# HOWTO: Wing Mirror Replacement v2



## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

Changes: Minor text changes, and a couple of additional photos, but these took the original post over the 15,000 character limit so I've created this topic to split it into chunks for easier future editing.

Original topic here: 
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=166108

Here's my guide on replacing wing mirror housings. Obviously you undertake any job on your car at your own risk. This is just a guide. If you misinterpret it, or if your car just happens to be a pain in the neck, damage can occur. At all stages think carefully about what you're doing and what might happen if it goes wrong. 

*A dealer will charge you 0.4 hours per mirror to remove and replace them. If you have dimming and/or aspherical mirror glass, and you break it this alone could cost you more than getting the dealer to do the work. None of the internal mirror parts are particularly cheap. Consider whether you really want to DIY. *

*Credit where credit's due:*
Original pictures by Bryn, original info taken from the KB article from MTK and Bryn. Additional pictures by yosh. Other information from ElsaWin provided by Naresh.

Sorry, I have no extra pictures at this stage.

*Things to bear in mind:*
It should be an easy job, but design quirks can make it a complete pain in the neck. Familiarize yourself with the task and the parts. Even when you know exactly what to do, it can be an awkard job. One side may be considerably more difficult than the other, for no apparent reason. Connectors can be incredibly tight. Things might not work as they should. Issues like these can increase the risk of damage to your car. As mentioned above, any damage may cost more than getting your dealer to do the work for you.

If you're not used to working on cars, allow yourself plenty of time especially if you have to work outside. Get a second pair of hands to help, because some parts can be a bit awkward.

*You will need:*
Something to prize the mirror glass off with, ideally something broad and flat.
Some decent Torx drivers. No B&Q crud. T15 for most of the job, and T9 for the indicators.
Some cloths to protect the car, hold mirrors etc.
An extra pair of hands - it really does help if you have awkward connectors. 
Possibly a couple of pairs of pliers depending on what connectors you have.

If you want to further secure the heating element connectors you will need some epoxy resin or other non-conductive filler.

To prepare for the job you can drape cloths around the mirror support and tape them to the car to protect the bodywork - you never know, you might drop something. Ideally put something on the ground as well. That way if something does slip out of your hand it's got something soft to land on.

Without further ado, the following post contains the first steps:


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

*Step 1 - Removing the mirror glass*
Move the mirror all the way to one side so you can get your prizing tool in behind it. Using a cloth to protect the mirror housing, gently prize the mirror off. Hold the mirror with a cloth. When handling the mirror and disconnecting connectors in the following steps, be mindful not to put excess pressure on any point of the mirror. Support it if necessary.

You will see the following connectors:

Heating element connectors: thin red and black wires with pinkish L-shaped coverings to spade connectors. Take a look at the mirror and you'll see these slide on to L-shaped pieces of metal that sit within the recess and go slightly under the plastic guard. There is quite a gap between the two. This is a weakness of the design. If the connectors are stiff, they will flex, and the backing that they connect to is also soft. If you are not careful you can damage the connection to the heating element!

Tip: Once the mirror is removed you can fill the void with eopxy resin so that in future there is no flex to them. Don't do this with the connectors in place of course 


(Option) Dimming connector: If you have auto-dimming mirrors there will also be a power connector on the back of the mirror glass for that. The white plug from the car is plugged into a black female connector on the mirror. The joined connectors are clipped onto the back of the mirror. Unclip this from the mirror glass to make disconnection easier. These connectors are the toughest of the lot and can be incredibly stiff for no apparent reason. If you need to resort to pliers, get someone to hold the glass, and hold the female connector by its narrow sides so it doesn't squeeze the plug, and the white plug by its broad sides.

