# 180 Quattro Denim Blue - Low Stance Now set up!



## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I just got back into TT ownership just this Saturday. My last TT was a MK2 TT RS which I sold in order to fund a brand new Boxster nearly 1 year ago.

I adore the Boxster but missed some of the attributes of the TT, so I decided to to a cheap and cheerful TT project this summer, with a couple of motives (fun, and as a possible future track car).

I got it at a low price from a nice chap in Berkshire. It looked like this when I picked it up (these are the previous owners for-sale photographs, not mine):










Bodywork is actually pretty presentable....









Except for the off-side side-skirt is bashed up. Luckily the damage is confined to this panel.









The back is pretty neat in Denim Blue (couldn't have hijacked this thread unless it was this colour)







]

The interior needs a major clean, but is very sound apart from some repairable scuffing on the driver's seat bolster:









The car was cheap because it has the following defects:

* ABS and ESP light illuminating shortly after starting the car, and staying on nearly all of the time.
* Damage to off-side (driver's side) side-skirt panel
* Service light illuminated and 2yrs and 10k since last service.

That said, it drove home nicely enough, albeit after a fresh tank of petrol!

I also, since owning the car, have discovered the following issues:
* Silver collar below gearknob broken away from plastic collar
* Slight oil leak from filler area on rocker-box cover
* Bonnet and front bumper alignment poor (especially panel gap between bumper and bonnet way too big). The bonnet also required excessive force on the release lever to open
* Boot spare wheel cover/carpet trashed but functional
* Front outer CV boots split, but still holding grease (just!)

It''s less than a week since I got the car but I've solved all of the above issues now except the CV boots which I wil sort tomorrow hopefully. I've already done an oil/filter change and serviced the engine thoroughly.

I got lucky on ebay and bought a new side-skirt in the right colour, saves me wielding the spray gun this weekend and annoying the Mrs:









The breaker had mullered the bottom flange (where it is schutzed and bolts to the underneath of the cill) a bit removing it, but I managed to straighten it out nicely and get it bolted into the car yesterday, so that was great. No welding necessary, thanks Audi!

The next problem was the ABS/ESP light coming on. The previous owner said he'd had it diagnosed and it was the lateral sensor. I whipped out the VCDS cable and found out it was actually the longitudinal sensor. Same part number, but different location. Lateral is in the steering column and longitudinal is behind the glovebox.

Another 54 pounds on ebay for a second hand unit, and hey presto, no more ABS/ESP light. The systems are now working nicely on a long drive, and I didn't even need to code the new unit. It works great after a plug and play.

I have also clayed the car and done a deep clean on the interior (it had been smoked in) and it's looking really great. Some pics to follow tomorrow hopefully!

I will also get the gaiters changed, and hopefully clean the engine bay and put back the various plastic covers with a nice new stainless steel allen bolt set (thanks ebay again you are the TT's best friend, other than this forum).

More updates to come as I get the car further sorted this weekend.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

It's a nice looking car. Don't give up on it yet!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Don't worry, I've only just gpt started on it! No chance of giving up on it just yet.

I will post some decent pics tomorrow, weather permitting to give a better idea of the condition of it, etc.


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

Hi and welcome. 
If I could give you some advice it is to keep polishing it Denim blue can be a tricky colour to really shine and with most of our motors over ten years old now the paintwork has suffered and dulled. I clearly remember polishing mine after I got it and it looked really good shine but regular polishing will bring the Denim blue paintwork to an amazing shine 









All the best and look forward to seeing what your plans are for the future for this lovely looking TT and in the best colour too 

Paul


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

Yes as Paul's has stated a good going over with a da polisher to remove the swirl marks and when the sun is out a Denim Blue TT's paintwork comes alive.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

At the moment (it's now day 7 with this car) I've only done the following to the bodywork:

* replaced the dented side skirt (can't believe this is a steel panel and not aluminium, but never mind)
* Cleaned it
* Clay barred the body to get back to the paint
* Coated it with Autoglymn HD wax, just as a temporary measure

I've done no correction on the paint at all yet, but it is 13 years old and will require the full DA treatment and cut-back.

The only issue is, I don't know how much of the factory lacquer is left on this motor, and if anybody's been at it before! I don't want to hit it with a DA polisher if the clear-coat is too thin to support this.

I'm off to ebay to look for a paint thickness gauge. Do these things just measure the distance to the metal underneath? Anybody know can I calculate the depth of the clear?


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Nice work good to see another TT being brought back to life


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I've made some more progress on the car. First off, some pictures so you can all see what it's actually like:









It came up okay after a good hand polishing, but I have not yet decided to give it the full DA treatment, until I know how good/thick the clearcoat is on various parts of the car. But in summary, the car looks okay at 13 years of age.










Rear View:









Having got the fun part finished (buffing it over) I set about tidying up the engine bay. When I first got the car, I was dismayed to find that all the under-bonnet trim pieces were literally floating around, not secured to anything. Literally all the clips were lost or broken.

I purchased the stainless steel allen-bolt conversion kit on ebay (I think the vendor is on here but I'm not sure who he is) and sorted it all out, plus had a general under-bonnet clean up. The result is below:



















So all in all, a massive improvement on the anarchy that was there before.

Another job I decided was fairly urgent was replacement of both outer CV boots. Both were badly deteriorated, and one had split at the narrow end where it's held onto the driveshaft by the steel clip. Replacing them was not much of a fun job, as it's dirty and the black Moly grease gets everwhere, no matter how careful you are.

Also, I managed to shear off one of the studs holding the balljoint to the lower arm. This was a pain as it was Bank Holiday Sunday, so I had to end up removing the Balljoint completely and knocking out the stud. I ended up replacing it with a bolt and a nyloc nut I had lying around (luckily).

But booth boots are now replaced, and the car's very happy about it and with fresh helpings of black moly grease in each joint.










So with all that finished, it was time to take the family for a drive. A 30 mile round trip gave no issues at all. I'm definitely getting to grips with this car now, and I feel I can use it reliably at this stage - not bad for a car I've only had just over a week.

