# Stereo Fitting - Amplifier/Bluetooth Weirdness!



## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

Hi Guys,

I thought this deserved its own thread, i did post about it in my "new member" post but its just boggled me.

My car is a 2008 TT 2.0 TFSI Roadster with a Symphony Stereo - non-bose.

I bought a Sony XAV-AX1000 stereo to fit, along with the CTKAU03 kit from Dynamic Sounds (connects2 kit).

Fitted all last night, bit of a palava with getting it all to fit as the hole for the cage is very tight.

Sound was seemingly only coming from the centre speaker and very quietly from the front sides.

I was messing with the steering wheel controls and pressed the clicker on the roller next to mode after i pressed the MODE button and the car sound came to life. the rear speakers kicked in and it was fantastic.

Then after 2 seconds it went back to normal.

This kept happening; we just couldnt figure out what would cause the amp to only work temporarily. Took it all out and checked all wires, all seemed fine.

Gave up after 4 hours

I've trawled through post after post and googled until my phone died.

Called Dynamic Sounds this morning and they asked straight away if i had bluetooth fitted. I said no as assumed i didnt, however i've just been out to the car and i do in fact have bluetooth.

The guy on the phone said i need to disconnect the bluetooth module.

That's as far as i have got - has anyone had anything like this happen before? Can the bluetooth module simply be disconnected? I read somewhere that its under the seat, christ!

Cheers
Daz


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

The factory Bluetooth telephone unit is under the carpet under the passenger seat. You can disable it with VCDS or disconnect it.

I don't remember hearing on this forum of problems with the factory Bluetooth unit causing problems with aftermarket HUs, but I might of forgotten!


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

tttony said:


> The factory Bluetooth telephone unit is under the carpet under the passenger seat. You can disable it with VCDS or disconnect it.
> 
> I don't remember hearing on this forum of problems with the factory Bluetooth unit causing problems with aftermarket HUs, but I might of forgotten!


I'll take a look later at disconnecting it.

I have a video of what happens and i'll try and update it.

I found another thread that seemed to explain the same issues, here, https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=184374 however nobody ever posted whether it was resolved


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I can't think why Bluetooth would have any affect on it.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

barry_m2 said:


> I can't think why Bluetooth would have any affect on it.


Believe me, its driving me crackers.

but pressing MODE, which makes the centre display say "INSERT PHONE" and then pressing the left thumb wheel makes the volume and sound quality increase, with the rear speakers coming on.

If you press the left thumb wheel without pressing MODE it just changes the station, it doesnt impact the sound at all.

happens for 2 seconds and then back to normal

Does the bluetooth module do something to volume when taking calls or something?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

daztovey said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > I can't think why Bluetooth would have any affect on it.
> ...


Yeah, mode switches the display between phone and radio display. But it doesn't (or shouldn't) actually switch input to the phone/bluetooth device.

Is your phone connected to Bluetooth?

It could be that the connector in the back of the headunit has the phone mute line/wire in the wrong place?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

No, not connected to Bluetooth. I wasn't even aware the car had it.

Photo of the back of the head unit below.

The only thing that has been done that is bothering me, but I asked my mate who wired it with me, is the blue/white wire out the back of the stereo goes into the block but nothing comes out the other side. The blue wire from the car is attached to the switch live so it's powered with the key, rather than the stereo.

If I unplug the steering controls and turn the stereo on, the problem still occurs. The steering controls still affect the stereo sound/amplifier


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## gggav (Aug 13, 2018)

No need to go under the seat. The Bluetooth module has its own fuse, no. 47, think mine was a 7.5 amp...


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

gggav said:


> No need to go under the seat. The Bluetooth module has its own fuse, no. 47, think mine was a 7.5 amp...


just taken the fuse out, killed the buttons on the steering wheel but no change in sound


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Ok, maybe your amp isn't getting a signal/power from the head unit to switch on. Pressing the mode button may be briefly supplying the amp with power via the Bluetooth module?

I think that Blue/White wire is the remote lead isn't it?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

barry_m2 said:


> Ok, maybe your amp isn't getting a signal/power from the head unit to switch on. Pressing the mode button may be briefly supplying the amp with power via the Bluetooth module?
> 
> I think that Blue/White wire is the remote lead isn't it?


