# Alpine SPC-400TT or self assembled kit?



## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Hi all

I am starting to do some groundwork with regards to upgrading the (VERY) dire sounds from the standard 8 speaker Concert system installed in my roadster.

I have been looking at the Alpine SPC-400TT amp and speaker kit and as a custom fit all in one package it seems to tick most of the boxes for a simple fuss free install:-

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/Sin ... /SPC-400TT

If I did purchase the Alpine SPC-400TT system it would be solely to keep the car looking OEM, I like the wolf in sheeps clothing effect 

I have seen only a few reviews of this system, mostly in favour, but that's not difficult when comparing it to the standard Chorus/Concert system, there is one guy who had an extended test, but as he was trying to win a competition he could be a bit biased - check out AUDI-TT-R post number 7 :-

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... s#p2755634

Has anyone here recently experienced this kit?

What did you like/dislike?

My other idea is to assemble a three way quality speaker system (yet to be chosen - perhaps Dynaudio?) use an old amp I have here and maybe an Audison Bit one processor, but that's where I start to get involved and know it will end up in tweeter/sub builds and whatnot....

Maybe I can save me from myself and just fit the Alpine....

Thanks for your thoughts


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## jokskilove (Sep 10, 2013)

I upgraded my Audi Chorus with the SPC-400TT. I think it's missing a bit of oomph, and could definitely do with a set of rear speakers.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Would you say it's an upgrade or a sideways move over the standard speaker system?

Is the bass deeper, punchier than the standard system?

Are there any adjustable parameters on the amp, I can't see any mentioned in the manual

https://www.alpine.de/fileadmin/user_up ... 0TT_EN.pdf


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## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

on more than one post ive seen people comment that the sound quality is vastly improved when changing their head unit to
an aftermarket one such as alpine / pioneer etc .... Which tends to suggest the amp & speakers is not necessarily the weak point.

I do agree with you though the concert / symphony sound quality is not great. As an interim measure I added an active sub and reduced the bass output to all the factory speakers just to give the system a fighting chance with the other notes ! Its better but not fantastic.

I think I read somewhere that putting 6 x decoupling capacitors on the factory head unit improved the sound too, but sorry no details on this mod.

But you know really you want to get your Audison processor in there ....


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I really fancy going three way, seems a shame to have OEM positions and not take advantage of them. 8)

I know for sure using a Bit 1 will entice me further down the audio chain than I really need to go, but if needs must...


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## nick2000 (Oct 14, 2018)

jokskilove said:


> I upgraded my Audi Chorus with the SPC-400TT. I think it's missing a bit of oomph, and could definitely do with a set of rear speakers.


jokskilove after removing the factory paper speakers ugh.... I had a look at the spec of the Alpine setup. It looks pretty decent, im surprised its missing oomph ? One thing I did read is the DSP part is configurable, did you experiment with the different configs ? I'm guessing its the VCDS programming of sound profiles, maybe the default is a flat profile perhaps ?


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## jokskilove (Sep 10, 2013)

Didn't play much around with the settings, just had the workshop install it for me.

When the car is stopped, there's a decent bass, but when you're driving, you really have to turn it up a lot to feel it. Maybe I'm just protective of my ears  Could also depend on what you are listening to. My black metal is drowning a bit, but techno seems more forgiving


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Just found this looking around on the ETKA parts catalogue:-


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## ph123uk (Jan 29, 2019)

I have the BOSE system in mine, and it pretty rubbish for MID and Bass sadly.

The dynamics are ok, but compared to my old 05 plate Saab 9-3 Aero - its quite frankly rubbish.

Spent most of the weekend making sure all speakers and sub was working - sure seems something isn't right as no way could they think this was a "premium" system.

Just glad I can actually change the parts in this car, on the Saab it was all fibre optic linked to each other!


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Never sure if FO was a good or bad thing with the Saab's, one fella totally rewired his Saab, together with a total upgrade of equipment it sounded pretty good, but caused so many problems.