So the list at the moment of jobs looks like:

*Jobs Done:*
* Clean and Polish Exterior
* Clean interior and leather
* Replace damaged o/s side skirt
* Replace faulty Longitudonal (ABS/ESP) sensor
* Oil and filter change with 5W30 Mobil1 ESP
* Clean engine bay and install stainless bolt trim retaining kit
* Replace both front outer CV joint boots

*Jobs to Do:*
* Replace front brake discs and pads (inner face too corroded for my liking)
* Replace brake fluid using the VCDS method

*And finally, I'm looking for parts for the following upgrades:*
* 19" wheels and tyres
* Coilovers -or Apex 40mm springs (not sure which yet)


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

You don't hang about


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

YELLOW_TT said:


> You don't hang about


The power of Bank Holiday weekends.............!! Don't expect me to keep this rate of progress up for ever though, the initial surge of enthusiasm is bound to die down a bit soon. At least that's what the Mrs. hopes!

However, as soon as I find some good 18" or 19" wheels and tyres at the right price...


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## ryanmtt (Sep 13, 2010)

Looks a good project, denim blue does come alive in the sun


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Agree totally, the sunshine brings out the beauty of denim blue. Maybe because this is a pearlescent colour, and contains a pearl flip.

However, this is my third Audi with Pearlescent paint (the first was an A4 in Lava Grey, and the second was a TT RS in Daytona Grey) but neither of them popped as well in the Sun as Denim Blue.


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

temporarychicken said:


> *And finally, I'm looking for parts for the following upgrades:*
> * 19" wheels and tyres
> * Coilovers -or Apex 40mm springs (not sure which yet)


I would add some adjustable tiebars to that shopping list.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I think the coilover kit I've selected (FK AK street) contains shorter ARB tie-bars, but they aren't adjustable....


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## Kirbzz_11 (Aug 23, 2012)

temporarychicken said:


> I think the coilover kit I've selected (FK AK street) contains shorter ARB tie-bars, but they aren't adjustable....


ATB's are for rear to correct the negative camber you will get going 40mm or more, replace existing lower arm and adjust with 4 wheel alignment


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Ok, got it, thank. I've seen a lot of lowered TTs with huge negative camber at the back, and I'd like to avoid that. I will do some research into adjustable rear tie bars (ATBs), since it is clearly a prerequisite for the 40mm drop.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

More progress yesterday, before a storm blew in today and spoiled the party...

The headlamp alignment with respect to the body was not great, as was the gap between the front bumper and the bonnet. Also, the UV-protectant coating on the headlamps was badly delaminating, giving a brittle, cloudly surface to them - not attractive.

So I decided to pull the front bumper and headlamps, repolish them, and refit/re-align the front end.










I had no idea that the intercooler was meant to be at that jaunty angle. I thought it was falling off at first! Then I realised that this was by design, and that nothing was wrong.

All the removed components were in great order, with no damage.










And here's the headlamps, mid polishing - an indoor job if ever there was one!










Other good news, the scuffmaster kit arrived from Gliptone, matched to the Black Valcona Leather. Next job will be to recondition the leather.

Also, some 18" QS reps are on their way too, all the way from Scotland. I will hopefully refurb them this weekend and get them on.


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## Inutopian (Apr 14, 2013)

Looking great mate! I'll be watching this one as I have a 180Q in denim blue too, although I've not gotten round to doing nearly as much as I'd planned in the first year of ownership!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Thanks for the positive comments!

The front end is back on now, and the bumper, bonnet, and headlamp alignment is really satisfactory now:





































It just goes to show what a bit of fettling can do. Before I did this the headlamps and bumper looked they had been fitted by a drunken elephant. Now they are back to the quality a TT deserves! The headlamps also look better without the delaminating.

Another job is to repair the few little stone chips towards the bottom of the bumper, that will have to wait until I've ordered some Denim Blue basecoat from Total Concept Paints in Chichester.

Another Job just completed is the seat renovation with Gliptone's Scuffmaster kit. The kit is only 16 pounds, matched specifcally to my colour (Valcona leather, Black, 2001) As usual with Gliptone products, the colour match is perfect and the results speak for themselves:




























So this car is getting done faster than I imagined. Tomorrow the Wheels will hopefully arrive. They will need refurbing, and then I will need to get some coilovers fitted.


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

It's looking well now  Crying out for some nice wheels though!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

You mean you don't like my factory 16" jobs. I'm deeply offended 

Well never mind, since I've bought a set of 18" Quattro Sport copies for £200 from a chap in Scotland. This is his picture, not mine, but they look okay to run for a bit until I can get to repainting them.










If Paisley Freight (the courier I always use to move Alloy wheels around the country) are true to their word then I should have them tomorrow. They have minor kerbing around the rims so will need a refurb, but I can run them as soon as I get them to see how they roll, and what the tyres are like, etc.

Hopefully some pics of the wheels on the car tomorrow or sat!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Got the second-hand QS reps on now. They were actually pretty good, with 3 good Kuhmo tyres, and one budget. The only issue really is there was a lot of corrosion and kerb damage on the outer lips - next to where the tyre fits.

So Rather than get them refurbed professionally, I dediced to turn the TT into a 'lathe' by lifting all four wheels off the ground, and letting the car idle with 6th gear selected.










I then used sandpaper to remove the damage and corrosion from the outer lip.

It took longer to do the rears since they were spinning slower than the fronts, probably something to do with the car thinking it was going at 20mph so the haldex was only partly engaged.


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## Guzi (Jun 13, 2010)

Nice work mate


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## Inutopian (Apr 14, 2013)

temporarychicken said:


> Got the second-hand QS reps on now. They were actually pretty good, with 3 good Kuhmo tyres, and one budget. The only issue really is there was a lot of corrosion and kerb damage on the outer lips - next to where the tyre fits.
> 
> So Rather than get them refurbed professionally, I dediced to turn the TT into a 'lathe' by lifting all four wheels off the ground, and letting the car idle with 6th gear selected.
> 
> ...


that's pretty inventive!  I meant to ask before - what did you use to polish the headlights? Mine could do with a going over, I just never realised it was an option!

