# Exhaust Flapper Mod



## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Courtesy of Antcole..










This is the actuator -










This is the hose where you need to screw the blank into -










It wont throw any codes as long as the hose is plugged and replaced onto the actuator afterwards.
Some even say it will give you a couple more horses.... not sure really.

The purpose of the wood screw thing is so that if you decide you dont like the new growl or the drone at 50mph, you can simply unscrew it from the pipe and revert to the original setup.

Antcole


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## Big Tav (Dec 18, 2010)

Can it come loose and damage anything?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

When i did it i just tucked the pipe behind the exhaust heat shield and i used an exposed headed screw which didn't disapear down the tube.

It wont damage anything.

Steve


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## SAJ77 (Nov 16, 2008)

I didn't cut the screw down, just forced the head along the tube.....blocked it fully! 

Saj


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Sticky added to the V6 owners thread.
Steve


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## bigsyd (Jul 9, 2008)

This mod looks like the same thing you can do to the RS, if like on the RS the pipe is long enough just kink the pipe and use a tie wrap to seal the tube and leave connected to the actuator


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Im famous at last...!

As long as the screw diameter is the same as the ID of the hose, it wont go anywhere and will unscrew easy enough if you want to un-mod it.
Also worth remembering to screw it in further than the connector on the actuator goes into the hose.


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## AjsTT (Jun 10, 2011)

Sorry so what is the great gain? Noise?


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## TexasTT (Feb 18, 2011)

what diameter screw is used?


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

Why don't you just find the solenoid that's controlling this vacuum line and unplug it? Or put a switch inline so you can switch between OEM and always on.


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## Super Josh (May 29, 2009)

Spandex said:


> Why don't you just find the solenoid that's controlling this vacuum line and unplug it? Or put a switch inline so you can switch between OEM and always on.


Surely, if you disconnect the solenoid then the ECU will log a fault code?

SJ


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Its just vacumn from the engine that operates the flapper.
Disconnect, plug and tuck away.
No fault codes as there is no feedback signal to the ECU.
Steve


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

Super Josh said:


> Spandex said:
> 
> 
> > Why don't you just find the solenoid that's controlling this vacuum line and unplug it? Or put a switch inline so you can switch between OEM and always on.
> ...


From what I've read, it will trigger a fault that will show up in VAG com, but won't throw an EML light. You can put a resistor in the 12v line to prevent the fault though. This thread on Audiworld explains the mod, although to view the photos I think you need to click the link to the original thread on VW Vortex:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1901093

The only reason I mention modifying the electrical side, rather than the vacuum side is that the flap works exactly the same as the one on my car (OEM Porsche sports exhaust) and generally people prefer to unplug the solenoid or modify the relay, rather than blocking hoses. On mine, the standard dash switch works (to put it into quiet mode) but the speed signal isn't connected, so it's either always on or always off... no cut-off between certain speeds like the factory install does.


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## cdavies360 (Jun 7, 2011)

Going to have to ask the question.....

what does this mod do and does it work on the 1.8T 225 as well?


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

cdavies360 said:


> Going to have to ask the question.....
> what does this mod do and does it work on the 1.8T 225 as well?


All this mod does is deactivate the flap valve in the exhaust line, its fitted to reduce exhaust note in town driving or low speeds.

Its specific to the 3.2 V6


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Get back ye 1.8ers this is something exclusive to us V6ers..oops ive gone custom exhaust so mine is now lost.. [smiley=bigcry.gif] oh yeah im getting my own switchable flapper to scare the grannies.. :lol: 
Steve


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

AjsTT said:


> Sorry so what is the great gain? Noise?


...in a nutshell, yes.
For the same reasons folks choose to hoy out their stock exhausts for Blueflame or Millteks.....


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

V6RUL said:


> Get back ye 1.8ers this is something exclusive to us V6ers..oops ive gone custom exhaust so mine is now lost.. [smiley=bigcry.gif] oh yeah im getting my own switchable flapper to scare the grannies.. :lol:
> Steve


....but Steve, your switchable flap is essentially the same as the reverse thruster as fitted to the Boeing 747..... :roll:


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

My switchable flap will give some benefit to the performance of the engine cos once operated it becomes a straight through pipe an bypasses the silencer..granny scaring, a long lost past time.. :lol: 
Steve


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## bigsyd (Jul 9, 2008)

V6RUL said:


> Get back ye 1.8ers this is something exclusive to us V6ers..oops ive gone custom exhaust so mine is now lost.. [smiley=bigcry.gif] oh yeah im getting my own switchable flapper to scare the grannies.. :lol:
> Steve


And us V5ers


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

bigsyd said:


> V6RUL said:
> 
> 
> > Get back ye 1.8ers this is something exclusive to us V6ers..oops ive gone custom exhaust so mine is now lost.. [smiley=bigcry.gif] oh yeah im getting my own switchable flapper to scare the grannies.. :lol:
> ...


