# Rear Prop Shaft Seal Splitting?



## top snagger (Jun 27, 2008)

Afternoon all

I had my TT in at my local dealers for its MOT last October, and was told that although it passed, the technician had spotted the rear prop shaft seal had signs of splitting?

I asked if it was a seal that could be replaced, and was advised it would require a replacement prop shaft :-o :-o

I was told that it was nothing to be too concerned with, and I may just notice some 'noise' when driving?
I didn't notice any noise at the time, so I thought I'd put up with it rather than part with £950 + vat + labour!!

Roll on 5 months, and I am now noticing a peculiar noise coming from below the car when driving. It definitely has something to do with the prop shaft or haldex unit as it becomes apparent at different phases of accelerating and I can only describe it as a sort of 'whining' which increases in pitch as the car accelerates (sounds like a police car siren in the distance?) and practically disappears if I hold the car at a constant speed.

I have looked below the car and can see the offending seal...


















I was wondering if anyone had previous experience with this problem and had any advice before I put the car into a garage for investigation?
I'm not 100% sure that the split seal is the source of the noise, it could be a coincidence that I was told about it earlier?

Thanks in advance for any feedback......


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

The part with the splits in the rubber is the flexible coupling which is combined with a vibration damper (the outer metal ring).

The 3-pronged coupling on the front of the Haldex unit has a central spigot the goes into the centre of the prop shaft and it is here that there is a seal. Because of that seal the prop shaft must be pulled straight forward to release it from the spigot once the 3 bolts are undone. The seal is not visible until the prop shaft is removed. 
The manual says that *if *the seal is damaged a new prop shaft will be required which implies that the seal is not separately available - at least not from Audi.
*IF *the seal is damaged it can be removed and measured. It will also have a makers ref number on it. From that information a new seal can be sourced from a specialist supplier.

The manual covers replacement of the flexible coupling indicating that it is available as a separate part.

You need someone who can carefully remove the propshaft, replace the flexible coupling and carefully replace it.

You do not need a new prop shaft to repair the fault shown.


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## top snagger (Jun 27, 2008)

Thanks for the prompt reply 

I think I understand what you are saying now...

I don't have access to any manual, but after looking on the internet after your reply I take it that this is the seal that you refer to as not being able to see until removing the prop shaft









If so, the technician can't be referring to that when he did his MOT inspection? He can't see it like you say.

And this must be something like the part which can be replaced









Looking at an online VW manual, it suggests that this coupling has to be balanced and mentions 'droning' during driving being an indication of it being out of balance? You also refer to it as a vibration damper so it sounds like the likely culprit.

Doesn't sound like a job for an amateur though...... :? :?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Yes on the seal and the flex coupling part.

The coupling could easily be the cause of the whining noise; yours is failing and will be out of balance. It's very likely that the noise would vary with road speed and load.

If you don't have relevant experience then it's probably better to get someone to do it for you. 
Part £30?? plus no more than an hour's labour.


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## PointnShoot (Oct 15, 2012)

brittan said:


> Yes on the seal and the flex coupling part.
> 
> The coupling could easily be the cause of the whining noise; yours is failing and will be out of balance. It's very likely that the noise would vary with road speed and load.
> 
> ...


It's knowledge and answers like above that make this place great. Potentially saved the OP £x00's .


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## top snagger (Jun 27, 2008)

PointnShoot said:


> brittan said:
> 
> 
> > Yes on the seal and the flex coupling part.
> ...


Thanks again.......i'll report back once it has been rectified


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## milnei (Feb 28, 2017)

I've got a vibration under moderate to hard acceleration. It starts at around 30, peaks at 65, then eases off.

When I bought the car a month ago it was awful, but after straightening out 3 buckled wheels it's a lot better, but still there. I put the back end up on ramps this afternoon and noticed my rear joint looking much the same as the OP's. I can quite easily move the metal ring to open and close the gaps.

YouTube video 



. (Sorry for the portrait aspect ratio video)

So, could this be the cause of my continued vibration??


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## HairyHamster (Apr 30, 2017)

Sorry to necro post but I have a grumble noise under hard acceleration. Could it be the middle balancer/joiner or could it be my end coupling ( the one just before the haldex )
















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## pokersquirrel (7 mo ago)

brittan said:


> The part with the splits in the rubber is the flexible coupling which is combined with a vibration damper (the outer metal ring).
> 
> The 3-pronged coupling on the front of the Haldex unit has a central spigot the goes into the centre of the prop shaft and it is here that there is a seal. Because of that seal the prop shaft must be pulled straight forward to release it from the spigot once the 3 bolts are undone. The seal is not visible until the prop shaft is removed.
> The manual says that *if *the seal is damaged a new prop shaft will be required which implies that the seal is not separately available - at least not from Audi.
> ...


Hey there! I'm in the same predicament with my 2012 TTS. Small cracks showing in these rubber propshaft bits, mechanic is saying audi doesn't make them as a separate part, would cost $2000 to order a brand new one. Gulp. 
I was hoping to save myself a lot of grief by ordering those much cheaper little parts from ECS tuning... But now I'm in a bit lost. Their fitment guide says they won't fit my car... but they do say they'll fit a 2012 Golf R 2.0 (which has the exact same drivetrain as my car as far as I know). Was wondering if you had any advice. Here are the ECS part links/#s. 

Front - Part number: 1j0521127a
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-pa...MIqeXSwbXz-AIVj-bjBx2sHgefEAQYASABEgJadvD_BwE

Rear - Part Number: 1k0521307a

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-pa...MIqeXSwbXz-AIVj-bjBx2sHgefEAQYAiABEgK4BvD_BwE


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