# Madmax introduction and track build progress



## Madmax199

Hello all, I feel it's appropriate to properly introduce myself and my car since I am slowly becoming an active poster on the forum. My name is Max, but many call me Madmax because I tend to go all out with my builds and turn them into post-apocalyptic monsters with one single purpose... Go as fast as possible within rulesets.

My car is a 2001 225 Quattro roadster. It has been a long evolving build over the years as I competed through various racing classes of SCCA in the US. The car has gone through various stages, and is still a work in progress. After running the stock turbo to the ragged edge with direct-port water injection, pre-turbo injection, air-to-liquid intercooling etc., I moved into a hybrid turbo setup two race seasons ago and have been developing it ever since. Although I'm sure I'm going to forget some stuff, here is the bulk of the current mod list:

*Engine*
- Prototype AEM infinity standalone plug-n-play ECU with haldex integration 
- Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo with custom porting and external wastegate 
- Modified JBS knockoff exhaust manifold (ported and drilled for external wastegate outlet)
- Converted to E85 ethanol 
- Custom 42 DD 4" expansion chambered DP, and 3.5" aluminum exhaust 
- Custom FMIC and piping
- Badger5 80mm induction hose
- Twin modified Evo diverter valves 
- 1,000 cc injectors, DW65v in-tank fuel pump
- SEM intake manifold with 65mm TB
- FFE solid aluminum engine/transmission sandwich plate with dogbone delete
- VF mounts with solid aluminum inserts
- Custom power steering fluid cooler
- Custom 9 row engine oil cooler
- GM LS/Yukon coilpack conversion

*Suspension*
- 17X10 5zigen fn01rc
- 295 Hoosier A6 front/back
- Revalved H&R RSS (listed for R32) with custom spring rates (700lbs/1300lbs)
- Short Swift springs with deleted helpers
- Custom camber plates
- Custom Madmax roll center correction kit
- Custom Madmax bump steer correction 
- No front swaybar 
- Madmax rear adjustable tie bars
- Modified stock rear swaybar
- Tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit

*
Interior/Exterior*
- Gutted interior 
- Single OMP race seat
- 5 point RCI harness
- 4-point roll bar
- Spaced out and trimmed front fenders (2" trim and 2" spacing) 
- Custom rear spoiler 
- Modified stock bumper with vent block off plates
- Custom front air dam
- Wiper delete
- Bonnet air extractor vent


----------



## Madmax199

Engine bay









Front fascia 









Side view (spaced out and trimmed front fender, as well as trimmed quarter panel can be spotted)









Unfinished rear end. There is a diffuser and rear fender flares in the works









Interior 









Roll protection


----------



## Madmax199

Custom Downpipe with 3.5" primary and massive 4" v-band expansion chamber

































Ported and modified JBS knockoff manifold

























Ported Hybrid turbo with custom turbine/housing clearance, custom 11 blade turbine wheel, deleted internal wastegate dump

















Short aluminum catback with 3.5" diameter piping


----------



## jamman

Will follow this with interest, good to see a roadster owner showing the coupe owners how to do it. :wink:


----------



## Madmax199

RR figures on old, pre-Standalone ECU, circuit track tune (conservative boost level)









RR figures on old, pre-Standalone ECU (agressive Solo racing and time trial tune)









Hybrid turbo MAF values (sensor is maxed out and flatlines from onset to redline)


----------



## hang your idols

That power and torque it`s very,very impressive for a hybrid!


----------



## Madmax199

Suspension:

Old pics of the car on the lift to really showcase the massive rubber under the car

















Madmax adjustable rear tie bars









MCPi Delrin Defcon solid race bushing (forward position in front control arms)

























Prototype roll center correction kit









Bump steer correction









Coilovers with custom valved inverted monotube dampers 









5" tall front swift springs. They are much shorter and lighter to reduce unsprung weigh, and raise the collar location up to create some inner wheel/tire clearance 









And the combo of main and helper that they are replacing in the original Clubsport coilovers









Assembled and mounted on the car


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> Will follow this with interest, good to see a roadster owner showing the coupe owners how to do it. :wink:


Thank you Sir, it's my pleasure to share this adventure with other TT enthusiasts!



hang your idols said:


> That power and torque it`s very,very impressive for a hybrid!


Well, I'm convinced there is a good bit more in it. At the time these figures were recorded on the RR, I was still on the stock narrowband ECU, 630 cc injectors, and they were big limiting factors. With the standalone programable ECU, a less restricted 3.5" exhaust, 1000 cc injectors, plans for a mild inlet cam, and some head work, it is going to get wild. I predict that this thing will shatter people's perception of what can be achieved on a factory-frame hybrid turbo. Stay tuned!


----------



## brushwood69

Great write up and loads of interesting developments and good to get another race perspective on the TT.

1. Why choose the roadster?
2. What is the Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo? K04 based?
3. Can we get a close up of the wing modification?
4. How have you modified the camber correction bit?

And to help out!!!  

Wing = Fender
Bonnet = Hood
and tire is spelt tyre and we wont go into aluminium!

Cheers BW


----------



## Gonzalo1495

brushwood69 said:


> 1. Why choose the roadster?
> 2. What is the Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo? K04 based?


I believe he stole his wife's car if I remember correctly :lol: 
and the GTTX Hybrid is a K04 based Hybrid turbo sold by Gonzo Tuning, same tuning company that I chose for my tune. By far the best available for the 1.8 platform imho.

This thread was LONG overdue Max. Glad to see you're active on this forum too, as there's more active users here who could benefit from your know how


----------



## Madmax199

brushwood69 said:


> Great write up and loads of interesting developments and good to get another race perspective on the TT.
> 
> 1. Why choose the roadster?
> 2. What is the Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo? K04 based?
> 3. Can we get a close up of the wing modification?
> 4. How have you modified the camber correction bit?


Like Gonzalo said, the turbo is a K04-based hybrid sold in the USA by GTS tuning. Pretty good bit of a kit as it includes hardware and sofware in one package from the same company. As pointed out, the roadster literally fell on my lap, so I did not choose it... it choosed me.

Front camber is handled both at top with a custom plate, and at the bottom via the ball joint placement (in relation to the standard mounting position). The combo allows me upwards of negative 5 degrees of static camber compensation. In the back, I use my own Madmax adjustable tie bars. So yes, all camber correction bits have been modified.

Here is a close up view of the wing modification. It is spaced out 50mm with the arch lip trimmed up about the same about 











brushwood69 said:


> And to help out!!!
> 
> Wing = Fender
> Bonnet = Hood
> and tire is spelt tyre and we wont go into aluminium!
> 
> Cheers BW


Haha, English is a language I learned late (first language is French) so I can easily conform. I assure you that you'll see more lads, bloody, and hell in my posts from this point forward. Cheers!


----------



## 1781cc

loving this car, looks brutal and functional! topic subscribed


----------



## hang your idols

Gonzalo1495 said:


> brushwood69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Why choose the roadster?
> 2. What is the Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo? K04 based?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe he stole his wife's car if I remember correctly :lol:
> and the GTTX Hybrid is a K04 based Hybrid turbo sold by Gonzo Tuning, same tuning company that I chose for my tune. By far the best available for the 1.8 platform imho.
Click to expand...

What turbine wheel have this hybrid if is not a secret?RS6 wheel?K04 2,0TFSI?


----------



## MrQaud

Will follow this with interest - great work so far 8)


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> loving this car, looks brutal and functional! topic subscribed


Thank you!



hang your idols said:


> What turbine wheel have this hybrid if is not a secret?RS6 wheel?K04 2,0TFSI?


It is a RS6-spec inducer/exducer turbine wheel, but there is a twist. Most standard KKK turbine wheels are 12 blades, but I decided to go with an 11 blade wheel instead to limit the choke point inherent to the hot-side of these K04 housing. The goal was to improve turbine flow at high rpm without losing too much spool and transient response (the 11 blade turbine has lower weight and inertia than the standard, so I haven't lost much, if any, spool with this move). I would like to think I've succeeded since the car has lightning fast response.


----------



## Madmax199

Here are some pics and videos of the car on the RR. I'm there so often that I feel that I spend more time on my these things than I spend racing the bloody car.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nqmI9S ... pp=desktop


----------



## hang your idols

Madmax199 said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> loving this car, looks brutal and functional! topic subscribed
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> 
> What turbine wheel have this hybrid if is not a secret?RS6 wheel?K04 2,0TFSI?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It is a RS6-spec inducer/exducer turbine wheel, but there is a twist. Most standard KKK turbine wheels are 12 blades, but I decided to go with an 11 blade wheel instead to limit the choke point inherent to the hot-side of these K04 housing. The goal was to improve turbine flow at high rpm without losing too much spool and transient response (the 11 blade turbine has lower weight and inertia than the standard, so I haven't lost much, if any, spool with this move). I would like to think I've succeeded since the car has lightning fast response.
Click to expand...

Ok,thanks,good to know,every day i learn something new


----------



## Gonzalo1495

What W/M kit did you use Max, snow performance?


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> What W/M kit did you use Max, snow performance?


I ran a custom kit from a company called Labonte. Unfortunately they went under during the recession, they were kind of the Aquamist of the US as they designed components and set trends instead of slapping stickers on parts that everyone uses. My kit had a Maf and injector pulse controller, high pressure pump (250 psi), true boost failsafes etc.

If you want something good, give Scott at USRT a call and tell him the doctor sent you. He knows his stuff, and is the leader in water injection in the 1.8t community (I got with him and he modeled and developed his direct port kits from what I ran on my car). Great innovative guy!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you want something good, give Scott at USRT a call and tell him the doctor sent you. He knows his stuff, and is the leader in water injection in the 1.8t community (I got with him and he modeled and developed his direct port kits from what I ran on my car). Great innovative guy!
Click to expand...

They actually only sell Snow Performance kits according to there website :lol:, Unless your hookup has a special kit. Not that I have a problem with SP as they are tried and tested.

So I have to ask, did you have to buy this? http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... cts_id=300 or something similar? According to their kit it will only support 19psi standard, if you run more than that you need that adapter. 
Also did you run purely direct injection or a combination of closer to engine and also furthest from engine nozzle location? I imagine Direct Injection Ports + right after the intercooler would yield the best results? Considering you have the budget to run both that is correct?


----------



## Von Twinzig

Some great info Max, would you have any objection if the mods moved your thread to the Track and Motorsports Prep section?

VT


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> They actually only sell Snow Performance kits according to there website :lol:, Unless your hookup has a special kit. Not that I have a problem with SP as they are tried and tested.
> 
> So I have to ask, did you have to buy this? http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... cts_id=300 or something similar? According to their kit it will only support 19psi standard, if you run more than that you need that adapter.
> Also did you run purely direct injection or a combination of closer to engine and also furthest from engine nozzle location? I imagine Direct Injection Ports + right after the intercooler would yield the best results? Considering you have the budget to run both that is correct?


I do NOT recommend using a boost activated kit (especially on a fast spooling factory frame turbo). Back in the old days we used them because they provided an easy method to control the spray, but that was mainly because there were no readily available controllers in the market. The boost-activated controllers are not ideal because they follow the boost profile, something that can be very erratic and inconsistent from gear to gear. You don't want your spray overshooting , surging, lagging or any other odd things that sometimes happen with a boost curve. A maf controlled system like the one linked below is much more accurate and will match the fast acting factory turbo character very well. 
http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... ts_id=1859

I ran a total of 7 nozzles, 4 directly ported ones, 2 in the charge piping pre-throttle plate, and 1 nozzle spraying pre-turbo. My combo was quite extreme an inovative at the time, but so were the results. In a two nozzle setup, I recommend placing 1 nozzle in the metal pipe coming right out of the turbo, and 1 nozzle in a sandwich plate after the throttle body. This will net the best results, guaranteed (tested every possible locations to come up with that conclusion). Check my thread below for a good read on everything charge cooling related.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... roach-quot


----------



## Madmax199

Von Twinzig said:


> Some great info Max, would you have any objection if the mods moved your thread to the Track and Motorsports Prep section?
> 
> VT


I do not object at all mate!


----------



## Madmax199

Since we're talking about past setups, now would be a good time to show some of the various modified stages the engine went through over the years.

Water injected with 7 nozzles and air-to liquid intercooling

























An evolution of the previous setup with more metal piping and less junctions (failure points). This configuration also introduced angled water injection nozzle holders for ideal spray, and a dual diverter outlet allowing me to run two DVs for double the volume bypassed (makes a difference when you're pushing well over 30 psi of boost on every squeeze of the throttle). 

































Latest egine bay configuration with externally-gated hybrid turbo, FMIC, and GM coil conversion and short route IC piping[/B]


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They actually only sell Snow Performance kits according to there website :lol:, Unless your hookup has a special kit. Not that I have a problem with SP as they are tried and tested.
> 
> So I have to ask, did you have to buy this? http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... cts_id=300 or something similar? According to their kit it will only support 19psi standard, if you run more than that you need that adapter.
> Also did you run purely direct injection or a combination of closer to engine and also furthest from engine nozzle location? I imagine Direct Injection Ports + right after the intercooler would yield the best results? Considering you have the budget to run both that is correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do NOT recommend using a boost activated kit (especially on a fast spooling factory frame turbo). Back in the old days we used them because they provided an easy method to control the spray, but that was mainly because there were no readily available controllers in the market. The boost-activated controllers are not ideal because they follow the boost profile, something that can be very erratic and inconsistent from gear to gear. You don't want your spray overshooting , surging, lagging or any other odd things that sometimes happen with a boost curve. A maf controlled system like the one linked below is much more accurate and will match the fast acting factory turbo character very well.
> http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?ma ... ts_id=1859
> 
> I ran a total of 7 nozzles, 4 directly ported ones, 2 in the charge piping pre-throttle plate, and 1 nozzle spraying pre-turbo. My combo was quite extreme an inovative at the time, but so were the results. In a two nozzle setup, I recommend placing 1 nozzle in the metal pipe coming right out of the turbo, and 1 nozzle in a sandwich plate after the throttle body. This will net the best results, guaranteed (tested every possible locations to come up with that conclusion). Check my thread below for a good read on everything charge cooling related.
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... roach-quot
Click to expand...

I was referring to the MAF based SP version which links that MAP controller as an upgrade if your system runs more than 19psi, as you said it's more ideal for the platform we have and it will net a better/smoother power band if you run the MAF version (I didn't look to thoroughly through the website haha). But your 2 nozzle set up seems to be the best bang for buck. This is going on my to do list again (originally removed it because I figured I'd be content with 300bhp but I want more  )


----------



## Madmax199

Some action shots of the car in action at my last auto-x


























And a short cabin video of what it's like being strapped inside of this coffin with potent power/weight ratio (1100 kg curb weight).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=y ... pp=desktop


----------



## Madmax199

Post of the day, engine management! This is what is the brain of my setup nowadays after years of playing and wasting time with the usual standard ECU remapping. My chance to do that came when AEM electronics apprached me to help them with the development of a gen 1 Haldex compatible plug and play engine management system. They had already developed a working unit and harness conversion for the 1.8T, but it didn't solve the problem with the AWD cars since the haldex relies on the factory ecu (via CanBus) to operate the haldex system. I jumped on the opprtunity and helped them with the project.

Why use AEM? Because of the capability of the Infinity EMS, the ease of install being plug-and-play, the cost/performance value, and the wide support base (there is not one major tuner in the world that doesn't provide AEM tuning services and support). I will not post a laundry list of bullet point features because this is not an advertisement for the product but rather me showing a superior option to the Bosch motronic ME7.5 that the community is used to.

The important thing to know is that the tuning logic of this unit is VE-based (a big step up from their previous EMS 1 and 2). This means that a single volumetric efficiency map is at the core of the tuning which makes everything simpler, more precise, and most importantly consistent. The unit also have processing speed/power only found in super exotic standalones that are much more expensive. For example, the Infinity calculates and corrects injector pulses every 1/10th of a microsecond (there are 1,000 microseconds in 1 millisecond). So it's an understatement to say that the speed and precision to the speed density fueling model is mind boggling.

ECU 

















1.8T Jumper harness


















3.5 bar true manifold pressure sensor (MAP). Comes with 1.8t conversion pigtail to stay 100% PnP with the factory harness. The decision however was made to not support the Vag pressure sensor for its obvious performance limitations.



























*Hardware Installation*

Detailed pic of the weather proof USB ports









Side by side with OEM









Jumper harness laid over the existing factory setup









Jumper plugged in









Installed and tucked away. The extra plugs are for auxiliaries (main, true MAP sensor, and ethanol content sensor for full flex fuel integration ) 









*
How difficult is it to install and setup on the software side?*

Very instinctive and straightforward, it doesn't feel like you need a user manual to get a feel for it. There is a setup wizzard that litterally takes the hard and annoying part of tuning from scratch out of the equation. Takes literally 15 minutes to setup that very convenient wizzard and all that's left is the fun and exciting stuff. Here are some screenshots:

Configurable gauge panel:









Cranking/Starting maps









Idle maps









Main VE table (this is the tabke that makes the magic happen) 









Set up Wizzard -- the basic things for the 1.8t are already loaded into the PnP file from AEM, but obviously that's for a basic components. Some things like fuel type, injector flow rates, Throttle body configuration needed to be properly setup and configurated for my car for example.

Engine specs and airflow model (VE or MAF model can be chosen) 









Crank/cam trigger sync









Injector Type setup









Common Injector dropdown list 









Drive By Wire Tuning









Boost control 









Engine protections (from boost, oil pressure, lambda) 









Knock based engine protection









Primary rev limiter









2-step rev limiter 









Launch Antilag









No lift shift









Traction Control









This video is the cold idle right after cranking and firing it up for the first time ( zero tuning done ). It took a couple of tries to fire, but that's normal on E85 in cold weather. I must note that this is nothing short of amazing when the cranking/warm-up pulse width, as well as timing/coolant temp compensations were setup for pump gas by default, and I was still using a narrowband O2 sensor when the unit is expecting a wideband signal





This one is the motor idling (still cold) after maybe 2-3 minutes from initial start (still with the software untouched). I don't think I got much better warm up idling characteristics on the stock ecu at those ambient temperatures with everything dialed in. Those familiar with tuning from scratch can attest how difficult it is to get a motor to even start, let alone idle properly.





Video with the idle tuned, it also shows the sweet live gauge setup in the software





This video shows the great idle characteristic (much better than it ever was with the stock ecu) from the outside and under the car. You can also spot the tone of my custom shorty 89mm aluminium exhaust 





You have two ways to record logs. First there is the conventional PC logging where you load the laptop in the car with you and log as you go. This is fine and makes sense if you're going to be tuning and making some changes as you go along. However, there is also a convenient USB stick if you don't want to be hauling the laptop but want to get some logs. Fully customizable so you can set under what conditions, and what channels it records. This is sweet, as we're not always with a laptop logging -- but with the stick, any WOT pulls can be configured to be logged and stored (using throttle postion, engine and vehicle speed etc.). 










Here is a short video of a segment and screen shot of a log session where I was experiencing a cut. It quickly helped me pinpoint that I was getting fuel and spark cut due to an untouched preset limit being eceeded. Really a game changer in the way we can get and review logs IMO.


----------



## TTSPORT666

Hey Max. Hope you are well. Really nice to see you on here. And sharing your wealth of mk1 knowledge. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Damien.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

That USB logging method is insanely cool  I personally am annoyed having to have the OBD2 cables running in between my legs and making sure my laptop doesn't slam into the dash whenever I try logging. This is just pure ingenuity at it's finest!


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> That USB logging method is insanely cool  I personally am annoyed having to have the OBD2 cables running in between my legs and making sure my laptop doesn't slam into the dash whenever I try logging. This is just pure ingenuity at it's finest!


Does it really excite you that much Gonz, really....

I always thought you liked something in between your legs :wink: :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That USB logging method is insanely cool  I personally am annoyed having to have the OBD2 cables running in between my legs and making sure my laptop doesn't slam into the dash whenever I try logging. This is just pure ingenuity at it's finest!
> 
> 
> 
> Does it really excite you that much Gonz, really....
> 
> I always thought you liked something in between your legs :wink: :lol:
Click to expand...

Honestly yes, it's pretty neat, then again if I was a 40 year old man, I think I would have problems getting excited too! Don't they make pills for that Jamman? :wink:


----------



## jamman

Nearer to 50 than 40 young man...running on good oil and performing well.

I'm just worried that if Max turned up at your house he might find his picture hung on the wall with flowers and a heart round it.


----------



## Sandy

Excellent read Madmax, you guys have the best tuning equipment and parts availability over there whereas we pay twice as much for twice and less here and people charge extortionate prices as they know people want modding parts and re maps so we have to pay the price or not have it at all [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Thanks

Sandy


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> Nearer to 50 than 40 young man...running on good oil and performing well.
> 
> I'm just worried that if Max turned up at your house he might find his picture hung on the wall with flowers and a heart round it.


Sorry, I don't go for men who drive roadsters, I may as well get a girl if that's the case :roll: :lol:


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nearer to 50 than 40 young man...running on good oil and performing well.
> 
> I'm just worried that if Max turned up at your house he might find his picture hung on the wall with flowers and a heart round it.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I don't go for men who drive roadsters, I may as well get a girl if that's the case :roll: :lol:
Click to expand...

I've spoken with Max and he's cool you can be the roadster boys "gimp" ala Pulp Fiction :wink:


----------



## Sandy

now now ladies please put your handbags down :roll:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

With a more relevant question :roll: , Max, if I wanted to theoretically run drag radials, and only 2, would it be better to run them in the front or the rear? Also considering I'll have the Haldex Insert installed so it will be 50/50 spilt when engaged so I would imagine for sole street/drag purposes it would be similar? Or would having that extra weight from the front end be more beneficial than having them in the rear. I tried searching for insight on drag radials on this car but haven't come across anyone running them besides you and some guy a few years back who had 16" ones. 
If 2 isn't a good path to follow, I guess I'll end up getting street legal radials or something of that nature.


