# The ScoobyTTechnique for CarLack 68 NSC & LLS



## ScoobyTT

I said to blizeH a little while ago that I'd been meaning to do a guide on a foolproof way to get the best out of CarLack's Nano Systematic Care and Long Life Sealant, aka "The CarLack Twins".

The aim of the ScoobyTTechnique is to:
* Get the job done as quickly as possible with the best quality result.
* Use the minimum amount of product, so the product lasts and isn't wasted.
* Not be remotely tiring. There's no need to work the products, and you won't turn your hand into a claw by holding applicators for too long, because you won't use any!

{image from CleanYourCar.co.uk}









Common concepts of application apply to both, which are the real basis of this technique, so let's get those out the way:

*Common Application Concepts*
*Down with pads! *
Whilst many detailers will recommend the ubiquitous microfibre-covered foam pad for application of various products, I'm generally against their usage because they soak up and hence waste product. CarLack is applied sparingly, particularly the Long Life Sealant, and this is much easier to do when not using a pad. It also means that you don't end up washing most of the product you think you've put on the car out of the sponge filling after you're finished.

Microfibre also has a definite pile to it, even with a very short pile, and this makes even application more difficult. Even application is important as LLS can be trickier to remove than NSC if applied too thickly.

So what to use instead or a pad? This is easy. You want something that isn't going to soak up loads of product, and with a fine weave.

*In with cotton!*
All you need then is some soft cotton cloth, and indeed this is what CarLack recommend! Something with the weave and thickness of a typical T shirt is a good choice. In fact, old clothing is an excellent choice because to apply CarLack you're better off with small pieces that you can cut up. If you don't have any old cloth buying a cheap T shirt will give you an ideal fabric for less than the cost of any product aimed at detailers. Wash your chosen cloth without softeners prior to use so you just have plain, unadulterated cotton.

Small pieces of cloth meet our aim of not soaking up masses of product. A layer of cloth quickly reaches ideal saturation so most of the product goes where it's supposed do - on the car - and pieces of cloth also make application easier because you don't have to grip anything and you can feel the surface of the paint through the cloth. This makes it much easier to gauge how much pressure you're applying.

The other advantages of scraps of cloth:
* Easy to quickly wash afterwards. With a pad you'll be rinsing and squeezing product out of it until the cows come home.
* If for some reason a scrap gets too grubby, or falls on the floor, you can simply discard it or put it aside for washing, and cut yourself a fresh piece. 
* You can easily use a new piece whenever you feel like it. 
* A bottle of product lasts a lot longer. A 500ml bottle of CarLack will last years, even if used most weeks.

How big? As a guide, a piece of cloth roughly the size of your first three fingers or a bit bigger is sufficient. You can use it whole, or fold it in half and get four changeable surfaces out of it. Cut around any hems and stitching so you have a plain, edge-free piece of cotton.

On with the product-specific info:

*CarLack Nano Systematic Care*
The blurb, for the unitiated, from CarLack & CleanYourCar.co.uk:


> Car-Lack68 Systematic Care is a cleaner/sealant that will not only clean the car but apply a hard durable acrylic finish that is frost proof, heat proof and shrink proof. Originally formulated in 1958 as the worlds first Wet application wax, Car-Lack 68 has been constantly improved and redesigned to offer the very best in car care protection without sacrificing looks, or depth of shine.
> 
> One interesting fact about the cleaning properties of this product is that it absolutely contains no abrasives, so you can use this product as many times as you desire without damaging your paintwork in the long term.
> 
> It combines within one single product surface cleaner, tar remover, rust dissolver, preserver and the new formula Polyethylen / Acryl + Nano Technology covering surfaces with a micro fine coating. NSC was especially developed to protect and tend cars, caravans, yachts, office and household appliances.
> 
> NSC cleans and protects all of the above-mentioned goods for a long period of time by its combination of a specific cleaning agent and the Polyethylen / Acryl + Nano Technology; it is weather- and shampooing-proofed and hardens the surface structure. Further advantages of NSC are its acid-proof, heat-resistance and UV-filter. Therefore, under solar radiation the pores will not open as with usual waxes. NSC can be applied on wet as well as dry surfaces.


In getting rid of rust and tar whilst cleaning the paint, there's really no need to be using clay. If there's anything that this stuff doesn't clean off, do you really want to be dragging it across your paint anyway? For me, the answer is no, but I'm always left with a silent, slick finish anyway.

