# Starting an off road/safari project, yikes



## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Hey folks,

I did something silly - I have two Mk1 TTs now! I guess I have a type.

Here's the new one:

















It's a 2001, 225, AMU engine. This one is a little beaten up, it hasn't had much love in the last couple of years. Just as an example of the standard of care it has had recently, the tyre pressures on the day I bought it were an incredible 56psi:










My plan for this is to turn it into an off road/safari adventure car. I specifically looked for a car that has a lot wrong with it and will be challenging/uninteresting to restore to original condition, and this one is perfect. Lots of interior damage, paint in bad shape, lots of fault codes and even the airbag light on the dash is flickering intermittently. Not particularly remarkable as an example of a Mk1, and I reckon anything I do to this battered car is going to be an improvement!

The intended use is screwing around in the mountains and deserts of California and Nevada in various seasons - lots of dust, rocky trails, snow, and mud. Not going to be doing any rock crawling, desert racing, etc. This is just for supporting fun adventures in entirely the wrong car for the job.

The vision is to try to preserve as much of the beautiful lines and style of this car as possible. There's an off road conversion of a Mk1 on YouTube by Dave Makes Stuff, which is the only other person I've found mad enough to have tried this with a Mk1. Not a fan of the missing/cut bumpers though, I'd like to preserve more of that.

With that in mind, my intended feature list:

Lifted, ideally doubling the ride height to around 200mm but I'll take what I can get. Looking at air kits but haven't found one in stock yet...
16" wheels in white, looking at Braid Fullrace T Dakar at the moment. Would love to go smaller but from searching around I can't make 15s clear the front calipers.
Knobbly mud tyres, looking at BFGoodrich KM3, but haven't decided on that.
Might have to flare the arches but hoping to avoid it, it's too pretty...
20mm spacers
Custom top rack, using the four OEM mounting points.
Custom rear rack, extending down from the top rack to new mounting points that'll come out through the rear bumper.
Carrying two full spares on the rear rack - they'll be on hinged mounts allowing them to swing out of the way, supported by gas struts, so you can fold the wheels up and still open the boot.
Tow bar! (Curt 11765)
Skid plate under the front bumper, probably stainless.
Skid plate covering the under body fuel lines.
Strengthened skid plate/support bars under the sump.
Haldex TouchMotion controller.
Rear seat delete.
Custom curvy bull bars - trying to match the beautiful curve of the front bumper.
LED light bars - one on the bull bars, one on the front of the top rack.
Amateur radio - mobile unit probably replacing the CD changer, with a remote display on the dashboard.
Big antenna, to support 2m and 70cm bands.
Cute little dune flag - it's a low car and it's already a dumb project, so why not!
Wrapped, probably something matte and dark. Not black, maybe a dark green. There are some "forest green" TTs, maybe something close to that. Toyed with the idea of dazzle camo in black and white but that goes against the idea to preserve the curvy lines as much as possible, so that's out!
Delete the skinny spare, more space for fun stuff.
Delete the weight under the rear bumper.
Before I even get started on that list though, I need to address:

Oil, filter
Air filters (engine, cabin)
Spark plugs
Flush coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, bleed ABS pump, etc.
Replace all suspension bushings and tie rod ends
Replace/diagnose problem with the longitudinal motion sensor
Diagnose the flickering airbag dash light, didn't see it set a fault code... Not sure what's up there.
Replace brake rotors, pads, and probably calipers - opportunity to get them in red! Might just paint them once they're out, or take them to a friend who has a powder coating setup.
Anyway, that's the plan - looking to the forum here for advice on what I've forgotten, and parts I should be looking at.

Specifically on suspension - I'm looking for as much lift as possible. There are simple spacer kits for up to 1.5" of lift, air suspension kits that are mostly designed for lowering. Not sure what to do there, and it's sounding like a four corner air kit for the Mk1 is difficult to find but I'm working on it...

Advice, support, insults, all appreciated!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

The tow bar arrived recently. Still amazed that anyone bothered designing and manufacturing one for this car, I laugh every time I see it... Fitting it is going to be fun too, you need to drill the frame and use some wire to fish nuts inside it to get them started on the bolts.


