# Getting a 225 to 300BHP



## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

Anyone able to say in laymans terms what is involved, what is needed and how much it costs to get a 225 to hit 300BHP?
I am just curious how it is done.
Thanks


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

i have just over 300.

hybrid turbo, tip,injectors,fuel pump,fuel filter,sparkplugs,mapping,labour !

plus intercooler, airfilter, i think thats it, oh and a decat, lol

all in i paid around 2.3k !

well worth it though 8) 8)


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Don't do it... If back before I started I knew then what I know now I would have got a Badger5 V2.2 80MM tip and a custom map and called it a day, take the counter-weight off the back for a slightly lighter car and yeah call it a day !


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

Any photos of the car and engine?

what is a 'tip'?

just bought my 2nd 225 yesterday and it has a HONDA S2000 1999-2009 AP1 AP2 F20C NIPPON MICRO AIR FILTER, NGK spark plugs BKR7E and a Scorpion Stainless Steel Cat Back exhaust - any good?


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

TT Tom TT said:


> Don't do it... If back before I started I knew then what I know now I would have got a Badger5 V2.2 80MM tip and a custom map and called it a day, take the counter-weight off the back for a slightly lighter car and yeah call it a day !


Why?


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

sferg410 said:


> Any photos of the car and engine?
> 
> what is a 'tip'?
> 
> just bought my 2nd 225 yesterday and it has a HONDA S2000 1999-2009 AP1 AP2 F20C NIPPON MICRO AIR FILTER, NGK spark plugs BKR7E and a Scorpion Stainless Steel Cat Back exhaust - any good?


Yep that's all good just get a Badger5 V2.2 TIP on it and then take it for a PROPER CUSTOM MAP somewhere and call it a day 8)... And to explain what a TIP is:

TIP is an acronym for Turbo Intake Pipe. It is the large silicon flexible pipe between the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) and the compressor inlet of the turbo. You can't miss it. Look at your S2000 air filter which attached to your MAF, it is the large bore pipe which is then connected to your MAF.

This is what you need to replace it with:
http://badger5.biz/epages/3927bc2c-...6/Products/v2.2tips/SubProducts/v2.2tips-0002



sferg410 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > Don't do it... If back before I started I knew then what I know now I would have got a Badger5 V2.2 80MM tip and a custom map and called it a day, take the counter-weight off the back for a slightly lighter car and yeah call it a day !
> ...


Cost versus horsepower becomes ridiculous just for an extra 25bhp from 275bhp to 300bhp.


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

$$$$$$£££££££

As Tom says with a decent large Turbo Intake Pipe and custom map you can get 265 ish. Chasing the elusive 300 is not a very good £/bhp ratio


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh and he beat me to it


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

So all the other stuff, £2k worth of gear only increases the bhp by about another 25 - 30 points? That is crazy.

And the tip that was mentioned plus a good remap gets you to 275BHP for what £500 total?

Does mpg go down even lower?

All that forge stuff and colour pipes/crome etc is all pretty much just cosmetic then?


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

sferg410 said:


> So all the other stuff, £2k worth of gear only increases the bhp by about another 25 - 30 points? That is crazy.
> 
> And the tip that was mentioned plus a good remap gets you to 275BHP for what £500 total?
> 
> Does mpg go down even lower?


Typically more power = more fuel but only when that power is exercised. I would expect 265-275 depending on multiple factors E.G. dyno lottery, engine and turbo health but yep. You're better off with a nice filter I.E. The S2000 you have, the large bore Badger TIP and then a remap ... Any more is crazy money.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

i should also add, i didnt buy everything all in one day, because there is no time limit, you manage your spending as you go, start off with a tip and a map, see how you like it 

i didnt plan to go this route, but after a replacing the turbo when there was no need, i kind of felt obliged to go as far as i could with it, lol but of course i didnt, because i was also considering a gas flowed head and a new mani.

and then of course there is w.m.i 8)

so i do have more power to play with later on, should i feel the need.