*Application*
CarLack's instructions:
1) Clean the surface from coarse dirt, or wash the car and dry lightly. Well, duhhhhhh :wink: Ok, that was my addition  
2) Apply NSC thin with a cotton cloth. After 3 minutes a chemical process starts meanwhile the surface regenarates and hardens. This process will be finished after 30 to 40 minutes.
3) Afterwards wipe of the grey dusty residue with a clean, smooth cloth.

Dosing for NSC is given as 1ml per square foot, and that seems to be about right.
*
The ScoobyTTechnique:*
Nothing especially different from the manufacturer's recommendation here. For step 2, use your scrap of cloth. If you fold your cloth, then should the paint cleansing causes your cloth to pick up any discolouration, you can simply turn it over or fold it the other way and get four fresh surfaces to work with. Keep the cloth moist but not soggy, though it doesn't really matter with NSC as it is easier to remove than LLS. Tune this as you get a feel for the product. Don't work in circles (though CarLack isn't abrasive), and follow the lines of the car. You don't need to press hard - if the cloth is sliding out from under your fingers, you're pressing too hard or your paint surface has major issues  Light to light-medium pressure is usually all you'll need.

Leave the product to cure for the 30-40 minutes recommended. Longer doesn't hurt at all, and it doesn't get difficult to remove.

*Buffing off*
Because you can be more generous with the application of NSC than LLS (as we'll see later), it's possible you may get the odd bit that won't buff off so readily. Not a problem. If a slight increase in buffing pressure doesn't remove it, give a tiny spray (not a full pump) of water and continue lightly buffing. Just a very slight dampness to the cloth is all it needs to remove any trickier residue.

If you're applying LLS afterwards, you can save yourself the process of removing the NSC residue and just apply the LLS on top. I tend to buff it off though as (a) it's easy and (b) it makes it a little easier to see where you've been when applying LLS.

*Where to use?*
On the car, NSC is obviously good on all painted surfaces. Apply it to your door jams, hinge areas and boot channels and they'll stay cleaner for a lot longer. It's also brilliant on any shiny plastic surfaces such as grilles, and "chrome" trims. It'll clean out any tricky dullness in corners, water marking around trims, etc.

Avoid textured surfaces. CarLack say you can also use it on glass, though since I use CarLack's glass sealant I have not tried this. I make no recommendation in this regard.

In the home NSC is great on stainless steel work surfaces, taps, leaving them shiny and easier to clean. It's also good on other shiny surfaces. Obviously don't use it on cookware :lol:

In the next post, I'll cover usage of the Long Life Sealant.


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## ScoobyTT

*Long Life Sealant*
The blurb, for the unitiated, from CarLack & CleanYourCar.co.uk:



> Long-Life Sealant gives a hard, durable acrylic finish that gently protects surfaces for months; its UV-filter prevents finish degradation, oxidation (paint ageing). The molecular acrylic film is resistant against detergents, mild acids, and all kinds of pollution.
> 
> Long-Life Sealant with Acrylic wax creates an extraordinary shine and gloss. As LLS contains no cleaning agents it can be layered on a frequent basis to build up an extremely durable protective coating over the surface over an extended period of time. Also, due to the enhanced acrylic properties over NSC, it builds a smoother, more uniformly reflective finish giving an unparalleled high gloss sheen.


*Application*
I'm going to miss out CarLack's instructions here because apart from saying to apply in thin coats you won't really learn anything from thousands of other car products. So it's straight into the ScoobyTTechnique!

*In the sun? You bet!*
It's said that LLS cannot be applied in sunshine. Whilst this is true of high summer where it just dries too quickly, in spring and autumn, it's perfectly possible with my technique. As a guide, if the car is too hot to hold your fingers on for the duration of your work, it's too hot to apply. You can always do the shady side though, and turn the car around but if the more horizontal surfaces or those with a direct angle to the sun are best left to another time. If it's warm, it's fine. Applying in sunshine brings the benefit of being easier to see the finish more clearly when buffing.

There may be other reasons for not applying in the sun, but as far as I can tell, speed of drying appears to be the main reason.

*The ScoobyTTechnique*
LLS is applied much more thinly than NSC. As such it helps to use a slightly smaller scrap of cotton. 1ml of LLS is said to do a 2 foot by 2 foot (60cm x 60cm) area. Once your cloth is primed, and you get the hang of it, you can use less than this. Your piece of cotton will not get entirely damp. If it ends up damp all over, you're probably using too much. You get a damp patch on the cloth, and the rest goes on the car. Once the cloth is primed like this, very tiny amounts of LLS will keep it moist enough to apply the next area.

