# REMAP TT APX TO STAGE 3 BY MYSELF..SOMEONE WOULD HELP ME?



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi everybody!!
During the last 3 years i'd worked for tuning my TT APX for the goal of 400 cv.
Finally i've rebuild the engine with the right components for this target, i hope so  , and now i'm ready for remap my ECU.
I'm not expert to use ECU manager software so i thought to write this topic because i hope that someone would like to help me in this journey to the stage 3.
I've done a log using VCDS in 3th gear, a video of AFR wideband lambda (because i know the APX engine are narrowband) and finally i've exctrat the ORI file from my ECU using Kess V2.
I would like to remap my ORI using ECM Titanium software....so below i'll attached all of materials in my hands.

ENGINE SPECS:










LOG FILE:

View attachment LOG_ST0_20-09-20.xlsx


.ORI FILE:

View attachment Audi TT.zip


VIDEO OF AFR DURING LOG:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/efpt5avGQ52VcyqM8

There's the id text from Kess:

HW: 0261206797
SW: 1037354094
VIN: 
Ver.SW: 
Ricambio: 
Motore: 1.8L R4/5VT 
Ver.HW: 
SW agg.: 8L0906018M 0002

I truly hope that someone could help me!


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

have you gone to nefariousmotorsports yet?

the injectors have not been mapped, so you are too rich (in my opinion) 11.36 lamba at about 10psi? and normal running 13.5? you need to adjust the TVUB and KRKTE - these are mine for Bosch 550s 117s










also until these are correct your MPG / Distance Remaining Trip Computer will be inaccurate.

Incidentally, dont expect your Direnza exhaust manifold to last too long I think these are renowned to crack, same as Relentless. You will buy a Chinafold after a month or two - make sure you get the Chinafold v2 from AliExpress about £250. and you must port it I ported it but think it is stopping me get past 260g/s - so may need to re-port, I actually managed 264g/s in a log yesterday. so I am focused on timing now with WMI


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi Stuart!
you're talking about this? https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
So yes i'm too rich...actually i haven't set any value, thank you so much for yours! i'll download winOLS or ECM Titanium goes right?

Next to this adjustament what i've to do?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah the s4wiki is just a starting point - go to http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=2.0

they have some specific rules surrounding using me7logger rather than VCDS for logs and asking questions in the right way in the right place with the right overview

I only use tunerpro as it is free, remember any map changes needs to have the checksum updated, otherwise you will brick the ECU - it will start once then not again until bench flashed or left disconnected from power for _n_ hours/days/weeks?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Ok sounds great [smiley=book2.gif] ! i'll read on this forum and use tunerpro!


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Andre-77 said:


> &#8230;..Next to this adjustament what i've to do?


you read the s4wiki 

1. get the fuelling right - Lambda, Short Term Fuel Trims, Long Term Fuel Trims, Cold Start, Hot Start, BTS Enrichment, % Torque Based "LAMFA"

2. load

3. timing

if you try and cheat and go straight to load (which we all do) maybe= whizz-bang-pop-clatter-tow


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Andre-77 said:


> Ok sounds great [smiley=book2.gif] ! i'll read on this forum and use tunerpro!


well, I think WinOLS is better but it just costs money to buy.

For personal use tunerpro can include a checksum plug-in. I cannot remember where it is downloaded from - but I have used it for a few years now without any issues.

*just be careful with your AET-380 - you dont want to break your motor*- I have the AET-370 and have fitted a 35 PSI boost gauge last week which my current map still hit the pin at 35psi, and have you run your car in already? as you should only adjust the fuelling and run with the N75 disconnected for the first 3 oil changes. over 4 or 5 hundred miles. I think Badger5 can run in a car in a few hours using his new dyno.

There are some settings in the BAM map and maybe in yours where you set a fixed WGDC and then you can workout the boost pressure per 10% of WGDC at different revs
eg 0% = actuator pressure (so in my case 15psi) 10% = ?psi, 20% ?psi, 30% ?psi etc the item is something like "codeword 8"

Sadly I still have both springs in the actuator it is still 15psi which is too much - I need to remove the 5psi spring to make it 10psi so it is easier to control as 3% @4000rpm is the difference between 48% 32psi and 51% 35psi


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

yeah i've used the car around 2k kilometers because i've done some safe runs for testing the engine the clutch ecc...
so your advice are to disconnect the N75? but i haven't a boost manual controll..how i can engage the wastegate?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

only pull the electrical plug - then your should be able to do some logs and see what the actuator spring rate is.

it is just 94% WGDC which is in a stock map (on a heavier than 6psi Actuator) will be over 2 bar. the alternative is you can set this to limit the WGDC to a upper figure.

also the bottom tables show where you would enter 8 for the diagnosis codeword, and the fixed WGDC % per throttle position and RPM etc. (some people actually just use this rather than the complexities of Boost PID, Load Maps etc, especially with the instability of a heavy actuator spring rate)


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

ok! i've the 10 psi actuator, so if i've understand...if i'll leave this value to 94% the effect will be to have a boost more than 2 bar...if i don't want this i've to scale the value...right?


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## IanW (Jan 7, 2019)

Have a look at

http://www.ignitronecu.com/

Bit expensive but supposed to be simpler.

Mr Badger 5 is the distributor in the UK.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

I've looked for yes! But there's two problems:
A very expensive and second are sold out


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah they have been sold out since about march. But you are not in the UK are you Andre? So may be able to get a different supplier, i think Bill has been involved in this product as some of the wizard setup is clearly his preferred parts 630cc injectors etc.

Also is it plug and play for a narrow band?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

No I'm from Italy Stuart  ,
I've checked the availability in uk and in the EU but there isn't and second problem my TT are narrow and I'll have to convert it in wide and one


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Update:
Thank to Nefmoto forum i've decided to swap my o2 sensor from narrow to wideband.
I've bought the sensor, the resistor and i've done some reasearch for doing the right job :lol: 
At the same time i'm working on TunerPro for improve my ECU... [smiley=book2.gif]


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Excellent


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

the only think i don't know are if i've to swap my ECU into a wideband one :roll:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Look it up first.. needs loom, maf,

maybe coilpacks

Maybe egt
Maybe vvt
Maybe campos sensor and inlet cam end bit


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

that's the point, i just want to change my o2 from narrow to wide because seems too easy for tuning...i've searched a lot but still i don't understand if is necessary swap the ecu and add other sensor such as EGT VVT and soon or no [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

What does the resistor and link to ecu return in log files? And what XDF do you use in Tuner Pro?


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## A_Banging_Donk (Apr 22, 2017)

Andre-77 said:


> that's the point, i just want to change my o2 from narrow to wide because seems too easy for tuning...i've searched a lot but still i don't understand if is necessary swap the ecu and add other sensor such as EGT VVT and soon or no [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Swap ECU, swap O2 sensor, two new wires to ECU plug, one wire removed from ECU plug (from memory)

The rest is software changes

These wiring diagrams will help:
APX
BAM


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> What does the resistor and link to ecu return in log files?