Oh yes of course, but ye cometh from thee uder siiide.
Hows ye polisher Syd????
Steve


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## TexasTT (Feb 18, 2011)

I did the flapper mod this weekend and found it much easier and faster to use a 3/16in ball bearing. just push it down the hose with the help of some silicone spray and plug back in. took 2min


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

TexasTT said:


> I did the flapper mod this weekend and found it much easier and faster to use a 3/16in ball bearing. just push it down the hose with the help of some silicone spray and plug back in. took 2min


Good work!
I used the screw method but i wasnt sure if it had made a perfect seal, so i also pushed a button from a hotel pen in there.... just to make sure...
Effectively the mod cost me £130.... for the hotel room....

We should start a new topic entitled - "What have you got shoved up yer flapper pipe?"

In a couple of months ill have a cut off wood screw, a Raddison hotel pen button, a shoe, 3 golf balls, a book by edgar allen poe and a boiled sweet up me pipe.

Anyway, did you like the improved exhaust growl?


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## TexasTT (Feb 18, 2011)

antcole said:


> TexasTT said:
> 
> 
> > I did the flapper mod this weekend and found it much easier and faster to use a 3/16in ball bearing. just push it down the hose with the help of some silicone spray and plug back in. took 2min
> ...


too funny! Love the sound, but my gas tank seems to be emptying faster now. Can quite seem to put my finger on it. :wink:


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## jayTTapp (Dec 9, 2008)

Some V6 owners said that once this mod was done it made a bit of drone when on long motorway drives. So instead of a screw to block the pipe I used a small valve to give me a quick was of switching this mod on or off.

Jay


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## mikeat45 (May 9, 2009)

if you own a BMW with half a dozen cylinders you are obliged to only use a golf tee...(its called the golf tee mod) isupposed you would always have one handy :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## mikeat45 (May 9, 2009)

dont know about a drone makes luverly noise when you give it some stick....
i would have thought that if you were on a motorway they would both be open....modded or not ????????


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

You won't hear the exhaust proper on the motoway. 
Maybe town driving with buildings either sides, makes the proper noise.
Steve


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

TexasTT said:


> Love the sound, but my gas tank seems to be emptying faster now. Can quite seem to put my finger on it. :wink:


Hmmmmm..... Tricky one..... 
Tex, you might need to recalibrate your right foot... Or... wear some industrial ear defenders.
Bananas...... theres another option.... push half a dozen bananas into each tailpipe, that will deaden the snort and reduce the tendancy to give it the proverbial 'wellie'.


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

just did this today and i know im a newbie and may not have as much knowledge as you guys(sorry  ).

is the flapper supposed to be shut when the car is on tickover at normal temperature?

also i pushed the rod and it seemed it needed pressure to shut it not to keep in open.

if someone can tell me if i have done the right thing

thanks

Mark


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Well, by virtue of the fact that its operated by vacuum, the flap lever must pull in or downwards.

Ive never really taken any notice of the flap operation but i think it is open at idle, then as revs increase it closes up until about 4000rpm...... i think.

So its failsafe position is open when no vacuum is acting on it.

Its electronically controlled from a solenoid elsewhere on the car.


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

thanks for that.

also on another subject my airbag light comes on is there a way i can clear this myself as i have been paying £25 a time.

it always happens when seat is moved

many thanks

Mark


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Ant.. If you have a read up on the 3.2 PDF on the community front page there is an explanation of how the flapper operates and when.
Steve


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## Diveratt (Aug 31, 2009)

Might just be a loose contact in the plug under the seat, but you can get OBD II readers of FleaBay for about £ 15 not as good as Vagcom but you can read fault codes and re set them.

Kevin


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

V6RUL said:


> Ant.. If you have a read up on the 3.2 PDF on the community front page there is an explanation of how the flapper operates and when.
> Steve


Ooops.... 

Was that a slap on the arse?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Of course not bud, but the info contained within explains the workings of the engine and DSG.
steve


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

thanks Kev Ant and Steve,

i have looked around at posts for ages before making one myself so i dont look a complete NOOB!!!

guess i got that wrong


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Here is a link to the pdf which is a 12 meg file, so beware.
It is worth a look..
http://www.r32oc.com/TT32.pdf
Steve


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

cheers Steve,

i have already had a butchers at that after you posted.

i can see you will be having a few posts from me

Mark


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

mrblonde said:


> cheers Steve,
> 
> i have already had a butchers at that after you posted.
> 
> ...


No probs Mark, we are all a helpful bunch on here.
Steve


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## Russ 182 (Jan 31, 2009)

Diveratt said:


> Might just be a loose contact in the plug under the seat, but you can get OBD II readers of FleaBay for about £ 15 not as good as Vagcom but you can read fault codes and re set them.
> 
> Kevin


You can get a vagcom cable of ebay for £8 lol. Mines paid for itself about 15 times over already.