Cheers,

Inu


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Actually, polishing the headlights is a long winded job! It takes a lot of sanding and will give you RSI of the wrists.

It's covered bey well (pitfalls and all) over here:

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=649666


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## Inutopian (Apr 14, 2013)

temporarychicken said:


> Actually, polishing the headlights is a long winded job! It takes a lot of sanding and will give you RSI of the wrists.
> 
> It's covered bey well (pitfalls and all) over here:
> 
> http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=649666


Wow, sod that!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

The second-hand QS replicas are "re-machined" around the outer edge of the rims now (I sanded them back to aluminium so nearly all the kerb damage is gone.

They actually look very okay now, although a full-refurb would be necessary to get them truly mint. The tyres all proved to be good, in fact 3 of them are Kumho ecstas with good tread, so very pleased all in all.










There is no loss of comfort at all going from 16" to 18" wheels, I'm pleased to report. The car drives much better on 18" all-round.

To celebrate it's new wheels I gave it a clean, and it looks happier now.










Camera maybe a bit too low on this one....










Taken a bit late in the day, but at least the sun was out.



















The car is now very pleasant to own and use.

However, there are a few jobs left to do:

*Haldex oil and filter
*Thermostat and Oil Filler pipe (car is undercooling ever so slightly)
*Brake fluid change
*Coilovers (I want to get to a nice height for street and maybe track use.
*Touch in stone chips
*New number plates


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## ryanmtt (Sep 13, 2010)

Looks good


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## Volcom (Apr 24, 2014)

temporarychicken said:


> Thanks for the positive comments!
> 
> The front end is back on now, and the bumper, bonnet, and headlamp alignment is really satisfactory now:
> 
> ...


I need to look at the stuff for the seats. Can I ask the pace you got it? And what the hell do you do with it? My seats need a fresh up you see


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## The Blue Bandit (Sep 22, 2011)

temporarychicken said:


> ... So Rather than get them refurbed professionally, I dediced to turn the TT into a 'lathe' by lifting all four wheels off the ground, and letting the car idle with 6th gear selected.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


... loving this thread- and the pace at which you're tackling the resurrection is inspiring ... particularly impressed with your DIY wheel refurb clinic ... :lol:

Keep up the good work and keep us updated.

Steve


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Many thanks for the very kind and supportive comments!

I have ordered a new rear number plate (last of the big spenders) but I am hovering over the buy now button for some FK AK coilovers at 205 pounds.

Coilovers are a 6 hour job start to finish so the question is, will the Mrs let me have the time off?


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

6 hours! No chance! You seem handy with a spanner so buy new top mounts, build the Coilovers up ready then it's a simple swap out. 3 hours max!!

Looks so much better on the 18's


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I still haven't ordered the coilovers yet. I might do that this weekend..

However I've made one more update that cost a grand total of £12.48 I decided to upgrade and modernise the external visual recognition system (rear instance) as the four screws (yes, four!) holding it were rustier than the rear subframe of a classic Mini by the seaside.










It's not the most exciting thing you will read on this forum today, but it does show what a huge difference a decent number plate can make to a car:










Now back to drooling over coilvers and wheel spacers on ebay....


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## Volcom (Apr 24, 2014)

Way better and like you said a nice low cost one.


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## R111TTU (May 15, 2014)

Hey mate. Car looks absolutely fantastic. You sure know what your doing. I just got myself a 2001 denim blue TT 225 for a very good price.

Hoping to get into the mod scene and gain some knowledge from here.

I'm clueless about cars so can't wait to see what I learn.

Keep up the good work.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Great! Another a Denim Blue car into the fold. I look forward to seeing more of your new purchase and your progress!


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

Car is taking shape nicely! Looking forward to seeing the wheels once you get your coilovers on and get them wound down a bit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

The car is now pretty much sorted in terms of the 'rolling restoration'. I now feel it's good enough to be considered up-to-scratch and put to daily use.

So here it is, looking very happy, but a little haughty stance-wise. The family Q5 is standing next to it almost as if it's sharing it's ionospheric ride height with pride and the two are SUV-style friends.










But although the Q5 is comfortable with it's stance and can boast the ability to laugh in the face of our annual floods, the TT deserves better. So finally all my talk about coilovers is done, and I've put my money where my mouth is.

My second actual Mod away from Standard (assuming QS reps. count as a mod) is thusly these:










They were 205 pounds on ebay, including delivery (next day no less) although I won't be able to get them fitted until later in the week probably.

They are the most basic Coilover set that FK make. They boast 30 percent uprated dampers, and springs that retain a certain amount of comfort. The overall drop can be as much as 75mm, although I'm only looking for about 45-50, since mine is an early car (the later ones were 20mm lower to start with - clearly even Audi realised the cars were a bit too high for their own good).

Watch this space for some fitting fun and games, together with a road-test and review of these budget coilovers!


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## ackers (Dec 16, 2013)

temporarychicken said:


> The car is now pretty much sorted in terms of the 'rolling restoration'. I now feel it's good enough to be considered up-to-scratch and put to daily use.
> 
> So here it is, looking very happy, but a little haughty stance-wise. The family Q5 is standing next to it almost as if it's sharing it's ionospheric ride height with pride and the two are SUV-style friends.
> 
> ...


I'm eagerly waiting for the road test. I have been tempted to put my 2001 denim blue on coilovers for a while, now I'm even more interested at that price!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Good news, my coilovers have arrived. The weather, on the other hand, has gone wrong - so I've not set about fitting them as yet, although I have at least had a chance to study them in some close detail.










These are the FK 'AK Street' coilovers, and are the entry-level offering from this manufacturer. I was not expecting anything too fancy, but I am never-the-less very surprised by the build quality on this kit.

The first thing that struck me was how well made the coilover units are. The main body of the strut is zinc-plated, so should hopefully resist corrosion for a couple of winters at least. The piston-rod finish is also very nice and smooth. There are two springs on each coilover strut - a miniature helper-spring and the main coil spring - both are of nice quality and powder coated well in yellow.