Start off by applying about 1ml of LLS to your cloth, and then start applying to the car in quick but gentle straight line motions. Aim to spread the LLS away from your starting point, cover an area. Light, quick, strokes is the way to go, covering an area up to 18" square repeatedly. Imagine waving to someone - it's as effortless as that, and you don't really need to press. The weight of your hand is just about enough. This means that unlike most products, you don't really need to work CarLack at all, and you can finish up without your arms feeling like they're ready to fall off.

How thin is thin? As a guide, if you see the LLS drying almost instantly behind your strokes so that it's almost invisible, that's about right. You'll always be able to see some of it, mostly where your strokes reverse direction. As you apply the next area, overlap those slightly to even them out. Apply a little more pressure to any streaks to try and even them out but not a lot. In the sun, you need to be more mindful of the product drying, so work in smaller areas at a time, and work quickly and repeatedly over that area to blend an even layer - you're almost applying and buffing at the same time.

Once you've done one area, recharge your cloth with a tiny amount of LLS. As a guide, once the cloth is dampened, something less than a pea-sized drop is enough to do the next area, e.g. 1/6 to 1/4 of the roof. Use a fresh surface of your cloth every now and then, say every major panel. Always work from the cleanest areas to any that may have any residual dirt, so to behind the rear wheels and the skirts last just in case. If anywhere is still dirty by this point though you need to work on your wash technique :wink:

You can safely apply to the whole car and this leaves at least 15 minutes for the LLS to cure where you started. Then you can start buffing.

*Buffing*
Buffing is potentially the trickiest bit of using LLS, and seems to be the reason why a lot of people say it is tricky to use. The simplest guide is that if you're finding it hard to buff off you've applied too much.

Buff gently with a smooth cotton cloth or a very shallow pile microfibre. You don't need to work it hard to buff it up and remove the residue. If there is any that won't shift with a slight increase in pressure, then as with the NSC a tiny squirt of water is all it needs. If you're using a trigger spray we're not talking a full pump here, just enough to get anything to come out of it. That slight dampness in the cloth is all it needs.

LLS will continue to cure over the next 24 hours or so.

*Layering*
As mentioned before, LLS benefits from layering. The finish and gloss improves, and it's possible to achieve a glass-like finish and turn a car into a mirror when you look straight at it (no cheating looking down the length of the car  ).

*Where to use?*
Anywhere that you'd use the NSC. Avoid textured plastics.

*Maintenance - General*
CarLack doesn't hologram anywhere near as easily as a wax finish and you have to have a fairly keen eye to spot any, so you can usually wash a car a number of times before any will arise. As it happens, CarLack benefits from layering as mentioned above, which improves the finish. So you can pretty much maintain a top finish and fix any holograms at the same time.

Also, there's nothing to say you have to do the entire car, so you can easily maintain the layers doing one section one time, another section the next, etc.

Every now and then, no more than a few times a year, break out the NSC and do the whole car again.

*Maintenance - Bird Bombs*
CarLack is pretty much impervious to bird bombs, but now and then you may get one that will leave a mark. The good news is it won't be in the paint. A quick touch up with some LLS will usually sort it but if it's stubborn break out the NSC, apply as normal, and then top up with LLS.


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## ross_cj250

Nice write-up, Scoob, thanks for that...I've used their shampoo with good results and wondered about NSC & LLS.

What about sorting swirls in your paintwork? Am I right in thinking NSC will just clean rather than polish/fill swirls? Would NSC, then, for example Super Resin polish, then LLS be a good combination?

Regards
Ross


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## blizeH

Wow, this is a superb guide, thank you Scooby!

I used CarLack for the first time on the weekend and was very impressed, it was pretty much the first time I've ever done anything with a car other than simply wash it, and the results were still great, which probably shows you what a fantastic (and simple to use!) product this is.

I stupidly applied both products using two Dodo Juice applicators though - sure they were very nice and plush but having read this guide I can see I made a mistake by using them, not least because they sucked up a lot of solution, but also because it meant I treated the whole car from just one very small pad. Whilst I do like the idea of having something like a mitt (super easy to hold) I'm going to buy some plain cotton cloths ready for my next application I think, or maybe just some non-plush microfibre cloths.