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## STTP05 (9 mo ago)

This projects seems awesome, I loved David Makes stuff's project and am exited for yours too. It would be so cool seeing a mk1 TT tear up the Rockies!


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## gedu (Sep 2, 2021)

Outside the box, I like, lots 💪


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

horseoutside said:


> The tow bar arrived recently. Still amazed that anyone bothered designing and manufacturing one for this car...


Especially as the TT isn't Type Approved for towing...!


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## gedu (Sep 2, 2021)

David C said:


> Especially as the TT isn't Type Approved for towing...!


Well from 1st post you can see, it won't see European roads


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

gedu said:


> Well from 1st post you can see, it won't see European roads


Difficult to be sure as his location is set as Ireland. Which is still in Europe.

I did suspect he is in the USA though and they get away with just about anything over there...


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Yep, probably best! Though I notice that Dave's project is road legal in the UK, wondering if there are any corners cut there, and I wonder what his insurance company knows! Still, CA and NV in particular are much more permissive.

Ireland vs US - I'm in both, have a TT in each! The Irish one is stock and well kept, the US one is the one I go nuts with.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Still struggling to find an air suspension kit - nobody seems to offer them for the rear. Air Lift Performance only offer it for the front. (see the fitment list on the bottom of that page, lists the Mk1 TT but front only)

May need to put something together myself with their "builders series" and perhaps do some fabrication work.

For the first stage of this project I'll probably just get some solid spacers, so I can use it this summer. Probably these:






Audi TT


Lift kit for Audi TT Quattro A3 A4 Q3. Off Road Audi Safari Rally Tires. How to increase ground clearance on an Audi TT for all-terrain tires. Raise Ride Height on an Audi A3 for larger off road tires. | Lift kits for VW MK4 Beetle Golf and Jetta with Ride Quality. Heavy Duty Skid Plates for VW...




www.vwliftkits.com














If anyone has advice about how I should go about lifting it and what parts to use, please let me know!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Starting with the basics: changed oil, flushed and replaced coolant. Cleaned sludge out of the coolant reservoir.

Now that I've done some of the essential work, spent a while under it, and driven it tentatively for a few days I trust it a bit more. Couldn't resist taking it for the first little dirt road adventure - just a five mile run up and down a 1100ft hill. Rocky dirt roads, some big ruts and bumps. It performed well, coolant temp stayed under 85C, some little slides around corners that felt pretty controlled.

This is nothing, but it's a start!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

I almost ran out of fuel - couldn't read the DIS range estimate, fuel gauge read just under 1/2, VCDS reported 0 litres remaining. Luckily I was already suspicious of the fuel gauge and had stopped at a fuel station to get out the VCDS tool!

Getting started on ordering parts. So far: new calipers, (red!) discs (vented, drilled, slotted!) and pads all around. Ball joints, tie rod ends. Braided brake lines. (also red!) New floor mats that actually clip to the floor properly, new pedal rubber pads, new boot gas lift struts, new DIS LCD - doing the soldering replacement on that myself, and while I'm at it I will check out the dodgy fuel gauge and I suspect there's some damage to the instrument cluster wiring but we'll see.

The initial lift work this summer will be pretty minor, looking at either of these two kits from vwliftkits.com:









Best Lift Kit for 2000-2006 AUDI TT Quattro MK1 AWD Coil Spacer Stage 1 Kit | eBay


AUDI TT QUATTRO MK1 2000-2006 AWD. No instructions included for the suspension. Premium Bolt-On VW Suspension Kit, no drilling, no welding, no cutting required.



www.ebay.com





















Lift Kit for VW Golf Jetta Passat MK5 MK6 AUDI A3 A4 TT 1.25 Inch Spacer Kit | eBay


Volkswagen JETTA SPORTWAGEN MK6 2010-2014. Volkswagen JETTA SPORTWAGEN MK5 2007-2009. Volkswagen JETTA 2005 - 2011. Volkswagen PASSAT 2005 - 2011. Audi A3 2003-2012. Volkswagen JETTA 2006 - 2011. Volkswagen PASSAT 2010 - 2014.



www.ebay.com













Getting some mixed messages from them about which is the right one for my car even after giving them the VIN, so if anyone here knows for sure which one I should use, please tell me!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

After working with the seller a bit more I settled on the first kit. Not much lift but it'll have to do for now.

