# FrankensTTein 2.0 > 3.6: Serviced the rear brakes



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: Hey all.

Been here a while and have dabbled in the Mk1 side of things and recently acquired the most recent project car(s). You will see why the title is called so.

*TABLE OF CONTENTS*

FWD 2.0L BWA to 3.6L VR6 BWS conversion
ECU pinout
Floorpan information
Engine bay fusebox labelling
Engine bay large fuses labelling
Electrics discussion - ECU, IMMO, CECM/BCM
- CANbus malfunction = car death (VIDEO)
Exhaust comparisons 2.0 vs 3.6
- Exhaust experiment - no rear mufflers (VIDEO)
Fuel tank mount points (AWD), AWD fuel tank wiring info
- Coding for AWD fuel tank (VIDEO)
- Fuelling issues and remediation
Haldex wiring loom info
Manual conversion parts
Propshaft brackets part number (requirement for AWD conversion)
- Propshaft tunnel material and measurements info
- Propshaft removal & bushing / guibo part numbers
- Propshaft brackets welded in pics
- Propshaft bolted in pics
Servicing VR6 engine (applicable for 3.2 and 3.6)
VR6 blue coilpack covers (applicable for 3.2 and 3.6) (VIDEO)
2.0 BWA removal pics
3.6 BWS installed!
Swap from 2.0 to 3.6 1/3 (VIDEO)
Swap from 2.0 to 3.6 2/3 (VIDEO)
Swap from 2.0 to 3.6 3/3 (VIDEO)

DRIVETRAIN AND HANDLING
ABS module removal and installation (VIDEO)
ABS coding error rectified (VIDEO)
Brakes, springs & swaybars comparison - FWD vs AWD vs Passat R36
KW v3's coilovers installation w/suspension torque values
Mechtronic DSG issues and swap (VIDEO)
Rear subframe w/rear differential and suspenion assembly removal (VIDEO)
Rear subframe full assembly installation (VIDEO)
Rear trailing arm bush upgrade to polybush (VIDEO)
Steering rack upgrade gen2 to gen3 info and pics
SuperPro 26mm rear sway bar upgrade
Suspension components comparison
17Z brakes for Audi TT Mk2 pics, more pics
17Z Brembo brakes rebuild (VIDEO)
17Z Brembo brake upgrade and Forza two piece rotors installed (VIDEO)
17Z Brembo brake upgrade - master cylinder swab & VCDS brake bleeding guide (VIDEO)

EXTERIOR/BODY MODIFICATIONS
AFS Headlights info (upgrade from halogen to bi-xenon LED cornering lights)
Headlight upgrade (VIDEO)
AFS cornering lights output test (VIDEO)
AFS sub CANbus wiring discussion
AFS conversion parts list
Alarm module upgrade - need to scroll down the post (VIDEO)
Badges logo placement (rear)
Bumpers removal (rear w/PDC wiring)
Front bumper installation (VIDEO)
Carbon fibre front lip pics
Centre brake light removal and upgrade guide (VIDEO)
Doors - complete removal and installation (VIDEO)
Headlight level sensors upgrade w/wiring info 
- Rear level sensors info
- Rear arm rivets for level sensors
- Cross compatibility rear level sensor info + basic settings
Number plate lights upgrade to LED units
Parking sensors (PDC) information
- Parking sensors wiring info (rear)
- Parking sensors wiring (front)
- Front PDC sensors installation into front bumper pics
Side skirts upgrade and parts
Side skirts removal and installation (VIDEO)
TTRS wheel arch brake vents upgrade (VIDEO)
Undertray fittings (VIDEO)
Wind whistle issues and best fix guide (VIDEO)
Wheels upgrade - Neuspeeds vs BBS two piece (VIDEO)

INTERIOR MODIFICATIONS
Door seals - replacing torn and damaged seals guide (VIDEO)
Fire extinguisher install - Kap Industries (VIDEO)
Glovebox swap (due to broken hinges)
Gear shifter comparison, gear shifter assembly swap (VIDEO)
Headlight switch wiring diagram
High beam assist (HBA) rear view mirror upgrade (VIDEO)
Homelink interior light upgrade & modification (VIDEO)
Interior boot lid rim removal guide
Puddle light "quattro" projector LEDs install guide (VIDEO)
R8 slotted, LED ambient handles upgrade (VIDEO)
Seats swap - manual seats w/electric lumbar to fully electric
Soundpipe installation and review - gen1 Soundaktor (VIDEO)

IN CAR ENTERTAINMENT, CONVENIENCES
Airbag reset, boost/oil temp/lap timer, needle sweep, cluster LED configuration, AFS lights demo mode
Alpine Halo9 9" head unit (VIDEO)
Time alignment settings
Amps and speakers
- Clarion 4 channel amp install - hooking into factory plug's power
- Adding third 4" speaker to non-Bose amplified system
- Rainbow German Audio 3-way speakers: 8" woofer, 4" mid, 1" tweeter
- Modifying OEM speaker housings for Rainbow woofers and mids
- JL monoblock subwoofer amp install
- MTX slimline subwoofer pics
Bluetooth module for OEM stereo upgrade (VIDEO)
High Beam Assist (HBA) rear view mirror pics and wiring
Instrument cluster mods
TT Mk2 8J Instrument cluster pinout information (for ColourMFA)
ColourMFA for Audi TT Mk2 instrument cluster test (VIDEO)
Cluster modifications for ColourMFA
ColourMFA installed in TT 8J cluster test (VIDEO)
ColourMFA boost gauge test 1, boost gauge test 2 (VIDEO)
ColourMFA installation overview in Audi TT 8J 1/2 (VIDEO)
ColourMFA installation overview in Audi TT 8J 2/2 (VIDEO)
ColourMFA in Audi TT Mk2 (long) Review (VIDEO)
ColourMFA debug features: PDC OPS display, climatronic, launch control (VIDEO)
Instrument cluster swap: red to white LEDs (VIDEO), IMMO OFF (VIDEO)
Red instrument cluster w/ needle sweep + lap time (VIDEO)
White LED broken backlights repair, detailed pictures
Wireless charger pad installation + double USB 3.0 ports (quick charge)


This was the first car to have secured. Running perfectly but with a little too much damage for a cost effective repair.

















So luckily another happened to pop up, albeit a little higher mileage, but for a relatively good price.

Now the build thread, which I wish to document here (as the Australian forums are abysmal), is planned out to go something like this
- swap out FWD drive train for the S-Lines' Quattro (gen4) and 10mm lower suspension
• brakes and 19" wheels
- swap out the rest of the trims that are up-specced from the S-line such as
• red FIS to updated facelift cluster
• power seats
• steering wheel
• exterior trim (these are what I can think of straight up but pretty sure there's more)

Once all that is fine and dandy (yes I know you're already thinking should just buy one in Quattro spec! But that's not the point here! And the price was too good) - then the focus turns getting this in and running.

So yes, this is a little crazy in that it'll be a full conversion but it'll keep me busy, I feel like it'll be the best way for me to learn this platform that I'm relatively new to (although not that much of a stranger to the 8L/8N platform), and put the 3.6 into a chassis that a little more agile than a Passat.

From the content I've stumbled across in this group I should have most of what I'll need to make this happen. The latter part of the build, there's not so much info, but hey we all need to start somewhere right?

*JULY CORONA SPECIAL UPDATE:* The R36 engine swap IS complete and running - very well i might add! If you've read this far you deserve to skip to the juicy part by clicking here. Audi TT 3.6 swap link


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## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

Good luck


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Danny1 said:


> Good luck


Thanks - might need to call out for some info from time to time but looks like there's some great support in here!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I've thought before that it would be a good project to put the 3.6 in the TT. I'll be interested to see how you get on


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I've thought before that it would be a good project to put the 3.6 in the TT. I'll be interested to see how you get on


It is definitely possible - the hardware side of things will be the easy part as the 3.6/3.2 are virtually the same size on the outside. It's been done before in America, and this one is a manual conversion too (which is my end goal - sorry DSG fans!)









And i have been working on the pin outs between all the different cars so when the time comes i know where to look when looking for why things don't work. I can upload this once it's tidied up.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

First delete to definitely do!!!










I was wondering what that strange noise was when driving the 3.2 for the first time. Sounds TOO fake to me.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I imagined they would we physically similar

Do you have a link for that US one?

The TT looks nicer with the aluminium engine cover, would be good if you could retain that somehow?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

No links on that red one sorry. Stumbled across them on Facebook and not much info was given hence the homework.

Also the 3.6 in all it's forms only come in the plastic cam cover... so sad

With the only difference in the inlet manifold which is 2 piece vs 1 piece


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The donor engine. Unwrapping it like a present haha


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The oil filler cap is on the other side of the engine to the 3.2, strange


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> The oil filler cap is on the other side of the engine to the 3.2, strange


Yeah there have been some upgrades on the exterior of the motor - there are no aluminium coolant pipes or thermostat housings yet available for 3.6.

The 2 piece inlet manifold is the best so you can gain access to the cam cover without having to remove the front of the car.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Are the quattro and non-quattro body shells any different in terms of rear end running gear mounting points?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is where i'm pretty sure there is one universal body.

Looking at all the different pics online and part numbers - there is one floor, and one rear end. Whereas earlier models or hatchbacks of the same gen have obvious different depths in boot height.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

And comparison of a 2.0 FWD vs. 2.5 AWD


















No difference in depth. How ever mounting points under the vehicle might be a different story...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Both TT's cleaned and project FrankenTTein almost ready for the green light!









It's amazing what a clean can do...









Cover off and gave under there a blast with compressed air and a wipe down









The final product ... which will be replaced


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Just a few more shots before things start getting a bit more involved!




























But we made it and it was time for a wash before having a well deserved rest.



















Currently getting tools together to help with swapping electronics.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have to get everything working so i can get registration and plates for the car.



















Relatively simple job with the hardest thing being to move the wheel arch liner enough to get to the motor.

This next job isn't important but i like the "fan" spray pattern that is on the older TT's and some VW's. These units are from an R36.


















They are a perfect fit (can you tell which one it is?) 









... however it looks like the electrical connector needs to be wired up as they weren't squirting anything (just a dribble) when activated. Something to work on.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Some background work before starting


















In my experience, being prepared (especially for such a "big" swap) is the best way to go. Knowing the above information and more importantly the below will be helpful in diagnosing when systems aren't working throughout the process.

Notice something? (file available on request)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Isn't the coolant pump for the V6 mechanically driven? I didn't think it ran with the engine off?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Isn't the coolant pump for the V6 mechanically driven? I didn't think it ran with the engine off?


Are you referring to J151?

That's the after-run pump - same thing on turbo cars that acts like a turbo timer. The pump runs to keep coolant circulating after ignition off. Secondary to the main water pump which is belt driven and the impeller is in the block.

After run is located to the left of the dipstick tube (when looking at the engine as if you're standing in front of it)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Cool, never knew it had that!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here you can see it nestled in between the ancillaries bracket and the dipstick tube (mk4 setup) -
The 8J pump is a smaller unit but in a similar spot.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Still in the planning stages and resource gathering for the 3.6 swap. Meantime there's a lot that i would like to transfer over from the newer car over to the regoe'd one.


























































Now to dispel some online arguments. There is NO DIFFERENCE in the floor pan between Quattro and FWD in the 8J platform. The space under there will be viable for adding the Haldex and rear diff. assembly without having to cut and weld like the 8N platform.


















































Back to retrofitting trims...


















































Starting the car up again and these errors stick!









But a quick drive made them go. Am assuming it was because the steering wheel was changed.

Next is to install electric front seats so will need to obtain wiring runs from the donor car and all associated fuses/modules.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

interesting read 8) top work


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

Thank you for sharing your progress, this is a great thread


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks guys! I'll keep sharing as I go along


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

When the car was stripped I noticed another fuse box in the rear.

Does anyone have info on what these are linked to?


















(Sorry I'm not sure why they're rotated sideways when in my phone album they're the right way around ...)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

See my posts in this thread https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9164761


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> See my posts in this thread https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9164761


Perfect thanks so much! Added to my resources

*edit* After checking it out it appears my fuses are upside down! LOL

it goes from 1 to 12 going down instead of starting 1 at the bottom  :lol:


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## motornoter (Jul 16, 2012)

Impressive work guys, looking forward to the next installment!


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

The electrics may prove to be the hardest part of the conversion. If it's not already your plan, I would swap over the whole of the V6 cars electrical system i.e. Complete loom, all modules, fuse boxes and instrument cluster.

I see that you intend to fit a facelift instrument cluster. That is not straightforward as others on here have found out. I would suggest that you get the car working with the original V6 cluster first.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

tttony said:


> The electrics may prove to be the hardest part of the conversion. If it's not already your plan, I would swap over the whole of the V6 cars electrical system i.e. Complete loom, all modules, fuse boxes and instrument cluster.
> 
> I see that you intend to fit a facelift instrument cluster. That is not straightforward as others on here have found out. I would suggest that you get the car working with the original V6 cluster first.


Yes that would be the ideal plan and my thoughts go...

First I will compare what is there and not there on the v6/2.0 when it comes to parts like the 
BCM - what are the difference in plugs, then in wiring at the plugs

CAN module - coding (already noted) and wiring
Interior fuses - already I know these are going to be different but will need to compare

ECU - I'm going to be taking the EEPROM coding from all 3 ECU's so if anything goes wrong I have original back ups plus I'll need to know this data for when matching the IMMO

IMMO - will be interrogated from the clusters. Again I need to know this for matching to the ECU so that keys, cluster and ecu all play nice with each other.

All in all MOST of the wiring will already be there with things like Quattro fuel lift pump, Haldex, rear parking sensors and electric seats being the biggest things that I can tell are different. I want to try and avoid having to swap the whole loom. I don't think that is necessary as the "base" is essentially the same and should be able to add these to the existing system. Which means lots of de-pinning. I will know more when I physically check the modules.

ENGINE - complete swap will be needed here (as you've seen in the excel spreadsheet) as the 3.2 wiring is going to be useless for the 3.6 and I will need to consider swapping in the engine fuse box from the 3.6. Plugs type are the same between the 2.0 and 3.6 and differs to the 3.2.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Fixing the broken glovebox.

Not sure how this happened but the previous owner managed to break the connection to the gas strut and also the other side's hinge.









First remove the six 8mm bolts
























Then all it needs is a gentle yank to release the unit.









Then just swap over the units and because I've got the part - I clicked on the broken glovebox's light into the space where it looks like it is a perfect fit.

















Taking note of the CAN Gateways - these are usually coded via VCDS and all I will need to do is count the wires to these modules to compare. If there are the same amount of wires all I'd need to do is a module swap. 

















And we're done. No need to unplug airbags as the plug for that is on the actual dash and no need to remove the dash end trim.









Next I think I'll swap the S-line shifter in which has a nice TT motif on it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

See the KB for wiring the footwell lights in, it's a nice mod

Also the new style S tronic knob isn't a direct swap though can be done. Might be interesting to try swapping over the whole shift mechanism?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> See the KB for wiring the footwell lights in, it's a nice mod
> 
> Also the new style S tronic knob isn't a direct swap though can be done. Might be interesting to try swapping over the whole shift mechanism?


Hey - so why wouldn't it be a direct swap?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

See this 




Only applies if you are swapping a side button knob to a front button one. Worth it though as looks a lot better, I plan to do mine at some point


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yes you are right!

A little bit of modification required... or i might swap the whole tower over?

















On another note - is there a way to bulk attach pictures?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Well... Lucky I caught this!!! This is the worst I've seen on _any_ of my cars. 

















New lease of life coming right up!

















As I will be retrofitting first and intend to pick up the final parts for the swap (which is a 1600km round trip) some preventative maintenance was scheduled in. Lucky!! Very lucky!!!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Cam cover gasket also changed. The old one came out rock hard 









I'm happy with the condition of the internals. Looks well serviced.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

And the final part to the long needed service - fuel pressure cam lobe & gasket




































and finally...

Reset


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I've gotta get the fuel out of the 3.2's tank to prepare for the fuel tank swap > rear drivetrain swap.

Does anyone have experience in how to siphon the fuel out? I'm thinking one of two options but not sure which will work best
- Hook up the return port off of the fuel filter into a jerry can - run the engine on idle
- power up the pump with some wires and take the feed line from engine bay off and replace with a fuel line to jerry can

For both options ignition will be on so I get a fuel gauge reading and i will stop the siphoning to leave enough to shift the car in and out the garage.

Anyone done this before and will it work OK with this type of fuel pump/ fuel control module on the 3.2?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ok so after looking and thinking about the engine setup a little bit more - i didn't need to make it as complicated as i had posted! Super easy and it is surprising how quickly the 20L jerry can was able to be filled.



















Then i jumped the relay





And now thinking ahead - I want to fit the electric front seats along with sussing out the main feeds to engine bay fuse box.



















So it'll be relatively "simple" in that i just have to follow where that extra +ve wire joins up to... where it joins will be the interesting part!

Then the main wires going to the engine bay fuses - just one major difference here.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

For the seats I believe (and it looks like it in your photos) the main difference is the gauge wiring that is used, as full electric is a lot thicker. Be interesting to see if they go to different places though!

Full electric should go to a 30A fuse in the holder behind the driver knee panel

Not sure about partially electric. Could you post a photo of the engine fuse box of the car with the partial electric seats as I believe there might be a 10A fuse there


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> For the seats I believe (and it looks like it in your photos) the main difference is the gauge wiring that is used, as full electric is a lot thicker. Be interesting to see if they go to different places though!
> 
> Full electric should go to a 30A fuse in the holder behind the driver knee panel
> 
> Not sure about partially electric. Could you post a photo of the engine fuse box of the car with the partial electric seats as I believe there might be a 10A fuse there


Yes I see what you mean where the thicker one is. If the run is that short it should be relatively quick!

Pic of the labelled fuses are in the engine compartment are an earlier post  I've made these to refer back to and already they've been so so useful!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

It looks like they do go to different places then, as the 2.0 has the 10A fuse whereas the 3.2 doesn't. There should be a 30A fuse in that case, so you will need to do some wiring 

I have an incomplete guide here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1900091 which I plan to add more details to at some point


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> It looks like they do go to different places then, as the 2.0 has the 10A fuse whereas the 3.2 doesn't. There should be a 30A fuse in that case, so you will need to do some wiring
> 
> I have an incomplete guide here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1900091 which I plan to add more details to at some point


Great. I'll do my best to help you along with my findings


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Rightio so the S-Line fully electric seats have been swapped in. With an interesting thought that came to me after removing the passenger fully electric seat and halfway through removing the 2nd seat (non fully electric).




























I wanted to see what was under there... there's thick foam and a black box



















Both PAX seats out and making a comparison - pin outs exactly the same.










Now i was thinking "do i need to convert the loom over to the thicker gauge wire?

I went against this as my thinking is that the seats are not being used at all times, wires look thick enough for making adjustments for short bursts, and it is fused (in the engine bay fuse box) so easily re-fused. I decided to just plug the suckers in...






So far they work fine! Both electric adjustment seats are now in and working a-OK. Plug and play!

Turning my attention to the door panels - as now both front and seat leathers are the "finer" grain... the door trims must match!



















While doing the door cards i noticed these modules were also different to each other!



















I wonder why the later model 3.2 has less pins but seems to have more function (being that the PAX window has one touch and the 2.0 doesnt...)

So i've swapped the driver's side trim, module/motor. Now it seems that i have the dashboard light ( on in the centre of the dash -w here middle speaker would go) constantly on, the driver's door window no longer inches down when opening/closing, and the passenger's door is not openable from outside unless the engine is on.

Some strange behaviour but i think the PAX side also needs to be matched or there's some coding that i need to correct. Anyone else have any ideas?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The pin out changed for the modules. I've written up the differences here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 4#p8799874

The alarm buttons on the driver door handle are probably interfering with the dash light


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> The pin out changed for the modules. I've written up the differences here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 4#p8799874
> 
> The alarm buttons on the driver door handle are probably interfering with the dash light


Ohh thank you thank you. I *knew* I should've swapped over the door looms too but it was getting dark so I rushed to push things back together.

I don't recall unplugging an alarm button at the door handle though... just the 3 plugs at the module/motor. 32 pin, 20 pin & 16 pin


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yeah swapping the loom is the easiest solution since you have them

Sorry mixed my words up. Meant the lock buttons on the handle and the alarm button on the door edge. If everything else works fine, I'd suspect it will be specifically the alarm buttons, as there are a few model year changes there (for some reason). I'd be interested to know if both your cars have the 2 button alarm switches or if one has just 1? And maybe if that's the case, before you put it back together I have another question regarding the wiring


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh I get you now. The locks actually playing up a lot it's quite wild! The indicators blink for a few seconds while the passenger side locks are actuating... but then they can't be opened unless engine is on. Hahaha

Now it's just a matter of figuring out how to release the loom from the body connector.

I will update re: alarm monitoring button I don't recall either having this.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

It might be country specific but if present the alarm buttons are on the rear edge of the door inside the door shut area

10 pin wing mirror plug is the same, the 20 pin door electrics connector is also different which probably explains the issues you are having with the locks

Confused me at first too when I swapped my modules


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

@MT-V6 The alarm monitoring is definitely not there

Looks like all functions other than window and mirror controls have been affected! LOL
- fuel flap
- boot open
- central locking
have all been affected by the module swap :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I found this pic off another forum to explain where the latch is for the door to body connector


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

It's easier to swap them in the connector that goes into the module. Not sure if the connector you pictures is wired differently between modules though, but if you don't do it at door module level the wires will be different colours to factory which makes tracing them difficult in the wiring diagrams?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Is this what you mean? That the body to door connector might be different?

Please correct me if i'm wrong but to me it looks like from the body to the door is the same. it's after this and at the module that they are different as denoted by the *3 and *5.



















I can confidently say that the looms i have are facelift looms (but i don't have anti-dazzle, heated mirrors etc etc [smiley=bigcry.gif] but can now see where wiring would go if i were able to find the hardware!)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What I mean is I would only change the wiring at the 20 and 32 pin connectors that join straight to the module, and leave the ones in the door shut grommet as they are

Maybe I got mixed up but I thought you were saying you would change them there instead


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ahhh. Yeah I get what you mean

I was just going to take everything in the door and swap them all over...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Since both looms are out AND I remembered I had some spare wiring sitting around. I decided to do this 




























Going to have to done the correct connectors on the other end and probably need to upgrade the door modules too but this will get me better at reading the wi-digs


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I had noticed that when driving on the freeway that i could hear wind leaking into the cabin - it was more pronounced with the fans on.









They needed adjustment by these two T30 bolts - must remove plastic covers and woofer then wind the window down till you can see both.

















And with a bit of adjustment and testing and re-testing the windows sit up inside where it should!









While playing around with the seat adjusters the fuses would pop - so i've placed a 25A in there and it's holding (the stock 10A was definitely under rated)









Now i noticed something strange - this module has come out of the 2.0 (base spec). It seems to have WAY more pins than the one i've taken out of the later model one


















The main thing i notice is that on the actual module itself the 2.0 one (with more pins) is an 63273 *"8"* while the 3.2 (less pins) is a* "2"* - so does that final number actually mean anything as to the increased functionality of the module?

If so this means the 2.0 had the passenger side module with tons more pins than the driver's side one. While the 3.2 had less pins on both sides. hmmmmm

Anyway! Now that i've swapped everything around and matched the window modules with their looms - everything is working properly again.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Passenger door module does have fewer buttons as no boot switch, fuel switch, only one window switch etc

Unless the module offers more functionality I would worry, such as folding door mirror support


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Keep up the interesting updates


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Getting right in there with the FrankensTTeining!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

And the work is done!

Cluster removal and upgrade video -















To...


















All that needed to be done after after "the hard work" was coding to match hardware, country, and mileage.

Best retrofit so far!


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Well done and assume you are clicking through options on DIS menu from button under wiper control. BTW did you notice a light sensor below speedo that automatically adjusts the dash lighting and if so does it look easy to replace as mine and others on here seem to have an issue with this sensor not working properly


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> Well done and assume you are clicking through options on DIS menu from button under wiper control. BTW did you notice a light sensor below speedo that automatically adjusts the dash lighting and if so does it look easy to replace as mine and others on here seem to have an issue with this sensor not working properly


Hey Iceblue - yes just clicking through with the usual method however this software version has more options.

I didn't take notice of this sensor because i was busy making sure i didn't break the cluster when upgrading but i can look on the pre facelift red one as i will need to re adapt it to the parts car. Will keep you informed.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Definitely doing this and congrats for successfully swapping it. Any change you can tell me the part number for the white dials?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Also, was all coding and mileage coding done through VCDS?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

And just for shits and giggles sweep and lap timer function added to red cluster


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Definitely doing this and congrats for successfully swapping it. Any change you can tell me the part number for the white dials?


The part number will be the same as your and the postfix I've used is an "F". However the software is from a later model hence the extended options. To do the upgrade you can source any facelift cluster.



MT-V6 said:


> Also, was all coding and mileage coding done through VCDS?


Correct. The coding to fix country, installed hardware and mileage are done in VCDS. HOWEVER and this is a big however. The actual matching and modding to make the swap possible is done on the board itself. It is not plug and play as the encrypted IMMO data requires matching. So the what does the job entail? 
- remove red cluster from 2.0
- open it
- work the hardware to take the software

- remove white cluster from 3.2
- open it
- work the hardware to take the software

- swap the necessary information from each cluster 
- insert extra functions 
- work the new software into respective cluster with modified security 
- re install
- use VCDS to fix coding for the specific car's hardware & correct the mileage

It is most definitely NOT plug and play


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have had a rattle from "somewhere in the hatch" area and noticed it would roll around. Finally got round to finding out what it was

















Since I was in the area and I've had a "rear glass break sensor" error always logged in the comfort control module I stripped out the rest of the hatch to look for said sensor.









Joined these (well. Broke them off and silver painted the lines back) and no change 

And then I noticed this - naturally I wanted to bring over the one with MORE PLUGS!










































I was afraid I'd need to drop the roof trim to bring in the extra antenna from the 3.2 module. Luckily all that was needed was to attach the adaptor piece and tuck it into the gap where the oem loom comes through











































Then popped all the trim back on and all is good - apart from rear glass break sensor. Does anyone know where exactly this is?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Then things escalated as I turn my attention to taking the PDC wiring


























Gold: CAN, ground and signal 
Black: shoots into the rear for the bumper sensors









To get a clear view of what needs to be removed it is easier to release the rear fuse holder / cradle. 

























Now to release the wiring from the rest of the loom.
Following the gold plug - it starts heading back to the front of the car









Front seat unbolted, flipped back and...

























I didn't have the right tool to remove the relevant pin from the side fuse holder so I stopped there for now.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I retrofitted mine but this documents what I did, if it helps https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1546545

I plan to relocate my rear buzzer now I know where it is supposed to be fitted, as originally I thought it was in the side of the boot and not near the rear right speaker


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

fab - any help is great!

Looks like my wiring is going to powertrain unlike yours so i must follow them all the way to under the dash and source the powertrain lines from either the cluster or the J533.

It looks a mess but won't have to be as messy when installing into the 2.0 pre facelift.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ah, I have a guide for that too (canbus wiring is the same, ignore the front sensors parts)

The canbus did change from convenience to powertrain at some point, so modules do differ


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

My diagrams show the PDC hooking into two sets of powertrain CANBUS. I wonder if I can just join into the one pair rather than both pairs?

I have a spare set of PDC sensors from an R36. Hope I can get those in for the front mod like you've done ...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Found my answer to the above ...

First I was able to pick out #7 from fuse box C - side of dash









Then it was time to figure out where the powertrain CAN connects to. From past experience 








they generally will have a "hub"










Following the twisted pair I notice a whole bunch of other twisted pairs gathering... then I notice a strange J shaped wrapped bundle that ends no where. I had a sneaking suspicion...









... that maybe this was where I'd find what I needed. I unwrapped the cloth tape and was left with a whole bunch of twisted pairs!!! Found the CAN central "hub" 









The black w/yellow stripe wire belongs to the system that connects to the PDC also has it's own little congregation of wires for it's own mini CAN setup!









Then finally released the module from the frame and neatly bundled the loom.









Now that I've made that little discovery it definitely won't be so difficult adding other hardware upgraded and needing to find CAN wires. They can all just lead to the area under the bonnet pull handle!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Also bear in mind the CAN gateway behind the glovebox. I usually splice them in that area


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Also bear in mind the CAN gateway behind the glovebox. I usually splice them in that area


Yes i will probably try and retrieve up to the CAN gateway for the POWERTRAIN CAN lines that run from the Haldex to front of car. Otherwise i will just run them across the rear seat and down the driver's side for my sanity. Same with the lift pump's signal wires to the instrument cluster.

Otherwise it's a dashboard off job - which is not so fun! Doable... but there is an easier way! hahaha

*CLUSTER UPDATE*

I'm not sure if others have experienced this but i noticed that the top left corner of the FIS had gone dim. So i went about investigating.

















So the only way to properly get access is to strip the cluster back to the main PCB

























I'll need to source some LED's that are of the same spec and weld them in place to get these ones back to life [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

While i wait for the LED's to show up i worked on pulling more wiring from the body.

The only other major loom left will be the Haldex and second fuel pump wiring.









Taking a closer look there are two plugs at the Haldex so i will need to cross check to see where the other one goes (i'm used to older Haldex only have the single plug at the module)









Following the main plug - it leads you here - to the top of the secondary/ lift fuel pump. This helps siphon the petrol from the "saddle" shaped tank toward the main pump.









Pop the covers to reveal the plugs (which need a clean)

















Then release the passenger's side loom which runs to the front.









Close to where the bench seat finishes i noticed the ground wire from the Haldex plug goes back toward the rear. Pictured is where it splices into the common grounding point which is just under the rear 1/4 window.









Releasing the majority of the Haldex / lift pump loom shows where it then disappears to... up behind the dash
<use a later pic)









... when trying to follow the POWERTRAIN CAN twisted pair... again i notice something









and after some unravelling i find the union where the CAN pairs congregate - this will make joining CAN signals to the right systems nice and simple instead of having to dig deeper into the dash wiring to find a join.
















To remove the whole length of POWERTRAIN CAN from the Haldex intermediate plug situated on top of the lift pump to the congregation all i needed to do was pull firmly and the pair came out from the side of the dash (after removing all the loom tape of course!) because it begins to go up and it LOOKS like it might go behind but it actually comes back down to that taped "J" section! 

Best discovery so far!

Next was to tackle the lift pump wiring which sends it's signal to the cluster fuel level sensor. There was so way in hell i was going to release the dash from the body so this is where i've cut. As far in as possible to have the longest run of wire. Previous to cutting I check for continuity at the other end to ensure what I am cutting is the correct wire.









Here i'm opening up the cluster plug to reveal the two pins that i require and label their location

















*JOB DONE!*
So now i've successfully pulled both the Haldex body loom and the secondary lift pump loom - pins labelled and have kept the relevant fuse - #8 10a.









Best part about doing it this way (just taking what i need) is that i can still move the car (albeit with a lot of beeps coming from the dash) because i've not removed or disconnected basic equipment that'll leave the car unable to run.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I wish I knew about these CAN bundles as that would have made things easier for me in the past, but at least I know for the future


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I wish I knew about these CAN bundles as that would have made things easier for me in the past, but at least I know for the future


I guess now we all know for future reference!


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

This is a great thread Ian, it's going to be a massive help for a lot retro fits and repairs.

Following this with interest


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## motornoter (Jul 16, 2012)

Agree with the prevous post, this thread is fancinating. Keep it coming! and really appreciate the detail

My understanding of the TT's CAN wiring is increasing day by day.


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## kerwinrobertson (Sep 3, 2018)

"Then popped all the trim back on and all is good - apart from rear glass break sensor. Does anyone know where exactly this is?"

I had the same issue, a intermittent rear class break sensor. It might be worth checking out the comfort control module in the drivers side rear light/boot area. That has the connector for the sensor, blue wire, connector C (6 pins) pin 4, brown earth coming from sensor.

I ended up coding my glass break sensor out.


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## kerwinrobertson (Sep 3, 2018)

This is a photo of the sensor on a Audi A6. Hope it helps.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> This is a great thread Ian, it's going to be a massive help for a lot retro fits and repairs.
> 
> Following this with interest


Thanks Barry! I'm all about spreading the knowledge 



motornoter said:


> Agree with the prevous post, this thread is fancinating. Keep it coming! and really appreciate the detail
> 
> My understanding of the TT's CAN wiring is increasing day by day.


I shall do! I'm going to try and take more video as they are more "telling/detailed" of what i'm doing rather than static pictures but the forum doesn't seem to display them correctly when i'm using Chrome. CAN system is actually not as complex and when i found out that they physically just join all the lines together when looking at wiring diagrams - then actually seeing it for myself - the light bulb moment clicked and in my mind things aren't so bad! LOL

Thanks for the feedback guys and if there are any suggestions to improve my posts let me know.



kerwinrobertson said:


> This is a photo of the sensor on a Audi A6. Hope it helps.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1


I didn't see any small points like this on my rear windscreen - it's a bit strange! Comparing the 3.2 to the 2.0 - everything looks identical - so unless it is located elsewhere then it is still a mystery to me.

Can you please hint to me in which module you coded this out because i don't see the option in my Convenience CAN module when i last looked...


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'd be interested in how you modified the cluster with the later screen and managed to code the new features to it, as it sounds like to swapped components inside the cluster unit?

If it's not too much to ask a step by step would be appreciated as it's something I've wanted in mine


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I'd be interested in how you modified the cluster with the later screen and managed to code the new features to it, as it sounds like to swapped components inside the cluster unit?
> 
> If it's not too much to ask a step by step would be appreciated as it's something I've wanted in mine


Ditto! I have a set of TTS clocks sitting waiting for me to fit them (white screen & needles), which I'm struggling to find info to do. So may be easier to swap parts.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

It's not a simple process and you must be comfortable with opening the cluster, desoldering components, soldering signal wires to specific points on the board and lifting legs off components.

Then you need to take data from two different chips. The data is then modified and re uploaded back home.

If you will be swapping from pre facelift to facelift then you'll need to do this twice over and modify the updated cluster's data on both sets of chips so everything matches otherwise you will have a no start - which is what you will be currently experiencing barry_m2. Scan you immobiliser measuring block and you will see the PN is the same as the Instruments block - thats where one set of the data lives to have a functioning car.

This is what it looks like when you want to get the information required for the upgrade  








Are you comfortable with doing this level of wiring/soldering?
(believe me i was freaking out during the whole process especially when i needed to finally power the hardware - you can literally fry things easily if the 12v goes to the incorrect places BUT i have a few years experience up my sleeve with clusters - albeit - not this generation)

I only had the tool to take a read and write back ($200 or so AUD). Then I had help with converting the data required to make the cluster swap/needle sweep work - the hardware for both sets of modifications cost at _least_ £1200

When you purchase this hardware it outlines what needs to be done wiring wise in the software. If you like i can point you in the right direction (if you are confident with soldering) otherwise PM me and i can refer you to the person who helped me out but you're going to have to be prepared to be without your clusters (and an immobilized vehicle as the IMMO data is in the cluster) if you need to send both of them away to make the upgrade happen.

Either that or get your soldering skills up to scratch  Let me know and i'll do the best to help from down under


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Changing out the 18's for 19's - i was pleasantly surprised with the spec of the OEM 18" wheels at 9" wide - winner!!! ET is 52 for both wheels so now i know if I were to get different wheels later that 52 is the spec to find (unless i want a more flush look).

















Replacing with the Speedline 19's from the 3.2

















Now a quick comparison of the suspension components - the following photos are Quattro VS FWD
































I will definitely need to swap over the front struts (the whole rear end is being transferred) due to the heavier weight of the VR6. Otherwise there would definitely be the risk of bottoming out of the shocks.

About a week ago i pulled the bonnet to check of fitment of a honeycomb grille - when i did this the latch pulled WAY more than it should've - which left me with a non-openable bonnet! :lol: 
So while i was swapping out the wheels i had read online that the way to access this is from the wheel well. So after having a bit of a feel in the dark - i was able to pull the disconnected cable end out and pulled on the ball end








Ahhhh! Good to see the engine bay again! haha

















This is how it should look!








I secured the unit at the end where it has unclip with a couple of zip ties - all is B.A.U. with the latch.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Time to release the rest of the rear PDC stuff... along with the rest of the facelift bumper!









Removed the tail light (and broke some of the fitting... oops!) and now there's access to the other T25 torx that need to be undone.









Once all of the T25 torx and push fittings have been removed from the wheel well liner, out from behind the exhaust shield and the two hiding under the black trim under the tail light - you're now ready to pull... it feels like you're going to break something  









































Time to start getting under the car!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Both bumpers now OFF!
Which revealed that the facelift has headlight washers - another retrofit to integrate.









I also had a front parking sensor loom from the R36 i stripped out so i might as well utilise it while the bumper is off and get the system ready for OPS.
























Had some extra little bits which will come in handy for tidying up fitment









Although I don't think my module will allow for OPS - i notice that that one in MT-V6's guide has two arrows on the box whereas mine only has one.








@MT-V6 can you please also confirm how you decided where to place the sensor brackets and did you need to glue them on??

I also remembered i took this wiring out from the R36 washer jets - looking at wiring diagrams they are for heated windscreen washer jets.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Didn't know this but the S-line tail lights have a slightly darker tint VS standard.










Who knew!?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Not sure if it is S-line but the V6 in general (in the UK at least) has the darker tinted lights

Regarding the front sensors, no module fitted to the TT will support front sensors so it will need replacing, ut luckily it's pretty much plug and play (with the extra front wiring of course). As for fitting, the Skoda brackets I used come with a sticky foam pad so can be stuck right on. Seems to be holding up for now, at at the end of the day this is how it is fitted in the factory anyway

As for locations, there is pretty much only one space suitable for each sensor. It makes more sense when you look at the inside of the front bumper, but see my guide for photos etc. The outer ones require a bit of trimming as the bumper is double skinned

Just check the part number of the Passat sensors, 2 different types are required to fit the available space in the TT bumper


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Not sure if it is S-line but the V6 in general (in the UK at least) has the darker tinted lights


Yes i will be using hte darker tinted ones on the black - looks just that little more great!



MT-V6 said:


> Regarding the front sensors, no module fitted to the TT will support front sensors so it will need replacing, ut luckily it's pretty much plug and play (with the extra front wiring of course). As for fitting, the Skoda brackets I used come with a sticky foam pad so can be stuck right on. Seems to be holding up for now, at at the end of the day this is how it is fitted in the factory anyway
> 
> As for locations, there is pretty much only one space suitable for each sensor. It makes more sense when you look at the inside of the front bumper, but see my guide for photos etc. The outer ones require a bit of trimming as the bumper is double skinned
> 
> Just check the part number of the Passat sensors, 2 different types are required to fit the available space in the TT bumper


Yeah so i think i will just make the wiring up to the module and replace is when i find one.

I was trying to compare your pics but i will have another better look.

I don't have the actual sensors - just the loom so it's a good opportunity to get the correct ones - in your pics you show one type but in the list there are two types? Can you please give a visual example of the types? ta


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here is a better comparison of the difference in tint of the tail lights with the lighter part number ending in B and the
Cherry red one ending in C. Does anyone know if the later models one differ again? 









Then I turn my attention back to the cluster to repair the dead LED's.

















To match brightness I went ahead and changed them all :mrgreen:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I'm not sure why the forum is displaying my photos 90 degrees off from what they're displayed on my phone. Apologies for that 

Time to get a little dirtier ...








There's ALWAYS one that breaks!


















Now I have full access to the propshaft and the part numbers needed for mounting








Labeled as "retaining plate" in schematics. Stupid!!!

Following updates I'm going to try and make upload videos :mrgreen:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have ordered the "retaining plates" and extra bracket for the Quattro fuel tank heat shield to bolt into.

Got more things out this morning.









Swapping the shifter from the regular, side button, all leather one to the front button TT logo one.








To remove as a whole you need to take off:
Exhaust
Heatshields
Selector aluminium trim (undo two plugs)
Ashtray
Leather gaiter from aluminium trim
Then I was able to drop it from underneath. I undid the final plug from under.

While I was in there I saw the ESP sensor which I will also need to swap but that can be done later.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

How thick is the carbon build up on the exhaust pipe of 2.0 that has no air injection compared to 3.2?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> How thick is the carbon build up on the exhaust pipe of 2.0 that has no air injection compared to 3.2?


Do you mean at the end or somewhere in between like the cat ?

If in the middle I don't know yet as I've not removed the 2.0 down pipe etc.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > How thick is the carbon build up on the exhaust pipe of 2.0 that has no air injection compared to 3.2?
> ...


In the middle.. I tried decarbonizing the muffler by parking the car in a hill facing down and let it soak with Industrial Grade Carbon Remover. The performance increase is huge compared to cleaning the intake valve that only makes the engine idle smoother.

Watch how easily it remove carbon build up





Intake Valve soak with carbon remover closeup view


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh wow. Ok i appreciate how effective that is! Nice to know about it.

If I remember to I can take photos of the difference between the two but I'm not too sure if I will completely drop the exhaust out of the 2.0 just yet.

I think when I swap the shifter assembly around that If I can get away with just moving the exhaust off to the side or just a slight drop (to swap shifter assemblies) I'll do just that to save time.

Otherwise I can easily take shots of the VR6 one and you can contribute with your TFSI one?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Would you mind posting the part number of the shift mechanism? The one above is from the facelift V6 right?

Didn't realise it was such a big job to remove, is that because of the cables that connect to the gearbox?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Would you mind posting the part number of the shift mechanism? The one above is from the facelift V6 right?
> 
> Didn't realise it was such a big job to remove, is that because of the cables that connect to the gearbox?











I noticed on the plain/side button unit the letter is "E"

The job isn't actually that big. Remember for that VR6 I'm removing more than actually needed to quickly do the swap.

I've done it on the 2.0 so now the pretty shifter is in and what I suspected was right. I was able to do the swap without having to remove the exhaust from the turbo as the design of the 2.0 exhaust means only one cat = space to get the unit out past the single cat.

I ended up doing a repair on the aluminium trim too as it was separating from it's plastic base.










I'll work on a video guide too


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got a few spares from a mate who wrecks VW's. Hoping these will be compatible

Managed to get two parking sensors - so will need to attain the fittings and another two sensors to prepare for front sensors/OPS









Going clockwise starting at the module: R36 PDC/OPC module (I am hoping for x-compatibility - & I wonder what the third plug is used for?), 6 plug pigtail (I'm going to use this for the bumper loom so the PDC wiring is easily disconnected if required without having to dig back to the in car wiring - this is how the oem setup is in other VAG platforms), PDC buzzer, 4x footwell LED's and pigtails. 









It would have been ideal to have full wiring runs but time and temperature had us quickly cutting things out.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Video on how to swap shifter units - 




There is also another option where you remove the gearknob and twist the plastic fitting underneath - but then you risk damaging it.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Can anyone give an insight as to what the extra blue antenna plug is for on RNS-e?









There is no mention of it on the wiring pin out sticker









If it's just for GPS I won't bother bringing it over ...


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I would guess GPS from the shark fin


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Great video, thanks. A lot more hassle that the heat and twist way but I'm still tempted, knowing it's a good job done


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> Can anyone give an insight as to what the extra blue antenna plug is for on RNS-e?


Yes, it's the GPS aerial input. Fakra plugs/sockets are colour coded and keyed for their specific use and will not join with plugs/sockets of a different colour. GPS plugs/sockets are "Signal Blue" and have two rectangular keyways 180 degrees apart.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Great video, thanks. A lot more hassle that the heat and twist way but I'm still tempted, knowing it's a good job done


It's a little more involved when you have the cardan shaft to deal with but it was an ideal time for me to get the TT logo one out because i'd already taken out the shaft.

I imagine it would be a little more difficult with it in the way that's for sure!

obviously on the FWD vehicle it was a non issue 



tttony said:


> > Can anyone give an insight as to what the extra blue antenna plug is for on RNS-e?
> 
> 
> Yes, it's the GPS aerial input. Fakra plugs/sockets are colour coded and keyed for their specific use and will not join with plugs/sockets of a different colour. GPS plugs/sockets are "Signal Blue" and have two rectangular keyways 180 degrees apart.


Ahhhh ok very good - won't bother since GPS on phones now make the RNS-e GPS obsolete.

I will - however! Do this one and add AUX function to the HU with a bluetooth module http://mr-fix.info/audi-rns-e-audio-aux-activation-wiring/


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Thank you ever so much for the video on changing the dsg stick but having just retro fitted cruise control and front foot well lights my back is not going to let me take that on.

I wish I was 5 years younger now. 
Keep up the good work this is very informative at least for me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Nidana said:


> Thank you ever so much for the video on changing the dsg stick but having just retro fitted cruise control and front foot well lights my back is not going to let me take that on.
> 
> I wish I was 5 years younger now.
> Keep up the good work this is very informative at least for me.
> ...


I'll definitely endeavour to keep the video guides going. Hopefully I'll get better at creating content too!

It's all a learning for me as well - this is the first Mk2 TT I've ever worked on. I love getting in there and pulling things apart (if you can't tell :lol: )


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Randomly - I found that the donor car had LED interior bulbs and the condition of the vent surround aren't so great on the 2.0. So I switched those around.









One of the bulbs decided not to work - some soldering fixed that up!









Love a good 20 minute cheap and cheerful mod!

Next on the list is to begin tucking wiring back to where they used to be as I've pulled the major "different" units (except the CECM / BCM and CCM). Next few updates will be pulling the rear hardware and switching these over - the big stuff!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Video guide on how i went about removing the Quattro assembly from the donor vehicle - 




After some throwing around ideas with friends we thought this would be the simplest way without interrupting the rear suspension geometry. Enjoy :mrgreen:


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Love this build I keep checking back all the time for updates 8) amazing work


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks Knight - it can be tricky getting the camera to take the shot i need (like when i lost focus in one angle) but the more you guys can see then it gives a better understanding of the work and work area!