My TT has the standard Concert system! 

BUT I have a garage full of old Skool ICE awaiting a new home....


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I added a 10" sub with separate amp to my 9 speaker standard setup and it made it sound so much better.

Since then I've replace the standard Audi speakers with Bose, but retaining the standard Audi Amp. The biggest difference I noticed was when fitting the Bose tweeters in place of the standard ones in the dash. Really brought out the trebble, and that coupled with the Sub, I'm more than happy with my sounds now.

Oh, and thats with the RNSE head unit.

If anyone is close to me location wise, I'd be happy to demo it for you.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> My TT has the standard Concert system!


You actually have a Concert HU and what Audi call the "Standard Sound system" i.e. 9 speakers driven by an amp in the boot. Your car could have been ordered with any HU and either the "Standard" or "Bose" sound system.

The page from ETKA is interesting. I have never heard of anyone having the "Sound Plus" added as an accessory.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The "Sound Plus" appears to be the Alpine replacement amp=speakers system that I enquired about initially.

The standard system fitted to my car is probably the worse sound I have heard in a car for many a year, totally appalling and unacceptable for a premium brand, why do they do it?

TBH it bothers me not one jot as it's a fantastic excuse to get busy with the sound deadening, heatshrink and fibreglass in the not too distant future.... 

Just gotta finish working around the car getting other jobs finished first... :?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

happychappy said:


> The standard system fitted to my car is probably the worse sound I have heard in a car for many a year, totally appalling and unacceptable for a premium brand, why do they do it?


If that's the case you may have a problem somewhere then, as mine even without the sub was 'ok'. I've fitted all sorts of kit to other cars over the years, including full custom boot installs, so I've done a far bit of work in the past. To be honest, I think the standard setup is actually a good base to build on.

I think as a starter you need to check all your speakers are actually working, use the audio settings on the headunit and adjust from full front to full rear, and left to right for both front and rear too.

You will have 3 tweeters in the dash (one center and one either side), One Mid-range in each door, and then another Mid and tweeter either side of the rear seat behind the side panels.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

It's all working fine - just poor quality.

I have a keen interest in quality audio equipment, perhaps the bar is set too high


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

barry_m2 said:


> I added a 10" sub with separate amp to my 9 speaker standard setup and it made it sound so much better.
> 
> Since then I've replace the standard Audi speakers with Bose, but retaining the standard Audi Amp. The biggest difference I noticed was when fitting the Bose tweeters in place of the standard ones in the dash. Really brought out the trebble, and that coupled with the Sub, I'm more than happy with my sounds now.
> 
> ...


Hi Barry,
I too have added a sub to my non-bose setup which has helped a lot.
Curious to know which tweeters you changed to improve the treble? Was it the one in the centre or the ones either side? 
How easy were they to change? Where did you source them from? I feel my treble could be improved as the treble is quite harsh and somewhat 'tinny' when turned up.
Cheers


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

CurryMan said:


> Hi Barry,
> I too have added a sub to my non-bose setup which has helped a lot.
> Curious to know which tweeters you changed to improve the treble? Was it the one in the centre or the ones either side?
> How easy were they to change? Where did you source them from? I feel my treble could be improved as the treble is quite harsh and somewhat 'tinny' when turned up.
> Cheers


It was the rounds ones either side of the dash. The covers just pop off and the speakers just pop out, and disconnect the plug. Really easy, like 1 minute easy.

The Bose part number is: 8J0035399A (A signifies Bose)


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

barry_m2 said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Barry,
> ...


You're a star, thanks for this Barry. I'll see how much they are at the 'stealers' ... before I start my Ebay search. Presume left and rights are the same part number.
Cheers


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

CurryMan said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They are indeed


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Is SPC-400TT compatible with aftermarket headunits? I have a Concert II now but I've been looking to upgrade it to something a bit more modern, I could for example ditch the cd player for a tad better connectivity (bt/aux/usb) and a touch screen. As I don't even have an optical drive on my pc anymore 

I am pretty sure it is compatible but just wanting to ask before ordering a set.. not like it will change anything I will do :roll: That "buy now" button is screaming my name.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

There is no reason why it shouldn't work with an after market HU. You would obviously need an adaptor wiring harness such as the Connects2 one.

