# Rear Seat Delete DIY



## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Hi All, im new to the forum (as a member) but have been using it as a source of info for the past 6 months from when i bought my TT, I must say its been a great source of info and answers for me when ive been working on the car.

So i thought i would give something back and share one of my projects i thought some of you may be intersted in.

My biggest project so far has been the rear seat delete, after seeing this as standard on the QS I almost immediately got to planning how i was going to remove my seats and install my own version.

After doing a lot of research on this and discovering that the stealership wanted over a £1000 for the OEM version I was looking around for someone who had done this themselves for less money!

I came across a few out there that had done DIY versions but none seemed to be similar to the OEM version, so I started to plan what i would need and for all those interested or wanting to do the rear seat delete themselves i came up with this list of what i would need to do the job below:

Things You Will Need:

Carbon Wrap (for the bar that goes between the seat restraints)

Strip of pine wood (to attach to the original boot floor to give me something to screw into)

DownPipe 50mm x 2m (for the horizontal bar)

MDF Sheet 12x1220x2440 (to build the new area up where the seats were)

Anthresite Carpet 3m x 1.35m (to cover the new floor once done)

Screws 30mm (to attach all of the framework and MDF)

Beading (to build up the framework)

Spray glue (to secure the carpet)

All of the above came in at between £50-60 so a dramatic saving on the original version.

And next is how I did it:

Firstly I removed the rear seats, this was a relatively easy job the bottom of the seat just pops off if you pull it upwards with a fair bit of force, next was the seat backrests, these are held on via some hex head bolts and 2 torx head bolts per side. Once these were undone the seats came straight out along with the seatbelts. Once this is done your left with the seat brackets which also come off quite easily when a few bolts have been removed. (See the first picture for the what the result of removing the seats and brackets should look like).










As you can see from this picture you I have screwed in some upright support posts into the plastic trim on each side, I have also added the first piece of MDF on top of these uprights. Just before this pic I screwed in a piece of 4 inch wide board onto the underside of the boot floor which I also screwed into to secure the MDF board.

The next few pictures show the next stages:










I have screwed in a few more support pieces, one more upright and a horizontal that you can see in the pic, ive also added the next piece of MDF so that I can get an idea of the sizes I need for the next bits and also gives me something else to screw into. Ive also added some supports on the underside of the MDF boards to stop them flexing too much.










One more piece added










Next piece added with some extra supports. After this stage I added the last piece of MDF to close the gap (sorry no pic).

Once all the framework etc was done it was time to cut the drainpipe to size and wrap in carbon fibre. You also need to cut out a slot on each side of the bar to allow for the seat restraint pins to fit inside the bar.

And lastly once all of the above was finished I removed the chrome brackets and the leather handle from the boot floor, then covered it as well as the MDF in spray glue, waited for it to go tacky then rolled the carpet out onto the glue. This bit was a little tricky as you need to cut the carpet to match the edges as you go along to stop the carpet from creasing. I then went over the whole carpet with my hands to smooth it all out and make sure all of the edges were butting up to the side panels of the interior.

The last job was to then replace the chrome brackets and the leather handle into the boot floor to make it look as it did before as well as holding the carpet down better.

Heres some pics of the finished job:





































Hope this helps anyone wanting to do the same, if you have any questions or want anymore info on this please feel free to ask.

Cheers.


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## Nitrojosh (Jun 1, 2013)

This is a great job!

Bookmarked for future reference, did you screw the batons directly into the boot floor?


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Cheers!

All of the batons were screwed into the plastic trim on each side and also screwed into eachother where it was possible. The reason for this was Im pretty sure the fuel tank is directly under the metal beneath the seats so didnt want to go into that with the screws!!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

You just need some of the TT style discs or "surrounds" that the tube goes into - which you might still find in the for sale section. 
Perhaps you might make your own cargo net for the tube as well, which people make from seatbelt material.


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Nice job but agree you need some sort of netting to split the boot and stop things rolling forward


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Both good points! Ive been planning on making the cargo net with some black nylon strapping (similar to seatbelt stuff) and maybe stitching it together, think that would do the job, ive worked out i would need a fair few meters found some on ebay for a good price so thats gonna be my next job! As far as the end rings go i couldnt find them anywhere so hopefully there may be some on the for sale section, il have a look tomorrow!


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## N60LOW (Jul 14, 2010)

Hi mate, how did you secure the bar?? Looks pretty cool though!


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## Beezaboi10 (Feb 5, 2013)

Thanks so much for this! I've been dying to do this for ages so this has helped massively! Definitely bookmarked this!