I'm really looking forward to getting that 3.6 in though [smiley=dude.gif] but for now it's baby steps...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here's some reference pics of the fuel tank mounts - essentially all the same bar the extra middle bracket for the tank's heatshield - let's take a look!


















Looking at the fuel tank strap securing locations - mostly everything is there on the FWD chassis to bolt the Quattro tank on. I've highlighted landmarks that are the same - try and notice the joins in the bodywork. The same.

LEFT: 2.0 FWD / RIGHT: 3.2 
(please correct my NS/OS terminology if i have it wrong as we don't use that here)


























__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Full nude of the area on the 3.2 Quattro - Front = 6 o'clock where the heatshield/fuel tank is









Full nude of the area on the 2.0 FWD - Front = 6 o'clock where you can _just_ see the fuel tank covers


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Quattro fuel tank is out and gave it a wipe down









The mid bracket which I thought was only an exhaust hanger is actually part of the fuel tank.









That's it on the 3.2 next is to repeat in the 2.0...

Edit: 2.0 tank for comparisons sale


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Simple but effective.









I also had these arrive which will be fitted much later in the timeline as the focus is now mechanical

















Interesting thing is there is literally only two extra wires to these VS the headlight wiring I have now :lol:


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I did some background work and will put these here for my own reference later.

I've mapped out what pins need to go where from the OEM Halogen wiring to the more fully featured 14 pin plug.
View attachment 4


For clarity this is what wires will need re-pinning/adding as the rest (GND, indicator, main beam) are already in the correct locations at the BCM. Wire #2 at the 10pin plug (used to control mechanical headlight range) is not going to be used as the gauge is too small hence my reasoning to run a new wire where needed.









There are 11 pins to accomodate for (VS 9)
1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14. I've also marked the change at the BCM and which plug they go to.








What i mean by fully featured is that this adaptor plug has a lot more wires attached than required - all 14 locations are full - better to have more than not enough!









I found this schematic for the AFS module - nice and simple. Connections to make
- Powertrain CAN
- front levelling sensor
- rear levelling sensor
- GND (Terminal 31)
- IGN live (Terminal 15)
- "SUB-CAN" which is the small network to and from the headlight xenon module (the silver unit on the side of headlights)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Another good retrofit


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Another good retrofit


Yeah It's going to look great once sorted. I'm wondering if I can install these without having the CAN network / AFS module sorted out yet? Will they work minus self levelling / AFS or is that not good practice?

As the wiring diagrams show they are essentially the two extra different wires (and some wire gauge differences and obviously coding the BCM)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I think I've read on here before they can be used as standard bixenon lights but it was ages ago so don't know where I saw that


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I think I've read on here before they can be used as standard bixenon lights but it was ages ago so don't know where I saw that


 [smiley=cheers.gif] I might fab up a 10 > 14 pin interconnect before I make a permanent change for testing


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Can the reflector for the halogen high beam added to bi-xenon headlight assembly? It's better to have two separate bulbs for low and high beam.

Just remove the connector from the headlight housing so you can remove the terminal. You just need to pull then pry the lock on the flat side then push it forward.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Can the reflector for the halogen high beam added to bi-xenon headlight assembly? It's better to have two separate bulbs for low and high beam.
> 
> Just remove the connector from the headlight housing so you can remove the terminal. You just need to pull then pry the lock on the flat side then push it forward.


I don't see the use for a separate low and hi when the purpose of a bi-xenon is to do just that. The flap opens to let more light out for the hi beam. Otherwise the flap is closed for low beam.

Thanks for revealing that piece of info regarding the connector!!! Will be able to make an interconnect with a 10pin male! :wink:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got it! Taken from the busted headlight from donor car.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Added Bluetooth music streaming to RNS-e which required a little bit of hard wiring but at least now I have an IGN ON feed to which I can add accessories to if required in the future. 









The neat little module powers on quickly when the key is turned and my phone quickly connects for crystal clear, wireless streaming without having to resort to unsightly add ons to the cigarette lighter :mrgreen:


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Your like the electronic Einstein


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Knight-tts said:


> Your like the electronic Einstein


haha

Just wait till the 3.6 has to be wired in!

That's going to be the interesting part.... eek


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

To the wiring gods - i hope someone can help! I am stuck and confused (or maybe i just need a break from doing my head in!)

This is my current headlight switch









... and i've seen the DRL style headlight switch...









Now i've decided to do this with the headlight wiring where i'm going to be disconnecting the "manual headlight range control" wires from the switch as the gauge of wire is too small so will add a suitable gauge run to the BCM.









HOWEVER this leaves them there just doing nothing BUT it looks like the same "adjustment wheel" is on the DRL style switch. My questions are:
- am i correct in thinking that basically the switchgear in the same it's just the fascia that is different?
- where would these two wires go AUTO VS DRL style switchgear?
- what does the adjustment wheel do on the DRL switch?

I've tested the voltage that comes from that feed to the 10 pin plug and as you change the wheel from 0,I, II, III the voltage differs... so i'm guessing that they wire up to somewhere on the DRL style switches but i'm having trouble finding the info [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> headlight switch agony


Unfortunately, the headlight switches are usually dealt with in a pretty "black box" fashion schematically. Short of disassembly and trace chasing (been there, just not with the manual xenon or DRL adjust) your best bet is to just compare/contrast pinout of the connectors and wire destinations in the diagrams to get an educated guess. I imagine you're either already in that stage or dreading it. Wouldn't surprise me one bit if the switches were electrically identical but pinned differently at J519, as VAG likes to copy and paste the same basic switch concepts with the same resistor values into different locations/functions. Roundabout way of saying "easy to speculate, difficult to know without a test subject, which you may as well just use instead if you were to buy one."

Wish I had perused the forum more recently, could have helped with a lot of the prior legwork. My former CCTA 2.0T is now a CBUA 2.5L (NA), and I had soooo much deja vu whilst getting up to speed. I'll try and drop in more frequently.

*some notes from my experience that may or may not be helpful*
-the 3.2 and 3.6 should both use the 3-wire leak detection pump with vacuum-actuated valve, but double-check the schematics for V144. my later model CBUA used an ECU-controlled electrical valve (4th wire) and it had me stumped for a second.
-the engine component relay in the TSI model might be in the FSI as well. That, and the fueling relay (with module or lack thereof on the 3.6) may require extra attention.
-pin swapping the body harness plug at the ECU is easy enough once you get the thing apart, just cross-reference polarity (where applicable) and locations for each function on each harness. Even when properly de-pinned, some terminals will stop wanting to "catch" in their new receptacles and the design makes them nigh impossible to recover the function. the purple slide lock will do the job fine on its own, just make sure they're well-seated. Especially if they didn't want to slide in and the wire has gone a bit flimsy on you whilst pushing it in. Some deft pick tool pushing is your friend there.

-you may end up needing to swap your rear floor pan like MK5 VW's do, but as I recall that's more an issue of the full-size spare tub in their case, and some just opt to cut the spare well. there's also a fable of some added crossmember in the R32, so keep a keen eye when examining the differences in FWD underbody sans subframe. the haldex swapped VW's usually just fabricate and weld in a brace out of square stock.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

grantlack said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > headlight switch agony
> ...


Hey Grant! Nice work on getting the 2.5 N/A in there - they are also MED 9.x aren't they?

- I've had a look at the 3.6's diagrams and they don't mention a V144 - The 2.0 and the 3.2 do though - might it be called s something else in the 3.6? Although looking through those pins are not populated in the 3.6's ECU....

-I am going from the BWA platform so is a different ECU type to the chain driven = less hurdles for me to jump. SOunds like you had to do a lot more since that later engine model is (i believe) the Siemen's ECU? Correct me if i'm wrong... i know MED 9.x is Bosch.

- re the floor pan - all is good! no swapping of pans but just 3 brackets that require welding in due to FWD > Quattro conversion

[smiley=cheers.gif] for the info and if you have any more tidbits i appreciate anything you got!

P.S. show your conversion! We didn't get the 2.5 n/a engine down here


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Looks like it was staring right my face the whole time! The 7 pin connector just doesn't have as many pins connected as the roller on the DRL VS manual range positions are:









- DRL: 0, I as per E579
- Manual headlight range: 0, I, II, III as per E102

So i'm guessing if i were to measure volts on the DRL roller it would only have 2 different voltages VS the 4


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

You beat me to it but I was going to say I'm pretty sure the DRL is an on/off switch compared to the multiple positions of the headlight aim

Saved me looking on Elsawin myself anyway


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

:wink:

I also have found that I don't need a full "DRL" style switchgear. The part with the roller/coming home had a separate part number to it so I will show that when it comes. 
DRL roller: 8P2941531A
Manual headlight range roller: 8J0919094 (no coming home)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

You'll probably want the whole switch though, as the lettering is on the main body unfortunately


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Meh i think i will survive knowing that the only difference is in the "DRL" letter VS the "light globe" icon.

So i ended up installing the DRL lights! My homework seems to have paid off as what i outlined for the pin changes have them working on a basic level.









They're a really nice look and the light output is SO much better than the halogens.
Much later on will come the assembly and integration of the levelling sensors and AFS control unit, but for now these lights (oh yeah i did the honeycomb grille mod too) are working amazingly well!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Let the conversion parts roll in!









Part numbers as follows

















Next step - up goes the FrankensTTein


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This picture sums it all up I think!


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Hey Grant! Nice work on getting the 2.5 N/A in there - they are also MED 9.x aren't they?


the early NA 07K motors were on 7.1, and skipped 9 for bosch 17.5 when they ditched the MAF sensor. just owes to the timing of the refresh, I suppose, as the TSI motors started off with the same. I opted for the revised setup to make it easier; plug-compatible, etc.



ianpgonzaga said:


> - I've had a look at the 3.6's diagrams and they don't mention a V144 - The 2.0 and the 3.2 do though - might it be called s something else in the 3.6? Although looking through those pins are not populated in the 3.6's ECU....


i'd be rather surprised if they didn't fit a fuel system leak detection pump, as it's pretty standard kit. wouldn't necessarily base it off pin assignment across ECUs, as it's not uncommon for accessories like that to get shifted around to different I/O locations.



ianpgonzaga said:


> -I am going from the BWA platform so is a different ECU type to the chain driven = less hurdles for me to jump. SOunds like you had to do a lot more since that later engine model is (i believe) the Siemen's ECU? Correct me if i'm wrong... i know MED 9.x is Bosch.


Still Bosch. Actual ECU pins relocated at the T94 were probably <20. It was the components/systems downstream that required some attention, as they weren't all functional analogs across the two vehicles. I made a little more work for myself than need be, but only because the differences in fueling and switched power made it an "I'm here, so might as well" scenario. I bumped the handful of B fuses to the C panel, so it's just a distribution block for panel A instead of the clunky and under-utilized factory fuse box.



ianpgonzaga said:


> - re the floor pan - all is good! no swapping of pans but just 3 brackets that require welding in due to FWD > Quattro conversion


yep, same bracket locations needed for the other platform cousins. nice that it looks like the second tank strap is accounted for, that's another (minor) hassle of swapping the MK5.



ianpgonzaga said:



> P.S. show your conversion! We didn't get the 2.5 n/a engine down here


i'll clutter up a thread of my own once I get things back to a suitable state. couldn't resist a little wire tuck, which turned into rather a lot of wire tuck. might as well build a new engine harness at this rate! :twisted:

looks like you're getting along nicely, I take it you'll be dealing with the wiring before mounting the engine?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I'll let the video do the talking of where i'm up to

The rear end has been converted :mrgreen: 








*EXCITING TIMES!*



grantlack said:


> i'll clutter up a thread of my own once I get things back to a suitable state. couldn't resist a little wire tuck, which turned into rather a lot of wire tuck. might as well build a new engine harness at this rate!


 :lol: hahaha this is where it's dangerous! You start something then you find you're in too deep. I know the feeling all too well!



grantlack said:


> I take it you'll be dealing with the wiring before mounting the engine?


For now i will just have "everything ready" (wires in place but not hooked up) as i won't be doing the 3.6 for maybe another month. The Haldex & lift pump wiring doesn't need to be installed yet as it is still essentially a 2.0FWD with the running gear in for Quattro.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Some findings while doing the swap.

- there's a big diffference in caliper piston sizes









- the height comparison in the s-line springs VS FWD









- I hated this linkage!!! You can see where the m10 spline got very... worn  









And I had this laying around from the R36 part out car. It's the OEM rear sway bar in the vehicle and as you can see: a definite upgrade over the stock 3.2 Quattro rear sway bar! (Which is _smaller_ in diameter than the FWD one!!!). It bolts right on in and I just had to transfer over the bush brackets.

*19mm VS 22mm!!!*









Gotta love a bit of cross platform compatibility :wink:


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Do you have front comparison at all? In markets other than UK the 3.2 had S Line options and the springs are what I have been trying to find out. You may be the answer I have been looking/waiting for.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Nidana said:


> Do you have front comparison at all? In markets other than UK the 3.2 had S Line options ...


Yeah that will come later but I will definitely need to change the front brakes system shock/ spring assembly to suit the VR6. There will be comparison pics so the answer will come soon 



> You may be the answer I have been looking/waiting for.


That's what I try to give, answers, facts and clear photos along the way to show the part/work.

On another note - has anyone adjusted the handbrake before?

Now that I've switched the rear calipers to the VR6 ones the handbrake need adjusting. Driver's side is WAY too loose (but engages when handbrake pulled) and the PAX side when handbrake lever is down - binds the rotor [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Sooo so so so close! Hahaha


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> handbrake


It's tucked under that rear tray of the center console, which pops up under protest with a trim tool. 10mm nut. Stay hydrated, you'll likely be there fiddling with the wrench awhile. :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

grantlack said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > handbrake
> ...


Hahaha I got it sorted. Thanks for the tip (and yes there was a lot of back and forth with tightening, testing the wheel, another click up, test and tighten and repeat about a gajillion times). At least the whole centre console doesn't have to come out like other cars.

This stage of the build is pretty much done. I just need to renew some one time use bolts then torque to spec...

3.2 back section of exhaust slots right into the 2.0's cat section (and vice versa). Now I have twin tips. 









The detail is small but the lip adds to the chunky look that I love. 









And some shots of the converted undercarriage 
- swapped heat shields over as the later model one seems to have a double layer which I thought would be better at managing heat

















- swapped and bled the 3.2 calipers in
- adjusted handbrake and now the disc runs free with handbrake down
- have placed the Haldex short run loom to the lift basket fitting









- using s-line springs and r36 rear swaybar as outlined in the previous video
- quick test to make sure all lights are plugged in - didn't realised the bottom fog light lights up as a rectangle and not the whole thing!!! :lol: ripped off!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Brakes are coded correctly?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Brakes are coded correctly?


I have esp and abs errors showing on dash. I haven't looked into it yet.

What do you recommend??


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > Brakes are coded correctly?
> ...


The brake booster of VR6 is also bigger than 2.0

The ABS are coded differently depending on engine, front brake size, suspension, etc. See example of mk60 coding below but it's not for TT. *The only way to code the abs correctly is by using ODIS Online Guided Coding. You need VAS 5054 or 6154 and Gecko account.
*
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A3_(8P)_Brake_Electronics_(MK60)#Coding

ABS/EDS/ASR/ESP (MK60) 4Motion (All-Wheel-Drive)
Model:
0000000 = Audi A3 (8P) / Seat Leon (1P) / VW Golf/Jetta (1K) / Skoda Octavia (1Z)
Frontbrakes:
+0000001 = FS III 54 15" (PR-1ZF/1ZM/1ZC)
+0000002 = FN III 54 15"/16" (PR-1ZE/1LJ/1ZP/1ZD/1LL)
+0000008 = FRNG 57 17" (PR-1LK/1ZK)
Suspension:
+0000640 = Standard (PR-2UA/2UB/2UC)
Engine:
+0002048 = 1.4l / 1.6l & 1.6l FSI
+0004096 = 1.9l TDI PD / 2.0l FSI / 2.0l SDI PD & All with Automatic Transmission
+0006144 = 2.0l TDI PD
Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPMS):
+0000000 = with ABS based Tire Pressure Monitoring (PR-7K1/7K6)
+0016384 = without ABS based Tire Pressure Monitoring (PR-7K0/7K4/7K8)


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> :wink:
> 
> I also have found that I don't need a full "DRL" style switchgear. The part with the roller/coming home had a separate part number to it so I will show that when it comes.
> DRL roller: 8P2941531A
> Manual headlight range roller: 8J0919094 (no coming home)


You can also enable DRL using the DIS menu by coding CEM


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Wolvez said:
> ...


- noted. I made sure to pull the 3.6's booster before it went to the crusher. I also know I want to change the ABS modules between the FWD and the Quattros once I am ready to run in AWD mode. I think that should bypass part of that coding / ODIS required concern. I hope so anyway...

So for now the car is going to be run in FWD mode with the 2.0 in it and I'll just try to clear those ABS codes as I started the car without the sensors plugged in. Might just be similar to an airbag code where it must be reset to get rid of it



Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > I also have found that I don't need a full "DRL" style switchgear. The part with the roller/coming home had a separate part number to it so I will show that when it comes.
> ...


Will have a fiddle once all wires are connected to CEM. Would you know if these are easily swappable without the need for a PIN? I know the 3.2's one is a later model with all the programming parameters available so I'd like to run with that one.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Not sure if it will trigger component protection. FWD use the brake to reduce torque steer. A clone VAS 5054 can also connect to ODIS Online to do coding and component protection. You just need a gecko axcount.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

(delete double post)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Not sure if it will trigger component protection. FWD use the brake to reduce torque steer. A clone VAS 5054 can also connect to ODIS Online to do coding and component protection. You just need a gecko axcount.


Bloody component protection....

I just took the car for a drive - the ABS lights went out all on their own. [smiley=mexicanwave.gif]


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > Not sure if it will trigger component protection. FWD use the brake to reduce torque steer. A clone VAS 5054 can also connect to ODIS Online to do coding and component protection. You just need a gecko axcount.
> ...


Everything will seems to be fine until ESP kicks in applying brake on one tire.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Do you still have the extra dust shield from 2.0 rotor? Just wondering why big rotors have small dust shield?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Wolvez said:
> ...


Why would it do that?



Wolvez said:


> Do you still have the extra dust shield from 2.0 rotor? Just wondering why big rotors have small dust shield?


Are you referring to the front or rear brakes? I haven't touched the front ones but I am sure they are still there. The rear ones are definitely still there as I've just finished bolting everything back to the what used to be Quattro.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

How ESP works according to the manual

Using steering angle and vehicle speed, the direction the driver wishes to travel is determined and continuously compared with actual vehicle behavior . If the two do not match, for example when the vehicle begins to skid, ESP *BRAKES* the appropriate wheel automatically.
The vehicle is stabilized again by the forces acting on the wheel during braking. With an oversteering vehicle (tendency for the rear end to skid out of the curve), the brake application is mainly at the front wheel on the outside of the curve, with an understeering vehicle (tendency to run wide in the curve) at the rear wheel on the inside of the curve or additionally at the other wheels as needed . This brake application is accompanied by noises.

If you will not used the dust shield, can you please try cutting it so we can see if it really increase rotor cooling or not. Just curious why do big rotors have small dust shield.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

If really want to make it AWD you really need ODIS to code the software to function properly.

In the case of the Audi TT, the power steering assist maps are determined by the powertrain type (front wheel drive or quattro)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> If you will not used the dust shield, can you please try cutting it so we can see if it really increase rotor cooling or not. Just curious why do big rotors have small dust shield.


Sorry i am not going to be cutting as I am using the dust shield 

I have directly switched the sub frames and did not remove anything else from the entire assembly other than the swaybar links and calipers. Everything else has stayed on and was literally rolled across and bolted up to the other car.



Wolvez said:


> If really want to make it AWD you really need ODIS to code the software to function properly.
> 
> In the case of the Audi TT, the power steering assist maps are determined by the powertrain type (front wheel drive or quattro)


Yes I agree the coding changes need to be made  for now, while there is no propshaft or gearbox with transfer box it can run as is ... just with a extra heavy weight in the rear :lol:


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

> And I had this laying around from the R36 part out car. It's the OEM rear sway bar in the vehicle and as you can see: a definite upgrade over the stock 3.2 Quattro rear sway bar! (Which is _smaller_ in diameter than the FWD one!!!). It bolts right on in and I just had to transfer over the bush brackets.
> 
> *19mm VS 22mm!!!*
> View attachment 1
> ...


Don't suppose you know the part number for this do you, it's supposed to be a good upgrade to help with the 3.2 understeer

What car was it from?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > If you will not used the dust shield, can you please try cutting it so we can see if it really increase rotor cooling or not. Just curious why do big rotors have small dust shield.
> ...


But I think the reason why they used small dust shield especially on super expensive ceramic rotor because they want the rim to hit the brittle rotor that cost 2k usd :lol:


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

barry_m2 said:


> > And I had this laying around from the R36 part out car. It's the OEM rear sway bar in the vehicle and as you can see: a definite upgrade over the stock 3.2 Quattro rear sway bar! (Which is _smaller_ in diameter than the FWD one!!!). It bolts right on in and I just had to transfer over the bush brackets.
> >
> > *19mm VS 22mm!!!*
> > View attachment 1
> ...


Front Strut bar is the best upgrade.


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > > And I had this laying around from the R36 part out car. It's the OEM rear sway bar in the vehicle and as you can see: a definite upgrade over the stock 3.2 Quattro rear sway bar! (Which is _smaller_ in diameter than the FWD one!!!). It bolts right on in and I just had to transfer over the bush brackets.
> ...


Do you know what with?

May try both


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Do you know what with?
> 
> May try both


VW R36 or Tiguan.

For me - I like the car to turn into the corner and the thicker rear (rear change only!) can help to dial out understeer for improved turn in. Ideally I would like the 26mm rear sway bar

RC0006FZ-26 SuperPro Part number

But that can come later. This one is a big step up already and was free


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Tiguan pair.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

barry_m2 said:


> Do you know what with?
> 
> May try both


Install hard plastic between the steel brace and aluminum body to avoid corrosion. Huge difference in handling and braking when there is a bar holding the strut together.
























http://ultraracing.my/v1/?page_id=2267


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > Do you know what with?
> ...


OHHH i read your reply incorrectly lol

Love a good strut brace! Do you know if the plastic cover will still fit on top using this one?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Yup, the plastic cover will fit.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Additional rear bar


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Additional rear bar


I don't think this connects the two rear strut/shock tops together - wouldn't that be where you'd something like a rear strut bar to be? If so it'd be right in the middle of the hatch area. Haha


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I got this carbon fibre lower lip as the oem middle front lip/scoop got damaged in transit. I was a little annoyed but what can you do... I went for this design as the shape is a little more interesting and wanted the car to look like "mine"

So the colour theme will be black with some CF lips/diffusers whatever you wanna call them and a bit of "S" with brushed mirror caps.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Love the carbon lip 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah I think it's going to look smart!

Now I gotta find a way to get the rear diffuser looking CF.

Apparently not all plastic diffusers let the wrap stick very well.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

My S-Line comes with carbon fiber lip and rear diffuser


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> My S-Line comes with carbon fiber lip and rear diffuser


Ohhh very nice! What style CF trim is it? Can you please take a wider shot? That will be great! Also what is the part number ?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Wolvez said:
> 
> 
> > My S-Line comes with carbon fiber lip and rear diffuser
> ...


I'll take wider picture later..

8J0807421D


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I've been looking at this for some time just can not bring myself to go for it. Plus some have had issues with the store/seller from previous posts. 
At least it gives you part number and some pretty pics to see.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3515257626

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

PR Code- 2K7, 5L4

2.0 Sline
8J0807421D
8J0807421E
VR6 Sline
8J0807421M
8J0807421N


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Mine is the S-line 3.2 - dual out

So it must be the "N" revision as the D and E are mostly showing out exhaust outlet. M mostly showing either black or grey


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Mine is the S-line 3.2 - dual out
> 
> So it must be the "N" revision as the D and E are mostly showing out exhaust outlet. M mostly showing either black or grey


You will use 3.2 exhaust on 2.0? The size of Catalytic Converter depends on the size of the fuel tank. The bigger the fuel tank the bigger the cat. More fuel will evaporate and wasted on Dual fuel tank setup. 2 fuel pump is using gasoline as coolant. The exhaust pipe also pass under the fuel tank heating your fuel.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Mine is the S-line 3.2 - dual out
> ...


Yes. For now the setup is:

2.0 FWD > 2.0 downpipe and cat section > 3.2 muffler section, Quattro fuel tank (& heatshield) (there is only one pump in here btw)> twin exhaust outlets

I've never heard of this fuel tank relating to cat converter size but it is good Info. What was your message with the information? It is unclear to me. Thanks.


----------



## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

Wolvez said:


> You will use 3.2 exhaust on 2.0? The size of Catalytic Converter depends on the size of the fuel tank. The bigger the fuel tank the bigger the cat. More fuel will evaporate and wasted on Dual fuel tank setup. 2 fuel pump is using gasoline as coolant. The exhaust pipe also pass under the fuel tank heating your fuel.


I agree that the greater surface area of the fuel may lead to more evaporation, but that's about all. Overall tank volume isn't all that different, so not a lot more space to fill with evaporate before the space reaches saturation. The EVAP system sends those fuel vapors to the intake manifold and fuel trims are adjusted accordingly in the ECU to maintain lambda value, regardless of amount purged. This should not have any grand effect on the required catalyst size. Engine displacement, however, is a different story. I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) that Ian is really only referring to use of the section from the fuel tank back, so the catalysts have remained the same spec for the engine and the whole exercise is a moot point.


Wolvez said:


> 2 fuel pump is using gasoline as coolant. The exhaust pipe also pass under the fuel tank heating your fuel.


The fueling setup and exhaust routing on all Haldex cars is identical in the area around the fuel tanks, save for the resonator on the 3.2 exhaust, so I'm also unsure of what this is meant to convey.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

grantlack said:


> I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) that Ian is really only referring to use of the section from the fuel tank back, so the catalysts have remained the same spec for the engine and the whole exercise is a moot point.


Yep this is the setup. All the front is not yet touched and 2.0 TFSI BWA



grantlack said:


> The fueling setup and exhaust routing on all Haldex cars is identical in the area around the fuel tanks, save for the resonator on the 3.2 exhaust, so I'm also unsure of what this is meant to convey.


Then the back section is "just for looks" and "future proofed" for when the 3.6 and propshaft are ready to be mounted.

This is where the downpipes and cat section from the 3.6 will be carried over (although I think I need to use the 3.2'd cat section as I'm pretty sure the cats are bigger on 3.6 and don't in the space & that the muffler section end is slightly bigger diameter. I will need to measure up).

Meantime. I helped a friend install this in his S3 hence no updates lately...

















... it was a huge ballache but we got there. In situ gearbox install is a pain. [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
I rather engine out + box service!!!


----------



## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Then the back section is "just for looks" and "future proofed" for when the 3.6 and propshaft are ready to be mounted.
> 
> This is where the downpipes and cat section from the 3.6 will be carried over (although I think I need to use the 3.2'd cat section as I'm pretty sure the cats are bigger on 3.6 and don't in the space & that the muffler section end is slightly bigger diameter. I will need to measure up).


You're 100% on track, all aces. I was unclear as to where the digression from Wolvez about heated fuel and in-tank pump cooling was meant to go. It's the way they're all done, so if he has any qualms I'm unclear as to what they'd be.

You may be forced to use the 3.2 section rather than the 3.6 based on differences in powertrain mounting geometry. I ran into some of that when sorting out a downpipe for the 2.5. One would expect it to continue to share with the Golf/GTI/etc platform, but it actually uses the slightly longer Passat dogbone mount to link to the subframe. Come to think of it, that may work in your favor vis a vis the R36's geometry. Plenty of clanging and cursing in your future either way!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> You're 100% on track, all aces.


So far i think i've planned ahead and got my head around the wiring and connections as much as i can without physically doing things yet. Plus i've started chatting with someone who has done the conversion into their A3 3.2 (which was much more work than what i am doing wiring wise)



grantlack said:


> You may be forced to use the 3.2 section rather than the 3.6 based on differences in powertrain mounting geometry. I ran into some of that when sorting out a downpipe for the 2.5. One would expect it to continue to share with the Golf/GTI/etc platform, but it actually uses the slightly longer Passat dogbone mount to link to the subframe. Come to think of it, that may work in your favor vis a vis the R36's geometry.


Visually the dog bone mounts all look the same.... so i am hoping that i don't require the 3.6 one although if i do i have a source that has... hmmm 4 of them laying around! LOL


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Arm and bolts are all the same...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Picked this head unit up for cheap in a Mk 1.

Hooked it up with my home made Sony plug via the rca's to the connects2 kit then to a home made quad lock adaptor.

Works a treat and being able to tune the sound *properly* lets the oem speakers shine a little better then with the oem setup.









Its a tempoary fit till I a halo9 goes in !


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Arm and bolts are all the same...


Yep, just a curious bit of trivia since the TT is primarily Golf-based. The Golf arm is shorter, and pretty much all of the aftermarket replacements are incorrectly marketed as cross-compatible. As long as the tunnel accommodates, I'd expect either 3.2 or 3.6 to do ok.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Fuel gauge is reading so wrong (trip meter showing ~200kms travelled) where in one single trip it drops to 1/4 then back to full several times in the one driven. :lol:

I put this to the signal only coming from one level sender where the setup now has two ... so I am wiring up the 2nd Level sender to the cluster and at the same time might as well install PDC, the rest of the headlight wiring, front PDC wiring too & headlight level sensor wiring too


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ok here goes some wiring pics - this is the loom pulled from the donor car.










These were NOT my friend! i ruined 5 out of 6! near impossible to remove without breaking them because they are such a tight fit :x 









Here's the unwired portion of the Quattro tank









Feeding the Haldex/2nd sender loom through the lid


















The wiring is slightly different between the 07 and 09 where the 09 had blue dots on it's POWERTRAIN HI-CAN, and then the LOW-CAN seems to be a poo orange w/brown stripe on older instead of vibrant orange with brown stripe on newer


















I'm running the wires like this due to ease of fitment - as you've read previously I cut the 2nd level sender wires as far up the dash as i could on the passenger's side due to the rest of the loom running up behind the whole length of the dash to get to the cluster - this way will be easier for me.
Toward the centre console are wires for the instrument cluster, level signal and Haldex power to fuse panel
To the right are the Haldex ground and POWERTRAIN CAN-BUS wires









Some of the kit needed for the job - many extra runs of wiring was required to get the 2nd level sender wires all the way to the cluster (it made it about to just above the bonnet latch handle). <3 my Hakko









Inserting the two extra pins for accurate Quattro tank signal to cluster (this will require coding later)









This wire feeds into the sender wire from the pump side. Locations in pic description.
















You can see the brown w/blue stripe also runs to the cluster and the "coolant shortage" indication. They are all in their own network.

Adding to the fuse panel - you need to "unlock" the pink locking section... it is the teeeeniest of movements but does the trick

















Haldex pin inserted. A 10A mini fuse then goes here. Again this will also need activation/coding before it can work (i think i will just swap the modules over in the end)









I then wrapped this all up in loom tape and have tucked it down by where the OEM wiring runs.
The loom for the PDC has also been prepped and added to fuse #7 but it was too dark to take photos. Will show what it looks like when there's better light.

As for running wires from engine bay into the cabin for the headlights and front PDC - is there any other location other than this one that i spot? Maybe under the rain tray? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

I already know the correct coding for your abs. 2.0 engine have 5 different coding.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> I already know the correct coding for your abs. 2.0 engine have 5 different coding.


Great thank you for this info


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> Fuel gauge is reading so wrong (trip meter showing ~200kms travelled) where in one single trip it drops to 1/4 then back to full several times in the one driven. :lol:
> ...


You need to code the cluster for the fuel tank.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Your dismantled interior looks all too familiar!

Those carpet clips are nasty, I replaced mine with aftermarket ones that are not so rigid, but plenty sting enough to hold the carpet down

Any advice removing the fuse box? I've used a few piggyback fuses that I plan on wiring properly at some point

That grommet is what I've used, I believe their might be one somewhere behind the cluster which emerges under the scuttle panel but I'm not sure. Whatever you do, run an extra wire while you're at it as cruise control is an easy retrofit if you don't already have it. Single wire from steering wheel module to engine ECU


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Any advice removing the fuse box? I've used a few piggyback fuses that I plan on wiring properly at some point


It's a matter of remove the dash end cover, undo two torx bolts that secure the fuse panel, remove lower dash trim. Then cut the zip tie and cut back the fabric tape, pop the back cover off (3 tangs) to gain access to what you need 



























MT-V6 said:


> That grommet is what I've used, I believe their might be one somewhere behind the cluster which emerges under the scuttle panel but I'm not sure. Whatever you do, run an extra wire while you're at it as cruise control is an easy retrofit if you don't already have it. Single wire from steering wheel module to engine ECU


Luckily cruise is already optioned on mine.

I have found the easiest access to work with without having to cut that lower grommet. It's under the rain tray, under the wiper motors. Gives direct access to the area above the BCM. This is going to be the easiest way and the panel is actually very large so I'm happy I've found that option! It looks like it would be where the air vent would be installed in LHD cars but they've just put a blanking plate.

Found something very interesting while under there too!!! Will upload pics later.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> And the work is done!
> 
> Cluster removal and upgrade video -
> 
> ...


Do you still have the flash file used for the cluster? :roll:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > And the work is done!
> ...


Sorry i do not but if you get in touch with who i used the service - he can help you 

https://www.facebook.com/pg/Électrovag-1934433286788937/posts/ - he knows his stuff [smiley=dude.gif]


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Sorry i do not but if you get in touch with who i used the service - he can help you
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pg/Électrovag-1934433286788937/posts/ - he knows his stuff [smiley=dude.gif]


Is it done without removing the cluster?

I wasted alot of time downloading the stupid 15gig audi flashfile and ended up flashing the cluster with the latest version but did not unlock it. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry i do not but if you get in touch with who i used the service - he can help you
> ...


It requires cluster removal, soldering wires to comes points and then de soldering specific components. Get in touch with Electro and he can walk you through the process. I did outline it a little bit a few pages back ...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got my headlights fully functioning 
- LED DRL
- Bi-xenon flap actuation works too

Got the rear OPS swap done too and tested it out... changed the volume and tone (what is default?)

Pic of my DIY firewall bungs from above to come soon...

...then went to wire in the alarm chirp module .... and JUST when i was doing so well!!!


















DISASTER!

Can't get into any modules to see what exactly is going on but it's like the car is immobilised. However IMMO is ok! All interior functions work, lights all work, however no response to key fob, all modules are dead and I am thinking I fried the ecu [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

That's what I'm telling you before, you need to code the gateway and powersupply to interchange the modules.

The modules functions like laptop parts. Example wifi board, the laptop will work without the board installed but if you will interchange parts like wifi card for example from a different laptop, it will not boot. Try disconnecting a module then check vcds.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

yah the last module that i added and then tried to test was the Passat R36 comfort control module (CCM). Exactly the same plugs and shape (just different part number).

Previous to this i had cycled the ignition several times when checking for function of the Bi-xenon shutter & LED DRLs (which still works in this state). I coded these in the BCM but not in the CAN gateway

Then i installed the rear PDC, modules and wiring from the 3.2 - which seemed to work OK and i didn't do any coding change to the CAN gateway yet...

Then i was looking for a 6pin plug to be able to hook up the alarm chirp module and interior monitor sensors. This is when i saw that the R36 CCM already had these plugs... and hooked the R36 module straight up... and i was faced with the issue above!

I returned the TT 8J 3.2 CCM into the system but it still doesn't want to start and comes with the same errors in the video... one by one... Christmas Tree lights in the dash! :lol:

The next steps:
1) Remove the PDC from the system and de-solder the POWERTRAIN CANBUS lines
- test & scan

2) I will need to try and scan the CAN Gateway to see if that will show what is not playing nice - as a few of my go to helpers have said CANBUS is being messed with. I have also been reading this SSP where there are several instances where it is mentioned POWERTRAIN CAN _MUST NOT_ be joined to the other CANBUS systems.
- http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_269_d1.pdf

3) Keep going backwards with the modules that i've swapped until i can get it working again.

4) I am also suspect of this relay "614" which is a 70a feed for ECU. Getting quite hot when i touch it after cranking the engine (i can still hear the fuel pump prime when opening the door...) but i am not sure if it is supposed to get like in under normal conditions. If anyone can please verify that would be great!









Interesting to note - the modules (CCM, BCM) from the older car - seem to work a-ok in the newer car - without coding... (yes there are many errors but the car still starts and runs)


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Got the rear OPS swap done too and tested it out... changed the volume and tone (what is default?)


The values in my RNSE screenshot near the end of my post https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1837385 are pretty much the defaults (only exception is the 'front volume' should set to the same as the 'rear frequency'. Pretty much the opposites of the rear sensors)

As for the 614 relay, I can try and check mine at some point for you

Good luck working out the issue. You mention joining the powertrain canbus to other canbus networks? I've always assumed all the canbus networks must remain separate in my retrofits?


----------



## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> > I have found the easiest access to work with without having to cut that lower grommet. It's under the rain tray, under the wiper motors. Gives direct access to the area above the BCM. This is going to be the easiest way and the panel is actually very large so I'm happy I've found that option! It looks like it would be where the air vent would be installed in LHD cars but they've just put a blanking plate.


Looks like I'm too late on this one, but I would strongly advise use of the grommet. That area of the engine bay stays nice and dry in even the nastiest weather, whereas the rain tray has a pretty straightforward name to it. I went the HVAC blanking panel route when I shaved the engine bay on my MK5, and even with reasonable degree of sealing precaution there were noticeable corrosive effects at some CECM terminals when I pulled the harness for scrap.

as far as the canbus malfunctions, do I have it right that you soldered the actual hi/lo lines? wouldn't have been my move, as it can be picky about termination resistances. Hopefully you spliced into individual wires and not at the main ultrasonic welded crimp. That would be the first thing I cut out and mechanically crimped, then chase for shorts at any exposed/edited nodes. This may be an instance where you have to clear the codes before the gateway will attempt again.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I am up and running again!!!

So the issue ...

My powertrain wiring is correct but when I squeeze together the CAN wires. It makes the car do many beeps.

Unwrapped the power/info/conv. CAN meeting point and squeeze it together again just to check.

Surely enough it makes the beeps go nuts.

Separated away the info and conv. CANS - squeezes those together. No beeps. 
With the powertrain CAN separated from the other pairs I squeezed those together (I still had these wrapped in electrical tape, separately, and then the pairs bound together) = BEEPS!

Once the powertrain was separated from the other two CAN's and its pair - it was all good again! No more flashing "P" and car starts up! Cleared codes and we are all good.

Now I know to keep these well insulated from each other.



grantlack said:


> Looks like I'm too late on this one, but I would strongly advise use of the grommet. That area of the engine bay stays nice and dry in even the nastiest weather, whereas the rain tray has a pretty straightforward name to it. I went the HVAC blanking panel route when I shaved the engine bay on my MK5, and even with reasonable degree of sealing precaution there were noticeable corrosive effects at some CECM terminals when I pulled the harness for scrap.


Excellent feedback - I have re cycled the tail light grommets and modded the blanking panel. Pics to follow and I think it will be a super sound solution.



grantlack said:


> as far as the canbus malfunctions, do I have it right that you soldered the actual hi/lo lines? wouldn't have been my move, as it can be picky about termination resistances. Hopefully you spliced into individual wires and not at the main ultrasonic welded crimp. That would be the first thing I cut out and mechanically crimped, then chase for shorts at any exposed/edited nodes. This may be an instance where you have to clear the codes before the gateway will attempt again.


You are right. I soldered into that crimp - what do you recommend to mechanically crimp it together?

I will do some further testing to see if I can reproduce the issue but so far I still have the solder on there but they are just apart from each other and apart from the info/convenience CAN pairs. And the car is running again. I think the electrical tape VS the oem tape on the ends is very thin! It's like a need to find an electrically insulated type of tape and not regular tape.
Wonder if that is available.

All in the fun and games!!! Hahaha


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Got the rear OPS swap done too and tested it out... changed the volume and tone (what is default?)
> ...


Thanks for those default values! Good to have and no need to check the relay


----------



## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

There is a specific Audi tech. note relating to repairing CAN wires. It should be amongst the manuals that SJP has posted.

There is also a specific instruction against using soldered joints anywhere on the car. That may be avoid the chance of an Audi "technician" dropping a hot soldering iron on seats or trim.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Glad it's up and running again

As for soldering, I've soldered all my joints and not had issues, I favour it over crimps, scotch locks etc as I think it's a neater finish

As for canbus I've spliced into them in various places, usually near the gateway, but the convenience and infotainment in the boot area too. I make sure my new wires are paired and twisted, and all my wires are wrapped in cloth tape. Joints are preferably insulated with heat shrink, or when not possible electrical tape

No issues so far, always up for improving my techniques though


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Glad it's up and running again
> 
> As for soldering, I've soldered all my joints and not had issues, I favour it over crimps, scotch locks etc as I think it's a neater finish
> 
> ...


- lol i am so glad too! Didn't know the canbus could be so delicate!

- i too like to solder anywhere i can VS the other connection methods. I think my error was in using PVC tape and having them too close together without enough tape insulating the powertrain pairs.

ONTO THE UPDATES! PRE-CANBUS DISASTER PICS

Ripped these out of the 3.2









Made a stencil by tracing the outline of the hole placing a piece of card from behind









I think this will be a very sound option - ensured they point "down" and will just seal off the "entrance" with cloth tape to prevent moisture ingress









What's going to go through those ex-tail light grommets? headlight, PDC, leveller and xenon washer/heated washer fluid wiring!









You can see where this white wire for the bi-xenon flap comes from - the other side of the BCM cradle. These bi-xenon motor control wires need to be fed into their relevant BCM plugs









T11c Brown 11pin plug / 8 (front left)
T11b Black 11pin plug / 5 (front right)









In order to remove the plug and pin the red and pink locking mechanisms need shifting or removal respectively









I needed to go in and recode the lights as well as the Haldex fuel tank
Happy chappy! LED's now working!








HOWEVER - the bi-xenon flap was not working on the left side! I found this a bit strange as the RHS one worked no problems and as per wiring diagram. After some thought i came to the conclusion that the plugs they wire to control each headlight. They are both 11 pin plugs so one of the pins must just need a change. So i switched them around to make sure the motor in itself wasn't faulty. When i swapped them around - sure enough the left hand side's bi-xenon shutter activates and the right hand side's one doesn't. So that eliminates that issue. My next train of thought was to measure the voltage that comes out of the working side - 12v is given to the motor to raise it for full high beams. I tested pin 8 at the brown plug... when high beams activated they gave hardly any voltage - resulting in a dash error. I couldn't interrogate the other pins for power due to the design of the plugs where my prob can't get down far enough so what did i do?
Ended up shifting the wire from #8 to #6 - nothing, (#5 was already taken), #7 = BINGO! :mrgreen: 
Both flapper motors now work and the dash error disappears! Strange that the schematic is wrong...

And here is the coding effect on the cluster for an AWD tank - much better!









Now i turn my focus to the alarm chirp module - i was missing the 6 pin plug directly next to the big plug for the CCM - i also swapped the CCM for the newer version "B"...









I needed to open the module up slightly to release the plug - you can see the wires were cut WAY too close to the plug to be able to work with. Removing the locking mech. and de-pinning was the only way to be able to extend the wires to something useful...








Wires are as follows
1 (signal) > 6 in 6 pin plug (one of the big legs)
2 (GND)
3 (12v) > engine fuse box position 5









... then of course this is when the whole plan went to shambles!!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Where the culprit, as noted above, were the bloody POWERTRAIN CANBUS wires i worked with - the problem ones were on the driver's side.
Here's what gives me an error free car again








The bundle on the left gives a good later of insulation - i need to build the right one up a little bit more but had run out of the Tesa tape








- these can all now be bundled up again and hidden

Finally - picking up from the disaster CANBUS issue - testing the alarm chirp module








The characteristic i have coded in are alarm on both lock and unlock but it only seems to chirp once on the lock. How is everyone else's behaving/coded in? I thought on unlock it would chirp x2? hmmm...


----------



## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

tttony said:


> There is a specific Audi tech. note relating to repairing CAN wires. It should be amongst the manuals that SJP has posted.
> 
> There is also a specific instruction against using soldered joints anywhere on the car. That may be avoid the chance of an Audi "technician" dropping a hot soldering iron on seats or trim.


VAG has learned a lot of expensive lessons with solder, especially in their door latches and window modules. The terminal pins for window modules are actually press-fit rather than soldered these days, likely after all the repair costs incurred from vibration-induced cold jointing on MK4 VWs. I used to be a "lineman's splice everything" guy, but soldered joints really do get quite brittle and break-prone over time. The opportunity to evaluate how my work had aged in teardown made me re-evaluate a lot. I've since migrated to uninsulated barrel crimps (properly sized and properly crimped) with adhesive-lined shrink to finish. All that being said, solder is probably fine on most of the interior harness given that it can be properly secured and given ample slack. Where I'd really lose faith is on the exposed and poorly supported (dare I say "dangly"  ) bits, like replacing pigtails of engine bay harness.

Ian, I'd suggest the additional step of packing your bonus harnesses with that bitumen gunk that they include from factory at the firewall grommets. This will help provide a barrier to moisture/oil/etc wicking up the bundle. I was cured of my "this seems a bit much" attitude toward the tar after not only my own anecdotal data, but seeing some tech photos of oil wicked into an ECU plug via the sensor harness. 

glad you've got the electronics back on the mend, bound to have a few hiccups. soldier on!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

grantlack said:


> tttony said:
> 
> 
> > There is a specific Audi tech. note relating to repairing CAN wires. It should be amongst the manuals that SJP has posted.
> ...


