# Footwell Part 1 - The prep



## TTSFan

So been chatting to Tosh, reading though the Audi Wiring diagrams, chatting to another member whom wishes to remain anonymous but works as a master tech for Audi, eventually I decided to give this dam Footwell a go. I ordered the parts about TWO MONTHS ago  and they were just sitting here looking at me.

*So - General Tips:*

1. Set aside 3 hours min to do this task (if you going to do it carefully) 
2. Make sure you KEEP the car's ignition off (I forgot once or twice and some weird faults started to appear on VagCom)
3. Now I am not the tallest lad 5.6 foot but DAM is it difficult to get to the Central Electronics (J519 is the official code for it) unit! Stretch and be ready to be a little of a contortionist 
4. This will only make sense once you actually get the trim on the driver side off but VERY VERY important when you looking at the BROWN plugs (Look at the pictures below) there is a RED clip that needs to be PULLED OUTWARDS, this allows you to then clip out any of the wiring plugs in the J519 harness. IMPORTANT - do not try to pull the wiring plugs out unless you have pulled the RED clip OUTWARDS! - Don't worry it will make sense once you under the dash  BUT VERY IMPORTANT!

*Right some tools that you going to need:*









*Here are the two types of PINS you going to need (they come with the wiring in the repair kits (Part numbers below). The SMALLER of the two PINS go into the TWO PIN connector (See below) and then go into the LED foot well lights:*









*Just something (Insulation tape color coding) I did which was color code the wires (PINS) so I wouldn't get the "+" and "-" wrong (and in the end I got it wrong ... ):*









*Lets look at the little PIN PLUGS you going to need, the one on the RIGHT is where the two SMALLER pins slot into, the one of the LEFT slides OVER the two pin plug, it creates a little lip that once plugged into the LED light it locks that two pin connector in: *








*
TOP SHOT of the two pin plug this is where the SMALLER pins (the ones in RED on the diagram with the two different wires above (diagram 2):*








*
---> WORK TO BE DONE:*
Now you should have (with the parts ordered) FOUR yellow wires, each wire will have PINS on each side. You should have FOUR Small PINS (one on each side of the TWO wires) and FOUR Large PINS (one on each side of the TWO wires), look at picture ONE (1) and you will see the FOUR wires with their PINS.

*STEP ONE:* Take the TWO wires with the SMALL PINS align them correctly (So the the same length) bend them in HALF and cut them so you have FOUR pieces of wire the same length (one end will have PINS the other END will be wire { Strip this wire so you can attach some additional wire later})

*STEP TWO:* Take some 12V wire you have bought (See Diagram ONE (1) I have BLACK 12V wire), and calculate how much wire you will require based on the width of the TT - I used 1 and 1/2 meters, attach the yellow ends to the ends of the black wires - YOU NOW HAVE TWO LONG wires with SMALL PINS on each side of the joined wires:
NOTE: I used some of that FABRIC TAPE (like the OEM tape) and wrapped all the wiring so that it does not rattle (You can see it in the picture below) - this is up to you though

*STEP THREE (IMPORTANT):* You need to TAP into this new wiring harness you created (so leave a little bit of wire exposed so you can tap into the wire). You will now need to ADD TWO wires (One onto each of the wires in your wiring harness). The ONE wire will have the YELLOW wire with the LARGE PIN (this is going into the wiring connector in the J519) the other wire will have a ROUND TERMINAL which you will ground (against one of the grounding points (see below for grounding points). THIS IS IMPORTANT : DO NOT ATTACH the LARGE pin AND the GROUND terminal TO THE SAME WIRE from the main harness each attach to one of the wires in the wiring harness:










*So the wires you attached will look like this at the end:*










*The complete wiring harness will look like this (Note the two wires (the ones from above) in the background:*









*NOW TO THE CAR:*
*First MAKE SURE you ignition is OFF!!!!*
*
STEP ONE: *Remove your FUSE box cover (if you don't know where this is - Sell the foot well lights cause you going to damage something). Once you have removed the fuse box cover there are two screws you need to remove (See below) to loosen the trim:









*STEP TWO: *Go under the driver side DASH (I don't have a picture but will take one when I get back to finishing this off) on the FAR side of the trim (left and RIGHT) there are two additional bolts loosen those). NEXT to your DASHPOD (where all your needs are and the DIS right by the steering wheel column) the trim has two clips that are clipped in just tug on them slightly to remove. NOTE: DO NOT PULL TO HARD as your LIGHT SWITCH wires are attached to the trim as well as the ODB II PORT (See below) tug softly and then unclip the light switch wiring plugs:










*
IN PART TWO  *I will show where to connect the pin and the grounding terminal and also what all those plugs underneeth look like.

So me being in a rush for day light I connected the "+" and "-" the wrong way round, now Bryn had told me that rumor was that you could get the FOOTWELL to shine two different colors RED and WHITE just by changing the "+" and "-" wires and well it did see the picture below for the FOOTWELL's in RED - later on I changed the "+" and the "-" around and they went back to white:


















*
ISSUES:*
I connected up everything - got the RED LED's didnt really like them as they didnt go with my new LED reading and map lights (they white) so I changed the "+" and "-" around and they became white.

Then the interesting part: 
1. VagCom - Central Electronics - Long Coding - Byte 0 - third option is "Footwell lights installed" = Checked then in the same Long coding (Can't remember which one will take screen shots) = Enable DIS Footwell menu.

Then the issues:
FWL = Footwell light

Ignition OFF = FWL = OFF
Ignition ON = FWL = ON
DOOR CLOSED (not locked) = FWL = ON -- (I thought at this point the FWL where suppose to go off :? :? )
DOOR CLOSED (not locked) , CAR STARTED = FWL = ON :? :? :? :?

The coding seems right - I might have the wrong pin but then the lights wouldn't have gone off (I tried a pin slot in the second brown connector they didn't even come on....)

So now its to find the BUG........ == I will update this post with all the findings as well as the install on the PASSENGER side....

Right some diagrams and the grounding points:

J519 - Connectors and PIN numbers (Note I connected the LARGE pin to CONNECTOR D and PIN 6 (was used)) Tosh - Unnamed member  - is this the one you suggested?? (I will amend once we find the right one)










GROUNDING points (this is where your ROUND terminal goes to)











*CREDITS:*

*TOSH - *thanks for pointing me in the right direction - when you back online I'll await the right pin layouts...
*
Unnamed member (but you know who you are) -*- for confirming a few things with me to building the wiring harness and the location of everything


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## robokn

Carlos looks very intensive BUT I think my way is poss cheaper and a lot easier, fair play though


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## TTSFan

robokn said:


> Carlos looks very intensive BUT I think my way is poss cheaper and a lot easier, fair play though


 - yeah sure but I like the fact I can control stuff in menus on the DIS.... otherwise I would have just tapped into the door wiring.... 

It *****LOOKS**** like a lot of labor but it's not actually  and by the time this tut is done someone will be able to do it in 45mins if that....


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## Toshiba

Both wires go into T11c, you dont ground one to the body.

Thread is here.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=130383&hilit=led+light#p1353684


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## TTSFan

Toshiba said:


> Both wires go into T11c, you dont ground one to the body.
> 
> Thread is here.
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=130383&hilit=led+light#p1353684


Which PINS though ?


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## TTSFan

Toshiba said:


> Both wires go into T11c, you dont ground one to the body.
> 
> Thread is here.
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=130383&hilit=led+light#p1353684


I just re read that entire post TWICE (cause I think I am missing something) no where there do you mention T11c... all you mention



> Not really much of a how to guide really its so simple.
> buy parts from audi for the foot-well lights (part numbers above)
> buy the black connectors for the light unit (again parts above)
> run a cable from fuse 15 to the + on the light, link this to the 2nd well light
> run a cable from the bulkhead to the - (earth point near fuse box)
> run a cable from back of glove-box to - on 2nd light unit.


Which I am sure is not right cause you talk about


> earth point near the fuse box


 and also


> run a cable from fuse 15 to the + on the light


All I need are which PIN's on T11c - the numbers and we all go.

BTW I can confirm if you change Polarization of the LED foot well's they do glow RED (as per the picture above).

With the current setup (as I posted above) the lights come on but stay on I need to confirm a few things with you PLEASE:

1. the PIN numbers for T11c for both + and -
2. Do the FWL go off when you have the door closed (or does the door need to be LOCKED) do they go off if you have the door closed and started the car (trying to figure out when they go off)
3. The current setup the FWL where not responding to the DIS menu brightness setting. I coded it in two places on the Central Electronics 1. Telling it had Footwell on the first byte and second telling it to display the Footwell DIS menu, I checked CAN Gateway and Central Convenience and no mention of any footwell I don't see where else this would be required....

I would appreciate the guidance...


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## TTSFan

Bump for TOSH's response


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## Toshiba

I'm not due home for the next 3 weeks.


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## TTSFan

SOOOO the plot thickens, having the wiring 100% correct and the footwells still not behaving the way they are suppose to I got in contact with **unnamed audi propeller head" on the forum. We then went through some tests:

1. We enabled Footwell through the Audi VAS system - which always seems to work
2. We then used VAGCOM longCode helper to get the entire long code
3. We then DISABLED the Footwell through the Audi VAS system - which always seems to work 
4. We copied the long code after that

and guess what there was a CONSISTENT BYTE\BIT that was changing:










Now the interesting part is the LATEST VCDS 904 beta doesn't have any "Prevalues the items that already have a check or not check box so you know what you enabling" for BYTE 24 which is where this is sitting ... so I took the step and manually changed the code part from 20 to 28 (see above) and entered it. The nice thing about VCDS is that if the ECU isnt suppose to accept that coding it wont it will give you a rude message to go play with your toys  but in this instance IT DID  which mean it's now stored.

