# Car care - Washing and Waxing your pride & joy



## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

I have put this on the Forum to offer a bit of comment or question and answer, but its main aim is to make it on to Bobfatâ€™s TT Portal as requested. I am in no way connected to nor have any interest in the companies or product manufacturers listed â€" theyâ€™re here as basic pointers

The full version is listed first as this really is the way to go, but there is a simplified version further down the page

Enjoy! 

Following my new car preparation description on the TT Forum, I was asked to impart some extra detail and a â€˜guideâ€™, as well as a simplified version for those slightly less obsessed!

Before I go any further, I must add that Iâ€™m neither a pro nor an expert, just an enthusiast keen on attention to detail. Much of what I have learned has come from Detailing World, along with advice from specialists such as Rich from Polished Bliss & Paul from Shine On Auto Detailing all coupled with a decent bit of experience

Iâ€™ll try not to get bogged down with too much info and attempting to explain all the whys and wherefores, but a bit of reasoning may help tie everything together. First of all, good practice and decent products are well worth the investment â€" they repay you in many ways. Secondly, once you have done a good preparation and slapped some good gear on you pride and joy, maintaining that quality of appearance is made a whole lot more effortless with great results far easier to achieve

Iâ€™ll use my personal example as the subject, but this applies to both new and old cars alike (paint correction aside). The suggested tools and products are merely what Iâ€™ve used â€" there are countless other equivalents that will eventually come down to individual personal taste and budget. Youâ€™ll notice that there are no Â£7000 pots of wax used here but you certainly wonâ€™t go far wrong with the items listed. Iâ€™ve named them to serve as starting points in a whole mind-numbing world of bottles, potions and poisons! You will find your own way after a while no doubt

*Stage 1 â€" Cleaning*

The eventual quality achievable by the rest of the process starts from here

Equipment: Hose, Gilmour Foamaster II, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, Meguiars Microfibre Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel

Products: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, Chemical Guys Maxi Suds

I employed this approach for a new car prep. I specifically asked the Dealership to only remove the stick-on protective coverings and not to clean the car thank you very much. I would advise this also if you are keen on making a new start on your cleaning & polishing regime. This will remove all your existing wax

1 â€" Rinse the car with a decent jet from the hose. I used to pressure wash, but better techniques have since laid that to rest. Start from the bottom up and soak everything first as this helps to soften all the dirt and crap. Rinse again from the top down looking to remove as much rubbish as you can

2 â€" Load the Gilmour with a 75%/25% Snow Foam / Maxi Suds mix and foam the car thoroughly. Allow to sit and soak, but not dry. Rinse then repeat

3 â€" The â€˜two-bucketâ€™ wash method. In short, this is a bucket of suds and a bucket of clean water with a grit guard in each. The idea here is to load your wash mitt with lots of suds, wash an area of the car and then rinse the mitt out in the clean water

When washing, the crap from the car gets drawn into the mitt, washed off in the clean water whilst the guards keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket and you reload your grit-free mitt to repeat

For new car prep or to â€˜start overâ€™, use Chemical Guys Citrus Wash as this strips all the sticky stuff / old waxes nicely away - it will be a tad too harsh for routine washing however

Again start from the top working down and use your â€˜best mittâ€™ for everything above the crease line on your doors and wings moving the mitt in lines from front to back as opposed to circles. Swap to another mitt for below this â€˜dividingâ€™ line, again working the mitt back and forth only. If you have the luxury of a third mitt (donâ€™t worry, you will in time!) then use this for the wheels

Do not endlessly rub your wash mitt backwards and forwards as there is no need. The surface should clean up fairly easily but if it isnâ€™t first time, a subsequent wash and dedicated cleaning products will do the job in time. The reasoning behind these methods is to avoid causing undue damage to or â€˜swirlingâ€™ your paintwork

4 â€" Rinse from the top down once again and repeat!

5 â€" Dry with Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel. Lay the towel flat on roof and drag in straight lines from front to back. Repeat this for all flat surfaces and wring out as necessary. Dry well whilst once again avoiding circular motions. Dry all door, boot and bonnet shuts after the main bodywork is dry too â€" the towel may get a tad mucky doing these areas but it will be heading for the washing machine after this stage anyway

*Stage 2 â€" Wheels*

A little extreme, but well worth it!

Equipment: Jack, Wheel brace, Chocks, Hose, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel, Meguiars / Clearkote Microfibre Applicator Pad, Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care, Microfibre Cloths

Products: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner, Autoglym Tar Remover, Klasse All-In-One, Chemical Guys Wheel Guard

Safety First. You need to be completely confident in jacking your car and fully conversant with correct jacking points and techniques as well as being diligent with wheel chocks etc. This of course is not only vital to protecting yourself, but beyond that, your car! â€˜Droppingâ€™ the thing would not be good

Remove, clean and replace one wheel at a time (or a side at a time if you have the equipment). Wash the whole wheel well with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash or even a 4:1 dilution of Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner if backs of wheels are really grimy and dirty. Use some Autoglym Tar Remover on any remaining stubborn spots. Avoid nasty Wonder Wheels type products as these are very acidic and not at all nice for your wheels

Work in a coat of Klasse All-In-One with an old microfibre cloth â€" use this to help clean things up nicely as well as form a good base for subsequent wheel wax. Buff off with a microfibre cloth. Apply three coats of Chemical Guys Wheel Guard with a microfibre applicator pad, allow to cure then buff off with a microfibre cloth between each coat

Give everything under the wheel arches (except brake discs and pads!) a good spray of Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care and wipe up excess with an old microfibre cloth

Replace the wheel(s) and move on to the next

*Stage 3 â€" Paint preparation*

With your paint now clean, this stage prepares the basis for your eventual shine and wax effectiveness

Equipment: Hose, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel, Microfibre Cloth

Products: Autoglym Tar Remover, Chemical Guys Speed Detailer and Clay Lube, Poly Clay, Poorboys Slick n Suds

1 â€" If you have tar spots present, Autoglym Tar Remover is an excellent product for removing the worst of these with little effort via a microfibre cloth

2 â€" Using a clay bar. For those who havenâ€™t used a clay bar before, this can be a little daunting! The theory goes that you rub a piece of specially designed â€˜clayâ€™ across your paintwork to â€˜draw outâ€™ all the contaminants. You need to ensure the surface is nicely washed and then subsequently very well lubricated (I mixed up my own spray bottle of â€˜super-lubeâ€™ containing 40% Chemical Guys Speed Detailer and Clay Lube, 40% Poorboys Slick n Suds and 20% water)

Working on a square foot at a time with the paintwork well lubed, gently ease the clay over the surface â€" once again back and forth in straight lines from front to back whilst regularly folding the clay in on itself. If you drop the clay on the ground, bin it and use another piece as grinding grit over your car is not good news! Below the â€˜dividing lineâ€™ on the doors and wings, follow the lines of the arches and use vertical movements on the doors as this improves reflections on those areas

The front of my car in particular and all the glass were audibly â€˜roughâ€™. I could hear the clay moving over this surface as it dragged the crap away. I could tell the job was done when that telling sound fell silent

Remember â€" itâ€™s vital to keep the area youâ€™re working on and the clay well lubed up and discard if dropped!