With the mirror glass removed and disconnected, you could take this opportunity to fill around the heating element connectors if you so wish, to strengthen them up. If you do this, you do so at your own risk.
*
Step 2 - A spot of familiarization before continuing:*
Having removed the glass, you'll be presented with this view of your mirror:









Familiarize yourself with the insides, known as the mounting plate. Towards the car window you have a tubular section through which the cabling passes, and which also attaches the mirror to the car. This section is itself in two sections. The section with the mirror motors etc. rotates around the base section that is secured to the car with the silver Torx screw at the bottom right of the picture. Move the mirror housing towards the front of the car, and back to its normal position and you'll see what I mean. You will also see the splines on the upper rotating section that limit the rotation of the mirror housing by contacting up against the block with that silver screw in it. The block surrounding the silver screw can be seen to reach either end of the recess created by these splines.

About that silver screw: It's soft. Really soft. You need a decent Torx bit of the correct size. If your Torx driver is the wrong size or a poor fix, you can very easily chew the head on this screw. Personally I would recommend that if you don't have the right tool and a very snug fit, not to proceed. Also note that once used, the screw will likely rust. Protect it if you can. A replacement bag of mirror screws and bits, which includes this soft screw is available as part number "8J0 898 011", costing a couple of pounds.

*Step 3: Disconnecting the remainder of the wires:*
Rotate the mirror housing around towards the front of the car until it reaches its natural click-stop. Look underneath the mirror and you'll see the Torx screw that secures the bottom of the housing to the mounting plate and the seal to the bottom of the housing.








Undo this and keep to one side.

Next undo the THREE Torx screws that hold the housing to the mounting plate. They are indicated in this picture, top left, top right and bottom left, but LEAVE the silver screw at the bottom inner corner for now. It'll keep the mounting plate secure attached to the car while you unplug the cables.









With the screw underneath and the three screws mentioned above removed, the mirror housing is now free of the mounting plate. With some gentle convincing it'll move free, and allow access behind the mounting plate.

There are now 2 or three further sets of wires to disconnect. Thankfully these are all easier than the ones before. They are:
Mirror adjustment power: Four pin white plastic connector with red and white wires on the front underside of the mounting plate. On both sides of the car it's on the right, so is a bit trickier to get to on the left mirror.

(Optional) Mirror folding power: White connector with two wires clipped into a slot on the BACK of the mounting plate (i.e. inside the housing). Remove the joined connectors from the slot, and disconnect them.

Indicator power: Black connector in a black socket, with blue and yellow wires, secured to the inside of the mirror housing itself. The connectors cannot be disconnected from the housing to unplug them, so you need to be of nimble fingers. Fortunately, these connectors are not stiff like most of the others. There is a knack to their removal. If it doesn't unplug easily, you've missed the knack, so try again. These really don't need any force to undo.

You can see the removed connector in the centre of this picture: 








The plug slides in horizontally towards the CAR, i.e. towards the deepest part of the housing. The knack to removal is this: there's a plastic tab right by where the wires come out of the connector, which you can see immediately below the yellow wire in the above picture. Press in right by the edge of the connector - this is towards the outside of the car as you consider the normal mirror position. You'll feel it give if you're pressing the right place, and it's just a see-saw to free the locking clip on the other side. Holding that in, the plug will slide out AWAY from the car very easily. It's a bit fiddly, so if it doesn't budge, it just means the clip isn't quite free or you're not pressing in quite the right place.

*Step 4 - Removing the mounting plate and housing:*
With all the wires disconnected, the mounting plate and housing can be removed from the car. Take extra care here now that the mirror housing isn't secured to the mounting plate! An extra pair of hands is useful again here, just to help hold things.

Rotate the mounting plate back towards the rear of the car towards its normal position when driving, so you're here again:








Now remove the silver Torx screw at the bottom corner (bottom right of the image) that we mentioned earlier. This secures the mounting plate to the car. WARNING: This screw is SOFT.

Rotate the mounting plate and mirror housing towards the front of the car again towards the click-stop. If you look at the bottom of the mounting plate where it connects to the car, you'll see an L-shaped groove with a square metal peg in it, at position X.