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

Russ

have you got a link to ebay for the one you had read a lot of things about them not being copatiable with laptops etc

any help would be greatly appreiciated

Mark


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## Russ 182 (Jan 31, 2009)

I do believe it was this one mate

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-USB-DIAGN ... 4ced5b44c6


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

cheers Russ,

is that better than the orange plug in ones i have seen for about £22?

or am i right in thinking you can only fault read/clear with the orange ones and do some factory mods with lead and laptop

regarding needle lights on dash etc?

is it best to get both as really about the same as two visits to garage who charged me £20 each time to reset after airbag light came on

Mark


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## Russ 182 (Jan 31, 2009)

The cable i linked should give you the ability to do pretty much everything via vagcom that you will require. You can alter needle lights, auto lock, beep when you lock etc. You can also read and clear fault codes as well as perform throttle body resets etc and various adaptation processes.


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)

so you think im wasting my money just buying the orange box one?

Mark


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## Russ 182 (Jan 31, 2009)

Yeah just buy the one i linked mate it will do everything you need and more


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## mrblonde (Feb 2, 2011)




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## Ruaraidh_Gamma (Jan 29, 2010)

Hehe!

Good one Steve, first mod I ever did. Poked an M6 allen bolt down the pipe and put a plastic cap over the actuator pipe to stop road dirt getting in there.

Love the bass at 1500-2krpm.... It's awesome in tunnels with the roof down in 3rd...

Cheers,

Ruaraidh


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Ruaraidh_Gamma said:


> Hehe!
> 
> Good one Steve, first mod I ever did. Poked an M6 allen bolt down the pipe and put a plastic cap over the actuator pipe to stop road dirt getting in there.
> 
> ...


Sent you a PM the other day Ruaraidh, did you get it ?
Steve


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## Ruaraidh_Gamma (Jan 29, 2010)

Hi Steve,

Yep! Got it, not been on for a while so sorry for delayed reply, just chasing down some enquiries in Ingolstadt re: your question...

Cheers,

Ruaraidh


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Ruaraidh_Gamma said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Yep! Got it, not been on for a while so sorry for delayed reply, just chasing down some enquiries in Ingolstadt re: your question...
> 
> ...


Cheers..yeah, not seen you for a while on here..did the Milly end up going on ?
Steve


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## Ruaraidh_Gamma (Jan 29, 2010)

Hehe not yet, it's going on next week!

It's a long story but I ended up going to the track to support McLaren so I've not been at home much..... Got a few weekends now between Spa, Monza and then Singapore etc for the Far East part of the season..... It may actually be Winter before I get to drive the damn thing with the Milltek on!!! Bad as you, away all the time! Or are you travelling less these days?

Cheers,

Ruaraidh


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

Ruaraidh_Gamma said:


> Hehe not yet, it's going on next week!
> 
> It's a long story but I ended up going to the track to support McLaren so I've not been at home much..... Got a few weekends now between Spa, Monza and then Singapore etc for the Far East part of the season..... It may actually be Winter before I get to drive the damn thing with the Milltek on!!! Bad as you, away all the time! Or are you travelling less these days?
> 
> ...


Ferrari fan here, so did you go to Spa? Sounds like you are going to Monza and Singapore, is that right? Super if so!


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Ruaraidh_Gamma said:


> Hehe not yet, it's going on next week!
> 
> It's a long story but I ended up going to the track to support McLaren so I've not been at home much..... Got a few weekends now between Spa, Monza and then Singapore etc for the Far East part of the season..... It may actually be Winter before I get to drive the damn thing with the Milltek on!!! Bad as you, away all the time! Or are you travelling less these days?
> 
> ...


Im working on the rigs at the moment on a 2 week on and 2 week off rota, so i am back home more consistenly.

Ruaraidh works for MCLaren, but doesn't get to see too much of the exciting end of the venture..i believe.
Steve


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## Ruaraidh_Gamma (Jan 29, 2010)

Yep trackside at the moment. Spa was pretty special. Looking forward to Singapore A LOT!

Work for Mercedes though I'm supporting McLaren at the track for the rest of the season. (that was a change since I saw you last Steve so still at the office but covering at the track as well.... phew)

2 on/2off sounds a bit worse than the GPs which are usually one week away then back for a week. Typical GP weekend starts on Tuesday and finishes the following Monday for some guys. I turn up a bit later and leave after the race.

Cheers,

Ruaraidh


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

Ruaraidh_Gamma said:


> Yep trackside at the moment. Spa was pretty special. Looking forward to Singapore A LOT!
> 
> Work for Mercedes though I'm supporting McLaren at the track for the rest of the season. (that was a change since I saw you last Steve so still at the office but covering at the track as well.... phew)
> 
> ...


Sounds like a hectic schedule. I did read about the technical roles at the track, certianly not easy and glamoruous as people expect.

I'm not sure which cars will be suited to Monza, I suspect the RedBulls will be hard to stop. Be nice to see Ferrari win on home turf. It was 2003 since I was last a Monza, it's an amazing place to go... great atmostphere.

I believe Singapore is an excellent venue. Have fun.


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## shauny3779 (May 12, 2011)

May be a dumb question.. I have done this mod, It sounds lovely.... When the flap isn't chattering! How can I stop that??

