# Retrofit: power folding wing mirrors



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I recently fitted power folding wing mirrors, here is a quick guide for those who may be interested.

These are the parts that are needed, however depending on your spec/year you may not need all of them.


```
4H0 959 565 4PK    | Switch for electrically operated and folding exterior mirrors (aluminium)
8J2 959 528 A 6PS  | Switch mounting for electric fold-in exterior mirrors (RHD)
8J1 959 527 A 6PS  | Switch mounting for electric fold-in exterior mirrors (LHD)
8J0 919 175 B      | Fibre optic conductor for electrically adjustable, foldable and heated exterior mirrors

4H0 962 109 6PS    | Button for deactivation of anti-theft alarm system and tow-away protection

8Jx 959 801 x      | Driver side door module (below)
8Jx 959 802 x      | Passenger side door module (see below)

8J0 857 508 B      | Driver side power folding mirror mechanism and loom
8J0 857 507 B      | Passenger side power folding mirror mechanism and loom
8J0 898 011        | Parts kit (including M6 bolt for bracket)
```
The door modules will start with '8J8' for a coupe and '8J7' for a roadster. Revision 'D' (from ~June 2007) and 'H' (from ~June 2010) are compatible. Pin swaps might be required depending on the age of your car, see below for details on this.

I took the opportunity to fit the nicer aluminium trimmed switch (the first photo shows a cheap one, it looked and felt rubbish so I'm glad I replaced it with a genuine one).



















Since I was upgrading my prefacelift door modules with newer facelift ones, I also needed to replace the alarm button.










Next is the power folding mirror bases. Again there are multiple revisions and the above is what I used. You can buy the whole mirror or sometimes just the base online. Normal mirrors with no power fold and no anti-dazzle have 6 wires, power fold have 8 wires and power fold with anti-dazzle have 10. The power fold wires are pink and blue, and it will help if the loom is included as it will then be plug and play. All other parts from your existing mirrors can be reused.

Lastly, it is highly likely that the 'soft screw' will be damaged during removal, and the only way to get a replacement is with the parts kit, which includes all the screws for the whole mirror.

Fitting

Follow this guide to remove the mirror from the car: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=254428

Then follow this guide to remove the door trim: http://lz7w.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/door ... witch.html

The mirror wire also needs to be removed, unless you are adding in the extra 2 wires yourself (pins 14 and 15). There is a grommet and a couple of clips inside the panel, so the lower woofer speaker will need to be removed for access, and it is held in with a couple of torx screws. Access is tight and there is little visibility so it will have to be done through feel with some long nosed pliers. Once it is out reverse the process to fit the new wire.

Now the mirror can be refitted with the power folding base installed, in reverse of removal. With the door trim removed, pop out the mirror switch and put the new one in.

If you are replacing the door module then also replace this now. It is just a matter of a few torx screws and it will pull out. If switching from a prefacelift to a facelift module, pins will need to be swapped in the 20 and 32 pin connectors (see here). Also swap the alarm button if required, and refit the door trim.

With everything refitted you can now code the new modules. Start by using the coding of the original modules to check everything works as expected. You will need to reset the windows, by closing the door and holding the window switch down all the way to the bottom, then all the way to the top. This should enable one touch on the switch as well as the drop when you open the door.

If everything is fine, add 4096 to each door to enable the power folding mirrors and clear all faults caused by unplugging everything and you should be done!

It is also possible to get them to fold using the convenience function on the keyfob, depending on which modules you have fitted https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9396221


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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi MT-V6,

I have a 2007 3.2 roadster and want to fit electrically folding wing mirrors, which door module part numbers are required as I believe to 2007 is pre-face lift and I have read only certain modules will work? Is this correct


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Hi, that's the same as mine. Highly unlikely to have the correct modules. The ones above will work but will require repinning, I am not sure which prefacelift modules support folding mirrors

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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi, Thank you for getting back to me.