#########
##.X........##
#####...##
#####...##

Photos below illustrate these for re-assembly should you need a better visualisation at this stage 

The mounting plate is held onto the car by this twist lock. You can see that if you rotate the mounting plate a bit further towards the front of the car, that it will be able to just lift off. BEFORE YOU PROCEED, be aware that this twist lock can be problematic to reinstate later because you need to be able to get enough torsion on the mounting plate to resituate it. As the mounting plate rotates around the lower section with the twist lock, this can be very difficult to resecure if it acts up!

If you wish to proceed, twist the mounting plate further towards the front of the car. Carefully lift the mounting plate and housing from the car, passing the wires and their connectors through the central tube of the mounting plate. This is easiest if you work from the smallest connectors to the larger ones, and finish with the black inicator connector which can help nicely push the others through.

Voila! Mirror housing and mounting plate removed from the car.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

*Step 5 - Moving the indicator assembly to your new mirror housing:*
Remove the mounting plate from the mirror housing. You'll see the following:









Undo the six T9 Torx screws that secure the indicator assembly to the mirror housing. The indicator housing is easily removed as follows: 
Gently pull the end of the indicator assembly where the cable connector is. You'll see it rotate slightly around the opposite end. The outer end is slotted though the slot in the mirror housing, and there's about 3/4 inch of the indicator strip that hooks through there. As the assembly rotates out of the housing, you'll see that end unhooking and then you'll be able to pull it through the slot.

Clean the indicator assembly if need be, and then reverse the above process to fit it into the replacement mirror housing. Feed the outer end through the slot to where it hooks in place, and rotate the indicator into the mirror housing, line up the screw holes, and replace the six T9 screws.

*Step 6 - Move the seal to your new mirror housing:*
Where this screw goes into the underside of the mirror housing:









...it also secures a seal, as previously mentioned. You'll see this seal on the underside of the removed mirror housing. It has two clips, which you'll see if you look inside the housing. They undo very easily with a nudge of a fingertip, allowing removal of the seal. It's probably filthy, so give it a clean  Clip it in place on your new housing.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

*Step 7 - Beginning reassembly:*
Situate the mounting plate within the new mirror housing, so that its tubular section comes through the hole in the seal on the underside of the housing. 
Pass the wires and connectors back through the tube. Start with the smallest again and finish up with the black indicator connector as before to help push things through until you can gently pull them through.

Look at the bottom of the tube and you'll see the slots for the potentially troublesome twist lock. 
Here's a photo illustrating the L-shaped groove in the mounting plate: 









Look at the mirror base on the car and you'll see the square pegs that the mounting plate lines up with.









Line them up, and lower the mounting plate and mirror housing back onto the car. You'll see the pegs on the mirror base at position X in the L-shaped twist lock slots at the bottom of the mounting plate:

#########
##........X ##
#####...##
#####...##

The mounting plate now needs to be rotated towards the back of the car to lock the mounting plate back in place. What this also does is line up the hole in the bottom corner of the mounting plate, with the corresponding threaded hole on the mirror base of the car. This is the hole that the soft silver screw (mentioned in steps 2 and 4) goes into to secure the mounting plate to the car. Obviously these need to line up once the twist lock is resituated, and this can be troublesome if the mounting plate rotates but the twist lock does not.

Once the mounting plate twist lock is correctly resituated, relocate the silver screw so that it is secure. You should now be able to move the mounting plate backwards and forwards in its normal range of motion, with it remaining secure.

*Step 8 - Reconnecting the wiring to the mounting plate:*
Reconnect the black indicator connector into the mirror housing.
(Option) Reconnect the folding mirror power to the connector on the BACK of the mounting plate. Clip it back into its slot to hold it securely.
Reconnect the four pin connector with the red and white wires for mirror adjustment.

Move the mounting plate towards the front of the car for the next step if it's not already there.

*Step 9 - Relocating the mirror housing:*
Make sure that the connectors for the mirror glass are brought to the outside of the mirror housing.
Gently resituate the mirror housing onto the mounting plate so that all the screw holes line up. There's a bit of a knack to getting it in place. If it feels like it's not going, then it won't, don't force it, just jiggle it around until it gently moves into place.

