# BBS RS2s refurb



## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi all, looking for some info on a set of bbs rs2s that I have picked up. My question is what was the oem finish on these from Audi. I know some people are having them done two tone/polished rims/diamond cut and so on but I am looking to have them finished as close to factory spec as possible. As far as I can see they came with powder coated barrels and centres with the nuts polished but just want to be sure.

Thanks in advance


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

The nuts were a chrome finish.

Plates, centres & barrels were painted in Avus Silver.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Thanks David, I was planning on having them powder coated as I find it to be a much more durable Finnish than wet paint. I'll try compare avus silver with various different silvers on offer and go from there.

Cheers


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## vanilla_ice (Jan 24, 2009)

Hi,

I'm in the process of stripping my RS2's and will also be going down the OEM / powder coated route.

Just wondered your thoughts on masking off the mating surfaces and bolt holes etc.

Thanks.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi vanilla_ice, yes, I will be using some m7 bolts when blasting and powder coating the wheels to keep the threaded holes clear, I have a m7 plug tap to run down the holes before assembling, the mating faces need to be free from paint/powder coat to ensure alloy meets alloy. I found the best way to remove the bolts was to heat slightly to soften the locktite using a heat gun then I used my dewalt impact gun to remove them.

Remember to use a spot of locktite on each bolt when putting them back together.

Cheers


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## vanilla_ice (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks jam13

Will discuss options with powder coaters. I have managed to split them without any damage.

With regards to rebuilding what torque are using on the split rim bolts? Here is a thread I previously joined in on:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1447449

Was planning to stick with the figures I quoted. Have you any thoughts?

Thanks


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Yes, I'll be setting torque wrench to 22 and then nipping them up at 23 as I'm wary of stripping the thread from the alloy rim.

Cheers


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jam13 said:


> Yes, I'll be setting torque wrench to 22 and then nipping them up at 23 as I'm wary of stripping the thread from the alloy rim.


And you really REALLY don't want to snap a Titanium bolt....!


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Today I picked up my RS2s from the powder coaters, now I need to get to work building them and to make a decision on tyres. My options are to use the 225s Dunlop sport max tyres on my Ronals or buy new 235s?

Mmmmm


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## vanilla_ice (Jan 24, 2009)

Looking good Jam13.

Did they mask the mating surfaces in the end? It doesn't look like they did in the photo.

Is that a match for the factory colour (Audi Avus Silver?)? If so, do you know the RAL code (or whatever is used for powder)?

Sorry for all the questions.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi vanilla, the mating faces weren't masked but the guy that did them said he would go light on those areas and he has never had problems in the past, once the bolts are torqued up using locktite there not going anywhere. As for the colour, i went for hyper silver powder coat. I did consider painting them avus silver but to be honest the difference is minimal.

Cheers


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## stewbieTT (Jun 23, 2012)

David C said:


> The nuts were a chrome finish.
> 
> Plates, centres & barrels were painted in Avus Silver.


The BBS's weren't Avus Silver! 
I have an Avus TT with BBS's and the wheels are light/bright silver. Centres are more of a matt finish with a larger metallic flake and barrels are pretty much standard wheel silver and glossier.


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## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

They are looking very nice! I look forward to seeing them built up and on the car!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

stewbieTT said:


> David C said:
> 
> 
> > The nuts were a chrome finish.
> ...


Just quoting what is specified in ETKA.
It has the colours for the wheels in there. Some are listed with more than one colour, but it does only list Avus for the BBS.


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Careful nipping the bolts up, if they are original they are titanium and will easily pull out the thread, as my refurbisher found out to his cost.....Oh and no chrome finish on the bolts just polished titanium....


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Baalthazaar said:


> .....Oh and no chrome finish on the bolts just polished titanium....


Nobody said the bolts were chrome.
I said the nuts were chrome. The big 12-point centre nut.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

The bolts that came with these wheels are genuine bbs titanium. I think the guy I got the wheels from must have bought them new as they look unused 

As for the large centre nut, they are polished alloy, I spent half my night shift last night polishing them 

Cheers


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

I polished up my Titanium bolts by putting them in a drill and then Autosol on a green pan scrubber.

