# Retrofit Xenon DRL to Halogen non DRL Project



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

So over the next few months I plan to carry out this conversion *MYSELF* on my 2009 Audi TT for under £500.

I plan to document this here as and when it happens so that those who wish to carry it out in the future can use this for information.

I've had a browse through the web for information which appears to be minimal and as of yet I've been unable to find a guide where someone has done it themselves. It obviously is possible as companies charge up to £2000 for this conversion.

Now don't get me wrong I am sure the companies charging such monies are justified due to the amount of parts/work required but personally I can't justify spending 20% of my cars value on upgraded lights with the addition of DRL's.

I plan on doing this project in a number of stages:-

1. fit Xenon DRL units and try to wire the units up. This is the first obsticle and possibly the hardest. whether a new harness is required, rewiring is possible or whether its possible to make a conversion mini harness to retro fit them will all be looked at. I've trawled the web and it doesn't look like theres anything on the market at present.

2. Fit the auto levelling system.

3. Fit the headlight washer system.

If anybody has any information please post it below! I don't have lots of time on my hands so this will be done as and when I have time but slowly and surely I will try to get this done...

At present I have managed to buy a pair of Xenon DRL light units complete with ballast and bulb. These were a price i couldn't refuse of £250.

I will start by trying to find wiring diagrams on the web to try get these working off the car.

AGAIN.. please if you have something to contribute please post it below (hopefully positive and constructive!).


----------



## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Good luck!

You'll need a new light switch too, the one that comes with a DRL on/off instead of beam height settings.


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> Good luck!
> 
> You'll need a new light switch too, the one that comes with a DRL on/off instead of beam height settings.


Ah yes I have seen this switch but wasn't sure if this was a compulsory as I've read some drl lights are on with ignition with no option to switch them off.

Hopefully the plugs all match on the switch and its a direct swap and simply needs coding with a scanner


----------



## spike (Dec 26, 2013)

audi do a conversion loom, you'll probally need too.

My 59 plate has had a conversation done by the TT shop.However they have encountered major problems with coding the car to the lights. In fact basically couldn't do it!

They even tried a new control module under the seat, to help, but didn't solve the issue.

Its not always as simple as changing just the hardware.

see here>> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=168562&start=0


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Ok so current progress is the lights are in and working and stage 1 is complete. I bought some lights from ebay which never turned up in the end (typical ebay) but like busses another set came long and I made an offer and hey presto 2 days later they are here.

I bought:-

2 brand new xenon drl headlamps from ebay £370.
Conversion loom from a German company £35.
10m of black split wire covering (to make a tidy job).
I have bought vag com also as I needed this for numerous things.
I also bought a light switch which has the drl switch on but never used it in the end.

Today I had some spare time and in 45mins it was done. It really was that simple, 3 bolts per light slide out clip in the conversion loom slot back in and fasten down. I then used the black split cable covering for the 2 high beam wires and tracked them back to where I routed the cruise control retro fit wire in and routed it through there.

It looks completely stock so I'm really happy!

As for vag com I simply changed the light type to xenon with drl and added the drl on/off option to the dis and all done.

No error messages and stage 1 complete!


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Part 2 is the auto levelling system.

This can be bought complete from a company called kufatec for £500.

I think this can be done for about half this proce and so far I have located all 4 axle level sensors for £150 brand new, the xenon range sensor for £30 and luckily kuafetec sell the retrofit harness for £90 so this is lookin a lot better price.

I'll do some more research and shopping about and see what happens!


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

On a side not I've been busy with other things on the TT, those who know me from my mk1 will remember I paint cars in my spare time and have sent a little time on the my mk2, here's the results!

Both the bonnet and the boot weren't in the best condition as there was small marks/dents where the previous owner had pressed down excessively to close them. Don't be put off by the fillet it's litterally 1mm think along the majority and it's amazing how much a small dent can effect the panel over a larger distance.

Boot during



Boot after



Bonnet during



Bonnet after



Next this is pair of black edition skirts and front and rear bumper I've got laid around waiting to be painted...


----------



## Undisputed_88 (Aug 5, 2011)

Subscribed! I am interested in doing this same conversion very soon..

