# Swapping from a 500hp 1.8 to an R32



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

This is all Copy and paste from vortext to get caught upto speed on here!

So I happened into a deal. A very good deal. I have the chance to buy an r32 motor, trans, tuned ecu and wire harness will all accessories and everything I need to swap it into my TT all for $1k. The motor has a rod knock. It was ran bone dry after an oil housing cracked. It didn't start knocking untill a few weeks and few k miles later. The oil on the dip stick has some light glitter to it. If I pull the pan, throw a used bearing from a 2.8 I have laying around and seal it up. Then I can start it and put a filter and fresh oil. Run it for 5 minutes and change the oil. Say repeat that 3 or 4 times, will that get most of the particles out of the motor? I'm on a tight budget because the money I had saved to buy a swap just went into buying my first house that I close ok on in a few weeks. Unless someone wants you buy a R32 shell I can trade my motorcycle straight up for the whole car and drive it right on my trailer.

Here starts the fun, Im going to post a few pics up. Long story short. Im putting an R32 6 speed manual in an Audi TT. I think it will be pretty unique because the TT only came with a 3.2 DSG from what i can tell.

Motor before i touched it









Crank that is trashed









Brake upgrade that came with it

























Touareg motor that i ordered with 110k miles for $1150 shipped. This even has the holes for the motor mount already drilled!









Big update with alot of picture and alot more to come. So i stripped down the touareg engine and i was just on cloud nine about how clean it was, how little rust there was, how it was just in perfect condition. Everything was mint until i pulled the valve cover off and there was about a 1/4 inch of sludge in the engine. I spend 3 hours trying to clean it out. So i gave up and went ahead and installed my new timing kit. I got alot of it out and was going to try some motor flush to clean it out. Today i changed my mine and pulled the head off and took it to my machinist for a good dip in the tank. He said the ultrasonic would clean it right up! As for the people still wondering about the differences in the motors, i have photo proof that the heads are the same and a pic of the block casting. Nothing off the True R32 yet as it was too rusted to see. Oh, the clutch that came in my $1k swap is brand new too! Also if anyone is skilled in DIY immo defeats, please let me know. There is also text between the pictures! More to come with 4 more packages of parts in the mail!

Touareg engine









Touareg engine









R32









Touareg, From what i can tell the timing covers are identical too. I thought i read somewhere that they were not.









Touareg









R32 head









Touareg head









Clutch

















Sludge

















Also the Body harness of the ecu almost plugged entirely into the car, i have been chasing wiring diagrams trying to figure out what the extra 4 wire on the green TT plug are that the white R32 plug doesnt have. Also if anyone is skilled in DIY immo defeats, please let me know. 

























Made some progress tonight getting things put together, i forgot my clutch alignment tool at home and i wasn't driving home to get it so i stopped there.

Head all cleaned up









Block after scraping it with a razor blade









Touareg oil cooler on the left, R32 on the right, i went with the touareg one for two reasons, firstly it is bigger, that cant hurt. Secondly, i had no way of knowing if i was able to get all the shavings out of the R32 cooler so i didnt even try. 









I was able to use both stock touareg cooler hoses.









Way less hose clutter with the pump removed. I will use straight barbed fittings to remove the t fittings where the after run pump tapped the upper and lower hose. Then i will just put a rubber cap on the nipple on the block.









I forgot to order exhaust manifold gaskets and im tired of waiting for boxes from ecs to show up so i grabbed a can of copper spray and let em have it!









Just a couple more progress pics.


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Small update. THE MOTOR IS IN! lots of work to go but its progress. Axles and mounts are attached. I still have to fab the downpipe to mate up with my old exhaust. I basically have to mate the two pipes to a single 3" v band. Hook a lot of hoses up and pull all the A/C lines. The lines are different shapes in the R32 Golf and TT vs the 1.8t. It hits on the manifold pretty bad even after some bending. Luckily the guy i bought the swap from said i can buy all the lines out of the shell for $20. The last difficult part i have left is to figure out is the two 
electrical plugs that don't match up. I have the green one in the rain tray and the 10 pin plug in the waterfall are different. Other than that, it should be smooth sailing. I spent 6 hours building a bench flash harness and doing an immo defeat only to find out it was already done....:banghead: Now i have to go in and code out all the emissions. I don't think that is gonna be to hard, i deleted and by deleted i mean cut plugs off and tucked the wires into the harness; Both rear o2, sai, evap.

Injectors with terrible carbon build up. 









After some brake kleen.


















This was after i went and picked the R32 mounts up. My BFI stg2 trans mount fit fine. The motor mount, not so much.