They've been unavailable new for quite a while.
Aftermarket replacements are available, but without the BBS markings.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Got to work building the rs2s, the Mrs was out for the night so utilised the kitchen worktop as a bench 

















After assembling them using the recommended torque and a spot of locktite on each bolt I noticed I was one bolt short so ordered a used oem one from the bay 

I'm happy with how the barrels and faces turned out but the plates that cover the wheel bolts seem to be a slight different colour, I will be taking them back to the powder coaters to have them re-coated.

Next job is to polish the alloy centre nuts and replace the Audi caps


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Here's a picture of all 4 wheels


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Almost tempting me to put mine back on....


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

Looking very nice, always fancied a set of these on mine but they don't come cheap!

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

I picked the wheels up cheap and paid £60 per wheel for refurb so into them for about £440 so far


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Finally got round to fitting the bbs rs2s to my TT. I treated them to a set of Goodyear eagle F1 asymmetric 2s. These tyres have some serious rim protection.

To be honest I prefer the look of the v6 ronal wheels. The bbs alloys appear smaller, at least 1"

If I was planning on lowering the car then I would stick with the rs2s but I know what problems lie ahead with fitting springs only to these cars and there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer unless you go down the coilover route.

To sum things up I think the Ronals suit the TT much better unless your going to lower it. I will probably remove the tyres and sell the rs2s then keep my eye open for a genuine set of QS rims.

Thanks


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Here is a picture of my car on the Ronals, what do you think?


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## gogs01 (Sep 26, 2015)

[No message]


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## newrayTT (Feb 6, 2013)

I think it may be the style of the RS2's against the colour of your car. I have them on my Coupe but it's Avus silver and they seem to suit it better.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Yes, they do look great on your car, your car sits lower than mine and I think as the Ronals appear bigger to the eye they suit my v6 with standard ride height better imo, it might be the colour I'm not sure [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Thanks


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

The original ronals do look far better tbh.

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

After some deliberation I've decided to stick with the v6 ronal alloys, I'm having them powder coated as there was a few signs of corrosion and one wheel had a minor kerb mark.

Does anyone know the oem powder coat colour/code from factory?

Also does anyone know what size the v6 ronal centre caps are as I need to order a set, I can't measure them as I left them on the wheels when I dropped them off at the powder coaters.

Thanks


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jam13 said:


> After some deliberation I've decided to stick with the v6 ronal alloys, I'm having them powder coated as there was a few signs of corrosion and one wheel had a minor kerb mark.
> 
> Does anyone know the oem powder coat colour/code from factory?
> 
> ...


I have a feeling they are Asus Silver as std.
The colour is mentioned for each wheel in ETKA, some came in different colours.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi all, after spending a good bit of dosh and quite a bit of time refurbing an old set or RS2s I came to the conclusion that I preferred the look of the v6 Ronals on my car, the v6 wheels that came with my car were in decent nick but not perfect so I decided to have them refurbed. I ended up going for powder and not paint as I find it more durable. After a lot of deliberation over colours I finally settled on a powder called mercury silver, it's a very bright silver and really does pop in certain light.

Anybody looking for a mint set of rs2s? send me a pm

Cheers


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

Looking good 

Sent from my ONE E1003 using Tapatalk


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

I'm after a Ronal set myself but looking to paint them in greyish (gun metal?, matt anthracite?). Colour suggestions?

The plus is that the center caps will match no matter what colour you paint them. And I think Audi has two colours of centre caps for these


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Yes, the V6 Ronals are a great looking wheel on the tt, a friend of mine just had his z3m wheels powder coated in "shadow chrome" very nice indeed


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Interesting note regarding the Ronals: The center caps are available in 3 different colours; this helps with painting them different than OEM colour.

4b0601170 *7ZJ *gray metallic, same cap goes on QS wheels
Also LT7 - matt black and Z17 - avus silver

The black center caps


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> Hi vanilla_ice, yes, I will be using some m7 bolts when blasting and powder coating the wheels to keep the threaded holes clear, I have a m7 plug tap to run down the holes before assembling, the mating faces need to be free from paint/powder coat to ensure alloy meets alloy. I found the best way to remove the bolts was to heat slightly to soften the locktite using a heat gun then I used my dewalt impact gun to remove them.
> 
> Remember to use a spot of locktite on each bolt when putting them back together.
> 
> Cheers


M7 Plug Tap: Had a look on ebay, but there seems to be different thread pitches? Anyone know which one I need?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bottom-Plug- ... SsHNmfE_GQ

And one more thing: Does anyone know how to get the black barrels/threads off out of the centre caps, do they just twist off?










