making sure i understand what im trying to learn here...
> 
> P.S. looking ace mate and cant wait to see your results!!


Not at all, good things to know right!! 

And thanks dude, Saturday can't come quick enough!


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> Then it'll stay very closed and produce immense amounts of boost and blow up?! Maybe!? :?:


Spot on!! 8) 8)



fixitagaintomoz said:


> So if the actuator is weak, on a standard setup would that then mean that it would be lower than the 5-6 psi it should be when running n75 bypass? Because it takes less pressure to move a buggard spring?


If the actuator is weak then the exhaust gases will be able to blow the wastegate open because the weak actuator won't be able to keep it shut thus running lower boost


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Then it'll stay very closed and produce immense amounts of boost and blow up?! Maybe!? :?:
> 
> 
> 
> Spot on!! 8) 8)
> 
> 
> 
> fixitagaintomoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> So if the actuator is weak, on a standard setup would that then mean that it would be lower than the 5-6 psi it should be when running n75 bypass? Because it takes less pressure to move a buggard spring?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If the actuator is weak then the exhaust gases will be able to blow the wastegate open because the weak actuator won't be able to keep it shut thus running lower boost
Click to expand...

gotcha


----------



## NickG

Tomorrow is Wak day!!!!!   

Just topped up the gearbox oil and checked the tyre pressures... I'm ready for this!

Finally gave her a bit of a wash down and try to get rid of the Saharan sands! :lol:

Will update tomorrow with how it goes, wish me luck!


----------



## mstew

Excited to see the results


----------



## Mondo

Don't forget the bacon sarnie, a packet of pork scratchings and a couple of beers. :roll:


----------



## NickG

Hahahah I'm not sure about that mondo!! :lol:


----------



## Nitrojosh

So what's the news then


----------



## mullum

Yeah, where's nick with the low down ?
Who was it was also going to get mapped with wak today ?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Must be out burning a tank or 2.......


----------



## NickG

Evening guys!!!

Well that was a long day, first off is like to thank wak for his hard work today (and putting up with me for TEN hours)!!

After a couple of issues he eventually managed to get a decent map loaded. After a couple of hours testing (very thorough which I like!) there were no boost leaks found!

Fitted the new injectors and then started her up with a base map and she was running awfully!! Idle was lumpy and horrible, very lean :? After a long time pondering the problems wak very kindly tool the fuel rail and injectors off his car to try on mine, and she idled perfectly! So we checked out the Bosch 630's and there was definitely a problem somewhere with these... After speaking to the supplier wak had the idea of trying a 550cc base map, and this again ran much much better! This leaves some investigation required for the specification of the injectors! Never the less we then ran abase run for logging, and after a few adjustments wak found that my fuel pump is on the way out, sagging as the revs increased rather then rising with boost pressure.

This needs to be replaced, along with a dodgy MAF sensor and then I'll be heading down for a tweak very soon! At the minute we are running approximately 315bhp!

And the drive home...WOW!!!! Not disappointed!!! WOW!!


----------



## NickG

Nitrojosh said:


> So what's the news then


How'd you get on dude??


----------



## Lollypop86

Did you take him a sarnie?  sounds like you had a fun day

J
Xx


----------



## NickG

Lollypop86 said:


> Did you take him a sarnie?  sounds like you had a fun day
> 
> J
> Xx


 :lol: I'm no fool Jessica, I did not! It was an interesting one, learnt a bit too!


----------



## Nitrojosh

Sounds awesome man, good figures too!!

Are you running Dans uprated actuator on a standard manifold?

Mine was called off, got either a gasket gone or a manifold split, so ordered up a manifold now. See my project thread lol

How's the clutch liking the new power? Jealous!!


----------



## L33JSA

NickG said:


> ....found that my fuel pump is on the way out, sagging as the revs increased rather then rising with boost pressure.


I've always been under the impression that the standard fuel pump is only good for around 300bhp....after that you need to run either an uprated one or an additional inline fuel pump.



NickG said:


> At the minute we are running approximately 315bhp!


That's pretty impressive to be fair!! Nice one!!!


----------



## roddy

315   ,,,,,i bet that was some drive home .. 8)  ( lucky lucky man )


----------



## NickG

Nitrojosh said:


> Sounds awesome man, good figures too!!
> 
> Are you running Dans uprated actuator on a standard manifold?
> 
> Mine was called off, got either a gasket gone or a manifold split, so ordered up a manifold now. See my project thread lol
> 
> How's the clutch liking the new power? Jealous!!


Yeah very good indeed! Will need to put it on a rolling road after it's been tweeted though!

I think I'm standard actuator and manifold!

Yeah I just saw that after writing! That sucks! Atleast if you're doing rods you can crank up that power, especially with a manifold too!!

And clutch is fine so far, should be, only done 200 miles so far! :lol:


----------



## NickG

L33JSA said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> ....found that my fuel pump is on the way out, sagging as the revs increased rather then rising with boost pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> I've always been under the impression that the standard fuel pump is only good for around 300bhp....after that you need to run either an uprated one or an additional inline fuel pump.
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> At the minute we are running approximately 315bhp!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's pretty impressive to be fair!! Nice one!!!
Click to expand...

Waks just said to replace it with a new one... It's done 140,000 miles so could probably do with one!

And thanks bud! It's obviously only an estimate from the MAF etc. but the feel of the car is incredible!!



roddy said:


> 315   ,,,,,i bet that was some drive home .. 8)  ( lucky lucky man )


It was bloody AWESOME!!! Boy does she pull, all the way through the range too!! Very very happy!!


----------



## mullum

Wow, result !

I was just about to buy some of the 630 injectors :-/


----------



## s3tt

Glad it's working and the injectors..


----------



## Mondo

315bhp?  Nice! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Now keep away from the RR day in a couple of weeks. :evil:

:lol:

Hmmm... what (sub)stage does that put you in? [smiley=gossip.gif] [smiley=book2.gif]

:roll:


----------



## NickG

s3tt said:


> Glad it's working and the injectors..


Yeaaah we got there in the end bud! Thanks again for the turbo, she's running good so far!! 



Mondo said:


> 315bhp?  Nice! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> Now keep away from the RR day in a couple of weeks. :evil:
> 
> :lol:
> 
> Hmmm... what (sub)stage does that put you in? [smiley=gossip.gif] [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> :roll:


Just estimated from MAF but yeah, hopefully be around that figure!

Definitely want to get down there if I can get her tweaked before then!


----------



## roddy

Nick,, great work and respect for you r perseverance. but do you not have any worries about putting that power throo an engine / box / drive train which has already 140k on the clock.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Bad news about the pump, on the plus side you know she'll be good for more than 315.... must be a very happy man! Shame you didnt get to drive her much in her standard state to compare the difference, but nevermind, youve worked hard on that car and are getting the results you deserve!


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> Nick,, great work and respect for you r perseverance. but do you not have any worries about putting that power throo an engine / box / drive train which has already 140k on the clock.


Thanks mate!! Ummm not really, there so much that has been changed on the car already, that almost half of the thing is new!
She won't be doing too many miles for the next couple of years, probably 2000 by the time I put her away for the winter, and maybe another 3000 next summer before my PLAN is to rebuild/get the engine rebuilt over the winter of 2014 anyway! And if the gearbox craps itself in the mean time, then so be it! :lol:


----------



## roddy

cheers mate,, I wish I had  315


----------



## NickG

In for an MOT today!!!

I like to think i know most of the car inside out by now, yet i still have that nervous will she/wont she feeling! Anyone else get that feeling when waiting for an MOT?!

Want her back now :lol:


----------



## s3tt

yes, mainly about emmssions... because its not something you can easily go home and fix! friendly mot man helps...


----------



## Nitrojosh

s3tt said:


> yes, mainly about emmssions... because its not something you can easily go home and fix! friendly mot man helps...


Especially when running a decat lol


----------



## NickG

Well she passed!!!   

Only one Minor... a blowing exhaust downpipe... that'll be the one i already have ready to change.... RESULT!


----------



## Eadon

So what was your spec for that magic number then?


----------



## NickG

Final Spec is as follows:


K&N S2000 Air filter
SFS 3" TIP
BBT Hybrid K04 Turbo (Billet Compressor wheel with RS6 Turbine wheel)
630cc Bosch Injectors
HG Motorsports Front Mounted intercooler ("Custom" pipework)
Relentless 3" Downpipe and decat

As said this is just an estimated power level from MAF readings etc. however hopefully seeing Wak again on 25th and if all goes to plan i'll be at R&R day on 26th!!


----------



## Eadon

Nice!

Fingers crossed you make it, get to see it in action then! 8)


----------



## NickG

Eadon said:


> Nice!
> 
> Fingers crossed you make it, get to see it in action then! 8)


Everything is crossed!! Picking up the new fuel pump and MAF sensor tonight so if all goes to plan with fitting these i'll be ready!


----------



## Nitrojosh

Ah, is yours not the baby hybrid then Nick?

Nice power output though man I bet it's great fun to drive!


----------



## NickG

Nitrojosh said:


> Ah, is yours not the baby hybrid then Nick?
> 
> Nice power output though man I bet it's great fun to drive!


I don't actually know what is classed as any more! :lol: 
I'm just sure it has a billet compressor and and RS6 turbine!

But yeahhhh she goes well!! Yours will be even better with rods and a manifold though!!


----------



## brian1978

NickG said:


> Well she passed!!!
> 
> Only one Minor... a blowing exhaust downpipe... that'll be the one i already have ready to change.... RESULT!


Firstly congrats on the figures. 315bhp sounds like an awesome result considering you still have more to do.

Secondly, im guessing the mot man didnt bother about the HID lights and no washers, or is it a case of if they are removed they dont fail?


----------



## NickG

Cheers Brian! 

Ummm they didn't say anything about them so i guess they either forgot to check or didn't care! :lol: To be fair they are very "friendly" to me anyway :wink:


----------



## NickG

*Fuel Pump and MAF sensor*

Well since WAK found that my MAF sensor was starting to fail and that my fuel pump was sagging i have ordered both! ECP for £215 ish with forum discount... not to shabby although cost i wasn't expecting 

Anyway, MAF was changed over in ECP carpark so i could get my rebate straight away... it still works so i guess thats sorted! :lol:

And today i done the fuel pump, took 2 hours max and isnt too bad of a job i guess, just a bit smelly! :lol:

Anyway, the battery is on charge (AGAIN... another new part required!) and i'll give her a try tomorrow and see if the new pump works! :?: Wish me luck! :lol: If all goes well im due to see Wak on 25th April to tweak the map now that she is fully ready!


----------



## s3tt

What issues did you see for the failing maf?


----------



## NickG

Wak just thought the power was low on a logging run, so we swapped it over with a brand new one he had and it read much closer to what's expected! It didn't completely fail or anything though!!


----------



## Kirbzz_11

RRday figures?? 300+ on paper????


----------



## NickG

Kirbzz_11 said:


> RRday figures?? 300+ on paper????


Hi mate, didn't get a chance to go to rolling road day, not this year! Not enough money due to the unexpected fuel pump etc. and also the car was sounding like an Audi TT-ractor thanks to a naff downpipe gasket...



All fixed now though and she sounds much better!

*Ready for my Euro Tour in...*



*1200 miles... 6 Days...

Amsterdam
Landgraaf
Cologne
& THE NÜRBURGRING*


----------



## jamman

Have a great time mate


----------



## Kirbzz_11

Ahhhhh enjoy !!!!


----------



## mullum

Have a good un ;-)

Wish I'd known you needed that gasket as I've got a spare here.


----------



## NickG

jamman said:


> Have a great time mate





Kirbzz_11 said:


> Ahhhhh enjoy !!!!


Cheers Guys! 



mullum said:


> Have a good un ;-)
> 
> Wish I'd known you needed that gasket as I've got a spare here.


Thanks bud, ah no way, thanks anyway dude, just relieved to have it all finished now!


----------



## brian1978

Enjoy the drive, id like to pretend im not jealous. ........ but I cant :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Bon voyage


----------



## NickG

Well i'm back and so is the TT!

1200 miles of trouble free motoring, which in a way absolutely amazes me, in a car that i've had in pieces and put back together myself! :lol:

An 8am ferry on the Tuesday gave us a nice cruise in the sunrise and a bit of chill out music



Once the other side of the Channel we began the drive to Amsterdam! With a quick stop off in Belgium for some fuel for the car and for us!



Parked up under the Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam and headed off on the tram into the city



I must confess i test drove another vehicle while in Amsterdam, but decided that you can have too much power...



:lol: :lol:

After Amsterdam we traveled down to Landgraff, Holland for a bit of Snowboarding in the 580m Indoor snow slope! This was pretty awesome!

The following day we drove to Cologne, Germany for a night, didnt manage to get any pics in cologne :?

and then... the next day... we travelled to.... THE NÜRBURGRING!!!


----------



## NickG

Unfortunately due to a serious incident i only managed to get one of my planned 4 laps in as the track was closed for some time!  Bit of a shame, but never the less i had an epic time and will definitely be going back!!

We did manage to get a different kind of track action in the evening, joining a group of German campers who led us to a point where we could walk on the track!!! :twisted:







All in all, an awesome roadtrip and very proud of my TT!!

I'll upload the lap video once its ready!


----------



## Callum-TT

Fantastic mate well done.


----------



## NickG

Callum-TT said:


> Fantastic mate well done.


Cheers dude!

I'm thinking next year we definitely need to arrange some sort of cruise over there for a weekend!


----------



## Callum-TT

NickG said:


> Callum-TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic mate well done.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers dude!
> 
> I'm thinking next year we definitely need to arrange some sort of cruise over there for a weekend!
Click to expand...

Now that is something we should sort.

The ring is definitely on my bucket list.


----------



## Matt B

Looks like an awesome trip 

At least you got to have a lap - when we went the first public laps were at 17:00 but I had to leave at 14:00 for the ferry [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## brian1978

Awesome m8, and good to have you back safe... 

Glad you got a lap in, its one lap more than 99.9% of car owners ever do :wink:


----------



## Kirbzz_11

NickG said:


> Callum-TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic mate well done.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers dude!
> 
> I'm thinking next year we definitely need to arrange some sort of cruise over there for a weekend!
Click to expand...

Count me in for a TTF on tour to the ring!!!


----------



## Peeunit

Looks fantastic mate. I did my first trip to the ring just less than a year ago, absolutely fantastic. Just the best experience. Glad your trip went without a hitch. Car is looking great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Ttf ring trip.... deffo up for that! Car is looking good mate, and must be built well if it survived a thrash round the ring and a mahoosive road trip!


----------



## BaueruTc

That was some trip you were on Nick. I would love to do something similar, And to get a blast round the track must have been awesome. Shame you never got the other three laps in! I presume they have a petrol station on site? :lol:

Depending on the time of year i could be up for a wee trip over next year. Always scared in case the car decided to go tits up in a foreign country though.

Your car is obviously running sweet after all the woes that you had with her at the start. Fair play to you mate and i hope you hold onto her for the foreseeable future! 8)


----------



## NickG

Cheers for all the kind comments guys!!

Looks like we will be able to get a group of us together for a trip next year then! Will start looking at planning towards the end of the year when its a bit closer and see what we can do! 

*The one lap...*






Filmed on a Toshiba Camileo X-sports using £4.39 eBay windscreen mount! 

A very slow lap by any standards, overtaken by everything and anything! But obviously i was expecting to have a few more, so was treating this as more of a sighter lap to learn a little bit and calm the nerves! Even so it was still AMAZING! Also from this one lap i discovered that coilovers are a must before i return, the big hills and troughs really show how soft my suspension is with the Amax springs, with the wheels rubbing a number of times! Also tyres that aren't ditchfinders would be nice! 

The BMW at the end looked like it had had a massive impact, the front windscreen was obliterated and there was damage to the roof. I hope the guy was ok, i know the air ambulance was called out, but hopefully he had recovered fast!


----------



## Peeunit

Looks good mate. I'd definatley be up for a trip to the ring, but you're right Coilys are a must.

My shocks are ar the end of their life I think, and Amax springs arent helping anything. How cool is the carousel though!!!


----------



## NickG

Peeunit said:


> Looks good mate. I'd definatley be up for a trip to the ring, but you're right Coilys are a must.
> 
> My shocks are ar the end of their life I think, and Amax springs arent helping anything. How cool is the carousel though!!!


Yeah mine too, do you get rubbing too?

The carousel was awesome!! I backed out of it as you can see, but i hit the smaller one later on! Very bumpy!! :lol:


----------



## Peeunit

No, I've seen you mention the rubbing, and no I don't get any. My fronts arent spaced at the moment though, so that could be why. Backs are out 20mm and never had any rubbing.... curious!!

15mm for the fronts are on the shopping list, but I'm going to wait till I'm paid.


----------



## NickG

Hmmm maybe i need to investigate this further, i'm not even running spacers yet... i now wonder exactly where i'm catching!


----------



## BaueruTc

What was rubbing front or back or maybe both?

I found when i had 20mm spacers on rear it was just catching on the plastic inner arches at the 12 o'clock position. No damage just sounded awful. Dropped to 15mm back and it very rarely scrubs now, Well unless i hit a very big pot hole. 

The fronts scrubbed on 15mm spacers, Again at 12 o'clock position. Turns out there is a single screw right at the top of the plastic inner arch which was causing the scrubbing on bumps. Simply by removing that one screw on either side at the front and its never scrubbed again from either front side.

I know your not running spacers yet but you are lowered so not sure what difference it will make at the front as i lowered and spaced mine at the same time so can only go by the effects afterwards.


----------



## NickG

Its mainly fronts i think, but there was a point where i'm sure all 4 scrubbed together! :lol:

Yeah i have seen that one in the centre looking a little suspect! I've not seen any damage as you say, its just a terrible noise, and obviously the harder you hit a bump the more likelihood that it could do serious damage!


----------



## Peeunit

Maybe your arch lining is missing a slip somewhere and sagging a little more? But it its all 4, probably not.

Maybe your bumpstops are b0llox'd and you've got too much travel?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Best bet is wheel off and look for scrape marks, my guess is inner lining rather than outer, and a 10mm/15mm spacer set up should see you right


----------



## L33JSA

Glad it all stayed together for you after all the hard work and effort mate.

Here's a vid of me in my Clio....managed to get it down to 8.48 after a couple more laps...


----------



## Paulj100

L33JSA said:


> Glad it all stayed together for you after all the hard work and effort mate.
> 
> Here's a vid of me in my Clio....managed to get it down to 8.48 after a couple more laps...


    that was awesome Lee 8)

Paul


----------



## NickG

*Cheddar Gorge*

A couple of weeks ago i purchased some 20mm Hubcentric bolt-on spacers for each corner. Fitted these on the Friday night before a weekend in Bath and Cheddar Gorge!

They make a huge difference to the looks and she's now looking a lot meaner! :twisted:

A few photo's from the visit to the Gorge...


----------



## NickG

*Santa Pod RWYB*

This weekend me and a few pals attended a Run What Ya Brung (RWYB) day over at Santa Pod Drag Strip.

Along with the TT, in our group, we had a Subaru Impreza running 350 BHP, a Lexus LS460 V8 which runs at 381 BHP (and weighs as much as a small boat!), a Mercedes Benz C55 AMG running 362 BHP with a V8 and finally an E-plate Mercedes S500 V8 which i have no idea on power for!

The day threw up a few surprises for me, I couldn't believe how quick the TT was off the line, nor could anyone else. She beat everything, including a 10 second Evo that was there... at least up to 60 feet! :lol: (Video evidence coming soon!). The final eighth of a mile was where people began to catch, where weight isn't as important as sheer power!

Gradually improved throughout the day from a 14.99 second 1/4 mile to a 14.27on the last run. Every run except the final one I had a passenger for and unfortunately I messed up the gear shift between 3rd and 4th on that run, if I hadn't then I'm confident I could have got very close to a 13-second time.

A few pics from the day&#8230;



My pal's Subaru (Very smart, if you forget its a Subaru! :lol: )





A Lexus doing a burnout!! :lol:





The all important times...



All in all a very fun day and very happy with how she's running!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cheddar gorge pics looking cool mate


----------



## NickG

Thanks dude, its a really nice area, wanted to stop every two minutes for photos! :lol:


----------



## NickG

The run versus the 10 second Evo!






As promised! :lol:


----------



## NoMark

NickG said:


> The run versus the 10 second Evo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As promised! :lol:


Looked like a jumped start to me! :roll: :lol:


----------



## NickG

NoMark said:


> Looked like a jumped start to me! :roll: :lol:


Superior reaction times i think you'll find! :wink:


----------



## roddy

excellent start mate but that evo is fast !!!!!


----------



## NickG

roddy said:


> excellent start mate but that evo is fast !!!!!


Thanks mate, you're not wrong, that evo was crazy fast and looked mean! :twisted:


----------



## brushwood69

looks great fun! Were you running ESP on or off? and do you have a sport haldex? I'm pushing 2.1s to 62ft on the Hillclimbs but found the ESP dropped this by a couple of tenths.


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> looks great fun! Were you running ESP on or off? and do you have a sport haldex? I'm pushing 2.1s to 62ft on the Hillclimbs but found the ESP dropped this by a couple of tenths.


It was a really fun day out and only £35 for the day! I was running with the ESP off and I'm on a standard Haldex controller. So when you say the ESP dropped this do you mean it was quicker with it on?!


----------



## brushwood69

Nope slower. I have a great big sticker on the dash saying "turn esp off" and in the previous event ran the first 2 with it on even with the reminder and was wondering what the problem was! The new haldex controller from HPA has a drag mode which as far as I can tell can switch the ration from 50:50 at zero ft to 100:0 at 60 ft or any combo you like apart from rear wheel drive only. (ordered mine last month just waiting for delivery)


----------



## NickG

Yeah that's what I thought! ESP just makes things worse at high speed driving! :lol:

I've been following the group buy, looks like a fantastic bit of kit at a great price, just too much money for me to get together in time for the group buy closing date. Hopefully will still be a fair price next year! Looking forward to seeing peoples reviews!


----------



## roddy

yep, i am also watching it,, but the post group buy is not prohibitally more expensive.


----------



## NickG

That was my thought too, maybe we can sort something out next year to combine postage or something!


----------



## roddy

that would be 8) nick but i will be ordering mine as soon as the others have received / fitted / tested theirs and hope that , despite one hold up after another and the uncertainty re the electrical fiting is cleared up, will be soon...


----------



## The Blue Bandit

NickG said:


> The run versus the 10 second Evo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As promised! :lol:


_... "Dude- you almost had him" ..._


----------



## NickG

The Blue Bandit said:


> _... "Dude- you almost had him" ..._


He genuinely had that sticker on his rear bumper too!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

*Hibernation for Winter*

Being winter and with me being relatively busy the poor TT has been off the road since early September and she's been left out in the cold unloved and untouched for nearly 4 months. 

I'm ashamed to say i didn't even do anything to prepare her, she was parked up and abandoned 

I am pleased to say however that after a night of battery re-charging and a check of all the fluids, today she started up first time... clearly she still loves me! Ran her up to temperature and had a little drive up and down the road (Private property) to free off the brakes and then gave her a quick rinse and wash too.

The plan in a couple of months is to stockpile a few bits to refresh the suspension, bushes, shocks and adjustable tiebars as well as possible new OEM Pads & Discs and then give her a few weeks of love and attention ready for the summer. Sitting ready in the garage are a few goodies and a full service kit inc. Haldex oil & filter ready to go too.

Who said these cars aren't reliable hey!?


----------



## fleckers

looks like a quick motor


----------



## NickG

She certainly goes! Hopefully be back on the road by mid to late March too, ready for some meets this year!


----------



## NickG

*Visual Ideas*

Well i'm just waiting for the last few parts ready for a suspension refresh, shouldn't be too long now! 

In the interim i've been learning some photoshop skills to keep me busy of an evening and have decided to have a play with the cars aesthetics going forward.

*As she sits now*


*As i want her to sit this summer*


*Beginnings of a race livery for the future?*


----------



## NickG

*Suspension Refresh*

After 6 months of neglect due to winter weather and moving house i have finally got a chance to crack on with the suspension refresh.

So now she has a new home and is finally garaged full time...



I've been stockpiling parts all winter and have the following ready to go or on order...



New Oil & Filter
ECS Magnetic Sump Plug
Haldex Filter, Oil & Drain plug
16mm Golf 4motion rear ARB with Superpro bushes
Powerflex Rear wishbone bushes
Powerflex Top mount bushes
Powerflex rear tie arms bushes
FK 4motion shocks all round
*
On order and awaiting delivery we have;*

Cookbots with superpro bush
Cookbots adjustable rear tie bars
Lemforder Tie Rods and Rod Ends

*Left to order;*

Lemforder Rear drop links
Lemforder Ball Joints
OEM Front Discs
Mintex M1144 pads
Top mount bearings & New nuts





Everything down there has definitely seen better days, hence refreshing the majority of it.

I spent this afternoon firstly getting her up on axle stands, getting the wheels off and then degreasing and wiping down as much as possible.

After that i have began the dismantling process. Both front wishbones are out, ready to be cleaned up, painted and the re-bushed. Both front shocks are almost ready to come out, just need to undo the top strut nuts which are a pain in the ass as the shock absorber arm spins freely and i don't have the right socket here at the minute. Instead started the process of dismantling the rear but then darkness set in.

Hoping to get the bits i need this week to hit it hard again next weekend, can't wait to have her back on the road


----------



## mullum

What/which springs?


----------



## NickG

Firstly, thanks for the info you've posted on these shocks mate!

I'm going to be re-using my Amax springs that are currently on my OEM shocks.


----------



## mullum

Ah yeah, that should be a nice setup, and no problem by the way  
Will you be changing the tie bar outer bushes?


----------



## NickG

I hope so, is that what you're running at the minute?

I haven't planned to at this stage, but will have a look at them and see how bad they are. To be honest in thinking of leaving the rear trailing arm bushes in the garage for now too, a lot of effort in my limited space I think!


----------



## mullum

Yeah, well I'm running apex springs and FK shocks (slightly firm, facelift height). Before that I was on FK springs and OEM shocks (firm, prefacelift height). My car won't go as low as other cars on these springs, and my sports cats don't like it being low anyway :-(
I still have the original rose joints in my outer tie bar mounts so I'm looking to change them before they seize and break my custom tie bars. Mine are the ones Keith had made a couple of years back. They're OEM bars modded to be adjustable. Anyway those bushes require a special too to fit and remove.


----------



## NickG

Ian_W said:


> Looking good.
> 
> Did no one mention you can buy a handy hub spreader tool for about £8 that slots in, you turn with the ratchet and the shock pops out :lol:


So you did!!! Almost a year to the day!!! :lol: A belated cheers!


----------



## mullum

Shock pops out? Bush?


----------



## Ian_W

NickG said:


> Ian_W said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> Did no one mention you can buy a handy hub spreader tool for about £8 that slots in, you turn with the ratchet and the shock pops out :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you did!!! Almost a year to the day!!! :lol: A belated cheers!
Click to expand...

You are welcome :lol:


----------



## Ian_W

mullum said:


> Shock pops out? Bush?


Shock absorber pops out of the hub assembly.


----------



## FreeRideSkier

Talking of TT Track Cars, mine is already for the 2015 race season!

New BBT turbo, Gen2 Mani, heat management, water meth, more front camber...










You may find some useful track related insights on my TT race car blog: http://audittracecarproject.blogspot.co.uk/

Cheers

Carl..


----------



## NickG

I love your project and keep reading updates!  keep it going please!!


----------



## mullum

Ian_W said:


> mullum said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shock pops out? Bush?
> 
> 
> 
> Shock absorber pops out of the hub assembly.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## NickG

Minor update: New Pagid front discs picked up today, new Mintex 1144 pads ordered (Thanks again VT). I also have picked up Lemforder Ball joints ready to install and the track rods and ends have arrived ready to switch.

The new front struts have now been assembled, with Amax springs and power flex top mounts, I like the yellow and purple colour scheme going on!



These are also re-installed. The old ball joints have been removed, £8 tool from machine mart done the job nicely! Track rod ends have been loosened ready to remove. I've been using Halfords Shock & Unlock spray in a can for most nuts and bolts, it's bloody brilliant I have to say!

Tonight I also pressed the old bushes out of the front wishbones, just need to remove the collars then they can be cleaned up and re-painted.

That's where I'm upto at the minute, I'll hopefully get the track rod ends changed over this weekend, then make a start on the rear.


----------



## NickG

Small bit of progress made this week, slow due to other commitments, but I have started to sandblast the wishbones ready to be re-painted!










That's about all at the minute, but will hopefully have more time this week to crack on!


----------



## jhoneyman

What paint are you going to use for the wishbones?

I used Hammerite and from experience use very light coats and build up then allow to cure properly.

I done mines last year and the paint has all peeled off - I was too eager to get them back on the car (New bushes etc..)


----------



## NickG

Thanks mate, advice much appreciated as I have hammerite to go on! We are considering spraying them as have some hammerite thinners to be used with a spray gun. A nice dust coat followed by a couple of slightly thicker coats after should hopefully do it then?

What did you do with the bush areas? Did you mask them off or just spray them and clean off afterwards? Same too the 3 areas where the ball joint nuts are?


----------



## jhoneyman

I actually left the old bush's in > then after painting replaced them with new ones.


----------



## NickG

I see, i decided to mask them up anyway, hopefully will be pressing the cookbots and rear powerflex bushes in tonight.


----------



## Von Twinzig

jhoneyman said:


> What paint are you going to use for the wishbones?
> 
> I used Hammerite.........
> 
> I done mines last year and the paint has all peeled off - I was too eager to get them back on the car (New bushes etc..)


I'll say again....I wouldn't use Hammerite to paint railings let alone car parts. I always use Rustoleum. Put on to it years ago by a metal coatings specialist. Never had any issues. My TT wishbones have a couple of thick coats on. If you want the full monty use epoxy paint. http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984/# .Virtually bulletproof.

VT


----------



## NickG

:lol: TERRIBLE timing thanks VT!!

I've just come out of the garage fresh from touching up my blue wishbones after pressing in the cookbots and powerflex bushes last night!










Never mind, if it stays on it does, if it doesn't, it doesn't and I'll strip them and do them again with something else!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Doh! :roll:

Fingers crossed for you Nick. 

VT


----------



## NickG

Thanks! 

Hopefully get them back on at the weekend, looking forward to feeling the improvement from these bushes and cookbots!


----------



## NickG

Small update...

The front wishbones are back on and all the front suspension bolts just require torquing to specification. I'm not going to change the front discs and pads straight away as i want to drive it for a bit to ensure everything feels okay, before i complete the Mintex pad bedding-in procedure.

I've also changed one rear tie bar and replaced with cookbot's adjustable bar, now i just need to change the other side, both rear shocks and then the new 4Motion ARB and shes ready for a small test drive. I'd hope i can get that all done in a good couple of hours, if all goes to plan!


----------



## NickG

Bit of an update now...

Picked up a set of Nankang NS2-R's in 120 soft compound for a ridiculous price delivered from Germany, so these have been fitted.










I also fitted the new passenger wing I bought from a breaker on eBay, again for an absolute steal! Yayyy, no more dent!!

Rear ARB has been fitted, not too bad a job at all and when jacking the car up now from the rear the wheels stay almost level when I'm sure they didn't before! Makes placing axel stands at lot easier!!

Both cookbots adjustable tie bars are now fitted, very good pieces of kit and I've adjust the rear to what I believe to be about 0 to -1 degree ready for alignment.

The car seems to sit a tiny bit lower on the new shocks, but this may be in my head, I'm not sure they'd make a difference to height realistically! From underneath she's now looking nice and refreshed anyway...










New OEM Front Discs were then fitted along with Mintex 1144 pads and new racing spec brake fluid. The bedding in process is essential with these pads, so was completed off the public roads.

I then had a problem with the car coughing and spluttering under boost, it really worried me as I was thinking major problems. After some helpful advice I investigated the issue which was believed to be related to fueling. Changed the fuel filter, been meaning to do that for months anyway, but this made no difference. I then started the process of removing the injectors, when I noticed the inlet manifold to fuel pressure regulator hose wasn't connected!!! Reconnected and back to normal! I don't know what caused the pipe to come off, but I'm happy the issue is rectified!

Final part of the update, bought a solid black rear balance off a fellow member, thanks for that, looks a lot better IMO anyway!










Hopefully in for an MOT next week followed by full alignment. I'll then be able to hopefully feel the real benefit of all these changes on the open roads!


----------



## mullum

Re alignment : will you set the rear camber at -1.10? I struggled to find an alignment garage who would do specific figures - they all wanted to do oem (ie whatever the machine said).


----------



## NickG

No should be going -2 deg all the way round, there's no reason for them not to go to specs you give them really.


----------



## mullum

Well there's some difference of opinion there. Be good if WAK could chime in, or anyone else who has -1.10 rear camber. Mine is set at that for extra grip, not saying -2.00 is wrong by any means. Just that geometry can be "custom" depending on requirements.
Just an FYI nick ;-)


----------



## NickG

Apologies, my poor English there. I meant I should be going -2 deg all round, as I'm using it primarily for the track. For a daily driver I would have guessed this would ruin the tyres very quickly and -1.10 might be a bit kinder to the tyres.


----------



## NickG

MOT passed!!! Woo hoo, she's officially road worthy again! Had a nice blast home too, those tyres are feeling SHHHTICKY!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Top job. I really rate these tyres too. I managed to spin up all 4 wheels in the damp the other night on the A14.......at 70 

Thought my clutch had gone. Went to the redline without increasing speed. Interesting experience. 

VT


----------



## NickG

:lol: Brilliant!

My first proper drive with them was this morning and it was chucking it down. Talk a baptism by fire!

Nice and dry for the drive home though and boy did she stick around the roundabouts!


----------



## NickG

So against all advice I've bought some new seats! :roll:



















I say against all advice, I know I should really have tried a few different seats, however I have been on a few longish journeys in a friends car with the same seats as these and they are comfy enough, nice and snug at least!

And for the price I couldn't really say no!! Should save some weight and provide a much snugger fit than those leather heated lumps!!


----------



## Rich196

They are loud look forward to seeing them installed. There is no way you can try a seat in the shop properly so it's always gonna be a bit of luck!


----------



## NickG

They're definitely... Blue!!

Yeah I think they'll be fine, for now at least they'll be a huge improvement!


----------



## NickG

Also with regards to installation on a previous thread I was discussing fabbing up some custom subframe system in order to keep the height lower than the 'off the shelf' subframes. Having had a good scan through Nem and Bisons build thread I noticed they have done this, which is exactly what I was thinking...



















Hope you don't mind the photo theft Nem 

My idea is similar but instead of side mounts for these seats I'm going to use cobra sliders to match the seats. Hopefully this will work and also be nice and low!!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Nick, can I ask a quick question? I seem to remember you used different lines for your water and oil lines to your hybrid turbo, that made fitting easier. What did you use and where from?


----------



## NickG

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Nick, can I ask a quick question? I seem to remember you used different lines for your water and oil lines to your hybrid turbo, that made fitting easier. What did you use and where from?


Hi mate, i used this one;

http://www.hosesolutions.co.uk/turbo-oil-feed-for-audi-1.8-turbo.html

Had no problems at all with it to date! 

I'm pretty sure i just re-used the OEM coolant hoses as they weren't clogged up or anything like the oil ones! Same goes for the oil return pipe as it's much larger diameter.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Cheers Nick- it's more about that one being more versatile, my new turbo may not sit in exactly the same position.... That's all I'm saying [smiley=end.gif]


----------



## NickG

Haha good luck! It's a hell of a lot easier then the hard OEM one, make sure you torque it up well too, man does that thing need to be toight!!


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Yeah no worries, it was all good on the refit with the k04 so it should be all good on the *********


----------



## 3TT3

NickG said:


> So against all advice I've bought some new seats! :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I say against all advice, I know I should really have tried a few different seats, however I have been on a few longish journeys in a friends car with the same seats as these and they are comfy enough, nice and snug at least!
> 
> And for £100 for the pair I couldn't really say no!! Should save some weight and provide a much snugger fit than those leather heated lumps!!


 they look like "blue ghosts"..in a good way of course .


----------



## NickG

They are very blue, I'll give you that!!

After stripping out an old seat I had a bit of a result! Having removed the seat, I found that it's an equally easy job to remove the sliders from the bottom, just a case of removing 4 torx bolts and 4 nuts. So I then mounted the runners back in the car, measured up, and these give brilliant mounting locations for the new base mounted seats, with the need for only a couple of brackets spanning left to right, using the old seat mounting fixing points!

So I've sent this off to the fabricator...










(Yeah, I'm no engineer, I'm fully aware!!)

Once they're back and provided they fit, I'll post some photos and maybe a more accurate drawing which others may find useful! If it works, I'll have sliding sub frames for aftermarket seats for the grand total of naff all (fabricator is a work contact so chucking them in on another job) however I would imagine these 4 brackets would be about £40 for joe public... Still a bargain!!


----------



## NickG

Another step completed this evening...



















Two 10 ohm 0.25w resistors wired in parallel, wired and glued into an airbag plug. Plugged them in, connected the battery and then started her up. No warning light showing. Result!!

Almost finished the drilling etc. of the brackets I've had fabricated, then should be installation time at the weekend.


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Glad you posted that pic- I was wondering where my airbag resistors needed to go!


----------



## NickG

One seat is now in, i'll save the pic until both are in, hopefully tomorrow evening.

A lot of weight was removed tonight, with 15.5kg of trim being removed from the rear... boot lid plastic trims, boot floor and all the plastic trims up until the door sill trims/upper door frame trims. Can't believe there was so much of it! CD Changer is still in place for now, as we've hopefully got one final roadtrip in her this year so want some music! There's a further 2kg removed from the triangular dash supports and knee pads. The spare wheel and toolkit i also weighed in at 19kg.

Seats weighed 21kg each without the sliders and are replaced with 7.4kg so another 27kg roughly saved from the change of seats. Not sure if i also mentioned the free 15kg of weight reduction hiding behind the bumper!! 

So that's a potential weight saving of 78.5kg overall since my trip to Santapod. When you consider on the one run i kicked the 57kg of girlfriend out of the car i shaved 0.3seconds of my best time of the day (Including a dodgy gear shift) it shows how much of a difference weight can make... and that's just in a straight line!

