# 225 turbo replacement



## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Hi
I am back but with another TT. It's definitely blown a seal or something as it is smothered in oil and blows new clouds out the back.

How hard is it to access and change the turbo?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

if it has not been worked on it that area the main challenges are undoing the manifold to turbo e14 bolts (they need to be hot) and the downpipe to turbo bolts (they may be rusted and rounded).

but the actual removal of the turbo if the bolts are not seized is relatively straight forward, it is drawn out over the gearbox. essentially this is what you need to do. (I would first try and get the manifold to turbo bolts loosened before taking everything else off)

starting with the car jacked up safely and the driver wheel removed and any plastic shielding if you have it...

1. remove air box, TIP, charge pipe etc (disconnect battery negative lead)
2. drain coolant and oil
3. remove coolant return from block along with bracket above (which is for the coolant feed - it improves accessibility)
4. remove oil return from sump and bracket
5. remove EGT sensor and move it out the way, they are expensive so you dont want to break it doing something else.
6. remove turbo support bracket bolt (this is going to be tight if never undone, you can reach it from above the gearbox reaching around the turbo, but wont be strong enough at that angle - so maybe tap from above with something like a long spark plug spanner or from below enough to start the bolt reaching through the subframe and around downpipe.
7. undo the 3 manifold to downpipe e14/e12 (and hope you dont spend £30 and 4 hours on drills)
8. undo the 3 downpipe to turbo 17mm (you will need a c spanner and cut a 17mm flat ring and open end in half and undo the firewall one 1/10 of a turn at a time. with the turbo and manifold separated you can fit a 17mm socket for the top nut and the last one is reachable (near the block).
9. manipulate the turbo out of the support bracket and leaning over to reach the 2 8mm allen banjo bolts for the coolant and oil feed retrieve the washers but you will want to replace them.
10. you can then withdraw the turbo along with the oil and coolant return pipes over the gearbox - this will take several from above and from below manipulation of the pipes as they will get caught on the downpipe and driveshaft etc

general advise is to replace the oil feed pipe when replacing turbo and cheap Chinese Turbos are renowned for problems although I ran one for a few months without any major issues but needed to modify the hotside of the turbo as it was manufactured with a CAD plan made with the gasket upside down so the opening wasn't aligned with the manifold and the wastegate hole was far too small. if your existing turbo hotside is not cracked, you can just buy a turbo cartridge CHRA and keep you compressor housing and hostside.

fitment is reverse but I would advise getting a ball end 8mm allen key, as it is tough trying to get the banjo bolts back in along with the washers using a socket due to angle and space and leaning over the car with sweat dripping into your eyes.

When I needed to change my downpipe on my S3, I couldn't get the bolts undone from the downpipe to the turbo - so had to remove the head (also had a suspected head gasket failure) to undo them from the turbo, in addition to this I couldn't undo one of the manifold to turbo bolts so needed to drill the head off the bolt, and undo the stud from the hotside.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

So if it all undoes then not a bad job but could be a pig lol


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIPEIxy ... 5UexHlVYmF

Worth a watch for the turbo replacement and the troubles she has trying to swap it out
Not bad eye candy either


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Lol eye candy sounds a better watch to me.lol


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

I've replaced my turbo a couple of times now - switched out the original due to hotside cracks to a ebay one, then a few months later the Chinese one to a second hand K04 off a TT that was being broken.

To make life easier I went back the first change with a braided flexible oil supply line (Original stiff metal one is an absolute dog to get back in right), and changed the dreaded E14 bolts to studs with nuts.
The turbo bracket nut didn't want to undo so 12 Dremel metal cutting blades and 3 hours later...&#8230;..

F**king car


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

So basically, accept the pig of the job it will be but put it back together with better easier parts.

Where did you get the braided return hose?


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

patriotk11 said:


> So basically, accept the pig of the job it will be but put it back together with better easier parts.
> 
> Where did you get the braided return hose?