God how does oil travel up into an ECU plug!?!?! unless someone spilled some in that area - i don't see how it could get there LOL

did you have a pic of the bitumen gunk? I'm not sure if we have that here in Australia - what about sikaflex?
I am thinking you suggest i fill up the remainder of the gaps where the wires would go through those two tail light bungs?


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> God how does oil travel up into an ECU plug!?!?! unless someone spilled some in that area - i don't see how it could get there LOL


since the wire bundle has small voids, liquids are able to travel up these voids via capillary action. you'll see the same effect in an individual run of stranded wire that hasn't been sufficiently protected. I see it discussed more often now that I've gone even further down the rabbit hole of bespoke harness construction.



ianpgonzaga said:



> did you have a pic of the bitumen gunk? I'm not sure if we have that here in Australia - what about sikaflex?
> I am thinking you suggest i fill up the remainder of the gaps where the wires would go through those two tail light bungs?


none at the moment, it's basically just a gummy black tar-like substance. very stretchy/sticky with some self-amalgamating properties. not sure how it's marketed exactly, as thusfar I've managed to harvest enough from old firewall grommets. it'll be in your spare harness at the firewall as well, should you wish to wrestle with all that tape. you'll want a good seal between bundle and grommet, but the halting of the capillary action is especially key *between* the bundled wires. i'm not sure that the exact product is as important as the concept, but to me the ideal properties would be maintaining adhesion and tolerating bundle flex. this stuff is great because it never "cures" and thus won't split/crumble in flexion.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks @grantlack for this advice - i'm going to seal up every connection that i've de=pinned and repaired and my upcycled firewall grommet blanking wiring with some of this stuff - sounds like exactly what is needed.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/liquid-electrical-tape-thread-locker-black/p/NM2832

Have only ever done plug and play stuff and not really run "full" wiring looms to in-cabin before so this is news to me.

On another interesting note - here's a video of how this phenomenon occurs


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I ended up figuring out how to activate the double chirp for unlock. Had to finalise the coding via the cluster!









I've gotten a little sick and staying indoors so i don't want to do any more wiring until i'm better. In the meantime i turn focus to the software side of things.
I know i need to get IMMO, VIN, KEY etc. data *IF* i want it to match and have a functioning immobiliser. This would be the most ideal and i have done it before with the 8L platform so i will only IMMO defeat if there's no other way. I know what data i need but in this platform it is encrypted meaning special software are required to be able to read and write in the way the ECU & Cluster like to see things.

This is the R36 CCM where some critical data is stored. It needs opening up and EEPROM read.
















This is the tricky part #1 - locating (and finding the info) which chip has the data you want

















Now i wasn't able to read it with the chip still attached so i needed to remove from the board - tricky part #2 - so the clip could make good contact.
















Tricky part #3 occured when the chip pinged off of the clip and i had to scour the floor for it! 

After that i get the data from the R36 ECU - again it needs opening to gain access to the PCB. I used this page to help guide me through safely opening the case as i've never done this model before. It's harder than ME7.x.x ECU's!
https://www.car-auto-repair.com/edc16-edc17-med17-ecu-opening-guide/

Almost there!









I could get a read off the 91560 easily as the board isn't as cramped and the clip can seat nicely on the legs in situ.









For now i'm just going to pop these components, opened in a zip loc bag due tot he fact that i might still need direct chip access and it's easier to leave them open rather than sealing up and needed to pry again.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Lots more wiring being done! Trying to get all this functioning before a trip up north where the bi - xenon / AFS will come in very nicely on the dark country roads.

*Front level sensor*
Bolted the front sensor in (I'm making this up but I feel the way I have it is correct - open to feedback for clarification)
















I needed to relocate one of the pins as it was wired up differently to the wiring diagram.









*Alarm module*
Then I focussed on installing the alarm in the correct spot (I only had it wired up to the battery and the CCM to test)








Need to be careful that the wire run is not in the way of the main drainage. The arrow points to where I'll run the wiring for the alarm. 








Tessa taping the section of wiring until it gets under the rain tray









The wheel arch hole enters the engine bay behind the brake fluid reservoir








Then I needed to take a fuse plug from my spares box and wire it into the engine bay's fuse box. Black row #5









*Front OPS*
Next is working on front OPS wiring. I have correct the plugs from the R36 and luckily both ends! All I need to do is extend the wiring runs.
















Once all the wires are attached I place the 8pin plug (only 6 locations are used) down where there's a void in the arch and can run these wires through the rain tray al the way back to the parking module









This is the 'plan' all mapped out









*Front footwell lights diagram*
Lastly, the wiring diagram for front foot well lights. Will need to add an extra pin at the BCM too


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The German Auto Day I went to over the weekend had some AWESOME cars.

































































































I only hope my build can make a mark!!!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

:lol: 
This is a pic of testing wiring / modules before cutting things up... looks OEM .... right? :mrgreen: 









Using the parking module from the 3.2 Quattro and trying to code the front OPS to turn on resulted in the coding not accepted and being out of range [smiley=bigcry.gif]

*So i tried the part from the R36 and... well it works! I am also using the R36 buzzer.*








Had to turn off the tow bar option but it wasn't a necessary step to get it working. Using a higher tone for the front speaker and a lower tone for the rear speaker, volume Lv. 4.

Now just gotta cut the hole out in the facelift bumper and wrap up the bumper wiring loom. Almost there with these wiring retrofits. Thanks to all the well written guides from the members who have previously contributed!

Last few things to wire up - rear levelling sensor wiring, AFS module, footwell lights and puddle lights (ideally would like the "laser logo" but that can come later)


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What coding options does that module have?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> What coding options does that module have?


I don't think there's anything remarkable ... except the car options are clearly VW

































Do you see anything different?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is the grommet that requires removal for the rear level sensor wiring to run through which I am attaching to the main battery cable then running down the driver's side. 









It will then go up and behind the instrument cluster to be wired up and module stored on the bar behind the cluster


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Need help everyone!
I can't figure out how this is meant to mount and can't find any reference pics online. 









Does anybody have a clear photo showing how the bracket and sensor are mounted ?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Found this, gives a rough location if you ignore the fact they've wrapped it in duck tape!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey Barry,

Thanks for that but i already have the front one sorted out :wink:

It is the *rear* i am after...

These are the best pics i can find so far but still quite unclear to me [smiley=bigcry.gif] - i have the proper 8J part number but it just doesn't seem to locate very well with the holes that are already there...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I still can't figure out the mounting of that rear level sensor [smiley=bomb.gif]

However my list of wiring is mostly ticked off with just the footwell lights to be wired up and coded in. Think I will also swap in the newer CAN Gateway too.
















The mounting holes for the AFS module are smack back right there.

CALLOUT FOR HELP: If anyone would be able to take the time to show how the rear level sensors are mounted I would greatly appreciate it :mrgreen:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

As i keep trying to look for more information i am getting more confused! LOL

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tts+coupe+roadster/att/2009-609/9/941-941025/#6
It seems there are part numbers for levelling sensors for all 4 corners...

However my wiring diagrams states there are only front left and rear left for setups without magride.... Can i please have help verifying this too?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The byte 1 mute option is different, does that work? Mine only have the volume lowering adaptation which is a bit hit and miss whether it does lower it...

Also the illustration adaptation is different, what options does that have?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> The byte 1 mute option is different, does that work? Mine only have the volume lowering adaptation which is a bit hit and miss whether it does lower it...
> 
> Also the illustration adaptation is different, what options does that have?


I'll take a screenshot tomorrow  forgot to do so cuz was busy buttoning things up!
Sealing off my DIY undertray wiring entrance









Looms taped up and zip tied. Looms include: headlight CAN > AFS, bi-xenon flap motor, all front PDC, alarm module and headlight washer wire









While I was there repaired this no longer sticky foam pad - removed the old dirt caked ones with new double sided, outdoor grade stuff









Then re-coding some modules to turn them on. I am still getting the AFS error and I feel that my rear sensor is busted, wrong or wiring is not correct. Oh yeah ... I figured out that I have the RHS one! I put it on that side and guess what - everything located perfectly :lol:

Even though I'm getting the error, doing an output (after changing the coding from 255 to the correct car model) test tells me that at least most of my wiring to the AFS module are correct - I don't think the full output test would work if I had wired something wrong ...









... rear level sender mystery continues... as I can't do the basic settings


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Try setting the cornering light to xenon at central electronic.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Try setting the cornering light to xenon at central electronic.


Ok thanks. I will try a different setting.

I've also discovered my fog lights no longer work hmmmm...

In other news we are looking more and more FrankenTTein than ever! Installed front PDC (definitely the worst job... cutting the back skin where the headlight washers mount, without the correct tools, is a scary feeling) and I thought I'd break through the other side of the bumper. Luckily. I did not.









































:lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have got everything buttoned up for the road trip north!









And to accompany the navi. and music functions is this amazing headunit that I was fantasising about getting and one happened to pop up at an EXCELLENT price. I am very VERY happy with it and the interior is much more updated with this unit installed. Model is an Alpine F309e Halo9 (the letter on the end will differ depending on your country)









I am still to set up the EQ and TA properly but as you can see the everything works nicely, there is steering wheel control integration and also a bunch of extras that I can't wait to connect up!

Time to look for a subwoofer to make use of the 3x pre out plugs and give some proper bass to the oem amplified setup (which now actually sounds ok due to the Alpine's DSP)

Happy driving 8)


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

This is going to cause a stir, defo not oem, but looks very interesting. Based on single din might give option for other stuff. Its great you went for something different. We now need all the install info [smiley=book2.gif]
+1 I like it  .............................. also liking your 'youtube' stuff [smiley=dude.gif]

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/Sin ... /iLX-F903D


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TTsdsgomg said:


> This is going to cause a stir, defo not oem, but looks very interesting. Based on single din might give option for other stuff. *Its great you went for something different. *We now need all the install info [smiley=book2.gif]
> +1 I like it  .............................. also liking your 'youtube' stuff [smiley=dude.gif]
> 
> https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/Sin ... /iLX-F903D


That's me and my cars. Making it "mine" and install things for increased functionality/convenience. Have finished a 6 hour drive with this Alpine unit at the helm and it has been pretty faultless! 
Easy navigation, changing music is made even easier with larger than usual icons. It is very responsive once up and running.

One minor gripe is the contrast in bright light gives the maps a very washed out pool when issuing Google Maps but when there's a route highlighted in blue does the rear really matter?

I will make an install guide when I have to dig back into the rear of the unit - possibly when I find a shallow mount sub or when some extra functions to it but basically it is the same as using any single din installation. Then the screen literally pushes into the main unit and there's a "power panel" that allows the screen to function. That is it. Then adjustment of the screen as in my video.

Thanks for appreciating g video content  heaps more good stuff to come!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have had one mild hiccup where the Alpine unit required to be powered off and the CAN to sleep. Noticed CarPlay wouldn't connect and the time was frozen. After the reset all was good again.

Gathered more parts for later on down the track

















In this hoard of goodies are (all from a Golf Mk5 R32)
- VR6 manual KPD gearbox and manual 3.2 transfer case (engine is a BUB)
- R32 clutch, brake and accelerator pedals
- manual gear linkages and cables (with DieselGeek short shifter and shortened shifter shaft)
- some of the clutch switch's pigtail 
- clutch hard line from MC to bleeder valve 
- brake booster + link to MC

For now this is all going to be put aside but it should be mostly everything I need to do the auto > manual conversion


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Clearer pic of the kit


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

*Fixed the AFS issue!*
I definitely had the wrong sensor as this one i picked up from a Golf Mk5 R32 was installed correctly in 5 minutes and once the car started - no AFS dash error at all!

Here is the correct unit! :lol: ... and reference pictures of how it should be mounted as i couldn't find ANY clear ones anywhere. Note the angle of the arm... it MUST be like this and not "inverted" otherwise it will show as an error.









Mind the zip ties! LOL They'll be removed once the correct fittings are in.









































Then follow basic settings procedure (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Headlight_Aim_Control_(Xenon_with_AFS))

































While going through i noticed there are different options for the DRLs - does anyone have the info on what these mean exactly?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Scandinavia is front DRLs only
and
North America is front and rear headlights

I think 

Would you mind sharing the part numbers for the AFS parts please? As I intend to do the same eventually


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Bit 3 - Scandinavia = DRL with Tail Light ON

I really hate Bi-Xenon Headlight because the projector is limiting the range and focusing the high beam on a very narrow spot. I struggle really hard just to see the road when it's raining. It's also hard to see if a road has water buildup and poth holes.

Best all weather light combination
Tri-color Wagner Night Defense Yellowish Low beam (Halogen) + Super White High Bean (Halogen)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Scandinavia is front DRLs only
> and
> North America is front and rear headlights
> 
> ...


... so there are rear tail lights that have DRL's in them too? Or does that light up the parker light?

*PARTS LIST FOR HALOGEN TO AFS W/LED DRL's CONVERSION*

*8J2 052 180 A *- This kit should cover AFS DRL headlights, ballast and bulbs otherwise see below to source individual parts

*8J0 941 029 AF* - Left RHD (AA for LHD)
*8J0 941 030 AF *- Right RHD (AA for LHD)
- if you don't get the bulbs & ballasts with your kit then you'll want those too - PN's can be found here https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tts+coupe+roadster/att/2009-609/9/941-941012/#1

*1J0 973 737 *- 14 pin plug
You will need something to adapt your 10pin plug over to 14pins if you don't want to directly cut and mod the 10pin plug already there on a Halogen setup https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...rchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_52

*4L0 907 357* - Headlight range control module

*8J0 941 273 F* - Front left headlight range control level sensor
*8J0 941 309 A *- Rear left headlight range control level sensor (as mentioned i am using one from a Golf Mk5. PN 1K0 941 273 M	)
*4B0 973 712 (A)* - 4 pin plug - i would recommend to source an oem unit off a wreck and not off aliexpress because the oem unit will have the rubber boot on it plus the 3 wires are encapsulated in a thick black layer running for about 20cm of the length of the wire to help prevent water creeping up the wires. You may need the A version depending on the male side of the plug.
*N 10434301 + N 10597701 *- bolt and rivet nut to hold the sensor & arm bracket in of which 5 are required

Then the relevant small pins required to hook into the BCM + wires. 
Make sure to get twisted pair CAN wires for the run that goes from each headlight, then joins, then goes to the headlight range control module

That should be it


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Thanks a lot!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I found some door connectors at a local wreckers so can soldier on with adding a 4" driver to the door (my system is not a Bose). So door off and strip ...
































I have stuck these in with JB Weld which needs a 24hr cure (OEM fitment there is a stud that is riveted in but I don't have this tool)









Next I am testing which pins to use for puddle lights (after coding) mine are pins 18 +ve and 19 -ve
















Driver's side 19 was already occupied with a ground so I just hooked into that for the puddle lights









Might go a bit quiet now while I sort this one out ...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Bought a simple nutsert riveter that contained M5 rivets to properly mount the rear level sensor (rather than zip tie :lol

Just bought this from eBay for not much. Any kit with an M5 insert shall do

















Inserting the bottom 3

















... the top two was kind of a bodge however I didn't feel like removing the driveshaft which would be the only way to get the rivets in properly so I have used my next best friend - JB Weld (gotta wait overnight to cure)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The time where you ALMOST bolt the gearbox into the engine ... but don't. Lol.


















Also - these arrived <3


















Will a while before they go on though :roll:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got these facelift side skirts at a good price! This will finish off "the look" nicely!

Not quite full facelift but not quite pre facelift so not your every day look.

















Now when I was removing the skirts I felt like the only way to remove it easily (without being there forever as the car was only being lifted by a forklift) was to break these 4 fittings [smiley=bigcry.gif] 









They are definitely in there very tight with section left in the body side looking like there isn't even access from behind to remove them without damaging and replacing with new parts.


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## tdi_van (Nov 13, 2014)

those clips always brake when remove the skirts. they are very cheap from dealer no not a big problem


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I figured that anyone doing body work on these would be replacing them all the time!

Have ordered them and they are quite cheap. Which is a surprise!

8J0853909 - side skirt clips x8 $5AUD ea
8J0853909A - scuff plate clips x8 $1AUD ea

I remember ordering a wiring plug for the steering wheel column. Tiny thing only 2cmx2cmx.5cm and it was $25 [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## tdi_van (Nov 13, 2014)

ianpgonzaga said:


> I figured that anyone doing body work on these would be replacing them all the time!
> 
> Have ordered them and they are quite cheap. Which is a surprise!
> 
> ...


you may need some of 8E0825267 ( they are 16 ) . they also cost me less than 0.10€ each

i never had to change any 8J0853909A , never broke one in the skirts i have changed.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

tdi_van said:


> you may need some of 8E0825267 ( they are 16 ) . they also cost me less than 0.10€ each


ahhh yes those underneath ones! I managed to keep some of them but i think it is a good idea to refresh - will order



tdi_van said:


> i never had to change any 8J0853909A , never broke one in the skirts i have changed.


what is your trick? haha any special angles to remove at?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I've got LED DRL's in the front and the Scandinavian DRL tail lights set up on mine. Easy code changes as noted -

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1643570


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

That is how I have my bi xenons set up but I am pretty sure the Scandinavian option is not on.

This resource should demistify all the options!

*Headlight Coding Options*

*[09] - Central Electronics*
Lighting
All modifications are found in Found in [Coding - 07] > Long Coding Helper unless otherwise noted. Click on each of the Bytes and Bits for the documented options and check or un-check the appropriate boxes as shown in the example below:
[Select]
[09 - Cent. Elect.] Or the module you intend on tweaking as per the list below
[Coding - 07]
[Long Coding Helper]
Click on each of the Byte numbers in row 3) and you'll see the selectable options below. Check or Un-check the boxes for the desired results. Example: Daytime Running Lights (North America)
Close the Long Coding Helper by clicking the Windows X box on the top right of the screen or clicking the Exit button on the top left of the screen to send your altered Coding value back to the Coding screen.
[Do It!]

*Daytime Running Lights* - The systems are coded differently depending on the market:
"Daytime Running Lights (Scandinavia) active" should result in ALL exterior lights running
"Daytime Running Lights (North America)" should result in headlights Only lights running

*Fogs as Daytime Running Lights when applicable*
Enable "Daytime Running Light via Fog Lights"

*Daytime Running Lights Dimming If DRLs are Halogen bulbs (not Xenon) *the dimming resolution may be adjusted.
Select the Byte with "Daytime Running Lights Dimming" "Decimal Value (Resolution: 1%)" and alter the value. 
Additional Light Dimming bits are available for other lighting circuits.

*Front and /or Rear Fog Light dimming behavior with High Beams or Trailer*
Depending on equipment level, additional coding bits may be available.
Front Fog Lights deactivated with High Beam
Rear Fog Light Deactivation with Trailer active

*Cornering Lights via Front Fog Lights active when applicable*
Enable "Internal Turn Light Control Algorithm active" 
Next, Enable "Turn Lights via Fog Lights" 
Additional [Adaptation - 10] options may be available for dimming duration activation/deactivation
Notes: After Cornering Lights via Front Fog Lights is active, the lights may work under the following conditions:
The headlights must be turned on and the steering wheel must be in the turning direction.
The headlights must be turned on and the turn signal must be on in the turning direction.
NB: the TT's high line model BCM's have way more cornering light options than what this post shows

*Comfort Turn signals*
Comfort Turn signals may be turned On -or- Off via coding. The number of flashes cannot be adjusted.

*Emergency Brake Warning active The Brake Lights should flash under Panic stopping conditions.*
Enable "Emergency Brake Flash Light active"

*Coming Home / Leaving Home*
Modifications are found in Found in [Coding - 07] > Long Coding Helper. Click on each of the Bytes and Bits for the documented options and check and un-check the appropriate boxes. Additional Adaptation -10 Channels should be available after enabling coding options. 
Coming Home Several Bits may control CH options such as On / Off and Manual or Automatic.
"Rain-/Light sensor installed"
"Coming-Home active"
"Coming-Home Logic (0 = Old / 1 = New)"
Note:If the vehicle is not equipped with an "Auto" headlight switch and a (RLS) light sensor the results may vary. The description should be found in your owner's manual.
Leaving Home
"Coming-Home Mode via (0 = Personalization / 1 = Lightsensor)"
"Assistance Driving Light & Leaving Home active"
"Leaving-Home Variant (0 = LH in LDS / 1 = No LH in LDS)"

(http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf/Jetta/Bora_(1K/5M)_Tweaks)


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## tdi_van (Nov 13, 2014)

ianpgonzaga said:


> what is your trick? haha any special angles to remove at?


no trick, just never broke any of those orange ones


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ok well i hope to have the same luck as you! haha

As the Mk1 has become priority these two need to be mated up so they take up less space - so up goes the engine...

















... and after a little bit of wiggling i had the two mated up!

















and last but not least attaching the transfer case: the 3 bolt flange on the left drives the propshaft which is connected to the rear diff/Haldex.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

With the AFS lights do you have a module for each headlight? Or are they sub components of the main xenon range module?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> With the AFS lights do you have a module for each headlight? Or are they sub components of the main xenon range module?


Sub components of the AFS module (in cabin). Each side has their own module/igniter (the silver flat box on each light) then they connect via twisted pair CAN-bus 
> to the AFS module. 
Twisted pair from each headlight > merge > join rest of CAN network


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Just to be clear

1) AFS module (which is a version of the standard xenon range module? Ie you don't have both?) -> to headlight 14 pin connector

2) There are canbus wires from the AFS module to the headlight 14 pin connectors, amongst others?

3) there are no direct external wires to the ignitors/ballasts (only wires internal to the light assembly)?

4) the ignitors/ballasts are the same between AFS and non-AFS lights?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

1 (correct - you have one or the other and they are the same between various model Audi's), 2 and 3) should be answered by these

















4) that I'm not too sure of but I would predict they are slightly different. I'd have to dig into the wiring diagrams to double check


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The main thing I wondered was that the canbus is only between the lights and the xenon module, ie not between the lights and the gateway?

4) what part numbers are on them? As they don't have any Audi markings it makes it harder to look up, but I believe they are 1 307 329 193 or 1 307 329 193 01 (the 4 screw versions)?

Thanks for the help. I have some xenons on the way to probably fit early next year, but I would still like to eventually fit AFS ones, so I will add the extra wires as I go


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

4) I don't have the car with me as I do these other engine swaps so I can't update you with the PN but will do so when the car is back with me. Looking at the eBay ad post they should be 8E0941329A

So yes the canbus wires from the 14 pin plug join to each other to feed into the headlight range module. The CAN gateway doesn't have a direct connection. It's it's own mini network. Sorry I wasn't clear before...

So if you are going to fit AFS lights after you got the xenons... that means you'll be buying 2 sets of headlights ? Wouldn't you be (financially) better off just going straight for the AFS option as the non-AFS xenon headlights won't have the motors in them for that function?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Thanks, when you do get a change I'd still be interested in the ballast parts numbers as on the label, just because they are the OEM Automotive Lighting part numbers that are easier to search for secondhand 

Thanks for clearing that up re the canbus, I'll run those wires anyway just to be prepared. Been spending my evening looking over Elsawin but it's not always clear

And yes it would probably be cheaper but I've managed to get some non AFS units pretty cheap and was impatient. I could make my money back on them I reckon, but I'll bee keeping my eye out for good condition AFS units still


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

@ MT-V6 I have the car back again so I can check out the ballast info for you soon 

I am now looking to get the propshaft brackets and rear fuel tank bracket welded in but need some info on metal thickness.

This is the aluminium prop tunnel









The bracket in the OEM location









Then there's the steel floor of the boot for the final nut of the fuel tank mount









- my question is: *anyone know the thickness of the aluminium tunnel walls and steel floor?*


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Happy New Year everyone :mrgreen:

I'm guessing by the no replies this info is scarce. I'm going to measure the front fender panels as they are also aluminium and roll with that measurement.

In the meantime ... can anyone guess what I'm doing here?


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Don't have a clue lol


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Happy New Year everyone :mrgreen:
> 
> I'm guessing by the no replies this info is scarce. I'm going to measure the front fender panels as they are also aluminium and roll with that measurement.
> 
> In the meantime ... can anyone guess what I'm doing here?


Fixing a leaking boot lol sorry anything boot related for me means leaks at the moment.

Honest answer is no idea.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Measuring volume of boot storage or making a mold?

Steve


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

> can anyone guess what I'm doing here?


Measuring the volume of the recess for a sub?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

hahaha

I'm a lucky one without any water ingress issues - because we seem to be very much lacking that in Australia at the moment [smiley=bigcry.gif]

It's a healthy 27L full to the brim (which can be increased by cutting more foam out from the base if needed) i'll need to recess the mounting ring to give room for driver excursion but am happy with the available volume. Easily enough for the sub i am planning to go in with.

Updating this with a measure of the depth of the "spare wheel well"









At 98mm this gives me plenty of room to recess the mounting ring (driver I am using has a depth of 85.7mm).


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## grantlack (Aug 3, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> *anyone know the thickness of the aluminium tunnel walls and steel floor?*


plenty of grommets to pop out in the back with enough clearance to get calipers in there. for the tunnel, I don't recall any grommets to be found but you can always drop the shifter and measure there. should be a pretty good ballpark of the side thickness, and surely better than the fender.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

grantlack said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > *anyone know the thickness of the aluminium tunnel walls and steel floor?*
> ...


ahhhh yes! smart thinking 99! lol



grantlack said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > for the tunnel, I don't recall any grommets to be found but you can always drop the shifter and measure there. should be a pretty good ballpark of the side thickness, and surely better than the fender.


and again!

For shits and giggles i'll measure the fender as well and post up lol


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ok so the rear steel boot floor thickness = *1.5mm*

Transmission tunnel thickness = *2.5mm*

Fender thickness


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

I think tunnel be 2.1mm

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks Hogg. Will confirm when I've gotten under that area again.

Meantime I'm adding some bass since the OEM non-Bose setup doesn't have a sub to take care of the part of the music that sounds and feels great. This is going to be developed so for now I'm just going to get this working and refining will come later.

This is the sub amp I've chosen - nice and small. JL XD600/1









Setting up power to the amp - using 4AWG cable.








Recycling a 50A fuse from a mk4 fuse panel









Ready to crimp the OFC cable









Fused 12v cable bolted down









Now to find the amp turn on signal...








It ended up being pin#14 that gets 12v when IGN on
















Splicing into the green w/yellow wire to give the signal for the JL amp to turn on

I tinned the ends for the remote amp and subwoofer input wires, attached the 12v and GND cables and turned on IGN. We are good :mrgreen: green light means GO!









Next post is bringing the signal from the HU to the amp.


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

It appears that the output end of the new 50A Fuse is unsupported and with the heavy supply cable hanging off it. That's not a good idea.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hmmm ok. Any suggestions how to support it?

What would be the downside to it with its current setup?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

I'd use a proper fuse holder with cover.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Great thanks.

Are there any thoughts on running RCA leads from the rear of the head unit VS converting speaker wire at the amp loom over to RCA's?

Would there be a difference in sound quality if not using the RCA's out the back of the HU?

The adapter kit I've used is the connects2 AUDI TT CTSAD002.2 which RCA's are giving signal back to the factory amp...


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

I would always prefer using the line level outputs from the HU. They should, in theory, give you the better sound quality, but we are, after all, only talking about a car acoustic environment.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I ended up stripping the centre console and laying down all the cables for future upgrades.









I got this whole set for a bargain price. Gauge inside the blue sheath is more than adequate. I was afraid that they wouldn't feed through the centre console well due to size.

So here goes stripping things back again to have everything routed neatly. 
















I'm running one set of 3 down the passenger side. Then other set on the driver's side. 
















Ended up being super lucky here in that the RCA plugs are small enough to fit through the dip in the floor panel under the back rests.

Time to fire it up and test it all works 








After verifying all systems are go I started putting trims back together and finalised the RCA runs 
















I also disconnected the centre speaker for better stereo separation









Here you can see the depth the box takes - I still have quite a lot of of boot space. You can also see there is plenty of space to either 
- mount an amp. In there 
- mount maybe 2 amps in there! Again I'm checking out a lot of options so this all can be as stealth as possible.

Now for the finishing touches. 








Had to get rid of the blue Alpine splash screen - still made sure there is representation of the brand. I like how this is a more OEM + feel. 








Finally you can see the box fits perfectly under the faux shelf, it doesn't pass it at all depth wise! I think I will have it facing the other way though to make sure if I load the boot up the face doesn't get damaged.

All that is left is to tune the setup, Velcro things into place and enjoy the much much MUCH more fuller sound I'm getting. So happy with it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Bet it was fun getting all those wires behind the headunit!

I think the centre console has plenty of space under it, if you haven't put it back together yet


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hahaha it always looks worse than it does doesn't it.

Luckily the 1DIN space allows me to place (stuff more like) big plugs above the unit instead of behind.

You are right in that there's plenty of space. Everything is back together and looks like nothing was touched. Except I've get to figure out what I want to do with the 12v wires from the cigarette lighter that I've extended to the tray.









Like nothing ever happened...









I am thinking a fast charge wireless pad to future proof. Then with the cable hard line lightning - it goes to the HU for CarPlay - drill a hole for the cable to pop through?? The phone can just rest in the tray...


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'd go for either the wireless pad or a USB port as it would be neater and more useful than a wire poking through?

Also, it's interesting that your handbrake has no pad on top, I thought they all did


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah I think handbrake pad was an option here?

I am just throwing ideas around but maybe two of these could be useful...

https://www.amazon.com.au/BATIGE-Sq...eywords=usb+panel+mount&qid=1579088168&sr=8-3.

Options being:
- One connected direct to HU and the other just for power. 
- one connected to HU, one for power + hidden wireless charging pad. LoL

I also discovered that There's so much space that I have managed to tuck the passengers side seat belt in behind the centre console trim :lol:

So the fastening unit is under where the handbrake should rest when disengaged. :roll:


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

This is what I use for USB sockets. Cutting a round hole with a hole saw is easier than cutting a rectangular one!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

tttony said:


> This is what I use for USB sockets. Cutting a round hole with a hole saw is easier than cutting a rectangular one!


Oh that's a neat solution but I wanted to reduce the excessive opening and closing of the glovebox (we know they can break easily) that's why I moved my lightning cable to the tray ... I'll measure up the rear facing section of that tray and see what fits. I don't think the circular ones will fit there


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here are the measurements and some other pics for reference








Not much room for play...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Bit of an update with this idea. What I've gone for is two fold 
1- double USB data plug so the hard connection from the HU to a phone will be external to glovebox 
1a- port connected to HU for CarPlay Or Android Auto
1b- port connected to USB 3.0 QC for a fast charge port

2- double USB 3.0 QC (quick charge) mod
2a- port connects to 1b
2b- port for the wireless quick charge pad

Double USB 3.0 QC was easy since I already had tapped into the cig. Lighter wires. Just needed to crimp the connected and test. This unit I won't ever see since it'll be hidden under the centre console. 









Adding the wireless pad was relatively painless and I just had to disassemble the unit I got from Amazon. 









Modded the oem AUX port so the other end is aftermarket HU friendly

















Had to wait a little bit for the data USB 3.0 kit but it finally arrived and I got stuck into it








Marked where the top face of the rubber pad stops and then did a quick eyeball where I want the dual ports 








Thick cables - feels quality 








Ok time to mark up the mounting position and get into making some holes

































Now all I need to do is install this modified centre console into the car and hook everything up...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wrapping up this project - everything's buttoned up and good to go! Best of all - it all works as I planned. Wooo!


















































I chose to go with USB 3.0 and QC 3.0 ports to ensure if there are any upgrades the ports will be able to handle the faster speeds without having to lift the whole centre console again. Any feedback or suggestions on improving the setup appreciated!


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

You have done so much to your car that I've lost track of what it came with from the factory! 

If it originally had an AUX in socket, there is no need to cut and splice the factory AUX cable to join in a 3.5mm jack plug to fit the Alpine HU.

I just added the necessary pins to the quadlock end of the Connects2 adaptor loom as these pics show.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

tttony said:


> You have done so much to your car that I've lost track of what it came with from the factory!
> 
> If it originally had an AUX in socket, there is no need to cut and splice the factory AUX cable to join in a 3.5mm jack plug to fit the Alpine HU.
> 
> I just added the necessary pins to the quadlock end of the Connects2 adaptor loom as these pics show.


Oh I didn't think of this but I don't remember having a female AUX in my connects2 loom... hmmm

Haha yes there's been a lot added in... next to add in (will it ever stop!??)









There are two extra wires that go to each front seat element for temperature control









Then I carried on identifying the 3 wires for power to the heated element - one to each seat and the red w/blue to the fusebox









Funnily enough the heated seats buttons work and light up as they should without having to have the hardware installed (obviously they'd be just for show until heated seats are sourced)

... I have plans to _try_ and install heated + memory seats.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good work as always. What wireless charging pad did you use? I've previously added wires to the rear tray but not connected anything as yet

Also, how come the HVAC units have different aluminium knobs? Was that a facelift part?

As for the memory seats, I've looked into this but not in a lot of detail. I was looking at seats but since there are no TT memory ones, which car would you source them from? (or just swap the motors etc across?)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Good work as always. What wireless charging pad did you use?


  thank you sir - I only have the best examples to aspire to!
This is the one i used - nothing special but had all the specs i wanted (mainly USB-C connection)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-15W-...var=564379092761&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



MT-V6 said:


> Also, how come the HVAC units have different aluminium knobs? Was that a facelift part?


Yeah they must be from a facelift - everything works as it should though so that's ok!



MT-V6 said:


> As for the memory seats, I've looked into this but not in a lot of detail. I was looking at seats but since there are no TT memory ones, which car would you source them from? (or just swap the motors etc across?)


I know a guy with R36 seats - heated, inflatable side air bladders, memory control.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is going to be replacing the OEM amp setup - it's a marine grade amp SO not going to be prone to the typical failures due to water ingress - plus it'll have way more output capability









Comparison of my sub amp against the original standard non Bose amp









The mounting area and OEM plug - which I'll tap into. Why not just re-use what's already there and it's going to be more than adequate for the Clarion amp. I THINK the wiring diagrams state the speaker wires are 1mm2 which equates to roughly 17AWG.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

The marine grade amp is an extreme way to overcome the Bose amp issue but it's great!


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

" I THINK the wiring diagrams state the speaker wires are 1mm2"

According to the wiring diagrams, the bass speaker wires are 1mm2 but the treble and center dash speaker wires are only 0.5mm2 from where they are paralleled with the 1mm2 wires.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> The marine grade amp is an extreme way to overcome the Bose amp issue but it's great!


This was a perk really and the choice to use this amp was for it's size and the bridged power output for the speakers i have been eyeing off - the marine spec was just a bonus :lol:



tttony said:


> " I THINK the wiring diagrams state the speaker wires are 1mm2"
> 
> According to the wiring diagrams, the bass speaker wires are 1mm2 but the treble and center dash speaker wires are only 0.5mm2 from where they are paralleled with the 1mm2 wires.


1mm2 = 17AWG
0.5mm2 = 20AWG

hmmm... should that mean wiring upgrade for the tweeter?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ok so I have been able to chip away and get the Clarion 4 channel working - without having to run extra speaker wire.

Here I've made my own connector block and have chosen specific amp out wires to run the amp bridged - so no rear speakers will be active at all. I've also included the amp turn on blue wire there.









The factory amp's power cable is more than adequate for this amp so I've used spade terminals to tap into the factory amp's plug. This is how I will also send the speakers their signal and the blue is the amp turn on signal. I've used the nut that holds the factory amp bracket at the ground. No need to run any lengthy extra wires 8) 








The next 4 pins to the right of the blue amp turn on are for the front speakers.

And of course - gotta test that everything powers on. Blue and green light means YEP!









Now I need to re jig the signal coming out of the head unit since the connects2's RCA's are pretty much obsolete. So I switch from the "front out" plugs from the connects2 unit to the blue cables I've run down and through the centre console. 









Time to tune the fronts. I've switched the sub and rear off and have the fronts active - they go REALLY loud and can pretty much have the volume on full without any distortion (there is crazy rattling at that volume though!). I can tell they factory speakers are getting pushed now their output is muuuuuch higher than before. Gain on the Clarion is not even at half. 
Also checked that left and right channels are working as planned. 









And finally turning the sub back on - the only adjustment required was a slight increase in gain to match the level of the front speakers. 









Everything sounds pretty good now and all that's required is to remove the factory amp and figure out a way to secure the two replacement amps and place all the trims back on. If all goes to plan the only visible change will be the sub against the rear seats.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I have decided to "mount" the clarion on the wheel arch foam. Simply using the slits already there to run my ties. 
The factory amp to be removed and stored away - in its place the sub amp.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Nice

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

And the final result! (After many battle scars, blood and two drilled holes into the OEM amp. bracket)








Needed to shift the sub over to the amp's side at my speaker wire isn't long enough to reach the terminal if over on drivers drive. No biggie.










Everything hides nicely behind all of the trim - as if nothing was ever installed! Audio install stage 1 - done.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good gob. What stops it sliding, Velcro?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yep that's it! Quick and easy to remove if need be.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I am SO looking forward to these!!!

















We have an 8"woofer, 4" mid range and tweeter setup









The Clarion amp (bridged) can supply these with a good amount of power.









Need to figure out where these can go as there are two each side ... hmmm. Suggestions are more than welcome! :-*


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Wowser, I had no idea Rainbow were still going! Used to be a decent company.

Crossovers are usually best mounted in the footwell for easy access, maybe up high using velcro, preferably bolted.

Regards your sub being secured by velcro - not a good idea.

In the event of an accident that box hitting the back of your head is gonna hurt! 

Use a metal bracket and bolt.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

happychappy said:


> Wowser, I had no idea Rainbow were still going! Used to be a decent company.
> 
> Crossovers are usually best mounted in the footwell for easy access, maybe up high using velcro, preferably bolted.
> 
> ...


Pretty sure they're still a decent company








I've seen a couple more sets on eBay. These are the golf Mk5 speakers but they should integrate nicely in the TT since the speaker sizes are a good match.

Noted re: sub mount although I'm sure the box will stay in the boot section with the rear seats separating it from the cabin. The final install will get rid of the box and have it under the folding floor.

Will have a dig around the foot wells for optimal mounting positions. This setup is unique in that there are crossovers  so will have to think extra hard about how to deal with that.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The Rainbows are a great find, very rare to get an 8" component set, usually a case of self assembly from various brands.

Have you thought about ditching the Diamond crossovers and either using the headunit crossovers (assuming the Alpine has these?) or upgrading the amp to maybe a DLS/Genesis etc set and using the crossover points on the amps?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

These will need some work as they are meant for a Golf Mk5 but I though they'd be the closest fit. So far so good!

Have managed to hack away at the stock woofer driver housing and have the Rainbows mounted. Next is to tackle the mids and the tweeters should slot in very easily.

The head unit doesn't have enough control to have a fully active system and would need an external setup if I wanted to do that. However I'll be sticking with the Rainbows' quad crossover setup for simplicity and to keep the stealth look. I think any bigger I would heed amps/DSP's mounted in the cabin and not neatly tucked in behind the trims like I envision.

The amp outputs 150w RMS through the crossovers so this keeps things nice and simple and within budget.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Don't forget those external crossovers will suck power!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah is there info on how much they can actually drain? The mids/woofers are rated at 100w RMS...


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

TBH I am not familiar with either the speaker set or your amp, although they are both brands of good standing.

Have you a link to the Clarion amp?

There is a possibility that the Clarion may well be underpowered for a three way set judging by the size, is it class D?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here you go 

It's the Clarion XC2410
https://www.clarion.com/au/en/pdf/XC2410_AU_manual_EN_.pdf

The Rainbow C8.3 speakers (for some reason it's not a full spec list)
https://www.rainbow-audio.de/en/speaker/intelligence-line/vw/


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Just had a quick look, should all be ok, although the amp may struggle at higher volumes.

I take it you intend to bridge the amp to give the speakers maximum clout?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Of course i want all the powaaahhhhh!!!

I'm ditching the rear speakers (taking them out) so the amp will exclusively power the front.

So far the amp. powering the OEM non-Bose speakers (amp. is bridged) actually make them go quite loud with distortion kicking in if i pump the HU up to past 3/4's volume.

Will report back once i have all the Rainbow speakers retrofitted in the OEM housings (just have the mids to sort out) and wired into place. There has been a lot of Dremelling going on! :lol:


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Dremel, hot glue gun, and perhaps router are your friends....


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hahaha. Yes. Add to the a drill press, soldering iron, crimps and posi-taps


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

We both forgot the granddaddy of necessity's....

Heatshrink! 

Always makes my dodgy soldering look good....


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ok so have gotten this far with the hack and slash. If you don't like breaking things then I advise you skip this post! Hahaha it looks nasty.


















































































Next is to pop off all the trims. Remove the rear speaker setup and set up the new wiring for the implementation of the crossovers


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nice job, might as well reuse the old mounts to get the new ones fitting properly


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yup that was the plan!
They also have a proper seal around the face that touches the door.

I can also just plug in with the factory plugs too making it even more convenient. 
Just need to solder up the +VE and -VE from the speakers to OEM housings.


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## fertooos (Dec 15, 2019)

I've thought before that it would be a good project to put the 3.6 in the TT. I'll be interested to see how you get on


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

fertooos said:


> I've thought before that it would be a good project to put the 3.6 in the TT. I'll be interested to see how you get on


Just need to free the garage of one more project before this swap starts


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The speaker upgrade is semi going to plan! First up strip the door









Then confirming which pole on the oem housing is +ve



























The plug end of the tweeter snaps easily off the oem housing. Saves having to cut and strip in the confined space. 









The replacement is smaller so I just double sided taped it in place. 









I'm cutting here to separate the tweeter / woofer connection as they will now be totally separate.



























I have removed the rear speakers altogether as they're better elsewhere ... (in the bin)
Now to do the other side then re tune the system!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got the driver's side wired up and crossovers have a home


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So it looks like I need to re jig my front amplification as I had an oversight!

With the wee clarion bridged I will be connecting the front crossover setup to them at 2ohm instead of the desired 4 ohm load. Didn't realise that connecting speakers to a bridged amp halves that number!!! Not ideal. So I've found a slim 2 channel amp that should happily pump out >100w at 4ohms unbridged.

What is like to ask is does anyone have a pic of the Bose subwoofer unit from above so I can assess the suitability of mounting that amp in that place? The drivers side is not suitable due to the first aid kit pocket. This it to keep the boot area clean from a random amp sitting in there.


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Not sure on your amp, but can you use its inbuilt filters? Remove Bridge from the amp and run components from different channels.

Steve


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Running un bridged at 4 ohms bring the power back down to 50w per channel.

I could run active but that means i'd need to power all 6 drivers LOL


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I would take a look at the Audison catalogue, your answer regards power and compactness will lie there...

If you have the readies....

Alternatively the Zapco ADSP Z8 looks a bit tasty...

Here's video of one fitted to a TT:-


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ooooh look at that!

i think it's still too big though - i'd like to reserve that "fake spare tyre" area for a custom sub build.

Would be great if someone had the pic of the Bose sub from different angles (especially from above) to see how much mounting depth i have


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Running un bridged at 4 ohms bring the power back down to 50w per channel.
> 
> I could run active but that means i'd need to power all 6 drivers LOL


Yes but in bridged mode you are sharing that 100 between your 3 components.

In un bridged mode with active filtering you can have 50w to the woofer and 50w to the mid/ tweeter combo.

The manufacturer cross over can probably passive filter the mid/tweeter combo.

You will need to assess the speaker and cross over impedances to fully understand the power split. For Max power transfer your speaker loads need to match amp impedances.


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## Steve in Ireland (Oct 13, 2017)

ianpgonzaga said:


> What is like to ask is does anyone have a pic of the Bose subwoofer unit from above so I can assess the suitability of mounting that amp in that place?


Not from the top, but is this any use?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Steve in Ireland said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > What is like to ask is does anyone have a pic of the Bose subwoofer unit from above so I can assess the suitability of mounting that amp in that place?
> ...


Thank you! It is helpful 

@LlewCalb - the setup is strange. I've not seen a double crossover setup like this but it is essentially one 3 way crossover each side. I've labelled the resistance that I get when going in with a multi meter at the amp input point. Then at each driver. The large blue text showing the total ohm rating of the 3 way setup.










The mid having its own crossover that sends power to the tweeter/woofer crossover.


----------



## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

If the xover is presenting 4ohm to the amp and the amp specs show (pg18 of manual) 4ohm for bridged mode it seems you have the optimal system.

Where did the 2ohm worry come from?

A passive / active xover mix may still be beneficial.

Steve


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I thought that when bridging the amp is then the impedance from the speakers is halved at the amp...?

So to have the optimal 4ohms, when bridged, the drivers would need to be 8ohms. Right?

I'm thinking about how a mixed passive / active might work here.

I still have a rear channel RCA that isn't hooked up that I could potentially run the woofers or something off of.


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Ahh i see what you mean.

The speakers impedances are not halved.

What essentially happens in bridge mode is that each half of the bridge sees half a speaker.

But If your amplifier is rated and stable to 4 ohms in bridge mode then it will still perform.

This is why amps have ratings at different impedances. To get the MAX you should match your impedances.

Be careful seeking max as you can over drive the speaker then all you get is noise. (THD deontes the distortion).

You have a few options with what you have that will sound good.