One quick question - would applying both CarLacks onto alloys be okay? Thanks again


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## ScoobyTT

ross_cj250 said:


> What about sorting swirls in your paintwork? Am I right in thinking NSC will just clean rather than polish/fill swirls? Would NSC, then, for example Super Resin polish, then LLS be a good combination?


Hi Ross,
NSC covers swirling as well, and does better than SRP and Black Hole in my experience. Don't use SRP after NSC: The SRP being a polish is (mildly) abrasive, and will undo your hard work. I'm not sure if NSC would remove the resins left by SRP but as it removes tar, I suspect it might. I'd say use the SRP for any occasional tasks where you want a polish. I wouldn't do the whole car with it though, for the reasons just mentioned.



ross_cj250 said:


> I've used their shampoo with good results and wondered about NSC & LLS.


The shampoo is on my list to try as it's supposed to be very good - currently waiting for my remaining Born to Be Mild to run out.... in about a year :roll:



blizeH said:


> I'm going to buy some plain cotton cloths ready for my next application I think, or maybe just some non-plush microfibre cloths.


Stick to cotton rather than microfibre for application. It really benefits from a fine weave and the more uniform surface to the cloth. If you've got any old T shirts give them a wash or two without softener and they're good to go. If you want new cloth though some cheap T shirts would probably be cheaper than any cotton cloth sold for car purposes, and better for the job (just added this to the guide). Again, give them a wash without softener so they've clean and Bob's your uncle. Short pile / non-plush microfibres are good for the buffing though - I tend to use them myself.



blizeH said:


> One quick question - would applying both CarLacks onto alloys be okay? Thanks again


Yep! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## blizeH

Thanks again Scooby  Interesting that it will help get rid of swirls, though thankfully I don't have any yet.

Will cut up some old t-shirts ready for applying this stuff, although any reason why it's so important to avoid fabric softener? Going to re-do the wheels asap! Also, stupid question but is it okay to apply to this also? I have no idea what material it is http://i.imgur.com/sxccx.jpg

ps. It could be worth posting this up onto some of the other car washing forums as it'll no doubt be very useful to the people on there

pps. is it worth getting the glass sealant also? Does this do much beyond making it easier for the wipers to do their job? fwiw I have Auto Finesse Crystal Glass Cleaner at the moment


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## ScoobyTT

Fabric softener usually contains silicones. Zymol said in blurb for their towels years ago that "starch and silicone ... scratches and contaminates your paint." Now it's not clear whether that's in combination, or whether one scratches and the other contaminates. I've not foudn anything since to corroborate that claim, but I take no chances so I keep my fabrics as unfettered as possible and it's easy to do. The same goes for microfibres. A warm wash with some non-bio and job done.

*The Valance*
That rear valance you showed looks either like Audi's own Carbon Fibre version of the default, or a third party one which may or may not be actual carbon fibre. If the surface is smooth (which CF often is as with a layer of resin on top) then you can use the CarLack no problem. If it's textured in any way, you could try it on an inconspicuous area like the fold by the exhause or just under the bottom edge and see if it buffs off readily. Generally avoid using CarLack on textured surfaces or others that aren't meant to be shiny though.

*The Glass Sealant*
The glass sealant is very worthwhile on the mirrors, rear and side windows. With light rain and dew your car will look spooky 8) You'll get morning dew flying off and clearing your screen at suburban speeds. It lasts a few months and is also good on domestic windows and on glass shower components. I've tried GTechniq G3/4 and was unimpressed with the water repulsion - at low speeds water was reluctant to shift and it didn't last as long. With the CarLack you can do the rear windscreen with no more than say a teaspoon so it's another product where the bottle will last you years, unless you have other uses for it 

Here are some videos of CarLack Glass Sealant in action:









My advice with sealants is to consider usage on the front windscreen a bit more carefullly because these can happen:
- You may get some wiper juddering (I didn't get this with CarLack's sealant though)
- They seem to interefere to an extent with rain detection on automatic wipers. 
- When using wipers they can smear a fine film like mist over the surface. How quickly this fades depends on weather, speed, etc. The effect does ease over a time though.
You can try it and see if any of these bother you - if you don't have auto wipers only the last one may and it's a subjective thing whether you can get on with it or not. Seeing water flying _up _the windscreen at low speeds is amusing though.

On the front I tend to stick to a polish whenever the screen sounds a bit noisy, to clean the surface and make it silent again.