Its the feed hose, the return is already braided.
The original is an absolute pain with a hard to access bolt keeping it to the turbo and if is not lined straight its impossible to get the banjo bolt to turn into it when refitting the turbo and since the pipe is solid you can imagine how difficult it is to manipulate especially as the turbo itself is not in the seated position because if it was you wouldn't have access to the banjo bolt with it sitting under the top of the ruddy engine. This one does away with all that crap, you can remove the bracket at the front of the car and on removing the turbo in future I just removed the line from the front of the oil filter and left the hose attached to the turbo.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A3-A4-A ... #vi-ilComp


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

First list on my shopping list then lol. I'm starting to strip my turbo this weekend


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

keep a few snaps of the work you are doing, it is always useful to get a view for others undergoing the same tasks


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Had a couple of hours on it this afternoon after work. Got 2 of the bolts undone on the down pipe and got two star bolts out the turbo, managed to round the third off grrrr.

Jobs tomorrow, drain oil, remove banjo oil pipe and turbo support pipes, remove third bolt from down pipe and try to drill out the star bolt I rounded.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Is Irwin solution feasible?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Gri ... B000QW6K8I

Fake versions will break


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

Are you going back with a Chinese ebay turbo or a secondhand K04?

I feel your pain regards the E14 bolts, its a common problem. That's why I switched to studs with bolts - Can premount the gasket and its easy to slot the turbo into the manifold when fitting. Also solves any problem in the future with seized bolts because the nut is right there accessible.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I think with the stud suggestion I'll go for a Chinese one but not sure what turbo I have lol.

I got the downpipe unbolted and spent 3 hrs drilling that bolt to no avail grrrrr
Now I'm cold so have come in lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Was thinking this turbo but not sure if it's right?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3256193043


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

Beware of ebay turbos, I had one that came with a buggered actuator that needed changing and a waste gate hole that was too small and caused overboost all the way to limp mode. When it does come check the actuator works ok and compare the wastegate hole to your old original turbo otherwise you will be flying up to 1.3+ bar and then dropping down to 0.5 bar.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Will do. Do we think that's the right turbo?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Why did you say drilling to no avail, you have done loads of it. You just need a bigger bit. Or get of those stone ones. I spent hours and about 40 quid on drills they blunt very easily you either need carbide or cobalt and keep them well oiled.

Once you get down to the washer you can whack the stud to break the flattened bolt head free. That will leave about an inch of stud to remove if keeping the hot side.


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

patriotk11 said:


> Will do. Do we think that's the right turbo?


Yes its a KO4-23 type.
Tempted to advise you to plump for a second hand one on eBay for a bit more cash to be sure, just make sure there are no hotside cracks.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

To no avail was probably a bit strong I was just cold and frustrated lol. I'll try to grab a cobalt after tomorrow, fingers crossed it will go lol.

The one I'm watching shows a temp sensor in the turbo is that like mine? 
Maybe I will get a second hand one or if I can find someone to rebuild mine for a reasonable cost.


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

patriotk11 said:


> To no avail was probably a bit strong I was just cold and frustrated lol. I'll try to grab a cobalt after tomorrow, fingers crossed it will go lol.
> 
> The one I'm watching shows a temp sensor in the turbo is that like mine?
> Maybe I will get a second hand one or if I can find someone to rebuild mine for a reasonable cost.


Yeah, well mine has (BAM 225). Its the braided silver cable running from a black box thing bolted to the bottom of your intlet manifold at the front of your motor to the back of the turbo, to sound all advanced and technical.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Yashin said:


> patriotk11 said:
> 
> 
> > To no avail was probably a bit strong I was just cold and frustrated lol. I'll try to grab a cobalt after tomorrow, fingers crossed it will go lol.
> ...