Onestly i don't know  but i think that work like the other resistor i've placed in my engine such as N249, SAI pump and other, but i'm not sure!



> And what XDF do you use in Tuner Pro?


i'm using this one, have the same ID of my ECU:

View attachment 8L0906018M_0002.zip


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

A_Banging_Donk said:


> Andre-77 said:
> 
> 
> > that's the point, i just want to change my o2 from narrow to wide because seems too easy for tuning...i've searched a lot but still i don't understand if is necessary swap the ecu and add other sensor such as EGT VVT and soon or no [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> ...


Many thanks!! now it's clear how i've to do! :lol: ! 
i'm sorry to be so boring and noob i'm know :? but...ok i've a narrowband ECU and i know the problems relative the right fueling and the tuning issue to calibrate it, but i've an AFR with a wideband O2 sensor installed into the Downpipe, it doesn't log into the ECU unfortunately but i can read it. So my boring and noob question are, With my setup, and with the opportunity to read the AFR in wideband, are so impossible to optain the right fueling with my ECU? i think that i've to do many and many attempts but honestly for me aren't a problem


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Your afr gauge is just really to make sure you don't have a fault eg overboost issues or failing fuel pump etc. It's no use to control the fueling in the car.

Narrowband only tells you if you are above or below stoich between 14:1 and 15:1 then i think over 4000 rpm and load it ignores the o2 sensor and just sort of fuels default.

whereas your fuelling target on a loaded run will be 12.5:1 from about 3000 rpm

https://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20Tuni ... asics.html

I think tuners can tune turbo cars by fitting their own wideband sensors and knock sensors for the session. So clearly it is possible.

I think AMK / BAM ecu with immo defeated are about £150

You could at least try and get your injectors settings correct in your own map. Don't forget the checksum plug in, or the nefmoto checksum tool


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Thank you Stuart! now are clear! honestly i'm a bit scared to swap the ECU because i'm a mechanic but i'm not an Programmer or a Electrician so i'm really scared to done many dangerous mistake during the swap  .
First i'll set the correct steup for my injectors, as you kindly suggest me, and i'll try doing a log...in case that all of my tries gone bad i'll valuate to swap ECU or finding someone could help me to do this.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Sorry guys i've an issue ???

I'm looking for scaling my MAF (MLHFM) but i'd not swapped my maf because i'm still running with the OEM one (76mm inner bosch in my case)...the question are:
i've to rescale the table MLHFM ? (my MLOFS are 77) if yes wich are the right rescaling for me, (MLOFS-200 and then MLOFS+200 maybe be right?). Obviously i've scaled the injectors with the Stuart values....
here there's my tuned map, the log and the ECU file :lol:

View attachment 01_STAGE_3.zip


Thank you


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I personally have never changed the MAF to a different size, so not scaled it?

Why are you scaling a MAF without changing it? I doubt you need to change the MAF in any case the turbo and setup is likely between 350 and 380 - which is within the stock MAF about 280-300 g/s

is the usual MAF upgrade to an S4 MAF?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

thank you so much Stuart! you saved me from making a big mistake :roll: !!!!


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi everybody!,
i've an issue with my edited .bin on my TT225 APX, below i show you the issue and what i've done until today:

I've read and saved the original .bin frmo my ECU (with IMMO on) and i've edited it for running for a stage 3. Because i've a big turbo on i've done the 5120 hack (as suggested by S4 Wiki) and i've changed the MAP sensor, i've done sever other mod to the parameters always reading the S4 wiki advice.
So, when i've finished to write the new map i've done the Checksum controll, using your ME7sum software, once time with the GUI interface, other times with the CMD way. The Sum found 9 errors and fixed it.
I flashed my new map into my ECU using a KESS-V2 clone via OBD2 first and via Boot mode the other times but the results never changed....when i load my map and i tried to switch the engine on it doesn't work.
I've done sever scan with VCDS (i thought that maybe there was something error in my ECU or other, but surprise! the address 01 02 03 (the engine control module) doesn't respose, that's why my engine doesn't work.
So i've tried to reflash (in bootmode this time because via OBD Kess doesn't read the ECU) the original map and everything are ok, engine run and there'isnt any error.
I thought there was a IMMO problem so i've bought another ECU with IMMO off (that last ECU have loaded a stage 1 map) but the scenario are the same (Bootmode or OBD doesn't matter), but if i load the stage 1 map (gave me with this ECU) the engine run and there'isnt any error.
So, where i'm wrong?? i've changed some wrong parameters? i don't know [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] , so please someone could help me??.
Clearly i've tried to switch the maps (stage 1 and original one) through the ECU and everything works correctly.

Attached you'll find the edited .bin , the XDF that i've used for writing the map and the Checksum log.
The .bin NOCH are the map edited by tunerpro (without Checksum), the NOCH_sum.bin are the map checked and summed, are the map that i've flashed into my ECU.

View attachment STAGE 3__MAPS AND CHECKSUM.zip


Thanks guys!


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I haven't downloaded you map etc - but should be able to see what is different before and after.

what I will say about the way an incorrect checksum and how it behaves on AMK/BAM ECUs if the checksum is not calculated correctly. the engine will start once and then the ECU is bricked (as the checksum is only validated after the initial start-up - and either needs to be disconnected from the battery for a long period - I dont know how many hours because I just swapped in my spare ECU and looked back at the original one when I bought the stuff needed to bench flash the ECU.

you keep saying "boot mode" is this with NEFMOTO and is it the same as Bench Flashing? because I thought you needed to take ECU apart and bench flash when putting electricity onto a leg of a chip?

some to confirm is the following true?

1. Car is running fine before your change.
2. you flash your map changes and checksumed bin.
3. car turns over but doesn't start?
OR
3. car starts once but will not start?
OR
3. car doesn't even turn over?
4. you cannot write the stock map bin back onto the ECU unless you use "Boot Mode" as the ECU cannot be found (bricked)
5. with stock map back on the car starts and runs perfectly well?

what symptom are you seeing, for 3 above?

a word of caution - if you spend a lot of time reading and writing ECU Bins and trying to start - your battery will go flat - it uses a lot more electricity that you think.

can you try the following please?

1. Write your new bin file - do not try and start the car but then read it back into a different file and compare them (also what size are they (they should all be 1024KB) the bin files are always exactly the same file size)

2. have you written a new copy of your working stock map with just a minor change in and check-summed and does that work okay?

yeah what is you stock map like? are APX bins really 512kb?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi Stuart! thnak you so much for your appreciate (as usall) answer.
so...the bootmode as i refer too are always using Kess but in bootmode,means solder a resistance (10k ohm) on the second and the 10 th pin of the ecu and give power and read the ecu on bench (using another elettric source).




























now i respose to your questions quoting it:



> 1. Car is running fine before your change.
> 2. you flash your map changes and checksumed bin.
> 3. car turns over but doesn't start?


