# question on the window microchip.



## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

right iv took it out today as its fooked.
do i replace it with a new one or can i fix it any other way.
tryed today to fix it but not been successful.

is there a cheap replacement?


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## MrL (Jul 30, 2005)

What window microchip ? :?

Mr L


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## acmurray (Jun 28, 2007)

MrL said:


> What window microchip ? :?
> 
> Mr L


What he said. :?


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> right iv took it out today as its fooked.
> do i replace it with a new one or can i fix it any other way.
> tryed today to fix it but not been successful.
> 
> is there a cheap replacement?


Does this help:
http://www.********.co.uk/ttforumbbs/viewtopic.php?t=56261 ?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.


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## MrL (Jul 30, 2005)

acmurray said:


> MrL said:
> 
> 
> > What window microchip ? :?
> ...


Oh, micro*switch*, I know what he's on about now. :lol: 
Cheers Vik & John-H.

Mr L


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

sorry im realy bad at spelling.
how much does wak fix them for and do i have to send it to him or go to where hes at?

thanks.


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

John-H said:


> He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.


I bought a switch from ELFA (https://www1.elfa.se). Manufacturer is Saia-Burgess and it's identical to the original one. All you have to do is to carefully take out the top part (pic) of the microswitch and install it on the old switch. 5 minutes job!



















35-831-43 Mikroswitch IP67, Saia-Burgess V4NCST7 Datasheet


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

carnt find it on the site make can you help?
looks perfict aswell.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Vik's said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > He means microswitch! That thread you posted is the best information I've got. Wak fixes them by re-using the switch and adding a lever off a new switch but I couldn't find a direct replacement that fitted because the mounting holes are non standard. You could buy the one I suggested to Wak and fabricate a bracket perhaps if the old switch is useless.
> ...


Wow! Vic - Excellent you found it  . Brilliant. I'll let Wak know. I couldn't find it when I was looking and the solution of using the lever to ride over the rough worn bits got round most failures, where the wear stopped the actuator being pushed - so the impetus went cold.

I still think the lever acting as a sled is an improvement to the original design but it's great to have a replacement switch for when the switch has actually failed [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

*YES TT*, Unfortunatly they have changed design of the site and direct link is not working anymore... Just follow the link https://www1.elfa.se and punch in the part no. 35-831-43 in the search window.



John-H said:


> Wow! Vic - Excellent you found it  . Brilliant. I'll let Wak know. I couldn't find it when I was looking and the solution of using the lever to ride over the rough worn bits got round most failures, where the wear stopped the actuator being pushed - so the impetus went cold.
> 
> I still think the lever acting as a sled is an improvement to the original design but it's great to have a replacement switch for when the switch has actually failed [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


 :wink:

I do agree that the lever is an improvement over original design though!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Can you just clarify something? The photo you posted shows four distinct square holed tabs. The picture in the catalogue doesn't seem to show the tabs in the one with the wires and the one with the solder tags seems to have a split line through where the tabs should be. The data sheet shows two side by side - one with tabs and one without.

Is the 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 people should order, with tabs, and not shown correctly in the catalogue pictures?


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

John-H said:


> Can you just clarify something? The photo you posted shows four distinct square holed tabs. The picture in the catalogue doesn't seem to show the tabs in the one with the wires and the one with the solder tags seems to have a split line through where the tabs should be. The data sheet shows two side by side - one with tabs and one without.
> 
> Is the 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 people should order, with tabs, and not shown correctly in the catalogue pictures?


You've got me thinking twice here... as I've ordered the above number... But I have a spare one, so I tok a photo of it and guess what? Part no. on the switch is 35-831-50!:










and according to the site 35-831-50 is the replacement for the 35-831-43 and vice versa (so they should be equal in tabs design etc.).










And they both share the catalogue picture (seems to be outdated) and the datasheet.

As I recall from the old site design it was the same part in the catalogue but in two different versions, - one with solder terminals and one with the embedded cables (one that I have).

