# Mk2 Roadster Dampness Issues and Blocked Roof Drains



## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

Hi all, so I have some damp behind the passenger seat of my wifes TT. Where should I start to look for blocked drains ect? Or is there a common problem I should check? Any advice or pointers to guides would be great.

Many thanks

Rich


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Dirty Tdi* - Follow the links, all shall be revealed! 

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1813258

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1267289

*A Few Words on Clearing Drip Trays and Drain Tubes - *

You can use a vacuum cleaner to get debris out of the drip trays. Given the tight space, simply duct-tape a length of flexible tubing to the end of the vacuum hose in order to get it down inside the drip tray as this provides relatively good results. This should be a routine preventative maintenance practice especially late in the year when leaves are falling. And don't forget to check your front Plenum drains while you're at it.

Caution should be used when trying to clear the drain tube as it can make things worse. While some people have used a length of wire, which can do more damage than good and here's why; if the foam insert inside the drain tube is already starting to fail, you can end up breaking off pieces which only makes things worse. Also, if the wire is too stiff, it can push the drain tube completely off the drip tray.

The real problem with using anything to clear the drain tube, is unlike the sunroof drains*, the Roadster drain tubes do not empty directly onto open space below the vehicle. Instead, there's another panel below the bulkhead floor opening (shown below). So it's not really possible to push anything through and out. If the drain tube is really blocked, the best way to clear it is to remove it first and address the blockage. Otherwise you risk jamming what ever is in there further down and completely blocking the drain opening.

Unfortunately the only way to access the drain tube it is to remove the plastic panels behind the seats and get to it via the bulkhead between the cabin and trunk. Not fun, but not impossible either.

** Note* - VAG has a special "Drain Snake" tool *VAG 6620* for around 30 Euro which is designed for clearing sunroof drains . IMHO a length of 3mm diameter weed trimmer filament line is a much cheaper solution and it does exactly the same thing. In fact I used the weed trimmer filament on my Tiguan sunroof drain tubes and gas filler drain tubes and it worked perfectly.

*Fitment of the drain tube into the bulkhead floor. When removed, you can see that it does not drain into open space, but into a sub floor element.*








*VAG 6620 drain snake -*


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## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

Spot on, thanks. I did a bit of research on the given links and some other stuff I found by yourself and others.
I'm going to attempt to attach a photo, do you think this is the issue? It's holding a bit of water in the tray behind passenger side

EDIT: Also its draining underneath in various places. Does that look correct or should it be coming from the hole in the picture?


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## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

Also its draining underneath in various places. Does that look correct or should it be coming from the hole in the picture?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The drip-tray shouldn't have much standing water in it at all since it's got a bit of a V-shape at the bottom leading to the drain tube. Unfortunately, it's nearly impossible to get your hand down in there, so you can use a vacuum with a nozzle attachment and try to suck out any debris that's down there (do both sides while you're at it).

When you pour water into the drip tray, it will exit several areas under the vehicle since the drain is not directed straight out to the ground. If you look at the pictures in the post, you can see when you look inside the drain hole in the bulkhead floor, there's sheet metal directly below. So it's running around a bit before exiting.

Problem is, if the tube is not properly connected inside the bulkhead, some water may pass through, some water may not and end up inside the bulkhead and leak into the carpet. Only way to know for sure is to pull the rear seat panel and verify the tube is properly connected. While a wet carpet is one problem. corroded connectors and wiring on your fuel pump is the real problem if the drain tube is leaking.

To see what's going at the bottom of the trip tday, you can put your phone on video, and lower it upside down into the drip-tray to get a view of the drain. Then take it back out and check the video to see if there's any blockage. You may want to shine a flash light down there at the same time just to add some light.


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## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

The drip-tray isn't that deep either as it's not designed to hold water, just catch it. If the drain is blocked, the tray will fill up and water can spill over, so check that first.

You can pour some water into and see if it runs out. It may exit several holes since the drain is not directed straight out to the ground. If you look at the pictures in the post, you can see when you look inside the drain hole in the bulkhead floor, there's sheet metal directly below. So it's running around a bit before exiting.

Problem is, if the tube is not properly connected inside the bulkhead, some water may pass through, some water may not and end up inside the bulkhead and leak into the carpet. Only way to know for sure is to pull the rear seat panel and verify the tube is properly connected. While a wet carpet is one problem. corroded connectors and wiring on your fuel pump is the real problem if the drain tube is leaking.

As mentioned in the post, you can put your phone on video, and lower it upside down into the drip-tray to get a view of the drain. Then take it back out and check the video to see if there's any blockage. You may want to shine a flash light down there at the same time just to add some light.[/quote]

Ive used a wet vac and cleaned out the drain. Only problem was I demolished the speaker cover in the process.xD

The tube looks like it just runs into the under carriage, I can even see braided cables there!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Is that picture from inside the bulkhead or from directly under the car??

As you can see with the seat rear panel removed, the tube is easy to get to with the speaker out of the way. With the end of the tube removed, you can see it's not possible to see directly through the opening to the pavement. So it seems there are two holes; one in the bottom of the bulkhead where the end of the drain tube connects, and another as you've shown somewhere off-set from this one.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you want to remove the seat rear panel to get to the drain tube, it comes off easily enough. The trick to any panel removal, is to get your hand right at the clips as much as possible and then pull. It's a bit intimidating at first, but they'll come away with enough force.

Just follow this set of instructions -

*How To: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Seat Rear Panel Removal*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1597801

Very interesting photograph from inside the bulkhead. My Roadster does not have the insulating material shown in yours. I can see where that would make it difficult to tell if the hose had been knocked out of position, especially by a technician who has just done some work on the fuel sender and wasn't careful about ensuring the drain hose was properly seated.

As you can see in mine, there's no sound deadening material at all. I wonder in which year Audi got around to adding it?


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## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> If you want to remove the seat rear panel to get to the drain tube, it comes off easily enough. The trick to any panel removal, is to get your hand right at the clips as much as possible and then pull. It's a bit intimidating at first, but they'll come away with enough force.
> 
> Just follow this set of instructions -
> 
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1597801


Brilliant, thanks. Both sides done now. Albeit with 2 broken speaker covers, but I can buy replacements, thats no issue.

And to confirm, I traced the water ingress from here (pictured). So I'm guessing the drain was backing up and it was coming along the inner door sill. Appreciate you're help. Thanks Swiss.

P.s. no idea why my pictures are not correctly rotated, sorry.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If the carpet behind the seat is wet near the door, then I would suspect the drip-tray may be blocked and water is running down from inside the sill as you've shown.

If the carpet is wet all the way across to the center console, and the drain is not blocked, then I would suspect the drain tube is not seated properly.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Hope that helped. Oh, and by the way - welcome to the forum. 

Since you're new here, hopefully your Roaster's top has been trouble free. But just as a "heads up" there's a long history of them quitting in mid operation for no apparent reason.

This problem is preventable and is actually quite a simple fix, just remove and clean the roof flap servos. Dealers have been charging to replace them but that doesn't always solve the problem.

This post is worth a read if you need a little preventative maintenance project -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1786641


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## Dirty Tdi (Jun 14, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Hope that helped. Oh, and by the way - welcome to the forum.
> 
> Since you're new here, hopefully your Roaster's top has been trouble free. But just as a "heads up" there's a long history of them quitting in mid operation for no apparent reason.
> 
> ...


Yeah it helped, your advice was spot on thanks. Just wish I had followed the guide properly and removed the whole back panel rather than just the speaker covers haha. Think I caught it before it was too late as it was only damp and not soaking.

No roof issues, touch wood. So far just the regulator has been replaced. Will take a look at that link, a job for next week weather dependant. Thanks again


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Hi there, I am new here, brought my roadster back in October, and have the same problem with water coming in from behind passenger seat, I have taken off the cover behind the seat and found the pipe, I was so happy until I did a water test with the cover off so I could ensure the pipe was seated properly, and to my horror although some water went down the pipe a lot of it missed the pipe and just ran straight in to the car behind the pipe? Any ideas what to do now, or what the problem is? Thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Tina 49er, Welcome to the TTF.
This should help, it's from the MK2 KB. Have a read.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1831981
Hoggy.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Yikes! thats beyond the scope of my skills - it would seem that my pipe is disconnected from the top where it joins the pan although it felt really secure from what I could feel, looks like more money to spend ....thanks for your help this is a brilliantly interesting forum


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Another good post here. You may want to take print out the attachment or at least ask the Audi service if they'll sort it for you...

*Roadster Drain Hose Technical Product Information*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1926143


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Great thanks, I will ask them, will let you all know how I get on


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

Having just finished dealing with my second episode of blocked drain holes I can offer a few ideas.
1. If you hear a sloshing sound coming from behind the seats, check it out and deal with it, as below, asap.
2. Check the drainage channel and the bulkhead below it every now and then. After you've washed the car would be a good time. Lower the hood half way and shine a pen torch down there.
3. If there's water in the drainage channel or the bulkhead below you need to get it out. I adapted an old home brew siphon to get a straight rod which I attached to 2 - 3 feet of plastic tubing. Siphon as much water as possible out of both compartments, you want to reduce as much as possible the amount of water that gets under the carpet.
4. You should now be able to see the drainage holes at the front end of the drainage channel, they are about 5mm diam. Mine were blocked with an accumulation of silt / road dirt and I was able to clear them by poking them with a stiff wire attached to a stick.