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

infidel.uk said:


> i should also add, i didnt buy everything all in one day, because there is no time limit, you manage your spending as you go, start off with a tip and a map, see how you like it
> 
> i didnt plan to go this route, but after a replacing the turbo when there was no need, i kind of felt obliged to go as far as i could with it, lol but of course i didnt, because i was also considering a gas flowed head and a new mani.
> 
> ...


After you first paragraph you just seemed to start talking a different language!! lol


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

infidel.uk said:


> so i do have more power to play with later on, should i feel the need.


Have you done your rods yet inf? Thought that's why you stopped at 300 :wink:


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

TT-Dru said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > so i do have more power to play with later on, should i feel the need.
> ...


And whilst you're doing that you might as well do big end shell bearings, hone the cylinder head, skim the head for the new gasket, new valve stem seals, exhaust guides and lap in some new and possibly uprated exhaust valves whilst you're there, new piston rings and chemically clean everything... That's why going past 300 is an even bigger ball-ache then getting TO 300 as the OP will now know :lol:.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

TT Tom TT said:


> TT-Dru said:
> 
> 
> > infidel.uk said:
> ...


Come on Tom, don't let you knock out by some little setbacks. Don't cheap out but do it right the first time.

Something with sour taste of lemons after sweet taste of cheap things [smiley=book2.gif]


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> Come on Tom, don't let you knock out by some little setbacks. Don't cheap out but do it right the first time.
> 
> Something with sour taste of lemons after sweet taste of cheap things [smiley=book2.gif]


I'm not giving up I just don't want someone else to end up having a hard and expensive time to get to a magic 300bhp when they can get to 270 with ease and a full wallet :lol:.


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

Unless the car is a keeper then stay with remap , TIP , filter and exhaust .

Nobody mentioned suspension and brake mods you will need for the uprated power £££££££££££££££££££


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## Jools TT (Jan 21, 2017)

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > Come on Tom, don't let you knock out by some little setbacks. Don't cheap out but do it right the first time.
> ...


Some of us cant even get to 270 bhp with stage 2 mods , my car is such a lemon


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

My experience
Normal fuel , with a bog standard 225 car in good condition you should get 260 ish bhp /270-280 ft/lb of torque low down with a decent remap from ooh lets say WaK 

The search for 300bhp with the normal K04 turbo is gonna be a bit like Indiana Jones and the last crusade .
What about all the other bits: exhaust,fmic ,big TIP , cone filter etc etc . 
With standard turbo youll be playing around with getting another 10-15 bhp on top of that, adding those items and possibly another remap to optimise them.

But anything in excess of lets say 275-280 you will need those items or at least some of them if going for a hybrid turbo or a bigger turbo altogether .

The later torque onset with a bigger turbo, loosing that kick in the ass bump low down with your first remap..well thats another topic that the big turbo guys can tell about.
I think this link sums it up reasonably well.

http://euroturbo.net/product-info/vw-1- ... ngineinfo/


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## Sd TT (Jan 6, 2016)

Well I'm can't give you an exact answer to your question but in layman terms here you go.

So to get power gains there are several places to go. You need to get more and colder air in, change the timing for everything to work and then get the gases to leave quicker. So new air filter and change pipe work (could change turbo £££££), intercooler, remap and full exhaust. Once you done that I'm not sure what power gains you'll actually have but it will be quicker and smoother in its power delivery. By the time you've done all of that I'd recon you'd be in for at least £3000.

After that you could play with the engine more or make the car lighter. Really at the end of the day it depends what you're trying to achieve. Is it to drag race it or take it round the track. Or are you just wanting bragging rights, because if you make it faster, you'll also need to stop it ( brakes will defo over heat and fade if you're using 300hp) and if your going round the corner faster you'll need to make sure it will.