So I guess it is 35-831-43 : V4NCST7 (solder terminals) and 35-831-50 V4NCSK2-0,5M (embedded cables, 50cm).

I am sorry, that because of some unfortunate wording, I may have inadvertently confused you


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Thanks for that - not your fault the catogue's confusing :wink:

I went to the Cia Burgess website and found the following information. This page shows the variants: http://www.saia-switch.com/mediando/ind ... roduct=101

















The best one to get may be one with a lever attached but here are the variants:

V4NCT7 solder plunger 250 VAC 5 A - 
V4NCS cable 500 mm plunger 250 VAC 5 A - 
*V4NCT7A1 solder plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A - *
*V4NCSA1 cable 500 mm plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -* 
V4NCT7AR solder roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A - 
V4NCSAR cable 500 mm roller lever 16.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -

I've not checked out the UK distributors but details of distributors are on the Burgess website: http://www.johnsonelectric.com/Sales-Lo ... no_cache=1

I think I'd still feel happier changing the entire switch but the lower part of the original appears to be custom made with non standard mounting hole pegs:










Here's a Cherry switch next to the original - you can see the holes are a different spacing so you can't simply mount it on screws through the holes. Filing out the holes into slots might work though.










Still, good to be able to replace the seal and plunger top piece  .


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

how the hell do you buy the thing??????
the web sites crap!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Which website are you looking at?


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

John-H said:


> ...
> Still, good to be able to replace the seal and plunger top piece  .


Yepp )



John-H said:


> Which website are you looking at?


I think he means ELFA... The new design is java-based and not as good to use...


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

yep lol.

is there a better web site????


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> yep lol.
> 
> is there a better web site????


You could try to contact Johnson Electric (UK) 
http://www.johnsonelectric.com/Worl...]=GB&tx_dysworldwidelocations_pi1[showUid]=36


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

i just need to order that switch lol how hard is it!!!!!!! :x     :evil: :evil:


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

anyone orderd this yet?


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> anyone orderd this yet?


I did


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

how the hell did you do that lol?????


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

any news on this yet???
i still carnt order from this site i get to stage 2 and it wont go no further. :?


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

bump!


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> any news on this yet???
> i still carnt order from this site i get to stage 2 and it wont go no further. :?


Do you mean "Check out (step 2 of 4) â€" Payment selection"? 
Should not be a problem...


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

do i have to verify my credit card?
if so mine ent on the list.


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> do i have to verify my credit card?
> if so mine ent on the list.












It is necessary to fill the _CVC_ column to verify your credit card.
It's just an additional security measure. The CVC is usually located on the back of credit cards.

You can read more about it here on wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_Security_Code


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

yep filled that out mate but theres no next step on mine like the one in the pic?


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

stupid question but whats the second box for next to the card holders's name?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Just a guess but could it be first name last name? Odd though , as where would you put a middle initial?


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

right iv managed to to that part as the screen cut off the bottom of the page. anyway iv come to the end and is now saying verify my visa but it wont let me do that now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i give up!


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> right iv managed to to that part as the screen cut off the bottom of the page. anyway iv come to the end and is now saying verify my visa but it wont let me do that now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> i give up!


Very strange... 
I can't understand why did they change the design of the site to java-based platform...

*John-H*, Is it possible to order the switch directly from saia-burgess? What do you think?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Vik's said:


> YES TT said:
> 
> 
> > right iv managed to to that part as the screen cut off the bottom of the page. anyway iv come to the end and is now saying verify my visa but it wont let me do that now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> ...


I'd first try ringing up the distributer and ordering over the phone if possible. Burgess may send you a sample but I'd expect they are used to selling in bulk. Worth a try!


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

does anyone know the part number of the switch from audi?
will pop up there the weekend and get one.

thanks for all the help anyway peeps :wink:


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

YES TT said:


> does anyone know the part number of the switch from audi?
> will pop up there the weekend and get one.
> 
> thanks for all the help anyway peeps :wink:


Switch and the door lock is one piece according to Audi... and costs â‚¬106...

