# Glass Break Sensor -G304- Fault Code 01403



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

Hi,I know this question has been asked about 5 years ago on the forum but still nobody was able to figure it out. While doing a regular VCDS scan I encountered this error:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8J0-959-433.lbl
Part No: 8J0 959 433 B
Component: KSG H11 0080 
Coding: 1890300201182D2D0F0FC88A0067
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 12345
VCID: 356147F15C90E5E92C-8060

Subsystem 1 - Component: Sounder n.mounted 
Subsystem 2 - Component: NGS n.mounted 
Subsystem 3 - Component: IRUE n.mounted 

1 Fault Found:
01403 - Glass-Break Sensors; Rear
011 - Open Circuit

The Audi dealership was not able to fix the problem, they didn't even know where the sensor is located, so I am wondering if anyone finally managed to find the location of the sensor (in other Audis it is shown blow the plastic trim of the boot under the back window but I don't know if it applies to the TT), I also read that it can be coded out but I didn't find it on VCDS, maybe it can be bypassed by soldering the wires of the sensor to close the circuit but that requires knowing the location of the sensor . Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

It is possible this is an old fault that was never cleared. Have you tried clearing all DTCs and running another fault scan to see if it shows up again?

Here's the wiring diagram, the Rear Window Glass Breakage Module is *G304*. The photo below is from an Audi A7 showing their rear break glass sensor. From the *article* where I found this, _"The contact for the break glass sensor and one of the contacts had slightly come away. Which did explain why the alarm was only going off sometimes as it was making contact some of the time." _

There's also an older post in this forum - *here*. "VCDS is showing a code 8 on the measuring blocks for the alarm, which points towards the rear window break sensor. 
From what I have read on the sensor it's self, its a non replaceable part, the whole back window needs replaced."

Sounds like this will require removing the trim around the rear window, and then finding and inspecting this connection. Based on the photo of the inside of a used hatch from eBay, it looks like the circled connector is similar to the A7 and might be the location of the G304...?? 

If you can't repair it, you may be able to code it out using VCDS.









*Glass Break Connector and sensor on Audi A7 -*









*Location of the Glass Break Sensor on the Audi TT (8J) -*


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> It is possible this is an old fault that was never cleared. Have you tried clearing all DTCs and running another fault scan to see if it shows up again?


Yes, I cleared it about 10 times over a few days and also tried it after disconnecting the battery thinking it could reset everything but nothing, even the dealership tried to erase it but it didn't work, so I was thinking a wire could be corroded but I don't know the wiring diagram of it to test that out.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

i also have this error and have just learned to leave it. As youv'e found there's nothing in the central electrics or central convenience modules that allow this to be coded out (if it's there it's not listed/in the label file) and i was never able to find the sensor as stated by SJP nor join any connections to bridge the "broken sensor" (and my car has been ripped apart more than you can imagine).

I've even checked my CCM and there's no wire in the pin it says the sensor should be. 

I _think _the key is to compare coding of 46 central conv. modules, with cars of the same spec (which will prety much be all TT 8J's of the same country and trim level) and compare ones with the error and ones without the error. 
Either that or wire up T6g/4 to ground.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> i also have this error and have just learned to leave it. As youv'e found there's nothing in the central electrics or central convenience modules that allow this to be coded out (if it's there it's not listed/in the label file) and i was never able to find the sensor as stated by SJP nor join any connections to bridge the "broken sensor" (and my car has been ripped apart more than you can imagine).
> 
> I've even checked my CCM and there's no wire in the pin it says the sensor should be.
> 
> ...


I know it doesn't affect anything and can leave it as is, but I would like to reinstall a siren as the one on the car has been taken out by the previous owner (and maybe the wiring too which is horrible to think about as I can't even find any info on them) and I think this error will cause the alarm to go off non stop.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> i also have this error and have just learned to leave it. As youv'e found there's nothing in the central electrics or central convenience modules that allow this to be coded out (if it's there it's not listed/in the label file) and i was never able to find the sensor as stated by SJP nor join any connections to bridge the "broken sensor" (and my car has been ripped apart more than you can imagine).
> 
> I've even checked my CCM and there's no wire in the pin it says the sensor should be.
> 
> ...


Also could you tell me more about T6g/4 as I've never heard of it?