THE SAD part is it's the middle of the night and I can't go install the footwells but I WILL do it tomorrow morning and report back 

WARNING: If you going to do this change its at your own risk  I was willing to take the risk and DO NOT accept any responsibility


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## TTSFan

So a QUICK report back as I have just completed the install and have to go to a fancy dress due...

IT WORKS     the footwell's with the doors and even the DIS menu selections works it was the settings I had posted above. I will clean up the writeup this weekend 

I am soooo glad we cracked this one -- the the unfortunately the forum member that wants to be unnamed we worked together and we cracked this one  WELL DONE!!!!! On to our next project   Keep reading


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## aleicgrant

do you have pictures of the final results.

I am contemplating doing them on my TTS but its looks like quite a job....


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## Toshiba

Be careful the coding above is not correct. You change 00 to 80 
80 means rest of the world. it seems to have been originally used to code trailers :?

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=130383&hilit=led&start=75


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## Fissues

Just wire them into the door lamps. It's easy, I did it.


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## aleicgrant

09TTSQR did you document the procedure by any chance?

what were the US part numbers you used for ordering?


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## Fissues

Nah, Just popped the puddle lights, spliced into the wires with 3M connectors, wire snaked some new wire up to the door conduit (don't poke the speaker) and then to the new footwell lights.
Parts needed:

Lights: 8J0 947 409 Qty, 2
Housing: 4B0 971 832 Qty, 2
Some wire
3M 22 ga. wire taps
Snake


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## piloTT

Well TTSFan, you seem to have cracked it. I got as far as installation but, as you, found the Vag-com coding proved challenging and had all sorts of problems like you, including one of the lights in the rear light cluster staying on aALL the time. So it looks like the long coding helper in Vag-com is incorrect?
I eventually gave up and wired the light the the overhead lights. This has the advantage of turning the footwell light on manually (along with the overlead light) if you drop something down there. Now that you seem to have solved the coding problem, I may go back and do it correctly


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## Hardrhino

piloTT said:


> I eventually gave up and wired the light the the overhead lights.


Which wire did you feed this off??? 
Looked at this today and for now have wired to a switched ignition feed. 
I would like it to be operated with the open/close of the door though...


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## piloTT

Hardrhino said:


> piloTT said:
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually gave up and wired the light the the overhead lights.
> 
> 
> 
> Which wire did you feed this off???
> Looked at this today and for now have wired to a switched ignition feed.
> I would like it to be operated with the open/close of the door though...
Click to expand...

I found a permenent live somewhere down in the footwell and used the overhead buldholders as the earth. With this, it is the EARTH(of the bulb holder) that is switched and not the live in the footwell.


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## Hardrhino

That sounds like a better idea than i have at the minute. :?

Did you use a wire from the bulb holder or find the earth wire in the back of the dash?
If the 1st how did you connect to it and where....
If the latter what colour is it? Might save me testing them all!

Thanks


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## TTSFan

Toshiba said:


> Be careful the coding above is not correct. You change 00 to 80
> 80 means rest of the world. it seems to have been originally used to code trailers :?
> 
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=130383&hilit=led&start=75


Might be but thats the coding used by the dealers when using VAS 5025 to switch ON and OFF Footwell's we tested it by ONLY turning ON and OFF footwells with VAS and see which BYTE's changed....

Go check your RS if it has footwells and see if that 80 is not set 

Greetings from Las Vegas (man I just want to get back home now been three weeks abroad).


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## TTSFan

piloTT said:


> Well TTSFan, you seem to have cracked it. I got as far as installation but, as you, found the Vag-com coding proved challenging and had all sorts of problems like you, including one of the lights in the rear light cluster staying on aALL the time. So it looks like the long coding helper in Vag-com is incorrect?
> I eventually gave up and wired the light the the overhead lights. This has the advantage of turning the footwell light on manually (along with the overlead light) if you drop something down there. Now that you seem to have solved the coding problem, I may go back and do it correctly


All you have to remember is its PIN 9 in the connector I specified ABOVE and then ground to the body  (Points also supplied above)).

Then set the coding and you done (without the coding it just simply doesnt work) I love the fact I can control it via the DIS 

_*NOTE::::*_ --- The procedure looks LONG but I can say for SURE that if I had to do it again (cause now I know all the parts etc) it would take me a total of maybe 25 minutes ......


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## Gizmo68

Sorry to bump an old thread, but if anyone is looking to do this on a 2010 onwards TT the CECM connections are now different!

I followed this thread (for a Passat) 
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/...ootwell-lights-activation-in-Passat-CC-MY2011

The pin you are looking to use for the positive feed for the lights is *pin 50* in the centre (white) plug. 
By doing it this way they will work as if they were fitted at the factory - so you have the option of them on whilst you are driving with the lights on, the brightness can also be dimmed through the DIS.


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## IC_HOTT

Gizmo68 said:


> Sorry to bump an old thread, but if anyone is looking to do this on a 2010 onwards TT the CECM connections are now different!
> 
> I followed this thread (for a Passat)
> http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/...ootwell-lights-activation-in-Passat-CC-MY2011
> 
> The pin you are looking to use for the positive feed for the lights is *pin 50* in the centre (white) plug.
> By doing it this way they will work as if they were fitted at the factory - so you have the option of them on whilst you are driving with the lights on, the brightness can also be dimmed through the DIS.


thanks Gizmo68 - yes I am, did you do this? if so are the part numbers or lights etc etc the same or do you have any details please ?


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## Gizmo68

I used different lights - because I had them, I used:

6L0 947 415 - Lights x2
1J0 971 972 Flat connector x2 (these fit into the lights)
000 979 131E Wire set x3

Cut the one wire set in half for the passenger side light (as the wire set's have the terminal on both ends) and lengthen the wires so it reaches the CECM.
The drivers side positive wire is long enough to run from the light to pin 50 on the CECM, cut the end off the negative wire and put a round terminal on bolted to the chassis.

I then simply put some eBay LED's into the lights, something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-T10-50...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ae93c01a

Mine are actually CANBUS LED's, because again I had them.

If you decide to use the TT boot lights instead of the above ones then you will need:

4B0 947 415A Lights x2 (same as the one in the boot / glovebox)
893 971 632 Connector x2 (these are a more square connector)
000 979 133E Wire set x2 (these have larger terminals than the ones I used)
000 979 131E Wire set x1 (the larger 000 979 133E wire sets terminal is too large for the CECM, so you still need one of these)

A _very basic_ wiring diagram:










HTH


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## IC_HOTT

Thanks Gizmo68, very useful :wink:


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## R7SAN

Hi Guys,

This is only my 2nd post but I got a bit stuck / confused today and I need some help with which connector / pin 
I should be using to install foot well lights.

My car is an 09 plate but it has RNSE with media button so I assumed the car to be an MY10 ??

Anyway today I removed the panel under the dash I was expecting to see my CECM to look like the one show in Gizmo68's thread
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=273945&hilit=Footwell+part

Reading through the above thread I found this one so I assume that I must have the earlier CECM










The View from under the dash my CECM looks like this 









(Orientation: Dash is top of pic, peddles are bottom)

So assuming mine is the earlier CECM and i have labelled it correctly is the following all i have to do to install foot well lights?

Connect the +pos feed to connector D pin 9
Earth the -ive feed to the chassis bolt near the fuse panel 
In VCDS enable "footwell lights installed" in 09 - Central Electronics
(I don't have VCDS but I know Simon at AMD surrey very well so will be asking him to code)

Maybe TTSfan or Gizmo68 could comment please ?

I can't PM but if anyone wants to answer that way I would really appreciate it.

Cheers
Stuart


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## Gizmo68

Yes that is the earlier CECM, (can't remember the pin no. for that one, but I assume you have read that it is pin D9)

Everything else looks correct [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## jonnieboy

Having read and re-read the post several times, I'm feeling dumb... what was the part number for the wiring repair kit (that contains the new pins for T11C)?

Thanks,

J


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## R7SAN

Hi Jonnieboy,

I couldn't work it out either but having just moved from an S3 I knew that over on Audi-Sport.net that Robin (RobinA3) makes up looms for foot well and puddle / emergency lights.
Loads of people have bought from him in the past so I just bought a ready made foot well loom from him.
Like every one who has bought them, I can confirm the quality of the loom is excellent.

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...diy-guide-retro-fitting-foot-well-lights.html


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## R7SAN

Reply to CWJ

Sorry Mate I cannot PM you as i haven't reached the undisclosed mystical number of required posts !?!?

In answer to your question - which pin on the CECM for pre MY10 cars ? 
I haven't wired mine up yet so i cannot confirm for sure however the only person on here who says they have it working is TTSFan and he stated it was pin 9 earlier on in this thread.