Part number is: 8N1 837 015 B (door lock with door contact switch, left, lhd) and 8N1 837 016 B (right, lhd)


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

oh right dident want to take the hole lock out :? . i suppose i could just take off the old one and put the new one inplace of it?


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## sabih786 (Mar 9, 2008)

Im in the US, looking for the switch, but the shipping was 45 euros, close to 100$


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

iv finaly orderd it.
a friend done it on there c card as it wouldent except mine.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Well done! 10/10 for persistence :wink:


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

lol.
it came today so will fit it the weekend.
will the old one have done any damage to the lock?
iv seen pics on here of the lock after the old switch was took out and the roller looks damaged?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

YES TT said:


> lol.
> it came today so will fit it the weekend.
> will the old one have done any damage to the lock?
> iv seen pics on here of the lock after the old switch was took out and the roller looks damaged?


That's why it's a good idea to get one with a lever - it acts as a ski and stops the chewed up plastic coating over the cam damaging the new switch.


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

arr right.
will see how it goes.
thanks.


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

fitted it yesterday and its all fine at last!!

well happy now lol.


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

fitted it yesterday and its all fine at last!!

well happy now lol.


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## AnTTo (Oct 9, 2009)

BIG THANK YOU for this thread and VIK`s! Came to same problem and made me very sad. Checked my door lock and that microswitch - indeed faulty it was. Found that not far from my work on company sells electronics and same switches (through Elfa). So bought the same switch, took it apart and fitted new piece to old switch. And voilaaaa, working great!!

Also was opportunity to order a lever for that switch. I ordered but havent got it yet. But so far works fine without that lever. If needed, I can any time go and buy that. I think at first, I will let it be like that.

Once more, Thank You and this forum! Helped me a lot so far.


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

You're very welcome, AnTTo! Glad to hear that you have solved the microswitch-problem!

I ordered a switchlever too but never got it installed and the switch have been working for almost two years by now without any problem.

Btw, the whole TT Forum is so helpful, I just can't praise it enough!


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Glad you've all got it sorted and you YES TT - I didn't see your reply originally for some reason. I might have to fix this on my S3 soon as it's been playing up.


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## ap123ap (Aug 20, 2008)

are any of these going to suitable as a replacement?









http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-off-3A-14mm-Lev ... 5635f5b812









http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT









http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

No - neither of them are sealed and will fail once water gets inside. Also the mounting hole spacing is an issue.


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## YES TT (Jul 4, 2007)

lol the car went 3 weeks ago now...worst car iv ever owned, so many problems.

got myself a M3 now.


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## shurcomb (Jan 6, 2007)

Are there any detailed instructions on how to replace ths switch?

I have a second hand door lock mech which doesn't work properly when fitted to my TT, so am looking to extract the switch and use it in my existing door lock mech. So a guide or some detail on how to access the faulty switch would be useful.

Ta!


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## AnTTo (Oct 9, 2009)

Look for DIY. Here are quite a few topics about it. Basically You just need to open the door card (1 screw under the door handle capsle) and remove it from door. When I changed mine then I didnt disconnect cables. You need to get to the lock mechanism. It is held on the door with 2 screws.

Last time when I opened the door card and changed the micro switch then I couldnt get those screws open (they were so frosen). Got only lower one open so the lock did move a little away from door. That was enough because I reached to the very lower part where that micro switch locates. For better movement I pulled out the cable that goes into the lock. Then You can see the metallic clamp. Pull it out and then You can free micro switch.

To make the switch work You have to change the top part of the micro switch. There are 4 little pins that hold the part with button in place. Free 2 of them from one side and it already should come apart. Do same for other and replace them.

Put everything back together and you have a working micro switch and window drop


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## shurcomb (Jan 6, 2007)

OK, thanks for the info.

I will need to have another good look at the area then, as I have had the door lock mech off including cable etc.. but didn't really see a microswitch part. Although at the time i wasn't looking for the microswitch I was swapping out the whole mechanism so didn't pay too much attention to it :roll:

My drivers door has all the symptoms of failing switch so would be nice to get it sorted.

