# Audi TT by _Dejan_ (Stage 3 = 340 HP)



## _Dejan_

Hi,
Im Dejan and I come from Slovenia. My previous car was a Fiat Stilo (1.9JTD 160HP/360Nm) and now I'm a new owner of a used Audi TT mk2. I don't know how I will modify this car, but I think less than previous (Previous project can be see HERE).

Car is Audi TT MK2 2.0(FWD) S-Tronic MY2007

Ok I will stop talking and show some pictures of my car 


















































Rear badges are removed and pictures has been made before removing...

This are winter alloys:









First Im make remap...

Original:









Remapped:









Then Im change air filter...

Original:









New One(BMC Panel Filter):



























And Spark Plugs to colder(NGK Iridium BKR8EIX):


















Last mod which Im makd(Until now) is installing "Lower Engine Mount Insert" 
Packed:









Lets look what is inside:

















Car is lifted:









Motor protection and screw is removed, mounting location is clean:

















Im use the supplied lubricant and easy push it into the hole, tighten the screws well ... And now I enjoy the ride


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## jays_225

nice car, welcome to the forum!


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## Hoggy

Hi Lovely *colour*, but summer wheels not for me & spoil the look..
Hoggy.


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## _Dejan_

Hoggy said:


> Hi Lovely *colour*, but summer wheels not for me & spoil the look..
> Hoggy.


I have plan change them for 18" next summer...


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## Hadaak

Hi Dejan. Nice car  Time for some serious CarPc now  check out my TTPc thread


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## Danielle57

Yay! Red audi friends!! Yours is the same as mine!

But I was looking at your readings on the rollers and is that right it only got 183bhp without the map? Is it the 2.0t 200bhp?

I ran mine on the rollers last weekend and she is totally standard I ain't done anything to her and she got 210bhp! (Not sure where the extra 10 horses come from)

I'm curious as I'm getting mine mapped soon.. Which company did you use?

Thanks,

D x


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## TT-driver

Nice one!


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## _Dejan_

Danielle57 said:


> Yay! Red audi friends!! Yours is the same as mine!
> 
> But I was looking at your readings on the rollers and is that right it only got 183bhp without the map? Is it the 2.0t 200bhp?
> 
> I ran mine on the rollers last weekend and she is totally standard I ain't done anything to her and she got 210bhp! (Not sure where the extra 10 horses come from)
> 
> I'm curious as I'm getting mine mapped soon.. Which company did you use?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> D x


Hi Danielle,
Each dyno show different results... My car stock show 183HP on whells and is 2.0TFSI 200HP version(BWA engine). Remapped show 209HP which is cca. 25HP difference. Remaped file has been made by Portugal Chip tunning company Im also try remap by one slovenian company but it produce 195HP.
With DSG is hard to make accurate dyno reading and as Im contact few company's which have dynos in our country them mesaure acceleration and then is power calculated from acceleration...
In next few months I have plan to do custom DSG upgrade but I don't know if all what I want is possible:


> - Increase Torque limit to 500Nm or more
> - More clutchs pressure
> - Eliminate all Low Speed quirks (False neutrals, slow reponse time, DSG lag from a stop, low gear choices, etc. etc.)
> 
> S-Mode:
> - New Redline Set
> - Automatic shift point increased to 7000rpm
> - Launch control set to 3700rpm
> - Better shift speed
> 
> D-Mode:
> - New Redline Set
> - Automatic shift point increased to 6800rpm
> - Better shift speed
> 
> M-Mode:
> - No Auto Kick down or up shifting at redline
> - Launch control set to 4000rpm
> - Better shift speed
> - Increase paddle response


After DSG upgrade mesauring will be easy as with manual, because there will not be kick down and automatic up shift...


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## Hadaak

where are you getting this DSG info from?
Mine is suffering from some of the problems listed but I don't think I can go as far as remapping it


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## _Dejan_

Im not shure but I think REVO, APR or some other company make prety same changes when you make DSG Update.
As Im reading on forums a lot of things can be changed with DSG upgrade and Im put together what can be done and create this list of things which I want change with DSG Upgrade  I must send them to company which will make me DSG upgrade if they can make all what I want  I hope 

Im reduce moving from stop lag with Powerflex Insert also some other things like:
-When I'm stopped at the crossroads and I put from N to P I don't feel anymore the gear-change
-When stopping it nicer change gear from 2. to 1.
-Gear changes during acceleration are more defined


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## TT-REX

hey what does ur last mod does Lower Engine Mount Insert?


