# How to door handle,footwell & puddle lights.



## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

Due to the pm's I have received from a previous post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=148223.
I thought I'd just put this how to together to hopefully help those who would like to attempt it forthemselves. I'm no expert myself but am always willing to give it a go and if it fails, I'll try again until I get it right.
So if you have any Q's I'll do my best to answer - I am not going to go to every last detail such as how to route cables etc but can tell you I will where possible follow existing looms and always make the job look neat which usually also means safe too a little thought and the use of the most important tool in the box (Your eyes) saves a shite load of grief later.
















I used these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0366343368 which come with the resistors you'll need








First job was to remove the smd to do this i used a craft knife as a lever beneath it whilst desoldering one side at a time.









Take note that the bulb is marked to show polarity i.e. this is Neg "-" 









I have used house alarm cable, this is about the same gauge as telephone cable .
Here you can see that the insulation has burnt back and that the cable continues on . Trim the tails at the arrows flush with the bulbs.









Here you can see I have forced the insulation forward as far as
possible by holding the other end of the copper cable with a pliers
and using thumb and forefinger to force the insulation along the full length of the cable until I get the insulation against the smd.









To remove the handle from the door, open the door and look at it end on, there is a hole obviously handle height and is positioned towards the outer skin of the door. 
Now pull the door handle whilst using a Torx 20 driver (yes it will do it) to unscrew the screw. This screw is only rotating a formed plate 20 degrees or so approx 6 - 8 turns and is not meant to be fully removed as this will lead unnecessary work and fiddling around so be careful.
















Now ease out the lock to reveal the cable housing, just take note of the position of the cable with in the handle - you will need to get that back as close to it's original position for the door to open properly now disconnect the cable.









Pull the handle towards the now open lock space as shown.

















Ease back the rubber cover (1) I used a dremmel to remove the web castings (2) to allow the smd and cables to be inserted .









Machine out a hole to accept the smd. A little at a time checking as you go by offering the smd until your happy with the fit









Place a spot of hot glue in front of the smd to create a protective film.









Thread the cables through the rubber, cut the rubber (1) Insert the smd and seal with a hot glue gun (2)this will insulate and water proof the parts, pull the rubber forward whilst the glue is still hot(3)









Refitting the handle is just a reverse of the removal procedure - if when you try to open the door you find it doesn't open properly e.g. needs to be pulled twice you will need put more tension on the cable.
I have also run another 2 smds into the mirror to cast light onto the floor again fixing and insulating them using the hot glue gun with a clear glue.
To remove the door card pull back the rubber seals at both ends of the door.
















Twist off the casting piece of the inner door handle and remove the bolt.








Now before you attemp to remove the door card get yourself a small flat screw driver or similar to hand this wil be used to split the wiring connections for the window switches etc.
To remove the door card you need to ease it upwards, then release the door handle cable









Now split the wiring connections.









I have also fitted the lights to the bottom of the door card which subtly lights the floor once the door is open.
And to the footwells all of these lights will dim as per the interior lights









Don't forget to put in the resistor 1 for every 3 or 4 smds which is simply soldered in series with a tail then running to the main loom as link below.








To wire into the interior light circuit.
Remove the trim from the side of the dash(passenger side) this just pulls off I used a plasic rule to get under it initially until I got enough clearance to get a grip on it. This will reveal another cover held in with screws (arrowed) remove this also and note where the circle is you'll find the loom.


















Carefully cut into the outer sheathing to reveal the cables just tap into these as shown of at first the light will not come on try swapping the wires as they do need to be the correct way around.
a= Red with Black trace
b= Brown with White trace

There not too difficult for anyone no magic involved just lots of time a little thought and an almost invisible mode that looks quite nice without going too overboard.

Any questions I'll do my best to answer using my limited knowledge.


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## T3RBO (Dec 9, 2003)

Fantastic write up [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## antcole (Apr 4, 2009)

Very nice.

Nice and neat...... good how to, mate. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## chrishTT (May 14, 2006)

nice write up wouldlove to take this one on
on a 1-5 how hard is it to do
and time taken to do


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## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

might do that later, I have 10 minutes to spare...! :roll:

looks great, and a fantastic write up....a little too complex for my skills though think!


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## stevebeechTA (May 16, 2009)

Excellent right up, I fancy having a go at the door handle LED but it looks as if it will take some time to do.


