# Won't start... tried a lot of things



## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Herw we go with another problem today.. Not that simple!
My car won't start up...

A short vid, even tho I doubt it can help:





I have vag com and have checked numerous things:
- No fault codes in any ECUs
- MAF readings are correct
- Temperatures sensor displays correct values
- Fuel pump relay works (i guess)... FUEL pump may be heard under the back seats

So for the battery. The car didn't want to start a couple of days ago.. It was an old battery what went flat now in these cold days. So I replaced it and it would start just start and run fine for 4 days. One thing to mention: once after a start, the revs would go up and down and then died. Otherwise okay. Yesterday the problem was there again. The new battery wasn't full enough because I didn't drive the car a lot, so I let it charge for 24 hours, hoping it will save the problem. Guess what? Today even with a full battery, it won't start up. Hell, I tell you!
The one thing that I didn't check are spark plugs and coils... Any advice what else may I check and what may be the source of this confusion? I have VAG-COM so I can also do some checks if needed.

Gotta borrow another car at the house now and hurry up for my exam  
Report back later... guess I'll have a lot of work on the car in the afternoon :lol:

Thank you guys!


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## malstt (Apr 18, 2007)

Had the same fault on mine, i changed the crank position sensor and the fuel pump relay on mine to fix it. Are you sure you have fuel to the engine ? I disconnected thew return fuel line on the fuel rail and gave the engine a quick crank (just to check it) and i had no fuel getting to the engine. New relay sorted it.


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## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

You need to assertain whats missing from the 4 important factors needed to run an engine - air, fuel, ignition & timing.

You can pretty much discount air unless you've got a huge blockage in your inlet track which is highly unlikely.

Timing should be ok providing your cambelt hasnt snapped.

So its a toss up between no fuel and no spark (ignition).

Both the things MalsTT suggest are good starting points.

Lee


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

malstt said:


> Had the same fault on mine, i changed the crank position sensor and the fuel pump relay on mine to fix it. Are you sure you have fuel to the engine ? I disconnected thew return fuel line on the fuel rail and gave the engine a quick crank (just to check it) and i had no fuel getting to the engine. New relay sorted it.


What he said! Brings back fond memories eh Mal 

Has the car been refusing to start at all after you've been driving it (got the engine hot)? I found when my speed sensor was on it's way out the car would start from cold fine, but then would refuse to start once I'd ran it and got it up to temperature. Although if it is that I'm surprised you're not getting a g28 speed sensor fault code, so it could be the fuel pump relay?
good luck!


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Did a little measurement with VAG-COM while trying to turn the car on and came up with this:









Looking at the information above:
- MAF and Air Flow is okay?
- Ign. timing is okay?
- Injection is also okay?

One strange thing is that the RPM is 0 /min. After I was checking these channels a couple of days ago, RPM would show up between 200-600 when trying to run. Is that a sign of a faulty G28?
The dashpod needle indeed shows somewhere between 0-500 RPM.

Now the answers:
@malstt: I hear the fuel pump everytime i try to start the engine, and looking at the Injection timing up i assume there it's okay. Can you describe the procedure you tried in more detail please? Don't know where to start looking for return fuel line 

@shell: Yes, reffering to my answer to malstt, the pump is working. It will most possibly be the spark then.

@Sickboy: Idk, I last drove it a couple of day ago after I changed the battery. It started fine with the new battery, drove it for a couple of miles, then next morning it wouldn't start anymore.

Is there a quick way to find out if it's a faulty relay without going out to buy a new one straight? :-|


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

I can show you a way of checking your speed sensor, you got a multimeter? let me dig it out......


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Sickboy said:


> I can show you a way of checking your speed sensor, you got a multimeter? let me dig it out......


Yes, I do have one 
Would be very happy if you could tell me how to measure the sensor. Thanks :wink:


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

Here you go, right now you got to find the plug! in front of your dip stick remove the plastic piece of trim held on by two screws. then using an allen key remove the metal plate it sits on. under there you will see three plugs in a row it's the grey one you want think it's in the middle. good luck!


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Resistance between 1 and 2 is 893 OHMs. That is within the specified operation range.
Resistance between 2 and 3, and, 1 and 3 is infinite. That's also within the range.

For on, I don't have VAG 1598/31 testbox so here it stop for me. Me now thinks it's not the G28 either :?