:lol:
5. If there's larger debris in there then you need to get it out. I also checked the passenger side while I was at it and found 3 dried berries gathered around the drainage holes. The bottom of the channel is too deep for the average vac's crevice nozzle so I inserted a 2 foot length of garden hose into the nozzle and sealed it with tape. This will then give you the reach and flexibility to remove any debris in the channel.
6. Check that its running free by carefully pouring some water into the channel and seeing that it runs out. You should be able to see it dripping out under the car.
7. Dry your carpet as soon as possible to prevent it going mouldy and smelling damp for months. If need be mop up any excess water with a rag or sponge first. I placed a small electric fan heater in the car pointing to the carpet, on a medium setting, and let it run for 4 or 5 hours, for several days on the trot. There is a waterproof membrane under the carpet which will hold the water for ages if left to dry naturally.

Read all the other info that been posted on here to get an ideal of how the set up looks and for all the other very helpful advice.
Unless you are a trained gynaecologist you are going to find it pretty fiddly to access the areas that need clearing. A pen torch is invaluable. This is a crap design by Audi which if left to the main dealers would literally cost you £1000s to be sorted.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks, I love your technology and your approach is fab - my problem is that the water is not going down the hose, some how and I can't see why it's pouring straight into the bulkhead - i have been leaving the car in the sun with the hood down, I have used wooden cat litter to try to absorb all the moisture in the carpet, went to put my hood up last night and now the windows are out of sync and not shutting properly - the drivers side stops two thirds of the way up, after a couple of resets on the window it seems okay, but was too scared to put the hood down today in case something else happened, am so bloody sad, I love the car but it's costing a bomb- I need a miracle and a big purse I think...unless anyone has any other ideas? Thanks zephyR2


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## ZephyR2 (Feb 20, 2013)

So your drainage channel isn't holding any water? 
Have you tried pouring some water into the channel and seeing where it goes. Two know issues are the top of the hose had come away from the drainage channel or the hose has come away from the hole at the bottom of the bulkhead.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

To avoid any damage to the drain tubes, you can try a length of weed wacker trimmer line. I think it's around 3mm in diameter.

You just have the be aware of the two small triangular supports at the opening of the drain and possibly cut down the bristles so it will fit past them. Then just be careful not to press to hard and possibly dislodge the hose from the tray. Although if the hose is that blocked, it may be worth pulling the rear seat panel, and removing the hose so you can clear it.

One of the Forum members used silicone when he reconnected the hose to the drip tray as shown here. Note the use of silicone is not mentioned in the Workshop Manual or factory repair guide.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Morning no tray is not holding water, when we did the water test some went down the pipe but a lot came down behind the pipe- so I assume the pipe is dislodged or the tray is but I can't tell, the pipe felt like it was fixed at the top where is disappears up to the drip tray, 
I don't know how to see what's going on- but it's just occurred to me that I have been putting my roof all the way down and just leaving the flaps up, that's to far down isn't it? That's why I can't see the drip tray properly??? Can I tell if it's moved from the top, how can I see the pipe connection from the top?.
I will go in through the back and take the speaker out- again and take yet another look.
Thanks for all help


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The drip tray is just a pain to access whether the top is up or down (flap up). I found the only way to know what's down there is with a Smartphone. Otherwise, if you suspect the hose has come loose, the you'll have to pull the back panel and check from inside the bulkhead.

Once you have the panel off, you'll find it easier to use your smartphone again as trying to get your head up inside to see where the hose connects to the drip tray is impossible.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Brilliant thanks so much- I will have another go this weekend-obviously I can't get any help though... social distancing an all that...booo!!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

As mentioned previously, you might try a length of the plastic filament used on a weed trimmer. It may be stiff enough to work into the drain opening/hose without too much difficulty.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Hi guys, well,I took the panel off behind the passenger seat, I can't get to the top of the pipe, but I can see that there is no apparent blockage as the water follows freely into the bulk head! I have left the cover off and put a towel in there to catch any moisture which I am changing daily so as it doesn't hold the damp. But now To make matters worse I went to check the car today and to give it a bit of a run and the warning lights all stayed on after I turned the ignition on and they remained on after I took the key out for about 30 seconds, what is going on! Is it the damp? Have I disturbed something in the bulkhead that's causing a problem? I was careful....I am totally stuck!
Now because of lockdown I can't get any help with it at all. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## MarksBlackTT (Nov 29, 2016)

Tina 49er said:


> Hi guys, well,I took the panel off behind the passenger seat, I can't get to the top of the pipe, but I can see that there is no apparent blockage as the water follows freely into the bulk head! I have left the cover off and put a towel in there to catch any moisture which I am changing daily so as it doesn't hold the damp. But now To make matters worse I went to check the car today and to give it a bit of a run and the warning lights all stayed on after I turned the ignition on and they remained on after I took the key out for about 30 seconds, what is going on! Is it the damp? Have I disturbed something in the bulkhead that's causing a problem? I was careful....I am totally stuck!
> Now because of lockdown I can't get any help with it at all. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Take the car out for a half hour run to the supermarket, lights should go out once you get down the road a bit. Doubt it's anything to do with your damp issues, probably more to do with the battery.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks, drove round for 40 minutes, nice empty roads and no lights, no problems at all...it hasn't been driven for 10 days so am hoping that will be it- will give it a run every other day, fingers crossed


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## MarksBlackTT (Nov 29, 2016)

Tina 49er said:


> Thanks, drove round for 40 minutes, nice empty roads and no lights, no problems at all...it hasn't been driven for 10 days so am hoping that will be it- will give it a run every other day, fingers crossed


Good stuff  Don't forget the milk or bread whilst out :roll: Oh, and try blasting all the hot air downwards to help dry the carpets faster.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

MarksBlackTT said:


> Tina 49er said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks, drove round for 40 minutes, nice empty roads and no lights, no problems at all...it hasn't been driven for 10 days so am hoping that will be it- will give it a run every other day, fingers crossed
> ...


Appreciated Mark, shopping done, no bladdy eggs though, car was smooth no probs, carpets drying nicely too  
I get the feeling I am not out of the woods with this car yet, I do lurve it though
Be back soon...oh and cheers for all help


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## BillyP (Jan 11, 2013)

Here's a picture with the roof halfway down and looking from above and down on the drip tray plastic tube egress/exit.

In this picture the black rubber tube with a 90 degree bend is not coming through the silver hole in the bulk head. It may sit behind the hole and still catch some water if you are testing with a water hose 

After having my turn with wet carpet and corroded fuel pump module I regularly check that the rubber hose is connected to the round plastic tube.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks billy, funnily enough after dissecting everything over the last two Saturdays, today I have found my problem, the hose is correctly seated and not blocked. Yesterday I nearly threw in the towel after taking endless videos, water tests and taking the whole tube out. This morning I decided to take some more video with the hood in lots of different positions and I could move my phone a centimetre or so towards the back of the car and it revealed a hole, the drip tray is broken, right next to where the pipe attaches It didn't show up on any other videos, so it's pure luck I found it.









So now, unless anyone Has a better idea or knows how to replace a drip tray? I think I can take the hose off and squeeze my hand in the little gap and repair it from underneath with some fibreglass resin.

Oh and the other problem I had, someone suggested that it might be a flat battery and give the car a good run, which I now do regularly and all seems well, no other strange faults being thrown up.

Just this repair to do to the drip tray and I hope I am good to go.
It's been touch and go, but I still love the car.
As ever your comments and any advice is very welcome.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Wow, that's an amazing find! When you get the repair done, some pictures would be a great addition! It will be interesting to see how you get to it also considering that's such a difficult part to get to.

I've added your find and photo to the *How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Roadster Drain Hose Access* post as that's the first time I've seen a defect like that. Definitely worth sharing and I doubt many people would find it.

I wonder if the previous owner was trying to unblock the drain and was randomly poking the tray with something. That's not an easy spot to get to, so it would make me think someone was intentionally trying to jam something down there for some reason.


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## BillyP (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks for sharing and updating the knowledge base!

Sometimes one feels like a detective trying to find the culprit. But oh how satisfying when one succeeds

I hope this can be fixed without removing the roof.


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks, yes I do feel so, so pleased that I have found the problem, even though it's not going to be easy to fix.

Whoever did it must have used some force to snap a chunk out like that, And why? am wondering where the missing piece is?

I can squeeze my left hand in where the pipe joins the drip tray from below, am hoping I can use fibreglass resin to patch it up from below, but have been told that fibreglass may not adhere to the plastic.

Plan b is to use (apologies for this) gaffer tape to form a base from the bottom and then, looking at the drip tray from the top, with the hood in the right position about 2/3rds of the way down I can see the Hole and think I can drop some resin or liquid plastic in using a pipette so that it forms a little pool on top of the gaffer tape - that is If I can find the right stuff.

But if anyone has any other ideas, let me know.
Will keep you posted and get some pictures for you.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you're going through the bulkhead to get to it, you may find it easier to work on it by removing the seat so you have a bit more room. When I was running my reverse camera wiring through the bulkhead, I slid the seat full forward and looped the belt over the roll bar. Lack of workspace in the Roadster makes this a challenge unto itself. I've added some old pictures of mine, but for the life of me can't see how to access the drain pan from inside the bulkhead. I know Audi made some changes over the years, so maybe you can get to it in yours (fingers crossed).

From the few pictures I can find of the drip tray on the internet, I was able to see the letters PP molded into it which would indicate it's made out of Polypropylene. Fortunately, the surface you need to repair is relatively flat as you can see in the picture below.

If you wouldn't mind can you please photo-document and post your repair as this has never been done in the Forum - you're a bit of a Pathfinder in this regard. I would be very keen on adding it as a "How To" in the Knowledge Base. Don't be shy with the number of pictures, the more the better! 

Permabond has two products; TA4610 and TA4620 which have good adhesion with polypropylene.