3 â€" Wash the car down again after claying with a rinse off, two-bucket method wash using Poorboys Slick n Suds and your best mitt followed by another rinse and dry with another Der Wunder towel

*Stage 4 â€" Polish or Glaze*

Equipment: Meguiars / Clearkote Microfibre Applicator Pads or German Applicator Pads, Microfibre Cloths

Products: Polish or deep cleanser of choice, Chemical Guys EZ CrÃ¨me Glaze

At this point you may well wish to use a deep cleansing paint cleaning product or a polish, but I opted straight away for a Glaze knowing that the surface was beautifully clean by this stage. If you want to use any of these products, then follow the manufacturerâ€™s guidelines and apply using a decent applicator pad and buff with a microfibre cloth as below

Using the Chemical Guys EZ CrÃ¨me Glaze was a dream after the more preparatory processes carried out so far â€" it feels like this is where the magic begins! An even application (not too thick or heavy) of the Glaze is easily achieved using a decent quality microfibre applicator pad, again starting from the top down, working in straight lines back and forth from front to back (I even went so far as to add this product to the very lovely looking door shuts!). As with all polishes, glazes and waxes, take care not to smear the product all over your black plastic trim and rubber parts â€" the square edges of the German Applicator Pads really help on this front

Allow the Glaze to dry to a haze and buff off with a nice plush microfibre cloth

*Stage 5 â€" Waxing*

Following the previous paint enhancement, you now need to lock this finish in and offer everything some decent protection

Equipment: German Applicator Pads, Microfibre Cloths

Products: Chemical Guys 50/50 Connoisseur Paste Wax, Collinite #915 Marque D'Elegance Premium Auto Wax

For me, with winter approaching, decent protection and durability were key. There may well be more â€˜blingâ€™ products available, but these are both excellent

A thin application of Chemical Guys 50/50 Connoisseur Paste Wax with a German Application Pad (red side) in the usual from top down, straight lines, front to back on the horizontal surfaces, round the arches and vertical on the sides was a quick and easy process. The coat dried for 20 minutes before being buffed off with a soft Microfibre Cloth. Repeat again to get two good coats on there

If you can wait 24 hours for the applied coats of 50/50 to fully cure before adding the top coat of Collinite, then all the better, but you will need a rinse, soapy wash, rinse and dry before applying the final coat â€" you donâ€™t want to be grinding dust and particles into your pristine paint at this stage!

Once again, using the red side of another German Applicator Pad you will need to apply the Collinite #915 Marque D'Elegance Premium Auto Wax very sparingly and adding this to all surfaces as usual as well as all door shuts etc. Allow an hour to dry before buffing off with another Microfibre Cloth but beware, this final off took some effort! Whether I had applied it a tad too heavily or let it sit too long (90 minutes) or what Iâ€™m not sure, but it took some shifting! However, it certainly did give me full confidence that this was a product designed to last

*Stage 6 â€" The Details*

The overall effect is greatly enhanced with some attention to detail

Equipment: Tyre Dressing Applicator Sponges, Microfibre Cloths

Products: Chemical Guys New Look Trim Gel, Autoglym Glass Polish

The time spent waiting for your wax coat(s) to haze before buffing can be put to good use by having a cup of tea. Beyond that, you can also turn your attention to getting some good product on your black plastic trim and tyre walls such as Chemical Guys New Look Trim Gel

Before doing your tyres, get a fourth and final coat of Chemical Guys Wheel Guard on the face of your alloys and then use a Tyre Dressing Applicator Sponge to apply a suitable amount of Chemical Guys New Look Trim Gel on there. The pros suggest warming the surface with a hairdryer before and after applying this stuff to get it â€˜locked inâ€™ â€" I stopped short of process that I must admit, but now doubt it will come one day!

Carefully use the points and edges of a Tyre Dressing Applicator Sponge to get all the grilles, trim and rear valance around the car done with some Chemical Guys New Look Trim Gel before cleaning all the glass with Autoglym Glass Polish. This is an easy to use product that requires a little application and a rub with a microfibre cloth around all windows before turning the cloth to a dry side and taking off dried product in another lap of the car

Buff that last coat of Guard off the wheels and return attention to shining up your last coat of wax

*Interior*

Equipment: Hoover, Microfibre Cloths

Products: Aerospace 303 Protectant, Gliptone Liquid Leather Conditioner

Hoover out the interior. Apply some Gliptone Liquid Leather Conditioner with a microfibre cloth to all leather (not Alcantara if you have it) sections

Spray a decent amount of Aerospace 303 Protectant onto a microfibre cloth and wipe all dash and door panels. This is good stuff as it cleans and protects with being over the top or â€˜stickyâ€™ as perhaps a Cockpit Shine type product could be. Once the cloth is nice and damp with 303, a wipe over the Alcantara will not go amiss

*Future maintenance*

Equipment: Hose, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, Meguiars Microfibre Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel, Microfibre Cloth

Products: Poorboys Slick n Suds, Chemical Guys Speed Detailer

Once youâ€™ve done yourself and your pride and joy justice with an excellent preparation and protection process, subsequent maintenance of that is straight forward. It requires the same quality gear and good techniques, but outstanding results are possible in little over an hour!

