# TIE ROD REPLACEMENT - HOW TO



## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

*HOW TO REPLACE A STEERING RACK TIE ROD*

This is a common wear and tear fault often picked up at MOT or if you find your car wandering, tramlining, or the occasional knock in the steering on application of power on a tight turn, or just play.

You can test for it by jacking up a wheel, grabbing both sides and rocking left ot right. Feel the outer ball joint to tell if it's inner or outer joint and test the other side to see if it might be steering rack play. Hopefully it's just the tie rod or outer track rod end ball joint.

*Parts required:*

*8N0 422 804 C - tie rod (inc outer rod end ball joint) Right £72.60+VAT
[Alternative Firstline FTR4954 (offside tie rod only) @ £26.50 ask at a good motor factor]
[Alternative Firstline FTR4953 (offside outer rod end only) ask at a good motor factor]

8N0 422 803 D - tie rod (inc outer rod end ball joint) Left £72.60+VAT

N 908 349 01 - Clamp for boot (inner) Â£0.85+VAT
N 101 976 01 - Clamp for boot (outer) Â£0.40+VAT*

Firstline: http://www.firstline.co.uk/

One problem is that the tie rod is specified to be tightened to a torque of 75Nm but you can't use a socket. You need what's called a Crow's foot Spanner extension for your torque wrench.










After asking around for a 34mm crows foot spanner head and finding that they cost anything form £15 to £30 depending on which manufacturer, I decided to make my own. I looked at 34mm spanners to cut up but at that size they're expensive too and I wouldn't like spoiling a good tool. I found however that cheap and cheerful Draper Value have an adjustable spanner at £4.30 that goes to ~36mm. This would be ideal and would be useful for other sizes in future. So, I cut off the handle and made a 1/2" hole to work with a torque wrench.


















Here's the assembled tool (click to enlarge):


















When using this extension piece to torque a bolt (in this case tie rod joint) you need to carefully measure the distance between the centre of the bolt (tie rod) and the pivot (1/2" drive) point of your torque wrench. Also measure the pivot point to handle distance and then apply a correction factor according to the formula:

*M1 = M2 x L1 / L2 *

Where: 
M1 is the torque setting of the wrench. 
M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut 
L1 is the normal length of the wrench (from square drive to hand pull position)
L2 is the extended length of the wrench (L1 + extension)

See this link for an applet calculator for this: *Torque Extension Calculator*

... or this Norbar calculator for your phone: Mobile app

It's not essential to make this tool. You could buy a Crows Foot spanner of the correct size, or estimate the correct torque. If the latter, it would be advisable to use some threadlock to ensure it doesn't come loose.

Now for the job....

Jack up the front wheel concerned, supplement the jack with an axle stand for safety and and remove the roadwheel. Turn the steering wheel to extend the end of the steering rack. Now prize apart the larger and smaller band clips on the steering boot and pull the boot away from the rack.

There are two flats on the rack end behind the joint, which you need to counterhold with a spanner. It's important not to strain the rack and pinion! Here you can see the adjustable Crows foot applied along with a spanner to undo the tie rod joint. you can also see some rust due to moisture getting into the joint which may have caused it's demise. Also shown are the official special tools but room for clearance is not quite as easy as sugested.


































Now with the inner ball joint removed, measure the distance between the flat rear of the ball joint nut (ball joint held straight) and the interface between the lock nut and the outer ball joint. Be careful not to strain the outer ball joint boot. My distance was exactly 290mm.










Now undo the locknut with opposing spanners (there are flats on the outer ball joint) and unscrew the tie rod.


















Remove the locknut and remove the boot.

Here are the two tie rods. The suppliers (Firstline) said they were OE parts. There are slight differences in design but this may be a revision by the OEM. The new one is certainly better than the old one!










If you are keeping the old boot, give it a clean with hot soapy water and brush inside and out and dry thoroughly.

Apply some lithium grease to the tie rod arm and slide the new (or re-used) boot over the arm. Apply some CopperEase or CopperSlip to the threads on the outer end of the tie rod and screw on the locknut. Measure the distance between the rear face of the ball joint nut and the outer face of the locknut and adjust to the previous measurement.

Without disturbing the locknut, screw the inner ball joint into the rack and torque to 75Nm (at rack - 62Nm on my torque wrench according to the formula). Some thread-lock compound will do no harm (although unnecessary if correctly torqued). Make sure you don't strain the rack - use the opposing spanner on the rack end.

Next, screw the outer end of the tie rod into the outer ball joint, up to the locknut, then lock the locknut securely (spec = 50Nm).










Now cover the ball joint, rack end and rack casing/boot mounting in grease (more for rust protection/sealing), connect boot securely to rack casing end and tighten larger boot clip in place. Nail pincers will do if you don't have the correct tool. Space is limited - make sure the boot and clip are tight enough not to rotate - you don't want them coming off and allow water and dirt to get in.

Next apply outer clip so boot is retained in recess on tie rod arm. Degrease the exposed portion of the arm and paint with black Hammerite paint.