----------



## Madmax199

On an AWD car, even with our front wheelspin based system, race tires need to go on all 4. The resaon for that (reagrdless of having the insert) is in the intitial launch process, the front tires are more loaded therefore bite more than the rear to get you moving -- then as more weight is gradually transferred to the rear, they become more and more important and equipped at provinding longitunal grip as well as keeping the car moving straight.

If I had absolutely no other choice but to use two drag radials, I would use them in the front and take advantage of their ability to dig you out of the hole (soft deflecting sidewalls and soft rubber compound make them great at biting from stationary). However, like I said, that's not ideal for an AWD car and would be pretty ghetto.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> On an AWD car, even with our front wheelspin based system, race tires need to go on all 4. The resaon for that (reagrdless of having the insert) is in the intitial launch process, the front tires are more loaded therefore bite more than the rear to get you moving -- then as more weight is gradually transferred to the rear, they become more and more important and equipped at provinding longitunal grip as well as keeping the car moving straight.
> 
> If I had absolutely no other choice but to use two drag radials, I would use them in the front and take advantage of their ability to dig you out of the hole (soft deflecting sidewalls and soft rubber compound make them great at biting from stationary). However, like I said, that's not ideal for an AWD car and would be pretty ghetto.


Okay that makes sense, can't break away from it's nature sadly haha. And I guess I won't run two then, don't wanna look like those ghetto Turboed Civics :lol:

So I've done some research on tires, one final question. Is it better to get a wider tire rather than a highly rated one? 
I'm liking the Hankook Ventus Line, and I've done some number crunching and this is what I got:
Hankook Ventus RS3: 245/40/18 $785 Tirerack.com
Hankook VENTUS V12 EVO2: 265/35/18 $614 Tirerack.com
The RS3's are monstrous apparently, but the V12 EVO2 are no slouch either. What would your recommendation be? Besides getting smaller wheels since these 18's are killing my wallet [smiley=bigcry.gif]
I can change up the sidewalls if the 35 is too small and it would still be cheaper than the RS3's. Not to mention I could just run 225/40 RS3's if the tire quality is more important than the width helping to put power down as that would be even cheaper


----------



## Madmax199

There is no comparison between the RS-3 and the V12. Even with smaller footprint the RS-3 will outshine the V12 in both lateral and longitudinal grip. The only way IMO to come out a winner is to get another competitive extreme performance tire that is cheaper than the RS-3.

The main ones in that segment are the dunlop ZII (star specs), Bridgstone RE-71R, and BFG Rival. Well it happens that you're in luck. After some digging for you, I found that Tirerack has a close out on the Rival in 255s. They will nearly match the two top contenders (ZII and RS-3 in performance in the same size. Where you win/win is that the Rivals (due to the closeout) are cheaper in a wider 255 size than the competition in narrower width. The availability in these closeouts don't last forever, so at $760 for (4) 255s, I'd jump on it. You can tell me I'm awesome later!!!

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... &tab=Sizes


----------



## Madmax199

TTSPORT666 said:


> Hey Max. Hope you are well. Really nice to see you on here. And sharing your wealth of mk1 knowledge. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> 
> Damien.


Hey Damien, hope all is well with you too. I've recently started posting in this forum as well, I realized that I can always learn from, and share a thing or two with a group with a different outlook than what I'm accustomed to. To be honest, it's a bit different, but I like it. Hopefully I can make many friends and become part of the group. You should drop by once in a while on Quattroworld and say hello, you'll always be part of the family.



Gonzalo1495 said:


> That USB logging method is insanely cool  I personally am annoyed having to have the OBD2 cables running in between my legs and making sure my laptop doesn't slam into the dash whenever I try logging. This is just pure ingenuity at it's finest!


Yeah, it's a neat piece of technology. It makes logging in motorsports conditions possible and very simple. The convenience of it can only be experienced. A game changer for me since most racing sanctioning bodies would not let a laptop (even strapped) hang around during competition.



Sandy said:


> Excellent read Madmax, you guys have the best tuning equipment and parts availability over there whereas we pay twice as much for twice and less here and people charge extortionate prices as they know people want modding parts and re maps so we have to pay the price or not have it at all [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sandy


I hear you Sandy, I can totally relate as you guys always get the best cars and the best trims while we Mericans have to settle for the scrap. I am living this as we speak, I would give a limb for a 02M 6-speed TDi box, but they only came in Euro cars. My standard 02m box is geared way too short for the power/weight ratio I have nowadays, any throttle application in first or second gear and I'm sitting on the rev limiter. A good problem to have, but very frustrating if you use the car for competition. Count your blessings, as the grass is not always greener on the other side.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> There is no comparison between the RS-3 and the V12. Even with smaller footprint the RS-3 will outshine the V12 in both lateral and longitudinal grip. The only way IMO to come out a winner is to get another competitive extreme performance tire that is cheaper than the RS-3.
> 
> The main ones in that segment are the dunlop ZII (star specs), Bridgstone RE-71R, and BFG Rival. Well it happens that you're in luck. After some digging for you, I found that Tirerack has a close out on the Rival in 255s. They will nearly match the two top contenders (ZII and RS-3 in performance in the same size. Where you win/win is that the Rivals (due to the closeout) are cheaper in a wider 255 size than the competition in narrower width. The availability in these closeouts don't last forever, so at $760 for (4) 255s, I'd jump on it. You can tell me I'm awesome later!!!
> 
> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... &tab=Sizes


Okay thank you for the information! And wow those are some cheap Rivals, I may very well jump on them  I think I should downsize to 17's though at the same time. That's if I find a good set of 17's somewhere. Thanks for all the help Max!


----------



## Sandy

Madmax199 said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent read Madmax, you guys have the best tuning equipment and parts availability over there whereas we pay twice as much for twice and less here and people charge extortionate prices as they know people want modding parts and re maps so we have to pay the price or not have it at all [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sandy
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you Sandy, I can totally relate as you guys always get the best cars and the best trims while we Mericans have to settle for the scrap. I am living this as we speak, I would give a limb for a 02M 6-speed TDi box, but they only came in Euro cars. My standard 02m box is geared way too short for the power/weight ratio I have nowadays, any throttle application in first or second gear and I'm sitting on the rev limiter. A good problem to have, but very frustrating if you use the car for competition. Count your blessings, as the grass is not always greener on the other side.
Click to expand...

Gosh I thought we had it bad but looks like we've all got issues all over the world.

I lucky I use my car for daily use. your car as mentioned before has some great mods and features I would never have dreamt of. our money goes to the tax man who rapes us for everything we earn so I have no idea how people save up for these fancy mods. I bought a good few mods but sold them on as family circumstances changed otherwise I would have fitted them on and looked for more power before selling the car on. still a dreamer 

thanks

Sandy


----------



## John-H

Madmax199 said:


> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some great info Max, would you have any objection if the mods moved your thread to the Track and Motorsports Prep section?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> I do not object at all mate!
Click to expand...

Good information and very interesting. As requested, although subtlety different; the thread remains in the Mk1 section but has redirect links in the Track and motorsport forum as well as the Mk1 and Track and motorsport build thread listings. This way people can still see it bob up and down in the forum thread rankings, attracting new interest and also find it in either build thread listings at any time. So maximum exposure there


----------



## brushwood69

Hi, Interesting to hear about your gearing and it would be good to pickup this in more detail (another thread?) I suffer the same where I could do with a second and a half and a third and a half and not go up. So interested in your TDi box statement

BW


----------



## Von Twinzig

John-H said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Von Twinzig said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some great info Max, would you have any objection if the mods moved your thread to the Track and Motorsports Prep section?
> 
> VT
> 
> 
> 
> I do not object at all mate!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good information and very interesting. As requested, although subtlety different; the thread remains in the Mk1 section but has redirect links in the Track and motorsport forum as well as the Mk1 and Track and motorsport build thread listings. This way people can still see it bob up and down in the forum thread rankings, attracting new interest and also find it in either build thread listings at any time. So maximum exposure there
Click to expand...

You are such a clever bloke John it's scary sometimes.

Thanks for the work you've put into this section, I know it's hugely appreciated by the boys and girls.[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

VT


----------



## CollecTTor

This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

CollecTTor said:


> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.


----------



## Sandy

CollecTTor said:


> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.


Was that a typo?. :?


----------



## longodds

CollecTTor said:


> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.


I thought you guys didn't get irony.


----------



## Madmax199

brushwood69 said:


> Hi, Interesting to hear about your gearing and it would be good to pickup this in more detail (another thread?) I suffer the same where I could do with a second and a half and a third and a half and not go up. So interested in your TDi box statement
> 
> BW


I will put a thread together so we can discuss the topic in details. Cheers!


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.


Lol, I approve this message! What's up buddy?


----------



## CollecTTor

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I approve this message! What's up buddy?
Click to expand...

Just surfing, since the Vortex TT forum is dead. Lots of wrenching to do this weekend on the new Vert and the track car. One month til HPDE!


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> This guy Max, he doesn't know what he's talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, I approve this message! What's up buddy?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just surfing, since the Vortex TT forum is dead. Lots of wrenching to do this weekend on the new Vert and the track car. One month til HPDE!
Click to expand...

I agree Adam, the TT section of vortex has seen better days (hopefully it can recover). I have started posting here lately since this board is much more active and exciting since a lot of things are done differently across the pond than how we normally them. Post more, this board could use your 20v knowledge...

Good for you that you find the drive, as I said to you before, I haven't found the drive lately to do anything on mine. It is still sitting on stands from when I replaced the second axle I destroyed. Good luck on the HPDE prep, and bring it back straight ... Freddy smacked his MK2 build on his last event. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## CollecTTor

Madmax199 said:


> I agree Adam, the TT section of vortex has seen better days (hopefully it can recover). I have started posting here lately since this board is much more active and exciting since a lot of things are done differently across the pond than how we normally them. Post more, this board could use your 20v knowledge...
> 
> Good for you that you find the drive, as I said to you before, I haven't found the drive lately to do anything on mine. It is still sitting on stands from when I replaced the second axle I destroyed. Good luck on the HPDE prep, and bring it back straight ... Freddy smacked his MK2 build on his last event. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Same reason I come over here. As you've seen, they're hard to convince their way might not be the best. Yeah, I saw Freddy's carnage, only 10 min in too. [smiley=bigcry.gif] The track I'm going to is the same one that produced my tripod picture (short, technical, lots of runoff, no barriers), but only OEM rear sway this time.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

CollecTTor said:


> As you've seen, they're hard to convince their way might not be the best.


Truer words have never been posted here :lol:


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> As you've seen, they're hard to convince their way might not be the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Truer words have never been posted here :lol:
Click to expand...

350bhp stock k04 on a stock engine :wink: :-*


----------



## CollecTTor

jamman said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> As you've seen, they're hard to convince their way might not be the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Truer words have never been posted here :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 350bhp stock k04 on a stock engine :wink: :-*
Click to expand...

Mk1 TTQ with no aftermarket swaybars that will handle better than any other MK1 TTQ in the UK. :-*


----------



## Gonzalo1495

CollecTTor said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Truer words have never been posted here :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 350bhp stock k04 on a stock engine :wink: :-*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mk1 TTQ with no aftermarket swaybars that will handle better than any other MK1 TTQ in the UK. :-*
Click to expand...

Running a 4bar FPR I might add :lol: :wink:


----------



## Von Twinzig

jamman said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> As you've seen, they're hard to convince their way might not be the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Truer words have never been posted here :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 350bhp stock k04 on a stock engine :wink: :-*
Click to expand...

I so want to believe this as it will save me a fortune, which I will promptly put on Shergar to win the 2:30 at Newmarket. 

VT


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Von Twinzig said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Truer words have never been posted here :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 350bhp stock k04 on a stock engine :wink: :-*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I so want to believe this as it will save me a fortune, which I will promptly put on Shergar to win the 2:30 at Newmarket.
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

This was a typo on my part (which I explained to jamman but whatever :roll: :wink: ). However in this thread he showed his highest dyno on a stock turbo/motor, it was like 320 I believe.


----------



## jamman

CollecTTor said:


> Mk1 TTQ with no aftermarket swaybars that will handle better than any other MK1 TTQ in the UK. :-*


Have you raced every Mk1 TTQ in the UK ? No then why make such a claim just makes you look a bit of a big head. 

I'm sure it would anyway mine for sure.

Gonz knows what I'm on about, a slightly overinflated claim he made the other day and seems to have forgotten about.( show me where you explained/PMed me Gonz and I will say sorry as I'm not aware you have buddy)

Donald Trump is all that needs saying


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> Donald Trump is all that needs saying


Low blow, considering you guys still worship a 100 year old bag who steals all your money :lol:
Edit: as for the swaybar argument, I don't understand how you guys can still argue this. It has literally been proven before your eyes using real world data that the thicker your sway bars are, the less grip you will have on the car, and the slower it will be on a track. I'm sure the cars in the UK FEEL better, but that's a different question imo.


----------



## jamman

I'm not arguing with anyone Gonz I'm sure your mate is right it's just the way people put things across.

To be quite blunt I don't really care the TT isnt the car to have for a track toy BUT all credit to people that do I take my hat off to them, love the look.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> I'm not arguing with anyone Gonz I'm sure your mate is right it's just the way people put things across.
> 
> To be quite blunt I don't really care the TT isnt the car to have for a track toy BUT all credit to people that do I take my hat off to them, love the look.


Oh it seemed like you were disputing it. 
Yeah I agree honestly, the TT is really a road car. I mean any car this small which weighs this much was never intended for the track anyways, however that's also a reason why I like this car and try to modify it, some people like the challenge haha. Fair game Jamman


----------



## Sandy

I so love my tt :mrgreen:


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> To be quite blunt I don't really care the TT isnt the car to have for a track toy BUT all credit to people that do I take my hat off to them, love the look.


I've usually never have much problem with people's view on things, especially when it's clear that they have no experience on the topic. However, statements like the one you posted above always robbed me the wrong way. What makes a TT not the car to have as a track toy?

The car is cheap to buy and build, short wheelbase, AWD, good handling, turbocharged platform with tons of potential to make big power. If you look at just the spec sheets, it is nothing but a German version of the boost buggys of the same era (EVO, STi). Boost buggies don't impress in stock form, but modifiy them and they have the potential to destroy some big egos and high price machines.

I have competed at US national level with my TT in SCCA SP (Street Prepared class ) against the best sport cars in that price range. The TT was never outclassed in handling, power, traction moving through several classes. Research or ask anyone that knows about competition and racing and they can tell you how hard it is to trophy at nationals against the best similarly prepped Miatas, MR-2, 3-series BMW, Z3-Z4 BMW, Porsche Boxter in a leveled playing field ... and that's just to name a few. The TT is every bit as capable on track as any of the cars people put on a pedestal or use as gold standard for track use.

You own a TT because you love the look, I own one because of its track ability. So I would say you know how to make them look good and I know what they are capable of doing at the track.


----------



## Sandy

metro track car mini track car nova astra and so forth 
any car can be made for the track and the tt is an all contender with high prospects  
my tts my road track car


----------



## Madmax199

Weight Reduction

From this: 3,255 lbs (1,476 kg)

















To this: 2,600 lbs (1179 kg) with the top on. The 85 lbs (38 kg) top is removed for racing ( just 2 bolts) which put me at 1,141 kg race weight. I have since removed 40+ kg off the car, but didn't have a chance to put it on scales yet.


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> To be quite blunt I don't really care the TT isnt the car to have for a track toy BUT all credit to people that do I take my hat off to them, love the look.
> 
> 
> 
> I've usually never have much problem with people's view on things, especially when it's clear that they have no experience on the topic. However, statements like the one you posted above always robbed me the wrong way. What makes a TT not the car to have as a track toy?
> 
> The car is cheap to buy and build, short wheelbase, AWD, good handling, turbocharged platform with tons of potential to make big power. If you look at just the spec sheets, it is nothing but a German version of the boost buggys of the same era (EVO, STi). Boost buggies don't impress in stock form, but modifiy them and they have the potential to destroy some big egos and high price machines.
> 
> I have competed at US national level with my TT in SCCA SP (Street Prepared class ) against the best sport cars in that price range. The TT was never outclassed in handling, power, traction moving through several classes. Research or ask anyone that knows about competition and racing and they can tell you how hard it is to trophy at nationals against the best similarly prepped Miatas, MR-2, 3-series BMW, Z3-Z4 BMW, Porsche Boxter in a leveled playing field ... and that's just to name a few. The TT is every bit as capable on track as any of the cars people put on a pedestal or use as gold standard for track use.
> 
> You own a TT because you love the look, I own one because of its track ability. So I would say you know how to make them look good and I know what they are capable of doing at the track.
Click to expand...

I think what Jamman's saying is that for the same or less money you can buy and build a better/equivalent car, which has ot be said over here is very true.

I watched a race series a few weeks ago that my TT is eligble for, the top 4 was made up of 4 independantly run BMW M3's (Beating a couple of scoobs, another TT, Celcia GT4 amongst a few others)... that to me speaks volumes in itself. The TT itself (Again over here) is very limited as to what races it can enter due to it's age/power/AWD setup.

Ideal... no probably not. Doable... most certainly (It's just more of a challenge as Gonz said...i like the challenge!) (Have some credit pints Gonz :wink: ), and also therefore going to cost more (With aftermarket parts harder to find - I don't think anyone can disagree with that!)


----------



## NickG

THAT being said... i would love to prove the haters wrong and build a competitive TT on a tight-ish budget!

Of course i would!


----------



## Sandy

who didn't gives a F*** :roll:


----------



## NickG

Sandy said:


> who didn't gives a F*** :roll:


Tell us again?! :?: :lol:


----------



## Sandy

NickG said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> who didn't gives a F*** :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> Tell us again?! :?: :lol:
Click to expand...

Hold on I'm trying to think [smiley=help.gif] :roll:


----------



## NickG

Sandy said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> who didn't gives a F*** :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> Tell us again?! :?: :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hold on I'm trying to think [smiley=help.gif] :roll:
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## Sandy

NickG said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> who didn't gives a F*** :roll:
> 
> Tell us again?! :?: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Hold on I'm trying to think [smiley=help.gif] :roll:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :lol: :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

 I don't know nick sigh [smiley=end.gif]

There's absolutely no need for it tbh whatever the circumstances.
my car's faster and greener than yours and it has wings so what ffs chill out.


----------



## jamman

Me but I kept getting censored cunts :lol: :lol:

@Nick yes that's exactly what I was saying


----------



## Sandy

naughty naughty :roll: :lol:


----------



## jamman

I really don't see the issue and have always found the rules quite odd would I swear I front of my little
girl no but otherwise I don't really see the problem there's certain words I don't use and never would (n.....) because I find them offensive but other than that it's all gravy.

Rewuest to Max. Do you have any racing videos, brushwood posts quite a few and I always enjoy them


----------



## Sandy

Rules are rules and as this is a public forum no one should read such foul language of aggression unto another as this is what it sounds like IMHO

no offence intended


----------



## jamman

You must be Saint Sandy then

You are aware what FFS means though Sandy which you used in your last post ?

What a f........ joke


----------



## Sandy

jamman said:


> You must be Saint Sandy then
> 
> You are aware what FFS means though Sandy which you used in your last post ?
> 
> What a f........ joke


It was said in jest and not intended to upset anyone as you well know jamman  
gosh :lol:


----------



## CollecTTor

Group hug? Yes, Max has LOTS of videos, and you've now requested the opening of the flood gates. 8)


----------



## jamman

CollecTTor said:


> Group hug? Yes, Max has LOTS of videos, and you've now requested the opening of the flood gates. 8)


bring them on Max (please) and I bet you got some to (please)

Thank you very fecking much :lol:


----------



## Sandy

CollecTTor said:


> Group hug? Yes, Max has LOTS of videos, and you've now requested the opening of the flood gates. 8)


Group hug  non sexual of course :lol:


----------



## NickG

Sandy said:


> non sexual of course :lol:


Well count me out then!!


----------



## Sandy

NickG said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> non sexual of course :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Well count me out then!!
Click to expand...

Spoil sport :-*


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> I think what Jamman's saying is that for the same or less money you can buy and build a better/equivalent car, which has ot be said over here is very true.
> 
> I watched a race series a few weeks ago that my TT is eligble for, the top 4 was made up of 4 independantly run BMW M3's (Beating a couple of scoobs, another TT, Celcia GT4 amongst a few others)... that to me speaks volumes in itself. The TT itself (Again over here) is very limited as to what races it can enter due to it's age/power/AWD setup.
> 
> Ideal... no probably not. Doable... most certainly (It's just more of a challenge as Gonz said...i like the challenge!) (Have some credit pints Gonz :wink: ), and also therefore going to cost more (With aftermarket parts harder to find - I don't think anyone can disagree with that!)


Like I said, I've competed in the against several BMW chassis, not at local but National level with SCCA in the US. They're nothing the TT can't compete against, at a similar price and prep level. As far as chassis is concerned, the MK1 TT has tons of potential

The idea that the TT, requires more effort, or cost more, is not one coming from experience. This is not my first rodeo and I have built several cars before for the same purpose. To be done at the level we're talking about, it is always going to require tons of effort and a decent budget.