Adopt the usual good wash technique:- Rinse off the worst with a decent powered hose, two bucket method using Slick n Suds with â€˜poshâ€™ mitt above the door and wing cut-off line and your reserve mitt for below and the wheels remembering to not continuously scrub back and forth but to simply wash the crap away into the mitt and rinse it out

Der Wunder Towel dry all over using drag techniques and gentle movements then cleaning off all door shuts with your damp towel. Spray all over with Chemical Guys Speed Detailer (bodywork, windows, wheels, tyres the lot) and quickly buff off with a Microfibre Cloth. Pack up, stand back and admire a stunning finish in no time

Repeating this when needed should see you right for three months before youâ€™ll be looking to de-tar (if required) and re-wax. A yearly strip back, re-prep, re-glaze and re-wax will keep things very nice indeed!

Looking after your microfibre towels, cloths and applicators is very straightforward. Simple run them through the washing machine but do not conditioner or tumble-dry as this has a detrimental effect on the microfibre integrity

Remember, all of this hose pipe, two-bucket method, Sheepskin wash mitt, softy suds, drying towel and microfibre cloth malarkey all centres on protecting your carâ€™s surface from â€˜owner-abuseâ€™! Stone chips and perhaps the odd scuff are inevitable, but most swirling is caused by inappropriate technique and tools and this defect is not so easily hidden with a little touch-up paint

If we take things to the extreme, a stiff-bristled yard broom would certainly get your car clean, but just think of the surface damage it would impart! Be warned though, once you lock on to this whole new level, lots of products start to regularly appear on the garage shelves and it can all get rather obsessive! I openly admit to having always looked after my cars and readily confess that I only ever saw clean and shiny whilst thinking that swirls etc were just how cars looked! Since being shown the difference a couple of years ago, it stands out a mile and Iâ€™ve not been the same since! A couple of examples:

Swirls and scratches:









No swirls or scratches:









Swirls and scratches:









No swirls or scratches:









As the above suggests, if your car is unfortunately already suffering from this, then all is not lost â€" it can be â€™correctedâ€™. Iâ€™ve had a bit of a dabble in this area, but am nowhere near qualified to offer any advice. A professional detailer would be able to sort this. A couple I can happily recommend are: Polished Bliss & Shine On Auto Detailing but once these guys have worked their magic for a couple hundred quid, you will need to employ a better wash regime to maintain that quality of finish

The cost of all this kit and products is not inconsiderable, but much of the investment will last a long time however. The build quality of the Gilmour Foamaster II installs confidence and even after two coats of 50/50 paste wax, I canâ€™t even see that Iâ€™ve touched the tin! Add to this the job-satisfaction rewards it gives, the carwash bills it saves and value being maintained, it pays for itself in many ways. I get way more out of car ownership now than just driving â€" and considering the investment, that can only be a good thing 

*By way of a simplified version, I have put the following togetherâ€¦*

First up, I would seriously, strongly recommend the full wash and paint preparation stages as well as the in-depth protection as there really are no shortcuts to a high quality job, however if you really canâ€™t afford your major investment that level of attention, then please do not fall below the basic techniques and equipment as outlined below:

*Stage 1 â€" Washing*

Equipment: Hose, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, Meguiars Microfibre Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel, Microfibre Cloth

Products: Poorboys Slick n Suds, Autoglym Tar Remover

1 â€" Rinse the car with a decent jet from the hose. I used to pressure wash, but better techniques have since laid that to rest. Start from the bottom up and soak everything first as this helps to soften all the dirt and crap. Rinse again from the top down looking to remove as much rubbish as you can

2 â€" The â€˜two-bucketâ€™ wash method. In short, this is a bucket of suds and a bucket of clean water with a grit guard in each. The idea here is to load your wash mitt with lots of suds, wash an area of the car and then rinse the mitt out in the clean water

When washing, the crap from the car gets drawn into the mitt, washed off in the clean water whilst the guards keep the grit at the bottom of the bucket and you reload your grit-free mitt to repeat

Again start from the top working down and use your â€˜best mittâ€™ for everything above the crease line on your doors and wings moving the mitt in lines from front to back as opposed to circles. Swap to another mitt for below this â€˜dividingâ€™ line, again working the mitt back and forth only

Do not endlessly rub your wash mitt backwards and forwards as there is no need. The surface should clean up fairly easily but if a few tar spots remain, then simply wipe them away with a little Autoglym Tar remover on a microfibre cloth. The reasoning behind these methods is to avoid causing undue damage to or â€˜swirlingâ€™ your paintwork

3 â€" Dry with Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel. Lay the towel flat on roof and drag in straight lines from front to back. Repeat this for all flat surfaces and wring out as necessary. Dry well whilst once again avoiding circular motions. Dry all door, boot and bonnet shuts after the main bodywork is dry too â€" the towel may get a tad mucky doing these areas but it will be heading for the washing machine after this stage anyway

*Stage 2 â€" Protection *

Equipment: German Applicator Pads, Microfibre Cloths, Microfibre Applicator Pad

Products: Chemical Guys 50/50 Connoisseur Paste Wax, Chemical Guys Wheel Guard

An even application (not too thick or heavy) of the Chemical Guys 50/50 Connoisseur Paste Wax is easily achieved using a German Applicator Pad, again starting from the top down, working in straight lines back and forth from front to back (I even went so far as to add this product to the very lovely looking door shuts!). As with all polishes, glazes and waxes, take care not to smear the product all over your black plastic trim and rubber parts â€" the square edges of the German Applicator Pads really help on this front

Whilst the wax is drying to a haze, apply a coat of Chemical Guys Wheel Guard to the wheels with a microfibre applicator pad

Buff everything off with a nice plush microfibre cloth

*Future Maintenance*

Equipment: Hose, Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt, Meguiars Microfibre Wash Mitt, two buckets & grit guard, Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel, Microfibre Cloth

Products: Poorboys Slick n Suds, Chemical Guys Speed Detailer

Adopt the usual good wash technique:- Rinse off the worst with a decent powered hose, two bucket method using Slick n Suds with â€˜poshâ€™ mitt above the door and wing cut-off line and your reserve mitt for below and the wheels remembering to not continuously scrub back and forth but to simply wash the crap away into the mitt and rinse it out

Der Wunder Towel dry all over using drag techniques and gentle movements then cleaning off all door shuts with your damp towel. Spray all over with Chemical Guys Speed Detailer (bodywork, windows, wheels, tyres the lot) and quickly buff off with a Microfibre Cloth

I have acquired all of my kit and products over time from all of the following sites and can readily recommend all or any of them:

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

http://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk

http://www.carwashnwax.co.uk


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## treblesykes TT (Jul 11, 2007)

Is this compulsory if we want to stay members of the forum? :lol:


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## ricka (Mar 31, 2007)

Good work Janitor, although this is a bit 'extreme' for me it's certainly impressive.

