# Oil Pan & Oil Filter Housing Drain Valves



## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/#How_it_works


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## YoungOldUn (Apr 12, 2011)

The only problem as I see it is that all valves eventually start to leak or seize up, plus the diameter of the hole in the valve is much less than the threaded sump plug hole possibly preventing sludge being removed with the oil.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

got mine from the US. Will mount it tomorrow to make oil changes easier.


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## TTOWNER. (Mar 3, 2011)

Speaking of "Oil changes" could someone pls do a HOW-TO w/pictures on what to do step-by-step toward oil changes
for the TT.

Would be appreciated. I have yet to find, out there a tutorial specific geared for the TT on this.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I will try  you will have the quick valve DYI as bonus


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

there is one here (a fellow french TT owner) if you read french 

http://www.audi-connecttion.com/t1827-t ... audi-tt-mk


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I must say their section on DIYs is pretty good.


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## TTOWNER. (Mar 3, 2011)

Hadaak,
do your version pls.  
That one is hard to grasp since it's more for 2.0l model. I have 3.2 v6

And maybe yours can be pinned in the diy section once completed, so, make sure you do it nice with lots o pics :lol:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TTOWNER. said:


> Hadaak,
> do your version pls.
> That one is hard to grasp since it's more for 2.0l model. I have 3.2 v6
> 
> And maybe yours can be pinned in the diy section once completed, so, make sure you do it nice with lots o pics :lol:


I will try but I have a 2L too :?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I did the oil change today but sorry no DYI as I had two issues : 1) I didn't have the oil filter key to change the filter and 2) I found ou that the quick valve needs the small extension as it there is not enough room to mount without the extension adaptor :evil: 
but overall it was a quick operation, as I already did it one on the TT at 15.000 km. You open the bonnet. Take off the oil cap. Put the TT on ramps or lift her up somehow. Go under her  Unscrew a dozen screws. Take off the plastic protection. Get a big pan ready under the oil plug. Unscrew the oil plug. Be carefull as oil might surprise you and you end up in a mess  . Wait a few minutes. Screw the oil plug back and do the rest in reverse order :mrgreen: 
I didn't do the oil filter so no info here.
Voilà and sorry for the brief guide  I was pissed off by the missing quick valve adaptor as I read somewhere on the net that you don't need it with the 2L TFSI.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

here is the missing adaptor :


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

after some brainstorming it looks like this quick valve is not safe enough to use on the TT as stated by the maker:

N-Series valve(with Nipple to accept hose) is not recommended for passenger cars with low ground clearance.

Using the adaptor and the nipple will make the valve protrude further from the sump and make it liable to breaking and damaging the sump if the car hits an obstable !!!!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

will look something like this :


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## Spooks (Jul 24, 2010)

IF you find the oil filter drain tool at a reasonable price let me know.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

don't get you there? which drain tool are you talking about?


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## Spooks (Jul 24, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> don't get you there? which drain tool are you talking about?


The tool that screws into the bottom of the oil filter can so you can drain the oil out before you unscrew it.
It's about £250 from VAG.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

nice one. I didn't know it exists


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

found it : it 's called oil drain adapter -T 40057


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Oil-Filter-H ... 5d299e9824


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)




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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Golf and US terminology content but some good pictures here:
http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/8#

A cheaper version of the filter drain adaptor but in plastic:
http://www.mobilfaction.com/T40057.html

Drain adaptor and filter bowl socket here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YK9L6S?tag=ustal-20


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

A cheaper version of the filter drain adaptor but in plastic:
http://www.mobilfaction.com/T40057.html

nice find. good price  will order one for next oil change.


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## Spooks (Jul 24, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> A cheaper version of the filter drain adaptor but in plastic:
> http://www.mobilfaction.com/T40057.html
> 
> nice find. good price  will order one for next oil change.