Maybe TTSFan can comment or as you can PM you could ask him ? Please let me know if you find out

Cheers
Stuart



TTSFan said:


> All you have to remember is its PIN 9 in the connector I specified ABOVE and then ground to the body  (Points also supplied above)).
> 
> Then set the coding and you done (without the coding it just simply doesnt work) I love the fact I can control it via the DIS


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## CWJ

Can anyone advise on the spanner size needed to remove the bolts by the fuse box so the dash can be removed?


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## CWJ

R7SAN said:


> Reply to CWJ
> 
> Sorry Mate I cannot PM you as i haven't reached the undisclosed mystical number of required posts !?!?
> 
> In answer to your question - which pin on the CECM for pre MY10 cars ?
> I haven't wired mine up yet so i cannot confirm for sure however the only person on here who says they have it working is TTSFan and he stated it was pin 9 earlier on in this thread.
> 
> Maybe TTSFan can comment or as you can PM you could ask him ? Please let me know if you find out
> 
> Cheers
> Stuart
> 
> 
> 
> TTSFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> All you have to remember is its PIN 9 in the connector I specified ABOVE and then ground to the body  (Points also supplied above)).
> 
> Then set the coding and you done (without the coding it just simply doesnt work) I love the fact I can control it via the DIS
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I'll let you know once I have had a go. I also bought the loom off the chap from the A3 forum - good quality!


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## R7SAN

CWJ said:


> Can anyone advise on the spanner size needed to remove the bolts by the fuse box so the dash can be removed?


From memory i think it was 5/16th or metric equivalent 8mm. 
I will check tonight and confirm

update: Yes bolts holding underside of dash in place are 8mm


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## CWJ

R7SAN said:


> CWJ said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone advise on the spanner size needed to remove the bolts by the fuse box so the dash can be removed?
> 
> 
> 
> From memory i think it was 5/16th or metric equivalent 8mm.
> I will check tonight and confirm
> 
> update: Yes bolts holding underside of dash in place are 8mm
Click to expand...

Thanks again.


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## emia

Hello, everybody
I'm come from france and I happy to find this beautiful tutorial  (Gizmo help me to find it). I trying to understand what's is the right Pin for my Audi TT 2008 Model, but I don't... Somebody can help me to find the righ number Pin for my CECM ? Thanks you very much.


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## emia

Is it 9 for + ? or 6 for + ?


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## CWJ

You could try this topic. Might be of some help:

viewtopic.php?t=273945


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## emia

Thanks you, it's seems that is the pin number 9 on the T11C, somebody can confirm ?


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## 237tonybates

Can anybody confirm the pin connection on the j519 2007 please I've read two threads one stating pin 6 on connector D and one stating pin 9

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Dezmoandtt

I've just wired mine up and it should be pin 9.

Can anyone share what the coding is for the DIS menu? I've enabled the footwell lights via central electronics but can't seem to find anywhere on this forum the second part of the coding. All I have in the DIS is the brightness control and they only come on with the door open - I'd like then to be on whilst driving too.


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## dak2v

Is there anyone near Leeds that can fit some footwell lights for me


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## Dreago

Are these correct lights? 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-LED-Courte ... 4562&rt=nc


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## dak2v

Yes they are thanks


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## Dreago

Thanks Dak2v, have you had a go at fitting them?


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## dak2v

One of my friends says he can do it so I'm just waiting for him to fit them


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## dak2v

Dreago can you fit them if he lets me down


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## Dreago

I havnt tried yet. I am still waiting for the parts to make the loom. I wired in my oil temp and boost gauge into my LCR, so think that side will be ok. It's the coding I don't know anything about. I was going to fit the loom and use an auto electrician to finish it off.

Sent from Tapatalk when I should be working!


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## amit91987

Hello

I have just had footwells installed into my Audi TTS (2009). I can see the footwell light option via the DIS (but this only relates to the brightness). How do I make the footwell lights stay on when my driving lights are on?

thank you.


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## gogs

How did you wire these up amit?


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## amit91987

TTSFan said:


> SOOOO the plot thickens, having the wiring 100% correct and the footwells still not behaving the way they are suppose to I got in contact with **unnamed audi propeller head" on the forum. We then went through some tests:
> 
> 1. We enabled Footwell through the Audi VAS system - which always seems to work
> 2. We then used VAGCOM longCode helper to get the entire long code
> 3. We then DISABLED the Footwell through the Audi VAS system - which always seems to work
> 4. We copied the long code after that
> 
> and guess what there was a CONSISTENT BYTE\BIT that was changing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the interesting part is the LATEST VCDS 904 beta doesn't have any "Prevalues the items that already have a check or not check box so you know what you enabling" for BYTE 24 which is where this is sitting ... so I took the step and manually changed the code part from 20 to 28 (see above) and entered it. The nice thing about VCDS is that if the ECU isnt suppose to accept that coding it wont it will give you a rude message to go play with your toys  but in this instance IT DID  which mean it's now stored.
> 
> THE SAD part is it's the middle of the night and I can't go install the footwells but I WILL do it tomorrow morning and report back
> 
> WARNING: If you going to do this change its at your own risk  I was willing to take the risk and DO NOT accept any responsibility


Hi I have just realised that my retrofitted footwell lights in my 2009 Tts work fine but when come on when the doors open my reverse light also comes on. Could this be because it may be wired not the central electronic module correctly (block b pin 7). If so which pin should it go to?

Also in my dis I can only change the brightness of the footwell. Is this the only option I can have?


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## ReTTro fit

Try Block D pin 9

Was block b pin 7 empty ?
On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## gogs

Block b pin 7 was occupied on my install, 1wheelonly was an absolute legend in working out the issue including sorting another issue that had arisen due to using block d pin 9 !

You can only adjust the brightness via the DIS, what options were you looking to have?

How did you route the wiring ?


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## ReTTro fit

DONT follow the link above !!! 
It is wrong !
It correct in theory but the description is wrong 
He is saying that he has a 30 byte module 
And has shown a square round what he THINKS he's changed 








He's followed up by saying he's changed byte 24 from 20 to a value of 28
Beware, HE HASNT 
In the marked square the 2 is actually the second digit from byte 24 ( 02 )
And the 0 that he has changed to 8 is actually the first digit from byte 25 ( 00 ) now (08 )
If you count the numbers he's actually changed two bytes together by mistake , Byte 24 and Byte 25

The actual adaption Is manually changing byte 25 from 00 to 80 
You'll notice then that byte 24 is still 02

That link would only work for you IF your byte 24 was actually 02

On iPhone using Tapacrap


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## gogs

Finished fitting my footwells today, work as they should, on when you unlock, look good but i don't think id do it all again if I'm honest !


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## amit91987

1wheel only - thanks. Yes block b pin 7 was empty on Mines.


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## amit91987

Gogs - Hi.. Does your footwell stay on when your driving lights are on? Thanks


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## gogs

Hi amit,

No, i also questioned this, it seems the cars with the newer modules have this function, it can be achieved i am informed by 1wheelonly by connecting the lights to the headlight switch which i will try


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## ReTTro fit

The older CEM doesn't seem to support them being on with headlights although later revisions of the old style module may, I'll look into it more

With the old style module not supporting this I've been thinking of a work around 
I believe the older CEM does support coming home / leaving home lights, therefore the footwell positive leg could be tapped into the relevant pin of a headlight 
This would then activate the footwell lights on locking / unlocking and also come on with headlights on

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

Is it not simpler to just tap into the interior or door lights or is it so you can have more control via the DIS ?


----------



## aquazi

Templar said:


> Is it not simpler to just tap into the interior or door lights or is it so you can have more control via the DIS ?


Thats what i would have thought too... and how often are you going to adjust the settings?

I havent touched mine at all.. and dont plan to.. they come on with the interior light and then go off.


----------



## Templar

aquazi said:


> Templar said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it not simpler to just tap into the interior or door lights or is it so you can have more control via the DIS ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what i would have thought too... and how often are you going to adjust the settings?
> 
> I havent touched mine at all.. and dont plan to.. they come on with the interior light and then go off.
Click to expand...

I haven't read all the posts in this thread but have you installed yours or were they factory ?


----------



## gogs

For me i wanted to go the oem route, i was not aware i had the older module which does not work with the headlights as the standard set up, tbh its an individual thing i guess, i like the idea of being able to adjust, probably wont once i find the light i like most.


----------



## Templar

gogs said:


> For me i wanted to go the oem route, i was not aware i had the older module which does not work with the headlights as the standard set up, tbh its an individual thing i guess, i like the idea of being able to adjust, probably wont once i find the light i like most.


I've thought about having some fitted and considered controlling them by the dimmer wheel next to the light switch so they're on all the time the headlights are on. Not sure how doable this is or if I'll get any error codes or problems.


----------



## gogs

1wheelonly is the man to advise ;-)


----------



## ReTTro fit

Templar said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> 
> For me i wanted to go the oem route, i was not aware i had the older module which does not work with the headlights as the standard set up, tbh its an individual thing i guess, i like the idea of being able to adjust, probably wont once i find the light i like most.
> 
> 
> 
> I've thought about having some fitted and considered controlling them by the dimmer wheel next to the light switch so they're on all the time the headlights are on. Not sure how doable this is or if I'll get any error codes or problems.
Click to expand...

This is easy to do 
The ground wire to the body and live wire to pin2 ( grey / blue ) on the light switch

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

Nice one thanks... 8) 
If I find them too bright would it be as simple as wiring a resistor to lower the initial brightness level or could this cause problems ?