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## blizeH

Thanks again Scooby - I normally stick everything through in the wash without fabric softener (cloths, towels etc) after I've washed my car so will throw in a couple of old t-shirts whilst I'm at it  Thanks for the heads up on the valance, it feels smooth and I think it's standard so I'll give it the CarLack treatment also.

Got to be honest I wasn't at all convinced by the glass sealant - it seems quite expensive since you have to buy it in a bundle with a cleaner too, and from those videos I was like, so what if it means I just have to put my windscreen wipers on? But I can certainly see the benefits too. On a side note it's interesting you mentioned it can be used on any glass - we have a really big shower door that is a bitch to keep nice and shiny, so will order some CarLack for that as much as anything else 

Does look useful on the old windscreen too - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... Ms_ihlWDyk - and on the back window in particular... I spent ages trying to find the button to turn on my rear windscreen wiper


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## UnknownPerson

Sorry to jump in late (and especially if I've missed something already mentioned).

If I were to use these two products, can I still use my regular wax on top? I'd rather not waste it.

Is there any risk at all of damaging the paintwork with these products (beyond a normal wash?) Can the layer it adds be removed (assuming you messed up and had varying depths making the finish look poor?)

Thanks!


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## ScoobyTT

Blize, your shower sounds like an ideal candidate! It seems to last about a month in a shower, and any drops of water bigger than a couple of millimetres will be pulled down the surface keeping it clean. Even smaller drops are no match for gravity, though they do move at a more snail-like pace :lol:



UnknownPerson said:


> If I were to use these two products, can I still use my regular wax on top? I'd rather not waste it.


Yes you can use wax on top if you wish. However, you won't be able to layer up LLS on top of wax you'd need to top up with wax until you were next prepared to strip it back with the NSC to clear the wax, clean the paint, and reseal. If you want to apply wax on top I'd suggest allowing at least 24 hours after the LLS to allow it to cure. I found the finish easier to look after by cutting wax out of the equation.



UnknownPerson said:


> Is there any risk at all of damaging the paintwork with these products (beyond a normal wash?)


Nope, unless you apply it with a brick  CarLack is not abrasive.



UnknownPerson said:


> Can the layer it adds be removed (assuming you messed up and had varying depths making the finish look poor?)


To remove it you'd have to polish it off. However, if you do have any colour depth/reflection variation from inconsistent application this is easily fixed by applying more CarLack. Trying to take it off is an unnecessary step. Once you figure the product application out this doesn't really happen anyway.


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## blizeH

Thanks Scooby - got a little shortlist of things I want from CleanYourCar, will make sure it's on my next order


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## Gazzer

flipping heck scoobs nice write up m8ee, and as i am starting my detailing this week end for the first time in the cars life i suspect..........owing to swirls small scratches and an inbred infection of the paint from every contaniment known to mankind.
so where do i get these products from bud (hopefully at a local supplier) thanks gazz


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## ScoobyTT

Hi Gazzer, not sure about shops that stock CarLack, but cleanyourcar.co.uk is a good place to get it at a fair price. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Gazzer

after reading ya thread scoobs i just had to buy m8 lol

Subtotal
Carlack 68 - Long Life Sealant
£15.95
Carlack - Glass Sealing Kit
£14.95
Car-Lack 68 Shampoo (1000ml)
£7.95
Meguiars Detailing Clay - Mild
£28.95

Subtotal:

£56.50
VAT:

£11.30
Shipping:

Enter location below
Basket Total:

£67.80

better be goood sheit bud......says the numpty that will be using it lol. how comes you havn't contacted them to do a group buy m8

Thank you, your order was a success!

A copy and receipt of your order has been e-mailed to your registration address. You will then recieve another email as soon as we have packed and posted your order.

As a registered user you can also log-in to your account and view any order in the Order History section of your account.

Finally, once again, we thank you for your custom and hope you like the products


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## ScoobyTT

They have a loyalty points scheme which seems to be fairly worthwhile, and is the reason they don't do discount for members of detailing world if I remember rightly.

The shampoo is going on my next shopping list!


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## Gazzer

ScoobyTT said:


> They have a loyalty points scheme which seems to be fairly worthwhile, and is the reason they don't do discount for members of detailing world if I remember rightly.
> 
> The shampoo is going on my next shopping list!


woooohoo i beat scoob at something lol


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## Gazzer

paid for next day delivery and as yet nothing has turned up........will be claiming the extra postage back now!!!


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## blizeH

Glass cleaner and sealant came today! Going to try it out on the shower tomorrow ;p


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