Well done! thaks for looking. I have changed my filter without one it was like the Torriecannion. (I can't spell Toricanion, a big ship that leaked a lot of oil anyway).
Would have been nice to get one from the uk, are you listening Sykes Pickavant.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

not a big issue to get it from the US 

INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING
USPS First class (10 Days) $6.00


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

VW dealer installed it for me on my 60.000 km service. here are the pics. TT is 71.000 km now so will be testing the first oil drain with this mod soon:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Did the oil change yesterday and found out there was a tiny leak in the drain valve installed by VW. The guy didn't tighten it enough I think. I didn't have any spare joint to replace the leaking one so I just refilled. The oil change was a fun game as I only had to connect a tube and open the valve  I did the oil filter too using the other tool mentionned in this thread. was very easy too. I will keep and eye on the oil level and reinstall the valve on the next oil change.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)




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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Today I upgraded to the recently released fumoto xs version.
This version is spot on and no need for an extension. It also has an o-ring which is better than the paper washer.
Pics coming soon.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Pics from different angles:


































































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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

[smiley=skull.gif] Zombie thread [smiley=skull.gif]

Don't see a point in this? If you're not going to change the oil filter then just use a vacuum extractor via the dipstick tube. Don't have to jack the car up, don't have to take off the belly pan.

If you do change the filter, then you are saving yourself what? the time it takes to unscrew the drain plug? 
Admittedly the valve looks well built but a solid plug can't fail.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Do I really need to reply to this  
Why people get upset about old threads. I like updating my posts. Might be helpful for people looking for info. I hate threads which go nowhere or lack closure. This is not an issue thread but it talks about a product I've been using for 8 years and I upgraded today. 
As for the point of it did I ask for that, really ! I've been enjoying oil changes (with filter) every 10.000 km for 150.000 km so far that's all the point of it.
No hard feelings though and thanks for stopping by


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Totally understand you with regards to unfinished threads, it's like going home to Mum and Dads for Sunday dinner, eating it and leaving before saying thank you or even offering to help tidy away. 

I think the previous poster was not making a point about reviving an old thread but just pointing out that it's qiestionable making something so simple and reliable (a single bolt and washer) into a more complicated solution, even though it does look quite pretty


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

I think that the big advantage of the tap is that removes the possibility of some heavy handed mechanic stripping the threads in the light alloy sump when replacing the drain plug.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

And it really does make the oil service change easy and clean. 
I use the two tools mentioned in this thread, the oil filter tool and this valve.
Connect a hose to the valve, put the hose in a 5l container and drink your coffee. No mess.
Like I said above no hard feelings


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Everyone's entitled to their opinion but hey, whatever works for you is all that matters.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Absolutely


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## Desmodave996 (Jun 2, 2013)

Another alternative is http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/product ... ain-valves

I fitted one of these during my last oil change, the benefit is not having to have the oil drain right underneath the car, simply fit the adapter in and can drain down the hose to a container.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Essexaviator (Jan 10, 2012)

As hadaak said but two tips to save mess.

1) use the filter drain adapter see pic to remove oil from filter so when you remove you don't get oil everywhere. You also need a 36mm soccer for filter casing and don't overtighten it's plastic. You can get adapter on eBay.
2) I use a pela pump £35 eBay or the electric oil pump which is quicker (£12 from LIDL) to remove most of the oil while it's hot so less to make a mess with. Also don't forget a new sump plug and washer. If you do change on ramps don't forget to have the car level to measure the correct fill amount. DO NOT OVERFILL! it's better to keep adding than having too much but the bonus of having a pump is you can always suck overfill out.
Enjoy,


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Desmodave996 said:


> Another alternative is http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/product ... ain-valves
> 
> I fitted one of these during my last oil change, the benefit is not having to have the oil drain right underneath the car, simply fit the adapter in and can drain down the hose to a container.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the stahlbus on another car on the oil filter to avoid making a mess when removing the filter and also have an sx fumoto on the oil pan. 
The advantage of the fumuto over the stahbus is you don't worry about losing the adaptor which is used to open the valve.
The other advantage of the new sx version is you don't need an extension for the TT oil pan (2L) and you can rotate the valve before torquing it to avoid having it protruding out too much. You can see from the last pics it is barely visible. If I smash the pan that hard on an obstacle the valve would be the last of my worries I guess 
The advantage of the stahlbus is it looks and fits like an oem plug.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Essexaviator said:


> 2) I use a pela pump £35 eBay or the electric oil pump which is quicker (£12 from LIDL) to remove most of the oil while it's hot so less to make a mess with.
> Enjoy,


I tried the electric pump a while back before I bought the TT. I couldn't get more than 1 litre out of the Golf MK5 dipstick. so I sent the pump back and forgot about it. 
So now I'm using 2 fumotos and 1 stahlbus and I love them


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Hadaak - I've seen a few oil extractors on the market that can remove the oil by just inserting a tube down the dip stick tube.