----------



## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

The 3.2 TT was available as a manual as well as a DSG


----------



## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

Wasn't it the same 3.2 engine used in the TT, the A3 & the R32?


----------



## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Yashin said:


> Wasn't it the same 3.2 engine used in the TT, the A3 & the R32?


Yes I'm almost sure it was


----------



## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Am I missing something here? Story doesnt seem to make sense.

Did you just throw a new set of shells onto an R32 worn crank journal, or are you taking the mickey?

And why the touareg motor ?? Is that the new bottom end ??.


----------



## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

Wouldn't it just be easier to buy an 3.2 TT manual? #confused


----------



## TT Tom TT (Oct 9, 2015)

SC0TTRS said:


> Wouldn't it just be easier to buy an 3.2 TT manual? #confused


^


----------



## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Well done for having a go  I just hope the 3.2 isn't too slow after your 500hp beast


----------



## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

TT Tom TT said:


> SC0TTRS said:
> 
> 
> > Wouldn't it just be easier to buy an 3.2 TT manual? #confused
> ...


That was what I was thinking


----------



## spaceplace (Mar 10, 2013)

As said the tt did also come in 3.2 manual but they are harder to find than the dsg. R32 engine is the same but think the gearbox bell housing mounts are different, on the plus side this means you can probably fit a bolt on super charger if it's a newer mk5 engine. Did you repalce the chains?

Have to agree with others, it's a odd thing to do as you can buy a tt 3.2 manual but fair play, why not 

Is the fuel pump pressure also different? Ideally also need v6 bumper / rear valence / spoiler, what ecu are you running? Ecu also needs to match dash pod so probably best getting second hand 3.2 ecu with matching dash... Man it's a lot of work but fair play, keep the updates coming!


----------



## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

So let me get this straight.....

You have brought a car with the same engine as the 3.2 Audi TT from the parent company of Audi along with another engine from that parent company to Frankenstein together and replace the 500 bhp 1.8T in Your TT to make it unique and save money???

If that's true this has to be the coolest build thread ever! Definitely keep the updates coming!


----------



## infidel.uk (Feb 21, 2015)

i would rather have a 500 bhp 1.8 , providing its done properly.

Or a 3.2 mk1

But , its your choice/time. 8) 8)


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I hope you are planning on putting a GT35 or similar Turbo on this new engine else it is going to be boring compared to your old 1.8T stroker


----------



## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

Fantastic post, looking forward to more. 8) 8) 8) Clever man


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Okay, I have some explaining to do lol. I just couldn't deal with the 1.8 anymore. I bent a crank, cracked a block, broke a wrist pin. Split 3 mains in half. All in different instances. I parted it out last summer and the car sat in a barn for 9 months or so with no engine in it. About a month ago a guy I know says he is parting out an r32 because it spun a few rod bearings. I jumped on it for $1k. That got me, all the hoses, mounts, engine, axles, trans/tcase, downpipe, both harnesses, chipped ecu, all accessories, manifolds, tbody and alot of other things I am forgetting. In comparison on eBay and r32 trans alone goes for about $1200, that gives you an idea. So the touareg motor, that was the replacement for the blown r32 I bought. It's identical to the motor in the TT/a3/r32 but no one knows that so they are less than half of the price of a tt/r32 long block on eBay. Take a look. Why i am doing this? I dont think the TT 3.2 was ever sold in the US with a manual trans just the dsg which no offence but I REALLY didn't want. Now for how boring it is going to be. I know, it will get a BIG turbo in a year or two. I am currently buying my first house at the good old age of 24, so money is tight again. I Will give lots of updates though!


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

I didnt get a whole lot accomplished tonight. Just adapting my downpipe to my already made 3" exhaust.

I post pictures of my welds knowing we are adults and i wont be judged to harshly. Plus most of it was filling 1/8 - 1/4 gap... So i kinda have an excuse.























































Edit: I thought i would show the exhaust im mating the downpipe with. I made this probably 2 or 3 years ago. Best sounding 4 cylinder i had ever heard. I wish i had better pics but i dont. Its full 3 inch with mandrel bends though.


----------



## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Now things make sense, thanks for the update. Gonna be an interesting build thread.

I guess long term you can regrind the R32 crank, rebuild and sell it on for profit, or keep it for spares.

Didn't know the Tuareg 3.2 was the same motor, every day is a school day.


----------



## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Which in turn means the Porsche Cayenne 3.2 is the same engine !