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

Sorry dude I'm out of suggestions, like I said I'd have thought it would be throwing up a fault code :? keep us posted on your findings!


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Thanks anyway for your help mate :wink: 
There must be a catch somewhere...

Could it possibly be the spark plugs? That's the only thing staying on my mind right now, besides if there is a way of testing the fuel pump relay (tho i think it isn't because the pump works).

I'll keep it posted if i come up with any changes/solutions. Of course any other hints are still welcome before going to the local specialist or the (god no [smiley=bigcry.gif] ) stealers


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Ran out of ideas... A local specialist is coming to pick it up tomorrow morning... I will report on here when any news.

Thanks for all the help, at least we tried!


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## Grahamstt (Jul 22, 2008)

Crank sensor is used for spark and to trigger injectors so without scope meter to test on car or speed sensor tester it might be quicker to just replace it, normally not an expensive item, dont know about TT cost tho.
If your removing it anyway check for dirt or debris on it (it's magnetic) first. Also check to see if its loose, if its not seeing the reluctor it wont code.
Can you check using vagcom if it is disabling the imobiliser? could it be the proximity sensor or the key? - you could try spare key.

hope you sort it Graham


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## malstt (Apr 18, 2007)

The return fuel line is on the left hand side of the fuel rail over the injectors (under the main engine cover) if you remove it and give the engine a quick crank it will prove your fuel pump. A new relay was about 28 quid and the crank sensor is about 85 quid. Hope you get it sorted mate i know what its like,. My car was off the road for a week before i got it sorted (with a load of hel from here) If you search my posts, look for one called help car wont start aand you'l find a bit info on there as well.


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## BFT - John (Sep 8, 2009)

If someone is picking up fair do's but:

Remove fuel line from injector rail and put in a bowl - Crank engine over - Any fuel coming out?


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Well it's already at my local mechanic and he is having a look at it right now  I'm expecting his call in a couple of hours and if he doesen't find anything... Well I'll just try this trick with the fuel line also  If that's not the case then here we go the stealer's [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Sniffing the exhaust is often a way to find out if petrol is getting through. You have definietely got fuel I presume?  Did you check all your fuses?


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Checked all fuses and everything.
Now the big surprise 
Relay and everything is okay - they found a problem on the fuel pump itself. It does spin but it does not push fuel. So all those toughts about removing the fuel line and checking the flow were correct!
Now I have to get a new pump... Anyone has a partnumber for 225 Coupe?


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Is this one okay:
8L9 919 051 G
?? :mrgreen:


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

Not sure of the number but it's 180 quid  might be cheaper minus the fuel sender but I doubt it :?


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

John-H said:


> Sniffing the exhaust is often a way to find out if petrol is getting through.


 . . and one way to get yourself lifted by "ra Polis" if you live in Glasgow! :lol:  :lol: [smiley=smash.gif]


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

rabTT said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > Sniffing the exhaust is often a way to find out if petrol is getting through.
> ...


 :lol: I thought they would be used to that sort of thing since the city of culture :wink:


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

Love these funny posts :lol:

Anyway, the pump is ordered and on it's way... Will report in this thread when any progress 

About time for me to fill my online garage with pictures of my TT now


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Mine's a 1999 225 too and I think I may have a fueling issue possibly caused by a weak pump. I was going to try and prove it first before forking out for a new pump.


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## BFT - John (Sep 8, 2009)

£180?!?! Should of asked Charlie if he had one on his shelves mate save a few quid.

I would of looked into making a Walbro 255ltr fit if that was possible too - Not done it on a TT yet....


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## BFT - John (Sep 8, 2009)

BTW glad to hear you have it sorted - It's all about as Lee said checking there is the main things to making an engine turn over. Fuel/Air/Spark and Compression.


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## malstt (Apr 18, 2007)

Glad you got it sorted mate.


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## egster (Sep 19, 2009)

One of them arrived two days ago. Guess which? :mrgreen: 









Got it fitted today and it didn't even cost me much :lol: 
34GBP - pump&shipping
30GBP - towing the TT and fitting
64GBP all together 

It's also the fuel sender which was causing me problems! Got new one with the pump.
I have a feeling that the car is pulling better, but maybe it's just that I was used to drive the big A6 for a while.
So, the problem sorted! Thanks everyone for help


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