However - there's still the issue of replacing the oil filter. If I have to crawl under the car to get to the oil filter, I might as well just pull the drain plug while I'm under there!

Do you know if there's an oil filter relocation kit available for the 3.2-ltr engine? It would be so much easier to be able to extract the oil AND replace the filter from up top.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I've seen people looking for the relocation kit but haven't seen one yet.
When I bought the pump and tried the dipstick way I was planning to do oil and filter every 20k km and oil only at 10k km. The dipstick method didn't work as I got less than 1l out. But that was with a Golf MK5. That's why I switched for the valve later. 
Does the oil filter on the TT 3.2 have the valve like the 2L?
If it does not have one you can add a stahlbus valve like I did on my second car. I can post pics if you're interested. The valve will let you empty almost all the oil like on the 2L but you will still have to remove the cap slowly to avoid the mess.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

According to D3E8026E6A3 - Maintenance Procedures, it's like this. P/N 071 115 433.

View attachment D3E8026E6A3 - Maintenance Procedures.pdf


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I see. Then you need the stalbus valve. 
I'll upload pics of the stahlbus on my Touareg 3.2 which uses the same setup.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

As promised, pics of my 3.2 oil filter stahlbus mod.
















































































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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

The oil filter plug thread size is the same as oil pan thread size. I used an o-ring to install the stahlbus.

M 14 x 1.5

https://www.stahlbus.fr/lng/en/oil-drai ... l-set.html

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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Oil filter plug va stahlbus plug:










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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Very nice! Looks like a much easier set up. Just wish Audi had seen fit to put the oil filter somewhere easier to get to!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Yes. You just need a 12mm silicone hose and you're good to go.
Makes removing the 3.2 oil filter pretty clean.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Oil Change German Style -

You just have to love new mechanics. God bless his little heart! Okay, so he forgot the under pan. But it was probably a Friday and he had plans with his best girl after work. At least he didn't forget the drain plug!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looks like the Stahlbus is available on Amazon too. I can definitely see installing one in the filter cap and the oil pan.

Nice YouTube video of one installed in a Mini Cooper and another for a Jeep Wrangler - 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaaT5a1 ... e=youtu.be





The Stahlbus website -
http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil ... /index.php

As stated by Hadaak, this is all you need -
M14 x 1.5 and a length 12mm silicone hose. 

Amazon Germany -
https://www.amazon.de/stahlbus%C2%AE-%C ... XAYP0?th=1
Amazon UK -
https://www.amazon.de/Stahlbus-GmbH-OEL ... B01AMXAR8O


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

You're all set


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Just don't forget to get the o-ring you see in the pics.
i went with an o-ring for the lack of a better suitable washer. You'll see when you get to install the valve.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

When you screwed it into the oil pan, did you use blue or red Loctite?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Found another one similar to it called ValvoMax. Looks like it's pretty popular in the States. Basically the same concept. Even includes a little rubber keeper so the cap doesn't go missing. Only $19.00 on Amazon.com.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077ZGZ39V


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Looks good. Didn't know about that one.

Edit: I've already seen that one.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

This just showed up in my mail box today. The Stahlbus M14 x 1.5 oil drain valve. This comes with the female drain valve, crush washer & cap the male connector and the tube as shown. The chained cap was an extra option I bought separately just to check it out. Excellent quality, well machined and assembled. The cap fits snugly and is secured with an o-ring so it's not going anywhere. The chained cap is secured with a ring that fits into a groove that has been machined into the nut. Very nice piece of kit! Looking forward to changing my oil as soon as it warms up a bit more.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Nice kit :wink:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Did you use red or blue locktite when you installed yours?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

No locktite. I use the fumoto on both TT And Touareg Oil pan and Stahlbus on the Touareg oil filter (3.2).
Remember you will need an o-ring or a custom washer for the stahlbus on the oil filter. See my pics.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Why didn't you use the Stahlbus on the drain pans too??