1. yes right
2. yes right (i've tried to run with a map flashed by OBD port or Bootmode but i've done the same result).
3.yes, ignition goes on, VCDS read every address except the engine ones

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> OR
> 3. car starts once but will not start?
> OR
> 3. car doesn't even turn over?
> ...


3/1. no, the car seems dead
3/2. no, the ignition goes on but if i try to swicth on the engine it doesn't work
4. i've done it and the bricked ECU reborn and works
5. yes right



> 1. Write your new bin file - do not try and start the car but then read it back into a different file and compare them (also what size are they (they should all be 1024KB) the bin files are always exactly the same file size)
> 
> 2. have you written a new copy of your working stock map with just a minor change in and check-summed and does that work okay?


1. yes have the same size 512kb
2. not yet but i want to do this! 



> yeah what is you stock map like? are APX bins really 512kb?


yeah really because my car are narrowband, below i post the original one.

View attachment Audi TT.zip


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I assume you used the v9 or one of Black A4 earlier APX bins?

Can you not read and write the "known good maps" with the ECU in the car through the normal port?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> I assume you used the v9 or one of Black A4 earlier APX bins?
> 
> Can you not read and write the "known good maps" with the ECU in the car through the normal port?


you're talking about the source bin or the XDF used for tuner my stage 3 bin? if you're talking about the source bin are from my original ECU, readed and saved by OBD port.
About reading and writing the "known good maps" it's possibile only if i've flashed befor the original or the stage 1 map but not the edited by myself.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

so what happens if you update your stock bin with just one single change and it is check summed? and written? it sounds like the file is being created badly and is bricking your ECU? maybe the behaviour is different on an APX regarding the checksum? as a BAM/AMK will start once and then just turn over and the bin is inaccessible

if you send your bin and XDF I will try and checksum it on my tunerpro to compare bin files


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> so what happens if you update your stock bin with just one single change and it is check summed? and written?


Not yet [smiley=bigcry.gif] i'll do it during the weekend!



> if you send your bin and XDF I will try and checksum it on my tunerpro to compare bin files


You're very gentle Stuart! below there's the checked and summed bin by myself using ME7sum.

View attachment STAGE 3 + XDF.zip


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I used the 8L XDF as those 5120 versions display a lot of nonsense - and at least the data looks about right.










all my test above does is prove that the tunerpro checksum plugin is creating the same bin file.

you are probably using some locations for tables from a 1024KB map using the incorrect XDF locations when adjusting the map sensor tables for 5120 hack and putting crazy parameters in the wrong place.

at the weekend try the basic change and write to the ECU make sure it starts read it back etc.

something simple in the LDRXN table eg the first item is 123 - change it to 100 and write that file, if the car is okay after you know that the bin and checksum are okay and you just wrote something wrong in the file.

This is what I mean you definitely cannot update an APX ECU with 5120 hacks for a BAM..


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Many many thanks Stuart! you solved the dubts i'd about the 5120 hack i've done.
I was pretty sure that something here was wrong....so stay update for future news  
now on Nefmoto i've found an APX 5120 hack bin, i'll test it during all other ones [smiley=book2.gif]


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah that's a good idea 

Do you have your unmolested bin.. when I was looking through some of the tables the lamfa table only had 100% requested torque enrichment, you might want to get a log as with mine i was only getting enrichment with my foot flat, if I was driving with my foot down any 70%. The actual torque was still 100% even though only 70% was requested.. or something similar so it meant at 3500 20psi i was still at 1 lambda. If you look at ignitron wizard it gives you quite a guide on populating the fueling.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Here there's my original LAMFA table:










If you take a look many values are 1.0, requesting Lamba and fueling to 1 V, but remember my car have a narrowband o2 sensor, so she runs many time in open loop, maybe here there's the answer to the 1.0 values.
Just for complete the scenario i've installed a stand alone AFR (wideband) controller and running with this stock table the real fueling aren't 1.0 when my throttle aren't foot flat.

Many thanks for suggest me the Ignitron wizard i'll looking for many advices here :mrgreen:


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

sorry I meant your stage3 bin which hadn't been updated with the incorrect 5120 hacks.

so this is my lamfa -










but after posting that of course yours is narrowband it might not behave the same way


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Unfortunately I've only the stage 3 map with the incorrect 5120 hack [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
I'll post you the new LAMFA table when I'll write the new correct one!
I wanna say you thanks again for your help! Really Stuart! Thank you!


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Finally there's a good news!
I've wirte a map without the 5120 hack and... it works!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: 
But now there's a new challenge, doing the 5120 hack, but i don't know how to do this on mine ECU [smiley=bomb.gif] .
Maybe installing a MBC in parallel with the N75 will be the right solution.
unfortunatly i can't done a log because was appen a failure of two clamps :x , now i've decided to replace every turbo clamps with this one:










and finally i've done an other improvement to mine ECU because i'm tired to weld and unweld a resistor for getting in boot mode 





































so finally, for getting the boot mode i've just to press a botton


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

thats a good solution for the boot mode so you can just reset it in the car.

what are you trying to achieve using the 5120 hack? just be able to log the boost pressure as you will be well over 23psi - why do you want to fit an MBC in parallel to limit the boost pressure? if you want to limit the boost pressure update the Boost PID to divert more air to the wastegate... ?

if you have your stock map PID setup on AET VT-262E with it's standard 1 bar actuator - you will be going up to and maybe over 40psi, an easy way to limit the boost is to set the max WGDC to 30% that will only go to about 22 psi. but it will not be very smooth at part throttle - so you will need to update the other PID maps, or set the codeword = 8 and simply configure the wastegate duty cycle manually by requested torque and rpm.

I fitted a 35psi boost gauge and I sometimes still go off the scale on that depending on the environment.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> what are you trying to achieve using the 5120 hack? just be able to log the boost pressure as you will be well over 23psi - why do you want to fit an MBC in parallel to limit the boost pressure? if you want to limit the boost pressure update the Boost PID to divert more air to the wastegate... ?


Beacuse reading the S4 wiki i've understand that: if your boost pressure run over the 2550 mbar (1.5 bar of boost) you'll go in open loop controll so it's better to stay in close loop mode, and for doing this you've to do the 5120.
So, because i've set the boost pressure up to 1.7 bar (2700 mbar of absolute pressure at this moment) i thoung that the 5120 hack will be necessary for my goal; and that's why i propose to use a MBC, because i'm not able at this moment to set rightly the hack....But if i've understand correctly what you're saying all of this work aren't necessary   so for me is the greatest news!!!!!
So, i've "only" to do what you're posted above? looking at we have the same wastegate i can copy all of your table?