I already have the folding mirrors and modules, I will confirm part numbers later.


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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi, I purchased the folding mirrors as a kit off a guy.

They came as door modules, folding mirrors, looms and mirror switch and plate.

Modules are 8J8959801 H and 8J8959802 H

Folding mirrors are 8J0857507 P and 8J0857508 P

Looms with 10 wires exiting into mirror

Mirror switch and plate exactly as yours

I also have a Ross Tech VCDS

Confirmation please from your instructions as follow;

Preface pin -> Facelift pin (Colour)
7 -> 6 (Brown)
11 -> 12 (Grey/green)
12 -> 18 (Red/yellow)
13 -> 16 (Blue/white) * Driver side only
15 -> 7 (Grey/purple)
16 -> 13 (Brown/blue)
18 -> 11 (Black) * Driver side only

Does this mean (I have not yet taken door cards off to look at the wiring) move the brown wire from position 7 to position 6 etc? also do you remove the pins by inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver?

and then the same for your instructions on 32-pin connector

Cheers

Lee


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'll reply properly after work but yes, basically. The connectors come apart and you'll see the pins. You can press them in with a small precision screwdriver and then pull the wire out

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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Okay - thank you for replying.

You sound like a bit of a electrical buff - I may have another question for you on aftermarket head unit wiring - is this something you could also help me on?

Cheers

Lee


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Btw if you have the 10 wire mirrors and have the glass too, and also have a dimming rear view mirror, you can wire up dimming wing mirrors

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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'd recommend making another thread for the stereo question to see what others say, and if I can help I'll reply there

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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi, no I do not have the correct dimming mirror so I can not use that option

So I am correct in my assumption that the details you give on the pins is the current position, then there new position and the colour of the wire that you are moving.....

How is the alarm/anti tilt button wired? Or is it simply unplug old and plug in the new one

Cheers

Lee


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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi MT-V6 (sorry I can not send PM's - I have not made enough posts yet)

Can I just double check on the re-pin of 32 pin connector, you advise;

13_>27
16_>5
17_>4
30_>10

13 =Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
16 =Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring) 
17 =Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor) 
30 =Button for interior monitoring

on another audi forum is states that the pin for the above on the face lift 32 pin connector are

10 =Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
4 =Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring) 
5 =Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor) 
27 =Button for interior monitoring

Can I ask why you have re-pin'ed the way you have ? is it to do with the single door switch for deactivating the alarm as opposed to the double switch before?

Cheers

Lee


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

This is definitely how mine was wired and I can confirm it all functions now.

However I did need to swap my alarm button as the double one didn't work, but since the pins you have highlighted are all for this button, maybe I have made a mistake. I'll check!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

RG500 said:


> on another audi forum is states that the pin for the above on the face lift 32 pin connector are
> 
> 10 =Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
> 4 =Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring)
> ...


There are actually 3 sets of pinouts for the door module, pins 4, 5 10 and 27 were the only pins that varied. They are:

'Up to May 2007' - my guide starts from here[/*]
'From June 2007' - for the majority of the pins this is the latest change, so most the pins in the guide use these[/*]
'From June 2010' - the only differences here are the 4 pre-facelift pins for the alarm buttons (4, 5 10 and 27) that you have discovered. My guide did use these as my modules were dated Dec 2010[/*]

Maybe that is why I had trouble with the alarm buttons, and I should have just used the 'From June 2007'. Maybe you could give it a go and see if your original 2 button alarm switch works?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Just to be clear for these alarm button pins


```
Up to May 2007 --- From June 2007 --- From June 2010
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Switch for alarm system off button (Red/purple)         13                 10                 27
Status LED for interior monitoring button (Red/yellow)  16                 4                  5
Status LED for alarm system off button (Blue/white)     17                 5                  4
Switch for interior monitoring button (Blue)            30                 27                 10
```


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## RG500 (Sep 27, 2018)

Hi MT-V6 thank you for the in-depth reply. I have not started the mod yet and I have already purchased as single button the same as yours.