I know it's not exactly the full answer but I hope it gives you an idea. There are people out there who have done it and could exactly tell you but at least this is a start.


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

Thanks for all of your replies, they have been great. Like i said I was just curious about how it all works, was planning on doing it. The new tip and remap I will probably go for just to sweeten the car up and like they have said - leave it at that.


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

sferg410 said:


> Thanks for all of your replies, they have been great. Like i said I was just curious about how it all works, was planning on doing it. The new tip and remap I will probably go for just to sweeten the car up and like they have said - leave it at that.


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Let us know how you get on.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

sferg410 said:


> Thanks for all of your replies, they have been great. Like i said I was just curious about how it all works, was planning on doing it. The new tip and remap I will probably go for just to sweeten the car up and like they have said - leave it at that.


If doing the above, dont get the remap before the big TIP .. I have some experience with that. Also if you dont go to someone like WAK who tailors the map for what you have fitted and also spends time tuning the map instead of banging in a generic download you may have probs with any changes from standard.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

TT Tom TT said:


> TT-Dru said:
> 
> 
> > infidel.uk said:
> ...


well you should know more than anyone just how much of a ball ache it can be ? besides, ive done things with no time limit on them, so the longer i have the car, the more likely i am to take things further, slowly and properly, but im happy at the mo with it, if i had known it was the stem seals, i would never have gone down this route 

anyway i did have 257 bhp before on a totally standard engine, without the tip :wink: so im guessing the tip and a spruce up generally will do this guy a treat.


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## sferg410 (Oct 23, 2015)

where are the pics of yours infidel.uk ????


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

nothing to show really, other than an airfilter, its just like all the other tt's you see, mines silver 8)


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## SamDorey (Dec 31, 2016)

I think I've spent just under £2500 without the tune and having my exhaust fitted by a garage which took them 4 hours. I have yet to upgrade my brake.

All depends how much you're willing to spend and how much of the work you're doing yourself. If a garage does the work then obviously the price goes up. If it's just for road use, just stick to intake and stage one. For circuit racing you're going to have to think about suspension, tyres, brakes etc. Price also varies on what brand of parts you go for.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Why do I feel that most of the really important stuff to get a 225 to "300" aren't even mentioned here? I have a slightly different outlook than some of other poster, so here is my take (doesn't mean anyone is right or wrong) from taking my 225 to well over 300 at the wheels. The important stuff are:

1) a high flow exhaust manifold
2) a high flow intake manifold 
3) A good cooling method (efficient FMIC/SMICs, AWIC, or WMI) 
4) Tuning that's not going to water down all the effort
5) Good intake/exhaust systems

Let get this myth out of the way, it does cost but it is NOT painful or does NOT have to mean an empty wallet. As someone mentioned it can be done in stages, when I do things to my car, I make a list and concentrate on one item at the time. This means you can focus and not cut corners or settle... and it doesn't have to feel like you're taking a second mortgage. The secret with forced induction is that boost is everything (that why it's called forced induction) -- the more air molecules you can compress and cram on a fixed volume, the more power potential there is. Heat can be dealt with (#3 on my list) -- fuel need can be dealt with (as simple as running a higer FPR, I ran a 4.5 bar one for years) -- so the real obstacle is finding a way to get around the cookie-cutter mapping approach.

The only thing that can rain on the parade are the factory rods. So you have to keep it under 350 TQ of you're gambling. If you do the rods, then the sky is the limit. Someone proposed that you have to have a laundry list of engine internals, but all you need are OE-spec drop-in forged rods... everything else is being extra and adding bells and whistles (provided you have a reasonably healthy motor to begin with). Good luck!


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## Moonwatcher (Apr 1, 2015)

TT-Dru said:


> $$$$$$£££££££
> 
> As Tom says with a decent large Turbo Intake Pipe and custom map you can get 265 ish. Chasing the elusive 300 is not a very good £/bhp ratio


If a realistic target is circa 265ish then £400 spent at superchips.co.uk will get you a 54bhp increase 225+54, result 279bhp, got to be the most economic upgrade


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

Moonwatcher said:


> TT-Dru said:
> 
> 
> > $$$$$$£££££££
> ...