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I've been using the fumuto for a long time. I like the no-adaptor thing. Just turn the lever and out comes the oil. 
On the oil filter there is no space to use a fumoto unless you are ready to do some modding of the oil cap.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Okay. My intention is to use the Stahlbus on both the filter and drain pan. I'll be sure to track down an o-ring for the filter.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

You'll start waiting for oil service time 
And do keep both oem oil pan plug and oil filter plug in the trunk just in case.
That's what I do.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Good advice, thanks! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well, it only took me a year to get around to installing this oil drain valve but it's now in an I'm quite happy with it. 

We'll see how it goes at the next oil change but after the mess I made during this oil change, this should be a huge improvement. The next step is installing one in the center plug in the oil filter cap. While I could probably live with out one in the cap, not having one makes for a "splashy" experience when draining the oil filter housing from that height. Unlike the other models, the 3.2-ltr filter cap is not designed for the VAG T-40057 drain tube. Thanks Audi! :x


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ Hadaak - Looks like the 2007 3.2 engine (BUB) filter housing cap plug has a 12M x 1.5 thread, which is a bit smaller than the one shown for the Toureg cap you retrofitted.

The challenge is going to be dealing with the difference between the Stahlbus valve and VAG plug design since Stahlbus uses a compression washer (which is fine at the oil sump plug) but the VAG oil filter cap uses an o-ring on the plug.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Unless Stahlbus comes up with an o-ring design for their valves, the other option is to use a billet oil cap and the Stahlbus M14-1.5 valve which is actually the same size as the oil sump drain valve.

This might actually be the better long term solution given the price of the ESC Tuning cap is almost the same as an OEM VAG Plastic cap (~$90 USD). Since the valve will add to the over all height of the hex, so it will require either a 36mm deep-well or Crows-Foot socket to remove the new oil filter housing cap.

The only extra effort is removing pressure plate and spring from the OEM plastic cap and fitting it into the billet cap as described in their instructions. But that seems easy enough and only has to be done once.

























Mfg Part #004673ECS01-02, ECS Part # 2804145
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/b ... cs01-02~a/


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

And here we go - Good news, Bad news.
Good news - My new billet aluminum oil filter housing from ESC showed up and it's really nice. The Stahlbus valve fits perfectly! 
Bad news - They sent me one for a 2.0, not a 3.2!


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Ah man ! I hate that when it happens


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yeah, I just got the RMA from ESC Tuning so I'm currently in process of exchanging it for the correct 3.2 housing cap. They confirmed I ordered the right part, but you know how it is...ordered part A, and some knuckle head packed part B and shipped it. :evil:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well it finally arrived! 

Looks as good as expected, really nice machining on this billet oil housing. Now I just need to pull the old plastic OEM, gut the spring and base and install them in the new Filter Housing and we're good to go.

The Stahlbus valve fits perfectly, but due to the extra height (23mm) I can't use the old 36mm socket and had to go with a 36mm crows foot which works just fine.

With the drain tube installed, this basically duplicates the features on the 1.8 and 2.0 oil housing caps, and should minimize the amount of oil drips all over the place during my next oil change.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Very nice, I look forward to seeing it fitted


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*Adding a Drain Valve to the 3.2 (BUB) Oil Filter Housing*

Here's the installation of the ESC Tuning 3.2 oil filter housing cap and Stahlbus drain valve. Although not shown, I now have two drain valves; one in the oil pan and one in the oil filter. The valve I used for the oil pan uses a lanyard to avoid loosing the cap. However for the filter housing, it would get in the way of the wrench or deep well socket so I left it off. Taking the OEM plastic oil filter housing apart was a bit tricky, but making a small pry tool out of a coat hangar made the job much easier.

When tightening, the OEM plastic housing requires 25 NM and the ECS aluminum housing requires 18 ft lb (24.4 NM) so the torque specification is virtually identical.

















*Part Sources -

ECS tuning site*
ECS Part No. ES#3089027
https://www.ecstuning.com/

*Stahlbus website*
M14 x 1.5 oil drain valve
Bleed the brakes - it's easy, change the oil intelligently. We have the solution for easy bleeding of hydraulic brakes/clutches and for intelligent oil changes for all vehicle types: the Stahlbus bleeding valve and the Stahlbus oil drain valve.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 7#p9149027

*Installing the Stahlbus Drain Valve -*

The Stahlbus valve went it without any problems. Torqued to spec, the copper crush washer ensured a good seal. This is now a permanent part of the oil housing cap and will not be removed. Draining the oil will be my means of a drain tube, so no more messy drain plug!