Yes it's the remote lead that you'd normally connect to the blue wire from the car. I have connected this to switched live so the amp should be getting power when the key is turned on? It's crimped to switch live along with the aerial. Or is that not right?

In my head, that gives power with the key on to the aerial and amp.

What you've said makes sense, however I have no idea how to test it


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

daztovey said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, maybe your amp isn't getting a signal/power from the head unit to switch on. Pressing the mode button may be briefly supplying the amp with power via the Bluetooth module?
> ...


I believe the amp is powered on via a signal from the canbus rather than remote from the headunit. I've not fitted one in a TT, so maybe have a search around for how to fit an aftermarket headunit. May be that you need to do something different!? Or have the wrong adapter?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

barry_m2 said:


> daztovey said:
> 
> 
> > barry_m2 said:
> ...


I need to unplug the Bluetooth module tomorrow and see whether that does anything. If not I may just have to revert back to the old stereo and return the new one.

It's really bothered me today and I can't seem to get an answer from any of the companies that make or sell these cables. The guy at dynamic audio couldn't have sounded less interested if he tried.


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## gggav (Aug 13, 2018)

I fitted a Sony XAV-AX100 a few years ago to my 2013 that came with Navigation Plus and Bose, so a different setup. I used this guide which was really helpful:
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=973058
Take note of the part that mentions recoding to tell the amp to switch on via 12v rather than canbus. I had to do this. My symptoms were no sound at all, though I don't remember trying the mode button. I don't know if this applies to non Bose but maybe of help...


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

As an update, I tried removing the Bluetooth module under the passenger seat.

A lot of hassle getting the seat out, however it made absolutely no difference. All it did was disable the Phone buttons on the steering wheel. No improvement in sound.

I've now put it back together and will try finding someone with VCDS and coding the sound module. Failing that it's old stereo back in and a sony stereo and some wiring for sale!


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Don't give up just yet!



> just taken the fuse out, killed the buttons on the steering wheel but no change in sound


 I assume that you mean fuse 48. Leave that one in and try removing fuse 48 which only feeds "Preparation for mobile phone" and nothing else.

If that doesn't work, I see three possibilities.

1. There is some weird interaction going on in your car that has not been reported here before. That is unlikely I think, as so many of us have installed after market HUs in cars with all combinations of original equipment.

2. There is a fault with the Connects2 wiring harness. That is possible but again I've not heard it reported.

3. You have made a mistake in connecting up the wiring. Given how simple it mostly is, the most likely issue is how you connected up the blue wires. Can you explain exactly how you have connected them?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

I think it was fuse 47 that I removed.

I've tried removing the fuse as well as unplugging the entire Bluetooth module under the passenger seat.

The blue wire from the stereo goes nowhere. It goes into the connector block. The other end of the blue wire that comes from the harness that controls the steering wheel has been crimped to the switch live of the harness along with the aerial.

Both cables need a power source so made sense to crimp together. Can be seen in the pictures on the earlier page.

Something must explain why the amp only appears on when you press MODE and the left thumb clicker. What is pressing that supposed to do normally?

My head tells me the steering controls from connects2 should override the steering controls for the Bluetooth. Hence why the chap at dynamic sounds told me to unplug the module. However it didn't change a thing. Just disabled the steering wheel buttons for the Bluetooth. Same as pulling the fuse.

There isn't anything you can get wrong with the wiring on the reverse. It's all plug and play bar the power for the aerial and power for the amp (blue wire).


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

I assume that you mean fuse 48. Leave that one in and try removing fuse 48 which only feeds "Preparation for mobile phone" and nothing else.

Sorry, that's my typing error. I meant to say that I assumed you tried removing fuse 47 as that is what gggav suggested to you. Try removing just fuse 48.

The mode button on the steering wheel as has no function with after market HUs. If it still does something for you, that indicates that it is still interacting with the factory Bluetooth module.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

I don't have a fuse in 48, only 47


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Fitted one of these to my 2014 1.8tfsi which had factory bluetooth which didn't pose any issues, install was straightforward apart from a dodgy patch lead which was returned/replaced.