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

N60LOW said:


> Hi mate, how did you secure the bar?? Looks pretty cool though!


Hey, the bar was a tough one as without any special brackets I couldn't think of a good way of securing it, so I just cut it oversize and filed it back until it was a snug fit then for some extra security smeared a load of silicone sealant on the inside and it hasn't moved yet, still need to add some end caps to finish it off though, good thing with the silicone, it comes off pretty easy if you need it to so can still mod this if I need to.


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Beezaboi10 said:


> Thanks so much for this! I've been dying to do this for ages so this has helped massively! Definitely bookmarked this!


No problem mate, like I said I was in the same boat and couldn't find any real info on this so thought I would give it a go myself and help others out if I could, if there's anything else you need to know if and when you come to do it just let me know and Ill be glad to help where I can.


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## N60LOW (Jul 14, 2010)

I have actually just spoke to a company to see if I can get a decent roll cage for the rear half too, he can do me a bit of a discount as I may order 2 lol


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

Result is really great, unfortunately I didn't understand how you may have fixed the downpipe... 

Thanks in advance for your reply,

Pascal


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## Jay89 (Aug 21, 2013)

I've got a couple of the rings you need to finish off, pm me if you're interested


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## Peeunit (May 22, 2013)

Brilliant job mate. Looks very profesh.

Is there much of a weight saving with this? I guess the rear seasts weight quite a few Kilos? and that MDF is a fair bit less.
Also, is it much noisier without the rear seats?

Brilliant handi work tho mate, looks like a great finish


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Jay89 said:


> I've got a couple of the rings you need to finish off, pm me if you're interested


May you show pictures ? 

I didn't see the expalnation for the downpipe... sorry and thanks!


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

Looks simple but effective [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

katak said:


> Hello,
> 
> Result is really great, unfortunately I didn't understand how you may have fixed the downpipe...
> 
> ...


Hey, the downpipe is a work in progress at the moment, but basically i just cut it to size then wedged it into the space between where the seats would have been then sealed it with silicone sealant! When you remove the rear seats there are 2 chrome pins that stick out so you need to cut slots in the pipe so that it fits over the top of the pins, sorry indont have any pics to show this!


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Peeunit said:


> Brilliant job mate. Looks very profesh.
> 
> Is there much of a weight saving with this? I guess the rear seasts weight quite a few Kilos? and that MDF is a fair bit less.
> Also, is it much noisier without the rear seats?
> ...


Cheers mate appreciate your comments, i would say it saves quite a bit of weight, the seats, belts, bolts and brackets must have been close to a small guy in the back, where as the mdf i used was only 12mm stuff and because i didnt use that much it didnt weigh much at all!! I must admit i drove the car with the bare metal showing for a while and i could hear stones chipping and the road noise was loud, but now its done and by using acoustic carpet i would say its quiter in there now than it was with the seats in!!


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## LeeBarton88 (Jan 18, 2014)

Jay89 said:


> I've got a couple of the rings you need to finish off, pm me if you're interested


Hey, for some reason i cant pm, not enough posts or i may just not be doing it right, but do you know the internal diameter of the rings?

Cheers!


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

LeeBarton88 said:


> Jay89 said:
> 
> 
> > I've got a couple of the rings you need to finish off, pm me if you're interested
> ...


Should be 50mm

Paul


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## Jay89 (Aug 21, 2013)

Paulj100 said:


> LeeBarton88 said:
> 
> 
> > Jay89 said:
> ...


Yea they are 50mm ones, I had the same downpipe fitted in mine but have removed it and have the rings left in the garage


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## Jay89 (Aug 21, 2013)

LeeBarton88 said:


> Jay89 said:
> 
> 
> > I've got a couple of the rings you need to finish off, pm me if you're interested
> ...


I've inboxes you if you get it?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hello,

When u talking about dimension, 2 meters and 50 mm diameter are the exact values ?

Kind regards,

Katak


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

Good guide mate, probably gonna do the same mod myself, and put sound deadening in the "box". Do you notice the weight saving when driving?


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## katak (Jan 26, 2010)

Hi,

Would you have some photos of the bar connection ?
It seems difficult to me...

I'm wondering if a 60 mm diameter wouldn't be visually better ?! 

See you


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

katak said:


> Hi,
> 
> Would you have some photos of the bar connection ?
> It seems difficult to me...
> ...


once the seats are out you will see what needs to be done. get the pipe too long and trim it til it fits snug- not too snug so it flexes though!

60mm may look good, may look overkill? but for a few quid you can always try both?


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Looks great! Is the boot bit made from wood too? Or is it the boot may still? Did you cover that in carpet? I'm a little confused.