Here's the material data sheet for it -
View attachment TA4610_TDS (1) (1).pdf

There's also a company called Tech-Bond that sells plastic patch kits that might be useful -
Tech-Patch Pipe and Tank Repair Page - tbbonding - The Adhesive Solutions Site

You can see their demo video here -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEA3orz ... e=youtu.be


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Until you can get this repair sorted, or if you have to leave your Roadster outside all the time, you may want to invest in a half-car cover. I've had mine for several years and it's perfect for keeping the top dry and prevents debris from collecting and blocking drip tray drain and front plenum drains. For around 15-Euro, it does the job as well as many of the more expensive covers available.

*Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Half-Cover*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 2&start=30


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Thanks that looks great, I have a cover which I stopped using as the amount of damp in the car made so much condensation.
I spent loads more on the cover than you and yours looks so much better than mine....always learning :lol:


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## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Hi,

I have been through a similar thing recently, what probably happened is that something fell down into the tray from the rear parcel shelf - the sides are not sealed. Then when the roof was cycled the mechanism pushed the object down and it smashed through the bottom of the tray. In my case it was a small glass bottle.



















Good luck in sealing it from the bottom, it should be possible with the right product.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Holy cow! 

The cause of the damage makes perfect sense. I often warn my wife not to put anything in top stowage area and you've proven my point exactly! I had never considered that something could roll down the side and into the drip tray, but that's obviously a pretty serious risk. It's an unfortunate incident, and I have added this cautionary tale to the Roadster Compendium.

Agreed, there's simply no access to the drip tray from inside the bulkhead. :?

Can you please post some more pictures of what the area looks like with the top removed? The more the merrier as there are none in the Forum (and none that I could find) for the Mk2 anywhere on the internet either. These are worth their weight in gold! Any information you can provide about removing and installing the top would be a huge addition to the Forum.

It would be really interesting to know how you got this all sorted, where you had it done, and how much time and money was required.

Also noticed a stray screw (circled)...do you know where it belongs?


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## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Just to expand things a bit to try to help others;

My car is a bit of a water sponge, the drivers (RHD) side of the car seems to have had water from every possible entry point, oddly the passenger side is bone dry.

As you can see from the photos the tray (Drivers, or right hand side.) is completely smashed, far worse than on Tina 49's car.

Its actually a very tough plastic, so I cant really see how that piece would have been knocked out by any cleaning effort, I suspect that it has suffered from the same issue as mine - something fell down into the tray.

As mine was completely smashed, a repair wasn't an option so it had to be replaced. The part itself is actually not that easy to come by - Audi UK wanted around £70, and it wasn't available immediately - I suspect that this isn't a part that is changed that often. I ended up buying it from E-bay Germany for about 35 euro.

I spoke to my local VAG specialist - they had never tackled removal of a roof before and quoted 2 full days(£850) in the shop to do the job, so I decided to tackle it myself.

There is an Audi Workshop procedure in the Wiki that I followed almost exactly, its actually not that difficult a job if you take your time and work slowly and methodically. I would however offer the following advice.

1. Mark the position of the roof brackets before you loosen anything - that way when you put it back you can line it up correctly, failure to do this could mean a lot of adjustment to get the roof working again.

2. it will take two people to do this, three if you can - the roof is very heavy and has a lot of cables/ hydraulic pipes attached when you remove it.

3. It was clear that water had been running through the compartment for some time - you can see sludge in the bottom in the picture I posted - clean this out and check for corrosion, remarkably, my car was fine.

4. Once the tray is in place take the opportunity to test the water run off, you don't want to do this twice.

If you have two people, a bit of space and are OK with the spanners this is quite do-able in a day, i think I took 5-6 hours. Its also work noting that its very easy to lose fixings down inside the car - prime example is the bolt in the bottom of the compartment - that's one of the main fixings for the hood - easy to get once the hood is off, not so easy if you drop it trying to get in back in afterwards. One of those expandable sticks with a magnet on the end was invaluable.

Finally if your car has gotten really wet you should really remove the carpet to get it dry - The carpet and insulation underneath are very thick - it could take months to dry out of its own accord - the carpet may seem dry but in reality there are litres of water held in the insulation below.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well done. Quite a job I'm sure! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

• Were there any rivets you had to cut and replace? 
• Is everything just screwed/bolted together? 
• Any additional bits necessary to have on hand? For example, when people pull the door cards, it's often mentioned that new door clips are required.
• Anything that should be checked for possible replacement due to age or wear while it's all apart?

As to the workshop manual, is this the one you used...

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
*1.2 General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220)*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

If you still have the old broken drip tray, it would be interesting to see it cleaned up just to get an idea of how badly damaged it was.

Lesson learned - *Never put anything in the convertible top stowage area*!


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

I had a similar experience with an item I foolishly put in that area and then during some hard cornering it had slid to one side unnoticed, the next time I tried to put the roof down it wouldn't lay flat,  luckily I put the roof straight back up and investigated for the object which was a damp absorbing pack wedged against the mech and now the roof would not lock shut as mech was twisted.
Long story short £300 and these guys re aligned the roof, thinking I got away light and lesson learned, maybe keep wind deflector permanently up to discourage putting things there. :?

https://www.caymanautos.co.uk/convertib ... airs-kent/

https://www.caymanautos.co.uk/convertib ... airs/audi/


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ TTsdsgomg - What did you think of the service at Cayman Auto? Would you recommend them to other Forum members?


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ TTsdsgomg - What did you think of the service at Cayman Auto? Would you recommend them to other Forum members?


 Yes, they were very helpful and got me out of a jam ( literately )


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Amazing and brilliant getting the roof off...well I am taking some time to consider how to repair mine and with what, I am still drying it out, when I first realised the carpets were soaked, they Were unbelievably wet, so I have a towel in the bulkheads to soak up water before it gets to the carpet and I have cardboard wedges to get some air between the carpet and soundproofing and more under the soundproofing and kitchen roll inbetween these, I change it all regularly and it is slowly getting there.
I just hope I can fix it!!


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## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Yes, that's the manual - generally my first stop when trying to solve problems.

Specifically this section for the hood - https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/download/file.php?id=433843

The tray is held in with plastic trim rivets, having owned German cars for a while I had a stock of these to hand.

You also need some silicon sealant to re-attach the leading edge of the hood to the tray.

I did also take the chance to go over the hood and in particular the drainage channel in detail, everything is fine but I suspect my hood will need replacement in the next few years - purely down to wear and tear.

I still have the tray in the garage, will post photos later today.

I am still not 100% sure about how watertight my car is, but I know its not coming through the rear any more - I drove around with the rear interior panel off for a couple of weeks to be sure the area stayed dry.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

salsajason said:


> You also need some silicon sealant to re-attach the leading edge of the hood to the tray.


Sorry to ask so many questions...  ...but could can you post a photo of exactly where you applied the sealant? I was looking through the Workshop Manual and didn't see it mentioned. But it makes sense to add it given the age of our Roadsters.

If anyone is going to remove the top, it might be worth taking the time to carefully inspect all around the area where the convertible top meets the metal body work for any signs of corrosion. You might as well get it done while the top is already off. Depending on the age of your TT, this may still be under warranty so if you have a sympathetic dealership, it might be worth a chat.


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## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

Hi,

My car isn't suffering from corrosion in that area, I have looked at replacing that seal in its entirety before I twigged the issue with the drip trip.

The seal itself is a little worn at the bottom of the drivers door, as I am sure you are aware its a one piece seal that runs all the way round the car so its pricey. If I find it at the right price I might change it, but really, its not the cause of the problems. I wipe it with Silicon spray every month when I clean the car.

Here is what the tray looked like when it came out.

I had to google the bottle brand, I was shocked.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Wow, that's some serious damage!


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## salsajason (Apr 6, 2017)

For the record, this was not my bottle.


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

Sorry if slightly off topic as you have rear drain issue and this relates to the front, but are there any pics of 'plenum' removed to see exactly whats going on under there. In the light of 'salsajason' issues I thought I would check ALL drains and don't really want to disturb the front plenum' so i poured some water and shone a touch and apart from lots of muck there appears to be 2 holes, can anyone confirm all is correct, the water quickly drains down the round hole 2 and ends up on the floor but seems to be reluctant to drain through plenum hole 1 with the toothed rubber surround. :?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Based on the accumulation of dirt and debris in there, you may want to pull the plenum and give it a good clean. The wiper arms have to come off in order to remove the plenum. Here's a picture of the VAG T10369/1 wiper arm puller. A little penetrating oil on the nuts left overnight will help make them easier to remove. Be sure to mark the wipers before you remove them (tape on the windshield) so you can put them back in exactly the same position.

*How to: Plenum Removal for Drain Inspection & Cleaning*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1979747

You can find more drain issues here -

*Drainholes on the TT*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1144209


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## Tina 49er (Oct 18, 2019)

Tina 49er said:


> Amazing and brilliant getting the roof off...well I am taking some time to consider how to repair mine and with what, I am still drying it out, when I first realised the carpets were soaked, they Were unbelievably wet, so I have a towel in the bulkheads to soak up water before it gets to the carpet and I have cardboard wedges to get some air between the carpet and soundproofing and more under the soundproofing and kitchen roll inbetween these, I change it all regularly and it is slowly getting there.
> I just hope I can fix it!!


So its been a whole summer of trying to repair my driptray, we almost succeed - got the hole covered with sealant from top by carefully going through the hood mechanism with a blob on the end of an extended artists paintbrush - from the bottom we managed to secure a slice of duck tape for the sealant to sit on. but after weeks of careful application we discovered that the sealant didn't grip the smooth surface, to cut a very long story short I took it to Cayman Autos in the end and they replaced the drip tray and also resealed the passenger door which had not been sealed correctly after window regulator replacement which was done before i owned the car.

the cost was £1,100 in total, staggering - that did include a roof service - and I must say it open and closes very smoothly.