Cheers,
Shaun


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Hmmmmm... the flap shouldnt chatter....

Is it very loose in the pipe?


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## shauny3779 (May 12, 2011)

antcole said:


> Hmmmmm... the flap shouldnt chatter....
> 
> Is it very loose in the pipe?


OMG Ant!! You're on the ball tonight!! :lol: 
You can manually move twist it, but with vibrations it soon moves back & chatters... What to do..............


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

antcole said:


> Hmmmmm... the flap shouldnt chatter....
> 
> Is it very loose in the pipe?


The flap should be under tension when not under vacuum.
You can add a spring to the external operating bar to keep tension on it..maybe
Steve


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## shauny3779 (May 12, 2011)

V6RUL said:


> antcole said:
> 
> 
> > Hmmmmm... the flap shouldnt chatter....
> ...


Oooh god now er're sounding complicated!


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Heheheheheee... its not too complex though, just have a feel round at the bit where the arm is attached and see if theres any slack in the connection to the vacuum actuator, might be a bit worn or come right adrift even.


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## shauny3779 (May 12, 2011)

antcole said:


> Heheheheheee... its not too complex though, just have a feel round at the bit where the arm is attached and see if theres any slack in the connection to the vacuum actuator, might be a bit worn or come right adrift even.


Oooh er Ant!! I will have a feel about tomorrow!


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Hahaha... oh yeah, give yer flap a good old rummage about and see if its all floppy! :lol:


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## vanboosh (Aug 28, 2011)

Just about to try this, but when I went to pull the hose out, it seemed pretty stuck in there and I thought I'd better check before giving it some real welly that this was the case? I don't have to remove a screw or clip somewhere first, do I?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

vanboosh said:


> Just about to try this, but when I went to pull the hose out, it seemed pretty stuck in there and I thought I'd better check before giving it some real welly that this was the case? I don't have to remove a screw or clip somewhere first, do I?


The pipe may have gone hard over time, but it should just pull off.
Steve


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## vanboosh (Aug 28, 2011)

Thank you! Managed to get it off with a bit of oomph. Then I cut down the screw, put it in, pipe back on aaaaand... it sounds exactly the same as before? Unless its a really subtle difference? Would I be able to notice it with the windows up and the rain coming down quite hard? Maybe I should wait for a nicer day and do a before and after drive with my head out the window


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

It should be a little raspier, but only in certain parts of the rev range.
Steve


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## vanboosh (Aug 28, 2011)

V6RUL said:


> It should be a little raspier, but only in certain parts of the rev range.
> Steve


I'll give it a longer test when the sun comes out, then :wink:


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## rory182 (Apr 15, 2011)

Be aware that if you damage the hose then you could draw unfiltered air into the engine (assuming the vacuum is from the inlet?!) I.e. potential to run lean.

I used to work for a company called Scottoiler who manufacture a motorcycle chain lubrication system which operates using vacuum from engine. Instead of a screw I'd suggest a barbed blanking piece like this:

www.amazon.com/Value-Plastics-Press-In- ... B000P7KFOY

Please check size I just posted the above as an example. I have no knowledge of the hose size.


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

vanboosh said:


> V6RUL said:
> 
> 
> > It should be a little raspier, but only in certain parts of the rev range.
> ...


It sounds more burbley at lower revs. You could hear the flapper take over and the engine go quiet, It can drone a bit a certain revs but I'm used to it now. Adds more noise in the cabin, the low revs are great.


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## vanboosh (Aug 28, 2011)

Marco34 said:


> vanboosh said:
> 
> 
> > V6RUL said:
> ...


Hmm, maybe my flapper wasn't working before as it still sounds the same. So far I've only managed two short 5 minute journeys with it raining pretty hard, though. However, I may just _have_ to invest in a miltek exhaust at some point soon to get my grumble fix.


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## Mixpower (Aug 12, 2012)

Hello,

Does this also work for the 8J?

Or does the 8J v6 not have a valve in the exhaust ? 

Thanks!


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Mixpower said:


> Hello,
> 
> Does this also work for the 8J?
> 
> ...


Have a look around the exhaust tips and see if you can see the flap actuator and if one is there then the mod will work.
Steve


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## Mixpower (Aug 12, 2012)

Okay great, i'll take a look at it! 

Thanks Steve!


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## Kalpz (Jul 18, 2006)

TexasTT said:


> I did the flapper mod this weekend and found it much easier and faster to use a 3/16in ball bearing. just push it down the hose with the help of some silicone spray and plug back in. took 2min


Hi Guys,

I've just tried this method but I felt the ball bearing went in easy and I pushed it in around 1 inch with a tooth pick.

Is this ok? Anyone else tried this?

I wont have any problems with the ball bearing?

Cheers Guys.


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Kalpz said:


> TexasTT said:
> 
> 
> > I did the flapper mod this weekend and found it much easier and faster to use a 3/16in ball bearing. just push it down the hose with the help of some silicone spray and plug back in. took 2min
> ...