Maybe it's different in the UK, but straight chassis examples can be purchased for 1-2 thousand US dollars (if not less) nowadays. Engine will be re-done to the rules, interior will get tossed, and suspension re-done anyway, so it doesn't matter the conditions. The 1.8t motor, being shared by the VW golfs, make performance parts availability very abundant. You can build this engine to make 900 -1,000 HP without having to fabricate a single part, just buying off-the-shelves parts (try doing that in a BMW). My best friend and co-driver is simultaneously building his EVO X for the same SCCA racing class I run the TT. He has spent several time what I have in the TT and has less power, and is at a 400-500 lbs weight deficit (the TT arguably handles better too).

I am not going to pretend to know how difficult or costly it is in the UK to get parts. What I can say from building track cars for as long as I've been in adulthood, building a TT is no different then other more popular track cars in the US.

Top BMW the TT competed against years ago at SCCA Nationals



























My co-driver's EVO built to the same spec as my TT for the same SCCA class. Way more money, and less performance return at this point









And to show that I'm not a total stranger to what it takes to build other brands, some previous track projects I have been involved in

SCCA STU BMW 



























SCCA XP evo that I came from before jumping into a TT


----------



## Sandy

your car must be neck breaking quick Max


----------



## Madmax199

Sandy said:


> your car must be neck breaking quick Max


Well, under 1,150 kg, 350 WHP (or more depending on boost setting), sorted suspension, and lots of rubber under the car. I think such a combo should be quick. Neck breaking, I'm not sure... but that's the goal we're always working at achieving. :mrgreen:


----------



## Trouble4

Madmax199 said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> your car must be neck breaking quick Max
> 
> 
> 
> Well, under 1,150 kg, 350 WHP (or more depending on boost setting), sorted suspension, and lots of rubber under the car. I think such a combo should be quick. Neck breaking, I'm not sure... but that's the goal we're always working at achieving. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

noticed the tyres those in some race environments are not allowed ... is this what you use in motorcross ? or where would it be that you use these ?


----------



## Sandy

Madmax199 said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> 
> your car must be neck breaking quick Max
> 
> 
> 
> Well, under 1,150 kg, 350 WHP (or more depending on boost setting), sorted suspension, and lots of rubber under the car. I think such a combo should be quick. Neck breaking, I'm not sure... but that's the goal we're always working at achieving. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

That's well light and very impressive, shortened suspension I think I've seen your specs and didn't realise this could be done buy I guess it can as you've achieved it 

well done


----------



## Madmax199

Trouble4 said:


> noticed the tyres those in some race environments are not allowed ... is this what you use in motorcross ? or where would it be that you use these ?


Not sure about racing in Europe, but R-compound DOT (Departement OF Transportation) approved race tires are allowed in most classes except for spec and street tire classes. For example, I use Hoosier A6/A7 for Solo/Autocross, time trials -- while the Hoosier R6 is used for circuit racing (slightly harder compound).


----------



## Trouble4

Madmax199 said:


> Trouble4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> noticed the tyres those in some race environments are not allowed ... is this what you use in motorcross ? or where would it be that you use these ?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about racing in Europe, but R-compound DOT (Departement OF Transportation) approved race tires are allowed in most classes except for spec and street tire classes. For example, I use Hoosier A6/A7 for Solo/Autocross, time trials -- while the Hoosier R6 is used for circuit racing (slightly harder compound).
Click to expand...









they would not allow these tyres on the track and yours looked to have a similar design nothing really just curious


----------



## Madmax199

No, the tyres I run are much different in design and applications. They are full race tyres with sticky soft compound and slick surfaces except for a single or two groves for DOT compliance. Even cold, this type of tyres picks up any rocks or debris on the floor because they are super sticky.


















Here is a link to the Hoosier tyres in circuit compound
http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetails ... reModel=R6


----------



## alun

mr madmax... i like the look of those fenDoors (wings) what was the idea of spacing them out from the car. if you trimed the arches to match then it doesnt look like its for wider track/arches. is it for cooling?

i quite like the look of them., not sure they would look ok on my road car though. how did you do them? do you have any pics form the top?


----------



## Madmax199

The idea behind them was to lower drag at track speed, and brake cooling exit. Side effect is the car looks more grown without the silly 50mm of tyres sticking out of the bodywork like before. 8)

It was super easy to do. There is an inward lip on the side skirts that the lower wings bolt to. I just folded that lip outward instead of being inward, and that took care of the bottom.

At the top, the first forward/leading bolt hole is used, the middle is left unused, and the back one is spaced out with a flat spacer with two holes drilled in it (the wing just rotates over the leading bolt).

PS: there are an upper and lower bolts by the door. I intended to space those out as well. But after securing the fender and seeing how solid it is mounted, I just left those unused. I folded the flimsy mounts out of the way for a cleaner look, but that could be reversed by bending them back.

*Before*

















*Now*

















*View from the top*


----------



## Converted2VW

Good to see you posting on this board Max!

The fender mod is looking great. What oil cooler are you using? I'm thinking of adding one as the Texas heat gets more potent everyday. last track day we had a cool 98F...

In thinking of using the stock intercooler location for the oil cooler.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmax199

Hey Luis, I am using a Mocal exchanger and a Jegs sandwich plate. The lines are custom as I also did a secondary remote filter. For your area, which is like hell in the summer, an oil cooler is a must for track use. If you plan on using one of the factory SMIC location, I would recommend adding a pull fan behind the exchanger core because airflow is not guaranteed at all speed like it is in the front bumper area. Cheers!


----------



## alun

thanks for the pics and info, sounds easy to do, i might try it and see what it looks like. although i dont have spacers on my car so might look odd with massivly flaired out arches.


----------



## barb

Loving this build and knowledge, very interested in your roll centre correction kit. Looking to do this with my build.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmax199

I have been asked many times about some track-only mods that I have needed and was forced to do in my car to make it more track ready . This post is about a short list of mods that have made a favorable change in the TT's specific track-ability (For the novices, I also added some tools that can save or salvage a race day).

*1)* Lower rear strut mount through bolt mod. Having seen this fail twice on cars at the track beside mine (another TT and one R32), it is a much safer way of bolting the rear shock absorber lower mount. If you plan on biting the curbing hard at the track, careful as the lower rear shock mount is a potential failure point. Just use a longer high grade bolt and nut.









*2)* Solid aluminium motor mount inserts. Helps transfer and put down all the produced TQ to the wheels instead of wasting some some due to flexing









*3)* Transmission mount plate (solid dogbone delete). This plate gets sandwiched between the gear box and motor then ties into the chassis. Totally removes longitudinal engine movement, and solves the problem of failing dogbone mounts on high TQ applications. 

















*4)* Drilled race thermostat. Allows the engine to run cooler under fully loaded extended racing conditions. Made a big difference in how hard and how long the engine can be pushed at the track. Not suitable for cold or winter driving, and will take longer to warm up for normal summer street driving. 









*5)* Power steering oil cooler. Replaces the standard cooling loop for better power steering fluid temperature control at the track. A must have if you run wide and grippy race tyres (I have boiled the fluid several times in track with lots of sharp corners).

















*6)* External auxiliary brake booster reservoir. Anyone that tracks these cars a lot (especially with more advanced driving levels) will report the lack of brake assist on rapid or repeated brake/throttle applications. This is a result of the booster vaccum being completely depleted and no longer able to provide pedal assist. Any large vaccum tank plumbed into the booster line ("T" directly into booster line near the OEM caniste, and use a dedicated check valve in front of the new reservoir). With this mod, the wooden pedal syndrom at the track will be cured. I use a generic 1.5 liter vaccum tank and the added volume works like a charm at keeping enough vaccum for pedal assist during track driving. It's hard to see in detail but the tank is the black cylinder on the left side of the air filter. (I'll edit with better pics when I get a chance). 









And finally some must-have tools for any TT to carry at the track. Obviously these are overlooked supplemental tools to bringing the common tool box, extra fluids, extra vacuum hoses, clamps of various charge piping sizes, spares, jack, stands, fix-a-flat, VCDS, and compressed air).

Charge pipe and wastegate pressure testers









Brake fluid pressure bleeder. Very common tool to be needed at the track. I fabbed mine out of a big water sprayer instead of using the regular ones that are sold. By doing this I get a bigger container that builds much more pressure with less pump. I also have long reach enabling the operator to bring and use the bleeder next to each caliper (much more convenient for paddock use).


----------



## Icemanfr

Did you do any mod to the hood also as it seems to follow your spaced wing

Love the look of the car but would fit a coupé better 

David


----------



## Madmax199

No, the hood was not modified to match the spaced wing.


----------



## alun

Madmax199 said:


> No, the BONNET was not modified to match the spaced wing.


fixed it for you.... dam mericans


----------



## Madmax199

alun said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, the BONNET was not modified to match the spaced wing.
> 
> 
> 
> fixed it for you.... dam mericans
Click to expand...

 Thank you mate!


----------



## Sandy

Madmax199 said:


> alun said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, the BONNET was not modified to match the spaced wing.
> 
> 
> 
> fixed it for you.... dam mericans
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you mate!
Click to expand...

same difference :lol:


----------



## CollecTTor

alun said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, the BONNET was not modified to match the spaced wing.
> 
> 
> 
> fixed it for you.... dam mericans
Click to expand...

We WEAR boots and KICK things with them, it's not a section of your car. :wink:


----------



## alun

CollecTTor said:


> alun said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, the BONNET was not modified to match the spaced wing.
> 
> 
> 
> fixed it for you.... dam mericans
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We WEAR boots and KICK things with them, it's not a section of your car. :wink:
Click to expand...

interesting, as i thought elephants had trunks.... not cars.


----------



## Madmax199

Intake and induction setup seems to be a hot topic here. Many still believe and go for shielded filters thinking that they're benefiting from possible reduction in intake temperatures. The empirical evidence however shows that unrestricted airflow gives the best results over and over again.

In my quest for the ideal induction system I decided to go with no piping at all and removed my badger5 v3 TIP. The replacement was a custom mushroom filter fitted right on the compressor inlet. I had to make the filter myself because no company offers such a low profile filter. I think I've finally achieved my induction goals with this one (it must be noted that I don't have a need for routing anything back to the turbo with my standalone ECU).

Please excuse the dirty engine bay, this thing needs a good scrubing, but every time I open the bonnet to clean it, I find something better to tackle.


----------



## Sandy

Madmax199 said:


> Intake and induction setup seems to be a hot topic here. Many still believe and go for shielded filters thinking that they're benefiting from possible reduction in intake temperatures. The empirical evidence however shows that unrestricted airflow gives the best results over and over again.
> 
> In my quest for the ideal induction system I decided to go with no piping at all and removed my badger5 v3 TIP. The replacement was a custom mushroom filter fitted right on the compressor inlet. I had to make the filter myself because no company offers such a low profile filter. I think I've finally achieved my induction goals with this one (it must be noted that I don't have a need for routing anything back to the turbo with my standalone ECU).
> 
> Please excuse the dirty engine bay, this thing needs a good scrubing, but every time I open the bonnet to clean it, I find something better to tackle.


This is very true Max, Wak and a few of us put things straight :wink: and others are now realising the open cone is the way but then again the older they get the less noise they want :lol: ptsssssh ptsssssh :mrgreen: no offence to the elder generation


----------



## Von Twinzig

Found the same when developing my 3.2 Carrera turbo. It produced the best figures when the cone filter was attached close to the turbo.....










Unfortunately with an aircooled Porsche engine this placed the filter right low down behind the n/s wheel, resulting in the thing hoovering up small animals. 

As I increased the length of the pipework the power dropped off. This set up took away 30bhp in the dyno....










The final, engine safe incarnation lost around 5bhp, but we made that back with mapping and injectors. Did require some work to the IC to get it all to fit. (See the part added to the rear LH corner to reposition the inlet)










BTW, this IC was calculated as being at least 30% too big (engine made 370bhp and the same lb/ft), so the guys on here saying they need a monster FMIC to control intake temps when they are only around 280-300, must have some other issues. I'll be swapping out my OEM I/C's over the winter, but that's primarily so I can make room for some cold air ducting though the bumper vents for my brakes rather than anything else, and then It'll be the HG one fitted low down so as not to block the water rad.

VT


----------



## Boruki

I was looking at those mushroom filters recently and wondered whether they'd be worth a punt (potentially for the missus Focus as well).

I guess there are good ones and bad ones though, just like all other things.


----------



## Sandy

Von Twinzig said:


> Found the same when developing my 3.2 Carrera turbo. It produced the best figures when the cone filter was attached close to the turbo.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately with an aircooled Porsche engine this placed the filter right low down behind the n/s wheel, resulting in the thing hoovering up small animals.
> 
> As I increased the length of the pipework the power dropped off. This set up took away 30bhp in the dyno....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final, engine safe incarnation lost around 5bhp, but we made that back with mapping and injectors. Did require some work to the IC to get it all to fit. (See the part added to the rear LH corner to reposition the inlet)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, this IC was calculated as being at least 30% too big (engine made 370bhp and the same lb/ft), so the guys on here saying they need a monster FMIC to control intake temps when they are only around 280-300, must have some other issues. I'll be swapping out my OEM I/C's over the winter, but that's primarily so I can make room for some cold air ducting though the bumper vents for my brakes rather than anything else, and then It'll be the HG one fitted low down so as not to block the water rad.
> 
> VT


Maybe it's because we wanna look good behind the lower grill :mrgreen: well that's me anyways :wink:


----------



## Sandy

Boruki said:


> I was looking at those mushroom filters recently and wondered whether they'd be worth a punt (potentially for the missus Focus as well).
> 
> I guess there are good ones and bad ones though, just like all other things.


HKS mushroom filter then :wink:


----------



## V6RUL

HKS Reloaded for me.
You can just see it in front and below my charge-cooler..

Steve


----------



## Madmax199

Von Twinzig said:


> Found the same when developing my 3.2 Carrera turbo. It produced the best figures when the cone filter was attached close to the turbo.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately with an aircooled Porsche engine this placed the filter right low down behind the n/s wheel, resulting in the thing hoovering up small animals.
> 
> As I increased the length of the pipework the power dropped off. This set up took away 30bhp in the dyno....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final, engine safe incarnation lost around 5bhp, but we made that back with mapping and injectors. Did require some work to the IC to get it all to fit. (See the part added to the rear LH corner to reposition the inlet)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, this IC was calculated as being at least 30% too big (engine made 370bhp and the same lb/ft), so the guys on here saying they need a monster FMIC to control intake temps when they are only around 280-300, must have some other issues. I'll be swapping out my OEM I/C's over the winter, but that's primarily so I can make room for some cold air ducting though the bumper vents for my brakes rather than anything else, and then It'll be the HG one fitted low down so as not to block the water rad.
> 
> VT


Awesome post VT! Your results in regards to intake (and intercoolers) are consistent with what I have found on every turbo platform I've owned (several DSM, WRX, RX7, Evo, and now the TT). Somehow, I came to this community in 08 and it's like the Vag stuff developed a parallel universe, the normal laws of physics no longer apply because it's an Audi. Lol

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Madmax199

V6RUL said:


> HKS Reloaded for me.
> You can just see it in front and below my charge-cooler..
> 
> Steve


Hey Steve! I ran the HKS mushrooms as well, they flows like no other, but by compromising filtering ability. There was an old test done by a magazine that put them first in flow and dead last in filtering. That's why they revised the foam core to have a tighter webbing. The old school one with the more open core media are hard to find nowadays, but I love them for track/weekend performance cars (you could almost see light through them that's how open the webbing was).

The only criticism I have with the HKS is that they don't incorporate a real velocity stack in the design. My last set in the TT was basically a modified HKS where I added my own V-stack. Good stuff!

PS: how is the car? I haven't seen you posting progress on vortex in ages


----------



## Sandy

V6RUL said:


> HKS Reloaded for me.
> You can just see it in front and below my charge-cooler..
> 
> Steve


Now that's a lovely engine bay of a V6


----------



## V6RUL

My HKS is of the newer type and the foam is quite substantial.
I chose HKS Reloaded cos of it compactness for the space I had and I have no concerns with its performance.

I've been busy for the last few months offshore ( currently offshore ) and holidays get in the way of progress, but I'm aiming to get some stuff done in October.
Steve


----------



## Alec's TT

Is you power steering cooler in the pressure line? Both of my lines need replaced really bad and was wondering if i could just cut and clamp hose on them and if i add the cooler in which line?


----------



## Madmax199

The power steering cooler is on the low pressure side. High pressure side would need high pressure hose an fittings to handle the loads. Mine is replacing the factory cooling loop tube on the driver's side (US-spec car).


----------



## Mr_Smith

Awesome thread, look forward to seeing some videos of the car in action!


----------



## Madmax199

Oil changed, tank topped with regular pump gas, coolant added to replace the water/water-wetter mix, and the car is ready to be stored away for the racing off season. Plans for the off season:

- replace the standard rearview mirrors with racing ones
- bolt front spliter, build rear diffuser
- add intake cam, upgraded valve springs, and upgraded exhaust valves 
- add brake cooling ducts
- and if Santa is good, get new racing wheels and tyres










Also drove her around all day yesterday, loads of fun!


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Getting aftermarket mirrors can either go really really well... or turn into a catastrophe! What options are you considering so far Max?


----------



## NickG

Rear diffuser you say... Something I'm currently discussing!! Have you done anything with the floor yet?


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Getting aftermarket mirrors can either go really really well... or turn into a catastrophe! What options are you considering so far Max?


Well, it's all about function with the car at this point (if it's not obvious enough with no windows, chopped rag top, zero interior etc.  ) -- so a disaster is something that can be lived with as long as it serves its purpose... which is drag reduction at speed, and better side vision when chasing that apex point on the curbings.

With that said, I'll go with a SPA carbon or the APR equivalent.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oCuVzw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/APR-Performance-C ... B000F9PEA2


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Rear diffuser you say... Something I'm currently discussing!! Have you done anything with the floor yet?


I'm assuming you mean the rear floor pan? I was thinking about cutting the rear spare hump out and welding a flat panel in its place. However after careful inspection, the rear floor in the TT is high enough where this is not required to to get plenty of exit angle on a functional diffuser.

What I did (since there is no muffler or exhaust exit piping in the back) is chop the rear bumper and the hanging vertical metal skirt that protudes from the lower back sheet metal. This prep work allows me to have plenty of room for a 20+ degree angle on my diffuser and plenty of room for 6+ inches strakes.


----------



## NickG

Yep, that's exactly what i'd been pondering today. I've read a lot about 7 degrees being an optimum angle for the diffuser, however this is independent of any rear wing which would need to be considered.

One of those things that'll be trial and error (Unless you have wind tunnel access?!)


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Getting aftermarket mirrors can either go really really well... or turn into a catastrophe! What options are you considering so far Max?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, it's all about function with the car at this point (if it's not obvious enough with no windows, chopped rag top, zero interior etc.  ) -- so a disaster is something that can be lived with as long as it serves its purpose... which is drag reduction at speed, and better side vision when chasing that apex point on the curbings.
> 
> With that said, I'll go with a SPA carbon or the APR equivalent.
> 
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oCuVzw_wcB
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/APR-Performance-C ... B000F9PEA2
Click to expand...

Trying to save what little dignity your TT has bro! lol

But seriously, those aren't too bad, gonna give them a good spray of black paint though right?


----------



## Grahamstt

I had these on my rally car
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... e-mirror-2
The other thing to consider on the rear diffuser idea is that if the rear exhaust is removed the rear valance becomes a bit of an airbrake so smoothing out the flow is a great idea. 
I've been looking at doing mine as I have the twin rear silencer type of system with a gap. 
It worked wonders on escort mk 2's


----------



## hang your idols

I see from your pics you have OEM calipers;what pads are you using?


----------



## Mr_Smith

Hi Max,

I read your _Hybrid Turbo (the Madmax way)_ thread with great interest. Is it possible to port/modify a stock k04 in a similar way, or does it need to be a hybrid?

Thanks


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Trying to save what little dignity your TT has bro! lol
> 
> But seriously, those aren't too bad, gonna give them a good spray of black paint though right?


I am pretty confident that "dignity" in my car is measured in track time and performance. Lol

But seriously, do you have any suggestions for better track tested mirrors? If you have something that's better than "not too bad" I'm all ears. 8)


----------



## Madmax199

Grahamstt said:


> I had these on my rally car
> http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... e-mirror-2
> The other thing to consider on the rear diffuser idea is that if the rear exhaust is removed the rear valance becomes a bit of an airbrake so smoothing out the flow is a great idea.
> I've been looking at doing mine as I have the twin rear silencer type of system with a gap.
> It worked wonders on escort mk 2's


I completely agree! With the back exhaust removed, the rear bumper is a big parachute at speed. I could immediately feel a difference after chopping the lower portion of the bumper. With the diffuser, drag and lift should be reduced a great deal (I hope)!


----------



## Madmax199

hang your idols said:


> I see from your pics you have OEM calipers;what pads are you using?


I use Carbotech XP10 front and XP12 rear for Solo. For circuit racing I swap to XP20 square.

I run the staggered setup for Solo because it makes the car easier to rotate under braking, and the work load is better shared front/back.


----------



## Madmax199

Mr_Smith said:


> Hi Max,
> 
> I read your _Hybrid Turbo (the Madmax way)_ thread with great interest. Is it possible to port/modify a stock k04 in a similar way, or does it need to be a hybrid?
> 
> Thanks


Everything done in that thread is applicable to a stock turbo, and it will help. However, the wheels size (especially the pathetic stock turbine) will always be a limitation. So if you go to town on a plain jane K04, expect a TQ curve that falls flat on its face past mid range and a HP curve matching these intrinsic limitations.


----------



## Mr_Smith

Madmax199 said:


> Everything done in that thread is applicable to a stock turbo, and it will help. However, the wheels size (especially the pathetic stock turbine) will always be a limitation. So if you go to town on a plain jane K04, expect a TQ curve that falls flat on its face past mid range and a HP curve matching these intrinsic limitations.