The adjustable spring-platform gives 70mm of adjustment, which should be more than enough for my needs. The spring seat platforms are also machined aluminium, and very nicely made, not to mention light-weight. They move easily up and down the threaded portion of the strut body without binding. Also, the rear spring adjuster seats are of similarly well-made aluminium construction. On-car adjustability should be very simple and effective with these units.

The kit also contains shorter ARB tie-bars, and some adjustment spanners for moving the spring seats up and down (not pictured). The rear shocks also are attractively finished in matching yellow and have nice compliant rubber bushes inserted, ready to fit.

Another nice touch is the rear springs have a transparent soft plastic sleeve inserted over the coils that will get bound up when weighted on the car. On other car's I've lowered, this feature has proved very important to keep noise down in the form of squeaks and chatters.










So the build quality is there, especially when you consider that you can buy this kit now for under 200 pounds delivered. The only small negative thing I don't like is there is no 'concertina boot' protecting the piston rod from dirt and weather ingress. I just can't understand why they don't put these on coilovers?

The other issue I've detected, and one that some of the senior members on here (notably Jamman) have mentioned in the past, is that this particular coilover set is not approved by the manufacturer (FK automotive) for use on the Audi TT quattro 8N platform. However, DPM performance of Newcastle, are selling this kit on ebay as suitable for the TT quattro - so I'm greatly hoping it will still fit and work out all-right!

The model number of this kit is actually SMVW9013 - and this is 'officially' for all Golf MK4 vehicles with 4-motion, and does not officially support the TT Mk1 Quattro

So I may possibly face fitment issues, but we won't know until this fecking weather clears up and I can get out to the car to try one of the struts..!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

The rain this evening stopped long enough to get the front two coilovers on the car. A bit of a tough job without a car lift, but do-able none-the-less.

I was concerned as to whether everything would fit nicely, but it all went on very nicely.

Here's a before shot of the 100k miles standard pre-facelift suspension (off-side front)










And some of the coilovers after they are fitted:










And a close-up:










There was no bracket on the new coilovers to take the flexi-brake hose, but luckily it's possible to unbolt the old one from the factory strut and re-use it. Also worth noting are the new, shorter ARB links that came with the kit. Not shown is the original top-mounts, which proved to be in great condition so were re-used.

All in all, I am very pleased with the kit. I set the ride-height to 20 visible threads on the adjuster from the bottom. Once the car was back on it's wheels the front drop was measured to have been around 50mm, just about right for what I was looking for. I eagerly drove the car round the block. Although the rear is still on the standard springs/shocks, I was amazed at the difference in the way the car felt just with the front's done.

The front suspension is now silent! No squeaking, bouncing, or crashing sounds. It feels firm and taut. The speed-humps on my estate were handled very competently, you would hardly have known the car was lowered.

Uneven patches in the road were taken care of better than before, and cornering feels much more precise.

I can only say that so far, I'm really amazed. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the rears on and be able to take it for a longer drive.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

The rears went on pretty easily, with only two interesting parts of the process. The first, was one of my old springs was broken, and you can see the little bit of spring left on the bottom rubber top-hat mounting:










However, this was no issue since I was ditching the spring anyway. I decided to retain both the bottom and top rubber top-hats since they contribute greatly to interior quietness and comfort. The aluminium spring-seat height-adjusters (pictured in an earlier post) were not compatible with the OEM top-hat bush, so I trimmed the 'top-hat' piece off, to leave effectively a flat rubber washer. This worked well, and when I set the whole car back down, the following stance was achieved.










The car is not on a level drive, but these pictures give a good indication despite this.




























This is just the initial 'guesstimate' settings. The front adjusters still have 20 threads (around 25mm to go downwards). The reards are adjusted to as low as they can go, however this is with the rubber top-hat's installed.

It would be possible to go much further on the rears by taking out either one, two, or all three components of the adjuster, should you wish. But in my case the drop is already quite low. I may even come up a bit from where it is now.

I took it for a drive and found ride comfort to be virtually unaffected by the drop, which is around 55mm from standard. Cornering does seem improved, but I've not pushed it today, since the Geometry is totally banjaxed. I will sort out the front and rear tracking tomorrow, and then take it for another drive to see where we are.

Also whilst doing the rears, I could scarcely believe how tiny the rear ARB is. I think that needs to get stiffened up! No wonder TTs have a rep. for understeer with that matchstick controlling the lateral forces on the rear!

More fun hopefully tomorrow, but I can tell you all now that this kit is worth the 200 pounds, any day of the week.


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## mstew (Mar 17, 2012)

Word of advice, you might want to tape up the coils to prevent dirt an grime from clogging up the threads which sets off the corrosion. Also you might want to mock up some sort of boot for the fronts as I wouldn't fancy my chances of some crud ruining the shock absorber seals.

Having said I have seen 'strut socks' which wrap around the struts to prevent this but they're only for the front. I can't comment on performance but they seem a much better alternative to retain adjustability and avoiding warranty claims.

Now you just need spacers  good job though!


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## The Blue Bandit (Sep 22, 2011)

... the 50mm drop really sets off the wheels- and good work on getting them on between downpours! ...

... get some spacers on to push those wheels out and fill the arches and you'll really complete the transformation ...
... the car's really taking shape now- keep up the good work ...

Steve


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

I am really surprised at how low she is sitting at the back with the adjuster ring still in place. The drop would look perfect with spacers. Just seen people fitting those coilovers before and seemed to achieve the drop of yours with the back adjusters not installed.


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

I am really surprised at how low she is sitting at the back with the adjuster ring still in place. The drop would look perfect with spacers. Just seen people fitting those coilovers before and seemed to achieve the drop of yours with the back adjusters not installed.


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## Renegade79 (Feb 26, 2010)

very interesting thread. Well done!!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

The idea of 'coil over covers' is great. I've seen them on ebay for less than 20 pounds a set. After all the hard work fitting these coilovers I will be sure to put these on to protect them from the British winter!

Spacers - definitely! I'm looking to source some spacers plus bolts 20mm for the rear and 15mm for the front, second hand is fine.

If anybody has any such spacers for sale, don't hesitate to PM me.