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## McKenzie

I'm quite surprised at the low BHP figures. Normally I would expect 235bhp minimum from a map, obviously different figures will vary on various dyno's but still that seems a little low. I see you have put in the NGK "8" plugs, I would advise against these as the spark does not get hot enough to burn some of the carbon deposits off. I had them on my 270BHP 2.0tfsi and the plugs looked like this after 4,000 miles-










If you had a bigger turbo putting out 350-400BHP they might be needed but after trying myself they just don't work in smaller turbo 2.0tfsi engines.



TT-REX said:


> hey what does ur last mod does Lower Engine Mount Insert?


It reduces the amount of engine sway which in turn is supposed to help traction and give a better feel to the car. Worth doing for the price as makes a nice difference.


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## Hadaak

_Dejan_ said:


> Im reduce moving from stop lag with Powerflex Insert also some other things like:
> -When I'm stopped at the crossroads and I put from N to P I don't feel anymore the gear-change
> -When stopping it nicer change gear from 2. to 1.
> -Gear changes during acceleration are more defined


Did the powerflex insert help with this !!!!
I feel a lag from N to D and a hear a noticeable cluch change from 2 to 1 or 3 to 2 when stopping.


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## _Dejan_

Hi McKenzie,

Chiptuning company has recommend me that I change spark plugs to colder because map have increased turbo boost and ignition timings ... I will check after 3k km how look spark plugs and put back old ones(which have done around 2k km)...
About dyno I don't know what is wrong that here is only 25HP difference but when I drive it is huge difference...
Im make some road mesaurement with Phone(Android) + ELM327 BT + Torque application but I think they are not accurate. 
Stock:









Remaped:









I must change tyres because 1., 2. and 3. gear if I floor gas pedal allways turn on ASR light 
I must make also acceleration mesaurement with VAG-COM but first must figure out how


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## _Dejan_

One week ago Im buy new exhaust for my car. Im buy Bastuck TT/8JT-Q76E which is quad exhaust and have EC certificate...

First it was necessary to look at what Im bought 

















Then it was necessary to cut a hole in the back diffuser (Later I will make/buy carbon diffuser so this is a temporary solution):









Original exhaust silencer:









And let's cut it 









And install a new one:

















Tomorrow Im going to approval office and I have to fix diffusor (little increase hole)...


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## _Dejan_

McKenzie said:


> I'm quite surprised at the low BHP figures. Normally I would expect 235bhp minimum from a map, obviously different figures will vary on various dyno's but still that seems a little low. I see you have put in the NGK "8" plugs, I would advise against these as the spark does not get hot enough to burn some of the carbon deposits off. I had them on my 270BHP 2.0tfsi and the plugs looked like this after 4,000 miles-


In last 2000km Im put my car two times(at cca. 4400rpm) in limp mode(no power) when Im drive on high road in manual mode in 6th gear with speed around 100km/h and press acceleration pedal... Im decide to make some mesaures with VAG-com and Im find that my HPFP do not work as must. Pump at 4000rpm output around 40bar less than requested, max difference is at 3300rpm which is 44bar...
Car have 83000km and I don't know if cam follower has been changed...
Im already buy new HPFP, Cam Follower, Autotech HPFP Upgrade Kit, RS4 PRV and I will install it next week...
I have plan change also downpipe to some with sport cat but don't know which one. I think I will buy B&B(Billy Boat) which is same as APR one...

Here is log from VAG-com:


Code:


RPM;Rail Pressure - (specified);Rail Pressure - (actual);Rail Pressure - (Difference)
1520;66,63;67,08;-0,45
1600;68,65;67,96;0,69
1680;68,36;68,67;-0,31
1760;71,11;71,25;-0,14
1840;73,28;72,57;0,71
1520;70,42;70,35;0,07
1440;73,16;75,35;-2,19
1520;75,49;77,3;-1,81
1640;81,55;80,91;0,64
1760;87,67;87,15;0,52
1920;93,67;92,7;0,97
2120;99,2;98,85;0,35
2320;103,32;101,68;1,64
2520;106,36;102,11;4,25
2680;109,59;110,01;-0,42
2920;109,97;96,52;13,45
3120;109,99;74,65;35,34
3360;109,99;65,7;44,29
3560;109,99;99,05;10,94
3760;109,99;112,11;-2,12
3920;109,99;90,02;19,97
4120;109,99;73,2;36,79
4320;109,99;77,91;32,08
4520;109,99;87,38;22,61
4720;109,99;93,98;16,01
4880;109,99;99;10,99
5040;109,99;104,19;5,8
5160;109,99;111,75;-1,76
5320;109,99;109,18;0,81
5440;109,99;110,65;-0,66
5600;109,99;111,07;-1,08
5720;109,99;111,22;-1,23
5880;109,99;113,37;-3,38
6000;109,99;112,33;-2,34
6120;109,99;103,02;6,97
6200;109,99;110,45;-0,46
6320;109,99;109,35;0,64
6400;109,99;109,84;0,15
6360;109,99;112,04;-2,05
5040;100,9;99,51;1,39
4880;98,71;98,6;0,11