Superchips are full of shit. If you phone them up and ask they will tell you it's a mistake and will actually be 255-260. The 'mistake' on their website has been pointed out many times but they seem to 'forget' to fix it.


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## john.dixon63 (Jul 2, 2016)

I had my car dyno'd last week, 256 bhp and 390Nm torque. The guys at the performance centre though this was probably too much for my 16 yr old engine and even suggested reducing power to 240 to prolong the life of the old girl! So I guess it depends on what you're using the car for. I was hoping to go higher but they said its not worth the £'s to bhp.


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## Moonwatcher (Apr 1, 2015)

TT Tom TT said:


> Moonwatcher said:
> 
> 
> > TT-Dru said:
> ...


I have had three cars that I have used superchips.co.uk 
a 2009 S3 
a 2012 VW Caddy Sportline
a 2013 A3
whilst the only proof of the quality of shit you get from them would be to dyno before and after, but how many of us would do that, I'm saying that getting a superchips remap is an economic answer
I been content with Superchips three times, how many times have you used them :?:


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

> I have had three cars that I have used superchips.co.uk
> a 2009 S3
> a 2012 VW Caddy Sportline
> a 2013 A3
> ...


Superchips probably charge the same price as Wak / Badger5 or any custom mapper about 300-400. Superchips is no different from Revo / APR, it's not tailor-made and for this reason wouldn't be suitable for optimal gains, with or without a Badger 5 large bore Turbo Intake Pipe that the OP has decided he will be using.


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## Moonwatcher (Apr 1, 2015)

TT Tom TT said:


> > I have had three cars that I have used superchips.co.uk
> > a 2009 S3
> > a 2012 VW Caddy Sportline
> > a 2013 A3
> ...


Each method has it's plusses and minuses, in my opinion superchips gives the option to revert back at no extra cost, I agree it's not tailor made, there was an article last year in Audituner magazine a guy bought a MK1 TT, he wanted optimal gain, pushed it to 400bhp but it cost him £20k, As stated I've had 3 engines mapped for £600 in total, how many have you had/cost?


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

If you want cheep power, buy a tuning box. Less than 200quid and you can sell after you've finished with it. I had one fitted to my old Fabia 1.4tsi - stock 176hp and with a bluespark tunjng box 211hp (rolling road at Dynotech, Ripley). 
My 225 gave 256hp with a Revo stage 2 remap (Midland VW), with a Wak remap, 270ish.
Now running a gt2871r with custom manifold etc etc and maf values show around 340hp. I have now lost track of how much it's cost over the few years but it's over 4 grand

300hp will cost at least £1000 - end of story. And that's if you do all the work yourself. Been there and done that, I know what's involved. If you want a reliable (relative) 300hp you will need what Madmax has said which will set you back approx 2 grand min.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

To the above comments I'd say the following specifically for this 300-310 bhp target level.

1. The pushing the stock turbo is a risk but it is designed to flow for 300 if all is optimal
2. Id recommend hybrid or bt to get to 300 more easily. 
3. Max's list is good but I don't believe an intake manifold adds a great deal to the 1.8t capacity bottleneck. A less uniform and better flowing inlet mani may help a little but not essential. 
4. Stock fuel pump is 4bar rated , running a 4.5 bar fpr will just reduce its life as its being driven over rating all the time. Much better to stick to 3bar and increase fuel capacity with bigger injectors IMO. 
Ideally any pump over 80k miles should be renewed for peace of mind and having a good start point. 
5. On the cooling front a quality fmic is best ahc fabrications or forge are much more efficient than other smaller core replacements, however the cooling plus ignition advance benefits of water/meth IMO should be done first over an fmic and likely to compliment all the main bits to allow a healthy 300bhp figure. Without needing to change fmic. 
6. Exhaust manifold is ideally essential however their seems to be very little choice in a reliable k04 exhaust mani hence I wouldn't know what to recommend.