> if you have your stock map PID setup on AET VT-262E with it's standard 1 bar actuator - you will be going up to and maybe over 40psi


actually i've the stock PID map, but i've the 10psi actuator on mine AET VT-262E, so if i've rigthly understand i'll going up to 40 psi (2.8 bar) if i don't scale it


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

10 psi is more manageable, I think the standard AET VT252-C and E actuator has 2 springs in I think a 10 and a 5 - I sadly through inexperience left my actuator alone instead of removing one of the springs.

how do you know you have set it to 1.7 bar ? based on the (load * 10) + 300 - I am not sure that counts without a standard actuator as the PID has not been aligned with the actuator an easy test is to just use an analogue boost gauge - to be fair you are a narrowband so are open loop in any case aren't you?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> how do you know you have set it to 1.7 bar ? based on the (load * 10) + 300


I'd set the pressure at 1.7 bar because time ago i wrote to Bill Brockbank asking him an help for mine tuning.
He's answer was:










so, looking his answer i set the boost (specially the LDRXN table for running at 1.7 bar as top pressure)....
But if all of this considerations was wrong please write it, and maybe help me to set properly the boost :? .

That's how i've done for properly writing the LDRXN table:
View attachment 01_LDRXN_BOOST_TT.xlsx




> test is to just use an analogue boost gauge - to be fair you are a narrowband so are open loop in any case aren't you?


yeah you're right, my engine runs always in open loop (talking about fuelling) and i've two gauge installed into my car, a boost pressure gauge and an AFR wideband one.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

So is your analogue boost gauge showing ~25 psi / 1.7bar ?

You've set your LDRXN to about 240% ? but all the other maps are maxed out between 185% and ~225% or have you updated those too.. if you look at s4wiki you will see the load calc uses the minimum from 3 maps, remapping using mainly ldrxn is only really useful for a simple stage 1 and potentially stage 2.

Yeah Bill's amazing maps are magical, he sets a car to a beautiful straight line at 25psi and 0.85 lambda and no knocking or timing intervention... if that is 330ftlb he makes sure it stays there until 7k. If someone else's car is 320ftlb with the same health and stability or 340 etc that's going to be there protected.. the fact you are blowing hoses off suggests you are maybe more than 25psi. And easy test is set it to 1.5bar then you should at least see a boost line before 5120 hack.. do you still have the 4bar map sensor?


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> So is your analogue boost gauge showing ~25 psi / 1.7bar ?


not yet because the hoses blow off around 14,5 psi - 1bar because the clamp i've clamped on my hoses are shitty and cheap  when you mont and unmont them they really don't clamp enought.... :?



> You've set your LDRXN to about 240% ? but all the other maps are maxed out between 185% and ~225% or have you updated those too.. if you look at s4wiki you will see the load calc uses the minimum from 3 maps, remapping using mainly ldrxn is only really useful for a simple stage 1 and potentially stage 2.


i set LDRXN "according" to the original boost curve as show belove (you can look it opening the xls file posted above):










always according with the new LDRXN values i've set LDRXNZK scaled of 8%, but i didn't change any wastegate values as you suggest 



> do you still have the 4bar map sensor?


no i don't, for getting the first (failed unfortunatly) log i'd mounted the OEM 2550mbar one.



> you will see the load calc uses the minimum from 3 maps












you're talking about this S4's part? so basically i've to correct the ratio because i've a 10psi actuator ( 0.70 bar) again the stock 6,5 psi (0,45 bar)? so, if i'm right the new ratio that i've to multiply the axis of vpssplg is 1,55.

Another note, i've modified the LAMFA table as you suggested to do (using the ignitron wizard) and looking my AFR gauge, for the few km and test i've done, it's working well


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

If you work out a good way of adjusting stock PID to a suitable PID for a different actuator spring rate - please share I have made my changes by hand after logging loads of times. there are some tools to help from nefmoto

these is the section I was talking about.










Have you updated this table - otherwise you wont reach 246% from LDRXN as it will be limited to KFMIRL (you will need to increase the desired load - also your load is going past the 191 axis of KFMIOP










so many of these tables have to reflect the others. it feels like a bit of a mess - and that is excluding any load intervention from temperature and other maximum settings in KFLDHBN


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

That's the log i've done performing the last version of my map:


```
Edit Log for 02_Audi TT.bin created by TunerPro.
**************************************************************************
11/21/2020 23:44:31  Scalar:    KRKTE changed from 0.08319  (0x27) to 0.06186  (0x1D).
11/21/2020 23:44:43  Scalar:    KRKTE changed from 0.06186  (0x1D) to 0.06186  (0x1D).
11/21/2020 23:45:06  Scalar:    TEMIN (Minimum injector opening time ) changed from 0.75 ms (0x00EA) to 0.75 ms (0x00EA).
11/21/2020 23:45:48  Table:     TVUB changed.
11/22/2020 00:13:02  Table:     LAMFA changed.
11/22/2020 00:14:08  Scalar:    TLAFA (Vezögerungszeit bis Lambda Fahrerwunsch aktiv) changed from 0.10 s (0x01) to 0.00 s (0x00).
11/22/2020 00:23:32  Table:     LDRXN (Maximum specified load) changed.
11/22/2020 00:24:25  Table:     LDRXNZK (Maximum specified load during continuous knock) changed.
11/22/2020 00:28:03  Table:     KFLDHBN (LDR altitude limitation (maximum pressure ratio) changed.
11/22/2020 00:29:16  Table:     LDIATA  Korrektur I-Begrenzung LDR PID Rgler als Funktion von Tans changed.
11/22/2020 00:37:30  Scalar:    DSLOFS changed from -1275.02  (0x8080) to 0.00  (0x0000).
```
the first fueling values was changed using the values that you gave me (thank you again  ). About the LAMFA table i've changed the table as showed belove:










i used as source the ignitron wizard as you suggested.

So, talking about boost:

the LDRXN table was changed, settings the max boost pressure to 1.7 bar (as suggested by Bill), as showed belove:










but i haven't changed only this value, i've changed even the KFLDHBN using as source the flowgraph of my AET turbo:










the flowgraph of the turbo:










i've changed the LDIATA table, using as suorce the S4 wiki like this:










i've set DSLOFS to 0 because S4 suggest to do this for using PID in close loop.

that's all, as you can see i'm not changed any wastegate value, and that, i learned now, are a mistake 

here there's the checksummed, and flashed, bin:

View attachment 02_Audi TT_CH.zip




> Have you updated this table - otherwise you wont reach 246% from LDRXN as it will be limited to KFMIRL (you will need to increase the desired load - also your load is going past the 191 axis of KFMIOP


no, i didn't change any values of KFMIRL and KFMIOP [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Stuart, i'm reading again the S4 wiki (and fortunatly i'm improving my knowledge :lol: ) and i've a question to ask you :wink: .
Talking about Fueling i read about the LAMFAWKR value, specially the CWLAMFAW one. My question are, have you changed any values of the equation that generate the CWLAMFAW value, or the LAMFA and other corrections are enought?
If you'd changed the CWLAMFAW value have you set the bit 0 or 1 ?

thank you so much!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

when you say your boost hoses popoff at 1 bar where are they popping off from? I ask because when I first fitted my FMIC on my S3 the hardpipes I had were not swaged <-- think thats the right word - and they were constantly blowing off

I am still only a beginner in the mapping malarkey but these are the maps I think I changed surrounding fuelling


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> hen you say your boost hoses popoff at 1 bar where are they popping off from?


the hose popped off was the BD and the one that link the output of the Turbo at the hard pipe link placed on the top of the engine. This failure are caused not by boost (not directly) but the cause was in the poor quality of the clamps, in particulary the clamps i've used are great if you clamp the hose and you'll never (or less) re-open it.
The failured clamps was clamps that i've mounted and re-mounted many times...and that's cause the problem because the screw system doesn't clamp well as the first time.
The same issue appened at engine rebuild, in that case was the BD clamp to fail. However using silicon hoses amplificate this problem because the internal side of this pipe are slippery.
So after the second fail for the same problem i've decide to replace the clamps that i've to mount and re-mount with more frequency.