As always, thanks for the supportive comments folks.
Next jobs:

- find out why the ESP light has come on permanently ( nothing to do with the lowering luckily as it was doing it before intermittently)

- fit the new OEM thermostat

- sort out the front and rear tracking


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

A little bit more progress today. I wanted to tackle the wheel alignment since everything was out of kilter after the coilovers were fitted. Also a problem was the ESP light had come on permanently (although it had been coming on intermittently before the coilovers were even fitted.

I scanned the ABS system using VCDS (I have the full cable version luckily) and found out that the Steering angle sensor had suffered from 'mechanically failure'. I took this fault code description with a pinch of salt - it's an optical sensor, so how it can fail mechanically, I do not know. Anyway, ESP was dead and the light permanently on.

I cleared the fault code, and it came straight back. I cleared it again and it came back, but this time, intermittent. At this point I thought to myself, why not try and re-set it? So I lined up the steering wheel to dead-centre by eye, and ran the procedure. The procedure was successful, and the angle sensor now read 0 degrees. At full right-hand down it was +500 degrees, and at full left-hand down -500. That's got to be spot on I though. Good stuff.

I turned the ingition back on and blow me, the ESP light was gone. Luckily it hasn't come back since.

However, I now realised the since I had the car the steering wheel had not been central anyway. The 12 o'clock position had been getting on for 1 o'clock! This was no problem, as I could sort this and do my front tracking at the same time:










The home-made tracking kit may look Heath-Robinson, but it works beautifully. The car now steers dead straight, with the steering wheel at exactly 12 o'clock, and a tiny amount of toe-in.

I also checked the rear track to see what had happened after the lowering event, but it was still in spec, so I didn't tamper with the adjuster plates.










So the wheel alignment is good now, and the front-camber looks excellent (less than 1 degree negative), especially considering the lowering. The rear camber, however, looks so negative I haven't even dared meaure it. It looks like 3.5 degrees at least - pretty horrible. I need to get something done about this asap...

However, a long test-drive showed the car to ride beautifully, even at very high speed it behaved gracefully. Cornering is really good now. The limit of adhesion has definitely gone up since the lowering and adjustments. It still understeers like a shopping trolley, but hey, it's had no mods to help it in that regard. I think with a set of defcon bushes and a thickened ARB up front, together with getting rid of all the negative camber at the back, this car will never be a tail-happy monster, but at least it could handle neutrally with these mods. So that's where I plan to head in the future.

Also, since fitment yesterday and going shopping with 2 children and half of the contents of the local Sainsbury's in the boot, I noticed the rear rubber pads under the body touching slightly on some speed humps. I will therefore raise the back 5mm tomorrow. But here's how it's sitting now, after 25 miles of varied driving and the chance to bed the new suspension in a bit.










I was going to go out and wind the back up a bit, but now it's raining. Oh well, that's Bank Holidays weekends for you.


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## Malky007 (Nov 18, 2012)

temporarychicken said:


> You mean you don't like my factory 16" jobs. I'm deeply offended
> 
> Well never mind, since I've bought a set of 18" Quattro Sport copies for £200 from a chap in Scotland. This is his picture, not mine, but they look okay to run for a bit until I can get to repainting them.
> 
> ...


Just read your thread, you don't hang about.. I was talking to the guy to buy these alloys when someone bought em.. They look good too!!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Hi Malky,

Yes, I didn't even negotiate, I just clicked buy now at 200 pounds - even at that they were a bargain. I then had them delivered to my home using Paisley freight for only 36 pounds (I live on the South Coast of England).

They just needed some sanding round the edges where they were kerbed, back to bare alloy, and they were fit to go.

Sorry to have pipped you to the post on this one! My honest advice is to broaden your search to the whole of the UK, buy the wheels you want (regardless of location) and use a specialist Wheel carrier service to get them delivered. I've done this three or four times now.

That reminds me, I need to get the old 16" on Ebay now...


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I've not posted on my build thread for a while, but I've been busy!

First off, since I had the car, it very rarely got up to 90 degrees running temperature. It was looking rather cold most of the time. At a constant speed of 55mph, the needle was going down to the mid 70s.

I don't mind visiting the mid 70s when listening to music, but on my TT, I draw the line. I double checked the gauge readings with register 49C on the HVAC system, and it was indeed running super-cool. The only time I'd ever got up to 90 degrees was with the AC turned off (hence no fans running permanently) on a hot day in traffic.

So it was time to do the thermostat. I tried to do the job without disturbing the alternator, but very quickly got fed up with that, and removed the serpentine belt, and undid the two alternator bolts. These bolts are long and I had to remove the Big black vent box next to the serpentine belt.

After the alternator was dropped out of the way, replacing the thermostat was easy. I lost about half the coolant but I let it go and added some fresh coolant/distilled water mixture of the correct type and colour (red in this case).

The old thermostat didn't look knackered, but I guess you can't tell. Maybe the spring goes weak with age?


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So the new, genuine Audi thermostat was fitted, and the car has been on a perfect 90 degrees ever since. The warmup cycle is much quicker now. A real difference has been made to the enjoyment of the car from this repair. I also fixed a broken breather pipe whilst I was in there, so no more hot oil smell in the cabin!

Having done that fun little job I now have the small issue of having reversed into one of those annoying posts they put in car parking spaces. This means a small "spot repair" is necessary to repair the gouge in the bumper. Luckily I already bought half a litre of Denim Blue Pearl basecoat to touch in some stone chips, so I was ready to do a quick repair:

Ouch!

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All filler, no killer:

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The Waitrose Weekend newspaper has suddenly become relevant to my life:

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And a coat of 2K lacquer and it's happy again:


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So with that little drama solved, it's onto some more productive modifications. I decided that the rear ride-height was too low so I brought it up 10mm and put some 15mm spacers on at the same time. This is much more comfortable now, as I'm avoiding the bump stops again during normal driving, but I still don't like the fact that I'm running -3 degrees (yes I measured it) negative camber.

