# Relentless 3" downpipe and sports cat and magnex cat back



## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Last night I got round to fitting my relentless dp sports cat and magnex cat back

















Here is my picture gallery/review of the items.

First of all was to take the old system off the car

















I had a ramp and a friend helping and managed to get everything up to the downpipe off in 30 minutes..

















This is showing the old stock cat in comparison to the new sports cat









Next we unbolted the downpipe from the turbo









Was a bit tight getting the old one out so we unbolted the subframe and the driveshaft for more movement.

This is the old stock downpipe next to the nice new relentless one









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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

The new one slotted in perfect and all bolt holes lined up perfect









Next was to bolt on the relentless sports cat








Which fitted perfectly.

We attached all sensors back on and then started on the cat back

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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Everything lined up perfectly with the sports cat, although the clamps provided with the magnex cat back was useless so have ordered nice new wide ones

Back section bolts straight on but we had to trim the heat shield so the pipework didn't vibrate as it was touching









And this is how she looked afterwards 









When i brought the downpipe and sports cat i was told it will help the flow and acceleration. 
Once taken on a short test drive afterwards I couldn't believe the results it gave me, it's pulls 10times better then before as where before it used to bog at lower revs but now it picks up so much earlier.

I would highly recommend this product to anyone interested in changing there system.

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## Gary.C.H (Jan 23, 2013)

nice write up! looks great, relentless dp is defo on my to do list !


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## nelmanners (Feb 1, 2012)

It looks really nice! How much did it cost if you don't mind me asking and where did you buy it from?

Cheers
Werner


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

Looks very nice 

Great write up but needs more info for the ones who don't know where to start when taking it off. :wink:

Another one added to the list of things to buy.


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

nelmanners said:


> It looks really nice! How much did it cost if you don't mind me asking and where did you buy it from?
> 
> Cheers
> Werner


Cheers, I got it from relentless eBay store in the states for around £300 I think it was

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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Kprincess said:


> Looks very nice
> 
> Great write up but needs more info for the ones who don't know where to start when taking it off. :wink:
> 
> Another one added to the list of things to buy.


I would do but the tools I used to remove it included a blow torch and a hammer  don't think many would have access to that.

It's pretty simple though just undo the rusted bolts and slide it from the rubbers

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## polowoof (Feb 15, 2012)

Nice! I have actually been thinking doing this....but Am not sure if I can manage it myself. Being in London makes it quite impossible to have a garage so I would have to do it outdoor with trolley jack and bottle jack. Do u think this job is possible jus on a trolley jack? I amjust doing the sports cat and dp as I already hv the cat back. Also would u be able to list the tools needed? I t would be gd to know so that I can prepare for it.

In terms of performance, do you feel that the torque in the early rev became stronger?or came much earlier?
atm that pull feeling from the turbo, it only comes in just before 3k.

Are you planning onto doing the getting a stage 2 remap for the set up?

Nice Write up again!


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## Guzi (Jun 13, 2010)

looks mint!


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## mark_1423 (Dec 13, 2011)

Looks easy! Lol my same downpipe and de cat turned up other day, tried fitting it today no joy! Only had stands and couldn't turn one of the bolts due to no room, reading your post makes me want to fit it badly now lol, wanted to do it my self, but I think I'm beat on this one. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

R222CEC said:


> Kprincess said:
> 
> 
> > Looks very nice
> ...


Access to a garage ramp and equipment do help 

Don't know about easy as the sub frame looks like its off so a hell of a lot easier to get too. :wink:

I'm guessing the blow torch is not for cutting?.

Rusted bolts on the cat pipe looks like a real pain as you can't even see the bolts :lol:

Doesn't look like a DIY job for most.


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

polowoof said:


> Nice! I have actually been thinking doing this....but Am not sure if I can manage it myself. Being in London makes it quite impossible to have a garage so I would have to do it outdoor with trolley jack and bottle jack. Do u think this job is possible jus on a trolley jack? I amjust doing the sports cat and dp as I already hv the cat back. Also would u be able to list the tools needed? I t would be gd to know so that I can prepare for it.
> 
> In terms of performance, do you feel that the torque in the early rev became stronger?or came much earlier?
> atm that pull feeling from the turbo, it only comes in just before 3k.
> ...