Definitely sounded advanced and technical lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Yashin said:


> I've replaced my turbo a couple of times now - switched out the original due to hotside cracks to a ebay one, then a few months later the Chinese one to a second hand K04 off a TT that was being broken.
> 
> To make life easier I went back the first change with a braided flexible oil supply line (Original stiff metal one is an absolute dog to get back in right), and changed the dreaded E14 bolts to studs with nuts.
> The turbo bracket nut didn't want to undo so 12 Dremel metal cutting blades and 3 hours later...&#8230;..
> ...


Were they M14 studs?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

no they are m10 studs E14 is an inverse torx. the EGT sensors are over £200 so be careful not to break it when you remove the turbo, I think you need a 14 or 15mm open ended spanner to undo it.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Is that the sensor in to the bottom of the turbo


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Would you recommend trying to undo it now whilst the turbo is in situ or is it a remove once the turbo is free for access?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Definitely try and get it out first, you don't want this to happen.










Also, if you get a Chinese turbo you will maybe find that you need a few extra washers on the sensor as the holes are not the right depth.

I did a thread a couple of years ago (maybe not that long i'm not ageing well  ) highlighting the bits I needed to do to correct the hot side of my 89 quid turbo.

1. Wastegate hole

2. EGT sensor washers

3. Open up / correct turbo to manifold opening


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Ok, so tomorrow will be turbo getting off day as I have the day off so day light and fed up of thinking about the turbo lol.

I have taken on board the Chinese concern so opt for a second hand turbo and bought one, 80k on the unit so fingers crossed is bang on.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Just be careful, you should have got yours out first - if it's not been mapped your hotside might not be cracked then you can get a brand new OEM CHRA for about £250.

I bought a 'perfect' k04 second hand turbo, I only wanted the hotside but it was total junk.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

It's out it's out. The turbo is out..... Thank god, it has no Audi badges and turbo numbers no fully match other turbos like a ko4-022 turbo.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

These are the codes I can kind of read from my turbo

06a145704p

04022cc5016541


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Photo the turbo, and did you remove an egt sensor from the back?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

No egt sensor as I was looking for it. I'll upload a pic


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

The new second hand ones here. Feels good and looks good so fingers crossed


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Well that has an egt sensor hole (k04-023), so if you have an APX without an egt sensor you'll need to bung that.

Also take a photo of the hotside where the exhaust manifold connects to check for cracks.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

No obvious cracks that I see


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

It's this bit that gets cracks which travel down to the lump and swell up with heat.










Even from this distance it looks like a chunk has broken off?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I think the dark dot was a drop of water. 
Probably me drooling with excitement


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

probably - best of luck with it. you know it is an original one as it has inserts

make sure you prime the oil infeed ( just add a syringe of engine oil unless you have some turbo priming oil)

what are you going to do about the EGT hole? do you have an APX?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Mine is an apx, I was thinking a bolt and washer to try and seal the egt hole. Can I syringe the oil straight in to the turbo whilst mounting it in place as otherwise it's almost impossible to get to that hole lol?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah you just fill it up before you put in the banjo.

Im sure a bolt will be fine, no idea what the pitch etc is or try and find a broken egt sensor.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Ok so 3 hours spent this evening trying to fit the new turbo just to get to the exhaust bolts which won't do up because the turbo isn't seated in the support bracket. Aghhhhhhhh. Tried all I could think of to get it to go in but just can't seem to get the angle. How do you remove the bloomin bracket as the job is so much easier with it out the way? 
Any tricks or technique I've missed. Would be better removed but even that seems a mission and the bolts are tucked behind other engine parts....
Help


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Don't remove the exhaust bracket. 
Maybe practice aligning it without the coolant feed or oil feed pipes in the way to make sure you can slide it into the bracket first. Then check you can align the turbo with the manifold, then work from there to twist it slightly to get coolant and oil feed in whilst in the bracket already.

It's back breaking work because of the leaning over the engine for so long.

