# How to fit EBC discs and pads on the front...



## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

A selection of photo's to show how easy it is (as long as you can get the f****** wheels off)...

First make sure you have everything you need: pads, discs, brakedust spray, caliper paint and a 1/2" brush, copper grease, a stiff brush, lots of kitchen towel, an 18mm socket, a 7mm allen key, crosshead screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, big hammer and several chunks of wood, brake bleed tube, bottle and bleed spanner, and some latex gloves are useful










Now get the wheels off the ground.... note the use of a bit of 4 x 2 to make the ramp more gentle to avoid fouling the spoiler... this gets the car high enough to get the jack and stands under... and don't forget to chock the rears


































Next remove the wheels and spray liberally with brakedust remover spray (several times and wipe off between... the stiff brush is useful too)










Remove the spring, noting how it is seated










remove the guidecaps and then the guides with the 7mm allen key


















lift the caliper away, removing the old pad, and tie it out of the way to the suspension. Be careful not to twist or kink the brake cable (on the LH side you'll need to unplug the brake wear sense cable)










Now is a good time to push the piston back so you'll have room to put the new pads on (sorry no pic of this). To push the piston back, put the brake bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo 1 turn then with a chunk of wood press the piston back in as far as you can (about 1/4" showing) and then lock off the bleed nipple.. do this BEFORE you paint the caliper as brake fluid and fresh paint don't get on too well...

Now remove the carrier using the 18mm socket










Here is a comparison of old and new pads.... these pads were on their last legs


































Now remove the disc...undo the screw, which needs lots of WD40, and possibly an impact driver (tip: try doing the screw up first while tapping the end of the screwdriver with the hammer...)










Replacement is the reverse of the above...

Some other tips:

You will probably need 3 coats of paint on the calipers and carriers... and then touch it up after its back on the car. Don't paint the bits where the 'ears' of the pads locate or you'll only have problems fitting them later.

The retaining spring is a bugger to get back on without scratching the paint... with the new pads in its much tighter than with the worn ones... a pair of pliers helps to pull it into position...locate the ends in the holes first then manipulate it...you're less likely to scratch the paint this way (but it'll need a touch up after anyway)

If the wheels and/or discs are 'stuck' try bashing them from behind with a hammer through a lump of wood.... don't use the hammer direct (unless its a rubber headed mallet)

Before fitting the pads, copper grease the back of the pads and the edges of the runners, also clean the guide pins with a light emery rub and grease them too. Copper grease on the back of your alloy wheel where it mates with the disc and on the wheel bolts makes it easier next time...

Whan all is done, stand back and admire...


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

DAM DAM DAM.... you know what I wanted from you and forgot completely....

When the disc is off a picture of behind the hub showing the ABS ring!

to see how much extra clearence there is for bolts.

Dont suppose you took a pic or two?? :?

nice job on the fronts, are you doing the rears as well any time soon?

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Love_iTT (Aug 18, 2002)

http://www.********.co.uk/gallery/loveitt/safety.jpg
 



Chip_iTT said:


> . . .Copper grease on the back of your alloy wheel where it mates with the disc and on the wheel bolts makes it easier next time...


I seem to remember a thread a while back where the outcome was NOT to put copper grease on the threads of wheel bolts as this makes the torque reading inaccurate, I must admit that I did put copper grease on my wheel bolts but since then I haven't and I always take them off and put them on with a torque wrench and never have any problems with them binding.

Just my two penny worth.

Graham


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

Ok Graham I know it doesn't look very secure but I can assure you it is...

As to the copper grease... all the tyre places round here seem to do it...

Wak:

This help?


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

Nice write up, good timing to as I plan to do mine next job, Iâ€™m doing the rubber bushes on the front wishbones at the moment.

What EBC pads did you go for, are they red stuff non-ceramic :?:


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

those are the DP31330C red stuff ceramic...


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

Love_iTT said:


> I seem to remember a thread a while back where the outcome was NOT to put copper grease on the threads of wheel bolts as this makes the torque reading inaccurate, I must admit that I did put copper grease on my wheel bolts but since then I haven't and I always take them off and put them on with a torque wrench and never have any problems with them binding.
> 
> Just my two penny worth.
> 
> Graham


The back of my wheels have copper slip on them and the wheel bolts, and it has been Audi dealer maintained in the past so I would assume it is the norm to use it.