Screw in the three Torx screws to secure the housing to the back of the mounting plate.
Screw the countersunk Torx screw back into the underside of the housing to secure the bottom of the housing to the mounting plate, and to secure the seal you clipped onto your new housing in step 6.

*Step 10 - Relocating the mirror glass:*
(Option) Reconnect the dimmer power connector to the mirror, and re-clip the joined connectors to the back of the mirror. They slot in on one side, and clip down on the other. 
Reconnect the pink connectors for the heating element.
Resituate the mirror glass, taking care to get the plastic arc on the back of the mirror into the silver slots shown on the centre-left of this picture:








With gradual application of firm but even pressure, clip the mirror glass back into place. Ensure that it is secured all the way around.

Job done! Move the mirror into its normal place. 

If the mirror won't adjust angles through its full range of motion using the control in the car, the chances are the housing isn't correctly situated. The glass should not touch the housing.


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## TT-REX (Jun 3, 2011)

its almost impossible to get the power cable off im stuck!! and that soft screw too **** t15 is small for that soft screw i thing


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## OscarTango (Dec 14, 2008)

Maybe it's a idea to incorparate this into the text : " get yourself 2 new "soft" screws from the dealer before you start this task..." I destroyed one ( of course the second mirror I did ) and let the dealer deal with it. They drilled it out.... Wasn't going to do that myself, because that would have ended badly ( dented, scratched door, cracked mirror housing etc... )


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

TT-REX said:


> its almost impossible to get the power cable off im stuck!!


Which one? There are three.

Dealer: 0.4 hours. Job done.


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## jaybyme (Mar 10, 2010)

useful guide,just fitted a carbon mirror housing,luckily without any problems,hopefully the other side goes as smoothly after lunch.


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## whosijones (Oct 28, 2017)

What a well written guide.
I did this job today with an already rounded screw, it looks more like a hex bit on mine though... I hammered a t20 in it to get it out, I've only partially put it back in, for when I replace it.
The only difference I made was putting the indicator connector back in before putting any torx bits back in.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Adding a PDF of this guide to hopefully protect against broken images in future


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This Chrome Extensions that will stop hyperlinked Photobucket pictures from being blurred and also removes the watermark. Simple enough to just click and add to your existing Google Chrome Extensions. These extensions will work on any website or forum where pictures were uploaded and linked to the post via Photobucket.

*Photobucket Fix*
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... apbifiaedg


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

guys, since I often carry out works of this kind on other TTs besides mine, I would like to equip myself with an excellent wrench to unscrew the two soft screws of the two mirrors; the bolt is hexagonal even if in fact it can be unscrewed with a torx but exactly what wrench do you need and which wrench do you recommend? just yesterday on a TT I had a lot of problems and in the end I had to drill the screw and replace it with a new 7mm self-tapping screw as the hole widened slightly; in the TT I got my hands on yesterday I had two terrible problems to fight;

1) the left side soft bolt (here in Italy it would be the driver side).

2) the inability to remove the glass on the right side (the first time this happens to me) until it is broken. besides the rotor in which the glass is hooked, I think has suffered a forcing and in fact remained downwards without being able to raise it.

3) how do i disassemble the rotor? it seems to me that I simply have to unscrew the central torx and then I have to pull or are there some clips that hold it?

4) once disassembled, will I be able to open and unlock it?

5) could you tell me how to open it and intervene in order to unlock it since it does not go upwards?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you need a reference, the wing mirrors are covered in both of the following workshop manuals:

• *General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220) Exterior Equipment*
• *Electrical System (A005TT01320) Lights, bulbs, switches - exterior*

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

This post includes some additional images and part numbers for replacement screw kits -

*Remove Wing Mirror Housing*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1756282


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

in practice, component 12 no longer goes upwards, it seems to have blocked; can I re-learn it? how do i take it apart and how do i open it to repair it?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

armran said:


> ...in the *TT I* got my hands on yesterday I had two terrible problems to fight...