You will be fine as long as the ball is a good fit and doesn't allow leakage.
Steve


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## Kalpz (Jul 18, 2006)

I've just been for a drive and when reving on idle there is a rassppy sound now.

It is a little deeper to around 2rmp then it does quite again... no real difference up the higher rev range.


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Same as Steve says, only i doubt it would matter really.
As long as you re-attach the hose to the nipple on the actuator, that way if it does leak a little, its going to be ok because by the time its built up enough vacuum, your foot will be buried in the carpet with a grin like Keith Moon on your face


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

You may be suprised how little vac is needed to operate the flapper.
I have lightly drawn a vac using "me ol gob" and it takes no effort at all.
Steve


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Maaaate..... that means you suck.... :lol:

Youre probably quite right there then, cant beat a sawn off No. 12 woodscrew for a decent bung.

(that all sounded rather suspicious didnt it... :? )


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

Anyone done both exhaust valve and Wakbox? I'm sure I read Ant that you had done this? Does it make the V6 sound deeper or is it just more 'air' noise?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

I did the WAK box and flapper combined a couple of years ago.
A little more beefier at lower revs but then you loose the sounds due to travelling, but JP would hear the improvement on the move.
As a cheap mod this is deffo worth doing. There may be some WAKed boxes out there for sale [only buy V6 boxes though, due to fitment]
Steve


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

I undid this mod at the weekend as it was apparently waking the neighbours up when I was leaving for work in the morning! God it's so much quieter now :-(


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

gogs said:


> I undid this mod at the weekend as it was apparently waking the neighbours up when I was leaving for work in the morning! God it's so much quieter now :-(


Nice one Gordon. My family know when I come home after a night shift at 7am ...
Gets all the peasants up that don't work weekends like me anyway. :lol:

Brian
ps the neighbours love my TT


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

It's only taken a year and a half for them to complain! ;-), I sense a milltek being fitted


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

Must be quiet in Scotland! I live on a 'rat run' road currently. :x Even the speed bumps don't slow many :? 
So I guess the neighbours don't really hear or care about my arrival/departure.

Brian


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

gogs said:


> It's only taken a year and a half for them to complain! ;-), I sense a milltek being fitted


I may have to come round and give the neighbours a new wake up call..  
Where you based Gogs?
Steve


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

V6RUL said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> > It's only taken a year and a half for them to complain! ;-), I sense a milltek being fitted
> ...


Ha ha, yeah your machine would scare the crap out if them I'm sure Steve

I'm about 20 minutes outside Edinburgh


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

So the wakbox makes the engine sounds louder and deeper? Did any of you take any video?

Steve you say it looses sound due to travelling! What does that mean?

I assume then that it doesn't create more wooshing noise. I need to find another wakboxed V6 intake, I'm not killing the current one incase I don't like it. BUT if I did how many holes do you drill? Was it as per Waks website.


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

gogs said:


> I undid this mod at the weekend as it was apparently waking the neighbours up when I was leaving for work in the morning! God it's so much quieter now :-(


How did you undo Gordon? New box? Or repaired old one?


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

Marco34 said:


> How did you undo Gordon? New box? Or repaired old one?


Flapper mod not Wak box Marco..

Brian


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

Tritium said:


> Marco34 said:
> 
> 
> > How did you undo Gordon? New box? Or repaired old one?
> ...


Ah yes. :roll: Thanks for pointing out. I was getting carried away. 

Any of you guys seen my post of the V6 community re handling, your input would be valuable if poss.


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## gogs (Dec 22, 2010)

Marco34 said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> > I undid this mod at the weekend as it was apparently waking the neighbours up when I was leaving for work in the morning! God it's so much quieter now :-(
> ...


Hi Marco,

I didn't have the Wak box just the flapper mod


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

Thanks, Brian pointed that out to me.. :roll: I do like that low rev rumble without that valve 

I was just trying to find info about this wakbox. The 1.8 boys say it's a better induction sound. I want the V6 to sounds beefier not a sucking of air sound. I find I can hear that a bit when I'm hard on the pedal and changing at 6000 rpm..


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

The WAK box is deffo a "sucking air in noise" bit like sucking air in through your teeth, whilst your lips are open..how many are trying that right now.. :lol:

I will reply to the handling Q on the V6 page as i saw that earlier but got myself quite busy..sucking air in.. :lol: 
Steve


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## Marco34 (Apr 5, 2009)

V6RUL said:


> The WAK box is deffo a "sucking air in noise" bit like sucking air in through your teeth, whilst your lips are open..how many are trying that right now.. :lol:
> 
> I will reply to the handling Q on the V6 page as i saw that earlier but got myself quite busy..sucking air in.. :lol:
> Steve


Thanks Steve. Have been doing just that... my teeth are on edge now! Bloody cold in the office.

Ok so that doesn't sound ideal to me. Some people claim a throaty engine noise. I'd give it a go should I stumble across an airbox but highly likely I won't bother. Stopping the exhaust valve from working is enough.