It probably is possible but I would imagine a pain in the arse as you havnt got room while laying under it, as for tools wouldn't need any specialist ones although I found using short spammers for the turbo bolts helps.

As for performance before I fitted my tt was useless in the lower revs but has seemed to pick up and be more responsive before you hit 3k

I've got s2000 k&n, 3" turbo intake pipe to go on and thinking about injectors too

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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

mark_1423 said:


> Looks easy! Lol my same downpipe and de cat turned up other day, tried fitting it today no joy! Only had stands and couldn't turn one of the bolts due to no room, reading your post makes me want to fit it badly now lol, wanted to do it my self, but I think I'm beat on this one. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Was it the turbo bolts you had problems with getting too? If so I'd recommend short spanners as its a lot easier to get to them

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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Kprincess said:


> R222CEC said:
> 
> 
> > Kprincess said:
> ...


Yeah the subframe was removed as mentioned as there was no way of getting to it.

Blow torch was to get the old system off nice and quickly

The job can be done DIY if your mechanically minded with decent selection of tools and patient

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## Riggasurf (Apr 22, 2012)

Have you got a link to the supplier that sent your as I am not having much luck. Cheers


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## TT Boycie (Sep 27, 2009)

eBay mate


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

Kprincess wrote:
R222CEC wrote:
Kprincess wrote:
Looks very nice

Great write up but needs more info for the ones who don't know where to start when taking it off.

Another one added to the list of things to buy.

I would do but the tools I used to remove it included a blow torch and a hammer don't think many would have access to that.

It's pretty simple though just undo the rusted bolts and slide it from the rubbers

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Access to a garage ramp and equipment do help

Don't know about easy as the sub frame looks like its off so a hell of a lot easier to get too.

I'm guessing the blow torch is not for cutting?.

Rusted bolts on the cat pipe looks like a real pain as you can't even see the bolts

Doesn't look like a DIY job for most.

Yeah the subframe was removed as mentioned as there was no way of getting to it.

Blow torch was to get the old system off nice and quickly

The job can be done DIY if your mechanically minded with decent selection of tools and patient

mark_1423 tried but failed as he doesn't have the best of height to accomplish the job and he struggled with the bolts too.
He had no idea what he was getting into for sure 

I've seen garages rip these things out with ease but they has a ramp and air tool to do the job with in the space of hours.

Good luck to all who do manage to get it done without having to spend £££'s on labour costs.


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## mark_1423 (Dec 13, 2011)

mark_1423 tried but failed as he doesn't have the best of height to accomplish the job and he struggled with the bolts too.
He had no idea what he was getting into for sure 

I've seen garages rip these things out with ease but they has a ramp and air tool to do the job with in the space of hours.

Good luck to all who do manage to get it done without having to spend £££'s on labour costs. [/quote]

I was following the guide on the forum! Going to give it a stab agin this week. Came on here for advice not your petty comments


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

mark_1423 said:


> mark_1423 tried but failed as he doesn't have the best of height to accomplish the job and he struggled with the bolts too.
> He had no idea what he was getting into for sure
> 
> I've seen garages rip these things out with ease but they had a ramp and air tool to do the job with in the space of hours.
> ...


I was following the guide on the forum! Going to give it a stab agin this week. Came on here for advice not your petty comments[/quote]

Mark, I wasn't being rude in any manner or form so please don't take it to heart 

Kal


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Here's the item number on ebay: 271032901726
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271032901726?ss ... 1587.l2649

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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

R222CEC said:


> Here's the item number on ebay: 271032901726
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271032901726?ss ... 1587.l2649
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How much did you pay customs ?


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

I havn't paid anything at customs

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## andrey92 (Apr 14, 2012)

looks good! get rid of that centre box for MOAR LOUD! :twisted: these are brilliant for the money had mine on for about 8k now


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

andrey92 said:


> looks good! get rid of that centre box for MOAR LOUD! :twisted: these are brilliant for the money had mine on for about 8k now


Did yours get noticeably louder over time before you took out the mid box?