Have you set your amp gain and critically listened? You may have it right already.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Llewkcalb said:


> This is why amps have ratings at different impedances. To get the MAX you should match your impedances.


so am i matched or unmatched hahaha i'm a little confused :lol: 
Amp specs:
50 Watts × 4 Continuous @ 4-Ohms
75 Watts × 4 Continuous @ 2-Ohms
150 Watts × 2 Continuous @ 4-Ohms Bridged

I"m yet to reset gains for this setup as have been busy setting up a WFH setup because of what's going on. Expect plenty of other updates though because of more time at home! yay!


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

If your speaker measurements are right you are matched.

4ohm speakers (xover value, amp can't see individual speakers, it just sees a load) matched to 150w x 2 continuous at 4ohm.

It's all just numbers tho, how does it sound? Stick a favorite track on and see if your happy.

Time spent gain tuning will work wonders. If you have no time set it low rather than high or you'll risk distortion.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

yeah so far the Rainbow's sound low VS the sub. I think the OEM speakers were a little more sensitive.

I'll need to re set the head unit crossovers too as now the 8"er's can go a whole lot lower than the OEM 8" speakers. Thinking i'll just leave them off with the subwoofer unplugged.

Find where the "hole" is in the bass and have the sub LPF come in there. I have a feeling i'll put the LPF down at 60Hz or so...


----------



## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Standard OEM speakers have far greater sensitivity than good quality ones.

You would be worth downloading some test tracks. Play the test tracks and do some set up. (Plain tones are best )

You can get 'holes' when your phases are out. Try flipping your sub phase.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I was thinking to use Focal's website

https://www.focal.com/en/focal-teac...EdYto1bk0GxFAzBHSrP4hyEMbpep3QtTP7Koo4KOfKciA


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I did a thing...










It's rough as it still needs proper installation into the cluster and software so the oem screen doesn't scroll through but it's a start!


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## Bluepower (Feb 9, 2013)

ianpgonzaga said:


> I did a thing...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Super sweet!!!!! [smiley=dude.gif] [smiley=dude.gif] [smiley=dude.gif]


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## ADB (May 7, 2002)

I am guessing the moving around the menu's was you pressing the buttons on the end of the wiper stalk?
How easy was this and is there a kit-list? I'd be interested in this as it looks so much better.
How is the integration with satnav and the HU? Would it work with 3rd party Android HU's?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yep it's all controlled through the wiper stalk buttons as per previous platforms.

There's wiring and soldering involved in making the harness however the functionality still needs ironing out as you can see there is still control of the original cluster. Not ideal. It needs to be isolated.

Sat nav integration - not sure because I use CarPlay but that will be looked at later. I want to get the basics sorted first and then non essentials can be tweaked afterwards.

As for ease of installation. So far this is simple as I've not integrated into the OEM housing but that is the final goal. If you want an idea of how they are installed in previous models for an idea of the level of difficulty for the OEM+ look click the following link:

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/not-another-nogaro.278975/page-4#post-2937562


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Ian, going back a few pages to the cluster swap. Instead of swapping out the whole cluster and needing recoding etc.. is it possible to just remove the 3 screens from the TTS cluster and replace the red ones I currently have? Would that work?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So that you can have white central FIS, side odo counter and time?

Yes - but you would have to get the whole facelift unit to do this anyway. Those parts, as far as I know, aren't available separately.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I've got a set of TTS clocks in my garage 

So you think it should be a straight swap?

Or, would it be easier paying someone (if I can find someone) to do the recoding for me and just use the TTS clocks?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

You will need to pretty much strip both clusters to be able to get to the components you need to to do the swap.

Once you get there you MIGHT need to swap over LED's. As the needles are red vs white = the LED's night also be red or white for their respective cluster. You will need to check this once powered on and stripped back.

Be careful with removing the needles - my motors died when I had to service the backlight LED's for the fuel and coolant gauge...

The most foolproof way to have a full functioning cluster is to have your TTS one coded to the car.

Otherwise you will need to be swapping a whole bunch of components over from one to the other. If you're not familiar with the assembly of these clusters just go slow, make lots of notes, take your time and if you get stuck, ask questions so everything works out OK


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Cheers Ian. I might see if I can find someone to recode first, and how much it is.

I just stripped down the clocks from my Mk1 to replace a dead screen. Was fairly straight forward, with a little simple soldering. If the MK2 is that easy then I'm happy to do it, but getting the clocks recoded if not too expensive would be my preference.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Matched TTS clocks would also be the way I'd go.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Also get the benefits of lap timer and needle sweep

I looked before and the only company I found was HazzyDays and they will only use a brand new (I believe there is something that makes it more difficult on old clusters?)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Also get the benefits of lap timer and needle sweep
> 
> I looked before and the only company I found was HazzyDays and they will only use a brand new (I believe there is something that makes it more difficult on old clusters?)


I've had to disable all FIS comfort features for ColourMFA (as there was dual control of both screens) so you lose lap timer function but it is something that should be able to be programmed in. You can keep the needle sweep though.

I can refer you to someone that can definitely assist with the swap but I think HazzyDayz is local so maybe best to try them first.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I''m not overly fussed about a lap timer, that's a bit pointless imo. I like the idea of the needle sweep, but again not too fussed about that, I just want the look of the white rather than red.

If I can pay someone to code it for me, I'm happy to do that, but as you mention, it sounds like Hazydaze will only use a new set of clocks, and I'm not paying for a new set.

Anyone know a company/person in the UK that could possibly do this?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

If you get stuck for an option in the UK let me know and I can point you in the direction to whom can adapt used clusters.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> If you get stuck for an option in the UK let me know and I can point you in the direction to whom can adapt used clusters.


Cheers Ian. Details would be good anyway, explore all options


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

@barry get in touch with https://electrovag.fr/ who can help. He might need both clusters to do what's needed. Just let him know the scope of what you are thinking and he'll help get you sorted.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> @barry get in touch with https://electrovag.fr/ who can help. He might need both clusters to do what's needed. Just let him know the scope of what you are thinking and he'll help get you sorted.


Magic, thanks Ian.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

MT-V6 said:


> Also get the benefits of lap timer and needle sweep
> 
> I looked before and the only company I found was HazzyDays and they will only use a brand new (I believe there is something that makes it more difficult on old clusters?)


You just need to flash the cluster using TTS file to activate needle sweep and laptimer.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah that's what I had done to my white 3.2 cluster but remember not everyone will have the necessary tools to update the flash.

You can't just do this with Ross tech hex+can cable. It's quite a lot more involved.


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Yeah that's what I had done to my white 3.2 cluster but remember not everyone will have the necessary tools to update the flash.
> 
> You can't just do this with Ross tech hex+can cable. It's quite a lot more involved.


Yup, Need cable like VCP (Vag Can Pro) or VAS cable. Flashing the cluster only takes 8mins.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> You just need to flash the cluster using TTS file to activate needle sweep and laptimer.


Fancy explaining how in another post, so we don't hijack this one?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have gone in too deep to go back. There is the point of no return when it comes to modifying clusters with all ColourMFA installs... I reached that point today 

After more and more testing everything is looking very promising software wise. There will be a TT 8J specific firmware soon. In the meantime the integration continues.

To install the screen into the OEM position first you crack open the housing. It's not too difficult. 









Next comes point of no return 1 - trimming the foil









Point of no return 2 - removal of the oem diffuser + more trimming. You'll see why this is required in a bit. 









The ribbon needs to be released and pushed up out of its fastener. By trimming the trapezoid shape it allows the ribbon to exit more easily than without doing so. 









Now the whole OEM assembly is out. Need to test the trimming of the foils is OK. 

















Here I'm testing to see if the backlights still function without the screen. Which they do. This is not ideal as they can put heat and light bleed when the ColourMFA is installed. They need to be deactivated.








So for the early clusters the LED's are red with later cluster LED's being white.

To deactivate these need to be removed - point of no return 3 [smiley=bigcry.gif] 

















*The result?*


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Sample of output test


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Sorry what do you mean @Wolvez?


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Sorry what do you mean @Wolvez?


Ignore what I said earlier. Running cluster output test using VCDS is the best way to check if everything is working properly but it will not demostrate how color MFA display works.

Can you take a video while pressing the left button to test warning lights. Also want to see what it looks like when there are several faults to be displayed. Instrument illumination wheel can Colored MFA brightness ?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Ignore what I said earlier. Running cluster output test using VCDS is the best way to check if everything is working properly but it will not demostrate how color MFA display works.
> 
> Can you take a video while pressing the left button to test warning lights. Also want to see what it looks like when there are several faults to be displayed. Instrument illumination wheel can Colored MFA brightness ?


VCDS output test is separate to ColourMFA - the unit has it's own connections to 12v, IGN and GND.

Which left button do you mean?

You can see how i dig into diagnostics @2:30 - i have updated the previous post with in-housing testing.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

That is very cool 8) love it


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

*Does oil temp and oil pressure ecu measuring block working on yours? If yes, what your ecu hardware #?*

The clock/date adjustment button. Pressing and holding that button on the stock cluster will display all warning signs.

I was assuming the colourMFA is a direct swap to the stock lcd. Upgraging to colourMFA requires a lot of skill which I don't have [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Knight-tts said:


> That is very cool 8) love it


Thanks Knight 



Wolvez said:


> *Does oil temp and oil pressure ecu measuring block working on yours? If yes, what your ecu hardware #?*
> 
> The clock/date adjustment button. Pressing and holding that button on the stock cluster will display all warning signs.
> 
> I was assuming the colourMFA is a direct swap to the stock lcd. Upgraging to colourMFA requires a lot of skill which I don't have [smiley=bigcry.gif]


- i will need to check that oil temp/pressure info.
- all notification LED's work fine. you can see them on startup. they are not affected by any of the modications of the original screen - they mostly have their own pin at the blue plug. cluster stalks are also not affected and function as normal
- hehehe have you not been following my whole thread? in what part is anything i've done direct :lol:

joking! look... if i can do it. so can you. I had to learn without much guidance... was very much trial and error!

I will provide a thorough how to once the process is complete otherwise I am happy to help make it happen for others.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have boost gauge and all values up and running on home screen.

*Boost gauge - customisable to bar or PSI* 









*Home screen values - changing effects and oil level display* 









Hope you like it


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Have boost gauge and all values up and running on home screen.
> 
> Hope you like it


My mind is blown  that is awesome, well done and so well implemented, maybe add to your linkdin profile and Audi will sign you up


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## CharlieS (Jan 5, 2018)

TTsdsgomg said:


> ianpgonzaga said:
> 
> 
> > Have boost gauge and all values up and running on home screen.
> ...


My thoughts as well!


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## ADB (May 7, 2002)

If someone offered an 8J DashPod upgrade service where you could remove your dashpod, post it out, it gets modified it and then posted back for refitting this would probably make someone some decent money :roll: 
I have no idea what the cost of the parts are, or whether it would be a one-size fits all but I'd definitely be interested...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

https://www.facebook.com/FISClusterCare/ (sorry shameless plug but since you suggested it...)

It's what i've been doing on the 8L, Mk4 and Seat platforms previous to Mk2 down in convict land :lol:

:wink:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wee update - have you always wondered what stock boost on an early 2.0 TFSI is?
Well now we know!










Just a reference so we can gauge pressure drop on FMIC upgrades.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Extremely impressive Ian. I looked at your facebook page and looks like you are already selling cluster upgrades and assume the ColourMFA is still in testing. Is this correct and have you priced an install of the colour MFA into a 2.0 09 FWD TT


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks Iceblue it's so good to see it almost fully functional on the 8J.

Yes it is still in testing on this platform and already fully working and process of integration into previous gen models is sorted. That is where I'm at now for Mk2. The process of "hard installing" into the position where the original screen (red or white - doesn't really matter) would normally be.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I have been meaning to do this one for a while as it was very much in the way in the garage.

CTS intercooler front mount install. It's a biggie! So up with the front and bumper off.

















Taking the reo off - needed to make sure not to lose the tiny "washers" that hold onto the locator posts.

















The CTS kit takes front centre in that the crash bar is completely replaced.
















Mounting the core is relatively simple. Since the inlet/outlet have been modded i needed to modify the plastic radiator mount panel so the inlet pipe didn't foul. There was a lot of grinding and test fitting here but got it perfect in the end.








There were a couple of options for the depth of the core - i ended up using the holes closest to the fins.

















Now i need to get these to join up before i can enjoy cooler air.









Bumper test fit - i ended up cutting the middle section as 1) the paint was flaking off and 2) so most of the core gets unobstructed air. I also needed to fab. a bracket for the horns as the FMIC core sits really high so the stock mounting bracket is too long. I cut up some steel flat bar, bent it and drilled holes for the bolts to go through. Simple enough. 
The fitment's very tight, especially on the 3" outlet side where i don't think i'll be able to keep the blanking plate for the headlight grilles.  









Because i'm a sucker for punishment i also decided to install the headlight washer bottle/system.








The extra motor needs wiring in. A relay needs to be placed in the engine bay fuse box and a wire needs to be run to the CECM (plug D, 8/11). There is already conduit that the heater washer motor wires can tuck into and enter the engine bay.









Am thinking i'll need to go to a shop to get some bends welded up - so for now - the front stays off. :lol: 









... i really need to colour code the front and rear bumpers already :lol:


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Very impressive, but isn't this the car the 3.6 is going in? Or are you going to turbo that too 

I have wired in the headlight washer relay but not swapped the reservoir yet. The wiring looks a lot easier with it stripped!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hehehe ... somewhere along the lines MT..... 8)

Yeah it's not hard to wire in the top motor with the biggest pain getting the 3 wires to feed through the groomer under the fuse box. The ground I just went with a bolt at the washer bottle. At least I know it's covered up and I didn't need to split into wherever the OEM ground went. You'll be a-OK at doing it.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I used a ground point just under the airbox, there are actually 2 right next to each other. One is the main one from the engine I think

Can just about make it out here with the shiny crimp


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ooooh good to know that big momma one is there !!!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

When wiring in the LED headlights and using a DRL switch - you MUST NOT use the DRL on/off roller until you re wire at the BCM. Otherwise you make the switch fizzle, smoke, and die!

So i opened it up to see what happened...

... here you can see that the black contacts have burned up! [smiley=bigcry.gif] 









Time to fix... i remembered i had this heatshielding tape. It's basically a copper sheet that is adhesive backed. I used a. multimeter to test for continuity... it works!









I got crafty with a scalpal and tested the re contact and rewire job

















You can see here how the contacts on the roller function
In the *off* position








In the *on* position









Switch has been revived!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Very creative. The circuit being completed in the OFF position confirms my test wiring so that's good. It completes a circuit of ~1.5 volts, which then turns off the DRLs


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ahhh interesting and that's good info!

Another interesting thing is the spring mechanism inside that roller to give the "click feel". Tiny bit without it you don't get the satisfying click sound and feel on changing settings :lol:

Received your DRL switch yet??


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nope, seller has gone quiet so I've had to open a dispute

Something I wanted to check but forgot, was how the switch works in combination with the DIS (I assume it would not have the DIS option coded from factory on cars with a physical switch?)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Let me get back to you on that one ... as this is the current situation







:lol:


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Continueing on from above, the reason for the raised car is the installation of a set of some KW coilovers.

They are *VR6 spec (for future reasons) KW V3 coilovers*

So off with the sway bar link, hammered the steering end tie rod joint out, 3 16mm ball joint nuts and remove the driveshaft (either end will do).

































Now the strut tower clamp bolt needs to be removed and the spreader tool is utilized. Removed the brake and sensor lines from their bracket so they don't stretch. 








That's just a little WD40 around the base of the strut to make things easier and a bunjee cord to catch the hub assembly.
After some wiggling and pushing down the hub assembly can be moved off to the side.

Next is removal of the scuttle panel (wipers off!) to gain access to the final 3 bolts to remove the front struts. I went slowly with each one making sure to already be holding the spring while removing the final bolt. 

















Now the guiding bracket is a little different on these compared to the OEM one, so instead of using that as a reference I just made sure it slot into the spread section of the hub and ensured the bottom of the coilover is all the way home.
















I adjusted these very roughly just by eye But definitely not bottomed out... Then go back from where i came - torque values below.

Moving onto the rears: arch liner off and leveling sensors off. 

















The process is much simpler in the rear where removal of the spring arm and shock is done with 4 bolts. 1 at the arm, 2 at the top of the shock, and one at the bottom =

















Lucky I'm super familiar with the rear setup! One thing that needs to be done is the top mount needs swapping over.
















Again I adjust the perches by eye...

End result. Very happy! The drop is just about right and I'll wait for them to settle a little to make finer adjustments. Overall the process wasn't too difficult (had all the right tools) and now the drive is much more planted. 

















(values with # means renew)
*TORQUE VALUES FOR FRONT SUSPENSION
*
10mm Headlight level sensor nut 5Nm
18mm Droplink nut 65Nm #
18mm Hub to shock bottom clamping bolt 70Nm + 90˚ #
18mm Steering rack end link nut 20Nm +90˚
13mm Strut top bolts 15Nm + 90˚ #
16mm Ball joint nuts 40Nm + 45˚ #
M10 Driveshaft bolts 70Nm

*TORQUE VALUES FOR REAR SUSPENSION
*
T25 Headlight level sensor bolts 5Nm
18mm + 18mm spanner Lower transverse link (spring carrier) 90Nm + 90˚ #
16mm Shock bolts top 50Nm + 45˚ #
21mm Shock bolt bottom 180Nm
13mm Shocking mounting nut 25Nm #


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Another good writeup, all these coilover threads are making me jealous :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

(Torque specs updated)

"Don't be jell" why not join the club


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## french (Oct 7, 2018)

What happened to the MSS springs, are the coilovers much better ?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey french: The MSS springs are in the trading post section. I didn't run them but I imagine with fresh shocks that they'd be a very nice upgrade in ride quality and handling.

*QUICK REVIEW OF THE KW V3's*

I've had them in for about a week and we're lucky to not be on full lock down but are able to go out for essentials. I've experienced some turns, bad roads, good roads, and strange roads too.

First of all without the bumper on to secure the undertray it scrapes on the center of the road where it is highest - let's not do that again! Hahaha
First the turns - definitely much more confident in turning in and the car feels much more flatter mid aggressive turn. No scrubbing for me at this height. 
Bad roads - I drove down a particularly bad patch near me and freaked out that I broke something because of NVH that was happening - I remembered that, no, it's not the suspensions that broken but the road that is the main issue working the coilovers harder. Obviously the bump stops will also be getting worked while dropped lower. So while on normal roads they are VERY comfortable, not noisy or anything, there is extra noise over bumps and rough roads. 
Good roads - wouldn't even notice there are aftermarket coilovers on the car. My partner even mentioned that the ride seems smoother. 
Strange roads - there was a patch I drove on which I can only explain as "corrugated" where, again, it sounded noisier than before and of course a little more harsh than on the oem suspension but I wouldn't say crashy. These are not at all crashy and NOT the firmest I've had. I have experienced TEIN's in an S15 - low, harsh and crashy. I have had Bilstein B14's in my 8L S3 - similar to these but are firmer even on nice roads - I would tend to feel small bumps and nuances more. With these the ride feels like the best of both worlds. Comfort and when it comes to handling they jump in like a champion.

I still have plenty of space to drop if I do wish to but I like the arch evenly spaced with the wheel. Lowering any further and I risk bottoming out. Not my style. 
I rate these highly and if your budget can stretch to them (maybe a 2nd hand pair pops up), they're a worthy investment!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

One thing you've got to get used to ...









Restored the test cluster back to its former working self. Resoldered the tiny resistors and replaced the screen. Good news as this means ColourMFA is a reversible mod. 









Turning my focus to a passenger door... stripping it right back 








Never knew these were screwed in








After everything was removed that door came off. It'll be getting sprayed black.

Whipped these out for a clean - they're going for a re spray too. Bumpers will also follow for matching (finally :lol


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

*SuperPro 26mm rear swaybar/ anti roll bar upgrade *

Another handling mod to add to the done list (and it doesn't take too long either). You'll remember I swapped the OEM rear 19mm with a 22m from an R36 (https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9221453#p9221453) but this takes it a step further with a _MUCH_ thicker and adjustable setup.

The part in question - RHS view









First up is removing the drop link nuts. You need to counter the threaded stud to completely remove the nut otherwise it starts spinning itself and the stud. You'll need a triple square bit set for this job








Continue to remove the lower nut









Then you tackle removal of the sway bar bush/brackets. After these are off you're able to detach the swaybar from the drop links and maneuver it out toward the LHS of the TT. 









Let's compare. You can see there's a big difference in thickness and the SuperPro has a soft and hard setting. What you can't feel is the weight. The OEM 3.2 bar was 19mm and is hollow. Same with the 22mm R36 one. The 26mm is significantly heavier as a solid bar increasing rigidity even more. 









Right. Now you pretty much go back from where you came but using the SuperPro hardware to re-attach the upgraded sway bar. New bushes and silicone lube were included in this second hand kit and fit into the OEM brackets. Torque values recommended are in the kit. (Threw our the instructions already [smiley=bigcry.gif] )








I'm going with the hardest setting as I like the sharper turn in and this also helps to get the rear end kicking out (especially in the wet!!). You'll also see that I've used SuperPro adjustable drop links on this setup too which can be helpful for clearance issues.

Part #'s
SuperPro RC0006RZ-26 (another option are the H&R 33220)
Superpro TRC1045L


----------



## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Nice update. I'm thinking of replacing the rear arb with a 24mm version and drop links. What size is the spline fitting on the links? I'm going to need to get hold of a torque settings manual for this car


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here you go @Flashy 









I'll also PM you re: manual info


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Remember when I was supposed to do a Quattro swap?!

Getting back on that side of things (amongst other things - as per usual)

Easiest way to go about it is to split and drop the cat and exhaust. This allowed the heatshield to be dropped and to access the transmission tunnel. 









Referencing the 3.2 - I counted the positions of the rivets to roughly position the brackets. 








I used blu tack to ensure that once the brackets were I n their positions that they are level - which they are :-* 









Next steps were to replace the heat shield, re attach the brackets where I marked them up then bolt the propshaft to the Haldex unit. I raised the mid mount on the shaft up to the brackets and the placement is pretty good!









Happy with that so I've got to weld them on. The car will then be Quattro drivetrain compatible.

Unfortunately my main camera has died on me so videos will be limited to iPhone made ones but I will do my best to make more videos showing swap stuff. Happy to take requests if there's anything in particular people would like to know.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Something that has come up a bit is the propshaft doughnut part number as it's not listed separately for the 8J TT or late 8P A3s but it is for early 8P A3s. Is there a part number on yours?

I assume for now you have nothing to attach the front of the propshaft too, or is the gearbox similar?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yep they have part numbers - i can understand why there's unclear information for these as the part numbers aren't easily seen and you've already mentioned that databases omit the part #.

The whole driveshaft/propshaft/cardan shaft assembly is showing up as 
- 8J0 521 101 L V6
- 8J0 521 101 M V6
- 8J0 521 101 N 4 cyl
- 8J0 521 101 K 4cyl

*The following info is from a V6 3.2 BDB/BUB.*

Front bushing
- 8J0521127 A

























Rear bushing is characterised by it's square cutouts (this is where it's difficult as many parts online are showing a slightly different version that has a thick rim - mine has quite a thin rim). 

























Inside the rim are some part numbes








I may or may not be correct as the letters are hard to make out
- 7M0 521 127 A








- 95 VW 4K 332 AB









Centralising bush (thought i might as well document this too while there)
- SGF - AG12 or 100 000 26 10 002









Funny thing is the bushes have not really physically changed from the Mk1 TT, S3, Mk4 R32's - only the beginning of the part number specifying their model has changed. I know the fronts are actually cross compatible throughout the all vehicles from the same Haldex using platform. The rears appear to be slightly different.

Hope that helps!?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Very useful. I don't actually have an issue with mine but since you had all the parts off the car it seemed like a good opportunity!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Now we know hey!!!

Did a quick little mod to give a more whiter light to the number plates at night. Instead of using eBay or AliExpress specials I went in with the OEM units from facelift models.

Before









Part number for the LED number plate lights - 4G0943021 (mine came from a Q7 apparently). The wiring and small plugs can be found by searching for Audi tweeter plugs. 









Examining the LED units I could see the locking tab was opposite of the slit on the front of the unit








Note the large plug on the pre facelift unit. Here you can see the locking tab. 









After some cutting and splicing (brown wire to brown wire, coloured to coloured) they are fitted. 









Here's how they look after the mod. Looking nice and fresh with the whiter light - and it's not overly bright like an aftermarket SMD unit would be.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks good, no bulb failure errors either I assume?

My current mix of 2 different LED units don't throw errors when both plugged in, but if one is unplugged they both switch off


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Nope! No bulb errors popping up at all [smiley=cheers.gif] . Definitely a sure fire way to ensure no bulb errors pop up is to use VAG cross compatible parts. When you start digging the info and parts bin the options are quite plentiful. (I'm sure you already know this @MT)

While I was re-fitting the rear bumper I cut out and epoxied some new leather "bump stop pads" - don't actually know what to call them but there's a funny circle cutout that was missing on one side and folded up on the other. The material seems to be a hard leather look plastic. 
Anyway I cut up some leather from an old door trim I had laying around and stuck it on. Just need to finally pop on the beauty cover and the rear end refresh is done!


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Ian, have you ever considered trying to retrofit the virtual cockpit from the Mk3?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

It's an interesting concept but i doubt the housing would fit in the space that the 8J's one has.

I can look into the wiring up of this for interests sake.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> It's an interesting concept but i doubt the housing would fit in the space that the 8J's one has.
> 
> I can look into the wiring up of this for interests sake.


If it wasn't too hard to actually get it working, then I'd happily find a way of squeezing it in there


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

@barry - i think check out the housing shapes first and you will instantly see your biggest hurdle...

So - i don't even recognise my car now! It's been so long with the top deck look that this look so quite unfamiliar :lol:

*PART 1 - BUMPERS AND BONNET
*


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

*PART 2 - SCUFF TRIM AND SIDE SKIRTS*

Going into a little more detail in this one showing how to remove the door scuff panel and switching side skirts. Hope it helps!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Ian, have you ever considered trying to retrofit the virtual cockpit from the Mk3?


Barry i've had a look at the wiring and while there is a 32 pin plug back there it only has pins for power, CAN's (of which where are more than in the 8J), and then these two extra plugs. With the 2 pin MOST plug looking like it's a major part of communication for the cluster - a system not present in the 8J


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Ah well, was worth a look I guess


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I mean it could be made to work - would just need to make sure that a few things are in place.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

After dropping the car on coilovers a knock in the rear end got louder and more consistent. I guess there was more strain on components once lowered. The knocking/rattling seemed to come from somewhere under the rear passenger seats butt area. There's only one bush I know of which is there. So I ended up upgrading to SuperPro 70 shore rear trailing arm bushes.

*REMOVE AND INSTALL (upgraded) REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHES*









Sorry not many instruction to this but if you guys want it I can add that later. Was in a rush to get them done. You will need to press out the old bushes and press these in. They come in two hardness ratings 70 and 80. Decided not to go too hard otherwise the ride could get too intense which I didn't want as it is still, at the end of the day, a street driven car.

https://superpro.com.au/find/superp...2wd-/productnr-SPF3347-70K/cid-999500662/vid-


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Cool videos. I have a sideskirt to fit and looking for the other side so your video will help. The scuff plate looks nasty to remove though


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Cool videos. I have a sideskirt to fit and looking for the other side so your video will help. The scuff plate looks nasty to remove though


It's not that bad to be honest - as soon as you have a corner lifted the rest will pull off easy enough with the heat being applied. the worst part is prepping it to go back on. if you want it to stick properly it's best to get all the old adhesive off - which takes forever!

I just re-did the adhesive on the lower door seal on the freshly sprayed door - again it took ages to remove the old double sided tape in prep for a new strip.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Last of the body panel time lapses is the removal and rebuilding of the door. The video is a bit log but there's a lot that needed to be done. In this video I go though
- door removal 
- stripping electrical components 




- door installation 




- handle reassembly 




- window regulator install 




- outer and inner door seals 




- window glass installation 




- wing mirror refit 




- window glass height adjustment 




- outer weather seal


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Super excited now that the brackets for the propshaft are now welded in and while the car was up I also got the final bracket for the Quattro fuel tank welded in place too.


























FrankensTTein now ready for the next major phase...


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Last of the body panel time lapses is the removal and rebuilding of the door. The video is a bit log but there's a lot that needed to be done. In this video I go though
> - door removal
> - stripping electrical components
> - door installation
> ...


Keep them coming this will be of great help to me as considering replacing door like for like as it would be cheaper than having the car park scratch repaired.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Trying to do my best Nidana 

I've added time stamps for easier reference to points of interest (sorry it looks messy as i'm not sure how to integrate the link into text)

The format of the videos is a little different but hopefully gives you a "hands on look" of things.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Is 2.0 Quattro the next phase?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Is 2.0 Quattro the next phase?


No - 2.0
Yes! - quattro

Will make a video to show progess


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I'm just going to let you two get acquainted 8)


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Trying to do my best Nidana
> 
> I've added time stamps for easier reference to points of interest (sorry it looks messy as i'm not sure how to integrate the link into text)
> 
> The format of the videos is a little different but hopefully gives you a "hands on look" of things.


So Ian last week I decided to see if I could find a YouTube video for mk2 door removal and refit. This was purely to see if it was going to be within my skill set. Nothing appeared but for other marquees or the mk1 with this in mind I put it on the back burner. 
Then within 24 hours your video drops and tomorrow I'm collecting a door and weather dependent maybe fitting it at weekend. 
The knowledge of members like yourself on here being shared is fantastic. 
Looking forward to what comes next.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hehe. I felt it in my waters ...

Hopefully your replacement is the same colour and is "fully loaded" as it will literally be the electrical connector and the nut and bolt.

Hopefully no more door handles to mess about with [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have updated and reformatted the table of contents. Now reads much clearer with link integration and i'll do my best to keep main subject in alphabetical order too.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

You can definitely convert a FWD vehicle over with "minimal hassle" compared with, say, a Golf but there still does need to be some welding. A friend assisted with his welding skills on one of the integral parts to the Quattro conversion - the propshaft brackets.

This is where the tunnel was. All cars will have the same heatshield that has the cutouts for the bracket (already removed to have full visibility of the bare tunnel)









Another look at the freshly welded on brackets - now the undercarriage is Quattro









Testing alignment of the brackets to the propshaft centre bearing mounts - lines up nicely!









Turn your attention to the background of the pic - you can see the rear propshaft bush is now fully secured to the Haldex / rear diff unit









Finally you can see "the assembly" in full looking toward the engine. There's a centre bearing heatshield which is obtained from any Quattro model, then the centre bearing, then the brackets, which is surrounded by the tunnel heatshield.









Next up is to remove the front (yet again) and axles from the gearbox.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So the car is yet again up on jackstands but this time it's going to be for a while longer. Now that the undercarriage from the fireware > back is sorted i'm happy to forge ahead with the 2.0 coming out.

Will post pics of progress along the way but i will also try to post up videos. They do take a little longer to create so if there's not much video action going on it's because of the editing process.

Once again the bumper and headlights are off but this time i've raised both front and read of the car so it's relatively even. I've found it's much easier to swing engines out/in with a level car rather than having to try and tilt the engine all sorts of ways when it's on a crane.









Removal of the front clip will be shown in a video update. All of this can be done in one go without having to remove the front crash bar/aftermarket FMIC after making sure all parts that join to the rad. support have been disconnected. So that means disconnect
- inlet/outlet of intercooler
- inlet/outlet of radiator (i like to drain coolant via the after run pump hose)
- remove plugs for the bonnet sensor, a/c pressure, fans
- de-gas the a/c and remove those connections









For now i've moved the 2.0 front clip into storage so the workspace in front of the engine is clear. 
Next step is to disconnect all the wiring and ECU from the body.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Workmanship in this thread still impresses me everytime I decided to pop in and have a nose :lol: 
Very interested to see what it's 'final' form will be


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thank you sir  ditto with your build! Love the insta's on your car. It's such a good perv 

I too am very interested in the final form! It'll be a first in the country - especially when done DIY.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This weekend was quite productive.

There are parts of doing something like this seems like you don't really get much done (because it's so fiddly or under the car it's mainly "unseen") or you seem like you get a massive part of the job done. I feel like i got both of those done this weekend!!! :twisted:

First is getting to the ECU. Once you've gotten under the scuttle panel it's right in front of your face. The trouble, then, is removing it from it's security lock as the plugs can't be unlatched without having to remove some invisible head screws. A Dremel, screwdriver, drift and hammer fixed that issue. Now the 2.0 ECU can be removed and unplugged from the car. 
You can see one plug has been removed leaving the small one. The larger plug belongs to the body so it must stay. The small plug comes out as it belongs with the engine and ECU.









The early 2.0's only come equipped with one pair of O2 sensors (front/in engine bay and rear/under the car). The 3.6 requires 2 pairs. This is where this box of goodies comes into play.









Opening it up we get this. It looks a shambles but i remembered to label significant things when i pulled it out of the donor wagon R36. In any case they always only ever fit "one way" no matter how confusing it looks.









I'll be needing the 2nd set of O2 or lambda plugs. They are the brown plugs. If you have an S-Line 3.2 you will already have this wiring (but the ECU plug layout is completely different). I need to remove that section from what you see in the image previously.









Here's where i had no idea what i was doing :lol: There was a bit of fiddling around (remember how i said you feel like to get not much done - this is what i'm talking about) to get the plug cover off at first then i had to figure out the best way to get to the innards of the plug to de-pin the wire ends. Got there in the end without too much damage happening to the plug cover.









Will need to extract wires from both brown and black rows.









First i started at the rear O2 sensor plug wiring as it was more clear what i needed to pull. I had to slice open the loom tape to be able to follow each wire back to their ends. Most of them terminated at the ECU with two wires joining into one to terminate at the fuse box.
In the pic below i've moved onto the front O2 sensors which also has the MAF sensor plug in it. You can see there is a clear split in the wiring from the rest of the loom once the loom tape is removed.









This is what the floor in the study looked like mid-way through! Yikes! The blue tape is there to tell me what pin to insert the terminal ends back into in the 2.0 loom. Getting there...









Following one of the thicker wires (which gives power to the sensors) takes me back to the fuse box. I saved the relevant fuse for each pair of sensors.









In the end this is all i required  Thinking about it i might even just utilise the brown plugs as that's all that is missing technically.









Once that was done it was time to come back to the car and remove all fixings from the 2.0 

driveshafts
exhaust
splash tray frame
remove all coolant connections
electrical connections
a/c connections
disconnect gearbox shifter connection
earth cable
then double check all of those are removed

Once I was satisfied with that - i got some food to eat! [smiley=chef.gif]

Stocked up with more energy I bolted on the engine leveller, assembled the crane, and got to this point.









[smiley=mexicanwave.gif]


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good work  if I understand correctly are you are removing the extra wires from the 3.6 loom and splicing them into the 2.0 loom?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yes I think that would be the simplest option rather than removing the current O2 wiring to them add it back in?

It would require too much extra work and damaging the grommet on the drivers side where the O2 wiring enters the scuttle section to go to the ECU


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Oh I see now. So feeding this extra wire in for the 'body' side of the loom, but still using the 3.6 'engine' sides of the loom?

As both sides go to the separate connector blocks


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yes I'll be integrating the brown plugs into the system - they terminate at the big 94 pin plug.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9185787#p9185787

Going back to my fuse layout I can see row B #4 is going to be where to place the 10a fuse for the 2nd pair of O2's. Please verify @MT?

You're correct that the small plug is the "engine side" - no need to touch anything there.

However if you were going to do this - you'd need to re pin everything in the big plug / chassis side as the 3.2's ECU is the previous gen ME7.1.1 which has a different plug shape and pinout.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'll have a check in the morning for you about that fuse 

Aside from the ECU being newer, does it have anything 'extra'? Or all the same sensors/wires but in a different connector housing?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Awesome thanks!

It's essentially just a different plug.

I just remembered...

Since the 3.6 uses FSI for fuelling you would need to integrate that system too which is in the chassis big plug. The 3.2 still uses MPI for fuelling hence my choice to start with the FSI motor as a base.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

ianpgonzaga said:


> Yes I'll be integrating the brown plugs into the system - they terminate at the big 94 pin plug.
> 
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9185787#p9185787
> 
> ...


The under bonnet fuse box is SB

The row nearest the bulkhead is ST1 (black), the next one down is ST2 (brown). The next two rows are vacant on the TT

ST2 fuse 4 you mention above is 10 amp, and is listed for "Lambda probe 2 G108" and "Lambda probe 2 after catalytic converter G131" in the BUB (V6) and CBRA (TDI) engines only

ST2 fuse 2 is 10 amp, and is listed for "Lambda probe G39" and "Lambda probe after catalytic converter G130" in the BUB (V6) and CBRA (TDI) engines (different amp fuse and use in the CEPA, CEPB, CRRA (2.5) engines)

Both should be perm live

I just put all the info I could see there, even though you probably know most of it. Hope that helps


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thank you for the clarification on the fuse terminology. I just like the sanity check! [smiley=cheers.gif]

I separated the brown plugs away from the OEM R36 looms. They're joined to power differently. Precats 12v wires join separately to the post cat 12v wires. The 3.2 TT is set up where the pre and post cat bank 1 join and then you have bank 2 on a separate fuse as you've explained above.

Needed to remove more of the loom tape to get to the 12v join then to separate the two banks' plugs. 









Most of the post cat wires are hidden in this conduit making it easier to split apart the brown from the black plug.









Near the ends they are taped into their own bundles. 









Back in the engine bay - literally... The 2.0 is out and the 3.6 can, technically, be bolted in. 









But first I need to change the chassis bracket mount to suit the VR6 mount to engine block mount.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Time to install the 2nd set of O2 sensors and the R36 MAF (which is on the opposite side to the 2.0).










For some reason the pre cat wiring loom is super long. I'm using the 12v wire from the bank 2 pre cat sensor to fuse box in which the post cat/ power will splice into as it's the thicker gauge. Let there now be a pair of pre cat sensors. 









Time to get under the car and feed the 4 post cat wires through the grommet on the drivers side. This is really fiddley as trying to get the loom neatly into the conduit and into the mounting points just under the brake fluid reservoir is a tight fit. 









The ECU plug needed the pins added into it from the O2's and one wire from the 2.0 MAF to be replaced with the R36 one's pin. The R36 MAF needs power so I spliced it into the 2.0's wire that goes to the cabin fuse box to keep things simple. 
The rest of the pins for the R36 MAF need to be freshly inserted into unoccupied positions in the chassis plug.

Looking back at some earlier info - this is the original 2.0 BWA layout








Now there is an extra fuse for the 2nd set of O2's (the blue 15a on the left). I've also replaced the original 10a 2.0 lambda fuse to a 15a one as that's the 3.6 spec fuse. The wiring is already an adequate gauge for this. Unfortunately the gold fuse holder in the 2.0 doesn't have has much provision to mimic the 3.2 TT layout so i've needed to utilise the one and only spare fuse slot.









The 2.0's MAF is now redundant and will be tucked away, unused.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The radiator pack assembly requires changing for the VR6 one which doesn't include the intercooler as a part of the stack. The difference in setups goes:

2.0l - A/C condenser | front mount intercooler | radiator (hose connectors opposing) | fans 
VR6 - A/C condenser | radiator (hose connectors same side) | fans

I also switched over the condenser as the R36 one has a different flange for the hose mounts.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Standing back and looking at what's in front of me ... all it looks like a mess!!!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

It will all look lovely again with a bit of tape around all those wires

And an engine filling the empty space!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

... and yet there's more to disconnect and change in! If the engine being out wasn't bare enough I take it a step further. This car is really going no where anytime soon hahaha!!!

Getting under the car again it's time to focus on the sub frame - specifically dropping it to access the steering rack and sway bar.

First is to make sure nothing snags or breaks so I've undone the level sensor arm and wiring guide anchor bolt. 









Removal of the power steering rack heatshield requires 3 t25 bolts to be removed. Clearly marked here as I took the opportunity to take a pic from this angle with no engine. 

















Depending on the generation of your rack there will be two plugs to unclip
- gen2 two big plugs 
- gen3 one big and one small plug
Here are the locations. 









There is a 3rd plug that I initially removed but found it stays put as it's part of the rack and doesn't join the main harness. 









This conduit needs to be removed in order to fully drop the subframe and remove the rack from it. This wiring leads back up to join to the main congregation of wires near the rear of the passenger headlight. 









Once all the electrical connections are loosened off and out of the way it's time to drop the subframe. First is to remove the cover trim that hides the steering rack link up to the column for the steering wheel. There's one 13mm bolt fixing that connection together 









The steering rack ends need disconnecting from the uprights. Easily done with a hammer on the nut. 









Once that's undone these bolts can be removed to begin dropping the subframe. 








Never seen a bolt like this before!









Sub frame with steering rack - at this step I decided to remove the sway bar clamps to give more space for the steering rack to lift out of. 








The coast is clear and the rack can now be removed from the subframe 









Now the top of the subframe is clear I thought it was the perfect time to clean the dirt from it! 









Another difference between gen2 and gen3 racks is their number of bolts. The gen2 is bolted on with 4 13mm bolts and the gen3 with 3 bolts only. 
Finally I noticed that the front sway bar in the 2.0 is MUCH lighter than the 3.2. I can only assume the TFSI one is hollow and VR6 one is solid. 
Top to bottom you're looking at a gen3 rack, middle VR6 sway bar (bad angle but they have a hump just off from the centre of the bar and then the 2.0 swaybar.

Gen3 rack and heavier Quattro sway bar should be back on by the weekend.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Interesting stuff regarding the steering racks. So do you need to do some repinning of the connectors to get the new one to fit the original connectors in the loom?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I was tossing that up and will just remove that section of the loom (which also has the oil level sensor plug) from each car and also swap them around. It's easy enough as there are only 3 parts to disconnect from
- fuse box 
- earthing point (the one you pointed out to me)
- small plug at the wiring loom rail

Strange but I guess the gen change also meant plug change. You CAN de-pin and re-pin also...


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Makes sense. So no extra wires, just in different places then I suppose

Sounds like the usual Audi pin shuffling


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here's a little more info regarding the steering rack loom. This is the run of wiring and points to disconnect marked up.









The one on the left has a bigger plug which has CAN wires. The right side loom has a regular small plug containing the CAN wires. Left gen2, right gen3 loom. Even the oil sensor bracket differs. 









Close ups. (Ignore the bottom plug - it's power and GND) 









I'm actually a bit ahead and got the gen3 rack, quattro front swaybar and sub frame bolted up...


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Just a heads up before you get the engine back in. The 3.2 VR has a PCV valve inside the valve cover which is part of the Cyclone Oil Separator. Audi doesn't offer a replacement diaphragm, but they do offer to replace the ENTIRE FREEKIN' VALVE COVER!

Fortunately you can replace just the diaphragm with an after-market repair kit. Seems pretty straight forward and since you still have the engine out, should be easy enough to get to.

*V6-3.2ltr PCV/CCV Failure & Replacement*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... V#p9110483


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Am all over it SJP [smiley=cheers.gif]

The lovely thing about the 3.6 is that it has a 2 piece inlet manifold.









I'm a big fan of this as serviceability is a breeze where the design saves you from having to detach the front clip to get to the cam cover. All that needs doing is detach intake and associated hoses to the manifold. Remove bolts and the top section lifts out for complete cam cover access. I'm pretty sure I have already replaced the membrane way back when I first removed the engine too.. I'll need to double check it somewhere along the lines.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Interesting - Here's a picture of my 3.2 engine. Oil filler cap is on the opposite side.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah you can see that the section where the PCV is is still in the same location on the 3.2.

Pretty much everything else is pretty much in the same location actually!

(the pic where i've circles the mani bolts are from an R36b engine bay though)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

A little more of a comparison on parts. Here's a side by side of the 2.0 VS 3.6 DP/cat sections








I'll need to modify the 3.6's twin resonators as the width they take up won't allow it to fit into the propshaft tunnel

There's also a clear difference with the internal diameter of the piping with it being larger on the 3.6.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

How does the exhaust compare with the 3.2?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Sorry I don't have that out of the donor 3.2 but I found a pic online where you can see the similarities/ differences.









3.6 OD 56mm
3.2 OD 50mm

I was surprised that the lambda orientation is the same - they're parallel to each other on the R32 DP section that I have.

The engine is in by the way :wink: and fits like a glove


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Would it be easier to use the 3.2 exhaust? I suppose that depends on the diameters of it compared to the 3.6

Exciting stuff!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I just checked the piping size - it's not ideal at all to use the 3.2's pipes - you'd be robbing power because they're much smaller in diameter. Updated my post above for the info.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Good morning everyone - the 3.6 is snug as a bug in a rug!










It's gotten a little dusty in storage so am just giving it a light spray and wipe.


----------



## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Amazing work Ian. what is the HP of the 3.6 and will the additional weight upset the balance of the car


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey Iceblue see below for engine specs.

BWS - R36 from March 08
Displacement: 3597cc
Peak Power: 300 ps / 296 bhp / 221 kw @6600 rpm
Peak torque: 261lbft from 2400-5000rpm
CR: 11.4:1
Stroke: 96.5mm
Bore: 89mm

As for the weight - it's not much more than a 3.2 to be honest as the main differences would only really be piston size and conrods. Everything else is pretty similar in size but have internal changes. Sorry but my scales wouldn't be able to handle an engine and trans on it hahaha.

When we are allowed to travel longer distances I know of a weigh bridge that I could stop off at to get a gross weight!

Have heaps of exciting stuff to show you guys actually :mrgreen:


----------



## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Impressive and I am sure you can take measures to improve handling/balance once you get it going


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Finally the swappage of the engine has been done! Here's a video outlining removal of the front of the car - without a hoist this is the easiest method of removing the engine.