Porsche even managed to get the 3.2 up to a 3.6
Now there is an idea for you


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Not a crazy awesome update like you guys are probably after. Well tonight was fun, interesting and disappointing all while coming without photos. Let's start with almost dying. I had to remove the upper a.c. line to fit the R32 line that allows the intake manifold to fit. I gave myself acute Freon poisoning. That's fun. Basically makes it hard to breath for a few hours... Next i got my downpipe installed which fits amazing! That led to filling the motor with oil. After that i went to prime oil pressure and that's where things went down hill. I had the ecu plugged in at that point. I turned the key on and noticed I did not have a cel that lit up with key on. I was hoping for a test fire at least tonight, that did not happen. I did crank the motor over and got some oil through it I hope. Oh last thing I almost forgot. In the early TT the plug that is near the fuse box. T10a does not match up with plugs in later mk4 cars, they are a t14a plug. I cut the t10a off of my car, drove over to the guys house who still has the r32 shell and he was cool enough to let me cut the t14a off with a 6 inch lead. I soldered it into my car's harness. I think the two extra wires I have left over are the coolant pump and oil level sensor. My car did mot have those to there was no where to add them. I will add pics tomorrow of progress and the conversion from T10a to T14a!


----------



## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Freon poisoning is no joke, I hope you are okay. As a fridge engineer, we are taught to vacate a casualty to fresh air then invert them and call an ambulance, get them on oxygen once the paramedics arrive.

As a heavier than air gas, it will fill your lungs from the bottom up and prevent oxygen transfer via your lungs alveoli. Inverting the casualty helps to expel heavier than air gasses from the lungs. In the event of needing cpr it can make things difficult.

Lucky you didnt pass out and die from asphyxia.

You ought to try working with anhydrous ammonia if you think freon is bad !!


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

I live in a central us state where kids drove tractors to school. :lol: I knew about the dangers of ammonia, just not Freon. What you are saying makes sense tho! I feel better now! I could not take a deep breath and the bottom of my lungs is exactly where I could feel it too.


----------



## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Subscribed.
Steve


----------



## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

HOGG said:


> Which in turn means the Porsche Cayenne 3.2 is the same engine !
> 
> Porsche even managed to get the 3.2 up to a 3.6
> Now there is an idea for you


So did Volkswagen with the R36.........then they spoiled it by putting it in a Passat...


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Some good news tonight with pics and video coming tomorrow. I got it to almost start. I'm down to like 8 codes. 4 are for not having rear o2 sensors, evap and a few other things but the one I'm trying to fix is p0230. It's a wiring problem that I cannot figure out. The car starts for 1 second and immediately dies out like it stops getting fuel. It's not immo because the ecu is immo defeated. I still have to do some wiring with the cluster because I thought for about an hour and a half tonight that the ecu was getting no power or half power because the CEL was not lighting up. I have a code for cluster signal missing. I have an 02 cluster in a 00 car and had to add can + - wires last time and those didn't get pinned into the r32 ecu yet so that should fix that, however I need to solve the relay issue. Anyone have an idea? P0230 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Malfunction in Primary Circuit


----------



## spaceplace (Mar 10, 2013)

Would it be easier to buy a 3.2 ecu with matching cluster? Everything should pretty much just work then, including immobiliser. It sounds like immobiliser, the way it turns off after a second but if your sure it's not that then it could be fuel, the 1.8 primes the fuel pump with ignition, whereas the 3.2 primes it when you open the drivers door, also does the 1.8 and 3.2 use the same pump and pressure? If not this could be the problem


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Good call on the way it primes, 100% sure its immo defeated. I spent 6 hours learning to do it myself and once i got into the ecu, it was already done. Now the way it primes, i did not think about that, that gives me a place to start. Fuel pressure is set by the regulator, not the pump. So that should be a non issue as i have the R32 fuel rail and fpr. I do think its fuel related though. And i gotta figure out the P0230 as well i know the two are related. Not any documentation online though :/ Thanks for the ideas!


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Put in 11 hours today and got hardly anything done. I wired in the last body plug in the rain tray, i printed out huge wiring diagrams to trace wires on and got the fuel pump relay and trigger wire sorted out, so thats nice. And to retract my previous statement, i'm 100% sure the ecu is not immo defeated and i spent 8 hours trying to immo off this damn thing. If anyone has experience with ME7.1.1 i would love to chat. Everytime i flash a bin with immo off and then read the bin back, the ecu undoes the immo off....


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Is the ECU is the standard TT S3 part?

Pretty sure you can't flash a map's bin with immo defeated.
It's a separate chip on the ECU, you need to do something to on a bench.
Neferiousmotorsport web site will probably have details.