Also ordered: timing belt kit, water pump, thermostat, engine mount bolts, accessory belt, etc, etc. Strut mount kit, upper strut stop, strut/knuckle bolt, etc. May as well renew the strut mount stuff while I have it all in pieces. 4x Hella coil packs, 4x NGK spark plugs.

It'll be a busy few weeks!

Still working on the wheel and tyre combo. 

Current front runners are these:








Toyo Open Country A/T III 215/65R16







tiresize.com













Wheels:








BLACK RHINO® - BOXER Gunblack (16" x 7", +15 Offset, 5x100 Bolt Pattern, 72.1mm Hub)


BLACK RHINO® - BOXER Gunblack (16" x 7", +15 Offset, 5x100 Bolt Pattern, 72.1mm Hub). Black Rhino 1670BXR155100M72




www.carid.com













The 215/65R16 size has an outer dia of 27", which is going to be pretty damn tight in the 28.5" dia wheel wells. The 1" of lift will help a bit, but I still think it's going to rub somewhere. I'm OK with removing/modifying the wheel arch liner, adding spacers, and rolling the fenders if I have to.

The wheel and tyre sizing problem would be a lot easier if I could use 15" wheels, but as I've read here 15s won't fit and 16 is the minimum to clear the front calipers. There seem to be very few off road tyres that have a small enough outer dia and a 16" inner dia.


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

Awesome! Going for the the 911 Safari/959 look from back in the day?


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Yep, pretty much. The plan for now is just to do the basics and next year put in better suspension, probably air, so I can lift it further. Proper underbody protection is probably also a next year project due to time constraints so it'll have only light adventuring this year, but it'll get filthy all the same.

Basic lift kit on the way, wheels and tires ordered. Exciting few weeks ahead.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Is there no air lift kit for the rear because they are separate springs and dampers?


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

I'd go for the 16" wheels with spacers to get a decent sidewall (just like the old dirty Porkers) and to push the wheel out a bit as if the suspension is lifted sufficiently then the hubs would be closer into the medial line of the cars. Bash plates are a definite I'd think. You're going to eat CV joints on the drive shafts- I raised my Xtrail by only 1.5 inches and it eats them- but worth it. You'll have to get the rear wing extension for the look .. And a Martini Paint job


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

StuartDB said:


> Is there no air lift kit for the rear because they are separate springs and dampers?


I'm not sure if that's the reason, I know you can get air-adjusted shocks too, but from talking to some suppliers it sounds like there's no kit available because nobody is bothering to make them anymore. Guess the car isn't popular enough. Anyway, next year I will add a front air kit (easy) and figure out what to add for the rear.



Spacemonkey said:


> I'd go for the 16" wheels with spacers to get a decent sidewall (just like the old dirty Porkers) and to push the wheel out a bit as if the suspension is lifted sufficiently then the hubs would be closer into the medial line of the cars. Bash plates are a definite I'd think. You're going to eat CV joints on the drive shafts- I raised my Xtrail by only 1.5 inches and it eats them- but worth it. You'll have to get the rear wing extension for the look .. And a Martini Paint job


Yeah, exactly. 16" ones ordered - Black Rhino Boxer - but I also sent an enquiry to Braid about availability for my first choice ones, the Fullrace Dakar in white, they look so pretty. Once I know what wheels are actually available/going to ship I'll order the spacers, probably 15mm front / 20mm rear. Thinking that I might need more spacing though, the offset for the Black Rhino Boxer is only +15 but the OEM wheels are more like +30? The ones I have on the other TT are RS4 clones and are +29... Might need some aggressive spacing just to get back to a sensible width and clear the suspension etc.

Bash plates - definitely. Not this summer, too much happening, so it'll have light use until I can get that done. I'll be making all that myself, I'm not a totally shitty TIG welder and can manage that. Also a custom rack probably.

I've been wondering about the CV joints alright, and wondering if I can get a double jointed axle to help relieve the pressure on that joint. I've only ever replaced a stock driveshaft so I don't really know what's available or where to look. I assume this would be some sort of custom axle - where do you go to get something like that made up?

Or, yeah, just replace axles more often, yikes.