I'm sure this is going to be very handy for alot of folks on here for a long while to come!!

Really good stuff [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

treblesykes TT said:


> Is this compulsory if we want to stay members of the forum? :lol:


It's a compulsory option... but not a mandatory choice [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

ricka said:


> Good work Janitor, although this is a bit 'extreme' for me it's certainly impressive.
> 
> I'm sure this is going to be very handy for alot of folks on here for a long while to come!!
> 
> Really good stuff [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


Thanks ricka - is the simple version also too extreme..?


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## ricka (Mar 31, 2007)

Hi (again) Janitor, yes the simple version is for me I think for the moment.

:wink:


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## BobFat (Jul 24, 2007)

*HOLY SHIT ! *  'ere Rebel & Tosh, wot u make of this NUTTER ! 

Its going to take me until Xmas to get that into HTML on my site. In fact my ISP might not be able to handle it, how much storage will that take up !!!!

Haha, only kidding m8. Great stuff, i'll replicate this and put it on the site. So no comment from me on this as I'm not going to read it until I start the translation.

Right, i'm off to cry now as I try and get this update to the site sorted 

8)


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## sane eric (Jul 19, 2007)

Janitor - I know I nagged for this, and it is much appreciated. That's next weekend sorted. Seriously.

Thanks again.


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## Sirus (Oct 11, 2007)

F**k me Janitor, do you get out much!!!?

Although from what I gather, owning a Phantom colour TT could well involve some or all of the above EVERY week to keep it clean..

Why did I not order stick to my gut feeling and order Silver..? :?

-------------------------------------------------

ordered TTC 2.0 FSi, Phantom Black, 18's, Cruise, Pkng Sensors, Alcantara, Bose, iPod


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Sirus said:


> F**k me Janitor, do you get out much!!!?
> 
> Although from what I gather, owning a Phantom colour TT could well involve some or all of the above EVERY week to keep it clean..
> 
> Why did I not order stick to my gut feeling and order Silver..? :?


 :lol: I do get out... more than I'd like to in truth, but it's just me I'm afraid - 'in for a penny, in for a pound' or an 'all or nothing at all' type of character

Good practice is even more important for dark cars mate, they'll show swirling etc really badly. Silver helps to hide things but not having there in the first place is better of course. Make sure you get good kit, use it properly and all will be much better [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

BobFat said:


> *HOLY SHIT ! *  'ere Rebel & Tosh, wot u make of this NUTTER !
> 
> Its going to take me until Xmas to get that into HTML on my site. In fact my ISP might not be able to handle it, how much storage will that take up !!!!
> 
> ...


[smiley=jester.gif]

Let me know if you need anything else :lol:


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

sane eric said:


> Janitor - I know I nagged for this, and it is much appreciated. That's next weekend sorted. Seriously.
> 
> Thanks again.


No problem matey, a pleasure in fact! (well, almost)

If you want anything clarified, give me a shout. Other than that, get stuck in!

Good lad [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## FinFerNan (Feb 28, 2007)

Fantastic info Clive. I have to admit I am drawn to the dark side of detailing but so far I have resisted.

I can see me wanting to clay the car at some point. I am very careful but I have noticed a few swirl marks under the petrol station lights. I guess at that point I will decide to not bother or go full hog (a man after your own heart really)


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## Mack The Knife (Jun 14, 2007)

Amazing Clive!

I have sent you a PM.


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## Sirus (Oct 11, 2007)

Cheers Janitor, yes I'll be using ALL your tips to get that sheen!!!


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## penfold (Nov 5, 2007)

I can't help but be glad I ordered it in silver...

Seriously, I'd love to get stuck into this, but honestly cannot see when I would get the time. Admittedly it's all about priorities, but with our house still a mess even 12 months after moving in, there are just too many jobs on... 

All the same, thanks Janitor, I'll keep it in mind.


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## jbell (May 15, 2006)

Janitor said:


> sane eric said:
> 
> 
> > Janitor - I know I nagged for this, and it is much appreciated. That's next weekend sorted. Seriously.
> ...


Do you want to come and do mine


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

I wash my pride and joy everyday in the shower. I'm not going to say how often i polish it - but i don't use Autoglym or anything like that. I've not seen any swirl marks as yet in my sack. I'll have a good look tonight.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Greta post Janitor and thanks for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive how-to.

But, unless I've read your post incorrectly, you've missed a bit.  :wink:


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## Singletrack (Aug 1, 2007)

Great stuff Janitor - you clearly have the soul of a detailer. I follow very similar processes...just do it almost exclusively with Zaino products. I stopped the two bucket washing system as I wash so often and have only very light soil on the car. My preference is for 100% cotton towels to dry and polish.

Admittedly, I have not removed the wheels since I traded my Saab cabrio for the volvo...the wheels on the Range Rover weight a ton and the car is a b*itch to jack....

Bottom line...I am very impressed and impatient to get all Zen with my new toy.


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## modernTT (Aug 9, 2007)

Great write up!!! Now only if I could get my lazy A$$ to be as dedicated as you! cheers to u anyhow! [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

FinFerNan said:


> Fantastic info Clive. I have to admit I am drawn to the dark side of detailing but so far I have resisted.
> 
> I can see me wanting to clay the car at some point. I am very careful but I have noticed a few swirl marks under the petrol station lights. I guess at that point I will decide to not bother or go full hog (a man after your own heart really)


Mwwhhhaaaahaha! Go on, go on, you know you want to! It is very rewarding but like pretty anything car related, has a nasty habit of lightening oneâ€™s wallet with consummate ease

Clay is good â€" its main purpose is in preparing the surface for good sealant / wax. The more contaminants there are, the less your colour and finish shine through. If the surface is very smooth to touch to begin with, then a decent wash and pre-wax cleaner will be fine

The swirls will only be banished with some paint correction carried out by a rotary or orbital machine â€" much practice is needed to confidently wield one of those around your P&J, but very achievable as long as you get plenty pf practice on something less valuable first... or get a pro in to sort them [smiley=thumbsup.gif] After all of that, good technique and sympathetic gear is king


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Mack The Knife said:


> Amazing Clive!
> 
> I have sent you a PM.