Revisit calmly tomorrow. Maybe a dash of oil of the bracket, also what's really annoying is when you do it all then realise the coolant return is the wrong side of the bracket


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Also remember what I said about ball ended 8mm Allen key as the oil and coolant feeds are difficult to line up with a solid socket, but too tight space for fingers.

Thr problem with removing the bracket is you won't be able to get to it to do back up after.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Attempt 2 tonight. I'll try with that bracket, just was soooo close last night before I remembered the bracket and the problem it caused. Now back to square 1 lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Finally fitted, now have to remember where half the pipes go


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I also leant on a little plastic pipe going to a black box on the rocker. The black pipe crumbled so guess it was brittle, now looking for an alternative lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Done, fitted piped up.

Test drive was good.

Am having some smoke in the engine bay by the turbo which I'm praying is just burning oil and water off where I made a mess.... Fingers crossed


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

hey good work dude 

check your manifold to turbo gaskets - they often leak until warm then seal. there's often a but of hand smudged oil on the turbo, downpipe, manifold etc


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

StuartDB said:


> hey good work dude
> 
> check your manifold to turbo gaskets - they often leak until warm then seal. there's often a but of hand smudged oil on the turbo, downpipe, manifold etc


Thank you. I'm super chuffed, now I'll bed her in gently


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Drives fine up to 3500rpm but then seems to struggle after?
I had 2 incidents of smoke from the zorst when I tried to push a bit but not to hard?
Bit confused.
I have found that the intercooler pipe from the turbo to solid pipe has a split along it so whether that's it?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What? Of course that's the problem the air comes out the turbo and goes into your engine bay instead of engine.


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

lol

You really should get a boost leak test done as there will probably be more. As stated above, your turbo is compressing air that's flying out of your split pipe instead of into your engines cylinders. Its a bit like leaving a outside door open on a submarine when you dive, it defeats the purpose really.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I've ordered a silicone replacement one so hopefully should be here by Wednesday. 
It drives ok low down but then makes a farty noise which I assume is the pipe flexing as it pushes out. 
Reading online sounds like a regular pipe to go


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah at 3500rpm it will be pushing out 15 odd psi - that's why even on a stock TT the pipes move as they expand under boost and sort of float up to the beading then go air tight again.

I hope you got a good replacement, the red pipe is made of pretty stern stuff (fernex or similar) to go up to 100's of Degree Centigrade.

I'm gonna have to get a new one for myself I reckon


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I've gone for a silicone but may try to source an original tomorrow as I am a bit impatient lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Now I have a blow between the turbo and manifold. Not sure the studs are holding well enough


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

One of the pictures of the replacement turbo stuart pointed out what looked like a piece of metal missing, if that was the case then it may have contributed to the gasket blowing but it's worth checking that the fittings are tight before you remove the turbo.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Nipped up 1 stud and 2 nuts. Maybe the heat got to them but much better. I'll check again when the new pipe arrives


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What bolts and washers did you connect turbo to manifold with?
When I fitted my gasket it blew a chunk of gasket off, it maybe way l worth checking it isn't damaged.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I used M10 50mm studs with Alan key heads and studs. Oddly for a vauxhall exhaust. Now I've nipped them up there is no blowing so hope the manifold is good.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Did you keep the titanium washers? I think they protect the bolt from the heat, also you can get nordlock washers otherwise you might find yourself nipping them back up every couple of weeks.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I have 2 washers. The 3rd got a bit of damage getting the bolt out. Nordlock nuts sound good though


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Washers I mean


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah they are great, also reusable even though they separate. Quite expensive for a washer though I think they are over 1 quid each.

Well two for 5 quid !