Ta.


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## scooterist (Sep 3, 2008)

Wohoo! 
Just adding another successful installation story to this thread. Yesterday I purchased the 35-831-50 switch from our local ELFA store in Helsinki and followed Viks procedure and now the window works again, and above all the warning beep if the lights are left on when removing the key with door open. This is such a great forum!

As only the top of the switch is needed both versions of the switch (35-831-50 and 35-831-43) will do.
/Scooterist


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## Goldfiinger (Sep 6, 2010)

Anyone know where I can pick up one of these (35-831-50 or 35-831-43) in the UK or order from the net?


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## mitlom (Dec 13, 2010)

Hi Goldfiinger,

I just ordered two of the microswitches from a firm near Birmingham, the microswitches were a couple of quid each and next day delivery was 6 quid, so both locks repaired for under a tenner....bargain 

http://www.camiscomponents.com/

Hope this helps,

Tim



Goldfiinger said:


> Anyone know where I can pick up one of these (35-831-50 or 35-831-43) in the UK or order from the net?


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## Goldfiinger (Sep 6, 2010)

Thanks Tim, have you received and fitted them yet?


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## M1YK P (Jan 23, 2008)

mitlom said:


> Hi Goldfiinger,
> 
> I just ordered two of the microswitches from a firm near Birmingham, the microswitches were a couple of quid each and next day delivery was 6 quid, so both locks repaired for under a tenner....bargain
> 
> ...


Hiya do u have part numbers for switches - Also did u just take off top section of old switch and replace with new one. Thanks


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## bluetoaster (Mar 4, 2011)

John-H said:


> Vik's said:
> 
> 
> > John-H said:
> ...


*Hi,
Is there anywhere in the UK that sell 2 of these, and 2 metal Levers?
have you got Part Numbers aswell?*


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## bluetoaster (Mar 4, 2011)

John-H said:


> Vik's said:
> 
> 
> > John-H said:
> ...


Hi,
Is there anywhere in the UK that sell 2 of these, and 2 metal Levers?
have you got Part Numbers aswell?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

A search on the part number (V4NCST7) suggests these:

http://www.access-electrical.co.uk/inde ... iak=-28387

http://www.penninecomponents.co.uk/page.asp?id=manuf2

You may want the the variant with cable and lever (see earlier post) such as V4NCSA1

I just found the Russian Audi TT club :lol: - those pictures look familiar!

http://audi-tt.ru/forum/phpBB2/viewtopi ... 37c9198639


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## bluetoaster (Mar 4, 2011)

John-H said:


> A search on the part number (V4NCST7) suggests these:
> 
> http://www.access-electrical.co.uk/inde ... iak=-28387
> 
> ...


Hi John,

Thanks for the reply..

Would you believe it...The door window dropped this morning when I opened the door, so it must be working again....

Strange though! My key remote has been Temperamental....sometimes it locks and unlocks the car, I thought it was the battery....So I will be changing it today.....I unlocked the car from the drivers side
then I went round to the passenger side and hey the window dropped when I opened the door and went back up when I shut it....strange or is it a coincedence?

I'll see how long it lasts......

LEE


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## davegill79 (Oct 23, 2008)

Emailed Access Electrical as the V4NCT7 switch was out of stock. They replied that this has been discontinued and replaced with V4NST7-UL. Looks identical, so ordered a couple (spare for when the next one goes!)

I did find the V4NCT7 switch from an overseas supplier, but with postage it was near to £30. The alternative from Access Electrical were priced @ £1.36 each + £6.50 carriage.

Hope to get round to the job this weekend, but have ABS and parking sensors to sort first!