Appreciate the reply. Good to know I can port out the stock unit in the same way.

With regards to the turbos internals - if I bought an uprated billet cartridge and fitted that after porting etc, I'd be on the right track? You've done the hard work building/testing, I'm looking to emulate your results (albeit on a less grand scale - modest budget!).


----------



## Madmax199

Mr_Smith said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Everything done in that thread is applicable to a stock turbo, and it will help. However, the wheels size (especially the pathetic stock turbine) will always be a limitation. So if you go to town on a plain jane K04, expect a TQ curve that falls flat on its face past mid range and a HP curve matching these intrinsic limitations.
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate the reply. Good to know I can port out the stock unit in the same way.
> 
> With regards to the turbos internals - if I bought an uprated billet cartridge and fitted that after porting etc, I'd be on the right track? You've done the hard work building/testing, I'm looking to emulate your results (albeit on a less grand scale - modest budget!).
Click to expand...

Well that's essentially what a hybrid is, stock turbo frame machined to house uprated internals. If you have the knowledge and resources to do it yourself that's fine, but it's much easier at that point to just get an off-the-shelf hybrid. That is basically what I did, got a standard hybrid and did the work I wanted to it (my shaft and turbine wheel are upgraded, the clearancing is changed to my specs, and I used my own bearings). I could've started from scratch and build my own hybrid, but starting with a pre-existing one makes the task much simpler IMO.


----------



## 3TT3

see pm


----------



## Prawn

Great thread Max, first time I've come across your stuff on a UK forum and had the time to read it all 

I'm interested in the vacuum canister concept. How exactly is that plumbed in?

T-d into the servo vacuum line I see, after the original check valve, but do you run the second check valve in the leg of the T between T and additional reservoir? Suvh that the servo draws from the negative pressure in the reservoir when no further negative pressure is available from the plenum?

I get the wooden pedal symptoms you mention quite frequently, more so on the tight twisty sprint circuit at Curborough than others, which ties in with your suggestions it's most heavily taxed on multiple rapid throttle / brake transitions.

I had been planning to add an electric vacuum pump T-d in, but if a simple additional reservoir will suffice that's a much less complex solution


----------



## NickG

Prawn said:


> Great thread Max, first time I've come across your stuff on a UK forum and had the time to read it all
> 
> I'm interested in the vacuum canister concept. How exactly is that plumbed in?
> 
> T-d into the servo vacuum line I see, after the original check valve, but do you run the second check valve in the leg of the T between T and additional reservoir? Suvh that the servo draws from the negative pressure in the reservoir when no further negative pressure is available from the plenum?
> 
> I get the wooden pedal symptoms you mention quite frequently, more so on the tight twisty sprint circuit at Curborough than others, which ties in with your suggestions it's most heavily taxed on multiple rapid throttle / brake transitions.
> 
> I had been planning to add an electric vacuum pump T-d in, but if a simple additional reservoir will suffice that's a much less complex solution


Welcome to the darkside :twisted:


----------



## CollecTTor

Prawn said:


> Great thread Max, first time I've come across your stuff on a UK forum and had the time to read it all
> 
> I'm interested in the vacuum canister concept. How exactly is that plumbed in?
> 
> T-d into the servo vacuum line I see, after the original check valve, but do you run the second check valve in the leg of the T between T and additional reservoir? Suvh that the servo draws from the negative pressure in the reservoir when no further negative pressure is available from the plenum?
> 
> I get the wooden pedal symptoms you mention quite frequently, more so on the tight twisty sprint circuit at Curborough than others, which ties in with your suggestions it's most heavily taxed on multiple rapid throttle / brake transitions.
> 
> I had been planning to add an electric vacuum pump T-d in, but if a simple additional reservoir will suffice that's a much less complex solution


Have you T'ed the brake booster line into the turbo inlet post MAF (constant vac source)? As long as check valves are in place on the booster line, this will help. If it's not enough, you just plumb in a reservoir with a check valve.


----------



## Madmax199

Prawn said:


> Great thread Max, first time I've come across your stuff on a UK forum and had the time to read it all
> 
> I'm interested in the vacuum canister concept. How exactly is that plumbed in?
> 
> T-d into the servo vacuum line I see, after the original check valve, but do you run the second check valve in the leg of the T between T and additional reservoir? Suvh that the servo draws from the negative pressure in the reservoir when no further negative pressure is available from the plenum?
> 
> I get the wooden pedal symptoms you mention quite frequently, more so on the tight twisty sprint circuit at Curborough than others, which ties in with your suggestions it's most heavily taxed on multiple rapid throttle / brake transitions.
> 
> I had been planning to add an electric vacuum pump T-d in, but if a simple additional reservoir will suffice that's a much less complex solution


Hey Prawn, the extra vacuum tank mod is simple amd the plumbing is basic. You're essentially looking to extend the OEM canister's capacity by adding additional storage. Therefore, the check valve right on the factory canister can be removed, then T the auxiliary reservoir into the line an inch away from the booster/servo outlet -- and finally a check valve placed downstream of both (right in front of the "T" is ideal).

Originally I ran dedicated check valves to each for redundancy and as failsafe in case the auxiliary canister decided to develop a leak. However, after a while I realized it was better to only use one check valve. As you mentioned, when blumbed as separate units with dedicated check valves, the vaccum stored in the auxiliary tank tend to be drawn once the main one runs out. It still works, but you get a slight delay in feel and pedal consistency. Therefore it's better to use one check valve before the T, that way you just turn them into one bigger canister. I would I suggest you use a good metal check valve unit instead of the plastic Vag stuff that loves to fail.

As CollecTTor pointed out, you could also get a constant vacuum supply from the turbo inlet. I ran this successfully when I was on the stock turbo and TIP. The vacuum draw was strong enough to always supply the system with needed vacuum. Once I moved to a hybrid with large TIP (80mm), the vacuum draw was not as strong as it used to be (less restrictions=less vacuum). Therefore I would find a few tight and technical spots on the track where the wooden pedal would be lightly felt, and I had to simply add more vacuum storage to totally solve the issue. In your case and setup, I would say to just add the extra storage. A vaccum pump adds weight and complexity when extra storage is all that is needed.

It's funny, out of all the people using this plafform at the track, you're the 3rd person besides me that pushes the car hard enough to notice and experience these shortcomings. It was one of the first thing I had to address when I first started tracking the car, almost undriveable if you're quick with pedal inputs because you randomly loose the brake assist (which makes it unpredictable and sometimes dangerous).

So you have an idea of size and volume, my auxiliary storage tank is that black bottle on the upper right hand side of the pic (around where the stock airbox or filter would be). I'd say 1.5l - 2l should give you enough storage to never loose the brake assist.


----------



## Prawn

Madmax199 said:


> Hey Prawn, the extra vacuum tank mod is simple amd the plumbing is basic. You're essentially looking to extend the OEM canister's capacity by adding additional storage. Therefore, the check valve right on the factory canister can be removed, then T the auxiliary reservoir into the line an inch away from the booster/servo outlet -- and finally a check valve placed downstream of both (right in front of the "T" is ideal).
> 
> Originally I ran dedicated check valves to each for redundancy and as failsafe in case the auxiliary canister decided to develop a leak. However, after a while I realized it was better to only use one check valve. As you mentioned, when blumbed as separate units with dedicated check valves, the vaccum stored in the auxiliary tank tend to be drawn once the main one runs out. It still works, but you get a slight delay in feel and pedal consistency. Therefore it's better to use one check valve before the T, that way you just turn them into one bigger canister. I would I suggest you use a good metal check valve unit instead of the plastic Vag stuff that loves to fail.
> 
> It's funny, out of all the people using this plafform at the track, you're the 3rd person besides me that pushes the car hard enough to notice and experience these shortcomings. It was one of the first thing I had to address when I first started tracking the car, almost undriveable if you're quick with pedal inputs because you randomly loose the brake assist (which makes it unpredictable and sometimes dangerous).


Great info Max, thanks again.

it's been an issue for me for a long time, and if I'm honest, it's something I've sort of learnt to drive around the most of the time, but it's always held me back and reared it's ugly head when you least want it. I originally put it down to a leaking check valve, but replacing these didn't solve the issue, hence the previous plan to install a pump setup.

It's much more of an issue on short tight sprint courses where I'm usually 2 pedalling it the whole way round, with zero transition time between throttle and brake. On larger open tracks I've conditioned myself to allow a fraction of a second gap after letting off to allow the servo to charge, but on those occasional 'red mist' moments that goes out of the window, and you're left with the wooden pedal of doom!

I'll look and see what I can find as a potential canister and plumb it in before the first sprint in May.

I've just started reading through your suspension setup thread too, some very interesting into in there  I'll try and add some of my thoughts over the weekend, but I think you're way ahead of me on that aspect.


----------



## CollecTTor

Yes, it's never reared it's ugly head for me, but I mostly play on larger tracks compared to the auto-x duty Max enjoys. Tight and technical will for sure cause issues.


----------



## Prawn

I wonder if the VAG parts bin had a suitable answer?

http://carparts4sale.com/lh-vacuum-rese ... 1-cp021983

These are very readily available over here, there's one on eBay less than 10 mins from my house for £10!

Not sure on capacity, I may have to go and buy it and work out if there is anywhere I can easily mount it in my bay.

Any other suggestions for a suitable canister welcome


----------



## Von Twinzig

Looks and sounds overly complicated. Most of the racers over here dump all that off and run a pedal box with adjustable bias, get's rid of all the uncertainly.

This seasons Scoobie setup....










VT


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Yes, it's never reared it's ugly head for me, but I mostly play on larger tracks compared to the auto-x duty Max enjoys. Tight and technical will for sure cause issues.


Happens to me at the open track too. It comes down to the driving level and speed you're switching from pedal to pedal. When moving quickly from gas to throttle back and forth you will deplete the booster reserve. For me it's even worse because I left-foot-brake many corners, so the car is undriveable without a solution or compromising with a less advanced driving technique.


----------



## Madmax199

Prawn said:


> I wonder if the VAG parts bin had a suitable answer?
> 
> http://carparts4sale.com/lh-vacuum-rese ... 1-cp021983
> 
> These are very readily available over here, there's one on eBay less than 10 mins from my house for £10!
> 
> Not sure on capacity, I may have to go and buy it and work out if there is anywhere I can easily mount it in my bay.
> 
> Any other suggestions for a suitable canister welcome


This will work fine! Not sure of the capacity, but any vacuum tank with a secure fitting that won't leak will do the job fine.


----------



## Madmax199

Von Twinzig said:


> Looks and sounds overly complicated.
> 
> VT


Overly complicated? But a standalone brake system with super expensive pedal box isn't? You're loosing me here! Lol

Adding an auxiliary vacuum reservoir is an old trick and the easiest thing to perform. One T fitting, a reservoir, and moving the check valve before the T. Done! Can be done in 10 minutes with bathroom break.

The implications with a standalone braking system is however what sounds complicated with a TT.

1) We rely on ABS for Haldex functionality

2) integration of the drive by wire pedal into a race pedal box

3) Plumbing, master cylinder size calculation is not a task for the challenged

4) racing rule regulations only accepts such mods in prepared classes, so unless you plan to bring everything in the car to prepared level, you can kiss being competitive in-class good by!

4) Cost! Cost! Cost! Why throw such a dent in the racing budget when there is a simple and very effective $50 solution?


----------



## Matt B

Lee has just fitted Sheldons TT with a pedal box. I have seen what he has done and it's a work of art but it's not for the feint hearted.


----------



## Madmax199

Matt B said:


> Lee has just fitted Sheldons TT with a pedal box. I have seen what he has done and it's a work of art but it's not for the feint hearted.


Yeah, I know! I've done it before to a car at work. It is one of the most involved project I've tackled... and said car had cable-driven throttle.

Do you know if the drive-by-wire system was retained or is the car on a standalone engine management? Would love to see pics and details of it if there is a build thread.


----------



## Matt B

Madmax199 said:


> Matt B said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lee has just fitted Sheldons TT with a pedal box. I have seen what he has done and it's a work of art but it's not for the feint hearted.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know! I've done it before to a car at work. It is one of the most involved project I've tackled... and said car had cable-driven throttle.
> 
> Do you know if the drive-by-wire system was retained or is the car on a standalone engine management? Would love to see pics and details of it if there is a build thread.
Click to expand...

Hi max - lee is the technical guru who does all the work on my car - Sheldon Overs car is being built by him at the moment gtx 3076r build and one of the things he is doing is the 4 pot rear caliper hence the pedal box. I am really sure he will post a shed load of photos in here when it's done. And this is on stock ECU not standalone


----------



## Madmax199

Small update of what I've been up to with the car during off season:

Made some composite headlight block offs. They save 15lbs of polar weight (also high above the center of gravity) and can be bolted on the car at the track in less than 5 min (headlights are modified to be able to come out with 2 bolts each and without removing the front bumper).


























Also got most of the work done on my rear diffuser project. Center section fabricated and mounts made. Need to extend my end strakes, and fill the upper gap with aluminium or ABS plastic, but it's mainly sorted now.


----------



## CollecTTor

Do WORK! 8)


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Do WORK! 8)


Well, some more of that! 

Made some progress with the diffuser project today. Large plates mounted, braced, and painted -- also added some extra bracing to the diffuser. I was able to stand on it at the center, it bowed slightly but took the weight like a champ, so I know it can take some abuse. Going with some ABS plastic to fill the gap. Easy to form, and will look clean. Real happy with how it turned out overall.


----------



## 1781cc

do you trailer or drive to the track on the roads? I only ask because if you drive I am sure that small animals are going to get sucked into that thing! lol

Looks brutal - have you done any aero testing on this?


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> do you trailer or drive to the track on the roads? I only ask because if you drive I am sure that small animals are going to get sucked into that thing! lol
> 
> Looks brutal - have you done any aero testing on this?


I drive to local track, but trailer everywhere else. If that's going to happen, I think it will suck small animals even on the trailer. :lol:

I haven't done any testing on the new aero package yet. Working on the front splitter next, then it will be testing and tuning time.


----------



## Madmax199

Headlight deletes mounted:


----------



## CollecTTor

It looks....evil. :twisted:


----------



## Boruki

Hey Max,

I was wondering what you did to your headlights to make them easier to remove? I'd like to be able to do remove mine more easily but want to keep them solid so would appreciate input.


----------



## NickG

Looking good Max, but more importantly, looking light!


----------



## Madmax199

Boruki said:


> Hey Max,
> 
> I was wondering what you did to your headlights to make them easier to remove? I'd like to be able to do remove mine more easily but want to keep them solid so would appreciate input.


To make it easy to remove, the ear going towards the grill needs to be cut off. Unfortunately, that's the only way. Is it solid after that? Definitely! I have had mine cut for a long time and never had any issues (potholes, track abuse and all). In other words, if your upper tabs and outer pop-in ball/socket are in good shape, there is nothing to worry about. Really makes removing the headlights a breeze (both can be out in less than 5 min).


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> Boruki said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Max,
> 
> I was wondering what you did to your headlights to make them easier to remove? I'd like to be able to do remove mine more easily but want to keep them solid so would appreciate input.
> 
> 
> 
> To make it easy to remove, the ear going towards the grill needs to be cut off. Unfortunately, that's the only way. Is it solid after that? Definitely! I have had mine cut for a long time and never had any issues (potholes, track abuse and all). In other words, if your upper tabs and outer pop-in ball/socket are in good shape, there is nothing to worry about. Really makes removing the headlights a breeze (both can be out in less than 5 min).
Click to expand...

And.....

....WEIGHT SAVING!! :twisted:


----------



## Boruki

Oh wow, could probably do that while fitted . Cheers Max. A pair of those tabs probably save enough weight to stop looking for anything else to go!


----------



## CollecTTor

Boruki said:


> Oh wow, could probably do that while fitted . Cheers Max. A pair of those tabs probably save enough weight to stop looking for anything else to go!


I
Yes, you can access that bolt through the grill, but it's so long, you still can't remove it without getting the bumper off.


----------



## Madmax199

Boruki said:


> Oh wow, could probably do that while fitted . Cheers Max. A pair of those tabs probably save enough weight to stop looking for anything else to go!


Yes, it can be done while fitted. I did one whith the headlight removed, and the second surgery was performed at the track with it installed.


----------



## Madmax199

We had more nice weather today in NY, so got to play with the car some more. Basically finished rear, it still need to be painted and with some minor adjusting, but it's where I wanted it to be.










And a shot from underneath (before sealing the gap)


----------



## Gonzalo1495

I would pay to see you drive it on the street and record reactions from people driving by.

My personal reaction if I were to see this on the road would be "nope", and find the nearest place to make a U-turn :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> I would pay to see you drive it on the street and record reactions from people driving by.
> 
> My personal reaction if I were to see this on the road would be "nope", and find the nearest place to make a U-turn :lol:


Follow me and start recording... that's if you can keep up! :mrgreen:


----------



## Madmax199

And it begins! Now that my rear diffuser is finished, time to focus on the front with a functional splitter. 4x8 sheet of alumalite (enough to also make a spare), and some adjustable spoiler struts are on order. Should be fun!!!


----------



## NickG

Not sure if i've missed it, but do you run entirely without the front crashbar? (And rear for that matter)


----------



## Madmax199

Yes, Nick, these things are long gone! If it's not functional to on-track performance, it's not on the car. The front crash bar helps with chassis rigidity, but it's redundant with the lower SMIC tube/brace -- so I decided to run with the the IC tube over the front crash bar. Cheers!


----------



## CollecTTor

Madmax199 said:


> Yes, Nick, these things are long gone! If it's not functional to on-track performance, it's not on the car. The front crash bar helps with chassis rigidity, but it's redundant with the lower SMIC tube/brace -- so I decided to run with the the IC tube over the front crash bar. Cheers!


Just don't get rear ended on the way to the track. I had that happen to my GTI, with no rear bumper support.


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Nick, these things are long gone! If it's not functional to on-track performance, it's not on the car. The front crash bar helps with chassis rigidity, but it's redundant with the lower SMIC tube/brace -- so I decided to run with the the IC tube over the front crash bar. Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Just don't get rear ended on the way to the track. I had that happen to my GTI, with no rear bumper support.
Click to expand...

I think that if I get rear ended, I have bigger worries than the possible damage the crash bar could or could not have prevented. At this point in the game, a TT is so cheap that loosing a shell os not really an issue. I was even thinking of doing a clone coupe rolling chassis and swapping from one to another when the ADD kicks in!


----------



## CollecTTor

Madmax199 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Nick, these things are long gone! If it's not functional to on-track performance, it's not on the car. The front crash bar helps with chassis rigidity, but it's redundant with the lower SMIC tube/brace -- so I decided to run with the the IC tube over the front crash bar. Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Just don't get rear ended on the way to the track. I had that happen to my GTI, with no rear bumper support.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think that if I get rear ended, I have bigger worries than the possible damage the crash bar could or could not have prevented. At this point in the game, a TT is so cheap that loosing a shell os not really an issue. I was even thinking of doing a clone coupe rolling chassis and swapping from one to another when the ADD kicks in!
Click to expand...

  I know someone with a few coupes. Lol


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> I know someone with a few coupes. Lol


Stop tempting me! I almost picked one up from DougLobue which is as much as a TT collector as you are.


----------



## Madmax199

Splitter is cut and mounted. I actually did two versions, one that is class-legal for SCCA F-Prepared and a wider/bigger one for open track days, time attack etc. The hardest part was making chassis-mounted mounts that are structurally sound and able to take the load that will be placed on them at speed. I am waiting on some adjustable struts/support rods to properly brace the overhang, but as it sits it's solid and I can stand on it. After that, it needs painting and rubber edging to finish off the rough cut. Not bad for a day's worth of toying around!


----------



## Madmax199

Painted with rubber edging added:


----------



## Madmax199

Forward over-fender flaring (needs finishing/painting):



























Air filter fresh air feed:


















Tow straps:


----------



## 1781cc

What a beast! loving some of the work that you are doing with this car


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> What a beast! loving some of the work that you are doing with this car


Thank-you! She's coming along nicely, but still has a lot more work to do.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

What material did you use for the front splitter? Is it actually capable of withstanding a lot of force, i.e. can you stand on it?

Looks good, I'd love to see some maf logs with the air feed blocked and with it flowing to the turbo to see if it makes any difference?


----------



## V6RUL

Isn't he mafless..
Steve


----------



## Gonzalo1495

V6RUL said:


> Isn't he mafless..
> Steve


Hmmm good point. :lol: Maybe log IAT then and see if there's a noticeable change in temp lol.


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> What material did you use for the front splitter? Is it actually capable of withstanding a lot of force, i.e. can you stand on it?


Splitter is alumalite which is a corrugated core sandwiched in between two sheets of aluminium. It is very strong for it's weight and designed to take some serious abuse. See post below for the initial bracing I made for it, I also added some more triangulating braces and 4 forward support struts. The thing is not going anywhere unless I hit or crach with it.



Madmax199 said:


> The hardest part was making chassis-mounted mounts that are structurally sound and able to take the load that will be placed on them at speed. I am waiting on some adjustable struts/support rods to properly brace the overhang,* but as it sits it's solid and I can stand on it*!


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> V6RUL said:
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't he mafless..
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm good point. :lol: Maybe log IAT then and see if there's a noticeable change in temp lol.
Click to expand...

Yep, no MAF (or any other restrictions) for me on the intake. The point was to supply the area around the filter with some fresh air while moving. Not that it'll make a big difference in power, but it can't hurt and the air flowing over the car is free. I will test IAT temp with or without when ambient temp gets warmer around here.


----------



## NickG

Looking awesome Max, love the tow strap idea at the back, why did you use as a decent mounting point?


