# Successfull line-out signal / Adding aftermarket active Sub?



## m4k4r0vbf (Jan 3, 2020)

Hi to all!

Can anyone confirm and share any details if they successfully managed to get a line-out audio signal from the MIB (to feed into an active aftermarket subwoofer)??

From what I read through some VW forums, people managed to tap in to pins from R211 on the Block D Multi-pin connector of the MIB....run the signal through a LOC-22 level-to-line converter (or similar) and got the job done.

Would this work for us?

Particularly interested to do this on B&O equipped car.
I appreciate the help!


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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

All you need to do is take a tap from the rear speakers, line converter then onto your subs amp.

Your amp may have hi and low put so even easier.

Keep us upto date with how you get on, I am looking at a spare wheel with [email protected] sub fitted in so will be interested in your results.


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## m4k4r0vbf (Jan 3, 2020)

Gixxer123 said:


> All you need to do is take a tap from the rear speakers, line converter then onto your subs amp.
> 
> Your amp may have hi and low put so even easier.
> 
> Keep us upto date with how you get on, I am looking at a spare wheel with [email protected] sub fitted in so will be interested in your results.


Thanks, but isn't it that the signal fed to the speakers is void of any frecquency below 70Hz? At least that's what I read everywhere....that's why I've excluded this option and been looking for a source signal.


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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

If that's the case let us know how you get on, I was going to use rear speakers to install the [email protected] spare wheel sub,which would probably be sufficient for my needs. But if there is a better way I am all ears.

Thanks


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## m4k4r0vbf (Jan 3, 2020)

Gixxer123 said:


> If that's the case let us know how you get on, I was going to use rear speakers to install the [email protected] spare wheel sub,which would probably be sufficient for my needs. But if there is a better way I am all ears.
> 
> Thanks


Hopefully, the Posi-Taps I ordered will arrive today and I'll give it a go tapping into the front subwoofers (1 channel from each side).

I've learned a few things since I posted this:
-easiest, non-intrusive way is to tap into the B&O amp outputs under the passenger seat (for UK cars);
-front bass are dual-coil speakers;
-rear bass ar single-coil speakers;
-tapping into the front is preffered, as the front subs are dual-coil, thus tapping into 1 of it's channels gives you half of the speaker power (this helps taking load of the hi-to-low converter - even the best on the market aren't designed to run much RMS power);
-tapping into mids or tweeters will mess-up the car's active noise cancellation, so DO NOT attempt this;

I will attempt to get signal from connections 7/8 and 19/20 from the J525 connector (diagram attached).
I'll post the results if any


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## m4k4r0vbf (Jan 3, 2020)

*¥ Update ¥*

Success!  
Got high-level output from the B&O amp!
Connection made as follows:
Left channel: Pin 7 for negative (brown/blue wire) and pin 8 for positive (green/yellow wire);
Right channel: Pin 19 for negative (grey/yellow wire) and pin 20 for positive (grey/blue wire)

These are the primary channels which go to the subwoofer speaker of each door.

The amplifier is under the passenger seat (for uk cars) and is shielded via 2 Flange Nut screws size 10
Push the seat all the way to the front and raise it to maximum so that you can gain enough working space.
Disconnect the J525 connector (the large one) by pulling the purple (or pink?) lever.


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