----------



## gogs

And why was this option not given to me 1wheelonly ? ;-)


----------



## Templar

Seems easily enough..bit of wiring and a couple of OE led light units. I can filter back in this thread for part No's but looks like there's a few options on light units.


----------



## gogs

I bought aftermarket led's, same as my puddles, other than some wire thats all you need if doing it your way


----------



## ReTTro fit

gogs said:


> And why was this option not given to me 1wheelonly ? ;-)


Because someone wanted OEM lol
And I enjoyed our texts whilst you were bent in half under the dash with your CEM ! Lmfao

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## gogs

Indeed i did, what a twat..........


----------



## ReTTro fit

Templar said:


> Nice one thanks... 8)
> If I find them too bright would it be as simple as wiring a resistor to lower the initial brightness level or could this cause problems ?


Wired like that they dim with the cluster mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

Temp, have you got coming home lights ???

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

1wheelonly said:


> Temp, have you got coming home lights ???
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


No mate I haven't. Not much in the way of options on my RS. The reason I asked about popping some resistors on the lights is let's say I want my dash lighting bright but didn't want full brightness in the footwells. Does that sort of make sense ?


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yes it does mate but it would get more complicated as you'd have to make sure the resistance didn't back feed to the switch 
But yeh deffo possible

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

Temp, are you planning on having white led footwells ??
I've done red ones mate, used the red lenses from the warning lights on the end of the door cards 
On full brightness there not to bright whilst driving 
Obviously white leds would be

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

1wheelonly said:


> Temp, are you planning on having white led footwells ??
> I've done red ones mate, used the red lenses from the warning lights on the end of the door cards
> On full brightness there not to bright whilst driving
> Obviously white leds would be
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Did think white at first but I'm liking the idea of the red very much. Are the plugs and dimensions the same as the white ones ?
Does the shade of red match with the rest of the interior lighting ?


----------



## gogs

Ive got white and like it very much 

Ive got spare red lenses from the door cards


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yes the red matches the illumination spot on

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

gogs said:


> Ive got white and like it very much
> 
> Ive got spare red lenses from the door cards


Do these red lenses just clip on to the white lights ?


----------



## Templar

1wheelonly said:


> Yes the red matches the illumination spot on
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


 Might go for the red door markers then, suppose I could swap them over to the white if I couldn't get on with them. Don't know what to do about the map lights. ..In my previous roadster I put in red led's but they really wasn't bright enough to use them for reading.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Templar said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got white and like it very much
> 
> Ive got spare red lenses from the door cards
> 
> 
> 
> Do these red lenses just clip on to the white lights ?
Click to expand...

There's two types 
One is just a blanking lense, the other is an empty red light cluster 
I was fortunate enough to have the empty red clusters 
There not expensive either way mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

Cheers for the advice, appreciate it. Will see about getting some put in. Friend of mine has got some ambient lights under his seats in his roadster, white leds. Said he found the roadster too dark inside.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yours has the capability for them in the seats, that's OEM 
Have a feel about in the rear base of your seat, you'll feel the square cut out for them beneath the fabric, there for lighting the rear footwells

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

8DO 947 411









8E0 947 415









On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

1wheelonly said:


> Yours has the capability for them in the seats, that's OEM
> Have a feel about in the rear base of your seat, you'll feel the square cut out for them beneath the fabric, there for lighting the rear footwells
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Didn't think they'd be in the roadster seats but will be great if they are. Can't wait to get this done now.
Which would be the best way to wire the under seat lights ?


----------



## Templar

1wheelonly said:


> 8DO 947 411
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


That type would probably be best, can try all different bulb types to get the brightness spot on :wink:


----------



## ReTTro fit

Under the seats there's a slit in the carpet that the airbag loom runs through, I'd rod from there to the front 
Or you could remove the door sill plastic and get to it that way

Here's a pic, not a tt but you get the idea mate









On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

Great information thanks for that..just want to get it done now. 8)


----------



## aquazi

Templar said:


> Great information thanks for that..just want to get it done now. 8)


If you are undecided about red or white get the OEM LED ones.. they are a bit more expensive.. but i have read on here that if you reverse the polity they flip from white to red... not sure what point that is.. but sure you could find a way or using it - maybe locking the car they are white and red as driving lights.. which would be cool!

Edit: looks like the LED ones have this part code:
8J0 947 409 £7.17 + VAT

and here is the other post.. which has a bit more info:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=273945&start=30


----------



## Templar

Nice one thanks... :wink:


----------



## neilneil2000

@1Wheel, can you explain what you mean about the resistance feeding back to the switch?

It sounds like you are talking about wiring the footwell lights in parallel with the cluster lights. The LEDs will already be fitted with current limiting resistors so I would have thought adding additional series resistance to that branch would be fine, given that in theory that branch is already there today with infinite resistance.


----------



## sportq

aquazi said:


> If you are undecided about red or white get the OEM LED ones.. they are a bit more expensive.. but i have read on here that if you reverse the polity they flip from white to red... not sure what point that is..


The reason they make them red/white selectable is so that the same part can be used for the active door markers, puddle lights and footwell lights. Active door markers are on the outer edges of the doors facing the rear and light up when the door is opened, if you don't have this option fitted then there's usually a red reflector instead.

I'm more familiar with the A4 but I expect the TT is similar. The puddle lights and active door markers can be retrofitted and coded through the door modules to operate when a door is opened. Feel around the bottom of the door card, you'll find an a rectangular indentation if the puddle lights can be installed. For the active door lights, just remove the reflector and cut a hole in the same place and wire back to the controller then code.

Pete


----------



## aquazi

Thought i would update this with my experience of fitting them...

My car being a facelift had different wiring...

I removed my drivers side plastic under the steering wheel, head unit and removed the bolts from the glovebox so it could pivot and i could pull the wire through - but didnt drop it - last time i did this for my head unit took me a while to line it all back up!

I got my lights + loom from eBay from China for £20 shipped with LED units.

It came with these connectors:


The pin is the wrong size for the plug so had to get a repair wire from Audi:

Soldered it up:

So the connection is here - the centre white plug:


Open it up and its *Pin 50*
One tip - my white plug was secured with a zip tie.. which i slipped off to open up the connector... then i forgot to feed my wire through it - and then i couldnt remove my pin! so had to cut the zip tie and put a new one on... *so remember to feed it through the zip tie first!*


Earthed it under the steering wheel - added another bolt to the screw so i didnt need to remove the existing one (had one spare which fit!)


Back together... pre tiding up:


Night shot:


Coding had to be done in three places - as they were LED's:
09 Central Electrics 
Byte 12/Bit 5 (this added the option to the DIS)
Byte 20/Bit 0 (this supplies power to the lights - so this is the minimum)
Byte 25/Bit 3 (Needs to be set for LED's - disables the voltage check)

My long coding before:

46000B2FA805F1202070C9E00100094C52FE58AA3020D928DC000E440045

After
46000B2FA805F1202070C9E02100094C52FE58AA3120D928DC080E440045

I have them on all the time... set to 100% brightness on the DIS option - which is about 50% as bright as when the door is open - no not sure why it is 100%! Think that can be set in the adaptions in VCD but I didnt play with it.

Opinion - they are nice.. wish they were slightly brighter though!

Thanks to 1wheelonly for convincing me to do it - plan do do the puddle and warning lights next weekend now after seeing his


----------



## ReTTro fit

I fitted led footwells and puddles / warning lights today for jase 
Your footwell lights should be same brightness mate at 100%

No need for byte 25 / bit 3 mate as there not on the canbus 
I wonder if that's what's affecting the brightness

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

Foot Wells, puddles and makers part duex



coming home anyone ?



LED central



big thanks to the leg end who is..1wheelonly 

P.s doors shut a and headlights on..footwell at 20%, selectable on the dis; ) 
Deadman/footrest pedal to be fitted.


----------



## Aoon_M

Anyone fancy making me a kit to fit to mine lol.. Will pay :mrgreen:


----------



## Templar

Fancy a clock anyone..
headlights off:





Headlights on..





:wink:


----------



## Templar

Night time light levels adjustable by the dis..


----------



## aquazi

1wheelonly said:


> No need for byte 25 / bit 3 mate as there not on the canbus
> I wonder if that's what's affecting the brightness
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


I didnt enable that at first and i was getting an error with my footwell circuit "open" turned that on and it went away.... Strange really... I'll try turning it off again tomorrow and see if it makes a difference... I found it strange that 100% isnt as bright as with the doors open!

Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk


----------



## aquazi

Templar said:


> Fancy a clock anyone..
> headlights off:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Headlights on..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :wink:


Wow loving that clock! Clever how it switches colour too.

Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk


----------



## aquazi

Aoon_M said:


> Anyone fancy making me a kit to fit to mine lol.. Will pay :mrgreen:


Really isnt difficult... If i can do it anyone can!!

Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk


----------



## ReTTro fit

Aoon_M said:


> Anyone fancy making me a kit to fit to mine lol.. Will pay :mrgreen:


What you after Aoon ?
Footwells or puddles & warnings ?
Or both ?

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Templar

aquazi said:


> Templar said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fancy a clock anyone..
> headlights off:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Headlights on..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow loving that clock! Clever how it switches colour too.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

liking the OE feel of it, all linked in to the dis for adjustability, bright on unlock..off when the headlights are off and at a personal visual setting with the headlights on.
A nice reflective deadman/footrest next.