So as advised above, I'm going to get some adjustable tie bars for the back and dial that down to about -1. This will also, I calculate, have the effect of spacing the top of the rear wheel a further 15mm towards the wheel arch, completing the stance nicely, I hope.

The rear spring seats now sport a 12mm ride height increase. The 15mm spacers are on as well:


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One very rewarding job was replacing the boot carpet. I bought a second-hand replacement, sight unseen on Ebay for 20 quid plus 8 delivery. I wasn't expecting much bit it turned out to be a really nice condition used item! The old one looked like somebody had been using it to mix concrete on.

I won't tell you which was the old one and which was the replacement, you can guess I'm sure:


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Now we have a happy boot area, as well:


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So the car's new found state of happiness made me realise that the ARY engine in this car is just not cutting the mustard. It feels slow now, after all these other mods and improvements. In fact I was not sure if it was performing to it's full potential.

First thing in any engine tuning, get a baseline reading. It just so happened that the Boxa.net guys were having a Rolling Road day, so I turned up with the TT instead of the Porsche, much to their surprise.

Normally, you get three or four runs on the dyno, and take the best readings. However after a single pull, my puny single Side-Mounted intercooler had reached the same temperature as the centre of the Sun, and the air-intake temperatures were too hostile to do any more power runs. There is a big fan in the Rolling road centre but clearly it does feck-all for my poor little SMIC. It was the hotteest day of the year as well (typical!)

Despite this, the first dyno run (and only dyno run) showed near enough factory BHP which is fine for running on 95 RON fuel, and a healthy AFR was seen too.


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So the engine is doing what it should, after 102,000 miles, it's now run in and ready for some tuning.

So the first thing is to do some remapping to see if I can unleash some of the latent potential in this car. Stage 1 tunes on these rarely see much above 210BHP, but this is not the whole story. The K03s turbo cannot flow enough to produce big power at high-rpm, it just runs out of puff. However, it's very strong in the midrange around 3.5k RPM, and this is the potential area I want to unlock.

So I downloaded the existing factory map from the ECU and took a look at it. It was definitely stock.


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Here's the LDRXN map, before (yellow) and after tuning (red). I've converted the y-axis to boost in PSI (normally the units for this map are in percentage format). This makes it easier to see what boost I should expect after the remap. This re-mapped red line is set to approximate the flow capabilities of the K03s turbo at different RPM.


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For those that aren't familiar with the intricacies of the Bosch ME7.5 engine management system, the LDRXN map is the map that determines maximum turbo boost on full-throttle acceleration. I also modified some of the other maps for part throttle conditions, but basically a basic Stage 1 tune on this car, designed to unlock mid-range potential.

So the moment of truth now, I flashed the new map back onto the car:


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I am running this car on a tight budget, so all the tools used in remapping this car are free. I was able to use my VagCom cable to do the flashing, which I already had from previous Audis I've owned.

I turned the key, and to my surprise, the car actually started. No checksum errors. No fault codes, no engine management lights. I drove the car on a test drive, and wow, it was like a different car! It drives so much smoother, more tractable. I'm really delighted. Okay, it's still not a track-burning monster but a real difference. Very pleased.

I reckon that if I get a FMIC on this, and some 98 ron fuel, it could Dnyo 215BHP. Heady stuff indeed! But the real gains are in mid-range torque and this make the car so much more fun to actually use.


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## mstew (Mar 17, 2012)

temporarychicken said:


> Hi Malky,
> 
> Yes, I didn't even negotiate, I just clicked buy now at 200 pounds - even at that they were a bargain. I then had them delivered to my home using Paisley freight for only 36 pounds (I live on the South Coast of England).
> 
> That reminds me, I need to get the old 16" on Ebay now...


That's a good buy, I did the same for my r32 wheels, Buy it now price was 150 with good tyres and people were trying to low ball him. The price was good enough to not worry about a tenna, I then sold my 16's for exactly the same as I paid for the new wheels so I was laughing :lol:

Also on the remap front, being a Y reg you'll most likely have a K03 turbo, not a K03s and they max out at around 200. I haven't read the whole thread yet but unless you do indeed have the s version you may be dissapointed. Maybe an excuse to go hybrid... :roll:


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Luckily my car has the ARY engine and is one of the very first 180s with the K03s.

So mytuning ceiling is 230BHP rather than 200.

But it's small potatoes...! You are right, I really need a 280 hybrid! But this turbo alone wont do much since to get even 250 I'd need a host of other mods too!


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## bigcat (Apr 21, 2006)

Funny you say the rear camber looked a bit like 3.5 degrees, I thought that of mine when it was lowered with 25mm H&R springs. The drop was only 20mm but when I measured the camber it worked out at 1.9 degrees on the off side and 1.4 degrees on the near side. I think it looked worse than it was. The toe needs checking so will get that done and adjusted which will probably change the camber at the rear,


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

temporarychicken said:


> I turned the key, and to my surprise, the car actually started. No checksum errors. No fault codes, no engine management lights. I drove the car on a test drive, and wow, it was like a different car!


I hope you did some logging on the test drive to ensure that everything was safe etc?


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

It's funny you should say that..! I did log the test drive results using VCDS on the test drive. I think I logged to many variables however as updates were almost three seconds apart, not really enough granularity.

Here's the results in csv format which is good for excel...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k40kr6xuv4r14kj/LOG-01-015-02C-034-052-064-108-1178-1188-1202.csv

I'm not sure if I really logged anything that useful to be honest, or what I should be looking for to confirm that the tune is in fact successful.

The one thing I did notice from the log is the actual generated boost seems to be falling short of the requested boost, at least according to the VCDS logging. I also paid attention to the one thing I was afraid of (high air intake temperatures, after my issue with intercooler heat soak at the Rolling Road) but this proved to be not a problem on the open road, as you can see below the temps are stable even after the tune.










I think the single SMIC is more of a problem on rolling roads where it gets heat soaked, but it seems to be okay out on the open road air-intake-temperature wise. I'm thinking of upgrading that anyway this week but first things first, get the map right!!!

What exactly should I be logging and looking at to confirm the tune is good and that I'm not running lean on full boost or any other potential nightmare scenario?