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## Patrizio72

Danielle57 said:


> Yay! Red audi friends!! Yours is the same as mine!


I love red too!


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## robokn

I really doubt the FP or the injectors are the issue, a HPFP is not the answer I would be going back to the tuner


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## _Dejan_

robokn said:


> I really doubt the FP or the injectors are the issue, a HPFP is not the answer I would be going back to the tuner


Fuel pressure requested by remap is stock. Tune file do not request more fuel as original map. It is not problem in HPFP but problem is with cam follower(Which is known issue for this engine) and as I know it has not be changed in 83000 km(It is not specified on none of invoices)...


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## McKenzie

The Cam follower would be an issue if you had upgraded internals of the HPFP but you don't currently. The car would misfire and have flat spots in the map if the cam follower was surging the fuel pump so I'm unsure if this is entirely to blame. I have done 64,000 miles and still or the original cam follower, I will change it soon however.

I couldn't see your log's but something sounds quite poor is map is requesting 40bar less! If you are upgrading the HPFP, RS4 PRV and cam follower it's worth waiting to see the outcome. You will then know if your problem is hardware or software related. Presumably you will be going back to get the map tweaked since you are upgrading the hardware?


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## _Dejan_

McKenzie said:


> The Cam follower would be an issue if you had upgraded internals of the HPFP but you don't currently. The car would misfire and have flat spots in the map if the cam follower was surging the fuel pump so I'm unsure if this is entirely to blame. I have done 64,000 miles and still or the original cam follower, I will change it soon however.
> 
> I couldn't see your log's but something sounds quite poor is map is requesting 40bar less! If you are upgrading the HPFP, RS4 PRV and cam follower it's worth waiting to see the outcome. You will then know if your problem is hardware or software related. Presumably you will be going back to get the map tweaked since you are upgrading the hardware?


Im pretty shure that it is hardware related, but I will test again with stock map when we will not have snow on roads 
Map do not request 40bar less than stock. It request same as stock but actual pressure jumping up and down... For example:
1.) At 2680rpm map request 109,59bar and actual pressure is 110,01bar THIS IS OK
2.) At 2920rpm map request 109,97bar and actual pressure is 96,52bar THIS IS NOT OK because actual is 13,45bar less than map request
3.) At 3120rpm map request 109,99bar and actual pressure is 74,65bar THIS IS NOT OK because actual is 35,34bar less than map request
4.) At 3360rpm map request 109,99bar and actual pressure is 65,7bar THIS IS NOT OK because actual is 44,29bar less than map request
5.) At 3560rpm map request 109,99bar and actual pressure is 99,05bar THIS IS NOT OK because actual is 10,94bar less than map request
6.) At 3760rpm map request 109,99bar and actual pressure is 112,11bar THIS IS OK
...
And between 4k rpm and 5k rpm actual pressure again fall down for 20-40bar...

When car lose power I get only this error:


Code:


000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low 
               P0087 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100010
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Mileage: 83303 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2012.12.01
                    Time: 13:13:42

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 4578 /min
                    Load: 96.0 %
                    Speed: 125.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 90.0°C
                    Temperature: 19.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 970.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 13.843 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


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## McKenzie

Yeah that does look like it's acting quite rough. I find my pressure request is almost identical to what yours is:

Specified T/S Actual
100.71	10.23	101.03
104.57	10.63	104.22
108.77	11.05	107.97
109.86	11.46	110.31
109.98	11.86	108.81
109.99	12.25	111.39
109.99	12.67	109.32
109.99	13.06	109.75
109.99	13.5 110.22
109.99	13.92	109.09
109.99	14.31	109.57
109.99	14.74	110.89
109.99	15.14	110.6
109.99	15.56	110.86
109.99	15.97	108.94
109.99	16.36	110.19
109.99	16.77	110.07
109.99	17.17	110.27
109.99	17.63	109.46

Middle number is the time stamp. And the start of that is 1,760RPM and the end is 5,500. It may be just that your cam follower is not helping retain pressure but if this is the case then it needs changing ASAP and if it fails your in some trouble! Hopefully it is something as simple as this. The RS4 valve wouldn't make much difference unless you remap to use a higher pressure of 120 bar or more, crack pressure is 130 bar. Seems 109.99 is a ingrained "safe" limit.


