# Pulled my water damaged Bose amp apart...



## logit (Aug 13, 2012)

After my door speakers stopped working. And it looks like the damage is as feared. You can see the extent of the corrosion in the pic (this was after gentle cleaning) - some of the terminals have completely disintegrated. I'm not forking out for a new one from Audi, so the options are:

Try to source a replacement 8J0035223C or D amp from ebay. But they don't come up that often, and you don't know the condition of the internals.

Fix the current amp - though I don't think my skills extend to resoldering the terminals...


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## sico (Feb 6, 2003)

Quite a few people with this now and some good pictures. Maybe time for another note to the BBC watchdog program? As per the dashpod on the MK1 this is not acceptable.


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## logit (Aug 13, 2012)

Yep! There were a few small stones rattling around inside the casing so clearly it's overly exposed to external elements!

I've attached a slightly clearer and larger pic highlighting the hole in the connectors - wouldn't be long before the other ones fully corroded through.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Hi,

I'm still wondering: where does the water come from. Last time I checked the amp wasn't part of the wheel well. :?


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## sico (Feb 6, 2003)

Must be condensation. I have put a large bag of silica gel in my boot next to the amp to soak up any moisture.


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## Dayer2910 (Apr 29, 2012)

Jesus.... that's some serious corrosion, no wonder mine is having a hissy fit...

The problem is its either cough up nearly 700 from audi or cough up the same for aftermarket set up that will replace the bose system, from all the research I've done its not as easy as just shoving in a new aftermarket amp due to the way the bose system is wired up...


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## GCTTS (Nov 11, 2012)

I replaced my Bose amp at the weekend due to the old one finally giving up on me. It was a C model and I ordered one off eBay from a company in turkey. Ive got another post about this but thought i'd share it with you, if it helps. The company, takici auto, actually ended up sending me a newer D model. I fitted it and problem has been fixed and its sounding pretty good. I'm hoping it lasts but still have a doubt each time I get in it !!

I thought it may even be a reconditioned one but it works and cost me £217.

Good luck.


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## wezzel98765 (May 7, 2011)

I can fix most waterdamaged stuff at my shop. Whee you located mste?

Sent from my Cube U30GT-H


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

For me I just dont get it. I have had this panel in the boot off for 6months and its bone dry. Obviously its not the amps fault that it has broken, its where the source of moisture is coming from would be my main concern as it will eventually start and smell the car and cause other corrosion problems.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

sico said:


> Must be condensation. I have put a large bag of silica gel in my boot next to the amp to soak up any moisture.


But amps get warm, don't they? In case of a roadster I could imagine it's a leak through the antenna opening.

I am worried about moisture in the car too.


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## logit (Aug 13, 2012)

wezzel98765 said:


> I can fix most waterdamaged stuff at my shop. Whee you located mste?
> 
> Sent from my Cube U30GT-H


I'm based in London. Could the missing connectors (apologies for my 'technical' knowledge  ) be replaced?

I also removed some tiny stones and dirt from the pcb. Really don't understand what they're doing there!


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## BigAardvaark (Mar 5, 2012)

I've just opened up GCrank's broken amp and it's very similar to the pic from the OP. Not quite as bad but is corroded in the exact same place, on the legs of the chips. Where IS this moisture coming from??

I can only think the "stones" you found were the remains of the chip legs that may have fried and melted creating little balls of metal or solder??


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

Is it possible the heat the amp generates would cause the condensation at certain times of the year and the problem is lack of ventillation?


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## Alexjh (Oct 10, 2012)

moro anis said:


> Is it possible the heat the amp generates would cause the condensation at certain times of the year and the problem is lack of ventillation?


I would think this also.

maybe open amps and coat it in silicone? then the components will not be exposed to the air... or dose the amp get REALLY hot?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

moro anis said:


> Is it possible the heat the amp generates would cause the condensation at certain times of the year and the problem is lack of ventillation?


It might actually be the opposite: When the amp is off it's cold. Water condensates on cold surfaces. Where it gets hot (well warm) is the boot floor pan. So in case the car is leaky, the floor pan might dry because of getting warmed by the exhaust. And at the same time the water condensates again on the cold heat sink of the amp.

The same could be true for moisture from the cabin. The ventilation holes are in the side panels of the boots space. The airflow is then past the amp, to the exit holes behind the bumper.

But in all cases the assumption would be: amp is often off and cold. Perhaps the design of the heat sink allows for droplets to enter the amp.

I guess the amp is a class D amp. I believe they don't get very hot, but I'd think warm enough to dry.

Lot's of speculation I know.... just trying to help here.


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

So many posts, no search function.

My amp that works is not in the rear well. 
It's in the 'spare wheel' well.

Apologies for the ghetto shit.... It sits with this;

Usual Chinese/Indian takeaway pot... Modified with holes. 









Industrial silicone.....









Dum***** answer....









I know no-one will take any notice. However, I will sort all this for anyone wanting the solution....
All I ask is...
Mixed kebab starter. 
Garlic chilli chicken. 
Keema rice. 
Five pints. 
Popadoms and pickle. 
And stop making so many posts about 'Bose Amps'.

Yeah, I'm in a bad mood...
X


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

*And a taxi home.