Wondered about Gulf livery but thought that might be a bit too far! Still, the silver paint is in bad shape and is very boring, so I want to do something interesting to it...


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

Two words- Portal Axles. God knows how though!!!


Have you investigated the lifted 4x4 Golf Mk2s they made back in the day?


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Spacemonkey said:


> Two words- Portal Axles. God knows how though!!!
> 
> 
> Have you investigated the lifted 4x4 Golf Mk2s they made back in the day?


Ha, yeah, I don't think portal axles are going to happen on this! A friend pointed me toward https://4xshaft.com/ who'll make custom driveshafts, including double cardan ones, so my plan is to use the stock driveshafts until I break one and then some Learning will occur.

I hadn't seen those, no - found Lifted MK2 Golf TDI and it's a good story.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Alright, tense moment, just how badly is this not going to fit?


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

The basics are good! They fit in the wheel wells with the amount of clearance I measured, so it's good to know I'm not totally thick. Clearance from brake and suspension parts is good as far as I can see, it seems fine.

At full lock one way there's basically no space at the front vs the wheel arch liner but it doesn't actually touch, and the other way it does rub on the wheel arch liner and body at the back.







































Bear in mind there's no suspension lift yet, nor any wheel spacers. I'll get on with the suspension and braking work, and then see what the situation is but right now I'm happy with the direction it's going.

Oh yeah, and there's a totally open inner CV boot on one of the axles, more parts to order!


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## gedu (Sep 2, 2021)

What they did with Golf 2 Country they had outside company to manufacture them, and basically they just lifted body from subframes with spacers.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

gedu said:


> What they did with Golf 2 Country they had outside company to manufacture them, and basically they just lifted body from subframes with spacers.


Ah, cool. Well, that's all I'm doing for this year, I'll look at air suspension next year when I have more time, I hope.


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## gedu (Sep 2, 2021)

But did you know why they did that model?

Many European countries had tax breaks for 4WD cars with certain approach and departure angle and also for ground clearance. Meeting those requirements meant that car would be classed as Off road capable, get a tax break AND would be added to local army database for collection if Soviet Union decided to go Putin...


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Had a little fun with it the other day - brakes failed at 70mph with traffic slowing in front of me, foot went to the floor, no response. Handbrake, engine braking and a lot of luck and it was under control and in a car park, got it towed back from there. By the time it was back, pedal feel was normal again. Leading theory is a sticking caliper heating up the brake fluid and causing pedal fade. Scary moment but all the calipers and hoses are coming out anyway!










Finally got a clear schedule and good space to work, off we go!


























Having great fun just zipping everything out with the impact wrench, it's pretty enjoyable when you know a lot of the parts you see are coming out!










I was hoping to get away with being a bit cheap at the rear but once I realised I'd have to remove the tie bars to be able to get the spring out and the spring+spacer in, I realised I'd also need to fit adjustable tie bars... So four of those are on the way now. Could probably get away with one adjustable per side but for this much effort it's not worth the chance I'd have to dive back in here in a week or two.

Also realised I'd need new drop links at the rear, and the shocks didn't return even slowly so they're out. Bilstein shocks on the way, apparently going to be a bit stiffer, which suits me since I'm already concerned about rubbing when the suspension moves.

Here's the rear spring stack-up with the 1.5" spacer... Going to have a fun time getting these in. I have spring compressors but I think I'll probably have to pull the driveshafts to get enough play in the trailing arm to get this spring stack up in.










So that's all four corners disassembled, now I'm doing the suspension spacers and I can start building up from there. Going to be blocked on shocks, tie bars and bolts for a few days so maybe I can get a start on the timing belt job soon...

Also ordered a fifth wheel and tyre, so I'll have a full spare. It'll look good on the roof!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Some lip on these discs, they've had a lifetime or two.


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## benckj (May 23, 2018)

Very cool, enjoying your build.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Thanks!

Rear body lift spacers are in:
























Had to drop the trailing arms to get the spring and spacer stack-up in, and a little help from a spring compressor but not much. The front, however, needed a lot of compressing to fit the extra 1.5" spacer in there.



























Front strut spacers are in - left has the spacer (shiny aluminium) and right doesn't have it yet. Both are now done and back on the car.

