# How To: Replace Thermostat Housing - 2.0 TFSI



## poder

I replaced the thermostat housing on my 2006 2.0 TFSI (BWA engine). On this model it's not possible to change the thermostat only, but rather the whole housing has to be replaced.
This is not an easy job! There's not much room to work in and even though you start out in a Zen-like state of mind with unlimited patience, you're going to end up needing all your favorite swear words :lol:

Sorry the pictures are not great quality  I did change camera underways which helped a bit, but it was quite clouded and dark...
Not all steps are required to be in the described order and likely I forgot to mention some minor things, so don't start this thinking it's a no-brainer. Most likely you'll have to adjust the procedure slightly along the way...










Unfortunately the unit is located in a tight place on the side of the engine pointing towards the front of the car.

*Tools*
You'll need mostly basic tools but, also a 5 mm XZN (triple square) bit.

*The procedure&#8230;*

To gain access to the thermostat housing we need to remove some components, one of which is the alternator. For this reason we need to disconnect the battery (negative) earth.

1) In the boot, use a 10mm socket to loosen the battery negative wire









2) Put it to a side and make sure it won't touch the battery pole.









3) Put a rag or similar in the catch mechanism on the tailgate so it can't close - no power means your remote doesn't open the boot anymore ;-)









*Working underneath the car*
4) Remove the under tray
5) Unclip and remove the tube between the intercooler and the fixed pipe on the right hand side of the car. This will ease access to drain the coolant.









6) Drain the coolant into a suitable container by removing the clip and pulling off the hose connecting to the radiator. You may want to put something behind to avoid coolant splashes.









*Working from the top of the engine bay*

7) Remove the engine upper cover / air filter.
8.) Pull up the carbon canister and put to a side.









9) Mark the W-belt so that you can mount it the same way round again.
10) Use a 16 mm spanner to loosen the tensioner and insert a 4 mm drill (or something similar) in the hole to lock it.









11) Remove the W-belt
12) Undo the three bolts and remove the tensioner (23 Nm)
13) Undo the two bolts holding the alternator (23 Nm)
14) Take off the alternator plug along with the electrical wire and its holder and remove it completely.









15) Loosen the clips and pull off the hoses on the front metal coolant pipe.
16) Unscrew the single screw and remove the front metal coolant pipe completely.









17) Loosen the clip and pull off the hose from the topmost pipe on the thermostat housing.
18) Remove the screw holding the metal pipe to the front of the thermostat housing.









19) Remove the bolt holding the pipe at the other end. This is hidden behind some wires and very hard to see!
At this point I had started to remove a few other nuts, bolts and plugs that probably weren't necessary, just to find this bolt!









20) Put the inner metal coolant pipe as far to the gearbox side as possible.
21) Unclip and push/pull down the coolant hose connected to the bottom of the thermostat housing. This may require tapping with a screwdriver and hammer - look at the new thermostat housing on how it connects and where to safely tap.









22) Unscrew the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place (15 Nm).
23) Put a rag under to catch any coolant left and pull out the thermostat housing.
24) Lubricate the O-ring on the new thermostat housing, using coolant.









25) Position the new housing in place. You may not be able to push it all the way in due to the friction of the new O-ring.
26) Put the two bolts back in and tighten them using just your fingers at first. If you have to pull the housing in using the bolts, be sure to switch between the two, to make many small increments so it goes straight in. 15 Nm torque.

27) Reassemble rest in reverse order.
28) Put back in the old coolant fluid or new as required. Top up as needed.
29) Reconnect the battery negative earth.
30) Perform window reset procedure.
31) Enter code for radio if needed (it wasn't for my RNS-E)

Finally verify that the working temperature of the engine is correct at about 90 degrees celcius.

Result 8)


----------



## qooqiiu

Just what the MK2 forum needs!

Well done


----------



## TT-driver

Well done! Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.

Two questions/remarks: in de Audi Service manual, it is written that they use a special pump to let the engine suck in new coolant. Otherwise air might get trapped in the coolant circuit.

Somewhere else I read something about putting back the alternator. Apparently it comes with some sort of special gizmo that should hold it in place. If that was done wrong, the alternator might work itself loose.

Did you turn the heater to max before draining the coolant?

Any comments on these three points?

By the way: I wouldn't reuse any old coolant. It's cheap and better not risk getting any dirt into the system. Fresh coolant also means fresh protection additives.


----------



## poder

Thank you for your comments

You don't need any special (vacuum?) pump to do this, just refill coolant fluid very slowly to prevent air getting trapped in the system. There might be a little still, so top up after driving a few miles.