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerzetix-Nord- ... B075S8W1MP

Bit cheaper on ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Helico-Nord- ... 2420523346


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Unplugged the MAF today because although I has a hose leak it just feels way down on power, to much to recover from a pipe.
The result was still pulling to 3k but in all gears rather than just 1st and 2nd so might be something to look at


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Ordered the nordlock washers and locking nuts


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## Essex2Visuvesi (Oct 22, 2019)

have a look at aerotight nuts
https://www.nutsandbolts.co.uk/aerotight-nuts.html
I like to use these on exhaust manifolds and any application that is subject to extreme heat cycles


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I went for these as I'm using exhaust manifold bolts now but they just don't cut the mustard.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Just had confirmation the pipe I'm waiting on is out of stock grrrrrr. Will order else where.
Is there any difference with part numbers 06A145832L. Mine end in L but there are loads saying they fit but instead of L they end in C or A


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I got a little tired of using those style nuts as they end up generating so much heat trying to undo them unless they are doused in WD40 they undo the studs, I had to cut through my downpipe to cat nuts and bolts as they couldn't be undone

I used BMW copper exhaust manifold locking nuts on the downpipe to turbo as 14mm M10 so easier to undo the top one under the manifold, well two of them - the difficult to get to one next to the firewall I used a stock 17mm hex M10 - as I had already cut my spanners up to fit.

regarding the turbo outlet pipe - there are plenty of them around - but I would only use a decent manufacturer if silicon is used eg forge / ss . you need the L version the C version is made from a different material and is for a 180.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... 6a145832c/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-vol ... 6a145832l/

The original L version is pretty expensive new..

this is available though from Croatia

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-S3-S ... 3972556856


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

New washers, nuts and pipe have arrived so will find out tomorrow (if I get chance) if it makes the difference lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

New bolt fitted so no blowing. New pipe fitted but still no power over 3500rpm?
I'm guessing a different issue then. Checked the MAF, this seems cool plugged in or unplugged drives the same.
N75?
N249?

Not sure


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Can you log the car?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Could be n75 or DV not sealing. Is your wastegate actuator set correctly? if thats open slightly you won't get good boost


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

Cant stress enough the usefulness of a boost gauge - will tell you if the turbo is producing boost, overboost then limp mode,boost leaks etc.

If its a second hand OEM turbo the actuator should be all set up as is, by the look of your pictures it seems ok, gates closed etc. Possible large boost leak so no compressed air is getting from the turbo to the engine. I have had a few of these over the years (Dipstick tube completely disintegrated was one, leaking tophat mounting for the oil cap was another).


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Hi

I've plugged in to a code reader, but not a vagcom. No codes.
I have ordered a new n75 just in case.
I swapped the DV to a standard one but no different.
I'll test for boost leaks


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

How do you test or setup the wastegate? Just to check really


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

It's like closed then 2 turns, but isn't this the same issue before you changed the turbo? Or was the turbo smoking, can't remember why you changed it?

Also like an exhaust as you fix the weakest point the next weakest will break.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

The oil seals had blown on the old turbo, was a mess. Smoked like an absolute trooper lol


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## Yashin (Sep 10, 2016)

patriotk11 said:


> How do you test or setup the wastegate? Just to check really


Disconnect the hose running from the turbo actuator to the N75 (at the N75 side, leave the other end connected to the actuator). connect a hand pump with gauge to the hose and start pumping up the air pressure. When you reach 0.5 bar the actuator rod will start to move outwards and be fully extended at about 1 bar.
Advise not to fiddle with the actuator at this point though, pretty sure its not your problem.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Yashin said:


> patriotk11 said:
> 
> 
> > How do you test or setup the wastegate? Just to check really
> ...


I agree I don't think it's the fault but will test it whilst I wait for the n75.

Any way to test the n249?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Why not just bypass the n249 jungle?

Have you got me7logger and a kkl lead, maybe should try and log your car's sensor, otherwise you'll just keep buying stuff! A new N75 bam/amk is about ~65 quid!


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I have looked to bypass the n249 valve but hit a snagg that I'm not sure how to resolve???


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Thats going to need the manifold off and the hole underneath drilling and tapping for a threaded hosetail.
one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MHM6-4MM...275590?hash=item3628889c86:g:xToAAOSwA~VaQKEB I think it's 4mm but not sure.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I've been looking and think I can blank off the hole underneath and the pipe from the DV as per this pic. What we think?