My bad didn't see that Swiss posted a diagram above.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

dynamicmenace2013 said:


> T6g/4


This is just the reference to the plug and pinout as per SJP's wiring diagram. So:


at module J363 is the T6g/4 (basically a plug with 6 pin slots)
in location 4 should be a thin blue wire
this connects into an 8 pin plug at location 5
which then continues onto the glass break sensor G304
to GND


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> This is just the reference to the plug and pinout as per SJP's wiring diagram. So:
> 
> 
> at module J363 is the T6g/4 (basically a plug with 6 pin slots)
> ...


Oh ok, was confused at first but now I understand it. Will have a look in the morning to see what can be done and I'll be back with news. Thanks a lot!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The module is behind the boot trim on the fuel flap side. you'll see a cradle just behind the rear light


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> The module is behind the boot trim on the fuel flap side. you'll see a cradle just behind the rear light


Ok so good news and bad news: the good news is I managed to find the CCM, the bad news is I'm missing the whole 6 pin connector, the only ones I have are the 2 18 pin connectors and a 8 one. The next step I guess is to open up the hatch trim but beside the 2 torx screws in the hatch handle are the any other screws or should I just pull down on the whole trim? The only info I could dig up are for the 8N ones and I'm not sure they are the same.

NVM I'm sorry I found a how to in this tread: Upper boot lid trim - removal


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

As shown below, you can make out the eight clip locations for the plastic trim that covers the spoiler electrics. There's two torx in the grab handle, and the cover for the latch which has to come off first. For the Roadster cover, I found it easier to start with the outer most corner and work across, then go for the upper clips. You can see it *here*.

This *PDF *will walk you through the process for a Coupe which is basically identical to the Roadster.

Rather than using a screw driver, which can scratch the paint and marr the plastic, a nylon pry bar is a much better tool for this job. You can get an assortment for cheap off Amazon.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> As shown below, you can make out the eight clip locations for the plastic trim that covers the spoiler electrics. There's two torx in the grab handle, and the cover for the latch which has to come off first. For the Roadster cover, I found it easier to start with the outer most corner and work across, then go for the upper clips. You can see it *here*.
> 
> This *PDF *will walk you through the process for a Coupe which is basically identical to the Roadster.
> 
> Rather than using a screw driver, which can scratch the paint and marr the plastic, a nylon pry bar is a much better tool for this job. You can get an assortment for cheap off Amazon.


Thanks for the quick response Swiss, so here's the update: I managed to remove the trim and surprise surprise.. the sensor is missing , along with the whole wiring I presume since there was no connector even at the CCM, all that is left are 2 little wires where I presume the sensor would have connected to.
















It seems like all hope is lost. Although I have an idea but I'm not sure it works: if I don't a circuit anymore, could I possibly connect the T6g/4 pin directly to GND? (like remove a connector from a housing and hooking it to the 4th pin in T6g then trough a wire to a GND lead) If it is possible could you tell me which one is the correct T6g connector as both are 6 pin connectors?


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

I found this listed on the internet, could the T6g/4 pin be the in the second connector from bottom to top because it also corresponds to the 4th position on the connector?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you need a reference, you can use the *Workshop Manual*, *2.2 Wiring Diagrams & Component Locations (A005TT20021).*

As noted in the previous wiring diagram, *G304* connects to *T6g4* which is the *CSCCM* location *E* pin *4* which, based on the picture you posted, is not currently occupied unless there's a missing connector tucked away somewhere.

It could be the previous owner had an intermittent problem with the Sensor and opted to cut off the leads to prevent the alarm from going off intermittently. But from the wiring diagram, it seems like a pretty straight forward repair; one lead to ground *(98)*, the other to *T6g4*. However you could end up with the same problem the previous owner was trying to avoid if the interface between the glass and sensor has failed.

The *J393* CSCCM is a generic component for multiple vehicles and not specific to the Mk2 8J. Note the words "_MAX 4 tuere_r" which is German for maximum four door.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> It could be the previous owner had an intermittent problem with the Sensor and opted to cut off the leads to prevent the alarm from going off intermittently. But from the wiring diagram, it seems like a pretty straight forward repair; one lead to ground *(98)*, the other to *T6g4*. However you could end up with the same problem the previous owner was trying to avoid if the interface between the glass and sensor has failed.


Most likely the owner had a problem as you said as the whole anti-theft system is gone, siren, housing, wire harnesses, and everything is deactivated in VCDS, and that is the exact reason I wanted to close the circuit, I want to reinstall the siren and will have to buy everything again and didn't want the siren to go off every second. On the other hand I just connected T6g/4 to a GND screw at the bottom of the trunk and then did a quick VCDS scan and the error is gone so it worked  Thanks again Swiss and IPG3.6 for everything and I hope this helps everyone who has the issue to do a quick fix because you cannot disable it from VCDS as some have said.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Glad this worked out. 

