# Roadster CCM replacement



## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Just fitted my replacement refurbished CCM to my Roadster. For the first time since I bought the car ( nearly three years ) I have remote locking ! To anyone else thinking of replacing this module here are a few tips -

You need to use like for like part number ( if your module ends in B you need to use one with a B )
Clean up all the female contacts on the connections on the wiring loom in the car
Do all work from inside the boot after removing the letterbox opening, easier in a FWD as boot is deeper
The CCM doesn't need to be coded to the car as I was led to believe
The keys need to be resynched to the car, you need two keys to do this

The hardest part was removing the old CCM from the car. With the water ingress on to the module it had caused the male and female connections to corrode and were fused together ( there was a green powdery residue in the connectors ) Once I managed to seperate them they needed to be cleaned so that it made a proper contact with the new module. Not much room to work but was pleased with end result. Don't have to manually open the car to get to the boot release button now either.


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

Hi there,

I'm looking to pull my one out tomorrow morning as I think it's suffered water damage from the roof glass debonding from the canvas. I found a huge puddle submerging the central locking module behind the subwoofer. What was the source of your water problem?

My main problem is the car works OK but, as the key remote doesn't work, the alarm isn't switching off and goes off when you start the car. How did yours not?

How did you refurbish the CCM? I Was going to pull mine out and give it a clean up and see if that helps.

Regarding the key re-sync, I only have the single key for this car but if I get the CCM working I guess that shouldn't be a problem!

Are there any bright ideas to waterproofing the module to prevent it from happening again?

James


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi, my drain tubes were blocked causing the collector trays to overflow on to the CCM. Some of the male pins had corroded so much that they were gone. You could take it and try cleaning it with contact cleaner if the pins are ok. There is a small PCB at the end of the CCM which is the RF board, this controls the remote locking. You can unsolder one from a coupe CCM and resolder it to your roadster CCM if you are handy with a soldering iron. I bought my CCM from someone on eBay. Worked first time. Take it your roof, wind deflector etc doesn't work ?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Forgot to say that I have wrapped a polythene bag around the CCM before refitting it to the car. Don't know if it will stop water ingress again but better than what Audi did in the factory.


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

Cool I will get out there in a bit and see what is what.

No my hood, deflector (although the cable has snapped) etc. all work fine. Literally the only thing left now that is a problem is the remote locking and alarm not switching off. I think mine was caused by the glass in the roof debonding and there were two holes at each corner i could put my hand through!

Will report back!


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

I'd say wrapping it in a bag is a bad thing as it doesn't allow it to breathe and the temp and material of the bag will promote condensation settling within it and it will just speed up the process of it happening again.

Just clear the drain holes and prevent the water build up happening again.aaa


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

I was wondering about that as I was doing it and figured that it couldn't be any worse than it was. I have replaced the drain tubes with the newer improved versions. Will remove the poly bag [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

I'm about to poke my drain tubes with some bike cable outer as suggested on here.

Tell me more about newer superior versions.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

auspicious_character said:


> I'm about to poke my drain tubes with some bike cable outer as suggested on here.
> 
> Tell me more about newer superior versions.


They are a lot more robust. The original ones are basically very thin polythene which rot/block and leak. Be careful when clearing them, they are flimsy. They drain out inside the wheel arch near the bottom. Pull the arch liner forward to see the drain hole ( they are nearest to door if that makes sense )


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

Right got the bugger out - I didn't need to take the box off as it just came out!

There were a few bits of corrosion on the plugs/pins but nothing major as per the pictures. The board itself had no sign of any damage to it...so I cleaned it all up and still not able to switch the alarm off or get the key working!!

How did yours look?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Mine had slightly more corrosion on it than yours. Can't help you with the alarm problem. I disconnected mine due to battery corrosion.