Moved on to the timing belt, and was disappointed to see the chewed up bolts for the crank pulley. Got them out by gently hammering in the hex driver bit, and new bolts are on the way. Hey, at least now I know it had at least one timing belt change since new!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Starting to lose track of what I've taken apart, so I'm keeping a list of the bolts I need to go back and check torque settings on at the end...


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Adjustable tie bars are in!

Timing belt done too, waiting for an accessory belt tensioner before I finish that job. At it for one week so far, exhausted but feeling good about progress.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

The project took a bit of a turn - I discovered that I bought the wrong rear calipers! Worse than that, I also bought the wrong front calipers!

I ordered new rear calipers, sadly not powdercoated red. Worked with my partner to clean and enamel paint the old carriers. The front calipers do actually fit, it was just the carriers that don't, so we cleaned up and painted those too.











When I went to change the oil and drain plug, I found these suspicious arcs of aluminium in the catch can. Yep, I must have cross threaded it on the last oil change. Tried to use an M14 helicoil kit to repair it in place, but I made a mess of that too and really just completely bored it out. Not used to taps as big as M14, I'm used to smaller, but no escaping that I screwed it up.

















At least things look okay down there with the sump off:










Found little pieces of what might be orange brittle plastic, in the oil pickup strainer. Picked them all out carefully and looked around for the source, but nothing obvious. Dipstick is intact, no crumbling pieces there. The tiny pieces crushed easily, so I'm still not sure what it was.









New sump:









I also managed to give myself an extremely painful injury, elbow bursitis, an inflammation of a sac of fluid around the elbow, probably from all the leaning on it, impacts on the elbow from moving around, and just generally abusing it with all this work. That, the calipers, and the oil sump stopped work for a few days.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Interestingly, the new non-OEM sump already has a threaded insert in the drain hole - I see that as a feature! That hole is now plugged with a magnetic drain plug, to better keep an eye on engine health later.









At this point my fantastic partner pitched in to help me to refit the oil sump and seal it up properly. You know you're on to something if you find yourself lying under your car with your partner while you try to use three arms combined to get the job done and back on track, and you're both having a good time. Not only that, but she helped throughout the rest of the project as I recovered with the bum elbow - torquing bolts, refitting rubber bushings, bleeding brakes, wiring the lights on the rack, etc etc. Many posts here mention what "herself indoors" will tolerate, but I'm feeling indescribably fortunate to have "herself underneath" (the car) actually wrenching on it with me when I get myself in too deep and need help. So, credit where it's due!

And if I hadn't had enough of being an idiot and ordering the wrong parts, I ordered two front subframe bolts instead of two rear subframe bolts, oops.








For now we've reused the rear subframe bolts and not torqued them to spec since they're TTY bolts, couldn't get new ones fast enough. New ones ordered, I'll replace them soon.

It's great to get back on track and start building up the brakes, shocks, drop links, etc!


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

My wrong part mistakes, the oil sump, and my injury delayed the project enough that it was in danger of missing the only sensible alignment appointment I could get before I left on a trip, so there was a crazy race to get all the bolts torqued properly, get the wheels on, and get it on the floor. While I cleared a path for the car to get out of the garage, my partner was mounting the wheels in a hurry.

Once she'd got the wheels on and everything else was ready, I torqued the new front axle nuts, threw the torque wrench on the passenger seat and drove straight to the alignment place with only the briefest test of the brakes as I rolled out along the driveway. Probably pretty dumb, but it worked and apparently we didn't make any major mistakes!

Here it is in the wild, the first outing:









The difference between our "eyelignment" and actual measured alignment:

















Very happy that despite the lift, they managed to get it within spec!

Gratuitous shot of the new tyre, wheel and brake combo:


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

The tow hook was missing from the kit, of course, so I ordered one and enamel painted it red.

20mm spacers at the rear, 15mm front.


















And of course, it's still rubbing at the front, but it's not terminal.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

While I had the coil packs and spark plugs out for the top of engine electrical work, I did a compression test.

Dry:






























Wet, but I was inconsistent with how much oil I added:































The dry results are very consistent, so I guess it's in pretty good shape and is wearing evenly. Pretty good, and better than I expected for something this old and abused!