> I am still only a beginner in the mapping malarkey but these are the maps I think I changed surrounding fuelling
> 
> fuelmaps.png


i would like to be a beginner as you :lol: :lol: :lol: !! many many thanks for the Fueling screen!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

oh right... you are talking about the turbo to charge pipe red hose - the fear is that once you have resolved that hose, the next one will go, and work all the way round to the inlet, it just gets annoying when it is the pipes behinds the lights.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Fortunately the other hoses are locked because I've mounted it only once time.
Moreover are fitted in a very close space so it's impossible that they blow off :lol:


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Why has your lamfa got an axis with 2 rows of 100% requested torque %


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> Why has your lamfa got an axis with 2 rows of 100% requested torque %


You're right, I've noticed that but I don't know why there's 2 100%! I've to change the axis I think so!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah weird that.. they are supposed to be 0,50...100 and you are 50..100,100 i don't know where the axis are for lamfa y. It doesn't feel like something you would ever need to change? Desired Torque is always between 0 and 100% and you don't need to alter the fueling between 6800 and 7200 (if you have upped it?)


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> Yeah weird that.. they are supposed to be 0,50...100 and you are 50..100,100 i don't know where the axis are for lamfa y. It doesn't feel like something you would ever need to change? Desired Torque is always between 0 and 100% and you don't need to alter the fueling between 6800 and 7200 (if you have upped it?)


 I don't know too  , I've changed the table assuming that the axis are progressive as it have to be, so I'd started to 50 up to 120 and I've correct the table according with the ignitron wizard.
Actually I didn't changed any torque values (another mistake) but your opinion are to keep inalterate the 6800 / 7200 lines?


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Finally I've found the the LAMFA columns and rows axis and I've correct the columns in accord with the ignitron wizard, 40/60/80/100/120/140 %


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

The ignitron wizard isn't a like for like with me7.5.. the standard LAMFAW y-axis is '% of torque requested' that is only between 0-100 and is derived by pedal position kfped. There are lots of tables you can sort of clone like load based tables for timing or similar.

You really need to start to get some proper logs from me7logger.. rather than creating an entire 'dream map' without testing in-between your changes. Street Tuning requires shed loads of runs and minor changes.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

I'm agree with you Stuart, I hope to performe the real first log this weekend! Waiting them I'll try to write many right parameters I can into the map


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

My only concern is the health of your engine.

My advice is whilst logging your car you start with a limiting the wgdc and work that up logging in between to make sure it's not going bananas.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> My only concern is the health of your engine.


mine too!!!! that's why i'm so boring about every parameters :lol: i really want to understant it befor change the values and doing an armageddon on my engine [smiley=bigcry.gif] .



> My advice is whilst logging your car you start with a limiting the wgdc and work that up logging in between to make sure it's not going bananas.


reading once the S4 i've understant this fondamental point! and finally i've understand one of your first post about this topic:



> just be careful with your AET-380 - you dont want to break your motor- I have the AET-370 and have fitted a 35 PSI boost gauge last week which my current map still hit the pin at 35psi, and have you run your car in already? as you should only adjust the fuelling and run with the N75 disconnected for the first 3 oil changes. over 4 or 5 hundred miles. I think Badger5 can run in a car in a few hours using his new dyno.
> 
> There are some settings in the BAM map and maybe in yours where you set a fixed WGDC and then you can workout the boost pressure per 10% of WGDC at different revs
> eg 0% = actuator pressure (so in my case 15psi) 10% = ?psi, 20% ?psi, 30% ?psi etc the item is something like "codeword 8"
> ...


yesterday i've done a rev of fueling because the car knock and goes a bit limp (16/17:1) during the warmup, now i've to work on boost and specially on the WGDC as you suggested, because i've to improve the new actuator spring value (10psi) and the how much WGDC in % i would like to use.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Yesterday I was working on boost and, thanks to it, I think that I've found a big problem in my tuning  
Especially when I opened the TVLDMX value.
With the xdf that I'm using to perform the map the value are this one:










Looking this value I'd decided to add a new xdf parameter of TVLDMX using the Stuart's screenshot posted above, and that's are the result:










At this point I'm pretty sure that somethings are wrong.... [smiley=bigcry.gif] because in other tables and scalar values I've found some difference between how S4 say and mine bin...
About you are only a XDF problem or there's something else?


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

yeah, I did see that 327.5

?

this is the settings for the BAM TVLDMX - but I dont know the location on your APX BIN