Kinda hard to see all your connections- can you take some pics with the wires stretched out incl rear of stereo?

If I remember right on the connects2 instructions you have to open the stalk module and change the switch positions to work with sony patch lead- not saying this is the issue but would be good to see wiring in first case

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

In case you have it all plugged in another thought is from my reading of your message you have connected the power for aerial and amp to preout (blue), this is preout for sub and won't power unless you turn on sub on hu settings - so could try turning sub on in eq settings and see if that works

I connected the amp/aerial to switched live (think it was red) so never had this problem but after installing sub at a later date realised the preout had to be turned on (in the hu settings)

Also just splice the green (handbrake) into earth (black) - saves faffing around

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Fitted one of these to my 2014 1.8tfsi which had factory bluetooth which didn't pose any issues, install was straightforward apart from a dodgy patch lead which was returned/replaced.
> 
> Kinda hard to see all your connections- can you take some pics with the wires stretched out incl rear of stereo?
> 
> ...


I will take some pictures a little later.

What Connects2 kit did you buy? i bought this..... https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/connect ... g-kit.html

The patch lead came wired, luckily, for a SONY anyhow so didnt require any changing. Nothing suggested opening it up, it jut had different loops to move around for each stereo brand.

I have connected power for aerial and amp to RED which i assume is switched live.

I havent got the handbrake attached to anything; what exactly does this control?

Everything just suggests that something isnt telling the Amp to turn on properly. Interesting, when you press MODE it stops the thumb volume control from working too, untill you press it again


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Amp/accessory switch on is usually blue or blue with white stripe.

Red is usually constant power/switched live

Handbrake connections turns the ability to view images - pictures/video off whilst moving.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

A few pictures below

I unplugged the patch lead from the stereo as well as the rca cables for speakers and the aerial to take these shots, it was to make the wiring as simple as possible to show


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Should work regarless of SWC, try holding the blue wire from the HU in the spare yellow terminal and see if speakers work correctly - if this works then preout isn't powering and likely needs to be turned on in HU settings. Assuming the RCA's are in the correct positions?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> skinz86 said:
> 
> 
> > Fitted one of these to my 2014 1.8tfsi which had factory bluetooth which didn't pose any issues, install was straightforward apart from a dodgy patch lead which was returned/replaced.
> ...


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Should work regarless of SWC, try holding the blue wire from the HU in the spare yellow terminal and see if speakers work correctly - if this works then preout isn't powering and likely needs to be turned on in HU settings. Assuming the RCA's are in the correct positions?


I have just unclipped the blue/white wire from the harness from the back of the HU and placed against the yellow connector. Didnt do anything, no change.

RCA's are all correct; they're labelled clearly.

should i buy another set of cables for a car WITH Bose, despite the fact that mine doesnt have it. Just to see what is different?


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Is this blue tooth kit original Audi equipment or an after market one?

Is there a chance that anyone had been playing with the wires before?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

happychappy said:


> Is this blue tooth kit original Audi equipment or an after market one?
> 
> Is there a chance that anyone had been playing with the wires before?


Original Audi bluetooth - i took the module out on Saturday to see if unplugging it made any difference. It just disabled the bluetooth and steering wheel controls but didnt bring the stereo sound to life.

I cant see that anyone has changed anything. It was owned by the same family since new, the mother, then daughther.

What colour should the wire be from the car side that plugs into the blue amp wire at the connector? Green/yellow?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Have you pulled any cables out the iso? from the pic it looks like the blue is missing from rear of iso connectior (should be above the orange)


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Also splice the green handbrake to earth (black) - don't think this will be causing your issue, but HU won't opeate correctly unless connected - so as a process of elimination I'd get this connected to test


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

From a closer look at the pics it looks like you have the antenna (blue) connected to amp (blue), and nothing connected to amp (blue/white) from HU - do you have a mulimeter to check whats getting switched power?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Have you pulled any cables out the iso? from the pic it looks like the blue is missing from rear of iso connectior (should be above the orange)


In which picture do you think its missing?