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## _Dejan_

Im think that maybe can be also something wrong with N276 valve(leaking or something like that), but as I know then it will throw some other error(P2293)...
Yes I know that I must change it ASAP but Im waiting parts(Already ordered) and also know damage which can be done...
Your Specified vs. Actual pressure looks ok  
I think that RS4 valve will help with Stage 2+ but not much... I think that difference will not be big but maybe noticeable... 
Also I think that this HPFP problem has been here from when Im buy car(6000km before) and didn't feel what power car must have but jump from Stock to Stage 1 has been bbig so I think jump from Stage 1 to Stage 2+(And normaly working HPFP) will be bigger 
I will report how car feel after fix/upgrade and whn stop snowing


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## _Dejan_

One week ago Im receive new HPFP, Autotech Upgrade kit, Cam follower, RS4 PRV and build all together and install it in car...

New OEM HPFP:









New OEM RS4 PRV:









All items on desk(Except Cam follower):









It is time to change internals in OEM HPFP so first we need remove stock internals:









And put inside new Autotech internals:









Then use original spring and new spring retainer:









New upgraded HPFP ready to install:









First Im prepare protective equipment:









Then Im remove HPFP fuse and "release pressure fuel" ...

Left new one right old one:









Then Im check and replace cam follower(Left old one right new one):









And new HPFP Installed:









RS4 PRV I didn't install because looks to complicated and I don't have tools to do it 

Now I waiting for new B&B (Billy Boat) downpipe with sport cat, which is same as APR one and then I will make Stage 2+ remap


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## _Dejan_

Im also measure rail pressure before and after modification...
Blue curve is what ECU request, red curve is what is actual pressure...

Before upgrade:









After upgrade:


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## liffy99

I'm no expert but didn't the dyno plots show 'wheel HP' which will always be lower than that at the crank due to friction losses (less on a 2WD). Which would make the results more realistic ?


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## _Dejan_

liffy99 said:


> I'm no expert but didn't the dyno plots show 'wheel HP' which will always be lower than that at the crank due to friction losses (less on a 2WD). Which would make the results more realistic ?


Yes my dyno plots are "wheel HP" but I think still little less powerfull as must be


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## kakluote

did u upgrade to stage 2+?

how is it?


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## _Dejan_

kakluote said:


> did u upgrade to stage 2+?
> 
> how is it?


Not yet. I waiting for B&B downpipe which I will receive I think in next 14-21 days because it is in production and also need few days to come from USA


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## kakluote

currently i am using apr stage 2+ without hpfp files

i'd like to know if there is big diferent with stage 2+ w/ hpfp


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## _Dejan_

kakluote said:


> currently i am using apr stage 2+ without hpfp files
> 
> i'd like to know if there is big diferent with stage 2+ w/ hpfp


Stage 2+ is remap with Upgraded HPFP optimization, Stage 2 is same without HPFP. So if you don't have "HPFP optimized" software you are on Stage 2 and not Stage 2+


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## kakluote

_Dejan_ said:


> kakluote said:
> 
> 
> 
> currently i am using apr stage 2+ without hpfp files
> 
> i'd like to know if there is big diferent with stage 2+ w/ hpfp
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 2+ is remap with Upgraded HPFP optimization, Stage 2 is same without HPFP. So if you don't have "HPFP optimized" software you are on Stage 2 and not Stage 2+
Click to expand...

but according apr software list there is indeed a 2+ without hpfp....


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## kakluote

a question about autotech kits

any risk or dangerous that using this kit instead of a apr hpfp ?

for example, oil leakage ?


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## robokn

I would go for a LOBA pump cheaper than the APR one and better designed, they make them for a lot of places but are bound by non disclosure agreements so you can imagine that they are of a decent quality, which is why I am getting one

http://www.loba-motorsport.com/shop...2.0-tfsi-high-pressure-fuel-pump-upgrade?c=47


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## kakluote

can i use 3rd hpfp with apr software?