To my understanding you will also need the control module so that the LED DRL's dim when you are indicating?

Is the headlight switch change not a must then?


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Undisputed_88 said:


> Subscribed! I am interested in doing this same conversion very soon..
> 
> To my understanding you will also need the control module so that the LED DRL's dim when you are indicating?
> 
> Is the headlight switch change not a must then?


Hi, as far as I'm aware the drl dimming when indicating is activated through vagcom and nothing else is required, I'll look into it though.

The switch is a no no in my opinion as it had an additional plug on to the one which I removed so I assume a retro fit harness may be required.

As standard when I changed the lights the drls came on when I clicked the light switch once to the sidelight option, I then changed it to Scandinavian style which meant they were on with the ignition and then I settle on the dis option which means they are on when the ignition is on but you have the option to turn them off when required.


----------



## Undisputed_88 (Aug 5, 2011)

Oh right. I was under the impression that a new control module would be required so that the dimming when indicating would be active. Let me know how you get on if you do think it is possible via vagcom

I was a told a wiring harness would be required, whether or not this was for the headlight switch I am not sure but if you are saying that you are using your current halogen headlight switch to activate/deactivate the DRLs then that is a cost saving on its own

eager to see the finish of this!


----------



## Undisputed_88 (Aug 5, 2011)

how did you go about changing it to the scandanavian style?


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Undisputed_88 said:


> how did you go about changing it to the scandanavian style?


It's just as simple as ticking a tick box in the long code helper in vagcom which changes the code 30 second job!


----------



## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I'm impressed!


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> I'm impressed!


Thanks! There's still a lot to come!


----------



## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Watching this space then


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Ok, so a number of pms have been received about the bag com coding for xenon and drl retro fitting so I'll clear it up..

VERY easy, can be done in 2 minutes flat! This is all done through 09 central electronics

2 steps:-

1. change your head lights from current to no.06 through byte 21



At this point now if you have the normal light switch turning your switch to the 1st click (sidelights) and the drl should come on. I wanted mine on perminantly, whenever the ignition was on so...

2. Check Scandinavian style on the long code helper on byte 0 bit 3.



I then confirmed the changes, switched the ignition off/on, scanned for faults, cleared and faults (curiosity made me try the lights without any coding which threw up some faults!? Anyway they never worked just flashed)

After that everything worked and I've never had a fault code with them.

Hope this clears it up!

There's options to activate the range sensor and auto level which are both unchecked as I'm yet to fit them.

For those having problems and do have these installed carrying out a retrofit if recommend unchecking them, just get the lights working firstly without faults then work from there?


----------



## neil_audiTT (Sep 1, 2010)

This is what i did on mine, except i dont have the LED's so it puts the ambers on all the time instead 

Do fancy LED DRL's though! Just they're bloody expensive!


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

neil_audiTT said:


> This is what i did on mine, except i dont have the LED's so it puts the ambers on all the time instead
> 
> Do fancy LED DRL's though! Just they're bloody expensive!


I agree they are expensive but definitely worth it if you planning on keeping the car, the DRL definitely update the look and the Xenons are a massive improvement over the Halogen lights


----------



## Undisputed_88 (Aug 5, 2011)

Good stuff!! 

Any updates?


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Just a quick update..

So after been contacted by another forum member who was doing a similar conversion it was made apparent that if your car is a 2010 year or newer TT you will need a different harness which has 4 additional wire (instead of 2). Again all wires need taking back to the comfort module and wiring in.

Also I had a free day today so I've been busy with my TT...

I bought this some time ago with a black edition grill and s line side grills



I found some te to get it painted and fitted, I prefer the s line side grill instead of the black edition as I feel it matches the centre grill





Let me know what you think..


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Next on the list is a ttrs front brake conversion and ttrs recaro bucket seats..


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Oh and I also managed to find some genuine Audi black edition 19" wheels


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Your fog grills are pre facelift tts grills mate not s-line

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## bhoy78 (Oct 30, 2014)

Car looks stunning, done a great job


----------



## Vangu (Jan 12, 2015)

Im doing exactly the same process including autodimming centre mirror with rain and light sensor:

Bought the two headlights on ebay 700€

Bought the 30bits Module, Washing headlight sistem, light switch unit, autodimming mirror with light and rain sensor, auto levelling sensors front and back, xenon module unit. From a damage tts. 300€

Bought Washing Cylinders on Audi 140€

Guy who was working on audi and knows how to code and put all the stuff: 300€

Leaving the car next monday.