Cheers Mack  I replied to your PM - are you any further down the line..?


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Sirus said:


> Cheers Janitor, yes I'll be using ALL your tips to get that sheen!!!


Good lad... you know it makes sense!


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

penfold said:


> I can't help but be glad I ordered it in silver...
> 
> Seriously, I'd love to get stuck into this, but honestly cannot see when I would get the time. Admittedly it's all about priorities, but with our house still a mess even 12 months after moving in, there are just too many jobs on...
> 
> All the same, thanks Janitor, I'll keep it in mind.


True enough Penfold, true enough 

It is all about priorities, but I always make time for things I want â€" although I work hard for it, I guess Iâ€™m quite fortunate to have the laid back and flexible lifestyle that I do, but am always grateful


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

jbell said:


> Do you want to come and do mine


Yes, yes I do! Itâ€™s not far is it..?

Payment? Nah, donâ€™t worry about that mateâ€¦ a set of those 19 reps you have on offer will do just fine [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Toshiba said:


> I wash my pride and joy everyday in the shower. I'm not going to say how often i polish it - but i don't use Autoglym or anything like that. I've not seen any swirl marks as yet in my sack. I'll have a good look tonight.


Glad to hear it Tosh, personal hygiene is every bit as important as car careâ€¦ wanker


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

VicTT said:


> Greta post Janitor and thanks for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive how-to.
> 
> But, unless I've read your post incorrectly, you've missed a bit.  :wink:


Thanks Brian 

Missed a bit..? Nah, not a chance

I could be wrong though - I thought I was once... but I was mistaken [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Singletrack said:


> Great stuff Janitor - you clearly have the soul of a detailer. I follow very similar processes...just do it almost exclusively with Zaino products. I stopped the two bucket washing system as I wash so often and have only very light soil on the car. My preference is for 100% cotton towels to dry and polish.
> 
> Admittedly, I have not removed the wheels since I traded my Saab cabrio for the volvo...the wheels on the Range Rover weight a ton and the car is a b*itch to jack....
> 
> Bottom line...I am very impressed and impatient to get all Zen with my new toy.


Thanks Tracko â€" like minds then and all that! 

Am thinking about getting some Monster Fluffies / FBZ'z towels & colths actually and also have to admit that the Zaino is looming on the horizon!

Glad you appreciated the piece and enjoy the whole thing when yours arrives  Any moment now isn't it..? Bonus!


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

modernTT said:


> Great write up!!! Now only if I could get my lazy A$$ to be as dedicated as you! cheers to u anyhow! [smiley=cheers.gif]


Thanks Mod 

Sort that lazy A$$ - it's good for you!


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## guru6 (Sep 23, 2007)

Singletrack said:


> Great stuff Janitor - you clearly have the soul of a detailer. I follow very similar processes...just do it almost exclusively with Zaino products. I stopped the two bucket washing system as I wash so often and have only very light soil on the car. My preference is for 100% cotton towels to dry and polish.
> 
> Admittedly, I have not removed the wheels since I traded my Saab cabrio for the volvo...the wheels on the Range Rover weight a ton and the car is a b*itch to jack....
> 
> Bottom line...I am very impressed and impatient to get all Zen with my new toy.


Which Zaino products do you recommend?

Here in the US, I think its hard to find some of the products that Janitor recommends.


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## Molehall (Jan 8, 2003)

This thread is going to cost me a lot of money.

I'm not sure whether to 8) or


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Janitor said:


> VicTT said:
> 
> 
> > Greta post Janitor and thanks for taking the time to put together such a comprehensive how-to.
> ...


Hmmmm

Interior clean - present & correct
Exterior clean - present & very correct indeed
Wheels clean - present & correct
Wheel arches clean - present & correct
Under bonnet & engine clean - er, where did you hide that bit in your how-to???  Runs for cover lest a soggy sponge, oops I mean wash mitt, is heading my way.


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

VicTT said:


> Hmmmm
> 
> Interior clean - present & correct
> Exterior clean - present & very correct indeed
> ...


AH HA!!!

Fear not yonder Brian... I did all that don't you fear!

Added the CG New Look Gel to everything black under there and have since given everything the Aerospace 303 treatment

Can't you tell..?










[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

But, of course if you're suggesting that I missed that from the guide, then I guess I'm busted 

...I feel an edit coming on...


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Of course I meant the guide Clive  How could I possibly imagine that you'd omit the cleaning process on any part of the car.

I'll have to have a closer look at your guide as some of the products you mention are clearly worth considering. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Look out wallet - outgoing!


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Ah, its Spring, and a young mans fancy turns to...............carwashing and detailing ! 

Good guide, think my Meguiars needs a bit of upgrading


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

:lol: Cheers Aiden (and nice use of a phrase used elsewhere here today [smiley=thumbsup.gif])


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## Singletrack (Aug 1, 2007)

Molehall said:


> This thread is going to cost me a lot of money.
> 
> I'm not sure whether to 8) or


You want to spend money? Head down the path I'm on.

Got me a step down transformer, then an "Ultimate Detailing Machine" (DA polisher), proper "American" extension cord, (this is the part that gets really expensive), a range of Menzerna polishes, a range of polisher pads from orange (cut) to blue (finessing) both in 6.5" and 4" with appropriate backing plates. Meguiars Glaze, Meguiars NXT wax, various small detailing brushes including horsehair for fine work. Plus a dozen brand new DeWitt Litaer 100% cotton towels (white) for buffing. This excludes the specific soaps and various wheel cleaning brushes and other stuff I alredy have...

Car looks good though. :wink:


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Janitor said:


> :lol: Cheers Aiden (and nice use of a phrase used elsewhere here today [smiley=thumbsup.gif])


  Just ordered a shed-load of cleaning stuff online 

So my St. Patricks Day will now be spent claying instead of consuming alcohol :roll:

Then theres always tonight !


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Janitor said:


> VicTT said:
> 
> 
> > Hmmmm
> ...


That engine bay looks spectacularly clean ! 

Whats CG? :?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

CG = Chemical Guys, a make of cleaning etc product - as recommended by ummm, guess who and bought by me.