On top of that the full AC system was previously removed, the SAI pump, engine bay trims, as well as the rear seats has got to take the total closer to 150kg removed from standard if not more. I'm not sure where that leaves her from standard weight, i'd guess between 1250-1300kg?


----------



## NickG

Got the second seat in tonight and gave her a good Hoover and wipe down inside. I'm happy with how she looks for now, will need to get the heat gun and scrapers out soon and make a start on the bitumen.

I'll let the pics do the talking...


----------



## Von Twinzig

Great work Nick. Getting the bitumen off is a ballaching job, but worth it. I'm down to 1240kg now, but that's with the a/c, so you should be well on the way to a similar figure.

VT


----------



## NickG

Thanks VT 8)

I'm not looking forward to it, but it's definitely worthwhile, and if done carefully it seems the White patches don't look to unsightly, which is nice!

That'd be a nice figure to reach, I'll have to find somewhere to get her weighed properly rather than guessing at some point!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Thanks VT 8)
> 
> I'm not looking forward to it, but it's definitely worthwhile, and if done carefully it seems the White patches don't look to unsightly, which is nice!
> 
> That'd be a nice figure to reach, I'll have to find somewhere to get her weighed properly rather than guessing at some point!


Just find a public weighbridge. I use this one nr Alconbury.

GWT Farms Ltd
Weybridge Farm
Woolley Road
Alconbury
Huntingdon
Cambs
PE28 4HN

VT


----------



## NickG

I had no idea it was that easy to use/find a weighbridge! There a couple within 5 miles of home so I'll take a run over there early next month and see how we stand! Cheers!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Yep, simple. I use the Alconbury one as most of the time it's on and unmanned. Drive on, take a piccy of the scale screen showing the weight, drive off. 

VT


----------



## NickG

A busy day for my bank account today! 

Finally ordered a pair of guages, both 52mm Stack Gauges;

1) Mechanical Boost Gauge

2) Electric Oil Pressure Gauge (Along with remote relocation pipe and adapter)


Love the look of them, not too "Need for Speed"!

Also ordered a Wifi OBDII connector to link with the TrackAddict app on my iPhone, a tyre pressure gauge to take to the track and a 12v electric tyre pump for those all important adjustments.

Oh and i finally...

*BOOKED MY FIRST TRACKDAY!!*!    (Not that i'm excited much!)

20th July 2015 at BEford Autodrome. Can't wait. A bit more prep to do to the car before hand, but nothing too major!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Ooow, Stack! Had them on the last project car. Nice gear. 8)

TrackAddict....careful Nick. Track days are untimed and non-competitive. It invalidates the organisers insurance. If they catch you timing they will throw you out. Ditto anyone standing around trackside doing the same. Just a heads up.

VT


----------



## NickG

They look nice definitely!

It's not really lap timing that I wanted to see, it was more the cornering speeds, g-forces etc. that I wanted to monitor to pick up in areas for improvements, and also to make a nice overlay for the Video camera! Do you think it would be a problem if it was kept out of the way on track, e.g. In the glovebox or another cubby hole?


----------



## maltloaf

Regarding weigh bridges, many quarries have them as you enter site so you have to drive over them on your way in. You can drive in, turn around in the car park and drive out again.

I found out my Sprinter was overloaded like this one day even though my boss swore to me it wasn't


----------



## Von Twinzig

That should be fine. Guys have been using video to time laps for ages using the time codes away from the track. What they don't want you doing is using timing on the day to "race" other drivers.

This statement is in all their list of rules....

"No timekeeping or pace making of any sort is allowed on the track day."

VT


----------



## NickG

They perhaps won't mind then, I'll see what I can do that's discreet and go from there.

Another service item has been completed today, Haldex oil and filter change and plugged back up with a new bung. One job down, many more to go!


----------



## NickG

A little bit of a play today, decided to make the most of the weather and spray the front grills to bring them back to a proper black, not faded grey colour!! Also sprayed the Audi rings satin black as a bit of a change. I like them, I'm sure they're not everyone's taste however!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Very smart 8)

Mine came debadged, but been thinking I'd like some subtle "4 rings" on the car somewhere.

VT


----------



## 3TT3

The nurburg thing is gettin a bit old..
My grille is that orrible faded grey up close, altho I did paint the bottom bits.
The rear rings..I did try mine black(wrapped it) and it does look better on a darker grey but I still prefer the chrome.

You could stencil em out onto chrome wrap or any wrap really . Pia to do but slightly lighter than original fitting 

Id like a actual reading boost gauge myself!

Oh and after all the + comments  ...great work so far! :wink:


----------



## NickG

Extra points are awarded for it being a genuine Nurburgring sticker, applied at the Nurburgring, just after driving on said Nurburgring!

Thanks though, it's all coming together so far! Gauges should be in this/next week hopefully, ready for the trackday. Also heading over to the CSCC event at rockingham next weekend to see what that series is like, as a potential entrAnt in the future!


----------



## NickG

Well the gauges have now been mounted within the vents, they look awesome, but I'll let the pictures do the talking...





































The next job will be to wire them up!!

Also arriving in the post this week was my new extended towing eye, able to clear the FMIC pipe work as well as sit right out the front of the bumper...



















With a little bit of modification this should fit through the grill so that it can stay in place without looking terrible!

Also booked the 4 wheel alignment, she's going in Monday for this!


----------



## Roller Skate

Brilliant work as usual Nick .... now I want some.


----------



## NickG

Roller Skate said:


> Brilliant work as usual Nick .... now I want some.


Cheers dude! All I can say is, go get some!! :lol:


----------



## Roller Skate

NickG said:


> Roller Skate said:
> 
> 
> 
> Brilliant work as usual Nick .... now I want some.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers dude! All I can say is, go get some!! :lol:
Click to expand...

On it like Gromit. 8)


----------



## NickG

Another part of the puzzle in place today, Alignment has been done!










Not what I hoped for after various posts on here but completely understandable. The main issue preventing -2 degree camber all round is the ride height, after lowering 40mm the camber was crazy, but since I've removed close to 100kg recently the ride height has gone up considerably, pulling the camber back out!

Coilovers are on the list next, but this will be a winter project, so for now, this setup will be what it is!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Pretty good Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

When you go back next get the toe a little nearer zero it will make the car change direction quicker. Ultimately, if this was on a trailer you can make it really darty by running toe out. I tried it, but found it too tricky on our roads. It felt like an F1 car where you see them head on, coming down the straight jinking slightly from side to side. Hard work, so had mine dialled back to a few mins toe in (4' IIRC).

Nice bloke Frank. Does a great job.

VT


----------



## NickG

Definitely will look to bring this down in the next session, at least I have something fairly good for now!

Thanks again for the recommendation, Frank seems to be a top guy so will definitely be using him for alignment going forward!


----------



## cookbot

Yep, ditch the toe on the front, I'm running parallel and although it's a little twitchy I like it. How come you've gone for such a small camber?


----------



## NickG

As above really, we couldn't get anymore camber, it was fully maxed out at the front and affecting the toe too much at the rear! I need to get coilovers and lower her a lot more to bring the camber in further. I've already lowered 40mm and because of the weightloss I'm back up to basically standard ride height.

Might be tapping you up for another lovely set of adjustable bars over winter too, so toe can be adjusted better along with camber! 

I would say the toe will be neutralised too, it's a work in progress so we'll see how it goes!


----------



## cookbot

NickG said:


> As above really, we couldn't get anymore camber, it was fully maxed out at the front and affecting the toe too much at the rear! I need to get coilovers and lower her a lot more to bring the camber in further. I've already lowered 40mm and because of the weightloss I'm back up to basically standard ride height.
> 
> Might be tapping you up for another lovely set of adjustable bars over winter too, so toe can be adjusted better along with camber!
> 
> I would say the toe will be neutralised too, it's a work in progress so we'll see how it goes!


Either that or a set of the toe adjusting swing arm bushes. Would work out £130 less that way!


----------



## NickG

That could be an option, what the cost for a set of them?

I currently have standard powerflex trailing arm bushes sitting in my garage as i was too lazy to install for now, so could always sell these on.


----------



## cookbot

NickG said:


> That could be an option, what the cost for a set of them?
> 
> I currently have standard powerflex trailing arm bushes sitting in my garage as i was too lazy to install for now, so could always sell these on.


Her you go, cheaper than tie bars, but a bit more of a faff to set up.

http://www.cbauto-solutions.co.uk/#.../rear-trailing-arm,-front-bush-kit---spf2536k


----------



## Von Twinzig

I'm planning to fit another set of adjustable bars at the top to control rear toe Nick as Frank couldn't get my rear values exactly where I wanted them either.

VT


----------



## NickG

*Bedford Autodrome Trackday 20/7/2015*

Well at long last, she was finally put to her intended use on Monday, when i finally hit the track!!!

Along with a fantastic group of fellow forum dwellers, we attended an MSV day at Bedford Autodrome, a day thoroughly enjoyed by all!!

The car performed faultlessly all day, completing over 100 miles of track driving over the day! She didn't hiccup even once and i am extremely happy and to be honest, proud, of how she handles and how far i've brought her so far, with the help of a few friends and some fantastic advice and help from forum members, so a big thanks to all who have helped along the way!

Here are a few photos from the day, with videos to follow soon;


----------



## NickG

*Session 1*






*Session 2*






*Session 3*






*Session 4*






*Session 5*


----------



## Trig

I haven't read the whole thread but have you done anything about removing weight from the front of the car?
I find on country roads the front end of the car feels loads heavier than the back, throws the car out of balance, cant imagine what its like on a track, smoother I expect given roads are crap and tracks are, well a lot better surfaced...


----------



## NickG

Trig said:


> I haven't read the whole thread but have you done anything about removing weight from the front of the car?
> I find on country roads the front end of the car feels loads heavier than the back, throws the car out of balance, cant imagine what its like on a track, smoother I expect given roads are crap and tracks are, well a lot better surfaced...


A/C Removal, Heavy SMIC's replaced with ally FMIC, Secondary Air pump removal, Engine bay plastics (5kg+... every little helps!).

That's probably about 30-40kg at a guess, with the battery to be re-located into the boot at some stage too.

To be honest, on track i was impressed with how balanced the car felt, especially under heavy braking!


----------



## Rich196

how did you get on with oil temps? I assume you havent fitted a cooler yet. Mine used to get pretty hot on track before i put the cooler on.


----------



## NickG

I can't tell you about oil temps just yet. I have an oil pressure gauge almost ready to hook up, which I'm hoping will be useful going forward, but have nothing on oil temps.

Coolant temps were monitored closely and peaked at around 103 degrees, but half a lap of slowing down saw these drop back down to 90 ish.

Do you have an oil temp gauge then?


----------



## Rich196

NickG said:


> I can't tell you about oil temps just yet. I have an oil pressure gauge almost ready to hook up, which I'm hoping will be useful going forward, but have nothing on oil temps.
> 
> Coolant temps were monitored closely and peaked at around 103 degrees, but half a lap of slowing down saw these drop back down to 90 ish.
> 
> Do you have an oil temp gauge then?


I had a Liquid TT. When I did a how fast day in the wet, the car had no oil cooler but stage 1.5 I was getting oil temps of nearly 140. Whey too high. After that i installed an oil cooler and on a hot day at brands oil didnt get above 110 degrees.


----------



## jamman

Glad you had such a great time


----------



## NickG

jamman said:


> Glad you had such a great time


Cheers Jamman! Would hope to see you at the next one 



Rich196 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tell you about oil temps just yet. I have an oil pressure gauge almost ready to hook up, which I'm hoping will be useful going forward, but have nothing on oil temps.
> 
> Coolant temps were monitored closely and peaked at around 103 degrees, but half a lap of slowing down saw these drop back down to 90 ish.
> 
> Do you have an oil temp gauge then?
> 
> 
> 
> I had a Liquid TT. When I did a how fast day in the wet, the car had no oil cooler but stage 1.5 I was getting oil temps of nearly 140. Whey too high. After that i installed an oil cooler and on a hot day at brands oil didn't get above 110 degrees.
Click to expand...

I wasn't aware that Liquid could do that to be honest!

Oil cooler is in the plans anyway, probably a Mocal one, as i think going forward longer runs will mean pushing the limits in terms of Temperature. Am i right in saying as the oil gets hotter the oil pressure will go decrease too?


----------



## Rich196

NickG said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you had such a great time
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Jamman! Would hope to see you at the next one
> 
> 
> 
> Rich196 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can't tell you about oil temps just yet. I have an oil pressure gauge almost ready to hook up, which I'm hoping will be useful going forward, but have nothing on oil temps.
> 
> Coolant temps were monitored closely and peaked at around 103 degrees, but half a lap of slowing down saw these drop back down to 90 ish.
> 
> Do you have an oil temp gauge then?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I had a Liquid TT. When I did a how fast day in the wet, the car had no oil cooler but stage 1.5 I was getting oil temps of nearly 140. Whey too high. After that i installed an oil cooler and on a hot day at brands oil didn't get above 110 degrees.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wasn't aware that Liquid could do that to be honest!
> 
> Oil cooler is in the plans anyway, probably a Mocal one, as i think going forward longer runs will mean pushing the limits in terms of Temperature. Am i right in saying as the oil gets hotter the oil pressure will go decrease too?
Click to expand...

Liquid can monitor alot of sensors, good bit of kit!

I went for a mocal sandwich plate, which is thermostatic, and a mocal cooler.

http://s255.photobucket.com/user/Rich19 ... rt=3&o=291

http://s255.photobucket.com/user/Rich19 ... rt=3&o=293

I dont actually think I have got any fitted pics.

You are correct as oil gets warmer pressure drops as the oil gets thinner. I cant remember how much oil pressure you should have at the red line to be safe now...


----------



## NickG

That's almost exactly what i'm looking at, except in stealthy black 

Did you find it easy enough to fit?

I did see a post not so long ago where Hoggy stated the guidelines for oil pressure, but will have to do a search!



Hoggy said:


> Official pressures @ 80 degrees C. Idle 14.5 psi, 3000rpm 51-65 psi
> 
> Hoggy.


Also just checked and as mine is an APX it doesn't have an oil temperature sender even for Liquid... An excuse for another gauge eventually then :twisted:


----------



## Rich196

Yeh easy to fit especially with the stock smic stuff out the way. Just fit the sandwich plate to the filter housing. Then I mounted the oil coolers onto the top of the fmic brackets, and drilled holes in the plastic just below the slam panel to pass the hoses through.

Annoying about the liquid gauge though

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## brushwood69

Well done Nick looked a lot of fun, if I was closer I would have popped up. questions :-

1. Tyre pressures?
2. Lap times?
3. Next Mod to go quicker/handle better/stop sooner? (ha ha)

BW69


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> Well done Nick looked a lot of fun, if I was closer I would have popped up. questions :-
> 
> 1. Tyre pressures?
> 2. Lap times?
> 3. Next Mod to go quicker/handle better/stop sooner? (ha ha)
> 
> BW69


It was awesome!!

1.started with 40 hot on the front!! = oops!!
I think we moved to 33 front 30 rear hot... Much more playing to do. To be honest I'm not experienced enough to know what's good and bad yet! 
2. TBC... Still uploading the footage
3. Weight saving, weight saving and weight saving... Winter Coilovers and roll cage!


----------



## Rich196

NickG said:


> brushwood69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well done Nick looked a lot of fun, if I was closer I would have popped up. questions :-
> 
> 1. Tyre pressures?
> 2. Lap times?
> 3. Next Mod to go quicker/handle better/stop sooner? (ha ha)
> 
> BW69
> 
> 
> 
> It was awesome!!
> 
> 1.started with 40 hot on the front!! = oops!!
> I think we moved to 33 front 30 rear hot... Much more playing to do. To be honest I'm not experienced enough to know what's good and bad yet!
> 2. TBC... Still uploading the footage
> 3. Weight saving, weight saving and weight saving... Winter Coilovers and roll cage!
Click to expand...

Id look at bringing those pressure down, around 30 hot, look at the triangle on the side of the tyre to tell you if there is right pressure in them. I would also run more pressure in the rear than the front to aid not having to much understeer.

https://driver61.leadpages.net/f/13...-how-to-understand-optimise-and-go-faster.pdf

This is a good read for the basic's.


----------



## NickG

Thanks for that PDF, downloaded and will have a read later! 

Just to clarify you mean more pressure in the rear than the front?


----------



## Rich196

NickG said:


> Thanks for that PDF, downloaded and will have a read later!
> 
> Just to clarify you mean more pressure in the rear than the front?


Thats the one, im not awake this morning. Less "grip" at the rear will mean les understeer as you adjusting the balance of the car.

Other ways to adjust this are running rear dampers harder, than front, or running stiffer ARBs proportionally at the back to the one at the front.


----------



## NickG

Started the lovely task of removing the bitumen pads AKA more Audi weight this week!! Heatgun, plastic scrapers, blue roll and sticky stuff remover make this job a doddle compared to previous attempts on other cars!

I also can't believe how good the paintwork is below the pads, it doesn't leave the car looking like a mess...







Plenty more to go, but it's one of those jobs I'll plod with over the next few weeks!


----------



## NickG

Also finally got the Oil pressure gauge connected up this week!

First run once up to temp, 3000rpm at about 65psi... Spot on I would say! Happy days


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Looking good- just seems odd you are chasing the weight saving from that which is hard work, but you've left the multi changer in?


----------



## NickG

:lol: don't you start too!

It will be coming out, but in the scheme of things it's a 5 minute job that I'm putting off until winter on the off chance I take her for a final road trip out!

That being said, I do also have some sort of AUX input, so I could just use that! :lol:

Probably over winter the full head unit and speaker system will be coming out, neither are very useful on a track!


----------



## dazman

I don't envy you removing all the tar sound proofing mate it took me a full weekend to remove mine


----------



## NickG

dazman said:


> I don't envy you removing all the tar sound proofing mate it took me a full weekend to remove mine


If I'm honest, I'm not actually finding it that bad! As I said before, I helped do a scoob previously and that was a nightmare! Difficult to remove, fell apart, scratched the metal work, but the TT stuff comes off in massive lumps and only leaves the adhesive residue behind, very little tar!

A few more nights and I'll have the rear fully done I reackon!


----------



## KarlD

I just read through this build thread.

I'm pretty sure that NickG is actually a spambot. I've reported him to mods.


----------



## KarlD

dazman said:


> I don't envy you removing all the tar sound proofing mate it took me a full weekend to remove mine


The bitumen pads are really not that bad to shift using Nick's method. I was with him when he took the first pad off and was absolutely gob-smacked by how easy it looked. And indeed it is - I did half of my 2003 Cooper S today in about 2 hours.

The real pig in my car is all the seam sealer


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> I just read through this build thread.
> 
> I'm pretty sure that NickG is actually a spambot. I've reported him to mods.


Who is this guy?! :roll:



KarlD said:


> dazman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't envy you removing all the tar sound proofing mate it took me a full weekend to remove mine
> 
> 
> 
> The bitumen pads are really not that bad to shift using Nick's method. I was with him when he took the first pad off and was absolutely gob-smacked by how easy it looked. And indeed it is - I did half of my 2003 Cooper S today in about 2 hours.
> 
> The real pig in my car is all the seam sealer
Click to expand...

I think I owe you a day pretty soon to have a crack at that Seam sealer, what I lack in skill, I make up for in enthusiasm and determination... We'll get it done!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

KarlD said:


> I just read through this build thread.
> 
> I'm pretty sure that NickG is actually a spambot. I've reported him to mods.


I think he's just some novice in a hairdresser's car trying to make it fast :lol: :wink:


----------



## KarlD

Gonzalo1495 said:


> KarlD said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just read through this build thread.
> 
> I'm pretty sure that NickG is actually a spambot. I've reported him to mods.
> 
> 
> 
> I think he's just some novice in a hairdresser's car trying to make it fast :lol: :wink:
Click to expand...

Pfffft good luck with that! :lol:


----------



## NickG

I think it's pronounced "Rookie with raw talent".... Ill make the TT fast, you'll see! :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> I think it's pronounced "Rookie with raw talent".... Ill make the TT fast, you'll see! :lol:


Haha I have faith in you Nick  When you break the 400hp mark I'll mail you a cookie from the states!


----------



## NickG

Won't need 400 and don't really want it! Anyone can use power to go fast in a straight line, but that's not even half of it! We will focus on going fast around corners and under braking.










Google Colin McRae to find out he's one of the greatest rally drivers of all times! (Then YouTube rallying to find out what corners are!)

All that being said, I won't turn down a free cookie!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Won't need 400 and don't really want it! Anyone can use power to go fast in a straight line, but that's not even half of it! We will focus on going fast around corners and under braking.
> 
> 
> 
> Google Colin McRae to find out he's one of the greatest rally drivers of all times! (Then YouTube rallying to find out what corners are!)
> 
> All that being said, I won't turn down a free cookie!


I'm well familiarized with rallying, believe it or not just because I live in the USA does not mean I am American :wink:


----------



## NickG

In that case take it as a friendly reminder :wink: (love a bit of friendly banter so hope it's in good spirits) 

No but in seriousness, 400bhp would be lovely, but for a minimum 40 minute race that I'm aiming for, you need reliability, something I'm just not confident you can get from a Big Turbo Stroker build (without spending mega mega money!).

At the minute the plan will be to rebuild another 225 engine with forged parts, change to a high flow exhaust manifold, have the hybrid turbo rebuilt and then take what should be a reliable 330-340bhp. Oil cooler and probably a higher standard front mount intercooler to bring temps down as much as possible too.

That's the plan, let's see what happens!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> In that case take it as a friendly reminder :wink: (love a bit of friendly banter so hope it's in good spirits)
> 
> No but in seriousness, 400bhp would be lovely, but for a minimum 40 minute race that I'm aiming for, you need reliability, something I'm just not confident you can get from a Big Turbo Stroker build (without spending mega mega money!).
> 
> At the minute the plan will be to rebuild another 225 engine with forged parts, change to a high flow exhaust manifold, have the hybrid turbo rebuilt and then take what should be a reliable 330-340bhp. Oil cooler and probably a higher standard front mount intercooler to bring temps down as much as possible too.
> 
> That's the plan, let's see what happens!


Haha don't worry I love some banter as well 

It was my understanding Matt's stroker build was quite well made and reliable? at least to my understanding, maybe he hasn't posted any mishaps haha. 
I do understand though, crossing the 400bhp threshold is almost as expensive as buying a second TT. It's insane haha.

Well here's where you lost me, what makes you think that a forged engine could not reach 400bhp?! Especially if you already have a hybrid as well  
If you get the rods out of the way, and assuming your hybrid is more efficient than the K04, you should easily be in the upper 300's with a setup like that? You would need a very aggressive tune, advanced cooling (don't know if you have WMI), but seriously that set up should net you a LOT more than 330bhp if you get it mapped right. All of this is assuming you have fueling already taken care of (bigger injectors, intake pump or inline [eww]). 
Hell you should take a read of Max's thread honestly, 350hp on a stock motor (Rods went at 360 apparently), stock turbo. You can do it man!


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> In that case take it as a friendly reminder :wink: (love a bit of friendly banter so hope it's in good spirits)
> 
> No but in seriousness, 400bhp would be lovely, but for a minimum 40 minute race that I'm aiming for, you need reliability, something I'm just not confident you can get from a Big Turbo Stroker build (without spending mega mega money!).
> 
> At the minute the plan will be to rebuild another 225 engine with forged parts, change to a high flow exhaust manifold, have the hybrid turbo rebuilt and then take what should be a reliable 330-340bhp. Oil cooler and probably a higher standard front mount intercooler to bring temps down as much as possible too.
> 
> That's the plan, let's see what happens!
> 
> 
> 
> Haha don't worry I love some banter as well
> 
> It was my understanding Matt's stroker build was quite well made and reliable? at least to my understanding, maybe he hasn't posted any mishaps haha.
> I do understand though, crossing the 400bhp threshold is almost as expensive as buying a second TT. It's insane haha.
> 
> Well here's where you lost me, what makes you think that a forged engine could not reach 400bhp?! Especially if you already have a hybrid as well
> If you get the rods out of the way, and assuming your hybrid is more efficient than the K04, you should easily be in the upper 300's with a setup like that? You would need a very aggressive tune, advanced cooling (don't know if you have WMI), but seriously that set up should net you a LOT more than 330bhp if you get it mapped right. All of this is assuming you have fueling already taken care of (bigger injectors, intake pump or inline [eww]).
> Hell you should take a read of Max's thread honestly, 350hp on a stock motor (Rods went at 360 apparently), stock turbo. You can do it man!
Click to expand...

That's the thing, there's not that many to go by and from what i've seen there's a hell of a lot of work involved which unless you know the right people (As Matt does in Lee) it would cost a fortune. I've seen my Hybrid set-up with the addition of a high flow exhaust manifold hit 342bhp on the rollers, but i don't think it would go any more without WMI which i may or may not look at in the future. I'm already running 630cc injectors so these aren't an issue really. My 330bhp is a conservative and if you like "Safe" figure, i don't want to be running at an aggressive figure as it'll only cause issues during a hard race (To quote, to finish first, you first must finish!).

To be honest i don't know how you guys in the states are getting such high figures from standard setups... 350bhp from a standard Turbo just doesn't seem possible, no-one over here gets anywhere near that figure from that setup.


----------



## jamman

Nick you know our friends over the water like to claim bigger and better all the time :wink:

350 from a standard turbo on standard block etc etc isn't possible......

I caught about 15 minutes of WRC yesterday on Polska TV and sat there in disbelieve they are MENTAL.


----------



## jamman

PS I think you (Nick) are doing it just the right way, enjoy it for what it is and do what you can do for a reasonable sum
without breaking the bank.


----------



## NickG

I had heard that too...










They are nuts, i watch a lot of World Rally Cross too, although not as dangerous as pure rally, these guys are nutters, they go for gaps that never existed!



jamman said:


> PS I know you (Nick) are doing it just the right way, enjoy it for what it is and what you can do for a reasonable sum.


Thanks James, yep that's the plan anyway!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> Nick you know our friends over the water like to claim bigger and better all the time :wink:
> 
> 350 from a standard turbo on standard block etc etc isn't possible......
> 
> I caught about 15 minutes of WRC yesterday on Polska TV and sat there in disbelieve they are MENTAL.


You should go look at those dyno graphs that were posted jamman :roll: :wink:

@Nick: It's very possible, WMI will take you to were I'm talking about, and if you install it correctly and add counter measures for safety (and carry around some distilled water in your trunk haha), it is IMO pretty reliable. I'm just saying it, the only thing stopping you is yourself, not the money or the work, because honestly you're pretty much there already it seems. Just my opinions, I guess we 'mericans just have more knads than you guys do :lol:


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> I guess we 'mericans just talk more knads than you guys do :lol:


There you go adjusted it for you Gonz :wink:

I'm glad we have a couple of US TTs on board as it makes the place more interesting.


----------



## NickG

:lol: :lol: a bit of Diversity certainly livens things up!

Anyway, bar catastrophic failure, there'll be no power mods for a couple of years... I need seat time to become a better driver more importantly!


----------



## jamman

NickG said:


> :lol: :lol: a bit of Diversity certainly livens things up!
> 
> Anyway, bar catastrophic failure, there'll be no power mods for a couple of years... I need seat time to become a better driver more importantly!


This BIG STYLE

I remember the first "how fast" and we all got pretty much beaten by a bloke in a standard 225 S3 because he was abfarnetter driver and knew the track.


----------



## Madmax199

Wow, It's easy to have jokes and say "Americans" like to make big "claims". It is even easier to lay back and say, "this or that is not possible" because those around you that barely tried had miserable outcome.

I learned (from actually doing it) that it takes tons of sweat, busted knuckles, unhappy wife, sleepless nights, and dedication to get meaningful achievements. So, I'll let the numbers, RR figures, and time spent in development do the talking. But to be honest I'm curious who's really "Big Talk" and who's really blowing hot air while hiding behind a weak status quo? I bet if you showed those that claimed the world was flat the evidence we have today, they would still say impossible. Therefore, I don't have big hope that I'll convince everyone of the possibilities, but I'll put it out there for a fellow track TT'er. BTW, I have plenty more that I could've added, but at that point it would be just littering a good thread with redundant data.

Stock turbo (dip in the graph is from major spark blowout on the roller)



























Stock turbo clean run (at this point the factory clutch was starting to slip)
318 whp backed up by a 316 whp run. Here is an overlay of the two runs









More stock turbo RR data (always testing and trying things is how you get results...)


















Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid) 

















Now, this is when I entered the world of hybrids.



























Best hybrid numbers to date (but I'm just getting warmed up with making reliable power on this thing. More to come with an inlet cam, Standalone ECU, 3.5" exhaust, 1000 cc injectors, etc)

















OK, some videos for those still in disbelief:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_RITf5 ... e=youtu.be






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nqmI9S ... pp=desktop


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Merica' 1 - UK 0 :lol: :lol:

I agree Nick, I love some banter/diversity in this place, livens things up for sure.

To be completely honest, as I've been on both ends of the TT world since starting my journey with this thing, I've been on here and US forums the whole time, you euro guys take a very conservative approach to modding, which is fine as you guys have tighter regulations/MOT inspections and so forth. But you should not let that cloud your mind when factual data is being presented to you that stock hardware CAN be pushed further/ and aftermarket parts can be run (4bar fpr for instance)successfully than what forum mechanics will have you believe otherwise. Is modding in the states a bit more hardcore? Yes sure you can argue that and I would agree, I myself enjoy being on both forums because it helps me find a nice balance between reliability and maxing things to their limit. Just my thoughts and observations, there is no right side to this since people will do to their cars as they please and how they please depending on what they want.

Nick, that's completely respectable anywho, I'm half teasing you about going for more power. Track skills should ofc be your biggest objective ya noob


----------



## NickG

Thanks Max, some great info there. I'm not saying I don't believe it, I'm more wondering how you can get those figures from the stock K04! What supporting mods are you running to achieve that? As far as I'm aware I'm not struggling with fueling, so I'm more questioning what it would be that's restricting the set-ups over here.

Fair play to you for the amount of time and effort you h eclearly spent tuning her though!



Gonzalo1495 said:


> Merica' 1 - UK 0 :lol: :lol:
> 
> I agree Nick, I love some banter/diversity in this place, livens things up for sure.
> 
> To be completely honest, as I've been on both ends of the TT world since starting my journey with this thing, I've been on here and US forums the whole time, you euro guys take a very conservative approach to modding, which is fine as you guys have tighter regulations/MOT inspections and so forth. But you should not let that cloud your mind when factual data is being presented to you that stock hardware CAN be pushed further/ and aftermarket parts can be run (4bar fpr for instance)successfully than what forum mechanics will have you believe otherwise. Is modding in the states a bit more hardcore? Yes sure you can argue that and I would agree, I myself enjoy being on both forums because it helps me find a nice balance between reliability and maxing things to their limit. Just my thoughts and observations, there is no right side to this since people will do to their cars as they please and how they please depending on what they want.
> 
> Nick, that's completely respectable anywho, I'm half teasing you about going for more power. Track skills should ofc be your biggest objective ya noob


I would say there's perhaps a more reserved attitude towards tuning over here from the sound of it. My thought is that this comes down to cost. Buying anything engine internal related over here generally has to be imported, costing a great deal more and taking a long time. It's possible (not saying it is) but possible that the general view from mappers here is to provide safe maps, as mistakes cost such vast sums to rectify. Maybe in the states, parts are readily available at a better price and (again speculation) maybe labour for garages that work on modifications of performance cars is much lower, hence the risk factor is much lower?

If this is the case it would be very easy to see why power figures are lower generally speaking but also you would have to agree that there is a good reason for it. This would then explain the general attitude of "can't be done" where as what it really means is "won't be done other here".

But yes, I am a noob, and a self taught one at that, but I'm pretty happy with how it's going so far... Come back to me when I hit a barrier or blow the engine and remind me of this though! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Another question id ask, and this shows my complete lack of knowledge on the subject...

How can you run 28-30 psi through your turbo, where as mine runs at only 21psi?

What's restricting mine from being able to produce higher?

(Not saying I am looking to change, just trying to get my head around the theory!)


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Thanks Max, some great info there. I'm not saying I don't believe it, I'm more wondering how you can get those figures from the stock K04! What supporting mods are you running to achieve that? As far as I'm aware I'm not struggling with fueling, so I'm more questioning what it would be that's restricting the set-ups over here.
> 
> Fair play to you for the amount of time and effort you h eclearly spent tuning her though!


There is a thread floating around where I kind of went into details explaining the tuning philosophy and supporting mods required to make power on stock hardware (by that I mean turbo, manifold, internals). In a nutshell, you need:

Free air intake
Free exhaust (including high flow exhaust manifold)
Good air charge cooling (water injection easily solves that, but there are other methods)
Enough wastegate spring rate to support the bump in turbine/manifold backpressure (free mod available for that)
Strong DV that will not leak under elevated charge pressure
More boost
More timing (there is a limit) 
Appropriate fueling to support everything

The deal is that we tend to forget that we have forced induction cars. The more compressed air you can run through the motor (provided you have fuel to support it, and the air charge, EGT, and knock are kept in check), the more power we can make.

I have ran the stock turbo unrestricted as a test to see how much boost it can generate, it boosted 42 psi (was running a low restriction air-to-liquid intercooler at the time, so a more restrictive air-to-air intercooled car will see slightly less pressure generated). The point of the test was to know the physical limit of the compressor. From knowing this, the goal is always to get closer to the max compressing capacity of the hardware while keeping temperature, and detonation tamed.

The notion that there is a virtual fixed wall limit that these turbos can spin and operate at is totally forged by internet hearsay (actually there is a physical wall but that's what the test mentioned above demonstrated). Spinning a turbo at high speed has some drawbacks, compressors tend to generate a lot of heat at higher speed. The compression process will always be a split percentage betwen pressing air molecules together and generating heat. However, if you can create effective ways to cool down the heated compressed charge to usable levels, the sky is your limit (the rally community has made a science out this extracting mind-bending figures out standard hardware mandated by classing).

Theorical tuners that never get to try things will argue that running a turbo compressor outside of its ideal center islands is a waste. In real life (where things really happen) 20 psi is 20 psi, 30 psi is 30 psi, if the compressor can compress it, it's your job to create supporting mods to make used of that compressed air -- remember, forced induction.

Now the keyboard tuners will reply, "but making the compression process a more adiabatic one is inneficient. Well, the reality that tbey are ignoring is that cramming more pressure usually also brings more flow (up to a point). Say hypotetically you had two combo on the same turbo, one generating 15 psi and 25 lbs/min from a completely isothermal compression, and another making 30 psi and 30 lbs min (even if it's the at limit of the compressor's ability). Which one do you think will make more power provided that the charge can be cooled? The answer is obvious!

The same process used to take our cars from stock to a stage X, doesn't stop working because no effort is put into it. Provide the appropriate support and you can move from stage 2/3 to stage 4, stage 5, etc, until you reach the true physical limit of the hardware. My words of wisdom!!!


----------



## jamman

@Max just to clarify your best stock K04 numbers were a shade over 360lb/ft yes ? but the bhp on the left is cut/missing on one graph and the other is just under 300 correct ?

Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid) 









You're nothing to do with the mad max DVs that were doing the rounds a few years ago are you ?


----------



## brushwood69

Nick,

When I stuck my race engine in the tuners here were running mine at 29psi but we backed it off to 27psi until we put the hybrid in. The tuner who mapped the launch control in commented that he thought I had a hybrid already. Mine is just a new kkk04 and a wellycooler.

BW


----------



## Grahamstt

A few years ago (2010) APR did some tests at awesome running 2bar boost. They were achieving very high torque figures, around 350 lb/ft but it came in so severe stock internals were in danger. After a few test vehicles were mapped it all went quiet so nothing came of the testing. Things reverted back to producing safe mapping as not a lot of guys were uprating internals for the sake of the map.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Thanks Max, some great info there. I'm not saying I don't believe it, I'm more wondering how you can get those figures from the stock K04! What supporting mods are you running to achieve that? As far as I'm aware I'm not struggling with fueling, so I'm more questioning what it would be that's restricting the set-ups over here.
> 
> Fair play to you for the amount of time and effort you h eclearly spent tuning her though!
> 
> 
> 
> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Merica' 1 - UK 0 :lol: :lol:
> 
> I agree Nick, I love some banter/diversity in this place, livens things up for sure.
> 
> To be completely honest, as I've been on both ends of the TT world since starting my journey with this thing, I've been on here and US forums the whole time, you euro guys take a very conservative approach to modding, which is fine as you guys have tighter regulations/MOT inspections and so forth. But you should not let that cloud your mind when factual data is being presented to you that stock hardware CAN be pushed further/ and aftermarket parts can be run (4bar fpr for instance)successfully than what forum mechanics will have you believe otherwise. Is modding in the states a bit more hardcore? Yes sure you can argue that and I would agree, I myself enjoy being on both forums because it helps me find a nice balance between reliability and maxing things to their limit. Just my thoughts and observations, there is no right side to this since people will do to their cars as they please and how they please depending on what they want.
> 
> Nick, that's completely respectable anywho, I'm half teasing you about going for more power. Track skills should ofc be your biggest objective ya noob
> 
> 
> 
> I would say there's perhaps a more reserved attitude towards tuning over here from the sound of it. My thought is that this comes down to cost. Buying anything engine internal related over here generally has to be imported, costing a great deal more and taking a long time. It's possible (not saying it is) but possible that the general view from mappers here is to provide safe maps, as mistakes cost such vast sums to rectify. Maybe in the states, parts are readily available at a better price and (again speculation) maybe labour for garages that work on modifications of performance cars is much lower, hence the risk factor is much lower?
> 
> If this is the case it would be very easy to see why power figures are lower generally speaking but also you would have to agree that there is a good reason for it. This would then explain the general attitude of "can't be done" where as what it really means is "won't be done other here".
> 
> But yes, I am a noob, and a self taught one at that, but I'm pretty happy with how it's going so far... Come back to me when I hit a barrier or blow the engine and remind me of this though! :lol:
Click to expand...

Actually that's just speculation, considering we both don't know how much either's parts or labour costs are.