BTW Chip_iTT love those axle stands, where can I buy some like that


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

KenTT said:


> BTW Chip_iTT love those axle stands, where can I buy some like that


I made those in metalwork class some 30y ago... every car I have ever owned and few others have been up on those stands at one time or another... they are rather heavy but do the job


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## Love_iTT (Aug 18, 2002)

OK, it seems like I'm wrong, but I'm still not putting Copper grease on my wheel bolts although I do put a very light film on the back of the wheel.

Each to their own I guess.

Graham


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## clarko (Jan 18, 2005)

nice job chip_itt !
think you'll agree with me when i say they make such a difference to the car! I only had time to do 2 coats of Japlac on the rear - need to touch up this weekend!

J


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## Kell (May 28, 2002)

It doesn't say how you get the car off the ramps and onto the axle stands though. :wink:


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

oh that was easy...with my superhuman strength I held it up while stretching underneath with my elastic arm to place the stand... 

No, the ramp is only to get it high enough the get the trolley jack under, then lift, place stand, remove ramp.... getting it down is lift, place ramp, remove stand, drop it, drive off....


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## ronin (Sep 6, 2003)

how much for the discs and pads Irvine ?

ta


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

Well I got a great deal on eBay so Â£140 all in (but it was a one off), which is somewhere between Â£90 and Â£140 off what I've seen them advertised elsewhere. Best price I saw for all 4 wheels is Â£359 on eBay, and I've been quoted Â£179 for the rears only...

standard prices I got before:

Amd 395-98+VAT = Â£465.27 + p&p

Brakes4U 356.11+VAT postage free (10% discount) = 418.44

EBCBrakes Direct 356.11+VAT postage free (10% discount) = 418.44

GrahamGoode 356.11+VAT + 10.75 postage (10% discount) = 429.19

preformance.rallynuts 346.22 + VAT + 7.69 postage (12.5% intro discount) = 414.51


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## moonscale (Mar 10, 2005)

if you get in touch with brakes4u they will beat any price..i know ive done it.......


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## ratty (May 18, 2004)

Irvine

Did you jack the car off the ramps using the rubber jacking points (as showing at the top of your photo) ?










I want to lift mine but am uneasy about this after hearing of problems lifting here with trolley jacks.


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

yes, but what you can't see in the photo is the top block of wood on the trolley jack is a 4 x 4 x 2 piece with a recess to fit the rubber pad diameter and not quite as deep as the pad (so the weight is primarily on the pad but as it compresses the wood eventually butts up to the underside of the floor... and a recess to fit the trolley jack head - well there is now, the jack made its own holes to fit the teeth on the head... this is why the pads were introduced. On early TTs there were no pads just plastic bungs in the floor panel but when people jacked the car up with a trolley jack it damaged the underseal resulting in floor corrosion. However simple trolley jacks have a narrow head (mine's about 1.5" across), which punch through the pads as reported elsewhere, whereas a professional one has a rubber pad about 3-4" across (I went to the tyre shop and measured one) but can't find a source to fit my jack (at least not in the UK) so I made one from wood...


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## Dicky2 (Apr 24, 2006)

I've purchased a set of Eibach ( 30 mm ) lowering springs. ( Back & Front ) Is there a " How to " thread any-where or has any-one fitted them recently with pics ? Can't find anything on Wak's web site.

Cheers....

Davy...


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## jet:) (Nov 5, 2006)

Great How-To the pics are really handy 
Did you give the new pads any sanding to wear in or is it needed 8)


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## quattronics (Aug 30, 2006)

Chip_iTT said:


> To push the piston back, put the brake bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo 1 turn then with a chunk of wood press the piston back in as far as you can (about 1/4" showing) and then lock off the bleed nipple..