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

I can't see any obvious solder cracks but a reflow wouldn't hurt I guess. If you're adventurous you can try the good old flux/tinfoil/oven trick or otherwise find a mobile phone or laptop repair place with reflow equipment

if you want you can send it up to scotland and I'll reflow it for free. got a dark IR rework station sitting here


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Ganja47 said:


> I can't see any obvious solder cracks but a reflow wouldn't hurt I guess. If you're adventurous you can try the good old flux/tinfoil/oven trick or otherwise find a mobile phone or laptop repair place with reflow equipment
> 
> if you want you can send it up to scotland and I'll reflow it for free. got a dark IR rework station sitting here


Hi, tried to PM you but guess you don't have access yet. Would like to have found out about reflow and if it would help my faulty CCM. I am in Scotland.


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

should really make that donation, I'll sort it after work tonight.
I live in beautiful Crail and travel a lot for my work between St Andrews, Dundee, Perth and Aberdeen if that's of any help

regarding if it would help or not I can't answer that but it's usually the first thing I try with older electronics that aren't working or have been moisture damaged. old solder likes to crack and dry out and also the reflow usually evaporates any moisture left in or under components


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Yes know where you are. Was on holiday up that way two years ago. Visited St Andrews and Anstruther. I am in Dumfries quite near the border at Carlisle. Will wait and see when you have PM access. Thanks.


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

So the microswitch in my driver's door has had it - nothing left to push onto! The switch itself does work though but I'll get a replacement ordered.

I'm ot convinced this will sort the problem with a) my alarm and b) the key not connecting to the car...


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

black9146 said:


> Yes know where you are. Was on holiday up that way two years ago. Visited St Andrews and Anstruther. I am in Dumfries quite near the border at Carlisle. Will wait and see when you have PM access. Thanks.


that's my PM access sorted


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## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Those corroded male pins should clean up okay using a glassfibre pencil and a squirt of contact cleaner.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Pukmeister said:


> Those corroded male pins should clean up okay using a glassfibre pencil and a squirt of contact cleaner.


Trouble is one of them has corroded so much that it's non existent.


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

jimyfloyd said:


> So the microswitch in my driver's door has had it - nothing left to push onto! The switch itself does work though but I'll get a replacement ordered.
> 
> I'm ot convinced this will sort the problem with a) my alarm and b) the key not connecting to the car...


It's been a while but I went to Thailand.

Today, I fixed the microswitch and hey presto no more alarm going off!

The last thing left now is the remote key which I still can't get to sync OK!


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## jimyfloyd (Jan 22, 2012)

jimyfloyd said:


> jimyfloyd said:
> 
> 
> > So the microswitch in my driver's door has had it - nothing left to push onto! The switch itself does work though but I'll get a replacement ordered.
> ...


Well that was short lived - it was OK yesterday and today it's doing the same thing again with fault codes related to the driver's door switch! Disconnect and reconnect the battery and it goes away for a bit...

Very confused...


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## geoffstevenson (Apr 27, 2020)

Ganja47 said:


> black9146 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes know where you are. Was on holiday up that way two years ago. Visited St Andrews and Anstruther. I am in Dumfries quite near the border at Carlisle. Will wait and see when you have PM access. Thanks.
> ...


Hi Ganja,

You seem to be the man in the know regarding these. I've just bought a 2002 225 Roadster with no functioning roof or central locking as a bit of a project. Had a look at the CCM and it was lying loose as if someone has had a go at this before. If I send you some pics could you have a look and tell me what you think?
Thanks

P.s. @black9146 I am originally from Dumfries and Galloway but now in Falkirk.


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

With regards to swapping a module with like for like, this isn't exactly true
You can replace with a later revision, however you will need the remote control part of the keys to match the CCM (The board revision in the remote is different as well)
I replaced the CCM on my 2000 roadster with one from a 2005 model. My original keys would not sync with the new CCM, so the chap I got the CCM from sent me over the 2 remotes that were with the car and these synced fine using VCDS.
All functions and features appear to be working including long press to open/close windows.
Alarm works, but doesn't make any noise.... Thats a job for another day tho


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

geoffstevenson said:


> Ganja47 said:
> 
> 
> > black9146 said:
> ...