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## robokn

Sorry what 3rd HPFP the LOBA one makes no difference what one you use with any software


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## _Dejan_

kakluote said:


> but according apr software list there is indeed a 2+ without hpfp....


I don't know how APR list Stages but all other company's list needed hardware for stages like this:
Stage 1: No need any modifications.
Stage 1+: Upgraded HPFP
Stage 2: Downpipe with sport cat or decat
Stage 2+: Downpipe with sport cat or decat, Upgraded HPFP
Stage 3: Downpipe with sport cat or decat, Upgraded HPFP, Bigger Turbo(K04, GT28RS, GT3082R, GT3071R...)



kakluote said:


> a question about autotech kits
> 
> any risk or dangerous that using this kit instead of a apr hpfp ?
> 
> for example, oil leakage ?


APR is already builded, Autotech is for rebuild and you must rebuild it yourself. I recommend install it in brand new pump...

P.S. My downpipe is finished and I will have it in the middle/end of next week


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## kakluote

_Dejan_ said:


> kakluote said:
> 
> 
> 
> but according apr software list there is indeed a 2+ without hpfp....
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how APR list Stages but all other company's list needed hardware for stages like this:
> Stage 1: No need any modifications.
> Stage 1+: Upgraded HPFP
> Stage 2: Downpipe with sport cat or decat
> Stage 2+: Downpipe with sport cat or decat, Upgraded HPFP
> Stage 3: Downpipe with sport cat or decat, Upgraded HPFP, Bigger Turbo(K04, GT28RS, GT3082R, GT3071R...)
> 
> 
> 
> kakluote said:
> 
> 
> 
> a question about autotech kits
> 
> any risk or dangerous that using this kit instead of a apr hpfp ?
> 
> for example, oil leakage ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> APR is already builded, Autotech is for rebuild and you must rebuild it yourself. I recommend install it in brand new pump...
> 
> P.S. My downpipe is finished and I will have it in the middle/end of next week
Click to expand...

waitting for your feeling of stage 2 and 2 +, big different?

i talk with apr ,they said i must use apr fpfp if i use apr stage 2+ [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## _Dejan_

I still waiting my B&B downpipe but DHL say that I will receive it tomorrow  
Im also buy 70mm mid pipe, clamps and OEM gasket  So I will have full exhaust 70mm and downpipe 76mm









Also here is one winter picture when today fall aditional 10-15cm snow


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## _Dejan_

Today Im receive downpipe 
Pictures say more than words...










































200-cell metal high flow catalyst:

















Clamps&reducer which came together with downpipe:


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## _Dejan_

Today Im install downpipe 

First Im remove original downpipe, mid pipe and exhaust...
Then Im instal new gasket(Original Audi) and new downpipe:

















Of course, not everything goes smoothly but in the end we successfully install it... 

































Now I must upgrade ECU for Stage 2+ mods... The difference in sound is significant


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## _Dejan_

Im make one quick movie to see acceleration of my car(2 different tests):


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## _Dejan_

Today Im do DSG Remap and little optimizations to ECU 

We get this(Blue old remap, red new one):









6. gear 100km/h -> 290km/h





DSG Remap:


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## _Dejan_

I see that I didn't show my summer alloys which I have on car few months


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## _Dejan_

Today's a sunny afternoon I spent on painting brake calipers 
First Im paint rear:








And then front:








The final product of my work looks like this


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## _Dejan_

Few weeks ago Im make service on car and also change front brake discs and all brake pads. Im accepted the decision that I will buy and try EBC Ultimax brake discs(USR1386) and EBC Redstuff brake pads(DP31945C and DP31518C). I don't know how this combination work because Im still in break in period... I know that when I drive 10-30km/h and slowly brake I don't have anymore sqeaking breakes  sometime I get some quick noise but can't repeat it when I want  With original Im repeat squeaking on every stop  also I hope that I will get less dust on my alloys 

Few pictures:

















































yes I know that calipers are not clean 









After few days of usage and cleaned alloys:


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## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> _Dejan_ said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im reduce moving from stop lag with Powerflex Insert also some other things like:
> -When I'm stopped at the crossroads and I put from N to P I don't feel anymore the gear-change
> -When stopping it nicer change gear from 2. to 1.
> -Gear changes during acceleration are more defined
> 
> 
> 
> Did the powerflex insert help with this !!!!
> I feel a lag from N to D and a hear a noticeable cluch change from 2 to 1 or 3 to 2 when stopping.
Click to expand...