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

What a fantastic HowTo write-up and thanks for sharing it with us [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## smarties24 (May 22, 2009)

Awesome write up, cheers! All i need to do now is find the courage to try it :roll:


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Thanks to Mark for this, fantastic detailed write up. 
I have been doing the prep for this over the last few days, unsoldering the SMD's etc and today I did the deed  
I did the external door handles, puddle lights and, while the door cards were off I did the internal door handles in red. 
The effect (especially the outside door handles) is totally stunning and makes such a difference to the car, I can wholly recommend it to anyone even thinking of doing it :wink:


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

Took a couple of reads for it to go in but that's a great write up ... was just going to attempt puddle lights and interior pull handle but reckon I'll have a go at the external handle as well after reading this.

I want the lights to come on with the key fob remote locking/unlocking and when the doors open and then dim when they closed .... am I right in understanding that locating and cutting into the loom at the side of the dash negates the need to run cables up into the interior light ... prising cables into the pillars was putting me off attempting any of it.


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

taTTy said:


> Took a couple of reads for it to go in but that's a great write up ... was just going to attempt puddle lights and interior pull handle but reckon I'll have a go at the external handle as well after reading this.
> 
> I want the lights to come on with the key fob remote locking/unlocking and when the doors open and then dim when they closed .... am I right in understanding that locating and cutting into the loom at the side of the dash negates the need to run cables up into the interior light ... prising cables into the pillars was putting me off attempting any of it.


Yep, thats what I did, took my feed from the passenger side behind the glove box 8)


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

taTTy said:


> Took a couple of reads for it to go in but that's a great write up ... was just going to attempt puddle lights and interior pull handle but reckon I'll have a go at the external handle as well after reading this.
> 
> I want the lights to come on with the key fob remote locking/unlocking and when the doors open and then dim when they closed .... am I right in understanding that locating and cutting into the loom at the side of the dash negates the need to run cables up into the interior light ... prising cables into the pillars was putting me off attempting any of it.


Yes mate, all the funtions are exactly as the interior lights when operated from the key. I could do this mode in about 3 hours 2nd time around but allow yourself a day for the first time.

Rgds

Mark


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

chrishTT said:


> nice write up wouldlove to take this one on
> on a 1-5 how hard is it to do
> and time taken to do


I'd say it's a 2 but it is time consuming and not so much fun in this cold weather.

Mark


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## Daz8n (Sep 22, 2009)

If you're wiring into the interior light circuit so when you unlock the car the puddle and handle lights come on... does that mean they will come on when you switch the interior light on by the switch??? Sorry for my ignorance. I plan to do this soon!!


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

I'm pretty sure that the only time they come on is when you operate the central locking from the remote key and when you remove the key from the ignition or open the doors, sorry I can't check this for you at the moment as I don't have the car at home for at least a couple of weeks. I'm sure Thundercat will answer that question if you pm him, he has just done the mod last weekend.

Rgds

Mark


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Just got home so will go and check in a bit 8)


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Daz8n said:


> If you're wiring into the interior light circuit so when you unlock the car the puddle and handle lights come on... does that mean they will come on when you switch the interior light on by the switch??? Sorry for my ignorance. I plan to do this soon!!


No, just checked and turning the interior lights on doesnt activate them :wink:


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## Daz8n (Sep 22, 2009)

Cool, bought 20 white smds and 10 red to maybe do some interior stuff. What cable have you used? I've got access to various different types. Also did either of you look at putting puddle lights in the sill rather than the mirror?


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Not done SMD's in mirrors yet, will wait till I mod them for indicators an do both together. 
I have done puddle lights in the bottom of the doorcards though, used some preformed SMD strips so very easy to fit. 
I used alarm type cable as it needs to be thin and flexable to get through the door handles. Also needs to be small enough to solder to the lights :wink:


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## XTR (Mar 2, 2006)

How waterproof are those SMD's?


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

I used a hot glue gun and smeared a thin layer on the door handle SMD, as suggested by harrismhome. When it's on the car it can't be seen but keeps the wet stuff out.


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

Can I just ask, is it the same for wiring them up on the drivers side? is there a similar loom that you tap in to, or do you have to branch off from the passengers side loom?


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

I took my feed from next to the glovebox, then split the cable so I had a feed going to each door... if that makes sense? Also took a feed from behind the cig lighter for my red footwell and interior pull handle lights 8)


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## Sickboy (Oct 13, 2004)

Ok so just the feed from the passenger side for both door handles, ok ta!


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

XTR said:


> How waterproof are those SMD's?


IP66 mate


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## Daz8n (Sep 22, 2009)

Thundercat said:


> red footwell and interior pull handle lights 8)


I take it these are only on when the side or headlights are on? Got some red smds to do interior pull handles but not sure on footwell ones... need to have a look in the car for ideas!!