Hey Dude,

Of course, fire away with pics.
With all this lockdown crap going on I've restarted my old business (mobile phone, tablet and laptop repairs) and have everything set up including my reflow station so might even be able to help depending on how bad things are


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## geoffstevenson (Apr 27, 2020)

Appreciate the help, hopefully these photos come through ok!










This area seems to be the worst obvious area with some staining around some of the parts.


















Now the fun begins...










Where the yellow plug (I think going by pictures of other CCM's) would be has been cut out and wired across the pins. The plug in the car has also been cut exposing the single wires but when I got the car these were not joined.


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

The rewiring for the connector actually looks quite decent.

Always seems to be the RF board side being worst on these. What does the RF board itself look like? (the light coloured soldered on board)

For starters clean that corroded section as much as you can with a soft tooth brush and isopropyl alcohol. If you don't have any spray some gas lighter refill on the brush and have a go with that. Try and get those capacitors and transistors as clean as possible and also the rectangular of the 2 surface mount chips looks a bit wonky on one side

Another hi res pic after cleaning and maybe pics of both sides of the RF board should make it easier to judge

Edit: these are awesome for cleaning too but the iso clean should still be done first
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163442613142


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## geoffstevenson (Apr 27, 2020)

Thanks!

I'll give the cleaning it up a go later on today.

Yeah it is this area that seems to be the worst.


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## Ganja47 (Oct 18, 2018)

Definitely needs a good clean up as well. You can see one of the caps is cracked and has leaked. Bottom one on this pic
Not dramatic though, might even be fine without doing anything about it


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## matter (Oct 22, 2020)

geoffstevenson said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'll give the cleaning it up a go later on today.
> 
> Yeah it is this area that seems to be the worst.


Did you manage to fix it? Mine looks exactly the same. I've cleaned it three times now and every time I put it back I get some functionality back but the remotes keep failing. I'm thinking of either get a CCM from a Coupe and switch the RF board or buy a new module. They're really hard to get over here (I'm in the Netherlands).


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

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Hi lads,
I'm looking for some opinions...

My TT Roadster CCM went down in Nov '20 (after 24 hours major rain and a trip on a car transporter to my local garage).

5 main elements not working: 
Windows not fully closing up / interior lights don't come on when door opened / boot / petrol cap / roof doesn't work.

1) Garage mechanic was unable to get it working. But on my drive home everything started working with windows dropping slightly then going back up flush?? Two days later... nothing.

2) Left until better UK weather to try and tackle. Took the CCM out, used some alcohol 99% and an old toothbrush. No luck...but went for a drive (*car stands a lot so perhaps ageing battery getting some power*?) and interior light flickered. By the time i reached home everything was working bar the windows fully closing up.

3) Next day - nothing.

4) 9/11/21 - Took it back out, repeated clean process (note one of the pins appears very, very slightly corroded - so will check that again today). Everything started working again bar the windows closing flush.

Went out for a drive and now ONLY petrol cap and boot working... then ten mins later interior lights coming on.

Next day... nothing

5) Took it back out checked for any corrosion like aspects and used a pin over the tiniest of two areas to lightly scrape of any discoloration on about 4 components. Not sure if that was the best idea (I may have disrupted the flow of electricity?) as there has been nothing ever since but the interior lights flickering when I press the 'open boot' button.

Bearing in mind how often CCM appeared to work / want to work (and it's not as if I took a screwdriver to the board) it seems like some basic soldering could sort my issues?

I've enclosed some motherboard pics (only problem area visually appears to be far top left - apologies if not clear enough) but wonder of anyone agrees with my final summation / has any further recommendations?

Thanks,

Beej


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

New







pic


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## beej2108 (Apr 11, 2021)

New pic - Annoyingly not clear enough - but in this one there is just the far top right: There was some tiny brownish residue (going from the small rectangular component on the right....leading to the larger dark square top right) I scraped away lightly with a pin.


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