I would think since the G304 is toast, to just run a wire from T6g pin-4 straight to ground at the CSCCM should suffice. The alarm just needs to see a closed circuit. Although there may be a resistance factor involved...??? It might be possible to look through the VCDS measuring block file and see if there's any expected values you need to worry about.

Just a heads up when you buy your new alarm; you might as well buy a new one because they all have a rechargeable Ni-MH batter pack inside and the batteries only good for about 8-years. So there's no point buying one for your model year as it will be on it's last legs.

If you do opt for a used one, try to find the newest one you can. You can read more about the alarm *here*.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Glad this worked out. Just a heads up when you buy your new siren; you might as well buy a new one because they all have a rechargeable Ni-MH batter pack inside. The batteries only good for about 8-years, so there's no point buying one for your model year as it will be on it's last legs.
> 
> If you do opt for a used one, try to find the newest one you can. You can read more about the alarm *here*.


Thanks, I followed that article before this quest to close the circuit to kind of prepare myself for the job and what it entails and knew the old ones on eBay are all most likely dead or have damaged PCBs from the batteries leaking. The only thing that concerns me is the wiring harness as I can't find anything on them not even on 7zap only the connector housing.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *dynamicmenace* - If you go into the Ross Tech files on your computer, you can see the codes available for the alarm system. Simply go into the folder for Ross-Tech -->VCDS-->Labels-->8J0-959-433. This is where you'll find the VAG-COM Lable File for Component: J393 - Comfort System (#46). It's just a text file so you can view it with Notepad. I've attached a re-named file which you can download.








Next time you have your VDCS plugged into your TT, see if you can get into the measurement blocks for Address 46, block 020. Per the comment in the older post, I believe this is the section *kerwinrobertson* was referring to. It may still be possible to code out #8 so you don't have to hassle with rewiring for G304.









020,0,Alarm Sources
; 0 = Drivers Door
; 1 = Passenger Door
; 2 = Rear Left Door
; 3 = Rear Right Door
; 4 = Rear Lid
; 5 = Engine Hood
; 6 = Rear Window Latch
; 7 = Trailer
; * 8 = Rear Window Broken*
; 9 = Ignition
; 10 = Interior Monitoring
; 11 = Inclination Sensor
; 12 = Intelligent Siren
; 13 = Central Electronics Control Module
; 14 = Door Control Module Drivers Door
; 15 = Door Control Module Passenger Door
; 16 = Door Control Module Rear Left Door
; 17 = Door Control Module Rear Right Door
; 18 = Gateway Control Module
; 19 = Power-On-Reset (POR) Alarm (after Terminal 30 Reset an unintended Alarm is possible)
; 255 = No Alarm


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*EDIT & UPDATE* - Here's clarification on the alarm measurement block fields. Thanks for Uwe Ross at Ross Tech.   

Thee measurement blocks Alarm Source fields are not settings, but codes for what triggered the alarm. If you see *255*, that doesn't mean you don't have an alarm, it means that the alarm has not been triggered. In the image below the cause for the alarm to go off was *10 = Interior Monitoring*. 

Therefore if you're getting *Glass Break Sensor -G304- Fault Code 01403*, check the Measurement Block and you should have *8 = Rear Window Broken.*

Likewise, if some other number appears, the value in the Measurement Block Field is pointing to the sensor location or module that caused the alarm to go off.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *dynamicmenace* - Take a look at the files below, the one on the left is the text file from block 20. On the right are the same measurement blocks put into an Excel file. You'll notice for my Roadster, I only have "Count 10" in all four fields. Check your Coupe and see what you find.
> 
> View attachment 481154


Here's my result, I didn't know how to add them in excel so it's just text file.. 
Address 46: Central Conv. (8J0 959 433 B)

20:08:16 Group 001: Door Contact Switches
Door Closed Driver Door Door Contact (F2)
Door Closed Passenger Door Door Contact (F3)
Not Installed Rear Left Door Door Contact (F10)
Not Installed Rear Right Door Door Contact (F11)

20:08:16 Group 002: Central Locking Units
Unlocked Driver Door Status (F220)
Unlocked Passenger Door Status (F221)
Not Installed Rear Left Door Status (F222)
Not Installed Rear Right Door Status (F223)