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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

R222CEC said:


> I havn't paid anything at customs
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I ordered something from the US and got slapped with a £45 custom charge :?

Item cost me $211 plus $41 shipping... very strange


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## andrey92 (Apr 14, 2012)

R222CEC said:


> andrey92 said:
> 
> 
> > looks good! get rid of that centre box for MOAR LOUD! :twisted: these are brilliant for the money had mine on for about 8k now
> ...


sorry i meant i have relentless downpipe  aha i had a milltek resonated exhaust and it was quiet so after a day of owning i sold it and got a custom loud exhaust from powerflow  but my milltek was alot quieter than my mates non-resonated milltek on his polo gti...basically what im trying to say is that without the centre box it should get quite alot louder


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## andrey92 (Apr 14, 2012)

Kprincess said:


> R222CEC said:
> 
> 
> > I havn't paid anything at customs
> ...


if you contact the seller of the relentless downpipes on ebay they confirm that there wont be any charge at customs


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## Kprincess (Aug 19, 2012)

andrey92 said:


> Kprincess said:
> 
> 
> > R222CEC said:
> ...


Cheers


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## STUT (May 14, 2012)

Any Videos of yours in action so we can hear the tone? Good work getting it done big your self!


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Once it stops raining ill stick the GoPro on the back and go for a blast

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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Just to anyone interested, had it MOT'd and it will NOT pass

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## aarond (Apr 12, 2013)

Witt the sportscat?


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## Shinigami (Feb 21, 2013)

R222CEC said:


> Just to anyone interested, had it MOT'd and it will NOT pass
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Unfortunately you're not the first one complaining that issue with the relentless sportscat...I believe some other members had to go for a blast so that the cat was melting hot for it to get through the emission testing...


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Yeah with the new sports cat (v3) it wouldn't pass after bring promised it would by them!

I tried the old trick of giving it a blast before hand to get it hot but still no good, he tested it has I pulled in the workshop too

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## rodhotter (Dec 30, 2011)

nice write up! i installed a borla catback soon after purchase, very easy even only on jackstands. kroil is the best penetrant hands down IMO. i am concerned about removing the subframe and would appreciate more info on that, are the bolts stretch or regular reusable ones, seen an alignment recommended after subframe reinstall, thanks in advance, this is the best TT forum!!


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## CRU57Y (Feb 3, 2013)

<<I found using short spammers for the turbo bolts helps.>>

Good to see that dwarf con-artists have other uses.


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

Is there a guide on dropping the sub frame ect to install this downpipe? Also is it possible to cut the old one out and install without dropping the sub frame?


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

R222CEC said:


> Yeah with the new sports cat (v3) it wouldn't pass after bring promised it would by them!
> 
> I tried the old trick of giving it a blast before hand to get it hot but still no good, he tested it has I pulled in the workshop too
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi mate, did you stick with this downpipe and sports cat and find a "friendly" MOT station? Just thinking if you still have it on how are you finding the quality of the downpipe as i'm considering a relentless downpipe and decat.



crazyazz said:


> Is there a guide on dropping the sub frame ect to install this downpipe? Also is it possible to cut the old one out and install without dropping the sub frame?


I have no idea on a guide, but if you have to cut the old one out, i wouldn't think your gunna be able to get the new one in in 1 piece!


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

A few people have fitted them by cutting the old one out and the new one will go in without dropping the subframe. This is how I plan on doing mine Friday

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

barb said:


> A few people have fitted them by cutting the old one out and the new one will go in without dropping the subframe. This is how I plan on doing mine Friday
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


 I'd have thought that would be a pain, isnt the new one a bigger bore?


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

barb said:


> A few people have fitted them by cutting the old one out and the new one will go in without dropping the subframe. This is how I plan on doing mine Friday
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


If at all possible take some pics of your install, look forward to reading about how you get on


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

I will ask the garage doing it if they will. Im due to be working whilst there doing it but may get down earlier to take some pics

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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

barb said:


> I will ask the garage doing it if they will. Im due to be working whilst there doing it but may get down earlier to take some pics
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Excellent, keen to hear how they go without dropping the subframe.


