# Window won't one-touch down, regulator, sw or motor problem?



## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Drivers side window will not one-touch down from the door switch (one-touch up works fine and auto up and down work fine from the fob).

One-touch down works for about a minute if I reset the windows via VCDS but then just stops again.

What's at fault here, regulator (unlikely as the auto functions work fine from fob), switch or motor?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You might try running a VCDS scan "live" while operating the window and see if the blocks tell you anything. It's a bit of an effort, but you can mouse-over each of the data windows to get the pop-up bubbles that show you the expected or defined parameters. If no pop-up bubble appears, then there's no expected values and what you see if what you get. When you run a live scan, the values will change and you can see if they're within the expected range. You might also check the Ross-Tech webpage to verify any fault codes or if anyone else has reported a similar issue.

If the regulator is defective, it would probably have a grinding noise associated with it or would fail to go all the way up or down since it's all mechanical; e.g. there's no sensors on the regulators. I don't think there's much of a history of failing window motors for the Audi TTs.

Trick is knowing which blocks are involved in the window operation. You should be able to determine the part codes from the SSPs or Workshop manuals; for example on the Roadster, the Sensor for Canopy Flap; Left (G596) and there's an associated block for it.

I did this with the convertible roof a while ago, you can see how I did it here. Thankfully the convertible top only has 8-blocks and there's a good SSP on all the part codes! I would imagine the window can't have very many either since it's probably just down to the switches and motors.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1829258


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You might try running a VCDS scan "live" while operating the window and see if the blocks tell you anything. It's a bit of an effort, but you can mouse-over each of the data windows to get the pop-up bubbles that show you the expected or defined parameters. Then when you run a live scan, the values will change and you can see if they're within the expected range.
> 
> Trick is knowing which blocks are involved in the window operation. You should be able to determine the part codes from the SSPs or Workshop manuals; for example on the Roadster, the Sensor for Canopy Flap; Left (G596)
> 
> ...


I don't actually have access to VCDS myself, I had someone just reset everything yesterday.


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## pdk42 (Apr 23, 2018)

I'm no expert here, but I'd go looking at how the switch works. For example, is there a separate switch action (additional connector) for the one touch operation, or is it some sort of voltage-switched operation (single connector)? I'd personally remove the switch and compare driver's and passenger's door operation using a test meter. Have you tried buying s replacement switch?


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

pdk42 said:


> I'm no expert here, but I'd go looking at how the switch works. For example, is there a separate switch action (additional connector) for the one touch operation, or is it some sort of voltage-switched operation (single connector)? I'd personally remove the switch and compare driver's and passenger's door operation using a test meter. Have you tried buying s replacement switch?


No I've not tried another switch yet. Strange thing is the drivers side stopper working after I removed and reffited my passenger side door trim?! So I'm a bit confused as to why the drivers side is playing up.

I have a spare passenger side loom and switch so maybe I'll try that in case somehow the passenger side is messing up the drivers side.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

I would just buy VCDS myself but i dont have a laptop and after all the issues I've had with this car I'm not sure my next car will be a VAG car, although I am tempted by a mk7 Golf R lol


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> You might try running a VCDS scan "live" while operating the window and see if the blocks tell you anything. It's a bit of an effort, but you can mouse-over each of the data windows to get the pop-up bubbles that show you the expected or defined parameters. If no pop-up bubble appears, then there's no expected values and what you see if what you get. When you run a live scan, the values will change and you can see if they're within the expected range. You might also check the Ross-Tech webpage to verify any fault codes or if anyone else has reported a similar issue.
> 
> If the regulator is defective, it would probably have a grinding noise associated with it or would fail to go all the way up or down since it's all mechanical; e.g. there's no sensors on the regulators. I don't think there's much of a history of failing window motors for the Audi TTs.
> 
> ...


Are you able to get me the part number for the drivers side switches? I don't really see how it would be the switches at fault though as surely if they were the fault would be much more random, as it is it worked fine after a VCDS reset then just stopped working again almost immediately and hasn't worked again since.