20:08:16 Group 003: Key Switches && Interior Lock Buttons
Not Oper. Driver Door Key Switch
Not Oper. Passenger Door Key Switch
Not Installed Driver Door Lock Butt. (E308)
Not Installed Passenger Door Lock Butt. (E308)

20:08:27 Group 004: Rear Lid
Not Oper. Rear Lid Key Switch
Not Oper. Rear Lid Handle Unlock Sw. (E234)
Closed Rear Lid Lock Unit (F256) Main Latch
Activated Rear Lid Lock Unit (F256) Pre-Latch

20:08:27 Group 005: Power Supply
11.70 V Voltage (Terminal 30)
1 1 Voltage Status 
Term 15 On Terminal 15 Status
Activated S-Contact Status

20:08:27 Group 006
0.0 km/h Vehicle Speed 
No Crash Signal 
No Request to Open Tank Lid
N/A 

20:08:34 Group 007
Yes Enabling Sunroof 
Not Oper. Sunroof Control 
Not Installed Comfort Function 
No Window Break Detection

20:08:34 Group 008
Not Installed 
Not Installed 
OFF 
0.0°/s Turn Rate 

20:08:34 Group 009
No Central Locking Thermal Protection
Closed Signal: Doors not Closed
N/A 
N/A 

20:08:41 Group 010: Remote Control
0 Remote Control Key Number
0 0 0 0 Remote Control Buttons
Remote Control Encryption
1 1 0 0 Remote Control Memory Position

20:08:41 Group 011: Immobilizer
no Value Fixed Code 
no Value Code in Catch Area
no Value Algorithm 
N/A 

20:08:41 Group 012
Yes Immobilizer Key Recognition
Not Oper. Rear Lid Remote Lock Sw. (E233)
Yes Rear Lid Handle Unlock Sw. (E234)
Closed Front Hood Switch (F266)

20:08:48 Group 013
Not Installed Telematics 
Not Installed Interior Monitoring Sensor (G273)
Not Installed 
N/A 

20:08:48 Group 014: Interior Monitoring Sensor (G273)
Not Installed Interior Monitoring Status
Not Installed Interior Monitoring Alarm Recognized
Not Installed Interior Monitoring Output Active
Not Installed Interior Monitoring Output Active

20:08:48 Group 015: Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384)
Not Installed Incl. Sensor (G384) Status
Not Installed Incl. Sensor (G384) Alarm Recognized
Not Installed Incl. Sensor (G384) Output Active
Not Installed Incl. Sensor (G384) Indic. Lamp (K188)

20:08:55 Group 016: Alarm Horn (H12)
Not Installed Alarm Horn (H12) Status
Not Installed Alarm Horn (H12) Alarm Recognized
Not Installed Alarm Horn (H12) Output Active
N/A 

20:08:55 Group 017: Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384)
Not Installed X-Reference Angle
Not Installed Current X-Delta Angle
Not Installed Y-Reference Angle
Not Installed Current Y-Delta Angle

20:08:55 Group 018: Alarm Horn (H12) Trigger
Not Installed 1st Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed 2nd Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed 3rd Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed Alarm Trigger Counter

20:09:30 Group 019: Interior Monitoring Sensor (G273) Trigger
Not Installed 1st Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed 2nd Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed 3rd Alarm Trigger 
Not Installed 4th Alarm Trigger 

20:09:30 Group 020: Alarm Sources
5 1st Alarm Source 
255 2nd Alarm Source 
255 3rd Alarm Source 
255 4th Alarm Source 

Apparently the previous owner left jut the hood sensor intact which is weird because last week the dealership checked the alarm system and only the hazard lights came on (because I had no siren) but it was as a result of opening the driver's door not the bonnet.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey guys great discussion and well done for swift going in and testing out the theory @dynamicmenace2013 ! Glad the result is what we needed. 

@SwissJetPilot when I'm back with the car I'll try this coding and fingers crossed it works! I swear I don't remember seeing anything about glass break when in the module. 

PS. This error does not trigger the alarm. The two wires on the rear window were like that on my car too @dynamicmenace2013 + originally without the alarm module. I've since installed the alarm module and it works brilliantly - I still have the error but the alarm does not randomly go off with this error persisting.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> PS. This error does not trigger the alarm. The two wires on the rear window were like that on my car too @dynamicmenace2013 + originally without the alarm module. I've since installed the alarm module and it works brilliantly - I still have the error but the alarm does not randomly go off with this error persisting.