I'm not sure about the gizmo you mention. The alternator is bolted on with two bolts through some bushes. Make sure the bushes have not seized when you tighten the bolts or, if they come loose later, the bolts will effectively not be tight. Tap the bolts on the end of the head with a hammer once they are loosened a round or two, that will do it.

I changed the coolant last year ago when I did the cambelt and coolant pump, so I reused the coolant. I see no problem with this as long as you know it's fresh and the right mixture.
I did not turn the heater to max, as I didn't need all the coolant to leave the system and frankly I'm not convinced that it makes a difference on a modern(ish) system like this anyway :wink:


----------



## hot foot

Excellent guide, look forward to using it in the next week or two to do mine, thank you!


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.


That point has been in the How-To on disconnecting the battery for some time.


----------



## brittan

And poder's excellent How-To has now been added to the KB.


----------



## TT-driver

@ brittan: that's where this how to belongs 

I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:

@ poder: indeed it's those bushes I was referring to. Thanks for sharing how to handle those.


----------



## Krs8

Fantastic just what I needed. Just getting prepared to source a garage to fix for me...

Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:


I agree: hence highlighting where else that important precaution is noted. 
Nobody wants to crawl over the seats to try out the hatch manual release cable!



Krs8 said:


> Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


Yes, housing and thermostat is one part.


----------



## Steve R

Thanks Poder, a good how to, will probably be needing this in the future, but not to soon I hope.


----------



## efunc

I needed it yesterday.

thermostat now fitted and enjoying motoring at 90 degrees! [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## CurryMan

Great guide! My thermo stat is starting to play games and sits on 80 for ageeeeeeeeeeeeeeees before settling to 90 after a further 15mins.

What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?

Cheers


----------



## poder

CurryMan said:


> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?


After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994


----------



## CurryMan

poder said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?
> 
> 
> 
> After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994
Click to expand...

Cheers


----------



## Hadaak

I have done about 8k km with an 84° oil temp.
I will have to do the thermostat someday


----------



## jameslewisuk

Thank you for this guide, successfully replaced my thermostat and no more dropping temps 
The guide was very helpful!


----------



## poder

You are very welcome, thanks for the feedback


----------



## Hadaak

I installed a camera in the engine compartment to monitor a mysterious tiny oil leak and just found out that the fan started spinning as soon as I started driving the car. The TT had been sitting all day long and the engine was cold. The fan speed varied from time to time. oil temp and coolant temp was still under 50. The fan is turning even at low driving speeds. So my colder temps are probably do to a failing fan or failing coolant temp sensor rather than the thermostat ! Or is the fan spinning triggered by the wind only. It started running under 20kmh !!!


----------



## poder

On mine there are two fans. They will spin easily, so a little wind will probably turn them over.
Also, if you have A/C on, they will run while stationary because it requires air flow...


----------



## poder

I replaced the thermostat housing on my 2006 2.0 TFSI (BWA engine). On this model it's not possible to change the thermostat only, but rather the whole housing has to be replaced.
This is not an easy job! There's not much room to work in and even though you start out in a Zen-like state of mind with unlimited patience, you're going to end up needing all your favorite swear words :lol:

Sorry the pictures are not great quality  I did change camera underways which helped a bit, but it was quite clouded and dark...
Not all steps are required to be in the described order and likely I forgot to mention some minor things, so don't start this thinking it's a no-brainer. Most likely you'll have to adjust the procedure slightly along the way...










Unfortunately the unit is located in a tight place on the side of the engine pointing towards the front of the car.

*Tools*
You'll need mostly basic tools but, also a 5 mm XZN (triple square) bit.

*The procedure&#8230;*

To gain access to the thermostat housing we need to remove some components, one of which is the alternator. For this reason we need to disconnect the battery (negative) earth.

1) In the boot, use a 10mm socket to loosen the battery negative wire









2) Put it to a side and make sure it won't touch the battery pole.









3) Put a rag or similar in the catch mechanism on the tailgate so it can't close - no power means your remote doesn't open the boot anymore ;-)









*Working underneath the car*
4) Remove the under tray
5) Unclip and remove the tube between the intercooler and the fixed pipe on the right hand side of the car. This will ease access to drain the coolant.









6) Drain the coolant into a suitable container by removing the clip and pulling off the hose connecting to the radiator. You may want to put something behind to avoid coolant splashes.









*Working from the top of the engine bay*

7) Remove the engine upper cover / air filter.
8.) Pull up the carbon canister and put to a side.









