# Post dashpod repair/immobiliser PROBLEM SOLVED!



## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Hi Guys,

I have just refitted my newly repaired dashpod and aside from fixing the lower dash panel in those daft clips at the rear it's all gone well.

The dashpod is repaired and the car starts, but it immediately cuts out and the immobiliser warning light flashes in the cluster.

Just to add some further complication I have a Clifford 600 alarm system installed but that appears to be working fine. I have spoken to Clifford and they are pretty certain this is an Audi immobiliser issue as the Clifford alarm arms and disarms properly.

I have also had phone exchanges with Cluster Repairs who repaired the dashpod. They have suggested various battery disconnection and reconnection sequences that are supposed to reset the immobiliser, but so far I am either doing them wrong or they don't work... :wink:

I can confirm the dashpod they returned is mine and so matched to the car (I have the Clifford button keypad and indicator light on the dash fascia). Cluster Repairs asked if I disconnected the battery before removing the dashpod, which I did following advice to avoid voltage spiking causing any damage.

So does anyone have any advice as to what I could try next? I'm waiting for the technician from the repair company to call but that is unlikely to be before early afternoon and I really need to get this fixed before it snows or gets dark!

Thanks for any help guys,

Rich


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

did you try a simple fuse 11 pull and refit. :?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Wak said:


> did you try a simple fuse 11 pull and refit. :?


Will try that right now mate.  I'll let you know...

Cheers

rich


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Fuse 11, fourth row from the top and fourth in from right hand edge right? 5amp?

Doesn't appear to do anything mate... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

rustyintegrale said:


> Fuse 11, fourth row from the top and fourth in from right hand edge right? 5amp?
> 
> Doesn't appear to do anything mate... [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Its Dash power so you wouldnt see it do anything unless you had bypassed the clifford first.

Ignition on, disable clifford so the dash lights up...
Wait 30 seconds.
Pull fuse 11....... wait 5-10 seconds
Refit the fuse.... ensure dash lights up

Try starting.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Wak said:


> rustyintegrale said:
> 
> 
> > Fuse 11, fourth row from the top and fourth in from right hand edge right? 5amp?
> ...


Okay have done that. Still does the same, still have flashing immobiliser light in cluster. Could having the Liquid plugged in affect it at all? Everything else off but Liquid asking for my password as it's been disconnected.

I'll go and see what happens...


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Nope. Pulling the Liquid doesn't help...


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I think get a some input from the cluster repair people next  Perhaps recoding the keys will be required....


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Wak said:


> I think get a some input from the cluster repair people next  Perhaps recoding the keys will be required....


Yeah I think so too. Waiting for them to call this afternoon. Their techie guy is out until then... :?


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

A silly test but can you lock the car.

Unlock, disable clifford and try starting but do all that in < 20 seconds?


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Not that I really know anything guys, but surly that sounds like the rolling code from the key ? have you tried your other key Rich ?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I had this on my MK II and turned out that the key was shagged and hence dropped the code, maybe


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Wak said:


> A silly test but can you lock the car.
> 
> Unlock, disable clifford and try starting but do all that in < 20 seconds?


Manually or using the Audi keyfob, ie not the Clifford fob?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Audi Key as that is what de arms the imobiliser


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

robokn said:


> Audi Key as that is what de arms the imobiliser


Okay, the Audi key will lock and set the alarm and get the door LEDs flashing. My spare Audi key does the same. Both will unlock and disarm from the fob. My Clifford fob will also arm and disarm remotely and the input coding button accepts my code to light the dashboard.

The immobiliser light is on constantly until I try to start. The car fires then stops and the immobiliser light on the dash just flashes. I can get the car to start every time. Everything seems to work except the Audi immobiliser won't turn off. The Clifford immobiliser turns off as indicated by an extra dash light. This happens when the button code is entered and the dash lights up allowing the ignition sequence to run.

It's just gotta be an immobiliser/ECU communication issue... :?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

basky said:


> Not that I really know anything guys, but surly that sounds like the rolling code from the key ? have you tried your other key Rich ?


All available keys mate... :?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Well I had a call from Cluster Repairs. They promised to email instructions how to resolve this early this afternoon. So far i have had nothing and have emailed a letter of complaint. :?


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## Gazzer (Jun 12, 2010)

either way m8 all parties will take no responsability as you have after market kit fitted (alarm immobiliser)
my only thought is to power down the added alarm imobiliser and go back to basics to solve the prob.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

gazzer1964 said:


> either way m8 all parties will take no responsability as you have after market kit fitted (alarm immobiliser)
> my only thought is to power down the added alarm imobiliser and go back to basics to solve the prob.


The aftermarket alarm works. It's protecting the car right now!

All I want is some proper guidance from Cluster Repairs. They keep going on about how many VAG repairs they've done and in the same breath tell me stories of people who've called the AA and once they've gone all has been good.