If targets are over 350bhp then I'd make some changes to the above comments.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

My £0.02 and passing on some of WaK's wisdom...

In terms of cooling, having spoken to WaK, it seems water methanol injection is more efficient than a FMIC. He has steered me in that direction and after doing some reading it seems WMI is the way forward. He has a Devils Own kit on his car.

At the moment mine has a badger5 TIP, decat, S2000 filter, and a WaK remap = indicated 265hp (on 95 RON - oversight on my behalf after my mate filled it up and I forgot to check!)

It's a track car so the main spending so far has been on handling; coilovers, camber adjustment, haldex insert etc.

At some point soon I'll get a MAF controlled WMI kit and then go back to WaK to tweak the map for the better cooling which should allow more ignition advance. I'm hoping 275ish will be achievable.

I don't intend to chase 300 if it's going to be uneconomical to get the last few horses. Plenty of other things to spunk my money on!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

FJ1000 said:


> He has a Devils Own kit on his car.


Just the nozzle. :roll: , the rest is Snow Performance.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Wak said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > He has a Devils Own kit on his car.
> ...


Ah, my mistake!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

TT Tom TT said:


> I'm not giving up I just don't want someone else to end up having a hard and expensive time to get to a magic 300bhp when they can get to 270 with ease and a full wallet :lol:.


Priced up the following for the old girl:

Custom 3" turbo back with 200 sport cat: £780
Badger5 TIP: £130
JR or K&N Cone Filter: around £65
Induction Heat Shield: £36
Custom map by Bill £300-400

I would be happy with at least 270 and leave it at that. Would this be a realistic figure if all else is in good working order?


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

SC0TTRS said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not giving up I just don't want someone else to end up having a hard and expensive time to get to a magic 300bhp when they can get to 270 with ease and a full wallet :lol:.
> ...


Yes, all great choices - the exhaust will only get you about 10bhp maybe less as you're using a sports cat and depends on the piping diameter too. I imagine you're getting it because you want a nicer sound though in which case fair enough , if you're getting it just for performance and don't care about the sound then don't bother because as you can see the exhaust is more expensive than all of your other components put together. You can buy the JR 70mm neck air filter from Badger5 too, it will just about stretch over your MAF.

Whilst you're there get Bill to carry out a health-check and boost leak check and then address any issues which may arise. No point in a remap if all of your boost is getting pushed out of a split or not quite tight enough hose somewhere .


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## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

TT Tom TT said:


> Yes, all great choices - the exhaust will only get you about 10bhp maybe less as you're using a sports cat and depends on the piping diameter too. I imagine you're getting it because you want a nicer sound though in which case fair enough , if you're getting it just for performance and don't care about the sound then don't bother because as you can see the exhaust is more expensive than all of your other components put together. You can buy the JR 70mm neck air filter from Badger5 too, it will just about stretch over your MAF.
> 
> Whilst you're there get Bill to carry out a health-check and boost leak check and then address any issues which may arise. No point in a remap if all of your boost is getting pushed out of a split or not quite tight enough hose somewhere .


Thanks for the feedback Tom 

OEM CAT only just got through the MOT this year so was looking to replace (an excuse really hehe) it with a sport's one and whilst I was there, replace the lot with 3" from turbo to tailpipe so I can forget about it. 8)

Once all fitted get it to Bill to work his magic and address any issues before a map.