In addition to this in June I had had the window regulator on the drivers side replaced by VGS in Keston...well i supplied the kit for the replacement wire - which they fitted, but then they couldn't realign the window correctly, so now it doesn't go all the way down into the door... they said the kit supplied probably had the wrong length cable!! They also do not check that the door is resealed correctly after replacing a regulator, which I discovered when the driver side footwell started filling up with water via the sill, they have since replaced the liner on the inside of the door - But they treated me like a foolish woman and when i related the experiences of you guys on here they said that the articles were probably written by 12 year olds - needless to say I wont be going back there.

So I know my car quite well now - its dry, mostly, there is some seepage in via the rubber by the black triangle on the doors but I have seen on here that a guy has sealed his with silicone so that it just redirects the water away from the sill, so thats a job to do this weekend.

I have undertaken a full clean of all of the drainage holes, includng the ones under the plenum, the doors you name it, Just got to eliminate the last few dribbles from the doors.

Thanks so much for all of your help and advice  Oh and does anyone know the wiper motor part number? i might have to get a new one!!!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You can read up on the wiper motor replacement in the workshop manuals. Be aware these are written for LHD so fitment may be slightly different for RHD -

*FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs*
Section 2 - Electrical Wiring Diagrams, Communications and HVAC
2.1 Electrical System (A005TT01320)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

For part number searches, you can try either of these websites. Be sure you check if the part is RHD or LHD. If still unsure, just visit your local Audi Service/Parts Center, give them your VIN and they should be able to ensure you get the right part for your vehicle. Before you run off to eBay, keep in mind Audi is sometimes cheaper than resellers and includes a warranty for new parts.

One other note, when viewing these catalogs, some illustrations are generic, meaning they're used for multiple vehicles, so it might not look like a part in your car. The Audi TT Mk2 ashtray is a good example.

• Search for parts. Buying auto parts around the world. Auto parts catalogs.

Click on Original Catalogs
Click on Audi
Find the selection for TT
The TTs are under the third column, about half way down
Pick your year, engine, etc.
Select "Electronics"
* Note - If the newer catalog doesn't work, click on "Old version..." in the upper right corner of the window.

























• Срок регистрации домена oemepc.com истёк

Mouse over the area to the left of the VW Catalog and the Audi catalog will appear
The TTs are under the far right column, towards the bottom of the list
Pick your year
Select "Electronics"


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## boffin10 (Jun 12, 2016)

I too suffered the problem of wet carpet behind the driver's seat on my 2008 roadster. Couldn't get the drip tray drain to run free so removed the rear panel, took out the rear speaker & removed the drain pipe. Are people aware there is a foam liner circa 75mm long inside the horizontal part of the drain pipe. Pushing a wire or anything down the pipe to clear it (as suggested in this thread) risks snagging the liner & pushing it towards the pipe bend where it could compress & seal the pipe completely.

The purpose of the liner is not clear. My view is it could contribute to clogging the pipe if leaves, twigs & particles find their way down there. After drying the carpets & underlay I intend to re-fit the pipe without it. Does anyone think there is a downside to removing it?

I believe the liner is depicted in x-section in the top circular blow up of the schematic (but I don't have the diagram key)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *boffin10* - Actually that question has come up before, and no one seems to know. I have written to Webasto (the OEM who makes the convertible top) to see if they know why it's in there and if it should remain or be removed. I will also contact a colleague at Audi Service and see if he has any idea about it.

Initially, my thought was to help keep the shape of the tube, but on further consideration, I don't see how it would help given the tube is formed with a bend when manufactured. Now if they put a coil spring inside, that might help keep the tube from collapsing at the bend. But otherwise, I tend to agree the insert only seems to increase the problems with blockage more than preventing them.

*UPDATE #1* - This just in from a German TT forum -

_"If you take them out then you can hear them immediately, and you also know what they are good for.
The noise from outside and the rolling noise of the tires will then be considerably louder."_

*UPDATE #2* - And from my Audi Service Manager -

_"This is against dirt or noises from outside."_

So it's for reducing dirt and road noise? Huh. Who knew? :?


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## boffin10 (Jun 12, 2016)

Apologies SJP, although I searched the KB I didn't find anything about the foam insert.
As I was sceptical about the noise reduction, I ran the car without the foam inserts then with. I can confirm there is significantly more road noise when they are removed.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *boffin10* - Thanks for confirming!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Hi guys,

Ive had my 3.2 roadster for around 4 months now, absolutely loving her apart from one major niggle which has kinda come to be more notable over the last few weeks.

Im getting a sound of what seems to be quite a lot of water which seems to come from quite a way behind the passenger seat. I’ve also noticed that my rear passenger light assembly has quite a lot of water ingress in it - I can physically see water droplets in all of the lower portion (indicator, reverse lights) and a fair bit of condensation in the rest of the cluster.

Ive done the following:

Checked and cleared out any debris from all drain holes including doors, plenum cover, roof drip trays, spoiler drain holes - each had a fair bit of debris in which was cleared and then a litre of hot soapy water poured down each with the aid of plastic tubing and a funnel - water appeared to come out from under the car in the right place and at the right flow rate as I was trying to simulate a heavy rain fall by pouring the litre of water down fairly quickly.

Ive checked the boot lid by lifting it up quickly to see if there was any water slopping about in there but nothing, the spoiler drains run water out of them when boot is closed over the rear bumper out from above the number plate etc.

Ive looked in the boot itself, not had it all out yet, but from what I can see, no signs of water floating about as I’ve had my torch around the battery area and it looks bone dry.

The carpets all appear to be bone dry, and whilst I have not lifted them myself, the pollen filter was recently changed during a major service by a VW dealer and nothing was reported back indicating wet under carpet.

The condensation on the interior glass only occurs when the car has been run - a short journey in this cold weather leads to physical condensation on the rear window and the rest of the windows fogging up quite badly.

Ive tried running the car with air con on with auto on and off and it makes no difference - leave the stand for 20 mins and come back to her and it’s all steamed up. Tried opening the windows for the last bit of a journey, tried ac on full blast cold to reduce temp but as soon as it’s locked up, shortly after it all goes foggy and condensed, which to me means that something is heating up a source of water in the car and spoiling things.

There is sometimes a musty smell, but this only happens when the condensation appears and if I leave the car overnight, it’s clear as a bell in the morning with no odour.

The car is parked up on an incline with front higher than rear and passenger side higher than drivers so I was thinking any rear water would have been present in the drivers rear side, not the passenger side where the sound comes from if I brake sharply when driving,

Im at somewhat at a loss - I’m thinking the rear light having water in it has something to do with it, but the sound of the volume of liquid present is baffling to me.

Rear parcel shelf is bone dry, seat belts are bone dry when fully pulled out.

As mentioned, all carpets front and behind the seats are completely dry to the touch, pressing on them doesn’t seem to indicate water underneath them.

Im at a total loss, right now it’s the only thing that is spoiling my experience of the car so I would very much appreciate any input from you fellas to see if I can track it down - at this point in time, I’m thinking that running the car is providing some element of heat (possibly exhaust) that heats up wherever this water is located thus turning it into vapour leading to the condensation issues.

Cheers,
Steve


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, There are plenty of places for water ingress in the MK2 & a little damp will cause lots of condensation as the weather temp drops.
Check the MK2 K/Base. Is the rear window watertight? The latest common cause is leaking windscreens.
For short journeys less than an hour run the a/Con on recirc, then you are only drying the air in the cabin rather than drying the air from outside.
If we ever get a dry windy day, if it's safe leave the top down or the windows open to help dry it out.
Hoggy.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

The rear window appears to be waterproof, no sign of dampness when pressing around from inside on the roof liner etc - parcel shelf dry, nothing seems out of place there. Front windscreen appears sound, no sign of water ingress in either footwell or such.

I don’t think it’s fuel sloshing around in the rear in the petrol tank, the sound only comes from the very rear passenger side which is why I thought it had something to do with my rear passenger light issues


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## C00P5TT5 (Jul 10, 2016)

Check your engine under tray, or whatever people call it...i ended up drilling a couple of holes in it when we had massive amounts of rain and the pilot drain holes blocked up.

I parked up and had loads of water below the car, thought it was a coolant leak....it was just water collecting in the undertray which once moving sloshed about


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ * Steviejones133 - *Common causes for water behind the Roadster passengers and drivers seat is a blocked drip tray and/or drain tube but it sounds like you've already checked them quite well.









How To: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Seat Rear Panel Removal


I think it took me more time to build up the courage to do this than it took me to actually pull this panel! [smiley=bigcry.gif] These instructions will show you how to remove the rear seat panel in a roadster to give you access to the rear speakers, catchment tray drain tubes and the fuel...




www.ttforum.co.uk












How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Roadster Drain Hose Access


This post will help you gain access to the two main roof drain hoses located directly under the convertible top main bearings. They are located on both the left and right sides, directly behind the seats and inside the center bulkhead that separates the cockpit from the trunk area. Connected to...




www.ttforum.co.uk





Possible areas to check -

1.) Check the two rear vents in the aft section of the quarter panels are not blocked. There's one on each side; one behind the Bose Amp and the other is behind the battery. You'll have to pull the trunk side panels to get to them, but they're easy enough to reach. Just press on the vent tabs to make sure they're not stuck.
2.) Remove your tail lights and check that the grommets are still good.
3.) You may want to pull the interior panels from behind the seats and make sure the drain tubes are properly seated in the metal work and just double check there's no water in the bulkhead area.
4.) Remove the styrofoam sub-floor panels and check for loose, leaking or missing bungs. Look for any water collecting around the battery or under openings under the bulkhead area.
5.) While the trunk side panels and styrofoam sub-floor panels are out of the way, try to look up under the antenna and see if any water is getting in from there.
6.) Check your spoiler drains and gasket and make sure they're not allowing water into the trunk/boot area.