----------



## Aoon_M

1wheelonly said:


> Aoon_M said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone fancy making me a kit to fit to mine lol.. Will pay :mrgreen:
> 
> 
> 
> What you after Aoon ?
> Footwells or puddles & warnings ?
> Or both ?
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap
Click to expand...

Both please !

I have VCDS and will know what I'm doing when it comes to installation

Doesn't look too hard to be honest, but I would rather a kit.. I hate fiddling about with wires lol


----------



## ReTTro fit

Lmfao 
I thought you were the man for repairing the Bose Amps lol How can you hate fiddling with wires ?

If your serious I'll do a set for ya if you want mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Aoon_M

:lol: No wires involved in that :wink:

I hate wiring it drives me nuts haha. Retrofitting LED tail lights on my A1 was a bad enough experience! :lol: I'll drop you a pm.


----------



## aquazi

Well after seeing Templars and how much brighter his looked I went aftermarket... I swapped out the OEM lights for some 48 SMD boards - which i used in my previous Z4 for the footwells! They are a little OTT but i prefer them to the dim oem ones!



Set to 10% for driving - (which is actually 5% as my adoptions had my brightness halved!) which is a nice white hue


And the lights:


----------



## Templar

Nicely done mate :wink:


----------



## Aoon_M

Got my footwell lights installed today  They look good! (still need RNS removal keys to route the wiring to the other side, but that's enough for tonight. Big thanks to Lea for helping me out with the issues. Really brightens up the interior, means I'll need to keep it clean now!

*A note to people with the 8P0907279K CEM module. You must enable footwell lighting in byte 00 and then go on to change byte 24 to 80 manually or it won't work, save yourself the hassle!*


----------



## ReTTro fit

Glad your sorted mate, happy to help

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## aquazi

Fitted my puddle lights over the weekend... For the puddle lights i got oem lights but gutted them and fitted some COB LED boards... really bright... but a little too blue... but match the footwell lights! Just need more powerful dome LED lights now as they look quite dim in comparison! Also had to buy 3 different connectors from Audi before i found the right one... anyone interested its *979009EA*

Some pics:


----------



## IC_HOTT

fitted footwells today, into white plug CEM pin 50, works a treat, great guide thanks.

next, puddles and red door lights . . .


----------



## Blaylock1988

*I'm reviving the thread to help those of us with older TTs retrofit footwell lights and have near-OEM function.*

Since my TT is a 2008 3.2, from what I've read there is no factory solution to get footwell lights on with dome lights (doors open) and/or with the headlights on without changing to a more recent CEM. I've devised a way to have both of those functions AND have an on/of fade without the need for a newer CEM!

*Below is the list of parts and the necessary circuit design.*

The first and most important thing we need is of course footwell lights. I bought a kit from Boldsport that comes with red LEDs and nice long wire leads:
http://www.bold-sport.com/store/index.p ... uct_id=131










I measured the amperage of the LED circuit and it came to 0.35A not including the voltage drop over the diodes and dimmer module. I still need to measure the current on the inputs of the fader module when it arrives.

To get the fade on/off effect I bought this convenient little gadget:
https://www.oznium.com/fade-in-fade-out










I'll also need to buy three fuse stacks (and some 2 amp fuses) to tap into the fuse box safely:


















The circuit will be more complicated than I would like, but the dimmer module really helps simplify things compared to using a transistor circuit shown in this video: 



. As shown in the diagram above, I'll need fuse stacks on the dome light fuse, the headlight fuse, and the constant 12V power fuse. The dome light and headlight power will be connected in parallel after a diode on each line to prevent reverse voltage while still powering the footwells under the two conditions. During the situations that the dome lights come on while the headlights are on, the voltage and resistance isn't changing, so the current draw won't change and the diodes and fuses will protect the rest of the car's electronics.

The cool thing about this dimmer is that I can customize the on/off dimming speed. If I really wanted to get fancy I could add potentiometers or resisters on either trigger source or after the dimmer to adjust the brightness of the LEDs, but I like bright footwell lights so I think I'll leave them as is.

I'm just waiting on the dimmer to be delivered and to get my TT back from the shop. Once I have everything installed, I'll make a video demonstrating it. I'll do some more testing once I get the dimmer in the mean time.


----------



## MT-V6

Looking to add footwell lights soon, and I have just read through this thread and there are references to various CECM pins, so I wanted to clarity the correct one for a 2007 prefacelift car with CECM 8P0907279K.

D9 looks to be the one, but D6 and B7 are also mentioned.

In VCDS:
CECM-09: Byte 00 -> 'Footwell lights installed'
CECM-09: Byte 24 -> 00 to 80
Somewhere else? -> 'Enable DIS menu'

So basically, what pin do I need and am I missing anything on VCDS?


----------



## ReTTro fit

Due to it being a 8P0 cem from a A3 the correct pin is B7 
However, as its being used in a TT that pin is already populated, therefore you need to use D9 for the TT

D9 on the A3 is for the indicators on the wings ( side repeaters ) but as the TT doesn't have these, we use the pin for footwells and alter the coding as you have already mentioned else you get the indicators lit

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6

ReTTro fit said:


> Due to it being a 8P0 cem from a A3 the correct pin is B7
> However, as its being used in a TT that pin is already populated, therefore you need to use D9 for the TT
> 
> D9 on the A3 is for the indicators on the wings ( side repeaters ) but as the TT doesn't have these, we use the pin for footwells and alter the coding as you have already mentioned else you get the indicators lit
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Helpful as ever!

As for the CECM pin, I've seen references to 000 979 131 E, is this correct?


----------



## Blaylock1988

ReTTro fit said:


> Due to it being a 8P0 cem from a A3 the correct pin is B7
> However, as its being used in a TT that pin is already populated, therefore you need to use D9 for the TT
> 
> D9 on the A3 is for the indicators on the wings ( side repeaters ) but as the TT doesn't have these, we use the pin for footwells and alter the coding as you have already mentioned else you get the indicators lit
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Huh so does this mean I don't need my mess of wires I mentioned earlier? My TT is MY2007 US. I don't remember the CEM version.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## ReTTro fit

On pre facelift you can only have them acting the same as the interior dome lights 
You can't have them on with headlights if wired and coded oem

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6

Could anyone confirm if the pin in the above picture is correct for an 8P0 CECM?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yes it is mate

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Blaylock1988

ReTTro fit said:


> On pre facelift you can only have them acting the same as the interior dome lights
> You can't have them on with headlights if wired and coded oem
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Got ya, ok so I will need the stuff I bought to imitate all of the function I want (dome lights and headlights). I have everything, just need to get in and install it. I may do it this weekend.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

MT-V6 said:


> As for the CECM pin, I've seen references to 000 979 131 E, is this correct?


Just bought one of these from Audi, it was £3.04 + VAT. Might try and access the CECM over the weekend and have a look, the rest looks pretty easy

Also after reading other posts, I have noticed my seats have the slot underneath for lights, not sure whether it is worth doing the rear though as I'm tall and have the seat all the way back


----------



## ReTTro fit

All Audi seat have the slots in for rear footwells apart from buckets

I've done them in mine just for the hell of it lol
















On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6

Yeah that does look good, I guess it just creates a glow

Did you wire it through an empty pin on the seat connector block?


----------



## ReTTro fit

No mate, made my own looms and plugs and followed the existing looms and married them with cloth tape for oem look

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## MT-V6

*How to: retrofit front footwell lighting on a prefacelift TT*

I finished fitting the front footwell lights today, and here is the definitive guide for prefacelift cars (central electric module (CECM) 8P0 907 279 K), as there is some confusion in earlier posts.

Parts needed:
8J0 947 409 A - White LED light
4B0 971 832 - Flat two pin connector (for lights)
000 979 009 E - Wire set with square pins (for above connectors) x2 *or* TE 963715-1 x4
000 979 150 E - Wire set with clamp pins (for CECM) x1
Eyelet ground terminal x1
12v twin wire, about 2 metres

Fitting
Use in conjunction with above posts and this guide for the A3 in terms of fitting.

Remove a small bolt that is secured to solid metal around the steering column and bolt it through the eyelet. I added an M6 bolt just above the CECM as there are some threaded holes there. This is the ground feed and goes to pin 1 of the LED lights.










The correct CECM pin is block D, pin 9. The block letters are embossed, but you will need a torch to be able to see them. There is a large red lever which you need to slide in order to release the blocks, and a smaller pink tab on the block which will allow you to add a pin. This is the positive feed and goes to pin 2 of the lights.

CECM block D loosened ready for the new pin to be added:



















Now you can split these wires into two and feed each end to each side of the dashboard.

I chose to go a step further and wire the passenger side through the 8 pin glovebox connector as OEM, so the footwell light doesn't need to be disconnected separately. This meant I didn't need to feed earth to the passenger side. The wiring for this is the positive feed should go to pin 3 of this connector, using pin 000 979 019 E (I used TE 963710-1). Then in the glovebox loom, splice a wire into pin 7 for earth, and fit a wire into pin 3 for positive using pin 000 979 020 E (I used TE 964270-2).

The light wired into the glovebox loom:



















I also fed wires from the drivers side light down the side of the footwell to underneath the drivers seat ready to fit rear footwell lights: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=987401.