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## geo555 (Feb 5, 2008)

Full range of Chemical Guys stuff available here

www.carwashnwax.com


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Thanks lads


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Singletrack said:


> Got me a step down transformer, then an "Ultimate Detailing Machine" (DA polisher), proper "American" extension cord, (this is the part that gets really expensive), a range of Menzerna polishes, a range of polisher pads from orange (cut) to blue (finessing) both in 6.5" and 4" with appropriate backing plates. Meguiars Glaze, Meguiars NXT wax, various small detailing brushes including horsehair for fine work. Plus a dozen brand new DeWitt Litaer 100% cotton towels (white) for buffing. This excludes the specific soaps and various wheel cleaning brushes and other stuff I alredy have...


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Blimey, I got a semi reading that...

:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

AidenL said:


> Just ordered a shed-load of cleaning stuff online
> 
> So my St. Patricks Day will now be spent claying instead of consuming alcohol :roll:
> 
> Then theres always tonight !


God lad, you know it makes sense 

Enjoy!!!


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Janitor said:


> AidenL said:
> 
> 
> > Just ordered a shed-load of cleaning stuff online
> ...


Feck me, its hard to get tar off RS4s ! :evil:

The car may look good on them, but......... :roll:

Ive clayed the tar, tried Megs Bug and Tar remover, and still its there :evil:

I'd almost use petrol next, if I wasn't worried about the wheels :lol: White Spirits entered my mind too...... :lol:

I'm joking...........kinda...........


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

A designated tar remover would always be a better be option than clay for that task Aiden. It can be a bugger, but persevere with the tar remover and Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner diluted 4:1 with water (never tried Megs Tar stuff, but the AutoGlym one has worked fine for me. Another highly rated product is Tardis but that tends to be a trade product which is only available in quite large amounts)

From there, get few coats of specific wheel wax on them and things will be a bit easier in future. Decent wheel waxes are designed to withstand the additional heat cycles that they get from the brakes


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Janitor said:


> A designated tar remover would always be a better be option than clay for that task Aiden. It can be a bugger, but persevere with the tar remover and Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner diluted 4:1 with water (never tried Megs Tar stuff, but the AutoGlym one has worked fine for me. Another highly rated product is Tardis but that tends to be a trade product which is only available in quite large amounts)
> 
> From there, get few coats of specific wheel wax on them and things will be a bit easier in future. Decent wheel waxes are designed to withstand the additional heat cycles that they get from the brakes


Elbow grease then it seems  :?

Back to work for me then


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## geo555 (Feb 5, 2008)

Autoglym tar remover will do a better jod than the Megs one.


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## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

Don't be afarid to use white spirits...I do and have done for years, both on wheels and paint.

Been scorned for it - then I have no vested interest in promoting products :wink:

It's perfectly safe and will not harm the paint on wheel coatings; white spirit is NOT a solvent for any material used on the exterior bodywork or wheels! Simply wash after and reseal with whatever you use.
Just don't be tempted to use the likes of cellulose thinners -that can damage the paint

Keeping it simple really is the best way :wink:

Dave


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

I'm flippin' knackered now, just taking a break before I slap on the wax 

II'll sleep well tonight I think :lol:


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## Martin L (Jan 19, 2008)

AidenL said:


> I'm flippin' knackered now, just taking a break before I slap on the wax
> 
> II'll sleep well tonight I think :lol:


I don't think Denise will be so happy with your escapades :lol: :lol: 
Sounds like you're giving your car more attention. Could be costly matey :wink:


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

AidenL said:


> I'm flippin' knackered now, just taking a break before I slap on the wax
> 
> II'll sleep well tonight I think :lol:


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

...and there we have it...

Rebel's secret is finally outed


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Martin L said:


> AidenL said:
> 
> 
> > I'm flippin' knackered now, just taking a break before I slap on the wax
> ...


Its her birthday today too ! 

I don't think she would like me using the clay-bar on her !


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## AidenL (Nov 29, 2006)

Toshiba said:


> AidenL said:
> 
> 
> > I'm flippin' knackered now, just taking a break before I slap on the wax
> ...


I'm all smooth now ! 8)    :lol:


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## keithsto (Jun 8, 2007)

Just ordered a lambswool mit and some of that wheel wax.

I've got stacks of Autoglym stuff in the garage, so thought I might as well use that before getting too keen. The extra gloss protection stuff seems to do a real nice job after the super resin polish.

Any opinions on Autoglym stuff?


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## north_wales_tt (Nov 22, 2003)

Swissvax (ex swissol) has a good reputation - expensive :? but worth it.


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## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

north_wales_tt said:


> Swissvax (ex swissol) has a good reputation - expensive :? but worth it.


You'll spend more on inferior "off-the-shelf" products over the life of a tub mid range Swissvax wax....people are still on their original tub 4 years after buying their first!

High initial outlay - certainly, but cost per application is better than AG Megs etc 

Not to mention less work and sweat to use! Wax on -wax off in 40mins easily.

Dave


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## keithsto (Jun 8, 2007)

So with better weather on the way, and the associated flies etc. What is the best way of removing the bugs from the front of the car?


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## Raider (Sep 9, 2007)

keithsto said:


> So with better weather on the way, and the associated flies etc. What is the best way of removing the bugs from the front of the car?


Bugs??.....jees mine floated off in the rain days ago and still aint back....better weather..lol
Still the water is still beading and pouring off the bodywork and wheels after my mini Janitor session. Swissvax rules....8 hour cleaning session, wheels off the lot and the wax just lets you rinse the dirt off.......again and again and again


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## BobFat (Jul 24, 2007)

keithsto said:


> So with better weather on the way, and the associated flies etc. What is the best way of removing the bugs from the front of the car?


Take a lint free cloth, soak in hot water, lay on offending fly debries for a few minutes to loosen them up, wash off as normal with your best wash mitt (no sponges aloud). Job done ! Clean, simple and most importantly, will NOT be harmful to your body work.


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## keithsto (Jun 8, 2007)

Just gave my new motor its first wash.

I used some of that Wheel Guard as recommended by Clive.

Can I expect the brake dust to pretty much just hose off from now on then?