Didn't know that, I assumed since it was removed that this was the reason as most forums threads about the rear window sensor error complain about their siren going of intermittently. As a side note, I read your part about installing the alarm module and have a few questions:
1. The wire from the siren that goes to the CCM goes in the T6g/6 pin?
2. Did you have to add anything else besides the siren such as G273 or G384...? As you can see in my previous post, in address 46 block 020 the only alarm signal I seem to get is from the engine hood, with no signal from the doors or anything else and I'm wondering if there are additional wires required.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

For Block 020 I can understand value 255 for fields 2-4, but not value 5 for field 1...?? 

20:09:30 Group 020: Alarm Sources
Field 1: *5* 1st Alarm Source (*5* = Engine Hood)
Field 2: 255 2nd Alarm Source (255= no alarm)
Field 3: 255 3rd Alarm Source (255= no alarm)
Field 4: 255 4th Alarm Source (255= no alarm)

If you change field 1 to 255, it would be interesting to know if you can clear the fault and if it comes up again.

Here's what I have from my notes on Address 46, Byte 12 & 13. Would be interesting to see how yours is set up. 

If you un-tick Bit 1 & 2, and tick Bit 0, would you still get the fault?









This one's just for the siren. I would imagine your Bits 4-6 are un-ticked and Bit 7 is ticked.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Also, check Address 46 Adaptation drop down menu. I'm not sure if the one I have is the complete list.
It would be interesting to see what's under Coding II-11 and Coding - 07 and whether or not these give you access to any changes.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

@*SwissJetPilot*
Ok so I'm back from the car, it's taking a while because it's -5 degrees outside and my hands are freezing in place, so here are my byte 12, 13:


















I played around with the bytes as you said but nothing changed. My adaptation menu is like this:










Unfortunately I can't access Coding II because it requires a code and I'm not sure where to get it and I'm not sure how to change the values in the measuring block's field from 5 to 255.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

dynamicmenace2013 said:


> 1. The wire from the siren that goes to the CCM goes in the T6g/6 pin?


yea you're on the money there. here's the WD for pre facelift cars











dynamicmenace2013 said:


> 2. Did you have to add anything else besides the siren such as G273 or G384...?


I've just added only the siren. I have the ultrasonic sensor (to go into the overhead lights) to fit but have yet to do it and still trying to source the correct combo inclination sensor (G384) / alarm on-off button (G578)


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> For Block 020 I can understand value 255 for fields 2-4, but not value 5 for field 1...??
> 
> 20:09:30 Group 020: Alarm Sources
> Field 1: *5* 1st Alarm Source (*5* = Engine Hood)
> ...


See what i mean - nothing obvious that points to the glass break sensor coding option


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *dynamicmenace* - Yeah, that's a wee bit chilly!  It's been hovering just above zero here too. Thanks for confirming.

If you're up for it, and it's not too cold outside tomorrow, perhaps you can go into the Measurement Block 020 and see if you can change the alarm source in field 1 from 5 to 255. It would be interesting to know if you can clear the fault and see if it comes up again after you make the change. Unfortunately I don't have my VCDS with me, only my OBDeleven. 

*Group 020: Alarm Sources*
Field 1: *5* 1st Alarm Source (*5* = Engine Hood)
Field 2: 255 2nd Alarm Source (255= no alarm)
Field 3: 255 3rd Alarm Source (255= no alarm)
Field 4: 255 4th Alarm Source (255= no alarm)

@ *IPG3.6* - Can you post a screen shot of your Measurement Block 020? I wonder if *8 = Rear Window Broken* has to be included in one of the Alarm Source fields??


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

@SwissJetPilot I'll definitely check it out tomorrow but I have no clue on how to actually change said value as I don't see any option to change it. 

@IPG3.6 So just by installing the siren it will automatically detect if any doors are open? Even though they don't show up on the measuring block?
Also, @IPG3.6, I saw you already installed the T6g connector on your new CCM, why not hook that T6g/4 pin to a ground point to remove the error like I tried, I don't think a resistance is necessary as everything seems fine and not giving any error on scans, or do you have the actual G304 sensor and want to make it work?


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

@SwissJetPilot, I looked over the schematics of the anti-theft one more time and thought, what if the 1st alarm source (5) could be getting it's signal from the microswitch (i.e. 10) as it must be somehow connected to either the CCM or ECU maybe, otherwise it wouldn't make any sense to have it shown in the anti-theft diagrams


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *dynamicmenace - *Possibly. I'll look through the wiring diagram and find where -F266- Front Hood Switch fits into the alarm schematic.