From the 249 valve I have 2 pipes, where does the second go or delete from?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

do you have an SAI? If you do I think you need to delete that too. I have only have later AMK and BAM - so cannot help


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

It should be ok, or T off the fuel pressure reg pipe.
How are you going to blank the hole under the manifold?
The other pipe you mention might go to the black vacuum tank. would have to look.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I was thinking of in weld or something along those lines as a temp fix for the hole.

If it goes to a black tank can I just blank it off?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

This is the other pipe. Where do I plumb the other end?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Not sure what that is, don't think mines got one under there. Mines on top of the cam cover, Is that your n249 valve?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Intake vacuum solenoid


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

This thread mentions it's connected to the EGR valve, last post https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt...enoid-under-intake-manifold-question-1894363/
What engine code is yours. Sure i haven't got one of them (BAM engine)


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Must be like Stuart mentioned, SAI has to come out as well., Google EGR delete or SAI delete


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

It's the apx engine.

Would look to go to the sai valve. So looks like doing sai delete then lol


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Ordered a blanking plate but appears that I need a resistor? In the connector to stop the engine light. Is that correct? Any idea which resistor I would need?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

You can measure the resistance of the valve or leave it plugged in


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

The N249 valve is 330 ohm so might be the same
10w 330 ohm resistor


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Ordered the bits to blank the sai. In the mean time my n75 valve is in so will fit that. Can I test drive with the sai vacuum disconnected?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Using a T piece would it work using the sai pipe taping in to the fpr vacuum pipe?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I'll try and report back


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

N75 in place, 249 bypassed and still no boost.
Feels responsive up to 3k rpm but then nothing.

Any ideas?


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Have you pressure or smoke tested your boost pipes?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I have the pipe pressure being tested tomorrow and despite my code readers showing nothing it is having vcds lite scan tomorrow too. Hope I find the issue as she lovely otherwise


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

This has been dragging on. Can you summarise what the original issue was and what you have already changed, fixed etc and what the current issues are?

Im sure it started with a turbo issue which you replaced with an (history unknown) second hand turbo? Then found a missing boost pipe from the charge pipe to DV?

Have you ever logged it properly? Eg vcds / vagcom ?

Have you actually driven it? Im sure someone here said they haven't driven it on the road but there's no boost when sitting on a drive? Was that you? (If you get boost sitting in the drive with a stock map then there's something wrong with your car, it should have 0 psi revving on a driveway)


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

> I am back but with another TT. It's definitely blown a seal or something as it is smothered in oil and blows new clouds out the back.


Like your original post is 2 faults, is leaking oil externally and internally?

Do you still have oil leaks?

You say 'no power' after 3k can you hear the turbo spinning? A tt225's turbo only really kicks in if healthy at about 2800rpm. Is it even spinning? Can you spin it by hand? Maybe it's seized! did you sort out the issues causing the previous turbos failure? Maybe it's broken too?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Totally agree it's dragging on.

Bought with no history of the last 20k miles but looks well looked after until then. The turbo originally ploomed smoke and was soaked in oil itself, also had some play. Suspected oil seals. The new turbo spins nicely by hand and freely, or certainly did off the car with no play. It doesn't leak oil or ploom smoke.
I have driven her in total for about 250 miles over the last few weeks.
Like I said I have her being scanned by the VC lite tool today and testing for boost leaks.

How else can I test the turbo if no play or oil leaks?

Thanks


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

You are going to need to scan the car, clear all the faults then drive the car, you may as well drive in 3rd gear to 6k and scan again. As you may have shed loads of faults on first scan.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

No codes and no boost leaks


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Tested the wastegate and that opens too


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Have you got an OBD a Bluetooth adapter and torque app? You can watch whats happening with boost psi, maf, AFR, rpm and other things when you drive. If you haven't got the gear to do proper logging you need to get Torque pro.
You can drive and have the screen recorder on (all dials on one screen) and see whats dropping the power off after 3k


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I don't have the Bluetooth bits.