Enjoying these four-pronged spark plugs, that was new to me.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

I had no washer fluid when I got back from the short, rushed trip to the alignment place, and it didn't take long to find that the headlight washer pump was leaking. Not only leaking, but it came apart into three pieces when I tried to remove it.










With no time to get a new one before I left, I did the only reasonable thing and... just plugged the hole with a nice round smooth marker. Feels sort of obscene but uh, it's still in there and it's still holding fluid weeks later! I think that marker was my partner's idea - clever workaround for letting us use the windscreen washers while not caring about the headlight washers.










All these beautiful parts and then... a purple sharpie.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Once it was rolling and all the essentials were taken care of, it was time to start on the custom rack. Cardboard-based-engineering, of course.

















Started with making four plates in mild steel with a hole for the plastic cover, and a rubber pad underneath to protect the paint. The plates are very rough, but good enough for now. Using M6 socket head stainless bolts.

















Using cardboard boxes and masking tape to hold some bars in roughly the right place while I get the tack welds on. Wet towels around where I was working to catch spatter and for cooling so I don't burn any paint or melt any rubber.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Once the first two bars and their four upright supports were in, the rest of the rack came together very quickly.










Aligning the LED whip lights to the boot lid with a broom handle to get the mounts in the right place.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Adding the white light bar and amber dust lights, just throwing on some little mounting tabs for them on the rack.










First test fit with the spare tyre and all the lights. Four dust lights, two whip lights, one light bar.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

One of the first little trips was to bring fuel to a stranded friend:










After that, off into the desert:


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)




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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)




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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

I have a lot more to do, but so far I'm considering this very successful. I'm certain I'm the only person to have taken a TT to the places I've taken it, and it performed very well. Very happy with how this has gone, and on a very short timeline. I've been daydreaming about doing something dumb like this for years so I'm thrilled to have gotten it to this point, and very grateful to my partner who pitched in and did a huge amount of work even before I injured myself, but especially after. Without her help I'd have had to shelve this for a few months and come back to it in the winter, but her efforts kept it on schedule and made it a success.

Future work: Front bull bars, and moving the light bar and dust lights down there. Adding a winch for recovery. Adding a trailer hitch, which I already have but haven't fitted. Adding a bash plate at the front, and lots of metal under body protection, especially around the sump. Air suspension at the front at least, to offer some control and level it out, but ideally all four wheels would be on air suspension - some custom work needed, can't find a four wheel kit.


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## Kenny Ded (Dec 17, 2021)

This build is so freaking cool. The off road / Mad Max look suits the car so well. Love it so far and looking forwards to see where it goes.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

You need to do something about that tyre clearance though.
Rubbing on the arch liner is bad enough, but you're rubbing heavily on the metal body too.
Your clearance measurement is less than zero...!!

It will eventually result in tyre failure or the wheel getting jammed at an unfortunate moment.


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## mk1chopper (Jan 14, 2021)

I dont know if it would work or if the parts are available but there was a mk1 skoda octavia 4x4 which shares the same underpinnings as the TT so you could possibly look at using the springs and dampers from them for a raised ride.


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## rawlins (Nov 17, 2016)

This is just great. Love to see something creative being done with a rough example to give is a second life and years more enjoyment.

Well done. 👌💪


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

Thanks, everyone!

Yep, the tyre rubbing is a problem but it's not fatal. I'll bend that seam out of the way and that'll reduce the worst of it. To be clear, I'm happy with some amount of rubbing at full lock, I just don't mind, it's a good tradeoff for the height and I need every bit of ground clearance I can get.

Took it up a small mountain today to play in the mud after heavy rain and explore some rocky trails with amazing views.

Engine steaming heavily after horsing through a giant muddy pool. Definitely need some under body protection to reduce this!




























Got back with a huge splinter stuck in the front subframe, facing backwards. I guess it got wedged in there and bent backwards. Really, really need to make the under body panels!










I was terrified of cracking the sump open on a rock, most of the trail was like this but there were deeper ruts and bigger rocks, so it was a bit delicate and I was well into the bushes sometimes to keep the body high enough above the rocks.


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## horseoutside (May 29, 2013)

A huge truck parked next to me the other day, my roof barely comes up to their door handles.










Even with the whip lights, their roof is taller. The TT looks pretty cute next to this monster.


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