It's all on hold as my convertible hood has decided to stop working now - so this has now taken priority


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Having now got all the parts for this, I thought I'd give it a go today, swapping the mirrors over. Both screws inside rounded off with barely any force on them, and now my drill has died (battery) half way through drilling the head off. Can things get any worse!! 

Anyone have any horror stories trying to remove wing mirrors?! :roll:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Maybe this helps...???






















...and this one (start at time-stamp 4:20) -


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Well, thanks SJP, but I really wish that my screw came out as easily as that did. It rounded off with barely any pressure on it so I've had to start drilling it out. :x


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I'm after some black mirror covers but having replaced my passenger mirror repeater mine rounded off also. So When I swap out to black mirror covers I will be drilling them out also.

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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I have drilled the head off of one side, but the mirror still won't twist off.

This is going to be a pain, and involve lots of swearing [smiley=argue.gif]


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Old post on the same topic, specifically how to deal with the screw -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1756282

I think even the workshop manual index has a reference to the correct swear words. :lol:


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Sounds all too familiar. I can't remember if you said you have a complete mirror or not? As if you have, at least if you damage the threaded part you have a replacement?

I like the solution above regarding drilling out the hole so a larger torx head can be used. Maybe we could get custom stainless steel screws from somewhere if we made a group order, if anyone knows a place that will do that?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Sounds all too familiar. I can't remember if you said you have a complete mirror or not? As if you have, at least if you damage the threaded part you have a replacement?
> 
> I like the solution above regarding drilling out the hole so a larger torx head can be used. Maybe we could get custom stainless steel screws from somewhere if we made a group order, if anyone knows a place that will do that?


The only part I don't have is the inner threaded part. But to be honest I just want to get it off, so right now I'm fully prepared to butcher it and worry about fixing it after!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Check out workshop manual _Exterior Workshop Manual - D3E8006F7B3_ (it's in the KB with all the others) -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Back to the mirror modules - My ebay guy sold 801F & 802F with the power fold mirrors - I don't appear to have seen these mentioned before - do we think they are compatible?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I don't see F either in the VCDS label file?

Might need to google it and see if you can come across any scans posted on here or other forums


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

So - I have changed over the mirror guts on both sides. WHAT A BALL ACHE! I forgot that though I've looked after the car it's still 13 years old. Neither of the soft bolts would budge even after marinading in easing oil for 2 days. The hex hole in the bolt is soft enough to strip but the bolt was too hard to effectively drill - so had to cut round the soft alloy with a burr - there goes my idea of selling on afterwards! Luckily I had the bases & re-tapped their screws for an M6 stainless hex bolt. I've not over drilled the outermost of the concentric rings as as per the picture above - it looked to weaken the already soft alloy. The bolts do not require any clearance for the mirrors to rotate.

Next the modules. RG500 - are you still about (will PM) as you have a roadster how did you get on with the window modules - I was under the impression you needed the 8J7 prefix to ge the windows to drop & the roof to work? 
Currently I still have my 801 * 802 C modules as with the F the roof would not open. I've spotted some 8J7 N modules which should work -

PS the dip on reverse is great but can't have this and the roof working till the new modules arrive :?


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## Mateov (Mar 19, 2020)

Hello,

Im asking about preface door modules, so summing up "D" is a preface module right? So if I want to retrofit folding mirrors all I want to do is change door trim which handle folding icon, buy wing mirrors with minimum 8pins, and door modules with "D". Anyone can confirm that is preface module and it handles folding mirrors?

So my question is also do I have to install some extra wires to window trim in door card panel? Or all I have to do is install 2 extra wires in door module connector , then code it and it will work?