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

barb said:


> I will ask the garage doing it if they will. Im due to be working whilst there doing it but may get down earlier to take some pics
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


How did you get on with the Dp install mate?


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

crazyazz said:


> barb said:
> 
> 
> > I will ask the garage doing it if they will. Im due to be working whilst there doing it but may get down earlier to take some pics
> ...


Can honestly say it's the worst job I've ever done on a car! Removed shaft to get at the downpipe to cut it with a grinder but could only cut half of it so the rest was done with a junior hacksaw. Then half of it come out the bottom and the other half come past the shaft. The new one wouldn't go it so it was either get the prop off which wouldn't come or drop the subframe about an inch or so which is what we did once in it was easy. Need to adjust slightly as it's touching bulkhead. When you do yours line it up and tighten before you fit the exhaust rubber

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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

R222CEC, excellent rite up ,,, so it has been on 6 months now ,, how are you finding it , are you happy with it ,,,,, I have been considering the system myself and also including the manifold , but have bEen reading a few bad reports on the relentless , like fit up and durability of the ( thin wall and grade of stainless ) pipes on the V3 , I am a bit sceptical that you can get a quality system so cheaply,, any info apreciated . Rod


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

So you unbolt one side of the subframe? And pull out a drive shaft?


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

crazyazz said:


> So you unbolt one side of the subframe? And pull out a drive shaft?


No you take driveshaft out so you can cut the old one out. And drop all 4 bolts out of subframe and pull down slightly to get new one in. Don't drop too far as the rack etc is attached to it

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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

barb said:


> crazyazz said:
> 
> 
> > So you unbolt one side of the subframe? And pull out a drive shaft?
> ...


ah ok , so the old wont pull out with the subframe dropped? Must be cut up


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

I dropped the subframe after I got the old one out. But I don't think it will tbh worth a try though as you have to drop it slightly to be the new one in. Are you going to be using the relentless downpipe?

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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

barb said:


> I dropped the subframe after I got the old one out. But I don't think it will tbh worth a try though as you have to drop it slightly to be the new one in. Are you going to be using the relentless downpipe?
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Yes, I have ordered it and waiting for it to arrive


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

crazyazz said:


> barb said:
> 
> 
> > I dropped the subframe after I got the old one out. But I don't think it will tbh worth a try though as you have to drop it slightly to be the new one in. Are you going to be using the relentless downpipe?
> ...


Okay what I found with mine, may be different with yours but mine was touching the bulkhead on the top right hand side if your looking at it from underneath, this may vary from car to car as I believe there is some adjustment in the engine mount. With the downpipe rubber connected it pulled it into the bulk head. In the end I removed the rubber and cut the hanger bracket off the downpipe and it was far enough away to not touch the bulkhead, it does knock slightly when changing gear sometimes this should be sorted when I fit my pollybush engine mount. Another way you could solve it if you do run into this problem is put a dent in the downpipe/bulkhead to give you a little clearence. So fit and tighten the downpipe before fitting the rubber and if it does come too close use one of the methods above

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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

where did you buy the downpipe?
My flexi part is broken ;/ Anyone know the "inch of the downpipe so i maybe can get someone to weld
a new in.


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

Alx89 said:


> where did you buy the downpipe?
> My flexi part is broken ;/ Anyone know the "inch of the downpipe so i maybe can get someone to weld
> a new in.


Facebook page is called "relentless. K04 parts and upgrades for lcr s3" and it's 3" bud

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## CR51GYR-TT240 (Mar 30, 2013)

Looking good mate, I'm having my blueflame DP fitted on the 14th and can't wait. You may be able to help me here, can you change the anti roll bar without dropping subframe? As in isit accessible to change without removing anything else? Cheers mate.

Bet you want a nice remap now?


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

CR51GYR-TT240 said:


> Looking good mate, I'm having my blueflame DP fitted on the 14th and can't wait. You may be able to help me here, can you change the anti roll bar without dropping subframe? As in isit accessible to change without removing anything else? Cheers mate.
> 
> Bet you want a nice remap now?