NO NO NO NO NO NO :evil:

This is the incorrect way to push the pistons back into the caliper, all you are doing is allowing air to enter the braking system and reduce braking efficency.
The proper way to push the pistons back into the caliper is

Open the bonnet, locate the reservoir on top of the brake master cylinder.
Remove the cap (its yellow)
Pay attention to the fluid level and carefully push the piston into the caliper, you will notice the fluid rise in the reservoir. Once you have pushed back all the pistons on all the calipers you are working on you will find you may have to remove some fluid from the reservoir.
Once the car is back down onto the floor press the brake pedal a number of times to reseat the pistons.


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

The best way to push the pistons back into the calliper, along with the previous instruction from quattronics, is by using a Paddle Disc Brake Piston Spreader, available from Machine Mart or similar.

Joe


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

Like so...
http://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=22888

Joe


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## TTCool (Feb 7, 2005)

PS This one is cheaper, Sealey (good make) the AK 711
http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php ... ts_id=5314

Joe


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## kevlo (Sep 6, 2009)

is there anyway to get the pics back up?


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## sporty1200 (Oct 19, 2010)

Just replaced my front pads. Thanks ChipTT, this post was hugely helpfull..


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## paul_cymru (Mar 22, 2006)

Some torque settings I've pulled from other posts:

Wheel bolts 120Nm/90ftlbs.
Guide pins* (renew) 28Nm/21ftlbs.
Carrier bolts 125Nm/92ftlbs (if reusing the bolt clean the ribs under the head).

* (UPDATE) Dropped into Audi for some guide pins, approx £14 per pin, and you need 4 for the front  The caliper carrier bolts were under a quid each.


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## chrissy101 (Oct 8, 2012)

Hi guys,
HELP!
Just had health check on my mk1 tt, the front dics need replaced
I take it that means pads as well, a much as i loved working on my mini
The tt scares the hell out of me!
So as much as your very well detailed pics and very clever fixing goes amazing!!!! Not for me. ..Can anyone 
Advise this girl where to get my dics and pads replaced, Audi want £399 plus £179 to supply and fit front only
is this the going rate... I live in west sussex
Thanks
Chrissy x
Hope this is ok to post this here :!:


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

I'm sure an Essex boy will be along soon, I can't recommend one myself. But have a look in the independent garage section on the front of the forum. It helped me find a good one and get excellent service there.
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=49

Brian


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## tom992 (Apr 1, 2013)

does anyone know why the pictures won't come up on this thread? thanks


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

tom992 said:


> does anyone know why the pictures won't come up on this thread? thanks


The pictures seem to have dropped off Chip's server. I've sent a message to him but he's not visited for a while.


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## iktank (Aug 20, 2011)

quattronics said:


> Chip_iTT said:
> 
> 
> > To push the piston back, put the brake bleed tube on the bleed nipple and undo 1 turn then with a chunk of wood press the piston back in as far as you can (about 1/4" showing) and then lock off the bleed nipple..
> ...


NO NO NO NO NO NO
With modern brakes which have ABS you do NOT push the pistons back without first slackening the bleed nipple, U push the pads back such that u loose small amount of brake fluid out of the nipple, if you dont you will end up having to purchase a new ABS valve. Once pads fitted and brakes pumped refill reservoir. I know cause I had to replace then on my Landy due to stupidly just pushing back the pistons


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

iktank said:


> quattronics said:
> 
> 
> > Chip_iTT said:
> ...


There's no mention of this in the Audi workshop manual for the TT. No mention of opening niples. It just says to push the piston back being careful not to let the master reservoir overflow if it's been topped up. I've done this many times without problem. The only reason I've previously seen for opening the nipple is to remove old fluid which is more likely to be water contaminated at the cylinder end due to the heat and large seal area exposed to the elements. However, you should be replacing your fluid every two years anyway so it shouldn't build up.


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## m0rph_TTR (Jan 4, 2015)

Does anybody have an updated version of this with some pics?

Cheers


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

m0rph_TTR said:


> Does anybody have an updated version of this with some pics?
> 
> Cheers


I'll try and get them up later


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

There you go - pictures re-loaded.

If you see any other missing pictures on any of Chip_iTT's How To threads then let me know on the Knowledge base suggestions thread with a link. Thanks


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