Have you seen the installation guide for the SPC-400TT? https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/Sin ... /SPC-400TT


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

That's what I thought also but you can never be too sure nowadays. Haven't seen the guide before, thanks for the link.

edit: read quickly through the guide, nothing special for me. Usual everyday stuff :roll:


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The kit is certainly compatible with Alpine Headunits, so that would suggest that it's universally adaptable.

I read somewhere that it's possible to enter the DSP side of things, if so this would make the amp very versatile.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

I ordered the kit (spc-400tt), should arrive on monday. I *might* have it in me to document the install but we will see..

First I was looking for a replacement speaker to the right side door, it crackles so it is unplugged. Would have been a cheap fix because the speaker is around 50eur.. But then again my car only has the 2-way original front setup (well there is that center speaker on the dash but I am not counting that).. It is lame, dull. Nothing compared to the oe setup my 2008 A3 Sportback had and it didn't even have Bose. Only the factory "basic" setup with Concert II and an oe subwoofer in the trunk. My A6 has a Bose setup and it is nice, very nice actually for a 2002 car, can't complain.

And what I have heard that Bose on a mk2 TT is not anything fancy. I am not looking for anything so special but I would like to upgrade, buying separate aftermarket speakers, finding adapters, doing possible wiring and so on.. It would cost a pretty penny and all the hassle. And I got this kit for such a nice price that I think I am going to be pretty happy with it.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Looking forward to a detailed how to 

May I ask was it an eBay purchase?

Update

Just been looking at the kit priced at €500 on eBay and after using Google translate it appears that the cable 8J0 051 440 might MOT be included and after a quick search the cable is not currently available!

So anyone here thinking of buying that kit from eBay please do your research! For completeness there are other kits available on eBay but these are closer to €800!


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

I got it "locally" from a reseller who had a set in stock. Still had to order it from them but got it for around the same price as that one.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Not arrived yet?

C'mon Mr Postman, we are all waiting here!


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

It is already installed :roll: took a few pics along the way but nothing special. Replaced the original bass woofer screws and plastic flimsy inserts with M6 bolts and nuts (used ones with "captive" washers for a neat install) because the woofer element is so heavy compared to the original. I also wanted it to sit tight. It is possible to hold the nut from the backside if you remove the big plastic hatch which is for servicing the window lifter, it just pops out. The middle speakers came with hardware and were plug and play, they get their signal through the woofer. The sound deadening kit included was surprisingly throughout for the front doors and the included instructions made it easy. Precut pieces and pictures where to fit them. Some for the door and even more for the door cards.

Also this set didn't include that said adapter cable and I don't think it is included in any of the sets (maybe if you get the Chorus packet which includes wiring from the headunit to the amp.. I got the Concert/Symphony/Navi kit)  BUT

The set is for 2007-2013 cars, there is an adapter cable included for the 2010-> 38pin connector on the amp end. 2007-2010 has a 32pin connector on the oe-amp end and the connector is the same as on Alpine, pinout is very different.

So I sourced the wiring diagram from our knowledge base, got the wiring diagram for the amp connector for the 38pin and 32pin original connectors. Then I went wire by wire comparing how the 38pin connector is wired to the Alpine amp (from the adapter). Wrote it on paper. Also wrote on a paper how the 32pin is wired. Also the instructions instruct to repin the 32pin/38pin connector even when using the adapter. There are 4 pins with two wires running into it, the smaller diameter wires of these four have to be cut and crimped to a new pin (4 new pins included for this) and installed to a different slot.

So what I did was I changed the pinout on my original car side connector and made it to match how the adapter would change it including those 4 new pins, it is very doable but you need the tools and knowledge how to dismantle pins from connectors and install on different slots.

