# Rotary polishing.



## itstony (Apr 8, 2005)

Anybody hve an experience and views on using a rotary polisher, like a Makita or similar?

Two years ago a thread was placed with a guy giving a white TT the business and he used a rotary polisher as part of his sequence. The results were stunning, but he was obviously experienced.

I must admit I am scared to let any machine near my paintwork, but perhaps done right is is good :?:


----------



## petesky (Jul 24, 2002)

I believe that Rotary Polishers are for the more experienced/professionals.
Random Orbirtal for the more amateur.

I'm no expert but as I understand it with rotary there's a risk if paint burn due to the person doing the polishing having responsibility for moving the rotary polisher's head so that one area of paint doesn't get too hot and thus burn. They also polish much quicker than random orbital.
The paint burn risk is removed substantially by going for Random Orbital where the polisher head moves of its own accord and thus makes it more unlikely for you to burn the paint.

To make the choice even more interesting you can get Rotary polishers from about £30 upwards but Random Orbital (for a good one) start at about over £100.
On the detailing world forum they'll recommend that Random will do for almost all situations for most people unless you're a pro and plan on doing many vehicles.

Again, I'm no expert but the LSP (last stage protection) should be done by hand anyway so if it's just cleaner, glaze, sealant or wax you want to apply then you don't need a machine at all.

Sample random ones are Meguiars G220 (new model) or Porter Cable 7424 (but this requires a transformer as it's USA voltage).
Rotaries can be had by using something from B&Q or the Silverline products at about £30 upwards.

The pads and chemicals are another world though.....


----------



## anTTony (Sep 2, 2007)

^^^What he said!^^^

Worth mentioning tho....go for a decent cutting polish if you want to remove swirls, as audi paint is hard as hell. I ditched my sonus stuff and replaced with menzerna 3.02 which is designed for this type of tougher paint.

Dont woory about messing your car up with a random polisher. Just get stuck in! The results you can get are amazing!

Ant


----------



## TeeTees (Mar 9, 2006)

If you have zero experience with machine-polishing, go for a Random Orbital polisher first - this'll give you the confidence and understanding on polishes, pads, and paintwork.

I've have the Porter Cable for about a year and a half now, and to be honest - it doesn't do ALL that I want it to on the Audi paint (rock hard German stuff). I've had a detailer around about a year ago, and he used a Makita 9227CB....it's power was phenomenal, but in the right hands it's sooo easy to use. He was telling me how alot of the comments on sites regarding the scary issues of using a Rotary are purely myths, and providing you use a touch of common sense and care, you really will find it difficult to 'burn' the paint - you have to leave it on a panel in the same spot for about 40 seconds before you get this reaction (depending on make of car, ie. paintwork).

I also had a friend around about a month ago, and he brought a Makita, and a Silverline Rotary polisher. So, in his supervision I got to use both. All in all, the Makita is miles better, and the correction rate was phenomenal......very easy to use, and very safe - like I say, with a touch of common sense.

Don't use the rotary on surfaces such as bumpers, unless you're a TRUE pro as the heat generated will simply 'burn' the paint - you don't notice it immediately, until it raises !! (so I've been told). So we stuck to using the Porter Cable on these surfaces.

In a nutshell, I bought a Makita this week, and the pads that I also purchased ranged from 'hard' (for tough area polishing) to 'real soft' (for finishing work). I'll start with a gentle polish, fairly non-abrasive, and a medium pad for the slight correction work needed - damn cats, and bird-shit !!

So providing you have a little common-sense, and plenty of experience with other polishers, the Rotary can be your best friend 8)


----------



## petesky (Jul 24, 2002)

TeeTees said:


> So providing you have a little common-sense, and plenty of experience with other polishers, the Rotary can be your best friend 8)


I'm glad you put that!
I got my Meguiars G220 today and so haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

I wasn't confident enough to plump for a rotary but a friend went for one and said using it was a piece of cake (although he was polishing up a 15 year old vauxhall as his daily runaround so wasn't attempting show'n'shine by any means).

I might try his Silverline one on the wife's car with the confidence you've just given me!


----------



## itstony (Apr 8, 2005)

Great replies guys and thanks for taking the time in explaining.
I guess most is common sense, but I can see sense in not trying it on the plastic bits.