I will speculate that parts here are cheaper because from what I read on here, you guys seem to spend more money than you should on parts. So I will give you that, however rebuilding engines over here is a nightmare just the same. 
Most garages here (and I'm not talking specialists) charge $50 at bare minimum to $100 an hour. And if I took an engine to them to get rebuilt I would wind up in a specialist shop anyways because they would not do a very good job, not know the bolt torque specs etc. etc. I have yet to visit a specialist shop yet thankfully so I can't comment. Typically just to pull the engine you will be charged $1000 here labour, $1000 more for parts give or take?, and then $600 to drop the new one in. A buddy of mine did LSX engine swaps for YEARS, starting price would be $3,000 assuming nothing needed customization and so on.

I'm a self taught noob myself bro, I'm right there with you  


NickG said:


> Another question id ask, and this shows my complete lack of knowledge on the subject...
> 
> How can you run 28-30 psi through your turbo, where as mine runs at only 21psi?
> 
> What's restricting mine from being able to produce higher?
> 
> (Not saying I am looking to change, just trying to get my head around the theory!)


Your tune :roll: A setup like yours could EASILY, and I use that term specifically, EASILY run more boost. Your tune has taken the safe way out, and most likely held back on timing and boost in order to keep things "safe". Like I mentioned way earlier in your thread, why you are still in the low 300's is beyond me honestly man.



jamman said:


> @Max just to clarify your best stock K04 numbers were a shade over 360lb/ft yes ? but the bhp on the left is cut/missing on one graph and the other is just under 300 correct ?
> 
> Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're nothing to do with the mad max DVs that were doing the rounds a few years ago are you ?


That's him :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Grahamstt said:


> A few years ago (2010) APR did some tests at awesome running 2bar boost. They were achieving very high torque figures, around 350 lb/ft but it came in so severe stock internals were in danger. After a few test vehicles were mapped it all went quiet so nothing came of the testing. Things reverted back to producing safe mapping as not a lot of guys were uprating internals for the sake of the map.


Just wanted to address this, as it's a very good point. The turbo is capable of 2bar for sure. You will reach the mid 300s as stated, but again, you need a competent tuner who can address the torque and have it gradually increase in a safe manner versus coming on all at once (this is how your rods goes bye bye initially, once you try to surpass even that much lb/ft of torque no amount of smoothing will save them as many have experience).

Keep in mind, APR is not known for their aggressive tuning, at all lol. They would never in their right minds push a turbo to 90%+ efficiency. What happens if an intercooler pipe pops off, what happens if a gasket breaks while under that much boost, you can imagine why APR would not want law suits up and down the street because they can't account for the unknown if that makes sense. As a business you want to solidify your product and extract as much profit as possible within parameters that equate to low repercussions (returns, bad reviews etc.). Still very interesting to see they did that, and as it's been mentioned a butt load of times, if you sort fueling, cooling, and hardware you can push the turbo farther than you'd imagine safely (I consider my 24psi tune from GTS safe even).


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> @Max just to clarify your best stock K04 numbers were a shade over 360lb/ft yes ? but the bhp on the left is cut/missing on one graph and the other is just under 300 correct ?
> 
> Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're nothing to do with the mad max DVs that were doing the rounds a few years ago are you ?


Yes, the best stock number is about 360 wtq/300 whp on a load bearing Dyno (RR). Why would I consider these figures better than the 316 whp numbers I had on another RR before? Simply because they were recorded using different type of RR. The load bearing dynos (called heart-breakers here in the US) read significantly lower than their free-drum inertia style counterparts.

The valves you are talking about are adapted modified Mitsubishi evo valves that I started using on my TT years ago. People in the community started asking and inquiring about the process, so I made a DIY write up for people that wanted to try it for themselves. The community then started calling it the Madmax DV. After a while people that were not too confident in their ability to source and do the mod asked, so I provided the service.


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> Nick,
> 
> When I stuck my race engine in the tuners here were running mine at 29psi but we backed it off to 27psi until we put the hybrid in. The tuner who mapped the launch control in commented that he thought I had a hybrid already. Mine is just a new kkk04 and a wellycooler.
> 
> BW


That's very interesting BW!! So what BHP are you running at 27psi on a standard K04?!



Grahamstt said:


> A few years ago (2010) APR did some tests at awesome running 2bar boost. They were achieving very high torque figures, around 350 lb/ft but it came in so severe stock internals were in danger. After a few test vehicles were mapped it all went quiet so nothing came of the testing. Things reverted back to producing safe mapping as not a lot of guys were uprating internals for the sake of the map.


So essentially what we are saying is that if the internals are upgraded there's no reason why this setup couldn't have the boost ramped up and mapped on a rolling road by a competent mapper. Not even 2bar necessarily, maybe 1.8bar if that's 90% capacity? But that as I speculated earlier, it isn't frequently done in the UK due to safety concerns and the potential to bend rods on an unforced engine?

Does anyone disagree with that? (Again, I'm not saying I'm going to do it, not any time soon, but this is an interesting topic for the future!)

It's probably also worth contacting BBT and asking his opinion on what his hybrid turbo can take!


----------



## Madmax199

You got it right Nick, if the internals are upgraded there's no logical reason why the boost can't be bumped to a healthy 2 bar (which is far for maxing out a hybrid capable of pumping 2.8 bar). With adequate fueling, proper cooling and a competent software tuner, it will all work safely for years and years of abuse. You guys across the water need to stop thinking that these things are made out of glass, because they're not. Being conservative, and leaving an extra layer of safety is one thing, but there is also underusing the hardware. I showed what pushing near the limit is, find a happy medium between that and where the UK status quo is and you will be fine.

For example my solo tune is all out (400 WHP), but I have a circuit tune (360 WHP) that dials the boost down to 2 bar and that setup is safer than a stock car. You can run that hybrid like that at full tilt in an endurance race and it would mind. Through a 45 min race, I log zero knock, zero timing pull, low acceptable prolonged IAT, and super low sustained EGT for the entire session (although E85 has a lot to do in that).

My advise is to make sure you have good oil cooling, good air temperature control (a capable intercooler core, and/or water injection), plenty of fuel headroom, a competent tuner, and have the hardware pay for its meal. You're building a track TT!!!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Can we take this moment to appreciate that I was right for once :mrgreen:


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Can we take this moment to appreciate that I was right for once :mrgreen:


Hey, even a broken clock is right twice a day. Lol


----------



## jamman

Madmax199 said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Max just to clarify your best stock K04 numbers were a shade over 360lb/ft yes ? but the bhp on the left is cut/missing on one graph and the other is just under 300 correct ?
> 
> Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're nothing to do with the mad max DVs that were doing the rounds a few years ago are you ?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the best stock number is about 360 wtq/300 whp on a load bearing Dyno (RR). Why would I consider these figures better than the 316 whp numbers I had on another RR before? Simply because they were recorded using different type of RR. The load bearing dynos (called heart-breakers here in the US) read significantly lower than their free-drum inertia style counterparts.
> 
> The valves you are talking about are adapted modified Mitsubishi evo valves that I started using on my TT years ago. People in the community started asking and inquiring about the process, so I made a DIY write up for people that wanted to try it for themselves. The community then started calling it the Madmax DV. After a while people that were not too confident in their ability to source and do the mod asked, so I provided the service.
Click to expand...




Gonzalo1495 said:


> 350hp on a stock motor (Rods went at 360 apparently), stock turbo. You can do it man!


So I'm lost because the above statement is what I pulled Gonz up on in the first place because I said you can't get 350bhp out of a standard K04 and he said you had, I'm confused ?

With all due respect Max and you obviously know your stuff a user on here Damien did a group buy on that DV and everyone stopped using them because the things didn't work as they should so I will reserve judgement on that bit of kit, I don't want to go into it on here but that's what happened if you want more info I will PM you but I do believe Damien contacted you at the time.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Max just to clarify your best stock K04 numbers were a shade over 360lb/ft yes ? but the bhp on the left is cut/missing on one graph and the other is just under 300 correct ?
> 
> Best stock turbo numbers (at that point, I had the setup pretty solid)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're nothing to do with the mad max DVs that were doing the rounds a few years ago are you ?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the best stock number is about 360 wtq/300 whp on a load bearing Dyno (RR). Why would I consider these figures better than the 316 whp numbers I had on another RR before? Simply because they were recorded using different type of RR. The load bearing dynos (called heart-breakers here in the US) read significantly lower than their free-drum inertia style counterparts.
> 
> The valves you are talking about are adapted modified Mitsubishi evo valves that I started using on my TT years ago. People in the community started asking and inquiring about the process, so I made a DIY write up for people that wanted to try it for themselves. The community then started calling it the Madmax DV. After a while people that were not too confident in their ability to source and do the mod asked, so I provided the service.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 350hp on a stock motor (Rods went at 360 apparently), stock turbo. You can do it man!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I'm lost because the above statement is what I pulled Gonz up on in the first place because I said you can't get 350bhp out of a standard K04 and he said you had, I'm confused ?
> 
> With all due respect Max and you obviously know your stuff a user on here Damien did a group buy on that DV and everyone stopped using them because the things didn't work as they should so I will reserve judgement on that bit of kit, I don't want to go into it on here but that's what happened if you want more info I will PM you but I do believe Damien contacted you at the time.
Click to expand...

Mistook this graph for a stock turbo one, it is in fact a hybrid pull as I just checked:
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... mage_2.jpg
I think that's besides the point, considering 320hp to the wheels is something nobody on this forum has dared to do on a stock motor, and we are discussing the differences between the modding approach of two different spectrums. 320hp from 350hp is not a big gap considering the so called "limit" regarded on here is far less. But hey, in the end it's not our cars to decide how much power someone is comfortable running with and that's the bottom line I suppose. I guess knowledge really IS power :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 350hp on a stock motor (Rods went at 360 apparently), stock turbo. You can do it man!
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm lost because the above statement is what I pulled Gonz up on in the first place because I said you can't get 350bhp out of a standard K04 and he said you had, I'm confused ?
> 
> With all due respect Max and you obviously know your stuff a user on here Damien did a group buy on that DV and everyone stopped using them because the things didn't work as they should so I will reserve judgement on that bit of kit, I don't want to go into it on here but that's what happened if you want more info I will PM you but I do believe Damien contacted you at the time.
Click to expand...

Gonz made that statement, what I responded to is the idea of "Americans" liking to inflate what they can achieve. Since jokes were being made that we're all talk, I simply showed (with several RR figures) what I achieved on stock turbo, then hybrid turbo, but never said I made 350 WHP on the stock snail.

Do I think that 350 WHP is achievable on the stock turbo? It would take a lot, but with enough work I wouldn't say it's impossible. When I made those stock turbo numbers, I was still on the stock turbo induction hose, stock inlet manifold, stock exhaust manifold, and my exhaust was not as free flowing as it is nowadays. With these things optimized, bridging the gap from 318 WHP to 350 WHP would not be far fetched. The stock exhaust manifold is biggest choke point in the system and can easily free up 10 WHP alone, adding a high flow induction hose and inlet manifold are an easy 20 WHP, so definitely a realistic assessment to assume that a stock turbo car could get there.

As for the valve you can PM me if you want and we'll discuss it in details since I don't want to derail this thread with a totally foreign topic. But for the record, the valves as performance upgrades, are totally fine and work as intended. Another boogeyman philosophy made people on your side believe that they didn't work, but I know they do because I run them myself, and have fitted dozens myself in the US with the same results. Maybe there is lack of understanding on how a true performance DV operates, but as I said that's a topic that would need its own space to be properly discussed.


----------



## jamman

We can all hypothesise but it does still come down to the fact that no one has actually got 350 out of a stock snail on a stock engine which is all I was saying.

An old mate from here Tony R was running a SEM, straight through exhaust, WMI and a hell of a lot of boost on a standard k04 and still no where near 350 and indeed in the end killed the thing a lot latter than peeps predicted though (miss you tony :lol: )

I love the fact you are doing this in a roadster and I'm glad the you and Gonz are onboard it will make the place a far more interesting place.

I agree about the DV here isn't the time or place I just had a memory spark (which is rare)

PS Gonz I think that's 2-0 x


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> We can all hypothesise but it does still come down to the fact that no one has actually got 350 out of a stock snail on a stock engine which is all I was saying.
> 
> An old mate from here Tony R was running a SEM, straight through exhaust, WMI and a hell of a lot of boost on a standard k04 and still no where near 350 and indeed in the end killed the thing a lot latter than peeps predicted though (miss you tony :lol: )
> 
> I love the fact you are doing this in a roadster and I'm glad the you and Gonz are onboard it will make the place a far more interesting place.
> 
> I agree about the DV here isn't the time or place I just had a memory spark (which is rare)
> 
> PS Gonz I think that's 2-0 x


I agree 100%, assumption is the mother of all screw ups -- saying "it could" is always easier than actually getting it done (I know this way too well). You're getting me tempted though, a cheap used K04, give it all I've got and maybe with some luck get the glory. With all the extra mods, a standalone ECU that can do magical things, I might have the odds in my favor... Ok let me stop before I start taking the car apart just to prove a pointless point. Cheers!


----------



## jamman

:lol: :lol: You're welcome


----------



## NickG

Okay, so let's put some theory behind this as to why you guys think mine will produce more power, but why it isn't.

Here's the logging I have been provided (by the man who is commonly known to be the TT God)...










Now Fuelling stays at a pretty constant 3.1-3.2 bar throughout.
AFR stays just below 12:1 throughout.
And Boost level remains about 1.4 bar from about 3000rpm onwards.

Does this tell us anything as to potential? I remember the turbo supplier in discussion with the mapper stated the turbo should be run at 1.4 bar, so why might this be?

*Also just to clearly state, I am extremely happy with both Map and Turbo and in no way complaining... In my eyes the car feels bloody awesome and has done since it was mapped!*

Just trying to exploit the knowledge here and understand the theory!


----------



## Madmax199

I don't know if I can find many more ways to spin the same point I have been trying to make. Your fueling is on point with great pressure consistency, AFR profile is great as well. The problem is the boost profile is so tame that it makes me want to fall asleep.

If you could provide the injector period data (or even better if you know how to turn that into injector duty cycles), your IAT, your timing curve, and finally your timing correction through the rev range. With this data collection we can assess how much headroom you have to push things (I know you're barely scratching the surface, but we'll let the data do the talking).


----------



## hang your idols

This are the best numbers which i have seen for a stock K04 and injectors;the car has the following mods:4bar FPR,FMIC,3inch DP and exhaust.Maybe with WMI can put another 20hp or more.


----------



## Grahamstt

jamman said:


> We can all hypothesise but it does still come down to the fact that no one has actually got 350 out of a stock snail on a stock engine which is all I was saying.
> 
> An old mate from here Tony R was running a SEM, straight through exhaust, WMI and a hell of a lot of boost on a standard k04 and still no where near 350 and indeed in the end killed the thing a lot latter than peeps predicted though (miss you tony :lol: )
> 
> I love the fact you are doing this in a roadster and I'm glad the you and Gonz are onboard it will make the place a far more interesting place.
> 
> I agree about the DV here isn't the time or place I just had a memory spark (which is rare)
> 
> PS Gonz I think that's 2-0 x


Yes James it's Tony I was referring to.
A leon cupra r map was the one they were transferring to the TT but for some reason it was never put out for general use.
Using a larger turbo like yours usually allows a smoother increase of the torque to high figures that would normally sees off stock internals


----------



## NickG

Minor update...

Removed one more piece of sound deadening tonight, an hours work got me from to this;





I love how well the bodywork comes up beneath the pads! 

Tomorrow i'll be ordering some goodies, all will be revealed in due course! :twisted:


----------



## Madmax199

That looks amazingly clean Nick!


----------



## NickG

Cheers Max! It's not difficult work, just a bit boring, but I just do one bit every other day or so while listening to a good album and it'll soon be done! :lol:

The real key is "Sticky stuff remover"... Thanks VT!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Cheers Max! It's not difficult work, just a bit boring, but I just do one bit every other day or so while listening to a good album and it'll soon be done! :lol:
> 
> The real key is "Sticky stuff remover"... Thanks VT!!


Thank Mrs VT, she's used it for years to remove detritus from the pre-school children she taught. :lol:

VT


----------



## nate42

NickG said:


> Okay, so let's put some theory behind this as to why you guys think mine will produce more power, but why it isn't.
> 
> Here's the logging I have been provided (by the man who is commonly known to be the TT God)...
> 
> 
> 
> Now Fuelling stays at a pretty constant 3.1-3.2 bar throughout.
> AFR stays just below 12:1 throughout.
> And Boost level remains about 1.4 bar from about 3000rpm onwards.
> 
> Does this tell us anything as to potential? I remember the turbo supplier in discussion with the mapper stated the turbo should be run at 1.4 bar, so why might this be?
> 
> *Also just to clearly state, I am extremely happy with both Map and Turbo and in no way complaining... In my eyes the car feels bloody awesome and has done since it was mapped!*
> 
> Just trying to exploit the knowledge here and understand the theory!


AFR's good, could be a bit richer, that might help EGT's. Where is fuel pressure measured? If you have stock FPR that is 3bar your rail pressure should be 3bar + boost, so 4.4bar and on idle 2.2bar etc. With that amount of boost you should be able to get a lot of power.
Here is a pull with 1.4bar manifold pressure on FWD dyno (scroll down) viewtopic.php?f=2&t=231986&start=255 made 320whp

MAP pressure doesn't alone tell you how much air goes to cylinder, if you for example have restrictive backbox you are fighting against back pressure. 1.4bar with 0.15 bar back pressure comes to 1.25 bar of fresh air in the cylinder. Timing is big factor in power making, have you logged that over the rev range?

For track use keeping the temperatures down is much more important than last 20hp out from the engine. 2.7TT engine has bigger oil-coolant heat exchanger that might be useful and easy install same time as oil cooler. Thicker radiator is the last option, but should be fine with oil cooler.

Huge thumbs up, keep up the good work!


----------



## NickG

Thanks Nate, Very useful comments!

Noted your comments regarding back pressure, i'm on a 3" downpipe and Decat, but from there i am still using the OEM Cat-back system o this may be causing back pressure as you say. With regards to the oil cooler, i think i'll be investing in an external Mocal oil cooler with a thermostatic plate to really control temps.

Totally agree with you regarding safe temps, this is my priority over power for sure!


----------



## nate42

You are in the weight saving so probably ballast weight is already gone. Second big saving is OEM exhaust it REALLY heavy (probably because it's made from proper steel and would last for ever). Hunt Milltek or similar catback from ebay/sale section. You have 3" DP + decat, car will be loud if you have just back box. I recommend getting one with middle pipe silencer, I think resonated is what they call it at Milltek. Pipewerx used make nice 3" systems (Milltek is 2.75") don't know if they make them still.

Exhaust manifold and turbo itself also create back pressure. OEM exhaust manifold collector hole is smaller than a golf ball...

Mocal cooler and sandwich plate is a good combo. For hoses just make sure they can take oil up to 130C at least. I used just hose clamps and no fancy fittings on the oil cooler. No leaks so far (knocking on wood...)
The one I installed was very tight fit, should still build a scoop for it so that air can't go around it as it is tilted backwards a little. Installed also a fan that pulls air trough oil cooler.

How was the grip with Nankangs?


----------



## NickG

It's certainly on the list, however we may look at a custome system with the use of a CAT further down as some of the race series dictate that the car must have a cat. That's why as yet I've not looked at it... But it will be! Also the exams it manifold, I don't really want to go down the relentless tubular manifold route, they seem more hassle then they're worth and I need reliability! I believe Badger5 have a hi flow standard style manifold that I will probably investigate when the time comes!

I found the Nangkangs awesome, but I've only ever driven on mid range road tyres, so can't comment on how they compare to other track tyres! For the cost though, to me they are a fantastic choice as an entry level track tyre!


----------



## Madmax199

nate42 said:


> Mocal cooler and sandwich plate is a good combo. For hoses just make sure they can take oil up to 130C at least. I used just hose clamps and no fancy fittings on the oil cooler. No leaks so far (knocking on wood...)
> The one I installed was very tight fit, should still build a scoop for it so that air can't go around it as it is tilted backwards a little. Installed also a fan that pulls air trough oil cooler.


Good advice Nate! An external oil cooler is a great addition for any turbo car. And for cars that will see track action like Nick's, external oil coolers become an absolute requirement. I have done one in my car and the results were great. The coolant temperature never exceed 98 deg C now when they used to peg 109-113 deg C forcing me to have cool down laps (the oil dumps all of the extra heat into the coolant until it becomes saturated, then both raise gradually).

I would suggest for a track car to use high pressure/temp hoses and high pressure fittings. Some racing sanctioning bodies will not let a car with clamped-on oil cooler hoses to pass track inspection. Doing it right also provides added peace of mind. I would also recommend not going with a bigger oil/coolant exchanger if using an external cooler. The concept works fine by itself, but when used with a proper external oil cooler, the more divorced the two systems (oil and coolant) are, the better it is. Some people with full race cars even prefer totally divorcing oil and coolant, but for a street driven car, the exchange allow for faster warm up (especially when it gets cold). So keep the factory oil/coolant exchanger if adding an external cooler.

Used a mocal core, and high pressure/temp hose and fittings









In mine I also added a secondary remote filter mount. Allows for a second filter and more oil volume which help in longer races. 









Before stealth painting and adding a scoop. Also mounted it at an angle and trimmed the bumper to unblock the coooler









Like Nate proposed, I added an air shield with long bottom scoop around the external heat exchanger









And finally a collection of shorter oil filters that fits our thread size and pitch and offer enough filtration. The shorter filters comes in handy when using an oil cooler sandwich plate. The combo moves the standard oil filter too close to the intercooler cross tube (I run a FMIC but the factory SMIC cross tube is retained for its structural help and chassis rigidity).


----------



## nate42

Here is couple of pictures I found taken during the install.

Why more divorced systems are better? Oil always gets hotter than coolant when tracking a TT, so the way I see it is that heat exchanger is helping the oil cooler. Coolant radiator is massively bigger than oil cooler. If the oil gets to 130C and coolant stays at 90C there is 40C delta temperature between fluids. That helps already.

Oil gets warm slowly (here in Finland it's easy to see :lol: ) so heat exchanger is essential on a street car because of cold starts as you said. When engine is cold there also should be no flow through oil cooler. Pretty much all of them have some kind of thermostat.

Excellet tip those shorter filters! I've banged a dent to old air pipe to ease changing the filter. Also left that in place for rigidity.

PS. Those temperatures on your post above doesn't make sense... Normal coolant temp is 90 deg C.


----------



## NickG

Fantastic pics thanks guys, should help me when the time comes to buy and install!


----------



## Madmax199

nate42 said:


> Why more divorced systems are better? Oil always gets hotter than coolant when tracking a TT, so the way I see it is that heat exchanger is helping the oil cooler. Coolant radiator is massively bigger than oil cooler. If the oil gets to 130C and coolant stays at 90C there is 40C delta temperature between fluids. That helps already.
> 
> Oil gets warm slowly (here in Finland it's easy to see :lol: ) so heat exchanger is essential on a street car because of cold starts as you said. When engine is cold there also should be no flow through oil cooler. Pretty much all of them have some kind of thermostat.
> 
> Excellet tip those shorter filters! I've banged a dent to old air pipe to ease changing the filter. Also left that in place for rigidity.
> 
> PS. Those temperatures on your post above doesn't make sense... Normal coolant temp is 90 deg C.


My comment about totally divorcing the systems was for full dedicated race cars. The OEM oil/heat exchangers can and have failed, so just one less failure point when a properly sized external cooler can handle the load of the oil system by itself.

For oil warming purposes, as we know (I live in the snow belt of the US) keeping some form of oil/heat exchange is a good idea. The reason for not linking the systems more than needed (especially with an external oil cooler in place) is because the coolant seem to get overloaded with prolonged track abuse from the oil heat dumped into it. The oil system can quickly recover from being stuck in traffic for example (no clean air to the exchanger) -- the coolant system however, once soaked, only backing off and cool down laps will let it recover (running the head hot even for short period is how exhasut valves get dropped, head gasket blow, etc.). The factory oil/exchanger should be seen as oil-warmers not oil coolers.

PS: I have edited the typos on my previous post with proper coolant temp


----------



## KarlD

Did you say strap in or strap on?


----------



## NickG

Well i think that clarifies where the most effective weight saving can be had :lol:

Thanks for that :roll:


----------



## Grahamstt

Have you guys thought about using a V6 cross brace in place of the intercooler balance pipe.
It's much neater so gives more space. I haven't test fitted one but they look better when compared side by side.
I also considered making one using the original ends.
Has anyone tried this?


----------



## NickG

Not too sure i follow, do you have a link to a V6 example?

Cheers,


----------



## CollecTTor

Grahamstt said:


> Have you guys thought about using a V6 cross brace in place of the intercooler balance pipe.
> It's much neater so gives more space. I haven't test fitted one but they look better when compared side by side.
> I also considered making one using the original ends.
> Has anyone tried this?


I believe the V6 and 225 cross tube is the same. Are you sure they're different?


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Grahamstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you guys thought about using a V6 cross brace in place of the intercooler balance pipe.
> It's much neater so gives more space. I haven't test fitted one but they look better when compared side by side.
> I also considered making one using the original ends.
> Has anyone tried this?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the V6 and 225 cross tube is the same. Are you sure they're different?
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. At least US-spec V6 TTs came fitted with the 225 cross tube.


----------



## CollecTTor

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grahamstt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you guys thought about using a V6 cross brace in place of the intercooler balance pipe.
> It's much neater so gives more space. I haven't test fitted one but they look better when compared side by side.
> I also considered making one using the original ends.
> Has anyone tried this?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the V6 and 225 cross tube is the same. Are you sure they're different?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was thinking the same thing. At least US-spec V6 TTs came fitted with the 225 cross tube.
Click to expand...

:crickets:


----------



## Grahamstt

Here is a pic comparing the difference between the 225 balance pipe and the V6 cross brace








As you can see there isn't much difference but they are different, there might just be enough extra space.

I don't know if the 180 has the cross brace type?


----------



## NickG

Interesting! You've just given me another idea of fabbing another brace up to suit, I'm sure that could save weight and space!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Interesting! You've just given me another idea of fabbing another brace up to suit, I'm sure that could save weight and space!


Hitting the gym would save some weight and space too Nick :-*


----------



## Von Twinzig

Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting! You've just given me another idea of fabbing another brace up to suit, I'm sure that could save weight and space!
> 
> 
> 
> Hitting the gym would save some weight and space too Nick :-*
Click to expand...

My son owns a proper gym in Peterborough Nick, guaranteed to get you fit and lose weight......assuming you do as your told. 

http://www.hybridperformancetraining.co.uk/

Could probably get you a mates rates deal. I've been telling him for a while to put a driver's programme together. You could be the catalyst.

VT


----------



## Boruki

Don't know if it's because I was on my phone but I couldn't find much on his site about where the gym is?

I'm a PT myself, been looking for somewhere to get a bit of work in with the general public (rather than a mental health setting..).

I always got heavier from the gym.. Started out like the pink panther though!


----------



## CollecTTor

Grahamstt said:


> Here is a pic comparing the difference between the 225 balance pipe and the V6 cross brace
> 
> As you can see there isn't much difference but they are different, there might just be enough extra space.
> 
> I don't know if the 180 has the cross brace type?


Yes, my 180Q had the same as the 225, though it didn't use it for intercooling at all.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Boruki said:


> Don't know if it's because I was on my phone but I couldn't find much on his site about where the gym is?
> 
> I'm a PT myself, been looking for somewhere to get a bit of work in with the general public (rather than a mental health setting..).
> 
> I always got heavier from the gym.. Started out like the pink panther though!


Click on the "Contact us" tab at the top of the page. Address and map there.

He does rent time slots to other PT's. Give him a call and mention this place to him. Ask for Sam.

VT


----------



## Boruki

Ahh. He's not far from Frank's Autos. Cheers for that VT, I'll see how my interview goes tomorrow and if I mess up I'll see about renting for some PT time.

Apologies for thread theft... .


----------



## NickG

Couple of updates...

Unfortunately missed out on what should have been my 2nd trackday due to late arrival of my coilovers, BUT I do now have these sexy looking things installed...



GAZ gold with custom Spring rates (Gary Matic's finest product!) Even on the softest dampening setting the ride is so much firmer, bye bye ridiculous body roll!!

I also had a nice delivery today...





A pair of Motamec GP1's... Aka Mirco RS2's!! For an absolute BARGAIN price, FIA approved until 2020, they are so comfortable from first impressions!!! Can't wait to get these installed along with the TRS harnesses!!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Post a picture of them on the car :roll: :evil: :evil: :evil:


----------



## NickG

It looks the same!!!!!

These aren't for "lows" or "stance" or "hella-shit" they're for function on the track. She sits exactly the same as she did on FK shocks and lowering springs!


----------



## peartcart12

NickG said:


> It looks the same!!!!!
> 
> These aren't for "lows" or "stance" or "hella-shit" they're for function on the track. She sits exactly the same as she did on FK shocks and lowering springs!


Hi Nick, looking forward to your Gaz report when you have properly tried them out as i was looking at these, but bit shocked you cant decide your own ride height on them :?


----------



## NickG

Hi mate, ride height is fully adjustable, what I meant was I've set it to exactly the same as it was before on my previous setting (hence won't look any different in pics!).

I will review the kit once I've done the next trackday, could be a little while though, winter hibernation will be commencing shortly!


----------



## peartcart12

NickG said:


> Hi mate, ride height is fully adjustable, what I meant was I've set it to exactly the same as it was before on my previous setting (hence won't look any different in pics!).
> 
> I will review the kit once I've done the next trackday, could be a little while though, winter hibernation will be commencing shortly!


Ok Nick cheers, phew glad they are adjustable s


----------



## Large Package

Nick, I've been looking at seats with a little more lateral support that the oem offering (I'm always sliding from side to side when undertaking some spirited driving) and those look right on the money (although mine's a daily so I'd get some without the head restraint.

My question is, are seats like that accommodating for the 'portly' male? 

I'm thinking I might need to lose a few pounds to squeeze into one perhaps 

I'm hoping some seat manufacturers may offer a 'wideboy' variant :lol:


----------



## NickG

I'm a 34" waist and have plenty of room, I think they're supposed to be good for a 38" waist apparently!

Yeah as VT pointed out, these would be dangerous on a daily, junctions would be a nightmare!! :lol:


----------



## Large Package

NickG said:


> I'm a 34" waist and have plenty of room, I think they're supposed to be good for a 38" waist apparently!


Bugger [smiley=bigcry.gif]

:lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Coilovers and seats look great! Are they compression and rebound adjustable with one knob or does the knob only gives access to tweaking one curve independantly? The Gaz stuff looks great and sorted, I just wish the strut body didn't widen upward -- this will further limit the inner clearance for wide track wheel/tyres. Looking forward to hear your review on them!


----------



## NickG

Cheers Max, getting there slowly!

They're done on just the one knob, I think they have an option to upgrade to separate but for now it's expense I couldn't warrant... Still need driving lessons :lol: not too sure about clearance, I'll have a look when I'm next out to see how much more room there would be.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> It looks the same!!!!!
> 
> These aren't for "lows" or "stance" or "hella-shit" they're for function on the track. She sits exactly the same as she did on FK shocks and lowering springs!


I understand this, but I still want to see pictures of how the car has progressed. Maybe I should have specified lol.

Such a tease bro :-|


----------



## NickG

I suppose I'll give you a photo or two soon then :wink:


----------



## 1781cc

seats look good, beware of head height though, I had to take shims out of my runners (and I had to use runners for legroom because I am tall) - longer term I might trash the runners and go for a solid steel plate and a permanent fixture, I should be able to get another 2cm lower then.

Have you tried to test fit them in the car for space? what subframe/sides are you using?


----------



## NickG

Cheers! They're Mirco RS2's but with a different covering for some reason, they feel so comfy!!

I'll be fabbing something up for a permanent fixture... No short people driving the TT after that! :lol:


----------



## KarlD

What!!!!! I can't drive it??????


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> What!!!!! I can't drive it??????


Is says no short people, not uglies!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Large Package said:


> Nick, I've been looking at seats with a little more lateral support that the oem offering (I'm always sliding from side to side when undertaking some spirited driving) and those look right on the money (although mine's a daily so I'd get some without the head restraint.
> 
> My question is, are seats like that accommodating for the 'portly' male?
> 
> I'm thinking I might need to lose a few pounds to squeeze into one perhaps
> 
> I'm hoping some seat manufacturers may offer a 'wideboy' variant :lol:


Seats are so personal. As and when you decide you really want to pull the trigger spend a day at somewhere like Demon Tweeks and try out everything in the shop. And by try out I mean sit in your final two options for 20-30mins. Sounds daft, but it'll help avoid a numb bum or leg in the future.

VT


----------



## NickG

The front strip commenced today and boy did we get a surprise!!! I managed to find an original Audi TT brochure and inspected the additional options available as standard. Strangely enough, we didn't manage to find one particular extra in the list, so it must be OEM. The addition was.... A SWIMMING POOL!!! That's right, in the passenger footwell and seat area, on removal of the carpet was at least and inch of water!!! We must have removed best part of 2 litres of water along with whatever had soaked into the carpet.

Does anyone know a common area for water ingress, only in that area?!

Anyway, removed the carpets, tunnel plastics, glovebox and a couple of trims... Total weight removed today 25kg! (Plus the water weight) :lol:

Dead happy with that and now have more bitumin pads to remove before the new seats are installed. We've got plans to make subframes for the seats that should keep the seat height nice and low, if it works then I'll be able to fabricate some more if anyone is interested.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Not sure on the following, just throwing ideas out there for you Nick,

If whatever regulations that you are subjected to over there when you track the car allow for only 1 tow hook, you should consider removing the rear holder. It looks massive and feels like it too. 
While you're also there, I would consider removing the exhaust shield. I can't think of anything back there that could be harmed without the shield, especially if you do yourself a favor and get new hangers. Depends on your exhaust system too I suppose, since mine has no muffler, there's a lot of room between the very top of the underside and my exhaust piping.


----------



## NickG

Hi Gonz!

Indeed it is heavy that rear towing support and it has gone long ago, but thanks any way! I've got to find a way to mount a simple tow strap back there at some point, but the weight is saved for now!

RE: the exhaust. I'm still OEM cat-back at the minute which weighs loads, we did have a little discussion yesterday regarding what we may do with the exhaust, just got see if our idea is possible! The heat shield though weighs naff all, we're talking grams, I had it off when I changed the ARB and thought for the sake of 200g I'll leave it on for now, while the exhaust is OEM! Again cheers for the heads up though.


----------



## Matt B

NickG said:


> The front strip commenced today and boy did we get a surprise!!! I managed to find an original Audi TT brochure and inspected the additional options available as standard. Strangely enough, we didn't manage to find one particular extra in the list, so it must be OEM. The addition was.... A SWIMMING POOL!!! That's right, in the passenger footwell and seat area, on removal of the carpet was at least and inch of water!!! We must have removed best part of 2 litres of water along with whatever had soaked into the carpet.
> 
> Does anyone know a common area for water ingress, only in that area?!
> 
> Anyway, removed the carpets, tunnel plastics, glovebox and a couple of trims... Total weight removed today 25kg! (Plus the water weight) :lol:
> 
> Dead happy with that and now have more bitumin pads to remove before the new seats are installed. We've got plans to make subframes for the seats that should keep the seat height nice and low, if it works then I'll be able to fabricate some more if anyone is interested.


Would you believe - I took my carpet out yesterday too - and pretty much found the exact same water leak!!!! 
I think mine is coming from the grommet by the pollen filter as I have all the cables for the avcr shoved in there


----------



## jamman

Matt B said:


> Would you believe - I took my carpet out yesterday too - and pretty much found the exact same problem !!!!
> I think mine is coming from saliva amongst other things ......
> 
> I can't stop thinking about Pat Butcher.....


----------



## NickG

Matt B said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> The front strip commenced today and boy did we get a surprise!!! I managed to find an original Audi TT brochure and inspected the additional options available as standard. Strangely enough, we didn't manage to find one particular extra in the list, so it must be OEM. The addition was.... A SWIMMING POOL!!! That's right, in the passenger footwell and seat area, on removal of the carpet was at least and inch of water!!! We must have removed best part of 2 litres of water along with whatever had soaked into the carpet.
> 
> Does anyone know a common area for water ingress, only in that area?!
> 
> Anyway, removed the carpets, tunnel plastics, glovebox and a couple of trims... Total weight removed today 25kg! (Plus the water weight) :lol:
> 
> Dead happy with that and now have more bitumin pads to remove before the new seats are installed. We've got plans to make subframes for the seats that should keep the seat height nice and low, if it works then I'll be able to fabricate some more if anyone is interested.
> 
> 
> 
> Would you believe - I took my carpet out yesterday too - and pretty much found the exact same water leak!!!!
> I think mine is coming from the grommet by the pollen filter as I have all the cables for the avcr shoved in there
Click to expand...

That's not a bad shout, I think I have similar cables so could be the same issue!



jamman said:


> Matt B said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would you believe - I took my carpet out yesterday too - and pretty much found the exact same problem !!!!
> I think mine is coming from saliva amongst other things ......
> 
> I can't stop thinking about Pat Butcher.....
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Hi Gonz!
> 
> Indeed it is heavy that rear towing support and it has gone long ago, but thanks any way! I've got to find a way to mount a simple tow strap back there at some point, but the weight is saved for now!
> 
> RE: the exhaust. I'm still OEM cat-back at the minute which weighs loads, we did have a little discussion yesterday regarding what we may do with the exhaust, just got see if our idea is possible! The heat shield though weighs naff all, we're talking grams, I had it off when I changed the ARB and thought for the sake of 200g I'll leave it on for now, while the exhaust is OEM! Again cheers for the heads up though.


You're already ahead of the game haha :wink:

And I know it's a very light alloy, 200g was far less than what I expected it to weigh out to. I guess at that point may as well leave it on. Cheers for the info man!


----------



## NickG

Continued with a bit more stripping this weekend... Then removed some stuff from the car :wink: :wink:

Audio system is out, and KarlD has been let loose on the wiring loom...









Minor weight saving to be made, but major clutter saving is the real benefit. Airbag system is out, along with seatbelts and pre-tensioners.

I've been continuing with the laborious task of removing more tar... Yay.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nice, nice, nice Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Heads up, consider making a bracket by cutting up the centre console cage to support those two rear bolts on the selector otherwise it'll wiggle about....










VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Nice, nice, nice Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> Heads up, consider making a bracket by cutting up the centre console cage to support those two rear bolts on the selector otherwise it'll wiggle about....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VT


Already done and painted waiting to go on, another little VT trick is sitting waiting to go in too... Heated seat switch deletes!