VCDS Coding
Cent. Elect-09 - Long Coding

Byte 0 - enable 'Footwell Lights installed'[/*]
Byte 24 - manually change from 00 to 80[/*]

There is an extra option under byte 25 called 'Lamp Diagnosis for Footwell Lights inactive (for LED Footwell Lights)', which I initially tried but the code is out of range and cannot be saved. However, it is not required and the LEDs work fine, without creating any fault codes.

You will probably need to do a full scan after installation and clear any faults created by unplugging the light switch and passenger airbag switch if applicable.

Usage
The footwell lights will fade on and off with the courtesy lights when the doors are opened and closed. The default brightness is 30%, however this can be changed in the DIS:


----------



## ReTTro fit

Too add to the above detailed write up by MT-V6 :

On facelift cars with later CEM (MY10) 
The it's exactly the same but you need to use pin 50 in block B 









And the menu for dimming in the dis is for when you have your lights on, your footwells will be lit at the percentage set 
This doesn't alter the brightness when locking unlocking, they are 100% for that function

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## gjera

I'd like to add further few of the findings that I discovered.

Since my central electronics module is even older (8P0 907 279 H) as ones mentioned above, provided instructions didn't work for me. Problem is that in VCDS my byte length is only 24 bytes long and not 30 as in those described here. Therefore changing byte 24 to value 80 doesn't work for me. As researched through internet, a lot of people simply changed their control module for new one to get it working. Luckily I found another way to enable footwell lights on this module.

As I found out on this page (http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/ce ... 871/page-2), pins should be actually be a bit different as described here. So I tried pin 7 on module B and it worked flawlessly. All I needed in VCDS was to enable footwell lights (central electronics -> long coding -> byte 0 -> enable footwell).

Hope it helps someone.


----------



## GaryG

09TTSQR said:


> Nah, Just popped the puddle lights, spliced into the wires with 3M connectors, wire snaked some new wire up to the door conduit


Not having the LED pack, but having 2 new puddle lights sitting on my desk, I reckon splicing the puddle lights into the roof lighting door switch would do the job, unless anyone knows different...


----------



## aquazi

What years your car?

As its actually far easier to go to the cem... As its in the right place.... And one connector and earth...

Just need someone local with vcds.

Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


----------



## MT-V6

Puddle lights go to the door modules I believe, not CEM. This is next on my list

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

But yes probably easier as less wires to feed

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## aquazi

I read that as using puddle lights as footwell lights!

But yeah if using puddle lights then def the door controller.

The repair wire is a different size though (depending on what yr) than the cem for puddle lights.

If i can manage them... Anyone can!!

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## GaryG

aquazi said:


> What years your car?


 '08 - no LED pack.


> As its actually far easier to go to the cem... As its in the right place.... And one connector and earth...


I take your point.


> Just need someone local with vcds.


True,


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## ReTTro fit

Puddle lights and footwell lights are exactly the same light units

Pre facelift cars :
Footwells pin D9 on cem
Puddles pins 1 &2 on door module

Facelift cars :
Footwells pin B50 on cem
Puddles pins 18 & 19

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## lahdepe

I have installed those LED footwell ligths to my 2008 TTS and I can't get them working for some reason.

Connected to pin D9 on cem.

CECM-09: Byter 00 -> "Footwell lights installed"
CECM-09: Byter 24 -> 00 to 80

After this the lights flashes ones and then I get an error:

Tuesday,13,September,2016,17:22:28:05031
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.1 Running on Windows 7 x86
http://www.Ross-Tech.com

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-30-H.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8P0 907 279 N HW: 8P0 907 279 N
Component and/or Version: Bordnetz-SG H54 2801
Software Coding: 0D060E8280141C80CF18000A1800000000084E075B260802800000000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 01236 785 00200
Additional Info: 8J1955119A Wischer AU354 H07 0070 
VCID: 4898C00F2BA05C7ED5-801C
1 Fault Found:

00061 - Footwell Lights 
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 133
Mileage: 90558 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.09.13
Time: 17:23:00

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 13.75 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

Eventhough I take both LED units disconnected there will the same error. Can someone help with this?


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## aquazi

You sure you havent shorted the connection?

Turn off the coding does the error clear?

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## lahdepe

aquazi said:


> You sure you havent shorted the connection?
> 
> The cable was ready made when I bought it. I just connected D9 and earth...
> 
> Turn off the coding does the error clear?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


The cable was ready made when I bought it. I just connected D9 and earth...
Yes turn off coding clears the error. Doens't come anymore.


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## aquazi

On my tts i had to code them to LED lights too....there was another checkbox somewhere... try that too....

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## lahdepe

aquazi said:


> On my tts i had to code them to LED lights too....there was another checkbox somewhere... try that too....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


Something else than bytes 00 and 24?


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## aquazi

Yeah pretty sure.... just remember on vcds it called the box LED lighting if you are using the LED lights.

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## lahdepe

aquazi said:


> Yeah pretty sure.... just remember on vcds it called the box LED lighting if you are using the LED lights.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 6s using Tapatalk


Any idea where I can find this setting? I'm pretty much a newbie with this car and with VCDS. I don't remember seeing that kind of setting in CECM-09.


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## m-a-r-k

On my facelift 2011 car:

Central Electronics: Byte 12: Bit 5 Footwell Lights with Terminal 58d active
this is CECM pin 51 and already connected and enables dimming in DIS
Central Electronics: Byte 20: Bit 0 Footwell lights installed
Central Electronics: Byte 25: Bit 3 Footwell Lights inactive (LED Footwell Lights)
this stops bulb out errors when LED lights fitted.
Can control brightness of lights in DIS was 30% originally, now 100% which means they are dimmed when doors closed.
There was no DIS menu option until I turned on Byte 12 and 25

May help although I see your controller is different.

It may be that on pre-facelift you have to have incandescent bulbs and that there is no option on your controller for LED lights (Byte 25), hence the error as it can't see any current in the circuit.


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## MT-V6

I have central electric module 8P0 907 279 K (pre-facelift) and have LED lights (8J0 947 409 A) with no problem. I enabled footwell lights and manually changed the byte as you have done.

Do you have the setting showing in the DIS?

Do the LEDs work if you remove them and test them?


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## ReTTro fit

There is no canbus / bulb warning system etc on interior lighting on the tt

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## lahdepe

MT-V6 said:


> I have central electric module 8P0 907 279 K (pre-facelift) and have LED lights (8J0 947 409 A) with no problem. I enabled footwell lights and manually changed the byte as you have done.
> 
> Do you have the setting showing in the DIS?
> 
> Do the LEDs work if you remove them and test them?


Yes LED's are working fine. I tested each one separately. Also I rechecked the wiring. Nothing wrong in that. Have you changed only bytes 00 and 24?


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## ReTTro fit

Is the setting showing in your dis ??

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## lahdepe

ReTTro fit said:


> Is the setting showing in your dis ??
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is DIS


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## ReTTro fit

The computer display between your clocks

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## lahdepe

ReTTro fit said:


> The computer display between your clocks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How it should be visible in DIS? Sorry to ask stupid questions but I need to know what to check.


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## ReTTro fit

On the dis there's a menu for settings 
Then lighting

You should see menu for footwell brightness

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## lahdepe

ReTTro fit said:


> On the dis there's a menu for settings
> Then lighting
> 
> You should see menu for footwell brightness
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But there is just this one button to select what to see in the display. Does this work with 2008 model?


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## MT-V6

Yes, that's all I changed, details in my post here viewtopic.php?p=7268273#p7268273

To access the DIS use the reset and up/down buttons on the wiper stalk. It's under set > lights > interior > footwell lights. Refer to your handbook for more info on how to use the DIS :wink:


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## ReTTro fit

lahdepe said:


> ReTTro fit said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the dis there's a menu for settings
> Then lighting
> 
> You should see menu for footwell brightness
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> But there is just this one button to select what to see in the display. Does this work with 2008 model?
Click to expand...

There's 3 buttons

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## lahdepe

ReTTro fit said:


> lahdepe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ReTTro fit said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the dis there's a menu for settings
> Then lighting
> 
> You should see menu for footwell brightness
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> But there is just this one button to select what to see in the display. Does this work with 2008 model?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's 3 buttons
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes it's visible in DIS menu. Brightness was 80%. I tried to change it to 40% but same result. Light are on for ~2s and then the error comes. I don't know if this has anything to do with the glove box light but it hasn't work for me in any phase.


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## ReTTro fit

Sounds to me that it doesn't like your led units

Test it with normal bulbs

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## lahdepe

ReTTro fit said:


> Sounds to me that it doesn't like your led units
> 
> Test it with normal bulbs
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Like I said in the beginning "Eventhough I take both LED units disconnected there will the same error." So does it help if I put normal bulbs there? But yes I can test that. Only problem is I don't have those original bulb holders because I have only these LED units instead.


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## ReTTro fit

The error is the electrical circuit isn't seeing enough resistance so the fault will be the same when connected and disconnected 
A normal bulb will complete the circuit

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## MT-V6

Although the connectors are different so it isn't plug and play, the non-LED units are the same as your boot and glovebox lights, so pop them out and give it a try?

They are just ordinary 501/W5W bulbs though


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## lahdepe

Ok my bad. I found the reason for this problem. Now the lights works perfectly. There was nothing wrong with the LED units but it needed all four of them in place. I put only those ones in front. I didn't even know that there is a place for two more lights below the seats. I thought it was only for four door cars.