@ *Armran* - If you are doing this on a *Mk1*, you might want to post or run a search in the Forum's Mk1 section since the design of the Mk1 vs. Mk2 mirrors are different. Mk1 mirror assembly shown below -


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

To answer 3)

Yes there are some clips, 3 I think. They are around the edge, you can prise them with a flat screwdriver


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

SwissJetPilot said:


> armran said:
> 
> 
> > ...in the *TT I* got my hands on yesterday I had two terrible problems to fight...
> ...


Mk2


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

MT-V6 said:


> To answer 3)
> 
> Yes there are some clips, 3 I think. They are around the edge, you can prise them with a flat screwdriver


should i be able to do it without having to disassemble the mirror body or the metal structure in which the rotor is attached?

I can't find any video / tutorial to follow to disassemble the rotor and fix it


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Ah, okay.  Wasn't sure.

This video may help. I looks like you'll have to pull the mirror body off in order to get to the fourth Torx T20 screw -

*Audi TT RS 8J MK2 Wing Mirror/Indicator Removal*


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

no no, I have already disassembled the mirror, replaced the cap and the arrow and reassembled; now I have to disassemble only the rotor in which the glass is hooked, because it does not rise upwards and I have to open it; therefore I remove the screw there is tesle t10 and pull or do I have to disassemble everything again to remove the rotor?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wrong torx screw SJP  to remove the adjustment motor, the screw is right in the centre of it, if looking at it straight on (as if it had a mirror fitted)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Sorry. My bad. I thought he was referring to the four screws that holds the motor assembly to the body.

You mean this one - #34 ?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yep that's the one


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

right, I unscrew that T10 and it comes immediately or will there be interlocking hooks? once removed, there should be three clips to open it, do you think I will have a view of the gear and will be able to fix it since it now appears to be blocked as it cannot climb upwards?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I found these two pictures of _*P/N 8J0858531, Mounting Plate Adjuster*_ on eBay. Maybe you can tell from these pics how item #4 is held into place once the screw has been removed...??


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

theoretically unscrewing the t10 should come off easily

instead to open it I help myself with a slotted screwdriver by acting on the three rear clips


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

To avoid breaking them with a screwdriver, shim each clip so it stays open. You can make a shim from either an old credit card or hotel key card or even a plastic drink bottle or aluminum soda can.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Do you mean that you want to get out the motor from its base OR disassemble the motor?

Can you move the motor up with some force?


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Maybe that video could help





It is not the exact same motor but could give some ideas.


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

lukeexecute said:


> Do you mean that you want to get out the motor from its base OR disassemble the motor?
> 
> Can you move the motor up with some force?


1) remove the circular motor from the metal plate 2) once the circular motor in which the glass is hooked has been disassembled, I have to open it to be able to unlock it since it does not go upwards


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

lukeexecute said:


> Maybe that video could help
> 
> 
> 
> ...


perfect thanks! by any chance, do you also have a video showing the exact procedure for removing the rotor from the metal frame that joins the rest of the mirror? I need to see if after unscrewing the T10 there is some procedure to disengage the round engine from the frame


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

1) Indeed it needs a little bit of force to take it out of the metal plate. 
I would remove the 4 T20 torx screws that holds the metal part with the motor. 
Then remove the middle T10 torx holding the motor. Finally, use a lever tool to try to force out the motor from the metal part. You have to lever around the motor to the 3 holding points that you could see to previous photos. 
Unfortunately I am on vacations and I can't send you a video to explain.

2) I have never opened the motor itself. So, I can't help. I would try to move it by hand upwards and then see if it works again.

Do left and right work?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Almost all actuator motors are geared, and are often plastic; meaning you can easily strip the gears or damage them if you force them. IMHO your best bet is to open the case and see why it can't move rather than trying to force it.