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Nice effort then Keith [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Mine are so easy to clean that they're actually a joy to do. Never really previously enjoyed wheel cleaning at all

I prepped mine from new with an acrylic base coat of Klasse All-In-One and then layered up three coats of CG Wheel Guard. The dirt & dust doesn't exactly spray off with a hose, but a simple wipe with a mitt (not the same one that you'd use for the roof, bonnet and top surfaces though ) and they come up as new

Such little effort required and still going strong after five 'winter' months with only one top up coat about six weeks ago 8)


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## Mysterio (Jan 20, 2006)

Not sure if this has been asked yet so sorry if it has (in a rush)

I have some Swissol Best Of Show Wax (the good stuff). When I collect my car, would it be worth applying some straight as soon as I get home?

(Do I need to clean it FULLY first, bearing in mind it will have been detailed at the Dealership)

Help appreciated.


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Humm... ideally, it will need 'stripping' â€" ie, thoroughly washed, clayed and prepped to ensure the best possible surface for your glaze and wax to adhere to and show off. Without good prep, you could put a Â£10k pot of wax on it and it will only ever look 'ok'

As for 'Dealer detail'... erm, how can I put this... RUN AWAY!!!

Nah, some are ok, but most haven't got a clue. The majority have a youngster rushing around 'detailing' their cars in half an hour flat. Who knows what equipment and products get used, but with such limited time and resource, it is pretty obvious why there are so many problems with Dealerships prepping cars

I was stood next to an R8 in a Showroom the other day - it was indeed clean, but covered in scratches & swirls and the Sales guy just couldn't 'see' it. If you're the type not to 'notice' or worry about this sort of thing, then I'd say just bang whatever you like on your motor as and when it takes your fancy


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## Merl (Jan 8, 2008)

Janitor....soume sound and quite fascinating advice on this thread but I wanted to ask you something.....

You can obviously spend a hell of a lot of time detailing your car, and get amazing results.......however, could you recommend the best "halfway house" for someone that just simply doesnt have as much time to spend? what could you do to the exterior in just an afternoon, say 3 hours or so on a regular basis?

Also, Im getting the free Autoglym treatment when mine arrives, and I know what you mention about how pooly some dealers can prep a car....however its the only freebe I could get off Audi so it will have to do the trick for now! Would you recommend it to be ok to leave it for a few weeks, then properly wash the car, clay it then glaze and wax it.....or get it done almost straight away?


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

I really don't know a great deal about the AutoGlym Lifeshine stuff Merl, so it wouldn't be fair to comment about the technicalities of it other than that I've never really 'bought' the benefits against regular care, but I guess it does hold something for those who only like to wave a hose at their car twice a year

I suppose as it's free, then why not, but I personally wouldn't want it

As for future care, as I said, I don't really know the full ins and outs therefore quite how subsequent claying and thorough cleaning would affect it I'm not sure

I get your point about not having the time of course. For me it's a bit of a passion, so I make time [smiley=thumbsup.gif] BUT, the whole basis for getting the surface well prepped and a good product on there is to make subsequent cleaning much easier 

Yes, I did a lot initially, but now it only takes an hour every now and then to get it absolutely pristine - wheels and everything! I buy right into the whole theory but even I'm surprised by just how easy it is to get it looking mint from a mucky state! A thorough spring clean will come again soon now that winter is done, but that will set it up again until full winter prep in November (not sure whether the next owner will carry that on though! :?)

As for a halfway house â€" well there is a simplified version outlined three quarters of the way down the original post on this threadâ€¦I hope itâ€™s perhaps not quite as intensive and of some use to you


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## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

Mysterio said:


> Not sure if this has been asked yet so sorry if it has (in a rush)
> 
> I have some Swissol Best Of Show Wax (the good stuff). *When I collect my car, would it be worth applying some straight as soon as I get home?*


Yes, but not without washing it first...it'll have all sorts of damaging dirt on the paint after the drive home!



Mysterio said:


> Do I need to clean it FULLY first, bearing in mind it will have been detailed at the Dealership)


Undoubtedly yes! 
First of all you don't know what the dealer will have applied. With BoS and all high end waxes it's imperative that you pre-treat with with cleaner fluid first (a proper wash and a light clay with a non-aggressive clay is a good idea too) 
The cleaner fluid is not a glaze - it's 3 products in one. An extremely effective paint cleaner, it will remove *anything* the dealer has applied. It's a superb polish and finally it's a "primer" for the wax.

Miss out the cleaner fluid stage and I'll guarantee the wax will not show off its full potential...you'll also fail to realise the full protection/durabilty qualities of the wax!
No shortcuts :wink: 
Consider telling the dealer to do no more than remove the protective plastics and give it a jet wash with TFR to remove any transport wax...don't allow them to dry it. 
Do it all yourself and save the potential grief of having a car with scratches and swirls:wink:

Dave


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## Raider (Sep 9, 2007)

Agreed with Dave and Janitor here...used to be a sponge and single bucket monkey pre TT but now I stripped mine down 1 week after collection...spent 8 hours doing it inside and out , double snow foam wash, two mitts from top to bottom and one for the wheels. Used a clay bar then a cleaner for post clay bar. Washed again with snow foam. Dried and then Swissvaxed with one coat of Saphire and then virosol`d the wheels when they where off, washed them down , dried and wheel waxed them with Autobahn Wheel Wax.
It looked better than the dealers effort which was a good one..i.e they didnt leave swirl marks and three weeks later after 1000 miles i gave it a wash down and a quick detail (1 hours work) and took it into dealer for an alloy change. Dealer asked me if i had used it all since collection.

Point is here it takes me an hour to wash and polish her up....the prep as the boys here will tell you is everything.
Worth every minute of effort knowing that all the dirt I collect driving it every day through country roads and two sets of minging long term road works at Havant and Portsmouth on the A27 / M27 is sitting on wax not the paintwork (so to speak)...


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## Mysterio (Jan 20, 2006)

Dave/Janitor

I've got some Swissvax cleaning fluid and best of show wax. I want a "watered down" version of cleaning my car as I don't have hours to spend on it (I've been made a Daddy recently  )

So, with the following equipment what would you do and in what order, in the least possible time (could manage half a day)

Karcher pressure washer, with feeder for shampoo etc

Bucket (!)

Johnsons Baby Shampoo

Virosol

Swissvax cleaning fluid

Swissvax best of show wax

& finally, just what IS the best product for dressing the tyre walls to ensure a showroom black finish?