Thanks for your help! Next I try to install the door lights...


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## ReTTro fit

That just proves that the resistance of your leds wasn't high enough 
By adding two more units for the seats created a higher resistance.
It's deffo down to the lights you've bought 
I don't know if anyone else bedsides myself that's actually fitted the rears
Everyone just does the fronts

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## tttony

lahdepe, just for your information, Audi never offered a factory option of rear footwell lights despite the holes being in the seat bases. As you say, the option is usually only offered on cars with "real" rear seats!


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## MT-V6

I fitted just the fronts (for now) with LED units with no issues. Are you using genuine parts? The resistance must be different as Retrofit said. I used 8J0 947 409 A

In fact I have the same issue as you described with my twin LED boot lights, if one of them is unplugged. Same with the number plate lights. Even though they aren't monitored like headlight etc, if it doesn't detect anything plugged in it will still cut the voltage. In the case of the boot lights, it registers a fault code along the lines of a ground problem.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Different led units will have different resistance values

I don't and never have used oem units as they are nowhere near as bright as the aftermarket ones I use.

I use these for footwells, door puddles, glovebox, boot etc

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391568246384

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## ReTTro fit

tttony said:


> lahdepe, just for your information, Audi never offered a factory option of rear footwell lights despite the holes being in the seat bases. As you say, the option is usually only offered on cars with "real" rear seats!


100% correct 
The only reason I did it was because the whole was there and it was something a bit different on a TT 
"ALL" audi seats apart from the RS buckets have the slot for the lights

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## ReTTro fit

I run dual footwells, white when unlocking / opening etc

Then they fade out and red ones activate with illumination






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## MT-V6

ReTTro fit said:


> I run dual footwells, white when unlocking / opening etc
> 
> Then they fade out and red ones activate with illumination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do like that, I remember you told me at Stanford Hall. I take it you cut out another rectangle for them to slot in to?

If illumination is on and doors are open, do both light together?


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## ReTTro fit

Yep and yep lol

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## lambojota

Hi, my first post here so please bear with me although I must admit that I am a long time lurker! 

I have followed the instructions on this thread to the letter to rettrofit LED (3AD 947 409) footwell lights on MY11 TT TDI. Unfortunately it did not work as the lights did not come on at the end even though I could see the option in the DIS. When I have rechecked all the connections I noticed that the pin (000 979 131E) looked and felt really lose in pin 50 in the CECM (in fact it came out really easily). So was wondering, is this the right connector or is 000 979 133E a better choice?

Thanks,


----------



## ReTTro fit

Either pin should work, there female pins and basically open up and clamp either side of the male prong when it's plugged in

Have you double checked your ground ? 
Have you tested the led units ?

Have you tested for voltage coming out of pin 50 ?

Have you checked for fault codes ? 
Have you checked in measuring blocks ?

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## lambojota

Thanks for your quick reply.

I tried two locations for earthing, I tried using the bolt which secure the dash undertray next to the fuses, and I also tried the grounding point on the steering column.
Yes I have tested the LED units and they work perfectly when they are connected directly to a 12v supply.

No fault codes, though I have not checked for voltage or measuring blocks. As regards to the latter can you point me to which I should be looking exactly from VCDS?

Once again thanks for your help!


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## aquazi

The pin shouldnt be loose at all!

I def used the repair wire 131E on mine.... and its stiff and clicks in place.










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## ReTTro fit

If the wire is loose and you can pull it out then it's not located in the plug correctly 
The only way you should be able to remove the pin is by pushing the side tabs in

Are you sure the pin is all the way in ??

Past the lock retainer

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## lambojota

To be honest, I read that on a pre facelift TT, the pin was also a bit loose hence I thought to double check. I will def have another look to make sure it is in the right place and firmly locked!

Thanks for your pointers and kind help, much appreciated!


----------



## IC_HOTT

lambojota said:


> To be honest, I read that on a pre facelift TT, the pin was also a bit loose hence I thought to double check. I will def have another look to make sure it is in the right place and firmly locked!
> 
> Thanks for your pointers and kind help, much appreciated!


And pushed in with the correct orientation - check other pins or twist 90 degrees - it will lock in :wink:


----------



## JohnnyFarmer

So it appear I have an even earlier CECM - 
Address 09: Cent. Elect. HW: 8P0 907 279 H
It will accept the 00 Byte change to enable footwell lighting but the 24th byte (the last filled byte labelled 23 as I presume we start counting @ 00) reads 02 & won't accept any change I've tried. When footwell enabled I can see it in the DIS & alter brightness setting. Pin D9 Gives a 'hazard light flash output ie when lock/unlock and activating hazards. Pin B7 is occupied with 2 wires & does not give output. 
My options:
1-Use dome light feed (current plan but no DIS control or ambient lighting at night) 
2-Replace CECM (rather not)
3-Offers of help with pins please 

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## ReTTro fit

Replacing the cem with a 30 byte highline is straight forward mate

So is tapping in to the courtesy lights 
But it's down to what you prefer

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## JohnnyFarmer

Thanks ReTTro - Which CECM suffix am I looking for please - I see a few 279K units on eBay, are these 30 byte?- Then am I right in thinking a matter of appropriately copying coding - but what about the other 6 bytes - will it be obvious when I connect to VCDS?

Before I replace I'll do one last set of stretches, get upside down in the driver foot well with an LED/multimeter on a stick and check the PINs - Hopefully I can get the repair wires back out with 2 paper clips or do you need the right tool? If I find an alternative output I will post up here.


----------



## tttony

My car has a 279K CEM (it is 30 byte high end) and I retro fitted footwell lights without a problem.

Paperclips are probably too big to release the connectors. A very small jewellers screwdriver will probably do the job or a set of tools is cheaply available.


----------



## ReTTro fit

8P0-907-279: 17 byte (base) 
8P0-907-279-A: 17 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-B: 21 bytes (base) 
8P0-907-279-C: 21 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-D: 17 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-E: 23 byte (base) 
8P0-907-279-F: 23 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-H: 24 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-J: 30 bytes (base) 
8P0-907-279-K: 30 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-L: 30 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-M: 30 bytes (base) 
8P0-907-279-N: 30 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-P: 30 Byte (Highend) 
8P0-907-279-Q: 30 Byte (Highend)

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## ReTTro fit

You won't need to remove the repair wire, it will be in the correct location for when you swap the module

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## MT-V6

K here too.

I made my ove connector remover by unfolding a paperclip and hammering the end to make it flat, it works a treat. But as above no need to remove it if it is fitted correctly. Do you release the connectors properly by sliding any pink clips?


----------



## JohnnyFarmer

Thanks for the tips. Yes I've I unlocked and un-clipped the blocks but put some extra wires in to test other un-used pins- have just bought a K version on eBay. When it arrives I might start a CECM replacement thread as we're off topic. Can anyone remember if there's such a thread already? Brief search showed how to for a mk4 golf.

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## misTTeree

A big thank you to ReTTro fit for the light switch info.
:-o 
Just finished tapping footwell lights into the switch on my (MY11 2.0 TFSI) on the blue/grey cable and earthing on near bolt, and it works a treat!  
I've opted for non-leds which means that they're not so bright, which suits me.

Late addition: just drove in the dark and the lights also work with the dimmer - happy days...
cheers ReTTro fit - good advice.

The panel underneath the steering wheel was a lot easier to remove than I originally thought.
Thanks to everybody [smiley=gossip.gif] for their input in this thread, it makes interesting and worthwhile reading [smiley=book2.gif] , and certainly helped me to get the job done.
Thank you


----------



## MT-V6

I have just updated my post https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 3#p7268273 with more details and photos as I rewired my lights to pass through the glovebox 8 pin connector, and also to prepare for rear footwell lights


----------



## chrislam

Hi guys, I know this an old thread but I'm hoping you might be able to help. I've done the wiring and the footwell lights work in my TT 2007 8J ...... however they are very dim with normal bulb units. I then bought some led units from eBay ( https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2992839416 ) and when I plug 1 into the drivers side it's super bright and when I remove the traditional bulb one on the passenger side and plug in the led one they both go very dim. Any ideas what I've done wrong?

Cheers in advance, Chris.