And that wooden strip nearer to the front, is that screwed into the body?

And are there any visible screws? Or did you glue the mdf wood down onto the supporting wood?

Thank you 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

I can see where it joins, or did you cover it while it was all fixed in the car?

Thanks 

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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Can't** sorry

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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

I am planning on doing this later this year so scouring threads for ideas. This looks perfect but would i be correct in saying that there is no access to the fuel pump? It looks to me as its all been screwed down and then carpeted. By the sounds of it the carpet has also been glued in place.

Going to be a bit messy if you ever had to get back in there. Any others that have done this mod explain how they got around this?

Only way i could think of is if you had the screws holding it down going through the carpet for easy access? Not as pretty looking but i would hate to do this and then need access to the top of the fuel tank later on down the road.


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

BaueruTc said:


> I am planning on doing this later this year so scouring threads for ideas. This looks perfect but would i be correct in saying that there is no access to the fuel pump? It looks to me as its all been screwed down and then carpeted. By the sounds of it the carpet has also been glued in place.
> 
> Going to be a bit messy if you ever had to get back in there. Any others that have done this mod explain how they got around this?
> 
> Only way i could think of is if you had the screws holding it down going through the carpet for easy access? Not as pretty looking but i would hate to do this and then need access to the top of the fuel tank later on down the road.


thats the exact reason i Abandoned my build half way through- my fuel level sender is kaput so i didnt want to seal it off!

I think ideally the top piece should be removable and carpeted seperately, and secured with fancy fixings- maybe m6 counter sunk allen bolts going into a threaded insert in the supporting wood.


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

fixitagaintomoz said:


> BaueruTc said:
> 
> 
> > I am planning on doing this later this year so scouring threads for ideas. This looks perfect but would i be correct in saying that there is no access to the fuel pump? It looks to me as its all been screwed down and then carpeted. By the sounds of it the carpet has also been glued in place.
> ...


Yes this is one of the reasons that i would want to keep access as i have seen threads where people have had dodgy senders and not actual dash pod problems. Never thought of some nice allen bolts in black. I have a week off in May so if i can gather enough info and supplies then i may give it a shot. Access needs to be there for me though. Just don't want it to end up looking ridiculous. I have seen at least two builds which left me with tears in my eyes when i saw the end results.


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

Ive got a load of m6 sountersunk allen head in black and about 20mm long, should be just what yoy need and i can give you a link for the inserts....pm me if you want- i can send you the bolts for the price of postage- ive got a fair few knocking around so its no drama for me if you do want some


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## tonksy26 (Jan 31, 2011)

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=301274&hilit=+Seat+delete

mines held down with Velcro, so access to fuel pump and spare wheel.


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

tonksy26 said:


> http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=301274&hilit=+Seat+delete
> 
> mines held down with Velcro, so access to fuel pump and spare wheel.


Velcro! Never thought of that. I knew you had done one but it was not coming up in searches that i was making. A couple of cup holders in there too! Now thats an idea!

Can i ask what the reason was for the wooden boot floor? Just looking how you did yours and could you not have gotten away with just making the section for the where the rear seat was? Or im guessing its so the carpet was the correct colour all the way through?

Cheers Tonksy!


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## tonksy26 (Jan 31, 2011)

BaueruTc said:


> tonksy26 said:
> 
> 
> > http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=301274&hilit=+Seat+delete
> ...


Yeah so it matches the whole way through and give it continuity. It just wouldn't work (or look right) without the rear false floor.


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## tim_tt (Feb 18, 2014)

This looks brilliant good work  were did you get the horizontal bar from as thinking of doing mine as my false floor almost ready

Cheers


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

What you need is cubby holes to hold all of the stuff that rolls about in the back of the car and behind the front seats, de-icer, maps, tools, etc, etc
















Never mind the flooring it's all carpeted now and with easy access to the fuel tank stuff so remember you can never have too much storage

Stevie

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## CharlieHodgson (Nov 14, 2014)

> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=301274&hilit=+Seat+delete
> 
> mines held down with Velcro, so access to fuel pump and spare wheel.


Sorry, how do you mean held down with velcro? what exactly is held down and to where? The constructed frame to the car?


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## Tom1103 (Aug 19, 2014)

Hi I think I'm going to give this a go.

Just one thing....what does it look like when you close the boot? Does the boot cover it all up. Or does it just hang there and not really but up to anything?

Any pictures?


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## tommatt90 (Feb 2, 2012)

Your question isn't making sense to me can you clarify please. Does what hang where :S


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## kmayfield (Feb 26, 2017)

Can I get the Detail Info on the Rear Seat Delete Kit?


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