I believe any measurement block field that has a variable range can be changed. In this case, any field with "Alarm Source". But maybe this can only be done under Adaptation.









For example, with the Reverse Camera installation, in order for the head unit to recognize the camera, the value can be changed as shown below. I would think one of the fields under Adaptation would have this feature for setting the Alarm Source. It might require going through each of the Adaptation options and seeing what's there.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I would think one of the fields under Adaptation would have this feature for setting the Alarm Source.


I did look under there but there are no channels that would change the alarm source. I'm stating to believe that the Alarm Source might be a representation of the last alarms that occurred? I read something here on the Ross-Tech site here https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/6741/ and I'm going to check the 09: Cent. Elect, measuring block 020 - 023 to see if maybe I can change something there.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I'll look through the wiring diagram and find where -F266- Front Hood Switch fits into the alarm schematic.




















F266 seems to connect to J519 - Vehicle electrical system control module, which also connects to G304? and the siren?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *IPG3.6* - Can you post a screen shot of your Measurement Block 020? I wonder if *8 = Rear Window Broken* has to be included in one of the Alarm Source fields??


Might have to wait a few weeks as I'm a few 100 km away from my car at the moment LOL



dynamicmenace2013 said:


> why not hook that T6g/4 pin to a ground point to remove the error like I tried


Yeah I will do this if a coding solution isn't found. I do not have that sensor and also tried to work with those "tails" on the rear window. I broke them off In the end. Haha 

I reckon signals would be going over comfort CANbus from doors over to CECM/BCM. Info could be in the SSP?


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> I reckon signals would be going over comfort CANbus from doors over to CECM/BCM. Info could be in the SSP?


Only one way to figure that out , we'll see what happens when I install the siren


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *dynamicmenace -* I've got a few of the VCDS Addresses mapped out with screen shots, including Cent.Elect - 09. You can find them *here*.

Be careful with the wiring diagrams; the black and white ones are 2008 and the colored illustrations are 2011 -


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

These diagrams, should help too. The bottom illustration is from *SSP382* which you can find *here*.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> I've got a few of the VCDS Addresses mapped out with screen shots


Oh ok, so from what I can see it's a no go then.. But I still believe the engine hood field represents the microswitch which connects to the J519 and then to the CCM somehow 



SwissJetPilot said:


> These diagrams, should help too.


Ah, didn't notice the difference at the bottom of the page, thanks a lot, so then, I think I have everything laid out for the whole anti-theft system wiring and parts, but correct me if I'm wrong:
1.Siren (H12) has 3 wires:

Goes to T6g/6
GND
Fuse 5 in engine fuse box (as said by @IPG3.6 in his guide)
2.Anti-Theft Alarm System Sensor (G578: G273 + G384) for which I'll have to buy 8J0951177 and hope it matches my dome lights (I seem to find it only overseas, I wonder if 8K0951177 is compatible) and have to connect it:

Goes to T6g/6 (so I'll have to splice and combine the 2 wires?)
GND
The same fuse as the siren? (as shown in the manual at pg. 503)
3. Alarm System -Off- Switch (E217) part no. 4f0962109 which connects:

Goes to T32f/10 on J386
GND?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Across the bottom of each wiring diagram is a numbered line called the track line with corresponding track numbers. As you go through the wiring diagram, the track numbers increase from left to right and from one page to the next. Each track number references what's is going on directly above it. In a wiring diagram, you may find the wire ends in a numbered box - this is a reference to a track number which is often on another page, but sometimes on the same page depending on what other features are in the diagram. This convention of track numbers defines where one end of a wire ends and where it continues.

For example, let's start with *H12* connection *2/31* shown below -

Follow the wire down and you'll find the number *22* in a box [22]. If you look directly below *[22]*, you'll see it's situated on track number *158*. If we go back through the wiring diagram and find the page where track *22* is located, we find *[158]* again and see that it terminates at *(388)* which is a common ground connection.










For *H12* connection *3*, you'll find *[156]* which is already on track *156*. Follow the red dashed arrow up and you'll find *[156] *continues on the other side of the grey bar for *J393* where it terminates at *ST1 *connection* 5a*.

And finally, for *H12* connection *1*, follow it straight up to *T6g/6* located on *J393*.

Now take a look at *G578* connection *T4p/4*. This references track *[157]*. If we look back down at the track line, find *157* and go up, we find *[163] *which terminates at *ST1 *connection *5a* together with the wire from *H12* connection *3*.