9) Mark the W-belt so that you can mount it the same way round again.
10) Use a 16 mm spanner to loosen the tensioner and insert a 4 mm drill (or something similar) in the hole to lock it.









11) Remove the W-belt
12) Undo the three bolts and remove the tensioner (23 Nm)
13) Undo the two bolts holding the alternator (23 Nm)
14) Take off the alternator plug along with the electrical wire and its holder and remove it completely.









15) Loosen the clips and pull off the hoses on the front metal coolant pipe.
16) Unscrew the single screw and remove the front metal coolant pipe completely.









17) Loosen the clip and pull off the hose from the topmost pipe on the thermostat housing.
18) Remove the screw holding the metal pipe to the front of the thermostat housing.









19) Remove the bolt holding the pipe at the other end. This is hidden behind some wires and very hard to see!
At this point I had started to remove a few other nuts, bolts and plugs that probably weren't necessary, just to find this bolt!









20) Put the inner metal coolant pipe as far to the gearbox side as possible.
21) Unclip and push/pull down the coolant hose connected to the bottom of the thermostat housing. This may require tapping with a screwdriver and hammer - look at the new thermostat housing on how it connects and where to safely tap.









22) Unscrew the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place (15 Nm).
23) Put a rag under to catch any coolant left and pull out the thermostat housing.
24) Lubricate the O-ring on the new thermostat housing, using coolant.









25) Position the new housing in place. You may not be able to push it all the way in due to the friction of the new O-ring.
26) Put the two bolts back in and tighten them using just your fingers at first. If you have to pull the housing in using the bolts, be sure to switch between the two, to make many small increments so it goes straight in. 15 Nm torque.

27) Reassemble rest in reverse order.
28) Put back in the old coolant fluid or new as required. Top up as needed.
29) Reconnect the battery negative earth.
30) Perform window reset procedure.
31) Enter code for radio if needed (it wasn't for my RNS-E)

Finally verify that the working temperature of the engine is correct at about 90 degrees celcius.

Result 8)


----------



## qooqiiu

Just what the MK2 forum needs!

Well done


----------



## TT-driver

Well done! Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.

Two questions/remarks: in de Audi Service manual, it is written that they use a special pump to let the engine suck in new coolant. Otherwise air might get trapped in the coolant circuit.

Somewhere else I read something about putting back the alternator. Apparently it comes with some sort of special gizmo that should hold it in place. If that was done wrong, the alternator might work itself loose.

Did you turn the heater to max before draining the coolant?

Any comments on these three points?

By the way: I wouldn't reuse any old coolant. It's cheap and better not risk getting any dirt into the system. Fresh coolant also means fresh protection additives.


----------



## poder

Thank you for your comments

You don't need any special (vacuum?) pump to do this, just refill coolant fluid very slowly to prevent air getting trapped in the system. There might be a little still, so top up after driving a few miles.

I'm not sure about the gizmo you mention. The alternator is bolted on with two bolts through some bushes. Make sure the bushes have not seized when you tighten the bolts or, if they come loose later, the bolts will effectively not be tight. Tap the bolts on the end of the head with a hammer once they are loosened a round or two, that will do it.

I changed the coolant last year ago when I did the cambelt and coolant pump, so I reused the coolant. I see no problem with this as long as you know it's fresh and the right mixture.
I did not turn the heater to max, as I didn't need all the coolant to leave the system and frankly I'm not convinced that it makes a difference on a modern(ish) system like this anyway :wink:


----------



## hot foot

Excellent guide, look forward to using it in the next week or two to do mine, thank you!


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.


That point has been in the How-To on disconnecting the battery for some time.


----------



## brittan

And poder's excellent How-To has now been added to the KB.


----------



## TT-driver

@ brittan: that's where this how to belongs 

I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:

@ poder: indeed it's those bushes I was referring to. Thanks for sharing how to handle those.


----------



## Krs8

Fantastic just what I needed. Just getting prepared to source a garage to fix for me...

Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:


I agree: hence highlighting where else that important precaution is noted. 
Nobody wants to crawl over the seats to try out the hatch manual release cable!



Krs8 said:


> Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


Yes, housing and thermostat is one part.


----------



## Steve R

Thanks Poder, a good how to, will probably be needing this in the future, but not to soon I hope.


----------



## efunc

I needed it yesterday.

thermostat now fitted and enjoying motoring at 90 degrees! [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## CurryMan

Great guide! My thermo stat is starting to play games and sits on 80 for ageeeeeeeeeeeeeeees before settling to 90 after a further 15mins.