Daz


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Yeah the red footwell lights come on with the sidelights, White footwell lights (plus door handles etc) come on with interior light circuit and dim down as normal 8)


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## bodyart (Sep 2, 2008)

Wow what a great and detailed post, thank you!
one question (perhaps silly so please forgive me but i have not worked with LED's before) - what the point of the resistors then? surely that will only increase the resistance on the line and could (theoretically?) produce fault codes due to high resistance couldnt it? - i can see the point of the resistors if you are replacing a standard bulb with an LED but whats the point if its an addition? you dont need to add anything when adding another normal bulb to a circuit - they just work

i am sure there is an electrical expert out there that will enlighten me 

thanks


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

Heres some useful led info http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm


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## Daz8n (Sep 22, 2009)

My red SMDs arrived today!! Just waiting for the white ones and a freeish weekend and I'm on it!!


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## Thundercat (Oct 24, 2009)

Daz8n said:


> My red SMDs arrived today!! Just waiting for the white ones and a freeish weekend and I'm on it!!


Nice one, sure you will have fun soldering the little buggers up. I know I did :lol:


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

bodyart said:


> Wow what a great and detailed post, thank you!
> one question (perhaps silly so please forgive me but i have not worked with LED's before) - what the point of the resistors then? surely that will only increase the resistance on the line and could (theoretically?) produce fault codes due to high resistance couldnt it? - i can see the point of the resistors if you are replacing a standard bulb with an LED but whats the point if its an addition? you dont need to add anything when adding another normal bulb to a circuit - they just work
> 
> i am sure there is an electrical expert out there that will enlighten me
> ...


The resistors are to step down the voltage as the smd's will blow imediately if you don't put the resistor in either the live or negative feeds.

Mark


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## harrismhome (Nov 14, 2009)

bodyart said:


> Wow what a great and detailed post, thank you!
> one question (perhaps silly so please forgive me but i have not worked with LED's before) - what the point of the resistors then? surely that will only increase the resistance on the line and could (theoretically?) produce fault codes due to high resistance couldnt it? - i can see the point of the resistors if you are replacing a standard bulb with an LED but whats the point if its an addition? you dont need to add anything when adding another normal bulb to a circuit - they just work
> 
> i am sure there is an electrical expert out there that will enlighten me
> ...










Basic but you can see whats needed, the resistors for the replacement led bulbs is fitted to fool the system that it has no failed bulbs and goes across the live and negative before the bulb this creates a load or draw that a normal bulb would. So from the picture above you would wire it as one of the smd's it's like a bulb that gives of no light really.


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## Gone (May 5, 2009)

Loads of useful info here but a quick couple or q's as I would like a second opinion that what I'm up to is sensible and I'm not being a spaz

I bought some ice white LEDs to replace the OEM alarm flashers, which came off well but they were sold in packs of 10 so I had 8 left over, which I decided to use for a puddle lighting system. Each LED came with a 1 kohm resistor and diode fitted to the legs, so I haven't added in any further resistors.

Basically what I've done is fitted 4 to each door card and taken wires (thin loudspeaker cable - OK?) from each LED and connected in parallel to a small junction box behind the door card. A feed cable comes out of the other side of the junction box into the footwells. So far this is as far as I've got, the next step I planned is to feed the cable behind the dash to drivers side where they both meet and then go up the A pillar to the interior light fitting - in line with another how to I saw.

First, do I need to modify the light circuit in any way as I saw some folks talking about running into grief placing too much demand on the light circuit? I don't reckon 8 LEDs is enough to get here but there is a fair bit of cable....

Second is it better to just tap into that loom behind the glove box, rather than go up the A pillar to the interior light? Would certainly be easier. Which of the wires is +ve?


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## Sh0x (Aug 29, 2010)

harrismhome said:


>


Hi mate, this wiring - do you have a full picture of its location, I have removed the cover as instructed but the wiring that is there is very tight into the cars interior (Im wondering how you accessed it) and if the wiring Im looking at in my car is even the same wiring youve cut?

Thanks


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## AngelArs (Jan 5, 2017)

harrismhome said:


> Carefully cut into the outer sheathing to reveal the cables just tap into these as shown of at first the light will not come on try swapping the wires as they do need to be the correct way around.
> a= Red with Black trace
> b= Brown with White trace


Anyone doing this please be careful as there are TWO different brown/white wires coming off of the central locking control module. One of the two wires _stays _brown/white (_from pin 2 of the module_) but the other brown/white plugs into a green/yellow connector and feeds the door lock/window assembly (_pin 10 of the module_). Only the wire from pin 2 should be used.


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