It wasn't hard but then again I own my own repairshop and work daily among things like this so can't really tell where the line goes what is doable for everyone.

I will grab the pinout diagram from work I made and write it here later.

Some thoughts on the sound.. Well.. It cleans the floor with any Bose kit anytime :mrgreen: -so-freakin-nice-. One of the best stock-style audio systems I have heard. Had to take a detour on my way home so I could listen to it more even though it was almost 3AM.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

So in a nutshell it's not plug and play, that might be worth taking into consideration for some potential purchasers without the necessary skills to adapt the loom.

I am surprised that the mids piggy back off the woofers, it's usually the other way - mids and tweeters.

Are there any ports on the amp to plug a laptop into to adjust the DSP or is it just the flip switches that enable you to choose pre adjusted DSP?

Glad you are happy with the system, when I am ready (gonna be a while yet) I will compare against other separate amp and speaker units, I would love to get the Zapco and some Morels.


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

There are two dials on the bottom of the amp and the instructions have 4 presets and how to turn those dials depending on lhd-coupe, lhd-roadster, rhd-coupe and rhd-roadster. The dials both have 8 different settings so there might be possibilities to adjust it even further but someone would have to to a bit studying.

It would have been plug-n-play (if you don't count repinning the 4 pins needed in any case) if I had a 2010 or later model car. The set I got was assembled in 2013 and most of the parts were made either in 2012 or 2013, the amp was from 2011.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Very good point regarding the build date of the kit,

Older MK2 owners need to make a note of this if they are expecting a simple plug and play.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

83kY said:


> ...
> So I sourced the wiring diagram from our knowledge base, got the wiring diagram for the amp connector for the 38pin and 32pin original connectors. Then I went wire by wire comparing how the 38pin connector is wired to the Alpine amp (from the adapter). Wrote it on paper. Also wrote on a paper how the 32pin is wired. Also the instructions instruct to repin the 32pin/38pin connector even when using the adapter. There are 4 pins with two wires running into it, the smaller diameter wires of these four have to be cut and crimped to a new pin (4 new pins included for this) and installed to a different slot.
> 
> So what I did was I changed the pinout on my original car side connector and made it to match how the adapter would change it including those 4 new pins, it is very doable but you need the tools and knowledge how to dismantle pins from connectors and install on different slots.
> ...


Hello, sorry for the thread resurrection, I've tried to send a PM to avoid that but I can't send PM's yet.

Any chance you still have that diagram?

I've just bought this kit and mine's a 2009 so I assume I'll have the 32 pin connector.

Thank you in advance.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

I've found these, I think they are the correct ones.

Do you have to repin all of them or just the speaker ones?


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Yeap those are the pinouts of the original connectors which I used as a base to decipher the pinout of the Alpine amp as the kit only came with the newer 38pin -> Alpine adapter.

And like I said the original 32pin -> Alpine adapter is not available anymore from pretty much anywhere. The Alpine has a identical 32pin connector which the early generation cars have from factory BUT with different pinout.

The 32pin and 38pin connectors look a like at a quick glance but you will notice that the bigger "portion" of the connector has 22pins on both the smaller side which houses the signal inputs from the headunit has 10pins on the older and 16pins on the newer ones.

There is also an epic change Audi made on the 32 vs 38 pin connectors, they have changed the +12v and negative pins around. Someone might try to fit that adapter that comes with the set onto the car because they look the same and result either burning the diode on the amp with the fuse related and maybe even the whole new amp itself - just look at those pinouts in the previous post and see for yourself, terminal 30 and 31 are positive and negative battery connections, they are swapped around between the iterations.

I have the Alpine pinout at my shop, I will try to remember to bring it home tonight and write it down so someone else daring enough can benefit from it. I fitted my set last winter and it has worked like charm ever since.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Thank you 83kY!



83kY said:


> The 32pin and 38pin connectors look a like at a quick glance but you will notice that the bigger "portion" of the connector has 22pins on both the smaller side which houses the signal inputs from the headunit has 10pins on the older and 16pins on the newer ones.