*Rear vents -*









*Drain tube location - *








*Tail light grommet - *








*With the styrofoam sub-floor inserts removed, check all the bungs are present and use a flashlight (torch) to inspect inside these openings under the bulkhead area for any water -







*


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@ SJP, excellent points as usual. I had been looking at some of those, not all.

Tell me, is it considered normal to hear fuel sloshing around if the tank is approaching the filling warning? - could that be the sloshing noise I hear from the rear passenger side (uk)?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steviejones133 -* I suppose so, but I've never really noticed it TBO.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

When I have near a full tank and I brake and come to a halt I do hear petrol movement sometimes all depends on how quickly I’ve stopped.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ve been running the ac on recirculating and it hasn’t helped much, park the car up after a journey of maybe 5 miles and within half an hour, steamed up, rear window first and worst followed by passenger door window….Ive just been out to the car and opened the boot and there was a good film of physically wet condensation on the metal part of the underside of the boot lid……seems to me something is creating moisture in the boot area and at a fair rate.

Visibly, the battery side underneath is bone dry, haven’t had the polystyrene out yet as the weather has been awful, but as my rear passenger light cluster is badly condensed, I have a feeling that this is something to do with the cause of this - water getting in and getting heated up by the exhaust backbox which could be why the car fogs up after parked up after the exhaust has been hot. I eve noticed a musty smell from the boot area but everything up to now appears to be dry.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Check your spoiler bolts for rust as where mine was leaking the nut was rusty


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Steviejones133 said:


> I’ve been running the ac on recirculating and it hasn’t helped much, park the car up after a journey of maybe 5 miles and within half an hour, steamed up, rear window first and worst followed by passenger door window….Ive just been out to the car and opened the boot and there was a good film of physically wet condensation on the metal part of the underside of the boot lid……seems to me something is creating moisture in the boot area and at a fair rate.
> 
> Visibly, the battery side underneath is bone dry, haven’t had the polystyrene out yet as the weather has been awful, but as my rear passenger light cluster is badly condensed, I have a feeling that this is something to do with the cause of this - water getting in and getting heated up by the exhaust backbox which could be why the car fogs up after parked up after the exhaust has been hot. I eve noticed a musty smell from the boot area but everything up to now appears to be dry.


Hi, I can't add anymore other than as the ambient temp reaches its dewpoint & moisture is present condensation will form & it's surprising how much moisture is carried into car from clothes shoes etc.No moisture then very little condensation. The crystal dehumidifiers may help.
As don't use my TT or XR3 daily I do keep crystal dehumidifiers in them & no condensation is present.
Hoggy.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Maybe someone can tell me if this is normal. There is a plastic fixing as pictured below that to me seems like it could be a sign of ingress. Is this plastic part supposed to be sealed to the bodywork along the area marked out in green as mine isn’t. Also, the red arrow points to somewhere where water could trickle down from the waterways on the inner boot and ingress into the light cluster. See pics below.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You might try removing the tail light assembly and separating the two halves. Check that the seal is still good. It's possible someone opened it up to replace a bulb and pinched it which might explain why water is getting in-








Also check for this little rubber do-hickey which I bet most people are missing. Known as the "Stop Buffer Tail Light" or in German "Anschlagpuffer Schlussleuchte" there are two available options; P/N: 8J0 810 967 - Left & P/N: 8J0 810 968 - Right


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks Swiss, I’ll do my best to check. I’m kinda guessing at this point that I’m missing the doo-hickey in my passenger side, but I could be wrong. Only disassembly will tell for sure.

Thanks for all your helpful comments and all the best for the new year!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, so today I decided to strip out the boot/trunk to see if there was anything underneath that could be causing issues - I think I found where the water is collecting but I’m still not entirely sure of the source so maybe a more experienced owner could chime in.

Right at the back of the boot with all the guff removed are several cutouts in the body shell that are directly behind both seats. When I shine a torch in each one, I could clearly see evidence of water behind the passenger side but not the drivers side.

There is a black plastic moulding above the passenger (left on my uk TT) that I’m unsure if it’s the drip tray for the roof or something else, maybe to do with the retractable windshield??

Anywyay, I took a short video and some pics below. I think the previous owners must have used the boot for shifting rubble judging by the state of it but it’s all cleaned up now.
The red circles in the pic are the areas that I was peering into and I could clearly see water. My guess is that this water is getting heated up by the exhaust as I mentioned before, turning into vapour and presenting in the cabin with the rear window being affected the worst and most quickly when the car is parked up and locked after a trip.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The black housing on the left is for the hydraulic pump that operates the cylinders to raise/lower the roof.

Here's the bulkhead area behind the rear plastic panel. If you look inside you'll see the black object in the foreground is the cover for the fuel pump. Farther back, you can see the hydraulic pump housing. With the speaker removed (large round opening) you can easily check if the drain tube is properly seated.

If you have water in that area, you really should pull those panels and make sure the drain tubes are not loose and are properly connected.








How To: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Seat Rear Panel Removal


I think it took me more time to build up the courage to do this than it took me to actually pull this panel! [smiley=bigcry.gif] These instructions will show you how to remove the rear seat panel in a roadster to give you access to the rear speakers, catchment tray drain tubes and the fuel...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ahh, that makes sense now looking at it from the inside - what I thought was the bottom of the drip tray is the housing for the roof pumps and I can see now that the fuel pump cover sits the other side of where I was looking through from inside the boot.

Soundos like I’ve got another job on in the next few day in removing the passenger rear trim and speakers etc. Do I have to disconnect the battery or anything or just unclip the speaker connects and remove the panel itself?

It does sound more and more now like my drip tray drain pipe is either loose or perished - if it’s the latter, how easy it is to replace with a new one? - can it be done without removing the roof?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yes, the drain tube can be replaced without removing the roof but that may not be necessary. Here's another shot where you can see the drain tube going up from the bulkhead floor, and after it bends (not obvious in this view) it connects to the drip tray. While it's possible that the drain tube can become disconnected at the drip tray, most often it becomes dislodged at the bulkhead floor connection. But you won't know for sure until you have it open. With everything out of the way, you can have someone pour water into the drip tray and see where the lead is coming from.

Hopefully the tray is intact (not cracked or broken) as that has happened where someone left a bottle in the back which slid down the side and into the tray. When they opened the top, the frame crushed the bottle and cracked a large hole in the tray. If the tray(s) have to be replaced, then yes, it's a top-out job. Not fun!

And no, when removing the rear panel, you don't need to disconnect the battery. The trick in removing the panel is to look at the link I sent you, note where the clips are located and try to get your hand directly up, behind the panel as close to the clip as possible and then pull it away. This way you're pulling directly at the clip, and not next to it, with could crack the plastic.

The last image shows that same drain tube opening but with a sound deadening pad in place. All these other pictures are of my Roadster, which does not have this sound deadening pad, so I'm not sure which year Audi decided to add it. Just an FYI that you may or may not have it in yours.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

With the convertible top assembly removed, here's that broken bottle inside the drip tray. Notice the large hole punched through the tray on the left. The drain tube connects to the drip tray immediately to the right of the red bottle cap.

This is why you NEVER want to put anything small into the top stowage area. A coat or jacket might be okay...but a hand bag, water bottles, etc. No way! If it finds its way down into the drip tray and you open the top, then bad ($$$) things happen.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

One of the lesser known parts is this foam tube which is located inside the rubber drain tube. It's purpose it to dampen road noise. If someone has shoved something into the drain tube in an effort to clear it, it's possible it's jammed or blocked the tube. If that's the case, the drip tray will simply overflow.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks massively Swiss, I had seen that thread about the cracked bottle and was kinda hoping my drip drip wasn’t wrecked - I don’t think it is, when I cleaned both sides out a few months ago, they looked perfectly in tact from above and I was right down in there with my phone and a flashlight and no obvious sign of damage.

I saw one of your posts about sound deadening material around the bulkhead where the drain tube connects to the floor and you mentioned yours was missing - I don’t know if mine is yet but it might account for the musty smell I experience from time to time with the interior carpets seeming to be dry - perhaps the sound deadening is present in my car, has sopped up the water before it’s got inside the cabin accounting for the mustiness…..


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steviejones133* - Transfer complete!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks SJP!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

No worries.  When you get ready to pull that plastic panel, you want to give it a bit of a tug to get the fasteners to pop out. Try to give it a quick, short jerk, and it should come away easily enough. Study the pics to you get a good idea of where the clips are located and try to pull at the clip. A few nylon pry bars are helpful (check Amazon) and be sure to check that you have them all when you're ready to put it all back together as they often come out of the plastic and remain in the metal work. Good idea to give the inside of the bulkhead a wipe down or vacuum as you've notice it tends to get a bit gritty in there.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ll keep this thread updated with my progress and hopefully good news. Watch this space!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, so today I had a stab at removing the rear passenger panel to gain access to the drain hose - wasn’t too bad to be honest, first few clips I was a bit nervous about but soon got the hang, surprising how much force they need to pop them out. Anyway, panel removed in about 30mins and access achieved. All looked normal, passenger rear carpet under padding dry as a bone - see below clip






I didn’t unseat the drain hose from the bulkhead, it didn’t seem to be leaking and the tube felt quite squashable when I pressed on it. I decided to get a few jugs of water and pour them over the seal between the roof and the boot lid with the roof closed - just enough so that it didn’t overflow the rubber seal and watched as it disappeared.