Itching to get it done really, but got so many other things to pay out for this time of year though.. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## TT-Dru (Sep 5, 2015)

Bill does a health and leak check before commencing any mapping. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] The only thing I was warned about was to be prepared for coil pack failures. Fortunately there weren't any


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Wak said:


> To the above comments I'd say the following specifically for this 300-310 bhp target level.
> 
> 1. The pushing the stock turbo is a risk but it is designed to flow for 300 if all is optimal
> 2. Id recommend hybrid or bt to get to 300 more easily.
> ...


I agree with most of what you said here Wak, the fueling demand comment I made pertaining to raising the fuel pressure to get the desired flow was to point out that it doesn't have to be costly to be done. Ideally, as you mentioned, you want pump and injectors to be flowing without being stressed. That's why I run 1,200 cc injectors and a 265 L/h pump with just a hybrid.

The thing I disagree with intrinsically is the value of a high flow intake manifold on this platform. Coming in this community over a decade ago I was lead to believe the same too. People claimed that the stock inlet manifold flows well enough and that there wasn't much gain to be had from an aftermarket high flow unit. Well, doing research and finally testing it myself, it was just another one of those collective misconceptions. The stock unit proved to be very restrictive and upgrading to something better paid huge dividends.

Here is a test done by a magazine on their long time project Golf. I like to show this as evidence because it was done on a mostly "stockish" level car, and it's an independent test done back to back with zero variables. I would say that 20.64 whp and 35.19 wtq is enough to sway anyone that believed otherwise. I have several other dyno graphs showing similar results when using a good high flow intake manifold.

Article:
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to ... -manifold/










Even with all that evidence, nothing beats personal experience. When it came time for me to upgrade I also kept an eye for changes and improvements. Right off the bat, the gains were unmistakable. Without doing anything else, the car was boosting 3-4 psi higher just because of the manifold upgrade. 3-4 psi in a car like mine translates to even higher HP gains then what the magazine recorded. So the bread is in pudding on this one, all I know is that I wouldn't overlook the benefits form such a mod as there is more than knowledge base suggests.


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Cheers for that Max, 
Will take that on board... 
I guess I'm coming from have done a few cars to over 300 with stock manifold it didn't appear to be restrictive however seeing your post perhaps they would have done more with one.


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

There is a lot of cars with powers between 400-500hp with stock intake manifold,including mine;what is shocking me is i see more and more cars with this sort of power with small port head and the difference between big port and small sport based on dyno plots it`s around 20hp  
So,when we chasing big no looks like every little help in performance modes counts to the end.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

hang your idols said:


> There is a lot of cars with powers between 400-500hp with stock intake manifold,including mine;what is shocking me is i see more and more cars with this sort of power with small port head and the difference between big port and small sport based on dyno plots it`s around 20hp
> So,when we chasing big no looks like every little help in performance modes counts to the end.


Hi mate, not looking to argue, but have a productive discussion. The point being made is that it won't stop a car from making 400, 500 or more (the standard intake manifold that is), but a better flowing one would have resulted in more power. Wak understood where I was going with this based on the evidence provided. It won't stop you, but it will slow your overall potential.

I have dealt with the same thing with exhaust diameters. The generic 3" system won't stop a car from making power, but it's far from ideal on our turbo cars. I measured 1/2" of water restriction (using a magnehelic gauge a foot away from the tailpipe) with a 3" exhaust. By going with a 3.5" system there is still some reatriction but reduced to 0.1" of water on the gauge. All this resulted in quicker spool up, more boost (peak and average) at the same turbo shaft speed. So more power potential without adding heat or stress. The general consensus is that a 3" system is good enough for any power level, but as tested that is far from the truth even at my modest 400 WHP levels. So think about all the power lost through exhaust restrictions by those running a 2.5" system.

I have also came to the same conclusion when it comes to the factory inlet cam. Won't stop you from reaching whatever power goal, but you will see major improvement from a mild inlet cam upgrade at any level (from stock to BT) ... and with no real cons attached to it. I haven't done this one yet in my car, but it's on the To-Do list and holefully will allow me to break that magic 450 Wheel HP ceiling on a K04 frame turbo.