Funny the extra pins are not even used :?



83kY said:


> There is also an epic change Audi made on the 32 vs 38 pin connectors, they have changed the +12v and negative pins around. Someone might try to fit that adapter that comes with the set onto the car because they look the same and result either burning the diode on the amp with the fuse related and maybe even the whole new amp itself - just look at those pinouts in the previous post and see for yourself, terminal 30 and 31 are positive and negative battery connections, they are swapped around between the iterations.


Battery connections (terminals 30/31) are untouched for the T32 and Alpine connections, so one should really do bad and fit the 32 connector from the car to the adapter while bending the extra pins, is that what you are refferring to? No pun intended, only trying to fully understand so I don't mess up when I face the job.



83kY said:


> I have the Alpine pinout at my shop, I will try to remember to bring it home tonight and write it down so someone else daring enough can benefit from it. I fitted my set last winter and it has worked like charm ever since.


I have made a diagram myself but it would be great if you could verify it, it would give me (and hopefully others) much more confidence on what I'm doing.

Here it goes:

This is what Alpine Amp is expecting (I reversed this from the 38 pin adapter with a voltmeter so I'm more or less confident this is ok):



> *Alpine Amp*
> *22 pin connector*
> 1	Terminal 30
> 2	Terminal 31
> ...


And these are the modifications that should be made to the factory T32 connector to match what Alpine Amp is expecting:


```
Factory T32 connector
    22 pin connector
1   Terminal 30                 leave
2   Terminal 31                 leave
3   Front left loudspeaker (-)  leave
4   Front left loudspeaker (+)  repin to 15

6   Rear left loudspeaker (+)   repin to 16
7   Rear left loudspeaker (-)   repin to  4

11  CAN Bus Low (Infotainment)  unused?
12  CAN Bus High (Infotainment) unused?

14  Switched positive from radio -R- *    repin to  28
15  Front right loudspeaker (-)           repin to   5
16  Front right loudspeaker (+)           repin to  17

18  Rear right loudspeaker (-)            repin to	14
19  Rear right loudspeaker (+)            repin to	12
20  Centre mid-range and treble loudspeaker -R158- (-)   repin to   8
21  Centre mid-range and treble loudspeaker -R158- (+)   repin to  20

Pin thinner wire from 3 Front left loudspeaker (-)    new pin to  6
Pin thinner wire from 4 Front left loudspeaker (+)    new pin to 18
Pin thinner wire from 15 Front right loudspeaker (-)  new pin to  7
Pin thinner wire from 16 Front right loudspeaker (+)  new pin to 19

    10 pin connector

24  Signal (rear left) (-) from radio -R- *   swap with  30
25  Signal (rear left) (+) from radio -R- *   leave
26  Signal (front left) (-) from radio -R- *  swap with  32
27  Signal (front left) (+) from radio -R- *  leave

29  Signal (rear right) (-) from radio -R- *  leave
30  Signal (rear right) (+) from radio -R- *  swap with  24
31  Signal (front right) (-) from radio -R- * leave
32  Signal (front right) (+) from radio -R- * swap with  26
```
* Full name for these signals, as shown in the factory diagram, is _"XXXX / navigation system with CD drive control unit -J401- / control unit with display for radio and navigation -J503-"_

Worth noting, signals form Can Bus Low / High seem like are not used on the Alpine (are these supposed to be used with the 8j0051961b switch?). Does this match what you found?

Thank you again!


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

pedracca said:


> 83kY said:
> 
> 
> > There is also an epic change Audi made on the 32 vs 38 pin connectors, they have changed the +12v and negative pins around. Someone might try to fit that adapter that comes with the set onto the car because they look the same and result either burning the diode on the amp with the fuse related and maybe even the whole new amp itself - just look at those pinouts in the previous post and see for yourself, terminal 30 and 31 are positive and negative battery connections, they are swapped around between the iterations.
> ...