A CHEERS is in order


----------



## NickG

More boring work completed this week...







Heating, scraping, heating, scraping, heating and scraping, scraping and heating. You'll get many tubs of this;



Then a nice helping of sticky stuff remover and a nail brush...



And eventually it will dazzle like this...



Anyone manage to remove the horrible foam sealer stuff that burns?!

Also done a test fit of the seat subframe brackets i had fabbed up. They fit perfectly, the sidemounts bolt on nicely and they sit 410mm apart, the same width as my seat mounting points. I don't see a way to go lower without cutting up the existing floor pan to be honest!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Still obsessed with weight reduction I see :lol:

What's she currently weighing in at Nick? Nice progress.


----------



## NickG

Yep, working it hard! No idea, but she'll be on the scales soon! Have to assume somewhere around 1250kg, a nice reduction!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Yep, working it hard! No idea, but she'll be on the scales soon! Have to assume somewhere around 1250kg, a nice reduction!


Really? I would expect with the work you've done to be way lower. With what little weight reduction I've done, I'm at 1315kg give or take slightly.


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, working it hard! No idea, but she'll be on the scales soon! Have to assume somewhere around 1250kg, a nice reduction!
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I would expect with the work you've done to be way lower. With what little weight reduction I've done, I'm at 1315kg give or take slightly.
Click to expand...

You guys are being very optimistic here. I would wait to get the car on a scale before making assumptions. For example, you're not getting a quattro TT to 1315 KG without some decent weight reduction work. :wink:


----------



## NickG

Standard kerb weight is 1465kg as far as I'm aware? What's 62l of fuel, 50kg?

So starting at 1415kg

A/C system 16kg
SAI system 2kg
Downpipe & Decat 5kg
FMIC (in lieu of 2xSMIC) 2kg
Engine plastics 5kg
Headlight washers deleted 1kg
Undertray Removed 2kg
Back seats 20kg
Parcel shelf 0.5kg
Front seats 22kg (11kg between only a new each)
Carpets 11kg
Head unit 1.5kg
Head unit surround 1kg
CD Changer 2.5kg
Rear Speakers 1kg
Dash supports 2kg
Steering Wheel 2kg (difference between old and new)
Glovebox 2kg
Rear Plastics & cover 5kg
Spare wheel & tools 18kg
Rear Ballast 16kg
Rear tow hook 2kg
Tunnel plastics 2kg
Sound deadening 6kg

147kg so far leaves 1268kg?

I've probably missed some stuff out too.

Still to do:
Front brake callipers - save 6kg
Lighter wheels - expect atleast 16kg overall (hopefully more)
More sound deadening - 4kg
Ceiling cover - 1kg?
Door cards - 6kg
Passenger Airbag - 5kg?
Lightweight battery - 6kg saving
Remove OEM backbox - 10kg?

Another 54kg leaves 1214kg before I do any work to lighten stuff. Like I say, this is just theoretical weight, but I'll hopefully get her on a weighbridge soon! I know VT's was at 1240kg last time he weighed in, so I don't think I'll be far off with my estimate!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, working it hard! No idea, but she'll be on the scales soon! Have to assume somewhere around 1250kg, a nice reduction!
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I would expect with the work you've done to be way lower. With what little weight reduction I've done, I'm at 1315kg give or take slightly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You guys are being very optimistic here. I would wait to get the car on a scale before making assumptions. For example, you're not getting a quattro TT to 1315 KG without some decent weight reduction work. :wink:
Click to expand...

Really? From what I've taken off the car, and parts I've swapped. I always throw it on the bathroom scale and compare. I have an entire service history for the past year + I've owned the car, and anytime I swap something out for aftermarket I jot down if there was any weight added or lost. Currently according to a stock 225 quattro, with the weight I've lost I'm at around 2950lbs, maybe 3000 realistically.

I've been hunting for a dump site that would be friendly enough to let me weigh my car, still searching lol.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Standard kerb weight is 1465kg as far as I'm aware?


Curb weight (coupe, roadster): FWD (2910lbs, 3054lbs), quattro (3208lbs, 3358lbs), 3.2 (3351lbs, 3500lbs)
Taken straight from the vortex/fortitude FAQ
Just a tad bit off, unless I did the kg to lb conversion wrong

Btw, if you get the same headlights as me, they're actually 5lbs lighter each :wink:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Triple posttt

Nick, what downpipe do you have? When I got my relentless downpipe, I recorded a 19lb lost (8kg) (I double checked since I sold the oem one and had to ship it, every lb counts lmao). :lol:


----------



## NickG

Ive updated, forgot about the exhaust back box that weighs at least 10kg, I have seen 20kg mentioned before but I like to be conservative!!

I've got a relentless downpipe and decat... I didn't compare weights so was just guessing! So another 3kg saved there then!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Ive updated, forgot about the exhaust back box that weighs at least 10kg, I have seen 20kg mentioned before but I like to be conservative!!
> 
> I've got a relentless downpipe and decat... I didn't compare weights so was just guessing! So another 3kg saved there then!


Yeah I figured your numbers were optimistic. That's better than thinking your car weighs 1000kg though lol. Much better


----------



## NickG

Pessimistic but yeah! :lol: I dont like to over estimate stuff and look like a tool! Hence why i call the car 300bhp+ not 315bhp or whatever! :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Pessimistic but yeah! :lol: I dont like to over estimate stuff and look like a tool! Hence why i call the car 300bhp+ not 315bhp or whatever! :lol:


It's been a long week brotha :lol: :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Not so much for you Nick, but Gonzy's estimated weight is on the happy side. To get a quattro TT from 3,250 lbs to 2,800 lbs range takes more than replacing standard parts, you need to start ditching quite a bit of stuff to get there. You are on the right track Nick, so is Gonzy but he needs to be more agreesive with weight reduction to get 2,800 lbs range.


----------



## NickG

I think 1200kg is a good target without having to go mental for now!

Then we'll be into the realms of lexan Windows, removing the window motors, removing the fan blower/heating matrix. Lightweight subframes and wishbones as per your recent posts. Lightening/removing the crashbars, wheel arch liners, dashboard support lightening/removal. Hell, for actual racing the passenger seat can come out and save another 8kg!

Gotta consider I'll be adding 40kg or roll cage in before I can go racing, but then I can remove a few more braces, gut the doors etc. to counteract this, maybe make it only a 30kg addition!


----------



## Von Twinzig

As has been said, guessing the weight from what you have removed is hopeless, you need to get the car on a calibrated public weighbridge or corner weights. Weigh the car with 5 miles or less showing on the computer.

Here's my last check after brake change and all the lower dash removed, but still with a/c (staying) and door cards (going).










My target for now is 1200kg or less with the a/c in place.

VT


----------



## NickG

Definitely not accurate, as a guide though I know it'll be close.

I did investigate my local weight bridge, it goes up a ramp that looks far to steep to get the TT on! :lol:

Must do another search for the next nearest one.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Not so much for you Nick, but Gonzy's estimated weight is on the happy side. To get a quattro TT from 3,250 lbs to 2,800 lbs range takes more than replacing standard parts, you need to start ditching quite a bit of stuff to get there. You are on the right track Nick, so is Gonzy but he needs to be more agreesive with weight reduction to get 2,800 lbs range.





Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, working it hard! No idea, but she'll be on the scales soon! Have to assume somewhere around 1250kg, a nice reduction!
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I would expect with the work you've done to be way lower. With what little weight reduction I've done, I'm at 1315kg  give or take slightly.
Click to expand...

That's not 2,800lbs. That's 2,900lbs. And a big difference as far as weight reduction lol. If anything I'm inbetween 3,000 and 2,900 lbs is my fair guess. Time will tell when I get it on the scale hopefully though


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Von Twinzig said:


> As has been said, guessing the weight from what you have removed is hopeless, you need to get the car on a calibrated public weighbridge or corner weights. Weigh the car with 5 miles or less showing on the computer.
> 
> Here's my last check after brake change and all the lower dash removed, but still with a/c (staying) and door cards (going).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My target for now is 1200kg or less with the a/c in place.
> 
> VT


awesome job VT


----------



## Von Twinzig

I thought so Gonzalo, but my ex F1 mate told me a bunch of stuff and then finished off by saying to call him again when I'd dumped another 90kg......oh, and I couldn't remove the a/c or heating! 

Kind of put things into perspective. :?

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Von Twinzig said:


> I thought so Gonzalo, but my ex F1 mate told me a bunch of stuff and then finished off by saying to call him again when I'd dumped another 90kg......oh, and I couldn't remove the a/c or heating!
> 
> Kind of put things into perspective. :?
> 
> VT


if you really want to impress him, start cutting off inner body panels, remove all the glass on the car, and add lightweight bars to maintain structural integrity :lol:


----------



## Von Twinzig

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> I thought so Gonzalo, but my ex F1 mate told me a bunch of stuff and then finished off by saying to call him again when I'd dumped another 90kg......oh, and I couldn't remove the a/c or heating!
> 
> Kind of put things into perspective. :?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> if you really want to impress him, start cutting off inner body panels, remove all the glass on the car, and add lightweight bars to maintain structural integrity :lol:
Click to expand...

He designed and built Barrichello's steering wheels when he drove for Ferrari and worked with Gordon Murray on the Maclaren F1 hypercar, he's hard to impress when it cones to shedding weight out of cars. 8)

VT


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> That's not 2,800lbs. That's 2,900lbs. And a big difference as far as weight reduction lol. If anything I'm inbetween 3,000 and 2,900 lbs is my fair guess. Time will tell when I get it on the scale hopefully though


Well if we're going down that road, it's 2,899 lbs which is still in the 2,8xx lbs range. Lol

I know it's just semantics and I'm busting chaps, but you get the point. :mrgreen:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's not 2,800lbs. That's 2,900lbs. And a big difference as far as weight reduction lol. If anything I'm inbetween 3,000 and 2,900 lbs is my fair guess. Time will tell when I get it on the scale hopefully though
> 
> 
> 
> Well if we're going down that road, it's 2,899 lbs which is still in the 2,8xx lbs range. Lol
> 
> I know it's just semantics and I'm busting chaps, but you get the point. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Hahaha, weight =/= E.T. times

I never understood why people run say, 11.8 seconds in the 1/4mile and then go around saying they did an 11sec pass. What's the purpose of it other than to delude yourself into thinking your car is faster than it is. (Rant not directed at you max lol)

And I know bro, I'd be insulted if you didn't!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Definitely not accurate, as a guide though I know it'll be close.
> 
> I did investigate my local weight bridge, it goes up a ramp that looks far to steep to get the TT on! :lol:
> 
> Must do another search for the next nearest one.


Just run out to the one nr Sawtry Nick, 15mins from where you work.

VT


----------



## NickG

*Update time...*

Kind of! More like a shopping basket full of goodies!

Not much progress has been made recently, due to the festive period stealing time and the dark nights closing in early! I have however managed to collect a few goodies, ready for next year...

New wheel, for lightweight and added grip for those sweaty hands...







A nice lightweight battery...



That should keep Gonz happy, made in U-S-A, U-S-A, U-S-A, U-S-A! 



Hoping to relocate this to somewhere around the passenger footwell/centre console area, and install an internal and external battery isolater as is required for competition use... kill to birds with one stone so to speak! Anyway, at 7kg it's over 6kg lighter then the standard one, can't grumble at that!

I've also stolen (I use the word loosely, they were a bargain!) a set of boxster front calipers from a breaker...





These will be dismantled, blasted, re-painted and re-assembled with new seals as required!

Nice even pad wear on the existing pads, so hopefully they're in decent working order...





As we all know, it's fast approaching that time of yeat for New Years resolutions and all that crap, so i'll let the picture to the talking...


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Now I am happy :lol: :wink:

Your new years resolution once you gut your car should be to up your boost though. :roll:

Banter aside, your TT is coming along nicely, I like the sparco wheel, eager to see what it looks like on the car.


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Now I am happy :lol: :wink:
> 
> Your new years resolution once you gut your car should be to up your boost though. :roll:
> 
> Banter aside, your TT is coming along nicely, I like the sparco wheel, eager to see what it looks like on the car.


Cheers Gonz, and long may the banter continue into 2016! 8)


----------



## NickG

The postman bought another piece of the puzzle today, they look good, hopefully they'll perform as good as they look!!!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORGE-UNOS-UN ... dAs_zVHkrA

Buy dis :-*


----------



## NickG

It's been a long while since an update - Mainly waiting for light and time to continue with the build (Or destruction at this stage!).

Today, i finally finished the labourious task of removing the bitumen panels from the car - A final weigh-in gives a total weight removed of 10kg... I can't grumble at that, for the sum of naff all and a bit of time!





With this job out the way i decided to perform a test fit on the Subframes and seats, which it turns out fit just about perfectly! (Mega shout out to Nem/BigBison for the idea of mounting the seats from their build thread) 8) The height's okay for now, plenty of room for me with a helmet on - this will need to be re-assessed after a cage is installed next year.



1781cc, i wouldn't mind seeing a few pics of how you ended up installing your seats, as i think you mentioned you managed to get them really low?

Anyway, seats in, steering wheel temporarily mounted and after a nice sit down i could confirm everything works, steering wheel is reachable and with the standard adjustable mounting point fully outstretched the wheel doesn't touch my knees. I'm not convinced about being able to reach a few buttons, but hey, that's part of the fun i guess! :lol: Now let the pics do some talking...











I've now got to just drill out a slightly larger slot in the sidemounts and i can install fully! I think i've figured out the Harness mounting points now too, one eyelet in the existing seat belt mount gives a perfect 45 degree angle, another will be mounted through the tunnel directly opposite and then i've figured out the 2 crotch straps now, i've located some thinner but longer mounts that will fit nicely up into the tunnels in the floor. Once these are in it'll be going to the guy whos going to fabricate a harness bar for me and then we'll be ready!

Also, the wiring loom needs a lot of work, this might just be tidied up temporarily, however ideally i want to remove a lot of the dead weight (Full Airbag system inc. ECU, radio system, CCM - need more info on how Max done this!). I also have the lightweight battery to relocate to the passenger footwell - Anyone have a how to guide for this? Also would like to take the opportunity to add a battery cut-off, again a how-to guide would be helpful!

In other news, i went full VT on my gearstick mounting - Cheers mate...



And i picked up a cheap set of 2nd hand unused TTRS brake ducts, for an extra bit of cooling (Wonder if they work). I'll install these at some point.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nice work Nick. Did you take the door cards off and remove the two pads on the inside of the door skins?

You'll need a battery cage to mount your lightweight jobbie. Plenty of choice, just pick one that suits your location.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... g-brackets

If you're planning some kind of motorsports in the future you might as well think ahead and mount your battery cut off switch externally through the scuttle. Simple enough, just check which side of the circuit requires breaking. Mine's just a simple battery isolator on the -ve side so I broke into the earth with an additional cable. Think you'll need to isolate/protect the alternator for MSA rules so on the +ve feed.

VT


----------



## NickG

That I have not! I was glaring at the door cards today deciding whether to have a look beneathe... And then decided to leave it be for now. It won't be long though until I'd like to take them off and cover over with a sheet of ally or something similar.

Battery cage I have, as recommended by Matt if I remember, nice and cheap but will serve its purpose. The relocation and cut off is above my skill level at the minute, I need to find a car that's been done and have a look around I think, especially as you say having to have an internal and external cut off, electronics isn't really a strong point of mine (it's barely even a point!).


----------



## Boruki

NickG said:


> That I have not! I was glaring at the door cards today deciding whether to have a look beneathe... And then decided to leave it be for now. It won't be long though until I'd like to take them off and cover over with a sheet of ally or something similar.
> 
> Battery cage I have, as recommended by Matt if I remember, nice and cheap but will serve its purpose. The relocation and cut off is above my skill level at the minute, I need to find a car that's been done and have a look around I think, especially as you say having to have an internal and external cut off, electronics isn't really a strong point of mine (it's barely even a point!).


I think you'll find this isn't as complicated as you're imagining Nick. If you look through the wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual or similar you'll get a rough idea pretty quick of what would need re-routing wirewise. I assume you're talking a mechanical cut off? Surely you'd just fit that in-line on the positive from the battery?

The hardest part would be trying to not add too much heavy cable for the new route, which would be a shame after you'd spent so much time reducing weight.


----------



## 1781cc

Nice work nick, looking lighter, cleaner

I think your seat bases look about as low as you can get mine have a full subframe and fixed mounts driver side, sliding mount passenger side, I gained just over an inch in headroom going fixed



I went a different route with the gearbox support as follows, looks weird, doesn't move though



If you take the dash out you can get to more stuff to remove, like the airbag harness mount, old alarm and on my car gps and tracker, gives much easier loom access as well - dash is peasy to remove

I got 3.2kg from harness and alarm gubbins


----------



## Madmax199

Nice work again Nick! As mentioned there is a lot more that can be removed under the dash, the doors create their own gravity that's how heavy they are in the TT. So this should be just the beginning. Sky is the limit!!!


----------



## NickG

I'll definitely be looking to attack the dash and doors at some point not too far away, at the minute I'm trying to get her back together as I'd like to get a track day in in April!


----------



## NickG

Okay, so lets try and figure this battery relocation out! 

The aim of the game is to get the battery into the passenger footwell area and in the process install 2 cut-offs, 1 internal, 1 external.

First lets tackle the relocation.

Am i right in saying that the negative terminal currently just goes back to the chassis beneath the battery tray? And this this can essentially be removed and wherever the battery ends up, i just need to run a cable from the new battery negative terminal to a clean connection on the chassis?



If that's right, then would i be correct in saying i then need to find a connection block of some description and connect the two cables that were previously going to the positive terminal and run a new cable from there, to the new battery in the passenger footwell?



If that's correct and that's all that needs to be done then happy days. I'll then just need to find a decent place to mount the mini fusebox that used to sit on top of the battery...



Please tell me that's correct and that i understand what i'm doing!!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Assuming the above is all correct then presumably (And to meet MSA guidelines that VT mentioned) i'll just need to install 2 cut-offs, both of which can go in the new cable that's been run from the existing positive terminal cables to the new positive terminal?

So what have people done for internal and particularly external cut-offs?

I guess what i'm saying is, let me see your switches guys!


----------



## Boruki

That was pretty much my thoughts Nick . Not as complicated as maybe first thought .


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> I'll definitely be looking to attack the dash and doors at some point not too far away, at the minute I'm trying to get her back together as I'd like to get a track day in in April!


Make it the 4th of April


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll definitely be looking to attack the dash and doors at some point not too far away, at the minute I'm trying to get her back together as I'd like to get a track day in in April!
> 
> 
> 
> Make it the 4th of April
Click to expand...

I want to, I'm not sure that my harness bar will be made in time though [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Rich196

NickG said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll definitely be looking to attack the dash and doors at some point not too far away, at the minute I'm trying to get her back together as I'd like to get a track day in in April!
> 
> 
> 
> Make it the 4th of April
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I want to, I'm not sure that my harness bar will be made in time though [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Click to expand...

Or the 7th at snetterton on the 7th


----------



## NickG

Definitely want a day at snetterton this year, it's a nice track!


----------



## 1781cc

I'll be up for snetterton this year, maybe a group track day? If it's July/August I'm guaranteed to attend as have two months off


----------



## NickG

That sounds like a good plan! I know VT is a fan of Snetterton too, so I'm sure we could get a decent group of us!


----------



## Rich196

Just book the 7th


----------



## mountbattencars

if you do a group thing im up for snetterton!


----------



## NickG

mountbattencars said:


> if you do a group thing im up for snetterton!


Awesome! Slowly gathering the interest then!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Chaps....I have my Dad's Memorial Trackday already booked at Snett 300 on August 17th. Deal done at £159. In the past It's been just my aircooled Porsche mates, but most of them are running other stuff now so all are welcome. _And_ I provide champagne at lunchtime, just a glass though as we're driving. 

I'll put a formal post up if you're interested.

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Chaps....I have my Dad's Memorial Trackday already booked at Snett 300 on August 17th. Deal done at £159. In the past It's been just my aircooled Porsche mates, but most of them are running other stuff now so all are welcome. _And_ I provide champagne at lunchtime, just a glass though as we're driving.
> 
> I'll put a formal post up if you're interested.
> 
> VT


I'd happily be up for that!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Rightyo, started a new thread in the Events section. All the details can be found there. It's a really good day with a great atmosphere.

Be brilliant to get some of the TT team running on the day.

VT


----------



## jamman

Not wanting to intrude but a bunch of us are going 2 June think Neil is going to post in the events section.


----------



## NickG

jamman said:


> Not wanting to intrude but a bunch of us are going 2 June think Neil is going to post in the events section.


Sounds like 2 days then! I'm wanting to hit 5 or 6 days this year so not a problem for me!


----------



## Von Twinzig

jamman said:


> Not wanting to intrude but a bunch of us are going 2 June think Neil is going to post in the events section.


Works for me.

VT


----------



## jamman

That's good to hear will make sure I prod Neil to post up details.

I know we have a discount down to £143 which is all good.

That's me even further back down the field, still have the infamous Damien to do battle with :lol:


----------



## NickG

jamman said:


> That's good to hear will make sure I prod Neil to post up details.
> 
> I know we have a discount down to £143 which is all good.
> 
> That's me even further back down the field, still have the infamous Damien to do battle with :lol:


I like the price, added to the calendar, will book once the post is live!


----------



## NickG

Small update today, even though it took most of the Bank Holiday Friday to do!

Harness Eyebolts are now in place, i'm dead chuffed with how it all came together in the end and excited to get the seats in!









Drilled through and then riveted with my Awesome Black PPC Alumnium Rivets (Awesome because they were free from a supplier!)

The Seat Subframes have also been drilled to the right position and so i could start installing these, however i haven't just yet as i've taken on another project internally...



I've posted about the dash separately, as i would like to know what weight is hiding where and get this all done tomorrow! (As said in that post, i wish i had bought the lightweight heating matrix, but hey i'll just have to do this another day!) With the dash out it should be easier to route the cable for the battery relocation.

I've also started stripping the wiring out where i can. Would you believe the cables from the CD changer and rear passenger speaker back to the stereo weighed 0.5kg! Theres going to be plenty of kg's to lose from the wiring harness at this rate!

Tomorrow i'll hopefully also;


Swap my rear springs over (I had GAZ make me a set that are a bit shorter as the drop wasn't great and i couldn't get the adjusters in!)

Remove the rear archliners and clean up (Save some weight)

Fit the new tow strap at the rear (Thanks for the idea Max!)

Wish me luck!


----------



## Von Twinzig

What lb/kg springs did you go for Nick? The choice, particularly at the rear, seems pretty limited. I too couldn't get my rear shims in, which makes proper corner weighting impossible.

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> What lb/kg springs did you go for Nick? The choice, particularly at the rear, seems pretty limited. I too couldn't get my rear shims in, which makes proper corner weighting impossible.
> 
> VT


500lbs fronts and 800lbs rears! The springs that GAZ sent originally are about the right height, but without the adjusters in, so they've sent the smallest they could do now, which should be about an inch and half shorter so that I can get the adjuster in - like you say, for corner weighting it's a necessity, hence why I've tried hard to solve the problem.

If you speak to GAZ I'm sure they can sort you out with rear springs in whatever stiffness you want and it's surprisingly cheap, I think mine were £80 delivered for the pair iirc! I'd say they might ask you to send yours in so that they can make sure they are providing shorter ones too!


----------



## jamman

Nick good work but keep an eye on the fuel line because it might get a bit of damage from the metal nut being against it, having said that might just be the picture I'm not sure.


----------



## 1781cc

you can probably save 300g from ripping out that sound deadening material on the bulkhead - thats what I did :lol:

How did you terminate all the stereo power feeds? trace back to fusebox or cut and terminate?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> you can probably save 300g from ripping out that sound deadening material on the bulkhead - thats what I did :lol:
> 
> How did you terminate all the stereo power feeds? trace back to fusebox or cut and terminate?


At the minute I've literally just cut them all off just before they reach the main loom and taped off, but this is only temporary until my pal gets here as he's gunna help remove them properly!



jamman said:


> Nick good work but keep an eye on the fuel line because it might get a bit of damage from the metal nut being against it, having said that might just be the picture I'm not sure.


Thanks dude, it's not pushing it too hard, but I might wrap the pipe with some amalgamation tape to act as a sacrificial and keep and eye on it that way. Cheers! 8)


----------



## Von Twinzig

MSA....do you need to weld the back plates for their events?

VT


----------



## NickG

I don't believe so speaking to other people and looking through the blue book, there's no mention of plates having to be welded or for that matter even fixed at all! Some bond them with Tiger Seal or similar, I went for the rivetted fixing as the plates come pre-drilled for a 4.8mm rivet so figure this would be good enough and simplest to do.

All your really doing is keeping the plate aligned for when the eyelet is removed I guess.


----------



## Von Twinzig

So could you have used the threaded back plates, without the nut, so they didn't foul the pipes?

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> So could you have used the threaded back plates, without the nut, so they didn't foul the pipes?
> 
> VT


Ah no, sorry the Nut is welded to the plate as standard, i don't think you'd get enough thread depth without a nut as it's only a 3mm plate.


----------



## 1781cc

Exactly the same as I did! I was hoping you got further and could give me some insight! I was planning to get out there today but it's chucking it down :-(


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Exactly the same as I did! I was hoping you got further and could give me some insight! I was planning to get out there today but it's chucking it down :-(


Haha unfortunately not!! I think I'll probably end up leaving them like that for a while, getting to the main loom looks to be a pain in the ass, so I've put the dash back in and will have to do a proper dash out, swap heating matrix, remove sound deadening and strip back to loom properly in the summer!


----------



## 1781cc

Yeah I've had to do the same as April 4th is coming up quick, I also seem to have a gps and immobiliser ecu that needs stripping properly as that could go very wrong and halt the car I'll probably wait till after.

You gonna make it on the 4th?


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> So could you have used the threaded back plates, without the nut, so they didn't foul the pipes?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> Ah no, sorry the Nut is welded to the plate as standard, i don't think you'd get enough thread depth without a nut as it's only a 3mm plate.
Click to expand...

I've always used these with threadloc......

http://www.ybracing.com/omp-db421-db421 ... ments.html

VT


----------



## NickG

Ahh yes, they're the 6mm ones, a bit beefier!

I don't see it being a problem with the fuel lines, but like i say, I'll keep a good eye on them to make sure.



1781cc said:


> Yeah I've had to do the same as April 4th is coming up quick, I also seem to have a gps and immobiliser ecu that needs stripping properly as that could go very wrong and halt the car I'll probably wait till after.
> 
> You gonna make it on the 4th?


Yeah that wouldn't be a great idea! :lol:

4th is a no go, I don't think the car will be ready for then. I'm planning at the minute to hit Bedford on 25th April, this is reliant on having a harness bar by then, but we shall see! (I'm going to make a mini events list in the Motorsport section for the days I'm planning to attend this year, then we can see if anyone else wants to join!)


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> 4th is a no go, I don't think the car will be ready for then. I'm planning at the minute to hit Bedford on 25th April, this is reliant on having a harness bar by then, but we shall see! (I'm going to make a mini events list in the Motorsport section for the days I'm planning to attend this year, then we can see if anyone else wants to join!)


Thats a great idea, it'd be good to meet some of you guys and compare notes in the flesh sometime, I am planning to do the Snetterton Memorial for VTs Dad but want to get about 6-8 in this year, also going to do some RWYB days to see the effects of weight on acceleration, etc...

Unfortunately, the 25th is out for me as I will be working in Moscow from the 23rd :?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 4th is a no go, I don't think the car will be ready for then. I'm planning at the minute to hit Bedford on 25th April, this is reliant on having a harness bar by then, but we shall see! (I'm going to make a mini events list in the Motorsport section for the days I'm planning to attend this year, then we can see if anyone else wants to join!)
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a great idea, it'd be good to meet some of you guys and compare notes in the flesh sometime, I am planning to do the Snetterton Memorial for VTs Dad but want to get about 6-8 in this year, also going to do some RWYB days to see the effects of weight on acceleration, etc...
> 
> Unfortunately, the 25th is out for me as I will be working in Moscow from the 23rd :?
Click to expand...

I've posted it up so take a look! Hopefully we can meet up a few!


----------



## Von Twinzig

I'll be up for a Bedford again this year. Just the one, so want to make sure it's a well supported affair. You know my feelings about Corby, sorry Rockingham [smiley=toilet.gif] 

VT


----------



## NickG

Minor bits and and pieces done today in the crappy weather we've (It's bank holiday after all!)...

First up some of the sound deadening was removed from the dash and then the dash replaced (After removing a couple of redundant brackets). At some point I'll take it out properly however that won't be until i've bought a replacement lightweight heating matrix so i can do all this at the same time. For now the redundant wiring has been cut off and isolated at the point where each section meets the main loom - This will at least keep it tidy for now!

As my central two vents have gauges mounted without the use of my own adapters (Before i had made them), they completely block all airflow, so i've removed the pipe that goes up to them both. Now the car is a proper race vehicle as it features a blanking plate... made from duct tape! :lol:



I've also got a couple of wires that i need assistance with to understand what they are for (and if i can remove them!)...

This one was wrapped with the interior lighting to the ceiling and sunvisor lights and then terminated coming down the driver's side A-pillar... any ideas?!


The second one i have no idea - It's long enough to go to the rear somewhere, has 2 cables, both green/red but i've no idea what for! (Part of me is thinking rear drivers side speaker as i can't find another cable for that!)

Next up I removed the headlining and associated trims, a nice 3kg of weight saved, musn't grumble! Now i've just got to remove the wooly lining that's left over - Done the easy parts then got bored so moved onto the next job!





Next up then i swapped the original GAZ springs over for the Shorter ones i ordered from GAZ, they've gone from 5" to 4" and this has made a massive difference, i'm now able to get the adjuster in! I've not got it at it's lowest setting but it's still lower then the old ones - This adjuster will prove vital when the time comes to corner weight the car and hence why i was so keen to get it in one way or another!



The next job on today's list - Remove the rear archliners, easy enough to do and i even treated the body to a little degrease and scrub down... (Excuse the brake discs - please?!)


Lastly the rear bumper was removed to allow me to figure out the rear tow strap. I like Max's idea of it coming through the bumper, however some sort of bracket will need to be made in order to mount the strap in the correct orientation...



I also love how the car looks like that, just looks so mean! :twisted:

Next job is to install the seats and harnesses!!!


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> I'll be up for a Bedford again this year. Just the one, so want to make sure it's a well supported affair. You know my feelings about Corby, sorry Rockingham [smiley=toilet.gif]
> 
> VT


Maybe the 1st August then!?

I do know your feelings about Rockingham, England's slice of American racing! :lol: There's a good chance when i come to enter a series that Rockingham will be on the calendar, so may as well start learning it!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Minor bits and and pieces done today in the crappy weather we've (It's bank holiday after all!)...
> 
> First up some of the sound deadening was removed from the dash and then the dash replaced (After removing a couple of redundant brackets). At some point I'll take it out properly however that won't be until i've bought a replacement lightweight heating matrix so i can do all this at the same time. For now the redundant wiring has been cut off and isolated at the point where each section meets the main loom - This will at least keep it tidy for now!
> 
> As my central two vents have gauges mounted without the use of my own adapters (Before i had made them), they completely block all airflow, so i've removed the pipe that goes up to them both. Now the car is a proper race vehicle as it features a blanking plate... made from duct tape! :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> I've also got a couple of wires that i need assistance with to understand what they are for (and if i can remove them!)...
> 
> This one was wrapped with the interior lighting to the ceiling and sunvisor lights and then terminated coming down the driver's side A-pillar... any ideas?!
> 
> 
> The second one i have no idea - It's long enough to go to the rear somewhere, has 2 cables, both green/red but i've no idea what for! (Part of me is thinking rear drivers side speaker as i can't find another cable for that!)
> 
> Next up I removed the headlining and associated trims, a nice 3kg of weight saved, musn't grumble! Now i've just got to remove the wooly lining that's left over - Done the easy parts then got bored so moved onto the next job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up then i swapped the original GAZ springs over for the Shorter ones i ordered from GAZ, they've gone from 5" to 4" and this has made a massive difference, i'm now able to get the adjuster in! I've not got it at it's lowest setting but it's still lower then the old ones - This adjuster will prove vital when the time comes to corner weight the car and hence why i was so keen to get it in one way or another!
> 
> 
> 
> The next job on today's list - Remove the rear archliners, easy enough to do and i even treated the body to a little degrease and scrub down... (Excuse the brake discs - please?!)
> 
> 
> Lastly the rear bumper was removed to allow me to figure out the rear tow strap. I like Max's idea of it coming through the bumper, however some sort of bracket will need to be made in order to mount the strap in the correct orientation...
> 
> 
> 
> I also love how the car looks like that, just looks so mean! :twisted:
> 
> Next job is to install the seats and harnesses!!!


Nice work Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] That wire up the A pillar, I removed it and nothing stopped working and it didn't catch fire. Aerial or some such?

VT


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be up for a Bedford again this year. Just the one, so want to make sure it's a well supported affair. You know my feelings about Corby, sorry Rockingham [smiley=toilet.gif]
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> O
> Maybe the 1st August then!?
> 
> I do know your feelings about Rockingham, England's slice of American racing! :lol: There's a good chance when i come to enter a series that Rockingham will be on the calendar, so may as well start learning it!
Click to expand...

August works for me.

My mate Olly's race series added Rockingham last year, dropped it this year and replaced it with Croft. ''Nuff said. Watch out for Mickey and Minney on the infield 

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Nice work Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] That wire up the A pillar, I removed it and nothing stopped working and it didn't catch fire. Aerial or some such?
> 
> VT


That's what i would have guessed at. That's handy then, more clutter to remove!

What's been your method of wiring removal so far? Have you removed entire wiring systems, or been lazy and isolated once each bit reaches the main loom? Also, i guess it's a good idea to pull fuses in relation to the bits that have been discarded?


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] That wire up the A pillar, I removed it and nothing stopped working and it didn't catch fire. Aerial or some such?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> That's what i would have guessed at. That's handy then, more clutter to remove!
> 
> What's been your method of wiring removal so far? Have you removed entire wiring systems, or been lazy and isolated once each bit reaches the main loom? Also, i guess it's a good idea to pull fuses in relation to the bits that have been discarded?
Click to expand...

Stripped out the looms to the A pillar kick panel area then heat shrunk the ends. Once I have a plan and the parts to sort out the heating I'll strip it back to the fuse panel, but It's a dilemma. I have no spare garage and don't want a non-operational car through the summer so I need to choose my moment. Last time I did this (on the Porsche) I did it over the winter in my garage.










VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] That wire up the A pillar, I removed it and nothing stopped working and it didn't catch fire. Aerial or some such?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> That's what i would have guessed at. That's handy then, more clutter to remove!
> 
> What's been your method of wiring removal so far? Have you removed entire wiring systems, or been lazy and isolated once each bit reaches the main loom? Also, i guess it's a good idea to pull fuses in relation to the bits that have been discarded?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stripped out the looms to the A pillar kick panel area then heat shrunk the ends. Once I have a plan and the parts to sort out the heating I'll strip it back to the fuse panel, but It's a dilemma. I have no spare garage and don't want a non-operational car through the summer so I need to choose my moment. Last time I did this (on the Porsche) I did it over the winter in my garage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

Yep, exactly the same situation and temporary solution as me then! I'm keeping my fingers crossed for space in the new factory when we move at work... Triple the size of current, so surely they'll be a corner for a TT?! :lol:

I'm still guessing at weights, I'm assuming your going to be a lot closer to 1200kg on your next weigh in? (Iirc you were 1240kg but still had the AC amongst other things?). My mission before the insurance runs out on May 8th is to get to a public weigh bridge, looks like Alconbury is going to be the nearest accessible one!


----------



## NickG

The final update to the Bank Holiday weekend!

I bought a hanging basket... this allowed me more time to work on the car without hassle... Think about it! :wink:

Anyways, first job today was to get rid of all that woolly ceiling crap. This started as the job from hell, i'd removed maybe 1/4 in about an hour and wasn't best pleased about it! Then i tried another method, nail brush in the sticky stuff remover, scrub it into the mess and leave it for 10 minutes, i came back and the rest of the crap was scraped off 5 minutes later...Win!



Once that was done i finished tidying up a few cables and cable tied a few switch panels into place! (Good call 1781cc! - Would love to know what you done with the Light switch though as i've not found a method to get this secure at all!)



With that out of the way it was time for the fun part... Final installation of seats and harnesses! :twisted:









First impressions of the seat and harness combo - Bloody AMAZING! no need to worry about sliding about anymore! Can't wait to get out on the track and strapped into these things!

Lastly i dropped the big battery back in and started her up - First time, no messing about and ran her up to temperature. She's a good girl really! Scanned for codes and only the airbag light to worry about (But for some reason, it's not showing on the dash :wink: ).



Next up, i need to get the steering wheel fitted then i can drive her down to the garage to get the harness bar made up! I'm aiming to have this done by 16th April to attend the day at Quattrotech, however this really depends on the harness bar and i won't be pressurizing for it as it's being done by a friend of a friend, we'll see, but fingers crossed!


----------



## brushwood69

Nick, Why are you using persil non bio you know its DAZ that makes your car faster :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> Nick, Why are you using persil non bio you know its DAZ that makes your car faster :lol: :lol: :lol:


Damn! It won't even make my whites whiter will it!? :lol:


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nick, do you want me to take out my harness bar so your chap can copy it? On hols this week if it helps.

Have you seen how I did my light switch? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=558849&start=240

VT


----------



## NickG

That may well be a bloody good offer thanks! Let me chat to Karl tomorrow and see if it will help! 

Spot on with the light switch mount too, even i can manage that, and i definitely have some ally laying about at work! Cheers again!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> That may well be a bloody good offer thanks! Let me chat to Karl tomorrow and see if it will help!


Coming into town tomorrow if it helps.

VT


----------



## NickG

Got to love the return of sunlight in the evenings right!? 

Gave me a spare hour to fit this bad boy...







Feels nice, fits great and i even bought it a little present to keep it warm on those cold nights...



Chucked the gauges back in as well tonight, very nearly ready!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Are you running "Billy no mates" stylee Nick? (No pax seat).