Front bumper bar and radiator support removal video





Key time points
0:07 - Headlight removal
4:09 - Removing bumper to fender nuts
7:41 - Disconnect xenon washer hoses
9:14 - Unplug foglights
10:17 - Removing front bumper

11:56 - Draining coolant
12:48 - Unlink bonnet cable
13:30 - Unplugging sensors (bonnet, a/c)
15:12 - Engine plugs
17:27 - Disconnect 2.0 intake
18:01 - Unplug MAF
18:11 - Disconnect intercooler hoses
19:55 - Disconnect radiator
21:34 - Remove reinforcement bar bolts
22:47 - Double check for anything else requiring removal
24:14 - Remove rad. panel to fender nuts
26:17 - Radiator panbel top bolts
27:18 - Front crash sensor
29:56 - Radiator panel bottom bolts
32:29 - Removing radiator / front clip panel


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Phew - ok i've updated the above post to include the time stamps to be able to "skip to" different parts of the hardware removal.

Would appreciate it if one could test a couple of the time links to make sure they align? Thanks!


----------



## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Checked half a dozen time links and they are spot on.

Well done Ian, you have the patience of a saint!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

happychappy said:


> Checked half a dozen time links and they are spot on.
> 
> Well done Ian, you have the patients if a saint!


Thanks for that happychappy - appreciate it!!!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This should get the truck like sound sorted at the moment and should help clear a bunch load of engine codes.








Once the twin silencer thingies were delete I was more confident in it being able to fit the TT's svelte propshaft tunnel. 
The shape and length is fine and clears the firewall/propshaft even though the piping diameter is larger than the 3.2. However when joining at the clamp I came across another hurdle. The diameters differ. 
R36 = 64mm OD
TT cat back = 59mm OD









Downpipes are now also hooked up to the engine. Have plugged in all o2 sensors as well! Im happy with the sound 

Everything's moving along at an epic pace now!!!


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Put a bigger engine in it they said. It will be awesome they said! :lol:


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

[email protected]

Luckily its quite the opposite.

The 14 pin connector in the engine bay requires some pin reshuffling and some additions to it, the engine fuse box and at the ECU. 









The excitement got to me and this was the result. A broken ECU pin housing [smiley=bigcry.gif] Thank goodness I could use the one from the donor R36 in place of it which you can see on top of the broken one









I cracked on yesterday to get to the point of where the car looks like a car again!









Here we are fresh from the operation. Welcome to the world the 3.6 FrankensTTein. 









After a few more checks for leaks, major errors and body panels I took the car onto the road. 








The ESP and steering wheel light removed itself while getting out of the driveway which was good.

After a quick top up of coolant/demineralised water I decided to take it one step further - a trip to the shops. LOL








You can see the coolant level had dropped a lot more already as it begins to fill up the system. Topped it up more after stocking up on food and a bottle of bubbly.

The soundpipe is incredible especially as you mash the pedal into the floor. The deep engine sound fills the cabin and is a good laugh. With normal driving it's hardly noticeable. There's an incredible amount of torque Too but since the car still doesn't have a few key components for the Haldex to work the front wheels tend to lose traction very easily. I made the ESP error a couple of times on the maiden voyage because of accidental burnouts.

It was a massive weekend and I'm totally thrilled to have already gotten this far. It was very unexpected as I didn't know that I could get the R36 ECU working as quickly as I did. I was planning at least another month off the road but nope. We're up and running as if nothing happened! 
So it's time to cool down and check fluids one more time in the morning before ironing out the final engine errors. I'm so excited!!!


----------



## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)




----------



## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Congratulations! An amazing task (nearly) completed.

Would love to see a picture of the box of left over nuts and bolts...


----------



## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Great work Ian.


----------



## motornoter (Jul 16, 2012)

Congratulations Ian - job well done!!! This has been an amazing thread. Very interesting and excelently presented - what's next????


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Well done Ian

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Great job


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks everyone! I look forward to doing some drag days, track days and of course, more mods! Thanks to all who has pitched in with their information too. It's all valuable!



happychappy said:


> Congratulations! An amazing task (nearly) completed.
> 
> Would love to see a picture of the box of left over nuts and bolts...


Here you go... it's actually just the first two compartments that are left. The other stuff is random bit from the 2.0











motornoter said:


> Congratulations Ian - job well done!!! This has been an amazing thread. Very interesting and excelently presented - what's next????


I'm just going to enjoy the car for the time being! Just have to change the abs module then plug in the Haldex fuse to be AWD. I have a brake upgrade coming up soon too as the oem 2.0 FWD brakes are definitely inadequate for this setup. 
Other than that it's Going to be lots of N/A 3.6 fun for me!!!


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Well done Ian and what a journey. You have a unique skill set and hope to see the beast somewhere in Sydney. Look forward to the next part of the journey and how it drives when you get out all the bugs.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Lived every minute of it

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> Well done Ian and what a journey. You have a unique skill set and hope to see the beast somewhere in Sydney. Look forward to the next part of the journey and how it drives when you get out all the bugs.


Oh i didn't realise you're in Sydney!!! Are you in the Oz group?



HOGG said:


> Lived every minute of it


Still got plenty more to work through... like the following!

Any thoughts appreciated on how to fix these (minor) issues.









I say minor because it seems that the car drives absolutely fine with some dash lights.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

I disappear just for a few weeks...
This :lol: :lol: :lol:



IPG3.6 said:


> After a few more checks for leaks, major errors and body panels I took the car onto the road.
> View attachment 2


This must of felt so good after all of the work within this thread.
Fair fucking play, credit where credit is certainly due.
Build is quality 8)


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

IPG3.6 said:


> Oh i didn't realise you're in Sydney!!! Are you in the Oz group?


Where is the Oz group?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Barr_end said:


> I disappear just for a few weeks...
> 
> 
> SwissJetPilot said:
> ...


See what goes on when you leave this group to run around!? S**t like this happens :lol:

Thank you sir. Really. I mean your build is next level so I rally appreciate it. From everyone whose been popping in with interest really.



Iceblue said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > Oh i didn't realise you're in Sydney!!! Are you in the Oz group?
> ...


https://www.facebook.com/groups/AudiTT8JAus/?ref=share definitely come and introduce yourself.

So I was working to attempt to clear one of the errors relating to fuel pressure last night. 









VCDS is showing that there is definitely something wrong. 
Here is what the measuring blocks 103 and 106 were showing in relation to fuel pressures.









Luckily my partner has an R36 which shows...









Now I can see why the P310B exists because the the pump's being pushed to ~92% duty cycle. Waaaaaaay too close to burning out. Luckily I hadn't really pushed it (over a long period of time!). The R36 values are obviously what I want to be neared to at a higher rail pressure of ~60 bar with the fuel pump working much less at ~34%.

Had some dinner then I set off to attempt a fix.

















I kept the wreck R36's fuel pump unit and now is the tile to bring it back out from storage - fuel pump control module and all. An interesting thing is there's a built in FPR in the lid section rated at 4.2bar. A2C53063749









Off with the back seat to access the fuel pump which is from the 3.2L. 









After a lot of puzzles looks, head scratching, submerging my whole arm in petrol and spilling it all over the garage floor I finally fit a modified version of the R36 fuel pump housing. Some work was required to shorten the spring loaded mechanism in order for the lid to seal and I needed to re use the TT's gasket sealing the lid nicely. I didn't want to ruin the original hard line connections so fabbed up this little half circle that allowed me to utilize the push on fittings. I might neaten this up later as the plastic lid no longer fits. The returnless 3.2 fuel filter/FPR, rated at 4 bar, was removed and replaced with a straight through filter to bridge that gap. 









Bunged the seat back on and fired up VCDS again to check the measuring blocks.








Main things I noticed 
- fuel pressure regular is no longer stuck at 4000 but now has a reading 
- adaptation value elect. fuel pump also has a reading where it was 0 before 
- the demand controlled fuel pump adapt was doing its thing (didn't capture it here though)
- electrical fuel pump is now working at 46% duty cycle unlike straining at 92%

This also led to the CEL turning itself off and the P310B code being able to be cleared and stay off!

Oh yeah. Haldex is working brilliantly too!!! I think a video will tell that story better though.


----------



## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Eagerly awaiting YouTube video that has to be coming.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

IPG3.6 said:


> https://www.facebook.com/groups/AudiTT8JAus/?ref=share definitely come and introduce yourself


I thought it might be Facebook. Alas I am probably the only person in the world not on Facebook largely because I am not sure I have the extra time to manage it. I will ask my daughter if there is a way to register with minimal input so I can get the link. Cheers.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Nidana said:


> Eagerly awaiting YouTube video that has to be coming.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have so much stuff to edit but i haven't put the time aside due to trying to work through the last engine module errors.



Iceblue said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > https://www.facebook.com/groups/AudiTT8JAus/?ref=share definitely come and introduce yourself
> ...


Perfect! Hope you see you on there in a bit.

I was bored and made this chart showing the various power to weight ratios of all the models in the 8J. Measured in kiloWatts per tonne.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Ian

Is your grill a real RS grill or a copy. If it is a copy where did you source it from in Australia as I have an opportunity to replace mine after some A-hole hit my front DS quarter.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh no what a nightmare!! I got it off Facebook marketplace and someone was selling it for $150 but I was lucky to negotiate it down. I haven't seen one on there for a while so you might need to try good old

Let me know if you require panels. I still have front end panels that may be of help to you


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Thanks for the offer but insurance is paying for new front quarter and a new bumper, hence my idea of dropping in a honeycomb grill at the same time.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ahhh right. Hopefully your repairer let's you!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Bye bye now! As you know the parts car was a 3.2 DSG setup. This has been sold.









That means the parts car has now more than paid itself off, same with the parts car the 3.6L engine came from = I made money on the swap :lol:

So good!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

A little bit more method to the madness. Showing the major steps in prepping for an engine / ECU removal. You learn to love the car by the end of it :lol:

Preparing to remove the 2.0 BWA motor





Key time points
0:14- Removing windscreen wipers
3:14- Removing scuttle panel
4:01- Removing ECU from holder
4:38- Cleaning drainage channels
6:19- Releasing ECU plugs
8:32- Removing ECU plugs
9:16- Removing wiring loom
12:09- Removing starter and DSG plugs
13:42- Removing alternator and a/c cabling
15:20- Disconnecting the rest fluid and vacuum lines
20:02- Removing intake/engine cover
20:42- Disconnect brake booster line
21:50- Disconnect heater hore
23:54- Removing pre-cat lambda sensor
26:43- Disconnect shifter cable

27:44- Disconnect driveshafts
33:23- Removing downpipe nuts
36:16- Removing post-cat lambda sensor
37:01- Removing exhaust bracket
38:25- Removing exhaust
39:44- Installing propshaft shield
40:52- Removing undertray brace


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The 2.0 to 3.6 engine swap video!





I can finally start enjoying the car after a surprising turn of events when working to overcome potential ECU issues :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ok... so... i tried a thing. It didn't really work out as i'd predicted but it was fun anyway! :lol: 
Experimenting with an R36 cat.back section


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Wow what a difference with that super car burble


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Just a shame it's too long but I will find a solution to have the best of both worlds.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I FINALLY got all of the engine codes sorted. No more EPC or check engine light remains.





The last one had to do with the intake temp. Sensor being out of whack due to a worn out MAF. Changed that. Cleared the error and it's happy days!

Now... to deal with the next important module.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hi everyone,

I'm requiring some assistance in coding module information. I've highlighted specifically what values i am looking for in the helping vehicles. The part number must have the "A" as i've already tried coding from part numbers that are B>G and the coding doesn't get accepted.









You can see the error in question highlighted pink - it's the sensor in the brake booster (which 3.2 VR6's have but not the FWD 2.0)









Important values your car must have
Part No : 8J0614517*A* 
Coding: xxxxxxx *<this is the data i am after*

The coding is able to be changed easily (no login codes required) and is accepted only when i've used variants of xxxxxxxxxA. The variants i've tried so far either still have my error or another error appears wanting to see the apaptive dampener module installed. My plan is to avoid having to change the brake booster out as this would probably mean dropping the engine! Pressing a few buttons is going to be the much preferred option.

So to summarise. If your car is
- Quattro
- no adaptive dampeners
- 2.0
- DSG (i'll try a manual car's coding too)

Can you please help by sharing your
*- Coding: xxxxxxxxx (7 digits)
*- found under control module address 03: ABS Brakes

Thank you.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

This is how the ABS modules are coded. I'm not sure if the calculated coding is calculated differently based on the ABS module installed.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks Wolvez!

I can see how that is "step a" in making my own coding but would need the calculator as you mentioned to get the short 7 digits. What are you using to see that info? As you can see we only have a 7 digit coding input. No long coding options like Mk60ec1.

I have ODIS that I've not yet tried but I think for now a process of elimination might do the trick.

I might just add that ABS braking, cruise control, and regular braking all are working fine.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

ODIS will display that menu when coding the ABS module.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Alright let's try ODIS 8)


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Mine is version E, but otherwise meets your criteria.

2012.
Quattro.
Dsg.
Hill hold.
Normal suspension.

If of use? I'll take a screenshot of vcds.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

I have no suffix:
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8J0-614-517.clb
Part No SW: 8J0 614 517 HW: 8J0 614 517 
Component: ESP MK60E1 0130 
Revision: 00H52001 
Coding: 0026177
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
VCID: 6ADB2B28455E091A6B-803E

V6 - 2007 - roadster - mag ride - no hill hold -


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Llewkcalb said:


> Mine is version E, but otherwise meets your criteria.
> 
> 2012.
> Quattro.
> ...


I'll try it anyway! no harm in doing so and it might help to "nut out" what the short coding bits mean



JohnnyFarmer said:


> I have no suffix:
> Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8J0-614-517.clb
> Part No SW: 8J0 614 517 HW: 8J0 614 517
> Component: ESP MK60E1 0130
> ...


Thanks i'll give it a go tomorrow.

Please keep them coming if you can :-*


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## Llewkcalb (Jul 15, 2019)

Llewkcalb said:


> Mine is version E, but otherwise meets your criteria.
> 
> 2012.
> Quattro.
> ...


Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8J0-614-517.clb
Part No SW: 8J0 614 517 E HW: 8J0 614 517 E
Component: ESP MK60E1 0010 
Revision: 00H60001 
Coding: 0610195
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
VCID: 2F6B65E7BE9F9E66327-807A

No fault code found.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Take a look at the attachments, they may be of interest. (or not) 

*2007 Roadster, German Spec, 3.2 Quattro, Mag. Shocks -*

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8J0-614-517.clb
Part No SW: 8J0 614 517 HW: 8J0 614 517 
Component: ESP MK60E1 0130 
Revision: 00H52001 
Coding: 0026177
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
VCID: 6A8C3291C07969C7E5E-803E

View attachment VAG Vehicle Communication Software Manual - 2009.pdf

View attachment VAG Vehicle Communication Software Manual - 2013.pdf


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

thank you swisse . what are those manuals for? ODIS? looks like they are for mk1 gen vehicles


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

You can change the hardware part # by flashing the ABS module using ODIS Engineering software.

Have you already installed the software on your computer?
Installing ODIS software is very time consuming. 
Approximately 10-14 hours.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah I have installed Odis S and Odis E but I've just got used it yet.

Fingers crossed it helps me work things out. I'll give it a go on my lunch break.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *IPG3.6* - I honestly don't know where I picked them up. I just happened to find them in a folder I keep of Audi related PDF files which I've collected over time and thought they might be useful. Thus the (or not) comment.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Only just caught up with the videos, but they are very interesting to watch and good work


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

thanks @MT-V6 more to come that can hopefully unravel some information on systems not typically found on the youtubes.

Just finding it hard to find the time lately to record and edit videos.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

*How to: ABS pump/control module change*


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

So the unit is just push-fit then, once the lines are removed?

And all the brake lines were the same size (I've read in some places there can be differences, though I think that is for the MK60EC1 only? - haven't actually looked into it)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yep the unit sits in there with rubber feet that push into holes in a bracket that bolts onto the chassis rails.

Double yep for the brake line fittings all being the same size too!


----------



## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Thank v much for the ABS module replacement vid - Should give me the confidence to replace my A4 allroad module & retrofit TPMS & Hill hold assist 

https://www.audienthusiasts.com/Projects.html


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Nice one 
I've come to the conclusion I need to replace mine, this doesn't look difficult at all.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

JohnnyFarmer said:


> Thank v much for the ABS module replacement vid - Should give me the confidence to replace my A4 allroad module & retrofit TPMS & Hill hold assist
> 
> https://www.audienthusiasts.com/Projects.html


That's an awesome project AND might be something i will also tackle if i can find a suitable upgrade to have hill hold in the TT. I quite like that feature on the Passat R36. I believe TPMS is already available on our ABS modules anyway ?? someone else may be able to confirm.



Rufflesj said:


> Nice one
> I've come to the conclusion I need to replace mine, this doesn't look difficult at all.


Not too hard at all but just make sure you have VCDS to bleed the ABS pump. I would've been manually bleeding all day long (which i didn't show but it added 1 hour until i threw the towel in an used VCDS :lol: ) if i didn't have the right hardware/software to electronically bleed the brakes. Once i started the process as about cycle 2 and one bottle of brake fluid later - i had a normal brake pedal feel again.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:



> That's an awesome project AND might be something i will also tackle if i can find a suitable upgrade to have hill hold in the TT. I quite like that feature on the Passat R36. I believe TPMS is already available on our ABS modules anyway ?? someone else may be able to confirm.


Both are options for the TT, I think it requires the MK60EC1 module for both, with long coding

I was wondering about which version module/pump is required through based on your issues with the V6/2.0 brake booster compatibility


----------



## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Might a newer ABS pump/ECU allow cruise control to brake as well as accelerate? My 2010 A4 does this - my 2007 TT does not. Also I wonder what the compatibility is if splitting ECU & Pump - My A4 would have a button by the electronic handbrake (yuk!) for hill hold assist if fitted - MT-V6 are you saying that there were later model Mk2s with it from factory - do you know how it was controlled?


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

In the TT there is no button, it just does it. Can only be changed via coding/adaptation. Are you thinking of 'auto hold' in you A4? Which is quite common in cars with electric handbrakes


----------



## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Yes - thanks MT-V6 I think you're right - so - Put simply - Am I right in thinking that on a hill for those few seconds without using the handbrake - rather than slip the DSG clutches, the TT version simply brakes via ABS pump/ECU & 'puts the DSG clutch down'? Only slipping momentarily when you start off again.


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Something like that, I've driven an A1 DSG and that's basically how it worked


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Rufflesj said:


> Nice one
> I've come to the conclusion I need to replace mine, this doesn't look difficult at all.


Not too hard at all but just* make sure you have VCDS to bleed the ABS pump*. I would've been manually bleeding all day long (which i didn't show but it added 1 hour until i threw the towel in an used VCDS :lol: ) if i didn't have the right hardware/software to electronically bleed the brakes. Once i started the process as about cycle 2 and one bottle of brake fluid later - i had a normal brake pedal feel again.[/quote]

You're joking? We need VCDS just to bleed brakes?! Man these cars are an electronic nightmare :roll:

Is it possible to get the pin connector released and give a good spray of electronic cleaner, or only accessible when the unit is loosened off? My fault is random as to when the dash lights show, could be 1 mile or 50miles before it'll come on after sitting for a night.Also sometimes I can wipe it off with Carista and sometimes it won't budge.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Rufflesj said:


> Not too hard at all but just* make sure you have VCDS to bleed the ABS pump*. I would've been manually bleeding all day long (which i didn't show but it added 1 hour until i threw the towel in an used VCDS :lol: ) if i didn't have the right hardware/software to electronically bleed the brakes. Once i started the process as about cycle 2 and one bottle of brake fluid later - i had a normal brake pedal feel again.
> 
> *You're joking? We need VCDS just to bleed brakes?! Man these cars are an electronic nightmare :roll:
> *


Yes to effectively bleed the ABS module as you WILL get air in it when doing the swap. if you have a pressure bleeder that should also suffice and will need to make sure it can reach at least 1.9bar. (i think that is the spec.... or 2 bar. Let's just say 2 bar!)



Rufflesj said:


> Is it possible to get the pin connector released and give a good spray of electronic cleaner, or only accessible when the unit is loosened off? My fault is random as to when the dash lights show, could be 1 mile or 50miles before it'll come on after sitting for a night.Also sometimes I can wipe it off with Carista and sometimes it won't budge.


Yep it's totally possible without having to remove any of the hard lines. Probably the most cost effective fix to attempt before going in too deep.


----------



## Rufflesj (Jun 22, 2020)

Cheers mate, I may as well try spraying the connectors as a last ditch attempt before buying a recon'd unit and VCDS


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Good luck sir. Hope that fixes it.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I developed a rear knock sound and decided to check what it was. Worked logically through all the obvious stuff and found the issue - big oopsies on my behalf!


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

At least it was a fairly easy and free fix


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

[smiley=dude.gif] yes for sure!!!

Back to the hunt for parts hahahahaha


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I've got the dreaded front suspension knock, twang, creak, clack, clang, tick sound which I've noticed only occurs when doing slow maneuvers and when the car is cold. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the top of the strut so I'm going to throw these HD strut tops and new bearings at it to see if that alleviates it.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ahhhh the feeling of 
1- satisfaction
2- thank good i don't have to drop the engine to replace the brake booster!

As you've seen i was working through ABS/brake booster issues. Thanks to all who had helped with providing their ABS module coding as i was able to try all of the different combinations. All of which none really worked out properly - coming up with errors or the same type of errors. Here's my "log" where I was trying to work out what coding meant what...









Well... it was all totally random to me and i couldn't figure it out BUT what i did notice was that no harm was done in changing this coding. I could change the coding and i would either get new errors relating to other hardware or not. In one instance i locked myself out by turning off the brake booster in adaptations... so yeah DON'T do that if you're working through ABS errors! hahahaha A simple closing of the control module then accessing it again stopped the permanent ABS flashing light thought. *phew*

So what did i end up doing? Since the coding is so short in the MK60E1 and it all seemed a bit random when using other user's codings - i took that approach and guessed! :lol: My strategy was - play around with the numbers until i get what i want.

So... how did that go?









I can now move on to upgrading brake components :-*









Has anyone ever ridden in their back seats? I don't recommend! haha Although my friends had a good time enjoying the ride and pumping some 90's dance music.

In other news... (i'll let the pictures do the talking)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Needed to do the engine oil and filter so I made a video for it.

This is the same for all 3.2/3.6 VR6 engines (the only thing different might be oil cap placement and hardware blocking the access to the oil filter drain and screw cap). I share some handy tips to finish the job in the most trouble free manner along with resetting the cluster "Service due!" FIS notification.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hi all! Long time no post but now that I don't have an engine or ABS error showing up on the dash I've been able to just enjoy the car and get back into other things. Mainly looking forward to refreshing and moving into a new place which I can call mine.

Thought I'd put this little review together on the Soundpipe / Soundaktor system which I am pleasantly surprised and totally happy with retrofitting into the car. There isn't much info on it so I've broken the system down and have included sound clips of the engine sound being piped into the cabin. All that sound without being "that car" with the loud and obnoxious exhaust system. What do you think? Like it or hate it?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Awful noise! Makes a sound like the big end bearings are shot


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Interesting overview, good to see where it enters the cabin, I'll look out for it next time I have the trim removed


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Dang - say whatever you like but I am going to be removing that sound deadening foam from inside that tube on my 3.2 right away.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Awful noise! Makes a sound like the big end bearings are shot


Hahaha Barry you over exaggerator! 
I can most definitely say it's way different to big end bearing noise... ask me how I know.








*cringe* that was a sad day!



MT-V6 said:


> Interesting overview, good to see where it enters the cabin, I'll look out for it next time I have the trim removed


You can stick your head under with the full dash trim in place (it's in place in my video) it's not blocked by anything unless you have the foam piece in it.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

83kY said:


> Dang - say whatever you like but I am going to be removing that sound deadening foam from inside that tube on my 3.2 right away.


Yup - way more beefier sound with it removed!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Had a bit of fun over the weekend with some great friends, some old friends, mostly new. Took the TT3.6 out for it's longest voyage since the swap.









When we got there - there was some offloading to be done. The TT3.6 was being used mainly as the storage car for the day.









There was a nice turnout of motors for our group ranging from and older 4 banger, Audi A3 8L, RWD V8, a drop top SLK, Mazda 6 MPS and the TTRS. I was co-pilot in the Nissan Pulsar/Sunny SSS N13. It was a great little car around the track and was great fun to learn on we as most of us had never been here before.

















We had an R36 wagon come along too but the owner only wished to spectate due to DSG issues. I also didn't plan to run the TT3.6 due to (mainly) being underbraked. I got some cool shots though! Racing start at 9 and was wrapping up at around 3.

















Toward the end of the day we started switching it up and taking each other for spins around the track. It was super fun feeling different cars act their own unique way around the bends and straights. It was a small, tight track, and the straight didn't allow for a super high speed. The Pulsar performed solidly out there and didn't miss a beat. My best time was 1:18 with the best time of the day (in our group) being 1:02 by the owner of the TTRS. From about 3:15PM it was a free for all (most other people had left by this time)... I maxxed out on the straight at spoiler up KM p/hr :wink: 
















Spoiler up!









FrankensTTein TT3.6 corners flat as a pancake and although i didn't get as much track time as everyone else i was pretty happy with the time of 1:08 (given that was maybe only 6 or so laps in total). The brakes were smoking at the end of the runs [smiley=bomb.gif] 
It was a great day and was a such teaser of what the car can do - most definitely needs a better brake/pad combo as i feel it would get quite brake fadey if i were to do the whole 15 minute time slot on the 2.0 FWD brakes. Some video footage to come - i was mighty impressed by the very minimal roll around this bendy track 8)

This is where all of this time and effort starts to pay off. I thoroughly enjoyed the short stint out there!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I've received many questions on upgrading the instrument cluster to the white style FIS screen. I detail *one* option in the video below. Disclaimer: this is not a simple DIY mod. but am happy to help if people are willing to undergo the process.
Instrument cluster upgrade (red to white backlight) using IMMO off


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Car looks great Ian and look forawrd to the brake upgrade which I am considering as well although for FWD


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks iceblue!

Will keep you updated re brake upgrade. Something good is coming where, again, not much information is found. So I'll elaborate on how I go about it.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

For those who appreciate a good track day I've put the video footage together and have made a little review of how the car went. In total we only got ~10 laps (i don't even think it was that many at all) but it's a great sign of things to come, especially when critical components (brakes) have been sorted!
FrankensTTein Audi TT3.6 - first track day review





Can't wait to do another!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

[smiley=bigcry.gif]

A section of my undertray broke off during a drive - completely my fault for not re-installing the complete thing but luckily i had spares at hand. Made a quick video to show how it looks after it ate itself to shreds and also discuss an OEM upgrade.
VIDEO - Why you should always install your complete undertray fittings - upgrade info inside


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well that sucks! Sorry to see you with damaged parts.  I actually left both my under pans off today for the same reason; leak check after installing a new ECS Tuning Oil Filter Housing Cap and Stahlbus drain valve. Fortunately, it was just slow driving through the local hills (<80kph) just to get things warmed up and to check for oil leaks. In my case, I got home without any issues. But yeah, definitely good advice!


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

BTDT, I left my undertray off about a year ago because it had some (minor) damage done by the previous owner and I was looking for a replacement / upgrade. Well - having it off (forgetting it was off) caused the exact same damage so I can underline this. Though haven't really done anything to it yet but it is on my to-do list (order new oe-parts from Germany) when I get the car back on the road which is in a few weeks because the dear beloved 306 S16 is going into winter storage.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

i think if they're going to be left off it's best to remove the small little triangle section too - as long as the rest of the upper arch plastics are still secured it should be OK to run without them long term.

@83kY will you consider the upgrade parts?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I got some new parts to retrofit!

















I've powered up the LED's on bench and put them in the optic housing to find that, as with all other reviews the light output at the handle recess it quite... lacklustre. Most of the light actually bleeds out of the rear of the housing. Haha. Bit useless but I have also ordered upgrade LED's as others have done to have a more pronounced effect.

These will be in addition to adding 
- DRL headlight knob surround
- LED interior light unit w/the home link buttons (Does anyone actually use these buttons? How do you find it works?)









Gunna try do my best to capture before and afters of the (lighting) mods.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Apologies for the lack of updates folks - I have been busy doing mods on my place and it's taking away lots of time from car mods. 









Although very rewarding the only things I can get done on the TT are if I send it in to get jobs done. As summer is fast approaching I decided to get some UV blocking tints

























At 15% all around it makes the cabin much more pleasant to be in and air con doesn't need to work as hard... but now I can't use my windows for a few days :lol: Another bonus is that night time driving is more pleasant due to other cars headlights being less blinding - i find that the lower position has every normal car and SUV's headlights always being in the perfect position to reflect right into my eyes.









Also...
























































(Naturally I had to tear it apart)

The Varex has the Bluetooth box so not only can I use the keyfob to control the exhaust valve (I would like to hardwire this control in... more on that later  ) but the app also expands control with:

MANUAL MODE:
Precise manual adjustment of VAREX exhaust valve positions;
Custom pre-set of VAREX exhaust valve position

MATRIX MODE (ONLY WORKS WITH VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH OBD-II):
Automatic control of VAREX exhaust valve positions based on real-time information of RPM, throttle and speed.

GEO MODE:
Set valve actuation within a set radius of a specific location(s). Outside of this location another percentage can be set.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looking forward to seeing this exhaust in action 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

me too! Just need to book it in to get welding sorted! It should be good 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Finally i can fit the S-line verge trim. After months and months of searching fo someone who would be able to send a facelift side skirt i finally got one sent down from Japan.
Unfortunately the first one i got had already been repaired and was significantly bowed - i didn't notice until i fitted it. I needed to grind off quite a lot of material for it to even look like it sat flush. So all this time it's been hanging off the side of the car :lol: 
















Finally this piece can be attached to complete this update.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

Be nice to know how you wire the handle lights in, I have the same but still not installed yet as wiring is not my strong point


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good to see you finally got the sideskirts sorted!



Knight-tts said:


> Be nice to know how you wire the handle lights in, I have the same but still not installed yet as wiring is not my strong point


This should help http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... &t=1301537


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Knight-tts said:


> Be nice to know how you wire the handle lights in, I have the same but still not installed yet as wiring is not my strong point


I'll be following MT's footsteps and also upgrading the LED's - will make a video of the progress (when i get time to get back to car mods).

The 2 piece rotors for the 17z's have also arrived. Haven't had a peep in the box just yet but i think they're going to be a sight to behold.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have some small updates to break myself back into working on the TT3.6 after renovations.

Since it's warming up down in Oz and corona is well under control we are all moving about a lot more. This means more driving for me and use of the air con. Lucky I got it gassed up and no leaks after the conversion BUT it smells like farts. Literally like something died and it gets wafted through the cabin when the a/c is on. Not so great! So I changed the pollen filter ... it was well overdue and explains the sulfurous stench!

















I've been wanting to dress the coilpack wiring with a cover 








however the OEM one that belongs to this engine has a big fat VW badge on it - not ideal.

Luckily the Q7 has a coilpack cover which looks quite good and non-offensive to the 4 rings. After some modding I got it sitting nicely.









Engine bay all ready go and cabin smells fresh again for an interstate trip coming up in a couple of weeks time.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That neatens up the engine nicely

If the smells persist it might be worth trying an 'air con bomb', the aerosol that you place in the car with air con set to recycle. Though I've never used one myself


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Good tip! I've never heard of those before but hopefully they work.

I am lucky that the flatulence smell has definitely gone!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

With the cabin filter out, the cover on and the HVAC fan running, spray (mist) a bottle of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) into the intake. This will help kill any mold or fungus that may have developed in your HVAC system. The AC doesn't need to be running, just the HVAC fan.

You won't want to sit in the car when you do this, but leave the doors open and windows down. Change the vent settings so you get it through all the HVAC outlets. The IPA will evaporate pretty quickly so there's no risk to surfaces.

There's also this from the KB -

*How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Eliminate A/C Smells and Odors*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1839339

You may want to cut down on your bean burrito intake too!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Noted : less burrito's :lol:

Well it's nice now there is no stench at any time.

I finally started stripping these Brembo 17z calipers









While they actually looked ok (a bit messy with brake dust) the removal of some components was a bit tricky and very messy. Thank god for cardboard!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Well what a huge difference a good clean has made! I had FappinFabrication's - Alex do some vapour blasting on them and boy oh boy what a mighty big change!

























Some shots for people into the detail. I assume these are Brembo PM'd and not Audi ones as the nomenclature doesn't fall under the typical naming convention. These are unpainted. 

























I was hoping that there would be their composition stamped on the body like they are on the engine block or cylinder head as I really like this raw look and would like to know if I need to coat it in anything. If anyone has insight as to the caliper material that would be great.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Now that the brakes were cleaned up i can get onto the rebuild. Here is the repair kit that i used. Bigg Red.The company is UK based so perfect for the majority of the people on this forum.









Opened the packet to be greeted with fresh seals and dust boots. May look confusing but all makes sense as taking them apart i was able to understand where the different parts came from plus they're all slightly different sizes.









Pistons out of the freezer and ready to be re-installed. The new rubber components definitely feel firmer than what i took out.









One row all refreshed and good to go! Rinse and repeat on the remaining 3 rows.









The rebuild process (not the teardown) wasn't actually that difficult and didn't take too long. I like how the rebuild kit comes with lube so you have everything required to easily and properly refresh the calipers. This is a job that i was putting off for such a long time because i've never done a caliper rebuild before but now i know - it actually wasn't that hard!

I look forward to getting these on and upgrading the MC, will be posting up the rebuild and install when that time comes so look out for the big YouTube update soon.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Very interesting Ian. Assume these are not the standard brakes. Where did you get them as they are obviously second hand. Apologies in advance if I missed this detail from earlier in your thread.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

They are standard in the VAG range and found on Touareg's, Cayenne's and Q7's. These are the 17z model and the other popular model is the 18z.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Are they three pot and did you get them from a wreckers or somewhere else? Do they fit straight on with no mods?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> Are they three pot and did you get them from a wreckers or somewhere else? Do they fit straight on with no mods?


These are 6 pot brakes - so 3 on each side of the caliper housing, yes from a wrecker and they SHOULD bolt on with the "right" hardware. All will be explained once i get up to finally installing them  Install video to follow.

Meanwhile - FrankensTTein 3.6 is making his first interstate trip now that Corona restrictions are easing up.









Love Australian roads

































and after ~1200km of driving we're back in the 'burbs - at best fuel economy was at 8.6L/100km's. Pretty good for a 3.6L donk!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nice photos, looks like some good roads and weather

You were very prepared, most people don't take spare calipers on their road trips


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hahaha i have a bunch of annual leave saved up so have bought all the parts that have piled up for FrankensTTein 3.6 with me to do on my time off.

So far so good! I am definitely looking forward to the brake upgrade.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

How was the drive Ian, the Great Ocean Road would be great in a TT without a lot of traffic. Bet the Toyota Cressida had a time keeping up :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> How was the drive Ian, the Great Ocean Road would be great in a TT without a lot of traffic. Bet the Toyota Cressida had a time keeping up :lol:


TT was excellent although i had to stay smooth and relatively within the speed limits of the winding back pass to Apollo Bay because of the boot full of luggage and tools.

It's a Nissan Skyline R31  It kept pace pretty well but was coming across hesitation issues so couldn't push it as hard. Another project for another forum.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The 17z's + 25mm master cylinder and on and have been for a leak test drive for the MC and brakes lines system plus a break in drive for the pads and all I can say is - worth it!

First the caliper size comparison. 









Here's a sneak peak while I work on the video for this upgrade.
Brembo 17z 6 pot calipers + 330mm rotors (this setup is taken from Touareg, Q7 or Cayenne)

























One of the many aspects that I love is that it looks OEM. Look out for the video soon!


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

I wonder what the weight and road feel difference is between standard and all the upgraded bits, caliper, rotors, master cylinder etc. Mine is FWD so no Haldex weight in the back. Maybe not significant but thought I'd ask


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

They look really good, especially those discs. Nice and OEM just how I like it

Would be cool if you could somehow do a comparison between these and the RS setup, or even the 340mm V6/TTS setup


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> I wonder what the weight and road feel difference is between standard and all the upgraded bits, caliper, rotors, master cylinder etc. Mine is FWD so no Haldex weight in the back. Maybe not significant but thought I'd ask


As a quick overview the car feels more capable with stopping. It bites earlier and stronger, but then the stopping power at this earlier point is more capable at slowing the car down rather that the car still feeling like it's pushing along.

On harder braking i found i could trigger the ABS easily with the FWD stock setup - now... i will stop, with control, no ABS pumping away. The setup essentially feels safer. Stronger.

Have booked a track day for a few weeks away so that will be the true test but so far it's been worth it! Had a bit of a blurt with a Commodore VP Wagon off the lights... no hope! 



MT-V6 said:


> They look really good, especially those discs. Nice and OEM just how I like it
> 
> Would be cool if you could somehow do a comparison between these and the RS setup, or even the 340mm V6/TTS setup


Hehehe that would be a really good comparison (i will file the thought in the back of my mind) but it's just doing it somewhere suitable, where we're able to film, without getting hassled would be the issue. :roll:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

For those of you who would be interested in a cost effective big brake solution i've recorded the whole process i went through to get my kit up and running. The process is not perfect and i do some boo-boo's in the video but hey, we live and we learn.

In this first video you'll see
- dirty Brembo 17z's
- teardown of the 17z's
- their transformation
- rebuild process

I'm going to endeavour to have the videos in as bite size chunk as possible without using fast forward and minimising cuts as that's some feedback i've received. These videos will be slow to get to the goal but it does give you an appreciation of how much time things actually take.

*Audi TT Mk2 Epic Big Brake Upgrade part 1 - 17z Brembo Caliper Teardown & Rebuild Guide*


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I mean... i'm not complaining AT ALL! :mrgreen:









Next video update coming soon. 
Just have a me7.1.1>MED9.1 swap loom to get cracking on! lol


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:


> I mean... i'm not complaining AT ALL! :mrgreen:
> 
> 
> Next video update coming soon.
> Just have a me7.1.1>MED9.1 swap loom to get cracking on! lol


 sounds interesting, what's that for?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > I mean... i'm not complaining AT ALL! :mrgreen:
> ...


I'm not sure if you got them there in the UK but it's going to be for a Bora 4motion (Mk4 Gold generation).

Fun facts with the brake upgrade.

I have gone from the 2.0 FWD setup:
Front: 1 piston (54mm), 312mm x 28mm vented rotor. 
Rear: 1 piston (38mm), 286mm x 12mm vented rotor. 
23mm master cylinder

To the 17z Brembo 6 piston caliper + 3.2 VR6 rear setup:
Front: 6 piston (34/36/38mm x 2 per caliper), 330mm x 30mm vented & slotted rotor. 
Rear: 1 piston (41mm), 310mm x 22mm vented rotor.
25mm master cylinder

I should've weighed the assemblies before bolting them on but it didn't cross my mind as i was trying to figure out the install and record video at the same time.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here we go with part 2 of the 17z big brake kit upgrade. 
- dry test fit of all components
(some of the roadblocks i encountered)
- wet fit
- I've tried to give different viewing angles for a comprehensive overview of the area

Audi TT Mk2 Epic Big Brake Upgrade part 2 - 17z Brembo Caliper & Forza 2 piece floating rotors


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You need to load up your TT onto a freighter, bring it over here and run it on the German autobahns. Give those big honkin' brakes a real workout! 

On a more serious note, if you're working on the Master Cylinder, would you have time to do a DIY on replacing the Brake Light Sensor? Evidently it's a real PITA for RHD owners to even get to it. Shown below is the one on my LHD, which is pretty easy to get to once the air box is out of the way. But as I understand for RHD owners, it's almost an "engine out" procedure to get to it.

I ran a quick check on Ross Tech, and it looks like the fault code is *00526 - Brake Light Switch*. Any chance you can pull the connector from the sensor and see if you get this fault code?

Any thing you can provide on this topic would be greatly appreciated by our UK cousins!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SJP I wish I were able to spot over to hit some of the tracks!!! Don't worry another track day is booked for the 20th where I'm super excited to finally run the TT3.6 for the whole day and not only the final 20 minutes.

Urgh that MC. I did upgrade and tried to capture as much as I could. It's not fun at all and (I'm sorry) but I'm not going to get back in there just to pull the plug to test for an error because it is way too out of reach to even try to do this seemingly "simple" test.

I can confirm though 
- you _can_ get the MC out without dropping the engine or removing any mount bolts
- I resorted to using regular spanners to loosen the hydraulic lines because the proper crow feet spanners don't allow for any movement unless I were to drop the coolant and shift all the hoses out of the way 
- the only way I could physically pull that plug off from the sensor was only once I'd removed the master and reservoir from the booster and tilted it back a bit
- upon re installation I couldn't even get the retaining bolt for the reservoir back in because you literally can't get any tool in there to tighten the T15 torx back on because it installs on the strut side where they should've really made it screw in from the other side of the reservoir RHD cards
- basically everything is in the way or pretty much inaccessible
- it's stupidly hard to do

Next video will cover the MC change also VCDS brake bleed procedure. Installing the brake kit was relatively straightforward compared to the master cylinder change (unfortunately)

EDIT: I also just noticed that your MC is a completely different design to the RHD ones and the hydraulic lines are on the same side whereas the RHD MC's have a port on either side of the shaft. Strange!

ALSO (This makes me mad! Haha) the reservoir retaining bolt is on the ideal side for the RHD setup!!! Why Audi! WHY!!!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

As we have all learned over the years, Audi doesn't design & build cars for ease of maintenance!  Cheers!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I will do my best to address your concerns in the video SJP :wink:

I was tagged in this little resource re: brake pad options for both 17z and 18z calipers. Thought it would be good to link to if people are looking for an aftermarket brake pad option. It's a WIP so if it's incomplete please request editing access to round it out.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Really good videos for the brake upgrade. Couple of questions: do the new pads have the same wear sensor connectors? Also if you had the 17z pads, would they still have needed grinding to fit or would they go straight on?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks @MT.

The wear sensor plug is the same and this box has a pair of them. So now I have a spare as the TT only has it on the PAX side.

The difference is that there are two "sensors", one in each pad, for the one caliper.

Getting the proper pads would've meant straight install and no faffing. Me = #stupidboy


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So this is the sick joke that Audi calls the "simple way" to remove the brake master cylinder. All seems pretty straightforward when you read through it.










When you actually get to doing the job, on a right hand drive vehicle, the instructions don't cover the pain, sweat and tears (both of sadness and happiness), let alone the proper method that you will go through to get the job done. :lol:

I'll semi-cover the removal on the RHD VR6 soon. I say "semi-cover" because it was so difficult to capture exactly what i was doing because there is zero space for the camera, let alone tools, to see anything useful.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here is part 3 of the 17z Brembo big brake upgrade. I cover
- brake master cylinder upgrade and the challenges of doing this on RHD platform
- brake bleeding (after first struggling with vacuum, manual and blocked lines)
- detailed VCDS brake bleed procedure full run through
- the _almost_ finished setup!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good video, especially the VCDS procedure


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks. Was trying to keep that section as "real life" as possible - cable becoming unplugged and all! Hahaha

Changing that master cylinder though [smiley=bomb.gif] ...I'm glad that job is done!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Did a thing that I have been meaning to do for a while. I actually bought this sticker kit when the 3.6 engine was still on a dolly and I had just bought the Mk2. Using the factory measurements I did my best to get the placement right.

*FACTORY REAR BADGE PLACEMENT*









Masked off the edges to these measurements and went ahead with the placement of "3.6" - had to use tweezers for the dot point









Removed that top layer and gave the final line for "Quattro" a wipe down with iso alcohol.
















I know 3.2's don't have the numbering and just the Quattro emblem but thought I'd add this on there for those who look closer as a hint as to what might me going on under the bonnet.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Bad mechatronic VS good mechatronic in an Audi TT Mk2 8J - back to back comparison.

In prep for the track day this weekend i've decided to finally tackle this major issue since this gearbox was being used in our Passat R36 - clunky as hell gear changes and reverse gear engagement. You will see in the video that there is a significant jolting of the engine. This jolt makes the whole car jerk and is especially prominent when stopping at the lights (although not all the time) and more often when engaging reverse gear after a long drive. It would also "drop" the gear where the logo in the FIS would disappear and an engine restart was the only thing to get the DSG to work again. It would also throw errors for unexpected mechanical disengagement and solenoid codes.

*If you have any of these following symptoms you probably want to check the mecha*
- clunky downshifting
- inconsistent low speed acceleration
- jerky acceleration
- big clunks and jerking car when shifting into reverse
- gear icon disappears from instrument cluster

A simple oil and filter change did not fix it as i had already done that when this gearbox was being used in the R36 (silly me swapped in the _good_ DSG that was originally mated to the engine that i'd swapped in).

The result in changing the mecha. gives a significant improvement, although not perfect, to the gearshifts. It is most noticeable when going into reverse without it having to repeatedly attempt to engange and now doesn't drop out and loses the gear.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Finally most of the pieces of the puzzle, aesthetically, have come together. Not only is this change bringing a different form but it's bringing together the function of offloading unsprung weight.

Here I change the Speedline BBS style wheels for Neuspeed flow formed wheels. I've done a weight comparison of one wheel with tyres of each setup and there is a significant advantage of one over the other.

YouTube link - Neuspeed lightweight wheels for the Audi TT Mk2 VS Speedline BBS 2 piece OEM wheels. I absolutely love them not only for the looks but I can also feel the difference driving the car, especially pushing in and out of corners and ultimately (for daily use) pushing off from standstill. 





The brake setup - I'm still finding it quite incredible. There will be a more comprehensive update as I've recently had a good go at pushing the build at a full track day (not just a few laps at the end of the day). Again, after a full day's work, the build was able to drive home, no issues, albeit a tank a lot less full.

