# Bonnet Lever Snapped & Coolant Level Low!



## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Right I have a two fold problem that needs some assistance.

Basically last couple of weeks my coolant levels have been dropping every week or so as per thread

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1446681&p=7760761#p7760761

Finally got to the bottom of it, have a slow leak somewhere so plan on getting that sorted.

Anyways started car this morn and the low coolant level light flashed so went to open the bonnet and the lever snapped off! Not just fallen off it's a clean snap so now I can't open the bonnet to top up coolant!

So first off how do I open the bonnet without the lever and second where do I get the part from its part number 8J2823533 from. It's not just the handle as I suspect some of the lever has broken off in the shaft or what ever it is called!

Help!!

2011 mk2 tt


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Here's the part No. on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-8J-RH ... 2075346476

If you can get pliers on the cable, you should be able to pull & open the bonnet
Hoggy.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Sorted part ordered so in theory I should be able to pull that bit that is stuck in then get to the cable to open the bonnet. Will report back tomorrow


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## TTurbodan (Mar 18, 2012)

My coolant warning has gone off twice this week during the very cold temperatures. I (successfully) open the bonnet to find it's absolutely fine and the warning on the DIS disappears after a minute, i think i just need to clean up the level sensor.
I think it's fairly common.


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## Howdy (Apr 2, 2015)

Yes, my bonnet lever broke yesterday. Tried opening it in cold weather and they seem to be made of ...well, chocolate  Imagine the trim to get access just levers off (I have a trim removal tool?). Mine 2011 model. I thought they modified it from bad experience on early cars but even mine it doesn't really look up to the job.


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Right turns out part of the lever that goes to the cable is snapped inside plus part of the end which has 3 grooves has also snapped inside. Therefore I can't remove the existing stuck lever and can't get to the cable.

How do I remove the side trim? And can I gain access to the mechanism if I do?


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Ok panic partly over. In the end couldn't take the trim off so called rac out who popped it off in 5 seconds! So I can now open the bonnet. Turns out the bracket needs changing too so anyone got a link to change it. In terms of the leak he pressure checked it and says it has a very tiny leak but can't tell where and advised to try that liquid to flush through.

Will report back my findings


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## scarface_uk (Jul 6, 2015)

Finally sorted the bonnet lever! What should have been a simple fix turned into a pain in the ass, probably due to my total lack of car DIY knowledge!

Anyways bought the handle using Hoggys link off ebay and the bracket from Audi garage.

Fitted the bracket and handle myself (eventually), hardest job was getting the side trim back on but managed to get it on in the end, if anyone else is doing this, the metal clips slide off so make sure they are on and straight before you apply force to clip them back in place. Also make sure you put the bracket on securely then the door trim then the handle.


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## mraleximer (Aug 16, 2018)

This is what my local service and neighbour did in Belgrade/Serbia. He put a screw inside, pinned it from the bottom and glued it. It cant broke now. Best regards.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I found that by placing my thumb on the top of the lever and rotating it evenly, like turning a faucet, it takes the pressure off the axle (which is where it typically breaks). It doesn't really take much rotation of the lever to release the hood (bonnet) catch. Yanking on it is just asking for trouble.

To be fair, it's a pretty weak design and I'm surprised they don't break off more than they do.

Here's the section from the workshop manual on the hood release -

View attachment Hood Release Lever.pdf

Just a heads up for anyone that needs to do this - _"The bracket and handle were changed on 1/08/2009. Previously part number 8J1-823-533-B was replaced with Handle 8J1-823-533-C and Bracket 8J1-823-633-C."_

Most of the hood release levers on eBay are typically the later "C" model even through they adversite "2007-2014". So if you replace only lever, you may find it doesn't fit into the bracket if you have a 2009 or earlier model. Note the second picture which shows the resulting fitment of a Rev "C" lever into a Rev "B" Bracket.

Be sure to get the part number of YOUR bracket and handle when you look for a replacement. The part number and revision is marked inside the handle. If you can't find a one-to-one replacement for the Lever, you might just want to replace both the Lever and Bracket with the newer Rev "C" design. Should it break again in the future the Rev "C" levers are easier to find.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=446849
.


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

I echo SJP's comments re operating the lever.
Also I think part of the problem is that at first sight the lever looks very substantial, suggesting a good strong tug, and the weakest part (which is where they break) not being visible or apparent.
By comparison my 1990 mk 2 Golf's bonnet release lever looks and feels flimsy. This has not broken once in my ownership of the car, since August 1992, current mileage 161,000.
They don't build 'em like they used to!