Will be thankful for help!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yes as far as I know D modules are prefacelift and shouldn't need wiring changes. Pretty hard to come by though... The mirrors need blue and pink wires specifically. The mirrors should cover with wiring which is just a case of plugging it in, one you have removed the existing wires and routed the new (this is the tricky bit)


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## Quattro99 (Apr 30, 2019)

Hi some help from the experts is needed here!

Not being a electronics buff, I've read this post a dozen times over the last year and searched other feeds/forums but can't find if modules other than "D" and "H" work for the retrofit. Getting hold of a pair at a reasonable price is harder to find than rocking horse poop!

I know MT-V6 stated,
"I think that 'D' revisions (prefacelift module) and 'E', 'G', 'H' and 'J' revisions (all facelift modules) are compatible according to the VCDS labels file, but check first."

I don't know how to check, has anyone managed to get different modules to work?
I have "E" and now a pair of "J" modules, but don't know if they can be adapted.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yes it does seem to be difficult to get hold of H modules, I must have been very lucky with my timing when I bought mine

I have recently helped a member on here with J modules, who took the gamble based on the vcds labels. However, although they do save the coding, they did not operate the folding mirror when I tried the driver's module on my car. They are a 'MIN' module and I think this must be the distinction. Only 'D' and 'H' are listed as 'MAX' and I think these are the only two that support the folding

H are definitely wired as facelift (some pin swaps on the 32 and 20 pin connectors if you have a prefacelift), while it looks like D are prefacelift


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## Quattro99 (Apr 30, 2019)

Ah thanks MT-V6,

So I guess anything other than D or H won't work, I guess I'll have to keep looking! :?

I managed to find a pair 'D's abroad (no pun intended), but they won't send them unless I have a business with a EORI number, all down to Brexit apparently :x

Thanks for your help [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## lozzzzzer (Apr 23, 2021)

Hi

Told you I might have a question for you on the mirror retrofit... If I'm running the two wires for the mirror motor (pin 14 & 15) on the motor Blue & Brown cables which one goes to which pin? or it doesn't mater..

Thanks


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I don't have it written down, I'll have to see if I have any photos. Is this hypothetical or do you just have the mirrors without the loom?

It does matter as otherwise they will operate in reverse. Btw I think they are blue and pink wires from memory


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## lozzzzzer (Apr 23, 2021)

I purchased a retrofit mirror kit from prestigenemotors asked them if I needed anything other than this kit to fit it on my car and the answer was no "bloody sales men" well I figure I would give a go anyway.

So far from what I've worked out so far:-

* Wing mirror button just need the face lift to show the symbol for folding mirror (seem to be correct)
* Door module is correct and I can see it on my VDS "folding mirror option"
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels:. 1K0-959-702-MIN3.clb
Part No SW: 8J7 959 802 E HW: 8J7 959 802 E
Component: Tuer-SG H02 0060 
Coding: 0000637
Shop #: WSC 01236 758 00200
VCID: 3FDB4AE04B7E1083B69-806A
* I just need to run the two cable for the motors and connect them to the right pins 14 &15 my motor cable colour are Brown and Blue so I might just need to test them and switch them if they don't go the right direction 

Thanks again for your help.

https://www.prestigemotorservices.co.uk ... 71109.html


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yes that lot is weirdly missing the actual mirror knob? And I don't believe your door modules will be compatible but can always try them first to be sure. They are MIN3 and I believe from my experience only MAX3 will work, even if your module appears to show the coding

D or H modules are MAX3 but are hard to get hold of


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I completed yesterday the power folding mirrors retrofit.

I used "D" modules on both sides as my "E" did not work. "E" modules do not have the pins to power the folding.

I also flashed EEPROM of the "D" modules using OBD11 in order to fold the mirrors with the key.

Some more info:
I started the retrofit from the passenger side. 
So I installed the D module and the mirror on the passenger door first. 
I also have changed the mirror knob to control the folding/unfolding.