Back inside the car, I checked for any visible signs of fresh water but could not see any - water was emptying onto the tarmac below the car in front of the rear wheel but not from a specific opening rather just fro an area underneath car underbody. Nothing coming from the drain hose connected to the bulkhead, managed to get my fingers up far enough to check the other end attached to the drip tray and couldn’t feel any wetness there either 🧐

I revisited the boot to check the areas I looked at yesterday and there was no immediate sign of water present - within a few minutes of pouring the few litres I just poured. Then I noticed a slow drip coming through and gathering into a small puddle as per the pic below - this was looking through the from the cutout in the body nearest the passenger side and viewed from inside the boot. Arrow shows where water is dripping from and green shows small puddle forming.










As I was exiting the boot, I noticed that water had started trickling out from what appeared to be below the passenger rear light cluster and was trickling down and across the floor of the boot toward the battery - car parked like below - passenger side slightly higher than drivers as on an incline and front higher than rear - See below pic (my two babies 😁) and clip















Ive left everything in a state of dismantlement as quite frankly I’d had enough. I felt sure that when starting the job, I’d find a displaced drain hose but now I’m still none the wiser as what the heck is going on and how this water is getting to where it’s getting!


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Geeze...an MG! My neighbor has one of those, what a nightmare to work on!

Anyway, back to the TT - close the boot, pour water around the spoiler and check for leaks. The spoiler drains and gasket are a known point of failure. The large, black plastic cover inside the boot deck comes off easily enough if you want to take it off and get a better look.








How To - Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Trunk Lid Panel Removal


This is useful for anyone who needs to access the spoiler unit, the emergency trunk release cable or is planning a reverse camera install. First remove the two screws in the grab handle, then remove the latch cover and then disengage all 8-clips. Start at the left lower corner and use the...




www.ttforum.co.uk




For those days you have to leave it outside, I would highly recommend a half cover. I picked this one up from Amazon for about 15-Euro. It does a great job of protecting the top from bird, cats and of course rain and debris that can get into the drip trays and front plenum drains.








FAQ - Mk2 Roadster Half-Cover Options


Another search on Amazon.co.uk found this one which is very similar to the first one on this post but costs only £69.95. https://www.ukcustomcovers.com/half-cov ... r-20062014




www.ttforum.co.uk


----------



## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yep, even less room to work on than the TT, but I lover her so she’s worth it. 21 years old and no leaks unlike the Audi.

Regarding the spoiler. Water was no where near it today - the water only started appearing as above after I poured a few jugs around the rubber seal between the boot and hood closest to the passenger side without letting it spill over the seal and flow down the boot channels.

I “think” the spoiler side of things might be okay, water drains out of the two rubber bungs near the number plate lights - it’s left water mark trails either side of the number plate.


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

"_...around the rubber seal between the boot and hood closest to the passenger side..._ "

Do I understand correctly....this is where you poured water? You might try it again, with the top closed (as shown) and the trunk open and watch the water to see if it's leaking anywhere the seal along this area.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That’s more or less spot on SJP. I had the boot open, roof closed and poured water ONLY where your green arrows are pointing and I didn’t let the water overflow that rubber seal between the boot lid/wing and roof - I kinda just let it seep away into the roof as it would normally do during rain.

After I did that - a few litres - I could see the majority of water under the car but then noticed the water in the boot.

Did you see that area that was dripping as I looked through bulkhead cutouts from inside the boot - one closest to the passenger door was where water was slowly dripping from, yet somehow the water I poured had made its way along the inside of the rear passenger wing and was dribbling out from underneath the passenger rear light cluster or so it seemed in my short video….


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Yeah, that's going to be a challenge to sort, but it looks like you're definitely on the right track. You pointed out there were "water spots" on the drain tube which is odd. I'm wondering if the drain tube might be partially blocked. Some water is is getting through the tube, but as it accumulates in the tray, overflows and splashing onto the tube, thus the water marks. Might be worth having someone pour water into that drip tray and running another video of what's going on inside the bulkhead.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Maybe...I'm just guessing here...water is overflowing the tray and making it's way in the direction of the blue arrow and then into the trunk this way? It may explain why water is coming into the trunk, but not into the bulkhead area where the drain tube connects to the bulkhead floor.
Unfortunately, this view is only possible to see with the top assembly completely removed..


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Well, I thought they looked like water marks compared to your pics. I had thought that the drain tube might be reaching a backup point and overflowing the drip tray. I did partially uncouple the drain hose where it connects to the floor, it looked like the foam things was there but I didn’t want to remove it any further as it seemed like it was only held in place by some sticky adhesive - no sign of a flange that would seal around the metalwork if it were pulled completely - you know, the kind of hose with a seat ring in it that would form a secure fix.

Seeing as how the water only seems to be getting in from where I poured it, in my mind it has to be maybe one of only a few things.

Slow draining trays due to partial blockage of drain hose as drip trays were cleaned out.
Failing seal between hood and body


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That last pic you posted reminded me of when I was cleaning out the drip trays in August. It looks like the same orientation as it would have been if I were looking down my passenger side tray - the two little yellow marks represent a kind of “plastic channel” moulded into the tray before it exits into the drain hose. The green arrow obviously indicates flow of water.

I spent hours hoovering out and washing through, hoovered out using a thin plastic tube attached to a normal vacuum nozzle with electrical tape - easier to vacuum with more flexibility and a narrower nozzle.

I recall looking into the “abyss” many times and could certainly not see any damage to the tray like the one with the crushed bottle, everything seemed normal.

Your hypothesis seems highly likely that water could be going in the direction of your blue arrow - towards the rear of the car - and maybe more so as my car is parked higher at the front than rear meaning overflow would go in that direction firstly, right?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

1.) You can remove the drain tube and inspect whether or not foam tube insert is degraded and is becoming a better blockage than noise suppressor. I don't think new tubes are that expensive if you need a new one. Or if it's okay, just reinstall it. Not saying it's going to be easy as you already know there's not much room in there.

2.) If the rear seal between the top and metal work has failed, that's going to take someone that knows convertible tops. Previously in this post, *TTsdsgomg* recommended these guys for the broken bottle repair. I have no idea if you're anywhere near them, but if you can determine where the leak is coming from, give them a call have a chat about a possible repair and see what they say -








Convertible Roof Repairs Kent | Soft Top Repair & Replacement


We offer convertible car roof repairs to customers in Kent, including Margate, Rochester and Dover. Soft top and mechanical hood repair experts.




caymanautos.co.uk


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks SJP. They’re miles away but I’ll exhaust all other options first. How simple is it to replace the drain hose or remove it completely and check for blockages and replace the original? - it seemed to be a swine to get near where the hose connects to the drip tray with any ease. Please see my previous post…..


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I haven't done it but *BillyP* has. He didn't post very much, but didn't comment that it was particularly difficult either. He did noted that these were quire flexible, so I would imagine it wasn't difficult to fit it onto the end of the drip tray. The drip tray is well secured into place, so it's not going anywhere when pressing the drain tube over the connection.








Drain Holes Roadster


I'm truly shocked by the sight of that. If it wasn't for the Audi sign on that speaker box I would have thought you're fooling us by posting a picture from a Lada of some sort. The spring inside the hose ensures dirt can collect. The thin plastic is designed to break as soon as you'd need to...




www.ttforum.co.uk





Looking straight down into the drip tray you can see the end of the drip tray connection for the drain tube. The drain tube is missing as it should be coming through the hole in the metal work.








Here's the new drain tube being installed. The work instruction doesn't call out for silicone sealant but here you can see it being used. You'll notice the white silicone sealant is inside the tube and on the edge of the foam tube too.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

So, is the crap pictured below present “inside“ the rubber drain hoses?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*Edit* - Correction, these are from an early Mk2 according to *JohnnyFarmer*. Clearly the bean-counters out voted the engineers on that crap design.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, day 3 and another day at it……think I finally cracked it!

Obviously no apparent source of where the leak was coming from inside the cabin and behind the passenger trim cover and drain hose, so today I thought I’d revisit the drip trays from above that I cleaned out just a few months back. I was thinking “this’ll be a fruitless exercise but might as well” as I couldn’t think of anything else.

Hood opened, drip trays visible, I decided to pour some hot soapy water down. The drip tray itself looked pretty damn clear of debris as I was expecting and also no signs of physical damage either - See below - trusted upside down iphone with flashlight on showed a clear tray and no apparent damage either. Puzzling 🤔












Next step was to pour hot soapy water down to see how it drained away. This is what I was met with






As you can see, hardly any drainage of the water. I had thought at this point I would pull the drain hose out completely. First, I disconnected it at the bulkhead side and peered inside - no sign of any blockage…….confused now. I decided I’d try and push a length of “something” down from the drip tray side, and I found this below in my garage - net curtain wire which I decided to try and use. Taped up the end going down to avoid any damage and set about it.










I did a few attempts, hard to get it to go where I wanted it near the exit on the drip tray, but got there in the end. See below






I was amazed to see what was blocking things up - must have been located right as the tube connects to the drip tray as the diameter seems to narrow as below










BLOODY SPIDERS!! - who’d have thought that something so insignificant could cause so much hassle!!. A female must have decided that a nice place to bring up a family would be smack bang where I’ve circled in red above. That sack, coupled with the usual bit of muck must have formed a “plug” right at that point.

The little “egg sack” was allowing a small amount of drainage through it but blocking the exit up sufficiently to cause overflow.

Anyway, cleared up the debris, secured the drain pipe to the floor and tested a good few times before and water was running away freely again.