The blue/white wire is shown going from the back of the stereo into the connector block in the picture with the caption "harness from the back of the stereo"

There is no connection the other side as this is wired to live/switched live


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Sorry for spamming - but looking again, your blue/white needs to be connectd to the blue which has been crimped to aerial blue), then connect aerial blue to switched red


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> skinz86 said:
> 
> 
> > Have you pulled any cables out the iso? from the pic it looks like the blue is missing from rear of iso connectior (should be above the orange)
> ...


This one

EDIT:

to elaborate, it looks like the blue (closest to your hand) is the amp rem, and it appears to connect to aerial (crimped) - when this should be connected to the iso opposite blue/white - thats why I was wondering if you had pulled this out

The way its wired it looks like the rem from loom is connected to recieve switch from aerial (blue) which would be why its not working


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> From a closer look at the pics it looks like you have the antenna (blue) connected to amp (blue), and nothing connected to amp (blue/white) from HU - do you have a mulimeter to check whats getting switched power?


Yes, this is correct. Should i remove amp (blue) from being crimped to switch live and wire it to the blue/white connector from the HU?

I thought this blue/white wire just told the amp to turn on. Surely wiring it to live does that?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> skinz86 said:
> 
> 
> > From a closer look at the pics it looks like you have the antenna (blue) connected to amp (blue), and nothing connected to amp (blue/white) from HU - do you have a mulimeter to check whats getting switched power?
> ...


It does but your looking at it in the wrong direction - the blue/white sends power out from HU to amp - the blue which is connected to the aerial is what needs the power from HU to turn on amp - if that makes sense

EDIT: like if you take the aerial out the equation, the blue wire going back to quadlock should be connected to the blue/white from HU


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> daztovey said:
> 
> 
> > skinz86 said:
> ...


OK, i'll pop out and cut the crimp off and temporarily bypass the connector as i dont have any ISO connectors to plug it in. I'll attahced blue/white from HU to blue from car and see what happens


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> OK, i'll pop out and cut the crimp off and temporarily bypass the connector as i dont have any ISO connectors to plug it in. I'll attahced blue/white from HU to blue from car and see what happens


I re-read your message, it's going to be a process of elimimination - I suspect the issue lies with the crimped connection. If you take aerial out equation, and ensure that yellow-yellow, red-red, blue/white-blue


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> daztovey said:
> 
> 
> > OK, i'll pop out and cut the crimp off and temporarily bypass the connector as i dont have any ISO connectors to plug it in. I'll attahced blue/white from HU to blue from car and see what happens
> ...


Done - made no difference. Ive removed the blue/white from the connector and twisted it with blue from the connector block.

This just leaves red/red, yellow/yellow and the aerial power (blue) crimped to red

I get sound but predominantly front centre speaker - its only when i press MODE and the thumb wheel that i get rear audio

Is there any way of finding out what the thumb wheel press is supposed to do and why it powers the amp 100% suddenly? does the controls from that part of the steering wheel not go through the stereo wiring, just direct to bluetooth module?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

The press on mine does ATT - if you press ATT on HU does this boot up rear speakers?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Could try unplugging green connector (SWC) from quad lock, and see if the issue still persists - would help narrow down where the fault lies as the HU should function without SWC


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> The press on mine does ATT - if you press ATT on HU does this boot up rear speakers?


ATT acts as it should, i think. Pretty sure it attenuates with the right thumb press and left thumb press, until MODE is pressed.

with MODE pressed it seems to change everything. Its as if the bluetooth module is overriding everything the stereo is trying to do; this is why i'd hoped to simply remove it. However unplugging it didnt do anything. Should it have been bypassed rather than unplugged?

The only option i can see left is to try coding the Amp; i read somewhere about it needing to know what power source to expect?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Could try unplugging green connector (SWC) from quad lock, and see if the issue still persists - would help narrow down where the fault lies as the HU should function without SWC


do you still have the car/stereo? Any way of comparing the wires? its driving me crackers and i'm very close to just putting the standard stereo back in

although, saying that, i dont recall it sounding much different with that in if i'm honest


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

daztovey said:


> The only option i can see left is to try coding the Amp; i read somewhere about it needing to know what power source to expect?


