# Replacing a Mk2 sidelight bulb / Headlight removal



## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

When I needed to replace one of my front sidelight bulbs recently it wasn't completely obvious how to do it so I thought that I'd write a quick 'How to'.

Replacement of the majority of the front bulbs requires removal of the headlight unit. The only tool required for this is a T30 Torx driver, which you should find within the Audi tool kit in the boot.










With the lights turned off, the ignition key removed and the bonnet open the first thing to do is remove the plastic trim shown below.










To remove the trim you need to squeeze and lift the clip shown here.










With the clip undone the trim pulls away - It's held in position with more clips as can be seen in this photo.










With the trim removed you have access to all three screws that hold the headlight in place. The two outer screws need only to be undone by about five turns.



















The centre screw needs to be completely removed.










Before removing the headlight it needs to be disconnected - push the connector, on the back of the headlight, towards the headlight, then press the clip on the side of the connector and pull the connector away from the light.










The headlight can now be carefully withdrawn by gently manoeuvring it out of position.










Here's some views of my removed headlight, which is fitted with a Bi-Xenon main beam and a 21w DRL.

Bottom










Rear










With the headlight out it's a case of figuring out which of the rubber bungs you need to remove to gain access to the bulb that needs changing. In my case it was the sidelight bulb that had gone so I removed the bung shown below, which revealed the bulb holder tab.










Pulling the tab disengaged the holder from the headlight allowing the holder to be withdrawn through the hole.










Once the bulb has been replaced it's just a case of refitting everything in reverse order of removal. With the headlight slotted back into position it's worth making sure that it's correctly aligned with the bodywork before fully tightening the three bolts, refitting the plastic cover and plugging it back in.










Jon done!


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## 2Slick (May 20, 2011)

Fantastic Job!


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## Inked (Sep 8, 2012)

Good write up with pic's
Top Job.......................... :lol:


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## j4jure (Aug 19, 2012)

Great tuto, thanks for putting it together!


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## GreyhoundTT (Nov 30, 2012)

Great write up, just done this on mine and took a while to work out what was what, could have done with the pics then.


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## BMWBig6 (Sep 10, 2007)

Great post! So does one have to realign (re-aim) the headlamps following removal and replacement? Or does snugging up those 3 bolts put things back the way they were "close enough?"


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

You can only adjust the headlight very slightly in and out (it doesn't seem to tilt) so I can't see it affecting the beam angle.


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## browny1992 (Jan 7, 2013)

always a nightmare job
good write up


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## Jaysephine (Jul 27, 2013)

Just ordered two replacement securing plastic brackets that slide into the bottom of the clusters as I totally snapped them removing the clusters the first time [smiley=bigcry.gif] Luckily they're only £1.71 for 4 lol...

Tut tut - learnt my lesson !!!


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## cookymunster (Jul 24, 2013)

Top Tutorial and thank you for spending the time to share it. 
I know these things take a while to put together.

Star MAN


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## Spaceman10 (Nov 15, 2011)

Hi Pete

Nice write up mate

Phil


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Always appreciate a good How To. Thanks for putting the time in for us all. Might be need by me one day.


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## IC_HOTT (May 29, 2010)

peter-ss said:


> When I needed to replace one of my front sidelight bulbs recently . . .


"Great post! So does one have to realign (re-aim) the headlamps following removal and replacement? Or does snugging up those 3 bolts put things back the way they were "close enough?"

No realignment necessary, See the short black bolt below left of the red circle - when you replace the lens unit just ensure this 'pre-set' bolt is pushed up against its stop, then its back in the correct place whilst you tighten the other bolts.

Great post Peter, did you consider replacing sidelights with nice white LEDs to match your xenon headlights?


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

I fiddled about with LEDs on my DRL lights a while ago and also gave some ultra-white bulbs a go but they were nothing but trouble so I've not tried since.