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## Flash (Apr 14, 2011)

Thank you Gentlemen of the TT Forum,I asked a question about the door microswitch and what a comprehensive reply.A great source of info.although some of the English was a little difficult to understand!! Not from our overseas guests I hasten to add.
I will now try to order the relevant switches. Thanks again


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## macspreader (Feb 11, 2011)

davegill79 said:


> Emailed Access Electrical as the V4NCT7 switch was out of stock. They replied that this has been discontinued and replaced with V4NST7-UL. Looks identical, so ordered a couple (spare for when the next one goes!)
> 
> I did find the V4NCT7 switch from an overseas supplier, but with postage it was near to £30. The alternative from Access Electrical were priced @ £1.36 each + £6.50 carriage.
> 
> Hope to get round to the job this weekend, but have ABS and parking sensors to sort first!


Bump...

Any recent experience of this. Think I need a new one for my roadster :-(


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## cbay (Jun 13, 2011)

http://www.camiscomponents.com/contact_us.php

Anyone got the code for the microswitch from this company?


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## pgee (Jul 28, 2011)

Hi, just ordered the part at Distrelec in the Netherlands. Have it tomorow and hope to place it this weekend.

Thanks a lot for the tips!!!!

Peter

Installed it and works fine!! And Flash thanks for the help.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

davegill79 said:


> Emailed Access Electrical as the V4NCT7 switch was out of stock. They replied that this has been discontinued and replaced with V4NST7-UL. Looks identical, so ordered a couple (spare for when the next one goes!)
> 
> I did find the V4NCT7 switch from an overseas supplier, but with postage it was near to £30. The alternative from Access Electrical were priced @ £1.36 each + £6.50 carriage.
> 
> Hope to get round to the job this weekend, but have ABS and parking sensors to sort first!


Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this may be of interest.

The part above ( V4NST7-UL ) will NOT work :x :x :x

I got 6 of them from access electrical (Damien was very kind to send to Athens, Greece) but they are useless. As you see in the picture the top and bottom part is fixed and not with "lugs" so it cannot be used.

Crap, have to order again.










This is the correct part that has the "lugs". There are quite a few part numbers for this...


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## RikA (Jan 15, 2012)

I'm glad this thread was ressurected, as I've got this problem too. After struggling to find a UK distributor with any stock, I've had a dig around to find somewhere that won't charge too much for delivery from somewhere in Europe.

Anyway, after much hunting, I've just ordered a replacement switch from ELV:
http://www.elv.de/Saia-Mikroschalter-V4 ... ail2_31665
15 Euros delivered for two (just in case the other side goes, or my repair job goes so wrong I damage the switch!).


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## Garth (Feb 7, 2012)

Do what I did, fix the existing switches. Cost me nothing and they should last longer than new ones...


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

RikA said:


> I'm glad this thread was ressurected, as I've got this problem too. After struggling to find a UK distributor with any stock, I've had a dig around to find somewhere that won't charge too much for delivery from somewhere in Europe.
> 
> Anyway, after much hunting, I've just ordered a replacement switch from ELV:
> http://www.elv.de/Saia-Mikroschalter-V4 ... ail2_31665
> 15 Euros delivered for two (just in case the other side goes, or my repair job goes so wrong I damage the switch!).


9.95 EUR postage to the UK, 24.95 for Greece :x

However it appears they have the correct part in stock...


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Will this microswitch just be a straight swap for the faulty unit or just replace the top section , I have one playing up but looking at this it will pay to get a couple on order .

Fantastic find if the answer is yes to my question . What a find . Well Done .

Thanks .


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Can anyone definately confirm that this microswitch is ok as a replacement .

http://www.elv.de/Saia-Mikroschalter-V4 ... ail2_31665

Many Thanks .


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

John Stratton said:


> Can anyone definately confirm that this microswitch is ok as a replacement .
> 
> http://www.elv.de/Saia-Mikroschalter-V4 ... ail2_31665
> 
> Many Thanks .


This is it.

/Michael


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks Michael .

Parts ordered today .

Will advise post once fitted and hopefully working .

John


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## tom2018 (Mar 26, 2011)

Does this fit all mk 1 tts as i have. 2006 qs and need a drivers side door switch?

