# mk1 project thread build with (videos)



## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Hi as you may have seen in previous post I was looking for a mk1 to go with my mk2, and today was the day I got it after looking and viewing some really bad examples. This is no where near perfect but a project l. I will film the progress and put it up on my YouTube channel as well as updating the progress on here in this thread and probably asking many questions on how to fix bits that I'm at a lost with

so here is my mk2 








and here is my new to me mk1

























































obviously it had to be red


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## SamDorey (Dec 31, 2016)

Looks like a beaut Chris! When are you planning on the Mk3 TT in red? 
Sam


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

SamDorey said:


> Looks like a beaut Chris! When are you planning on the Mk3 TT in red?
> Sam


😂🤣😂 you know it


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Shiny


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## Villarreal (Nov 1, 2021)

This looks awesome. Good work!


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

so there is a few things to sort out I will do a video of this in more detail. But what i can see straight away it needs for a mot is new rear tyres as there is cord hanging out the inner edge i suspect this is from it being lowered without adjustable rear tie bars and the headlight washers are not working and not levelling. im pretty sure i will find alot more on this cars journey


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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

Headlight washers are no longer an MOT check on our MK1's Nice looking TT !


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Spliffy said:


> Headlight washers are no longer an MOT check on our MK1's Nice looking TT !


really?thats good whys that because of the age of them? but would be nice to get them working


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I wish you could switch them off.. they eat through screenwash... and if you are doubling up your screen wash for meth-injection, it gets expensive.

BTW you obviously know the headlight washers only work if the lights are on don't you? It's quite easy to check, passenger wheel arch and the head light washers is a bigger pump and a junction inside the bumper passenger side. 

The washer is totally unrelated to the self-leveling, there's a sensor on the rear control arm, and in the passenger wheel arch. The rear sensor is a common failure, it has a little arm itself which seizes and snaps the plastic sensor lever.. but you can at least test if the sensors even do anything. Neither my S3 or TT had proper working motorised HID headlights, Both had been replaced with manual adjusters.


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## mk1chopper (Jan 14, 2021)

There's a sensor front and rear for the xenons a scan with vcds will normally identify a faulty sensor. Good luck with your project


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

Headlight washers are now only MOT-tested on vehicles younger than 2009 , so 8Ns don’t need to have them working.
I was in the same boat after buying mine though , the headlight washers didn’t work at all even though the fuse was intact.
The fault turned out to be a naffed headlight washer pump which had also leaked, allowing washer fluid to travel up the pump wiring by capillary action and corrode it.
Two lengths of electrical cable , a new plug and a replacement pump got my washers working again.
I’ve read that the aftermarket washer pumps aren’t meant to be very good so bought a used Genuine VDO unit and fitted that , no problems so far 18 months on.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> I wish you could switch them off.. they eat through screenwash... and if you are doubling up your screen wash for meth-injection, it gets expensive.
> 
> BTW you obviously know the headlight washers only work if the lights are on don't you? It's quite easy to check, passenger wheel arch and the head light washers is a bigger pump and a junction inside the bumper passenger side.
> 
> The washer is totally unrelated to the self-leveling, there's a sensor on the rear control arm, and in the passenger wheel arch. The rear sensor is a common failure, it has a little arm itself which seizes and snaps the plastic sensor lever.. but you can at least test if the sensors even do anything. Neither my S3 or TT had proper working motorised HID headlights, Both had been replaced with manual adjusters.


Yes I put the headlights on to test them will try and have a proper good look at this on the weekend


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

I hope you can help I was looking at the headlights problem of headlights not adjusted code 01539.
Any one got any ideas? Does this look right


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

so here is the mk1 project i don't think its too bad let me know what you think.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I think all the back seats look a bit twisted. 

The whole video editing business is so time consuming for me, but I appreciate its people's hobbies..


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> I think all the back seats look a bit twisted.
> 
> The whole video editing business is so time consuming for me, but I appreciate its people's hobbies..