Many thanks


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

IIRC the pitch is 0.7 and yes, the black plastic boss just pulls out, there should also be a metal retaining ring to secure this part to the centre cap,

Cheers


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> IIRC the pitch is 0.7 and yes, the black plastic boss just pulls out, there should also be a metal retaining ring to secure this part to the centre cap,
> 
> Cheers


The black boss is held in with 3 clips, which need prising out one at a time else it could break.

The RS2 BBS Rims are 1/2" Wider (8") than the stock Ronals (7.5") and the different offsets make the BBS rims 
stick outboard by 5.7mm and inboard by 7mm

The centre cap rings are painted and lacquered, as are the big nuts and the ti bolts bare metal and M7x1.00mm pitch

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,

Just a little confused though: "IIRC"? and one of you mentioned that the pitch should be 0.7 and one of you mentioned it's 1.0, could you please clarify.
If it helps my BBS's are the Audi Standard ones, not the BBS ones so to speak.

Regards


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Hacksawcats said:


> Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,
> 
> Just a little confused though: "IIRC"? and one of you mentioned that the pitch should be 0.7 and one of you mentioned it's 1.0, could you please clarify.
> If it helps my BBS's are the Audi Standard ones, not the BBS ones so to speak.
> ...


Buy both to be sure, they not expensive.


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,
> ...


Genuine BBS bolts are not cheap....£2.50 each x60 = £150

https://www.pwmotorsport.com/pr,55,1x-t ... bolts.html

R


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,
> 
> Just a little confused though: "IIRC"? and one of you mentioned that the pitch should be 0.7 and one of you mentioned it's 1.0, could you please clarify.
> If it helps my BBS's are the Audi Standard ones, not the BBS ones so to speak.
> ...


BBS having been Making wheels for various manufactures for decades, these TT 2 piece split rim wheels included..

https://www.pwmotorsport.com/pr,55,1x-t ... bolts.html

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Sorry just one other thing:
Retaining clips: are these them? Dont remember seeing any retaining clips










And these just click out with a screwdriver or panel tool? Any tips for not breaking the buggers? I'm so cack handed!!


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,
> ...


Good idea, but using the wrong one wont damage the threads?


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Many thanks for the replies and all the info. guys,
> ...


Dont need bolts, just want to clean the bolt holes out when they come back from refurb


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Oh, and one more bit of advice please? Should I supply some cheap m7 bolts to the refurb shop to stop the sand blasting going into the bolt holes?

Cheers


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Sorry just one other thing:
> Retaining clips: are these them? Dont remember seeing any retaining clips
> 
> 
> ...


YEs the retainer ring,

Clamp the cap assembly in a vice gently with a cloth / rag, then push the plastic black taps away with a flat screwdriver
when the plastic insert starts to lift, put a slim screwdriver in the side and prise gently, do one tab at a time...

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry just one other thing:
> ...


Cheers, not got a vice though! I guess I'll have to just hold on tight!


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Oh, and one more bit of advice please? Should I supply some cheap m7 bolts to the refurb shop to stop the sand blasting going into the bolt holes?
> 
> Cheers


The cheap industrial places don't have or bother with the threads, but others do have rubber bungs....

Not only is grit & glass not ideal in the threaded holes, but also you'll not be wanting paint in there either...

R


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Hacksawcats said:


> davebowk said:
> 
> 
> > Hacksawcats said:
> ...


If you don't find out for sure buy both size of taps then check which is correct by comparing with the thread on the bolt before using, you put them together and they should match perfectly, and don't snap it in the rim.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Oh, and one more bit of advice please? Should I supply some cheap m7 bolts to the refurb shop to stop the sand blasting going into the bolt holes?
> ...


So I was going to buy a couple of packs of these to give to the refurb shop (M7x16). They OK to use?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M7-Hex-Bolt- ... 4545109627

Thanks


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> wheeliegood said:
> 
> 
> > Hacksawcats said:
> ...


Possibly, you need to ask them the thread PITCH, needs to be 1.00mm
R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

HI Guys,

I've managed to break the caps down into their individual components (without breaking anything!) So thanks for the help everyone. Just another question: Having looked at the wheel nuts/lugs? They look like their made from alloy and have been just factory polished (not painted). Is this correct and would anyone know if a refurb shop could re-polish them?