I need to remover the crustations and get back to enjoying the best part, Swiss-rolling it. At the moment the marks spoiling it as you may well know.

I am a Makita man and in the last year or so been changing everything to that make, so will look for one.
I think I shall go for a rotary from the US on ebay, some great outlets and half the price.
110V so what's the big deal.

Any more views, keep em coming guys 8)


----------



## deason (Apr 6, 2007)

Let us know how you get on with the 220 as im interested in getting one myself.

I am just getting into polishers, bought halfords 240v and it is even still quite daunting using it due to burns and getting stuff under the paintwork etc so will look to get maybe a 220 in a few months for some buffing (not correction as i dont need it yet). Although i've heard buffing is better by hand on some sites so i may just use it for correction on my birds golf.


----------



## TeeTees (Mar 9, 2006)

petesky said:


> TeeTees said:
> 
> 
> > So providing you have a little common-sense, and plenty of experience with other polishers, the Rotary can be your best friend 8)
> ...


Just do me a favour....when you try out the Silverline, make sure you use the softest pad, and the least-abrasive polish first. You may not notice a difference, but get used to handling it first - it's like a wild horse....as soon as you have it tamed, it's your best friend.

They do recommend training yourself with these products (rotaries) on scrap panels first, which does make HUGE sense. Just remember that if you take this route - you HAVE to have the SAME car panel, ie. we have Audi TT's...make sure you GET an Audi TT's. Different cars have different paint depths, so this is very important.

Personally, if I were you with the G220 - I'd use that first so you can get to grips with using a polisher first, working out the pads and polishes, and getting a general feel for the difference between 'hand-polishing' and using a machine.

*Itstony* : what experience of machine polishing do you have ?....if the answer is none, I would recommend either getting someone local to you who has one to bring it around and let you have a try first. If you can't do this - but a scrap panel and have a practice on that first. :wink:


----------



## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

The rotary isn't the fire breathing dragon that it's made out to be :wink: Certainly you can do some serious damage so much more quickly than you can with a dual action/random orbit polisher...concentration is key to using a rotary - a moments lapse will see you make a potentially expensive mistake; I know, I have in the past.

Comments are often made that a better finish can be achieved with a rotary -I don't think so. I cut my teeth on a PC and I don't think the rotary gives me any better finish. What it does do, is allow me tackle defect correction much more swiftly.

Avoid the cheap Ebay specials and go for something like the Makita. I use one...it's quiet - thats important for extended use, it's not overly heavy, well balanced, perfect speed range (look for a min speed of 600rpm and not more than 2000rpm) and electronic soft start - good bit of kit!

I's suggest that for DIY use a PC or similar is more than satisfactory and removes that small element of danger with damaging the paint.

Still in Spain and SA Tony? Send a ticket and I'll help out ...good do with some sun:wink: 

Dave


----------



## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

Did alot of reading up on PCs a while back. Is this something better left for the professionals and experienced or something an amateur can pick up. Put it this way 12 months ago I used carwashes or sponge + 1 bucket till I saw the light :roll:


----------



## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

Hark said:


> Did alot of reading up on PCs a while back. Is this something better left for the professionals and experienced or something an amateur can pick up. Put it this way 12 months ago I used carwashes or sponge + 1 bucket till I saw the light :roll:


Plenty of folk who've never picked up a polisher in their life have come to grips with a PC (or similar) in a very short time and gone on to produce great results.

The PC is slow but safe and you have to be a complete wally to make a hash of it. Sensible and safe choice of pads/products and keeping away from paint edges will see you see safely and happily polishing...seems you have found all the sources for good info' - go for it and you'll wonder how you got by with hand polishing in the past 

Dave


----------



## itstony (Apr 8, 2005)

Jac-in-a-Box said:


> The rotary isn't the fire breathing dragon that it's made out to be :wink: Certainly you can do some serious damage so much more quickly than you can with a dual action/random orbit polisher...concentration is key to using a rotary - a moments lapse will see you make a potentially expensive mistake; I know, I have in the past.
> 
> Comments are often made that a better finish can be achieved with a rotary -I don't think so. I cut my teeth on a PC and I don't think the rotary gives me any better finish. What it does do, is allow me tackle defect correction much more swiftly.
> 
> ...