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## moro anis (May 27, 2010)

When I said about it getting hot, I was referring to the cooling function i.e. a hot amp cooling and causing condensation.
Sorry for the confusion.


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## BigAardvaark (Mar 5, 2012)

I'm liking the silica gel idea! Call it a portion of meat samosas ;-)


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## zip it (May 28, 2012)

Picture below is of my amp taken when it failed back in August last year. Totally wrecked by moisture damage. No idea where the moisture had come from, the area around the amp was dry and I couldn't see where water would even come from.

Getting a replacement was a pain, no used one's for sale and Audi wanting £650 to supply a new one. Took a few weeks but managed to buy one from another forum member.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Looks like it's always these 4 IC's that get soaked and corrode and non of the other parts. Are these IC's glued to the heat sink with thermal paste?


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## CWM3 (Mar 4, 2012)

Without inspection, it's only possible to speculate.

So far no one who has opened the case has made any note regards sealing/waterproofing of the unit.

The last picture shows that the same components are suffering degradation, everything else on the PCB looks OK from the pic.

It may be worth taking an opinion from a electronics guru. Just wondering if these components are frying themselves rather than any kind of water ingress.

It would be interesting to see if this is a design issue, that may help getting recompense from Audi (not that they ever seem to bother over s**t design), looks like another window regulator issue to me.

It's rare to ever hear of amps failing in large numbers on cars.


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## BigAardvaark (Mar 5, 2012)

TT-driver said:


> Looks like it's always these 4 IC's that get soaked and corrode and non of the other parts. Are these IC's glued to the heat sink with thermal paste?


Yes, there are thermal pads glued to the heatsink/main body of the amp and white thermal paste between those and the 4 chips themselves. Towards the middle of the PCB is another chip with black edges, that also has a thermal pad to the heatsink but no paste.


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## dmyl (Jun 28, 2010)

In case of corrosion you need to resold the ICs , maybe a rework station and an expert engineer needed.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Just have been looking at some pictures of the bose amp and how it's mounted in the car. The corroded chips are at the lower end of the amp and the amp has holes in the heat sink. Any condensation water or leaks from the antenna results in water running straight to the IC's of which the pins are corroded.

As long as the pins are still more or less fine, but issues are appearing, cleaning the pins with a toothpick and sealing them against moisture should fix the problem, according a German forum. I'm thinking of stuff like Flux SK10.

A German TT owner tried using pieces of sponge material between the ribs of the heat sink, that soak up any droplets. So far it seems to be working for him. But anyhow a redesign of the heat sink is mandatory in order to prevent this kind of breaking down.


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## wezzel98765 (May 7, 2011)

logit said:


> wezzel98765 said:
> 
> 
> > I can fix most waterdamaged stuff at my shop. Whee you located mste?
> ...


Your more than welcome to get a postage quote to ct149jb. It doesn't look unfixable. As long as the actual chips haven't burnt out, which I doubt they have, then it'll be fine. Feel free to private message me for my business details

Regards
Sent from my Cube U30GT-H


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## svtservices (Jun 4, 2013)

It's not condensation that causes this .. have a look at the corrosion on the outer case .. you can see where the water originates from and leaks into the circuit board - most likely comes from the rear light cluster after being washed with a pressure washer.
water drips into it at the top and settles on the lip then leaks in - this is where the amplifier modules are - we've seen one in for repair so bad that the unit had caught fire ... we still have it - I'll post a picture later.

They aren't a write off but can usually be repaired.

Cleaning the corrosion off may help but often as not we replace all 4 output modules - seal the pins with silicon and repair any damaged tracks

We always fit a plastic sheet over the top of the amp - it clips to the cradle at the top and deflects any water ingress .. well worth doing ! a couple of pounds can save you £700+


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## Patrizio72 (Mar 22, 2011)

If my amp ever dies on me my mate is a wizard with fixing and reflowing circuits etc, does all sorts of repairs on boards etc, he might save me a penny or two


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Be aware that the legs of the integrated circuits are corroding away. Restoring those would require a miracle...


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

svtservices said:


> It's not condensation that causes this .. have a look at the corrosion on the outer case .. you can see where the water originates from and leaks into the circuit board - most likely comes from the rear light cluster after being washed with a pressure washer.
> water drips into it at the top and settles on the lip then leaks in - this is where the amplifier modules are - we've seen one in for repair so bad that the unit had caught fire ... we still have it - I'll post a picture later.
> 
> They aren't a write off but can usually be repaired.
> ...


I dont think its water coming through from the light cluster, as when the cluster is removed the bodywork is sealed if you like, its not like removing the taillight and there is an open space to the inside of the car.


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## auditt (May 10, 2012)

Before you can repair your amp you will need to remove it. Here are some instructions on how to remove your interior without breaking all your fixing clips.

*INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO PHYSICALLY REMOVE YOUR BOSE AMP*

Here is a video on how to properly remove the side panel and Bose amp.





Once you get access to your amp, and done whatever repairs were necessary. You will need to fabricate a drip umbrella from an old fizzy drinks bottle. Cut up the bottle and fix it in place to prevent water dripping onto your Bose amp.


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