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## BigAardvaark (Mar 5, 2012)

Mixpower said:


> Okay great, i'll take a look at it!
> 
> Thanks Steve!


Did you find it on the MK2?


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## captpicard (Sep 29, 2012)

on a 1.8 150 hp single exhaust ....where does teh mod go?

etc


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

captpicard said:


> on a 1.8 150 hp single exhaust ....where does teh mod go?
> 
> etc


Erm..sorry but you would have to convert to a twin exit cat back before you could have it as an option and even then you don't have the vac reservoir or solenoid in the rear like the V6 have from OEM.
Steve


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## captpicard (Sep 29, 2012)

V6RUL said:


> captpicard said:
> 
> 
> > on a 1.8 150 hp single exhaust ....where does teh mod go?
> ...


thx for teh update, ive been looking under the car thinking where it was , glad to know i havent missed it
shaem that though [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## neil_audiTT (Sep 1, 2010)

you need another 100 bhp and 2 cylinders found in the man's edition TT :lol:


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## A8VCG (May 9, 2011)

What is the exhaust note like at 80mph with the flapper mod - cruising motorway speed?...

...Sorry I meant 70!

Hate the induction kit air noise - personal preference.


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Cuprabhoy said:


> What is the exhaust note like at 80mph with the flapper mod - cruising motorway speed?...
> 
> ...Sorry I meant 70!
> 
> Hate the induction kit air noise - personal preference.


I think it only affects noise at lower rpms.
Steve


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## Danny Wilde (Jul 19, 2012)

Cuprabhoy said:


> What is the exhaust note like at 80mph with the flapper mod - cruising motorway speed?...
> 
> ...Sorry I meant 70!
> 
> Hate the induction kit air noise - personal preference.


I did the flapper mod and I can't tell the difference from before tbh. Still seems quiet to me. So what's it like at 70? Exactly the same as far as I can tell. I will be fitting a non-res aftermarket pipe soon...


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## A8VCG (May 9, 2011)

Danny Wilde said:


> Cuprabhoy said:
> 
> 
> > What is the exhaust note like at 80mph with the flapper mod - cruising motorway speed?...
> ...


I've got the Supersprint 3" Non Resonated piece that will require reduced at both ends and fabricated a bit - Interested?


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## Danny Wilde (Jul 19, 2012)

Cuprabhoy said:


> Danny Wilde said:
> 
> 
> > Cuprabhoy said:
> ...


I might be. What exactly is it that you have? A centre pipe I'm thinking...


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

i have this how do you shut it and open it? does it do it automatically if it does when does it nd why?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

kitcar98 said:


> i have this how do you shut it and open it? does it do it automatically if it does when does it nd why?


Check out the V6 Community page. It's in the engine information PDF guide.
Steve


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

hello just a quick question what can I put in the end will a metal screw work or something? and also some people say the y have just tucked it away somewhere and completely covered the hold but some people have half blocked it up and reattached it what the point in this?

Kit


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Here is the guide bud..
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=218377
Steve


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

ok but whts the point of just cutting a hole through the middle of the screw and plug it back in. I find it all confusing whts the difference with blocking it up completely and tucking behind heat shield or making a hole in a screw then putting it in the tube then plugging it back into the exhaust valve thing whats the advantages and disadvantages?

Cheers Kit


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

The mod gives a little more noise to the exhaust.
Blocking the pipe stops the flap from operating and keeps it open all the time.
Block the pipe and tuck the pipe away behind anything that's there or..
Block the pipe with something that sits further down the pipe so the pipe can be refitted for an OEM look.
Steve


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

ahh ok so doesn't make a difference how I block it up or attach it or anything? so im thinking of putting a metal screw in there and blocking it up completely and tuck it away. will that be ok?

Kit


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

Has anyone tried simply disconnecting the plug from the solenoid (behind one of the wheel arch linings)? Maybe slightly more difficult to get to than the tube on the actuator, but a lot easier to reverse if needed.

This is how most people do it with the Porsche OEM sports exhaust on 996/997s, as although these are manually switchable in the cabin, even in 'loud' mode they cut the volume between certain speeds to comply with noise regulations (it's significantly louder than the standard V6 exhaust). That being said, the solenoid is very easy to access in the engine bay on the 911.


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

It's not that easy to get to, but an option as Long as it doesn't throw a code..
Steve


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

another quick question I have doen it all and put a metal screw in the black rubber pipe and fits snug and doesn't seem like its going to come out. but will this cause problems as I have covered up the pipe completely so the vacuum wont be able to work because ts like stuck so will it be ok and is there anything else I need to do?

Kit


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

anyone?

Cheers Kit


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## Marty (Jun 9, 2009)

kitcar98 said:


> anyone?
> 
> Cheers Kit


Sounds good to me.. I did this mod, too. Enjoy the growl


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## kitcar98 (Nov 8, 2012)

Ahh cool mate can't wait to try it out on Saturday


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## mikeat45 (May 9, 2009)

anybody else noticed the TV ad of the R8 on the rolling road when the blue flame only comes out l/h side ....needs the mod doing


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Not seen the add..
Steve


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

V6RUL said:


> Not seen the add..
> Steve


Hi, Here's the Ad.