What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?

Cheers


----------



## poder

CurryMan said:


> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?


After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994


----------



## CurryMan

poder said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?
> 
> 
> 
> After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994
Click to expand...

Cheers


----------



## Hadaak

I have done about 8k km with an 84° oil temp.
I will have to do the thermostat someday


----------



## jameslewisuk

Thank you for this guide, successfully replaced my thermostat and no more dropping temps 
The guide was very helpful!


----------



## poder

You are very welcome, thanks for the feedback


----------



## Hadaak

I installed a camera in the engine compartment to monitor a mysterious tiny oil leak and just found out that the fan started spinning as soon as I started driving the car. The TT had been sitting all day long and the engine was cold. The fan speed varied from time to time. oil temp and coolant temp was still under 50. The fan is turning even at low driving speeds. So my colder temps are probably do to a failing fan or failing coolant temp sensor rather than the thermostat ! Or is the fan spinning triggered by the wind only. It started running under 20kmh !!!


----------



## poder

On mine there are two fans. They will spin easily, so a little wind will probably turn them over.
Also, if you have A/C on, they will run while stationary because it requires air flow...


----------



## poder

I replaced the thermostat housing on my 2006 2.0 TFSI (BWA engine). On this model it's not possible to change the thermostat only, but rather the whole housing has to be replaced.
This is not an easy job! There's not much room to work in and even though you start out in a Zen-like state of mind with unlimited patience, you're going to end up needing all your favorite swear words :lol:

Sorry the pictures are not great quality  I did change camera underways which helped a bit, but it was quite clouded and dark...
Not all steps are required to be in the described order and likely I forgot to mention some minor things, so don't start this thinking it's a no-brainer. Most likely you'll have to adjust the procedure slightly along the way...










Unfortunately the unit is located in a tight place on the side of the engine pointing towards the front of the car.

*Tools*
You'll need mostly basic tools but, also a 5 mm XZN (triple square) bit.

*The procedure&#8230;*

To gain access to the thermostat housing we need to remove some components, one of which is the alternator. For this reason we need to disconnect the battery (negative) earth.

1) In the boot, use a 10mm socket to loosen the battery negative wire









2) Put it to a side and make sure it won't touch the battery pole.









3) Put a rag or similar in the catch mechanism on the tailgate so it can't close - no power means your remote doesn't open the boot anymore ;-)









*Working underneath the car*
4) Remove the under tray
5) Unclip and remove the tube between the intercooler and the fixed pipe on the right hand side of the car. This will ease access to drain the coolant.









6) Drain the coolant into a suitable container by removing the clip and pulling off the hose connecting to the radiator. You may want to put something behind to avoid coolant splashes.









*Working from the top of the engine bay*

7) Remove the engine upper cover / air filter.
8.) Pull up the carbon canister and put to a side.









9) Mark the W-belt so that you can mount it the same way round again.
10) Use a 16 mm spanner to loosen the tensioner and insert a 4 mm drill (or something similar) in the hole to lock it.









11) Remove the W-belt
12) Undo the three bolts and remove the tensioner (23 Nm)
13) Undo the two bolts holding the alternator (23 Nm)
14) Take off the alternator plug along with the electrical wire and its holder and remove it completely.









15) Loosen the clips and pull off the hoses on the front metal coolant pipe.
16) Unscrew the single screw and remove the front metal coolant pipe completely.









17) Loosen the clip and pull off the hose from the topmost pipe on the thermostat housing.
18) Remove the screw holding the metal pipe to the front of the thermostat housing.









19) Remove the bolt holding the pipe at the other end. This is hidden behind some wires and very hard to see!
At this point I had started to remove a few other nuts, bolts and plugs that probably weren't necessary, just to find this bolt!









20) Put the inner metal coolant pipe as far to the gearbox side as possible.
21) Unclip and push/pull down the coolant hose connected to the bottom of the thermostat housing. This may require tapping with a screwdriver and hammer - look at the new thermostat housing on how it connects and where to safely tap.









22) Unscrew the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place (15 Nm).
23) Put a rag under to catch any coolant left and pull out the thermostat housing.
24) Lubricate the O-ring on the new thermostat housing, using coolant.









25) Position the new housing in place. You may not be able to push it all the way in due to the friction of the new O-ring.
26) Put the two bolts back in and tighten them using just your fingers at first. If you have to pull the housing in using the bolts, be sure to switch between the two, to make many small increments so it goes straight in. 15 Nm torque.