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

bigcat said:


> Funny you say the rear camber looked a bit like 3.5 degrees, I thought that of mine when it was lowered with 25mm H&R springs. The drop was only 20mm but when I measured the camber it worked out at 1.9 degrees on the off side and 1.4 degrees on the near side. I think it looked worse than it was. The toe needs checking so will get that done and adjusted which will probably change the camber at the rear,


Yes, TTs don't need to drop much at the back to take on some serious negative camber. When I first lowered mine the drop was somewhere between 65 and 70mm. I measured the camber at the rear to be -3.0 degrees This was way too aggressive for my tastes, so I've bought it up again to somewhere between 50-55 drop from standard.

Even now, the negative camber is still very obvious, especially now with spacers. I don't like the 'collapsed look' so I will be fitting some adjustable tie bars soon. I think you are right in that adjusting one thing (toe) can also affect the other (camber). I've not touched the rear toe-plates yet as it was still in spec after lowering.

Once all the tinkering is finished I will probably go with a pro alignment on a Hunter machine.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

You need to log your timing correction factors,lambda & EGT if you've got a wideband car also MAF figures are useful too.

If it's not making requested boost then you will probably need to adjust other boost related maps too. You need to check your N75 duty too.

If you've not altered your fuelling strategy from standard and just upped the boost and aren't running on VPower or similar then chances are you'll have high CFs.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

How do i measure the N75 valve duty cycle percentage, I can't find it in Vagcom's list...?

Actually, scratch that question, just found the answer right here
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=103768

I'll pop out in the car after dinner and see if I can get some N75 data, and some better boost measurements.


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Forget about the boost for now.

Make sure it's not pulling timing and that it's fuelling correctly before anything else.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Okey dokey, will focus on logging fuelling and timing on the next run. Fundamentals first...

Will report back tomorrow with some proper logs.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Some wheel spacers arrived! In fact four 15mm spacers and longer radius-headed bolts.

Most aftermarket wheels use tapered-headed bolts, but my QS-replicas require radius headed. This makes each spacer kit 8 pounds more expensive on Ebay for some reason? Never mind. Here's some before and after pictures showing the entire transition from when I got the car to now:

The original stance, sporting pre-facelift OEM beach-buggy ride height and mingy 16" wheels.










And now.....



















And to make sure this new stance actually works, and that there's no bumping, rubbing, dumping, squeaking, grounding, or bottoming out, a road test is made over a variety of road conditions, including speed humps and some very uneven country lanes near to where I live.










Luckily, the only event during the test-drive was filling up with petrol (above).

The following mods have been undertaken to get the stance and handling thus-far: FK AK Street height-adjustable coilover kit, 15mm spacers all round, and 18x8 ET33 QS replica wheels and 225/40R18 tyres.

One more mod is needed to finish the job, and that is a pair of adjustable rear tie-bars (ATBs) which will allow me to decrease the negative camber from -3 degrees to -1. This mod will not only improve the balance of the car and make tyre wear even, but will also fill the rear arches by another 15mm since the top of the wheel will poke out nearly as far as the bottom does currently.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

L33JSA said:


> Forget about the boost for now.
> 
> Make sure it's not pulling timing and that it's fuelling correctly before anything else.


I've done a few test runs, including full throttle pulls in second, third, and fourth. I've been logging blocks 2 (general fuel stuff) and block 32 (lambda adaptations for fuel trims).

Here's a graph of the block 2 data. It shows that the maximum airflow according to my MAF is 155 g/s. This should mean I've managed to generate about 193 horsepower, which doesn't sound that great for a stage 1 tune, but of course is only a very rough estimate based on my MAF. The car pulls really well and drives great, however, with a really strong mid-range, and feels better than 193 bhp in any case!










The additive (ilde) fuel adaptation is varying between +0.4% and +0.6% which is fine, but the multiplicative (all other rpm) fuel adaptation has not budged from 0% after 20 or so miles of driving.

This means either that the Tune is perfect for the current weather conditions and doesn't need any adaptation (unlikely), or I've somehow disabled or otherwise rendered ineffective the multiplicative fuel adaptation on my tuned file (much more likely!).

Is there any other reason that could explain why I am not seeing fuel adaptation?


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Can you change your graphs so it shows data on the Y axis & engine speed (rpm) on the X axis.

As I said earlier you need to log CFs as well - block 20.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I'll get another trace, catch block 20 as well, and build a new graph of RPM vs values. Back soon!!


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Some more parts arrived this morning....

A full set of uprated track control-arm bushes, front and rear, in 80 shore-hardness Polyurethane. They come in a choice of colours, I chose red, although black was also avialable.










They are from Ebay directly from the manufacturer (Duraflex) and cost 36 pounds including delivery, which is not bad when you think how much new arms cost. They are not Cookbot/Defcon types, but instead have a slightly different mechanism of uprating on the front bushes.

Whilst the Cookcon/Defbot jobbies have an outer steel sleeve to allow fitment of a smaller OEM pre-recall type bush, these bushes have a much thicker stainless steel bolt collar instead. This will hopefully translate into some good performance on the road.

I haven't rushed into fitting them yet as I need to get a torch-can to burn the old OEM rubber bushes out, and some hammerite to repaint my super-rusty lower arms before re-assembly.

The quality of these looks great - at least as good as the leading Poly bush brands who charge a fortune for their name alone it would seem! Also nice is the front bush is halved. Therefore the entire kit can be fitted without the need for a press and a biggish vice should be ample to get this done. So hopefully an afternoon's worth of DIY....

Famous last words...


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Before I've had a chance to fit the front bushes, some adjustable-rear-tie bars (ATBs) have arrived from a fellow forum member.

After I first lowered the car using FK coilovers, the rear camber was -3.0 degress. This was a shocking amount, so I raised the rear back up 20mm or so, in order to partially negate this effect. However, my ultimate plan is to go lower again, but with the right (non tyre-shredding) camber settings. Here's the car before I started. Even at this height it's pretty knock-kneed, as you can see from the photograph below:










I thought that these would be a nice quick job, and set about fitting them this evening. These particular ATBs came from the USA. It was actually cheaper to import these than pay the Forge Motorsports price of over 300 pounds a pair.