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

If it's any consolation, my driver's window is in the same state and has been since I bought it 2 years ago. Strangely, it will
(i) occasionally go up all the way as it should.
(ii) often refuse to go up without going all the way down first
(iii) mainly only operate as a manual up-down mechanism.

I thought (ii) was probably some resistance in which the "stop your head being chopped off by a rising window" mechanism was kicking in, but applications of silicon oil have made no difference.

I suspect a faulty earth somewhere.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Double post


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

GaryG said:


> If it's any consolation, my driver's window is in the same state and has been since I bought it 2 years ago. Strangely, it will
> (i) occasionally go up all the way as it should.
> (ii) often refuse to go up without going all the way down first
> (iii) mainly only operate as a manual up-down mechanism.
> ...


Mine goes up and down all the way as it should, it just won't one-touch down anymore for some reason. If I knew what part of the car was actually controlling these functions I'd replace it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Rip - The drivers switch is E512, the passengers is E107.

Looking at the Workshop manual, it might be something as simple as having knocked the connector loose when reinstalling the door panel. Can't hurt to remove the door panel again, verify the connections are good, and test both switches BEFORE putting the panel back on.

.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ Rip - The drivers switch is E512, the passengers is E107.
> 
> Looking at the Workshop manual, it might be something as simple as having knocked the connector loose when reinstalling the door panel. Can't hurt to remove the door panel again, verify the connections are good, and test both switches BEFORE putting the panel back on.
> 
> .


Thanks, I spent about and hour plugging and unplugging and wedging the connectors tight in the passenger door (as thats the only door trim I removed before the drivers side starting playing up) and I'm not entirely sure I proved a correlation with the plugs in the passenger door and the operation of the drivers window as everything just seemed so random and didn't make sense. I can't rule it out though which was why I bought a 2nd hand (assumed working) passenger side switch and loom which I haven't yet had time to test in the car.

Bottom line is, the drivers side window worked fine up until I removed and reffited the passenger side door trim.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Strange thing is the drivers side window worked instantly after clearing all codes with VCDS but then just stopped again.

My concern with that is that even if i try my spare loom and switch that they might not work unless I reset everything with VCDS again. I don't have access to VCDS at all, a very busy tuner mate of mine spared me a few minutes at the weekend but I can't just keep going back.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Obviously i will try that spare passenger switch and loom as soon as I get a minute as I may as well.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you plan on keeping your TT for a while, or staying with the VW/Audi product line, a VCDS is the smartest investment right after a screwdriver. Seriously. While it isn't cheap, it will pay for itself the first couple of times you use it over being tied to a service center to get this done.

You might run through the Ross-Tech forum and see if anyone's reported a similar situation. You'll have to sign up to use it, but that's easy enough.

http://forums.ross-tech.com/forum.php


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> If you plan on keeping your TT for a while, or staying with the VW/Audi product line, a VCDS is the smartest investment right after a screwdriver. Seriously. While it isn't cheap, it will pay for itself the first couple of times you use it over being tied to a service center to get this done.
> 
> You might run through the Ross-Tech forum and see if anyone's reported a similar situation. You'll have to sign up to use it, but that's easy enough.
> 
> http://forums.ross-tech.com/forum.php


Yeah you're right, I'll sign up to the forum and have a look.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I don't believe there's a window motor adaption requirement through the VCDS. But I'm planning on running some scans on my TT this evening, so I'll see what I can find under 9-Cent. Elect and look if there's an adaption specific to the window motor. According to the workshop manual, it seems to be just plug and play.
.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I don't believe there's a window motor adaption requirement through the VCDS. But I'm planning on running some scans on my TT this evening, so I'll see what I can find under 9-Cent. Elect and look if there's an adaption specific to the window motor. According to the workshop manual, it seems to be just plug and play.
> .


Well that's some good news, if I have to replace the motor it should be nice and easy.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Again though it would be real a coincidence that the drivers motor would pack up at exactly the time I remove and refit the passenger side door trim.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I have read that the wire loom that passes from the door into the frame can get damaged. You might want to see if you can check the condition of the wires inside the rubber grommet just to be sure they're okay.

https://www.realoem.me/Audi/RDW/ATT/200 ... 971/972037

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1719594

.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I have read that the wire loom that passes from the door into the frame can get damaged. You might want to see if you can check the condition of the wires inside the rubber grommet just to be sure they're okay.
> 
> https://www.realoem.me/Audi/RDW/ATT/200 ... 971/972037
> 
> ...