VT


----------



## NickG

:lol: only on a temporary basis! I'm going to relocate the battery behind the seat very soon, so figured I'd keep it out of the way for now. Definitely need it in as I'm hoping to get tuition this year!


----------



## 1781cc

Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!


 :lol: Definitely not! Old trackies! I save my leggings for Saturdays :roll:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

1781cc said:


> Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!


I thought I saw some heels in his interior too! Good eye! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!
> 
> 
> 
> I hoped I saw some heels in his interior too! Good eye! :lol:
Click to expand...

Corrected for you Gonz :-*


----------



## KarlD

1781cc said:


> Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!


Them grey leggings of his have been the subject of many a falling-out between the two of us.


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me you aren't wearing grey leggings in the first picture!
> 
> 
> 
> Them grey leggings of his have been the subject of many a falling-out between the two of us.
Click to expand...

Oh god, it's you again! :lol: Lookout!!


----------



## BaueruTc

Really impressed how she is coming along Nick! Eye is in the detail removing all the crap stuck to the floor pans. Looks like you could eat your dinner off it now!



When i see this i automatically think R8 I don't know why?

I'm with you, She looks well mean! Leave it like that! 8)


----------



## KarlD

This must be well under 1200kg now.


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> This must be well under 1200kg now.


Your an A hole [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Need to lose MOAR weight.


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> KarlD said:
> 
> 
> 
> This must be well under 1200kg now.
> 
> 
> 
> Your an A hole [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Need to lose MOAR weight.
Click to expand...

I lost 2lbs over the weekend, primarily after several large evacuations. [smiley=toilet.gif]

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> KarlD said:
> 
> 
> 
> This must be well under 1200kg now.
> 
> 
> 
> Your an A hole [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Need to lose MOAR weight.
Click to expand...

Maybe you should join a gym? Don't gyms in the UK offer discounts to multiple or group memberships? Just enlist the TT too! :lol: :wink:


----------



## NickG

As per my separate posts recently I've been battling an N75 problem and a steering angle sensor malfunction!

Thanks to VT the N75 hardware issue was confirmed and a new one is now on the way. I have just tonight received confirmation that my VCDS-lite has been registered too, so I should be able to reset the steering angle sensor as well now. Peterborough and surrounding area folk, bare this in mind, if you need any VCDS work, just contact me and I'm happy to help!

I also managed to get her on the scales Saturday too, which was worthwhile. I guesses/calculated at 1255kg, the result...



1260kg!!  Fat b**ch!

Need to add 8kg to that for the passenger seat which wasn't installed at the time too, so 1268kg or 2785lbs.

Joking aside I knew roughly where to expect to see her and now I have a confirmed figure to work from, I should be able to log changes from here in to get a more accurate figure going forwards!

So weight reduction still possible...

Wheels - a conservative 20kg - money in place just waiting to burn through the current tyres
Lightweight battery - 6kg - In the garage, not yet installed
Front calipers - 6kg - undergoing refurb, not installed
Front door cards - conservative 5kg? - laziness still installed

That's 37kg without too much extra expense and effort.

Next up;

Exhaust - 13kg? remove back box and replace with something lighter (maybe single exit?)
Lightweight heating matrix - 5kg saving

That get us to around 1213kg ish... Where next then??

Random brackets all over the cabin definitely some weight to lose there...


----------



## NickG

And to note I've been at the gym regularly for 4 months now and have put on 7lbs... I feel better but not lighter :lol:


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> And to note I've been at the gym regularly for 4 months now and have put on 7lbs... I feel better but not lighter :lol:


Muscle is denser than fat. [smiley=book2.gif]

VT


----------



## brushwood69

Get the AET Hybrid like me then you will be at 266ish BHP per ton which is the same as a Cayman GT4 BHP Per Ton: 268.5 bhp  

http://www.autosnout.com/Cars-Bhp-Per-Ton-List.php


----------



## NickG

What are you running now BW? I'm around 300-315bhp currently!


----------



## NickG

The good news is I'm higher than a TTRS plus... That's a good place to be!


----------



## Von Twinzig

brushwood69 said:


> Get the AET Hybrid like me then you will be at 266ish BHP per ton which is the same as a Cayman GT4 BHP Per Ton: 268.5 bhp
> 
> http://www.autosnout.com/Cars-Bhp-Per-Ton-List.php


My turbo Carrera ended up at 327.4. Nippy.

VT


----------



## 1781cc

Wheels and exhaust has got to be a big thing as thats all I have that I can think of as being immediately different to yours, last time I checked mine (before cage, additional strip out) and I was at 1240kg, we've done similar stuff, although I still have aircon, so something seems a little odd there especially as you will be adding stuff like the additional seat, harness bar (then full cage), etc

Remember there are still redundant brackets, parts of the loom, unused brackets in the engine, sound deadening under the door cards (and if you are going full hog as I expect to), central locking, windows and motors, angle grind the metal headlining clips off the roof, alarm, battery, etc

Plus I will be doing the air-con and steering wheel eventually


----------



## NickG

I'm definitely looking at the wheels as a major suspect in the weight department! I forgot also that each corner has a steel bolt-on spacer that is at least 1kg probably more, thats a big amount i guess.

Central locking is a good call too, we were looking at the boot hatch at the weekend and reckoned a good saving could be made from ditching the lock and associated bits and using bonnet fasteners to keep it shut!


----------



## Large Package

NickG said:


> And to note I've been at the gym regularly for 4 months now and have put on 7lbs... I feel better but not lighter :lol:





Von Twinzig said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> And to note I've been at the gym regularly for 4 months now and have put on 7lbs... I feel better but not lighter :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Muscle is denser than fat. [smiley=book2.gif] VT
Click to expand...

Stay away from the gym and eat more pies, Nick....result :lol:


----------



## NickG

That seems to be the way to do it :lol:


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> I'm definitely looking at the wheels as a major suspect in the weight department! I forgot also that each corner has a steel bolt-on spacer that is at least 1kg probably more, thats a big amount i guess.


Don't want to burst your bubble but I am running Eibach 10mm at the front and 15mm at the rear 

The fasteners is a good shout, bonnet and boot - I've been looking at carbon bonnets lately... ** must resist **


----------



## NickG

Eibach are Aluminium though if i'm correct?

Mine are solid steel i believe, they weigh a sh** load! If the rain holds out i might even remove one later and weigh it.

To be honest to bonnet is crazy light already, i think someone has said before it's aluminium. That being said, the catch system again will be heavy!


----------



## Boruki

I remember someone saying that their carbon bonnet ended up needing stiffening to be any use and then weighed as much or than a stock bonnet? Not sure where I read about it (probably on here) but would defo be worth looking at before paying out for a carbon one.


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> To be honest to bonnet is crazy light already, i think someone has said before it's aluminium. That being said, the catch system again will be heavy!


Yes, it's aluminium but not crazy light due to the sheer size of our bonnet (9 kg).



Boruki said:


> I remember someone saying that their carbon bonnet ended up needing stiffening to be any use and then weighed as much or than a stock bonnet? Not sure where I read about it (probably on here) but would defo be worth looking at before paying out for a carbon one.


Depend on the brand and construction of the CF bonnet. Most companies that made them had the boonet constructed from a single top-layer of CF, one thick (or mutliple) layer of fiberglass reinforcement. The ones that were strong were heavier than the standard aluminium bonnet as you said you read, so definitely a pointless exercise.

I have a CF bonnet on mine and it's 4.5 kg lighter than OEM. Single dry sheet of carbon with a nice thick over-coat of resin underneath to protect it and add some strength. It can't be used and hold itselt up with the standard strut system, and securing pins are therefore needed... but who cares on a track/race car, it's all about weight.

High-tech system to hold mine up:


----------



## Von Twinzig

I have a spare black bonnet standing in the garage. I did have half an idea to try and remove the stiffening moulding bonded to the underside. Looks like it might just be glued on?

VT


----------



## 1781cc

I understand that it may be a lot of money and may not save a lot of weight, I have plenty more things I need first for sure, but longer term I am thinking about getting as much weight out of the front as possible, the rear is easy but she still understeers too much for my liking


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> I understand that it may be a lot of money and may not save a lot of weight, I have plenty more things I need first for sure, but longer term I am thinking about getting as much weight out of the front as possible, the rear is easy but she still understeers too much for my liking


There is definitely plenty of room to drop weight off of the front and on the car overall. My car for example tipped the scales at 1,130 kg the last time I checked, so there is potential for sub-1,100 kg on the TT.

The thing to be careful with, when setting the priorities on a TT track build IMO, is that the suspension design/geometry is the main factor making the car understeer-prone, not the weight distribution. When I built my car, proper tyre sizing, and the suspension were tackled and sorted first before I went crazy with weight reduction. That way I knew the car handled properly, and lowering the weight would make a good-handling car faster instead of just creating a lightweight disaster.

Another thing to consider too is chasing "neutral" or "terminal oversteer" at all cost is not necessarily the best approach on every platform. I will take a 1.7g terminally-understeering car (and be way faster) than a nicely neutral or oversteering car that only turn 1.3g of cornering force. Balance is nice when it helps, but the point of a track car is to go fast, not look or feel nice doing so. So, some food for thoughts!!!


----------



## NickG

So I did manage to get a wheel and spacer of this evening and the results are in...

One Replica Audi wheel and Nangkang NS2-R tyre... 24.5kg!!



One 20mm bolt on hub centeric wheel spacer and bolts... 1.725kg!!!!



Now the TD pro-race 1.2 in 17x9 that I want is 9.5kg. The tyre to fit this 255/40/17 is going to be around 11kg that gives 20.5kg a saving of 4kg per corner plus the 1.725kg of redundant Spacer gives 5.725kg a corner

That's 22.9kg overall!!! Better get these wheels sorted!


----------



## Madmax199

Holy heavy batman! Nick, the car is going feel like a different one once you get all that rotational and unsprung weight under control. You'll probably free up a solid 20 BHP in the process on top of getting better handling. My old wheels are not the lightest at 9.5 kg on the cast ones (two are discontinued forged ones) and I'm replacing them with 7.7 kg RPF1 of the same size. You can see below that you are logging boat anchors around.

Race wheel/295mm tyre fitment and weight 19.6 kg (43.4 lbs) 

























For reference, here are the OEM fat 5 with small 245 tyres weight comparison 21.3 kg (47.0 lbs)


----------



## NickG

I guess my wheels and spacers have been eating all the proverbial pies then!

Is there any advantage to these spacers, or should I just ditch them for now and run the standard wheels without them??


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Is there any advantage to these spacers, or should I just ditch them for now and run the standard wheels without them??


The advantage to those spacers is they help get fitment where it needs to be -- inner clearance can be a challenge with the TT. They also increase the track which helps the handling (there is a small impact on scrub radius, but the increased track more than makes up for it). IF you can get wheels with low enough offset, then thats obviously ideal. But they do serve a purpose and don't have to be that heavy.


----------



## NickG

I guess i'll leave them on for now, atleast when i do change there should be a more noticeable difference... hopefully!


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> at least when i do change there should be a more noticeable difference... hopefully!


From where you're starting, expect to be blown away by how light and motivated the car is going to feel after dropping that much rotational weight. :wink:


----------



## brushwood69

Just did a weight test on my 17" Nankangs and my wolfrace tracklite and they came in at 20.3kg a corner but would expect them to weigh less when using the air from up and around Huntingdon.


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> Just did a weight test on my 17" Nankangs and my wolfrace tracklite and they came in at 20.3kg a corner but would expect them to weigh less when using the air from up and around Huntingdon.


 :lol: brilliant


----------



## Von Twinzig

brushwood69 said:


> Just did a weight test on my 17" Nankangs and my wolfrace tracklite and they came in at 20.3kg a corner but would expect them to weigh less when using the air from up and around Huntingdon.


It's fair to say the air up here is much lighter. [smiley=rolleyes5.gif]

VT


----------



## tom-coupe

Be interested to know what offset you go for Nick. Mine at 17x8 pro races are et22 hope they will fit. Having them machined down to 57.1cb when I get a car lol


----------



## NickG

tom-coupe said:


> Be interested to know what offset you go for Nick. Mine at 17x8 pro races are et22 hope they will fit. Having them machined down to 57.1cb when I get a car lol


They should fit fine, I'm currently at 18x8 on a ET35 with 20mm spacer so essentially ET15!

Looks like from a 17x9 I'm going to need an ET30 in order to clear the strut and not clear the arch.


----------



## NickG

*Harness bar and Rear tow strap*

Update time!

Finally had a chance to finish up the bits on the car ready for the next trackday 

First up the new shorter rear springs where installed, to begin with i went with a 5mm gap on the adjuster...error... the rear sat so low you couldn't get a finger between the tyre and arch! So i raised it a good chunk, up to 14mm either side and i now have a decent gap front and back, not too low but not on stilts!

Harness bar has been fabricated, thanks VT for the pics to give us the idea! 

The plates either side where they mount to the frame were laser cut from 4mm steel and bent up, the bar was then tacked into place before being welded fully out of place. We opted for 45mm x 2.5mm CDS tube for a nice strong bar that won't be going anywhere anytime soon.



I had a bit of a result also and managed to get the thing powdercoated at very short notice (3 hour turnaround between dropping off and collection!)...score!  Fitted using rivnuts inserted into the existing rear seat mount points on the body.







I also finally finished up the rear tow strap, KarlD fabbed me up a nice little bracket to span the existing mount points, i then dremelled a nice slot in the rear bumper to feed the strap through and voila...







I love it, in my eye's it just fits in nicely! 8)

Finally i completed another little VT mod, the famous heated seat switch blank, looking very OEM! 



And that's me, ready for the next trackday!


----------



## NickG

*Blyton Park Trackday - 27.4.16*



So the first trackday of the year has been and gone, i went for Blyton Park as it was cheap at only £109 for the day, had a good run off area all around the track and finally was a lot shorter than Bedford, so i managed to complete 66 laps in the day, compared to around 25 at Bedford... this allowed me to get used to the track as i only had 9 corners to learn!

I had an awesome day, the car ran perfectly all day without coughs, splutters or groans - I do have a slight boost leak (About 2 psi) but i had that before i went, i will try and track that down soon! The day was cold but dry in the morning, before the heavens opened at lunch, bringing hail followed by heavy rain (And maybe even some sleet!). Whilst the laps were clearly slower after lunch i still had a hell of a lot of fun and it allowed me to find the limitations of the cars handling at a lower speed than in the dry! I also noticed the entire Fiesta ST owners club went home an hour after lunch... i guess they didn't find FWD fun in the rain.

For a lot of my final 2 sessions i was either alone on track, or with only one or two other cars - Gotta love Quattro power in the rain!!! The senior Marshall on the day came and had a chat after i finished my last session as he was intrigued by the car, he drives one as a daily and wondered what i'd done! He also mentioned they were going to Red flag the track when it rained heavily, but as i was the only one out and seemed to be having fun, they let me continue :lol:

Anyway, a few of my favourite laps & snaps (please note: Timing was added from the Time stamps during editing NOT recorded on track!)...




































And a little bit of rear end action causing some correction in the rain...


*
Notes from the day:*


Rear brakes are dead - Very dead: I think this caused me issues throughout the day, as it would have put pretty much all of the pressure on the front brakes for stopping - New rear discs and pads on the way!

The above also probably explains the back wanting to overtake the front when trail braking

The rain also highlighted the cars tendency to understeer still: Under power in the wet its still understeering - Will the Haldex insert provide a temporary aid to this for the time being?

Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?


Don't race on wet tracks? :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Whats the reason behind those headlight stickers?


----------



## NickG

Beunhaas said:


> Whats the reason behind those headlight stickers?


Boredom over winter?! :lol:


----------



## bdc6570

Mate bloody fantastic 8) Well done.....I Just re-Joined the group can't wait to read about your project


----------



## NickG

bdc6570 said:


> Mate bloody fantastic 8) Well done.....I Just re-Joined the group can't wait to read about your project


Cheers dude 8)


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?
> 
> 
> 
> Don't race on wet tracks? :lol:
Click to expand...

But where's the fun in that?! :twisted:


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> The rain also highlighted the cars tendency to understeer still: Under power in the wet its still understeering - Will the Haldex insert provide a temporary aid to this for the time being?
> 
> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?


I found the same thing at a wet Snett until I installed the insert. Not a magic bullet but deffo helped. Did you soften your suspension setup and change your tyre pressures when it started to pour down? How much rake are you running?

VT


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Notes from the day:
> 
> 
> Rear brakes are dead - Very dead: I think this caused me issues throughout the day, as it would have put pretty much all of the pressure on the front brakes for stopping - New rear discs and pads on the way!
> 
> The above also probably explains the back wanting to overtake the front when trail braking
> 
> The rain also highlighted the cars tendency to understeer still: Under power in the wet its still understeering - Will the Haldex insert provide a temporary aid to this for the time being?
> 
> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?


Nick, the car looks good in the pics! Get some real pads, but you already know that this is a necessity for track duty (a track that's harder on brakes would have highlighted this). I think the lively and wagging rear end under trailbraking is a result of your rear alignment, more so than the rear brakes going out. Set -1.3 degree of rear camber and 1/16 to 1/8" of toe in -- the car will be planted with trailbraking and throttle lift.

The understeer behavior is going to be there until it's addressed. Since it's terminal understeer, the rain lowered your terminal grip limit and highlighted the issue -- it's there in the dry too, just at a much higher limit that you may not be reaching consistently to feel it being an issue all the time. Any haldex upgrade will help, but more at masking the problem instead of curing it. The understeer problem is in the front suspension (I know I sound like a broken record preaching this all the time, but it's the cold truth). Anything else besides fixing the root of the issue will only mask it, not cure it. Your car looks flat enough when cornering, therefore you are not suffering from the excessive body roll common to many track TT I see (thank your GAZ setup for that). So, it's easy, you only need to work on 3 things:

1) Less front ARB to gain front traction (this will make on-throttle understeer literally disappear)

2) More front camber and caster (these static alterations will greatly affect where you land dynamically when reaching your terminal limit.

3) More front rubber and widening of the front track (this is a cheater way of altering the geometry to your advantage)


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> 1) Less front ARB to gain front traction (this will make on-throttle understeer literally disappear)


AKA take that front arb off Nick :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Less front ARB to gain front traction (this will make on-throttle understeer literally disappear)
> 
> 
> 
> AKA take that front arb off Nick :lol:
Click to expand...

  If you want to be direct, yes! A good test Nick could have performed was to disconnect his links between two sessions and feel the front grip difference and how much of the dreaded vanishes. :wink:


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> The rain also highlighted the cars tendency to understeer still: Under power in the wet its still understeering - Will the Haldex insert provide a temporary aid to this for the time being?
> 
> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?
> 
> 
> 
> I found the same thing at a wet Snett until I installed the insert. Not a magic bullet but deffo helped. Did you soften your suspension setup and change your tyre pressures when it started to pour down? How much rake are you running?
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

I think i'm gunna have to buy one and give it a try! I didn't alter the suspension for the simple fact that i hadn't had a chance to dial it up hardly at all due to only having had 2 dry sessions! :lol: I think i'm 6 clicks up from soft currently.



Madmax199 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Notes from the day:
> 
> 
> Rear brakes are dead - Very dead: I think this caused me issues throughout the day, as it would have put pretty much all of the pressure on the front brakes for stopping - New rear discs and pads on the way!
> 
> The above also probably explains the back wanting to overtake the front when trail braking
> 
> The rain also highlighted the cars tendency to understeer still: Under power in the wet its still understeering - Will the Haldex insert provide a temporary aid to this for the time being?
> 
> Turn in was also pretty poor at the front in the wet, how can i improve this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nick, the car looks good in the pics! Get some real pads, but you already know that this is a necessity for track duty (a track that's harder on brakes would have highlighted this). I think the lively and wagging rear end under trailbraking is a result of your rear alignment, more so than the rear brakes going out. Set -1.3 degree of rear camber and 1/16 to 1/8" of toe in -- the car will be planted with trailbraking and throttle lift.
> 
> The understeer behavior is going to be there until it's addressed. Since it's terminal understeer, the rain lowered your terminal grip limit and highlighted the issue -- it's there in the dry too, just at a much higher limit that you may not be reaching consistently to feel it being an issue all the time. Any haldex upgrade will help, but more at masking the problem instead of curing it. The understeer problem is in the front suspension (I know I sound like a broken record preaching this all the time, but it's the cold truth). Anything else besides fixing the root of the issue will only mask it, not cure it. Your car looks flat enough when cornering, therefore you are not suffering from the excessive body roll common to many track TT I see (thank your GAZ setup for that). So, it's easy, you only need to work on 3 things:
> 
> 1) Less front ARB to gain front traction (this will make on-throttle understeer literally disappear)
> 
> 2) More front camber and caster (these static alterations will greatly affect where you land dynamically when reaching your terminal limit.
> 
> 3) More front rubber and widening of the front track (this is a cheater way of altering the geometry to your advantage)
Click to expand...

Yep New pads and discs for the rear to be ordered next week, i'll get a set of M1144's in there and see how they go. When i switch to my Brembos i think i'm going to look at some XP12's, i have found a couple of UK suppliers with half decent prices (A big problem i had on that track in the heaviest braking zone was the inability to find a brake point marker on the track - In fact i hadn't mentioned it and then when watching back some footage with my Dad he asked if i'd struggled to find one and it reminded me i had!)

With regards to a squirmy rear, my previous alignment was -1° camber rear with 0°02 Toe-in either side, what does 1/16 or 1/8 equate to in the same format??

With regards to understeer, is there a middle ground or is the next step to disconnect the front ARB? I had discussed with KarlD about disconnecting, but as i was alone on the day, to be honest, i couldn't be bothered with the hassle in the rain! We did decide to try it when next out on track though, i assume it would be just as effective in the dry as you say?

Camber and caster is something we will tackle soon, the silverproject topmounts have arrived, we just haven't fitted them (Looking for ways to improve them as discussed previously!). Also wider rubber, the money is sitting there for 17x9" rims, just waiting for the tyre money and to go through the current set then i'll hit the button... another 30mm of rubber wont hurt! :twisted:


----------



## Madmax199

^^^ I really would not bother with the M1144 pads. Useless for track use, and a waste of time (same as EBC yellow, Hawk HP+, and the DS2500). :wink:


----------



## NickG

Could try 1166's I guess, for the tears for the time being I just want something that isn't going to fade, but isn't going to cost me an arm and a leg. As I say, once I get the brembos on the front I'll look to some more serious pads both front and back.

Has anyone tried the Nitrac Cryogenically treated discs? They aren't stupid money, have a lot of option of disc faces and are meant to deal with heat better and last longer due to the freezing process changing the make-up?


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> With regards to a squirmy rear, my previous alignment was -1° camber rear with 0°02 Toe-in either side, what does 1/16 or 1/8 equate to in the same format??
> 
> With regards to understeer, is there a middle ground or is the next step to disconnect the front ARB? I had discussed with KarlD about disconnecting, but as i was alone on the day, to be honest, i couldn't be bothered with the hassle in the rain! We did decide to try it when next out on track though, i assume it would be just as effective in the dry as you say?
> :


Your rear camber is not bad, just shoot for -1.3 to -1.5. As for the toe conversion from inches to degree: 1/16" to 1-8" = 0.14* to 0.28* with a tyre height of 25".

There is a middle ground, and it requires modifying the stock bar by elongation of the arms where the links are attached. But after going to the trouble of fabrication, testing, and dialing everything around the middle ground myself, I would strongly suggest to skip that and just try the front bar delete. The middle ground helped, but was never enough to dial out the understeer. I understand the fear around not having an ARB, but trust me all that have tried it are smiling (ask Adam aka colecTTor).


----------



## NickG

Ah okay, that would explain the skittish back end then I guess! I should have more then enough room in the rear to pull back the toe and chuck on some camber atleast!

Well I'll get it disconnected next time out and see how it goes, I guess firm up the dampening to compensate then?


----------



## Von Twinzig

Madmax199 said:


> 3) More front rubber and widening of the front track (this is a cheater way of altering the geometry to your advantage)


What rubber and pressures are you running in the wet Max?

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Well I'll get it disconnected next time out and see how it goes, I guess firm up the dampening to compensate then?


Either that or be prepared to go into the wall :lol:

You're removing the stiffness set in place by the ARB, you have to account for that elsewhere, so yes I'd adjust the dampening.

And I guess a "middleground" would be either a modified stock bar as Max said or a thinner bar (do they even make these?). Probably best to just take it off as Max said and see how she goes.

What 17x9 wheels are you planning to get? :wink:


----------



## NickG

Minor updates for new parts arriving...

Mintex M1144 pads have arrived for the rear, cheap and sufficient for the next trackday whilst i get to grips with the braking.

Nitrac DCT Frozen discs have been ordered for the rear, these will take a couple of weeks to arrive due to the freezing process. I've read nothing but good things about the company, so i figured they were worth a try 8)

I did also get a brake pressure sensor warning whilst driving back home from Blyton - I'm hoping that's due to low fluid level from burning through so much pad, but i'll change the rears and see what happens!  I've also got a set of TTRS cooling flaps to go on the front wishbones at some point, these might help keep temps a little lower.

New wheels have also been ordered 17x9 Team Dynamics Pro race 1.2 for a ridiculously low price, with correct offset... on a 5-6 weeks lead time so not expecting them until July really... not an issue as i've got a lot of life left in the current Nankangs so i'll burn through them first anyway.

As of Sunday she's no longer insured either, so from here on in shes a trailer queen! MOAR weight saving... bye bye number plates :lol: This also means i can get to work on some additional cooling to the FMIC and radiator when i get a chance.


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Minor updates for new parts arriving...
> 
> Mintex M1144 pads have arrived for the rear, cheap and sufficient for the next trackday whilst i get to grips with the braking.
> 
> Nitrac DCT Frozen discs have been ordered for the rear, these will take a couple of weeks to arrive due to the freezing process. I've read nothing but good things about the company, so i figured they were worth a try 8)
> 
> I did also get a brake pressure sensor warning whilst driving back home from Blyton - I'm hoping that's due to low fluid level from burning through so much pad, but i'll change the rears and see what happens!  I've also got a set of TTRS cooling flaps to go on the front wishbones at some point, these might help keep temps a little lower.
> 
> New wheels have also been ordered 17x9 Team Dynamics Pro race 1.2 for a ridiculously low price, with correct offset... on a 5-6 weeks lead time so not expecting them until July really... not an issue as i've got a lot of life left in the current Nankangs so i'll burn through them first anyway.
> 
> As of Sunday she's no longer insured either, so from here on in shes a trailer queen! MOAR weight saving... bye bye number plates :lol: This also means i can get to work on some additional cooling to the FMIC and radiator when i get a chance.


Trailer.....buying or hiring Nick?


----------



## NickG

Hiring currently, but buying in the near future... got a little bit of welding to do on the towing machine of choice first! :lol:


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Hiring currently, but buying in the near future... got a little bit of welding to do on the towing machine of choice first! :lol:


????

VT


----------



## NickG

Well...



BUT....



:lol: :lol: :lol: Bit of work to do!!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Fintstone power! 

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

YABADABADOOO


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> YABADABADOOO





Von Twinzig said:


> Fintstone power!
> 
> VT


Something like that! (Unfortunately!) :lol:

Barely had any time on the car this weekend, but I did find an hour to remove a rear caliper, which is the culprit for my brake pressure issue... The issue being that it had blown a fluid seal, almost definitely due to having moved too far out due to the lack of pad  oooops!

Never mind, I was going to attempt to rebuild, but I've seen BiggRed do a brand new pair of rears for £144 in my colour of choice for the fronts, so I'll order those and freshen the entire rear braking system up!

One thing I can't suss is the rear lines, from what I can see, replacement lines for the rear are only about 6 inches in length and I can't actually see where they fit into the original system! Are these worthwhile? I already have a set for the fronts to go on as these are very long and in need of an upgrade.


----------



## KarlD




----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


>


Apparently KarlD loves arch gap! :lol: :roll:


----------



## NickG

Well progress has slowed down again, mainly due to collapsing a couple of weeks ago meaning i'm currently not allowed to drive and hence grabbing lifts here there and everywhere is making life a tad hectic!

BUT thanks to KarlD, there has been progress never the less...

BiggRed managed to return my rear brake calipers extremely quickly, so we were able to get these on, however still missed the day at Snetterton with the rest of you folk, due to leaving it so late to get booked on (Absolutely gutted about that and my apologies to those who organised - Looked like a great day!). To compliment the newly refurbed calipers i'm giving a set of Nitrac Frozen Discs a try on the rear, along with Mintex M1144 pads - Hopefully this will swing a bit of braking power further rear, rather than the generic, old, pass-it cheap pads and discs i've had on since i owned the car - Let's face it, nothing is going to be worse than that old setup!









Starting to get a bit of a colour scheme going on now, love the look of the orange behind the black wheels... But i'll be keeping that to myself until the new wheels turn up :wink:

Speaking of wheels, the monstrous 255 wide tyres have arrived, Nankang NS-2R again because i've really enjoyed them so far!



The wheels SHOULD be here next week too, so i can get a test fit under way! :twisted:

I've also ditched the sun visors and added a sunstrip... I won't lie - mainly Because Racecar! Got to feel fast though right?! 



If you're wondering what that's about #TrackAddict is a uk Instagram group dedicated to UK Track cars, worth a follow as you'll see some beasts and weapons on there!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

I like the car Nick. It's coming along nicely.  
Should have gone for some wider wheels and tires though, especially considering you aren't lowered. Would be a great advantage to have on the track.


----------



## NickG

Thanks dude 8)

Any wider and I'm into the realms of serious arch work! Max is lucky that it's not essential his arch covers the tyre, we don't have that luxury over here unfortunately!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> Thanks dude 8)
> 
> Any wider and I'm into the realms of serious arch work! Max is lucky that it's not essential his arch covers the tyre, we don't have that luxury over here unfortunately!


Oh wow. I was unaware of that regulation. That's a bummer. You could roll your fenders or get a (cringe warning)... wide body kit. :lol:


----------



## NickG

That doesn't offend me so much... It's a racecar?! :lol:

Only problem is a few series that insist on the silhouette of the car remaining the same... Not all are like this, but I'd have to make choices in the direction in the future!


----------



## tom-coupe

which are these race series you speak of nick?


----------



## NickG

tom-coupe said:


> which are these race series you speak of nick?


CSCC Modern Classics/Tintops!

I say that, but then some cars run with rear diffusers and wings, so it's probably all twistable one way or another anyway, but for now, safest to try and keep it looking as standard as possible.


----------



## NickG

.
*HELLO...........*



:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Now we can get some of this mounted...



And then happy days!!! 8) 

I'm also going to attempt the problematic brake bleeding issue again today, must try and get onto the master cylinder! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## NickG

Well, i'm having no luck getting these braked bled, been through all 17 stages of the vagcom bleeding cycle as well as 2 litres of fluid and still haven't got a proper pedal! This leads me to believe either i'm doing something stupid wrong, or there is a mechanical malfunction in either the master cylinder or the ABS system.

I'm going to have to resort to Jabbasport having a look, however getting booked in there is easier said then done, they are so busy!! I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to ask them to look over the car either whilst it's there and make any suggestions!

So to keep me occupied, i've started a little project on a Christmas present i bought myself...

Standard Boxster calipers...



Blasted off...



Bunged up...



Primed with 2K spray primer....





Straight after spraying on the 2K paint...



Hopefully get a dry pic up soon! Now all i need is the carrier adapter and a set of pads and they're all good to go, by which time i'll have probably been through the current set of pads i'm running.


----------



## NickG

Well the paint has had the weekend to cure (And will likely have another few months at this rate - At least they will be well hardened!!!). The finished results...









Well happy with them, they have such a nice shine from the 2K paint and hopefully it'll last well too - If not, it's only £30 down the drain i suppose!


----------



## NickG

I've also been doing a few minor exterior decorative changes along with KarlD over the last few weeks, mainly just time fillers between important jobs! I had planned to "Reveal" these with some fancy on-track photos, but as i'm still not allowed to drive and can't see that changing for the foreseeable future, i figure i may as well get them out there!! :x







I've still got a few bits to do while shes sitting there too, so at least the project shouldn't grind to a halt, i just wish i could get the seat time i had planned this year in! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Von Twinzig

The future's bright, the future's orange 8)

VT


----------



## NickG

If only I could remember the name of the company who used to spin that one... :roll:

:lol: Might have to attempt one of these oil rads whilst I'm running low on other things!


----------



## Von Twinzig

You know it makes sense. My advice; get longer hoses and practice with the fittings. Mine were a be'atch to fit.

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Should paint your tow hook orange too.

Honestly It's looking solid. I normally hate random colors outside the norm on most cars, but that's because most cars randomly throw it in there. I like that you have a theme and are sticking to it. It looks nice and could have some potential.

Orange V6 Extension anyone? :wink:


----------



## Jordritchie1

Where did you get all the bunts for spraying the calipers? Looking good btw!


----------



## 1781cc

Not so keep on the headlight covers - kind of an homage to XR3is of the 90s IMO, but the orange works really well, I would never have mad that colour association with a silver car, but it looks really cool. Are you going to get the Pro Race sprayed to match?

I think an orange powder coat might work for the cage as well


----------



## NickG

Jordritchie1 said:


> Where did you get all the bunts for spraying the calipers? Looking good btw!


http://www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk/ral-paint-colours/

That's the place, not to bad at all for what is fairly hard to find, spray can 2K paint!


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Should paint your tow hook orange too.
> 
> Honestly It's looking solid. I normally hate random colors outside the norm on most cars, but that's because most cars randomly throw it in there. I like that you have a theme and are sticking to it. It looks nice and could have some potential.
> 
> Orange V6 Extension anyone? :wink:


Cheers dude! The tow hook was in the plans to be done with the calipers, but there just wasn't enough paint! It'll be done in the future at some point! 

I've got plenty of photoshops of where i want the car to go, so i'm on a clear path, there will be some blue accents too - Brake hoses, Brembo decals on the calipers, the boots on the coilovers and the engine hoses for now! :wink:



1781cc said:


> Not so keep on the headlight covers - kind of an homage to XR3is of the 90s IMO, but the orange works really well, I would never have mad that colour association with a silver car, but it looks really cool. Are you going to get the Pro Race sprayed to match?
> 
> I think an orange powder coat might work for the cage as well


Thanks mate! 8) I've never been 100% on the headlight brows, but i'm also not 0% so i've kind of just left them on for the time being - It's only silver vinyl so easy enough to remove when i want to! Orange cage would look cool, it would be my choice, provided it's not too distracting!!!

The wheels are staying black, hopefully then it'll pick out the orange callipers behind a little better.


----------



## NickG

*Engine Out... Again! :twisted: *

So im 90% sure my Brake Master Cylinder is knackered, countless attempts to bleed have made no difference, i probably flipped a seal when it was ran dry. Changing this is a pig of a job with the big ol' engine the way, so it's time to take her out again.

I've also got a good list of smaller jobs that i've needed to do and have been collecting parts for for some time;


Master Cylinder
Change Leaky Sump
Battery Relocation
Change heating matrix to lightweight version
Delete Front ARB
Clean up Subframe & powder coat
Change tie rods
Trim Wiring loom from redundant fittings
Change thermostat
Delete EVAP system
Install adjustable top mounts
Install TTRS Brake cooling Flaps
Power Steering Cooler

Theres also a potential of an oil cooler & Oil catch-can install, dependent on funds :wink:

The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll: 
Yeah right!


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!


So 3-2-1 back in the real world.... [smiley=jester.gif] .If you need any help I'm available this weekend. Just let me know.

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!


 :? I'd bet my left nut there's no way you'll finish all that in 12 hours.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Gonzalo1495 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!
> 
> 
> 
> :? I'd bet my left nut there's no way you'll finish all that in 12 hours.
Click to expand...

Hope you're not an accountant Gonzo [smiley=dunce2.gif]

:lol: 
VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!
> 
> 
> 
> :? I'd bet my left nut there's no way you'll finish all that in 12 hours.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hope you're not an accountant Gonzo [smiley=dunce2.gif]
> 
> :lol:
> VT
Click to expand...

 :lol: bless him!!

I could get the engine out and in again in that time, I'd even say no problem... However I don't currently possess a new MC so even if I wanted to it wouldn't be happening :lol:



Von Twinzig said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!
> 
> 
> 
> So 3-2-1 back in the real world.... [smiley=jester.gif] .If you need any help I'm available this weekend. Just let me know.
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

Haha thanks mate, I'll be happy with just getting the MC out Wednesday, so I can check the part number!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Are you absolutely sure it's not just the ABS circuit Nick? Mine was a total nightmare and only got sorted by Audi in Huntingdon after 3 hours of them faffing about bleeding and rebleeding the system.

VT


----------



## NickG

Not entirely, but I have bled so many times cycling the ABS in so many different combinations, with no improvement at any time.

If it's the same after a MC change then I won't be in a much worse off position financially as my stepdad can get me the part at trade price, I'll have got loads of my little niggles sorted and I'll have a spare... And still have a trip to a garage for bleedin' bleeding!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

In the air, fluids drained... Tomorrow, it's ONNNNNNNNN!!! 

Hell, this isn't a chore, I'm looking forward to this!!


----------



## 1781cc

Floating TT looks quite nice!

Good luck with this,interested in how you do the EVAP delete, I've finally got my Bentley manual and am gearing up to tackle this as well.

Hopefully you'll have it all sorted and back on track soon!


----------



## NickG

Successful day! Engine out, subframe out, stuff tidied!!




























Engine mounts are going to be sent out to be filled with Rubber, that should stiffen then up a tad.

Got my head around the power steering situation with help from Max, so I know where I can get the cooler in place now.

Starting to get me head around the EVAP delete I think, other then where the lines meet the pot thing where the fuel rail lines come from. Very weird! I'll post again when I've got some pics and had a better think.


----------



## NickG

Liquid Polyurethane Rubber has been ordered in Shore 85A hardness. For reference, the Powerflex purple range are around 70-80A shore and the Powerflex Black series are around 95A, so these mounts should sit somewhere between the two.

Thanks to Nem & Big Bison for the idea a while back! 

Lightweight heating Matrix has been ordered, this should save around 5kg and give a huge amount of extra room under the dash 8) I don't know how this will work, whether in conjunction with the OEM system's wiring, or if i just have to wire up a 12V feed and an on/off switch?

Thanks to Nem & Big Bison for the idea :wink:

Transmission cooler has also been ordered, so we can start looking at re-routing all that mess of pipework.