There is a full 360 degree walk around in the video but here's one last static image to compare the two setups - what do you prefer?


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Prefer the Neuspeed


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks @Flashy. Me too.


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Not only are the Neuspeed a lovely looking wheel, you got them in a great colour. Would be my choice on my white car too.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

It was a fluke as i just put it out there on our VW/Audi groups if anyone was selling anything from ET45 > ET40 and luckily these came up! They would look lovely on your Ibis White!

I've thought black and bronze would look great together and was contemplating painting the calipers in bronze. Now that i have this aesthetic (silver brakes, silver mirrors, bronze wheels on black car) i'm completely satisfied with the look :mrgreen:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Happy New Year fellow TT lovers!

I've been on holiday for the past few weeks so i was finally able to tackle the installation, upgrading and recording of some parts i've had stashed away.

Now that the BBK upgrade is done it's time to move onto smaller components that have been previously covered by some of the greats on this forum.

In this next video i cover How to install TTRS / R8 slotted door hands in an Audi TT Mk2 8J & upgrade in-handle ambient LED as written out by forum legends MT-V6 and ReTTro fit.






https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1301537 - original thread.

They look next level and the way the light catches the angles definitely makes them look special. The OEM LED's are a bit lacking but performing the upgrade helps especially when turning off the car to exit the cabin. Enjoy!


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Funny how wheels do every single time, massively change look of a car.
They are much more fitting in my opinion!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks @Barr_end! I'm completely happy with the choice and lucky enough to have them offered up as they weren't listed anywhere. I asked and then they came :mrgreen:

I've gone and done a massive road trip where the photos are being uploaded into my instragram. It's been about 6000km of driving with a track day and spirited mountain thrown in there too. The build has been without any major issues this whole time so I'm completely happy with the FeabkensTTein 3.6 swap (apart from the DSG being clunky but that will be removed somewhere along the lines anyway).

I found this height at the rear a bit hilarious for the trip back home and my main concern was scrubbing on dips while on the major freeway from Melbourne to Sydney. This was cause by a very full car!

















I'm happy to say that not once did it scrub. The tyres are a letting stretched but I don't think I'd be able to run the full spec 255/35's on there. Here is the car height unloaded after getting home. I definitely will not lower the height any more than this. The extra allowance is always welcome!









Gauranteed i'd forget to bring this with me 1/2 the time getting out the car and would have to grab it. Mask wearing is pretty much every day life now. 









And just one more shot before my holidays finish.









This doesn't mean the videos will stop though as I was able to record a few good mods and other footage while away. I'm glad to see the forum updated so now all of my video thumbnail links work properly in desktop Chrome browser so if you've been seeing random big gaps in my posts please click back to the contents page or previous pages and you will now be able to see all posts as i intended. Big thank you to all who assisted in this upgrade!

Ian.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Great work and background bird noises in suburban Sydney Iol. Sounds like you have an avery somewhere nearby.

Did you ever tighten the screw on the master cylinder or did I miss that on the vid. You have also dispelled the myth that it is engine out to replace the master brake cylinder on a RHD.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

They were made down in Melbourne :wink: bloody noisy magpies!

Yeah I'm happy to have busted that myth! It's always frustrating when you're trying to find answers and the only replies you find are "oh I heard this" or " my friend said that" or even worse, an incomplete thread!

I've only tightened the screw as much as I could by hand. It's held up so far. I think if it were to dislodge I'd just cable tie the reservoir in place.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is a pretty hacky upgrade but ever since i'd seen the interior map light panel with the 3 buttons (HomeLink) option i've had the idea of retrofitting it with either a garage door opener or exhaust valves controls.

The idea in this video can be adopted with any kind of fob that works on 12v and is flat enough to stick to the PCB of the overhead light unit. There's plenty of space on top of it for multiple fob boards. Some ideas:
- exhaust flapper controls (as in this video)
- garage fob (saving you from having to retrofit the WHOLE HomeLink system)
- apartment building fob
- security gate fob
- your other half's car door (there might be some safety implications here)
- turning on/off home lights
... the list could be endless especially if you're smart with Arduino.

Audi TT Mk2 8J LED cabin light upgrade & HomeLink garage door opener hack for exhaust valves or garage fob


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice one! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Did you change the map light lenses? On mine, they're more opaque. Yours look clear.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thats how they are in the LED map light / ambient LED units.

I find they a nice "spotlight" effect rather than a diffuse light the opaque lenses give.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Some part numbers for reference.

• LED Homelink Overhead map reading light panel (can be a variant of these par tnumbers) - 8J0947111A, 8J0947111BE, 8J0 947 111 BK, 8J0 947 140 E / H or L , 8J0 947 133 A.
I've given all of these numbers so you can broaden your online searches. Listings can include any of these numbers as they reference different things (the PCB or the fascia)

• Homelink controls (often found as one unit WITH the LED overhead panel - 8J0959719, 8J0959719A
The panel can come in a few shades. I mainly found black ones for sale. Price vary wildly.

• Parts # 1, 2 and 5 - https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+tt+tts+coupe+roadster/att/2009-609/9/947-947000/#2
This is the best reference point for part numbers and variants.


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

Just watched your vid, looks very tidy 

I remembered that I found a schematic of my remote control online somewhere when I did this project:









As it looks very similar to yours the schema might apply to yours as well. When a switch is not pressed the corresponding input port sits at GND, pressing it rises the voltage and powers on the microcontroller at the same time (that's also the reason the button needs to be kept pressed during programming).
My guess would be that the OEM microcontroller has an internal pull up resistor on the input ports and the buttons pull the ports down to GND. So that would work exactly the opposite way.

Peter


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hi Peter. Thanks for watching! The whole aim of the car is to look OEM +. Nothing too out of the ordinary aesthetic wise.

That schematic looks a little daunting. I really don't understand it but I think I get what you mean about the OEM HoneLink PCB having that phenomenon when all the switches are in line. I knew it was too good to be true to be able to have it all in there ready for modification.

The other option was to start removing components but then I thought maybe hole off from doing that as I might want to actually implement the HomeLink system one day.

Your mod looks great! I can't wait to implement red LED's into my board to have the button numerals illuminate.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Another very clever and well documented addition as always Ian 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

8)

Thank you sir! Now just to get that catback fitted!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

For us who hit the race track, have heavily modified engine bays or who are overly paranoid - a fire extinguisher is an integral piece of kit to have in close reach.

It's not convenient to have it in the boot but Kap Industries has an option which bolts right in with very little effort. It's a bracket which has slots in it to secure any aftermarket hydrant and it's held in place under the seat. You can install it on either driver or passenger side seat with plenty of clearance as is detailed in the video. We chose to mount under the driver's seat as the driver's legs will always be out of the way and forward of the area where the hydrant sits. The price is not bad at all and it's a neat, practical solution that doesn't get in the way.

Kap Industries fire extinguisher bracket installation and review - Audi TT Mk2 8J


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That's a pretty snug fit with the forward edge of the seat. It would be interesting to know if there's any interference for the seats that have the storage bins.


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## Knight-tts (Jan 29, 2019)

I'm going to buy one now it's a great setup Thankyou for the video as well 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> That's a pretty snug fit with the forward edge of the seat. It would be interesting to know if there's any interference for the seats that have the storage bins.


Good point! I I might be able to test if someone local has seats with the bins. Are they a direct fit if mine don't have them or is it a seat out affair?



Knight-tts said:


> I'm going to buy one now it's a great setup Thankyou for the video as well 8)


 :mrgreen: You're welcome!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Seat out to actually fit them as I don't think the bolts would be accessible, but should be able to wedge it under enough

Do you plan on leaving it fitted the whole time (with or without the extinguisher)? I'm quite tempted


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah I've left them in ever since doin this video. Don't get in the way or anything.

My partner has driven and adjusted the seat a times already and no complaints there either. It's like it's not there really.

Might need to offset the addition weight by removing the back seats. Hahaha.

Also - i was showin a friend the new wheels and brakes yesterday and he spotted this ...









Oops! Soooooo I think that warrants keeping the hydrant in the car. Hahaha.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Latest video - some track footage with the current engine, brakes and suspension setup. All i have to say is one word - solid!

I can't be happier and i only wish that i was able to have more track time to keep shaving off time. It was only at the end of the day when i got in the flow - however i was still taking it waaaaay too easy in some sections of the track... in my mind I didn't want to crash!

I did come off the track once. Almost had a head on collision too - luckily the brakes stopped me with plenty of space to spare!

Winton track day - Audi TT Mk2 3.6 swap, Brembo 17z Brembo big brake kit, KW V3's & uprated swaybar


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

Car looked fast Ian and great the mods have improved performance. So whats next, suspension, or do you already have upgraded dampers/coil overs etc. Are there many other TT's at your track days or are they as rare as they are on the roads here.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looks like someone had fun on the track!

Me thinks you need a squirt of red paint on your tow hook for a splash of racing color! 









Out of curiosity I looked up the track on Google Maps. Were you running the entire track, including the u-shaped bit on the south end of the course? It looks like you could pick up a bit of speed on that long straight-away.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Great stuff Ian, I've always quite fancied taking a car on track but never have. Although done plenty of bike track days and a couple of seasons racing.


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

I love what you have done with this as I don't have the physical health to carry it out. My interest in having a 3.6 transplant instead of going forced induction is pretty high. Just don't know who could carry that out though. 
With you having driven them both how does she feel compared to a 3.2 other mods put aside?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Great stuff Ian, I've always quite fancied taking a car on track but never have. Although done plenty of bike track days and a couple of seasons racing.


I went to Snetterton last year, I was lucky it was between lockdowns. Hopefully later in the year I'll be able to go again, I'll let you know in case you want to join?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > Great stuff Ian, I've always quite fancied taking a car on track but never have. Although done plenty of bike track days and a couple of seasons racing.
> ...


Yeah sounds good, been there quite a few times on track days and racing on my bikes, so know the track well


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:


> Latest video - some track footage with the current engine, brakes and suspension setup. All i have to say is one word - solid!


Looking good, nice and sunny too 8)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> Car looked fast Ian and great the mods have improved performance. So whats next, suspension, or do you already have upgraded dampers/coil overs etc. Are there many other TT's at your track days or are they as rare as they are on the roads here.


Suspension is in a good place so now it's kinda small things. Headlight switches, i have a replacement alarm module to install because my chirp died (assuminfg that the battery is kaput), and re jigging the wiring on my stereo setup. I've only had one track day where another TT came along with us otherwise i've not seen another off the cuff.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Out of curiosity I looked up the track on Google Maps. Were you running the entire track, including the u-shaped bit on the south end of the course? It looks like you could pick up a bit of speed on that long straight-away.


Yeah it was great because we did the whole track! That U bend was a lot of fun then it was full pelt down to the S bend... i was mostly too scared to brake very late there but i toward the end of the day was pushing myself more and more to leave it till the bollards to brake. I also know i was way too slow around th big sweeping bend and then "the tits" i found always tricky!



SwissJetPilot said:


> Me thinks you need a squirt of red paint on your tow hook for a splash of racing color!


hehehehe could add some racing stripes to it 



barry_m2 said:


> Great stuff Ian, I've always quite fancied taking a car on track but never have. Although done plenty of bike track days and a couple of seasons racing.


I highly recommend! Might not be able to go as fast as being on your bike but it's awesome fun!



Nidana said:


> I love what you have done with this as I don't have the physical health to carry it out. My interest in having a 3.6 transplant instead of going forced induction is pretty high. Just don't know who could carry that out though.
> With you having driven them both how does she feel compared to a 3.2 other mods put aside?


Oh Nidana i hope you the best of health! 
If you start on the 3.6 swap you know who you can call :wink: Compared with a (manual) 3.2, there is a LOT more power all across the board. Not that the 3.2 is a slouch you can definitely feel the torque down low and that the 3.6 keeps accelerating even up high in the rev range. I did hit the limiter going down the straight but don't even think i revved past 3rd or 4th gear. The 3.6's gearbox is quite tall.



MT-V6 said:


> I went to Snetterton last year, I was lucky it was between lockdowns. Hopefully later in the year I'll be able to go again, I'll let you know in case you want to join?


Can i come too!?!?!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:


> Can i come too!?!?!


Get your car in a container and ship it over  orrr a very epic road trip


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Funny thing is I'd probably be able to ship the car over but due to Corona, wouldn't be able to get myself there! Hahaha
Strange times!


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

IPG3.6 said:


> For us who hit the race track, have heavily modified engine bays or who are overly paranoid - a fire extinguisher is an integral piece of kit to have in close reach.
> 
> It's not convenient to have it in the boot but Kap Industries has an option which bolts right in with very little effort. It's a bracket which has slots in it to secure any aftermarket hydrant and it's held in place under the seat. You can install it on either driver or passenger side seat with plenty of clearance as is detailed in the video. We chose to mount under the driver's seat as the driver's legs will always be out of the way and forward of the area where the hydrant sits. The price is not bad at all and it's a neat, practical solution that doesn't get in the way.
> 
> Kap Industries fire extinguisher bracket installation and review - Audi TT Mk2 8J


Just a heads up but if you have manual seats depending on seat positioning the manual lever fouls on the bracket and seat rocks as it's not properly catching. This is not really due to the bracket as the bracket is meant for a A3 shell and as Ian states in his video and they may make units for the TT going forward. Or with a bit of fettling issue can be easily sorted. Then again do a electric seat retrofit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

That's good to know @Nidana! I'LOL flick that feedback over to Russell.

Meanwhile I've spent Australia Day morning playing with the TT. I had to do something good to it since my neighbour decided to not use his eyes while reversing out of his car spot and back into mine 

This is what I wanted to tackle today. Replacing my alarm module and changing the A/C pressure switch. 









The alarm module was NOT fun! Getting to it was simple enough, although I broke pretty much all of the press fit fasteners that secure the wheel arch trim. It was the removal of the plug and alarm unit from the housing that got me. 









First up the plug can't be removed until you pull the housing out enough from under the wheel arch far enough. This stretched my loom too far and one of the wires broke. Had to park that up first, then the bloody nut that holds the alarm unit in the metal cage wasn't coming undone. I used a rattle gun with hopes that the shock would get it off... nope it just keeps spinning and did this to the housing ...









*sigh* the unit came away from the metal housing but not in the way it's supposed to as the stud is meant to stay in the plastic. In my case it stuck with the metal cage. I had to clamp the stud's base and ended up rattling the nut off. Finally! On re installation of the replacement unit I spread some anti seize copper on the threads.









Once I had my alarm chirps back I moved onto getting under the car to target the A/C compressor. There has been 5 days straight where the temperature has been high 30 degrees C with the car's temp readout reading 40+. I've noticed that when it's this hot outside that the air con can't keep up. A few googles says to try replacing this unit on the comp.









It's some kind of switch and luckily it is right there on the VR6 (after you remove the undertray). Didn't realise that by removing the circlip that the gas would make the switch explode out with a huge gush of a/c gas. Oops!!! Won't be doing that again.









Left: Old 
Right: Replacement
They are different lengths but the longer unit fits just fine. I'll need a gas top up since some of it escaped on removal of the precious switch. Once the circlip was placed back into its groove I thought about the steering crackling issue I have been having shortly after the swap.

Some other people report this especially when they are maneuvering the car from cold and during slow turns. I would get this creaking, popping, crackling sound when doing right turns and thought it was the strut tops. Upon closer listening it sounded more like it was coming from underneath. So I check the subframe bolts. Give them a good tighten. I also checked the steering rack as I had swapped it out for the later model one to enable steering rack map switching.

Lo and behold these 3 bolts were SO loose! Another oops!! I mustn't have tightened them properly since the swap.

Popped the undertray cover back on, replaced the drivers side wheel and drive off for a test drive. No more creaking, cracking or popping from the front end!!! Happy days as it feels like as it should again - refined.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Oops! Did you thread lock them? I know they are stretch bolts but just to ensure they are less likely to come loose again


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I think everyone that's attempted the alarm replacement has destroyed it trying to get it done. Another genius Audi design. Don't get me started on the fact it could be renewed with a pair of 5-Euro Ni-MH batteries. But no, Audi insist on selling owners a new 125-Euro alarm.

"...all about the environment" my Aunt Fanny! :lol:


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Yep. Metal square washer sticks to bolt and mashes the plastic. I partially removed the wing to get mine out. That was a lot easier.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Oops! Did you thread lock them? I know they are stretch bolts but just to ensure they are less likely to come loose again


I did not but now if it comes back i will do it. Actually i'll replace the bolts + threadlock. Thanks goodness it's not anything more sinister. I do however, still have upgraded top mounts to fit because i originally thought they were the issue. That i'll be an upcoming DIY vid. lol



SwissJetPilot said:


> I think everyone that's attempted the alarm replacement has destroyed it trying to get it done. Another genius Audi design. Don't get me started on the fact it could be renewed with a pair of 5-Euro Ni-MH batteries. But no, Audi insist on selling owners a new 125-Euro alarm.
> 
> "...all about the environment" my Aunt Fanny! :lol:


hahaha it's funny cuz it's true! I'm going to see if this one is salvagable... maybe a little (lot) of JB weld will hold the stud in place and hope that when i open it the dreaded eaten up PCB isn't the case.



Flashy said:


> Yep. Metal square washer sticks to bolt and mashes the plastic. I partially removed the wing to get mine out. That was a lot easier.


  I almost thought to do that but couldn't be bothered - luckily my DIY loom is juuuust about long enough to be able to pry the metal box open just outside of the wheel arch.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I've been having wind noise / wind whistling issues form my passenger side door, especially at higher speeds, when the a/c or heater is on and especially prevalent when it's windy outside.

There are a few fixes that i keep reading or seeing online but they didn't really do anything for my issue where there was a big enough air gap to cause this issue even though it seemed like the window would raise high up enough into the sealing recess.

I think this is the best possible solution as you physically shift the window back up to it's highest possible placement back into the sealing slot.

Audi TT Mk2 8J wind whistle sound, wind noise problems and the best DIY guide for this common issue]





If you've tried all other "fixes" try this one... it should get you sorted.


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## Iceblue (Jul 20, 2018)

The 3.6 sounds great under acceleration and looking forward to the top mount change


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

IPG3.6 said:


> I've been having wind noise / wind whistling issues form my passenger side door, especially at higher speeds, when the a/c or heater is on and especially prevalent when it's windy outside.
> 
> There are a few fixes that i keep reading or seeing online but they didn't really do anything for my issue where there was a big enough air gap to cause this issue even though it seemed like the window would raise high up enough into the sealing recess.
> 
> ...


What a fantastic video! I'm sure this will help a lot of people out with this issue.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Iceblue said:


> The 3.6 sounds great under acceleration and looking forward to the top mount change


Yes i love the induction noise! It was epic around the track!!!

Oh... yeah that top mounts job might now get delayed due to moving places plus there is no more creaking so... it wasn't the top mounts in the first place :lol: I'll be sure to record the process when the time comes.



CurryMan said:


> What a fantastic video! I'm sure this will help a lot of people out with this issue.


Thank you and appreciate the support. I'll just keep doing what i do


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

We got a daily. Yay!

Obtained due to wanting something. Lot more practical and also to stop people playing bumper cars with the TT. I've discovered my neighbour is not so great at parking. [smiley=bigcry.gif]









Nice to have a bit of colour and not to mention space! Hahaha

As it's a high mileage hero it does need love. The last owner has kept a very good history of receipts and all the work and looking through the documents we found the timing belt was last done about 120,xxx km ago. So it's definitely due. I got stuck right into it.

















Before working underneath some cleaning needed to be done. It's incredible what a good spray with degreaser, a brush and pressure wash does! 






























Time to forge ahead.


































As for the FrankensTTein, it's being put away until it goes in for repairs.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Skoda?


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## Flashy (Nov 8, 2019)

Vrs octavia


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hehe. Yes and yes!

Although not a VRs.

It's an Octavia Elegance, 4x4 and *drum roll* manual!

Has already been quite the heavy duty moving of many things! I'm thinking "track car support vehicle" one day. Hahahaha









This was the first time towing a car. It was super scary as I've never towed something so big and also precious. Had a mishap where a strap was trailing but after that was resolved it was all surprisingly straightforward. No reversing allowed though. That's super hard.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

After a few weeks without FrankensTTein I finally picked him up from the panel beaters.

Looking Schmick as ever and boy did they do a nice job detailing the car. Black looks excellent when cleaned up! Let along with a freshly repaired rear bumper.










Happy days! Now... where's that box o' mods!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good to see you have it back, looking very shiny


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

... then it pissed down rain as i was being handed the keys :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

She's a beauty! Still...I think those calipers need a splash of paint.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> ... then it pissed down rain as i was being handed the keys :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


Shame, but at least it's not snow! lol

Looks awesome in the pics though 

Out of curiosity are those 17Z or 18Z Brembos on the front? Or a different caliper? I have 18Zs on my A3 w/2pc rotors (larger-than-stock on rear too). But, it really needs the larger master as I have the dinky 22.8 bore MC on my car--gotta get an MC from a TT 3.2 or TT-S which have the 25.4 MC. I mean brakes are still strong as heck but the initial bite/pedal feel is just not there. Got used to it after a while of course but something I've been meaning to do. Also wheel/tyre fitment has been fun :lol: 12.5mm spacer works with the factory wheels though.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hehehe









I really like the raw look + the Audi Sport logo.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Out of curiosity are those 17Z or 18Z Brembos on the front? Or a different caliper?


They are 17z's and i made sure to upgrade the brake master cylinder for the 25mm one for the best possible setup. The brake feel is solid and can confirm that it doesn't take much to give a strong braking feel.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Also wheel/tyre fitment has been fun :lol: 12.5mm spacer works with the factory wheels though


 yes spacing or sourcing more aggressive ET wheels is definitely needed for 17z/18z big brake upgrade! I was a bit upset that i wasn't able to keep the 2 piece BBS style Speedlines and i didn't want to run spacers. I am constantly on the lookout for the 2 piece Speedlines at around ET40 which should be an A4 / A5 fitment.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> TT'sRevenge said:
> 
> 
> > Out of curiosity are those 17Z or 18Z Brembos on the front? Or a different caliper?
> ...


Wait what did your car star out as? I always envisioned it was a 3.2L you upgraded with the larger engine? I thought all 3.2Ls came with the 25.4 MC?

Thing about the A3 and the 22.8 MC is that the brake pedal, even from the factory was not really all that firm. I mean the brakes were fine for the car stock, not really any complaints there...but I mean it was always a bit more spongy than it needed to be. With the 18Zs on there, there's so much more overall piston area the pedal has a decent amount of travel before it really bites. When it does bite it really does bite but I think if someone else were to get in my car they might think the brakes have failed the first time they hit the pedal :lol:

The TT-S has different calipers (stock brakes on that car) but it has the 25.4 MC so the pedal feel is entirely different--it's fun going from a few days of driving that to the A3 again. It wasn't until after I got the TT-S that I was like, "uh okay I really need to upgrade that MC in the other car" lol.

Nice video BTW--your car is the other side drive so at first I was like "this MC looks totally different", haha.


IPG3.6 said:


> TT'sRevenge said:
> 
> 
> > Also wheel/tyre fitment has been fun :lol: 12.5mm spacer works with the factory wheels though
> ...


I think the TT may have an easier time though, but I'm not sure... My A3 OE wheels (1st gen rotor style) are ET52 or 54, can't remember now. But with the spacer that puts them out to ET40 essentially.

The reason I ended up with 18Z instead of 17Z is that "people on the forums" told me the 17Z actually stick out farther and make wheel fitments more difficult, though I never tried to compare them both to know for sure. That's just what ppl said on Fourtitude/Vortex so I went with it!

Interesting thing was I originally planned to use the TT wheels on the A3 (and put different ones on the TT) and while they fit and worked fine with a spacer on the front, they did not work on the _rear_. That's because even though the stock TT-S wheels are a similar offset they are 18x*8.5* to the A3's stock 18x7.5 size. The TT wheels on the A3 at the rear actually hit the parking brake cables, even with a 15mm spacer on. This is also because my rear brakes use the stock calipers but push them out with a bracket to accomodate a larger rotor size. That in turn pulls the parking brake cable to the outside so yeah that was a fun time figuring out what was going on there.

Back to the 18Zs, mine are painted silver from the reman. brand I bought them from, looks pretty much the same as yours. I've been meaning to paint and decal them because they really look "wrong" on the blue car with black wheels, lol, but never got around to it...and I've had them on for like 2 years now heh. This spring for sure!

I'm a little at odds with whether I want to put on a similar Audi Sport decal like you have there or the brembo lettering/logo...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Wait what did your car star out as? I always envisioned it was a 3.2L you upgraded with the larger engine? I thought all 3.2Ls came with the 25.4 MC?


Started out as a 2.0 FWD, now has parts from a 3.2 TT + R36 engine and box. :wink: 
Check out the frist few pages in my build thread to see the car in OG form.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Thing about the A3 and the 22.8 MC is that the brake pedal, even from the factory was not really all that firm.


That's odd that the A3 3.2 doesn't come with the same brakes as the TT 3.2 or is your A3 a 4cyl?



TT'sRevenge said:


> Nice video BTW--your car is the other side drive so at first I was like "this MC looks totally different", haha.


Yeah these are in a completeley ball breaker spot to change out AND all instructions seem to be for LHD where the brake master and booster are readily accessible. It's definitely struggle town on RHD cars to change the MC but i'm glad i did it.



TT'sRevenge said:


> I'm a little at odds with whether I want to put on a similar Audi Sport decal like you have there or the brembo lettering/logo...


Most every other car with Brembo's (or even OEM non brembo calipers) have Brembo stickers so i decided to go with these. They're great quality too and have survived a full track day!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Started out as a 2.0 *FWD*, now has parts from a 3.2 TT + R36 engine and box. :wink:
> Check out the frist few pages in my build thread to see the car in OG form.


Oh wow you really transformed that car eh?  But on the first page I see a silver car with a 3.2L motor in it--was that a different car?



IPG3.6 said:


> That's odd that the A3 3.2 doesn't come with the same brakes as the TT 3.2 or is your A3 a 4cyl?


It's a 2.0T quattro, yeah--no 3.2L for me! Way back before I got my first A3 (with was a 2.0T FWD) I had wanted the 3.2L but the price was in the sky for that thing, way too much $$$! By the time I got the quattro car the 3.2L was discontinued and the 8P A3 in general is fairly rare here so finding one on the used market was iffy too.

But yeah, from what I know, the A3 3.2L still has "GTI" front brakes over here. In Europe I think it gets slightly larger (286mm) _rear_ brakes but we didn't even get those here. I don't think I've seen an A3 3.2 with the larger front brakes, stock. My car came stock 312mm vented (Mk5 GTI standard) up front and 272mm solid in the rear--now it has 352mm 
vented F and 320mm solid R.

My TT-S has the stock brakes...which I'm happy with or I will certainly tell myself to avoid spending the thousands the other car cost in brake parts lol! But no really I'm actually pretty good with them, I'm not tracking the car or anything.



IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah these are in a completeley ball breaker spot to change out AND all instructions seem to be for LHD where the brake master and booster are readily accessible. It's definitely struggle town on RHD cars to change the MC but i'm glad i did it.


Looks like a lot less room on that side for sure!



IPG3.6 said:


> Most every other car with Brembo's (or even OEM *non brembo* calipers) have Brembo stickers so i decided to go with these. They're great quality too and have survived a full track day!


LOL there are ppl around your area that put Brembo decals on just any ol' factory calipers? :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh wow you really transformed that car eh? But on the first page I see a silver car with a 3.2L motor in it--was that a different car?


Yeah the silver 3.2 was the car that i had originally purchased to bring back to life before i learned what aluminium body repairs would cost. When i found that out it turned into the parts car for the AWD build. :lol: 
So i've basically taken all the good bits from the 3.2 S-Line (which i believe was top spec before the TT-S and then TTRS came out) and put into the black one.

re: A3 8P's- You can really see where the costs were cut to get the A3's at their price point! Least now we know.



TT'sRevenge said:


> LOL there are ppl around your area that put Brembo decals on just any ol' factory calipers?


Yes. Unfortunately it's quite common. Gross hey!!!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Apologies for the little updates. Weather turned bad for a long time and it literally rained non stop for almost 2 weeks along with a new space means the focus has been taken away from TT mods and fixes.

However my TTRS vented arch liners have arrived! One was in the parts warehouse here in Sydney. The other was in Germany ... which I had to wait 3 months for. lol

They must have made it from scratch or something hahaha

Can't wait to get these on and of course I'll to an install and comparison video.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Looking forward to it! I just mentioned the auxiliary coolers on another post, so your installation guide will be very helpful to anyone looking to do this mod!

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9#p9485139

According to the parts list (http://www.oemepc.com/audi) these were identified as options for the 3.2 VR-6. But I don't think I've seen them installed as part of the factory kit on a 3.2 so I suspect they were a factory option for high temperature climates.

It's covered under the workshop manual - *Engine CEPA - 2.5 ltr, 4-Valve Turbo - D3E8020278E*

Are you going to install the dual radiators, or just the wheel arch liners?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Maybe they were on a ship in the Suez canal for a while :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Looking forward to it! I just mentioned the auxiliary coolers on another post, so your installation guide will be very helpful to anyone looking to do this mod!
> 
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... p9485139...
> 
> Are you going to install the dual radiators, or just the wheel arch liners?


I probably will skip all the additional coolant mods and only install the liners/ brake venting arched due to 1 - more points of failure, 2 - hard to find parts, 3 - it'll probably increase weight, 4 - a manual box doesn't need the extra cooling.



MT-V6 said:


> Maybe they were on a ship in the Suez canal for a while


Hahaha yes any money they got stuck there!!


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## Bluepower (Feb 9, 2013)

Nice addition to the TT!!

As they apparently aren't that available, all we need is the CAD drawing and a 3D printer, to make our own??


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Bluepower said:


> Nice addition to the TT!!
> 
> As they apparently aren't that available, all we need is the CAD drawing and a 3D printer, to make our own??


Well yes, I had to wait MONTHS for one side to come from Germany. The other was stored in the warehouse here.

Not sure who would CAD it though or if you can even get the CAF file for it ... maybe?

I don't know if it's me but they do also feel tougher than the ones I had. Install video coming soon.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Here's the final part of the BBK upgrade for the Audi TT Mk2.

I thought i was done after the brake ducts installation BUT i found these vented wheel arch liners which should bring more cooling to the brakes.

I give a thorough overview of the upgrade part, do some temperature testing of the non-vented part, compare the non-vented and vented parts side by side and then detail the installation before going for another quick drive and more temperature tests.

Was there anything interesting to find out? Of course there was. Many interesting aspects regarding fitment, function and outcomes.

The part numbers are below:
*8J0821192D* & *8J0821191G* you might have to head to the dealer for them.

Pt. 5 Epic Big Brake Upgrade Audi TT Mk2 8J - TTRS vented wheel arches for improved brake performance


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Interesting video. Strange that the stud was in a slightly different place. Considering your old trim was damaged there, maybe it's just not a well fitting part (which put extra strain on the original fitting)?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

It fits well in all other spots apart from the stud hole :lol:

Maybe that side got damamged when i didn't run my undertray? That's probably the reason...


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## nigh7swimming (Sep 22, 2020)

Good stuff 8) I just ordered the vented arch lines from the dealership, £26 each. The ebay prices are a rip off!
I'm working on a proper air duct channel from the front down to the back of disc plates but I hope those liners will direct more fresh air at the back of the calipers to improve the cooling.
The tricky part for me is to make the ducts optional I mean need to cover the inlets when driving in the rain, otherwise the disc vents will get watered with dirt.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

If you really want to improve the cooling, you could use one of these brake duct round-to-rectangular adapters on the back of your new arch liner and either use a non-OEM plate (or modify your dust cover) to accept a flex-tube. A simple aluminum deflector would help guide a bit more air into the NACA duct. This system will more precisely direct the air into the rotor and out the cooling slots.

It should be possible to set this up in a way it's easily installed for just track days so you don't risk damaging anything keeping it all in place during normal driving.

































Sources:
https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vor ... lates-pair
https://www.autosport.com.au/brake-duct ... tre-outlet

Another option that might be worth consideration, is using a Corvette Z06 ducts with your OEM wheel arch liners and pulling air through the fog light vents. This minimizes the amount of duct tube needed inside the wheel arch -

*Three parts to help you install brake ducts*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow_-p6i ... ronsTuning


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

I think these hoses that go directly to brake disc don't really work on the TT? We have the brake caliper on the front side of the brake disc so you would either have to squeeze the outlet between the drive axle and the caliper somehow or route it around the suspension parts to target the disc directly.
Would be interesting if there are any solutions for this?


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

There are a number of rotor cooling options out there for front caliper set ups on the TT -

*Velox Motorsports Brake Cooling Kit R&D*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u090pxK ... ngineering


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

that's awesome!

now i've invested time and money into the OEM options it's time to test them out a bit.

but until the next track day... i've decided to crack on with more mods.

This Blackout 3rd centre LED brake light is super subtle and, i feel, really suits a black car.









YouTube of this coming soon where you can see me completely bugger up the removal of the OEM red one! [smiley=bigcry.gif] With the help of MT-V6 i will also show the "smoked" option if a full blackout is not your thing.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I'm on the lookout for the RS arch liners too as I'm going to be fitting the aux radiator in one (maybe both) of the side sections. One for the charge cooler water, and the other if needed, for extra engine cooling.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> One for the charge cooler water


I like the sound of this - smart to use something that's OEM without having to mount it in a random spot or increasing the radiator, a/c, FMIC stack width. Added bonus is the proper ventilation is there when using the vented liners.

Also ...








i did a thing LOL


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Yep, indeed. However, I think I might need the RS front bumper too as I'd ideally like to fit the air scoops that direct the air from the bumper through the rad, I'm not sure if the scoops will work with the TTS bumper I have.

Nice pic.. What was your time?? Last time I was on a quarter mile strip was in my old Supra, about 15 years ago!! :lol:


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I suspect that if you just take out the fog grille backing piece, you've have free airflow through the front and then out the back via the arch lining, which you might be able to fabricate a scoop for?

Though the fog light would still be there, as the RSs don't have front fog lights


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> Yep, indeed. However, I think I might need the RS front bumper too as I'd ideally like to fit the air scoops that direct the air from the bumper through the rad...


most likely your bumper will work as the scoop fits on the secondary radiator and not on the bumper so you should just be able to remove the blocking plate of the fog light trim panel to let air through. Then you'd just trim the scoop as required (if at all required)



barry_m2 said:


> Nice pic.. What was your time?? Last time I was on a quarter mile strip was in my old Supra, about 15 years ago!! :lol:


Supra! You'd be surprised how sought after they are down here. 
Timeslips below. I've also detailed what other cars I was next to and drive mode. Not having it in S really affected the time haha oops.









Was pretty happy with the two good runs and I might go back on - maybe with much less fuel and a partial strip out of the car (although reaction time on the third not the best but the lights confused me - video on that coming soon). Oh and VCDS. A bloody engine light came on just before heading out onto the ready area. Typical.



MT-V6 said:


> I suspect that if you just take out the fog grille backing piece, you've have free airflow through the front and then out the back via the arch lining, which you might be able to fabricate a scoop for?


Yep exactly that's what I've done. Got rid of that grille blanking plate as soon as I could!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Haven't tackled an aesthetic modification in a while so here's one that's not the BIGGEST LOUDEST IN YOUR FACE mod but I think it complements the black very nicely. In this video I remove the OEM red LED strip (a common fault) and replace it with a blacked out aftermarket part. It's subtle and totally the look i'm going for - under the radar.

Audi TT Mk2 Centre Brake Light LED removal & installation guide w/blackout LED (watch me break it!)


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Great video and that blacked-out third brake light really looks fantastic! That a "must have" for anyone with a black TT. Really, really nice! 

Some "lessons learned" on pulling panels I encountered when I installed the reverse camera on my Roadster -

1) The two panel screws at the handle grab are Torx. Not sure if this is a Coupe vs. Roadster thing...?? The double ended Torx driver in the tool kit also fits with the screwdriver handle. Amazingly, that double ended Torx works on a number of other Torx screws that need to be removed for service such as the headlights and for Roadster owners, the convertible top latch motor.

2.) When pulling the panels, pull where the clip is located rather than from between the clips. This will avoid possibly splitting or cracking the panel. As noted in your video, the plastic can flex and may crack or split. I learned this lesson the hard way with my rear seat panel. Fortunately it's a very tiny crack at the bottom and not noticeable. But still... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

3.) The easiest way to figure out where the clips are located is to look up the part on eBay. This way you'll know exactly where pry bar needs to go and makes the job a lot easier. I found that once I had pried the first clip free with the pry bar, I could then get my hand behind the panel (palm facing towards me) and then slide it to the next clip location and pull it free. By using your hand, rather than the pry bar, there's less stress on the plastic since you'll pulling a larger surface rather than at a single point.

4.) You'll find getting those stray spring clips out of the metal work is much easier with a pair of small vise grips. :wink:

For anyone with a Roadster that wants to do your blacked-out third brake light installation, here's a DIY for removing the trunk panel -

*How To - Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Trunk Lid Panel Removal*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1599538


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

Do like it when your videos drop. If I had a black model I would do this in a heart beat sadly I don't. For me and my silver friend will stay oem as I feel the clear would look like a 90's revival of the clear Lexus lense style and the smoked wouldn't look right with the rear lights in stock form. I've always really liked the look of the stick rear lights. I should have bought a black one but had black before and just wanted something that hid dirt a little longer between washes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Another light that I think would look great on a black TT is this 3-in-one rear fog light.

Let us know if you go for one of these!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

@Swiss thanks for the pliers tip! Must try that next time although i tend to stay away from risk of metal surface to metal tool contact just from past experience. Way to many scratches on panels from doing this.



SwissJetPilot said:


> Another light that I think would look great on a black TT is this 3-in-one rear fog light.


I've seen this - i'm not too sure about it. The foglight doesn't stand out as much as the centre brake light so this ones a little lower on my list of exterior mods. The extra reverse light output would be neat though especially for those with reversing cams!



Nidana said:


> Do like it when your videos drop. If I had a black model I would do this in a heart beat sadly I don't. For me and my silver friend will stay oem as I feel the clear would look like a 90's revival of the clear Lexus lense style


Thanks Nidana. LOL i remember those Altezza lights - they're coming up everywhere now in LED form.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Got these to install to give the engine bay some pop. Install video for these soon. 









Also... I feel a big project coming up. The gearbox tends to drop out of gear while in drive. It was inevitable but I guess it's just going to force the 3rd pedal to come into the picture.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I didn't realise you could get blue ones, very nice


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah the blue are the nicest IMO. 
I have also seen yellow and green! Haha.

Here's the install video where I also cover pulling out the coilpacks (done singlehandedly too. Haha) 
Part numbers and tool numbers contained in the description.

VR6 blue coloured coilpack covers and VR6 coilpack removal guide - for 3.2 and 3.6


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice splash of color! 

Back before Coil Packs, we used to replace the black spark plug wires with colored ones for a similar effect. Unfortunately, modern engines are pretty well hidden as the engine covers seem to keep getting bigger and bigger!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Nice splash of color!
> 
> Back before Coil Packs, we used to replace the black spark plug wires with colored ones for a similar effect. Unfortunately, modern engines are pretty well hidden as the engine covers seem to keep getting bigger and bigger!


I love attractive and neat engines without covers. All the current 4 cylinder engines are so ugly without their engine covers. I still like the 1.8t's cam cover design the best from Mk1 TT and making it look neat by deleting the vacuum stuff. I smell another project maybe? hehehehe

For those who have seen the coilpack change video and are wondering about the black coolant cap and black windscreen washer cap here are the PN's:

Black coolant cap - 3C0121321 (i originally spotted this type on the VW Arteon)
Black washer cap - 1K0955455-BLK


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

That coolant bottle cap looks really nice in black. Thanks for the part numbers, 

















There's also a black carbon cover for the coolant bottle too. That would be a nice compliment to a black carbon engine cover -


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This cover for the coolant bottle is kinda cute but i'm definitely not keen on it :? THe 200 quid is better spent on functional mods .... like this for example.

Since it seems like i've got a spare ColourMFA unit for a while longer (the buyer for this unit has gone MIA) i'm going to hardwire it into my cluster. The main aim of the game is to ensure the retro fit is reversible. The main "catch" - if you can even call it that - with the Mk1 gen is that there are 3 traces on the PCB that need cutting in order for the mod to function properly. Making the cluster colourMFA only from that point on. I believe i would be able to make it so there's no permanent change made to the Mk2 clusters.

Wish me luck with the ColourMFA retrofit in the 8J platform...









...and of course - there is the planning. Which i go over in my mind about 100 times before i actually do anything. I'm sure there's a name or condition for that habit hahaha


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Haha, good luck. The traces that need cutting - could they always be rejoined in future if required with jumpers or similar? So still reversible, but just with a little extra work


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks :wink:

I guess they could be reconnected using the closest via's. I also chuck all the old LED backlights along with the mounting frame for the red style screen so that's another reason why it's irreversible. Haha.


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## RockinRS (Aug 17, 2020)

IPG3.6 said:


> For those who have seen the coilpack change video and are wondering about the black coolant cap and black windscreen washer cap here are the PN's:
> 
> Black coolant cap - 3C0121321 (i originally spotted this type on the VW Arteon)
> Black washer cap - 1K0955455-BLK


Ah, thanks for this. At one time I thought I was going to have order the Lambo versions to get them in black!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

FYI I have washer fluid cap 400 955 277 which is also a black version of the TT one, and actually has the Lambo badge on the inside of it. Also only £4 from Audi, so that's another option for you


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yes I can confirm mine does have the lambo logo on it too haha


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Ian,

Can the ClourMFA read Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and Oil level on TT ECU? When I look at the value on the ECU ,instread of displaying actual number it says Oil Pressure OK, Oil Level OK and Oil Temp -60 degrees C.

BTW! Do you still have the stock 3rd brake light? Can you please verify if the 2 digit after "/" match the year the car was manufactured?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

OOOOFT sorry since i absolutely ruined mine i threw it sound soon after the mod! :lol:

Out of those values ColourMFA does:
Oil Pressure - no (we only have a low oil warning sensor installed. an accurate oil pressure temp would require an aftermarket sensor)
Oil Temp - yes
Oil level - yes (as a temp. or a live bar graph)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is something i've been wanting to do for a while - bringing the setup to the dragstrip! I've never ever been in my life and it was a fun learning experience.

Audi TT Mk2 8J 3.6 VR6 AWD at the dragstrip - FrankensTTein R36 engine swapped






There are two evenings in that video and all my times are there. I am pretty happy with the very consistent results and while not the fastest the TT3.6 is not slouch either!

My biggest learnings were
- let go of the brake pedal sooner
- raise the wing! (the fastest time was with the wing up)
- cool the engine in between runs
- ALWAYS do a drag in S mode :lol: 
- i prefer circuit racing where you're actually driving for more MUCH MORE than a minute in the same amount of hours you're at the event.

Enjoy.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Do you still have the stock 3rd brake light? Can you please verify if the 2 digit after "/" match the year the car was manufactured?


I think you are right, I just checked my old one and it says 07 after the /, on my 2007 TT


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have had to bring out VCDS to fix up the airbag error on the dash since the drag night so i thought why not make a video showing how to do this along with some other tweaks and mods you can do to your instrument cluster using VCDS.

I detail how to
• reset an airbag light - VCDS is highly practical for airbag errors as other tools just can't clear these.
• add in boost gauge, oil temperature and lap timer via Special Funcstions menu.
• activate needle sweep, remove date display, and show you the various options how your intrument cluster can light up it's needles and scales.
• AFS light bending headlights showroom effect and tourist mode as well as running through basic settings.

Audi TT Mk2 8J VCDS - airbag reset, add boost gauge, oil temp & lap timer, needle sweep mod and instrument cluster LED's mod, AFS headlight reset, showroom demo, tourist mode and output tests





If there are any other VCDS questions you have please let me know and i'll do my best to detail those processes too.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice one Ian! 

As a caveat for early model Mk2 TT owners, not all years will have these options available. Early TT Mk2 models have very few optional code changes simply because VAG didn't included them in the factory build. Also, depending on the factory equipment that came with your vehicle, some code changes may or may not be possible. For example - if you have the RNS-E SatNav head unit it is possible to retrofit a reverse or back-up camera by changing the code settings so you can display the reverse image on the screen. However vehicles that were factory fitted with the Concert or Symphony head units will probably not have this option.

Once you run your first Auto Scan, only those addresses and features which are present in your vehicle will be displayed. From there you can determine which Adaptations or Basic settings and re-code options are possible.

One other suggestion is to always run the Auto Scan and print out your OEM code settings BEFORE making any changes. Once you change them, there's no "undo" so you need to know how your car was coded BEFORE you make any changes so you can easily change it back if something goes wrong.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wanna see the guts of your instrument cluster? Here's a teardown. Both clusters are mainly similar with slight differences in screen and LED colours.

Audi TT Mk2 8J Instrument Cluster Teardown - ColourMFA Installation Pt 1


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Very cool! I seem to recall someone years ago repainted the silver speedo/tach rings, I'll dig around to see if I can find the pictures.

Those clips are identical to the *Roof Flap Servo* clips. When I needed to get mine apart, I found using an old hotel key card works quite well. Just cut the card into strips and then wedge them into the clips to keep each clip released so they don't snap back on you as you work your way around.

This also avoids over-bending them as can happen using a screwdriver. Don't ask me how I know this.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The credit card thing is so smart! hahaha the struggles i go through opening these things (especially A4 B5)

Thanks for the tip :-*


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Interesting info as always IPG and SJP


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The OEM screen and frame are now being put away as ColourMFA now takes residence in the cluster.