The rest you should be able to sort out now that you understand how track numbers and track number references work.  If you want a really good reference with a lot more detail, please read through *SSP 873003 How to Read Wiring Diagrams* which you can download *here*.

*Track number references for H12 and G578 -*


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

And as you may have already discovered with the PDF viewer, you can use the search function to find a specific item; (e.g. "Alarm Horn" or just "Alarm") in the wiring diagram. Use the forward / backward arrows and it will go through the entire PDF and highlight all references it finds in light blue.

You can even search for a connection point like "T4p/2". If T4p/2 doesn't get a hit then it may not be used, in which case limit the search to "T4p" to find all the connection points that may be available to/from a connector at any module you're interested in.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> The rest you should be able to sort out now that you understand how track numbers and track number references work.


You sir are a life saver, I downloaded the manual on how to read DW and will compile everything and post it for anyone who needs it so they won't have to search on different pages to complete a circuit.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Happy to help!  Here's the *G578* module located in the overhead light from *SSP382. *You'll find that the SSPs really help clarify the *Workshop Manuals* in many cases.

Anything you can contribute about how to install an OEM alarm system would be greatly appreciated. Just be aware that the forum only allows 10 picture attachment per thread, so if you have to go over that, just start a new thread. Better more pictures than not enough.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just one other point - you may want to get some of these components directly from Audi. Many Forum members have found that Audi prices are sometimes less than resellers on eBay and Amazon. 

There have been numerous comments where the part number or revision they ordered turned out to be not what they received especially with parts that have been obviously salvaged off wrecked vehicles. So really pay attention if you get parts from sources other than Audi.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Happy to help!  Here's the *G578* module located in the overhead light from *SSP382. *You'll find that the SSPs really help clarify the *Workshop Manuals* in many cases.
> 
> Anything you can contribute about how to install an OEM alarm system would be greatly appreciated. Just be aware that the forum only allows 10 picture attachment per thread, so if you have to go over that, just start a new thread. Better more pictures than not enough.
> View attachment 481220


I have that module G578 to retro fit (got it from a golf mk6).

As usual a video guide will be made for it


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *IPG3.6* - Of course you did and of course you will! You freekin' rock dude!


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> I have that module G578 to retro fit


@IPG3.6 Is it's number part 8J0951177?
@SwissJetPilot I'm also going to write a full retrofit guide for the alarm system and post it in another post so it's not buried under the G304 error thread with all the steps on how to install the siren, g578 and the button for the tow away in hope this helps.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Good idea!  An Alarm System Retrofit Guide would be a perfect addition to the Knowledge Base.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

dynamicmenace2013 said:


> @IPG3.6 Is it's number part 8J0951177?


Yeah that's the one. Looks like sellers think that part number is for the whole interior light unit. LoL


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah that's the one. Looks like sellers think that part number is for the whole interior light unit. LoL


Yeah it's weird though, because some units have 2 wires (1 microphone and 1 sensor), and some have 4 (2 microphones, 2 ultrasonic sensors), how many do you have on yours?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Check that the part number and *year* is correct for your TT. Just like the wiring diagram, things changed from 2011.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Check that the part number and *year* is correct for your TT. Just like the wiring diagram, things changed from 2011.


Ok figured it put, so it needs all 4 wires, the guide is coming along well, all that is left is buying the parts and doing it myself . One last question, in the WD of the System -Off- Switch (E217), the ground wire of the switch can be connected directly to (205)? because it looks like all the wires are connected somehow and I'm not sure if I understand it correctly


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*205* and *R52* highlighted below - 









*E183* and *E217* are the dual switch P/N *4F0962109 *which is mounted in the plastic trim at the end of the door as shown below. According to the WD, it's a 6-pin, and the photo of the switch socket verifies that it only has 6-pins. 

The image for removing the switch comes from Workshop Manual *2.1 Electrical System (A005TT01320)* in the *Knowledge Base* with other Workshop Manuals which you can quickly download *here*.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

@SwissJetPilot oh  I’m stupid, failed to notice it was the whole switch assembly


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Easy oversight.  I had to dig a bit myself to figure it out too since the WD isn't very helpful in this regards. It's no wonder the Audi Tech's don't know as much as they should considering it takes a WD, and then a reference to another Workshop Manual and even an SSP to figure it all out. Fortunately, we have pretty much all of them in the KB.