The first job was to get the rear high enough to get under and do the work. This was a pleasure on such a nice day:










Getting the old tie bars off after 13 years of being happily on the car is a bit of a swearing job. You even have to undo one of the diff-carrier mounting bolts to allow withdrawal of the tie-bar inboard through bolt. Never mind, it's all on the deck now, and it's possible to compare the OEM piece with the US-import ATB:










We can see that the new bar has plenty of adjustment to make itself longer than the original. The inboard end seems to be a rather unusual (in this country at least) setup of a nylon head, with a rubber bush inserted, surrounding a 'yo-yo shaped' stainless steel collar. This collar was about 1.5mm too wide to fit into the diff carrier. I had to grind it down a bit on each side before it would slide in. Major PITA but it's a good job now.

On the plus side, the outboard ends fitted like a glove to the hub-carrier assembly. Also, the adjustment is really nice. The centre rod has flats built into it's tubular construction. The outboard threaded rod is right-handed, and the inboard threaded rod is left-handed. By simply rotating the centre-rod you can adjust the rear-camber - Sweet!










So I set it up in guesswork mode with an equal number of threads exposed each side, and dropped it to the deck.










The camber is much better, ie, down to less than -1 degree, but shock-horror, the ride height has climbed substantially! How the heck has that happened - I've not adjusted the rear spring height? I've now got a significant wheel-arch gap again! Also new is the top of the rear-wheel is now poking out of the wheel-arch slightly, due to the almost vertical camber.










The stance as it is after the install below - not quite what I'm after, but a step in the right direction. With some adjustments the the rear-spring height, rear toe, and ATBs themselves I am confident I can refine the stance to perfection tomorrow.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I had the chance to tweak the rear-end, and ended up adjusting the rear springs to the minimum height (with the adjusters themselves still in place), and the ATBs set to 1 degree negative camber.

It took a bit of fiddling, especially without a pit or ramp to help making adjustments whilst the car was on the ground. The end-result looks okay though, I think. The idea was a good height to maximize performance without compromising comfort or geometry, and of course no rubbing or grounding under any circumstances!

I think the final result is okay:





































Just to recap, the parts used to achieve this stance are:
* FK AK Street Coilover Kit for Golf MK4 4-motion
* US import adjustable rear tie-bars (not sure of the brand as bought from an Ebay member. Very nice kit though overall for the price)
* 15mm spacers and longer radius bolts all-round

So in all, the stance has set me back a shade over 400 pounds. In terms of bang-for-buck, I don't think that's too bad, and the car drives beautifully on it.


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

I think you hsve achieved the perfect stance, spot on 8)

Paul


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Thanks for the kind comments Paul. What the pictures don't show is me struggling under the car on a scorching Saturday trying to get a spanner on the flats of the ATBs, on a car that's already 50mm lower than stock!


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## BaueruTc (Aug 21, 2011)

That stance looks perfect now. I was in the same boat as you. Was happy with the height at the rear with my lowering springs, Once i fitted Forge Tiebars and had them set up the back of the car shot upwards again  .

Your car is coming along nicely though! 8)


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Yes I was most surprised that the ATBs raised the ride height when dialling out the camber.

After I sat down and thought about it, it makes sense as there is a 'twist' in the rear trailing arm and spring platform when lowering springs are initially fitted without ATBs . This twist is dialled out when the upper tie bars are replaced with adjustables, which actually levels out the 'twist' so the bottom spring seat is horizontal again, but also making the ride height a few mm higher at the same time.

The solution to this could be to fit the adjustable tie bars to replace the lower bars, instead of the uppers. This way you could dial out the camber by shortening the lower bar instead of lengthening the upper one. The effect on camber will be the same, the only differences will be to ride-height (lower instead of higher), the rear track will be more towards neutral or toe-out, and the poke will be much less.

My theory is as follows:

ATBs on the upper arms: Wheel Poke=further outwards, rear track=more toe-in, ride-height=raised
ATBs on the lower arms: Wheel Poke=same as stock, rear track=same as stock, ride-height=lowered

Therefore, if I was to swap my ATBs over to the bottom arms, I could maybe get even lower with the rear spring-adjusters still in situ, and less extra toe-in, but I would end up needing a really fat spacer (25mm or more) to get the same overall stance. This will of course add weight and wheel bearing stress. However the tyres will likely wear beautifully evenly this way round.

So it's a compromise at the end of the day, but most folks seem to fit the ATBs to the upper arm. It didn't occur to me to put the bars on the bottom until after I finished the job!


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

Height looks spot on.

Hows the logging coming on?


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Thanks very much Lee! Logging is still a work in progress for two reasons. The first is that I've been fiddling with the rear suspension, but the second is that I read somewhere on here that I need to ideally swap to super-unleaded before I take the next set of logs, so I'm using up the current cheap fuel and am then going to fill with V-power Nitro and take the next set of logs, including all the adaptation values..


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

That would depend on if you were intending on running super unleaded all the time.....which for the record ideally you should be.


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

I read on this forum somewhere (think it was a Wak post) that the TTs are designed for 98 RON Fuel and as such, UK models can suffer from a 10 BHP reduction if running on 95 RON unleaded. My other car is a 1yr old Porsche Boxster, and the use of 98 RON makes no difference to the performance whatsoever.

If it really is -10 BHP on a TT engine (mine's the ARY model) then I am happy to use the good stuff as my car needs every BHP it can lay its hands on!


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## L33JSA (Jun 30, 2010)

If a car has been mapped to run on 97ron (like the standard tt) and you then run it on 95ron then it will retard the timing to compensate for the lack of octane.......and yes it can make a substantial difference. Logging the car on 95ron and then on decent fuel will show you the differences.


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## shaunhutchinson (May 26, 2014)

temporarychicken said:


> The rears went on pretty easily, with only two interesting parts of the process. The first, was one of my old springs was broken, and you can see the little bit of spring left on the bottom rubber top-hat mounting:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Upto now I have avoided a big drop, but it looks cool on your car.


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