Sometimes the accepted concensus is not based on facts, that why I always challenge and test performance mods.

PS: the small port vs large port convo is another can of worms altogether, and I won't get into it so the thread isn't taken too far off topic. But something worth discussing will (maybe a different thread).


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

I totally agree with what you said Max,let`s why i said to the end everything counts.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

hang your idols said:


> There is a lot of cars with powers between 400-500hp with stock intake manifold,including mine;what is shocking me is i see more and more cars with this sort of power with small port head and the difference between big port and small sport based on dyno plots it`s around 20hp
> So,when we chasing big no looks like every little help in performance modes counts to the end.


With the power your car has currently you would be better off with a small port head ported than a large port head ...


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

Some interesting points being made max, wak , idol etc

This is me being positive btw xx


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## ProjectMick (Sep 29, 2015)

TT Tom TT said:


> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> > There is a lot of cars with powers between 400-500hp with stock intake manifold,including mine;what is shocking me is i see more and more cars with this sort of power with small port head and the difference between big port and small sport based on dyno plots it`s around 20hp
> ...


Tom. Leave he worms in the can please.....


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## Gtturbo (Jan 7, 2017)

Bin K04-023 for k04-064 
Live happily ever after.


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## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

ProjectMick said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> > hang your idols said:
> ...


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## hang your idols (Jul 8, 2013)

TT Tom TT said:


> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> > There is a lot of cars with powers between 400-500hp with stock intake manifold,including mine;what is shocking me is i see more and more cars with this sort of power with small port head and the difference between big port and small sport based on dyno plots it`s around 20hp
> ...


Well,the difference in power terms between my engine and other engine with the same hardware,the only difference it`s the head,is only 13hp and 30nm torque based on dyno plot  ;if it`s worth it or not,doesn`t meter,what it`s done,it`s done 

PS.-i have a conservative power on my request,could be push it 20-30hp more,i don`t know about the other car.


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## TTKen (Aug 9, 2018)

Was driving home earlier thinking i really could do with 350bhp and then i read this thread  I have the B5 TIP already so im heading straight to a rolling road and that's about it, anyone recommend one near me in Dorset? 
In pursuit of more power i feel better off getting a Mk2 TT and just remapping that (is that blasphemous saying that here)


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

TTKen said:


> Was driving home earlier thinking i really could do with 350bhp and then i read this thread  I have the B5 TIP already so im heading straight to a rolling road and that's about it, anyone recommend one near me in Dorset?
> In pursuit of more power i feel better off getting a Mk2 TT and just remapping that (is that blasphemous saying that here)


Whether you tune your mk1 or buy a mk2 and tune that one thing is certain, getting to 350bhp will lighten your wallet


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

its a shame intake manifolds are not too easy to buy new in the uk, ive seen second ones come up now and then, food for thought !


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

how about this one?
https://store.034motorsport.com/034moto ... -6842.html

these guys are authorised UK dealers, it's not on their website but worth a call maybe
https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collect ... motorsport


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

A grand for an inlet and throttle body

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## rakrynaz (Mar 30, 2019)

It's interesting reading all the necessary mods required for 400bhp.

I will most likely start a build thread soon to track my progress and get advice from everyone along the way.

A few weeks back I bought my first Mk1 TT and decided I would just cap upgrades at £2000 tops.

As of today that figure is roughly somewhere in the region of £6000 - £8000 and climbing. It's spiralled incredibly fast, but it's exciting as hell.

The plan is to push the car to 400bhp at some point, but what I've realised lately is that bhp isn't that important in a way. The torque figure is what I'll be chasing as that feeling when the car pull in higher gears is insane.

Wak remapped my car last Saturday and I have to say, that man is an absolute genius. The moment he said "A new map is on now, give it a go" I put my foot down and that thing just flew.