Here's a picture of a Roof Flap Servo used on the Roadster to raise and lower the side flaps. These are nearly identical to the servos used in the HVAC system to open/close the flaps which direct air flow.

As shown here, there are no less than four gears starting with (1) at the motor. Forcing the lever arm (lower right) will damage or break either the gray gear (4) or the white axle gear (3) and possibly (2) as well. The only metal gear is the worm gear (1) on the motor which will certainly damage the plastic one it's connected to (2).


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

lukeexecute said:


> 1) Indeed it needs a little bit of force to take it out of the metal plate.
> I would remove the 4 T20 torx screws that holds the metal part with the motor.
> Then remove the middle T10 torx holding the motor. Finally, use a lever tool to try to force out the motor from the metal part. You have to lever around the motor to the 3 holding points that you could see to previous photos.
> Unfortunately I am on vacations and I can't send you a video to explain.
> ...


yes, the engine works both left and right even if it seems a bit hindered; perhaps to disassemble the circular part it is necessary to remove only the central and then interlocking T10


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Almost all actuator motors are geared, and are often plastic; meaning you can easily strip the gears or damage them if you force them. IMHO your best bet is to open the case and see why it can't move rather than trying to force it.
> 
> Here's a picture of a Roof Flap Servo used on the Roadster to raise and lower the side flaps. These are nearly identical to the servos used in the HVAC system to open/close the flaps which direct air flow.
> 
> As shown here, there are no less than four gears starting with (1) at the motor. Forcing the lever arm (lower right) will damage or break either the gray gear (4) or the white axle gear (3) and possibly (2) as well. The only metal gear is the worm gear (1) on the motor which will certainly damage the plastic one it's connected to (2).


I am looking for a competition engine, if it costs a few euros I will buy it and free myself otherwise I try to disassemble it and see what will happen


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Great! Please post pictures of your discovery!!  I don't think anyone's opened up a mirror motor before.


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

of course if I disassemble it I will take photos everything is set, if instead I find a new engine for little money, in this case I will not waste time


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Mirror motor part number should be 8j0959577b

I have one spare that is working perfectly but I am located in Greece. Used prices are around 40€.

It seems that something is broken inside so is best Not to force it move like SwissJetPilot said.


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

does this aftermarket replacement exist?


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

guys, I unscrewed the central t10 but the circular piece does not come out; Could it be that in order to remove it, I must first disassemble everything? do you have a link showing how to remove it?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

See this photo. The 3 parts that look like bolt threads, each have a piece which the motor clips into. Prise these areas with a flat screwdriver


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I would remove the 4 T20 torx screws that holds the metal part with the motor. 
Then remove the middle T10 torx holding the motor. Finally, use a lever tool to try to force out the motor from the metal part. You have to lever around the motor to the 3 holding points that you could see to previous photos.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I recommend that you use a plastic tool as lever or you will probably damage the back of the motor mirror.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Found these pictures on the *ECS Tuning* website. It looks like this would be much easier to remove if the entire motor assembly was removed from the mirror body first -

















Source - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... j0959577b/

.


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

I have the impression that to understand how to disassemble it, I have to disassemble the entire mirror and then unscrew the torx that join the whole engine body from the cap


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

lukeexecute said:


> I would remove the 4 T20 torx screws that holds the metal part with the motor.
> Then remove the middle T10 torx holding the motor. Finally, use a lever tool to try to force out the motor from the metal part. You have to lever around the motor to the 3 holding points that you could see to previous photos.


theoretically it should be a single t10 screw to hold the circular motor to the black frame, the other t20s are used to tie the cap to the motor frame


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

armran said:


> lukeexecute said:
> 
> 
> > I would remove the 4 T20 torx screws that holds the metal part with the motor.
> ...


That's correct. But removing/freeing the frame will make it easier to lever out the motor.


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## armran (Oct 8, 2014)

do you think it is compatible? looks identical

https://www.ebay.it/itm/FORD-FOCUS-II-m ... 634-2357-0


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