# Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Window Regulator Emergency Fix



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I got the idea of using Vise-Grips to clamp the window drivers in place from a video demonstrating how to replace the cable in a regulator at Electric Window Repairs (UK). This video is worth a watch to understand how the regulator works, how the drivers are set up and the position of the cable and cable lugs in the drivers.






I figured if you can disengage the cable from the drivers or cut the cable on a jammed regulator, you could still get the window up manually and then use vice-grips to keep the drivers in place once the window has been raised. If a vise-grip wasn't available, cable ties could be used or wedge a towel, jacket or whatever is available, might also be sufficient to keep the window up.

The images were taken off the German YouTube video on replacing the regulator - 



 - thanks to Daniel Kowalski for allowing me to use the pictures from his video. 

This is not written as a repair guide, but as a last ditch effort to get the window up and secured in order to get home and seek a proper service repair.

*Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Window Regulator Emergency Fix*

* Window Regulator Over-View*

The regulator frame consists of a vertical front and rear guide rail. On the end of each rail are pulleys to guide the cable. A front and rear driver slides up and down on the rails. The drivers are secured to the cable by the means of a lug at two key locations on the cable. The lower edge of the window glass is connected to the drivers.

When the window motor is engaged, it rotates the main pulley where the ends of the cable are secured. As the cable winds up or down, both drivers move up and down simultaneously along the rails thus moving the window up and down.

If the window fails to go up or down and a crunching or grinding noise is heard, this is usually because the cable has broken or strands of wire have broken and jammed the pulleys. When this happens the cable is no longer free to travel over the pulleys and it can't move the drivers. In order to raise the window, the cable has to be disengaged from the drivers so the drivers can move freely on the regulator frame. This can be done on in one of two ways; (1) release the lugs from both driver drivers or (2) cut the cable below both drivers on the front and rear rails.

In either case, both drivers must be free from the cable lugs in order to manually raise and secure the window.









:!: *CAUTION* - Always were safety glasses and adequate gloves to provide protection from broken wire strands.

* Required Tools -*


The T25 Torx
Flat-blade screwdriver

Both the Torx and screwdriver are included as part of the Spare Tool Kit located in the left side of the trunk. The screwdriver handle fits both.

*Recommended additional tools if available - *


Small vise-grip pliers (x2), one for each window driver. If two are unavailable, one is sufficient.
A nylon pry-tool for assistance in panel removal. If unavailable, the flat blade screw driver can be used.
Heavy duty wire or cable cutter. (Vice grips often have a built in cutter)
Cable ties (could be used instead of vise-grips)

_The vehicle should be in a secure location where it is safe to work. Engine and ignition off with the key removed. Transmission in gear or in park with the parking brake on._

*Section 1 - Door panel removal*

1. Remove the T25 Torx screw located directly beneath the arm rest.

2. Use the pry-tool or screwdriver to remove the mid-range speaker cover and remove the T25 Torx screw in the upper corner.

3. At the lower-rear corner of the door panel, insert the pry-tool. Once you get your fingers in between the panel and the metal door, jerk the panel firmly towards you and work forward along the lower edge, then up along the front and rear edges to release the door panel clips.

*Note* - Lift the door panel free but do not lift the door panel up too far as the door lock cable and multi-pin electrical connector must be removed first.

4. Remove the door lock cable by sliding back the white plastic retainer and lift out the metal hook.

5. Remove the grey multi-pin wire connector by lifting the pink lever-arm to disengage it from the socket connector in the door.

6. Remove the door panel from the door and place it in a secure location to keep it from being damaged.

*Section 2 - Remove the Inner Door Cover, Speaker and Speaker Cover*

:!: *CAUTION *- The yellow electrical connector in the center of the door is the side airbag impact sensor. Do not disturb this connector or the sensor!

7. Use the pry-tool or screwdriver to release the tabs around the edges and remove the inner door cover panel.

8. Disconnect the speaker connector and remove the four T25 screws. Store the speaker safely out of the way.

9. Use the pry-tool to pull off the mid-range speaker cover. It may be easier to remove it by reaching inside the door, and pushing the cover out.

*Section 3 - Disengage the Cable from the Front and Rear Drivers 

Note* - To disengage the cable from the rear and front window Drivers, use the screw driver pry the lug out of the driver. Both the front and rear drivers must be free from the two cable lugs. If you can't disengage the lugs from the drivers, then the cable must be cut on both sides. In some cases, the cable may already be broken on one side, so you will have to evaluate the situation and do whatever is necessary to ensure both drivers are free.

:!: *CAUTION -* The cable is normally under tension and could snap outwards when disengaged or cut.

:!: *CAUTION -* If the window is unsupported when the cable is disengaged or cut free from the drivers, it could drop without warning.

*Note -* Insert a towel, a jacket or tennis shoes into the door to hold the window in place but away from the regulator frame and the cable. If possible, have a second person hold the window to keep it from moving.

*Note -* These instructions show the window in the full up position, however this can still be done regardless of the window position, as long as you can access the front and rear cables and/or drivers:

10. Disengage and/or cut the cable at the rear regulator frame.

11. Disengage and/or cut the cable at the front regulator frame.

*Section 4 - Lift the Window *

With the cable disengaged from the rear and front drivers, you can now raise the window manually. Grasp window and raise it into position.