I think I need to take them out check everything and put them back in hopefully they are ok or its rear seat delete


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

so this car is left outside unfortunately so I want to cover it up when I'm not working on it .What is the best cover to use? Like best fit and quality? as i need to get one asap


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will hopefully sorting some problems out on the TT. We will be tackling the loose under body trims, the headlight level sensor linkage and adaption, the window micro switch so the window drops when you open the door, the rear seats that wouldn't go back but we will look into this a bit more as we get other jobs out of the way and I found another problem with the car which we try and fix.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be replacing the oil pick up pipe (oil strainer)along with changing the oil and filter, this is something I wanted to do before I start driving this car as these can get blocked and result in starving the top end of oil. And I also manged to get hold of a coolant cover for the engine bay as the car didn't come with one. 1x oil sump plug 19mm spanner or socket needed - torque too 30nm 20x sump bolts 10mm socket or 5mm hex needed - torque too 15nm 2x turbo oil return bolts 5mm hex needed - torque too 15nm 3x sump to gearbox bolts 16mm spanner or socket needed - -torque too 45nm parts needed oil pick up pipe sealant sump plug oil filter oil link to where i got my pick up pipe kit https://cloude9customs.com/product/genuine-vag-1-8t-oil-pickup-kit/ oil service kit https://cloude9customs.com/product/vag-1-8t-service-kit/


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

In this episode we will be sorting out some fault codes that came with the car like engine management and the other modules and we find another problem but we are on our way to getting this TT on the road 😎stay tuned


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Parts are building up nicely 😁


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## grahamtt225bam (Aug 18, 2021)

Lol these TT mods are adictive


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

grahamtt225bam said:


> Lol these TT mods are adictive


Tell me about it another one turned up today


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

There's a coincidence- just found your channel today...


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be going through the parts we have got to go on the mk1 TT so far stay tuned to see them get fitted on the mk1 project.


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

I assume it's an S-Line going by the year, Misano Red colour, grey lights with 5 bar grille and grey leather inside?


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Spacemonkey said:


> I assume it's an S-Line going by the year, Misano Red colour, grey lights with 5 bar grille and grey leather inside?


Not sure if its a s line no badges anywhere


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

S-Line were Nov 2001 to Mar 2002 weren't they? Just a face-lift isn't it for a 52


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> S-Line were Nov 2001 to Mar 2002 weren't they? Just a face-lift isn't it for a 52


This is September 2002


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah it's a face lift. I do have an s-line badge but mines not an s-line either...


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## Spacemonkey (Mar 5, 2021)

I thought the face lift had the 3 bar grille?


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## grahamtt225bam (Aug 18, 2021)

They do facelifted TTs 3 bar grille


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will take care of a couple of things on the tt mk1 that I wanted to do like replace the passenger side door mechanism where the micro switch is playing up and tidy up the front subframe but stay tuned as we will be starting on the mods in the next episode.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Whilst you're at chris it's worth taking a peek behind the wheel arch liners ( bulkhead end ) to remove any debris that has been collected the years, and for crusty surfaces that are difficult to reach get some acf-50 anti corrosion stuff spray or wipe over anything that's crusty to stop it from getting worse


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Delta4 said:


> Whilst you're at chris it's worth taking a peek behind the wheel arch liners ( bulkhead end ) to remove any debris that has been collected the years, and for crusty surfaces that are difficult to reach get some acf-50 anti corrosion stuff spray or wipe over anything that's crusty to stop it from getting worse


cheers for the tip mate 👍


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be replacing the pcv system with a catch can system as my pcv has had it as you will see from the video. Stay tuned see you in the next one 😁 cloude 9 customs (VAG 1.8 TURBO CATCH CAN KITS) https://cloude9customs.com/product/1-8-turbo-catch-can-kits/


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## Scriptkiddiee (Sep 21, 2020)

great progress and very entertaining channel chris keep up the good work.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Scriptkiddiee said:


> great progress and very entertaining channel chris keep up the good work.


cheers mate its getting there 👍


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be fitting a larger intake pipe and a pro ram induction kit .


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be fitting a budget front mount intercooler from gravity which i got in the sale for £272 lets see how it fits and what problems we have fitting it.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So essentially, you've made irreversible modifications to the bumper, front lower grill supports, removal of head light washers.
I can't remember where I put my horns, maybe back in the same place?