Interesting, I'll check it out, thanks.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Have you checked the connections to the door module for corrosion? It's not a problem that I remember seeing reported but it is a possibility, as is an intermittent fault in the module itself.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

tttony said:


> Have you checked the connections to the door module for corrosion? It's not a problem that I remember seeing reported but it is a possibility, as is an intermittent fault in the module itself.


As in, on the side of the motor where the window switch plugs plug in to? If so then yeah I had a look (passenger side) and there is no obvious sign that any water has been there.

I want to rule out everything on just the passenger side first as that's the only side I'd messed with before the drivers side started playing up. I don't want to complicate things by messing around with the drivers side just yet.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Rip - Ran a VCDS on mine this evening, no faults! Yay!

Seems there's no adaption in 9-Cent. Elect for the window regulator. So as stated in the workshop manual, it's set just using the window switch.








.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ Rip - Ran a VCDS on mine this evening, no faults! Yay!
> 
> Seems there's no adaption in 9-Cent. Elect for the window regulator. So as stated in the workshop manual, it's set just using the window switch.
> .


Well that's weird, thanks. Must have some kind of a mechanical issue then or dodgy wire.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

EDIT - the window motor blocks are under Address 42: Door Elect, Driver









.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Since you don't have a VCDS, if you want me to go back and double check anything let me know.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Since you don't have a VCDS, if you want me to go back and double check anything let me know.


Will do thanks. I guess for now I better check the wiring.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

I'll have a look at the wires in the hinge and try my spare plug and switch on Saturday.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Think I've sussed it. After checking and double checking everything in the passenger door including trying my spare switch I reluctantly pulled the drivers side door trim off to have a look. Wiring looked OK so I randomly unplugged the window switch assembly and plugged my spare passenger side switch into the drivers door as it has the exact same plug, and it worked fine, auto up and down worked perfectly!

So I've ordered a used drivers side switch assembly off of eBay for £40, hopefully that'll do it.

If that works then that's a hell of a coincidence that the drivers side switch would break the very same day that I removed and reffited the passenger door trim, I guess we'll see next week when my switch arrives.


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Well, looks like it was actually a massive coincidence after all, fitted a new (used) switch in the drivers door and all is well again. Very odd that the drivers side window switch packed up the exact same day (to the hour) that I removed and refitted the passenger side door trim to remove a piece of rattly broken plastic.


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## pdk42 (Apr 23, 2018)

Rip said:


> Well, looks like it was actually a massive coincidence after all, fitted a new (used) switch in the drivers door and all is well again. Very odd that the drivers side window switch packed up the exact same day (to the hour) that I removed and refitted the passenger side door trim to remove a piece of rattly broken plastic.


Spooky. Twilight zone stuff :evil:


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## RoadsterP (Apr 27, 2017)

I have a similar issue on my 2012 Convertible...

- Usually all windows work fine with the roof up/down switch.
- Occasionally at the end of the cycle of putting the roof down, as both windows are coming back up, they stutter. Go down a little bit briefly, then continue to go up.
- Driver's window will goes down with one-touch.
- Driver's window will not go up with one-touch, only holding the switch up.
- Passengers window works perfectly.
- Roof works perfectly.

I did have an insurance repair carried out 3 months ago, as some idiot managed to drive down the side of the car and rippled the door skin. Result was a replacement drivers door and some paintwork. I can't help but feel this is connected, but I'm completely flummoxed!

Any pointers?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

RoadsterP said:


> I have a similar issue on my 2012 Convertible...
> 
> - Usually all windows work fine with the roof up/down switch.
> - Occasionally at the end of the cycle of putting the roof down, as both windows are coming back up, they stutter. Go down a little bit briefly, then continue to go up.
> ...


Hi, Have you tried a window reset ?
Normal procedure is Door open, Ign on, engine running is better as battery at full volts.
Window all the way down, holding switch. Window all the way up, holding switch. Release switch, hold up again for 5 seconds. Repeat more than once.
Hoggy.