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

thank you Stuart!, as usal!  but i've too much problems with this XDF....i've to find something better or maybe make one by myself because at this point i'm sure to input wrong converted values [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Finally i'm back!
i've spent much time during the last weeks to perform a right and rich of values XDF and now i would share it with you, i think that will be useful for someone like me have an APX engine with the 8L0906018M_0002 ECU.
After that i've re-started again with tuning my ECU making a new .bin based on the original one.
That's how i've done until now:


```
Edit Log for 04_Audi TT.bin created by TunerPro.
**************************************************************************
12/11/2020 22:42:43  Scalar:    KRKTE changed from 0.74880 ms/% (0xEA) to 0.06080 ms/% (0x13).
12/11/2020 22:43:03  Scalar:    KRKTE changed from 0.06080 ms/% (0x13) to 0.06080 ms/% (0x13).
12/11/2020 22:43:09  Scalar:    KRKTE changed from 0.06080 ms/% (0x13) to 0.06080 ms/% (0x13).
12/11/2020 22:45:32  Table:     Axis: TVUB Voltage changed.
12/11/2020 22:55:53  Table:     TVUB changed.
12/11/2020 22:56:19  Table:     TVUB changed.
12/11/2020 22:56:33  Table:     TVUB changed.
12/11/2020 22:58:05  Scalar:    TEMIN changed from 0.0224 ms (0x0007) to 0.7488 ms (0x00EA).
12/11/2020 22:58:11  Scalar:    TEMIN changed from 0.7488 ms (0x00EA) to 0.7488 ms (0x00EA).
12/11/2020 23:01:47  Scalar:    TEMIN changed from 0.7488 ms (0x00EA) to 0.0224 ms (0x0007).
12/11/2020 23:03:05  Scalar:    TEMIN changed from 0.0608 ms (0x0013) to 0.7488 ms (0x00EA).
12/11/2020 23:16:24  Table:     NLLM changed.
12/11/2020 23:20:29  Table:     NFSM changed.
12/11/2020 23:33:48  Table:     KFFWL changed.
12/11/2020 23:34:19  Table:     KFFWL changed.
12/11/2020 23:40:57  Table:     LAMFA axis changed.
12/11/2020 23:41:16  Table:     LAMFA axis changed.
12/11/2020 23:41:26  Table:     LAMFA axis changed.
12/11/2020 23:41:38  Table:     LAMFA axis changed.
12/11/2020 23:46:29  Table:     LAMFA changed.
12/11/2020 23:47:45  Scalar:    TLAFA changed from 0.100 sec (0x01) to 0.000 sec (0x00).
12/12/2020 12:33:56  Table:     LDRXN changed.
12/12/2020 12:34:21  Table:     LDRXNZK changed.
12/12/2020 12:37:02  Table:     KFLDHBN changed.
12/12/2020 13:25:22  Table:     KFVPDKSD Axis changed.
12/14/2020 23:17:46  Table:     KFTARX changed.
12/15/2020 00:09:08  Table:     KFLDIMX hPa Axis changed.
12/15/2020 23:10:09  Scalar:    CWMDAPP changed from 1.00  (0x01) to 8.00  (0x08).
12/15/2020 23:19:06  Scalar:    TVLDMX changed from 95.0000 % (0x4A38) to 30.0000 % (0x1770).
```
Now i'm looking for tuning KFMIOP / KFMIRL / KFMIZUFIL / KFMIZUOF, i've understand that i've to correct the tables according to my new LDRXN values, and so, the new boost request, but onestly i didn't understand how i can perform it [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Please someone could help, explaing how can i do? thank you very much!

Here you can find my map and the XDF 

XDF:
View attachment 15_8L0906018M_0002.zip


BIN:
View attachment 04_Audi TT.zip


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

you need to read up on nefmoto - they are interleaved and are reflections of each other and the axis all need to be adjusted - but I still haven't seen an me7logger log yet only your tunerpro audit log. you probably dont need to go to 250% charge fill as your actuator will reduce the load request specified to actual.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

yeah i'm reading and trying to understand what are write on Nefmoto... Unfortunately i haven't performed a me7 log yet [smiley=bigcry.gif] and i hope to make one during this weekend!


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi everybody!
New update! i've finally perfomed two logs using two different maps , for his boost approac.
The first one, the 04, attached below, are setted by Stuart's precious advices, so the WDGC are limited by the TVLDMX value to 30%, here there's the log:

View attachment 20-12_TT_04.csv


The second one, suggest by a Nefmoto's user, use a different boost and WGDC controll, he suggested me to set TVLDMX to 95% and limit the WGDC only upgrading the last row of KFMIRL to 250 and the last row of KFMIOP to 92%.
I've done the advices but without changing the KFMIOP axis (possible error).
Here there's the log:

View attachment 20-12_TT_05.csv


And below there's the VCDS log because during the log, as you can see by the .CSV, the ECU limited the boost and gave me the P1555 error (overboost condition).


```
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.3 (x64)
Data version: 20140905

Sunday,20,December,2020,12:45:15:05031

Chassis Type: XX (8N - Audi TT (1999 > 2007))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

VIN: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX   Mileage: 237770km/147743miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-032-APX.clb
   Part No: 8L0 906 018 M
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT         0002  
   Coding: 05710
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 397EB5CB234A35D69C3-5072

4 Faults Found:
16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 
            P0103 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
17743 - Engine Torque Monitor 2 
            P1335 - 35-10 - Control Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 
            P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
17963 - Charge Pressure 
            P1555 - 35-10 - Maximum Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.lbl
   Part No: 8N0 907 379 E
   Component: ESP     20    CAN  V004   
   Coding: 18446
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: 3E74A6D73A6412EEA91-4A9C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8N0 820 043 A
   Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03  
   Coding: 00040
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: 2858608FC8E0BC5EF3D-2566

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8N8-909-601.lbl
   Part No: 8N8 909 601 
   Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1005  
   Coding: 10102
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: F7FAF3F3D5DE63A62A7-50E6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl
   Part No: 8N1 920 880 H
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D55  
   Coding: 05144
   Shop #: WSC 30186  
   VCID: 3A7CAAC7264C3ECE959-4A3A
   XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX     AUZ5Z0C2275116

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 22: AWD        Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
   Part No: 02D 900 554 B
   Component: HALDEX LSC  ECC     0006  
   VCID: 1F4A7B539DAE7BE6827-4A3A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks        Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl
   Part No: 8N8 962 267 
   Component: Zentralverrieg.,DWA D04  
   Coding: 04682
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: FEF4E6D7FAE452EE691-4DD6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor        Labels: 8E0-951-177.lbl
   Part No: 8N8 951 177 
   Component: Innenraumueberw.    D09  
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: FCF0ECDFECF840FE475-50E6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range        Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 907 357 
   Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER  D004  
   Coding: 00010
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: E5C6A9BB7F72E13688B-50E6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 035 186 D
   Component:  Radio              D05  
   Coding: 00517
   Shop #: WSC 01236  
   VCID: 214E7DABABDA4D16B43-4A9C

No fault code found.

End   ---------------------------------------------------------------------
```
The impressions after this two initial tests are that the fueling are too much rich (around 10:1 AFR during WOT), so i've to reduce the amount of fuel. Talking about boost i'm a bit confused wich are the right way to follow because the "Stuart's" maps are less powerfull but more linear, there'isnt error into the ECU and the boost runs up to 1.3 bar at top.
The "Nefmoto" one are too more aggressive and the boost runs up very fast but there's a overboost condition (I expected that).
So, if anyone wuold evaluate this logs and give his opinions about it will be very appreciate :lol:

View attachment maps.zip


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

I analyzed my logs and I'm sure that the 04, the most useful, are corrupted...talking about the 05 are a disaster...the Nefmoto advices was really crap....so I need to perform another 04's log and when I'll done it I'll post it [smiley=gossip.gif]


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Arhh yes your 04 log needs analysing its just for double quotes mucked up, I did half an answer yesterday but then laptop ran out of battery and I forgot to finish.

Let me have another look tomorrow, but you are right your 30% wgdc was not going wild... and I recall a drop off in boost, maybe in line with your overboost limp mode.

I will try and remember...


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Thank you very much Stuart for spending your time for me! You're very gentle!

Now I would like to re-test the 04 map but I would try another approach, I'll call it 06, setting TVLDMX to 95% and linearize KFLDIMX and KFLDRL.
At this point I don't touch the fuel yet because I prefer run rich and safe until my boost curve will be right


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

04 has had it's double quotes sorted. (the 30% max WGDC) and some stuff removed it reached 222g/s but still not able to run in ecuplot something is probably wrong with the header still

View attachment 20-12_TT_04.csv


05 cuts the power at about 4500, as the desired boost is really low but it is maxed on the sensor.