Thanks
Tom


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Tom ,

I beleive they are the same but cannot be 100% sure .

Looking at the threads on this issue I have not seen any year of manufacture dates mentioned .

John


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Just got back from the car and I believe, I have been successful 8)

Removed everything and worked on the lock on girlfriends white granite kitchen top :twisted:

My problem was different so I took another approach. In my case, although my TT is a 2001 model, around the microswitch was tons of grime. The microswitch itself wasn't in a bad condition, meaning the plastic "button" which presses the actual switch inside was in pristine condition and not at all worn. The rubber around it was a bit eaten up but nothing too bad.

Ended up changing only the plastic button from the new part, just in case. The button is easy to remove from a new part, just open the microswitch and push the button from the housing and it will come off. The rubber around it unfortunately can't be removed. IMO, this is better than gluing the top from the V4NST7-UL part, in case I need to repair again.

Put everything back together in 15 minutes (removing them took me more than 3 hours) and checked the door at least 30 times. So far it works (light turns on and windows drops).

*****I have to publicly thank Flash for his help. Without him, it wouldn't have been possible (at least for me). Flash, you're a top bloke and I really appreciate it.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Possible UK supplier for V4NCST7 sealed pip with solder terminals:

http://www.access-electrical.co.uk/inde ... iak=-28387

Variants:

V4NCT7A1 solder plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A - 
V4NCSA1 cable 500 mm plain lever 18.0 mm 250 VAC 5 A -


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

John-H said:


> Possible UK supplier for V4NCST7 sealed pip with solder terminals:
> 
> http://www.access-electrical.co.uk/inde ... iak=-28387
> 
> ...


Had a look there myself earlier to stock up just in case I need one in the future. 
They're out of stock of V4NCST7 and V4NCT7A1 and don't do V4NCSA1 - bummer!

Brian


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

Damian at access electrical was very helpful - last time I spoke they had the V4NCT7 which will do the trick I think. Of course I managed to order the wrong part myself :roll:

Did both doors. Passenger side has been 100% fine but driverside worked for about a week and now the window won't drop. Although I have more parts I'm too bored to do the whole thing again :lol:


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## alexisgt (Apr 10, 2009)

Unfortunately i have the same problem with the micro-switch.

Very helpful topic!

Which part number needs less modifications?

35-831-43 (V4NCST7) or 35-831-50 (V4NCSK2)..?


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## alexisgt (Apr 10, 2009)

Any help guys..?


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## Vik's (Sep 13, 2007)

John-H said:


> ...
> I just found the Russian Audi TT club :lol: - those pictures look familiar!
> 
> http://audi-tt.ru/forum/phpBB2/viewtopi ... 37c9198639


Not that surprising since I have multiple accounts on international TT forums around the world =)
I have referred to TTforum.co.uk in my posts there.



alexisgt said:


> Unfortunately i have the same problem with the micro-switch.
> 
> Very helpful topic!
> 
> ...


Since you just need the top part of those switches - both versions will do the trick! As described above in this thread, you should just undo the four pins that hold the top part and replace with the new top.


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## Shootist (Mar 10, 2013)

I just removed the top of my old microswitch and fabricated a new plunger using my dremel and a 3mm shelf pin. I dremeled the wider base so it would not pop through the hole and then filed the top till it fitted perfectly.

A pack of 12 x 3mm shelf pins costs around £2 on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-HAFELE...ial_Cabinets_Cupboards_MJ&hash=item2566fda48e

Just cut off completely on one side of the wide piece, file two small flats to the wide piece so it move freely in the casing but will not come out the top and reassemble the switch then slow dremel the top piece off until it works perfectly. Took me about 10 mins with a dremel to do mine.

Richard


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## Tritium (Apr 25, 2011)

Nice lateral thinking Richard!