Hoggy.


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## woodybuzz (Sep 22, 2014)

Would not just disconecting the pipe without blocking anything also have the same effect?

Cherrs,


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

The pipe is connected (via the solenoid valve) to the inlet manifold. When the solenoid is open, an unblocked pipe would allow a small amount of unmetered air into the inlet. You should always block the pipe if you disconnect it.


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

What Spandex said..
Steve


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## woodybuzz (Sep 22, 2014)

OK, understood.

Mine is just hanging loose and does not seem to have anything blocking the hole from what I can tell by squeezing the tube.
It was like this when I got the car a few weeks ago.

What effect could the open pipe have on engine / running?

Cheers,


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

woodybuzz said:


> What effect could the open pipe have on engine / running?


I guess it would affect the air/fuel ratio so the engine wouldn't be running at it's best, but I have no idea how bad it would be, or even if it would be noticeable to the driver. For the sake of a small self-tapping screw though, it's not worth leaving it unblocked.


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Spandex said:


> Why don't you just find the solenoid that's controlling this vacuum line and unplug it? Or put a switch inline so you can switch between OEM and always on.


K.I.S.S


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

V6RUL said:


> Courtesy of Antcole..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So, if I have this correct: Get a wood-screw, cut the head off, machine a groove in the exposed end (to do the job of what you just cut off) and rename said wood-screw 'a blank'. Then screw the blank into the pipe? I'd have stuck a suitably sized bit of twig in it


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Anything will do as long as you get a decent seal.
Steve


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## mikeat45 (May 9, 2009)

BMW owners use a golf tee.....posers..........wait up i've got one so not posers


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## CR7 (Jun 12, 2015)

vanboosh said:


> Thank you! Managed to get it off with a bit of oomph. Then I cut down the screw, put it in, pipe back on aaaaand... it sounds exactly the same as before? Unless its a really subtle difference? Would I be able to notice it with the windows up and the rain coming down quite hard? Maybe I should wait for a nicer day and do a before and after drive with my head out the window


Hahahaha Im with you mate! I've just done this mod and it hasn't made a blind bit of difference, id say my hearing was pretty good and this mod has done absolutely nothing.

Bit disappointed


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

CR7 said:


> vanboosh said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you! Managed to get it off with a bit of oomph. Then I cut down the screw, put it in, pipe back on aaaaand... it sounds exactly the same as before? Unless its a really subtle difference? Would I be able to notice it with the windows up and the rain coming down quite hard? Maybe I should wait for a nicer day and do a before and after drive with my head out the window
> ...


Are you sure your flap is working in the first place..
Steve


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## CR7 (Jun 12, 2015)

How would you check it was working?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

CR7 said:


> How would you check it was working?


Check out the 2nd link on the community page as it is explained..I believe..
Steve


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## Sycove (Jan 7, 2015)

Should the flap be closed at idle?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Sycove said:


> Should the flap be closed at idle?


No, open till about 1000rpm then it opens.
Steve


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## Sycove (Jan 7, 2015)

Thanks, will check it tonight


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## Sycove (Jan 7, 2015)

Didn't operate at any revs, will need to look into it


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

May have seized.
Pull hose off flapper and fit a temp hose and suck and blow with your mouth, it should operate.
Steve


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## Sycove (Jan 7, 2015)

Actuator and valve functioning correctly, Any idea where the hose gets connected to on the engine side. I can check from that end.
Thanks for your help


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## Sline Red (Oct 15, 2012)

Just a quick question on this, why do you need to block off the rubber hose/ pipe? I thought it would work with just pulling it off the actuator?
Seems to on the Roadster??


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Doh... air leak from manifold?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

I think there may be a one way valve inline but block the pipe off to be sure the open pipe doesn't affect optimal running.
Steve


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## hey3688 (Oct 4, 2013)

Blocking it off also stops crap getting in the pipe if you want to revert it back to normal operation.


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## Spandex (Feb 20, 2009)

V6RUL said:


> I think there may be a one way valve inline but block the pipe off to be sure the open pipe doesn't affect optimal running.
> Steve


There will be a one way valve, but this will allow air to flow from atmosphere, via the exhaust actuator, to the engine (otherwise it wouldn't operate the actuator when the solenoid valve was opened). So, the pipe should ideally be plugged when disconnected.


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## Sline Red (Oct 15, 2012)

Thanks guys, plugged to be on the safe side.
Now got an issue with Haldex the car appears to be 2 wheel drive only, going by the front wheel scrabble/torque steer, check the fuse that's ok, no fault codes on my cheapo scanner. Will have to find someone with VAGCOM on the south cost :? 
Pump or controller probably then? [smiley=book2.gif]


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Maybe you have dislodged the haldex plug connector..
Steve


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## Sline Red (Oct 15, 2012)

V6RUL said:


> Maybe you have dislodged the haldex plug connector..
> Steve


Apparently its been like it for "ages".....women :roll: So I doubt I have touched it?