FYI - since you're going to make this harness from scratch, you'll probably want to order the connectors and pins from Audi along with a crimping and pinning tool if you don't already have them. I'd recommend you avoid plastic electrical tape, and go for the automotive cloth electrical tape as it holds better and won't unwrap over time like plastic tape tends to do.

You can also research the connectors on *7zap* but it might just be easier to ask Audi.


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Easy oversight.  I had to dig a bit myself to figure it out too since the WD isn't very helpful in this regards. It's no wonder the Audi Tech's don't know as much as they should considering it takes a WD, and then a reference to another Workshop Manual and even an SSP to figure it all out. Fortunately, we have pretty much all of them in the KB.
> 
> FYI - since you're going to make this harness from scratch, you'll probably want to order the connectors and pins from Audi along with a crimping and pinning tool if you don't already have them. I'd recommend you avoid plastic electrical tape, and go for the automotive cloth electrical tape as it holds better and won't unwrap over time like plastic tape tends to do.
> 
> You can also research the connectors on *7zap* but it might just be easier to ask Audi.


Yeah I couldn’t find the connectors there, so I’m going to Audi on Tuesday to buy al of the connectors and the pieces and have them give me the code for all of them.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

These connector and pin catalogs might come in handy -


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

@SwissJetPilot I'll have a read and cross reference it with 7zap and the other manuals and see what I can find, meanwhile I was so excited about the idea of the OEM alarm guide that I worked the whole day and finished it already, all that is left is to add the connector's number and do it myself . Do you thing I should post the guide and update it as I go or finish the whole thing before and post it after?


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *dynamicmenace* - It might be interesting if you post it as you go along. This way you might get additional support and helpful comments, or questions you might not have considered. Call it "My Audi TT 8J Alarm System Retrofit Project" or something like that.

Once it's all done, I will create a reference page in the Knowledge Base pointing to your project post.
A complete parts list would be helpful so everyone knows exactly what parts (and special tools) are required.

Questions -
1.) Have you come up with a wiring diagram specific to the harness you're building?
2.) Are you going to buy the exact same OEM color wires on the WD or do you have something else planned?
3.) Are you going to be pulling interior panels as you go or is the interior already stripped out to make wire routing easier?


----------



## dynamicmenace2013 (Jan 9, 2022)

SwissJetPilot said:


> A complete parts list would be helpful so everyone knows exactly what parts (and special tools) are required.


I quoted each component by it's code in the manual and it's part number and will do the same for the connectors once I figure them out, the tools I didn't think about but will surely add them.


SwissJetPilot said:


> 1.) Have you come up with a wiring diagram specific to the harness you're building?


Yes, I redid the diagram in Adobe Illustrator to contain only the harnesses we need.


SwissJetPilot said:


> 2.) Are you going to buy the exact same OEM color wires on the WD or do you have something else planned?


Not sure about this, will have to check with Audi on Tuesday about this to see what they have and what I can buy, but if not I'll try to use at least commonly known colors like brown/ black for ground, red for live wires and for the rest I'll define them in the diagram I made to the corresponding wire I use so as to not confuse people by my wire's coloring being different from the ones in the original diagram.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Sounds good!  FYI the wire size and color are given on the WD. And colors are German abbreviations not English; e.g. gn/ro is grün/rot (green/red) -


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hurrah! I FINALLY got rid of my glass break error by grounding the connection of T6g/4 to the common ground just beside the battery.

Building on some of the pics already in the thread.

First is removing all of the trim and [email protected] in your boot. You can see I have a long way to go in neatening up my boot space 😅 then you go ahead and pull off the right side boot trim and unplug the boot light.










Next is to pull out the CCM which is pretty easy. Just need to push on the locking tab and slide the unit out.









Now the plug you want is probably NOT going to be there. Luckily I took a plug from my engine swap Passat R36 B6 which is this plug. This is T6g. It's the only plug in the CCM with 6pins and just above the VW lettering on the CCM.









Next is identifying which is pin 4.









All I did was extend my pigtail a little so that it could reach the common ground point on the back RH corner of the chassis. I then crimped on a ring terminal and clamped it down.









Funny thing I observed is when I touched the connection to the ground point I could hear a relay like sound "click". I tested it a few times by tapping the connection on the ground point and it definitely activated something in the CCM when the wire contacted with GND.

Next was to check the error (and hope that it's gone)... this error is in the convenience module 46.
First is to go into diagnostics









Then find the convenience module 46









Then we read for faults









And finally... The result 🙌🙌🙌









One less error code!


----------