As far as I'm aware you have to drop the subframe, looks very tight up there. It's on a stage one at the mo. Just done a fmic too and it's booked it with [email protected] 5 on the 14 after I come back from my holiday so can't wait

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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

Alx89 said:


> where did you buy the downpipe?
> My flexi part is broken ;/ Anyone know the "inch of the downpipe so i maybe can get someone to weld
> a new in.[/quo
> 
> If no one will post the dia it does not matter , If you find someone to weld it than you can measure it when you get it off ,, it is just the same / as easy to weld a 2 1/2 " or 3" pipe


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

I posted the diameter it's 3"!

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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

barb said:


> I posted the diameter it's 3"!
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


Beg pardon mate ,,,,,,,,,,,but I thot he was looking for std size


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

barb said:


> I posted the diameter it's 3"!
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


I assume he means the standard one mate!


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

My bad thought he was on about the relentless

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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Well i managed to fit mine this weekend but what an absolute pita of a job [smiley=bigcry.gif] I have got it fitted to the car but have run in to a few issues :roll: it is currently blowing rather badly at the join for the rest of the exhaust system.. the std clamp on the car is for a 2.5" system but after measuring the decat at the tapered down point it is measuring 2.42" :roll: even after tightening the clamp down fully there is still movement. Will be going to an exhaust place and see if they have a clamp that fits , the std one fits my blueflame exhaust perfectly :roll: secondly it is banging about like hell on something, i personally think its the bracket as it is sitting very close to the subframe at a certain point ... i already have a yellow bush fitted so it is not that, it also looks pretty clear when passing through the tunnel.. anyone else have any similar problems ?

The only pics i bothered to take as was sooo busy [smiley=bigcry.gif] 









Tight isn't the word


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

Fook me mate,, you have been busy !!,, just a bit shoogling left now...


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

It will be knocking on the bulkhead like mine I suspect, I had to remove the rubber hanger and cut the bracket off the downpipe. Then Slacken the bolts off and adjust it down until it clears bulk head

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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

I also ordered a new clamp off eBay for a few quid. The standard is 65mm diameter the new one I got is 63.5-66

Link 
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1203582591

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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

i think mine is 100% bracket banging on the subframe , are you running without the bracket ? i think the bracket may need bending or something along those lines to pull it back some, the actual downpipe seems to clear everything as far as i can tell...

a few pics i just took in the dark :lol:

seems to be enough room here..

















and then we get to the bracket...









its not actually touching when stationary but is extremely close at about 2mm from metal to metal :roll:


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Few more bracket pics, just been out for a drive again and it does sound like it coming from that area :roll: on a side note when i did put my foot down it sounded very nice up the top of the rev range from what i could tell over the blowing sound and defiantly pulls a lot stronger than before, just need these few issues sorting and should be good


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

Looks like a right nightmare [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## barb (Jul 1, 2013)

Mine was definitely knocking/touching on the bulkhead, if you look up the downpipe from underneath on the right hand top Sid you will see where it's close. I cut that bracket off too so that wouldn't knock as I removed the rubber

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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

Jay-225 said:


> Well i managed to fit mine this weekend but what an absolute pita of a job [smiley=bigcry.gif] I have got it fitted to the car but have run in to a few issues :roll: it is currently blowing rather badly at the join for the rest of the exhaust system.. the std clamp on the car is for a 2.5" system but after measuring the decat at the tapered down point it is measuring 2.42" :roll: even after tightening the clamp down fully there is still movement. Will be going to an exhaust place and see if they have a clamp that fits , the std one fits my blueflame exhaust perfectly :roll: secondly it is banging about like hell on something, i personally think its the bracket as it is sitting very close to the subframe at a certain point ... i already have a yellow bush fitted so it is not that, it also looks pretty clear when passing through the tunnel.. anyone else have any similar problems ?
> 
> The only pics i bothered to take as was sooo busy [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> ...


How did you manage to take off your downpipe? my screws are rusty as shitt, did u just cut the nuts?


