# Wind Noise - How to Adjust Your Windows



## neilneil2000 (Feb 22, 2012)

*Problem:* Wind noise heard inside the cabin when driving at motorway speeds and/or on windy days.
*Cause:* Windows are not sitting high enough when in the fully closed position
*Fix:* Use window adjusters to raise the windows

*Difficulty:* Easy
*Tools Required: *

Long 5mm Allen/Hex Key with ball end. (Mine is 160mm long, 120mm may work)[/*]
Torch[/*]

*Disclaimer 1:* This post is a description of how I adjusted the windows on my car and does not constitute advice. Follow at your own risk.
*Disclaimer 2:* Adjusting your windows will increase the pressure on the window regulators and motors. If they are already on their way out, then this increase in pressure may mean they fail sooner than they otherwise would.

*Note:* There is no need to remove the door card for this process.

*Step 1:* Sit inside your car with the door shut and window all the way up. Press on the top of the window all the way along to see how much give there is, and how it varies from front to back.
If the problem is only affecting one window you should do this on the good side too to give you a guage for how much give is normal.

*Step 2:* Wind window all the way down. (IMPORTANT: if the window isn't all the way down you will waste a long time trying to find the adjuster!)

*Step 3:* Remove the rubber cap(s) from the bottom of the door. There are only two, both are for the window adjusters.
(If you found that your window was only loose at one end, then you may only need to adjust one end of the window and thus remove one cap.)

*Step 4:* Insert allen key into adjuster access hole, seat into window adjuster and turn clockwise.
Use the torch to help you locate the adjuster.
They are pretty tough to turn, and I'd suggest only doing a half turn at a time then rechecking.

*Step 5:* Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary until the window feels firm across the whole length front to back.
It is normal for there to be a bit more give in the centre and being frameless, you will always be able to move the glass slightly if you apply enough pressure, but during adjustment you should get a feel for what is normal and what is not.

*Step 6:* Take it for a test drive.


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## turtleTT (May 14, 2008)

Nice write up shame there's no pics!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Nice write up.

See for some pictures here:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=248610&start=540


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## neilneil2000 (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks, I did take some pics but they weren't very good with it being a dull day and a black car...and then there's the fact I couldn't work out how to add them... :-D


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## texasgooner (Dec 14, 2009)

Could somebody please give me the part number for the "rubber cap(s) from the bottom of the door" that you remove to adjust the window, as I have one missing. Many thanks!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

The link for pictures has 47 pages (mobile, tapatalk) to go through to find them :-(


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Can't check on a mobile device, but on a fixed computer it is page 37.


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

I did exactly this when i had my TTS, wind noise gone 

Sent from my iPhone via the interweb


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## texasgooner (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks, it is 8J0837947

Incidentally, I did not have an allen that could reach inside the door, so I used the 5mm longer torx tool that is in our boot that also turns an allen socket.


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## datamonkey (Jan 23, 2012)

Anyone know exactly where the socket is for adjustment in relation to the rubber bung you take off the door? Is it straight up or over to one side?

I tried tightening my driver door (the one nearest the door lock) today with 120mm tool but had no luck finding it! Wondered if 120mm was too short also?


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## datamonkey (Jan 23, 2012)

gogs said:


> If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks gogs. Think I'll do it properly next time and use my in-laws ramp with a torch!


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

You wont need a ramp mate, its fairly easy just time consuming as you need to adjust then close the door and check over and over again :-(

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dreago (Apr 3, 2014)

Very helpful.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Sorry to post to a fairly old topic but can I ask, how much gap should there be above the window glass? Should the window be tucked into the seal (like on a car with a frames window), or should there be a small space?

I have a noisy passenger side when at motorway speeds so am planning on adjusting.


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## rajanm1 (Feb 1, 2014)

mine is tucked into the rubber so no gap.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

rajanm1 said:


> mine is tucked into the rubber so no gap.


I thought so, I imagine not by very far though, so as not to put strain on the mechanicals?


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## Templar (Mar 9, 2012)

MarkTickner said:


> Sorry to post to a fairly old topic but can I ask, how much gap should there be above the window glass? Should the window be tucked into the seal (like on a car with a frames window), or should there be a small space?
> 
> I have a noisy passenger side when at motorway speeds so am planning on adjusting.


Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Templar said:


> Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.


Thought so, thanks. I assume they naturally drop over the years?

Best get myself a long 5mm allen key then!