What were you changing in tunerpro to try and defeat immo?


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

You can buy ECUs with immo defeated online for about £80.


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Stuart I didn't even think to look online, I just assumed figure it out because I enjoy that type of thing and since this was budget oriented, it would save a few dollars. I read nefmoto for like 3 days straight. I read over 80 pages last night :/ I was counting. Yoiu are correct tho, the eeprom is where the immo is, it's literally changing 2 number from 1 to 2 and the changing two more checksums from whatever they are to 1 tiger less. Also just so everyone knows if they try this, the r32 ecu is different than all or all the other mk4 ecus and is more of a pita to work with. I have someone from nefmoto helping me now, I hope to send you guys a running video soon!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So even though r32 is me7 you can map the immo defeat in the common map via an xdf helper?

What checksum tool are you using? I just downloaded the free (for personal use) tuner-pro checksum plug-in. For S3 and TT wideband ECUs you need to open the ECU and "hot wire" immobiliser chip legs. To be fair no-one really bothers with nicking cars, wheels or stereos anymore, and an immobiliser is more bother than its worth. Thrives realised transferring money out of someone's account into yours is much less energetic.


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Im not using a tool because i cant find one that works with me7.1.1. I do the checksums by hand. I have also been grounding pin 24 exactly as you mention and my bins say they are successfully writing but they seem not to be.

Click on the picture, its a video.


----------



## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

In the video, everything seems to momentarily go off as you crank the engine. Is that normal, or have you got a massive volt drop in your cables ??


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

When I mucked up the check sum on my first map change, the engine started the car run, then on restart it fails to start unless the battery is disconnected for hours. Because the checksum is only validated after the car has started.

Have you run me7check?


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)




----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Well done, it sounds wild


----------



## Pukmeister (Dec 27, 2017)

Well done indeed !


----------



## SC0TTRS (Oct 23, 2016)

Sounds a beast!, well done 8)


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Update that should have been posted sunday night, sorry for the delay! It sounds wild because its off a half of tooth in timing i think... [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I have tried to re time it three times on the cam shaft side and its off. Next i am going to try and move the chain around the intermediate shaft one tooth. That should be the solution. I hope.

My new coolant ball showed up today, i CANNOT wait to get it in. 



























Click on this one.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/25mDW


----------



## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Time for a new chain :?:


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

Its has all new tensioners, guides and chains... It is so close that when i line the mark on the harmonic balancer up, i can slide my cam lock tool in. I still throw codes for cam correlation and it sounds cammed at idle. Tonight i am going to take a hard look at the marks on the cam caps vs the marks on the adjusters and see if it really is a half of tooth off. If so, im going to try and figure out how to pop the chain around the intermediate sprocket with the lower timing cover on still... Wish me luck.


----------



## Alec's TT (Dec 9, 2010)

It's been a heck of a few days, not sure where to begin. I think a thanks to all of you are in order. Next I have a whole list of things that have been fixed and a list of stuff that still needs to be fixed.

Fixed: 
-Fuel pump always on with key, wrong relay.
-J17 open circuit but car runs. Wrong relay.
-Sai open circuit, wrong relay. 
Those all got mixed up when I couldn't get the car to start because the fuel pump trigger wire was different. 
-8 more open circuit code cleared with resistors. 1/2 watt, 330 ohm. 
-Timing, not sure it was actually off..... I re did it and got the same codes after getting the engine back in and started again. I have 6 cam pos sensors and only 2 out of the 6 are actually good I think. I finally do not get the correlation codes and can see values in measuring blocks 208 and 209.
-speedo wiring, speedo works now.

Needs fixed:
-Tach, wiring. Need to trace flow charts tomorrow.
-Fwd only in awd car... Haldex pump always running with key on, only spins front tires. I don't even know where to start. 
-Evap solenoid 2 and exhaust flap open circuit. Can't find the plugs to add resistors, I am just going to read my diagrams and resistor them in the main harness in the rain tray. 
-Check engine light does not work. I have an idea that it's wiring. Will read flow charts. 
-Oil pressure warning is on. Goes off when I unplug sensor. This concerns me. Not sure where to start. 
-Can't find coolant ball plug. Need to tie those two wires together to silence the alarm. 
-Excessive errors on all modules when I auto scan vcds. Not sure where to start.

I think that's it. All went well re Timing the motor. I think it might have been off one tooth on the intermediate sprocket, not sure after the sensor deal. Also I realised I did not have new flywheel bolts, that was annoying. I reused them with alot of blue locktite. I only gave them like a 45 degree stretch to not risk breaking the heads off....


----------