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

bhoy78 said:


> Car looks stunning, done a great job


Thanks for the positive comments!


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

1wheelonly said:


> Your fog grills are pre facelift tts grills mate not s-line
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Ahh my mistake I just saw them on flea bay and thought they may look nice and I think they suit it? I can always stick the black editions ones in if I change my mind


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Vangu said:


> Im doing exactly the same process including autodimming centre mirror with rain and light sensor:
> 
> Bought the two headlights on ebay 700€
> 
> ...


Sounds good! I hope you're logging it in here with pictures!


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

He's not doing it ! 
No point putting it on here if he's paying someone else to do it

To me, retro fit means doing it yourself 
Only My opinion

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

1wheelonly said:


> He's not doing it !
> No point putting it on here if he's paying someone else to do it
> 
> To me, retro fit means doing it yourself
> ...


I understand what your saying but some people are not practical enough and the best thing to do in that case is get someone who is!

Rertofit simply means to fit afterwards so if something was added after it left the factory but the main thing is it's done right imo


----------



## Arrow (Mar 20, 2013)

That's looking great, and thanks for the images. of the coding.

I'm not sure where folks are picking up the LED DRL headlight units so cheap though. I'm on the look out for a set but they appear to be rarer than rocking horse sh1te unless buying new for over £800.


----------



## Vangu (Jan 12, 2015)

turtleTT said:


> 1wheelonly said:
> 
> 
> > He's not doing it !
> ...


Exactly i wish i knew more about how to put but unfortunatly i dont so i have to get someone who does it. I wrote it here to let people knows how much can be more less all the process.

I will add some pictures after it finally.

By the way your car looks amazing mate.


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Arrow said:


> That's looking great, and thanks for the images. of the coding.
> 
> I'm not sure where folks are picking up the LED DRL headlight units so cheap though. I'm on the look out for a set but they appear to be rarer than rocking horse sh1te unless buying new for over £800.


Patience is key I would never pay more than £250 for a complete drl xenon complete unit and it wants to be like new!!

I was lucky I got one on gumtree for pennies but paid a little more for the other one on fleabay


----------



## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Vangu said:


> turtleTT said:
> 
> 
> > 1wheelonly said:
> ...


I don'tind mate! I enjoy looking at pictures of what people are doing to there cars irrespective of who does the work!


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

turtleTT said:


> I bought:-
> 
> 2 brand new xenon drl headlamps from ebay £370.
> Conversion loom from a German company £35.
> ...


I have started the Halogen to Xenon DRL conversion process, but I am currently stuck with the conversion loom. I too brought mine from a German company with inaccurate instructions [smiley=book2.gif] [smiley=bomb.gif] . Each loom (Left & Right) comes with two addition wires too which I believe are suppose to be wire back to the On-Board Supply (Central Controller) but I am just unaware of what pin each wire is suppose to be connected to on the On-Board Supply (Central Controller)!....

ANYBODY Please HELP???! and THANKS in advance!!!


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

It depends on the year of car 
Which CEM module you have 
What lights you had before

The instructions usually tell you where the wires need to go providing you've bought the correct loom adapters for your module

Having 2 wires on each adapter would indicate that your car is a 2010 onwards and you have the CEM that has the 3x 52 pin blocks

Is this correct

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## patton (Dec 2, 2014)

great work, may have to look into this when i eventually get a tt


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> It depends on the year of car
> Which CEM module you have
> What lights you had before
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply 1WheelOnly, im not sure what the part number for the previous lights are as the cars had front end damage and came without the lights.