I'll store it in case I need to reverse the mod.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Sorry for the lack of updates but as the weather is colder and I have no undercover area to work in anymore it is difficults to push out the mods and videos but i gaurantee you this one is a banger!

I'm very happy now with the status that ColourMFA in the Audi TT Mk2 is at. Here's a quick overview of what work needs to be done at the instrument cluster to get this unit up and running. No details yet on the installation but that will come soon as i try and develop a (mostly) plug and play kit. You will see, however, this is pysically impossible to supply as an out of the box working plug and play kit due to the nature of replacing OEM hardware.

Enjoy.

ColourMFA in Audi TT Mk2 8J - Upgrade Overview Installation Part 2


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

The ColourMFA thing is super cool, but also looks crazy complicated to do. Did you design/develop/program this? Do you sell them? Or is this made by a company or something?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

It's made by a crew in Russia and I have been installing them in S3 8L's, TT 8N's, A4/S4/RS4 B5's, VW Bora and Golf Mk4 R32's for a few years now.

As you had seen last year I started experimenting and it looked promising but now it's actually working very well and as it should in the 8J. There are a few requests I have and will work with the developers to make it more 8J / PQ35 friendly.

I'm the local distributor in Aus and have sent some up your way, Norway, Greece, Japan and USA for people who are happy to do a DIY installation. All instructions are supplied and I'm only a text message away should someone have questions throughout their DIY installation. It's technical but if you take your time and have the right tools it's actually a great weekend project.

The plan is to continue offering a couple of options:
1/ DIY kit = all the parts you need to make it happen + instruction. Most cost effective. 
2/ Plug and play. I usually get people to send me their clusters for the modification. Plug and play in Mk2 will be "mostly" plug and play. The nature of the install requires some work with removing parts and is not as simple as the mk1 clusters where I can literally install the kit as a true plug and play solution.

Happy to answer any questions about it


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

IPG3.6 said:


> Happy to answer any questions about it


Do you fancy a trip over to the UK to fit mine, maybe have a go at getting the TTS clocks in there too!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > Happy to answer any questions about it
> ...


hehehe I wish! It would be great to meet some of you folk and have a go of your racetracks!

Alas, we are still on travel bans [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> The plan is to continue offering a couple of options:
> 1/ DIY kit = all the parts you need to make it happen + instruction. Most cost effective.
> 2/ Plug and play. I usually get people to send me their clusters for the modification. Plug and play in Mk2 will be "mostly" plug and play. The nature of the install requires some work with removing parts and is not as simple as the mk1 clusters where I can literally install the kit as a true plug and play solution.
> 
> Happy to answer any questions about it


Oh I see so you're basically testing them now and they'll be available soon? What's the cost like on these--I'm sure it's not cheap but it does look like something pretty advanced and looks totally integrated/stock which is nice.

BTW I agree on the blackout CHMSL since it's essentially the first "mod" I did on the car since it wasn't working when I bought the car and was required to pass safety cert/inspection :lol: The only bad part is there's not an OE one in black of course, so the aftermarket one, while cheaper and looking better from behind, doesn't actually have perfect fit. At least the one I bought didn't. But hey it was relatively cheap, looks better overall, and most importantly worked so I could get the car registered 

I also got the black washer fluid cap since the blue one on mine was all cracked/busted up. With the black the washer fluid thing totally disappears  I never checked to see if there's a Lambo logo on the underside--I should do that. I can't remember what p/n I got but it was the one for an R8 IIRC...so actually makes sense it has the Lambo stamp on it too.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh I see so you're basically testing them now and they'll be available soon? What's the cost like on these--I'm sure it's not cheap but it does look like something pretty advanced and looks totally integrated/stock which is nice.


Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.

There will be 3 options as per Mk1 offerings

1 - DIY kit straight out of the box $210USD + shipping. This kit will be incomplete and you will need to source extra wiring and connectors for it to work in the 8J. Instructions emailed to you.
2 - Complete 8J DIY kit + semi-wired $TBC. Complete kit with everything you need (minus tools) to install into the 8J. Most of the work done for you. Instructions emailed.
3 - Full installation and coding service $TBC. I will need to be with the car to complete the retrofit - end to end service



TT'sRevenge said:


> The only bad part is there's not an OE one in black of course, so the aftermarket one, while cheaper and looking better from behind, doesn't actually have perfect fit. At least the one I bought didn't. But hey it was relatively cheap, looks better overall, and most importantly worked so I could get the car registered


Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?



TT'sRevenge said:


> I also got the black washer fluid cap since the blue one on mine was all cracked/busted up. With the black the washer fluid thing totally disappears  I never checked to see if there's a Lambo logo on the underside--I should do that. I can't remember what p/n I got but it was the one for an R8 IIRC...so actually makes sense it has the Lambo stamp on it too.


hahaha most likely it is also stamped with the Lambo logo.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Yes TTsRevenge, I found on my test fit that the light unit was proud of the metal because the supplied foam gasket was too thick. I made a replacement thinner gasket and now it fits flush


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.
> 
> There will be 3 options as per Mk1 offerings
> 
> ...


Price doesn't sound too bad at all* though shipping seems like it might get expensive from Australia! Also Canada and our damn import taxes/duties :x FWIW I would probably go with option #2 provided the cost of wiring, etc. didn't add a huge amount as shipping a whole cluster over there and back would probably cost a fortune and risk damage in transit on top of that.

*Actually it's better priced than PolarFIS and FIS-Control, products that_ don't_ include a new, high-res display. Install just seems a lot more complicated and risky, OTOH. Seems like a good off-season project to get one and install when I'm not actively driving the car (I park this car for the winter which is like 8 months in this country these days :roll: ).



IPG3.6 said:


> Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?


Well you could look at this pic from my "new user" thread back when I posted it. Picture was taken just after I got the car which was Sept. last year so not that long ago...









It's not really that the fit is _poor_ per se, but just that it's not as good as factory/OE fit. It's tough to tell but you can kind of see it's not exactly totally uniform fitting along the bottom of the light. Also the plastic is much softer than OE--can be scratched easily by comparison, whereas the OE is a harder plastic, much like the tail-light plastic. That's not too huge a deal though as it's on the rear where it's not exactly getting hit by dirt/debris/etc. while travelling.

Getting an OEM one and putting some [exterior] tint film/wrap on it might be a better idea but at the time the aftermarket blackout one worked better for me for a few reasons:
1. It was relatively cheap.
2. I could get it quickly--just a few days to ship from a US retailer off eBay. Needed to do this when I bought the car to pass safety insp. so I could get plates and be able to drive it.
3. It looks pretty good still, and I still like the blacked look better than the factory one.

Getting an OE one would have been super expensive from the dealer and getting one from Latvia (for some reason you can get a lot of OE parts off there for good prices on eBay and they are indeed geniune), well that would have taken two months to arrive so that made the decision for me. Had I the time I would have probably gone the OE-and-tint route. Now I'm just crossing fingers that functionally this one lasts--as in the LEDs keep working. Time will tell I guess!



MT-V6 said:


> Yes TTsRevenge, I found on my test fit that the light unit was proud of the metal because the supplied foam gasket was too thick. I made a replacement thinner gasket and now it fits flush


Hmm well I didn't have a huge flush-fit problem--in the picture you can see it fits okay it's just not 100% even or at least as even as the factory piece. I don't really think about it that much and as said it's not exactly ill-fitting but still it's unmistakably a China-made aftermarket part lol.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes i've been toying with the idea for the past year and only now have bit the bullet and hardwired it into my car.
> ...


For option 2 where all the twisted pair (for CAN) and interface plugs will be provided will be roughly $300USD (would be 350USD-ish to send to North America).
+ instructions
+ tech. support during and post install
I will need to make a formal install tute for this platform. So keep an eye out for that.



TT'sRevenge said:


> IPG3.6 said:
> 
> 
> > Would you have a photo of the poor fitment? I'm happy with mine as i was tlaking with MT and his wasn't flush with the boot yes mine is. Maybe they improved fitment over the years?
> ...


Oh yes i can see that when looking closely... the untrained eye wouldn't pick that up though. I"ll keep monitoring the scratching thing though - i'm yet to wash the car since my install! :lol:


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> For option 2 where all the twisted pair (for CAN) and interface plugs will be provided will be roughly $300USD (would be 350USD-ish to send to North America).
> + instructions
> + tech. support during and post install
> I will need to make a formal install tute for this platform. So keep an eye out for that.


Will do!



TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh yes i can see that when looking closely... the untrained eye wouldn't pick that up though. I"ll keep monitoring the scratching thing though - i'm yet to wash the car since my install! :lol:


Yeah I think most people would have to have it pointed out so it's not _bad_ per se but it's just something you know about in the back of your mind when looking at it lol.

As for the scratching, meh I wouldn't be too worried if you're using proper wash technique. Mine hasn't really gotten scratched badly or anything, just that it's pretty clear it's much easier to scratch than the OE. As said since it's not on the front it's not something that will get destroyed over time or anything.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

We've had a rough time with Delta in NSW but luckily enough - this means more time to concentrate on "indoor" projects. Such as driving around with the TT 3.6, extensively using colourMFA and making this review.






There's a lot to take in so please click through - sit back with a drink, enjoy!

Peronally I LOVE it as when you've upgraded fromt he OEM screen you kinda can't go back to it. What're your thoughts?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

These OEM puddle lights came up on marketplace at a very good price so i get them shipped from the west side, Perth, Western Australia which is a good 3,935.2 km drive :lol:

















ABOVE: The units on the right are the "regular" downlights which don't project any logo. PN 4E0 947 415. I've got them there as i need to use the small 2 pin plugs to convert the plugs i have in there right now which are the older style, wide flat plug. It's nice and sharp, even with the camera's flash.









ABOVE: Here is the logo projected onto the floor. PN 4G0 052 133H

Install and comparison video coming soon.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I snuck out in between rainy days to get the puddle lights upgraded from regular LED bulb units to the projector "quattro" logo style ones. I highly recommend these genuine Audi units over the eBay, Wish, AliExpress etc. $20 lights as not only is the projected image much sharper but their build quality easily beats those cheap versions.

See what the different options are, how to code them in using VCDS, the wiring diagram and a comparison of the OEM LED puddle light VS LED projector "quattro" logo light. Part numbers and more info contained in the video and description. Enjoy!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So we're on a never ending lockdown and I've decided to do a bit of a mod stocktake&#8230; plenty of bits here to keep one busy when travel is restricted to 5km away from your home. Haha


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What's in the SKF boxes? And what's the plan with all the level sensors? Haha


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> We've had a rough time with Delta in NSW but luckily enough - this means more time to concentrate on "indoor" projects. Such as driving around with the TT 3.6, extensively using colourMFA and making this review.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow yeah that thing is certainly quite feature-rich!

However regarding the options menu from the factory that you end up _losing_ I'm sure most of these things are settable in VCDS though I know some things like window rollup, don't you have to set these in VCDS and then _also_ enable them in the cluster?

Also there's the TPMS reset--there's no way to do that in ColuorMFA either? I mean all it would take to do this is to be able to modify adaptation values...in some cases anyway. Seems like something that could be added on top of measuring blocks. But anyway I guess it's not too hard to get out VCDS to reset something like TPMS. Kind of a pain but with all the other stuff you get with ColourMFA, probably not a deal breaker.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> What's in the SKF boxes? And what's the plan with all the level sensors? Haha


They're HD strut top bushes. I had them for ages thinking they needed replacing because there was a clunking in the front - turned out to be something else. They should be relatively easy to fit since the car is lowered. I hope so anyway&#8230;



TT'sRevenge said:


> the options menu from the factory that you end up losing I'm sure most of these things are settable in VCDS


yeah they are able to be set in VCDS. I made sure to mention it because it might be a major caveat for some people but honestly. I've not had the need to touch that menu after the 5th or so time playing with it and setting my values.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Also there's the TPMS reset--there's no way to do that in ColuorMFA either?


I don't have TPMS (yet) so this is not something I can test. I have found this screenshot though so it appears compatible with some models?









The good thing is they're happy to take data (you can view the motor or comfort CAN bytes) and work with users to add features. For example in the oem screen you can see when you hard disable ESP. This is not in the ColourMFA yet but I'm waiting to hear back from the developers as I've sent them the relevant changes that occur when pressing ESP off, then on, then off and then hold for hard disable. All that's required is a firmware update.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *IPG3.6* - If you're looking for your next project, the start-button / drive-select might be an interesting project. It's come up a few times on the Mk2 forum in the past, and now our friend *Armran* in Italy is giving it a serious consideration. Might be a nice collaboration project given your expertise and technical savvy. 

*TTRS Steering Wheel Retrofit*
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/t ... it.380408/

*Start Button into Mk2*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=2007533


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey Swiss - have just caught up on the thread with what seems to be a little bit of frustration and then a fresh start with the Armran's energy.

I've seen similar done on other platforms and one part of it requires a custom module to enable "mapping" the commands from the new steering wheel to what you want them to do - essentally translating whatever the newer steering wheel gives in CAN or LIN messages to the older platform's modules.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Since having this head unit i've not looked at the time alignment (TA) or "time correction" as Alpine have it in their manual.

So i took the time to read up and take some measurements to optimise the audio.








The Alpine equation is *farthest speaker - all other speakers = value in cm or inches* i.e.

left front speaker - right front speaker = ?
left front speaker - right rear speaker = ?
left front speaker - left rear speaker = ?
You then use the table to calculare the ms value (in this case i just set the screen to cm and entered my calulation)

So with all my equipment ready I fired up the system and navigate to the TA settings.
















The nice thing with Alpine's unit is it lets you change the unit of measurement from milliseconds (ms), cm or inches.

Measuring away. Initially I measure all 3 drivers. Woofer, mid-range and tweeter.








Here are my measurements in mm.









The online calculator wants it in inches so had to quickly calculate it. I quickly realised that i wasn't going to be able to input each of these separate values into my system. A quick google reveals that in this case I measure from the mid-range drivers and make my calculations this way. I don't have any rear speakers so that helps keep things simple.









Here's what i ended up entering and setting to preset 1. I went with the closest number i could enter in my system.








ABOVE: in milliseconds









ABOVE: in centimeters









ABOVE: in inches

Then you chuck on music to test it out. I toggled between "flat" and "preset 1" to see if i could hear any difference.








I can definitely say the quality of the music changes however it's not that obvious until you do the switching. When it's flat the sound is right side biased and i can hear the majority of the volume/weight is toward the right. When i turn on my settings the sound lifts and it sounds "nicer" and spacious rather than mainly coming from the right. Super happy that i took 20 minutes to set up this up so if you have TA feature in your stereos definitley take a second to adjust it after you've done your main EQ tuning.

After that i went for a short drive to clean up the rusted rotors as the car is just sitting there since we're in our 11th week (i think) of lockdown and can't go anywhere significantly far. Bit of an overcast day today but spring has definitely sprung so i'm looking forward to the Australian heat coming back!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Nice photos, guess you just need to drive in lots of 5 km circles around your house haha. I did notice the TT logos in the lights but I could never get a good photo of them. A nice touch I think


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

For me Alpine updated the tune it app and now it no longer works and is unable to adjust for time correction now. Also now going to look at my lights as I have never noticed this before.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> I don't have TPMS (yet) so this is not something I can test. I have found this screenshot though so it appears compatible with some models?
> 
> 
> The good thing is they're happy to take data (you can view the motor or comfort CAN bytes) and work with users to add features. For example in the oem screen you can see when you hard disable ESP. This is not in the ColourMFA yet but I'm waiting to hear back from the developers as I've sent them the relevant changes that occur when pressing ESP off, then on, then off and then hold for hard disable. All that's required is a firmware update.


Hmm I'm still wondering about the "checkbox" options, I thought some you still needed the DIS for, but maybe I'm wrong... But seems like you can do TPMS from your SS you have there 

Overall I'm convinced--you just need to start selling this thing now haha


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Nice photos, guess you just need to drive in lots of 5 km circles around your house haha.


Any excuse for a quick spin!



Nidana said:


> For me Alpine updated the tune it app and now it no longer works and is unable to adjust for time correction now.


I think you're right. I deleted and re-downloaded and now it's saying "this is taking longer than usual" when i try to login. Ah well. no biggie. I'll just come back to this thread for my settings anytime they reset.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Overall I'm convinced--you just need to start selling this thing now haha


Am working on it but probably still a while away as manufacture/shipping has slowed since the pandemic. It will happen though!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Not captured in the photos before of some of my parts that i need to fix are the inner door seals. I took these from the 3.2 parts car remember that i must use them instead of what i had on the car as original parts. They were worn and the seal had clearly become damaged. It's not a hard job at all and if yours is looking a bit sad this will help you get your head around the job.

Here's the video guide on how to go about replacing the damaged inner door seals complete with part and tools numbers.






If you'd rather follow the official instructions i've also attached them below.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Am working on it but probably still a while away as manufacture/shipping has slowed since the pandemic. It will happen though!


Oh another question I have about this... I was just thinking about the other day--can it display the nav directions from the RNS-E like the factory display?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

yes it does sir. this is probably the worst demo video but... you can see the RNS-e info is reflected in the colourMFA. it's possible due to comms over the CANbus

Colourmfa Colormfa navigation display demo

actually this is a much better demo! :lol:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Woohoo thanks to MT-V6 (thank you good sir) I now have an HBA rear view mirror. Install video to come soon. Just gotta wait for a different plug to arrive as this unit has an 8pin plug VS the original 6pin one.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Don't forget the pins are different too (not very helpful!)


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

oh damn - so i can't just unpin the old one, re pin into the "female" of the 8 pin plug, and then add the extra pins/wiring?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Afraid not High Beam Assist questions


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> yes it does sir. this is probably the worst demo video but... you can see the RNS-e info is reflected in the colourMFA. it's possible due to comms over the CANbus
> 
> Colourmfa Colormfa navigation display demo
> 
> actually this is a much better demo! :lol:


Excellent! I was fearing it wouldn't actually but that not only does it but looks snazzy too with the higher res  Strikes me as odd they can do this but can't get some of the standard menu stuff in there as you mentioned.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

I think we were discussing the aftermarket CHMSL (3rd brake light) in this thread before, right?

Just to update on mine after the season...

The fit got even worse over time--almost as if it expanded a bit and it actually now has a more noticeable gap around/below where it sits.

It has seemingly oxidised quite a bit--that's right it's cloudy lookin'...after basically one summer! Car is normally garaged but sits outside at work, but is certainly not outside 24/7. And this is a part on the rear of the car, which is crazy to have this happen so soon. Also if it looks like this after one year, imagine what it will look like in another two?

I'm quite sure I can polish out the cloudy/hazy look with some Plast-X or whatever, but yeah my suggestion to all is don't buy these aftermarket ones! Cheap they may be, but cheap they are! Cheese whiz! lol. I'm probably going to replace it next year--with a factory/OE one and tint it, as mentioned before.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> I think we were discussing the aftermarket CHMSL (3rd brake light) in this thread before, right?
> 
> Just to update on mine after the season...
> 
> ...


oh no that's not so great news! I'll keep an eye out on mine and see how it goes but judging from the outcome of yours it'll degrade fairly soon. That's disappointing


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

(Note: image may not be to scale 🤣)

Has anyone ever chucked a long block in their boot? (random i know!). I'm looking to transport a 1.8t (for the TT Mk1 Project) and if push comes to shove i might need to use the Mk2 to carry it back home.

Has anyone done or seen how a 4 cylinder would go in there?


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

I know this doesn't answer your question, but a lesson learned when I was younger...

Years ago, I transported a Pontiac V8 engine block in a Toyota liftback for a friend. Nothing in that car was designed as a tie-down point, but we strapped the block down the best we could.

While in-route, another car cut in front of me and I had to brake hard. Of course the engine broke free and rolled forward doing quite a bit of damage. Guessing the block would have taken our heads off if we had actually collided.

… Personally, I wouldn't try it. Don't think there is a suitable strapping point in a TT.
Better off finding a friend with a pick-up truck and some ratcheting straps.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

FNChaos said:


> I know this doesn't answer your question, but a lesson learned when I was younger...
> 
> Years ago, I transported a Pontiac V8 engine block in a Toyota liftback for a friend. Nothing in that car was designed as a tie-down point, but we strapped the block down the best we could.
> 
> ...


I'd tend to agree with this myself too
Also why would you want to dirty your lovely TT


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

I agree with *FNChaos*. Personally, I'd rent a van or small flat bed truck for the transport. Much less risk of damage to the vehicle and/or engine trying to get all that over the trunk lip of your TT. I can't imagine how difficult it will be to even get it in and out of a TT Coupe in the first place.

Your best bet is to load the engine on a pallet and secure it in place with tie-down straps so it's not going anywhere. Then get the entire load into the van and secure that again with additional tie-down straps to whatever tie-down points are available. You might even be able to use an engine hoist to load and unload it while it's secured to the pallet and make the whole job a lot easier.


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## Graham'sTT (Dec 6, 2014)

Or a friend with a suitable trailer?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

yeah it looks like i'll have to phone a friend ot something to be able to bring the car + the spare engine in one trip. The coupe shape makes it's a bit trickier VS a regular hatchback which easily fits the 1.8t in.

Off to plan B - thanks everyone


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hi all! It's been a while. So I thought I'd post up some photos I took today and a sneaky peeky of a short video to come soon. 

















TT3.6 has been in storage for a while but I've taken him out for a ColourMFA firmware update. 









This is now what happens in ColourMFA when you

hold ESP button down for 5 seconds
S mode
foot on brake and accelerator


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Debug menu in ColourMFA "unlocks" some extra features. OPS works very well and after sending some data to the developers the ESP button now shows it's status in ColourMFA too.

I found that i needed this at the drags as i couldn't tell when ESP was off witht he previous firmware. I cover

parking sensor display (OPS)
steering angle display
climatronic values
ESP function
launch control screen

I love how this is just so dang handy!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Happy New Year everybody! Long time no update... other stuff has ben keeping me waaaaay too busy to even think about modding the TT but i'm making it a _thing_ to work on the car because i miss doing it so much.
It's definitely my zen place.

Anyway, with some words of encouragement from @MT-V6 i've also joined the HBA crew (yet to code this on yet as i still need an upgraded CANBUS gateway).









Not too hard to do however you must be OK with soldering or creating your own adaptor looms as going from 6 to 8 pin plugs is annoying due to the different sized pins in both plugs. I originally though i was just going to repin the 8 plug but nope - ended up re soldering everything together. Changing over the stalks to the non-latching type is the least painful part of this process.










I finally have a working anti dazzle rear view mirror again (it's been dead for.... hmm a good year?) so i'm happy about that + have wired up HBA and "just in case" wired for anti dazzle wing mirrors for good measure. Also i have got to say that my cockpit is looking mighty fine!

As usual - video guide for HBA and changing over the indicator stalks coming soon!

Adding my wiring notes for personal reference


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Another aspect to adding high beam assist (HBA) is the CAN gateway swap. This allows you to turn it on in the installation list. 

ORIGINAL:









7N0 MODULE:









Funny thing is that when I fired up VCDS prior to changing the CAN gateway I could already see and code the HBA aspect. There was an error with its installation (obviously as it wasn't enabled / recognised in CAN gateway yet) but I coded it to the spec of the car anyway. 


































Woohoo! At this stage HBA still doesn't work. 

The final step is upgrading the CECM to BCM. They are essentially "the same thing" in VCDS - ADDRESS 09 CENTRAL ELECTRICS however there's an upgraded version from 2010+ and some functions (like HBA) added). It's the module that controls all the body functions and the one you will usually be working with when doing retrofits. The BCM will allow the final coding of the HBA and give it full functionality. 

This is a huge rewiring job... Which will not be happening at the moment. 

In place of that is something else though! It is a wee module that a friend recommended exactly for the HBA upgrade. It's pretty ghetto at the moment but we were able to access it and start tinkering...









The mini device allows a new module to be installed in the CAN gateway called "3D - SPECIAL FUNCTION". You can see it's completely ghetto at the moment but the connections are 
5v power​Comfort CAN high​Comfort CAN low​​








Accessing it is the same as any other module and it'll be able to be coded the same way too. This step is designed to skip the BCM rewiring job but give you features like HBA and 5 blinks comfort indicators. We came to a stall as it looks like I also need to upgrade my steering wheel control module (SWCM) which has an option to turn on special functions to then talk to this aftermarket module. 

I don't have any documentation for the device just yet so can't tell you anything more about the coding options other than there are 13 bytes (lists) and many bits (MODS!) that can be activated. Will bring more information as it comes.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

For those looking to replace their rear view mirror or for those looking to upgrade to the HBA style mirror here is vpart 1 of the series for changing the rear view mirror / upgrading for the high beam assist unit.






It's a multi part job as there are other components that HBA depends on depending if you have a facelift car or not.This video series will relate to pre facelift vehicles.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey everyone,

Here's part two of installing HBA. Another one of the hardware dependencies is retrofitting of the correct, non-latching or momentary indicator stalks. You will see what I mean by momentary when you watch the video. 

This part was less painful than the the first video's job as not many pieces of trim require removal and the work space is not overhead. 

As part of this retrofit I also cover 

removing the airbag
removing steering wheel
removing steering wheel cowl / trim
removing the steering wheel control module and
 - steering angle sensor 






Enjoy!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ahhh it was a bad day... Lowered car, tight shopping centre parking entrance, sharply raised pedestrian crossing and raised paths on either side of the entrance up ramp = damaged side skirts and rim. 

Was "NOT HAPPY JAN" about this as there was a massive shunt when hitting the wheel on the curb. That's when I knew it was going to P!$$ me off. Not the greatest ... 

On the plus side it's repairable, I have all the clips to re install the skirt and will be happy when it's done. 

The damage ... The gashes run pretty much 80% of the length _sigh_


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

hope it's all sorted soon


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Well that totally Sucks. 

But on the bright side, I'm sure we can expect another outstanding 'How to' video like your 2020 YouTube video *Audi TT 8J Mk2 - Scuff Plate and Side Skirts Removal and Upgrade* 

When you pull the side skirt, would you be so kind and get some detail shots of the Jack Sockets? It would be a nice addition for anyone else who's got a damaged or broken one that needs to be replaced as discussed in this *post*.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Ahhh it was a bad day... Lowered car, tight shopping centre parking entrance, sharply raised pedestrian crossing and raised paths on either side of the entrance up ramp = damaged side skirts and rim.
> 
> Was "NOT HAPPY JAN" about this as there was a massive shunt when hitting the wheel on the curb. That's when I knew it was going to P!$$ me off. Not the greatest ...
> 
> ...


Sorry for your loss. 😢
I kerbed one of my wheels on a cobbled kerb last weekend. That sickening crunch😡

I've found that sometimes, it causes us to look at a particular area of the car and make it better than it was before the incident. 👍


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Well that totally Sucks.
> 
> But on the bright side, I'm sure we can expect another outstanding 'How to' video like your 2020 YouTube video *Audi TT 8J Mk2 - Scuff Plate and Side Skirts Removal and Upgrade*
> 
> ...


Yeah sure. I remember they just kind of sit in there and not bolted down.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> Sorry for your loss. 😢
> I kerbed one of my wheels on a cobbled kerb last weekend. That sickening crunch😡
> 
> I've found that sometimes, it causes us to look at a particular area of the car and make it better than it was before the incident. 👍


Not a total write off so it's fine... what made it worse is that we didn't even end up parking in that particular centre where the graze occured! D'oH!!!
All good - will be fixed soon anyway.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Ahhh it was a bad day... Lowered car, tight shopping centre parking entrance, sharply raised pedestrian crossing and raised paths on either side of the entrance up ramp = damaged side skirts and rim.
> 
> Was "NOT HAPPY JAN" about this as there was a massive shunt when hitting the wheel on the curb. That's when I knew it was going to P!$$ me off. Not the greatest ...
> 
> ...


Ugh, sorry to hear and see 

I had a scratch similar to that on my driver's side sill as well--not as long but fairly deep, into the plastic for sure. It was like that when I bought the car, so not my doing but seems easy to do in a car that has low sill/skirts. However it was very difficult to notice TBH. As it sits so low on the bodywork it is easily mistaken for dirt, etc, more then a scratch. 

I had it fixed when I had the front end repainted in Nov. Body shop guy was able to do a spot repair on it (didn't have to remove the skirt, etc.) and it looks great--quite glad it's gone even though it wasn't a huge deal before.

Incidentally this is why I don't want to lower mine any more than it is already; but at the same time I don't want to leave the OE springs in, which could break, as we've seen in yet another thread recently :|

Was your wheel okay, or did you scrape/bend it too?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Ugh, sorry to hear and see
> 
> I had a scratch similar to that on my driver's side sill as well--not as long but fairly deep, into the plastic for sure. It was like that when I bought the car, so not my doing but seems easy to do in a car that has low sill/skirts. However it was very difficult to notice TBH. As it sits so low on the bodywork it is easily mistaken for dirt, etc, more then a scratch.
> 
> ...


Thanks @TT'sRevenge 

i'll be removing the skirt and taking it somewhere to get repaired. thank goodness it's not bend ou of shapre or anthing like that.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Was your wheel okay, or did you scrape/bend it too?


 I don't wanna talk about it 


Next video while the skirt gets done is checking on VR6 timing chain stretch values


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey everyone here's a video on doing a bit of a health check for your VR6. If you need to check or have never checked your VR6 timing chain stretch - you should - and here's a quick how-to-guide and what it all could mean.

I look at what values you need to choose, how you can see the values all at once (through VCDS and colourMFA) along with deciphering what this all means.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Brilliant DIY!  Thanks! 

I've added it to the *FAQ - Mk2 3.2 VR6 (BUB) Maintenance & Service* found *here*. For more information on the timing chain system, this *post* is also helpful. 

And for anyone using *OBDeleven* this *post* will walk you through it and includes a video.

There's a fantastic *publication* from the *A3 Quattro Forum* (sorry it's only in German) on the early timing chain failures which were common prior to 2005- 2006 when Audi changed chain manufacturers from the Sachs to Iwis. They noted the lack of routine oil changes and poor lubrication (due to oil breakdown) was also a contributing factor to early chain wear.

They recommended not to use long life oils as the extended times between oil changes tends to contribute to the accumulation of sludge in the oil passages inside variable timing adjusters and oil valves preventing them from functioning properly. As shown below, there's also a tiny filter screen inside the housing which can't be accessed unless you do a major disassembly so you really don't want that getting blocked with sludge build up.

If you consider just important oil flow is to all the components that make up the variable timing hydraulic system, it's one more reason to stay on top of your oil changes! 

And for anyone considering an oil flush, the *A3 Quattro Forum* also recommends this detailed process and the products required to do it;
• Original post in German *here*.
• English translation in our Forum *here*.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ah great addition with the OBD 11 info. 

I thought to myself that I'd get asked that question "can you check this using obd11" so now I know where to direct people. 

Thanks!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> There's a fantastic *publication* from the *A3 Quattro Forum*


Oh wow that is d-e-t-a-i-l-e-d not sure if i'll read it all lol

I have also been pointed in the direction of a TSB/diagnostics guide and a PDFechoing and detailing more information.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So... Went on a road trip with a boot full of stuff. Like. FULL. OF. STUFF!!! 









We had clothes, tools, office stuff, a subwoofer, flat pack furniture and a 20L full jerry can in there. 

Needless to say my TT 3.6 FrankensTTein was packed to the brim! Bonus was that extra low look. Not so bonus was it was crowded inside haha









Biggest surprise, though, is this... Check out how many KM I got out of *ONE* tank. ONE TANK from a 3.6L VR6 with some KM to spare! I am shocked and super impressed! Yes this is all freeway driving but with two people and the boot totally full... It's a great result. 









Anyone else get such a great result form their VR6?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

What speeds are your freeways? I always wish that 6th gear was a bit higher, surely it would help a great deal with the V6 cruising economy, rather than 70mph at ~3000rpm? The fact that it changes into 6th at about 35mph is crazy really and a waste of a gear


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Most of this trip was the max speed of 110km/hr so that's ~68mph. (With the odd pedal to the metal to shoot past slow vehicles)

The R36 gearbox will have different ratios to th 3.2 and i feel it sits lower than 3k rpm at that speed. I'll have to monitor on the drive back up to town and post back.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

Good result! The extra weight will mainly affect fuel consumption when accelerating so not much impact on motorway cruising - aerodynamics are the key factor there.
Jez


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

That's interesting, I forgot about that. So is it the same 02E gearbox but with different ratios?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Jezzie said:


> Good result! The extra weight will mainly affect fuel consumption when accelerating so not much impact on motorway cruising - aerodynamics are the key factor there.
> Jez


Yeah I always try to keep the wing down after an overtake maneuver which the VR6 is oh so good at! 

@MT-V6 I switched the digital speedo to mph for ease of translation. The needles are already at km/hr although they do under read when comparing to the gps reading. GPS and ColourMFA align much better. I sit juuust under 3k. 
Funny thing when I filled up and was cruising at 100km/hr the distance left read 730km... That was an overly optimistic calculation for sure!!!


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Looks similar to mine, would have to confirm to be sure


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I've been noticing on longer drives (1.5 hrs +) that the aircon, mainly the fan, fatigues and then only blows weak cold air even though the setting has been set at high and no one's changed it. Not sure if that's normal but I've had this later revision (J suffix) blower sitting around from the donor R36 but just never fitted it. Approx 5 minutes later the replacement is installed and working well. Am looking forward to the next long drive to see if it acts the same way or not ...


















While the glovebox was out the decided to strip the boot back and revisit this old thing - Varex muffler









This is controllable via a few methods which which is via the typical key fob to open and close the flap or by a smart box which connects to an app on your phone. Me being me I've modded the interior light so the Homelink buttons interface with one of the fobs.

Then it's a matter of figuring out where to route the flap control signal and getting power to the Varex smartbox.








This is the easiest bung out to the rear undercarriage. It's on the left side of the boot toward the front of the car.









This is the wee plug that gives power to the smart box. It comes with a cigarette lighter attachment on the end but I've cut that off and will grab power from an OEM source which is now obsolete tech.









Out comes the front PAX seat where you can pull out a black box from under the carpet. Inside the black box is the original Bluetooth/Telephone module.








This module has an incredible amount of plugs for how useless it is (in this day and age). Luckily the 51 pin plug has a power and GND at pin 1 and 2 respectively. This is where I'll tap into for the Varex exhaust controller modules.









*ABOVE:* the Varex smartbox, keyfob receiver in the OEM BT module box (you can see it's near the electric seat plug cradle) & my phone with the app on. The Varex smartbox has several inputs for control:

key fob which I already mentioned is retrofitted into the homelink controls
via OBD called matric mode (I don't have the sable for this)
or via your phone through the Varex app. There is a Geo mode in the app which relies on a GPS glonass sensor to be plugged into the Varex Smartbox. This is wired up and behind the glovebox to the area behind the instrument cluster where eit can sit horizontally - a requirement of GPS antennas










One last pic of the 3.6 cat section. (with dodgy res delete) > 3.2 catback(which is a smaller diameter than the 3.6 piping).

More details on the wiring path for the various modules to be shown In a video soon and I can't wait to get the TT back in a few days


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

I'm excited to see how this exhaust works out


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> I'm excited to see how this exhaust works out


Yep I'm so looking forward to picking the TT back up!

I just remembered that i forgot to say stainless piping... i'll need to call back tomorrow and make sure that's done.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Apparently a few days can be condensed into overnight 😳 Was 3.6 cat section > dodgy mini res deletes in mild steel (was leaking) > 3.2 cat back joined by dodgy heat tape (another source of leakage). I admit though that was my bodge jobs just to get the 3.6 up and running.

















That's just a tad different! Now there's stainless plumbing from the cats, to a hit dog resonator, to the tilted muffler all the way to the 4.5" exhaust tips. How does it sound?









Well... I'll make a video for that ☺


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Its almost a week since the new exhaust is on and I'm loving a lot about it! Here are some screenshots of the app which controls the exhaust. Its rich in features and now the main thing is 
1 - working out what's the best mode for me 
2 - finding time to create a proper video as now the TT3.6 is sounding really REALLY nice. 

Matrix mode takes readings from the car where you can set custom parameters to have the valve open and close.









Options to adjust the valve opening manually (in addition to my hacked overhead Homelink map light unit)









Geo mode - where you can set a geofence so you can make sure you don't disturb The Queen as you drive by 😂









I really can't wait to show how this has all come together! I've never driven my car in S mode so much as the sound is just unreal. So many more smiles per mile now! Hehehe


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

I'm a muppet. How many others have been clicking on the arrows on your screenshots above, thinking they were vids?! 

Once you've paid the London congestion charge, one would be wanting to get one's money's worth whether HRH is home or not.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> I'm a muppet. How many others have been clicking on the arrows on your screenshots above, thinking they were vids?!


Bahahaha!!! oh no so sorry that wasn't supposed to trick you 😅 I didn't know how to make it go away when grabbing a screenshot !

I'm loving the setup so much and it's getting a 9/10 in my books so far! Definitely watch this space for how this Varex smart module works to give the best of both worlds and everything else in between.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Biggest surprise, though, is this... Check out how many KM I got out of *ONE* tank. ONE TANK from a 3.6L VR6 with some KM to spare! I am shocked and super impressed! Yes this is all freeway driving but with two people and the boot totally full... It's a great result.
> View attachment 484223
> 
> 
> Anyone else get such a great result form their VR6?


That's quite good I'd say, yeah! 644km = 400mi on a tank.

However it seems like all of these cars don't really get too much better or worse in terms of highway FE. For some reference with a 2.0T and a slightly larger car...

I did two recent road trips in the A3 recently (around 1500km round trips each) and this is what I got. It was just me and my stuff in the car (there's also a sub in the back in this car) but keep in mind the A3 is some 300-400lbs heavier than TT and doesn't have the aerodynamics either.

First trip was in cooler temps (at and below freezing) in late March. On "the way there" I struggled to get it up to 28 MPG *[US]* on the telltale*, but got just about there towards the end of the trip. I was getting maybe 350 mi before the tank was getting low enough that I wanted to get gas again...

On "the way back"--I was getting 28 MPG US pretty early on and managed to get up to 29.x later on. At one point I was staying at a hotel and went out late at night in search of food yet all the restaurants in the area were closed...along with all the gas stations! Was pretty incredible nothing was open. But while I was out I ended up running the tank to 0 mi remaining on the indicator and basically made it back to the hotel on fumes  Good thing a gas station was directly opposite so I fueled easily in the morning. Had driven just about 380mi (611km) at that point with an "empty" tank.

On the second trip it was warmer weather, mostly above 10C and getting up to 22C at one point. This trip I had some stoppage and traffic delays and such but was easily able to get over 29 and managed to tip into 30 MPG on the indicator. Again I was getting around 350-360 mi on the trip odo before I was filling up, but this time was showing more miles of remaining range had I kept driving--like 50-60 mi remaining, which theoretically should have gotten me to about 400mi.

In terms of speed I don't drive much slower then 120km/h on highways and therefore most of these trips were done at 75MPH+ speeds. Also I don't drive like grandma and at times when I'd have to accelerate...well lets just the car goes from 120 to 160 km/h+ in just a few seconds without even downshifting from 6th, in just a few seconds without much problem lol. Honestly it really _goes_ with the engine already turning 3k RPM and just giving a bit of throttle. K04 doesn't make it the fastest car out there but it ain't no slouch; and always puts a smile on my face as does the DSG  Many of these short "speed bursts" over the trip were done so that would have taken some "extra fuel" as well.

Interestingly on the way back on the second trip, due to a highway closure--thank goodness for modern day cell app navigation--I was having to stick to some lesser 2-lane highways for a bit to bypass. During this time was doing 100-110km, and saw the MPG go up to over 30 and the range really skyrocket to like 440mi remaining with already 30mi+ driven. Of course later would get back to that 120km/h-ish speeds but overall I think I would have ended up at over 400mi easily the way the fuel was going. However on this side of the trip I made some stops for shopping and eating and another hotel--so a bunch of city driving mixed in so didn't really get to see what I'd max out at. 

Had I driven slower for these trips though (110km/h or less) I think 400mi+ on a tank would have been fairly easy to net. 

For some conversions (and the TLDR lol):
*28-30 MPG US = 34-36 MPG Imperial = 8.4-7.8 L/100km
That's^ the range I was getting, while getting around 350-400 mi (560-640km) per tank during these trips.*

*Before anyone asks why I quote FE in MPG US instead of L/100km, it goes back to when I was a kid. You see there wasn't much of an internet then (certainly not publicly a thing either) and so those days I had subscriptions to all the big car mags--Car & Driver, Road & Track, etc. All of these of course showing FE in MPG, not the Canadian/metric customary L/100km thing. Since I grew up with US MPG, that's what I've always known and L/100km makes no sense to me. For that reason though obviously the gagues and stuff are in km, I keep my distance measurement (and thus FE #) in miles and US gallons, in my cars.

I'll be doing some road trips in summer with the TT, so I can report what I come up with then. However *I'm expecting I'm not going to break much more than 30MPG US in there either*, from what I know and how I drive. But, we'll see I guess! Fuel is expensive these days, you'd think I'd drive slower to get some more FE...nope!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> For some conversions (and the TLDR lol):
> *28-30 MPG US = 34-36 MPG Imperial = 8.4-7.8 L/100km
> That's^ the range I was getting, while getting around 350-400 mi (560-640km) per tank during these trips.*


Wow i'm surprised by this. You'd think the turbo 2.0L would be way more efficient. Maybe you just have a leadfoot but don't realise just how much?haha

thanks for the insight look forward to the update. I was thoroughly impressed by the 3.6's 600kms!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Wow i'm surprised by this. You'd think the turbo 2.0L would be way more efficient. Maybe you just have a leadfoot but don't realise just how much?haha
> 
> thanks for the insight look forward to the update. I was thoroughly impressed by the 3.6's 600kms!


LOL yeah well if I drove at a slower constant speed (even 10km/h slower would make a difference) and if I wasn't as happy to accelerate quite uh "briskly" when required, I'd probably get a little better mileage. But that's no fun--I mean not much point in having a K04 and everything on the car if going to drive like grandma, right?  I'm sure someone else might be able to do better, but that's actually pretty satisfactory to me--if I can get 30 MPG (US), I'm good with that.

As said I don't think you're really doing any miracles for FE on any of these cars whether it be a GTI, A3, R, TT, etc., with whatever engine. With the TTS modded with DP & tune, it has approx. the same power as the A3 does. In theory it should get better FE from less weight and better aero, but I haven't really seen anything noticeably better in regular driving--just seems the same to me (though the car is def. quicker). However I haven't gone on much of a road trip with the TT yet, so we'll see if it does any better on a trip of at least 400-500km, whenever I get to it. I also cleaned the TT's intake carbon just last year while the A3 has had 3-4yrs or so since cleaned (pretty sure I cleaned it the year after I put the K04 on it). Which reminds me it's probably time to do that again...along with a brake service & fluid flush, oh and would you look at that it's rounding the mileage for next DSG & Haldex fluid changes...I guess that one's gonna get a bit of work this summer! Just bought him a new set of tyres too. Did I ever mention cars are money pits?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

This is a pretty big update because i'm actually now really happy with not only the performance, looks and comforts of the TT but now the FrankensTTein 3.6 *SOUNDS* complete. 🏎 🔊

I've actually had all this kit since Jan 2020 but for some reason just never got around to getting it fitted. Maybe because i thought it was too complex, another reason might've been because it's made for an i30N and wasn't sure it would fit (even with major work). So i finally took the plunge and got the Varex exhaust fitted up.

Prior to taking it to the shop i installed the wiring, Varex Smart Box, and linked up the GPS antenna. Pics on the previous page show the upgrade. Specifically i've gone with

3" catback
hot dog resonator
modded Varex muffler (originally designed for an Hyundai i30N)
finished off with the Varex 4.5" tips (the exhaust guy was tossing up on whether or not to recycle the original tips but these JUUUUUUUST fit without any fouling)

Here's the tech - it's super impressive that there's THIS much control. What i love the best is that my HomeLink modded cabin light works perfectly with controlling the Varex exhaust flap when the phone is our of reach and i need to make a quick change. There's a lot that i detail in this video to give you a good overview of the features.

I definitely should've done this earlier. Enjoy!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey all. Another update. Another mod. This time it's pt. 3 of the retro fit of the HBA or high beam assist kit.

Finally the hardware is put to use now that I was able to change the steering wheel control module for a 1k0 model which allows for activation of "Special purpose" vehicle that allows the FLA module to send messages in the CANbus. FLA stands for Fernlichtassist which means something German for I don't know exactly 😅 

It's a cool mod and also allows for activation of many other features like 5 (or more) comfort blinkers, turbo timer option and something like push start button function where you flick the key to start but don't actually have to hold it in position while the engine cranks. 

Check out the video to see what HBA is all about. I think it's handy especially if you tend to drive places where there's not much light. 

Caveat a lot of things have gone offline because this SWCM isn't specific for the car which O talk about in the video. I swapped back to the 8P one as running this 1k module has given me an error in the 2nd stage airbag. All the other errors I was able to overcome. The airbag thing is a simple fix but would require an extra two pins to be added to the 1k0 board to allow for that airbag to be wired up. I didn't have a spare module to take this pin from to add them. Essentially the SWCM is just a pass through for the airbags. 
I will probably wire up the BCM in the end to have HBA function + 5 comfort blinkers and not use this FLA unless a solution that overcomes the issues I faced are fixed. 

Enjoy!


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Engine Swap Depot messaged me to check if I'd like my car in their website. I thought why not! It'll be awesome to have a TT Mk2 representing and for them to post mine up I felt pretty chuffed about that! 

They've done a nice job of writing my journey in a nice blog post that you can read here. 

Ian G's Audi TT Mk2 with R36 3.6L VR6


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Cheap and cheerful mod this time! I had a busted indicator globe fault come up so decided to upgrade to LED globes. Instead of replacing the indicator with the LED unit I've kept those halogen and have upgraded the reverse bulbs for Auxito W16W wedge LED CANbus bulbs. They're not going to break the bank so that's a plus and they've not displayed any errors.