Thanks in anticipation.


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## davidg (Sep 14, 2002)

Mysterio said:


> Dave/Janitor
> 
> I've got some Swissvax cleaning fluid and best of show wax. I want a "watered down" version of cleaning my car as I don't have hours to spend on it (I've been made a Daddy recently  )
> 
> ...


The other Dave here  
There is no watered down way you need to put the work in prep first then it is easy after . You can take two days to do it as long as you dont use the car over the two days , then you dont have to rush in one day

The more time you spend on the clay/ cleaner fluid stage the better , waxing after this is easy.


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## Alan W (Oct 8, 2007)

Yep, it's all in the preparation. :wink:

Waxing is the easy and fun part. 

Try Zymol Tyre for a natural looking deep satin black finish. It looks sooo much better than the high gloss products IMHO.

Alan W


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## Rebel (Feb 12, 2005)

Are you guy's all single?
I can't find the time, during the day, for all that cleaning and waxing.


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Mysterio said:


> Dave/Janitor
> 
> I've got some Swissvax cleaning fluid and best of show wax. I want a "watered down" version of cleaning my car as I don't have hours to spend on it (I've been made a Daddy recently  )
> 
> ...


Hi Mysterio

Good gear youâ€™ve got there for sureâ€¦ but as the guys mention above, there will be no substitute for conscientious preparation Iâ€™m afraid

Have you seen the â€˜slightly simplifiedâ€™ version on the first page here..? Your gear will be good for that approach

As for tyre products â€" there are some good ones which donâ€™t look too silly and shiny. The Chemical Guys New Look Trim stuff I use is great and Iâ€™ve no doubt that the Zymol kit will be bob-on too. Blackfire do a highly regarded one too

Enjoy!


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## Rebel (Feb 12, 2005)

Janitor, just a quick off-topic question....which hairshampoo do you use?


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## sane eric (Jul 19, 2007)

Janitor said:


> Have you seen the â€˜slightly simplifiedâ€™ version


Mmmmmmmm, simplified version.


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Rebel (Feb 12, 2005)

:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Chippy_boy (Jan 15, 2008)

Rebel said:


> Are you guy's all single?
> I can't find the time, during the day, for all that cleaning and waxing.


I have the time. I just can't be arsed.

Bucket of water, sponge, leather off. 20 minutes. Lovely. Well, lovely enough!


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## leejgilb (Feb 7, 2008)

Anyone fancy trying this??? Check the price!! 

http://www.vertar.com/car-care-exterior/wax-polish/zymol-royale-glaze/

Now that's for your Pride & Joy, Sir!


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## geo555 (Feb 5, 2008)

leejgilb said:


> Anyone fancy trying this??? Check the price!!
> 
> http://www.vertar.com/car-care-exterior/wax-polish/zymol-royale-glaze/
> 
> Now that's for your Pride & Joy, Sir!


Now here's a dilema.

A new tt or this?

http://zymol.co.uk/shop/item.asp?PID=1517&scID=25


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## leejgilb (Feb 7, 2008)

My TT is cancelled!!! This is the future!!! :lol:


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## sico (Feb 6, 2003)

Dont get me wrong I uze Zymol but only Carbon.

I think the people who buy 30,000 wax have more money than sense. I would like to see Zymol cost breakdown on thre production of this wax. I am certain it has the highest profit margin of any product known to man.


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## leejgilb (Feb 7, 2008)

sico said:


> Dont get me wrong I uze Zymol but only Carbon.
> 
> I think the people who buy 30,000 wax have more money than sense. I would like to see Zymol cost breakdown on thre production of this wax. I am certain it has the highest profit margin of any product known to man.


I think that people who spend Â£30k on wax more than likely don't wash their own cars either!


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

Chippy_boy said:


> Bucket of water, sponge, leather off. 20 minutes. Lovely. Well, lovely enough!


Yep, fair dues [smiley=thumbsup.gif] If it works for you then rock on


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## Janitor (Jul 2, 2007)

The Â£30k waxes - usually refillable for life from Zymol - are really for pros whose high-end customers happily pay a premium for so that their cars get the blingest, most expensive, must have product on their motor

I won't be splashing Â£30 let alone a thousand times that on a wax... well, not this week anyway


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## FinFerNan (Feb 28, 2007)

leejgilb said:


> Anyone fancy trying this??? Check the price!!
> 
> http://www.vertar.com/car-care-exterior/wax-polish/zymol-royale-glaze/
> 
> Now that's for your Pride & Joy, Sir!


Group buy any one?


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## sane eric (Jul 19, 2007)

geo555 said:


> leejgilb said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone fancy trying this??? Check the price!!
> ...


Holy sh1t.


----------



## Mysterio (Jan 20, 2006)

Incidentally, is anyone waiting for a break in the weather to clean their Car at the moment! :?


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## keithsto (Jun 8, 2007)

Question:

Is the correct order Polish, Glaze, Wax?

I've got some Glaze and some Wax as recommended by Clive and just wondering whether I should use some polish prior to this. I've got some Autoglym Super Resin Polish lying around in the shed.

The car has been prepped by the dealer, presumably with the lifeshine stuff.

Thanks


----------



## geo555 (Feb 5, 2008)

keithsto said:


> Question:
> 
> Is the correct order Polish, Glaze, Wax?
> 
> ...


I would recommend claying the car first, then polish, then glaze and finally waxing.
You could also add a sealant after the polish stage, but it all depends how much time you want to take.


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## Mysterio (Jan 20, 2006)

Please can this be made a sticky, it's got everything in it.


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## keithsto (Jun 8, 2007)

Right, I've been a busy bunny today.

After my 'first phase' (rain stopped play) of using Chemical Guys Wheel Guard the other week, I decided to give it the full works today.

Brake dust just wiped off a pice of cake, I'm well chuffed with the Wheel Guard 

I then washed the car (dont have 2 buckets to just tried to be careful with one) then applied a coat of Autogylm Super Resin Polish followed by a coat of Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (it said on the bottle its a sealant.)

I then used the Chemical Guys Creme Glaze and 2 coats of the Chemical Guys 50/50 wax.

I've never seen water bead on a car before where the drops just sit on the paint. It isnt normal beading, it looks like perfect little spheres of water.

Does anyone have an explanation of what the different things do? Polish, Sealant, Glaze and Wax?


----------