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

I've had issues with the wiring breaking down 12" from the ECU side plug at the haldex end and Audi can supply a repair kit.
The wiring pins can also dislodge from the ECU side plug at the haldex which need relocating.
I've had both issues in the past.
Steve


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## Sline Red (Oct 15, 2012)

V6RUL said:


> I've had issues with the wiring breaking down 12" from the ECU side plug at the haldex end and Audi can supply a repair kit.
> The wiring pins can also dislodge from the ECU side plug at the haldex which need relocating.
> I've had both issues in the past.
> Steve


Thanks for the tips Steve. Will try and find someone who knows what they doing to look at it after X-mas, before the snow starts!! :mrgreen:


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

Hey all,

Only a year or so since the last comment....  
I've been meaning to look at doing this mod over the xmas holidays, and the last few days my driverside exhaust has been making a tinny vibrating noise, so had a quick look today and it seems that the flap is not working anyway. The vibration is it when closed, rattling a bit, and the fitting doesn't seem to have a pipe attached. I'm not too bothered either way (mod or no mod) but it'd be useful to sort the rattling - what causes the flap to stay open when the mod is attached? Should it be fairly stiff?

Cheers for any help and seasons greetings/etc.

-bearpig


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

So in standard form the flap should be open all the time unless the ecu tells it to shut. So engine off shine a torch down r/h tail pipe and you should be able to see flap, open I hope!

You can test it with a vacuum pump or syringe if not but unlikely you can do it with your mouth lol.

The rubber hose goes above back box to solenoid valve and reservoir that is pretty much behind r/h rear wheel up on the inner wheel arch. Make sure the end not plugged into flapper valve is blocked off.


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## damien.wrl (Sep 20, 2009)

Mine doesn't work want it to, nothing in the pipe and manually operated seems good...


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

A quick look and it seems the metal rod has snapped off where it connects to the flap actuator. So I'm assuming I can just remove the unit, take it apart and replace it with a similar rod (unless it's an easy part to get)?


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

damien.wrl said:


> Mine doesn't work want it to, nothing in the pipe and manually operated seems good...


Unfortunately a 'manual' option is complicated as it requires cutting the loom and inserting a switch with a resistor hence why some just pull off the vacuum hose at the actuator. Important to bung the hole up in the open end of the rubber pipe with a screw/bolt to avoid air leak (yes even a small one can give you issues :? ).

If yours has been disconnected firstly I would find the rubber hose and try to re-connect it (not taking the piss here) to confirm operation. The solenoid valve can fail but this would most likely give you a fault code  If it's connected but doesn't work try the vacuum test above. Remember is OPEN when the engine is off/at idle, closes over 7mph to 3,000rpm the re-opens so you will never see it do anything by getting somebody to 'give it a rev then'


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

bearpig said:


> A quick look and it seems the metal rod has snapped off where it connects to the flap actuator. So I'm assuming I can just remove the unit, take it apart and replace it with a similar rod (unless it's an easy part to get)?


Don't know if you can get this on it's own as I guess it comes with the rear box. Let's hope so or else a scrappy?


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

Here's a photo of the problem - you can see the metal rod that is supposed to connect to the flap has snapped off.


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

Here's a closeup of the snapped rod. Plan is at the moment to get some decent metal wire and tie the flap in place (open) so it doesn't vibrate when naturally closed. I should be able to tie it round the mount - the whole thing is welded in place so it'd not be easy to take off and try to fix.


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

I see your problem. How about getting a spoke from a bicycle wheel and putting a right angle bend up from the end so that you can clamp it to the existing rod? Might work!


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

Could do - not quite sure how I'd clamp the two rods together though...

In the meantime, I've got some galvanized steel wire (gardneing 1.2mm stuff) that I'll use to tie the bracket/value open.


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Something like an electrical 'choc block' would work if you got a big enough one. You know they come in a strip and you cut off what you need!


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## bearpig (Jul 5, 2016)

Right, after a bored sunday afternoon led me to tackle this a bit more, I've discovered two things.
Firstly, the vaccum value bit it's welded on, it's held on with a pressure clip that's slid on.
Secondly, my idea of using wire to hold the value in place didn't work - there's not a way to secure it firmly in place.

I've taken a number of pics for future help for anyone else with this issue.



























Basically it's held together by small clips all the way round. Go easy on this as the plastic is fairly brittle and could snap. It's basically three bits of plastic, with a rubber washer and a spring inside it. Be careful if you do take this apart as the you'll need to make sure the direction that the pipe attached to is the same when you put it back together.









The rod is screwed into the top section. I'm guessing i'd not be able to just get this as a part... 

















Various part details.

If anyone know what the part number for the whole of this section is, can you let me know? Will also ask on the Marketplace to see if anyone's got one lying about.


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## Kryton (Apr 20, 2019)

Just done this mod. 30 seconds work & flap is now open. Just cable tied out the way with a screw to plug it for quick fix


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