So far they're good to go and give a nice bright white light which is super helpful for reversing!

Check out the how to remove tail lights quick guide and bulb replacement video.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

The Reverse, Fog and Globe lights can be coded out.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Coded out? I assume you mean coded out from erroring (cold-diagnosis?) and not coded out from functioning?


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Yup, cold diagnosis. No error without the bulb installed. The stupid computer thinks the + is short to ground without the bulb installed. I installed the tailgate interior led with + - terminal shorted without knowing. I only found out because I get a fault code on the comfort module saying + short to ground. Without the bulb installed I get the same fault code.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

LED reverse lights has to be one of those on the 'must mod' list!

I can't even remember how long I've had them, but in comparison to my daily - getting onto the drive and seeing where I am going, isn't a comparison!
Didn't know that the cold diagnosis would help with the LED's though. Over the years I have tried a fair few different bulbs with varying outcomes.
I'll just switch that off next time I have the vag com out.

Good documental work as always Ian


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Barr_end said:


> LED reverse lights has to be one of those on the 'must mod' list!


Now I've had these on a few weeks I can tell they are way brighter as I can see the road through the tinted windows where it was really hard to make it out with the regular bulb.










Went to get a pink slip (think it's an equivalent of an MOT) to re register the TT but they said I needed new tyres. So I went on to search for a good quality tyre. The Pirelli Dragon Sports that I've had on there have lasted a decent amount of Kilometers considering they've been on a track a few times. I did find a place selling them for a great price fitted and balanced but instead it went for the above.

They're Hancook R-S4 semi-slicks at 235/35/19. Looking forward to seeing how these go on a regular drive and if course when we head out back onto the track again. 

Has anyone fitted these and can give their own anecdotes? Especially in the wet since it's looking like La Nina still isn't over for us 🤣


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

@ *Barr_end* -


Barr_end said:


> I'll just switch that off next time I have the vag com out.


When you do, can you post a thread and walk us through the coding process? I'm going to be using my Roadster as a daily driver here shortly, so LED reverse lights would be handy.


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## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *Barr_end* -
> 
> 
> When you do, can you post a thread and walk us through the coding process? I'm going to be using my Roadster as a daily driver here shortly, so LED reverse lights would be handy.


I put in Osram leds with no error message (I posted pics on the forum too)
Edit: just checked - they were Auxito - the Osram was something else. Here’s my pics: Canbus brake LED, reverse LED


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## zsdom (Oct 25, 2020)

The Auxito bulbs are available in the UK too via ebay

Auxito bulbs


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Jezzie said:


> I put in Osram leds with no error message (I posted pics on the forum too)


Not to jam Ian's thread with posts... But thought I should reply to both these
Whatever brand is currently in there, also have no issues with errors
However I think the 'arguement' of spending 2 minutes with vag com and never having to think of it again, than remember to order specific bulbs is sensible - especially for those of us who own a vagcom



SwissJetPilot said:


> @ *Barr_end* -
> 
> When you do, can you post a thread and walk us through the coding process? I'm going to be using my Roadster as a daily driver here shortly, so LED reverse lights would be handy.


I will certainly try to remember! I have already had it out once since typing this and didn't remember to even turn it off 😅


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

To add to this it would be good to test this cold diagnosis coding on/off option with led bulbs that trigger an error. Then turning it off to see if it permanently stops the error occuring.

Reckon you could do that @Barr_end ?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh dear. 

























It has begun. The actual death of my DQ250 is very much on the way. While going to park up to do groceries the transmission "fell out" of reverse. The only way to fix the issue is to power cycle the car then shift straight into reverse to complete the maneuver. This the I had to try 3 times before I was able to finish reversing lol 

This is the worst it's been but I'm surprised it's taken this long to "break" 😅


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Some DSG faults can only be detected on Basic Setting. 

The internal filter is probably clogged. The reason why DSG are failing is because most guide you find online are wrong. You need to overfill the transmission to remove or drain out the trap air (air bubble). The reason why dealer use gravity feed filler is to remove as much air as possible before starting the engine. Air is always try to go up. If the fluid is not overfilled you won't be able to remove the remaining air bubble. That's why the mamual clearly says to dispose and never use the fluid that drains out.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Oh dear.
> 
> It has begun. The actual death of my DQ250 is very much on the way. While going to park up to do groceries the transmission "fell out" of reverse. The only way to fix the issue is to power cycle the car then shift straight into reverse to complete the maneuver. This the I had to try 3 times before I was able to finish reversing lol
> 
> This is the worst it's been but I'm surprised it's taken this long to "break" 😅


Yikes! Sorry to see that happen :| 

Why's it surprising it didn't have an issue earlier? Knowing you swapped the engine and all that, I'm guessing the trans was from a donor car/yard where there was no known history?

Could just be the MU, no? Or are you thinking it's more an internal/mechanical problem? What is your plan from here? Get another trans or try to work with the existing one--refurb the MU, replace the clutch packs, etc.?


----------



## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

*Does your coolant temp gauge normally point above 90 degrees C?* 

I know a good technique to move the car without any help from anyone. Impossible to push the car all by your self but you can easily move it by turning the rim


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Wolvez said:


> Some DSG faults can only be detected on Basic Setting.
> View attachment 487087


Nah that won't do it. The DSG I put on doesn't belong to the low mileage 3.6 engine that's been swapped... I actually removed the good box and put into our sedan R36 to make it more daily driveable. Ended up selling that car. Then to get the TT3.6 running I was always planning to have this dodgy DSG installed then work on the proper transmission later.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Why's it surprising it didn't have an issue earlier? Knowing you swapped the engine and all that, I'm guessing the trans was from a donor car/yard where there was no known history?


I always knew this box and mecha was dodgy and considering I've not been easy on the car I'm surprised it's lasted this long! I have been expecting it to randomly die on the track or on a spirited drive but for some reason it just keeps going. All the forward gears are fine (although can be jerky in S mode) and I only really experience these errors after a long drive then doing the parking maneuvres results in these errors. 



TT'sRevenge said:


> Or are you thinking it's more an internal/mechanical problem?


Most likely needs clutch servicing as I installed a good know replacement mecha. This helped a little bit initially but it's on its way again. 



Wolvez said:


> Does your coolant temp gauge normally point above 90 degrees C?


Yeah thats normal. I don't want to play with the calibration because the motor will probably break. I broke two when installing ColourMFA. LOL luckily I had spare mk6 golf clusters where I stole the motors from. 



TT'sRevenge said:


> What is your plan from here?


#savethemanuals


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> #savethemanuals


Oh so you're gonna swap in a manual eh? I guess that should be 'easy' enough given there was a manual option from factory. Guessing you will find one of those (if you don't have one already), put in an upgraded clutch, pop that in along with the pedal and slave cylinder...and off you go 😁


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah thats normal. I don't want to play with the calibration because the motor will probably break. I broke two when installing ColourMFA. LOL luckily I had spare mk6 golf clusters where I stole the motors from.


Drop me a message on Facebook Ian, I'll run you through it!
Had my clocks in bits more times than I care to remember and not broken one but like you have had to fiddle with the temp gauge plenty 😅 To get it spot on


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh so you're gonna swap in a manual eh? I guess that should be 'easy' enough given there was a manual option from factory. Guessing you will find one of those (if you don't have one already), put in an upgraded clutch, pop that in along with the pedal and slave cylinder...and off you go 😁


Well a manual option for the 3.2 but not for the 3.6... so there's a hurdle there.

Let's rewind back to 2019 .... before all this Corona stuff happened... and we were able to travel freely *for the gathering of many parts!* 🤣











Barr_end said:


> Drop me a message on Facebook Ian, I'll run you through it!
> Had my clocks in bits more times than I care to remember and not broken one but like you have had to fiddle with the temp gauge plenty 😅 To get it spot on


Cheers! i'll take you up on that call soon X


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Ah so you just need to install that extra pedal in the footwell and I assume it's just a coding option?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

lol i wish!

its definitely an ECU reflash moment.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> They're Hancook R-S4 semi-slicks at 235/35/19. Looking forward to seeing how these go on a regular drive and if course when we head out back onto the track again.
> 
> Has anyone fitted these and can give their own anecdotes? Especially in the wet since it's looking like La Nina still isn't over for us 🤣


Haven't tried those, probably never will use 200 (and less) TW tyres since I don't go to the track but guessing you've already seen these?
(Dry only results v. other ~200 TW tyres):





US TireRack review (does have wet data):





Full results:


https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=262





IPG3.6 said:


> Well a manual option for the 3.2 but not for the 3.6... so there's a hurdle there.


Oh it doesn't just bolt up? Did you have to get a DSG from another car too (like other than the TT)?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Tyres seem ok I'm not experiencing the tyre roar that's expressed in the video. 
Notnyet had them on the track yet so we will see! 



TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh it doesn't just bolt up? Did you have to get a DSG from another car too (like other than the TT)?


Yeah it bolts up fine. Just like the 3.6 block does however the TCU will be missing and the ECU will be looking for it. So there needs to be a custom tune where all of that is corrected.


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## Apow (7 mo ago)

What i awesome thread very insight full.  

Thanks for the wright up.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Yeah it bolts up fine. Just like the 3.6 block does however the TCU will be missing and the ECU will be looking for it. So there needs to be a custom tune where all of that is corrected.


Would it perhaps be easier to take the ECU from a manual 3.2, and put it in your car? I get there will be some things then to be coded/changed (like immobiliser, etc.) to have that ECU work in another car but could it be easier that way? Or did you already have to customise your existing one for the 3.6 instead of the 3.2 already?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Would it perhaps be easier to take the ECU from a manual 3.2, and put it in your car? I get there will be some things then to be coded/changed (like immobiliser, etc.) to have that ECU work in another car but could it be easier that way? Or did you already have to customise your existing one for the 3.6 instead of the 3.2 already?


3.2 ecu from the golf mk5 VS 3.6 ecu are very different beasts.

One is Me 7.1.1 and the other is MED9.1 so that's not possible.Manual swapping the 3.6 WILL require a custom flashtune.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Came home to a verrrrrry flat battery and realised this whole the time Varex Smart Box exhaust controller was permanently on. 

The wiring to the Bluetooth module runs off battery power and must turn off via CAN bus. 

Checking the wiring diagrams and cross referencing with whats in my car I saw a spot which was IGN power. Do the 5a fuse on the lowest row is for the BT/phone module. I need to move that to #9 (gap on the 2nd row from top) - this would usually be reserved for Magride. 

Luckily the wire to the bottom row is quite long so the relocation was pretty simple. 









Done! Now that's sorted hopefully I don't kill my battery again 🙈


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have been meaning to post this for a while as i was curious to see if the malfunctioning mirror could be repaired. My main issue was that the dimming function stopped working. There was no signs of the glass being broken showing the telltale leakage on the edges. The green light would turn on infrequently but it was mostly off. I opened up the dimming rear view mirror to see if there was anything that had come loose or broken.... and inside was a bit of a surprise!

Apologies TT3.6 updates are super slow lately as the Mk1 DGP project is taking most of my time these days.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice post Ian!  I always wondered what was inside those things.  
I've linked it into another older post on auto dimming fails so we don't loose this in the clutter... 
Here's a bit more detail for anyone who's interested - From workshop manual *General Body Repairs, Interior; D3E80079BA4. 
















*


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Now that most of the big things are done I can go back and refine some installation. ColourMFA has now been working in the Mk2 for a while now and I've finally got some connectors to tidy up the installation. 

That orange connector block is from the TT Mk1 which I had on hand at the time. Full ColourMFA installation video to come soon.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Looking much better now! 
Before...









After...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Ahhh the mess of wired when doing a ColourMFA upgrade!









Once neatened up it all makes quite a nifty little (almost) plug and play kit. 









In usual fashion an installation guide will be posted soon.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Any sign of colour MFA modules coming in for the TT or alternatives from other locations 😉

I do so need one 😭


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Hey @JohnnyFarmer I *CAN* get a small run of them but the pricing is a tad higher than the usual due all the things going on in Russia , chip shortages, can't do PayPal for a 1 fee transfer (amongst other challenges). If you are interested I could pencil it in as I have some others in Aus who are also interested.


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## JohnnyFarmer (Aug 19, 2016)

Thanks Ian - I will PM to talk over details in next couple of days if I may. 🙏🙏🙏


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

No worries @JohnnyFarmer

The full detailed installation guide for ColourMFA the in Audi TT Mk2. This is compatible throughout the whole range of 8J models.

I reckon this is THE ultimate instrument cluster mod that one can do as the functionality of the unit is leaps and bounds over what either the red of white cluster brings. This is definitley not for the purists but if you hate it - you can revert back. This is very different to the TT Mk1 ColourMFA installation which is a destructive process.

After more than a year of running/testing ColourMFA in my TT 8J i can now proudly say it works FREAKING well and here's the install video guide. Happy Hump-Day!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> View attachment 431363
> 
> 
> View attachment 431365
> ...


It's kind of odd the way you fit those mid speakers lol. However your OE mid speakers look larger than mine? I think the Blose system has smaller drivers in the middle. But unlike the non-Blose, the mid speaker can be removed from the housing (the main driver at the bottom of the door is the same though, the speaker is built into it). I think if I had the above version of the mid-door driver/housing, my mids would fit right in there. Instead, they are ever so slightly too big to drop in!  
In my post here you can see they are _just_ too big to fit:








Getting to the end of things :) Stereo install...


So when I bought this car in late 2020 I had planned to get some pretty specific things done on it, and am glad to say most of those are now done! I'm basically on the last piece of the puzzle which is the stereo--and that's about half done now too :) Love the TT and am overall really happy...




www.ttforum.co.uk





I'm gonna attempt to Dremel around the inside edge to get enough space to drop them in. Those larger non-Blose ones look like they would have been better but will take too long/cost too much to try and source now. Too bad I didn't realise this ahead of time. Oh well.



IPG3.6 said:


> The plug end of the tweeter snaps easily off the oem housing. Saves having to cut and strip in the confined space.
> View attachment 431585
> 
> 
> ...


You're lucky the tweeters fit there, mine are too thick, and the grille won't fit over top. So now I have the options of either drilling a hole in the grille--the tweeter can then be fitted into the grille like that; or, putting the tweeters into the doors instead, by drilling holes in those. Did you fiddle with tweeter placement or did you just go straight for the factory location? I'm wondering if they won't sound better in the doors anyway...




IPG3.6 said:


> I have removed the rear speakers altogether as they're better elsewhere ... (in the bin)
> Now to do the other side then re tune the system!


LOL agreed there, but I'm just going to unplug them I guess, that and the buzzy Blose "subwoofer" box.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> It's kind of odd the way you fit those mid speakers lol.


I know i'm so sorry but i wasn't sure it would work... but it did so i've just left it that way haha



TT'sRevenge said:


> However your OE mid speakers look larger than mine?





TT'sRevenge said:


> You're lucky the tweeters fit there, mine are too thick,


yeah i figured with a set that was designed for the PQ35 platform (IL-C8.3 VW Golf 5) that these would fit into the original housings/locations.



TT'sRevenge said:


> Did you fiddle with tweeter placement or did you just go straight for the factory location?


Didn't play around with locations - just slapped them right in there. Time alignment REALLY helps to optimise it all. 

What's the the Blose buzzing? Must be broken.


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

How to change Audi TT Mk2 8J windscreen wipers. Old and clicking wiper blades were annoying me!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> yeah i figured with a set that was designed for the PQ35 platform (IL-C8.3 VW Golf 5) that these would fit into the original housings/locations.


Oh so your housings didn't come from a TT? Guess that explains it, but they fit at least!




IPG3.6 said:


> What's the the Blose buzzing? Must be broken.


Well I mean not all the time, I just mean at high volumes and heavier bass, the cheap plastic "sub" enclosure does that--they didn't really think that through but then again a lot of cars are guilty of this.


----------



## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

IPG3.6 said:


> How to change Audi TT Mk2 8J windscreen wipers. Old and clicking wiper blades were annoying me!
> 
> View attachment 490321


Surely this isn't your first swap of blades since owning the car though?


----------



## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Barr_end said:


> Surely this isn't your first swap of blades since owning the car though?


His probably don't such a lot of use as ours 

In a normal year anyway...


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Oh so your housings didn't come from a TT?


Nah they were off an A4 or A6 or something like that...



TT'sRevenge said:


> I just mean at high volumes and heavier bass, the cheap plastic "sub"


ahhh right so it sounds these are a bit under spec or the housing isn't fixed on solidly enough.



Barr_end said:


> Surely this isn't your first swap of blades since owning the car though?


it's not but but i think it's just been a while since last doing it i purely forgot 😓


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

IPG3.6 said:


> It's not but but i think it's just been a while since last doing it i purely forgot 😓


Now that certainly makes much more sense! 
Was about to say it can't rain that little in Aus that you don't need to replace them for years on end 😅 
I certainly know the last part of your reply - retention for info is hard work 🤣


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Barr_end said:


> Surely this isn't your first swap of blades since owning the car though?


Seems he has changed them but still doesn't seem out of the question. Wipers on my A3 are original, car is nearing 10 years old, don't plan on replacing them any time soon as they are fine and I barely ever use the wipers as I find they are more a crutch than anything else. Aquapel FTW. 

On the TT, I've no way of knowing if the wipers are original but they are OE wipers and didn't work that well at first. When I got the car, as a part of all the parts I'd ordered, I threw a set of OE wiper blades into one of the orders. However, after I polished and Aquapelled the windshield the wipers on the car worked fine; and I don't really need the wipers w/Aquapel, so those new ones are just sitting in a box, I never bothered to put them on.

Granted it's not quite as wet here as in UK but it's not dry either. When it rains, even even in heavy storms, I never use the wipers anyway.

Over time I've realised in a rainstorm I'd rather have a car with treated glass and _no wipers at all_, than a car with wipers and untreated glass. Any time I've had to rent a car and it happens to rain heavily I hate it--can't see anything even with the wipers going like mad 🙄


----------



## Jezzie (May 24, 2020)

So is Aquapel good at repelling bird shit, splattered insects, etc?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> after I polished and Aquapelled the windshield


I think I need to do this on the daily which looks "streak marked" and it's really visible when it's foggy / humid. Makes it quite dangerous when sun shines on the glass on a specific angle the streaks end up really glaring my eyes. What's your best recommendation to polish the glass ?


----------



## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Jezzie said:


> So is Aquapel good at repelling bird shit, splattered insects, etc?


Good point. Bug splatters are the worst! 

Also @TT'sRevenge what happens to the coating if you pressure wash the car ? Or do you have to coat after each wash?


----------



## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Jezzie said:


> So is Aquapel good at repelling bird shit, splattered insects, etc?


I don't know that it is or isn't but I haven't exactly driven through a swarm of locusts or something, ever in my life lol. Sure those things may hit and stick to the windshield but I just leave them, as using the wipers on them will just make it worse as the bugs will get smeared around plus gum up the wipers. In fact not using the wipers on these things probably also makes them last longer since you're not getting the acids, etc. from them on the blades.

Anyway a few bugs on the windshield on a road trip is NBD between gas stops where you can clean the windshield properly. Also bugs only come in the summer and more so at night--in a shitty country like Canada where it's winter nearly all the time, bugs are so far down the list of things to worry about while driving, it's not funny.

None of that changes the reality of my one car that I've had since new and is nearly 10 years old, still having the original wipers and them still being perfectly fine. Car has been daily driven, year round, all its life. Okay well the past couple years I've had the TT and the A3 doesn't get driven too much in the summer, but that's only a few months a year.

I'm not going to say I absolutely _never _use the wipers but I use them very sparingly and the proof is in the longevity. And there's really no point in using the wipers with Aquapel above 60-70km/h because they don't help any. You can see just the same _without_ the wipers at all; and, most importantly, better than untreated glass with wipers at ludicrous speed in the same conditions.



IPG3.6 said:


> I think I need to do this on the daily which looks "streak marked" and it's really visible when it's foggy / humid. Makes it quite dangerous when sun shines on the glass on a specific angle the streaks end up really glaring my eyes. What's your best recommendation to polish the glass ?


I used CarPro Ceriglass. Below is a link to a Canadian online shop but I'd imagine you could find this at a similar place in Australia...








CarPro CeriGlass Polish KIT 150ml


CarPro CERI GLASS: GLASS POLISH & CLEANER (150ML) KITCeriGlass is a special glass polishing system developed by the innovative technique of blending special ceramics (which include Cerium Oxide) together with other nano components and mild abrasives. CeriGlass deep cleans and polishes all glass...




carzilla.ca





It was actually pretty cheap for the kit--though price seems to have gone up, IIRC I paid less than $20. It uses a cerium oxide compound (which is less aggressive but easier to use than say using cerium oxide powder). I'd recommend a drill attachment at least though as it's still tough even with that so by hand would be...a _lot_ of elbow grease. If you use a drill w/attachment or a DA, etc. you'll need to get glass polishing "pads" as well, which are like this:








CARPRO GLASS CUTTING/POLISHING PAD, 3


CARPRO GLASS CUTTING/POLISHING PAD, 3", 5", 6" High Cutting Minimal Heat Stable Glass Cutting pads Hook/Loop backing Made in USA Cut: Glass, Minerals, Metals Material: Rayon Lenzing Fiber PRODUCT TYPE : Glass Polishing Pad




carzilla.ca





Very thin and hard material, which is needed for glass polishing.

Now the thing is my windshield on the TT is actually _really_ pitted all those kms on the clock were certainly "highway miles" and both the front end (now repainted) and the windshield were clear evidence of that. Really, I need to have the windshield replaced I think but I've been iffy on spending the money to have it done (one other thing I wouldn't try to do myself).

The polishing of the glass will remove contaminants, light scratches, and clear it up (you can actually start by claying the glass as well). It doesn't do miracles though so it's not gonna fix heavily pitted glass like mine. You can get more aggressive by using powder but still won't be able to remove material that it would fix pits.

The polishing did improve my visibility though and made the same old wipers that were on the car actually work fine afterwards, so clearly it was needed. I may replace my windshield altogether but I'm still undecided on that. The worst part about the pitted glass is when you drive into direct sunlight--exactly as you say--otherwise you don't really notice it much. Driving in sun like that I do get a bit nervous and become a lot more cautious because visibility is compromised. If your glass is very pitted, I'd consider replacing too but otherwise a polish of glass that's old and otherwise not in the greatest shape is definitely beneficial.



IPG3.6 said:


> Good point. Bug splatters are the worst!
> 
> Also @TT'sRevenge what happens to the coating if you pressure wash the car ? Or do you have to coat after each wash?


Oh no man, Aquapel lasts like 3-6 months*. Pressure washing...while I wouldn't hit it with close range high pressure (I mean that's unnecessary anyway), that won't do anything. It has to survive water hitting it a highway velocities so washing doesn't do anything. Actually cleaning the glass (not pressure washing per se but just cleaning it with soap, glass cleaner, etc.) serves to rejuvenate the effectiveness.

*That's what they rate it for but because I've gone far longer than 6 months without re-application at times, I would say the coating never really leaves the glass entirely, it just becomes less effective. As said cleaning the glass always brings it back a bit and it can have a decent level of effectiveness IME, even a year plus later.

Aquapel was designed by PPG (well known glass company), _for_ glass, originally for applications like aviation/aerospace. It chemically bonds to the glass so it lasts much longer than stuff like Rain-X (which I used to use on my dad's car as far back in the day, and then through most of the 90s when I could drive; before discovering Aquapel towards the end of the decade). Unlike Rain-X, Aquapel bonds to the glass at a finer level and therefore lasts much longer. Also it doesn't create wiper skipping/chatter marks as I always remember Rain-X doing, for the few times you actually do use them.

These days there are also ceramic coatings which can be applied to glass to a similar effect, as I'm sure you're aware. I continue to use Aquapel though because it's what I've used for many years and because it was designed by a glass manufacturer, for glass, and it just makes sense to me to keep using it. It's also much cheaper at $6-7 per applicator.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Awesome thanks for the links and will check it out. Lucky with have a detailing kit that those pads can Velcro onto. 

Very cool now to try source this special Canadian style window glass treatment.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Went and raided some Audis at the wreckers the other day and found some goodies. 

Found a knurled mirror control knob from a facelift S3 8P to replace the gloss black unit off an A5. They just pop off with a pry tool









Now i noticed the holes differ in shape so experiment time. Attempted to drill out the knurled one to fit the one in the door trim. I stepped up to this size In the end - 3/16.









This is the rear of the A5 knob. The A3 one was more square...









After a bit if this and that the knob pushed on and functions as normal (doesn't just spin which I was afraid of). Best thing is that there's a circle that lights up with interior lights. The gloss black one didn't have this feature. 👌


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good job, would have been easier to get the TT switch 

Your middle position is different too, not seen that. Do you have heated mirrors? Maybe not required there!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

hahahha i know but can't find any down here 

Nope no heated - that is just "nothing" position.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

ColourMFA gave me a warning for a routine oil change. So up on the ghetto level raiser (I still can't find a ramp gradual enough) and I get all the kit out to remove the undertray.

I prefer to use Purflux brand oil filter because it's the brand stamped on the VR6 oil filter housing. Makes sense right? 

















While Under there it was nice to see the THICK exhaust.









Wasn't that oil at all under there! Just a thin spattering at the front of the sump and uh oh. Looks like the bellhousing has taken a hit or two 😪








Oh well that gearbox isn't permanent anyway!

Once done we clean him up and meet up with my cousins at a local winery. Chin chin!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Get yourself a set of these Stahlbus drain valves. It makes oil changes SO much easier! I have one on sump and one on the non-OEM oil filter housing. Easy peasy!









Oil Pan & Oil Filter Housing Drain Valves


http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/#How_it_works




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I like the animation on their page which explains how it works. Main question is IF there's gunk in the sump how will it pass through the spring and ball mechanism? Looks like there could be a risk of buildup.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Fair point, but honestly, I doubt that's that much left behind. I guess if there's real concern for sludge build up in the pan, it would be worth pulling it and giving it a good clean. Personally, I change my oil every six months anyway, regardless of mileage so I doubt there's much of an opportunity for sludge build up. Here in the land of ice and snow come winter, we have to change our summer and winter tires every October and April. So I just do an oil and filter change while I'm at it. Besides, oil and filters are cheap insurance.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

With regards to your ramps, if you know someone that can weld, I can give you the dimensions off mine and you can make yourself a set. These came with a low ramp add-on that's perfect for the TT. Link *here* -


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## Nidana (Jun 9, 2018)

SwissJetPilot said:


> Get yourself a set of these Stahlbus drain valves. It makes oil changes SO much easier! I have one on sump and one on the non-OEM oil filter housing. Easy peasy!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I’m wanting to do this for the oil filter have futomo for the pan and used that this year on oil change for the first time and loved it. Then remembered about your oil filter and will be planning on that for next oil change.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have had my fuel cap "leash" (i don't know what to call it...) broken for a loooooong long time now. Was at the wreckers the other day and thought to grab one off a VW. Well.... little did i know how different they could be! 🤣


THe broken securing piece is easy enough to remove as it was heat damaged and broke off.

















This was the uh-oh moment.
VW left, TT right:









On inspection I thought "maybe you can swap the inner sections around?"









Well you can't. hahaha The insides of the caps ALSO differ!!!

So i thought "ok.... maybe i can swap the ring and leash?"

















So you can definitely remove the ring and swap them around BUT the VW one doesn't spin freely when installed on the TT cap. It moves but doesn't sit inside the groove so it's a bit tight. Installation is as simple as pushing the eyelet on the nipple.










I would call this a semi-success as i've got the cap reattached to the lid but the ring doesn't spin as freely (who knows that might even prevent it from breaking int he future?).

Another Q i have - why the different cap styles? 
The TT one has the "ears" so it can screw into the top of the filler section but there's also the part that portrudes. They both "press in" though (i'm guessing for some kind of pressure relief?).


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

The tether or "leash" isn't really that necessary though, is it? In fact I find it's kind of a nuissance more than anything. The cap is designed so the notches in the bottom of it allow it to be sat atop the fuel door when filling the tank. The stupid part is it only fits one way so sometimes you have to spin it to get to sit right (which is why the tether is actually bothersome). This is a little known fact about older Audi fuel caps--that they sit on top of the fuel door like that. I think it's mentioned in the manual but it never occurred to me until someone else pointed it out on another forum many moons ago.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

You might also consider a DIY fuel filler bib. I borrowed this idea off a Porsche. Used an old truck tire innertube, works great! Not so much for myself, although it's a great place to get those annoying drips off the nozzle so they don't end up on the paint. But more for countries like Italy, where they often have full service, and the operators can be a bit careless.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> have to spin it to get to sit right


Pretty sure mine spinning the wrong way and putting the fuel cap back down on it contributed to the breakage. I'll see how this tighter one goes as it's less likely to spin into the wrong position now. 



SwissJetPilot said:


> DIY fuel filler bib


What the heck I've never seen this before! 

So it's maim function is to stop fuel dribbling on the paint? I always just rinse that off with water. Our servos always have a watering can nearby for a quick rinse before you go.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Pretty sure mine spinning the wrong way and putting the fuel cap back down on it contributed to the breakage. I'll see how this tighter one goes as it's less likely to spin into the wrong position now.
> 
> What the heck I've never seen this before!
> 
> So it's maim function is to stop fuel dribbling on the paint? I always just rinse that off with water. Our servos always have a watering can nearby for a quick rinse before you go.


I think you can buy those in like auto parts stores but looks like he made that one himself out of a rubber sheet or something. I'm sure it works well. Personally, what I've always done though is when I pull the nozzle out of the filler neck I turn it upside down as I do so, causing any extra fuel to stay in the nozzle. Have almost never spilled fuel on paint doing this. Plus, if I did, I'm sure the ceramic coat is good to protect against any issues. 

Realistically gasoline doesn't damage cured paint/clearcoat anyway, but it does look bad. You can actually use gasoline (just like mineral spirits) to remove stuff like tar, road paint spray (like when they just painted the lines and you happened to drive over them), etc. from paint. Also handy for killing weeds between stones and such lol. But don't really recommend gasoline for these kinds of things since it's both not cheap these days and is a major pollutant when you let it evaporate into the atmosphere (hence why we have evap systems!).


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> You can actually use gasoline (just like mineral spirits) to remove stuff like tar, road paint spray (like when they just painted the lines and you happened to drive over them), etc. from paint. Also handy for killing weeds between stones and such lol. But don't really recommend gasoline for these kinds of things since it's both not cheap these days and is a major pollutant when you let it evaporate into the atmosphere (hence why we have evap systems!).


I actually used petrol (cheapest stuff) to clean out our TDI intercooler LOL. Way cheaper than cans and cans of degreaser and it really helped to flush out the chunks of turbo that broke off.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> I actually used petrol (cheapest stuff) to clean out our TDI intercooler LOL. Way cheaper than cans and cans of degreaser and it really helped to flush out the chunks of turbo that broke off.


Chunks of turbo?!  That must've been a fun one!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Oh yeah. I thought we might be able to use the housing to upgrade to bigger compressor wheel. When I got the unit out and went to take the compressor housing off it fell into two halves in my hands. Haha


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

IPG3.6 said:


> So it's main function is to stop fuel dribbling on the paint?


No, not to catch the drips so much. Mostly to protect the edge of the filler from careless gas station attendants. The bib covers the edge of the filler door so if they are a bit careless when removing the fuel nozzle, they hit the bib, not the paint!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

SwissJetPilot said:


> No, not to catch the drips so much. Mostly to protect the edge of the filler from careless gas station attendants. The bib covers the edge of the filler door so if they are a bit careless when removing the fuel nozzle, they hit the bib, not the paint!


Oh wow yeah that's even worse! Definitely don't want your paint chipped or dented from this kind of carelessness! On the TT I can definitely see that happening too because of the angle the filler door is at and how the body is.


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Have had my fuel cap "leash" (i don't know what to call it...) broken for a loooooong long time now. Was at the wreckers the other day and thought to grab one off a VW. Well.... little did i know how different they could be! 🤣
> 
> 
> THe broken securing piece is easy enough to remove as it was heat damaged and broke off.
> ...


What about a little light sanding on the inside of that plastic ring? Just 0.5 mm or so would do it?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

darrylmg said:


> What about a little light sanding on the inside of that plastic ring? Just 0.5 mm or so would do it?


Well the thing is it's also sitting on top of the cap instead of within the "groove" that allows it to spin. I think if I sand it it'll just fall off. hahaha


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

I swear this was not planned!









In the space of 20 minutes another 2 TT Mk2 show up 🤣 good representation too! 2.0 FWD, VR6 and TTS. ❤


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Good to see it's "inclusive"


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## prefuse07 (Oct 3, 2020)

Ian, your car looks so damn good on those Neuspeeds! 🤤


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Thanks @prefuse07 notamy have them down here so I'm lucky to have picked these up from the 1 supplier of them.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Have been wanting to do this for a while but the TT has always been too encumbered to quickly unpack in case trucks and coaches come along to use the weighbridge. 

























This is the TT3.6 in full trim, fuel tank at about 6/8th's full minus people. Tried to get as even as possible on the weighing pads to get the front and rear measurement "accurate". The weighbridge isn't sensitive enough to measure by the kilo but by 10kilos is good enough!

900kg front
600kg rear
1500kg total weight. 

So 60:40 split as stated in a lot of literature. 

I'd be interested to see the figures for a TT 3.2 - I don't think it'd be much different to the 3.6. If anyone has been on a weighbridge please post up your findings 😊


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

IPG3.6 said:


> Have been wanting to do this for a while but the TT has always been too encumbered to quickly unpack in case trucks and coaches come along to use the weighbridge.
> 
> This is the TT3.6 in full trim, fuel tank at about 6/8th's full minus people. Tried to get as even as possible on the weighing pads to get the front and rear measurement "accurate". The weighbridge isn't sensitive enough to measure by the kilo but by 10kilos is good enough!
> 900kg front
> ...


Still want to do this on my S to see if it's same as quoted book numbers now I've removed and added loads of weight
However most UK ones I've ever seen in posts only do totals!
This is very good to give you the F&R so you know the split!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yeah i got lucky that this bridge has multiple pads. It's meant to lorries with multiple carriages lol


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

That's accurate to 10kg increments and still came out exactly 900 and 600?   Seems slightly suspect to me but even so, gives a useful measurement anyway. 

Yeah I guess we always known the TT is "too front heavy" but them's the breaks on this platform. If you want something better balanced gotta drive a Z4...or a Miata


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

The Mk2 hasn't been getting much attention lately as the Mk1 Desert Green Pearl Roadster but each time i've driven it i notice that the washer bottle warning always bleeps at me. So i went to investigate what's up and needed to change the washer bottle seals. It's not too hard - i probbaly would've made it easier on myself by removing the wheel but i was being lazy.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Good video. But lol I had the same problem and when I went in there to fix it I found no leaks! It hasn't been leaking all this year so fixed magically I guess? When I pulled the liner, everything was bone dry. I even shook the bottle after unbolting, wiggled all the grommets where the pumps go in...nothing. 

I never knew where the water was going to begin with as I never saw any leaks where I parked or in my garage, never felt any wetness around the area...nothing. But it _was_ disappearing on it's own for a while. Then stopped when I finally went to look what was going on 😵

BTW I went to drop off some cardboard at the recycling depot and they weigh your car there (in case you are dropping off garbage which they charge you by the lb or whatever). I forgot to put my damn cart out this week and my recyling box was super full so I just went to drop off all the cardboard to make room. Anyway, the weight on the scale was like 1550kg (~3420lb). I had a full tank of gas and I was in the car and there was a couple paint cans in the trunk at the time too. I guess if you subtract my weight, the weight of the subwoofer, and the paint, probably between 3200-3300lb, which is probably about right I suppose since curb weight is supposed to be 3200lb.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> Then stopped when I finally went to look what was going on 😵


hahaha that is so weird! Maybe you had a little animal somehow sneaking the water out of the bottle when you weren't looking. 



TT'sRevenge said:


> Anyway, the weight on the scale was like 1550kg (~3420lb). I had a full tank of gas and I was in the car and there was a couple paint cans in the trunk at the time too. I guess if you subtract my weight, the weight of the subwoofer, and the paint, probably between 3200-3300lb, which is probably about right I suppose since curb weight is supposed to be 3200lb.


OOOh awesome thanks for the comparison. What engine and drivetrain is your TT again?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> hahaha that is so weird! Maybe you had a little animal somehow sneaking the water out of the bottle when you weren't looking.


Some kind of gremlin alright!



IPG3.6 said:


> OOOh awesome thanks for the comparison. What engine and drivetrain is your TT again?


It's an S, so EA113 2.0T HO w/Haldex. Factory 18" alloys, only other physical difference from stock would be the downpipe which is probably like 2lb lighter than the stock one or something LOL--doubt that's really much difference.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

So I had my HVAC fan stop working completely and instead of buying a 2nd hand one which might just die just as quickly I bought a new one. On inspection the old one has completely rusted on the shaft and no longer turns. 

The replacement is OEM brand and tested it out when installed (took 15 minutes) and I had fans back. Yay! 

Then the next time I went to drive I turned them on. Nothing. Played with the controls a bit and then they kicked in. Yay! (But strange) 

Checked codes in the HVAC and lo and behold.








Now that's telling me it's unplugged. But it's definitely plugged in and tested to work. 

This error comes back each time ignitions cycled. 

Now I'm pretty sure the fans would turn on straight away if left on from the previous drive. Now they seem to be delayed. It takes a couple of minutes before they kick in. The error above is stored with an intermittent text under it too. 

Is it just me or are fans acting strange now?


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Do you have the temp set to something that would stop them kicking in immediately. Eg set to hot but when the engine is cold? As I believe it waits to be up to temp before coming on

But doesn't explain the fault code though. Does it clear fully then? Until next ignition cycle?


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

In anything but "OFF" mode, I think the fan comes on regardless, even if it is at the lowest possible speed (when either heating/cooling is not required or while the car waits for a little bit of coolant temperature before ramping the fan up, if heating is required). Dumb thing about the TT is there is no electronic display to show you where the fan is commanded to, in AUTO mode, like there is in most other Audis. But, never seen the fan turn off while in AUTO mode in my A3 so I'd say it behaves the same way. When you replaced the blower, you replaced the complete assembly, including the resistor pack? If just the blower motor, I think you need to replace the resistor pack/controller as well.

If you did replace both, possible the replacement is flaky...should be covered under warranty though?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

MT-V6 said:


> Do you have the temp set to something that would stop them kicking in immediately. Eg set to hot but when the engine is cold? As I believe it waits to be up to temp before coming on


OH this may be the cause but I'll have to test both hot and cold to know for sure. Thanks for the tip. 



MT-V6 said:


> Does it clear fully then? Until next ignition cycle?


Yep clears till next ignition cycle. Thinking I might need to check the fuse - could be a bit dodge due to the old jammed up unit trying to work but pulling increased load? Dunno why the fuse just don't blow in that case ...


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

TT'sRevenge said:


> If just the blower motor, I think you need to replace the resistor pack/controller as well.


Hey thanks for the info of function on the A3. I have replaced the whole unit which Includes new resistor.

I'll have to test as above and if it's indeed flaky I'll get back to the place of purchase.

Here's the difference between the new and old. It was just a little bit stuck!


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

WHAT...?  No "How to replace the HVAC blower" video...?  So disappointed...


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Was this a difficult job to do? - what’s involved?


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Was this a difficult job to do? - what’s involved?


It's super easy. Glove box off and you're 50% there.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> WHAT...?  No "How to replace the HVAC blower" video...?  So disappointed...


Yeah. So sorry! Right now all the jobs on the Mk2 are just getting done and ticked off. 

The Mk1 is the camera hog these days 😉



Steviejones133 said:


> Was this a difficult job to do? - what’s involved?


As above. 


Glovebox off (5 or 6 small bolts) 
Unplug glovebox light 
Looking up from the floor. Unscrew foam trim cover screw
Unplug dead fan blower motor (tan coloured plug)
Lift the locking tab and twist as if you're unscrewing it.
Fan blower motor is removed. 
Change it out. 

🙌 Very easy job. I did it in 15-20 mins.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

Moved *Steviejones133* conversation to a new thread.... link *here*. Sorry for hijacking your thread Ian!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Now that the barn find Mk1 TT Roadster is finished (and now to be the daily woohooo!!!!) i can revert to giving the Mk2 some love. Today he got a much awaited rear brakes service and and oil / filter change. Along with that I've flushed the brake fluid so all corners are running crystal clear.

The rotors are bought are from a well known Australian based manufacturer DBA who have this "kangaroo paw" internal vane pattern ( can't get more aussie than that!) to assist with cooling. They're a performance style rotor.









The brake pads are Brembo P85073N which happens to come with replacement bolts and brake pad shims.









The old ones (from the AWD swap) were very much due for replacement.









Same with the rotors. That lip is horrendous!









Thebrake rotors were pretty much seized on  I had toget the mini sledge hammer out to bang them off the hub. I made sure to add some anti seize which probably wasn't applied previously.









Unfortunately the brake pad shims were completely wrong. I just cleaned up the old ones that were installed and reused them. 









Winding back the pistons was pretty simple.Brake reservoir cap off, some WD40 on the edge of the piston and rubber boot and in they wound with the clockwise/right winding tool.









Brakes bled and everything cleaned up. They look great in the rear and complement the front slotted setup (althought clearly a different pattern). I was thinking of going 2 piece in the rear but the lead time was way too long! Maybe next time. Rear:









Front:









Brakes feel really good especially after the bleed and brake fluid flush. Looking forward to the next track day / spirited run to bed in the rears!


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Interesting, I bought the same rear pads to do my VR6 soon, just waiting for rear rotors to be delivered (got front rotors and pads ready to do the lot). You mentioned the shims being totally wrong so I popped to get mine…….as I don’t know the size of what’s on there right now, I measured the new ones………

Would they be the same size as the new ones that came with your pads?










The place where I bought mine insisted they were the right pads but I’ve looked on the Brembo website and there are another set which have the same dimensions etc but state for a different PR code.

P85 095 for PR codes 2EA / 2EF / 2EG
P85 073 for PR codes 1KJ / 2EE

Checked my PR codes in service book and mine is 2EF.

I wonder if the difference between the two is simply the size of the shims?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Steviejones133 said:


> Would they be the same size as the new ones that came with your pads?


Yeah looks like they're the same "stubby" size as I got so they won't fit to clear the rotor.




Steviejones133 said:


> P85 095


Looks like these are the ones if the product photos they have is accurate. You can see the gap in the centre is wider that allows it to clear the rotor. Strange they don't list the shim diagram in the Brembo website for these but they do for the P85 073.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Yeah, I compared the Brembo images for the two and the P85 095 look like they have the larger shim…..

P85 073:










P85 095:


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Aha! Gotta keep that In mind for next time! Great sleuthing 🕵


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Sorry for the minor digression of your thread - it’ll be off to the shop for me to get the right ones!


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Steviejones133 said:


> Sorry for the minor digression of your thread - it’ll be off to the shop for me to get the right ones!


All good! Nice to know the proper ones exist and I'm sure other will benefit from it.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Steviejones133 said:


> Sorry for the minor digression of your thread - it’ll be off to the shop for me to get the right ones!


TBH you can usually easily reuse the old ones, just clean 'em up and you are good. 

I think the problem with the wrong guides may be related to the same thing that causes the wrong rotors to be specified by some parts makers (looking at you, Raybestos, lol). The rear brakes "are the same" as the Mk5 .:R32...only they're not. They're the same in that they used the same calipers and pads but there are slight differences otherwise--the rotor sits differently and thus the "hat height" is much deeper on the TT. Subsequently the brackets must be different too, and the places where the little guide bits sit of different widths.

While I can't be sure, I suspect the "wrong"/too-large ones would fit an .:R32 just fine, they just don't fit the TT. This doesn't do anything to help anyone, lol, but explains why they're wrong. It's probably the same reason why if you order rear rotors from some companies for the TT-S (or 3.2L) you get the part for the .:R32, which is the correct diameter and thickness and all that, but completely wrong hat height which won't fit on the TT. 

Anyway these are very minor parts I wouldn't go out of my way to source replacements for if you got the wrong ones--I'd just reuse the existing ones unless they are somehow in _really_ bad shape.


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

I hear ya, Revenge……..I’m just an old fashioned stickler - if I buy something “new” I want all the parts to be new and to not have to re-use old parts, regardless of wether or not the “old” bits can be cleaned up and used again, especially as I’m doing new rotors and pads all round…..it’s just my OCD kicking in 😆

The info from Brembo was correct and I asked for the 095 version but was told I was wrong and that 073 was right. I told the guys that they didn’t match my PR code of 2EF (which was clearly stated on the Brembo website) but they were having none of it……this is clearly the only difference in shim spec, the pads are the same, just different fit for different rotors. Brembo weren’t wrong, the shop was!

I’ll get some satisfaction by taking ‘em back and telling them they were wrong and I was right all along……numpties.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Yep and show them these photos for proof! LOL


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Sexy brake disks 😍


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

My favourite part of the rear rotors is that the non brakinf surfaces are already coated black! 

No ugly rusted rotors for me 🙌


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> My favourite part of the rear rotors is that the non brakinf surfaces are already coated black!
> 
> No ugly rusted rotors for me 🙌


This was something that was important to me, I was fortunate enough to have a forum member gift me a pair of front rotors for postage and some beer tokens - they’re coated like yours. I’m just waiting on rear rotors to match and I’ll be all set to be rust free too 😉

Brembo front rotors


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## Steviejones133 (Aug 18, 2021)

Just thought I’d confirm the difference between the P85 073’s & P85 095’s as the latter arrived this morning - shim appears to be correct with the 095’s on the left……


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