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## davebowk (Aug 16, 2019)

Bits needed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HH-ELM32...737942?hash=item3f9ee4da96:g:6QcAAOSwHrldytNG
Android phone/tablet
Torque app from app store
Examples


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

exactly - it's nowhere near as good as me7logger - but will at least give you an idea of what is going on.

Sometimes, I think people dont really want to solve the problems.

No such thing as random expensive guesswork since about 1989, and since about 2010 it costs £3.49p blu-tooth adapter + £0.69p torque pro to at least keep an eye on stuff, also with the free "track plug" in you can see all the dials and record the road in front. (need to pro version to see vacuum and download plug-ins - I still use the torque lite version to clear faults as it is quicker than the pro version to start up and clear faults eg 10 seconds instead of 20 seconds)

I actually have two blu-tooth adapters one is my original ELM-327 one and a newer one the latest one is about 2cms, instead of 6cm. I am a bit annoyed my sat nav double din dvd player thing doesn't have an android OS to connect to Torque Pro all the time.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

patriotk11 said:


> No codes and no boost leaks


wow... no codes - whatsoever? that is a surprise being that the ECU stores all codes - even if a battery negative lead is disconnected for a few seconds 2 years ago it will store a "Fuse 30 voltage too low error" <-- or similar - unless someone clears the faults?

so next thing is to do a log? please upload it so we can have a look.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Here is the pic showing no codes unless I'm reading it wrong I guess?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

That is certainly no codes for those 2 controllers?

Were they erased then your car driven then rescanned? Not that it matters but about 20 controllers were scanned as part of the autoscan above. But they include things like the stereo and alarm etc.

Log the car  
Rpm, maf, desired boast, actual boost, afr, injection ms


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I've been away from the car for a bit and now back on it. I'm fitting a new turbo so I took my second hand one off and there is small amounts of end float but that's about it no oil or dirt or obvious problems. Did think it was strange that the exhaust end seemed to have a light colour to it, almost like a spark plug gets when it's run lean. I'll post a pic up later but strange.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Coolant?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Speaking of coolant. Fitted the new turbo yesterday but when I started it the coolant line on top it leaking lots, so I'm worried I cross threaded it grrrrr


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Turbo out again but to find the pipes don't appear to have been leaking but letting water in to the exhaust part


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

See pics


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

You must enough turbos to be able to build one that works by now.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

It would appear I have 3. What would cause water to go in to there?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Second-hand junk, don't worry I have a selection of turbos etc etc after doing stuff on the cheap, it invariably costs more. The CHRA must be cracked, maybe you overtighted the coolant or oil feed pipe. You can at least take it apart.

At least you're getting good at getting a turbo out now, it really does only take 40mins after a few goes.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I'm fast getting it out bit slower going in. 
Which bit can I take apart and replace?
Original had blown oil seals
Second hand has some end float
Chinese New is leaking

If I take the pipes out should I be able to see a crack?


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Why not replace the oil seals on the original ? for the time you have spent so far you could have refurbed the first one. plenty of how to's on yt if your unsure.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

This kit suffice?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391484899265


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## LesRSV (Jul 5, 2017)

Just a word of caution, it's fairly easy to rebuild the turbo with that kit but as the turbo can spin at such high speed (over 100,000 rpm)it might be best to have it balanced afterwards. [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I'll need to find someone to balance it.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Or just buy a new CHRA. Send photos of the leaks and return the Chinese one.

You'll need a puller to get the CHRA split from the compressor housing. Its only held on by sealant.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

To be fair the suppliers are sending me a replacement Chinese unit... Worth a go for free.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If you still have the knackered Chinese one remove the actuator and do the same on the stock one. If the waste gate is smaller on the Chinese one get some carbide drill bits and widen it otherwise you will get boosting issues (boost creep) also make sure the hot side properly fits the gasket, as mine had been created with the gasket upside down.