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

SJP could I please ask if you could look at the fix in ' mraleximer' post and advise if its possible to carry out this mod to strengthen the pivot thing and prevent a future break. :?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ mraleximer - Can you comment on whether or not this is a TT Mk2 bonnet lever axle and what adhesive was used? Since this particular part is PA6-GF50 (glass filled nylon) I know it can be a challenge to bond properly. I wasn't aware the axle could be removed from the handle as it seems to be molded as a single piece.

I'm guessing here, but I would suspect the repair shown above is something like this -

A.) Complete axle
B.) Point of separation, drill out the center and add a small side horizontal hole in the lower half for a lock pin
C.) Screw in a piece of all-thread slightly larger than the horizontal hole. Apply adhesive between the upper and lower half and secure the two halves together. Re-drill the lock pin hole so it goes into the vertical thread. Insert a horizontal pin to prevent rotation in the long axis. Job done!

Personally, if I have this problem I'll just replace it with a Rev "C" Bracket and Lever since the odds are good it's likely to break again in the future, and Rev "C" Levers are pretty common.
.


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## snips86x (Apr 13, 2017)

This seems to be a common issue. Before I bought my Mk2, they mentioned that it snapped while doing a service lol


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ mraleximer - Can you comment on whether or not this is a TT Mk2 bonnet lever axle and what adhesive was used? I wasn't aware the axle could be removed from the handle as it seems to be molded as a single piece.


SJP, is there an example of the actual broken lever to see the weak spot. I've attached a pic of the modified bracket with extra cut out for modified lever. I think the lever looks too complex to be a single moulding.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ TTsdsgomg - See my edited post. I suspect this is how the repair was done. The pin you can see would do nothing to prevent the part from breaking unless there's another threaded pin inside. In which case, the small pin simply prevents the lower half from moving when the lever is rotated. Basically, it's a "belt-and-braces" approach since bonding GFN is not likely to be very successful in this situation due to the leverage applied to this point. This is why I suspect there's a larger, center all-thread inside that's not visible in the photo.

Actually something very similar to this was proposed for those who wanted to swap out the shift knob on the S-Tronic. The OEM shift release button sits on the side. The replacement knob has the button in front. In order to accommodate the 90°rotation of the plastic release rod, some bright spark cut it off and screwed it back together. This was done since it's easy to ebmrittle plastic if you over heat it and twist it. Otherwise if you break the release rod, you're seriously screwed since it's not a replaceable part in the shifter mechanism! $$$$$!!

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1822322


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ TTsdsgomg - See my edited post. I suspect this is how the repair was done. The pin you can see would do nothing to prevent the part from breaking unless there's another threaded pin inside. In which case, the small pin simply prevents the lower half from moving when the lever is rotated. Basically, it's a "belt-and-braces" approach since bonding GFN is not likely to be very successful in this situation due to the leverage applied to this point. This is why I suspect there's a larger, center all-thread inside that's not visible in the photo.


I understand what your saying and agree, maybe someone out there has some pics of the actual broken bits. [smiley=gossip.gif]


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ TTsdsgomg - As requested, two broken levers; Rev "B" and "C". You'll notice they both broke in the same place. Our colleague in Belgrade/Serbia may be onto something!

Source -
http://www.northloop.co.uk/forum/showth ... et-release
.


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ TTsdsgomg - As requested, two broken levers; Rev "B" and "C". You'll notice they both broke in the same place. Our colleague in Belgrade/Serbia may be onto something!
> 
> Source -
> http://www.northloop.co.uk/forum/showth ... et-release
> .


Good find Swiss, also confirms your suspicions that the splined shaft is sheering/snapping off at the base, so the center threaded rod solution is needed. Which also means we can't add additional strength until it breaks :evil:

** in fact a broken but properly modified one could be more valuable than a new one


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I would bet they're just over torquing it and snapping it off by pulling too hard and well past the actual point of release. Next time you open your hood, pay attention to just how little you really have to rotate the lever to "pop" the hood.
.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I would bet they're just over torquing it and snapping it off by pulling too hard and well past the actual point of release. Next time you open your hood, pay attention to just how little you really have to rotate the lever to "pop" the hood.
> .


They were trying to open the hood without opening the driver's door. The lever is locked in place when the driver's door is close. That's how my brother destroyed one.


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## peteholloway (Aug 15, 2018)

I've just replaced the lever mechanism with the C version as my lever that broke was a B type and I'll be picking up the C lever tomorrow.

It concerns me how much force is required to release the bonnet lever by pulling on the cable... I thought I could pull it with bare hands, but a pliers was needed. Is this normal. Don't want to break the new lever when I put it in tomorrow...


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