----------



## Madmax199

Nick, I used the frame where the rear crash bar used to bolt to (that way I know it's structural).


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> Nick, I used the frame where the rear crash bar used to bolt to (that way I know it's structural).


Brilliant, thanks dude 8)


----------



## jamman

I like the cold air feed a lot.


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> I like the cold air feed a lot.


Thanks, it's quite groovy looking!


----------



## Madmax199

1.4 kg lithium lightweight battery to replace the already-light 6.8 Kg one I have used for years -- so 5.4 Kg closer to light.


----------



## NickG

I saw the stark power ones when I was researching, couldn't find a UK supplier however and didn't want to pay crazy money to import... You'll have to let me know how it goes for you!


----------



## CollecTTor

Who'd you buy that used battery from? 8)


----------



## Gonzalo1495

CollecTTor said:


> Who'd you buy that used battery from? 8)


Some young buck on the forums who sells used parts for BJs. Can't remember his name tho. :lol: :wink:


----------



## Madmax199

CollecTTor said:


> Who'd you buy that used battery from? 8)


Scored it off a trade with Steve (Spartiati), and battery is practically unused. He needed some front control arm delrin bushings from me, and had the battery laying around!



Gonzalo1495 said:


> Some young buck on the forums who sells used parts for BJs. Can't remember his name tho. :lol: :wink:


I keep telling you to stop doing that, parts are not worth your BJs. At this rate you'll run out of people to blow to finish your build! :mrgreen:


----------



## CollecTTor

:lol:


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> Nick, I used the frame where the rear crash bar used to bolt to (that way I know it's structural).


Rubbish question - What size bolt did you need to attach the rear tow strap? I love the idea and want to steal it as a little project this long bank holiday weekend, Shops shut so want to make sure ive got the right hardware to mount it properly!


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nick, I used the frame where the rear crash bar used to bolt to (that way I know it's structural).
> 
> 
> 
> Rubbish question - What size bolt did you need to attach the rear tow strap? I love the idea and want to steal it as a little project this long bank holiday weekend, Shops shut so want to make sure ive got the right hardware to mount it properly!
Click to expand...

Nick, just used a the 13mm bolts that are used to hold the factory crach bar to the frame.


----------



## NickG

Cheers dude... Should have been obvious really! :lol:


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> Who'd you buy that used battery from? 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Some young buck on the forums who sells used parts for BJs. Can't remember his name tho. :lol: :wink:
Click to expand...

That's reminds me Gonzy how is your mum :wink:

(joke mate)


----------



## Madmax199

Not much of an update, but removed the rest of the sound deadening bitumen across the car. Major PITA for not much in return (5.4 kg for a couple hours of cursing and cleaning), but glad that's behind me.

Best method for me was the heat gun and a sraper. Comes out cleanly in patches..

















Bag of patches of that junk removed 









Fresh front rubber turned up, and going to get mounted on a pair of 7.7 kg Enkei RPF1s. 









Moved the small lithium battery back to the front. It was making no sense anymore to relocate to the back when the battery is so light and having the relocation hardware weighing more than the battery itself. Will have to rethink and redo my battery cutoff switches, but that will wait for later. Another 2kg removed!


----------



## 1781cc

do you just leave the bitumen residue in the car? I find it so amusing how small your battery is... I want one


----------



## Madmax199

No, the goo residue is cleaned up, primered, then painted black.

This is what I used, and it works great at breaking it down









One round of that tar remover stuff with a scotchbrite side of a sponge and you're left with semi clean surface. See the floor section in this pic









Here is a pic of a small patch wiped clean









Big things come in small packages nowadays with the lithium battery technology. They pack some serious punch for how light and small they are. The way forward with automotive batteries.


----------



## Von Twinzig

1781cc said:


> ...... I find it so amusing how small your battery is... I want one


The Anti Gravity one over here that would start and run our (track) cars weighs 0.75kg. Not cheap though and if you're not paying attention and it fully discharges you are fooked. My heavy PC680 lay dead in the garage for over 4 years, yet my Ctek gradually resuscitated it and it's back in the new track project. Nevertheless, lithium power is on my shopping list.

VT


----------



## Madmax199

Von Twinzig said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...... I find it so amusing how small your battery is... I want one
> 
> 
> 
> The Anti Gravity one over here that would start and run our (track) cars weighs 0.75kg. Not cheap though and if you're not paying attention and it fully discharges you are fooked. My heavy PC680 lay dead in the garage for over 4 years, yet my Ctek gradually resuscitated it and it's back in the new track project. Nevertheless, lithium power is on my shopping list.
> 
> VT
Click to expand...

The popular ones and the one I am using are smart batteries in the sense that they have built-in microprocessor and board called battery management system (BMS). These BMS smart batteries control and regulate voltage across the cells to maintain a perfect duty balance. They also have what is called restart control, the one in the battery I use is called "IQ Restart Technology". What they do is monitor and cut the discharge if you leave any parasitic draw or electronics running while the battery is not being recharged.

This cool little internal gizmo basically guarantees there is enough juice stored for your next restart no matter what you do. It's obviously within limits as any battery has its natural self-discharge rate (and there is no way around that) -- it does help however that the discharge rate is 8% monthly for Lithium batteries vs 20% on a modern AGM battery. This pretty much takes care of a couple of months of inactivity and being able to restart the car (unless you initially turned it off with very low charge, say with a failing alternator that struggled to recharge the battery properly). Pretty cool little things!!!

If you use them wisely and as intented, I don't see any drawbacks to these vs the old technology!


----------



## Madmax199

Latest mod, raising the shifter box! It's something I've been wanting to do for a while in the TT, and I don't know why it took me so long to get it done. Shifting at the track while cornering can become interesting due to the distance between the steering and the low shift lever with box mounted under the tunnel.

It's a common and easy mod on most car, but as usual it's a bit more complicated in the TT. Our shifter box is bottom mounted with the cables going under the tunnel. So in order to raise the box, exhaust and propeller shaft need to be dropped, and a firewall hole is required for the cables. Once that's done, it's a matter of raising the shift box to the desired height. For me this comes at about 3" higher than stock, and that makes a world of a difference. Shifting is easier, more fluid and natural... the way it was intended to be if you look at the interior pics of the original TT concept. It won't make the car faster, but will without a doubt make driving it fast much easier and consistent.

Standard box dropped









New placement

















Raised box


----------



## Gonzalo1495

What's up with that bracelet man? Or should I say, Mahhhn :wink:


----------



## NickG

Looking good dude! It's something I'll be interested to look into, strapped in tightly with the new harnesses means it's a good reach to the gear stick now! (A sequential would be nice, got a spare few grand?!)


----------



## 1781cc

Its weird, I quite like where the shifter is at the moment, I've driven a few cars with a higher shifter - including an integral R and I find it very unnatural, I can see how it would work for some people but I think I would find it odd, just like the paddles in my S8, they are there, but I never use them


----------



## NickG

1781cc said:


> Its weird, I quite like where the shifter is at the moment, I've driven a few cars with a higher shifter - including an integral R and I find it very unnatural, I can see how it would work for some people but I think I would find it odd, just like the paddles in my S8, they are there, but I never use them


I had a Civ Type-R that had the dash mounted gearstick, it was strange for all of 2 days and then was just normal! Never driven a flappy paddle car on the road, i imagine the novelty wears off pretty quickly?


----------



## 1781cc

NickG said:


> 1781cc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Its weird, I quite like where the shifter is at the moment, I've driven a few cars with a higher shifter - including an integral R and I find it very unnatural, I can see how it would work for some people but I think I would find it odd, just like the paddles in my S8, they are there, but I never use them
> 
> 
> 
> I had a Civ Type-R that had the dash mounted gearstick, it was strange for all of 2 days and then was just normal! Never driven a flappy paddle car on the road, i imagine the novelty wears off pretty quickly?
Click to expand...

It does, when I first got it thought I was an F1 driver lol, howling the v10 everywhere, holding gears till the 7500rpm redline, just blasting, but its actually not that kind of car, its more of a GT in the way it annihilates distances comfortably, the paddles don't see fingers at all now.

I did toy with a CAI shifter initially but it would have been purely cosmetic because I love the way it looks - I don't like the price tag though...



http://www.shop.cae-racing.de/index.php?a=64&lang=eng

Madmax, you got the same effect and saved the $$$


----------



## NickG

That does look cool, but it doesn't warrant £800 for the benefit of that! :lol:


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> This is a TT that races at Castle Coombe abd has some sort of tunnel extension but is the bit on the top the same as yours?


That's a pretty hefty tunnel extension!


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> Its weird, I quite like where the shifter is at the moment, I've driven a few cars with a higher shifter - including an integral R and I find it very unnatural, I can see how it would work for some people but I think I would find it odd, just like the paddles in my S8, they are there, but I never use them


The shifter in the TT is fine for normal driving. Cornering and shifting at the track is a different story however. For me, most of the time, and even with both hands on the wheel, I'm fighting to keep the beast under control -- when you add the shifting element and having to let go and find that shifter, it can get interesting! It is a universally common mod with all platforms that are raced, the closer the lever is to the wheel, the easier and more consistent shifting will be with less chance of missing/grinding a gear.

I am more familiar with the evo platform than anything else, so here is the same mod with the CT9a:

Standard









Raised


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> I did toy with a CAI shifter initially but it would have been purely cosmetic because I love the way it looks - I don't like the price tag though...
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.shop.cae-racing.de/index.php?a=64&lang=eng
> 
> Madmax, you got the same effect and saved the $$$





NickG said:


> That does look cool, but it doesn't warrant £800 for the benefit of that! :lol:


Yeah, I've seen this one before and if I'm going to spend that much I'll go for a sequential shift box. It really doesn't have to be fancy or expensive, just raise the standard box which is suberb in its throw. I did the mod in a couple of hours and it cost me nothing.



NickG said:


> brushwood69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is a TT that races at Castle Coombe abd has some sort of tunnel extension but is the bit on the top the same as yours?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a pretty hefty tunnel extension!
Click to expand...

That's nice, the knob placement is perfect! I am waiting on a rod extension from Noah Decker at Phenix engineering, and it will put my knob in a similar position.


----------



## Madmax199

Relocated my boost controller in the cabin. Now I can dial and raise the level of insanity while still strapped behind the wheel. This will come in handy for various levels of grip available at the track, changing conditions. I can also start track sessions at moderate boost and dial more as I get in the zone, before it was all or nothing and beginning of sessions felt like an exercise in taming the beast.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Does that added length of tubing affect anything? Or does it just require a longer time to fill that extra space with pressure?


----------



## Madmax199

Slightly! A tenth of a second delay here and there. But remember that with wastegate/boost control everything is in reverse, delays in the pressure signal means wastegate stays closed longer (aka more boost before exhaust bypass). For someone like myself that's not necessarily a drawback. Heck, I remember back in the day using 20 ft loops of lines and boost/restrictor pills to get DSM wastegates to stay closed long enough at onset with 40+ psi.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> Slightly! A tenth of a second delay here and there. But remember that with wastegate/boost control everything is in reverse, delays in the pressure signal means wastegate stays closed longer (aka more boost before exhaust bypass). For someone like myself that's not necessarily a drawback. Heck, I remember back in the day using 20 ft loops of lines and boost/restrictor pills to get DSM wastegates to stay closed long enough at onset with 40+ psi.


Oh wow, I completely overlooked that aspect. That is actually pretty ingenius :lol:.

A tenth of a second is no big deal when compared to more boost in the top end of the power band. Especially for someone who very rarely is at the bottom end of the power band such as yourself :wink:


----------



## Madmax199

Some suspension porn:


----------



## Von Twinzig

Oooh, nice _and_ super light. 8) Is it rude to ask the price......and could they be made available this side of the pond d'ya think Max? :wink:

VT


----------



## Madmax199

Pricing is set at $650 Canadian dollars which is about 325 GBP. I believe Fred will ship anywhere in the world. PM me if interested! 
http://www.fmfabrication.ca/apps/websto ... ow/6261325


----------



## NickG

I wonder if we could do a groupbuy/send to the uk?!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Save on the P&P too maybe?

VT


----------



## Madmax199

I am coming to Europe next month, I can get you guys a special group pricing and ship everything from Italy. I can only bring about 5. I can also bring a few set of my rear tie bars (and maybe few sets of delrin bushings for those that still want to use the OEM control arms). Let me know!


----------



## John-H

If memory serves me correctly my Escort really car had a really long sick to bring the knob close to the steering wheel but also a raised pivot ball joint to reduce the knob throw needed - effectively an extended quick shift. Worked well and cheap.


----------



## Madmax199

John-H said:


> If memory serves me correctly my Escort really car had a really long sick to bring the knob close to the steering wheel but also a raised pivot ball joint to reduce the knob throw needed - effectively an extended quick shift. Worked well and cheap.


Hi John, you are bang on that an extended shift knob rod/lever would work best with a shortened throw (and that's how it's done on most car like you mentioned). In our case with the TT, it's a bit unique because the car already has a very short throw from the factory -- and this method also does not alter the lever/rod length, but rather raises the whole assembly. Done this way, there is really no need IMO to alter the throw as it remained identical to how it was beforehand. Really love the way it is now, night and day better for Motorpsorts. Cheers!


----------



## Madmax199

Doing my alignment today with the new tubular front control arm. It's really nice to be able to set caster and camber exactly where I want. I also went one step further and ventured into dialing some anti-dive and pro-lift into it! Never thought I would have the ability to do this in a MK1 TT... exciting time to be running this platform!


----------



## Madmax199

Alignment done with front camber dialed!


----------



## NickG

Nice! :twisted:

Out of interest, what's the weight difference over OEM wishbones?


----------



## Madmax199

Nick, they tipped the scales at 3.1 Kg a piece, while the OEM ones are 4.3 Kg.


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> Nick, they tipped the scales at 3.1 Kg a piece, while the OEM ones are 4.3 Kg.


Cool, thanks! 8)


----------



## Von Twinzig

Nice Max. Minus 2kg at the difficult end. 

VT


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> brushwood69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great write up and loads of interesting developments and good to get another race perspective on the TT.
> 
> 1. Why choose the roadster?
> 2. What is the Gonzo GTT-x hybrid turbo? K04 based?
> 3. Can we get a close up of the wing modification?
> 4. How have you modified the camber correction bit?
Click to expand...

Like Gonzalo said, the turbo is a K04-based hybrid sold in the USA by GTS tuning. Pretty good bit of a kit as it includes hardware and sofware in one package from the same company. As pointed out, the roadster literally fell on my lap, so I did not choose it... it choosed me.

Front camber is handled both at top with a custom plate, and at the bottom via the ball joint placement (in relation to the standard mounting position). The combo allows me upwards of negative 5 degrees of static camber compensation. In the back, I use my own Madmax adjustable tie bars. So yes, all camber correction bits have been modified.

Here is a close up view of the wing modification. It is spaced out 50mm with the arch lip trimmed up about the same about 









Max! A few questions;

1) What have you done to space the wing out?
2) how does the bonnet still sit flush with it after spacing?!
3) have you cut the arch around the wheel where there used to be a change to vertical on the edge?!


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> The idea behind them was to lower drag at track speed, and brake cooling exit. Side effect is the car looks more grown without the silly 50mm of tyres sticking out of the bodywork like before. 8)
> 
> It was super easy to do. There is an inward lip on the side skirts that the lower wings bolt to. I just folded that lip outward instead of being inward, and that took care of the bottom.
> 
> At the top, the first forward/leading bolt hole is used, the middle is left unused, and the back one is spaced out with a flat spacer with two holes drilled in it (the wing just rotates over the leading bolt).
> 
> PS: there are an upper and lower bolts by the door. I intended to space those out as well. But after securing the fender and seeing how solid it is mounted, I just left those unused. I folded the flimsy mounts out of the way for a cleaner look, but that could be reversed by bending them back.
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *View from the top*


Found a little more info while trawling through! Any close ups would be good though!


----------



## kane

Great build Max. I have a question about the expansion chamber in your exhaust. Was that on your initial set up or did you add it later so you can tell how much difference it made? How big is the chamber, and why? :wink: 
I've read a lot about the subjekt but it's easier to ask a guy with the same car and limitations how it's working for him than going into reading up on turbin technology :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Found a little more info while trawling through! Any close ups would be good though!


Here are a few more pics I have Nick. Sorry I didn't take detailed pics when doing it because I didn't think it was a mod that anyone would be interested in.










Here you can see from the top how the wings are spaced out from their standard mounting points.


----------



## Madmax199

kane said:


> Great build Max. I have a question about the expansion chamber in your exhaust. Was that on your initial set up or did you add it later so you can tell how much difference it made? How big is the chamber, and why? :wink:
> I've read a lot about the subjekt but it's easier to ask a guy with the same car and limitations how it's working for him than going into reading up on turbin technology :lol:


The expansion chambered downpipe has been in since I was on the stock turbo. It was added by itself, therefore I have a good grasp of how it affected performance. The main goal with these expansion chambers is to reduce/alleviate turbine-exit restriction. Since our small frame K03/K04/Hybrids choke down past peak TQ, my initial aim was to help flow up top by removing some of the inherent restriction. To my surprise, it did more than that -- besides allowing more flow up top as expected, the mod also improved things throughout the rev range. Improvement in spool characteristics was obvious from the drive after the mod. There was more and quicker boost even down low, and that was a surprise to me. It almost felt like moving to a slightly different turbo.

The chamber is about 400mm in length and measures 4" (102mm) in diameter. It transitions from 3.5" off the turbine to the 4", then back to 3.5". Why? Mainly because of the space restrictions in the tunnel and the proximity of the manifold to the turbine housing. I would have liked to go up to 4" straight from the turbine, but that's not physically possible and a small 3.5" transition piece is needed to clear the manifold.

Transition piece from short 3.5" primary to 4" flange










How tight the clearance is


















How it all plays nice together on the car


















Litterature that explains the process










How the expansion chamber allow slow and restrictive spiraling flow out of a turbine to transition to fast-moving turbulent flow


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great build Max. I have a question about the expansion chamber in your exhaust. Was that on your initial set up or did you add it later so you can tell how much difference it made? How big is the chamber, and why? :wink:
> I've read a lot about the subjekt but it's easier to ask a guy with the same car and limitations how it's working for him than going into reading up on turbin technology :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> The expansion chambered downpipe has been in since I was on the stock turbo. It was added by itself, therefore I have a good grasp of how it affected performance. The main goal with these expansion chambers is to reduce/alleviate turbine-exit restriction. Since our small frame K03/K04/Hybrids choke down past peak TQ, my initial aim was to help flow up top by removing some of the inherent restriction. To my surprise, it did more than that -- besides allowing more flow up top as expected, the mod also improved things throughout the rev range. Improvement in spool characteristics was obvious from the drive after the mod. There was more and quicker boost even down low, and that was a surprise to me. It almost felt like moving to a slightly different turbo.
> 
> The chamber is about 400mm in length and measures 4" (102mm) in diameter. It transitions from 3.5" off the turbine to the 4", then back to 3.5". Why? Mainly because of the space restrictions in the tunnel and the proximity of the manifold to the turbine housing. I would have liked to go up to 4" straight from the turbine, but that's not physically possible and a small 3.5" transition piece is needed to clear the manifold.
> 
> Transition piece from short 3.5" primary to 4" flange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How tight the clearance is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How it all plays nice together on the car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Litterature that explains the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How the expansion chamber allow slow and restrictive spiraling flow out of a turbine to transition to fast-moving turbulent flow
Click to expand...

Brilliant [smiley=book2.gif]  ... I'm looking into getting a decent exhaust place to try and fabricate / replicate something like this - do you think I will have more or less clearance due to me using a V4 mani'? My other question is will I have a problem with the 4" expansion chamber and the other 3.5" sections of the down pipe rubbing on various parts of the car due to not having solid mounts like yourself? I measured the outlet of the K04 before and was surprised to see that it was 3.2" in diameter, pretty silly that 3" down pipes were manufactured in the first place as that's already leaving a .2" restriction on the table straight off the bat...


----------



## kane

Thanks for the info. I've been looking into the theory of expansion chamber because of the effect on dropping the lag on bigger turbos. I understand that the closer to the turbo the better but I think it will have an effect even replacing the cat with an empty chamber. The point is to give the hot gasses a place to go fast and cool down. The more space the gasses have to move on the faster they cool down and make room for more. I'm going with a standard off the shelf 3" dp and will be looking into how much room there is for expanding the straight part of it.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Brilliant [smiley=book2.gif]  ... I'm looking into getting a decent exhaust place to try and fabricate / replicate something like this - do you think I will have more or less clearance due to me using a V4 mani'? My other question is will I have a problem with the 4" expansion chamber and the other 3.5" sections of the down pipe rubbing on various parts of the car due to not having solid mounts like yourself? I measured the outlet of the K04 before and was surprised to see that it was 3.2" in diameter, pretty silly that 3" down pipes were manufactured in the first place as that's already leaving a .2" restriction on the table straight off the bat...


3.2" isnt a standard pipe size so not that weird all downpipes are 3"

An expansion chamber in a downpipe isnt that special. The 2.5 tfsi ttrs and rs3 turbo's have this expansion section on their hotside.


----------



## Madmax199

TT Tom TT said:


> Brilliant [smiley=book2.gif]  ... I'm looking into getting a decent exhaust place to try and fabricate / replicate something like this - do you think I will have more or less clearance due to me using a V4 mani'? My other question is will I have a problem with the 4" expansion chamber and the other 3.5" sections of the down pipe rubbing on various parts of the car due to not having solid mounts like yourself? I measured the outlet of the K04 before and was surprised to see that it was 3.2" in diameter, pretty silly that 3" down pipes were manufactured in the first place as that's already leaving a .2" restriction on the table straight off the bat...