Many thanks as always.


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> HI Guys,
> 
> I've managed to break the caps down into their individual components (without breaking anything!) So thanks for the help everyone. Just another question: Having looked at the wheel nuts/lugs? They look like their made from alloy and have been just factory polished (not painted). Is this correct and would anyone know if a refurb shop could re-polish them?
> 
> ...


The aluminium centre nut and outer ring both can be polished and lacquered or painted the same as the wheel centre
by decent wheels specialists...
R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > HI Guys,
> ...


Thanks Wheelie


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> Hi vanilla_ice, yes, I will be using some m7 bolts when blasting and powder coating the wheels to keep the threaded holes clear, I have a m7 plug tap to run down the holes before assembling, the mating faces need to be free from paint/powder coat to ensure alloy meets alloy. I found the best way to remove the bolts was to heat slightly to soften the locktite using a heat gun then I used my dewalt impact gun to remove them.
> 
> Remember to use a spot of locktite on each bolt when putting them back together
> .
> ...


Hi, could you tell me what length bolts m7 bolts you used? if


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hacksawcats said:


> Jam13 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi vanilla_ice, yes, I will be using some m7 bolts when blasting and powder coating the wheels to keep the threaded holes clear, I have a m7 plug tap to run down the holes before assembling, the mating faces need to be free from paint/powder coat to ensure alloy meets alloy. I found the best way to remove the bolts was to heat slightly to soften the locktite using a heat gun then I used my dewalt impact gun to remove them.
> ...


Hi Hacksawcats, the bolts are m7 x 24mm, I bought some genuine BBS bolts from ebay second hand as they have BBS stamps on them and polished them on my drill with some autosol.

Cheers


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

The guy that did my wheels cut up some wet/dry paper and rolled it into small tubes to plug all the holes prior to powdercoating, they shouldn't be going heavy in these areas but it eliminated anything getting into the threads. a quick blast with some compressed air and the m7 tap will be suffice when assembling.

Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Jam13 said:
> ...


Thanks Jam.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Just moving on a little: Has anyone got any good tips can how I can protect the alloys when bolting (not the BBS bolts) the wheels back on the car? I was thinking of cutting up a bike inertube and placing that over wrench and also buying some M14 rubber washers for the wheel bolts, to save the bolts from scraping into the wheel? But not sure if that's a good idea or not?

Cheers


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hacksawcats said:


> Just moving on a little: Has anyone got any good tips can how I can protect the alloys when bolting (not the BBS bolts) the wheels back on the car? I was thinking of cutting up a bike inertube and placing that over wrench and also buying some M14 rubber washers for the wheel bolts, to save the bolts from scraping into the wheel? But not sure if that's a good idea or not?
> 
> Cheers


Some insulation tape would be a better idea for your socket, you can buy impact sockets with a protective surface but tape would do the same job, any colour :lol:

As for your thoughts on rubber washers, please don't!!!!!

Cheers


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Just moving on a little: Has anyone got any good tips can how I can protect the alloys when bolting (not the BBS bolts) the wheels back on the car? I was thinking of cutting up a bike inertube and placing that over wrench and also buying some M14 rubber washers for the wheel bolts, to save the bolts from scraping into the wheel? But not sure if that's a good idea or not?
> 
> Cheers


I don't fully understand what you mean ?

The 5 Bolts that hold the wheel to the hub, do not need anything on them or do you need any special socket etc..because
the bolt / wheel design is not like they have a deep hole they go down... ?

Unless you mean to black off the bolt seats when painting them? which is always a good idea as is also keeping the wheel hub 
clear of paint as this is the mating surface to the hub and paint will make the two together an irregular connection, the paint also when hot can make the wheels bolts loosen...

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Just moving on a little: Has anyone got any good tips can how I can protect the alloys when bolting (not the BBS bolts) the wheels back on the car? I was thinking of cutting up a bike inertube and placing that over wrench and also buying some M14 rubber washers for the wheel bolts, to save the bolts from scraping into the wheel? But not sure if that's a good idea or not?
> ...


Hi Jam,

OK, Thanks for tip. rubber washers: Excuse my naivety but any reason why not? Would affect the safety of securing the wheel to the hub?

Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Just moving on a little: Has anyone got any good tips can how I can protect the alloys when bolting (not the BBS bolts) the wheels back on the car? I was thinking of cutting up a bike inertube and placing that over wrench and also buying some M14 rubber washers for the wheel bolts, to save the bolts from scraping into the wheel? But not sure if that's a good idea or not?
> ...


HI Wheeliegood, thanks for the reply, but no that's not what I mean. Jam13 has answered my question, but thanks anyway.


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Hacksawcats said:


> Jam13 said:
> 
> 
> > Hacksawcats said:
> ...


The bolt seat area shouldn't be painted, it should be bare metal.
Any paint on there will result in the bolt working loose or not being torqued properly.
Same goes for the hub face of the wheel.

So yes, the idea of using rubber washers under wheel bolts is a VERY bad idea.....!!


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hi David C,

Thanks, I'll heed your advice.


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## Jam13 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hacksawcats said:


> Hi Jam,
> 
> OK, Thanks for tip. rubber washers: Excuse my naivety but any reason why not? Would affect the safety of securing the wheel to the hub?
> 
> Cheers


Your wheel bolts should be tightening against the wheel and not a rubber washer, this will most definitely cause the bolts to come loose.

The guys coating your wheels should have a good idea what they are doing, they will likely acid dip then sand blast the alloys, then either paint or powder coat going light in areas such as bolt seats then a couple of coats of clear powder on the barrels/faces/spokes etc,

In the past I've had to buff away some of the coating from the surface that fits over the hub as you don't want this to be an interference fit,

Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Jam13 said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Jam,
> ...


Thanks for the advice/reassurance.

Regards


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Anyone know a good way to remove the old thread lock from the M7 bolts? Tried coke, wire brush and tooth brush. Got most of it off, just wondering how clean they need to be?

Cheers


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Only way is with a die....or very careful wire brushing....a die would be best...


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

I used a tiny wire brush.
Then polished the heads using Autosol and a green washing up pad with the bolts in a drill.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

David C said:


> I used a tiny wire brush.
> Then polished the heads using Autosol and a green washing up pad with the bolts in a drill.


Will this do, or do they need some more work?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What's a die?

What about using a nut with a gap / split to push out any debris?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

StuartDB said:


> What's a die?
> 
> What about using a nut with a gap / split to push out any debris?


Yes you could put a saw cut in a nut but M7 x correct pitch are not a common size that you would have knocking about.

A die nut would be ideal but again not a common size and probably overkill for removing a bit of old thread lock


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> David C said:
> 
> 
> > I used a tiny wire brush.
> ...


That's fine, I usually have them soak in Thinners for a few days...&#8230;.

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > David C said:
> ...


Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh!


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

[/quote]
Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh! [/quote]

Yeah my bolts have sat in a pot of thinners for a month! and they are all good...

I've Finally got (1) of my RS2's centre painted and the ring / cap and placed the centre in the outer hoop to see how it looks... 
R


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Looks a good match, what colour paint did you use?


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Looks a good match, what colour paint did you use?


I made it up myself (My profession) from tubs of High temp 200 degree Solvent Silver and Black...

The wet paint colours go on top of a dry powdercoat primer, flatted down (a lot! because they were so corroded) then a gloss 
dry powdercoat lacquer and final bake. The outer rims were done the same method but in a lighter grey, the centre hex cap a glitter metallic silver.

Such a job would be £150 a piece.

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh! [/quote]

Yeah my bolts have sat in a pot of thinners for a month! and they are all good...

I've Finally got (1) of my RS2's centre painted and the ring / cap and placed the centre in the outer hoop to see how it looks... 
R[/quote]
Looking Good


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh! [/quote]

Yeah my bolts have sat in a pot of thinners for a month! and they are all good...

I've Finally got (1) of my RS2's centre painted and the ring / cap and placed the center in the outer hoop to see how it looks... 
R[/quote]

Quick question (as your in the trade) I was going to have my centers powder coated in gloss black, but I wanted the spokes to be picked out in silver paint similar to the silver powder coating on the barrels. (like a diamond cut affect). Is this a big job for shop to do? The reason I ask is because I've been to several wheel specialists and they've all said they cant do it.

Thanks


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh!


Yeah my bolts have sat in a pot of thinners for a month! and they are all good...