Hadaak, did you do this lower engine mount mod?


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## _Dejan_

This project is not dead  I have plan put Hybrid K04 on it. I already have it at home with injectors and other parts... But before I must do all supported mods... New intake I already have fitted, now waiting for intercooler...
Here are some pictures of new intake 

Box received and opened 









Pipercross air filter 









And intake parts:



























One picture how look engine bay before upgrade:









And new one


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## Ciano91

Nice build


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## Bowerz

Impressive! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!


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## _Dejan_

I can't wait to put bigger turbo on it 
currently I waiting some parts from HG-Motorsport which are currently in production  and new bigger intercooler  
In november I have plan put K04 on it and make custom remap for it...


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## _Dejan_

It's time to show some progress 

Collecting parts in my working room:









Brushes for intake valve cleaning:









Injector tools:









It's time for bigger intercooler 




































And hoses shipped together with intercooler:


















Hose to connect DV Intermediate Flange:









Im buy from HG-Motorsport PCV Fix valve:


















Original PCV:









Removed original PCV:









Installed PCV Fix:


















Im also get HG-Motorsport K04 Turbo Outlet:


















This is original one:


















S3 Pressure Pipe:









S3 Air Pipe:









This is all for now. I still waiting some items which I will receive in week or two


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## _Dejan_

Because Stage 2+ is not enough Im make on my car Stage 3 

First Im find garage and park car 









Then Im change intercooler and silicone hoses:


















Im also buy Forge Motorsport Throttle Body Hose:


















And buy "new" Throttle Body Motor(done 2500km) because old has sometime generate error:









Then Im take down intake manifold and clean intake valves...

Before:









After:









Before:









After:









Then Im protect holes, rebuild S3 injectors(change seals) and install them:


















This time Im also install RS4 PRV:









Im put all together and start changing turbo... 
Turbo prepared to install:









And installed:









Im make DV relocation harness to extend original cable:









Cam follower after 30k km on Stage 2+ last time to replace them: 









Car already run, Im flash ECU with S3 injectors file but on tuesday I will visit company to make dyno tests and real remap...


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## V6RUL

Nice progress, good luck with the tune.
Steve


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## _Dejan_

I have been on dyno(We make 53 runs) to get best remap and most HP from car. We have stuck at 340HP and nothing doesn't help increase it. We are limit torque so this is not max what turbo can do because I don't want broke DSG...
This is what we get(red curves are Stage 3, blue are Stage 2+):


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## UMZ

Nice thread, enjoyed your journey so far. I bet that pulls hard!! I'm going to miss my TT


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## ollierico

Awesome work !


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## tdi_van

_Dejan_ said:


> Remaped file has been made by *Portugal Chip tunning company *Im also try remap by one slovenian company but it produce 195HP.


hello there, it was made by Miguel from MB power?


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## _Dejan_

tdi_van said:


> _Dejan_ said:
> 
> 
> 
> Remaped file has been made by *Portugal Chip tunning company *Im also try remap by one slovenian company but it produce 195HP.
> 
> 
> 
> hello there, it was made by Miguel from MB power?
Click to expand...

No has been remaped by some other tunner, but we found that there has been some mistakes in high range rpm with high power drop...


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## _Dejan_

Im make regular service on my car  Im change engine oil&filter, DSG oil&filter and pollen filter 

First Im need oil's, filters, gaskets and seals:


















Also to change oil in DSG gearbox you need special tool VAS6262. Im buy copy which work great:









Im in this time receive from HG-Motorsport DV Holder(HGHFS3SUVH) which is little different than OEM one  Pictures tell more than words 




































And Im receive GFB DV+


















This two mods wait together that I install them this weekend...


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## gogs

Look forward to hearing how well they work together


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## _Dejan_

Here is one movie from Dyno when we remap ECU for Stage 3 parts...
LINK


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## Chrisrj

car is looking awesome, nice work


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## patton

great work! looking forward to seeing where you go next


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## david_129

This is awesome, are you going to be changing any body work or not? loving the stage 3 results


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## dea

_Dejan_ said:


>


This is age old image, but just wanted to comment on something. Generally you do not ever want to install an O2 sensor "between 3 and 9 o-clock" as seen in here. If judged from the picture POV, the sensor is at 7. Reason being that condensation/water pooling in the pipe can kill the sensor.

Just a friendly note and warning  Hope your sensor is still good.