Better start getting the subframe stripped off really, ready for blasting and powder coating! 8)


----------



## 1781cc

I bow to your knowledge, I'd love to have those kind of skills to take an engine out and not royal f**k it all up!

I like the idea of the lightweight matrix as well, should get some more needed weight out of the front, its gonna be supermodel slim at the end of the day,


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nick, did you go for something like CBS lightweight heater?

VT


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> I bow to your knowledge, I'd love to have those kind of skills to take an engine out and not royal f**k it all up!
> 
> I like the idea of the lightweight matrix as well, should get some more needed weight out of the front, its gonna be supermodel slim at the end of the day,


Cheers dude, it's really only a case of learning how to undo things from awkward angles, then doing them back up in the right order! There's honestly no skill to it, barely any 'tolerances'... Just remember, bag the bits together and photograph! 



Von Twinzig said:


> Nick, did you go for something like CBS lightweight heater?
> 
> VT


I've gone for this;

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cockpit-ventilation/demon-tweeks-lightweight-heater

Retains use of the coolant, so no issues with pump pressure/resistance, and only 1.1kg so a nice big saving! Also much more compact!


----------



## Von Twinzig

I've been looking at the CBS range as they have ducting for floor and screen....

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/l ... car-heater

VT


----------



## KarlD

What I've done with my 2003 MINI is use the existing duct work and just cut off and block up the parts I'm not using - I'm just retaining the outer most driver and passenger vents (which can be pointed wherever and turned on and off) and the windscreen vent. The existing duct is all made from seriously thin and lightweight abs blow moulding. I'm hoping the ducting in the titty is similar.


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> What I've done with my 2003 MINI is use the existing duct work and just cut off and block up the parts I'm not using - I'm just retaining the outer most driver and passenger vents (which can be pointed wherever and turned on and off) and the windscreen vent. The existing duct is all made from seriously thin and lightweight abs blow moulding. I'm hoping the ducting in the titty is similar.


I can confirm it is! :wink:


----------



## NickG

Now THIS is light and I mean seriously light, naff all to it!! 







Look forward to pulling the old one out and opening up a huge amount of extra room!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Is it single speed Nick, just wired to an on/off switch?

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Is it single speed Nick, just wired to an on/off switch?
> 
> VT


I believe so, nothing fancy here, you can't even not have heat, so it's simply a de-mister fan... Cue cracking the Windows on a warm day! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Not that a dash vent offers much help anyway.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Put these in line...http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/1 ... ater-valve

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Put these in line...http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/1 ... ater-valve
> 
> VT


Good find!! Thanks mate 8)


----------



## Von Twinzig

Be 8)



VT


----------



## NickG

Only a minor update as I'm collecting parts still and prepping bits ready to re-assemble! I have however noticed that I've just ticked over 3 years of ownership!! How time flys... How progress doesn't :lol:

The master cylinder is now off, I'm relatively sure this is the culprit, whereas the front outlet provide some pressure when plugged and the piston pushed, the rear outlet provides very little feedback. The guy I've spoken to informs me this sounds much like I've flipped a seal in the cylinder so fluid is bypassing. I'm not going to mess around trying to repair the thing, so a new one has been ordered... Should do another 140,000 miles!



With the subframe out I have also now cleaned up it up, stripped off the 'to be binned' anti-roll bar and pushed out the old bushes. This has been sent off to the powder coaters for a refresh (why not hey!) and new solid bushes are in the process of being drawn up, for a tiny increase in performance.







Next up, I need to start looking at relocating the battery, installing the new heating matrix and finally blanking off what I need to from the EVAP delete!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Making good progress there Nick. Do you think your new front suspension will be stiff enough to do all the work?

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Making good progress there Nick. Do you think your new front suspension will be stiff enough to do all the work?
> 
> VT


Should be absolutely fine, it'll have the effect of removing about 100lbs/in per side, so not a massive amount, it'll still be much firmer then standard and at say 400lbs per side after the delete, firmer then most off the shelf kits still, with much greater independence.


----------



## KarlD

Not much of a hardship if you need to increase spring rates either. I can soon sort the wishbone bushes out so that they will comply with harder rates.
Also, looking at these squishy subframe mounting bushes on my desk, I think solid bushes should make a noticeable difference - if not now, then certainly with spherical wishbone bushes in the future.


----------



## 1781cc

I had the whole car superpro bushed when I got it, the difference was huge! What ones are you going for?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> I had the whole car superpro bushed when I got it, the difference was huge! What ones are you going for?


I bet! I've got spherical bearings for the strut top mounts at the front, poly wishbones for now (to be changed to spherical in the future) and standard trailing arm bushes for now until we change them to spherical bearings too!

The solid ones we will have machined, just for the front and rear subframes to keep it all tight!


----------



## KarlD

1781cc said:


> I had the whole car superpro bushed when I got it, the difference was huge! What ones are you going for?


Ones that I design and make for him 

Polyurethane bushes are brilliant (providing they are not too hard for the application - powerflex sell a lot of stuff that actually reduces joint articulation...), but for a 100% track car you can (should) just go full potato and do everything with spherical bearings. On road cars they can (but not always!) be too harsh, and you get so much feedback from the road surface that the ride becomes fatiguing.

Problem is, Nick is a bit of a pikey and quality bearings are not cheap, and I'm not doing it for free so until he pulls some money out of his arse I'm not doing anything other than the subframe mounts.


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the whole car superpro bushed when I got it, the difference was huge! What ones are you going for?
> 
> 
> 
> Ones that I design and make for him
> 
> Polyurethane bushes are brilliant (providing they are not too hard for the application - powerflex sell a lot of stuff that actually reduces joint articulation...), but for a 100% track car you can (should) just go full potato and do everything with spherical bearings. On road cars they can (but not always!) be too harsh, and you get so much feedback from the road surface that the ride becomes fatiguing.
> 
> Problem is, Nick is a bit of a pikey and quality bearings are not cheap, and I'm not doing it for free so until he pulls some money out of his arse I'm not doing anything other than the subframe mounts.
Click to expand...

I'll remember that when I've got my head in the wheel arch of a s****y mini again, looking like an angry pirate where rust has fallen off the car and into my eye, desperately trying to locate a trailing arm mount bolt... I'll remember that, put the bolt down my pants, walk off to the nearest ditch and shake until it falls out. Good luck finding that... :lol:


----------



## KarlD

NickG said:


> KarlD said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the whole car superpro bushed when I got it, the difference was huge! What ones are you going for?
> 
> 
> 
> Ones that I design and make for him
> 
> Polyurethane bushes are brilliant (providing they are not too hard for the application - powerflex sell a lot of stuff that actually reduces joint articulation...), but for a 100% track car you can (should) just go full potato and do everything with spherical bearings. On road cars they can (but not always!) be too harsh, and you get so much feedback from the road surface that the ride becomes fatiguing.
> 
> Problem is, Nick is a bit of a pikey and quality bearings are not cheap, and I'm not doing it for free so until he pulls some money out of his arse I'm not doing anything other than the subframe mounts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'll remember that when I've got my head in the wheel arch of a s****y mini again, looking like an angry pirate where rust has fallen off the car and into my eye, desperately trying to locate a trailing arm mount bolt... I'll remember that, put the bolt down my pants, walk off to the nearest ditch and shake until it falls out. Good luck finding that...
Click to expand...

Meh, I have spares.


----------



## NickG

KarlD said:


> Meh, I have spares.


Or do you? :twisted:


----------



## JonoCarter

engine in, engine out... good thread dude!


----------



## NickG

JonoCarter said:


> engine in, engine out... good thread dude!


Thanks mate! 

I don't plan to shake it all about.... but you never know [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## NickG

Made a little collection today, who doesn't love fresh powdercoat goodness!!





Also had the mounts blasted, ready for pouring the poly rubber...



And finally, put up the wheel rack to store those sexy track only Team Dynamics...


----------



## jamman

Nick I want proof you can pull money out ya arse

Where do you get the powder coating done, local to us ?


----------



## NickG

:lol: :lol: I work hard if that's what you mean!

For blasting subframe and mounts and then powdercoating the subframe I was charged £45 cash... Fentec & Style fencing located in Fengate (round the corner from my work!). It's handy having these contacts!!


----------



## jamman

Good price all things considered.


----------



## NickG

jamman said:


> Good price all things considered.


Not bad at all, they were very oily so I'd imagine they were a nightmare to blast!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Very orange. First stone chip will have you breathing into a paper bag. 

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Von Twinzig said:


> Very orange. First stone chip will have you breathing into a paper bag.
> 
> VT


Lmao I was just thinking this :lol:

@Nick we all know were this is eventually going, just go ahead and wrap the damn car already brother :lol:


----------



## jamman

That's a papaya orange V6 near us Nick that always looks good imo


----------



## NickG

Aghh yes the stone chips, it won't be much fun, but I'll deal with it, at lease for now the thing is oil, dirt and rust free, that was the main idea behind this!



Gonzalo1495 said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very orange. First stone chip will have you breathing into a paper bag.
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> Lmao I was just thinking this :lol:
> 
> @Nick we all know were this is eventually going, just go ahead and wrap the damn car already brother :lol:
Click to expand...

We won't be going full orange, all the bits that have gone orange are accents and highlights, there's a bigger plan for the main body of the car.... But not until we are on course for some sort of racing!!

I do like a papaya orange... Probably because I always wanted an Orange Focus ST ****Grabs coat and Runnnnnns!****


----------



## NickG

Well KarlD kindly made up these lovely solid bushes...



And so yesterday we set about pressing them in...





And you're not wrong, it will be a shame when this gets chipped or scratched [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## TT Tom TT

NickG said:


> Well KarlD kindly made up these lovely solid bushes...
> 
> 
> 
> And so yesterday we set about pressing them in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you're not wrong, it will be a shame when this gets chipped or scratched [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Nick, I don't mean to split hairs but I think this is likely to peel :lol:...


----------



## Von Twinzig

...and when it peels the water shoots underneath the coating and cooks the metal turning it into a rusty pile.(see TVR chassis) :? The guy in the unit next to mine restores classic cars, he uses chassis paint underneath. Told me the only time he powdercoats anything underside is on trailer queen show cars. My mate is the MD of a specialist metal coatings company, maybe should have been E coated first?

VT


----------



## NickG

Should be fine, she is a trailer queen remember does no more then 1000 miles a year and is in pieces more then she's together, so will be regularly inspected.


----------



## KarlD

Audi TT sub frame are like 27p each on eBay. We'll buy a bunch more as spares so we can swap over depending on whether we're attending a track day or show and shine.


----------



## Von Twinzig

Full of ideas :roll:

Talking of which, how's that lightweight f/g rear hatch with exige type louvres coming along Karl? :-*

VT


----------



## KarlD

Von Twinzig said:


> Full of ideas :roll:
> 
> Talking of which, how's that lightweight f/g rear hatch with exige type louvres coming along Karl? :-*
> 
> VT


Send the cash and it'll get done.


----------



## NickG

Don't send him cash, last time I sent cash he moaned for ages!! :lol: :roll:


----------



## KarlD

NickG said:


> Don't send him cash, last time I sent cash he moaned for ages!!  :roll:


That's because of what you expected me to do for the cash :-/


----------



## John-H

NickG said:


> Should be fine, she is a trailer queen remember does no more then 1000 miles a year and is in pieces more then she's together, so will be regularly inspected.


With those bushes I think your smoothest ride will be on the back of the trailer :wink:


----------



## NickG

John-H said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should be fine, she is a trailer queen remember does no more then 1000 miles a year and is in pieces more then she's together, so will be regularly inspected.
> 
> 
> 
> With those bushes I think your smoothest ride will be on the back of the trailer :wink:
Click to expand...

Funny you should say that, my friend used to own a BMW 330i... the smoothest ride i ever had in that was when we were hurtling sideways down a grass verge into a ditch. I've never had such a comfortable crash :roll:


----------



## Von Twinzig

KarlD said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Full of ideas :roll:
> 
> Talking of which, how's that lightweight f/g rear hatch with exige type louvres coming along Karl? :-*
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> Send the cash and it'll get done.
Click to expand...

Is this a random pile of cash, a la bank robbery, or something more specific, like an authorised withdrawal from ones current account? :roll:

VT


----------



## NickG

Minor bits and pieces completed again since the last update.

Managed to get the heater matrix out at last, that thing is HEAVY!! 6kg had been quoted but mine weighed in at 7.5kg in total! With the replacement being 1.2kg and much much smaller i'll be dropping a massive amount of weight and gaining a great deal of space.



We've measured up for the new blanking plates, one will be filled with a couple of bulkhead fittings ordered for the new heater pipes;



the other is going to be blanked off then drilled for the new battery cable to pass through, along with the line to the boost gauge and a couple of other wires, hopefully this'll start tidying the place up under the dash which has been a mess of wiring;



I'm hoping to be brave and trim down a bit more of the wiring loom, with ditching the climate control there's a lot more redundant wiring that can go to again tidy it up and lose a small amount of weight.

Thanks to a bit of Advice from Resident mad man Max, i'm also looking to raise the gear shifter by re-mounting the linkages on top of the tunnel and re-routing the cables through the firewall. This should raise the knob around 3 inches to get it much closer to the wheel without affecting the throw at all.


----------



## Madmax199

This is what the raised shifter looks like after adding a 2" extension to the rod. It has a perfect knob position for the most functional and natural shifting possible while using the standard shifter box. Been loving how it shifts in mine since doing this. I don't know why Audi didn't stick with that as the concept cars had the tall shift rod. It must be noted that after adding the rod extension, I shortened the throw slightly (can be done for free by drilling a new hole in the fulcrum closer to the pivot point on top of the transmission).


----------



## 1781cc

Nice update, added to my list of things to do! I'm not an engine puller, could this be done with the engine in situ but the dash and all gubbons removed? Is it easy to plumb up and what do you do with the control unit?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Nice update, added to my list of things to do! I'm not an engine puller, could this be done with the engine in situ but the dash and all gubbons removed? Is it easy to plumb up and what do you do with the control unit?


Ummm it's mainly about accessing the screws to remove the old matrix and also installing the new pipework/blanking plates for the new hoses... I'd say it could probably be done though, with a bit of patience!!

Had my favourite part for a long time turn up today...



All the gear, no idea springs to mind!! :lol: still, another thing crossed off the list come the time to actually compete!!


----------



## John-H

Dancing shoes!


----------



## TT Tom TT

NickG said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice update, added to my list of things to do! I'm not an engine puller, could this be done with the engine in situ but the dash and all gubbons removed? Is it easy to plumb up and what do you do with the control unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Ummm it's mainly about accessing the screws to remove the old matrix and also installing the new pipework/blanking plates for the new hoses... I'd say it could probably be done though, with a bit of patience!!
> 
> Had my favourite part for a long time turn up today...
> 
> 
> 
> All the gear, no idea springs to mind!! :lol: still, another thing crossed off the list come the time to actually compete!!
Click to expand...

Damn, those are snazzy.


----------



## 1781cc

So I am doing this:



And I'm starting to realise the heating system is a real pain and would be better off being removed, do you think this could be removed engine in? I don't mind breaking the heater, but what did you do control/vent wise? I presume it replaces the whole hvac system with an in/out water feed and a separate on/off switch? Any other pipes needed? I'm looking to you for Jedi like guidance on this one lol


----------



## NickG

Good work!!! 

To get it out, you'll have to try and break the clips, i've posted the locations with pictures in the "church of the lightweight" thread. You'll want to drain the coolant first, then disconnect the two big coolant pipes that go through the firewall.

Then you just want to remove as many of the electrical connections as you can find going to the matrix.

Then just encourage it out...










I'm just going to run a simple fan speed switch to control the new lightweight one. 8)


----------



## 1781cc

Cool mate, thanks for heads up - what are you doing with the vent ducting? I presume you only want it venting to the front screen? I've been looking at the demon tweaks heater that's on there, it's about a ton so not bad?


----------



## NickG

Yeah i'm only going to run one duct and tie it into the screen/side window ducting piece from the existing system (Seals onto a moulded passage in the dash when the dash is installed).


----------



## Von Twinzig

1781cc said:


> Cool mate, thanks for heads up - what are you doing with the vent ducting? I presume you only want it venting to the front screen? I've been looking at the demon tweaks heater that's on there, it's about a ton so not bad?


I'm collecting the parts too.

Check out Car Builder Solutions for parts http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/h ... entilation Used them a lot over the years.

Used boat ducting too in the past....










The connector takes hot air from the sill tubes and distributes it to the screen (top pipe) and your feet (bottom pipe). The ducting at the top takes ambient ram air from the scuttle vent and directs it through a central air vent in the dash.
VT


----------



## 1781cc

Thank so for replies guys, I was looking at the existing tapered duct, but the car builder solutions link is appreciated and is food for thought, I just hope I haven't chopped any of the wrong wires so far ha ha


----------



## 1781cc

I am wondering if the following might be a better way for me to go (maybe install 2 of them) and do away with any hot water hoses coming into the cockpit. My thinking being that from what I have read the traditional lightweight heaters can still add to cockpit temps, which would be fine in the winter, however in the summer you want the opposite (and thats when most track days usually happen)

Anyone looked at this option? would be very simple in terms of wiring in as well (although to be fair, its only 4 cables for the other option anyway)

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/e ... ist-heater


----------



## Von Twinzig

1781cc said:


> I am wondering if the following might be a better way for me to go (maybe install 2 of them) and do away with any hot water hoses coming into the cockpit. My thinking being that from what I have read the traditional lightweight heaters can still add to cockpit temps, which would be fine in the winter, however in the summer you want the opposite (and thats when most track days usually happen)
> 
> Anyone looked at this option? would be very simple in terms of wiring in as well (although to be fair, its only 4 cables for the other option anyway)
> 
> http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/e ... ist-heater


Hmmmm....the mate who gave me the water based heater offered me that same electric one too, told me it was hopeless. He now runs with a wipe of washing up liquid on the inside of the screen instead. Sounds daft, but works perfectly.

VT


----------



## 1781cc

Oh... maybe not then!!! Lol


----------



## NickG

I'm looking to put a bypass valve and tube into mine, so in the summer i can turn it off and keep heat out of the cockpit!

How do they keep racecars ventilated on hot summer's days?! (That one day a year!!)


----------



## Von Twinzig

Remember me talking about boat stuff? I've got one of these waiting to be plumbed in with some ducting.......

http://www.tcschandlery.co.uk/rule-100m ... GwodiE8Hsg

VT


----------



## NickG

I've had a couple of bits laser cut to fill the holes left in the bulkhead now, as well as provide a mount point for the new coolant hoses to the heater matrix, I'm pleased with how they've worked out!







I should have most of what I need to start putting her back together now, I need to get her rolling and braking as a priority, so I can move house next month, the engine can be transported easy enough on a pallet.


----------



## 1781cc

Looking good mate, nice fit, quite looking forward to these arriving!

When do you move?


----------



## NickG

Tidied this up... suppose I should install it really and get this moving along!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Much smarter. 8)

VT


----------



## NickG

With a house move looming i've HAD to get the TiTTy rolling again, to be able to trailer her to her new home... so this weekend i braved the cold and got the subframe back on;





I have to say i'm loving the blue and orange theme and will be continuing this throughout! As she sits now, ready to roll...





I can't wait to get back on with her and drive her again! 8)


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> With a house move looming i've HAD to get the TiTTy rolling again, to be able to trailer *it to its* new home... so this weekend i braved the cold and got the subframe back on.
> 
> I can't wait to get back on with *things* and drive *it* again! 8)


Good work Nick. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]. Are you going to exchange that purple Powerflex dogbone bush for something a bit more rigid? Especially as you'll have uprated the engine mounts.

VT

p.s. I've corrected that soppy feminine pronoun nonsense for you. It's a flippin car mate :roll:


----------



## NickG

Yeah, I'll perhaps press a solid bush in there at some point, it's easy enough to do when I get round to it in the future, only a couple of bolts and easily accessible!

You've got to Love your car... I'm not quite as close with mine as Vettel is with his, I've neither named her nor bowed down to her... yet!?


----------



## Von Twinzig

Inanimate object love can get you in the newspapers...

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstop ... -cars.html

Best nip it in the bud whist you still can. She's an it. :-*

VT


----------



## NickG

Or is it a She? :roll:

Anyway, moving on, did you happen to see the Coolerwork stand and more specifically their range of custom shifters?










They looked like very nice pieces of kit and at a much more competitive price than the ever popular CAE shifters!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nope, missed that one. Looks nice.

VT


----------



## brushwood69

I missed it to! Do they do one for VAG? theCAE one is very nice but at a big £1k too expensive so if these do a cheaper one maybe worth looking into


----------



## NickG

Yep they do the exact one for our car! Iirc the price was around £550 for the shifter, which I thought was quite reasonable. Quality seemed good on the demo one he had (coincidently an underslung 6-speed VAG shofter identical to ours)


----------



## NickG

Minor Progress....

She's been carted off to her new home, ready for the real rebuilding work to commence...





Sitting in a lovely double garage now and before long i'll have finished renovating the new plus size double garage in order to really be able to spread out! 8) Hopefully this will be a productive summer!

We've also finally poured the poly engine mounts, very happy with the results and equally happy to find out Prawn (off of Prawns A3 build) done this 4 years ago using the exact same stuff and it has worked with great affect to this day!









To recap we used 85A Shore liquid polyurethane, if i recall, powerflex purple is 70A Shore and Powerflex Black is 90A shore so this gives you a rough idea of how hard this stuff is. Hopefully a lot of the slop will have gone and engine response will be a bit quicker in theory, but without compromising too much with vibrations.

A week off on holiday and then i plan to crack on with rebuilding, ALL i have left to do is;


New brake Master Cylinder
New baffled Sump
Lightweight Battery Relocation
lightweight heating matrix installation
Trim unused Wiring loom
Change thermostat
Delete EVAP system
Install adjustable top mounts
Install RS Brake cooling Flaps
Power Steering Cooler


----------



## intott

Hi Nick, good progress chap. Iv just done the same with my engine mounts with 60shore polyurethane and I must admit the vibrations are very noticeable. Keep us posted on how your feel as i'm interested to see if you feel any increase in cabin vibration.

Cheers


----------



## NickG

Atlast! I've taken 1781cc's lead and tried to crack on with some things!

Now that she's in a nice big warm(ish) garage it's given me that extra motivation and more so the ability to put a decent shift in... 11pm before downing tools tonight!

Got her up on axel stands yesterday and set to work. Ive been dreading two jobs, 1) I knackered the thread on both wishbone subframe front mounts (left masking tape in there when doing up - idiot) and feared the worse. Luckily, after buying the correct m12x1.5mm tap and borrowing a handle, I've managed to clear them out and they're now smoother then ever! So happy about that as my mind has been pondering a new subframe for over a month now!!.

Task 2) was these bloody brakes. It's been worrying me for a long time, praying that it was just the master cylinder had popped a seal. So I connected the new one up today, bled the system... same f-ing problem :evil:

At this point I drafted in the father in-law, who suggested we go old school on the bleeding. I became a pedal jockey and listened carefully for instructions! After doing all the calipers it was slightly better, but not perfect. He then bled the ABS somehow (no idea how - but it worked!) followed by the master cylinder and HEY PRESTO! We have a pedal!!! Not perfect, maybe 85-90%... but without the engine in for servo assitance that'll do me nicely before a full flush with race fluid once the engine is back in. 9 months and 10+ litres of fluid later and we are back in business!!



Now it's just a long list of bolt on style jobs, no 'problems' so to speak, until they inevitably arise... I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!


----------



## 1781cc

Man, bet you wish you hadn't started at this rate, but good that you are making progress.

How long before you think you'll have the engine back in and running?


----------



## NickG

I'm in a good place right now with it, very motivated!

Well, ideally 11th-12th March as i'm *desperate* to make Dave Howls memorial on the 19th March at Rockingham. All being well i don't see that as unachievable... but we know how easy hiccups can arrive. :roll:


----------



## 1781cc

I really wanted to make that but its my brother's stag do so I have no chance of getting out of that one.

I'll be interested to see yours in the flesh when its ready 8)


----------



## NickG

Well, I got the heater matrix mounted, the coolant pipe bulkhead adapter rivetted in place and the hole cut for the gear linkage relocation today. Also started sorting out the battery relocation, so a little bit of progress, albeit a slow day!


----------



## 1781cc

Interesting position compared to mine, but good to see different takes on things. I've been very impressed with the heater thus far, great purchase.what you tackling next gearbox shifter?


----------



## NickG

That's good to know, I'm hoping to try and connect it up to the dash vents when that goes in.

Yeah, gearshifter tomorrow, get that in and maybe mount the battery!


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> That's good to know, I'm hoping to try and connect it up to the dash vents when that goes in.
> 
> Yeah, gearshifter tomorrow, get that in and maybe mount the battery!


I bunged 3 of the outlets up with climaflex pipe insulating material, its pliable and can handle the temperature, rolls up tight and expands to fill the hole. This left a single outlet to the expanding plastic piece that feeds air into the centra dash demist below the screen - cleared the windows pretty quick yesterday. For best effect revs have to be above 2K rpm as thats then there is a better heat flow of water through the matrix, below that the fan is still working efficiently but there isn't much heat.


----------



## NickG

That's pretty much exactly what I had in mind! Keeps the little side window demisters that way too I believe.


----------



## NickG

So this week in the evenings, I've been working on a mounting bracket for the gear shifter inside the car... I'll be honest, it's rough as hell, really rough... but it'll do until I can get something laser cut and powdercoated when I have the time! Right now I just had to get something that works ready for 19th.





It's moved the knob up about 3 inches closer to the wheel, without altering the throw at all, which is the desired effect!


----------



## ProjectMick

Looking good - seems to be moving in the right direction.

Although I'm now just waiting for you to post up your EVAP delete (unless I've missed it) so that I can copy you!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

NickG said:


> So this week in the evenings, I've been working on a mounting bracket for the gear shifter inside the car... I'll be honest, it's rough as hell, really rough... but it'll do until I can get something laser cut and powdercoated when I have the time! Right now I just had to get something that works ready for 19th.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's moved the knob up about 3 inches closer to the wheel, without altering the throw at all, which is the desired effect!


Nicely done! That is awesome, and I've been pondering how to achieve that affect for a while now without altering the size, shape, or throw of the shift lever but this was the rather too obvious answer. [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## 1781cc

Nice work mate, looks like it's going to do what you want, shove in a forge short shift and left/right shift and you should be shifting quickly in no time (if the car ever goes back together) :lol:


----------



## NickG

Thanks Guys,

It's getting there, finishing off all the little fiddly bits currently, hoping to start on engine installation at the weekend!



ProjectMick said:


> Although I'm now just waiting for you to post up your EVAP delete (unless I've missed it) so that I can copy you!


I haven't tackled that yet, not looking forward to it, but when i do and if it works then i'll happily post an easy guide!


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> Thanks Guys,
> 
> It's getting there, finishing off all the little fiddly bits currently, hoping to start on engine installation at the weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Although I'm now just waiting for you to post up your EVAP delete (unless I've missed it) so that I can copy you!
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tackled that yet, not looking forward to it, but when i do and if it works then i'll happily post an easy guide!
Click to expand...

You aren't a BAM engine are you? I need a guide on how to remove the BAM one. Whats yours APX?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys,
> 
> It's getting there, finishing off all the little fiddly bits currently, hoping to start on engine installation at the weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> ProjectMick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Although I'm now just waiting for you to post up your EVAP delete (unless I've missed it) so that I can copy you!
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tackled that yet, not looking forward to it, but when i do and if it works then i'll happily post an easy guide!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You aren't a BAM engine are you? I need a guide on how to remove the BAM one. Whats yours APX?
Click to expand...

I'm an APX I'm afraid, I think that's where half my problem is coming from!


----------



## NickG

Little bit of progress today in between teaching a bit of Motorcycle riding!

The Bulkhead plate, featuring holes for the new battery cable, the boost gauge hose and oil pressure signal wire has been installed... nice and easy and looks like it's always been there...



Then I moved onto installing the new Silver Project Top Mounts, with a little help from Prawn to ensure I finally got all the hardware in the correct order!! They seem like nice bits of kit, I'm sure there are ways they could be improved however they seem up to most abuse as they come.







Tomorrow's task... get the battery mounted and the rest of the interior back in... leaving just the engine!


----------



## John-H

Hi Nick,

How does the steel plate that moves join to the piston rod - is it a rose joint? Any pictures of that?

Cheers,
John


----------



## NickG

Hi John,

The only other picture I have is this one...



It's a spherical bearing in the housing as you say!


----------



## John-H

Looks like nothing is going to get bent there.

Are these the ones for the Mk4 Golf:

https://silverproject.eu/en/shop/audi-2 ... eon-black/


----------



## Von Twinzig

John, I'd be up for a set if they did another deal. Missed out last time.

VT


----------



## 1781cc

Same here!


----------



## NickG

A few more little bits done over the weekend, the heater matrix has been hooked up, hosed up and the dash re-installed along with the existing vent mounted gauges.

The battery has also been mounted and wired in behind the passenger seat, along with the new cut-off switch which has found its home in another existing vent hole...



The sump has been replaced for a nice new Forge baffled sump, hopefully no more oil leakage issues!



Also managed to sort out a heat shield bracket that fixed near the exhaust manifold... it's been loose for a while and has been driving me mad!!

Hopefully not much left until I can mount the engine now... hopefully!


----------



## John-H

Have you not got to have the battery isolation switch on the outside of the car - so where's that then? I always found it was a great anti theft device too!


----------



## NickG

You certainly do! So most club level racers use a Bowden cable, you can't see in the picture but there is a hole for it in the key. I plan to make a much neater switch panel at some point, so when I do that I'll install the cable to the outside too. Gunna need a fire system in place to before racing... extinguishing not making I should add!!


----------



## John-H

Not sure what the regs are now. I just had a 2.5kg BCF and lots of aluminium and fibreglass.


----------



## 1781cc

Nice progress there.. the forge sump is a good idea, it was my first proper "mod" and I think that and the oil cooler were essentials.

You know you can save some weight by removing the rear demist and ESP buttons right? ;-p


----------



## NickG

Yeah I've had one ever since I started tracking her. I was trying to trace a minor oil leak for 18 months when I one day noticed the cause was a couple of blown welds on the sump! Forge were spot on about it and sent a replacement, I've finally gotten around to fitting the new one!

Haha I do plan to have a full electrical strip out, just want the thing running before we start so we can test as we go!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Baffled sump...hmmmm.

VT


----------



## NickG

Von Twinzig said:


> Baffled sump...hmmmm.
> 
> VT


It has to be done, one of the first modifications i made, anything that might stand a chance of saving an engine build!


----------



## John-H

NickG said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Baffled sump...hmmmm.
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> It has to be done, one of the first modifications i made, anything that might stand a chance of saving an engine build!
Click to expand...

And a comp oil with plenty of high pressure beating additives. I saw an impressive video once showing their benefits. I think it was for Gulf Competition. Also ester oils tend to cling.


----------



## NickG

Updates have been few and far between recently, mainly as I've been busy working on other projects which will be beneficial to the TT...







What started life as a haybarn is very rapidly being converted into my new garage/workshop. Raising the roof this weekend all being well and getting some doors on, then we'll have a nice tidy space to continue with the TT.


----------



## 1781cc

Ahh man, why not put a pit in? unless you are planning ramps?

Lovely space to have though :-0


----------



## NickG

I really don't do pits, i have a weird Claustrophobia type feeling when in one! :lol: I Don't however usually struggle being squashed under the car when it's on stands at all.

Certainly will be a great space to have though, I've been struggling as i had been in a double garage that was used frequently by others (Hey, it's their garage) so i had to start over each time i went to the car... now i can spread myself out in the knowledge i won't be in anyone's way and stuff will still be where i left it 8)


----------



## NickG

So progress had clearly slowed this year, but I'm starting to get a move on again now!










Got the drilled 82 deg thermostat in, hopefully it'll help a couple of degrees with cooling due to the slight additional flow!










The master cylinder was long changed, I think we have a decent pedal now, so the engine is making its way back in! The DIY poly engine mounts so far seem like a real win, very stable now, NVH will obviously increase but keeping the engine in one place will be so beneficial to the whole vehicle, reducing stress on other components etc.










The relocated shifter cables are attached, I need to bleed the clutch then dig out the cable reset procedure as at the moment the gear shifting feels lumpy as hell, but I'm hoping doing these will rectify the issue.

The electrics inside are all sorted now too, with the new fan and cut off switch both working as they should. KarlD is on the case making a lovely fan switch mount too.


----------



## 1781cc

Good to see some progress mate, garage looks good too, although, don't spend too much time on that sofa!!


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Good to see some progress mate, garage looks good too, although, don't spend too much time on that sofa!!


Hahaha it's actually a Sofabed, so if anything I could get more done on those late nights :lol:


----------



## NickG

Small bit of progress this weekend, after changing the layout of the gear shifter, to bring it higher up and closer to the steering wheel, on installation of the engine and hooking up the shifting was difficult at best... I wasn't happy and had been pondering it for a couple of weeks.










Anyway, I saw a post pop up from Dieselgeek with a shifter reset:






Turns out this is a brilliant guide and Audi have designed a very clever system here! Followed the instructions and now all 7 gears are exactly where they should be!! Panic over and ready to crack on!


----------



## NickG

Picked up some goodies today for the future for an absolute bargain...










235/610/17 Dunlop slicks from the JCW Mini Challenge cup cars, the same compound as BTCC and made for 17x9j wheels... only used for one qualifying session on Charlie Butler-Hundersons car and have 3.7-3.8mm of 4mm left all round! Half the cost of new Nankangs so figured it was worth a try in the future (might already have a 2nd set lined up too!!).


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> Picked up some goodies today for the future for an absolute bargain...
> 
> 
> 
> 235/610/17 Dunlop slicks from the JCW Mini Challenge cup cars, the same compound as BTCC and made for 17x9j wheels... only used for one qualifying session on Charlie Butler-Hundersons car and have 3.7-3.8mm of 4mm left all round! Half the cost of new Nankangs so figured it was worth a try in the future (might already have a 2nd set lined up too!!).


Bugger, I was looking at these, they the £80 variety? I noticed he sells them at 3 price intervals based on usage, £60, £65 and £80 for the nearly new ones.

I picked up a set of ultra lite wheels the other day ready for these to go on them...


----------



## NickG

A little bit more progress made yesterday, got the Mocal Oil cooler all but installed, just need to construct the front end now to get the rad mounted properly. Slowly coming together bit by bit.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Good progress and mods Nick!


----------



## NickG

A little sneak peak from the weekends work...


----------



## desertstorm

Looking very nice, I have a 19 row Mocal cooler to fit. I will have to change from the larger oil filter I previously fitted to a smaller size as I have kept the intercooler pipe across the front.
Do you run helper springs on the front coilovers as with the setting as low as it will go it's running about 350mm on the front.
And do you run with the adjusters on the rear as it's sitting around 370mm again at the lowest setting.


----------



## NickG

Yeah I've got the intercooler pipe in place still too, plenty of room!

Regarding the coilovers, I don't run helper springs at the minute and I do use the adjusters at the rear, however I purchased a 2nd set of rear springs for the rear that are an 1" shorter so that one day I can have the car corner balanced properly!


----------



## NickG

Well things are Rolling again, to an extent. The trailing arms have been removed to allow us to make the new spherical bearing instead of a powerflex Black one. While they're off I figure I may as well clean them up and paint them, started the prep work on one so far.










While this is going on, two new sets of adjustable tie bars with spherical bearing inners are being constructed!

So this weekend I decided to finish off the inside and tick some tasks off the to do list;

- redundant studs removed (a godsend, these cause so much pain!!)
- Battery relocation wired up with cut off
- Lightweight heater wired in
- Wiring tucked and tidied where possible
- Seats reinstalled

It's looking a bit better and I'm starting to see the light at the end!


----------



## 1781cc

Good to hear it's it's getting back flowing, and omg I hear you on the redundant studs, I so need to do that...

You can still save weight from the interior, redundant vents, rear demist switch and wires, you stripped off bulkhead sound deadening yet? Redundant headlining metal tabs, redundant dash brace brackets...?


----------



## NickG

Hahaha yeah it's not a nice job, so much mess and metal shards everywhere!

The wiringloom and dashtube tidy is to be another project shortly before cage install! Having seen how much of a mess it can turn into removing the tube, I didn't want another job holding the build back for now! There's definitely some weight in the roof brackets etc. too, again the best time will be with the cage. Can get it all sprayed up neatly too.


----------



## desertstorm

Looking good Nick. Thats where I was thinking of putting the battery. Doesn't need to go all the way in the boot, You are just adding weight with extra wire and the extra run of wire gives more volt drop. Not what you need with a smaller battery. Been watching prices on the PC680 cheapest I have seen is £92 so will keep watching them for a while.
I would have turned the battery round I think and run the negative to the large bolt on the B pillar support. The positive could have been a little shorter as well as it wouldn't have to run back across the battery. All weight saved  .
Bucking the trend I will probably be leaving the roof lining in as well as the A pillar trims. Can't see they weigh that much and the roof lining will absorb a lot of noise in the car.


----------



## NickG

Agreed, I would have like it the other way around, however the cage only lets it sit one way due to the fact that the battery terminals sit in a recessed area, you can just about make it out in the pic!

Weight's weight but I guess it really does depend what the car is to be used for... I still have ambitions to race this thing so every little will help!


----------



## Woodhouse

NickG said:


> Agreed, I would have like it the other way around, however the cage only lets it sit one way due to the fact that the battery terminals sit in a recessed area, you can just about make it out in the pic!
> 
> Weight's weight but I guess it really does depend what the car is to be used for... I still have ambitions to race this thing so every little will help!


Brilliant work, I'm working my way through through reading this thread, very well done


----------



## NickG

Thanks mate 8) it's getting there, 2017 was a slow year for various reasons, but I'm hoping 2018 will bring the project literally back on track!


----------



## NickG

Well as a 2017 year round-up, there's one key number that speaks for itself this year:

Trackdays attended: 0










2018 that WILL change, little bits are getting finished and I'm confident it will all come together very quickly at one cliche ridden point! Away from the TT but still on the driving side I have my ARDS test pack in hand and will look to complete the practical test in January, at Snetterton I should think. Just as important, I've finally got a dedicated car helmet, been looking for one in this style for a while (that also didn't kill the budget!) FIA approved until at least 2023/2025 I think it was;










And a little bit of progress on the car over Xmas, rear trailing arms have been cleaned up and painted, ready to receive the new custom made spherical bearing housing.