I suggest you try another log but it is going into limp mode @95% WGDC because the PID is not right for the actuator

can you do a log with the N75 disconnected then you can see if you are 15psi or 10psi actuator.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> 04 has had it's double quotes sorted. (the 30% max WGDC) and some stuff removed it reached 222g/s but still not able to run in ecuplot something is probably wrong with the header still


Yeah right it's impossible to read it in Ecuxplot, maybe I've done some mistake during logging....I think that I reached 222 g/s because I've upgrade KFMIOP, and his axis, and the KFMIRL table according to KFLDRL one.
The 30% WGDC limited all values, it's right, so I'll try as you suggest to perform another log using the same table but with the N75 valve unplugged. 8)

The 05 are really crap, I forgot it because it was like using the car with this setup and the stock map....simply a disaster as you know.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi everybody! i'm back!  
During this lockdowned xmas break [smiley=bigcry.gif] i worked on the map and yesterday i'd finally perfomed some several logs, here i'll attached the best one:

View attachment LOG 61.csv


IMO there's still a lot of work to do, but it's a good starting point :lol: .
I'd setted TVLDMX to 95% and i'd worked on the Wastegate dutycycle using the table KFLDRL and linearizing KFLDIMX.
The result are good but, first, the peak boost are nearly to 1.6 bar and not 1.7 as i setted and second the spooling are too much slow because the peak arrive around 4000 rpm and the pressure ratio are only 2.5 and not 2.8 as i setted.



















Always talking about boost the desidered doesn't mach the actual, i think that's something wrong (maybe too much WGDC? )



















Talking about fueling the engine still running too much rich but i'm working on this point settings FKKVS and, in the future logs, increasing the last row in the LAMFA table from 0.95 to 0.97 or much, i'll try.



















Finally talking about torque, specially KFMIOP and KFMIRL effects here there's the log:










Seems good but i'm not sure.

In conclusion i've to improve the spooling for faster boosting, i've to leaning the fueling and working on the WGDC.
That's my opinion  i'll really appreciate every comments and suggestions about it!

Thank you guys 

View attachment MAP06.zip


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

FKKVS wont sort out your mixture they are fine tuning

you will need to adjust the PID to reduce the WGDC (did you do a run without the N75 plugged in to discover the Actuator pressure 10psi / 15psi?)


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> KKVS wont sort out your mixture they are fine tuning


ok! thanks for your suggest Stuart! so what's your advice for tuning fueling? it's right working on the LAMFA table?



> you will need to adjust the PID to reduce the WGDC (did you do a run without the N75 plugged in to discover the Actuator pressure 10psi / 15psi?)


Yeah i'll do it!, yes i've done the test and the actuator pressure are 10 PSI


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Stuart, please, I've to ask you a pleasure. Can you share me a log of your chipped car? I would like to analyze a log of a rightly tuned car for understanding better where I've to work for improving mine 

Thanks a lot!


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I wouldn't say mine is properly tuned, but I'll upload one from before my clutch went.. 
Lamfa is used to control the mixture, but I cannot comment of narrowband settings as the wideband o2 sensor is used to correct to meet lamfa.. unless there is intervention.


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> I wouldn't say mine is properly tuned, but I'll upload one from before my clutch went..
> Lamfa is used to control the mixture, but I cannot comment of narrowband settings as the wideband o2 sensor is used to correct to meet lamfa.. unless there is intervention.


Sure are better tuner then mine  I'll use it for analyze a rigthly log and understanding what I've to aspect from my tune.
I'm 
Im displease for your clucth [smiley=bigcry.gif] I hope it went only for normal usure!
About the mixture I'll do some test changing the voltage and I'll share the result :wink:


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Have you tested your short term fueling and long term fueling with vcds or vcp

Where did your injector voltages from? Also the krkte ?

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/i ... pic=2625.0


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> Have you tested your short term fueling and long term fueling with vcds or vcp


No i didn't.



> Where did your injector voltages from? Also the krkte ?


i used the values that you gentle gave me times ago, and it works because during normal driving the AFR are always stechio or a bit lean and it's are perfect! i think that i've only to work on the sensor voltage in LAMFA for getting the best power condition during WOT.



> http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/i ... pic=2625.0


Yes i'd checked the values you gave me using that equations :lol:


----------



## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

this was like in the middle of my experiments with WMI - I struggled to get much than about 310bhp, without getting ignition retard, but this setup is maxed out at about 260g/s (not intake based) and as soon as it gets near that boost just goes mental, as cannot get rid of anymore air

clutch was stock, it was bound to start slipping I think it was changed in 2010, the car is still perfectly drivable but little point if I cannot floor it  

View attachment AET_RR_WMI29c.csv


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Thank you very very much!! I'll analyze it 



StuartDB said:


> clutch was stock, it was bound to start slipping I think it was changed in 2010, the car is still perfectly drivable but little point if I cannot floor it  ]


10 years with the stock clutch and more than 310cv was a great life for a stock one


----------



## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> this was like in the middle of my experiments with WMI - I struggled to get much than about 310bhp, without getting ignition retard, but this setup is maxed out at about 260g/s (not intake based) and as soon as it gets near that boost just goes mental, as cannot get rid of anymore air]


The problem had you notice to getting more boost are related to the hardware setup or comes from ECU limits? I suppose that working on timing wasn't enough for resolve your ignition problems...


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I could reduce timing but then you lose power.

My limit is physical, either badly built, maybe insufficient porting in the Chinafold?

It just hits a wall, whatever way its approached..


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

You have quite a bit of ignition retard from knock in your log 61










So this is from my log...


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Very interesting! thank you Stuart for your analisis!
Maybe setting rightly load and boost i'll erase that ritard, i hope it! :roll: what's your opinion about it?
At the moment i haven't touched the timing tables because i prefer set rightly boost and fueling i'm working on with the ""same"" strategy that i use on a carburator engine, first fuel next boost and finally timing....



> My limit is physical, either badly built, maybe insufficient porting in the Chinafold?


Seems strange  what's your engine setup? do you have a ported TIP (80mm) ?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yes like I said it is unrelated to intake and cannot be related to exhaust, its either
1. Chinafold not ported enough (this was not a badger 
CNC ported manifold, I did this with carbide bits and a drill. Additionally, the collector was port matched to a stock k04 hotside, as my original setup was a turbo-rebuilds hybrid CHRA and our AETs have a much bigger opening.

2. Turbo back pressure as stock exhaust springs, I think this would lead to misfires rather than restriction)

3. The engine just cannot do it (maybe blow by, from badly built)

I had never changed piston rings or conrods or bearings on a car before.

Remember, I don't have the 380 VT262E AET Hybrid, but the one with a smaller intake for the Badger5 V3 TIP 370 rated AET VT262C

All that happens is as soon is it gets to about 263 g/s the boost builds up to >35 psi.