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## _Dejan_

dea said:


> This is age old image, but just wanted to comment on something. Generally you do not ever want to install an O2 sensor "between 3 and 9 o-clock" as seen in here. If judged from the picture POV, the sensor is at 7. Reason being that condensation/water pooling in the pipe can kill the sensor.
> 
> Just a friendly note and warning  Hope your sensor is still good.


In this picture sensor is at cca. 5 o-clock if you look in driving direction(Picture is made from front to back) ...
As I remember now is at around 3-4 o-clock but I can't move it more up because it hit wall. I can't use 45°O2 spacer because last time when Im use it Im get errors... 
Thanks for warning


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## _Dejan_

One movie with acceleration from 100km/h to 200km/h.  It is around 10 seconds and is not so bad 
LINK


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## _Dejan_

Long time ago has my shift paddle for "up shift" occasionally(1-2x per month) stop working and Im decide to change both to alu version... Because new at audi is little expensive Im start searching on ebay and after few months searching(every few week Im check for new items) Im found one seller who sell new pair for 110€ with postage to my country 

New vs. old one:


















And both changed:


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## Gussy

Nice stage 3 tt coming along great


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## _Dejan_

Winter is almost over and it is time to put my car back to road... But before this I need to do some things on it 
Small packets of things already waiting... Other are still on way to me...









Car need oil change service so Im decide to take Millers NanoDrive 5w40 oil:









Because rear disc and pads are worn out Im decide to change them to something else and together change also first brakes...
First Im buy MTEC C-Hook Black discs:



























And Ferodo DS2500 pads:



























At same time Im decide that I will change brake lines to HEL Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines:













































And as brake fluid use MOTUL DOT 5.1 ... 









Around 2-3 years ago Im paint brake calipers to red color with E-TECH brake caliper color and they are still pretty ok but have black dust which will probably go off with cleaning, but if not I have spare brake color prepared to repaint them...


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## bhoy78

Nice thread, well modded car 8)


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## drejcislo

Dejan I saw you driving your car in Ljubljana on Monday...huge quad tailpipes!


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## _Dejan_

drejcislo said:


> Dejan I saw you driving your car in Ljubljana on Monday...huge quad tailpipes!


Yes I'm  Not realy huge they are 76 mm


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## drejcislo

Maybe we will have to do a Slovenia TT meet up :wink: it would be interesting to see how the car puts that much power down just through the front wheels...


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## _Dejan_

Im also from USA receive "Torque Solution Front Brake Caliper Slider & Bolt Kit" and yesterday change original plastic/rubber ones with this new ones...


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## r3_tbh

Good work buddy, keep it up


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## _Dejan_

This summer Im upgrade my LPFP and change it with "HIGH FLOW 265LPH Intank Pump" ordered from fuelperformance.co.uk




























But this winter I have plenty time to colect a lot of new parts...










Right now I will show only few of them and later when I will install them I will post more pictures...

Lets start with new engine & transmission mounts. Because this is my daily car Im chose street density mounts from 034:



















Powerflex Insert have a lot of kilometers so is time to change it with 034 Billet Aluminum Dog Bone Mount Insert:










Also Im decide to make Runner Flap Delete so need this kit:










And last thing to show right now is new CTS Diverter Valve Kit:





































More pictures in next months when I will start working on upgrades


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## C00P5TT5

In the early posts you got a gfb+ diverter valve. Why have you bought another, different, one?


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## _Dejan_

Im lose spring and plunger of DV+ so had option to buy new GFB DV+ or replace it with something else...
Also DV+ produce me some fluttering sound in partial throttle which I don't like so hope that with this one I will not hear it...


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## _Dejan_

This saturday Im spend some time in garage and start preparing car for new season...

First Im take off oil pan and check oil pickup pipe which is original one(150k km) and it do not look so bad:










Im change it with new one and do main service(oil, filters).

Then Im remove powerflex dog bone mount insert and install 034 Motorsport one.










Im remove HG-Motorsport turbo muffler delete and K04 pipes from turbo to intercooler and replace them with Spulen Boost Pipe Kit. Another side(Intercooler to intake manifold) of boost pipes I will change later...




























After that Im remove front calipers and relube sliders.
Tomorrow car get new tires Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 245/40 R18...

Next things to do are:
-Change Engine&Transmission mounts
-Spark Plugs

Later when I receive some additional parts
-Cam Follower
-RFD
-HPFP Sensor
-CTS DV


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## mirinjawbo

What site s do you get your parts from?