27) Reassemble rest in reverse order.
28) Put back in the old coolant fluid or new as required. Top up as needed.
29) Reconnect the battery negative earth.
30) Perform window reset procedure.
31) Enter code for radio if needed (it wasn't for my RNS-E)

Finally verify that the working temperature of the engine is correct at about 90 degrees celcius.

Result 8)


----------



## qooqiiu

Just what the MK2 forum needs!

Well done


----------



## TT-driver

Well done! Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.

Two questions/remarks: in de Audi Service manual, it is written that they use a special pump to let the engine suck in new coolant. Otherwise air might get trapped in the coolant circuit.

Somewhere else I read something about putting back the alternator. Apparently it comes with some sort of special gizmo that should hold it in place. If that was done wrong, the alternator might work itself loose.

Did you turn the heater to max before draining the coolant?

Any comments on these three points?

By the way: I wouldn't reuse any old coolant. It's cheap and better not risk getting any dirt into the system. Fresh coolant also means fresh protection additives.


----------



## poder

Thank you for your comments

You don't need any special (vacuum?) pump to do this, just refill coolant fluid very slowly to prevent air getting trapped in the system. There might be a little still, so top up after driving a few miles.

I'm not sure about the gizmo you mention. The alternator is bolted on with two bolts through some bushes. Make sure the bushes have not seized when you tighten the bolts or, if they come loose later, the bolts will effectively not be tight. Tap the bolts on the end of the head with a hammer once they are loosened a round or two, that will do it.

I changed the coolant last year ago when I did the cambelt and coolant pump, so I reused the coolant. I see no problem with this as long as you know it's fresh and the right mixture.
I did not turn the heater to max, as I didn't need all the coolant to leave the system and frankly I'm not convinced that it makes a difference on a modern(ish) system like this anyway :wink:


----------



## hot foot

Excellent guide, look forward to using it in the next week or two to do mine, thank you!


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> Very smart move to avoid the boot lid from falling into the lock.


That point has been in the How-To on disconnecting the battery for some time.


----------



## brittan

And poder's excellent How-To has now been added to the KB.


----------



## TT-driver

@ brittan: that's where this how to belongs 

I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:

@ poder: indeed it's those bushes I was referring to. Thanks for sharing how to handle those.


----------



## Krs8

Fantastic just what I needed. Just getting prepared to source a garage to fix for me...

Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


----------



## brittan

TT-driver said:


> I'm well aware that this was mentioned elsewhere too, however, one can't be warned enough in order to prevent that Homer Simpson Doh moment... :lol:


I agree: hence highlighting where else that important precaution is noted. 
Nobody wants to crawl over the seats to try out the hatch manual release cable!



Krs8 said:


> Can anyone answer, is the thermostat housed inside this as one part? i.e. two separate parts don't need to be ordered?


Yes, housing and thermostat is one part.


----------



## Steve R

Thanks Poder, a good how to, will probably be needing this in the future, but not to soon I hope.


----------



## efunc

I needed it yesterday.

thermostat now fitted and enjoying motoring at 90 degrees! [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## CurryMan

Great guide! My thermo stat is starting to play games and sits on 80 for ageeeeeeeeeeeeeeees before settling to 90 after a further 15mins.

What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?

Cheers


----------



## poder

CurryMan said:


> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?


After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994


----------



## CurryMan

poder said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's the '30) Perform window reset procedure' all about and how do you do that?
> 
> 
> 
> After having disconnected the battery, it may be necessary to perform a window reset. A description can be found here:
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1504721&p=7960994&hilit=window+reset#p7960994
Click to expand...

Cheers


----------



## Hadaak

I have done about 8k km with an 84° oil temp.
I will have to do the thermostat someday


----------



## jameslewisuk

Thank you for this guide, successfully replaced my thermostat and no more dropping temps 
The guide was very helpful!


----------



## poder

You are very welcome, thanks for the feedback


----------



## Hadaak

I installed a camera in the engine compartment to monitor a mysterious tiny oil leak and just found out that the fan started spinning as soon as I started driving the car. The TT had been sitting all day long and the engine was cold. The fan speed varied from time to time. oil temp and coolant temp was still under 50. The fan is turning even at low driving speeds. So my colder temps are probably do to a failing fan or failing coolant temp sensor rather than the thermostat ! Or is the fan spinning triggered by the wind only. It started running under 20kmh !!!


----------



## poder

On mine there are two fans. They will spin easily, so a little wind will probably turn them over.
Also, if you have A/C on, they will run while stationary because it requires air flow...


----------