Probably, part of the issue with buying a kit with ready made hard pipes, if you had a bunch of 90 degree silicon, straight connectors you would have been able to pull in the passenger side to avoid the alien washer pipe work. What I found when trimming the bumper on the s3, is you think you need to trim bits in the way, but you can relocate the intercooler slightly, and fit the bumper past whatever is in the way. Also the passenger side connector to map sensor pipe you should scrap the hard rubber connector, the hard rubber pipes have those raised square bumps designed to fit into inset ridges etc and are a messy fit.

An issue with these videos is its a journal rather than comparing products. As you know its much quicker putting the bumper back on as the intercoolers are no longer in the way etc. And if you were to try a different intercooler you won't know if that also needs the bumper and aliens to be butchered.

Your original thread was "is this intercooler worth it?'

Is it? 
What logs have you run IATs EGTs MAF g/s specified / actual boost, timing etc

Did your car previously whistle? I have to admit, I never heard the outside apart from when I was trying to get pops and bangs on my S3


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> So essentially, you've made irreversible modifications to the bumper, front lower grill supports, removal of head light washers.
> I can't remember where I put my horns, maybe back in the same place?
> 
> Probably, part of the issue with buying a kit with ready made hard pipes, if you had a bunch of 90 degree silicon, straight connectors you would have been able to pull in the passenger side to avoid the alien washer pipe work. What I found when trimming the bumper on the s3, is you think you need to trim bits in the way, but you can relocate the intercooler slightly, and fit the bumper past whatever is in the way. Also the passenger side connector to map sensor pipe you should scrap the hard rubber connector, the hard rubber pipes have those raised square bumps designed to fit into inset ridges etc and are a messy fit.
> ...


yes had to mod the bumper but I done it in a way it still looks the same on the outside and my headlight washers didn't anyway.
so your question was it worth it?
well the fitment onto the car was good but the trimming of the bumper and removal of the aliens was a bit of a pain but its done now so happy its all on. Also other can expect to do it if they choose to fit the same fmic kit
I haven't got any logs on the car from before as it hasn't been driven on the road yet.im going to have to go from its dyno results from the previous owner and compare them to what it has when I take it on the dyno(I know this isn't the most accurate way )but to see if its added any more power by cooling the air. but lets see what happens. i got a friend with a standard 225 and we could go out on the same day and the same road and check his intake temps compared to mine


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The FMIC is most beneficial with warmer ambient temps. Really you are looking to keep IAT under 30°c on WOT. _These cars are good for cruising or WOT (which doesn't necessarily mean pedal flat on floor) not driving briskly only 80% throttle (unless you've mapped the fuel for that)_

Do you remember if this is 'bar and plate' or 'tube and fin' ?


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> The FMIC is most beneficial with warmer ambient temps. Really you are looking to keep IAT under 30°c on WOT. _These cars are good for cruising or WOT (which doesn't necessarily mean pedal flat on floor) not driving briskly only 80% throttle (unless you've mapped the fuel for that)_
> 
> Do you remember if this is 'bar and plate' or 'tube and fin' ?


good point mate. i think its tube and fin but could be wrong i did show the core in the vid


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah tube and fin, I think most are nowadays as apparently bar and plate is heavier although sturdier, slower for heat soak although slower to get rid of heat soak as less cross flow, there's like a bar and plate / tube and fin hybrid.. as bar and plate was not designed for the automotive industry. 

Have you pressure tested the charge circuit after fitting. Did your turbo whistle before fitting? When I fitted IC to my S3 it whistled but that was a leak.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

StuartDB said:


> Yeah tube and fin, I think most are nowadays as apparently bar and plate is heavier although sturdier, slower for heat soak although slower to get rid of heat soak as less cross flow, there's like a bar and plate / tube and fin hybrid.. as bar and plate was not designed for the automotive industry.
> 
> Have you pressure tested the charge circuit after fitting. Did your turbo whistle before fitting? When I fitted IC to my S3 it whistled but that was a leak.


Not pressure tested but boost up ok,yes it had a little whistle before but it dose have a new tip and induction kit now aswell so its a bit louder


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Do you have anything decent to create logs?