At that time my drivers door still had the E module. Before changing it with D module, I flashed the E module to fold using the key. And it worked. I was able to fold only the passengers mirror using the key having flashed the drivers E module.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good work


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

For anybody interested as I did the power folding mirrors on a LHD TT. 
Part numbers for the mirror knob are: 
4H0 959 565 4PK | 46€
8J1 959 527A 6PS | 44€
8J0 919 175B | 11€

Bought them from Audi.


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Hi,
I've been following many threads on the Forum and managed to make many upgrades as a result - now looking to add folding mirrors.
I have a MY10 TT 2.0 TFSI. 
Having been lucky to find all the components listed in MT-V6 list at the top of this thread have a quick question regarding coding.
The current modules fitted are J with H in the pack that will be fitted, I've already changed the door card switch which works nicely with the non-folding mirrors.
My question is; once I've swapped out the looms, modules and motors and recoded both doors to 0004096, is there anything else (wiring perhaps) that needs to be moved/adjusted for the indicators/windows or is it all taken care of by the recoding.
Any help or guidance really appreciated.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I think that’s all you have to do. 

If you want to make them fold using your key fob, then you need more coding either with Vag Can Pro or Obdeleven.


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Thanks lukeexecute, that's what I was hoping for!

Earlier this year, when I changed the door mirror indicators the driver's mirror came away from the car pretty easily (did have to drill out the holding screws first though), however, after removing all of the necessary screws on the passenger side - no matter how much pressure I put on the mirror it would not come away from the base on the door......doh! 

I did manage to get the replacement indicator into the mirror casing but it was a real pain with the motor in the way.

Just wondering if anybody else might have had a similar experience and how it was overcome, as I'll need to get the mirror off to replace the motor.

Also, (assuming I can get the passenger side mirror off), I'll settle for the folding option via the door card switch initially and maybe consider the key fob option later.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

What are you going to change? 
The metal part holding the motor? Or you have purchased a whole mirror assembly?

In either case, you have to remove the whole mirror in order to swap out the loom. For the loom you have to remove the speaker also. The most difficult part is to swap out the loom. 

Keep track of the routing of the old loom and put the new one correctly. 

To remove the mirror watch this video: 




To remove the motor, after you remove the center T10 torx, watch this video


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Thanks lukeexecute - changing everything including the loom. Had a trial run already on the driver's door. 

You're right, the loom routing is key - I tied a cord to the end of the loom being removed and used it to guide the potential replacement with blind assistance with my hand through the speaker cut out.

First thing I checked was that everything was clear of the window mechanism and that it raised and lowered without catching anything.

That was as far as I got as I ran out of time......doh!

Ta also for the vids, actually the first one is one (of many) that I've watched on youtube.

This doesn't feel like a too difficult job, just need to set aside enough time and a dry day to complete - and of course, be able to manipulate the passenger side mirror off. 
(I can remove the soft screw and the T20 flat head screw underneath the mirror quite easily - but when turning the whole mirror to remove, no matter how hard I push it around, just can't get it to separate from the base. The driver's side is a doddle and comes away from the car without any issues)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Note also with the wire routing that there are a couple of clips holding it to the inside of the door

Also, the torx screw underneath doesn't hold the mirror to the base, so leaving that attached might give you more leverage. Some penetrating oil might help too

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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Thanks MT-V6 - will try it with the torx screw left in position which might make it easier to lift off when fully extended backwards. 

Sound advice - nice one


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 - do you have any thoughts on my earlier coding question please? (#40)


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

Are you trying to separate it with the mirror completely removed or while installed on the car?


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Once the mirror housing is detachable, I'll need to unscrew and separate the motor to enable the wiring to be disconnected and passed through both the motor and mirror housing.

But, to answer - I'm trying to remove the mirror housing intact, otherwise all the components are loose and I don't think it will be do-able.