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## texasgooner (Dec 14, 2009)

MarkTickner said:


> Templar said:
> 
> 
> > Window should sit into the top rubber seal with no gap mate.
> ...


if you look in the boot, the tool set has one long enough


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

That's a torx for getting the head lights out, not an Allen key, or am I mistaken?


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## sykosyksi (Jun 14, 2015)

Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.


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## patton (Dec 2, 2014)

sykosyksi said:


> Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.


i haven't done mine yet but id imagine that its now to tight and the motor doesn't have the power to bring it down, try adjusting it back to where it was and see if it works. hope i have been of some help


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## Phlukanad (Aug 26, 2016)

Just reviving this thread. Could anyone say that in their experience adjusting either of these has fixed their loose glass problem or whether that is more likely to be the loose bolts thing and therefore door card off? Tx.


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## neilneil2000 (Feb 22, 2012)

Fixed it for me and two others


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Is there a precise procedure when changing the window lifter, how to adjust every one of the adjusters and in which order.

The thing is, when I bought my car it had a wind noise and I was thinking it would need an adjustment (the one talked about in this thread). I was going to do it one time and brought the window down to reach the adjusters. The window lifter started crunching and making sounds like the wires are about to snap so I quickly brought the window back and and decided to leave it until I have a new one.

But today I decided to have a look and what did I found.. There was a brand new lifter fitted, new OEM part with manufacturing date 16.08.2016. So the previous owner either tried to fit it or have someone else do it who didn't know what he was doing.

The wedge part from the front rail was inside the door, also both of the bolts which clamp the window to the rails were loose and also the 13mm nuts on the back rail were only hand tight. No wonder that the window was clunking a bit.. :lol: and the lifter crunching like it is going to die any moment.

I fitted the wedge to the front rail and came up with a setting somewhere in the middle of it's "range". Then I adjusted the back rails, loosened the 13mm and used a T25 bit to adjust the "bolts" - they were way off. Had to counterhold with a socket held with locking pliers to get them tight. You know what I am talking about if you "have been there". I got the back of the window quite flush comparing to the small window on the rear quarter panel. The window moves down and up now easily and without any extra noises. Went for a test drive, quite good but still a little wind noise (barely noticeable) so I will do the upwards adjustment tomorrow which was talked about around here.

So like I asked in the beginning - is there a right way/order to get all the adjustments right? Because only the front lower fixing point of the window lifter does not have an adjustment. All the other 3 affect the sideways tilting of the window and they can be quite hard to get right if you have to start from point zero like I did. And then there is also the upwards adjustment so 5 in total :mrgreen:


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

The manual doesn't mention a specific order in which the adjustment would have to take place. 
But in order to be able to follow the official adjustment guidelines, a special template is required:










Tool T40038/7.

Not having this tool this is what I'd advise to do (talking from experience)

1) Compare the door window with the small window. Both should be flush from bottom to top. This helps getting the inward tilting right at the back of the door window. Compare for the distance to the rear window at the other side if that one hasn't been touched yet. The gap between the door window and the small window should be the same, bottom to top.

2) The distance between the black metal roof trim strip and the window (like how far that metal strip sticks out) should be the same at 2 measurement points: 10cm before the end of the window and there where the windscreen meets the roof. That should help getting your tilting right at the front end.

3) I'd end with setting the height of the window. Rule of thumb: a bank note should have a healthy resistance all the way from the little black triangle to the upper corner when the door is closed. If the resistance at the lower end of the A pillar is not enough, the window should move forwards, not upwards.

Take your time to get things right. With that tool adjustments have around 1 mm tolerance.

Almost needless to say: the door itself should have the correct gaps before you'd start adjusting the window. It should not stick out more than 1 mm compared to the rear wing. The body line on the rear wing and the door should be in 1 line. If this all is not the case, then adjust the striker plate of the door lock first.

Yeah.... it's not easy building a straight Audi....


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## Vanu (Oct 2, 2016)

how do you adjust the door itself, only by the plate or?


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

TT-driver said:


> The manual doesn't mention a specific order in which the adjustment would have to take place.
> But in order to be able to follow the official adjustment guidelines, a special template is required:
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I did take my time when doing it and getting the backside of the window flush with the small side window was one thing I did. I also compared everything to the drivers side window. After going through all that I just had a feeling that did I do it right, hence the question I did. But the window worked smoothly and only heard a tiny amount of wind noise from it, mainly because the upwards adjustment isn't done yet.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

It seems you've done the right thing then


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

TT-driver said:


> It seems you've done the right thing then


I kinda have to because I do this kind of stuff for a living :lol: I run my own shop.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

:lol:

So do I. However not on a commercial/professional basis. Just for family members.
And every now and then I try to post something sensible on the forum here.