It's been over a week without my car. It is supposed to be a 48 hour service. I'm happy to accept delays, but promises undelivered just wind me up. :?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

Think the issue here is you have a cliford attatched... and to really get to the bottom of it you'll struggle... could be a case of open connections, i'm sure the cliford will have a backup battery hidden in the car somewhere... maybe that has ran out and thrown the cliford out (if the cliford also has an imobiliser like the audi one)....

Issue you have rich is realistically you've whipped a dashpod out with a standard and aftermarket imobilser and then refitted... in theory it should all be fine, but the thing you've got to remember is car theives... these things aren't meant to be easy... from what i remember reading you'll need some software (other than vagcom) to recode the system... (can't remember which) This should allow you to get the base code from the dash onto the keys..


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Hi Rich, I've emailed you some options.
Can try to resync your keys for you , last resort Immo Defeat which we usually do for tuners doing engine transplants.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

tony_rigby_uk said:


> Think the issue here is you have a cliford attatched... and to really get to the bottom of it you'll struggle... could be a case of open connections, i'm sure the cliford will have a backup battery hidden in the car somewhere... maybe that has ran out and thrown the cliford out (if the cliford also has an imobiliser like the audi one)....
> 
> Issue you have rich is realistically you've whipped a dashpod out with a standard and aftermarket imobilser and then refitted... in theory it should all be fine, but the thing you've got to remember is car theives... these things aren't meant to be easy... from what i remember reading you'll need some software (other than vagcom) to recode the system... (can't remember which) This should allow you to get the base code from the dash onto the keys..


Thanks Tony. I spoke to Clifford yesterday. They suggested using the valet code to disable the Clifford system so that the problem can be isolated.

In the meantime I have heard from Cluster Repairs and essentially I have to remove the dashpod again and follow some pretty convoluted instructions to refit it.

So I am going to start from scratch and see what happens!

Cheers mate,

Rich


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Wak said:


> Hi Rich, I've emailed you some options.
> Can try to resync your keys for you , last resort Immo Defeat which we usually do for tuners doing engine transplants.


Hi Wak,

I've emailed you matey. Thanks for your help. I'll keep you updated.

Cheers

rich


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Whooppee! Car is fixed. :x  

Okay, I'd suggest that anyone wishing to do a DIY dashpod removal and refit following a repair make a note of this...

Before removal disconnect the battery. Follow the instructions here...
http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/boostgauge/boostgauge.htm to remove fuse cover and and lower dash panel. Wak says you don't need to drop the whole panel but just the front edge two or three inches to reveal some vinyl covering the two lower dashpod screws. In practice you'll probably find like me that the whole panel drops anyway... :lol:

To remove the dashpod undo the two screws concealed by the vinyl. The dashpod can then be pulled gently towards you from the lower edge. There are two metal clips along the top edge that hold it into the surround. Before pulling the whole thing out, lower and pull out the steering wheel. This gives more room. Once you can reach the rear of the dashpod there are three sets of cables each with Scart type plugs on the end. To undo these use a flatblade screwdriver to gently lever up the colour coded clamps. These will in turn push out the connector blocks. Once all three are dosconnected you can remove the dashpod.

Once you get the repaired dashpod back you'd think refitting is the reverse of removal right? Wrong!

First you must connect the battery and leave the bonnet open. The dashpod can then be placed in position to allow the reconnection of the three cable connectors. Don't then push back the dashpod, just rest it on the steering column.

Go and have a coffee. You need to leave it like this, close the doors and leave the bonnet open. After five minutes go back and disconnect the battery. Do not open the doors. Leave for 30 minutes with the doors closed but not locked and make sure your keys are well away from the car.

After half an hour, reconnect the battery and lock the doors manually with the key. Do not open the doors at all. Leave in this state for 10 minutes, then go back and unlock the doors with the key. Put the keys in the ignition and turn on twice to get the dash lit up but do not turn engine on. Leave the ignition on for 10 minutes and then start the car. Everything should function!

You can then replace the dashpod. The fun bit is refitting the lower dash panel. It's a real pain. Right at the back there are two white clips that hold the edge of the panel in position. On the right hand inner wing side there is a black bracket and the panel must sit above this or the screw holes will not line up. Once you have the panel in the white slots and above the bracket you can pushfit the cover where it locates under the dashpod. Then at the side there is a flap that fixes into the side panel with a bolt. Do that up loosely first. Then refit the two screws on the underside of the panel. Do these up tight otherwise the panel will drop out as you try to move the fuse box panels to line up all the screw holes. I fitted the screw at the bottom near the door seal next, as it was the hardest to line up. Then just jiggle the components to line up the others before finally tightening all the screws and fixing the fuse cover.

Then readjust the steering wheel and start the car!

Cheers

Rich


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Nice one Rich glad you've got it sorted  Was it the guys from the repair centre that fixed you up ?


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## Charlie (Dec 15, 2006)

What a relief Rich  you will be able to make the tunnel run now 

Charlie


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

basky said:


> Nice one Rich glad you've got it sorted  Was it the guys from the repair centre that fixed you up ?