That's only for Bose amps. The standard Audi amp is set for 'remote' which is what you want.


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

I think, with the SWC taken out the equation (green quadlock connector) you'd need to get a multimeter on the remote wire and check readings

This is a strange one though, there is a telemute on the audi loom - quad which would override but can't see what this connects to on the Connects2 harness in pics


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> I think, with the SWC taken out the equation (green quadlock connector) you'd need to get a multimeter on the remote wire and check readings
> 
> This is a strange one though, there is a telemute on the audi loom - quad which would override but can't see what this connects to on the Connects2 harness in pics


It's almost as if its muted until i press that thumbwheel and then it comes to life.

Is there a picture i can take to help? what wire am i looking for?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> The patch lead came wired, luckily, for a SONY anyhow so didnt require any changing.


Are you 100% sure that the universal patch lead was correctly wired for a Sony HU? I don't like the universal ones. At the price (£4) you could invest in a dedicated Sony One. Also skinz86 said that he has a faulty patch lead when doing his install. At least a new lead would rule out one more possibility.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

tttony said:


> > The patch lead came wired, luckily, for a SONY anyhow so didnt require any changing.
> 
> 
> Are you 100% sure that the universal patch lead was correctly wired for a Sony HU? I don't like the universal ones. At the price (£4) you could invest in a dedicated Sony One. Also skinz86 said that he has a faulty patch lead when doing his install. At least a new lead would rule out one more possibility.


I will order one - is there a specific part number im looking for?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> It's almost as if its muted until i press that thumbwheel and then it comes to life.


That's exactly what it is supposed to do. Pressing the volume roller toggles between muted and normal volume.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

tttony said:


> > It's almost as if its muted until i press that thumbwheel and then it comes to life.
> 
> 
> That's exactly what it is supposed to do. Pressing the volume roller toggles between muted and normal volume.


its not the volume roller, its the track select/skip roller that brings it to life


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

The green connector into the quadlock on mine powers the speakers, so removing it just kills the sound

the only thing that meets the green connector is the thick RCA cables


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

tttony said:


> > The patch lead came wired, luckily, for a SONY anyhow so didnt require any changing.
> 
> 
> Are you 100% sure that the universal patch lead was correctly wired for a Sony HU? I don't like the universal ones. At the price (£4) you could invest in a dedicated Sony One. Also skinz86 said that he has a faulty patch lead when doing his install. At least a new lead would rule out one more possibility.


The faulty patch lead for mine only affected the SWC - but appreciate these controllers/leads are quite tempremental. However the SWC aren't required to install an aftermarket radio, that's why I was suggesting to remove these from the install as a process of elimination to trace where this fault is coming from


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> I will order one - is there a specific part number im looking for?


Search "Connects2 Sony patch" on eBay and loads will come up.


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> The green connector into the quadlock on mine powers the speakers, so removing it just kills the sound
> 
> the only thing that meets the green connector is the thick RCA cables





daztovey said:


> The green connector into the quadlock on mine powers the speakers, so removing it just kills the sound
> 
> the only thing that meets the green connector is the thick RCA cables


Ahh sorry thought this was stalk controls (just checked diagram on top of my old radio) - are the pins on the connects2 undamaged where the green connector is? - do these all correspond with each other

Chances are the connects2 module may be at fault - Connects2 have an excellent tech dept - would maybe expain to them whats happening and see if they have any suggestions


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

The CanBus connects2 module can be opened and iirc there are 4 switches and one or two of them had to be moved to suit sony lead - there was a note stuck on to my instructions which looks like it may be a fix to issues with the kit - I'll keep on looking to see if I can find this, but connects2 should be able to advise if this should be checked


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> The CanBus connects2 module can be opened and iirc there are 4 switches and one or two of them had to be moved to suit sony lead - there was a note stuck on to my instructions which looks like it may be a fix to issues with the kit - I'll keep on looking to see if I can find this, but connects2 should be able to advise if this should be checked


i emailed them on Friday, no response yet

is it worth reinstalling the Symphony stereo and seeing whether i get the same symptoms? I didnt know i had bluetooth so didnt ever press those buttons before?