The lights i bought to replace them are *8J0 941 003AK* and *8J0 941 004AK*
The Car is a *2007* Audi TT 3.2 Quattro
The On-Board Supply (Central Controller) is *8P0 907 279 H*
This is the conversion loom i ended up buying> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181663755202? ... EBIDX%3AIT


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

You've bought the wrong loom adapters mate 
The one you have bought is if your car previously had xenons and are converting to bi xenons with led drl

The two additional wires on each, one is for additional power to the led drl as it requires 2 power feeds

The other is for the bi xenon main beam ( allows the motor to move the bulb up

The lights you have bought are spot on, you could use the loom adapters you've bought but you'd need to do some pin swapping which defeats the object

I believe this is the one you need but contact them first and confirm

http://www.kufatec.co.uk/shop/en/Audi/T ... ction_ms=1

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> You've bought the wrong loom adapters mate
> The one you have bought is if your car previously had xenons and are converting to bi xenons with led drl
> 
> The two additional wires on each, one is for additional power to the led drl as it requires 2 power feeds
> ...


That would make sense.. i have sent an email to Kufatec to find out whether their harness is the right one but in the mean time, hypothetically speaking if i did want to change some of the pins around to use the harness i have already bought.

do you know what pins go where or have a wiring diagram to assist?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Kufatec do all the looms for all the models / years / conversions, you need to tell them what you have and what you want to put on

Is the one you have now a 10 pin to 14 pin adapter ? 
What pins of the 14 pin plug are the 2 extra wires in ?

Your sure you have the correct bulbs and ballasts screwed to the side of the lights 
They should be 
1 307 329 193 / 1 307 329 193 01

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Kufatec do all the looms for all the models / years / conversions, you need to tell them what you have and what you want to put on
> 
> Is the one you have now a 10 pin to 14 pin adapter ?
> What pins of the 14 pin plug are the 2 extra wires in ?
> ...


yup. it is a 10 to 14 pin harness adaptor 
and if i can remember correct there is a black & blue coloured wire coming from pin 11 ( i was told this is usually the yellow wire)
and there is a black wire coming out of pin 14 but i would have to double check as i am not with the car right now..

I was also told for Bi-Xenon realisation the black & blue coloured wire should be connected 
to pin 5 in Plug A of the On-Board Supply (Right Headlight) and 
to pin 6 of Plug D of the On-Board Supply (Left Headlight)

and for the DRLs, the black wires should be connected
to pin 3 in Plug A of the On-Board Supply (Right Headlight) and 
to pin 3 of Plug D of the On-Board Supply (Left Headlight)

Ive tried this but have had no luck [smiley=bomb.gif] :? , also i have the right ballast


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

It's a while now since I did it and I have a totally different CEM to you but I did see a pin diagram for yours once and it sounds correct from memory

Have you double checked that you've coded it correctly

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Right just found diagram for your module and can confirm

Right headlight wire from pin 11 goes to the black connector block A pin 5

Left headlight wire from pin 11 goes to the brown connector block D pin 6

They are 100% correct for your main beam

You shouldn't need the other 2 additional wires on your module if the loom adapter is wired correctly
But sometimes there used instead of swapping pins over in the module

So I think you should be ok with the instruction you have so that would leave incorrect coding

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Right just found diagram for your module and can confirm
> 
> Right headlight wire from pin 11 goes to the black connector block A pin 5
> 
> ...


Thanks. would you be able to pm me the wiring diagram you found?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Not got a wiring diagram mate, only got this showing the pins for main beam which you already have

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Can you tell me what pin goes to what in your 10 pin to 14 pin adapter and I can see if it's the same as mine

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Can you tell me what pin goes to what in your 10 pin to 14 pin adapter and I can see if it's the same as mine
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


no problem mate, ill have to get back to you next time i am with the car which will probs be the weekend, but thanks for the help so far :wink: :wink:


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

No worries

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Can you tell me what pin goes to what in your 10 pin to 14 pin adapter and I can see if it's the same as mine
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


*The 10 Pin to 14 Pin Connection Block*.