Once I accepted the limit, I was just increasing the timing advance and trying to flatten the torque, instead of a big peak early and not holding it past 5500, until the clutch started slipping.

As I'm taking off gearbox I may as well get the turbo and manifold off and open up the collector a bit more, to see if that give me an extra 25g/s

Regarding your knock, the usual is to increase fuel. But I can see from your log you're currently at about 250g/s that seemed really easy, but until I got WMI (thanks delta4 ) I couldn't get rid of the ignition retard knocking.

I may try 630cc bosch injectors too, I don't expect the TT so be sorted until summer. I just watch so much TV... 

Incidentally, did you manage to get your 5120 hack working? The specified and actual boost still look like 2559 and 2543..


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Are very interesting reading your analysis about your engine, I'll be a useful starting point for analysis mine! 
Fortunately I've changed every conrods, piston rings ecc. and I'd mounted a double springs reinforced kit for the valves, but if it will be a good point doesn't mean that will be enough!



> Regarding your knock, the usual is to increase fuel. But I can see from your log you're currently at about 250g/s that seemed really easy, but until I got WMI (thanks delta4 ) I couldn't get rid of the ignition retard knocking.


Sorry but what are WMI? And how I can log, or better, how I can analyze this retard on ecuxplot?



> Incidentally, did you manage to get your 5120 hack working? The specified and actual boost still look like 2559 and 2543..


About this I've changed strategy, again I know but I've to understand and learning how to manage this infernal ECU, and I've decided to write a map until under the MAP limit, and clearly without the 5120hack, because first I would like to have the full control of the PID and the boost. When I'll take this learning I'll be ready for trying the 5120 hack and push the boost where I want.
In fact today I'll perform another log but with a rethink map, especially regarding PID control.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Water Meth Injection (WMI)
I have AEM pump, controller, filter and non return nozzles and changed a few connectors and connected a boost gauge off the vacuum, and use quantum screen wash.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

StuartDB said:


> Water Meth Injection (WMI)
> I have AEM pump, controller, filter and non return nozzles and changed a few connectors and connected a boost gauge off the vacuum, and use quantum screen wash.


Ah ok   thanks for the clarification ! The WMI are very useful and maybe in the future I'll install a system like your for increasing horsepower and reduce the ignition retard :wink:


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

Hi Everybody guys! 
i'm finally back! i used this time for working harder for getting the best result from my tuning and here there's the results:

View attachment LOG 1.csv


View attachment map_17.zip


Seems better than others but isn't the best.
There's something wrong but i can't understand what  , up from approx 4000 Rpm there's an intervention that cut of my boost and raise up the cylinder ignition retard up to -8.5°, i don't know if could be only caused by a wrong KFLDRL (wastegate) % setup or could be a timing / torque cut off [smiley=gossip.gif] .
See the pictures of the graph attached:














































About the slower spool of my turbo i think that be caused by the MAP because i'm running near to the limit (1550 mbar), and according with S4wiki i increased TLDIAPN values (https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning#PID_vs_M ... imitations), but i've to test it.

Now, waiting reading your advices, i would like to test two different maps, one with a recalibrate WG duty cycle and another one with a powered fuel (maybe with etanol that could be drop down the ignition retard and prevent knocking issues).


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Blimey, set a maximum wastegate duty cycle to 40% and see if your knocking stops.. running like that will break your engine.. you cannot run 94% wastegate with a 10psi. actuator.

Have a look on nefarious about running fixed wastegate, to work out your wastegate = boost pressure. I think it is LDRAPP

I bet your going to 40psi. I don't go over 40% and hit the pin on my 35psi boost gauge. Maybe think about the 5120 hack, IanW on here did the necessary changes using a hex editor.


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> Have a look on nefarious about running fixed wastegate, to work out your wastegate = boost pressure. I think it is LDRAPP


yes, i've done several test using LDRAPP setted at differents WG% and i've done the El rey metod for filling KFLDRL table but the results are'nt good, as you can see.

I re setted KFLDRL like this:










What you think about it? i have to decrease the left part of the table?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

In my opinion, the left side is fine as you want to build up the boost as quickly as possible. It's a bit like trying to warm up milk on an electric hob  you need to get it boiling hot but not boil. 

Have you managed to get a clean 240g/s run - it's time consuming, but then at least can become a safe starting / reset point.

I cannot remember if you had 550s or 630s ?

_
Incidentally, what clutch have you got? That's unrelated to your logging, I am just trying to sort out my best route. I saw someone on here has success with mixing LUK and Sachs parts._


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> In my opinion, the left side is fine as you want to build up the boost as quickly as possible. It's a bit like trying to warm up milk on an electric hob  you need to get it boiling hot but not boil.


The concept are perfect :lol:



> I cannot remember if you had 550s or 630s ?


i've bosch EV14 550cc at 3bar



> Incidentally, what clutch have you got? That's unrelated to your logging, I am just trying to sort out my best route. I saw someone on here has success with mixing LUK and Sachs parts.


I'd mounted this one https://www.tij-power.com/product_info. ... _id=577977 this one are a beast, my friend with a drifting 135i BMW use this clucth by years without any issues.
When i bought that clutch i'd also bought the monomass flywheel https://www.tij-power.com/product_info. ... _id=578066 and the clucth pusher from Sachs (i don't belive that clucth pusher are right english word :lol: )
I know are a bit expensive but they are greatest products.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks that's great, I might think about converting to a single mass flywheel?

_Monomass - Single Mass_

_Clutch pusher - slave cylinder ( its also the release bearing)_


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

> Clutch pusher - slave cylinder ( its also the release bearing)


thnak you so much for the right expression 



> Thanks that's great, I might think about converting to a single mass flywheel?


considering that this engine runs better at high rpm in my opinion having something that help you to increase faster the rpm is good, so getting a monomass flywheel could be a great upgrade.
I'm feeling good with that flywheel but the first time i started using the engine after rebuild i'd "recalibrate" my left foot (the clutch one) because the relase are totally different from a dual mass flywheel.
But are only a habit :lol: now i can't feel the difference but when i push to the floor the gas pedal the rpm raise much faster than before!


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

I'm stupid! i understand what was wrong in my setup!
As you wrote Stuart the issue are casued by a wrongly WGDC :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: 
I've done a re-look to my logs took with a locked WG and, as you can see, the resul are listed below:










the log i've posted had a WGDC of 55% over 3500 rpm untill the redline....but are wrong because casues an overboost condition....if a calc rightly the pressure i runned approx to 1.8 bar 

Now i've rescaled my KFLDRL table as listed below:










In the afternoon i'll perfom a new log, cross the finger!


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## Andre-77 (Jan 27, 2018)

I performed the log and here there's the result:

View attachment LOG 19.csv


the engine runs great  but there's still an underboost conditions, i've to raise up the WGDC and finding the right values  .


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