What I meant with this that someone might try to slap that 38->Alpine adapter between the Alpine amp and their 32pin connector not knowing that the supplied adapter isn't the one they need. That what I was chasing here.

I didn't find the notepad I wrote the diagram on when I looked for it and then I forgot. It is somewhere for sure and when I find it I will report back and verify your work.

I also used a multimeter with the beeper option to check which pin goes where and also visually inspected them. Then wrote them down. Did this twice on every pin and then when repinning I went pin by pin and double checking everything. In the end the cables arranged themselves nicely.

Probably the only thing you might mess up is those thinner wires that the Alpine instructions tell you to repin on the car end. But it looks like that you got it right there.

If I remember correctly those canbus wires were terminated at the 38->Alpine adapter at the 38pin side. That they went nowhere from there. Can't be 100% sure how they were from memory but the 38pin->Alpine adapter tells you every bit of information. If the wires end to the 38pin side and they do not need to be connected. I disabled the OE amp from CAN gateway with VCDS so it would not give out a fault code because it's missing.

That 8j0051961b switch is pretty much a on/off switch for the amp. I got it with my set but left the switch below the trunk floor lining where the tools are. When it's on the amp works and when left off it won't start when the head unit is turned on. This could be done by bridging the connecter (I think there was a slot on the amp where it goes in?) It is just there probably to save the battery when the car is standing still for a long time. I think that the amp is always at least somewhat on. If you don't have one and the amp turn on, then bridge the two pins and try again - you can make a switch of your own also. The instructions told to route the switch to the glovebox :roll:. No point because it can be tucked away nicely back there in the trunk. And still easily accessed if needed to by lifting the lining.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

I have finally installed it these holidays, massive improvement over standard set. I haven't heard how the bose sounds in this car but had bose on an rx-8 and this is tons better. Installation is a bit tedious but not specially difficult. Anyway, really satisfied with the results.



83kY said:


> If I remember correctly those canbus wires were terminated at the 38->Alpine adapter at the 38pin side. That they went nowhere from there. Can't be 100% sure how they were from memory but the 38pin->Alpine adapter tells you every bit of information. If the wires end to the 38pin side and they do not need to be connected. I disabled the OE amp from CAN gateway with VCDS so it would not give out a fault code because it's missing.


As you said, CAN bus wires should be ignored. I disconnected both. So the diagram (tested and verified) is as follows:


```
Factory T32 connector
    22 pin connector
1   Terminal 30                 leave
2   Terminal 31                 leave
3   Front left loudspeaker (-)  leave
4   Front left loudspeaker (+)  repin to 15

6   Rear left loudspeaker (+)   repin to 16
7   Rear left loudspeaker (-)   repin to  4

11  CAN Bus Low (Infotainment)  unused
12  CAN Bus High (Infotainment) unused

14  Switched positive from radio -R- *    repin to  28
15  Front right loudspeaker (-)           repin to   5
16  Front right loudspeaker (+)           repin to  17

18  Rear right loudspeaker (-)            repin to	14
19  Rear right loudspeaker (+)            repin to	12
20  Centre mid-range and treble loudspeaker -R158- (-)   repin to   8
21  Centre mid-range and treble loudspeaker -R158- (+)   repin to  20

Pin thinner wire from 3 Front left loudspeaker (-)    new pin to  6
Pin thinner wire from 4 Front left loudspeaker (+)    new pin to 18
Pin thinner wire from 15 Front right loudspeaker (-)  new pin to  7
Pin thinner wire from 16 Front right loudspeaker (+)  new pin to 19

    10 pin connector

24  Signal (rear left) (-) from radio -R- *   swap with  30
25  Signal (rear left) (+) from radio -R- *   leave
26  Signal (front left) (-) from radio -R- *  swap with  32
27  Signal (front left) (+) from radio -R- *  leave

29  Signal (rear right) (-) from radio -R- *  leave
30  Signal (rear right) (+) from radio -R- *  swap with  24
31  Signal (front right) (-) from radio -R- * leave
32  Signal (front right) (+) from radio -R- * swap with  26
```
Keep in mind that "Rear left loudspeaker + & -" are on pins 6 & 7 which are smaller than 16 & 4 where they are repinned to. I did a shoddy job reusing pins from the 38 pin adapter (they are for a rear speaker anyway) but if you want to do it perfect you must source a pair of new pins.