I ran my ported Chinese turbo for a couple of weeks at 25psi, 0.85 Lambda and over 900 degrees EGT without any issues, whilst my turbo-rebuilds hybrid CHRA was being analysed / repaired. It was great fun.

But like I said the waste gate and hot side needed opening up.

Examples

Stock penny waste gate









Chinese penny waste gate









Issues with hot side alignment


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I'll have a look. I hadn't really considered they wouldn't line up. So did you just port it all back in line with the gaskets?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah opened up the waste gate and hotside, yours might be okay. I originally bought a cheap Chinese turbo as I wanted the hotside for my hybrid CHRA as my stock one had cracked.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Looks a tidy job. I'll definitely lookout for that


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

New turbo arrived checked and fitted. However I think a better turbo but still no better. It pulls ok but seems to big down. It's like it wants to go but cant


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

First things first... Is there anything wrong like water disappearing and stuff like that?

What's in the logs?


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

No water loss and no dramatic oil loss that I've noticed although she's not been driven much.

I'm not sure how to log faults, I can run live data whilst driving but not sure what I'm looking for


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

I tried driving with the wastegate unplugged but no difference. Then plugged it in and unplugged the n75 but again no difference :-(


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

you are essentially modifying your car so you need to start logging data - otherwise no one will have any ideas and you will replace everything costing a fortune when it might be a simple issue.

Get a Blue KKL lead from ebay for about £5 (might be more difficult now due to china shutting down)

and install Visual ME7Logger on a laptop - you will need to follow some instructions to set this up. I essentially use it every time I do anything with my car. it gives you a massive amount of data. from fuel, air, throttle plate, desired boost, actual boost, timing, maf readings, air temp, exhaust temp,

example from a few days ago when I was testing a MAP on 97RON instead of 99RON.










View attachment AET_YELL_DECAT_8.csv


and you can also install ECUPlot which gives a graphical representation of the files created










both these tools are free (you only need a VCDS Lite KKL Cable) you can also install VCDSLite for free to look at faults, Several people on here have installed ME7Logger but I installed it a slightly different way where I had already read the ECU File because I do my own mapping on my TT.

If you have Android Torque you can buy Android Torque Pro which allows you to create CSVs of Log Files they are pretty poor (a handful of sensors and only 2 or 3 samples a second) but better than nothing.

best of luck


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Decided to drop it at a German car specialist .... Bit cheating but want to enjoy her now. See what they come back with


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Cool... Let us know the response. Surprised you didn't pay for an expert to remap it.. That would have started with a health check to find your issues, and if unable you sort on the day, sent away with instructions of what to fix.

None of that is cheating, you have essentially 10 pages of the same issue over 4 months.

I bet you can remove and replace a k04 quicker than the garage though


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Finally got a call today. The specialist man says everything seems pretty good, thinks its the turbo...

Ffs lol, I must be the unluckiest person in the turbo world


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

buy cheap but 4 times :|

you could have just got an OEM CHRA for 220 quid or so from B5 - I made a couple of costly mistakes too but got away with them - just cost me time, but due to lack of experience I may have totally my £1K turbo instead of a Hybrid CHRA

it'll all work out in the end.


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

So an update......
I took her for an mot still no power but with improvements on everything I've done. She feels better and better but no power. Failed the mot and driving away just briefly she pulled with a glimour of hope so I got back and have done the major faults, leaving advisories for now as the majors were hard enough. I also ordered yet another n75 valve, took her for a run to test the mot bits and we have POWERRRRRRRRRR.

So just hope she goes through the retest Friday fingers crossed and yay


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Maybe your brakes were binding


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## patriotk11 (Oct 21, 2017)

Doubt it there wasn't any left to bind hahahaha


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