Yep they sent me those instructions for refitting. Shame they didn't do that when they sent the dashpod back... :lol:

But at least it's all working.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Charlie said:


> What a relief Rich  you will be able to make the tunnel run now
> 
> Charlie


Unfortunately not Charlie. I have to pick my old man up from the airport because my Aunt has pranged her car in the ice... :?

I've gotta drive a maroon Mazda Xedos 6. Thank god it'll be dark! 8)


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## chrisp_1 (Jun 21, 2010)

rustyintegrale said:


> Whooppee! Car is fixed. :x
> 
> Okay, I'd suggest that anyone wishing to do a DIY dashpod removal and refit following a repair make a note of this...
> 
> ...


this needs to go on knowledge base or sticky - congratulations on the fix m8.


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## WhittleTT (Sep 11, 2010)

Thanks for the info!.

I'm pleased you managed to sort the problem out, i may have to do the same soon.

I took my car back to the garage due to a faulty petrol gauge, seems odd really when i fill the car up the neadle goes to full no problem, then it seems to go down to 3/4 and take ages to go to half.

Once it does get to half it stays there for ages, it does drop though pretty quick after a while.
Strange thing is when i put the ignition on even with not much fuel the reading always goes back up to half before gradually going down.

Problem is when im below a 1/4 of a tank i am just not sure what is in the tank 

Thanks again, please you fixed yours!


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

WhittleTT said:


> Thanks for the info!.
> 
> I'm pleased you managed to sort the problem out, i may have to do the same soon.
> 
> ...


Thanks mate. Now guaranteed for two years so I hope I don't have to take it out again! Happy to help others do it locally! :wink:


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## Diveratt (Aug 31, 2009)

Off on the tunnel run now then are we Rich?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

Diveratt said:


> Off on the tunnel run now then are we Rich?


I wish Kev, :roll: I have now been tasked with fetching my old man and his girlfriend from the airport as my Aunt has pranged her car. I'm driving my Dad's maroon Mazda Xedos 6. I'll be wearing some nice beige slacks... :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Diveratt (Aug 31, 2009)

To bad Rich  It lookes like it will be a good night. I'm still offshore but if I'd been home I would have been tempted to run up from Devon.

Kevin


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## Gazzer (Jun 12, 2010)

rustyintegrale said:


> Whooppee! Car is fixed. :x
> 
> Okay, I'd suggest that anyone wishing to do a DIY dashpod removal and refit following a repair make a note of this...
> 
> ...


jeees, and those steps are required to stop a thief from doing what exactly? why so complicated i'll never know. in essence if u have the master red key for the vehicle, why didnt they just set that as a major reset option for the vehicle. glad you got it sorted, but flippin heck what a pulava to go through.........reminded me of my rugby days and the drinking games


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

That sounds very long winded; I wonder if it actually matches the dashpod to the ECU and if it could be used for a dashpod replacement?

When I had mine out, to replace the LCD, I just unplugged it and then plugged it back in a few hours later.


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## Gazzer (Jun 12, 2010)

peter-ss said:


> That sounds very long winded; I wonder if it actually matches the dashpod to the ECU and if it could be used for a dashpod replacement?
> 
> When I had mine out, to replace the LCD, I just unplugged it and then plugged it back in a few hours later.


ahhh peter u must have the flux capasitor version with the under seat tray for the spare lynx effect bird puller.


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

peter-ss said:


> That sounds very long winded; I wonder if it actually matches the dashpod to the ECU and if it could be used for a dashpod replacement?
> 
> When I had mine out, to replace the LCD, I just unplugged it and then plugged it back in a few hours later.


Do you remember if you disconnected the battery before removing the dashpod?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

gazzer1964 said:


> ...but flippin heck what a pulava to go through.........reminded me of my rugby days and the drinking games


Yeah it does sound like one of those 'lick the finger and hold it to the wind' moments... :lol:


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Rich when I had my first TT a left hooker many years ago, I removed the pod to replace the dials from Kilometres to miles and never disconnected the battery :?


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

basky said:


> Rich when I had my first TT a left hooker many years ago, I removed the pod to replace the dials from Kilometres to miles and never disconnected the battery :?


Well that may be the difference then. I was told by BBA Reman that i should disconnect the battery to avoid voltage spiking, yet Cluster Repairs who eventually did the repair said that the battery should be connected before attaching the dashpod - so no worries about voltage spiking from them. :roll: :roll: It's probably the battery disconnection initially that caused all my problems.

But I ain't about to try it out... :lol: :lol:

Cheers

rich


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

rustyintegrale said:


> Do you remember if you disconnected the battery before removing the dashpod?


I'm pretty sure that I just unplugged the dashpod and left the battery connected.


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## DuTTchNL (Sep 18, 2010)

I had the same problem.

Was reading through the whole procedure [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I should be more simple, left my car alone outside in the meanwhile. Locked it with the fob.

Was reading the forum for about half an hour and returned to my car to do the whole procedure.

I thought lets try it one more time and the immobiliser worked again! It's a miracle...


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