Pin 5 to Pin 5
Pin 7 to Pin 7
Pin 9 to Pin 9
Pin 6 to Pin 6
Pin 10 to Pin 10
Pin 14 to Pin 3 on the 10 block Connection End
Pin 11 has an black wire coming out of it
Pin 12 has an black and blue coloured wire coming out of it

Pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 8 & 13 are empty on the 14 Pin Connector Block
Pins 1, 2, & 8 are empty on the 10 Pin Connector Block


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

That looks right mate

For main beam
Pin 11 on right headlight goes to pin 5 on plug A

Pin 11 on left headlight goes to pin 6 on plug D

For the led DRL's
Pin 12 on right headlight goes to pin 3 on plug A
Pin 12 on left headlight goes to pin 3 on plug D

If this is how you have wired it up then it is now down to coding

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> That looks right mate
> 
> For main beam
> Pin 11 on right headlight goes to pin 5 on plug A
> ...


There is an all white coloured wire going into pin 3 on plug A already, do i have to remove this wire from pin 3 or do i splice into it and adding the wire from pin 12?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

????

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> ????
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


There is an all white coloured wire going into pin 3 on plug A already, do i have to remove this wire from pin 3 or do i splice into it and adding the wire from pin 12?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

No don't do anything with it yet

Is there an all white wire in your existing 10 pin plug at the headlight 
If so what number is it in ?
Is it pin 10 by any chance ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

pin 10 is grey and black coloured wire


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

But have you got an all white one in the 10 pin plug ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

There's only a white and black colours wire in the 10 pin plug but no all white wires


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Sorry I forgot your car is pre MY10
You don't require the two additional wires, only the two for main beam, you have the wrong loom adapters 
But so far the pins look ok to me

It should now be down to coding

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Sorry I forgot your car is pre MY10
> You don't require the two additional wires, only the two for main beam, you have the wrong loom adapters
> But so far the pins look ok to me
> 
> ...


Alright then. i will try coding it today if I get a chance and let you know how it went.
The weird thing is that when I unlock the car the leaving home lights come on (main beam) for roughly 20-30 secs and there fine. As soon as I turn the ignition on and flick the light switch to main beam, the main beams start flickering. :?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

When you code it, it will reassign the pins 
At the minute the welcome home lights are probably on a different pin assignment to what the switch is assigning

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> When you code it, it will reassign the pins
> At the minute the welcome home lights are probably on a different pin assignment to what the switch is assigning
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Your a legend mate. Programmed the lights today using vcds activating

Bit 3 DayTime Running Lights (Scandinavia) Active
& Bit 0-2 06 Bi-Xenon Front Light With LED DayTime Running Lights (DRL)

the last thing i need to know is how to program y new light switch with the drl option, i cant find how to do it on vcds??


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Glad your sorted mate

As for programming the drl switch, what do you mean ?

I'm guessing your wanting the drl's to come on when in the drl position ??
At the moment I assume there on in the 0 position ?
That's because you have it coded as Scandinavian

Your module is different to mine and as its not in front of me it's hard to say

It's just a case of playing about with coding mate

Start with bit 3

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

at the moment my headlight can only be controlled by my original headlight switch that only has: 0 > SideLight > Main Beam but ive bought a headlight switch with: 0 > DRL > SideLight > Main Beam that i want to use if possible but when connected no matter what position i turn the selector the lights do not come on


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

And with your original switch in what is the states of lighting ?

And with your new switch in you mean no drl's come on or no lights at all

You
Might think that the new switch should work but actually, although all the drl switches look the same there's actually about 4 variants of it

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> And with your original switch in what is the states of lighting ?
> 
> And with your new switch in you mean no drl's come on or no lights at all
> 
> ...


0 = just DRLs only
Side Lights = Just DRLs only
Main Beam = DRLs and Main Beam headlights

sorry i was meant to say with the headlight switch i bought the lights stay on permanently and do not turn off via the new switch.


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

0 = just drl's correct

Sidelights = just drl's ( your rear lights should be on aswell )

Dipped beam = drl's & dipped ( correct)

New switch, you mean ALL your lights are on and can't turn off or drl's won't turn off

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

All my lights are on and can't/ wont turn off with the new switch so I was under the impression it has to be coded to the car for it to start working. Is that right?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

No mate 
It's the wrong switch for the car

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> No mate
> It's the wrong switch for the car
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Do you know the part number for the light switch that will work with it?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

No mate I don't 
But I do know there is many variants

How many plugs do you have on your loom ? 
2 or 3 ??