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> skinz86 said:
> 
> 
> > The CanBus connects2 module can be opened and iirc there are 4 switches and one or two of them had to be moved to suit sony lead - there was a note stuck on to my instructions which looks like it may be a fix to issues with the kit - I'll keep on looking to see if I can find this, but connects2 should be able to advise if this should be checked
> ...


Can I check - what was the exact blue wire you connected to HU remote, was this one that came from harness or one that came from the canbus module?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> daztovey said:
> 
> 
> > skinz86 said:
> ...


from the harness; there is no blue wire from the module

the harness has a blue/white twisted set that goes into the module, however i connected the other blue wire that came from the quadlock joining harness

that blue wire seems to ajoin a green/yellow one on the car-side of the quadlock from what i can see


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Yeah so the connections are as follows

1.single blue wire on connects2 is connected to sony blue/white
2. yellow - yellow
3. red- red
4. blue aerial is spliced into red

if correct then I'd assume the fault lies with the connects2 module, so would get another one ordered


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Where are you based?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Yeah so the connections are as follows
> 
> 1.single blue wire on connects2 is connected to sony blue/white
> 2. yellow - yellow
> ...


Yep, that's exactly how its wired.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> Where are you based?


In Solihull, West Midlands.

I have a mate who is an auto electrician for Jag/Landrover and he is stumped too


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

daztovey said:


> skinz86 said:
> 
> 
> > Where are you based?
> ...


Ahh I'm up in scotland - think the sensible thing would be to get a hold of a new wiring kit and see if the fault lies with the connects2 control box - fitted many of these over the years and its not uncommon for there to be faults with these - even powering up/connecting in wrong order can throw these out of sync


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

skinz86 said:


> daztovey said:
> 
> 
> > skinz86 said:
> ...


i've ordered a sony patch lead from ebay and just ordered a new set of harnesses/module from a different company

the guy at dynamic sounds sounded really uninterested when we spoke on the phone.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

on the wiring diagram on the original stereo there is a connector called DSP EIN which, after a quick google, seems to be the amp turn on.

is it worth connecting a wire from the blue/white of the head unit directly to this to see if it works?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

I took the connectors apart to see which did and didn't meet.

The diagram on the original stereo is below along with the connections.

The obvious one that has no reciprocal is the pink wire for telephone mute.

I put the original stereo back in and pressing mode and then the thumb wheel just brings up "phone" on the stereo screen. It doesn't change the sound, of anything it cuts out slightly.

With the original stereo in it seems to play the speakers all correctly. Although I think front right by my knee is blown as there's no sound


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

UPDATE:

Tried a replacement set of cables, same issues.

Emailed a guy in the US from a company called "Enfig" as has lots of videos on Youtube. This is what he advised:

_My best guess is that you have the digital turn on activated. 
Pressing the mode button wakes up the amp for a second because its designed to work even when the radio is off so It probably goes directly to the amp.
Since you have a roadster the front speakers are also amplified even if you do not have Bose.
Because you do not have our HIO harness all amplified speakers will sound flat. But since they all sound flat you will not know the difference._

He recommended i change the coding through VCDS.

I will try that and if no joy, return it all to standard and just make do with a standard stereo


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

The standard Amp should already be coded for an analogue signal, which is what you need. It's only a Bose amp that will be coded for a digital signal to turn on.

But, I remember you saying that your original headunit done exactly the same didn't you? Are you sure you don't have Bose?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

barry_m2 said:


> The standard Amp should already be coded for an analogue signal, which is what you need. It's only a Bose amp that will be coded for a digital signal to turn on.
> 
> But, I remember you saying that your original headunit done exactly the same didn't you? Are you sure you don't have Bose?


Checked VCDS and amp was coded for analogue.

I've given up and removed the new stereo and replaced with the standard one.