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## ABQautoxer (Nov 21, 2013)

Can you confirm the bulb is W5W (194 here in the USA) on the HID setup? I've found conflicting documentation and was going to call the dealer in the AM but I wanted to be sure as my left side is out and I'm getting the prompt on the dash.


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## Sticks (Sep 3, 2008)

Thanks very much, very helpful, will keep that handy. [smiley=book2.gif]


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

ABQautoxer said:


> Can you confirm the bulb is W5W (194 here in the USA) on the HID setup? I've found conflicting documentation and was going to call the dealer in the AM but I wanted to be sure as my left side is out and I'm getting the prompt on the dash.


Unfortunately I too have read conflicting things and if you look at the photo of the bottom of the headlight, even that shows three possibilities.

If you look closely, between the bottom of the headlight and the lower lens, you may be able to see enough of the bulb in the lower reflector to identify it.

Failing that, the only way to be sure is to remove the headlight and have a look.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## TinPM (Dec 1, 2013)

Fantastic step by step guide. If only I could find the same thing for the Mk 1...


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

TinPM said:


> Fantastic step by step guide. If only I could find the same thing for the Mk 1...


What, like this thread and the links it contains:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=124677&p=1303695


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Regarding the side light bulb: it should be H6W on the cars with Xenon and W5W on the cars with Halogen lights. After the face lift it became a LEDs.


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## Jwilliams0805 (Nov 2, 2013)

TT-driver said:


> Regarding the side light bulb: it should be H6W on the cars with Xenon and W5W on the cars with Halogen lights. After the face lift it became a LEDs.


whats is the type of LED I need for a non facelift with xenons that are canbus ready?
Tried ebay but not 100% sure ones that will work

Josh


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## eastwood1875 (Jun 21, 2013)

Excellent guide and thank-you


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

After having changed the headlight bulbs over the weekend, a couple of points I would like to add which may help someone else. 
To aid reinstallation, before headlight removal, mark some lines across the headlight and bumper. It is suprising just how far out you can be without these marks.
I really struggled with the removal of the triangular shape trim cover. The first two clips come off fine but the third lower one no matter how I pushed or pulled I couldnt get it off. Fortunately you get get it from behind using a long screwdriver.
I can also confirm the headlight bulb is type D1S Osram 66140


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## Daisevo (Jan 23, 2014)

Thankyou so much for this tutorial!


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## sloath (Apr 1, 2014)

Jaysephine said:


> Just ordered two replacement securing plastic brackets that slide into the bottom of the clusters as I totally snapped them removing the clusters the first time [smiley=bigcry.gif] Luckily they're only £1.71 for 4 lol...
> 
> Tut tut - learnt my lesson !!!


Where can you order the replacement securing plastic brackets as I have also broken them removing the headlight. should have looked at the guide before I started.


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## richard- (Jul 12, 2011)

I'm having difficulty removing this bolt, it has rusted and it will not budge. I have tried wd40, and a hammer but with no luck :x


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## mr pee (May 9, 2011)

richard- said:


> I'm having difficulty removing this bolt, it has rusted and it will not budge. I have tried wd40, and a hammer but with no luck :x


Did you leave the WD40 to soak in? If not try it again now as a stubborn bolt needs to soak


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

richard- said:


> I'm having difficulty removing this bolt, it has rusted and it will not budge. I have tried wd40, and a hammer but with no luck :x


Have you tried a screw driver? :lol:

Apply plenty of wd40 and try the cover the back of the screw too. Some times tightening the screw a bit further before trying to undo it helps too. Then wiggling it loose (tighten/untighten bit by bit) while applying wd 40.


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## mr pee (May 9, 2011)

are you using a quality driver? the one that comes in the boot didn't do mine when I changed my bulbs the other week, If all else fails you could try an impact driver basicity a strong stout driver which you put your torx bit in and you smack it with a hammer, as the hammer hits it the shaft rotates which hopefully undoes the screw/ bolt


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

If you are using the supplied tool then applying sufficient torque is not easy.