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## RoadsterP (Apr 27, 2017)

Yes, a few times. It fixes it temporarily but then it just comes back within a day or two.

Haven't managed to determine if the putting the roof up/down is the trigger or not...


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I had a flat battery a few weeks ago and charged it up and the battery is holding up just fine. Just ran a VCDS scan this morning to verify everything's okay, no faults noted, voltage looks okay too. After the scan, I attempted the window re-set but just realized it may not have worked since I had shut off the engine.

EDIT - I went back out to give it another try. Had the engine running, performed the window re-set procedure and the same problem persists;

• Both windows will go up and down manually. 
• The passengers will auto-up and auto-down
• The drivers will auto-up, but not auto-down. 
• When opening either the drivers or passengers door, both windows will auto-drop. When closing the doors, both window auto-raise and seal properly.
• When opening the convertible top, both windows auto-drop the initial 2-3" and then pause until the stop is securely stowed, then both windows will auto-down.
• When closing the convertible top, both windows auto-up once the top is securely closed.

Given the auto function works when the convertible top is operated and when the doors are opened and closed, I suspect the drivers window switch is failing. I will have to run a VCDS scan while operating the drivers window and see if I get a fault code on the switch.

Never a dull moment! :roll:


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

In my case it turned out that I needed a new window regulator in the drivers side door.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The initial VCDS scan was a bit misleading. I ran an Auto Scan, and nothing showed up - 
Battery start/end: 13.7-V/13.7-V

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MAX1.lbl 
Part No: 8J7 959 801 C 
Component: Tuer-SG H02 0060 
Coding: 0000053 
No fault code found

However, when I got into the [42-Door Elect. Driver] module and checked [Fault Codes - 02], I found this one -
01034 - Electric Window Thermal Protection Active; Driver
000 - - - Intermittent

Note the VAG number in to top left window, this is the part number for the Window Motor. Component Tuer-SG is German where Tuer translates to "Door" and is the same data listed in the fault code report. Part No. 8J7 959 801 C is the Window Motor.

I was able to clear it, but it didn't make any difference.

I went into [Meas. Blocks - 08] to see if I could figure out what was going on and to witness the messages while operating the window switch. [Group 1], these 4 blocks are the ones to watch when operating the window. The text values change during operation (sorry, I don't know how to do a video screen capture). Suffice to say, I believe the fault code is directly related to the "Inactive" message above [Thermal Protection].

From what I have been able to tell, this fault can occurs if the window or motor experiences any resistance when moving up and down, thus generating a higher than normal current load in the door control module. It could even be a bad temperature sensor/switch in the door control module. I'm not hearing any grinding or unusual noises from the window regulator, so I may need to give the window a good clean and make sure the outer scraper is clean and lubricated.

The other block to check are listed under [Group 8] - [Window Regulator Position (V147)]. All the way down (100%) partially up with the door open (7.5%) or completely up with the door closed 0.5%. So it looks like the window is going all the way up and all the way down which would indicate the regulator is operating properly.

It's just weird that the window auto function works when the roof is opened or closed, or when the doors are opened or closed. I was really expecting a fault with the switch (E40] itself. I think I'll run another scan tomorrow and record the possible values for [Group 1].

I did find this "How to Reset One-Touch Windows" on a VW YouTube site. The procedure is exactly as has been explained here in the forum - 





_How to reset your electric windows on your VW Volkswagen if the auto one touch function stops working. This can be caused by:
1.) A flat or disconnected engine battery
2.) The motor or control unit getting confused. 
3.) Tight or dry window guide rubbers can also make it lose it's memory of the top and bottom stop positions. 
4.) If it keeps happening then clean the edge of the glass and the rubbers with a silicone spray._


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

It's probably a thermal overload cut out so if the window regulator mechanism is stiff and causes resistance the motor will stop so it doesn't burn out.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Rip - I agree. But weird that the window will auto-up and auto-down during the convertible top operation, or when the doors are opened or closed, but not when the door switch is activated. :?


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## Rip (Dec 22, 2017)

Yes that does seem weird.


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