Finally, test drive and note the position of your steering wheel in a straight line forward direction. Correct the tie rod accordingly to bring the steering wheel back in line but get the tracking checked properly before too many miles.


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

Nicely written John, thanks for sharing.

That looks like quite an involved job, very rewarding though. Youâ€™re becoming an old hand at TT maintenance now :wink:, is there nothing you won't have a go at.
BTW those front wishbone bushes in your last picture look like one of your next undertaking  .

Regards Ken


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Thanks Ken - what do you mean about my wishbone bushes? :wink:


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## KenTT (Feb 20, 2005)

John-H said:


> Thanks Ken - what do you mean about my wishbone bushes? :wink:


Hi John

I could be wrong, but your bush in the pic looks like it is starting to crack around the rubber like this one in the pic.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Hi Ken,

How do you know form this picture? Is it the wishbone position looking below centre? It's the same on the other side so I didn't think too much of it and I think it only looks like that with the wheel off the ground. I'll check later.


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## Chip_iTT (Nov 14, 2003)

Nice one John... how did u make the hole in the spanner?

..and don't forget to update your sig


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Hi Irving,

I made the hole with a bit of careful marking of the best position for the 1/2" square and square centre, followed by the use of the pillar drill and surface vice at work. I progressively worked up to 1/2" drill with plenty of cutting oil. The steel wasn't too hard but you do need sharp HSS drills (or cobalt if you've got them). I then worked into the corners with a Dremel to get enough room for a file, which I finished off with. The handle cuts off easily with a hack saw. The ball on a 1/2" drive locks nicely in the hole.

I think if the spanner had been a better quality chrome vanadium type it would have been more difficult. The spanner I used was Draper Value Adjustable Wrench Stock No: 19685 which you can get for under Â£5 e.g.:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=14123








P.S. I've hit the character limit in my signiture strip - not sure if I can fit it in


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## gt russell (Nov 27, 2005)

Brilliant write up john, BTW the bushes look fine to me,but if you need a how to, give me a call ive replaced both of mine ( easy DIY ) just need the right sized plates to press them with a 5 tonne vice and some heat. again very well documented :wink:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Hi Russell. I think if I end up replacing them I'll get Powerflex ones which are designed to be fitted by hand - they're split in two halves.


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## gt russell (Nov 27, 2005)

If I had known about th power flex ones I would have bought those instead, But there you go I always find out after the event :lol:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

An update on the Powerflex bushes: - They don't flex as easy as the bonded rubber type and the hole in the centre tends to wear oval so they become loose - So says Steve Schwing - so when I replaced mine during the DEFCON mod I opted for new OEM bonded rubber ones.


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## MCPaudiTT (Jan 17, 2007)

John-H said:


> Hi Russell. I think if I end up replacing them I'll get Powerflex ones which are designed to be fitted by hand - they're split in two halves.


Or get yourself a real gift and put in DEFCONs :wink:


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

I did that - you missed my post above yours :roll:


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## SinfulDesignCom (Mar 2, 2013)

Just resurrecting an old thread to say thanks to John for the write up. Gave this a quick read before doing the job this afternoon. Start to finish in 40 mins with some awkward nuts.

One thing to bear in mind - the tie rod I got was spherical all round on the inner joint, with a very small lip for the spanner on the inside closest to the thread. When the bar was in place and hand tight, the subframe doesn't give clearance to get to this lip to tighten to the required torque. So for now, have put loads of nut lock and tightened as best I can with some moleys. But will get to my local garage to get it up to the required torque. Even so, a lot better than the rod that was on there with about 5-6mm of play


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

And after 6 years from last post I'm again resurrecting this thread with more questions :roll:

In parts catalogue below, there are two types of tie rod parts:
Items #4a
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tt ... 422040/#12

The ones ending in C are for standard car and the D parts (where it says for G98) are for sports suspension, they are also obviously different for left and right, C part is about 100 from Audi while D part is 135eur.

Now, aftermarket parts, only Lemforder makes separate parts (about 60 each), everyone else has the same part for C or D, for example SKF parts are about 20.

Whats the difference between them? Maybe D part is thicker hence stronger?

And what should I get as my car came with std suspension but I have lowered it with B6 Bilsteins and H&R springs?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

I would say the rods are the same but there might be a slight difference with the shape of the rod ends. Maybe to give more clearance somewhere.
Just fit standard non sports as you have now as it all works.


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

silkman said:


> And after 6 years from last post I'm again resurrecting this thread with more questions :roll:
> 
> In parts catalogue below, there are two types of tie rod parts:
> Items #4a
> ...


What is the ride height now? (Wheel centre to underside of wheel arch). 
Mac.


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## silkman (Jul 29, 2004)

PlasticMac said:


> What is the ride height now? (Wheel centre to underside of wheel arch).
> Mac.


Haven't measured but it should be similar to a UK TT with sports suspension..


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## PlasticMac (Apr 25, 2017)

Best measure it, if it's less than 350 mm, I think you need adjustables.
Looks like it has been lowered, from the pic, nice though.
Mac,


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