Tom, funny you mentioned this, but it was one of my first observation with the TT exhaust. I was baffled by how a 3" downpipe and exhaust system was a major restriction to what the K04 turbine was capable of. It is just surprising that the entire "performance" TT community swallowed 3" downpipes "upgrades" without a complaint. Good catch bud, most people, including the "experts", overlook this important aspect and pay for it!

This pic shows what a 3" is to a standard TT exhaust gasket. 









I can't comment for sure on the v4 clearance because I have never bothered playing with one for the obvious flaws. What I can tell you is that the 3.5" system can work with poly mounts if built properly. When I originally had it, I was still on poly mounts and didn't upgrade to solid mounts yet, but never had an issue.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Brilliant [smiley=book2.gif]  ... I'm looking into getting a decent exhaust place to try and fabricate / replicate something like this - do you think I will have more or less clearance due to me using a V4 mani'? My other question is will I have a problem with the 4" expansion chamber and the other 3.5" sections of the down pipe rubbing on various parts of the car due to not having solid mounts like yourself? I measured the outlet of the K04 before and was surprised to see that it was 3.2" in diameter, pretty silly that 3" down pipes were manufactured in the first place as that's already leaving a .2" restriction on the table straight off the bat...
> 
> 
> 
> Tom, funny you mentioned this, but it was one of my first observation with the TT exhaust. I was baffled by how a 3" downpipe and exhaust system was a major restriction to what the K04 turbine was capable of. It is just surprising that the entire "performance" TT community swallowed 3" downpipes "upgrades" without a complaint. Good catch bud, most people, including the "experts", overlook this important aspect and pay for it!
> 
> This pic shows what a 3" is to a standard TT exhaust gasket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't comment for sure on the v4 clearance because I have never bothered playing with one for the obvious flaws. What I can tell you is that the 3.5" system can work with poly mounts if built properly. When I originally had it, I was still on poly mounts and didn't upgrade to solid mounts yet, but never had an issue.
Click to expand...

Just looked into this and have some sad news... I've phoned around all the custom exhaust places and they've all said that 3" is already a very tight squeeze (we know it will go obviously) and they've said it's such a pain in the arse to do that it would end up being 2-3 days labour which will cost me an immense sum of money... I don't have the talent to do it myself either


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> 3.2" isnt a standard pipe size so not that weird all downpipes are 3"
> 
> An expansion chamber in a downpipe isnt that special. The 2.5 tfsi ttrs and rs3 turbo's have this expansion section on their hotside.


Yeah, 3.2" is not a standard size... but 3.5" is! Why create a neckdown on restriction prone hotside when the next standard size is also very close, and can be welded to a K04 turbine flange? Nobody is saying anything is special, the platform is almost 20 years old, and how many expansion-chambered downpipe do you see on MK1 TT? I haven't seen more than a couple (both custom or made by a company). Sorry to be blunt, but this is the kind of outlook that stops preformance progress on a platform, and promotes/harbor mediocre results. [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## jamman

I hear top US Olympic swimmer and all round bro Ryan Lochte runs a 3.5" system but then again he might be lying :wink:

@Tom tread carefully with the V4 matey you know the build tolerances are all over the place from the company.


----------



## Madmax199

jamman said:


> I hear top US Olympic swimmer and all round bro Ryan Lochte runs a 3.5" system but then again he might be lying :wink:


Big question is what do you have on Michael Phelps?


----------



## Gonzalo1495

jamman said:


> I hear top US Olympic swimmer and all round bro Ryan Lochte runs a 3.5" system but then again he might be lying :wink:
> 
> @Tom tread carefully with the V4 matey you know the build tolerances are all over the place from the company.


 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## jamman

Madmax199 said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hear top US Olympic swimmer and all round bro Ryan Lochte runs a 3.5" system but then again he might be lying :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> Big question is what do you have on Michael Phelps?
Click to expand...

Nothing but "admiration" some great pictures came out during the racing three I remember well,

A) him years ago with the young lad you grew up to beat him in the sprint race

B) the weird stretching where he puts his hands completely round his back

C) the off guard picture where he's giving an Australian competitor his death stare


----------



## jamman

Gonzalo1495 said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hear top US Olympic swimmer and all round bro Ryan Lochte runs a 3.5" system but then again he might be lying :wink:
> 
> @Tom tread carefully with the V4 matey you know the build tolerances are all over the place from the company.
> 
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

From hero to forever a zero in 5 mins Gonzy what a egotistical fool he was.


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 3.2" isnt a standard pipe size so not that weird all downpipes are 3"
> 
> An expansion chamber in a downpipe isnt that special. The 2.5 tfsi ttrs and rs3 turbo's have this expansion section on their hotside.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, 3.2" is not a standard size... but 3.5" is! Why create a neckdown on restriction prone hotside when the next standard size is also very close, and can be welded to a K04 turbine flange? Nobody is saying anything is special, the platform is almost 20 years old, and how many expansion-chambered downpipe do you see on MK1 TT? I haven't seen more than a couple (both custom or made by a company). Sorry to be blunt, but this is the kind of outlook that stops preformance progress on a platform, and promotes/harbor mediocre results. [smiley=gossip.gif]
Click to expand...

If i had the hotside on the other side and not trying to squeeze it past the turbo and driveshaft i would definitely make an 4" downpipe and 3.5" to pass the subframe.
3" is pretty 'easy' money making for an exhaust shop to frabricate so they don't bother with going bigger.



TT Tom TT said:


> Just looked into this and have some sad news... I've phoned around all the custom exhaust places and they've all said that 3" is already a very tight squeeze (we know it will go obviously) and they've said it's such a pain in the arse to do that it would end up being 2-3 days labour which will cost me an immense sum of money... I don't have the talent to do it myself either


Tom, you should pick up some spanners yourself. Skills don't grow from reading forums. Practice mate, practice...


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 3.2" isnt a standard pipe size so not that weird all downpipes are 3"
> 
> An expansion chamber in a downpipe isnt that special. The 2.5 tfsi ttrs and rs3 turbo's have this expansion section on their hotside.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, 3.2" is not a standard size... but 3.5" is! Why create a neckdown on restriction prone hotside when the next standard size is also very close, and can be welded to a K04 turbine flange? Nobody is saying anything is special, the platform is almost 20 years old, and how many expansion-chambered downpipe do you see on MK1 TT? I haven't seen more than a couple (both custom or made by a company). Sorry to be blunt, but this is the kind of outlook that stops preformance progress on a platform, and promotes/harbor mediocre results. [smiley=gossip.gif]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If i had the hotside on the other side and not trying to squeeze it past the turbo and driveshaft i would definitely make an 4" downpipe and 3.5" to pass the subframe.
> 3" is pretty 'easy' money making for an exhaust shop to frabricate so they don't bother with going bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just looked into this and have some sad news... I've phoned around all the custom exhaust places and they've all said that 3" is already a very tight squeeze (we know it will go obviously) and they've said it's such a pain in the arse to do that it would end up being 2-3 days labour which will cost me an immense sum of money... I don't have the talent to do it myself either
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tom, you should pick up some spanners yourself. Skills don't grow from reading forums. Practice mate, practice...
Click to expand...

and welding equipment? and a mandrel tube bending machine? I don't think making a custom down pipe that a specialist exhaust manufacturer said would take them 2-3 days would be an appropriate job for a beginner like me who doesn't do anything more than do basic servicing. I know my limitations - I'd rather not go past them and colossally destroy something or write my car off because I haven't put the sub-frame prop-shaft etc back on properly.


----------



## NickG

Is that a joke?! :lol:

Nuts, bolts and screws... Undo them in a certain order, do them back up in the reverse order. There's no science to it... Man I've seen some spanner monkeys in garages, which is why I have the confidence that even with 0 knowledge, I can't do any worse!!

Okay, so fabrication a new downpipe is a task, a hell of a task, I won't be doing it any time soon... But anything that isn't custom fabricated is, IMO accessible and doable by all, with the right set of tools!


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> and welding equipment? and a mandrel tube bending machine? I don't think making a custom down pipe that a specialist exhaust manufacturer said would take them 2-3 days would be an appropriate job for a beginner like me who doesn't do anything more than do basic servicing. I know my limitations - I'd rather not go past them and colossally destroy something or write my car off because I haven't put the sub-frame prop-shaft etc back on properly.


A downpipe is made from standard parts. You buy the flanges, the bends the pipes the v'bands from a shop. Only thing you need to do is cut them at the right place at the right angle.

Equipment?

Well max nailed it on the head a few days back:

Surround you with the right people and sky is the limit [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## Alexey

Hey Max,

How did you get your bonnet to sit flush with the spaced out fender? 
I trialed it when doing some other work on the car but the bonnet doesn't fit properly.








It looks like a perfect fit in your pictures.


----------



## ProjectMick

I think a darker colour may be a little more forgiving than light ones with that particular mod.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> and welding equipment? and a mandrel tube bending machine? I don't think making a custom down pipe that a specialist exhaust manufacturer said would take them 2-3 days would be an appropriate job for a beginner like me who doesn't do anything more than do basic servicing. I know my limitations - I'd rather not go past them and colossally destroy something or write my car off because I haven't put the sub-frame prop-shaft etc back on properly.
> 
> 
> 
> A downpipe is made from standard parts. You buy the flanges, the bends the pipes the v'bands from a shop. Only thing you need to do is cut them at the right place at the right angle.
> 
> Equipment?
> 
> Well max nailed it on the head a few days back:
> 
> Surround you with the right people and sky is the limit [smiley=cheers.gif]
Click to expand...

I asked Badger5 today and he said no on a quattro so I really don't expect it to be easy to do at all.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> and welding equipment? and a mandrel tube bending machine? I don't think making a custom down pipe that a specialist exhaust manufacturer said would take them 2-3 days would be an appropriate job for a beginner like me who doesn't do anything more than do basic servicing. I know my limitations - I'd rather not go past them and colossally destroy something or write my car off because I haven't put the sub-frame prop-shaft etc back on properly.
> 
> 
> 
> A downpipe is made from standard parts. You buy the flanges, the bends the pipes the v'bands from a shop. Only thing you need to do is cut them at the right place at the right angle.
> 
> Equipment?
> 
> Well max nailed it on the head a few days back:
> 
> Surround you with the right people and sky is the limit [smiley=cheers.gif]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I asked Badger5 today and he said no on a quattro so I really don't expect it to be easy to do at all.
Click to expand...

If he won't do it i think you have to accept a 3" or some DIY work :?


----------



## ProjectMick

Tom, maybe try getting in touch with these guys

http://trackslag.com/index.php

Not personally dealt with them before, but they are reputable and seem to like a bit of custom fabrication and DIY. Worth a shot I suppose.

(P.S sorry Max for cluttering your excellent thread!)


----------



## Madmax199

Alexey said:


> Hey Max,
> 
> How did you get your bonnet to sit flush with the spaced out fender?
> I trialed it when doing some other work on the car but the bonnet doesn't fit properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a perfect fit in your pictures.


Hey bud, my car is not a good example because I use a composite bonnet. The thing is a single sheet of dry carbon without any skeleton and bracing, so it's quite flexible. A day or two in the hot sun and it conformed to the altered wing placement.

With that said, others in the US that run 255 or wider tyres have followed my lead and did the fender spacing mod with standard bonnets. It will never look 100% perfect -- it's a functional mod and once you have set function over form, little/subtle line imperfections go way down in the priority list. Here are a few pics of another silver TT with the mod, not too bad IMO.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> If he won't do it i think you have to accept a 3" or some DIY work :?


It's looking that way.



ProjectMick said:


> Tom, maybe try getting in touch with these guys
> 
> http://trackslag.com/index.php
> 
> Not personally dealt with them before, but they are reputable and seem to like a bit of custom fabrication and DIY. Worth a shot I suppose.
> 
> (P.S sorry Max for cluttering your excellent thread!)


I've sent them a message, thanks for the recommendation . I'm sure max won't mind - we're not talking about irrelevant things at the end of the day although I am border-line hi-jacking [smiley=argue.gif] ...


----------



## Madmax199

ProjectMick said:


> Tom, maybe try getting in touch with these guys
> 
> http://trackslag.com/index.php
> 
> Not personally dealt with them before, but they are reputable and seem to like a bit of custom fabrication and DIY. Worth a shot I suppose.
> 
> (P.S sorry Max for cluttering your excellent thread!)


Don't ever feel like you're cluttering my thread. As long as it's performance and TT related discusssion, it is welcomed! :wink:

As for Tom's quest, I think it comes down to finding a proper race/fabrication shop. I have noticed this in the US as well, VAG-specific shops tend to be very conservative and reluctant to tackle "unusual" custom work. Anything I do gets done in a race shop that I hang out in. They specialize in building race EVO, STi and Skylines, so a project in the TT is something everyone gets excited about since it's a break from the usual. Race/fabrication shops also have the tooling and expertise to tackle such jobs and finishing them succesfully, it's not just about knowing how to make bids and owning a TIG (for example, the foward mount on my propeller shaft was spaced a few mm to create room for the piping -- that's a minor detail for a real fab shop).


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


>


That is some GTR type shit right there


----------



## NickG

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is some GTR type shit right there
Click to expand...

I'm really wishing I explored this before arch rolling!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Alexey

NickG said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is some GTR type shit right there
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm really wishing I explored this before arch rolling!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Click to expand...

Why not both? Did you gain much clearance with rolled arches? Got any close up pics?


----------



## NickG

Because i messed one up! The otherside looks ok, but spacing them would have been the ideal solution.


----------



## Alexey

Max, are you still running 7 nozzle WMI setup? Did you find much gain from direct port injection over the 2 nozzle setup you recommended a while back (1 post turbo and 1 post throttle plate)?

I've bought a TorqByte CM5-LT controller and the standard WMI Aquatec pump, just deciding on how many nozzles and the sizing.


----------



## Madmax199

No, I don't run WMI at all anymore because my new racing class does not allow chemical cooling and air-to-liquid intercooling.

There is way more results to be had with the direct-port over the two-nozzle setup.

1) Direct port allows even distribution of W/M on all 4 cylinders. That's something that's impossible to achieve otherwise. On the two-nozzle setup, the first runner gets the least juice, and each consecutive runner (and associated cylinder) progressively gets more. This leads to starvation issues on the first two runners and the tuning has to be dialed down to the capacity of the cylinder with the least juice (an obvious limitation).

2) Direct port also offers the ability to have way more and better in-cylinder cooling (when the chemical reaction happens inside of the combustion chamber). With the two nozzle I recommended as a basic starter setup, you're limited to some of IAT cooling (post turbo) and some uneven in-cylinder cooling (throttle plate).

The two nozzle is really an entry level setup, the 7-nozzles setup I ran was much more elaborate in construction and results (also included pre-turbo spraying with one of the nozzles). The two really can't be compared in terms of what they allow you to achieve with boost and timing.


----------



## Alexey

So is 7 what you would recommend for best results? How did you size your nozzles?


----------



## Madmax199

Yes, the 7 nozzles is where I got my best results with WMI (IAT dropping under load at 30+ psi of boost on a hot-running KO4). With 4 direct-port, 1 pre-turbo, a 2 pre-TB nozzles (one pre and one post IC) you get all the basis covered, but it's an elaborate system that requires some attention to details. If doing it, make sure to include proper failsafes, dedicated solenoid on each line and before your manifold distribution block etc.

Nozzle sizing depend on the flow and heat of the system. Without knowing what turbo and boost pressure you will run it's a bit of a guess to advise on the IAT nozzles. As for the direct port nozzles, and pre-turbo nozzles they need to be small, very small due to the environment they will operate in. You want a nozzle small enough and with such a fine mist that at base pump pressure (say 60-100 psi) it does not puddle when hitting something at atmospheric pressure (crucial for pre-turbo and direct port). 





For example, when I built mine many years ago, nobody offered nozzles small enough for the job on our small 1.8L displacement and small frame turbos. I had to make my own custom nozzle, which gave birth to the USRT direct port kit (often called Madmax direct port kit in the US because I originally manufactured and distributed the key components to make pre-turbo and direct port possible). Something along the range of 20 cc/min to 35 cc/min is what you need for the job. USRT provides those on their direct port kit.

Difference in hole size between my prototype 35 cc/min nozzle and the typical "small" 100 cc/min ones found in the WMI world









Solenoid valve is very important right before your manifold distribution block and pre-turbo nozzle because of the high vacuum.


----------



## Madmax199

TT Tom TT said:


> I asked Badger5 today and he said no on a quattro so I really don't expect it to be easy to do at all.


Tom, saw this posted on ASN. Looks like some exhaust shop was listening. That's a direct version/clone of my design and hopefully fits right. I would jump on it even if it needs some tweaking to be 100%, you're at least 99% there.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/142094298545?rmvS ... noapp=true


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> I asked Badger5 today and he said no on a quattro so I really don't expect it to be easy to do at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Tom, saw this posted on ASN. Looks like some exhaust shop was listening. That's a direct version/clone of my design and hopefully fits right. I would jump on it even if it needs some tweaking to be 100%, you're at least 99% there.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/142094298545?rmvS ... noapp=true
Click to expand...

Good spot, 430.00GBP is a lot to pay for a 3.5" K04 flange to 3" reducer! The rest of the system is no different from what I have now. I wonder if he will be willing to sell the 3.5" flange to 3" piece seperately


----------



## Madmax199

TT Tom TT said:


> Good spot, 430.00GBP is a lot to pay for a 3.5" K04 flange to 3" reducer! The rest of the system is no different from what I have now. I wonder if he will be willing to sell the 3.5" flange to 3" piece seperately


It's really a K04 flange to 3.5" v-band -- then 3.5" expansion chamber -- finallly going back to 3" to sqeeze in the tunel. This is by far your best option besides doing it custom with 4" chamber and 3.5" piping. I don't know what you were expecting to spend, but that seems like a fair price for an above-average K04-02x downpipe (you're not chocking the turbine exit and you're getting an expansion chamber). You wanted above-average downpipe and was at a dead end, this IMO opens the door to what you were after. Anyway, thought I'd share!


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good spot, 430.00GBP is a lot to pay for a 3.5" K04 flange to 3" reducer! The rest of the system is no different from what I have now. I wonder if he will be willing to sell the 3.5" flange to 3" piece seperately
> 
> 
> 
> It's really a K04 flange to 3.5" v-band -- then 3.5" expansion chamber -- finallly going back to 3" to sqeeze in the tunel. This is by far your best option besides doing it custom with 4" chamber and 3.5" piping. I don't know what you were expecting to spend, but that seems like a fair price for an above-average K04-02x downpipe (you're not chocking the turbine exit and you're getting an expansion chamber). You wanted above-average downpipe and was at a dead end, this IMO opens the door to what you were after. Anyway, thought I'd share!
Click to expand...

I have messaged him and from what I understand it's not, his words were:

"the inlet from the pipe is 3,5", we reduce it to 3" between the flange and the first v-band"

I take it from that - it's literally just a 3.5" flange which near instantly reduces to 3". Don't get me wrong though that still certainly has its uses and I would definitely want to buy one which is why I've asked him if he will sell that small section seperately but I'm yet to get a reply.


----------



## Beunhaas

Thats what i also throught while Reading the description. K04 to 3" vband adapter and 3" downpipe. If you look in the picture you can see the little piece in the beginning is narrowing down instead of expanding.

In that case its a fancy 3 piece downpipe with no extra function over any other 3" downpipe.


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Thats what i also throught while Reading the description. K04 to 3" vband adapter and 3" downpipe. If you look in the picture you can see the little piece in the beginning is narrowing down instead of expanding.
> 
> In that case its a fancy 3 piece downpipe with no extra function over any other 3" downpipe.


Oh yeah, scratch that then! It's pointless


----------



## Madmax199

TT Tom TT said:


> I have messaged him and from what I understand it's not, his words were:
> 
> "the inlet from the pipe is 3,5", we reduce it to 3" between the flange and the first v-band"
> 
> I take it from that - it's literally just a 3.5" flange which near instantly reduces to 3". Don't get me wrong though that still certainly has its uses and I would definitely want to buy one which is why I've asked him if he will sell that small section seperately but I'm yet to get a reply.


Back to square one!


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have messaged him and from what I understand it's not, his words were:
> 
> "the inlet from the pipe is 3,5", we reduce it to 3" between the flange and the first v-band"
> 
> I take it from that - it's literally just a 3.5" flange which near instantly reduces to 3". Don't get me wrong though that still certainly has its uses and I would definitely want to buy one which is why I've asked him if he will sell that small section seperately but I'm yet to get a reply.
> 
> 
> 
> Back to square one!
Click to expand...

Square one of sorts, I would still like that piece connected to my turbo and then 3" down pipe. At least it gets to spool out into 3.5" and then it smoothly bottles back down to 3" rather than having it instantly spooling into a restriction. I would definitely buy the small part to bolt onto my turbo and then weld onto my existing down pipe if it was the right price.


----------



## Madmax199

See if he wants to sell you the v-band section.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> See if he wants to sell you the v-band section.


I've already asked but I'm expecting a big fat no as this is the only special part of what he's offering!


----------



## Madmax199

BTW, worth a shot, I would contact tuffy (not sure where he is located) and use this thread as leverage maybe to see if he or Bill would tackle the project for you. Apparantly they have also done it at some point for the right customer.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/ne ... st-2819704


----------



## kane

Could you tell me more about your brake system?


----------



## Madmax199

kane said:


> Could you tell me more about your brake system?