Thanks for your help


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Misteree said:


> MT-V6 - do you have any thoughts on my earlier coding question please? (#40)


Your H modules are the same as mine. Yes you are right, just ADD the 4096, don't change the coding to that directly. The vcds coding helper will show you that anyway

If your new mirrors have the looms, it's just a straight swap and no repinning is needed

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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Brill - thanks for the info - I was working on the assumption that the 0004733 is replaced by 0004096 - as below







(I believe that only 7 digits can be used)


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> Your H modules are the same as mine. Yes you are right, just ADD the 4096, don't change the coding to that directly. The vcds coding helper will show you that anyway
> 
> If your new mirrors have the looms, it's just a straight swap and no repinning is needed
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Morning MT-V6 - I have a question for you, if I may please?
The modules I have are 801H / 802H - I'm curious which one you have fitted to the driver's side.
On your listing you show 801H as being for the driver's side but when I tried this it only worked with the passenger switch, also when 'googling' the part number it's indicated as being 'left'.
I wondered if you have any thoughts.
My existing are 801J in the driver's door which would (logically) lead me to think that the 801H is its replacement.....
Thanks again, in advance


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

It happened to me also, when I first installed my module "D" on drivers side. 
When you code it correctly it will work as it should.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

lukeexecute said:


> It happened to me also, when I first installed my module "D" on drivers side.
> When you code it correctly it will work as it should.


Before installing the new one 401H, log the "Coding" of your old one "401J". 
Then use the coding from 401J, add +4096 and use this number to code "401H".


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

misTTeree said:


> Brill - thanks for the info - I was working on the assumption that the 0004733 is replaced by 0004096 - as below
> View attachment 476851
> (I believe that only 7 digits can be used)


Literally + the numbers together (not adding digits to the end)

Eg your current coding of 4733 equals:
4096+512+64+32+16+8+4+1

Which is actually wrong (?). Is this your original coding, or the coding the new module came with (I suspect)? 

What is the coding of your original modules?

Luke is right regarding the rest, don't worry about it until the coding is done. You shouldn't need to repin them since your J modules are on your MY2010 car so that is facelift also

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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

As for left and rights, put the 801 on the same side, and 802 on the other. The Audi references to left and right as sometimes confusing as they relate to a LHD car

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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> Literally + the numbers together (not adding digits to the end)
> 
> Eg your current coding of 4733 equals:
> 4096+512+64+32+16+8+4+1
> ...


Thanks - I'm just heading out but will double check the coding (drivers door) when I get back - the car is back to the original spec with the J modules back in as there was a small problem with the mirror motor (which has been sorted this morning). I'm pretty sure that the 4733 is the coding for the J (original) module, but will be able to confirm later.

Thanks very much for your help so far - much appreciated.


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

4733 is the coding of 801H as per your pic of VCDS above.


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

Thanks lukeexecute, below are the codes with the J modules fitted (as it is now - non folding). 
MT-V6's comments (especially how the 4733 was arrived at) improved my understanding of how the coding is applied.
EG: in the 801J pic below, the coding notice indicates to add 4096 for folding mirrors - this (potentially) would indicate to me that 4096 needs to be added to 4733 making the highlighted figure replacement - 0008829. With the same added to 628 on the passenger side...
Am I reading this right?
Everything is working as it should with the current coding.
Thanks again to you both for your phenomenal input - it's really appreciated


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## lukeexecute (Apr 3, 2021)

I am a little confused. 
Do the mirrors work correctly now? Do they also fold?

Having coding 4733 to 801J seems to me that somebody has already added 4096, so the initial value would be 4733-4096=637

637 sums up
512+64+32+16+8+4+1
Do you have this kind of equipment?

If you put the H modules on and code:
801H to 0004733
802H to 0004724

does everything work?


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

lukeexecute said:


> I am a little confused.
> Do the mirrors work correctly now? Do they also fold?
> 
> Having coding 4733 to 801J seems to me that somebody has already added 4096, so the initial value would be 4733-4096=637
> ...


