# 2010 Coupe Brake Pads & Discs



## adders (May 19, 2016)

Hi All,

First post...

I recently bought a 2010 MK2 TT Coupe and the brakes are rubbing and squeaking a little so I'd like to look at replacing them.

I've done a few searches on this forum, there are so many threads with the mention of brakes but usually for different models to mine.
Can someone point me in the right direction (with links if possible) of recommended discs and pads to purchase?
I wouldn't mind a small upgrade if I decided to go down the after market route, but don't want to lose any performance from the stock ones I currently have.

Thanks in advance!

Ad


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

The front brakes of TTs are prone to squeaking when applied and it is an annoyance rather than a problem. The brakes however should not rub (bind). Before spending any money check that the pad and discs are within wear limits and, if they are, carefully fully clean with brake cleaner. To do a proper cleaning job the callipers should be removed from the carriers and the pads taken out. Be sure to put the pads back in the positions they came from.


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

Front discs? Rear discs?

Quattro or not? What model TT


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

qooqiiu said:


> Front discs? Rear discs?
> 
> Quattro or not? What model TT


Wanted to look at both front and rears

2.0 TFSI FWD


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

tttony said:


> The front brakes of TTs are prone to squeaking when applied and it is an annoyance rather than a problem. The brakes however should not rub (bind). Before spending any money check that the pad and discs are within wear limits and, if they are, carefully fully clean with brake cleaner. To do a proper cleaning job the callipers should be removed from the carriers and the pads taken out. Be sure to put the pads back in the positions they came from.


Superb, thanks Tony.
Don't suppose you know if there's a guide to cleaning TT brakes anywhere do you?


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## WoRkZ (Sep 19, 2015)

Here you go: 




If you are doing this for the first time, take your time undoing the bolts. Spray some WD-40 on the bolts and let sit for a while before trying to undo them. Trust me, you do not want to snap a bolt inside a caliper. Also, when putting the pads back in, use brake pads grease to limit vibration/noise. :wink:


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

WoRkZ said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Superb, thanks WoRkz, much appreciated.
I've also seen that KwikFit are doing a free brake test with no obligation so I think I'll make the most out of this before deciding whether to put my hand in my pocket! - https://www.kwik-fit.com/brakes/free-brake-check


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Don't go anywhere near free offerings from Kwikfit. What ever they need to shift, they'll sell it to you.

Audi brakes usually last quite long and Audi mechanics are lazy. This means that the brake assembly is hardly ever taken apart, cleaned and lubricated on the moving points. So that is exactly what you need to do/get done, if all is within the wear limit. Clean the surfaces, ensure the pistons are moving freely, lube the contact points between pads and callipers and the sliding pins. Once that is all done, flush the brake fluid with special low viscosity fluid. And your brakes will be fine once more.

Mine still has its factory brakes (pads and rotors) and is approaching its 10th birthday. Hadn't I taken apart the brakes a few times, it would all be seized by now.


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

TT-driver said:


> Don't go anywhere near free offerings from Kwikfit. What ever they need to shift, they'll sell it to you.
> 
> Audi brakes usually last quite long and Audi mechanics are lazy. This means that the brake assembly is hardly ever taken apart, cleaned and lubricated on the moving points. So that is exactly what you need to do/get done, if all is within the wear limit. Clean the surfaces, ensure the pistons are moving freely, lube the contact points between pads and callipers and the sliding pins. Once that is all done, flush the brake fluid with special low viscosity fluid. And your brakes will be fine once more.
> 
> Mine still has its factory brakes (pads and rotors) and is approaching its 10th birthday. Hadn't I taken apart the brakes a few times, it would all be seized by now.


Thanks TT-driver, I'll steer clear of KwikFit "freebies" then.

I've already ordered a couple of jack stands and some red calliper paint and will be following the guide on the knowledge base to get them done soon. I'll follow your advice to take the brakes apart at the same time and give them a good clean.

I checked them again today and did notice something which seemed a bit odd - the front pads don't seem to contact the discs very much, they almost seem slightly angled so that only the top part of the pad is touching the disc and then there's quite a bit of a gap. Can anyone post a picture of their front pads and how they contact their discs please so I can compare? 
I'm happy to buy some new front pads and fit them if this is what the problem is likely to be.

Cheers again all, great community you have here!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

the friction material of the pads should have a bit of an angle at the top and the bottom as you can see here:










It helps preventing squealing noises.

Other than that, the pads should touch all of the rotor surface area, from hub to rim. So after braking a few times, the rotors should be shiny and free of rust.

Could you post a picture of what you think is wrong?


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

TT-driver said:


> Could you post a picture of what you think is wrong?


Sure here you go... just looks like there's not much of the pad in contact with the disc but could be the bevelling on the pad itself that you mentioned?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Looks like the pad is touching all of the rotor near where the piston is, otherwise your rotors wouldn't be so shiny.

I think a mechanic has manually removed some friction material (bevelling) so the brakes squeal less during braking. The callipers were painted too, normally that spring (which is a pain to put back) is stainless steel shiny.

To me it all looks mostly OK. Only the rotor on the top picture could have some less scoring. But nothing to worry about.

As long as the inner pads have the same or more friction material, there is no real need for replacing the pads yet. I believe the manuals usually say: replace when 2mm or less.


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

So I'm going to take my brakes apart, (remove calipers, pads and rotors) give them all a good clean, check for any obvious problems, put them all back together again and paint my calipers red at the same time...

As far as I can tell I will need to following tools to complete this, can anyone confirm this is all that's required please, just for removal and replacement of calipers and rotors?

Front Brakes=
Brake caliper bolts = 7mm hex
Brake caliper carrier bolts = 21mm socket
Rotor bolts = t30 torx
Flat head screw driver to lever caliper off

Back brakes=
Brake caliper bolts = 15mm + 13mm spanner
Brake caliper carrier bolts = 21mm socket
Rotor bolts = t30 torx
Flat head screw driver to lever caliper off

Thanks


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

I might try and do a how to on removing and cleaning brakes and rotors too... I couldn't find one for this in the knowledge base


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

You may need an M14 triple spline bit to remove the rear caliper carrier. You may be able to remove the disc with it in place as yours is front wheel drive. The rear caliper slider bolts are technically a one time use only. New pads come with new bolts with thread lock pre treatment. Pop a bit of blue thread lock on them if your re using them. 35NM torque


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

And a wind back tool for the rears but you probably know that already.


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## adders (May 19, 2016)

qooqiiu said:


> And a wind back tool for the rears but you probably know that already.


Yep thanks, a wind back tool arrived today from Amazon. I thought it's required for the fronts as well?


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## qooqiiu (Oct 12, 2007)

A simple G clamp will do the fronts. Or a big pair of grips


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

adders said:


> qooqiiu said:
> 
> 
> > And a wind back tool for the rears but you probably know that already.
> ...


The wind back is just for the self-adjusting hand brake mechanism, so normally just the rears


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