What must have been happening is whenever it rained heavily or I washed the car, the drip tray would fill up and overflow causing water to appear where I had posted earlier. It’ll be a few days of monitoring before I reassemble but I was thinking I might just put a bit of silicone around the drain hose where it meets the floor to ensure it doesn’t pop off - the connection is certainly not a very secure one!

This is what was causing the grief - bloody spiders egg sack! - There was more bits of it that came out later, must have been much bigger than the broken up bit I pictured with a cigarette end to give scale - I smoked it soon after with a large glass of wine (the ciggy, not the egg sack 🤣) as it was well deserved!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Congratulations! You just won the "*Creepiest Things Ever Discovered in my Car" *award. Well done!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Hahaha, yeah - think I won that one easily! I’ll be keeping a regular check on our not so friendly eight legged friends activities from now on……..goes without saying that I checked the drivers side as well today for my little friends, none present and water draining as expected.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Seriously, that's quite a find and glad that you've sorted it.  I would never have imagined it, but yeah, just goes to show you what you can find if you look hard enough. Your perseverance definitely paid off and it turned out to not be such a difficult fix to what could be a very serious problem! Certainly one of the most interesting post in a while to be sure!

While you're in the mood for pulling things apart, you may want to give the plenum a go and check the two drains up front. Easy enough to do and well worth the effort.








How to: Plenum Access for Drain Inspection & Cleaning


These instructions are for a LHD Mk2 TT so there may be some subtle differences with a RHD vehicle. In addition to drain access, you'll need to remove the Plenum if you want to access the following: • HVAC Intake • ECU Module • Wiper Motor & Assembly • Front Shock Tower Bolts & Bearings •...




www.ttforum.co.uk




Just be glad you're not living in Australia!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ive already had my tiny hands under the plenum without pulling the wipers off - pulled up each corner and managed to poke a bit of plastic tubing down the holes and again ran hot soapy water through - they appear to be fine as of now. It’s kinda good having small hands and long fingers, kinda like Heineken - reaches the parts other hands can’t 😂


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Haha, yeah…..I don’t like snakes much, glad I didn’t have to pull one of them out my drain hose!!

On a side note, I couldn’t find any sign of that little sponge sound deadening thingy - maybe my 2007 wasn’t fitted with them or it’s gone missing at some point……one less thing to worry about blocking stuff up anyway I guess……


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just a thought here, but the cutout in the bodywork pictured below is obviously left open - is there any reasoning behind this? - does it aid airflow through the cabin or aid performance of the speaker? - I’m thinking that it’s just another way that any water vapour created by any water getting heated up behind it by the exhaust system is just another way that the cabin can steam/fog up?

I was thinking maybe about using some vapour barrier film (kinda like that film found behind the door cards) to close it off.

I mention this as whilst Ive had the rear panel left off, the passenger door window fogs up a hell of a lot quicker after a run. Granted, the area around my passenger rear drip tray had overflown and is still more than likely damp underneath, but with all of those “openings” exposed, Ive certainly noticed the fogging occurs much quicker on that side vs the drivers with its rear panel in situ.

What d’ya reckon?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The Roadster is designed to allow airflow through the vehicle and out the rear one-way vents just as the Coupe does. At speed, low pressure air develops behind the car, which draws air out of the car through the rear one-way vents.

Obviously this is a bit more complicated for the Roadster due to the bulkhead. The opening you circled serves two purposes; access to the fuel pumps and cabin venting. If you look closely at the trunk panels in the Roadster, you'll see these vent slits in each side panel and some others in the upper trunk panel. The holes in the metal work and upper trunk panel allow air to pass from the cabin,through the bulkhead, where it's then drawn through the vent slits in the trunk side panels and out the rear one-way vents.

Obviously when the top is open, this all unnecessary, but when the top is up, this is what helps reduce moisture in the vehicle and the windows from popping out when you shut the door. It's a good idea to make sure those rear-most black vents are opening properly. If you're concerned they may not be opening properly, give them a squirt with a spray of soapy water and make sure they're not stuck closed.

With all the panels out, you may want to put a small room heater behind the seat so it blows directly into the bulkhead area and let it run for a few hours to help evaporate any moisture that may have accumulated. Leave the trunk lid partially open so the hot moist air can escape. I would not leave it unattended.

*This illustration is from the Mk3 SSP. Basically the same concept as the Mk2 -*











*Cabin air is drawn through the openings next to the speakers - *








*Air passes through the bulkhead openings and upper trunk liner where it is then drawn into the side panel vent slots -*








*Low pressure air that forms behind the vehicle at speed, pulls the air out through these vents. There's one on each side.*


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Steviejones133 said:


> So, is the crap pictured below present “inside“ the rubber drain hoses?
> 
> View attachment 480220


These were my old ones - so Mk 2 but clearly not replaced as per service bulletin. 

Glad things worked out - another triumph of pig-headed stubbornness over German over-engineering congrats - well done. Nice looking roadster BTW.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

That makes sense SJP. Thanks again, I thought it might impede airflow with the design hence asking. Tell me (probably again) how to access those little black vents near the bumper, got a feeling mine must be stuck shut given the level of misting……

@JohnnyFarmer - thanks mate, from what I’ve read, petrol blue is a “marmite” colour, personally I love it.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just pull the side trunk panels. The vents are tucked under the tail lights, one on each side - yellow dashed arrow.
You may want to remove the black styrofoam blocks off the trunk floor first as it makes getting the trunk side panels off much easier. Green circle is a clip, red is the corresponding slot. And make sure you're not storing anything like jackets, scarfs, etc. on the top stowage area behind the seats.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks SJP, another job on the to do list


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Steviejones133* - You might do a little video on cleaning and testing them. It would be a nice addition given how handy you are with a video cam!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *Steviejones133* - You might do a little video on cleaning and testing them. It would be a nice addition given how handy you are with a video cam!


I most certainly will. One little job done today, precautionary really……..it might not look pretty but out of sight out of mind as they say. I will be checking the drivers side when I’ve got time, thankfully that drain was running free the other day - no spider obviously!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

@SwissJetPilot

Mate, I noticed the other day that there is some kind of electrical box next to my battery in the boot that unless disconnected, prevents removal of the other side of the polystyrene boot stuff - what is it and can I simply just remove the connector blocks from it to remove the other portion of the boot innards to get to the other black vent under the drivers (uk) tail light?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Quick tour of the trunk area -

1.) Misc. Tools
• Screwdriver handle (fits wheel bolts and tail light nut)
• Torx: 25x30
• Wrench/spanner: 10x13
• Screwdriver: slotted x phillips
• Wheel pin
• Wheel lug nut key
• Wheel lug nut cap puller
• Wheel center cap puller
• Wheel lug nut wrench
2.) XFM radio (North America). This area is empty in UK/Europe
3.) Jack
4.) Tire sealant
5.) Air Pump
5a.) *Emergency key (crank arm tool) for manually opening the roof. You should verify that it's present, and not damaged or broken.
6.) Tow eye which connects to either the front or rear of the vehicle.
7.) Road triangle
8.) Convertible Top Control Module (CTCM)

You don't need to disconnect the CTCM, just carefully move it out of the way as you remove the foam insert.It's a snug fit, but it will come out.

* See the link below for more information -
































FAQ - The Ultimate Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Roadster Compendium


Written specifically for anyone interested in the Audi TT Mk2 Roadster, this post covers the majority of issues, questions, and problems encountered with the soft top. There's also some trouble shooting topics and links to Audi publications and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). Section Index -...




www.ttforum.co.uk












Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Roadster Top Emergency Tool


Every Roadster owner should check their Emergency Tool also known as the Crank Arm Tool (CAT) to make sure it's not broken, damaged or missing from the tool kit. For anyone who discovers the little threaded insert from the CAT has broken off inside the spline shaft, you can buy a repair kit...




www.ttforum.co.uk









jack; tools; breakdown set with compressor Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2010 year Audi EUROPA 11010


jack<br/>tools<br/>breakdown set with compressor Audi TT/TTS Coupe/Roadster (ATT) 2010 year Audi EUROPA 11010 spare parts




audi.7zap.com


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Quick questions regarding removal of the side panels in the boot. Does the black plastic boot slam panel with the lock cut out need to be pulled? Also, does the (presume it is what was pictured above) Bose amplifier need to be removed to gain access to these little vents? - if so, how?

I don’t know if anyone knows at what speed these little vents become “active” - maybe mine aren’t doing much as a lot of my trips are never much above 30-40mph……


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Steviejones133 said:


> Quick questions regarding removal of the side panels in the boot. Does the black plastic boot slam panel with the lock cut out need to be pulled? Also, does the (presume it is what was pictured above) Bose amplifier need to be removed to gain access to these little vents? - if so, how?
> 
> I don’t know if anyone knows at what speed these little vents become “active” - maybe mine aren’t doing much as a lot of my trips are never much above 30-40mph……


to pull that trim off you need a swift/hard tug upwards


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

To remove black plastic panel just get your hands under the bottom of it and jerk it straight up. There are four clips on top (red) and two support studs lower down (green). Be sure to move the rubber seal off the edge first and be sure to re-seat it over the plastic when you reinstall it.

Try to reach past the Amp, the vent is not that far back there. If you have to remove it, the Amp is only held on my (I believe) three fasteners; two lower bolts and a nut on top. (Check the workshop manual)

No idea on the vent opening speed.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

FYI - Ignore the white nylon zip ties near the green arrows. I put those on mine as part of a D-ring cargo net set up. Roadsters don't come with D-rings or cargo nets, they're only available for Coupes. But mine does now.  








How to: Roadster Trunk Mat and Cargo Net Installation


For anyone looking for a good quality trunk mat for your Roadster, there's an over-sized one available from Amazon which can be cut to fit and works quite well. I currently have this one fitted in both my Roadster and my Tiguan. As you can see in the pictures, the mat is slightly wider and...