I also had the pleasure of meeting someone else from the TTForum that Wak referred to as 'Jay'. A really nice guy and to hear his car is at 400bhp gave me hope that I can take mine to that level at some pount. The torque is the main focus though.

It's alway good to see what people are doing to push the boundaries on here.


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

rakrynaz said:


> It's interesting reading all the necessary mods required for 400bhp.
> 
> I will most likely start a build thread soon to track my progress and get advice from everyone along the way.
> 
> ...


What turbo will you be using to accomplish this goal?


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## rakrynaz (Mar 30, 2019)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> rakrynaz said:
> 
> 
> > It's interesting reading all the necessary mods required for 400bhp.
> ...


That's where I'm hoping you guys can help offer advice.

I've been told the G25 is supposed to be really good in that it spools up the same as the OE turbo, as I want to avoid waiting half an hour for the lower rev range to work its magic.

Ideally a turbo that's more powerful than what I need to cope very easily (plenty of head room). In an ideal world I would like to get max power with short spool-up time, so whatever I upgrade to from OE I don't want to have to change at some point in the future.

I had a brief chat with Bill from Badger5 a few weeks back (I don't know the guy, just heard of Badger5 on here and called him) and he told me the next move up from the G25 would have a longer spool-up time, but would have a lot of power once it gets going, which is why I'm saying G25.

I'm open to any and all suggestions though, as you lot have an insane amount of knowledge and experience that I'm sure will save me money and time away from Shrek (my green TT) in the short and long-term


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

sferg410 said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > i should also add, i didnt buy everything all in one day, because there is no time limit, you manage your spending as you go, start off with a tip and a map, see how you like it
> ...


Modifying a car is addictive, do what you like.. don't listen to other people who ran out of cash and energy.

When the fun stops - stop!

Stage 1 -> 1.5 -> 2.0 -> 2.5 -> big turbo

But as others suggested getting to 270bhp is relatively easy, but you will always have the connecting rod grim reaper following you around.


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## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

TT-Dru said:


> infidel.uk said:
> 
> 
> > so i do have more power to play with later on, should i feel the need.
> ...


no, i probably wont now, rods, clutch, mapping, wmi to make it worth while, plus all the other bits its just too much money im afraid, plus ive done over 8k just on stereo and custom fab work, i was going to, as i had a 10k ppi payment, but i had to clear all my other debts 1st and its left me with less that id hoped  lol

The only option i have left now is to buy bits and save them all until i have everything.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I'm going to try big power without doing rods. I feel that they can take the abuses

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

rakrynaz said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > rakrynaz said:
> ...


desertstorm / karl has just upgraded to a g25.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

HOGG said:


> I'm going to try big power without doing rods. I feel that they can take the abuses
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


these were on a stock K04, although it was mapped with Antilag.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

HOGG said:


> I'm going to try big power without doing rods. I feel that they can take the abuses
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


With the wallet drainage that's required to achieve 350+ is it worth risking having to spend more when the rods finally give in, you'll be limited to how you can drive the car, it's a bit like having a stage 2 map with a old clutch kit in place it will protest against the torque that your asking it to deal with :lol:


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

StuartDB said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> > I'm going to try big power without doing rods. I feel that they can take the abuses
> ...


I got close with the previous version of my build. 25psi on stock internals, highly modified and with water injection.

I had low compression due to the compression piston rings. Rods were straight as an arrow after many anti lag launches also.

I always said it mattered what map you had.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If you got as far as changing piston rings why not change the rods too? It is only 8 extra bolts?


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

StuartDB said:


> If you got as far as changing piston rings why not change the rods too? It is only 8 extra bolts?


I rebuilt the entire motor, bottom end, valve train etc. New forged pistons, rods, bearings, hardware, valves, springs, retainers etc. Going to a gt2871r which I'm almost done with.

Was just saying that my engine handled the abuse well on stock internals. Probably poor oil change maintenance by myself and the previous owner did not help the rings.


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