Assuming you have a blue KKL l
odb2 lead for VCDS lite free scanning tool. You should be looking to get Visual ME7Logger installed. It's definitely a worthwhile video guide and is the best (by a country mile) tool to log the car sensors.- it is probably more value to owners than guides which are already out there. 

It's not difficult, it just sounds difficult. If you are interested, I will send some pointers. An issue is.. I already have my .ecu file which is needed to gather the sensor values. But several people have done this. 

It's the only tool which returns all sensors values with a minimum 20 samples per second... it is in a completely different league to vag-com logging, which is utter rubbish.

Then you could start running the same log, on the same stretch of road after every modification you make. 

There's also ECUPlot which is compatible with the speed-sheets generated from Me7logger and allows you to pick whatever x-axis you want usually rpm or time and multiple sensors for y-axis and y-axis 2.

You could probably create profiles to help people get basic plotting charts...


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

AUDI TT MK1 what's happened? (channel update)


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be fitting a budget de baffled charge pipe from gravity, lets see how well it fits.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be going to get a mot which is a test in the uk to see if the car is road worthy and can be used on the roads but watch until the end because something has happened to the TT


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be going too see what went wrong with the TT and fix it.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be going too see what went wrong with the TT this time and hopefully we can use this car for more than a couple of days before something else going wrong


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Here's a boost leak for ya


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## grahamtt225bam (Aug 18, 2021)

Lol yep


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

grahamtt225bam said:


> Lol yep


refitting a standard charge pipe and clamp is the way forward.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

those p-clamps are far too wide and silicon turbo outlet pipe are no where near as good as the stock pipe - I think stock they have volcanic ash in or similar to handle the temps.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Delta4 said:


> Here's a boost leak for ya
> View attachment 482346
> View attachment 482346


that's defo a boost leak 😂🤣


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

chrisj82 said:


> that's defo a boost leak 😂🤣


Yep, i tried a few different clamps with the silicone pipe and as pointed out the latest was to wide so binned it off and gone back to the standard fitting boost and harmony has been restored


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be going on the longest journey so far in the mk1 to meet some mate and fellow youtubers to talk tt lets hope she makes it there and back in one piece 🤔


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Delta4 said:


> Yep, i tried a few different clamps with the silicone pipe and as pointed out the latest was to wide so binned it off and gone back to the standard fitting boost and harmony has been restored


yeah i think the fat ones are no good but my intercooler ones are still holding 🤞


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

The silicone pipe/joiners on the fmic are made from thinner material which most probably helps them to stay put.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

But the at over flared hard pipes aren't they.. 

Is your pipe work 64mm or 76mm?


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> But the at over flared hard pipes aren't they..
> 
> Is your pipe work 64mm or 76mm?


The pipework is 64mm flared etc.. no issues with any of that is was the silicone elbow that i got fed up of it was a bit like toffee it softened with heat and started leaking, having tried various grades of clamp with it i'm done binned it off.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode we will be replacing the rear trailing arm bush to a poly bush from powerflex without taking the arm off the car and without using a press


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

It's a job that's worth doing it'll help to get rid of the bump steer wiggle that the quattro does.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

Delta4 said:


> It's a job that's worth doing it'll help to get rid of the bump steer wiggle that the quattro does.


Definitely mate and its not that hard to do 👍


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode I will be showing you how I replaced the discs and pads rear brakes.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode I will be showing you how I replaced the front discs and pads. Disclaimer you do this at your own risk this is a guide to how I fitted mine. the brakes I used Audi TT 1.8T 225bhp 99-05 Front Rear MTEC Drilled Grooved Brake Discs & Pads | eBay


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode I will be fitting some cb auto arms to sort out my rear camber issue


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode I will be removing my clutch pedal and getting it strengthened so I no longer have to worry about it snapping while I'm out and about in the future. I suggest you get this done if you haven't already or at least have a strengthened pedal on stand by.


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this episode I will be sorting out the boot struts and interior light as well as having a go at some painting Thanks for watching see you in the next 1👀


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## chrisj82 (Jun 15, 2012)

in this vlog style vid we will be going to see if I managed to sort the paint out that I tried to do in the last vid as well as other things I needed to do today


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