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## _Dejan_

I buy parts from a lot of different online shops from EU, UK and USA...


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## _Dejan_

Some small progress...

Im change Battery from original one 1J0 915 105AG (80Ah - 10Years Old) to new Exide EA900 (90Ah).

Then Im clean new intake manifold 06F133201P which Im get from S3(CDL):










Install RS4 PRV:










Remove runner flap motor, flaps and install RFD:










And finaly change engine and transmission mounts(Left New, Right Old):


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## Roller Skate

_Dejan_ said:


> Some small progress...
> 
> Im change Battery from original one 1J0 915 105AG (80Ah - 10Years Old) to new Exide EA900 (90Ah).
> 
> Then Im clean new intake manifold 06F133201P which Im get from S3(CDL):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Install RS4 PRV:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove runner flap motor, flaps and install RFD:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finaly change engine and transmission mounts(Left New, Right Old):


I love this thread ... you never seem to mind getting your hands dirty. Good effort chap.


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## _Dejan_

Here is one video where is visible difference between OEM worn mount and new 034 Motorsport Street Density:

VIDEO


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## Vanu

nice work, I have some vibrations in the cabin, how can you tell if engine mounts are worn out without taking them off? Or those were the original ones?


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## _Dejan_

I have plan change original ones because have some kilemeters done under stress and engine movement is to big... 
After replace to 034 Motorsport Street Density ones I don't feel or hear more noise than before. Also jerking on parking with slow speed which im think that reason is failing mechatronic is gone. Gear changes are more nicer and better changing down gear...


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## _Dejan_

It is time for another small update...
Im receive some new parts...

Aquamist 4-way hex manifold:










Aquamist 1bar Checkvalve with compression fittings:










Aquamist 140cc Checkvalve jet(I will running 4x140cc in intake manifold) with 90°compress fitting:



















Im start modification of new intake manifold:




























Jet adaptors are test fitted and must remove them and prepare manifold to final fit and glue adapters...


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## jacexinho

_Dejan_ said:


>


I have seen similar weird traces in engine bay of car I wanted to buy - 
















Do you know where it comes from? Is it repair after accident?


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## _Dejan_

Im glue adapters into manifold:










Few days before I start with summer vacations Im receive Aquamist HFS4 kit:



















WMI pump:










Gauge installed into OSIR O-Pod Mono:










HFS 4 controller:


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## Roller Skate

_Dejan_ said:


> Im glue adapters into manifold:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few days before I start with summer vacations Im receive Aquamist HFS4 kit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WMI pump:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gauge installed into OSIR O-Pod Mono:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HFS 4 controller:


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## _Dejan_

jacexinho said:


> Do you know where it comes from? Is it repair after accident?


I have been told that my has not be damaged in any accident when Im buy it...


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## _Dejan_

Here is some small update 

Because of design of dashboard air vent Im cut original to block airflow of vent which I use for gauge. Now I don't lose cooling efect on other dashboard vents ...










Blocked hole:










Gauge mounted:










And Intake Manifold prepared for install(Jets mounted and connected):


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## p0xy

This is an insane build mate well done!

Have you got any more updates? hahah i want to know what more you have done. Loved reading through this thread


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## _Dejan_

WMI kit is installed and running for 2 days... Still need logging and tuning... I will upload pictures in next days...


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## _Dejan_

Here is update...

First Im modify Spulen throttle pipe pipe and add adapter for WMI jet:



















Then Im remove intake manifold and install modified one:




























After that Im start installing HFS-4 kit.

First Im modify original washer fluid reservoir:










Then Im prepare case for wmi pump and relay:










Connect everything together(hoses, wires to ECU):



















At same time Im also install CTS Diverter Valve Kit:



















Now I need to tune system make a lot of logging...


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## _Dejan_

Im decide that I will sell my car... So in cca. 1 month I will put it on stock(Except intercooler, exhaust, downpipe and HPFP) and if someone is interested in some parts I will sell them seperate...
I have also avalible:
-Powerflex WALK PFF85-502G-5-AA (NEW)
-Powerflex PFF85-501-AA (NEW)
-DW65v LPFP 9-654-1025 (3 months old, used in car for 2 months)


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## timdaggett79!

Nice car


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## cryptopsy

How did you add the ports to the manifold?


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## _Dejan_

@cryptopsy I think it is well documented  Please go one page back and is documented with pictures... Im drill holes into manifold, add adapters and then glued them...


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