I've Finally got (1) of my RS2's centre painted and the ring / cap and placed the center in the outer hoop to see how it looks... 
R[/quote]

Quick question (as your in the trade) I was going to have my centers powder coated in gloss black, but I wanted the spokes to be picked out in silver paint similar to the silver powder coating on the barrels. (like a diamond cut affect). Is this a big job for shop to do? The reason I ask is because I've been to several wheel specialists and they've all said they cant do it.

Thanks[/quote]

Yes unless the top's machined (Diamond cut) it's impossible to have a clean cut two tone finish even masking with fine line tape is so difficult to make it look good enough..

The only solution I can think of is to not mask the black wheel, but to airbrush the top of the spokes with a very fine thin
spray pattern. A very small amount will spill over on to the sides of the spokes but it'll still look good I've done this loads of
times....

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > Ahh, Thinners! Didn't think of that dooh!
> ...


Quick question (as your in the trade) I was going to have my centers powder coated in gloss black, but I wanted the spokes to be picked out in silver paint similar to the silver powder coating on the barrels. (like a diamond cut affect). Is this a big job for shop to do? The reason I ask is because I've been to several wheel specialists and they've all said they cant do it.

Thanks[/quote]

Yes unless the top's machined (Diamond cut) it's impossible to have a clean cut two tone finish even masking with fine line tape is so difficult to make it look good enough..

The only solution I can think of is to not mask the black wheel, but to airbrush the top of the spokes with a very fine thin
spray pattern. A very small amount will spill over on to the sides of the spokes but it'll still look good I've done this loads of
times....

R[/quote]

WOW, that's just the effect I was looking for. I have asked at several places if once the wheels are PC'd can the center spokes be diamond cut, but all have said it cant be done because it would affect the strength of the wheel. Unfortunately I don't have the skills or the equipment to air brush the spokes. Once I've had them PD'd could I take them to a wet spray shop and have them picked out with an airbrush or would that comprise the PC and the lacquer etc? And one final question: You mentioned that you wouldn't mask the spokes of before airbrushing them and just airbrush them "free hand" so to speak. Is that because (like you have mentioned) that even with masking the lines wouldn't line/match up correctly? The reason I ask is because I would have assumed thought masking was have produced a finer straight line than free hand? 
Sorry if I'm being thick or missing the point.

Many Thanks for your time.


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawca[/quote said:


> R


WOW, that's just the effect I was looking for. I have asked at several places if once the wheels are PC'd can the center spokes be diamond cut, but all have said it cant be done because it would affect the strength of the wheel. Unfortunately I don't have the skills or the equipment to air brush the spokes. Once I've had them PD'd could I take them to a wet spray shop and have them picked out with an airbrush or would that comprise the PC and the lacquer etc? And one final question: You mentioned that you wouldn't mask the spokes of before airbrushing them and just airbrush them "free hand" so to speak. Is that because (like you have mentioned) that even with masking the lines wouldn't line/match up correctly? The reason I ask is because I would have assumed thought masking was have produced a finer straight line than free hand? 
Sorry if I'm being thick or missing the point.
Many Thanks for your time.[/quote]

*******************************************************************************************************************************************************

*Yes, this is how the process is done properly anyway: Powder primer first, then colour on top, then powder lacquer all with hand finishing inbetween each process..

Yes no masking needed as it stops creating any lines, and the airbrush technique if done properly is so small a jet of paint it does not get on the other areas....

If you get them powdercoated I'll airbrush the tops free..! if your near or want to travel to the NW?
R*


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawca[/quote:1jtqw5mx said:
> 
> 
> > R
> ...


*******************************************************************************************************************************************************

*Yes, this is how the process is done properly anyway: Powder primer first, then colour on top, then powder lacquer all with hand finishing inbetween each process..

Yes no masking needed as it stops creating any lines, and the airbrush technique if done properly is so small a jet of paint it does not get on the other areas....

If you get them powdercoated I'll airbrush the tops free..! if your near or want to travel to the NW?
R*[/quote

Thanks clarifying the process. Wow that's very kind of you of you to offer to airbrush them for me, I'm in Manchester! -


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> wheeliegood said:
> 
> 
> > Hacksawca[/quote:3rzx3isl said:
> ...


Only 40 mins away then! PM me when your ready to be booked in...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > wheeliegood said:
> ...