The current fitted J modules don't fold, the 2 pics show the codes taken earlier today.

To give you a bit of history around this; I was lucky enough to pick up the full folding mirror set on ebay and tried fitting the driver's side first. 
The 801H module, wiring loom and mirror motor all fitted quite easily (obviously the loom was the most demanding ). When I went to code (driver's side only) the 4733 was showing(I thought this the J module code that needed adjusting), I read that 0004096 needed to be added but wasn't too sure how and just replaced 4733 with 4096.

With hindsight, I think that the coding showing as 4733 (MT-V6 pointed out earlier) was probably related to the newly installed 801H module and by me adjusting to 4096 probably meant that I'd disabled indicators & windows (I'm not sure what the 512+64+32+16+8+4+1 would activate). The original J module coding was more than likely 637 before I started all of this, as you've pointed out.

Having said all of that, the driver's mirror motor folded but wouldn't allow the actual mirror to reposition - it was stuck solid. It's been sent back to the ebay seller who's sorted it and sending it back.

So this is how I think I now understand this coding to work - 0004733 on the driver's side, with the passenger's side to be coded to 4724 (628 + 4096).

All I need to do now, is get the passenger side mirror housing off the car  (once I get the driver's side mirror motor back)

Hopefully, this is clear enough to understand - looking back, the coding bit now looks much easier (assuming I've got the above figures correct) but I wouldn't have got to this point without both your help MT-V6 & lukeexecute -- Thank you🍺 🍺(I owe you both a beer!)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

You are still a little mixed up regarding the coding  you need to adapt the H module coding to match your car. The easiest way is to get the coding from your old J module and + 4096 to it. Do you have a scan of the car from the past? Or else just plug it back in to get it

Door coding is pretty simple and most TTs have largely the same so we can work it out if you are unable to get it from the J module

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> You are still a little mixed up regarding the coding
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks - the two pics in #59 were captured earlier today with the J modules in the car (as can be seen in the pics which show 801J & 802J)
Unfortunately, I don't have a previous scan and this afternoon, did just plug in VCDS which came up with the earlier pics!
The only thing relating to folding mirrors fitted to the car at the moment is the switch in the driver's door card.
Despite the 4733 coding showing, everything works as it should - hoping to fit both H modules, looms and mirror motors on Saturday (weather dependent).
Does 637 look/sound right for the driver's door code with the J module - given that the passenger's is showing 628
(puddle lights and the red light on the lock side of the door fitted)


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> You are still a little mixed up regarding the coding  you need to adapt the H module coding to match your car. The easiest way is to get the coding from your old J module and + 4096 to it. Do you have a scan of the car from the past? Or else just plug it back in to get it
> 
> Door coding is pretty simple and most TTs have largely the same so we can work it out if you are unable to get it from the J module
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Hi MT-V6 - just had another thought - from 512+64+32+16+8+4+1 is it possible to figure out what would be coded to the door?
Cheers


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yep, from those numbers, compare them with the helper bubble in VCDS as shown if your screenshots

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> Yep, from those numbers, compare them with the helper bubble in VCDS as shown if your screenshots
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Cheers - will have a look tomorrow.


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

lukeexecute said:


> I am a little confused.
> Do the mirrors work correctly now? Do they also fold?
> 
> Having coding 4733 to 801J seems to me that somebody has already added 4096, so the initial value would be 4733-4096=637
> ...


Just wanted to say thanks again - all fitted and working - drivers side code - 4733 / passenger side - 4724.
Might just have to investigate fold/unfold on lock/unlocking pretty soon.......
Cheers


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Glad you got it working. Might want to double check the coding though as there should only be 1 different between the two sides (driver side is +1 due to the boot button)


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## misTTeree (Jul 19, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> Glad you got it working. Might want to double check the coding though as there should only be 1 different between the two sides (driver side is +1 due to the boot button)


Thanks, will do


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