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## peteholloway (Aug 15, 2018)

Thanks for the useful info posted here... I decided to adjust my '08 TT passenger window last night, as when I bought the car the previous owner mumbled something about replacing the window regulator when I commented on the wind noise at 120kmph. I could actually see the top edge of the glass when the window was closed, it clearly needed adjusting.

After much frustrated fiddling with the 5mm Allen key, I realized that the window had to move forward slightly, as the curve of the roof and the curve of the glass didn't quite match. As I started removing the door card it was quickly obvious that this had been done before... broken clips, broken speaker cover, missing torx screw... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

After getting the necessary bits out of the way, I loosened the 2 torx bolts clamping the glass and after some minor adjusting, the window now works perfectly again 

Before the adjustments, the window only went up a few mm when closing the door, now it goes up significantly more, about 10mm, like the drivers door.

Scary stuff, buying a 10 year old car, but so good to have access to this forum to sort out the niggles.


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## Miboc (Oct 22, 2019)

gogs said:


> If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw


I've spent the last half an hour trying to find this adjustment screw and it's doing my head in now!
Window's down, shone a torch up there and can't see anything. 12" long 5mm allen key not finding anything to turn. I've looked at photos, tried everything!!

Help!!


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

Read the above post. Maybe you're has been done before and with a patent part that doesn't have the adjustment screws?

Like above. You can get the window aligned using the glass bolts behind the door card.


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## Miboc (Oct 22, 2019)

qooqiiu said:


> Read the above post. Maybe you're has been done before and with a patent part that doesn't have the adjustment screws?
> 
> Like above. You can get the window aligned using the glass bolts behind the door card.


Ok, cheers, it doesn't look good then. I was hoping it was a quick fix without taking the door card off and wrecking anything (which I'm bound to do).

I'll figure out how to get the door card off and see how it goes.

Thanks again.


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## peteholloway (Aug 15, 2018)

The hardest part is probably removing the triangular speaker cover without breaking it. The bottom centre clip is usually the culprit. Be sure to pride it out in the right direction.


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## andy mac (Jun 24, 2019)

Miboc said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> > If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw
> ...


I just tried to adjust my passenger window, you need to angle the hex wrench slightly so that the top of it (where it fits into the bolt) is very slightly further back than the bottom of it.









Excuse the poor picture I just mocked up but it demonstrates what I mean... the view I drew is of the inside of the door with the hex key in the rear bolt.

I found it almost impossible to find until I took off the oddly shaped panel. It takes a bit of force too lever it off but seemed safe enough to do. Once that's out of the way you can see exactly where the wrench is going.










Unfortunately with mine the rear bolt was jammed solid and I didn't fancy trying to force it.

Also worth adding that the drivers side window (on mine at least) has a gap of about 6mm in the "automatically dropped to close" position.
My passenger side one has a gap of more like 20mm


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*Window regulator* (page 37)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &start=540

*Workshop Manual: General Body Repairs, Exterior A005TT00220
FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Repair Groups*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

_See the arrows, about there is your opening for adjusting the height. You'll find a similar hole further towards the hinges. Both are covered with a rubber cap. Take it off carefully. The black plastic cap (part number 8J0837947, in case you'd break it) right of the arrow covers the screw to adjust the window angle. You can increase or lower the force with which it pushes against the upper seal.

Black arrows: where the cable runs through
Green arrows: clamps that hold the window
Red arrows: stunt team  and the height adjusters reachable through the holes when the window is all the way down.

Be smart and take some measurements, see previous page, the picture with all the sticky tape on the window and the body work, before starting to make adjustments. Use a bank note to check whether the window touches the seal firm enough all the way along side the roof when the door is closed.

Edited for attaching new picture locations.
Use a 5mm Allen key that is at least 12cm or so long and that can be used under a slight angle. And use a light to find the adjusters. I adjusted my window the other day and the adjusters are awkwardly located as they're slightly angled, not straight up. Windows have to be fully down too get the Allen key to engage. Then raise the window to check the fit. _

Last edited by *TT-driver* on 20 Mar 2014


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