Yep still in Spain and just cannot ever see myself going back to live in the UK. I better not state the reason. :wink: 
In SA at the moment, 48-50 degrees C lately and baking. Night life still sucks :lol:

What is a PC Dave :?:

I would only get a Makita, I've been replacing every power tool I have with them and like a kid with new toys. Run out of what to buy next, but think I need a power tool to remove the many small crustaions of whatever they are, unless you have an idea?
I enjoy the manual clay barring, cleaning and polishing, but I cant get those marks off.
Time is not a big del, so would a rotary orbital be a better choice?
Cost is not an issue, I buy my tools online in the US and a lad carries them back to SA for me where I take them home, so with the weak dollar, no int-shipping or taxes I'm all  .
Just need to get the best tool. 8)


----------



## TeeTees (Mar 9, 2006)

itstony said:


> What is a PC Dave :?:
> 
> I would only get a Makita, I've been replacing every power tool I have with them and like a kid with new toys. Run out of what to buy next, but think I need a power tool to remove the many small crustaions of whatever they are, unless you have an idea?
> I enjoy the manual clay barring, cleaning and polishing, but I cant get those marks off.
> ...


A PC is a Porter Cable : random orbital polisher - nice and safe for beginners :wink: ....another option is the Meguiar's G220 which is a randon orbital polisher too

Just for the record, I used my Makita today for the 1st time - very daunting when trying to get rid off stubborn marks, as I was testing the temperature with the back of my hand, and BOY did it get HOT !!....but, also very easy. I didn't even get past speed 2 to be honest  (900 rpm)....but better be safe than sorry is my motto - especially when it comes down to the motor


----------



## Jac-in-a-Box (Nov 9, 2002)

itstony said:


> ...but think I need a power tool to remove the many small crustaions of whatever they are, unless you have an idea?
> ...I so would a rotary orbital be a better choice?
> quote]
> 
> ...


----------



## itstony (Apr 8, 2005)

Great response from everyone, much better than the replies from the main forum.
This is what it's all about, sharing knowledge.

The small crustations are very small and at first I thought they were rust coming through, thats how hard they were. I am not at home so unable to take pics for a while.
I use the Swissol cleaner Dave, absolutely fantastic and love they way you can feel that what you put in you will get out.....if that makes sense. I did PM saying I need some more soon. It is gut wrenching when its removed and these marks are small white sh*ty blemishes.
TBH I think they are from plants or possibly bird crap, but whatever they are, they are well bedded down 2-3mm is all they are. And yes, slap my wrists, but I did get frustrated and used my nail to have a go and still no movement so stopped before I lost my temper and regreted it.

I shall look at the site you gave, and let you know.
I normally buy from dealers on ebay, not private sellers and have the items shipped to a work mates house in Texas. He kindly accepts them and checks them in when returning to Saudi, so a great setup. I will look for a Makita for sure.

Nothing wrong with the UK Dave, too many good things other countries can only be wishful for, but when I transit through now, I am astounded at how hard it is to get someone to speak English. It used to be a joke, but it's not funny anymore.


----------



## tigger88 (Apr 15, 2006)

Hi Guys

I'm thinking about buying a Meg 220 because my car been to the dealer a few times for warranty work which included the usual quality 1 month old sponge and wash method. There are loads of swirling marks all over the car and holograms too because it was taken to the body shop to get some scratches removed on the bumper and someone used a rotary on the whole car at the bodyshop bef not a professional with the machine polisher!!!
I want to buy the starter kit Meg 220 (sonus products and pads kit) will it be powerful enough to get rid all all the swirl marks and hologram they are even on the rear lights???
Should I get a professional to do all the correction before I venture out and buy the kit being a novice?

Thanks
Chris Lau


----------



## petesky (Jul 24, 2002)

tigger88 said:


> I want to buy the starter kit Meg 220 (sonus products and pads kit) will it be powerful enough to get rid all all the swirl marks and hologram they are even on the rear lights???
> Should I get a professional to do all the correction before I venture out and buy the kit being a novice?
> 
> Thanks
> Chris Lau


Again, with my limited understanding.....you can do "almost" everything with a Megs 220 it's just that it may take a bit longer.
Many people over on the detailers forum recommend the Megs DA so it will likely be ok.

Peter


----------