With the standard one back in, pressing MODE and then the left thumb wheel brings up "PHONE" on the stereo screen and silences the stereo. Weird how, with the new stereo in, it does the opposite and makes it come to life. It's as if something is backwards

Connects2 finally responded to me with this:_

well this is a strange one then because the amplifier states its digital, yet its still switching on from an analogue signal.

you could potentially try the CTSAD009.2 which effectively looks identical to what you have but the software on the interface has been adjusted to suit the digital amplifier variant vehicle which in normal circumstances, would not turn on from a wired signal but more so a CAN signal instead.

alternatively to use the HIGH level output interface instead being the CTSAD006.2 which uses the high level outputs of the head unit as of supposed to the low level. 
_

Unsure what to do next, may be a case of digging some cds out and just putting the stereo up for sale


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

Its a strange one - just noticed your pic a couple of posts back which shows quad from car - iirc mine had speaker output on this which covered the front speakers, then the rear were through rca.

No expert but the way the quad is it looks like your speakers must all be off an amp - so maybe it is a case of different harness, could it be that you acutally have bose?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> Its a strange one - just noticed your pic a couple of posts back which shows quad from car - iirc mine had speaker output on this which covered the front speakers, then the rear were through rca.


No, not correct. On cars with with either the "Standard Sound System" or the "Bose Sound System" all the speakers are powered by the amp in the boot.


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## skinz86 (Jul 8, 2019)

tttony said:


> No, not correct. On cars with with either the "Standard Sound System" or the "Bose Sound System" all the speakers are powered by the amp in the boot.


Ah was over a year ago when I fitted mine, seems a bit pointless populating the quad


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

i assume my wiring means my car is fully amplified?

perhaps i will get another Connects2 loom at some point, but for now, i've really lost interest in it


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

There are 3 different ways it can be amplified.

Bose Amp
Audi Amp
No Amp (powered from head unit).

Just for clarification, there is no such thing as 'half amplified'.

If you want to know if you have Bose, have a look behind the left wheel arch cover in the boot. Amp will be in there.


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

barry_m2 said:


> There are 3 different ways it can be amplified.
> 
> Bose Amp
> Audi Amp
> ...


I had a look a week or so ago; there was a silver box inside the boot liner. Does this mean Bose or Audi or either?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

It sounds like there is an amp there. It would have had 'Bose' written on it if it was.

If it didn't, it'll just be the standard Audi amp.

Bose Amp.....


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

Yeah it's the standard one, just a silver rectangle box.

Should I try some other connectors, like connects2 have suggested?

Not sure which one out of the two


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

I now have the standard stereo back in the car and, out of interest, i moved the fader to the rear and the volume is incredibly low.

Most of the volume comes from the front centre speaker.

Is this normal; i thought these symptoms were only experienced on aftermarket stereos.

The MODE button and left thumbwheel are acting as they should now in using the phone bluetooth and make no difference to sound.

I want to give up on this as its really getting me down, but i dont own any CD's (its got a 6 CD changer) and the radio is next to useless when travelling as it goes out of range every 5 miles.


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

I think you need to go back to basics and start again;

Get the wiring diagram for the amp, original stereo, new stereo and connection kit and go from there.It shouldn't be too difficult once you have all that and a pen and paper.

And CD Changer wiring.


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

What was the status of the system before you started?

Did all speakers work equally and to spec?

Steve


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

If you have given in, why not let a car audio fitting professional take over?

There must be an after market car audio expert near to you, what part of the country are you in?


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## daztovey (Jul 2, 2020)

Llewkcalb said:


> What was the status of the system before you started?
> 
> Did all speakers work equally and to spec?
> 
> Steve


The stereo didnt sound great when i bought it - but hard to tell what it SHOULD sound like, having never owned a car with a system like this. It sounds poor, hence why i wanted to swap it out.

My previous cars have had HK from BMW and before that i had old cars that had stereos manually installed with aftermarket speakers all without an amp.

Putting my ear to the drivers door i can tell there is no sound from there. There is sound from centre dash, the corners of the dash and very very quiet from behind the seats.

When i installed the aftermarket stereo and pressed that sequence of buttons the rear speakers came to life. It actually sounded pretty good, if only for 2 seconds.

The car is totally standard, it hadnt been fettled with or changed at all.

I live in Solihull, in the Midlands.

If i'm honest, im not sure im going to keep the car so i may well just leave it alone and buy some CD's off ebay.


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