BRING ON 2018!!!


----------



## 1781cc

I'm really jealous you have a garage to work in without freezing or getting soaking, mine has been at a standstill for two months now. Well done on the ARDS so far as well!


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> I'm really jealous you have a garage to work in without freezing or getting soaking, mine has been at a standstill for two months now. Well done on the ARDS so far as well!


It certainly helps! Ended up doing these at work mind you and it was bloody freezing! Hope the paint drys ok!


----------



## Woodhouse

NickG said:


> Well as a 2017 year round-up, there's one key number that speaks for itself this year:
> 
> Trackdays attended: 0
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> 2018 that WILL change, little bits are getting finished and I'm confident it will all come together very quickly at one cliche ridden point! Away from the TT but still on the driving side I have my ARDS test pack in hand and will look to complete the practical test in January, at Snetterton I should think. Just as important, I've finally got a dedicated car helmet, been looking for one in this style for a while (that also didn't kill the budget!) FIA approved until at least 2023/2025 I think it was;
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> And a little bit of progress on the car over Xmas, rear trailing arms have been cleaned up and painted, ready to receive the new custom made spherical bearing housing.
> 
> 
> 
> BRING ON 2018!!!


 after my Mallory adventure I'd quite fancy coming to watch you at a trackday quite enjoyed watching the cars where do you plan on running in 2018?


----------



## NickG

Little bit more done today...














































I'm not sure on where I'll be going this year, but I'll defonitely keep the thread up dated with plans!


----------



## 1781cc

Looks good mate, what did you use to core drill the crashbar?


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Looks good mate, what did you use to core drill the crashbar?


Cheers dude, just a 52mm hss core drill


----------



## 1781cc

Thanks bud, I've been weighing up removing the crashbar entirely, something in the back of my head says no, I think you've got the right idea!


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Thanks bud, I've been weighing up removing the crashbar entirely, something in the back of my head says no, I think you've got the right idea!


Yeah I don't think it's worth entirely removing it, for me I need it in there right now as it's the bracket for the FMIC and Oil cooler. I am planning to make a replacement tubular one though to do this job at some point next year, as well as open up more airflow still.


----------



## desertstorm

The front crash structure beam isn't that heavy. I think you can get enough air to a big FMIC by putting so guides on the the side of the FMIC to stop the air spilling off the front and forcing it up behind the bumper. Getting rid of the AC would help airflow and lose some weight where it matters. I found my AC on the Passat was quite badly affected by the large FMIC I put on it.
It really needs air as cool as possible to work effectively and when the car was working hard and the FMIC was hot the AC really struggled to produce meaningful amounts of cold air.


----------



## 1781cc

desertstorm said:


> The front crash structure beam isn't that heavy. I think you can get enough air to a big FMIC by putting so guides on the the side of the FMIC to stop the air spilling off the front and forcing it up behind the bumper. Getting rid of the AC would help airflow and lose some weight where it matters. I found my AC on the Passat was quite badly affected by the large FMIC I put on it.
> It really needs air as cool as possible to work effectively and when the car was working hard and the FMIC was hot the AC really struggled to produce meaningful amounts of cold air.


AC has long gone on mine mate, I think Nick's is the same, it was one of the first things removed. I think the guides idea isnt bad, similar to the Airtek FMIC, however I went for the forge and dont need the crashbar for any FMIC mounting purposes. so aside from possibly saving my legs in a shunt, its largely redundant


----------



## NickG

Yeah AC has long gone, regarding the crashbar, there is the lower intercooler crosstube too, which is shown in theTT structural diagrams. The general consensus was to keep one or the over to provide some protection but also structural rigidity at the front. I'm planning to make a nice tubular crashbar replacement, complete with intercooler and oil cooler mounting points and then remove the lower intercooler crosstube!

Also, silly pointless update...










I'm really pleased with the helmet in all honesty, FIA approved complete with HANS posts and only £220!!


----------



## 1781cc

The lower intercooler pipe is quite heavy, if you are planning to make a bar, that's the one I would make and will be getting made up later on.

It'll make access easier for servicing, etc...

Nice helmet btw


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> The lower intercooler pipe is quite heavy, if you are planning to make a bar, that's the one I would make and will be getting made up later on.
> 
> It'll make access easier for servicing, etc...
> 
> Nice helmet btw


I think the intercooler pipe is 2.2kg and the crashbar is 2kg iirc! So it gives me a lot of weight to play with to make something beefy that will replace them both!


----------



## desertstorm

I am hoping to pick up a helmet at the Autosport exhibition. Haven't been for a few years but they seem to have some good deals on there the last time I went. I have no intention of racing the car competitively so the spec is not quite as important.
I actually fancy an open face helmet as I find it quite claustrophobic in a car. Having raced karts for many years and ridden bikes I am well used to full face helmets but it just doesn't feel right in a car.
I think it would be more comfortable in the summer as well when it's hot.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> I am hoping to pick up a helmet at the Autosport exhibition. Haven't been for a few years but they seem to have some good deals on there the last time I went. I have no intention of racing the car competitively so the spec is not quite as important.
> I actually fancy an open face helmet as I find it quite claustrophobic in a car. Having raced karts for many years and ridden bikes I am well used to full face helmets but it just doesn't feel right in a car.
> I think it would be more comfortable in the summer as well when it's hot.


I was fed up with wearing a bike helmet, with the visor in it was too much! I've been looking for a closed face with a peak instead of visir for about 2 years as I believe this is the best compromise, I don't like the idea of an open face.

Until I found this it was only the big boys that seemed to do this style however at £400+. I'd love a stilo Carbon st5 GT but can't warrant £1400 on a helmet :lol:

What day are you at AIS? I'm going on the Saturday for a day out! I didn't see much in the way of kit bargains last year if I'm honest, I was a bit disappointed with that aspect.


----------



## desertstorm

Booked a ticket to go to the Autosport show next Saturday, Going on the train as it only cost me £7.60 return and parking is £12 at the show. Just means I can't buy loads of stuff  .
Been looking at Helmets and hopefully Hedtec will be there, they seem to show at pretty much all the big Motorsport shows.
Quite like the look of this, hopefully be a bit cheaper at the show.
https://www.hedtec.co.uk/products/open- ... 5fia-8859/
We should meet up.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Booked a ticket to go to the Autosport show next Saturday, Going on the train as it only cost me £7.60 return and parking is £12 at the show. Just means I can't buy loads of stuff  .
> Been looking at Helmets and hopefully Hedtec will be there, they seem to show at pretty much all the big Motorsport shows.
> Quite like the look of this, hopefully be a bit cheaper at the show.
> https://www.hedtec.co.uk/products/open- ... 5fia-8859/
> We should meet up.


Having looked, i'm 99% sure their helmets are the same as the RRS one i have! :lol: Mine was cheaper through RRS however looking at their open face offerings, they don't sell them without HANS clips so are a bit more expensive.


----------



## desertstorm

There are several versions of these helmets available in different countries. As most things these days they appear to be made in China.
http://www.chinahelmet.com.cn/w/186.html They just get tweaked with different stickers, colors , trim etc .
http://rodia6688.en.hisupplier.com/
I thinks these are from the same factory
http://www.v2sport.com/index.html


----------



## NickG

The V2 peak helmet looks pretty cool!!


----------



## NickG

At last some real progress...






That's right, the beast is alive once more!!! All has seemed to go without a hitch too surprisingly!

Really impressed with the oddesy battery, it's been sat in a box for 18 months, yet when asked to perform 4 x 15sec cranks today, followed by a standard start, it didn't bat an eyelid!! Brilliant bit of kit!

Also I added a little bit of heat protection to the new coolant pipes which run too close to the turbo for my liking.
The Funk motorsport heat sleeving is fantastic quality and looks the part!










Not too much left to do now before she's moving again... fingers crossed the brakes are sorted!!


----------



## 1781cc

Hurrah! It's alive... been a long time coming!

Hopefully you'll be on track soon enough


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Hurrah! It's alive... been a long time coming!
> 
> Hopefully you'll be on track soon enough


I hope so too!! Not too much now to put back together... it's coming!!


----------



## NickG

Me news, not car news... Passed my ARDS test today to gain my National 'B' racing licence! (Which demands another stupid picture!)










It was a VERY wet day at Rockingham, in the morning I witnessed 4 red flags including a very expensive race Aston Martin going into the wall! All in all, a great experience and another step up the ladder towards racing!


----------



## 1781cc

That wall is expensive, saw a GT3 race car get totalled there on a track day too.

Well done bud


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> That wall is expensive, saw a GT3 race car get totalled there on a track day too.
> 
> Well done bud


Easily done as well!! That track is like ICE in the wet!! It didn't help that for the purposes of the test you had to take the standard racing line, rather then a wet line, but even so, it was crazy slippery.


----------



## desertstorm

Good news with the pass. I am not considering racing, spent too many years racing in karts getting RAC competition licences, medicals etc and then always having to buy new tyres and bit's and pieces to be competitive.


----------



## Jay-225

NickG said:


> Little bit more done today...
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure on where I'll be going this year, but I'll defonitely keep the thread up dated with plans!


Excellent progress mate BUT please use some jubilee clips on the ends of the oil cooler hoses , i know they are meant to be a tight fit but jubilee clips will make sure they stay in place and never come off, Bill agrees with this and pretty sure he said he has seen them fly off on cold start when pressure is high when not using jubilee clips [smiley=bigcry.gif] better to be safe then sorry especially when it comes to oil 

Also why have you gone for an electrical oil pressure gauge rather than a mechanical ? im weighing up which one to use and would rather mechanical but am a little concerned that oil has to come into the cabin to get it working....

Will be in touch this coming week for 2 of the vent gauge adapters as well, just awaiting payday :lol:


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Good news with the pass. I am not considering racing, spent too many years racing in karts getting RAC competition licences, medicals etc and then always having to buy new tyres and bit's and pieces to be competitive.


It certainly can be! I don't know how much racing the TT will be involved in, I still think the future holds a single make series of some description for exactly that reason... regulations keep costs spiralling and the difference is the driver not the car! I also hope to race with a few other people in a team, fingers crossed I have a C1 endurance event lined up!



Jay-225 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little bit more done today...
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure on where I'll be going this year, but I'll defonitely keep the thread up dated with plans!
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent progress mate BUT please use some jubilee clips on the ends of the oil cooler hoses , i know they are meant to be a tight fit but jubilee clips will make sure they stay in place and never come off, Bill agrees with this and pretty sure he said he has seen them fly off on cold start when pressure is high when not using jubilee clips [smiley=bigcry.gif] better to be safe then sorry especially when it comes to oil
> 
> Also why have you gone for an electrical oil pressure gauge rather than a mechanical ? im weighing up which one to use and would rather mechanical but am a little concerned that oil has to come into the cabin to get it working....
> 
> Will be in touch this coming week for 2 of the vent gauge adapters as well, just awaiting payday :lol:
Click to expand...

Hadn't thought about that! The cooler setup came straight off VT's car in that form, so I just assumed it would be fine... a few jubilees can't hurt though. Cheers!

Regarding the oil gauge, exactly that, I much prefer the idea or a single line running in rather then oil! Worth the extra money.

Cool drop me a message when you're ready and I'll sort you out. 8)


----------



## FJ1000

Very well done Nick

Looking forward to seeing your car out on a track one day...soon I hope!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NickG

FJ1000 said:


> Very well done Nick
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your car out on a track one day...soon I hope!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks mate... you never know, one day maybe :lol:

Joking aside, I think it will be ready very soon, just waiting on the new control arms to be welded and the trailing arm front bush machining to come back and I should be there!


----------



## Jay-225

NickG said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good news with the pass. I am not considering racing, spent too many years racing in karts getting RAC competition licences, medicals etc and then always having to buy new tyres and bit's and pieces to be competitive.
> 
> 
> 
> It certainly can be! I don't know how much racing the TT will be involved in, I still think the future holds a single make series of some description for exactly that reason... regulations keep costs spiralling and the difference is the driver not the car! I also hope to race with a few other people in a team, fingers crossed I have a C1 endurance event lined up!
> 
> 
> 
> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little bit more done today...
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure on where I'll be going this year, but I'll defonitely keep the thread up dated with plans!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Excellent progress mate BUT please use some jubilee clips on the ends of the oil cooler hoses , i know they are meant to be a tight fit but jubilee clips will make sure they stay in place and never come off, Bill agrees with this and pretty sure he said he has seen them fly off on cold start when pressure is high when not using jubilee clips [smiley=bigcry.gif] better to be safe then sorry especially when it comes to oil
> 
> Also why have you gone for an electrical oil pressure gauge rather than a mechanical ? im weighing up which one to use and would rather mechanical but am a little concerned that oil has to come into the cabin to get it working....
> 
> Will be in touch this coming week for 2 of the vent gauge adapters as well, just awaiting payday :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hadn't thought about that! The cooler setup came straight off VT's car in that form, so I just assumed it would be fine... a few jubilees can't hurt though. Cheers!
> 
> *Regarding the oil gauge, exactly that, I much prefer the idea or a single line running in rather then oil! Worth the extra money.
> *
> Cool drop me a message when you're ready and I'll sort you out. 8)
Click to expand...

Yeah same a bit concerned with hot oil under high pressure coming into the cabin ... having visions of a burst line with oil all over the interior [smiley=bigcry.gif] :lol: I do prefer a full sweep gauge and didn't notice till yesterday that Stack actually do a full sweep electrical gauge which is exactly what i am after but not cheap at £168 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stack-Profess ... Ciid%253A1 but can imagine the price will long be forgotten if i ever had a split pipe on a cheaper mechanical gauge :lol:

Any pics of where you have located the electrical pressure sensor ?


----------



## NickG

I haven't got any pics yet as I need to find a new location! I have a bracket which I used to mount onto the battery casing... I'll see if I have any pics!


----------



## desertstorm

Hi Nick, Just ordered a PC625 Odyssey battery and cage for the car. Do you know approximately how much cable you used to connect to the battery and what size. 25mm2 seems to be about the right size.
Also noticed you have Motamec seats, what do you think of the quality. Looking at there steering wheels.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-Race ... 1992173224?


----------



## NickG

Hi bud, I think I used about 4m to get it from the starter motor, into the cabin, up to a cut off switch mounted in the dash, then back down and around to the passenger seat.

I'm really impressed with it, although it was always going to be good as it's simply a re-covered Mirco RS2 Seat. I believe the re-brand a lot of items like that. I like their stuff and have a few other Motamec bits that I'm planning to install to tie in the seats inside.


----------



## chisharpe

NickG said:


> *Engine Out... Again! :twisted: *
> 
> So im 90% sure my Brake Master Cylinder is knackered, countless attempts to bleed have made no difference, i probably flipped a seal when it was ran dry. Changing this is a pig of a job with the big ol' engine the way, so it's time to take her out again.
> 
> I've also got a good list of smaller jobs that i've needed to do and have been collecting parts for for some time;
> 
> 
> Master Cylinder
> Change Leaky Sump
> Battery Relocation
> Change heating matrix to lightweight version
> Delete Front ARB
> Clean up Subframe & powder coat
> Change tie rods
> Trim Wiring loom from redundant fittings
> Change thermostat
> Delete EVAP system
> Install adjustable top mounts
> Install TTRS Brake cooling Flaps
> Power Steering Cooler
> 
> Theres also a potential of an oil cooler & Oil catch-can install, dependent on funds :wink:
> 
> The work starts 8:00am Wednesday, i hope to be finished by 18:00 Wednesday night..... :roll:
> Yeah right!


So it took how long to get it back together  :lol:


----------



## NickG

Life hey! The list of unavoidable delays (Which ultimately led to low motivation!); A health issue meaning i wasn't allowed to drive, a new business start-up, a house move and then a Garage build at the new house to enable works! :roll:


----------



## chisharpe

did u ever get this roll and roaded?


----------



## NickG

chisharpe said:


> did u ever get this roll and roaded?


Nope! MAF figures suggest 309-315bhp... so generally i'm confident in calling it 300bhp 8)


----------



## chisharpe

NickG said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> 
> did u ever get this roll and roaded?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope! MAF figures suggest 309-315bhp... so generally i'm confident in calling it 300bhp 8)
Click to expand...

So your running a hybrid downpipe bugger injectors and I assume a 3" intake but std manifold?


----------



## NickG

chisharpe said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> 
> did u ever get this roll and roaded?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope! MAF figures suggest 309-315bhp... so generally i'm confident in calling it 300bhp 8)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So your running a hybrid downpipe bugger injectors and I assume a 3" intake but std manifold?
Click to expand...

Yeah BBT Entry level hybrid, 3" downpipe & decat, 630cc Bosch injectors, 3" SFS intake pipe, HG Motorsport FMIC.

Standard Intake and exhaust manifolds.


----------



## chisharpe

What size pipe work is the hg intercooler?

That's good power for sure


----------



## NickG

2.5" i think mate.


----------



## NickG

Jay-225 said:


> Any pics of where you have located the electrical pressure sensor ?


Just finished relocating the sensor etc.










Hope that helps mate 8)


----------



## desertstorm

Dependent on what gauge you buy you may get one with the much smaller solid state pressure sensors. 
The gauge I bought measures boost, oil pressure and oil temp. Here is a picture of the install on my car.
Although most senders do come with a sender like Nicks.










The oil pressure switch is normally mounted on the right side where I have put the temp sensor. You can just see the bit of blue on the temp sensor body with the black and white wires running to it. There is a brass plug on top of the housing which is for attaching a gauge to measure the oil pressure in a garage. I have taken this out and screwed an adaptor in and put the oil pressure switch on the top and the oil pressure sensor in the side.
What have you done with the vacuum on your fuel pressure regulator Nick, looks a bit complicated.


----------



## chisharpe

what gasket did you use for your hybrid or did you go gasketless?


----------



## Jay-225

desertstorm said:


> Dependent on what gauge you buy you may get one with the much smaller solid state pressure sensors.
> The gauge I bought measures boost, oil pressure and oil temp. Here is a picture of the install on my car.
> Although most senders do come with a sender like Nicks.
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> The oil pressure switch is normally mounted on the right side where I have put the temp sensor. You can just see the bit of blue on the temp sensor body with the black and white wires running to it. There is a brass plug on top of the housing which is for attaching a gauge to measure the oil pressure in a garage. I have taken this out and screwed an adaptor in and put the oil pressure switch on the top and the oil pressure sensor in the side.
> What have you done with the vacuum on your fuel pressure regulator Nick, looks a bit complicated.





NickG said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any pics of where you have located the electrical pressure sensor ?
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished relocating the sensor etc.
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> Hope that helps mate 8)
Click to expand...

Cheers fellas 8)

I think i may get away with coming straight off the oil filter housing as the sensor i got with the Stack gauge is pretty small and doesn't look as big as the normal sensors .. it is also supplied with an M10 x 1 Adapter which should provide a little extra room ... well that's in my mind anyway whether it works out that way is another thing :lol:

Nick the vent adapters arrived today , very very happy with them mate and cant wait for some better weather to get them fitted :lol:


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Dependent on what gauge you buy you may get one with the much smaller solid state pressure sensors.
> The gauge I bought measures boost, oil pressure and oil temp. Here is a picture of the install on my car.
> Although most senders do come with a sender like Nicks.
> 
> 
> 
> The oil pressure switch is normally mounted on the right side where I have put the temp sensor. You can just see the bit of blue on the temp sensor body with the black and white wires running to it. There is a brass plug on top of the housing which is for attaching a gauge to measure the oil pressure in a garage. I have taken this out and screwed an adaptor in and put the oil pressure switch on the top and the oil pressure sensor in the side.
> What have you done with the vacuum on your fuel pressure regulator Nick, looks a bit complicated.


That's the standard T-piece supplier with the Stack boost gauge, it's got a nice crush olive fitting into the T-piece for the line to the gauge.


----------



## NickG

chisharpe said:


> what gasket did you use for your hybrid or did you go gasketless?


Standard gasket for me 8)


----------



## NickG

Jay-225 said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dependent on what gauge you buy you may get one with the much smaller solid state pressure sensors.
> The gauge I bought measures boost, oil pressure and oil temp. Here is a picture of the install on my car.
> Although most senders do come with a sender like Nicks.
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> The oil pressure switch is normally mounted on the right side where I have put the temp sensor. You can just see the bit of blue on the temp sensor body with the black and white wires running to it. There is a brass plug on top of the housing which is for attaching a gauge to measure the oil pressure in a garage. I have taken this out and screwed an adaptor in and put the oil pressure switch on the top and the oil pressure sensor in the side.
> What have you done with the vacuum on your fuel pressure regulator Nick, looks a bit complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any pics of where you have located the electrical pressure sensor ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just finished relocating the sensor etc.
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> Hope that helps mate 8)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cheers fellas 8)
> 
> I think i may get away with coming straight off the oil filter housing as the sensor i got with the Stack gauge is pretty small and doesn't look as big as the normal sensors .. it is also supplied with an M10 x 1 Adapter which should provide a little extra room ... well that's in my mind anyway whether it works out that way is another thing :lol:
> 
> Nick the vent adapters arrived today , very very happy with them mate and cant wait for some better weather to get them fitted :lol:
> 
> View attachment 1
Click to expand...

No problem regarding the adapters 8)

They seem to have changed the Stack design then for the pressure sender. Just a note the main reason for fitting this remotely is to limit vibration from the block that can cause issues.


----------



## NickG

Well the front end is back together at last! Starting to resemble a car again!!


----------



## Jay-225

The Sensor i have is the normal sensor that goes with the Professional range of Stack Gauges ( All Electrical ) , the one you have is for the normal electrical gauge with the 90deg sweep... As i wanted a 270deg sweep pressure gauge the options were either Stack mechanical or Stack Professional ( read as expensive @ £168 :lol: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stack-Profess ... 2749.l2649) but thought the price difference was worth it compared to a mechanical gauge @£55 and the hassle of burst lines etc ... Yeah i did read the sensors don't like heat and vibration so may also look in to doing what you have done as these sensors are expensive as well @ £96 a throw so want it to last as long as possible https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspo ... nal-gauges ... where did you get the relocation kit from ?


----------



## NickG

Unfortunately my friend mate me thy bracket... most people use something like this...

http://www.etbinstruments.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=99&product_id=197


----------



## NickG

Well my pal at KND_Engineering has kindly finished making me a full set of rose jointed rear control arms and I have to say they look stunning! So pleased with them!


----------



## desertstorm

Very nice. Good to have friends who can do things like that.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Very nice. Good to have friends who can do things like that.


Certainly is!


----------



## NickG

More bright and shiney parts have arrived...










Hopefully get the rear subframe and diff back in at the weekend.


----------



## NickG

Bushes pressed in, ready to rock in the morning!


----------



## desertstorm

Very nice, it's just a pity nobody can see all the hard work that's gone into doing that.
Be interesting to see how much difference the much harder / solid bushes make in the rear. I found this thread a few weeks ago viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1176425
and when I had the car up on the ramps I was trying to move the subframe around with a big pry bar. 
I couldn't detect any amount of movement it looked pretty solid to me. The original rubber will have hardened so won't be as flexible now.But looks like the fitted solid rear bushes in the rear on the QS and V6.
Maybe put it on my list of things to do, hopefully wiring up the battery tomorrow and may get around to removing that relay in a box by the MAF.


----------



## NickG

Yeah for me it's a maintenance thing to stop (or at least limit) bits of rust and paint falling in the eyes when under the car. It's much nicer to work on a clean car! Could do them black, but orange is the same cost, so why the hell not 

This is part of my upgrade along with the poly engine mounts and solid front subframe bushes... probably minimal difference as you say, but it's all part of the bigger picture in a compliant suspension setup. Hopefully the transmission will see above benefit too,with movement greatly restricted!

Get some pics of what you do with the rely box mate


----------



## ProjectMick

Saw this earlier on Facebook - looks quality! All those little things you do will add up and make a difference though.

What's the score with the tie bars - are they better than say the Cookbot variety or just cheaper for you cos it's your mate making them?

Also, why not go bright Orange!


----------



## NickG

Cheers man 8) The reason we made these is for the rose jointed ends which Paul doesn't currently offer, however after seeing how popular mine have been with the track community, he his currently putting the work into making them! I've had a few chats with him and don't think it will be long before cookbot is offering very similar items to these for sale.


----------



## Jools TT

NickG said:


> Bushes pressed in, ready to rock in the morning!
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> View attachment 3


Very very nice and purposeful at the same time , control arms look the bollocks too especially with rose jointed bushing


----------



## NickG

Well it was a good day...

Freshly powder coated strut brace is in:










Old subframe dropped, diff removed and Powertrack Insert installed:










Diff mounted into the shiny new subframe:










And finally, subframe reinstalled... which is damn hard by yourself!!!










Not bad for an afternoons work!


----------



## desertstorm

Very nice, so much easier to change that powertrack insert with the haldex off the car. It's a right faff trying to remove the controller off the car.
I almost went for that colour orange on a set of 17 inch TT comps I have . I chickened out in the end and went for dark gunmetal.


----------



## NickG

Haha yeah it was a piece of piss to do like that!! :lol:

My bloody diff oil didn't turn up in time (ordered the same as you, cheers for posting the link!). But I have undone and loosely reinserted the fill plug, so I'm hoping it isn't too hard to now do retrospectively (I assume the hard part was cracking off the fill plug initially??).


----------



## NickG

Done a tiny mod tonight, but one that will make a huge difference!










ESP has been hard coded to OFF with the EDL remaining active.

This renders the ESP button useless and ensures the system stays fully off all the time, whereas as standard just pushing the button only turns it half off!

Easy enough to do, a 2 min job and it's done.

ABS and Haldex remain fully functioning.


----------



## desertstorm

On my list of things to do. As you say only a 2 minute job so currently sitting low down in the order of things left to do.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> On my list of things to do. As you say only a 2 minute job so currently sitting low down in the order of things left to do.


Yep so easy! I can't test mine right now, the rear ABS sensors aren't plugged in, but it accepted the code so should be all good to go! 8)


----------



## FJ1000

That powertrak insert and the ESP delete will make it much more driveable on track.

Great work so far!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NickG

Had a brilliant package waiting for me at home last night...










Sooo exciting! Better pull the finger out and try and use the thing!



FJ1000 said:


> That powertrak insert and the ESP delete will make it much more driveable on track.
> 
> Great work so far!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hope so! Really can't wait to get her out of hibernation and onto the track soon!


----------



## desertstorm

Very good. Do you have some of these ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Novice-Drive ... 2474202734


----------



## NickG

Had one on the car for 3 years! :lol:


----------



## dfriel2

NickG said:


> Done a tiny mod tonight, but one that will make a huge difference!
> 
> 
> 
> ESP has been hard coded to OFF with the EDL remaining active.
> 
> This renders the ESP button useless and ensures the system stays fully off all the time, whereas as standard just pushing the button only turns it half off!
> 
> Easy enough to do, a 2 min job and it's done.
> 
> ABS and Haldex remain fully functioning.


I'm at the very earliest stages of a TT hillclimb project (looking at a car tomorrow), and just read about the ESP never actually turning off 100%. What software is needed for the ESP delete, and is there an idiots guide?? Thanks.


----------



## desertstorm

You need Vag-com to recode the module. Did it on my car the other day. Just delete 2048 from whatever the soft coding is at the moment.


----------



## NickG

After some busy weeks, great progress was made yesterday!

The rear is back together, with new adjustable control arms, spherical trailing arm bush, HEL braided rear lines and a complete refresh to the subframe...





































She's almost ready to come out of hibernation...


----------



## NickG

*Snetterton trackday - 31st March 2018*

We made it!! Yesterday marked the return to track duty after almost 2 years away!!

After last minute panics, with no brake pedal, then a 20% brake pedal on Wednesday, a local Indy, Rustworks of Peterborough kindly agreed to open up on Bank Holiday Friday just to try and help sort my brakes... Lad!! After 3 cycles of vagcom ABS bleeding we had a much better pedal, albeit not where I'd want it, but totally driveable.

That meant getting her loaded up and ready for Track on Saturday...










The weather was atrocious, but in all honesty that was a godsend, naturally slower speeds allowed me to build up confidence as the day went on especially with the brakes which were still too soft for my liking, but effective none the less. On top of this my only tyres were the Nankang NS2R semi-slicks... again not ideal!










I didn't have time for any sort of meaningful suspension setup in the end, (that was supposed to be Fridays job) so in lieu of this we literally set the front ball joints as far out as possible, the top mounts 45degree backwards for camber/caster mix and set the rear tie bar lengths to what I had previously and hoped for the best.

I have to say, even without a proper alignment the car felt really really well balanced in the wet. The handling mods from last time out are:

Remove front ARB
Adjustable top mounts 
Both rear tie bars with spherical rod ends
Trailing arm from spherical bushes
Solid subframe bushes front and back (powerflex black diff mounts)
Haldex Insert
ESP hard coded to off

Previously the front end had felt tight with the rear always a bit sloppy, wow how that had changed!! With all the bushes and bearings replaced there are no more creaks under hard cornering. There's no delay in response to inputs, the car just moved exactly as I asked with every turn of the wheel.










To touch upon a few mods that have been discussed recently, I have to say the theory matches reality for a number of items. The lack of a front ARB has had no detrimental effect and in my opinion has considerably assisted with giving the car a neutral balance, particularly in the low speed tight corners.

With ESP fully coded out and the Powertrack Insert in place, I had absolutely no issues with a snappy system trying to kill me. It was genuinely so much fun to drive in the conditions because I could feel and adjust everything with steering input and power... and when you got it right you'd get an epic 4 wheels sliding in unison feeling, not to be confused with losing control, just a really balanced slide exiting the corners. You knew you were alive too, a little bit to much throttle too soon and the back would start to kick out... much more fun then just ploughing straight on forwards waiting for the fronts to grip!!

All in all it was a brilliant day, I managed 50+ laps of what is a long circuit (3 Miles), I got plenty of seat time, made my dad turn green and came home with the car in one piece! What more can you ask for?!






Professional photos and some in car footage to follow soon!


----------



## NickG

Not a great deal of footage, didn't get the GoPro until lunch and then the bloody SD card was full after not one session! :roll:

I did capture this save, which wasn't the biggest of the day, gutted I didn't get that, because it was properly sideways!!


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## desertstorm

Glad you got the brakes sort of sorted. Expensive job if you have to use a gallon of brake fluid every time you need to bleed them. Looks like great fun with the Nankangs on. Keeping off the traditional line can be better in the wet sometimes. It's what I used to do in Karts.Looks like you were short shifting as well.


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## NickG

Yeah exactly that, I bought 5l of comma stuff in the end, just for using to get a pedal. Haven't changed to high temp fluid which showed up a couple of times later in the sessions on the long straights.

Yeah short shifting a bit too, the day wasn't about setting a lap record yesterday, for me it was to check the running of the car and to get some seat time to build the confidence back up after a while out... both went according to plan, the cars running very well!

Yeah I did use the wet line a couple of times and found more grip like you say! Not knowing the track very well meant I had to learn the corners and instinctively the dry lines come much easier to start with. There was also a LOT of standing water off the dry line, so on the semi-slick Nankang I had the choice of slipping on the dry rubbered line or potentially aquaplaning on the wet line puddles... not ideal :lol: Wet tyres will be acquired in the future!


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## NickG

Another short clip of a run down the home straight. Short shifting and very early braking while the confidence is being built back up!


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## NickG




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## NickG

New Signature (Not sure how else to get it on the forum so this will have to do!!)


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## chisharpe

Looks good 8)


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## NickG

chisharpe said:


> Looks good 8)


Cheers dude, did you get my PM about the seat brackets?


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## chisharpe

NickG said:


> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers dude, did you get my PM about the seat brackets?
Click to expand...

Yes I end d up making some at work. But thank you again


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## NickG

chisharpe said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chisharpe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers dude, did you get my PM about the seat brackets?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I end d up making some at work. But thank you again
Click to expand...

No problem, definitely much cheaper to make yourself if you have the ability!


----------



## NickG




----------



## NickG




----------



## NickG

Well the refurbishment of the Brembos has been completed and should be on the car this weekend if all goes to plan


----------



## NickG

Busy day today, got the Brembos installed, with massive help and great service from George at RTR Parts! They managed to get Ferodo DS1.11 pads to me in under 24hrs and at a better price then I could find anywhere else.










Which left it up to me to get them installed. Creation Motorsport adapters on (seem like top quality!)










Brembos on...










HEL Lines in and Ferodo DS1.11 pads in...










All bled and then wheels on...



















Ready to head of to Jabbasport to sort the braking system out once and for all. Annoyingly I think the crank seal on the gearbox side has gone as I appear to have a large leak in that area [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## NickG

Dropped her off at Jabbasport this morning, oddly i don't recall having a garage work on my car (Alignment aside) until now, some 4 years into the project. I'm really hoping its not a Crank Seal that's leaking as that will be a bitch to change, i could do it myself but i just don't know if i can be bothered... not something that will be cheap to let Jabba fix though [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## NickG

Well my diagnosis was unfortunately correct... Crank seal is shot! Not an easy fix, but it did at least give me the motivation to remove this from the spare car...










5-paddle CG Motorsports clutch & SMF ready to go into mine while the gearbox is off. This should save another 6kg or so and also give a bit of hardiness in lieu of my current new OEM clutch and flywheel setup.


----------



## NickG

Well ain't this a fine thing to have on it's way to me...



















Weighed in at just under 7kg, so a decent saving and a massive cooling aid!


----------



## desertstorm

Looks nice, but how much weight is that going to save. I thought one of the good things about the TT was the fact that the OE bonnet was aluminium and not steel so lighter than it would usually be..


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Looks nice, but how much weight is that going to save. I thought one of the good things about the TT was the fact that the OE bonnet was aluminium and not steel so lighter than it would usually be..


6kg lighter then the standard unit and incorporates the vent which is currently needed for ventilation assistance. It's a very high quality part and allows use of all the standard fixing points, if you want them.

6kg from the front of the car... that's a win in my book! :wink:


----------



## chisharpe

ENGINE OUT AGAIN? :evil:

and im ok..


----------



## NickG

Nah just the gearbox, not a big deal, just too busy and want the car ready quicker then what I can dedicate to do myself currently :roll:


----------



## chisharpe

NickG said:


> Nah just the gearbox, not a big deal, just too busy and want the car ready quicker then what I can dedicate to do myself currently :roll:


ive seen that gearbox diy. fuck that im pulling the engine lol :lol:


----------



## NickG

chisharpe said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nah just the gearbox, not a big deal, just too busy and want the car ready quicker then what I can dedicate to do myself currently :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> ive seen that gearbox diy. fuck that im pulling the engine lol :lol:
Click to expand...

Haha even better, I'm letting someone else do it :lol:


----------



## NickG

Well I finally got my hands on a special delivery of the best kind...



















Absolutely awesome! 6kg saved and a heck of a lot of ventilation to keep them temps down!

I'm 3/4 of the way through installing the aerocatches, another little bit of weight saving can then be made, along with the ease of opening the bonnet.


----------



## HOGG

Very nice indeed


----------



## NickG

Aerocatches are installed, now it's just off to MKS Customs for a wrap and she's ready to go...


----------



## desertstorm

Looks good, can you check the oil level without lifting the bonnet? I removed the rear tow point on mine the other day. Do you need a tow point at the rear for certain tracks or is it not needed.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Looks good, can you check the oil level without lifting the bonnet?


Cheers mate! Haha you certainly can, what a bonus!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

Well something a little different for the weekend, I was so fortunate to be invited to join a team in the Citroen C1 endurance challenge for Saturdays 3-hr race at Rockingham, an opportunity to get the first race out of the way and hopefully first signature on the licence... I couldn't say no!

So i rocked up for Friday practice, having never driven the car, after the first two chaps went out, it was my turn. 2:00-2:02 laps and then boxed due to a red flag, I was off the pace. After lunch it was session number 2, an improvement got me to 1:58 laps which I was happy with but scratching my head as to were I could make more time. Our fastest driver was putting in 1:56 laps consistently.

All in all 15 laps for the day and room for improvement, but a good feel of the car gained.

View attachment 12


So came Saturday, Qualifying up first, then the Race.

As it was mandatory that all drivers complete at least one hot lap and as i was one of the two 'slower' drivers, we decided that we'd get our hot lap each out of the way and then handover to Dave to bang a few laps in and try and work up the grid. Having jumped in the car i worked on trying to get straight onto the pace, just as will be required in the race itself. This gave me a fairly respectable 2:04 outlap followed by a 1:57.7 hot lap, keeping it pinned for the inlap to handover the car as warm as possible. I was dead happy with that, it was our fastest effort at the time. Next up Dave went out and worked his way to a 1:55.5! That was enough to put us P.22 of 32... a respectable showing considering we done half the number of laps as virtually everyone else.

View attachment 11


Next up was the Race! As all 3 of us were competing in our first race, it was decided that Dave would start, it was his fault that we were so far up the grid, so it was only fair that he dealt with the carnage caused midpack heading to that first hairpin!

View attachment 10


View attachment 9


View attachment 8


And what a start he made, after 3 laps we were up to P16!! A position that was maintained until our first stop, which also happened to be the first stop of everyone, with 3 mandatory driver changes we figured the advantage of stopping first would be beneficial so our second driver at least had an opportunity of getting some clean air.

View attachment 1


After an hour for Paul, driver no.2, it was my turn. Just as we put the Pit message out on the board, BAM, safety car!! Couldn't have timed it better if we wanted to! We had planned to refuel in the final stop, luckily my many years of following Motorsport kicked in, 'reliably' informing the team that now was the time to refuel, for an almost a free fuelling opportunity! Fuelling done, I jumped in the car and set off.

It's my luck that me first racing laps come under a bloody safety car, my lack of experience leaving me in limbo as to how fast I should be going to catch up the end of the safety car tail! The two cars behind me decided I should be going quicker, however I stood my ground and we caught the tail half way round the safety car in lap... well timed? :lol:

So for the restart, yeah, messed that up. [smiley=bigcry.gif] For some unknown reason, I decided 3rd was the right gear entering the straight, even though every previous lap was 2nd gear... inexperience and flustering got the better of me! Goodbye car behind me :roll:

Cold tyres then made for an interesting first lap, the usually almost flat out Gracelands being not at all flat out on cold tyres, running wide, wider, over the apex, over the green concrete, 2 wheels on the grass... finally getting back on track.

