# Open bonnet without lever



## alexharvey52 (Apr 26, 2016)

Hi All,

I am going on a long road trip tomorrow in the TTS so today I thought I would check all the oil, coolant and top up the whiper fluid as that is really needed. However as I did it the bonnet release lever snaped off, I know this is a common fault so I will get this fixed once I am home from my trip.

For now I just need to open up the bonnet. Is there a way to do it without using the lever and for somebody who isn't a massive piston head?

Thanks,
Alex


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Alex, Can you get a pair of pliers on the cable which is attached to the broken lever ?
Hoggy.


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## alexharvey52 (Apr 26, 2016)

Manged to open it up. Took off the fuze box trim, and then a bit of the door trim and the whole thing is exposed (they both just pull off). Once off I got a pair of pliers and pushed on the lever and it opened


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## leon263 (Feb 12, 2007)

I'm pretty certain that this is the part number of the lever you require, 8J1823533C, but just check the rear of your broken one as there are a couple of variations. Readily available from e-bay at around £16 but I'm sure I paid around a tenner from TPS, Trade Parts Specialists, who are the parts arm of VAG. Fitting is simply a matter of pushing it in until it clicks into place once you get the remains of the old one out.


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

Very good photos.

Out of curiosity, 
1. Where does it break? 
2. What causes the stress to cause it to break? (I ask as my son's Corsa's cable broke, but that was because the release mechanism had all but seized.) 
3. Is there any preventative maintenance possible?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

GaryG said:


> Very good photos.
> 
> Out of curiosity,
> 1. Where does it break?
> ...


Hi, just a poor quality lever. Keeping the mechanism at bonnet lubed may help.
Hoggy.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ alexharvey52 - Great pictures! Any chance we could talk you into doing a write up on how you replace the handle? A nice step by step with pictures would be a great addition to the "How To" section with part numbers, etc.

Similar to problems with the top, this sounds like another "when" rather than "if" issue for Mk2 owners.


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## ldhxvs (Aug 18, 2016)

Good opportunity here for someone to make a nice mechanism from billeted aluminium


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## alexharvey52 (Apr 26, 2016)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ alexharvey52 - Great pictures! Any chance we could talk you into doing a write up on how you replace the handle? A nice step by step with pictures would be a great addition to the "How To" section with part numbers, etc.
> 
> Similar to problems with the top, this sounds like another "when" rather than "if" issue for Mk2 owners.


I will see what I can do


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Great that the bonnet can still be opened like this. Previously one or more members opened the bonnet by entering the engine bay through the wheel well.

Sometimes this is still necessary if the connector in the engine bay breaks open. The cable actually consists of 2 parts...

I never just pull the lever. I actually try to turn the lever by turning it around its pivot: Push the upper with my thumb while gently pulling with my fingers. This may put less stress on the lever. At least mine still works after 9 years and 11 months.


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

I have wondered if part of the problem is that the lever looks so substantial we are tempted to treat it as such, when in fact we have learned that the weakest point is actually hidden from view. Like TT-driver I always try to open the door wide and pull the lever at 90 degrees to its rotational axis. So far so good - two TTs and four years of ownership, no broken lever.
That'll have jinxed it, doh!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I do the same: support the upper part of the lever at the pivot point with my thumb and pull gently with the fingers. Certainly no sudden yank on the lever.

But I do have a spare lever and base in the TT cupboard; just in case.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

brittan said:


> But I do have a spare lever and base in the TT cupboard; just in case.


That is THE best insurance against breaking the lever.... having a spare one ready.


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## Dash (Oct 5, 2008)

When I heard about this problem I always assumed it was the lever just below the bonnet that uncatches it. I've been shutting it super gently to try and avoid wearing it.


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## Pedro768 (Jul 19, 2019)

Do we have a link to a thread for replacing this ? 
I have just used this to remove the trim.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Pretty sure there's one in the Knowledge Base (KB)....and here it is:

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1849287


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## Stiff (Jun 15, 2015)

Just as a reminder too, don't fall into the trap of buying a used (or new!) one off ebay for the over inflated prices circa £25. When mine went a year back or so, I got one from the local Audi dealership for £8 including VAT.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Two things: 
(1) Make sure you order RHD vs. LHD
(2) Check for which Lever version you have

The older ones "B" have a short, sharp point. The newer ones "C" have a longer, dull point. The "C" lever will NOT fit into a "B" bracket. If you look inside the handle, you'll see the part number followed by the revision number; either "B" or "C".

Most sites advertise 2007-2014, but they're selling the later "C" version. The older "B" lever is getting harder to find, so you may have to replace both the lever and bracket.

Be sure to read the post linked above -


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## Pedro768 (Jul 19, 2019)

Cheers guys 
This helps me so much. 
Already priced it at audi for £9


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