Soak in WD40 or other release agent and try the correct Torx bit with a long extension and ratchet or tommy bar. 
Tighten the fastener slightly to break the hold of any rust.

An impact driver could work - but there are some expensive parts there if you are inaccurate with the hammer!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Careful there with hammers and impact drivers... a lot of stuff back there is plastic (ok composite material, to make it sound more premium). The screw may actually be in a metal retainer in a plastic area.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

You can see the bolt in this photo:


All the supporting structure around the two lower bolts and the two clips is plastic so belting the screwdriver or using an impact driver is inadvisable.


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## m-a-r-k (Nov 17, 2009)

I always found penetrating oil to work better than WD40.
Also, although I usually agree with everything Brian says , I would use the shortest drive you can get away with. With long extensions any small lateral movement where you are holding it at the top results in a greater chance to damage the screw/bolt head when applying force - it's just more wobbly if you see what I mean.


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## Hipstar (Dec 30, 2014)

Great guide, I've just used it: thank you.


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## Sticks (Sep 3, 2008)

Thanks very much for this very good write up Peter, and for others' useful input.

A friend and I had a go at this today. No problem removing the trim (fingers under the lowest edge, press down with the other hand and pull away from the car to start) or identifying the screws but.....

Having got it all loose, with the middle screw removed the headlight still seemed secured by something at the outer/wing end. Having manipulated it in every possible direction it still wouldn't budge. We tried the other one, just in case, no joy.

Are we missing something? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks very much.

By the way, there is some adjustment if you need it. There are two white plastic allen key sockets, if you look down on the lights with the bonnet up. A few turns of the inner one fixed the beam distance on mine, which was why I thought I'd (finally) change the bulbs in the first place.

Thanks

Nick


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

There are three bolts that hold the light in place, all are circled in red in peters first post, one on the inner light edge where it meets the centre grille, one at the wing end of the light that you can see if you shine a torch down the back edge of the light both of which just need to be loosened not removed and the last is the centre one you can see which does need removed, all three are the same head but require the long tool option to be fitted to the screwdriver handle that comes in the boot of the car, remember and unclip the wiring harness before pulling the light out of the car

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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

It doesn't sound like you've missed anything.

Maybe the light unit is just catching something and needs gentle manoeuvring to get it out.


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## Sticks (Sep 3, 2008)

Thanks for your replies. We had another look at it yesterday and it was fine. I found a torx driver, which I suspect has been lurking unused in my garage since 1990, which was a lot easier. The clips and main beam bulbs are a little fiddly, but correct fitting is also in the handbook.

Upgrading to the better output bulbs is certainly worthwhile, I wish I'd done it years ago.

Thanks again

Nick


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## lordlee (Jun 20, 2012)

I tried fitting some LED sidelights with resistors built in and they throw a bulb warning still. I tried two different types of LED's but still no joy. Could it be possible that I need some VAGCOM coding? The bulbs work properly in my SL and throw no code so I think I can rule the bulbs out as being faulty. When I put them in the TT they light up but go off after 5 or so seconds, quite frustrating!


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## NK9TT (Nov 2, 2015)

Funny that I read this post yesterday and then today when I tried to change my bulbs I had the exact same problem with rust in that same screw! 

I echo what others have said- the tool supplied in the boot is not that sturdy/great. I'm going to give another go with my personal tools when I get access to my toolbox.

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## NK9TT (Nov 2, 2015)

lordlee said:


> I tried fitting some LED sidelights with resistors built in and they throw a bulb warning still. I tried two different types of LED's but still no joy. Could it be possible that I need some VAGCOM coding? The bulbs work properly in my SL and throw no code so I think I can rule the bulbs out as being faulty. When I put them in the TT they light up but go off after 5 or so seconds, quite frustrating!


exact same issue here lordlee. In fact I ordered a different set but may even return them now if it's unlikely they'll work..

Did you manage to find a workaround?

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## NK9TT (Nov 2, 2015)

Just thought I'd say the second set which had visible resistors worked a treat and now the issue is sorted!

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