# instrument cluster issue



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

Ok so I am I first time poster and an American so don't poke fun but I acquired a 2000 Audi TT 1.8 Turbo Quattro a few months ago with the intention of fixing it up and have been doing so a little at a time but its always run good just other issues like the radio, headlights, etc. but a few weeks ago I'm on the way home and it starts losing power and the cluster starts going nuts. It started with the speedometer and RPMs drop to zero then start popping up and down then the other gauges start jumping from top to bottom then all of the lights, CEL,etc come on, even the low oil light comes on. I pull over, turn it off and checked my oil level and for any loose wires, hoses. Everything checked out so I crank it back up and immediately the same problem starts up, I was about 5 miles from the house so I struggle through and get it home driving about 30mph.
I check the codes and had random misfire code and MAF code so I get a new MAF and harness and a new turbo breather valve.
crank it back up and the only code left is the random misfire and it runs better but cluster still flickers and ticks. I read about grounding issues so I removed the battery and tray and took the ground cable off the studs and cleaned them with a wire brush really good and put everything back together and... nothing.
From everything I've read the clusters on these are pretty bad and need to be rebuilt but its pricey so I really want to try and eliminate everything else I can do cheaper before I send the cluster off. 
Can anyone offer any other possible solutions, ideas or even more questions??


----------



## TT Grant (Apr 24, 2018)

Welcome friend,

I have only owned TT's for a few weeks & found the crowd here to be a font of knowledge & very friendly re these excellent little machines.
it is worth using the "search" feature for answers to questions here, as everything has all been fixed, re-fixed, & fixed again.

Once you get down to it, they are actually quite simple, but just need a German sideways look at everything.

There are a bucket load of little niggles these machines suffer from - as I'm finding out, but here in the UK, they are so cheap to fix up.
I went & got a 2nd TT of the same engine type to rob for parts & break stuff as I learn, so the "runner" doesn't get busted due to my inexperience.

One thing I have learned in a few short weeks is that there is an instruction/maintenance manual published by publishers called "Bentley"... this is a MUST HAVE for a home mechanic.

The other thing to learn, is... if it wont come off - don't force it, there will be a tiny German bolt some where hidden...

You will be constantly amazed how quick these little cars are & how easy it is to bash your skull getting one too.

have a great day.
Grant B


----------



## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi, welcome. I'm not an expert but reading your symptoms it looks like your battery could be on its way out or the regulator on the alternator perhaps. TT's do crazy things when voltage is low. Someone with more knowledge than me will be along shortly ( Hoggy ) to give you a few more suggestions.


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Welcome to the TTF.
From the symptoms it does appear to be a voltage prob, but jumping needles can be a sign of faulty processor in dashpod.
What is the battery standing voltage & also with engine running.
Any fault codes ?
Hoggy.


----------



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

Thanks Hoggy and other responders, I already have the cluster out and will probably go ahead and send it off just because it wouldn't hurt but it really does sound more like either a ground issue or some other voltage issue. I did replace the fuse connector box on top of the battery and the battery when I first bought it so I know those 2 are good.


----------



## Wak (May 6, 2002)

So you need to review the climate control trick 
Choose 20C and monitor voltage when this issue occurs.

Your logic on it can't hurt, is a bit flawed if it's the alternator regulator failing sending a perfectly good cluster off to a repair shop can hurt a lot if they try to fix a fault that's not there or the risks of refits being out.


----------



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

I'm not familiar with the "climate trick" but I'm certainly open to it. and what would be the best way to test the alternator regulator?


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

bigorangeman said:


> I'm not familiar with the "climate trick" but I'm certainly open to it. and what would be the best way to test the alternator regulator?


Hi, Click link follow instructions. Most useful, Code 49 Actual coolant temp...Code 20 Voltage.





Hoggy.


----------



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

Ok guys thanks again for the advice. So I had taken the cluster out assuming I'd have to send it off but I put it back in so I could try the climate control trick and check the voltage, well I checked the voltage on 20C (11.7) but when I tried to crank it up it just shut off, I mean no lights no power no nothing. Did I just kill it??


----------



## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

bigorangeman said:


> Ok guys thanks again for the advice. So I had taken the cluster out assuming I'd have to send it off but I put it back in so I could try the climate control trick and check the voltage, well I checked the voltage on 20C (11.7) but when I tried to crank it up it just shut off, I mean no lights no power no nothing. Did I just kill it??


Hi, 11.7 v is a flat battery & probably dropped to 6 v under load of starter. Did you check voltage with engine running to prove alternator is charging.
Charge battery for minimum of 12 hours or replace it.
Hoggy.


----------



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

No thats the issue now, when I plugged the cluster back in and tried to crank it everything shut off and wouldn't crank no power whatsoever. Either its a bad cluster or I was supposed to do something before I unplugged it to start with and now I've fried something. Lets hope its the first.


----------



## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

Like Hoggy said if it was showing under 12 volts before you tried to crank it your battery is effectively flat. Trying to crank would just cause everything to shut off as voltage drops. Try a different battery or charge yours properly and try again.

Nick


----------



## bigorangeman (Apr 6, 2018)

**UPDATE:
I replaced the battery (it was still under warranty) and that did allow it to crank but still ran rough and cluster still freaking out so I decided to replace the alternator (cost less than just replacing the voltage regulator) Still doing the same thing.
I had already replaced the MAF and the code went away but decided this morning to unplug it and it ran a lot better so not sure if the MAF I bought was bad or what but the cluster is still the same. I'm not sure if the MAF is the only problem with the rough running but its certainly looking like the cluster issue is the actual cluster. 
Thoughts?


----------



## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

Nearly all of the cars electrics run through the dash pod and it can be touchey if something is not right so until you get the pod fixed then I think you will still have the issue! Also do not plug in the pod if the power is on so the battery needs to be disconnected after the front doors have been closed for ten minutes to ensure this and the opposite on reattaching if you see what I mean as the pod stays live for several minutes after closing.

Stevie


----------