*Swapping OEM Components -*

Trying to get the filter seat out of the OEM cap turned out to be a lot harder than shown in the instructions. In fact it was a real PITA and I nearly gave up on it. The oily slick surfaces didn't help either. But after making a pry tool from an old coat hanger, I finally managed to get one of the retaining clips loose so I could remove the filter seat and spring. Once that was done, the rest was a piece of cake.

Installing the OEM filter seat and spring into the ESC cap was just a matter of putting them in an pressing down on the filter seat until it locked into place. I coated the outer threads with plenty of oil, installed the outer o-ring and filter and put it all back together just like the OEM cap. However in this case, because I don't have a 36mm deep well socket, I opted for a crows foot. Not sure that was such a great idea as it's a bit of a hassle to use in tight areas where you can't rotate it 360° due to other things being in the way. I think it would be a lot easier with a universal joint and a deep well socket to be honest. But anyway, it's all back together, torqued to spec, and ready to go.

*Leak Test - *

I left the under pans off and took it out for a run around the neighborhood to get the temperature up and make sure there were no leaks. After a 45-minute drive, it went back up on the ramps so I could see how it looked.

*CAUTION* - If you go for a test drive, do NOT run at highway speeds or the plastic panels in front of the wheel arch which are no longer secured could come off the vehicle and get damaged. My test drive was at or below 60 kph/35 mph.

As expected there were no leaks although I was a bit concerned having reused the outer o-ring. But it seems to be doing exactly what it's supposed to.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

That's some DIY there 
I use a deep well socket to remove the cap on the Touareg.
I did an oil change on the Treg last month and man that was a breeze


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## scoobz1 (Apr 11, 2021)

tttony said:


> I think that the big advantage of the tap is that removes the possibility of some heavy handed mechanic stripping the threads in the light alloy sump when replacing the drain plug.


Does alloy suffer from "_Galvanic corrosion". Noticed that most of the adaptors are made of brass, stainless steel or metal _ i.e. not alloy


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

scoobz1 said:


> Does alloy suffer from "_Galvanic corrosion". Noticed that most of the adaptors are made of brass, stainless steel or metal _ i.e. not alloy


Galvanic corrosion is the same as dissimilar metal corrosion, the latter term kind of spells it out better. When you have two _different_ metals, regardless of being an alloy, put together corrosion can occur simply due to the metals being in contact with some impure water, etc. that touches them both. I.e. road water/salt water that splashes up against the engine. The severity of this is more about how much "electro-potential" there is between the two metals. This is why you won't see copper crush washers on drain plugs on aluminium pans, for example. At least not if original/OE parts are being used. E.g. If you have a DSG you'll notice an alum washer is used on the drain plug, not a copper one, as the case is an alum. case.

The two metals in contact through the electrolyte, if they are to be different, should be selected so their electro-potential between each other is at least minimised. The more similar the metal the less that potential difference will be. Using copper and alum, is a fairly big no no for example. However one may note that many automotive cooling systems over the years have both of these metals somewhere in the cooling system with the coolant as the electrolyte that links them The reason this is possible is because automotive coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it which slow/block galvanic activity between the metals. But then you need to be sure to replace the coolant fairly regularly, to replenish/renew these properties. These days, automakers typically try to use similar metals at all points in the cooling system, and often times even choose to use plastics even if longevity of using plastic might be questionable, if it means keeping dissimilar metals out.

So the the more important thing is not really whether it's an alloy or pure metal, it's more about how different it is from the metal it's going to be in contact with.








Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Updates with a few new pictures. The Stahlbus valves really make an oil change much easier and with no mess at all, especially for draining the oil filter housing before removing it. The only oil drips were after the oil filter housing was drained and removed. And even then hardly any at all. Nothing like the mess it made removing the drain plug from the OEM oil filter housing in the past. While I currently have access to a hobby garage where I can put the car up on a lift, this would still be easy to do with the front end up on ramps.

TBO I think I spent more time getting the belly pans off and back on than I did draining and refilling the oil!

Although I must admit the crows-foot wrench is turning out to be a PITA to use. I think I will try to find a deep-well 36mm socket as it's just a bit too tight in there with those small coolant lines and the cross bar for the under tray right in the way.


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