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

crazyazz said:


> Looks like a right nightmare [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Yep pretty much sums it up and its not finished yet :roll:



barb said:


> Mine was definitely knocking/touching on the bulkhead, if you look up the downpipe from underneath on the right hand top Sid you will see where it's close. I cut that bracket off too so that wouldn't knock as I removed the rubber
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


I had the car up on a lift today for a good 30mins and know the point you are on about, although it is close at that point i do have a small bit of room about 10mm+ between the downpipe and heatshild for the transmission tunnel and that continues around the pipe clearing the subframe and steering rack ok... as i mentioned above the bracket is very close but not touching although i am sure it is this causing the knocking i am getting. one thing i found strange is the whole exhaust system seems pretty stiff and doesn't seem to have hardly any movement in while trying the shake it about when under the car... i was trying to make it knock to see where it was coming from but had no luck.

I also spoke to an exhaust place and booked the car in as i want them to cut off the bracket and move it back and spoke to them about the blowing issue, they said they normally weld a new bit of pipe on to the decat and join that to the rest of the exhaust as that way it is only 1 join and less chance of blowing... i may get them to cut the whole tapered bit of and have it 3" straight through to the blueflame but that will mean cutting off the tapered section on the blueflame as it also goes down to 2.5" ( a true 2.5" unlike the relentless :roll: ) will have a think on what i want to do.



Alx89 said:


> How did you manage to take off your downpipe? my screws are rusty as shitt, did u just cut the nuts?


No cutting here my friend :lol:

I used a ratchet with lots of extensions and a bendy bit , also used a swan neck spanner. The nuts actually came off pretty easy i thought... i was expecting them to be solid but they were fine. My turbo was rebuilt in 2010 so probably due to that...


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## R222CEC (Jun 22, 2012)

Sorry for late reply been on holiday

It's sounds good but want to decat it as its not loud enough when giving it some.

Quality wise still looks fine when I was under it doing coilovers

As for the anti roll bar I'm striping it all down over the weekend hopefully to do r32 roll bar power flex bushes for it and also for the wishbones and front top mounts all power flex and know for a fact subframes needs to come off

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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

Alx89 said:


> How did you manage to take off your downpipe? my screws are rusty as shitt, did u just cut the nuts?


No cutting here my friend :lol:

I used a ratchet with lots of extensions and a bendy bit , also used a swan neck spanner. The nuts actually came off pretty easy i thought... i was expecting them to be solid but they were fine. My turbo was rebuilt in 2010 so probably due to that...[/quote]

But, isnt the downpipe to long to get out when the car is only jacked up?!


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

with the drive shaft removed there was enough room to move it about and get it out, steering rack had to be pulled down a little bit extra but it was fine... people probably cut them to make the job easier as i imagine with it cut in bits getting to the nuts would be a piece of piss but i like a challenge :?


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

Jay-225 said:


> with the drive shaft removed there was enough room to move it about and get it out, steering rack had to be pulled down a little bit extra but it was fine... people probably cut them to make the job easier as i imagine with it cut in bits getting to the nuts would be a piece of piss but i like a challenge :?


if i lift the car up in a workshop, do i still need to take off all that?


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Alx89 said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> > with the drive shaft removed there was enough room to move it about and get it out, steering rack had to be pulled down a little bit extra but it was fine... people probably cut them to make the job easier as i imagine with it cut in bits getting to the nuts would be a piece of piss but i like a challenge :?
> ...


No but it makes it a dammed sight easier. Read a post where someone was removing the turbo, obviously this ment the dp also. They just lowered the subframe, I'd imagine this is slightly less work.


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

So i now took off the screws on the turbo/1 is broken(what to do).
and my backpipe is lose. I have a problem taking the cat off the downpipe because the screws are so damn rusty. any tips?
cant i take the dp off with the cat in one piece?

help me!


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

you can grind the nuts off and replace with new ones


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Alx89 said:


> So i now took off the screws on the turbo/1 is broken(what to do).
> and my backpipe is lose. I have a problem taking the cat off the downpipe because the screws are so damn rusty. any tips?
> cant i take the dp off with the cat in one piece?
> 
> help me!