On the rear driver, there's a bolt that passed through the glass and when tightened, clamps the driver to the window. The front driver is only clamped to the window. If you have assistance, one person should pull the window up while the other person pushes the front Driver up from inside the door to ensure it doesn't come loose from the glass. Work slowly in the event the cable needs to be moved out of the way if it's caught in the upper frame pulleys.

:!: *CAUTION -* Avoid getting your fingers caught in the regulator and away from broken or damaged wires.

*Section 5 - Clamp the Rear and Front Drivers to the Regulator Frame *

:!: *CAUTION* - Do not clamp the glass!

12. Once the window is in the fully closed (up) position, use the Vise-Grips to hold the driver in place by clamping directly below each driver and onto the regulator frame.

13. If you have two pairs of Vise-Grips, clamp the front window Driver in the same way. If not, wedge a towel, jacket, etc inside the door to prevent the front drivers from moving.

Be sure the window drivers are secure can not move. Check that the Vise-Grips are securely clamped. Towels, jackets, etc. should be left in place to help support the window.

*Section 6 - Reinstall the Parts in the Reverse Order they were Removed*

Couple of options here; store the door card in the back of the vehicle and reinstall it later or reinstall it now. The choice is yours depending on your situation.

1. Mid-range speaker cover
2. Speaker
3. Inner door panel
4. Multi-pin electrical connector
5. Door latch cable

*Note* - Before installing the door panel, check for any missing clips as some may have broken, fallen off or are still in the metal part of the door

6. Door panel
7. Mid-range speaker door panel

.


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## MarksBlackTT (Nov 29, 2016)

As usual, an extremely good write-up and well worth noting for an emergency. Thanks


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## Ady. (Oct 25, 2009)

Excellent write up (hope I never need it, but should I do...)

Can we make have this added into the knowledge base?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

To be honest, I'm hoping someone can perform a "proof of concept" to let us know if this will actually work. The idea seems solid, but it needs to be tested and verified. Unfortunately it's going to take someone with a broken regulator to do it.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

SwissJetPilot said:


> To be honest, I'm hoping someone can perform a "proof of concept" to let us know if this will actually work. The concept seems solid, but it needs to be tested and verified. Unfortunately it's going to take someone with a jacked-up regulator to do it.


How does this work with the shuttle at the opposite (hinge end) of the door frame? Will that be released by cutting the cable on the lock side only? Or will removal of the speaker necessary to gain access to cable on hinge side for cutting also?

Of course cable could have snapped on that side, in which case you are in luck!

Also would suggest that I found the door card clips are extremely stiff, and use of screwdriver to remove door card will almost certainly result in scratched paintwork. Trim tools very much recommended.

When mine failed I was lucky that after a little bit of backwards and forwards with the window motor combined with physically pulling up on the glass (door open  ), I did eventually return the window to the up/closed position. Stayed closed as well, and didn't need anything to keep it there. That could well have been down to my particular failure mode though...


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ pcbbc - There's only one cable, but if the forward section of cable is broken and the front driver is free, then half the work's done. If not, then it would requiring either disengaging it from the driver or cutting it. In which case, the lower speaker might have to be removed to get access. Obviously the location and access to the drivers and the cable when the regulator fails will determine how much you have to pull off the inside of the door panel to get to it.

I agree that a screwdriver is not the best way to remove the panel. But this is a "worst case" situation. You could always wrap it with a sock or towel to avoid metal-to-metal contact.


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## pcbbc (Sep 4, 2009)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ pcbbc - Thanks for the reply. That's a good point, since there are actually two cables.


Only one cable, but it crosses over in the middle in this sort of arrangement |X| and each end goes round the motor pulley. So as one end winds up, the other unwinds.
So I expect it depends on if the motor is located on the downward (to hinge side) diagonal or upward diagonal.
If on the downward side it could still be providing tension on the cable to the hinge side shuttle, preventing it moving up.

Thanks for the write up - As you say, needs someone unfortunate sole to have to try it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you look closely at the video, it's just one cable. Both ends are secured to the main pulley where the window motor drives it.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> To be honest, I'm hoping someone can perform a "proof of concept" to let us know if this will actually work. The idea seems solid, but it needs to be tested and verified. Unfortunately it's going to take someone with a broken regulator to do it.


I'm sorry to say that it will not work. It's not possible to remove the rear cable lug without removing the glass because it sitting directly above it. After so many hours of struggling to close that window. I decided to take it apart after taking a few minute break. After closing the door and the window goes up so I tried opening it again and the window go down. The computer think the window is already close. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery solve the problem. Make sure to inspect the cable first before attempting the reset. If the upper cable failed there is a huge risk breaking the glass if the cable completely failed.


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I got the idea of using Vise-Grips to clamp the window drivers in place from a video demonstrating how to replace the cable in a regulator at Electric Window Repairs (UK). This video is worth a watch to understand how the regulator works, how the drivers are set up and the position of the cable and cable lugs in the drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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