That's very kind of you. I will do. What do you drink?


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## wheeliegood (May 13, 2020)

*

If you get them powdercoated I'll airbrush the tops free..! if your near or want to travel to the NW?
R*[/quote

Thanks clarifying the process. Wow that's very kind of you of you to offer to airbrush them for me, I'm in Manchester! -[/quote]

Only 40 mins away then! PM me when your ready to be booked in...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
R[/quote]

That's very kind of you. I will do. What do you drink?[/quote]

*Ahh...&#8230;... Thatchers Vintage Cider 500ml ! *

R


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> *
> 
> If you get them powdercoated I'll airbrush the tops free..! if your near or want to travel to the NW?
> R*[/quote
> ...


Only 40 mins away then! PM me when your ready to be booked in...&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;
R[/quote]

That's very kind of you. I will do. What do you drink?[/quote]

*Ahh...&#8230;... Thatchers Vintage Cider 500ml ! *

Its a deal!! I'll be in touch when they come back. 

R[/quote]


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Looks a good match, what colour paint did you use?


Hi Dave,

Sorry to reach out to you, but can you tell me if this is supposed to have a screw in it??


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Not sure.
If it's open into the manifold then yes it needs plugging.
If it's a blind hole then no.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

davebowk said:


> Not sure.
> If it's open into the manifold then yes it needs plugging.
> If it's a blind hole then no.


OK, Thanks for getting back to me.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

HI all, anyone know what torque settings I should use on a refurbed set? I'm using the old bolts (if it makes a difference).
Thanks in advance.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> HI all, anyone know what torque settings I should use on a refurbed set? I'm using the old bolts (if it makes a difference).
> Thanks in advance.


Sorry just to be clear it's the 15 small bolts that hold the split rims together I'm torquing about!


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > HI all, anyone know what torque settings I should use on a refurbed set? I'm using the old bolts (if it makes a difference).
> ...


My Bad! I thinks its mentioned on the first page 22:/24 ft lbs, can anyone confirm this is correct?

I was going to go for 22, If that's OK???

Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

wheeliegood said:


> Hacksawca[/quote:1p89h8su said:
> 
> 
> > R
> ...


*******************************************************************************************************************************************************

*Yes, this is how the process is done properly anyway: Powder primer first, then colour on top, then powder lacquer all with hand finishing inbetween each process..

Yes no masking needed as it stops creating any lines, and the airbrush technique if done properly is so small a jet of paint it does not get on the other areas....

If you get them powdercoated I'll airbrush the tops free..! if your near or want to travel to the NW?
R*[/quote]

Hi Roger,

Just a quick reminder of your post


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Quick Question: Does anyone know if you can buy the Audi logos on the wheel caps as spares and does anyone have a part number?









Cheers


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

I'm sure they would have just come with the caps.
Audi only listed the complete centre assembly (p/n 4D0601165K Z17 seen recently for about £80)

PW Motorsport have a few of the components of the centres available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/PW-Motorsport


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

David C said:


> I'm sure they would have just come with the caps.
> Audi only listed the complete centre assembly (p/n 4D0601165K Z17 seen recently for about £80)
> 
> PW Motorsport have a few of the components of the centres available:
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/PW-Motorsport


Hi Dave, no worries, I was just trying to buy the logo's cause mine are a bit ropey and I've just had the alloys refurbed, so didn't want the caps to be a mess.

Thanks anyway,


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Hacksawcats said:
 

> David C said:
> 
> 
> > I'm sure they would have just come with the caps.
> ...


Think they will be hard to get unless a different later car used the same size, but there would be a bit of guesswork involved.
They were a BBS part. I've seen the normal "BBS" caps for sale new recently, but not the Audi specific ones. They will have a BBS p/n on though.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

David C said:


> Hacksawcats said:
> 
> 
> > David C said:
> ...


Ahh, good to know, I'll check if there stamped when I get home. Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

I guess you meant the caps were stamped and not the chrome logos's Having checked the logo's aren't stamped. Oh well. 
Moving on: Re: The plastic center barrels that hold the caps and wheel nut in place (the ones with the metal cir clips). Mine are covered in grease, are they supposed to be? I'm just rebuilding the centers and wasn't sure if they needed to be greased to ease friction etc?
Any help appreciated 









Also just seen these on here: Can I buy them from the market place?


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