When you say broken, what exactly do you mean ? has it snapped the stud in the turbo ? 
Backpipe? you mean downpipe is loose now the above bit is broken ?
The nuts and bolts looked rusty as hell on mine but came off easily...
you will be above to remove them together but will need to remove more stuff ...

Take off the subframe if you haven't done so already , disconnect the steering rack from the column and remove the offside driveshaft. you should then have enough room to remove the cat and downpipe in one piece.


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

Jay-225 said:


> Alx89 said:
> 
> 
> > So i now took off the screws on the turbo/1 is broken(what to do).
> ...


Its off, i lowered the subframe abit and pewpew it came off in 1big piece. the flexi part was totaly broken off loal.

So i got 1screw/part sitting back in the turbo ;/ it was so freekin rusty! Audi changed turbo on the car in 2006 i guess they did a BAD job. i saw alot of "damage" marks after them been there on the topedowall (screwmarks) but anyway, what do i do now with the bolt stuck in the turboow.....
And where can i get a fitted flexipart

best regards: the new audi tt noobAlx89


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

you can take the turbo off , and weld a bigger nut over the top of the stump and turn that off


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

roddy said:


> you can take the turbo off , and weld a bigger nut over the top of the stump and turn that off


is it easy to take the turbo off on these cars?
i know on newer audi there is alot of shitt you need to do and change if you even look at the turbo


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Has it left enough to use a set of mole grips on ? if so undo the rest of the stud from the turbo and replace with new which cost a couple of quid from Audi ..

are you fitting a 3" downpipe now or going to fit another standard downpipe ?


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

Jay-225 said:


> Has it left enough to use a set of mole grips on ? if so undo the rest of the stud from the turbo and replace with new which cost a couple of quid from Audi ..
> 
> are you fitting a 3" downpipe now or going to fit another standard downpipe ?


I was going to just repair the broken flexipart for now, and maybe replace it later.
i dont know if the relentless sport exhaust is with papers n stuff. In my country you dont get your car passed in controll if you dont have papers on what you changed...

There it little left from the bolt, i sprayed it with some rustoff and let it cuddle there for a while before i fuk it up more :/
whats an molegrip. grip wrench?


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

grip wrench yes, i am asuming that you cant get it to turn at all,, if you can get a good grip on it then you can try heating it and then turn , be careful not to do any damage with heating gear, a wet towel , or similar, to cover everything


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## Jay-225 (Mar 7, 2012)

Ok bit of an update on mine, i was able to heat the bracket up enough to bend it away from subframe which has done the trick and stopped all knocking from it hitting the subframe.. now silent as a mouse concerning that part  was also able to seal the downpipe with some exhaust paste, i am not normally a fan of the stuff but it certainly has done the trick and stopped it blowing  Sounds absolutely stunning now, love how you can hear the turbo spool up so much more and it certainly pulls a lot harder now as well  ....

Unfortunately decatting the car has highlighted that the oil seal in the turbo is knackered as i now get blue smoke on idle once car gets up to temp, is fine when driving just when sitting in traffic etc... i am going to check a few bits on the pcv system but am pretty sure it is the turbo oil seal ( i think exh side has gone ) :roll:

Not to be put off i went out and done some logs to see what difference it actually makes..

with just a blueflame fitted i logged the car and got a max of :

179.06 g/s ( 223bhp ) 
0.8-0.9bar boost

and with the 3" downpipe and decat fitted

187.06 g/s ( 234bhp )
1.0-1.07 bar boost

This tells a very small part of the story but it has picked up 11bhp and a small bit of boost which holds 1.0+bar until the red line not tailing off...


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## crazyazz (Sep 26, 2012)

Nice info there Jay 225, thanks man. I have my 3" DP and 200 cel car sitting here to go. Also a suspension.com dog mount. Just bought a 2000 Nogaro Blue B5 S4 also [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## Alx89 (Sep 22, 2013)

I just ordered my sportcat and downpipe, i tryed to replace
The flexipart on the old downpipe but with no sucess.
There is not enough room to it as its abit diffrent angeled
Then original due to flexipart just a 0,00000001" diffrent.
Will be nice to get the new exhaust on the car!
Sadly i have to do the same job with disamble the 
Old one again :/


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