Standard front hardware -- Tyrolsport front Caliper stiffening kit -- Custom 308mm 2-piece rear disc -- bracket to move the stock rear calipers out radially for more leverage -- Carbotech XP20 all around -- Amsoil high temp fluid


----------



## TT Tom TT

Madmax199 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could you tell me more about your brake system?
> 
> 
> 
> Standard front hardware -- Tyrolsport front Caliper stiffening kit -- Custom 308mm 2-piece rear disc -- bracket to move the stock rear calipers out radially for more leverage -- Carbotech XP20 all around -- Amsoil high temp fluid
Click to expand...

How come you haven't swapped your fronts out for calipers that are lighter? Aluminium mono-blocks or something? I'm super surprised, I know you'll have a reason - I just want to know what it is :?:


----------



## Madmax199

Truth be told, the reason is that the stock hardware with good pads and good fresh fluid is enough to overwhelm 315 with sticky race rubber. So in other words plenty of braking power. Now in terms of upgrade, the rear to me was the real area of concern. So if improvements are going to come, it only makes sense to have in the rear (front improvements only makes the balance worse until the rear is addressed).

With the rear problem solved, I will do the fronts (already have all the parts laid out for it but just need to get to doing it). However I will not go the conventional way with larger front discs. I will do 310mm 2-piece rotors with Wilwood radial mount calipers. This combo is super light, the caliper I chose will increase the front clamping TQ appropriately, and I can still run 15", 16", or 17" wheels if I choose to. Some will argue that the thermal load capacity of larger rotors is important, but from experience with the car it is not the case -- and cooling ducts are on the to-do list.

All in all, it will get done but in a sensible and calculated way. I couldn't bring myself to just blindly slap some front calipers from another car, or a random front kit that further upsets the brake balance and call it a day. Not how I do things!

This to me is where any hardware upgrade after good pad/fluid is needed. It's ridiculous that Audi would do this, and even more ridiculous that some even make the balance worst in the name of "performance".


----------



## Madmax199

Off season has been dead for me as I haven't touched anything on the long 'project' list for the car in a couple of months. Before it got too cold last year I added a rear LSD from MFactory. I had plans to install the front right after, but found that my transmission has more backlash than I would like to see. So I decided to go for a rebuild with taller o2m TDi gears and drop the front LSD in at the same time.


























A few weeks ago I got a chance to finish a project that I have wanted to do for a while, my own stage one rear brake upgrade. Custom lightweight 300mm two-piece rotors, Steel brackets to move the OEM rear caliper away radially to gain more leverage. The reason is I wanted lighter than any other kit made for the rear, parking brake retained, and full bolt-on (there is no need to grind the knuckle like the ECS kit or use shims, redrill PCD, or use spigot rings to fit).


























This week we got a nice break in the weather here in New York (Meruca), and I attacked the rear spare tire hump with guns blazing. I don't own a spare tire, and that thing isn't necessarily light. So I chopped the damn thing off.  I will save some weight, make the rear stiffer with bracing, and have a removable service door which will make changing the Haldex filter a breeze. Seems like a win-win proposition to me. [smiley=argue.gif] I also took the opportunity while working back there to install the forward portion of my diffuser that has been sitting around the garage for ages. The project isn't finished because I ran out of wrench time, I need to triangulate/brace the top and rivet an aluminum plate to cover the hole.

*Chopped*









*Rear subframe posts cross-braced, and forward diffuser section bolted up*


----------



## watersbluebird

I love this chopping out lol. Can you access the haldex bolt/insert on the controller through this hatch? Might be my way in to changing it.


----------



## NickG

Nice work Max! What do you reackon the Big lump of existing wheel well metal weighed in at?


----------



## 1781cc

wow, now thats extreme weight saving, pretty soon at this rate you'll end up with a space frame car


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Nice work Max! What do you reackon the Big lump of existing wheel well metal weighed in at?


Nick, I will have the weight for you over the weekend. My mate borrowed my scale and haven't returned it.


----------



## Madmax199

watersbluebird said:


> I love this chopping out lol. Can you access the haldex bolt/insert on the controller through this hatch? Might be my way in to changing it.


You can't easily access the Haldex bolt from the top without dropping the subframe a bit. The filter however is right there!


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> wow, now thats extreme weight saving, pretty soon at this rate you'll end up with a space frame car


Good problem to have if you ask me. Lol


----------



## Madmax199

Rearward top braces fabricated an mocked up. All that's left is to fab my cover with a service door, but gotta go to the hardware store for some lightweight hinges and high density sealing foam. Bracing came out pretty good and it's solid. I was thinking of triangulating with a cross bar, but I don't think it's necessary seeing how rigid it is (much better than the spot welded sheet metal it replaces).










I used existing structural studs on the rear trunk panel for rear anchoring of the side braces.


----------



## Madmax199

Madmax199 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work Max! What do you reackon the Big lump of existing wheel well metal weighed in at?
> 
> 
> 
> Nick, I will have the weight for you over the weekend. My mate borrowed my scale and haven't returned it.
Click to expand...

Nick, 13.7 Lbs for the spare tire hump. I added back 3.2 lbs of bracing and covers, so a 10.5 lbs weight loss.

I decided to try half alumalite and half Lexan (service door). I kinda of like the way it looks (rough cut that needs finishing/smooting), and it gives good angles for suspension videos.


----------



## NickG

Decent Saving!!

Cheers Max, appreciate the info


----------



## Von Twinzig

Madmax199 said:


> I decided to try half alumalite.......


ACM - Aluminium Composite this side of the pond. Used for facade cladding. Malleable.

VT


----------



## NickG

Heavy as well!


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Heavy as well!


What is heavy? Alumalite?


----------



## Madmax199

Trunk service door cleaned up and bolted


----------



## Von Twinzig

NickG said:


> Heavy as well!


3mm is around 6kg/m2, so lighter than similarly rigid aluminium.

VT


----------



## Madmax199

Yeah it's very light (and rigid)!


----------



## NickG

I'm not sure it's quite the same thing, or atleast what I'm referring to, when I use ACM at work (I.e. Alucobond or Reynobond) its 3mm thick, 0.5mm outer aluminium skin either side, with a solid 2mm Polyethalene core. As you say, about 6kg/m2 for 3mm sheet.

The Alumalite stuff appears to use a corrugated core mainly used for signage. Quick research shows me that 6mm alumalite is around 4kg/m2 so quite a bit lighter then the solid core ACM that I was thinking of!

I know Karl has some crazy aerospace composite that he's used in the boot floor of his Mini track build, it's about 10mm thick but ridiculously light, I'd hazard a guess at 1.5-2kg/m2.... I've just got to convince him to let me have a bit!!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Yep, same stuff I've used Nick (Alucobond etc.). Removing the wheel well - Interesting concept Max. 8)

VT


----------



## Madmax199

The stuf I use (alumalite) is 3.8 kg/m2 in 6mm sheet. Very light yet very strong. That's what I make my front splitter with, good stuff!


----------



## Von Twinzig

UK supplier Nick...http://www.multipaneluk.com/products/si ... /aluflute/

VT


----------



## Alexey

Hey Max, how do you run such wide tyres on the front? I trialed 285s on the front, but I get rubbing on the rear arch liner when turning. I can't bring the wheels further inwards either as the strut clearance is only a few mm.


----------



## watersbluebird

Madmax199 said:


> Trunk service door cleaned up and bolted


An extra window.


----------



## Madmax199

Alexey said:


> Hey Max, how do you run such wide tyres on the front? I trialed 285s on the front, but I get rubbing on the rear arch liner when turning. I can't bring the wheels further inwards either as the strut clearance is only a few mm.


They would stick out quite a bit without body work. There is a fair amount of alterations done to the fenders (wings for you guys) to make the wheels look like they semi belong on the car. The fenders are spaced out, the lip of the arches are cut, and I drafted extension flares to the forward section.

You also need caster adjustability to center the wheel longitudinally under the arches. That's where you seem to be having problems with rubbing. Push that hub forward with some some more positive caster and you will get the clearance needed.


----------



## Alexey

Do you mean something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262722960779

Or is there an easier/better way?
And i know they will poke out but i will be fittings some arch extensions.


----------



## Madmax199

Yes, something like this. However, the eccentric bushing design is hard to get accurate settings on both sides and they tend to walk (slightly rotate and lose the setting) over time or with hard bumps. I used offset ball-joints in the past to do this, and now do it with some fully adjustable tubular control arms.


----------



## Alexey

I like the idea of offset ball joints. Dont seem to find an off the shelf solution, did you just drill/modify the stock ball joints?


----------



## Madmax199

Alexey said:


> I like the idea of offset ball joints. Dont seem to find an off the shelf solution, did you just drill/modify the stock ball joints?


I actually did some ball joint relocating plates at first to give extra camber and the needed caster offset. Then later moved on to some prototype ones that never made it to production but had camber caster and roll center incorporated into the design. These are not off the shelf items, so you're going to have to get creative. Using the MK5/7 ball joint mod does give some extra caster and a bunch of camber but not sure if the caster provided is enough to get you the clearance needed.

MK5 ball joint mod









Prototype one with camber caster and taller stud for roll center correction 









Original ball joint relocation plates I made and ran


----------



## Madmax199

17.5" convex interior mirror, Spa racing exterior mirrors, side air dam spats, new front wheels and tires mounted and painted. A few more things and it'll be ready for race season, getting excited!

17.5" wide angle convex interior mirror 






















































Side air dam spats


















Spa exterior mirrors




































Wheels/tires 17x10 at 16 lbs 10 ounces wrapped with new 315 slicks


----------



## 1781cc

nice update mate. Wing mirrors... so obvious, why didn't I think of that [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Alexey

Madmax199 said:


> Alexey said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the idea of offset ball joints. Dont seem to find an off the shelf solution, did you just drill/modify the stock ball joints?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually did some ball joint relocating plates at first to give extra camber and the needed caster offset. Then later moved on to some prototype ones that never made it to production but had camber caster and roll center incorporated into the design. These are not off the shelf items, so you're going to have to get creative. Using the MK5/7 ball joint mod does give some extra caster and a bunch of camber but not sure if the caster provided is enough to get you the clearance needed.
> 
> MK5 ball joint mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prototype one with camber caster and taller stud for roll center correction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Original ball joint relocation plates I made and ran
Click to expand...

When you say MK5 ball joint mod, do you mean mk5 golf ball joints? The stock ones don't look like the ones in your picture.


----------



## Matt B

Really impressed with how light those wheels are. I won't be going that wide but I will definitely take a look at those rims if they do an 18x9 offering


----------



## infidel.uk

hi max, would you mind me asking about that wheel well you chopped out ? im wanting to chop a 300x300mm square out of mine on a coupé, is the floor the same do you know ? im hoping i can just air-saw away but im also not certain what is underneath on a coupé, someone mentioned an evap filter ?

could you possibly advise [pretty please ? 

as pictured below...


----------



## CollecTTor

Alexey said:


> When you say MK5 ball joint mod, do you mean mk5 golf ball joints? The stock ones don't look like the ones in your picture.


I believe they're Mk2 TT ball joints, not MK5's.


----------



## Alexey

CollecTTor said:


> Alexey said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you say MK5 ball joint mod, do you mean mk5 golf ball joints? The stock ones don't look like the ones in your picture.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe they're Mk2 TT ball joints, not MK5's.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirmation, I came to the same conclusion but wasn't 100% sure.


----------



## Madmax199

Matt B said:


> Really impressed with how light those wheels are. I won't be going that wide but I will definitely take a look at those rims if they do an 18x9 offering


Hey Matt, they do them in 18x9 but not 5x100 bolt pattern. They make 18x8 in 5x100 but anything bigger than that is only done in the tuner friendly bolt patterns (5x112 and 5x114.3). It's unbelievable what they can get out of their casting process in terms of lightness and structural strength, these wheels are only 1 lbs heavier than my other 2 forged 5-zigen FN01R that cost 3 times the price. The design and technology was borrowed from the F1 wheel they made for the McLarens, they just changed from center bolt to production car bolt patterns, so definitely some F1 voodoo carried over with the design.

*size and bolt pattern PDF*
http://enkei.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/RPF1.pdf


----------



## Madmax199

Alexey said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alexey said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you say MK5 ball joint mod, do you mean mk5 golf ball joints? The stock ones don't look like the ones in your picture.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe they're Mk2 TT ball joints, not MK5's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for confirmation, I came to the same conclusion but wasn't 100% sure.
Click to expand...

Yes, Mk2 TT (or MK5 chassis)


----------



## Madmax199

infidel.uk said:


> hi max, would you mind me asking about that wheel well you chopped out ? im wanting to chop a 300x300mm square out of mine on a coupé, is the floor the same do you know ? im hoping i can just air-saw away but im also not certain what is underneath on a coupé, someone mentioned an evap filter ?
> 
> could you possibly advise [pretty please ?
> 
> as pictured below...


The EVAP charcoal canister is under there, so you would have to remove that before cutting away. You also would have to find a suitable spot to relocate the charcoal can afterwards (or delete it).


----------



## infidel.uk

thanks for answering max, i think ill chop one of the sides out in that case, i dont need a huge hole and the shape/placement isnt vital, so thanks for answering buddy 

quick edit : would it still be the case mine being an early 2000 apx ?


----------



## Madmax199

Time for an update! Front LSD fitted with full clutch refresh (would be rude not to do it while the box is out). Did some additional side vent on the "bonnet. Also re-did my rear spoiler with Alumalite instead os lexan plastic. It's now slightly larger, much stronger, and considerably lighter. Rear ARB deleted for good, so the car is swaybar-less which means total wheel independence. With 850/1300 lbs/in springs, body roll is under control, so why not. Car is handling like something else, not a TT -- understeer is officially a thing of the past and lift-off and on-throttle oversteer are the new main characteristics. I can't believe it took me 8 years and a lot of different setups to get that fully sorted. Loving how the car feels at the track, and dedicating the next two months to get as many track days as possible.

LSD and clutch 
















Large side bonnet vents


----------



## Timdog

Any pics of the cockpit Max ?

Are you allowed lightweight doors in your series or have you just a pretty much door skin only on it ?

Nice build


----------



## SamDorey

What's the weight of the new wheels with the tyres?


----------



## Madmax199

Timdog said:


> Any pics of the cockpit Max ?
> 
> Are you allowed lightweight doors in your series or have you just a pretty much door skin only on it ?
> 
> Nice build


Thank you Timdog! The doors are just skins, and even that is lightened with speed holes all over it. Here are some door and cockpit pics (some old ... some more recent):


----------



## Madmax199

SamDorey said:


> What's the weight of the new wheels with the tyres?


44.15 lbs or 20.02 Kg wheels and tires mounted


----------



## 1781cc

Car's looking good Max, whats your overall unladen weight at now? much more you can do on the weight saving or are you at the limit now?


----------



## Madmax199

1781cc said:


> Car's looking good Max, whats your overall unladen weight at now? much more you can do on the weight saving or are you at the limit now?


I am around 1,100 kg race weight (unladen). The last time I had it on the scales it was at 1,112 kg -- but I have done quite a few weight reducing mods since then and all were accurately weighed.

There are a few things I can and will still do to bring the weight down. Lexan windshield -- aluminum propeller shaft -- lighter brakes -- lightweight composite trunk (boot for you guys) -- lightweight composite door panels. The goal is to get in the 1,000 kg range when it's all said and done!


----------



## SamDorey

Could you save some weight by making your own rear lights, like you've done with the front but with some leds? Not sure how much you could save.


----------



## Madmax199

SamDorey said:


> Could you save some weight by making your own rear lights, like you've done with the front but with some leds? Not sure how much you could save.


Yes I could have made my own tail lights. The rear lights are not heavy like the front, so the gains don't warrant the trouble at this point... Especially when working rear brake light and turn signals are a requirement to pass racing inspection.


----------



## 1781cc

I'm sure there is a logical reason, but do you not have any side-impact protection in your car? the doors look gutted completely and I can see any cage bars to protect you from either a bad side impact with a car or barrier.

?


----------



## Madmax199

No logical reason except that it's not needed in my class requirements and nobody competitive in the class nationally builds heavy cages with side protection. I class this with a fire system, very good safety devices, but collectively not done as they're not mandatory. Personally I tell myself that as soon as I get the car below minimum weight, first thing that will go in are a better cage and a fire system.


----------



## stevov

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=315815
Enjoy your thread mate you remind me a lot of the guy in the attached link. Must be in the name


----------



## 1781cc

Fair enough, personally it would bother me not having the side impact protection but you've gone this far and been alright, its not like you are tracking with the newbie weekend warriors that we sometimes have over here who really shouldn't be on track. I have plans for the doors but need to find a way of adding side protection so I can.


----------



## Madmax199

The forum format seems to be on its death bed these days, and this is the only TT forum left that's not a complete ghost town. So I'll continue to post my build progress here until the wheels fall off (it also helps to have everything catalogued in one place which is impossible with newer popular media).

I moved on from the big rear spoiler that served me well for years. I jumped on the small run of BYC wing that was made for the MK1 TT. I also decided to go on and redo the mounting and deviate from the narrow mount design. I got rid of the third small bracing "wing" that to me was pointless. To finish off I added a pair of bracing cables to keep the wing secured no matter what.



















Made the decision to move on from the K04 hybrid camp, and go "Big Turbo". I can't say enough good things about these hybrids, they are quick spooling, can make decent power, and are tough as nails. I'm sure I'll missed the the explosive early TQ of the hybrid, but it was time to move on (was getting bored). So, after wrestling with which turbo to get, I settled for the new Garrett G25-660. It was a hard decision over the EFR 6758, but overall the specs of the new Garrett line won me over. Smaller hotside mated with a compressor capable of flowing 60 lbs/min of air. New blade material, all v-banded, oil and water ports everywhere, ability to go standard or reverse flow orientation. What's not to like!!! Anyway, before I can bolt the turbo, I wanted to build the head to my liking. So I pulled the old small port and started working. I ported the exhaust to large port size (this should promote and improve exhaust flow). However, on the intake side, I didn't want to lose the velocity and transient response of the small port head. I did what I call a hybrid port, I opened the mouth to large port dimensions but kept the venturi/taper. I then went on to replace the exhaust valves with Iconel ones, and upgraded the springs. I also did an adjustable cam gear for good measure so I can dial the powerband to where I like. And to finish it off I resurfaced the head. All the work, from disassembly, to head surfacing was done in my garage and backyard by myself to keep cost low and have a handle on the quality of the work.


----------



## Delta4

Is that a sheet of glass your using with the 3m paper ? like the idea.


----------



## Madmax199

Now to the good and fun stuff!!! I wanted bottom mount turbo placement (I know there are people that like top mounts for various reasons, but for me it's bottom mount). I wanted a cast manifold that will be worry and crack free for a long time. And finally, I wanted v-band. Tried to source the combination on your own proved to be an impossible task, so I folded and went to the good people at PagParts tuning. Arnold Lee is a top dude, they are local to me, and PagParts reputation of quality is unmatched in the 1.8t world. I however had some custom things that I needed or the deal would be a bust.

Firstly I wanted an expansion chambered downpipe. The new G25 is basically a small turbo on the hotside, but a midsized turbo on the coldside. Therefore, typical small turbo issues is to be expected on the hotside. Things like higher gas pressure (so you nust have highly sprung wastegate), higher EGT than what you find on a 60 lbs/min turbo, etc. etc. My philosophy is to always build to complement whatever it is you have as a setup. The expansion chamber will promote flow out the turbine and help tremendously with spool. Pagparts delivered!



















I wanted external wastegate with atmospheric dump. This will also help with hotside backpressure when you're not reintroducing bypassed exhaust back into the main exhaust stream. PagParts delivered










Bottom mount V-band high flow manifold. PagParts delivered










Full turbo kit


----------



## Madmax199

Delta4 said:


> Is that a sheet of glass your using with the 3m paper ? like the idea.


Yes, old school method of resurfacing a head. Works like a charm! Straight-edged longitudinally, transversally, and diagonally (before, the head was full of high spots in the periphery and low spots around the cylinder bore).


----------



## TT Tom TT

I look forward to seeing graphs and hearing how this drives and what the power delivery is like! I know Bill is doing a build using the same turbo which should give you a bench mark of what to expect. It will be interesting to see what he manages to extract and then what you might produce given the extra details I.E the massaged large to small port taper on the inlet and the larger ported exhaust side of the head for example, not to mention E85 and all the other bells and whistles such as the SEM inlet mani' 8)

Oh and... This is utter 1.8T porn..! I imagine it sounding rather naughty once it's up and running :twisted:

Aero is looking amazing too! Do you have any lap times on any major tracks Max that I may know over there? I.E. Road Atlanta / Road America / Sebring? Unsure where you're located but would be super interested which tracks and variations of tracks you have times on 8)


----------



## NickG

Madmax199 said:


> The forum format seems to be on its death bed these days, and this is the only TT forum left that's not a complete ghost town. So I'll continue to post my build progress here until the wheels fall off (it also helps to have everything catalogued in one place which is impossible with newer popular media).


Tell me about it!! :roll: I'm basically updating my thread these days for my own benefit (Think dramatic motorsport quadruple barrel roll with head injury leading to amnesia! :lol: )

Anyway, i see your progress on the Facebook all the time anyway, but good to be able to see it in a format i can return to in the future! Just been having a discussion with Tom about Manifolds... trying desperately to convince him to go Cast as i see nothing but trouble from tubular manifolds!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Madmax199

Turbo in its final resting position. I decided to deviate from the original kit orientation and re-clocked it so my compressor outlet is near stock turbo location. This way, 90% of my existing charge piping can be retained.










For reference here is the standard kit and you can see the outlet is facing down










Did a 4" intake for now, will revise it later so the filter sits behind the right side headlight with NACA ducts bringing fresh air to it.