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

My headlight loom has 2 plugs for he headlight switch


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes mate and I bet your switch has 3

( there will be a 3rd socket for a 2 pin plug )

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Yes mate and I bet your switch has 3
> 
> ( there will be a 3rd socket for a 2 pin plug )
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Correct!. The new switch I bought has 3 plug sockets :? But my loom only has two plugs


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Thought so 
That is the later switch 
When the 2 pin plug is removed from mine ALL the lights come on

You may need an additional wire from the switch to the CEM for it to work 
And no doubt some pin swapping

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

Thanks.. Don't think I fancy doing any pin swapping at te moment so I'll stick with the original headlight switch for now


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I have too mate 
The drl switch is a waist of time if your coded for always on

I can turn mine off in the dis menu if I ever want too

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

I need to have a look at my dis and see if it allows me to adjust my settings too.. 
Is there a way to change the brightness of the Drls in vag com?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes there is mate, there's 2 places in vagcom 
1 is in long coding 
09 Cent Elect 
Coding
long coding helper
Byte 24
bit 0 to 6 DRL Dimming decimal value % 92 *1 = 92%
bit 7 DRL as postion lights checked

change the number to 100

it is a number x 1% = brightnes percet

eg 100 x 1% = 100%

retick bit 7 box again

The second is

Adjust LED brightness
[09 - Cent. Elect.]
[Security Access - 16] (enter security code. One of the default codes is- 20113)
[Adaptation - 10] -> Channel 3
Enter new value for LED brightness 8-100

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

thanks mate.. ill give one of those methods a try and let you know how i get on


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

What's your issue mate ?
What are they doing when etc ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> What's your issue mate ?
> What are they doing when etc ?
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


The drl are working they just dont look as bright as other tt/tts i see on the road.

The only other issue i have is, my main beam headlights dont stay on for long when i push the stalk forward, they stay on for about 10-15 secs if thatt then go back to dipped

is this normal?


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

No that's normal mate 
They should stay at full beam until you pull the stalk back

Can you
Post a scan of your coding
A screen shot of each byte related to lights

As for your drl's 
Is the brightness of them changing from when there on on there own to when you turn on your dipped beam ?

They should be dimmed when the xenons are on 
Need to know if they get any brighter when you turn your xenons off and only the LEDs are lit

And do you only post once a day ???? Lol

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## legend139 (May 9, 2014)

We don't all live on the forum like you and your 100+ posts a day Lea


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

legend139 said:


> We don't all live on the forum like you and your 100+ posts a day Lea


Pot / kettle ! Lol 
Your always bloody on lol

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## legend139 (May 9, 2014)

1wheelonly said:


> legend139 said:
> 
> 
> > We don't all live on the forum like you and your 100+ posts a day Lea
> ...


Ahaha, I have a cushy job, gives me plenty of time to ask stupid questions, add snarky comments and pretend I know what I'm talking about


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Snap lol

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> No that's normal mate
> They should stay at full beam until you pull the stalk back
> 
> Can you
> ...




















these are the only things i have enabled in VCDS...
sorry for the late replies but its because of the hour i work i dnt get to post a lot or get to work with the car alot..

is there a mobile app i can download to enable to me to reply quicker directly from my phone?? i have an iphone 5s btw


----------



## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Get tapatalk mate

Tick byte 0 bit 1 mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## RealistJayTT (Feb 20, 2015)

1wheelonly said:


> Get tapatalk mate
> 
> Tick byte 0 bit 1 mate
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


thanks.. thought that might have been the case but didnt want to start enabling random things until i am sure of there purpose


----------



## Jdotd (Nov 28, 2018)

Hi was wondering if someone could help me with a problem I have on my dash to do with adaptive headlights being defective

I bought a 2007 mk2 TT 3.2 v6 and it came with xenon/drl led units already installed on it and I know this model was factory fitted with halogens.
The lights work Perfectly fine, but there is a constant yellow flashing light on the dash saying "adaptive light defective" and also when I turn on ignition on it sometime says "right turn signal defective" but when I indicate right the light on dash goes off but the "adaptive light defective" stays on constant.
I took to a few garages and they don't have a clue what to do so I'm stuck,.
I just need to find a solution to get this light removed as it will not pass mot next year even though lights work fine
Thanks for you help


----------