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## TT_8640 (Dec 6, 2019)

Whats a good price for this kit ? when i've looked they always been around £600-£700 which does seem a bit on the pricey side.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

TT_8640 said:


> Whats a good price for this kit ? when i've looked they always been around £600-£700 which does seem a bit on the pricey side.


I paid roughly half of that on ebay. Just make an offer instead of buying. My offer was accepted straight away.

I thought it was pricey even for what I paid but once I received them and took a look at all the hardware that is included and the effort they've put to keep it as plug and play as possible I think it is worth it. Keep in mind that you are getting a pair of 3 way component speakers, a 4ch D class amp and a deadening kit. Probably not the best 3w compo out there but they are very very decent.

The only complaint I have with them is how rubbish the small hardware included is. The mid speaker bolts are too soft for the well-nuts provided (which are rubbish as well). I ended up using my own bolts with a pressure washer through the woofer opening, except for one that can't be accessed due to the window lifting cable guide blocking your access to it from behind.


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## TT_8640 (Dec 6, 2019)

pedracca said:


> TT_8640 said:
> 
> 
> > Whats a good price for this kit ? when i've looked they always been around £600-£700 which does seem a bit on the pricey side.
> ...


thanks pedracca for your reply, i may well try my luck with a cheeky offer on ebay then !


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Pedracca, sent you a DM


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## Larts84 (Oct 25, 2019)

Hi All,
So have pretty much installed the alpine spc-400tt system, thanks to all your great advice on this thread, just getting no sound coming through. This was a lockdown challenge. Does anyone have any advice on what may be the issues. Sorry relative newbie to all this and probably shouldn't have undertaken it, but I thought I would give it a bash.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

What year is your car?


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Hi!

It would also be good to know what have you upgraded (No factory Amp/stock Amp) and if the HU is stock or aftermarket.

Does the amp kick in? This one has a led.


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## Larts84 (Oct 25, 2019)

Thanks for coming back to me.

It's a 2009 2.0l TDi. It's an aftermarket Sony head unit with Apple car play. Yeah the amp kicks in with the green LED light coming on. It's the amp that came with the alpine set.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Was there a factory amp you removed to install the Alpine?

Did you use the T38 to T32 harness adapter that came with the kit? If not, did you modify the pinout of the connector on the car?

I'm assuming you had the standard amp with a 32 pin connector and you modified it to install the Alpine, but just to be sure.

Which connectors did your quadlock have?


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## toasteronfire (Jun 26, 2021)

83kY said:


> The set is for 2007-2013 cars, there is an adapter cable included for the 2010-> 38pin connector on the amp end. 2007-2010 has a 32pin connector on the oe-amp end and the connector is the same as on Alpine, pinout is very different.
> 
> So I sourced the wiring diagram from our knowledge base, got the wiring diagram for the amp connector for the 38pin and 32pin original connectors. Then I went wire by wire comparing how the 38pin connector is wired to the Alpine amp (from the adapter). Wrote it on paper. Also wrote on a paper how the 32pin is wired. Also the instructions instruct to repin the 32pin/38pin connector even when using the adapter. There are 4 pins with two wires running into it, the smaller diameter wires of these four have to be cut and crimped to a new pin (4 new pins included for this) and installed to a different slot.
> 
> So what I did was I changed the pinout on my original car side connector and made it to match how the adapter would change it including those 4 new pins, it is very doable but you need the tools and knowledge how to dismantle pins from connectors and install on different slots.


I ordered the same system and it did not come with the required adapter for the amp. Are you able to create another adapter? happy to pay you, a little desperate here.


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