----------



## Madmax199

TT Tom TT said:


> I look forward to seeing graphs and hearing how this drives and what the power delivery is like! I know Bill is doing a build using the same turbo which should give you a bench mark of what to expect. It will be interesting to see what he manages to extract and then what you might produce given the extra details I.E the massaged large to small port taper on the inlet and the larger ported exhaust side of the head for example, not to mention E85 and all the other bells and whistles such as the SEM inlet mani' 8)
> 
> Oh and... This is utter 1.8T porn..! I imagine it sounding rather naughty once it's up and running :twisted:
> 
> Aero is looking amazing too! Do you have any lap times on any major tracks Max that I may know over there? I.E. Road Atlanta / Road America / Sebring? Unsure where you're located but would be super interested which tracks and variations of tracks you have times on 8)


I'm the Northeast USA in New York. The more famous track around me is probably Lime Rock Park. I haven't been since the hybrid turbo upgrade, but on the stock turbo I was able to get 59.xxx lap times consistently. That's probably an embarrassment for what the car can do nowadays, but that's the last time I have at LRP with the TT.

Yeah, I'm excited to see what I can squeeze out of this new turbo/engine setup. Not far from hitting the rollers for baseline tuning, so we'll have an idea soon enough on the G25 (only waiting on a few parts like 1700 cc injectors to arrive and I'll be ready).


----------



## Delta4

Madmax199 said:


> Delta4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a sheet of glass your using with the 3m paper ? like the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, old school method of resurfacing a head. Works like a charm! Straight-edged longitudinally, transversally, and diagonally (before, the head was full of high spots in the periphery and low spots around the cylinder bore).
Click to expand...

It maybe a old school method but it makes perfect sense to me.


----------



## desertstorm

Great Job Max, As you say modern social media such as Facebook has it's place but trying to find information is a nightmare. Build threads such as this on a forum are a mine of information for anybody. Are you sure 1700cc injectors are big enough ? Do they actually atomise the fuel much or is a bit like a hose  .
Looking forward to your results and Bills work, maybe you will discover a few things that nay help me out a bit.
Are you sure the air filter is big enough as well.
Probably better off going with the screamer pipe for the wastegate, looks like feeding it into the exhaust results in a 90 degree entry quite close to the turbine exit which can't be very good. This is not so much of an issue on a top mount and with the some of the track day noise restrictions we have these days a screamer pipe wouldn't help.


----------



## Madmax199

desertstorm said:


> Great Job Max, As you say modern social media such as Facebook has it's place but trying to find information is a nightmare. Build threads such as this on a forum are a mine of information for anybody. Are you sure 1700cc injectors are big enough ? Do they actually atomise the fuel much or is a bit like a hose  .
> Looking forward to your results and Bills work, maybe you will discover a few things that nay help me out a bit.
> Are you sure the air filter is big enough as well.
> Probably better off going with the screamer pipe for the wastegate, looks like feeding it into the exhaust results in a 90 degree entry quite close to the turbine exit which can't be very good. This is not so much of an issue on a top mount and with the some of the track day noise restrictions we have these days a screamer pipe wouldn't help.


Yes, the big injectors atomize the fuel just as well as the small ones, they just have an overall higher flow rate. Say my old 1,000's for example has 5 spraying holes in the nozzle, the 1,700s have 8 or 9 holes of the same size. So, same atomization at the same pressure, but more orifices spraying and delivering a higher total flow rate per minute. The 1700s will be enough for this setup. I have tuned a TT on E85 with 1,650 injectors on a 3071r and made around 700 BHP comfortably in terms of IDC.

I always had a "screamer" pipe, even on the hybrid. They are only screamers if using a short tube and venting it over the hood/bonnet. When using a long pipe and routing it under the car, you barely can notice it sound wise. My car passes 90 DB sound limit at the track with no problem with the atmospheric dump, and as you say divorcing it from the exhaust is obviously increasing efficiency.


----------



## John-H

Madmax199 said:


> The forum format seems to be on its death bed these days, and this is the only TT forum left that's not a complete ghost town. So I'll continue to post my build progress here until the wheels fall off (it also helps to have everything catalogued in one place which is impossible with newer popular media). ...


Very true. Good to see you still posting interesting stuff Max and in a place where you can actually find it again. What's the point in trying to make a technical reference on Facebook or Twitter? Here today, gone tomorrow never to be found again. Forums have structure.



Madmax199 said:


> Delta4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a sheet of glass your using with the 3m paper ? like the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, old school method of resurfacing a head. Works like a charm! Straight-edged longitudinally, transversally, and diagonally (before, the head was full of high spots in the periphery and low spots around the cylinder bore).
Click to expand...

That's such a convenient method. I used to have a piece of float glass but don't know where it went. The last alloy head I did was on my RS2000 mk5 but I had that ground at much inconvenience.


----------



## SC0TTRS

John-H said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The forum format seems to be on its death bed these days, and this is the only TT forum left that's not a complete ghost town. So I'll continue to post my build progress here until the wheels fall off (it also helps to have everything catalogued in one place which is impossible with newer popular media). ..
> 
> Very true. Good to see you still posting interesting stuff Max and in a place where you can actually find it again. What's the point in trying to make a technical reference on Facebook or Twitter? Here today, gone tomorrow never to be found again. Forums have structure
Click to expand...

Thanks for the share MAX, love reading through it 

Yes, it seems forums are a dying breed in a world where people want instant answers to every, instant uploads and real-time chats, but have you tried searching of information Social Media?? :lol: :lol:

Complete joke!

Forums will still have a place, but will be solely for archiving and past references, instead of current affairs.. :?


----------



## Baalthazaar

This must be the third time I have read through this thread, and I'm still finding so much useful stuff, I just wish you lived round the corner Max. Please keep posting it's the only way I get to pick your brains.... :!:


----------



## Madmax199

NickG said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The forum format seems to be on its death bed these days, and this is the only TT forum left that's not a complete ghost town. So I'll continue to post my build progress here until the wheels fall off (it also helps to have everything catalogued in one place which is impossible with newer popular media).
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me about it!! :roll: I'm basically updating my thread these days for my own benefit (Think dramatic motorsport quadruple barrel roll with head injury leading to amnesia! :lol: )
> 
> Anyway, i see your progress on the Facebook all the time anyway, but good to be able to see it in a format i can return to in the future! Just been having a discussion with Tom about Manifolds... trying desperately to convince him to go Cast as i see nothing but trouble from tubular manifolds!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Click to expand...

I know Nick, Tom is drinking the FB coolaid. Good tubular manifolds will last, but not nearly as much as a good cast one like the PagParts units. It is one thing to run one on a big turbo used in its ideal efficiency pressure ratio, but it's a whole entire different ballgame when you're pushing a smaller size turbo in racing environment. Went through it in my evo days, 3 different exotic manifolds that everyone in that community swear by, cracked all 3 whithin one racing season at 45 psi of boost on an FP Green turbo. The harsh environment that we put these things through mandate a solid cast unit.


----------



## Madmax199

Let me say that I'm glad that you guys are still here and still enjoy build threads like this one. Thanks everyone!

The head resurfacing method is pretty simple, effective, budget friendly, and rewarding at the same time. I planned to drop the to the only local speed shop machining that worked on the 20v head (you need specific tools to do very small inlet valves), when I went there he wanted $500 for surfacing the head and reassembly. 500 USD is almost two race tires for me, or towing fuel cost for an entire racing seaon. Hell no I'm not spending that kind of money just to have a head cut and components reassembled.

I had to buy a valve spring compressor online ($30) and make a bit to compress the freekishly small intake valves - I used a o2 sensor socket and no compressor tool to compress and remove the exhaust valves. And it cost me about $40 for everything needed to do the head surfacing, I always keep a few sheets of glass around as they're useful for various jobs on a car. If you have the knowledge and time, doing everything yourself and the building process, is just as fun to me as racing the car. You get to control everything, and enjoy it more when it's all put together while you're getting the results from your own work.

I also went against the online consensus and only replaced things that were weak points. There is is this false notion that you must change and upgrade everything that rubbs me the wrong way. Obviously a professional builder is going to always tell you to change everything! More parts and more labor means more money in their pockets, I cringe when I see the amount of money spent on these builds and half of it is just bells and whistles that will not do anything except fill up a spec list. To date I only replaced the rods on the bottom end. The head, I changed the exhaust valves for stronger Iconel ones, a set of Rosten valve springs because they're cheaper and allow to retain the factory retainers. I also made sure to stay with the factory style triple grove design on the valves. The design is solid and proven, and you don't have to add keepers to the bottomless list of parts when doing a head build. So exhaust valves, springs, and I put new valve stem seals (guides were checked and came out in spec). That's all!!!

Here are a few pics of the head building process and the tools used/fabricated:

Head after one pass with coarse grit sandpaper. You can still see all the high spots in the periphery and the dark low spots towards the combustion chamber.

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










After I was done with the coarse grit. I did one pass with fine grit after that just for good measure 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










All the stuff used to surface the head. I used 80 grid to do the cutting, and 150 grit surface finish. Used 3m spray adhesive to lay the sandpaper onto the glass. And lastly a pair of suction cups. 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Straight edge diagonally (also proofed longitudinally, transversally, side and center with feeler gauge) 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Being a one-man band, you have to find trick to do everything. Turns out magnetic tip small screwdrivers are perfect to catch and relodge those pesky keepers. One hand compresses the spring the other hand pulls or reseat the keeper. Sounds easier than it is doing it alone.










Had to make/machine this bit to compress the inlet valves. The ones that came with the spring compressor tool were all way too big. 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










My makeshift exhaust valve compressor with o2 sensor socket. I used this to pull the exhaust valves out (before I bought a spring compressor).


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










And how it worked. You drop a magnet on the keepers, push down to compress the spring, and the magnet captures the keepers and you just release the spring. Quite simple! 

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view










Spring compressor tool I bought online. I added my aluminum jack handle to the lever to multiply the leverage and reduce effort needed to collapse the springs. This is a must if working solo like I do (one day the kids will be big enough to serve their purpose in life ... helping me with my crazy projects).


__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view


----------



## Madmax199

Started her for the first time the other day without an exhaust bolted. It was cold, E85 with its higher flash point needs a minute before it start to combust completely. It didn't sound too good. People on FB even questioned the health of the motor and thought is was running on missing cylinders.






Well, yesterday I did a bit of fabricating to mate the new downpipe to my old 3.5 aluminum exhaust and fired her up. Sounds much better (although I still have a ton of vacuum hoses hanging open (wastegate lines and DV lines aren't hooked up yet) - and the exhaust is not fully sealed (waiting for two triangle flange gaskets I ordered online to arrive).


----------



## StuartDB

How would 2 people help when fitting the collets? I only used the magnets to retrieve them and grease to return them with a plastic tool, otherwise they just stuck to anything metallic.


----------



## Madmax199

StuartDB said:


> How would 2 people help when fitting the collets? I only used the magnets to retrieve them and grease to return them with a plastic tool, otherwise they just stuck to anything metallic.


You used the screw type spring compressor, that type holds the valve spring compreeed for you. The type I used is a lever type that you have to manually push down to compress and hold it down in the compressed position. That occupies one hand, and you're left with one hand to fiddle the keepers back in place. With the tool I have, and used, having a second set of hands to compress the spring while you handle the keepers would have been super helpful and time saving. :wink:


----------



## Pukmeister

If the valves and collets are small, you might be better off with a motorcycle valve spring compressor.

(Try doing a 20V Yamaha R1 head if you think a TT is small.)


----------



## Delta4

Keep the post's coming max, my days of enjoying being up my ear's in spanners and engine parts maybe fading ( cba anymore ) away but i do enjoy threads like this


----------



## desertstorm

I bought one of these from Fleabay. Found 2 or 3 posts where people had used this with no issues on the 1.8T 20V to remove the valves and refit them. Not the fastest thing but I am in no rush really and I am not using it on a daily basis.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pc-Valve-S ... 2571009609?


----------



## StuartDB

Madmax199 said:


> StuartDB said:
> 
> 
> 
> How would 2 people help when fitting the collets? I only used the magnets to retrieve them and grease to return them with a plastic tool, otherwise they just stuck to anything metallic.
> 
> 
> 
> You used the screw type spring compressor, that type holds the valve spring compreeed for you. The type I used is a lever type that you have to manually push down to compress and hold it down in the compressed position. That occupies one hand, and you're left with one hand to fiddle the keepers back in place. With the tool I have, and used, having a second set of hands to compress the spring while you handle the keepers would have been super helpful and time saving. :wink:
Click to expand...

I thought the manual ones were used for over head valves where I have seen youtube videos of them fit the 'keepers' by slamming the cap over them.


----------



## Madmax199

My new engine bay configuration with some custom things I always wanted to do.

1) Relocated aluminum power steering reservoir

2) Fabricated fuel surge tank

3) Home made fuel pressure gauge

4) AEM 400 liter/hour inline pump

5) Relocated aluminum coolant overflow tank

These things were a necessity for the new setup and bay configuration. I already had a 265 l/h DW65v pump in the fuel tank, but that was not going to cut it for the demand of the new turbo. There are several very nice but also very expensive options available, that's not the philosophy with my build. I want quality and functionality but it has to be reasonably priced. So I went the inline pump route. I had used this type setup in the past with a walbro 255 and Bosch 044 (270 l/h), but went away from that once the DW65v in-tank became available. The drawbacks are noise and possible starvation if the feed pump in the tank become overwhelmed by the bigger upstream pump (this tend to happen when the tank is low and taking high G corners).

My solution was to find an inline pump that is quiet, can deliver enough fuel flow, and place a surge tank before it so it can never overwhelm the smaller downstream pump. I turned to my people at AEM (I'm an official dealer for them and have done development work with them with their Standalone ECUs) - they assured me that their pumps are not as whiny as the walbros and 044 and delivers the punch. So they sent me a unit with slight cosmetic blemishes to try. Boy am I happy with this thing. It's so quiet compared to the old inline pumps I used in the past that I had to put my hand on it several time to check my sanity and make sure it's pumping. All an in all, even if I had to pay for the pump, this setup is capable of 1,000 HP and cost a fraction of the other alternatives.

Inline pump, PS reservoir, inline fuel pressure gauge, and fuel surge tank


















Coolant overflow tank moved to the other side of the bay


----------



## Madmax199

While I was at it, I decided to get lightweight pulleys. The key here IMO is to free up some power that is used to move the heavier accessory pulleys... but not to touch the crank pulley as it's also a damper, and not to underdrive anything. This will also allow the motor to rev up more freely/quicker (just like a lighter flywheel does).

Alternator 









Power steering


----------



## Madmax199

Some updates to my BT winter project.

Added a big velocity stack and an even bigger filter than before



















Upgraded to a CSF all aluminum radiator to replace the old leaking Mishimoto










Bought one of those Ignitron standalone ECU to play with. I know it's a bit crazy when I already have an AEM Infinity standalone, but I wanted to have a chance to play with this new option.


----------



## desertstorm

Hi Max did you change the alternator to a smaller one as well? I changed mine to a 70A item and weighed a few bits and pieces on it as well. The rotor is 900g lighter on a 70A compared to a 120A item. Overall 1.3Kg lighter.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9079551
It' s CSF radiators as well, " Upgraded to a CFS aluminum to replace the old leaking Mishimoto" Just in case anybody reads the thread and does a google search.
Think I will probably get one on mine when the weather starts picking up. The qulaity looks very good.
https://www.csfrace.eu/CSF-Race-Radiato ... -Golf.html It's 7025


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Madmax199 said:


> I know it's a bit crazy


You've always been crazy Max! :lol:

Make sure you post your thoughts on the pulley's after you install them, I have always been curious if it's worth the cash to get them done.

Good to see you still keeping the build running strong!


----------



## Madmax199

desertstorm said:


> Hi Max did you change the alternator to a smaller one as well?


No just a lighter pulley on the factory size alternator. I was tempted at some point to go with a smaller, low output alternator, but decided that it's not worth it to mess with the electronics that rely on good voltage under load (Standalone ECU and aftermarket coilpacks).

12.2 ounces (345 g) on the factory alternator pulley










4.4 ounces (124 g) on the lightweight pulley. So less than 1/2 the weight.










PS: thanks for pointing out the CSF typo - corrected


----------



## Madmax199

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's a bit crazy
> 
> 
> 
> You've always been crazy Max! :lol:
> 
> Make sure you post your thoughts on the pulley's after you install them, I have always been curious if it's worth the cash to get them done.
> 
> Good to see you still keeping the build running strong!
Click to expand...

Yes, definitely crazy for pushing the envelope on a MK1 TT when everyone think it's madness!

Pulleys have been on and running for a while now. Nothing to report except more eager to rev motor with the lower inertia accessory pulleys.


----------



## desertstorm

A smaller alternator will still provide plenty of power for the car. Most motorsport alternators are 40-60A . You don't have heated seats, sound systems or a load of the other power hungry stuff. Most of the time the engine is running at higher RPM so the alternator is making plenty of power. I haven't found an issue with the one I put on.


----------



## Madmax199

desertstorm said:


> A smaller alternator will still provide plenty of power for the car. Most motorsport alternators are 40-60A . You don't have heated seats, sound systems or a load of the other power hungry stuff. Most of the time the engine is running at higher RPM so the alternator is making plenty of power. I haven't found an issue with the one I put on.


I'm sure it would be fine with a 60 amp alternator, I think I'm just playing it safe. My GM LS2 Yukon truck coilpacks really hates when voltage drops below 13.5v that's my biggest fear.... the ignition misfiring days (spark blowout under high boost) are over and I try to keep those days behind me.


----------



## Madmax199

We got a few warmer days here in the Northeast United States, so I got a chance to start working on the car again as time permits.

1) Project aero v3 is in full swing. I am upgrading the rear wing, upgrading the front splitter, adding a small rear spoiler, and finally upgrading the front fender/wing flares to fully cover the massive front tires.

2) I finally got my baffled oil pan situation sorted. What an ordeal that was! I was previously running a Forge baffled pan, the damn thing was a nightmare (apparently several others have reported similar issues so it's not just me). The pans they use to weld the baffling inserts are subpar and very soft. The welds went through the walls and kept allowing sweat leaks. The threads are also super soft and get damaged if you use them often (even being careful and not over torquing). I must have retapped new bigger threads 3 times on the drain plug. So I just grew tired of fixing this garbage and got rid of it. I ordered an exotic redesigned baffled pan that took forever to show up, and when it finally arrived there was not enough material for me to machine it down on the (gearbox side) to accept my pendulum plate which replace the dogbone design. Bummer!!! The backup was to get another factory pan and an aluminum baffle insert and welding that in. This whole thing took 2.5 months back and forth, which seriously delayed my winter progress. Happy that it's all sorted now. I also decided to flip VW the middle finger with their oil pan sealant design and went with a gasket... so much cleaner and easier.

The design and projected camber









Some CFD of the design 


















The execution of the design with third element added to the BYC wing, also regapped the elements and properly asjusted the overlap. 













































More appropriate flares added to the front fenders 









New oil pan with welded baffle insert, machined for pendulum mount plate, and oil pan gasket


----------



## desertstorm

I have a forge sump as well not very impressed with it TBH. I actually queried whether the plates had been welded in correctly as the amount of welds and length of them was very minimal. 
What did you use for the gates, the Viton ones in the Forge sumps seem like a good idea, others seem to use wired flaps which to me seem like a something that would have a short life.


----------



## Madmax199

desertstorm said:


> I have a forge sump as well not very impressed with it TBH. I actually queried whether the plates had been welded in correctly as the amount of welds and length of them was very minimal.
> What did you use for the gates, the Viton ones in the Forge sumps seem like a good idea, others seem to use wired flaps which to me seem like a something that would have a short life.


The inserts I welded use the hinged metal flaps. I have read countless debates on what is better. In practice, both seem to have their pros and cons but perform well when properly executed. We'll see how this goes, because the vitton flapped Forge one I had before was utterly crap.


----------



## Madmax199

Rear aero is looking pretty serious now, time to get the front up to par!


----------



## HOGG

Needs a wind tunnel

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmax199

HOGG said:


> Needs a wind tunnel
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


I wish I had that kind of budget lol. I'll gladly take it though if you want to sponsor it. 

However, for now CFD and scale model wind tunnel is telling me most of what I need to know. So gonna have to stick with with the poor man approach. :roll:


----------



## Sweeper1000

Hi Madmax! awesome project you have, sure a pleasure to read through all the pages 

Btw, you posted a video earlier, Auto X LFB footwork 




I like the sound of your bow, what's the manufacturer?


----------



## Madmax199

Sweeper1000 said:


> Hi Madmax! awesome project you have, sure a pleasure to read through all the pages
> 
> Btw, you posted a video earlier, Auto X LFB footwork
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the sound of your bow, what's the manufacturer?


The manufacturer is me, it's a Mitsubishi diaphragm-based metal valve that's modified for faster response and higher boost holding - it was dubbed the Madmax DV years ago on Vortex when I posted about it.


----------



## Sweeper1000

Madmax199 said:


> The manufacturer is me, it's a Mitsubishi diaphragm-based metal valve that's modified for faster response and higher boost holding - it was dubbed the Madmax DV years ago on Vortex when I posted about it.


It must be this thread https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread. ... ter-Valves
Unfortunately the pics are dead :?

I wonder what specifically about the customized mitsubishi valve that makes that chirp sound, have you thought about it?


----------



## HOGG

Now that's a DV

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Sweeper1000

Max, can you please re-upload the pics in the guide or here for this mod? I'm interested in making this mod on my tt engine!


----------



## Bajanfastcat

Hi Madmax.
We are going to build a tarmac rally TT.
On the ECU setup..we would like to use the same AEM. Did you build your own harness or did they supply.
Can you direct me.


----------



## Silver Greece

Really amazing TT project. Mad how i can contact you to ask a few questions?


----------