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks Swiss, I plan on trying to get round to this job ASAP. I will update in due course.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

While you have all the panels removed (and nothing better to do with your time) set up your camera to run a video on the vent and take it for a spin. You'll be the first member to ever figure out the vent open speed!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I’ll just put the missus in the boot with a torch and tell her to shout when it opens  I’m sure she’ll be up for it….not.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)




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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Okay, so set aside a few hours today to try and fiddle with these pesky little flaps located in the bumper under the rear light clusters. I’ve done my best to video, hard to do it on your own with only two hands but here’s my little “how to” guide, if you like.

1. First remove the foldable floor of the boot area. Fold it fully and wiggle it out, it needs a bit of forcing I found due to its size and shape.

2. Empty contents of polystyrene under trays that hold the jack, tools etc. I found that I could remove the passenger side easily enough by lifting up both trays where they join and they can be separated leaving the drivers side tray in situ with the roof module in place.

3. Remove black rear cross panel simply by lifting up swiftly with a bit of force - its held in place by four clips and locates in two pins at the bottom - no need to mess about with the spring loaded lock flap.



















Once you’ve got to that stage, it’s time to remove the side panels. Obviously I did the passenger side first as the drivers side polystyrene tray was in situ still.

4. I found that by grabbing hold of the side panel nearest the rear light cluster allowed for a tug which released the trim, I could then get my hands under the bottom edge, more gentle tugging working towards the rear and the panel was off.










5. Repeat step 4 for the drivers side with the light in it but prize out the light with a small flat bladed screwdriver to loosen the light from the trim. Once done unclip panel as per passenger side. Don’t push the light through the drivers side panel until it is free from the body because if you can’t remove it for whatever reason, you’d have a job on fishing it back out, best to push it through when the trim is disengaged. Each panel is held on with 6 spring clips. Check for damage and replace accordingly.










I found that I didn’t need to remove the soft top control module from the drivers side polystyrene tray, you can move it over enough to remove the side panel without disturbing the roof module.

Once you’ve got to that stage, it’s simply a case of peering in to see the rear vents - this is my passenger side vent after a bit of a clean up with soapy water.










You can see the majority of the vent, but some remains invisible. Still, that doesn’t matter much, you can still check the vent flaps are working as they should.

On initial visual inspection, my vents didn’t appear to be clogged or stuck, firstly I used a pencil to gently prod around the flap areas and they certainly did not appear stuck. I then thought about using a tin of compressed air to see how they would function with air flow vs
manual manipulation - appeared to work fine. I did give them a bit of a clean up with warm water & washing up liquid using a cotton bud taped to a pencil










A bit of muck, it nothing drastic. I let it dry and retested with compressed air and all appeared fine on both sides.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly obviously. When reinstalling, panels, ensure that the rubber boot seal sits over the edges of the rear cross member black panel and edges of side trim panels for waterproofing purposes.

Below are a few short videos I took during this process. I hope someone finds it helpful!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice write up! So now we're waiting for part 4 where your wife, locked safety in the boot, takes a video of the flaps to figure out at what speed the vents open. 
Please be sure to mute the screaming.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Hahaha, I think video 4 is gonna take some work!! 

I don’t know why she would object, she doesn’t mind me looking at her flaps every now and then, she should return the favour


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Actually, one thing I was wondering about was the purpose/presence of this little black tube which I I found was disconnected on the drivers side near the battery. It appears to go through the body on one end into the rear bumper, but mine was disconnected at the other end?? - dunno if I dislodged it but looking around the area, I couldn’t see where it would have connected to???

My initial thought was that it was something to do with airflow again, but then I had a thought that it maybe relates to cars with reverse park sensors - protective sheathing for the sensor wires which I don’t have, hence flapping around doing nothing?

Ideas?

Yellow showing exit into bumper area, green indicating the hollow tube and red showing the disconnected end.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Looks like the battery vent tube


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

+1 *Knight-tts* - My thoughts exactly. Item #19. Reference Workshop Manual: *Electrical System - RG 27 90 93 94 96 97 - A005TT01320*


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Knight-tts said:


> Looks like the battery vent tube


Exactly. When your battery is charging it will off-gas hydrogen. Normally this isn't a problem when the battery is located under your bonnet / hood. However, when your battery is located inside the main cabin bad things can happen if enough gas collects in an enclosed space and something provides a spark. 💀


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Ahhhh, thanks fellas. All now correctly connected!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just a quick dumb-ass question, I’ve got the Bose speaker option and I’ve obviously had the car to bits recently - no sign of a subwoofer anywhere? - the only panel I’ve not had off yet is the drivers side rear panel……is it behind there and is there some kind of bass box located there too as below?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Bose Subwoofer should be mounted in the left (maybe right for UK?) rear panel.
Your eBay listing shows the sub & enclosure.

The enclosure makes up part of a “Transmission line” (folded waveguide) design, enabling BOSE to get away with a relatively small speaker.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, but I’ve got a RHD car and have had the left passenger cover off - normal speaker no box. Presume then it’s behind my right sided drivers rear panel…..


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)




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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Mines a roadster not a coupe


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Looks like item 15 p/n 8J7035382 located right rear.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

*+1 FNChaos* -
@ *Steviejones338* - Have a read through *SSP391*.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Thanks fellas…..


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## Revs2777 (6 mo ago)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Unfortunately the only way to access the drain tube it is to remove the plastic panels behind the seats and get to it via the bulkhead between the cabin and trunk. Not fun, but not impossible either.
> 
> View attachment 480233
> 
> ...


Has anyone ever managed to do it without removing the plastic panels?


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Revs2777 said:


> Has anyone ever managed to do it without removing the plastic panels?


Unfortunately there is no access to the drain tubes from anywhere else other than by removing the rear panels behind the seats - you can’t even see them let alone get to them from the rear inside of the trunk because of the bulkhead. Sadly, it’s “panel off” time to get to them ……


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## Revs2777 (6 mo ago)

Steviejones133 said:


> Unfortunately there is no access to the drain tubes from anywhere else other than by removing the rear panels behind the seats - you can’t even see them let alone get to them from the rear inside of the trunk because of the bulkhead. Sadly, it’s “panel off” time to get to them ……


Uffff. I am getting ready to do it. 

Saw two other mkII TT Roadsters today parked in my area. Both had windscreens completely fogged up due to ingress..😡


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Revs2777 said:


> Uffff. I am getting ready to do it.
> 
> Saw two other mkII TT Roadsters today parked in my area. Both had windscreens completely fogged up due to ingress..😡


Might not necessarily be water ingress. This time of year, with rain and cold weather and people having the heater on, moisture brought into the car on clothes, shoes etc can soak into the mats/carpets and cause condensation build up. I’ve been through ALL the drain points on the roadster ensuring they’re good and I still get condensation if it’s been raining and I’m in and out of the car.

A few things you could try are:

Rubber floor mats

AC on full heat & recrirc. - dries out the car instead of bringing moisture loaded air into the cabin. A blast on cold AC 5mins before exiting the car can help as condensation forms with humid warm air settling on a cold surface AKA windows.

Portable dehumidifiers such as silica gel units behind the seats and in the boot. You can even make home made ones with cat litter and a pair of ladies tights believe it or not.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Last winter I spent a few months in Bavaria, where temps were well below freezing most of the time. The biggest problem I encountered after starting to drive off in the mornings was condensation from my own breath freezing on the inside of the windshield. Lesson learned - keep the defroster on full and both windows open a enough to prevent condensation from happening in the first place. In retrospect, maybe even wearing a KN95 mask or balaclava would have been helpful at least until the car warmed up a bit.

On the return trip home, I would open the windows and set the HVAC temp to cold with the blower on high for the last kilometer or so . This helps to get rid of the warm air inside the vents and any warm air inside the car - and with the small Roadster cabin, it doesn't take much. 

The trick is to get the temperature inside of the vehicle as close as possible to the temperature outside so condensation isn't possible once you roll up the windows and lock it up for the night. This tactic seemed to work pretty well.


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## Revs2777 (6 mo ago)

Wow, feel dizzy.. Had to do it today because the rain is not going to stop.

Removed panel.. some clips were missing, someone has been there before.. Removed weird sponge in drain - didn't see the point of it.. the bottom panel was dirty so I suppose it has housed water and indeed there was a small puddle right at the bottom of it. Put it all back. Did a water test and seems ok now.. I mean who knows..


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

According to Audi, the sponge tube bit is for reducing road noise.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

And this little sponge was the subject of a LOT of forum speculation and discussion a while back!
Jez


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## Revs2777 (6 mo ago)

Yes, I read last week it was sound related. Just seemed to me tonight a massive design flaw in an already complicated drainage system. Hopefully the carpets begin to dry if indeed it was the problem.

You guys think water pooling here (where it is dirty from the water) could have lead to my wet drivers side carpet?










Or is it more likely water was leaking from the actual drain down to the base plate and then to the rear speaker panel and carpet?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

The drip trays can be overwhelmed if there's a real downpour, and without anywhere for the water go to, it looks like that's a natural collection point. Any sloshing while driving would likely end up going forwards, towards the carpet with resulting dampness in the carpet and insulation pad.

One reason I use a half cover especially this time of year.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

When I had drip tray issues, that’s exactly where the “overflowing” water was going, except in my case, because the car was parked “nose up” it was going backwards toward the trunk. With the trunk stripped out, I could see it in roughly the same area but as seen from inside the trunk. It had seeped to the rear and was visible through the bulkhead apertures that can be seen with all the guff removed from the trunk.

I guess if you park your car “nose down” it will run forward and into the soundproofing under the carpet behind the seats.


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