Brian


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## Shootist (Mar 10, 2013)

Tritium said:


> Nice lateral thinking Richard!
> 
> Brian


Well, I had the week before bought a cd/dvd cabinet and did not use all the shelves. So when I was sat looking at the microswitch I thought what can I make a plunger out of and spotted the spare shelf pins I had left over. So thats when I decided to try my own repair and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

I have also bought some small microswitches from maplins which if all had failed I would have used instead and they are a pretty close match in size to the original.


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## Garwood225 (Apr 20, 2014)

Woukd this work? Ebay item number 281593772875


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## Back 2 TT (Nov 12, 2015)

I just ordered 3 of these £2-74 + £2-99pp: Ebay number 201384177646 V4NST7Y1UL Microswitch with lever SPDT 5A/250VAC ON-ON 1-position

Lets hope they do the job :roll:


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## Back 2 TT (Nov 12, 2015)

Anyway, what I meant to say is *thanks* for all the info from those who trod the path in the name of fixing the cars


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Let us know if it fits and how you get on


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

I too have the door lock syndrome but may have a solution......

Did a google search and found someone else with same problem and a solution
look for SaabDudes post half way down page 2
http://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1- ... 857/page2/

knowledge base has handy dimensions of switch courtesy of WAK
viewtopic.php?t=56261

Went on eBay and found this and dimensions seemed to match
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391237371973? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Got one on order so will let you know how I get on, fingers crossed
What do people think? 
Or is there a reason this doesn't work and I haven't found those posts lol


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

Jez xbx said:


> I too have the door lock syndrome but may have a solution......
> ...
> Or is there a reason this doesn't work and I haven't found those posts lol


Depends how badly damaged the cam that the switch works on is.
Mine was quite bad and I don't think a replacement switch would have lasted long.

But £8 is still a lot less than the £100 for a new lock unit, so worth a try!

Remember left & right switches are different.

That same seller has the right side switch too:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Right-Door-Lo ... 419b9520f3


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I've not seen the data sheet but that eBay switch does look to be the correct switch in that it has the white moulded adaptation that mates with the holes in the lock body. These holes are differently spaced to the industry standard V4 microswitch mounting holes which has been the main problem finding a replacement.

As regards damage to the cam which has a plastic layer that gets torn and worn - as the main part of the switch is standard it's possible to attach the lever from a standard V4 switch. The lever is only very thin stainless steel and can give protection to the switch button seal and ride over any irregularities.


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

Cheers David,
I've a nasty feeling that my cam may be totalled too!
Given that the switches seemed so hard to track down I thought yay!
But i think you might be right about the longevity!
Was going to try to fill / file the cam smooth but not sure of the logistics of that!
hey ho, if the switch does fit that will be one little frustrating supply issue solved!
Jez

Edit, cheers John, fingers crossed on the size, when I saw it I was like wow!
Ive read a lot of posts detailing the difference between the industry standard and the audi one so i was like surely not???
Just saying to David about the cam being shot on mine too
Might try to fashion my own protective layer from some tin foil / yogurt pot lid and have an experiment!


I'll post up something when it arrives and if it fits


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

That switch with a std V4 lever is worth a try.

I'd got a std V4 switch & lever to try, but I was going to be a bit of a faf to get it mounted, so I gave up and took the easy (but expensive) route of a new lock.

I've still got the old lock, so may get a pair of these switches now they are available as a backup. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Back 2 TT (Nov 12, 2015)

Just to keep people updated I haven't fitted it yet due to having an open drive way and it peeing down every time I intend to change it :lol:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Driveways and garages with enough space to open doors are important considerations :wink:


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

i'd forgotten about posting in this post (apologies!)
I did find that switch fitted and wrote an instructable here....

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1159442

so far so good, still working fine!
Can't remember if I wrote in my account but I filed the torn plastic of the cam smooth (ish)


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## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

Jez xbx said:


> i'd forgotten about posting in this post (apologies!)
> I did find that switch fitted and wrote an instructable here....
> 
> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1159442
> ...


These are good for making waterproof connections instead of the crimps supplied (different sizes available)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-VIRGIN-BT- ... 1909224345


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