A couple of laps in and I'm now following the #445 car of emaxmotorsport, lap after lap and despite getting much better drive out of the final corner I just cannot quite get past. 4 or so laps later, inexperience steps in yet again. I was closer this time BUT not close enough... a late lunge up the inside at the hairpin was therefore ill advised, i shot past the #445 car but just was not slowing enough, I turned in to give some chance of coming out of this intact, so I'm now heading towards the #423 car sideways and screeching, eyes like dinner plates... the Legend in #423 heard the commotion and spotted me, turned right (on this left hander) and somehow we avoided contact!! Lesson learned, I was back behind #445 and giving myself a stern talking to!!

Panic over, it was time to refocus and get quick. Eventually I'd caught back up and focused on closing up to #445 on the final corners and smashed it out of the chicane, tucked in and this time I was close enough, passing on the inside of turn one!

View attachment 7


View attachment 6


View attachment 5


View attachment 4


An hour was a long time in the seat, I made a few more nice moves and in my final series of laps I was running a consistent P15! On reviewing the timings it turns out I was running consistent 1:55-1:56's over my final 15 laps and ended the day with our fastest lap... a personal result.

View attachment 3


Handing back over in a false P.9 (due to out of sequence pit stops) we eventually crossed the line in P.19!!! An outstanding result for 3 novices with no previous race experience!! Lessons learnt and signatures gained, we had survived 3hrs... our main target! It felt like the biggest win to simply finish!

What a brilliant day 8)

View attachment 2


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## Delta4

That was like reading a magazine article, as in well written, sounds like the team had a blinding day out whilst gaining more experience.


----------



## NickG

Delta4 said:


> That was like reading a magazine article, as in well written, sounds like the team had a blinding day out whilst gaining more experience.


Haha thanks mate, i've never been much of a writer to be honest! :lol: It was brilliant and i'm still feeling the effects, completely knackered, but so worth it!


----------



## Pukmeister

That looks amazing fun.

I wish I had found the balls to get involved in motorsport when I was younger and fitter, (although I did a 24 hour motorcycle Enduro event for two consecutive years on behalf of the Royal Navy against the Army for charity, which was a killer).

It sounds like a right laugh, small cars going flat out.

I might get to take my TT on a track one day...... I live in hope.


----------



## MrQaud

That was one of the best posts I've read on here in a long time - Well done on the result!


----------



## desertstorm

Looks like you had a good time. There is a lot of difference in lap time between the top cars and you, I suspect that some may have been more prepared than others. At least you didn't do a Grosjean.


----------



## NickG

Pukmeister said:


> That looks amazing fun.
> 
> I wish I had found the balls to get involved in motorsport when I was younger and fitter, (although I did a 24 hour motorcycle Enduro event for two consecutive years on behalf of the Royal Navy against the Army for charity, which was a killer).
> 
> It sounds like a right laugh, small cars going flat out.
> 
> I might get to take my TT on a track one day...... I live in hope.


It was brilliant, like Go Karting on steroids!

Well if you do, keep an eye out on the Trackday register and you might find one of us there!


----------



## NickG

MrQaud said:


> That was one of the best posts I've read on here in a long time - Well done on the result!


Cheers mate, yeah it really was a great result all things considered!


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Looks like you had a good time. There is a lot of difference in lap time between the top cars and you, I suspect that some may have been more prepared than others. At least you didn't do a Grosjean.


It was mega fun! Can't wait to go again, looking like Pembrey 9th-10th June! Very glad I didn't Grosjean it, as much as I bloody tried in the first laps :lol:

What I didn't mention, is that we were the only team running full tread tyres. It turns out the shaved 4mm tyres to only provide more grip, but also last longer! A few of the 24hour teams we chatted with reckoned 1-2 seconds a lap quicker around Rockingham... that would have made a bit of difference! Also we were one of only a handful of teams to have to change the fronts, due to the wear. Probably lost the best part of a lap due to that.

View attachment 1


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## desertstorm

Wow that tyre looks very second hand. Was everybody running the same tyre type then?. But you started with brand new tyres. Full tread blocks will cause the tyre to overheat a lot easier especially with the hot weather that we had at the weekend. You live and you learn, I am sure you will find a few other tricks to improve performance.


----------



## NickG

Yeah the series control tyre is a Nankang AS-1... a bag of crap cheap road tyre that somehow performs amazingly well on track in this situation. You have to buy them from the club, with each tyre registered and can buy either brand new or shaved. Everyone else had the shaved tyres and when we asked around the general consensus was... OOOPS!! :lol:

Absolutely the movement in the treadblock destroys the tyre, you can see it melting into ridges, it's quite amazing! The guys running the shaved tyres run them at 50 (FIFTY!!) Psi!!!

Another small difference is that we didn't have time to get the rear hub spacers in to run greater rear camber... another control item (albeit just washers I believe) that may have helped with the alignment.

Those two items, completed by 3 novice drivers, show where time can hopefully be made!


----------



## 1781cc

Mate, thats good read and well done on the race result, lol @ the grosjean comment, classic

Look forward to reading about the next race


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Mate, thats good read and well done on the race result, lol @ the grosjean comment, classic
> 
> Look forward to reading about the next race


Cheers dude! Yeah at 5hrs long the next one should yield plenty more thrills and spills!!


----------



## NickG

The new tow wagon has arrived! :twisted:


----------



## NickG

*RACE 2*

Well another race weekend under the belt, this time a 5hr endurance race around Pembrey! A fun little circuit, but in the middle of nowhere, if you're close then worth a visit, but I wouldn't say travel far to get there!! (took me 7hrs from Peterborough to get there, 4.5hrs to get back on a clear Sunday morning!).

Having rocked up late Friday evening I entirely missed practice, luckily the three other chaps managed to make the afternoon session and got a few laps in to learn the circuit as best they could, on the leftover tyres from Rockingham.

After some food, we completed a late night track walk so I could at least get an understanding on the direction we would be travelling and any tips from the guys on braking zones, turn in etc. ready for qualifying in the morning. Nerves were high overnight, knowing I would have to learn the track on the fly and trust the info that had been given to me on where we could go flat out and where I should be braking.

The morning came, this time around we knew what to expect, sign on and scrutineering were completed quickly and painlessly and it was soon Qualifying time!

Dave went out first and put in a couple of good laps including our best qualifying time of 1:28.3. We were all agreed that due to our limited budget and hence lack of fresh tyres for the race, we would have only 2 flying laps each. I was next up, armed with Dave's knowledge from the track walk the night before, I 'knew' (read: hoped I knew) where I could go flat out and where I would need to brake... finished my second flying lap with a 1:29.6, I couldn't complain about that! Next up was Paul and Gary, who both got held up on a busy track, 39 cars in 1.5miles of tarmac is tight!!

So after our 15 laps, to everyone else 30+ laps we ended up qualifying P.31 of 39... not too bad considering the circumstances.










Race start soon can around and on formation in the pits we were told that we'd been moved up to P.29 due to some penalties... result, or so we thought. Major disorganisation and confusion with the marshalling lead to a complete cock-up on the green flag lap, with our side of the grid being stopped at the pit lane and never sorted out before starting the race, meant that when the lights went out we were effectively P.35!! What a kick in the nuts!!



















Paul done a great job in the first stint, with a couple of hard battles, by the time we were ready to pit we were up to around 30th place. During his stint we had a chance to review other people's tyres as they pitted around us... not good news, the passenger front required changing every 1.5-2hrs maximum. 5hrs between 4 means our stints were 1.25hrs each, so we were coming in with life left on the tyre, but not enough to stretch it into 2 stints. This meant we'd need 3 new tyres for the race... you guessed it, we had 2!

One thing we did practice and discuss at length was pit stops and how we could speed these up. Luckily we had 2 extra helpers in the pits who proved absolutely vital and played a massive part in the success of every stop. Be under no illusions, this isn't F1, but 30 seconds saved on each of 3 stops gives you a lap in hand, which makes a huge difference! Refuelling is a slow process and under great scrutiny as you mustn't work on the car further back then the firewall, this includes jacking up the car on the cills. We therefore made the decision to jack the car up both sides straight away and make a call on tyres whilst refuelling.

So with Paul's stint over, Gary was up, his first ever race after missing Rockingham... but it didn't show! He cracked on well and handed the car back around p.29 and ready for another tyre change and the first refuelling stop. Good prep meant we smashed the pitstop, someone videod the process and we were in and out, with two changed wheels, 20litres of fuel and a driver change in under 3 minutes... that might sound slow but believe me it's flat out!!


























So, Dave's stint, halfway through the race, p.29 and ready for a challenge... I'd stupidly mentioned to Dave I reckoned we could salvage low 20's, so it was game on! Dave was on fire!! 29 soon became 25, 23, 22, 21... in one lap we had to change the pitboard 3 times as the timings updated and took us to 21! Dave was then shown the two laps and in signal... then, just as had happened at Rockingham... SAFETY CAR!! Top man, he boxed a lap early so we could take full advantage of the situation and I could get into the car! We later found out that the safety car was potentially caused by a very poor manoeuvre attempt on our car, by someone deciding not to brake and effectively smashing straight on into Dave's rear quarter while he turned in... our first damage, gutted, but only superficial luckily!










As I was last and as we had previously discovered, there wasn't a spare new shaved tyre for me... so we picked the best of the used Wets that we had and stuck that on. Not ideal, but I was up for a challenge!! I went out and caught the safety car, being shown p.24 on the pit board.

And so the SC board was brought in and it was time to go racing! If you read the Rockingham report, you'd know I messed this up last time, not this time though. I was ready, in the right gear, and lined up a move from the penultimate corner, there is no safety car line in MSA regs, you could overtake once you pass the first green flag, which was shown BEFORE the final corner... I maintained momentum and snuck through on the inside yards after said post to make a place! I'd get 2 more attempts at this also, with another 2 safety cars in my stint. Being midpack however meant the carnage was greater and no opportunities to repeat the move arrived.

I pushed hard to the end, on my wet tyre, managing to overtake on track both 2nd and 3rd places to take a lap back... maybe they were cruising to the end, however I made the passes on merit and lined them up a couple of corners in advance which felt great!

It's difficult to know who you are fighting when in the car, but on reviewing the results I'd also managed to pass on track a couple of vitally placed rivals, bringing the car home and taking my first ever chequered flag, in 20th place... some 15 places higher then we effectively started!! A brilliant brilliant result and I have to admit to welling up a little just after taking the flag... we'll put that down to exhaustion from the race!










On review I think if we were able to compete more in qualifying and start in the correct position we might have been able to get into the midteens looking at our lap charts. Considering both the caliber and number of opposition was higher (the 24hr race featured the a lot of the best teams last time, who raced in the 5hr this time) it may be a place lower then Rockingham, but it was certainly a better result.










All in all another great weekend racing, another 2 signatures on my licence and another brilliant experience that I'll never forget! I've been asked to race September 1st at Rockingham for another 3hr race, so if you fancy it, pop along and cheers us on!


----------



## NickG

P.s. Admin, if you read this, I know it's not a Mk1 but please don't move it, I promise when the TT is racing I will be doing in depth race reports and videos etc. and bring this thread back on topic!!


----------



## desertstorm

Good job Nick, you won't know what's happening in the TT with all that extra power.


----------



## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Good job Nick, you won't know what's happening in the TT with all that extra power.


 :lol: Thanks mate, i know, it's going to be a different ball game entirely then! Right now because the cars are essentially identical, when i'm chasing a car down in front, i try to use their braking point and add a few feet onto it where i dare... this won't work in mismatched cars!! :lol:


----------



## NickG

:!: Sneak Preview!!! :!:


----------



## NickG

No words needed to be honest...




























Nearly ready to get back on track!


----------



## infidel.uk

thats looking seriously savage !

love it 8) 8)


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## Tuscan12

Quite simply "AWESOME" That car is a real credit to you Sir. :lol:


----------



## NickG

Cheers guys, dead happy with the outcome! 8)


----------



## NickG

Time for a bit of Transformation Tuesday, to show just how much she has changed over the years...


----------



## Delta4

Did you intend to track the TT from the off ? the car looks the part now


----------



## NickG

Delta4 said:


> Did you intend to track the TT from the off ? the car looks the part now


Thanks mate!

Yeah always had planned to track the car, but never really thought I'd be able to actually race, when I bought it... now I can, and can't wait for the first one!!


----------



## Delta4

Good luck with the racing, enjoy it whilst you can the tree hugging milk float lovers are out to kill motorsport as we know it


----------



## Kang

I've just read the entire thread. The car looks awesome. I'm well jealous. There's something about the colour coded subframe and suspension parts that really turns me on. I can't work out how to subscribe to the thread though.


----------



## NickG

Kang said:


> I've just read the entire thread. The car looks awesome. I'm well jealous. There's something about the colour coded subframe and suspension parts that really turns me on. I can't work out how to subscribe to the thread though.


Thanks man, yeah i have to say, the car looks good even when stationary :lol:

The subscribe button has moved right to the very bottom of the page now, always takes me a while to find it :lol:


----------



## NickG

Just a few snaps of the car since she's been back from the garage, clutch slave cylinder failed from brand new so a replacement was done under warranty.

Finally had a chance to give her a proper clean up...










Ive been passed a bottle of Bear Car Care Hybrid quick detailer to try and I'm massively impressed by it. The beauty of it is it works on paint AND glass, so you don't have to be careful, you just get on and do the whole car, wipe on then buff off with a dry microfibre! For the small amount of effort this takes, I find it amazing!



















And now she's tucked up back in her home, ready for a small jobs...


----------



## NickG

It's been a little while since I've updated this thread, mainly, it has to be said, as I feel like this community is rapidly slowing down and being replaced by social media, which is a shame as this project was forum based since the start and in the early days I have many forum members to thank for all their help in getting the car to where it is now. :?  

Anyway, I'll try and continue to do my bit to keep it alive and at least keep my thread up to date as much as possible!!


----------



## NickG

The first and biggest change since the last update, was the install of the new JP Cages Multipoint bolt-in roll cage, with double door bars and fully MSA compliant for future racing use! Obviously it's orange, because why wouldn't it be?!



















Cracking work by Josh at JP Cages, the finish and welding is top class. It left me with a dash to cut in around the uprights, however this was nowhere near as difficult as I had assumed it would be and left me with a pretty neat install!!

Before dropping it off for the cage, it gave me the opportunity to remove a good number of brackets from the rear bench and boot, saving a heap load of weight (needed, to counteract the 48kg cage weight!!).

My next task was to get the new wheels on, that had been sitting in boxes for 2 years!! Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 in 17x9j wrapped in 255/40/17 Nankang NS2R rubber. I got them on and went out for a little drive on the local private backroad to see if there were any issues with rubbing. I can safely say there was none, bearing in mind I have ditched the front ARB even the most aggressive side to side weaving (a la motorsport tyre warming style) would not lead to rubbing!!

On this little run out, I also discovered the real power of this new braking setup  able to lockup 255 wide semi-slicks at 60mph, this was going to be fun to test on the next trackday!

So with the car basically ready for it's next day, I turned to sponsor duties. I've recently picked up a new sponsor in Bear Car Care, who are a local company, offering a range of their own premium car cleaning products. I approached them after being astounded at just how good their Hybrid quick detailer with sealant was, using it on my daily.

So the car was taken over to meet Ash and the team, for a little clean and some decent photos for their marketing use...



















If you want to have a look at what Bear Car Care can offer, they can be found at http://www.bearcarcare.co.uk and if you decide to buy anything you can use my discount code for 10% off your first order 'racecar10' 

With marketing duties complete, she was dragged home and put under cover for a few days to keep her fresh, after all, she needed to look tip-top for the upcoming trackday and magazine shoot at Cadwell Park... [smiley=gossip.gif] :wink:


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## NickG

*Cadwell Park - 3.10.18*

So as briefly teased, I was lucky enough to be invited by Jay from Trackaddict to attend a trackday at Cadwell Park, with a view to writing an artical in Track Car Performance magazine, along with Tom in his mean green sprinting machine! The article I'm told will be aptly named Double TTrouble!

This meant I had to make sure the car was ready in time and for once it was! We met Tom and Jay at the track about 8am and headed into the drivers briefing, which mainly consisted of being told to ensure we checked our bonnet pins... cough***Tom***cough 

Then it was time for some sighting laps, useful being my first ever laps at Cadwell!! Bearing in mind Cadwell is the track I have visited most over the years, maybe 20 tines, I felt like I knew the track. It turns out, whilst a knew where the track went, I wasn't prepared for just how much of it was unsighted once you are out there!!










Sightings laps over, it was time to swap the 225s out and get the 255s on and give it a first blast! Since the last run out at Snetterton, the main changes were;


Brembo Calipers with DS1.11 pads
JP Cages Rollcage
17x9 Team dynamics with 255 Nankang NS2R tyres
Composite Bonnet with massive vent for cooling
BYC Rear wing

At this stage I still haven't sorted a front splitter, so keen to keep the car as balanced as possible, I set the wing to its shallowest AOA (Angle of Attack).

The day started drizzly, but by about 10am the track was starting to dry out. I completed a few sessions alone, to learn the track and ease myself into the new setup. The new brakes were phenomenal, braking later and later into the corner after the back straight from the 3 marker, to by the end of the day, almost braking at the 1 marker and knowing there was still plenty in it too!! 










The same was true of the BYC wing, even at the lowest AOA smashing up the first corner went from a brake and a gear change, to a brake, to just a lift off over the course of the day, as I felt the wing pushing the car into the track more and more. Had I not have been so conscious of the lack of a splitter leading to a potentially understeery car at speed, I'm fairly sure that corner would have been flat out on another day!










This was also my first opportunity to put to test the new spherical bushings front and rear in the dry (having had rain all day at Snetterton) and wow, was the car feeling great, particularly on the tight and twisty corners, where clios and Caterhams were being caught! I've had a few comments on how pointy the car looked going through Hall Bends and it's true, the setup is so balanced, both front and rear just grip and go exactly where you want them!










The car ran great all day. Well. Almost all day, on the cool down lap of the last session, the Slave clutch Cylinder decided to empty itself yet again!! Turns out, the LUK cylinder design has been changed in the last couple of years and now uses some plastic components which just aren't up to the task... NOTE TO EVERYONE: BUY THE SACHS CYLINDER!!! It's not much more expensive but will atleast work reliably!










Yet again, I was blessed with famous company on track too that day, with Guy Martin testing his V6 Ecoboost Transit on the day, in preparation for an attempt at the Nurburgring lap record in a modified van. He's such a genuinely nice fella, had a brief but fun chat with him in the paddock and he's so normal it's funny.










All in all another brilliant day out in the TT and for the first year ever 2018 has seen TWO trackdays!!! :lol: Let's see if we can manage a third for the year as I need to get some more seat time in for hopefully a 2019 race Calendar!


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## NickG

A little video I put together for the day, with Tom following me. Here you can see how well the car is running through the twisties!!


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## NickG

Channel 4 - Sunday 4th November 2018 - 9pm

https://www.channel4.com/programmes/guy-martin-the-worlds-fastest-van/episode-guide/



> In a brand new challenge, Guy Martin has completely remodelled his beloved transit van to take on one of motorsports' greatest circuits. Three years ago, Guy crashed his van on the way to work and wrote it off. He was gutted but, rather than sending it to the breaker's yard, rebuilt his van as a blisteringly fast racing machine, one which reached speeds of 165mph across the Nevada desert. Now Guy wants to break the van lap record at the Nürburgring in Germany - the most demanding and dangerous racing track in the world.
> 
> It requires a total rebuild of the van, a job Guy undertakes in his shed, taking over his life for five months. He then has to learn the 100-plus corners of the Nürburgring's 12.9 miles and hope that everything goes according to plan during the single hour he's been allowed to use the legendary circuit. It's a massive undertaking which repeatedly pushes Guy and his van to the limit. And, as the challenge approaches its climax, all threatens to end in disaster.


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## desertstorm

Question is Nick which was the fastest in that picture ?. The Van the Mclaren or the TT ?.
Saw this advertised on the telly the other day, definitely be watching it.


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Question is Nick which was the fastest in that picture ?. The Van the Mclaren or the TT ?.
> Saw this advertised on the telly the other day, definitely be watching it.


Well i overtook the Mclaren and the Van, so i guess the TT!? :lol: (We don't need to go into the ins and outs of how or why i got passed them!)


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## NickG

I thought i better release my footage before Sunday, in case the TT does show up... Yeah, ok, he indicated and let me past, i own up!! :lol:






Can't wait for Sunday now


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## desertstorm

I have been on wider kart tracks than Cadwell park, it really is narrow. It looked like he was trying to let you pass a few times but you don't really know. Did you get a black flag or was that for Guys driving? . I pretty much always indicate when I move over then anyone following will know I have seen them and they can just get on. Maybe just me being old .


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## NickG

It really is narrow in places, but then there are 3/4 good areas for letting people past! I did for a moment when approaching the mountain forget i wasnt racing had to stop myself sticking up the inside... in hindsight the way he placed the van makes me think he was expecting me to do just that, but rules is rules on trackdays!

The black flag was for the Mclaren following me, that span the lap before but didn't pit :roll:

On the rare occassion i have to let people past, i'll keep tight to the inside apex when leaving the corner, indicate and only use half throttle, i make it very obvious what i'm doing and stay inside out of the way so the passing car can keep their line... just wish others on track done the same! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## NickG

Made the final cut... barely :lol:


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## Delta4

Had me shouting at the telly after seeing the first whisp of smoke before it eventually started burning :lol:


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## NickG

Delta4 said:


> Had me shouting at the telly after seeing the first whisp of smoke before it eventually started burning :lol:


Tell me about it! It just goes to show no matter who you are, building a bespoke setup isn't easy!!


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## desertstorm

I can't believe that they didn't spot those cracks in the disc until the night before they were going out on the track And the grooves in the disc look like they had been put in by an angle grinder? .
I never quite thought of Cadwell as a mini Nurburgring more an over grown kart track. The elevation changes make for a more interesting experience that's why I like Donnington. I bet Knockhill is much the same but it's a bit to far to travel.


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> I can't believe that they didn't spot those cracks in the disc until the night before they were going out on the track And the grooves in the disc look like they had been put in by an angle grinder? .


I know!! We we're screaming at the TV, you're going for a lap record attempt with a 1hr only time slot, but don't take spares with you!?


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> I never quite thought of Cadwell as a mini Nurburgring more an over grown kart track. The elevation changes make for a more interesting experience that's why I like Donnington. I bet Knockhill is much the same but it's a bit to far to travel.


I did really enjoy the elevation changes of Cadwell, they were great fun!

Before Cadwell i had driven Bedford, Snetterton, Rockingham & Pembrey, all of which are as flat as they come!!

The feeling you get going down the back straight at cadwell when you hit the dip and then stat climbing again, at 100mph is brilliant! :twisted:


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## NickG

Been sent some of the photos from the Track car Magazine photoshoot now... can't wait to get a copy in my hands!


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## NickG

So then, i'm very active on social media these days as are most... Is this forum thing dead now, or is it worth keeping this thread up-to-date for the coming season? :?


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## Delta4

Sadly forums are dying as more people opt for 2 faced book as a one stop shop, can't stand it myself but that is the reality.


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## HOGG

I don't have face crack

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## NickG

Delta4 said:


> Sadly forums are dying as more people opt for 2 faced book as a one stop shop, can't stand it myself but that is the reality.


It does seem that way doesnt it. 

I do like keeping this thread up to date, it's easy to return to for referencing. :?


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## Madmax199

Keep it alive!


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## Andywill

I have a couple of TT groups I follow on Facebook, they are interesting, but don't have the depth of knowledge found on the forum. Social media is rubbish really for following anything long term & is useless for any sort of search function (I would class myself as a Facebook novice though, so it may be better than i think) Forum wins for me


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## NickG

Well I guess I'll try and give it another year of updates, as it should have plenty of content all being well :lol:

So I finally got my hands on a copy of the magazine, so happy to have that as a momento of the car... whatever happens now I'll have a good record of her looking her best, on paper, not the internet!!










So onto this season! I've got a shakedown booked at Cadwell on 22nd February, this should be used to give me a baseline of how the new splitter (wait for it) is performing, some time to play with the Wings AoA (Angle of Attack) and some running on new, even stickier rubber, Nankang AR1's...










General consensus in the paddock of the 750mc Roadsports Group, is that this is the tyre to be on! So... with that series being what I'm aiming to run in, I figure i should start getting used to it!

This year, I should be running in class B which is up to 240bhp/ton so I'll leave power as it is and maintain the benefit of AWD for this season (the safety net if you will!). I'm not sure how competitive I'll be, but the aim is to just get experience racing in the TT with a view to try and be more competitive the following season! Just surviving 6 races would make me exstatic!

The calendar for the series is as follows;










I'll try and keep this regularly updated with plans, but at the minute I'm hoping to compete in every round, bar any issues that might prevent this!


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## desertstorm

Keep the updates coming. Social media such as facebook is great for what happened today yesterday and last week but very difficult to find out about something that happened 7 months ago.
I find a build thread very handy when people ask you questions I just link to a page on my build thread quite often.
The Nankang AR1 does seem to get some very good reviews,what is your fallback if it's a little wet ?.
How do they police the 240bhp/ton ?. Random weigh ins and a portable dyno ?.
If your still in it by the time you get to Donnington I will probably come over and see what's going on.


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Keep the updates coming. Social media such as facebook is great for what happened today yesterday and last week but very difficult to find out about something that happened 7 months ago.
> I find a build thread very handy when people ask you questions I just link to a page on my build thread quite often.
> The Nankang AR1 does seem to get some very good reviews,what is your fallback if it's a little wet ?.
> How do they police the 240bhp/ton ?. Random weigh ins and a portable dyno ?.
> If your still in it by the time you get to Donnington I will probably come over and see what's going on.


Yeah i find that, even for my own reference it is good to be able to come back to this thread sometimes!

It has seemed to, this year they are also altering the tyre, so i believe they will have an element of kevlar construction to bring the weight down further, which is a big plus! If it's full wet, it'll be Rainsport3's, if it's damp/drying for now i'll likely be on the AR1's, i haven't got the funds for 3 sets of wheels right now! A lot of others do this too however, so i shouldn't be alone and atleast i'll have AWD traction i guess! :? [smiley=bigcry.gif]

So you should get a Dyno performed at one of their 7/8 registered dynos across the country and then they can randomly spot check this and the weight after sessions.

Yeah that would be great to see you there, touch wood i'll make it to round 5! :lol:


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## Quix

Hi Nick, I've just found your thread and now I must go back and read all 70+ pages  
I'm new to TTs, but am involved in sports car racing at Kirkistown in NI, and the class specifies road legal tyres . Most use Avon ACB10 cross plys which are quite good (not in the rain though!) but I have favoured Kumho V70 which I found to be excellent. I'd be really interested to hear what you think of the NanKangs when you've had some experience of them.


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## NickG

Quix said:


> Hi Nick, I've just found your thread and now I must go back and read all 70+ pages
> I'm new to TTs, but am involved in sports car racing at Kirkistown in NI, and the class specifies road legal tyres . Most use Avon ACB10 cross plys which are quite good (not in the rain though!) but I have favoured Kumho V70 which I found to be excellent. I'd be really interested to hear what you think of the NanKangs when you've had some experience of them.


Hi Quix, it's a long read i must admit! :lol:

I'll definitely be able to update you in the AR1's, hopefully ive got a day at Cadwell in a few weeks time, it'll not doubt be atleast damp at some point knowing how my days go on track!


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## desertstorm

Hi Nick, Just wondering if you have bought the Rainsports yet? . They are Ok but a little outdated these days. Not sure what size tyres you are running 17/18 but I suspect 17's.
The Michelin pilot sport 4 is a great tyre in the wet and in slippy conditions. 
http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Miche ... port-4.htm
You can get previously mounted but pretty much like new tyres cheap from Tyreleader.
https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/ ... 91v-861937


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> Hi Nick, Just wondering if you have bought the Rainsports yet? . They are Ok but a little outdated these days. Not sure what size tyres you are running 17/18 but I suspect 17's.
> The Michelin pilot sport 4 is a great tyre in the wet and in slippy conditions.
> http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Miche ... port-4.htm
> You can get previously mounted but pretty much like new tyres cheap from Tyreleader.
> https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/ ... 91v-861937


I've not ordered yet and have been doing a bit of research on the track groups, it seems Rainsports are great for out and out wet conditions, whereas the PS4 might be slightly better suited to a wet track that's got a chance of the rain subsiding over the course of a race! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Leaves me in a bit of a predicament!

My 'wets' will be 225/40/18 on the standard rims, so i'm looking at £61 for a Rainsport as opposed to £90 for a PS4, i think that may sway me to the rainsports as first attempt and see how i get on!

https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b2829...C_Wet_Grip:_A_NoiseClass:_2_Noise:_72dB/RS_GB

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/michelin/pilot-sport-4/225-40-r18-92y-903955


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## NickG

I've also finally pulled my finger out and drawn the splitter up! 










Should be getting cut on the CNC Router this week ready for a test fit 8)


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## poghead

Looking good, how much will it cost to make more than one? :roll:

Pog


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## FJ1000

poghead said:


> Looking good, how much will it cost to make more than one? :roll:
> 
> Pog


^ what he said

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sd TT

NickG said:


> I've also finally pulled my finger out and drawn the splitter up!
> 
> 
> 
> Should be getting cut on the CNC Router this week ready for a test fit 8)


Hi NickG, cars looking good, and glad that you're getting a front splitter to counter the down force created by that rear wing. At the moment it looks like it might be creating under steer or push mid corner. Just thought I'd give you something to think about when racing this year.

1. Rear wings only create down force above 70-80mph and only of use when cornering at those speeds, any speed lower than that they are creating drag and slowing you down. You don't need the wing in a straight line, what you need are small devices that stop up lift. So my thoughts are, have a think about which tracks you're going to and if it's a Caldwell type track, remove it. if it's a silverstone maybe keep. It's all about the corners, and the speed you can exit at.

2. At the front end, are some of those air intakes for cooling the brakes? Not sure how the brakes have been for you in the past I find the car needs some way of cooling those brakes.

3. I don't know your experience so please forgive me if this is sucking egg time but, Before each race I would walk/bike the track, and when you do go to the exit of each corner and look back. Work out where you want to exit that will give you the apex and that should then give you you're turn in. Don't drive at the corner and then turn in when you feel, because you're brain will make you turn in too early, which ends up with an early exit and can get on the power till you're 2/3 through the corner. You should be looking to be on the power at the apex. If you can get on the power before that, you're too slow, after the apex wrong turn in point. Oh when setting the car up only ever do one thing at a time, then look at the results. Do multiple things you won't know which one did the trick. Start square and neutral. Let the tire tell you what's going on. Temp across the face, pressure increased and ware point on the shoulder.

Any way just a few thoughts for you. Not sure if you're on the case or if that helps best of luck.


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## NickG

Sd TT said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've also finally pulled my finger out and drawn the splitter up!
> 
> 
> 
> Should be getting cut on the CNC Router this week ready for a test fit 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Hi NickG, cars looking good, and glad that you're getting a front splitter to counter the down force created by that rear wing. At the moment it looks like it might be creating under steer or push mid corner. Just thought I'd give you something to think about when racing this year.
> 
> 1. Rear wings only create down force above 70-80mph and only of use when cornering at those speeds, any speed lower than that they are creating drag and slowing you down. You don't need the wing in a straight line, what you need are small devices that stop up lift. So my thoughts are, have a think about which tracks you're going to and if it's a Caldwell type track, remove it. if it's a silverstone maybe keep. It's all about the corners, and the speed you can exit at.
> 
> 2. At the front end, are some of those air intakes for cooling the brakes? Not sure how the brakes have been for you in the past I find the car needs some way of cooling those brakes.
> 
> 3. I don't know your experience so please forgive me if this is sucking egg time but, Before each race I would walk/bike the track, and when you do go to the exit of each corner and look back. Work out where you want to exit that will give you the apex and that should then give you you're turn in. Don't drive at the corner and then turn in when you feel, because you're brain will make you turn in too early, which ends up with an early exit and can get on the power till you're 2/3 through the corner. You should be looking to be on the power at the apex. If you can get on the power before that, you're too slow, after the apex wrong turn in point. Oh when setting the car up only ever do one thing at a time, then look at the results. Do multiple things you won't know which one did the trick. Start square and neutral. Let the tire tell you what's going on. Temp across the face, pressure increased and ware point on the shoulder.
> 
> Any way just a few thoughts for you. Not sure if you're on the case or if that helps best of luck.
Click to expand...

Ummm a little confused, that's not exactly correct at all and is a common aero misconception :?

1. Cadwell and similar will be running the wing with the most aggressive AOA, this will create higher levels of downforce, sooner, so where there are only two relatively short straights the penalty in drag is comparatively small compared to the benefits of the downforce around chirs curve, coppice and charlies. Running at Silverstone, i'll have a much less aggressive AOA as the higher corner speeds will still allow good levels of downforce without penalising me on the straights with too much drag.

2. No there's no ducting to the brakes at this stage, but it's in the pipeline. The setup i have has been very reliable so far and the DS1.11 pads allow a very large temperature window where they will work. At some point i'll design some ducting and back plates to direct this too the caliper and disc correctly, but at this stage no urgent. (I beleive i assisted you with some brake info early last year?)

3. Yep, i try to walk the track or cycle it when i can, Pembrey we had an awesome time walking the track at dusk the night before the race. I don't struggle with early turn in, that's an amatuer issue... i know i don't suffer it in the car, because i know i DO suffer it on the motorbikes (Where i am an amatuer!!) and hence i know how that feels! :lol:

Updates to come shortly from testing at Cadwell...


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## NickG

Well the splitter was cut the week before Cadwell, leaving me with just the airdam to finish...










and finally completed trackside at Cadwell in the morning! :lol: I went for a Williams-esque style testing, with parts being finished "Just in time" 8) I used 0.9mm aluminium for the airdam, it needed to be 130mm high to close of the gap nicely and maintain a 100mm lip all the way around.


































Really happy with how it turned out, i've set it to 70mm from the floor, which is probably too low for a car that's driven to the track, but for a trailer queen, this seems like a good starting point!


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## NickG

So the test day at Cadwell Park was a success in general, with a lesson learnt in why testing is so damn important!
After finishing the splitter off in the morning in the paddock, with the help of my epic friends I was able to head out for a first run and to scrub in the AR1's by 10am.

First impressions, boy did the splitter and tyres make a difference! Around Coppice, Charlies and Chris curve, there was so much more grip i couldn't believe it, at one point headed up coppice i was physically laughing at just how much more grip there was! :lol:

Out for round two before lunch and I was starting to learn how to push on with the aero and getting faster and faster, until a knocking noise started appearing in upshifts. The red flag came out a lap later for a spinny BMW and it was a mandatory stop... lucky as in return to the pits I was greeted by a lower engine mount bolt on the splitter, complete with a puddle of clutch fluid yet again!!

That was the day over for the TT, but I left with a positive attitude. Time to problem solve this slave cylinder issue... and fit the spare gearbox with nice mount points! :lol:

All in, feeling very happy with how the car felt and took 5 seconds off my laptime from October with the knowledge that the car (and me) have way more in us!!

Rob Baxter of RBPS Photography was covering the day, so here are some of his EPIC shots...














































View attachment 40229034743_2630bde6f5_o.jpg


Any way, the clutch issue is now starting to be the bane of my life, thats 3 slave cyclinders gone in 3 outings (1 only made it on and off the trailer!!). So last week it was stripped back down and we took some measurements comparing the OEM clutch & DMF setup that never had an issue and the CG motorsports setup i now run, that has casued the issues. We found maybe a millimetre of difference, so being as AKS sell a shim kit for the slave of 1mm thick, i figured this is worth a shot. I'm also adding a higher mechanical stop to the clutch pedal, to see if maybe the travel is too far, it shouldn't harm in theory! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Testing again at Blyton on 13th March... wish me luck! :lol:


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## desertstorm

I can't believe 1mm will make the difference with the clutch, That seems very strange. would have been interesting to try and determine how much of the gain came from the tyres and how much from the extra aero. The AR1 seems to get some very good write ups . Rob Baxter takes great shots, I will be doing more Opentrack track days as he covered the last one I did at Donnington.


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## NickG

desertstorm said:


> I can't believe 1mm will make the difference with the clutch, That seems very strange. would have been interesting to try and determine how much of the gain came from the tyres and how much from the extra aero. The AR1 seems to get some very good write ups . Rob Baxter takes great shots, I will be doing more Opentrack track days as he covered the last one I did at Donnington.


It's certainly odd, but otherwise we are a bit stumped with what it can be. I do know Paul had a similar issue which he solved with a spacer, so heres to hoping! The throw we measured was only around 10mm iirc, so i guess that extra 10% COULD make a difference :? The stop on the clutch pedal i think should help too, it disengages long before the stop at the minute, so it's also worth a try.

Yeah it would be great to know, but with limited testing time to me, i won't get an opportunity to compare unfortunately. I think theres probably another 2-3 seconds in the car to, so you're likely talking 8 seconds in tyres, aero and driver all together.

He certainly does, i also found out he took my photos from Blyton 3 years ago, that being the first trackday he had covered!! He's come on a lot since then, as has the car! :lol:


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## Sd TT

NickG,

Sounds like you're on the case and that's a proper spliter. Good job.

I get that you can change to angles on the wing, but I still stand by aero needs speed and it's a balancing acting. I'm with desertstorm was it the tyres or the aero that gave you the grip. Or a combo of both? Coppice should be flat without aero, but Charlie's and Chris curve could benefit from it I give you that. But what you gain in corner speed, will you loose it down park straight??? And Chris curve doesn't lead to any over take opportunities and easy to defend against, so doesn't matter. So what's the answer.??? The stop watch. Let that tell you the answer. I'm only playing devils advocate. This is what my race engineer used to do to me all the time and occasionally said he made changes so my head would think the cars better, but in fact the car was the same, and strangely found a couple of 10ths from somewhere???

Yes you did help me with the pads last year, thanks for that. But as yet haven't been able to get out again, to try them. Life getting in the way.

Have you had an instructor go out with you, to help identify what's in your blind spot of technique?


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