----------



## IPG3.6

MT-V6 said:


> *How to: retrofit front footwell lighting on a prefacelift TT*
> 
> I finished fitting the front footwell lights today, and here is the definitive guide for prefacelift cars (central electric module (CECM) 8P0 907 279 K), as there is some confusion in earlier posts.
> 
> Parts needed:
> 8J0 947 409 A - White LED light
> 4B0 971 832 - Flat two pin connector (for lights)
> 000 979 009 E - Wire set with square pins (for above connectors) x2 *or* TE 963715-1 x4
> 000 979 150 E - Wire set with clamp pins (for CECM) x1
> Eyelet ground terminal x1
> 12v twin wire, about 2 metres
> 
> Fitting
> Use in conjunction with above posts and this guide for the A3 in terms of fitting.
> 
> Remove a small bolt that is secured to solid metal around the steering column and bolt it through the eyelet. I added an M6 bolt just above the CECM as there are some threaded holes there. This is the ground feed and goes to pin 1 of the LED lights.
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> 
> The correct CECM pin is block D, pin 9. The block letters are embossed, but you will need a torch to be able to see them. There is a large red lever which you need to slide in order to release the blocks, and a smaller pink tab on the block which will allow you to add a pin. This is the positive feed and goes to pin 2 of the lights.
> 
> CECM block D loosened ready for the new pin to be added:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> 
> Now you can split these wires into two and feed each end to each side of the dashboard.
> 
> I chose to go a step further and wire the passenger side through the 8 pin glovebox connector as OEM, so the footwell light doesn't need to be disconnected separately. This meant I didn't need to feed earth to the passenger side. The wiring for this is the positive feed should go to pin 3 of this connector, using pin 000 979 019 E (I used TE 963710-1). Then in the glovebox loom, splice a wire into pin 3 for earth, and fit a wire into pin 3 for positive using pin 000 979 020 E (I used TE 964270-2).
> 
> The light wired into the glovebox loom:
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> I also fed wires from the drivers side light down the side of the footwell to underneath the drivers seat ready to fit rear footwell lights: https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=987401.
> 
> VCDS Coding
> Cent. Elect-09 - Long Coding
> 
> Byte 0 - enable 'Footwell Lights installed'[/*]
> Byte 24 - manually change from 00 to 80[/*]
> 
> There is an extra option under byte 25 called 'Lamp Diagnosis for Footwell Lights inactive (for LED Footwell Lights)', which I initially tried but the code is out of range and cannot be saved. However, it is not required and the LEDs work fine, without creating any fault codes.
> 
> You will probably need to do a full scan after installation and clear any faults created by unplugging the light switch and passenger airbag switch if applicable.
> 
> Usage
> The footwell lights will fade on and off with the courtesy lights when the doors are opened and closed. The default brightness is 30%, however this can be changed in the DIS:
> 
> View attachment 5


I have done this but my foot wells don't seem to work properly - I am assuming on door open they should stay on ie. at the same time as the centre map lights. Mine are turning on for maybe a second then turn off.

Could wire thickness be playing a part in this?? I used 7.5a rated wire for some the run or maybe my ground is not thick enough?

I picked up the LED unit out of a wreck Q3 so they are genuine Audi part.


----------



## MT-V6

Probably not using enough power and they are being cut off. Try wiring a different light up, preferably non LED, just to confirm


----------



## IPG3.6

I"ll have to double check what PN they are but i found this info which is interesting

I did notice that when bench testing they do not go red when reversing the polarity.... so i may have the 4E0 ones and not the 8J ones... (which are, naturally, the better option)









Source: http://www.passatplus.de/umbauteile/leuchten/leuchten.htm


----------



## MT-V6

Is the back of the case black or white? That's the biggest visual difference I think

The white backed ones are a lot brighter as as well, see the part numbers I used in my post in the thread somewhere.

I also added rear ones if you fancy taking it further, there are cutouts in the seat bases that were never used


----------



## IPG3.6

MT-V6 said:


> Is the back of the case black or white? That's the biggest visual difference I think
> 
> The white backed ones are a lot brighter as as well, see the part numbers I used in my post in the thread somewhere.
> 
> I also added rear ones if you fancy taking it further, there are cutouts in the seat bases that were never used


The ones I have are black back ... maybe I will get the white backed ones before I tear out wiring again. If they light up they must be wired up OK.


----------



## IPG3.6

Is this their typical price for 8J0947409A ? why are they so expensive

:lol:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Audi-A1-8X1 ... 3920221384


----------



## MT-V6

ianpgonzaga said:


> Is this their typical price for 8J0947409A ? why are they so expensive
> 
> :lol:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Audi-A1-8X1 ... 3920221384


About £18 last time I got them. Not sure really, just the way it is. Some say it's not worth it and go aftermarket, but there are so many poor quality LEDs out there I just stuck with OEM


----------



## chrislam

Hi guys,

I've done the footwell retro fit in my mk2 tt and the below Ebay link is to awesome footwell lights. They are brilliant...... expensive if you want 4, but work a treat and you can get different colours. They are sooo bright but can be dimmed in the DIS.

I've done front and rear footwell with these, then did warning and puddle-lights, and then went 'tron' with the led rope! A bit much but fun! Oh and also added leds for door pull and door pocket, wired into the door card illumination from the widow switches.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2736590645

No VCDS issues and plug and play! I also added some white ones for the interior boot and glove box illumination! BRIGHT!!!!!!'

I did some leds up the inside of the boot, wired into the brake lights for extra visibility as well as VCDS fog on brake but need to sort the indicator bulb which is on since I did the VCDS coding. Any thoughts?
L


----------



## pedracca

JohnnyFarmer said:


> So it appear I have an even earlier CECM -
> Address 09: Cent. Elect. HW: 8P0 907 279 H
> It will accept the 00 Byte change to enable footwell lighting but the 24th byte (the last filled byte labelled 23 as I presume we start counting @ 00) reads 02 & won't accept any change I've tried. When footwell enabled I can see it in the DIS & alter brightness setting. Pin D9 Gives a 'hazard light flash output ie when lock/unlock and activating hazards. Pin B7 is occupied with 2 wires & does not give output.
> My options:
> 1-Use dome light feed (current plan but no DIS control or ambient lighting at night)
> 2-Replace CECM (rather not)
> 3-Offers of help with pins please
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


this happened to me (rear left hazard light acting like the footwell should do, footwell lights flashed with hazard lights). At first I thought that despite VAGCOM reporting I had a K CECM, I had the H version, but it turned out that long coding was simply accepting the first byte change but not the 25th one (numbered as 24h in vagcom as is zero based index). I had to manually edit the long string to change this byte. After this change it behaved as it should.

Not saying it was your problem (indeed, H version is 24byte) but this drove me crazy until I realized that even after geting the "coding ok" message it remained unchanged.


----------



## JohnnyFarmer

pedracca said:


> JohnnyFarmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> So it appear I have an even earlier CECM -
> Address 09: Cent. Elect. HW: 8P0 907 279 H
> It will accept the 00 Byte change to enable footwell lighting but the 24th byte (the last filled byte labelled 23 as I presume we start counting @ 00) reads 02 & won't accept any change I've tried. When footwell enabled I can see it in the DIS & alter brightness setting. Pin D9 Gives a 'hazard light flash output ie when lock/unlock and activating hazards. Pin B7 is occupied with 2 wires & does not give output.
> My options:
> 1-Use dome light feed (current plan but no DIS control or ambient lighting at night)
> 2-Replace CECM (rather not)
> 3-Offers of help with pins please
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> this happened to me (rear left hazard light acting like the footwell should do, footwell lights flashed with hazard lights). At first I thought that despite VAGCOM reporting I had a K CECM, I had the H version, but it turned out that long coding was simply accepting the first byte change but not the 25th one (numbered as 24h in vagcom as is zero based index). I had to manually edit the long string to change this byte. After this change it behaved as it should.
> 
> Not saying it was your problem (indeed, H version is 24byte) but this drove me crazy until I realized that even after geting the "coding ok" message it remained unchanged.
Click to expand...

Glad you got it working - really like my footwell lights - worth the wait. Also I found other stuff I can now do with my K version CECM like dim the DRLs with indicators & fog lights on for turning.


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## MT-V6

Yep the K module has quite a few cool features 8)


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## pedracca

*EDIT:* Doh, forget it. Went through the post too quick and skipped a pair of messages that actually state that module K doesn't light up while driving [smiley=bigcry.gif]




> Does anyone know if the K module has the interior illumination paired to headlights functionality?
> 
> I've installed them recently (they are not oem) on D9 pin + earth to the body and despite they work with dome lights, they don't light up no matter what % I select on the DIS. I don't think they shut off due to low resistance, as when I open the door again they do light up and stay on until they dim.
> 
> Is this because this functionality is only available to newer modules or oem led?
> 
> Is the red lighting mentioned in the post with oem leds the way to get headlights interior lighting? In that case, what is the "negative" pin? I supose that doesn't work when negative is connected straight to the body.
> 
> TIA.


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## MT-V6

As you noticed it does not, that is a feature of the newer modules (with different connectors)

You could get creative with the wiring and wire them to the illumination circuit in the car in parallel with the current wiring, though it wouldn't be controllable in the DIS


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## IPG3.6

pedracca said:


> JohnnyFarmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> So it appear I have an even earlier CECM -
> Address 09: Cent. Elect. HW: 8P0 907 279 H
> It will accept the 00 Byte change to enable footwell lighting but the 24th byte (the last filled byte labelled 23 as I presume we start counting @ 00) reads 02 & won't accept any change I've tried. When footwell enabled I can see it in the DIS & alter brightness setting. Pin D9 Gives a 'hazard light flash output ie when lock/unlock and activating hazards. Pin B7 is occupied with 2 wires & does not give output.
> My options:
> 1-Use dome light feed (current plan but no DIS control or ambient lighting at night)
> 2-Replace CECM (rather not)
> 3-Offers of help with pins please
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> this happened to me (rear left hazard light acting like the footwell should do, footwell lights flashed with hazard lights). At first I thought that despite VAGCOM reporting I had a K CECM, I had the H version, but it turned out that long coding was simply accepting the first byte change but not the 25th one (numbered as 24h in vagcom as is zero based index). I had to manually edit the long string to change this byte. After this change it behaved as it should.
> 
> Not saying it was your problem (indeed, H version is 24byte) but this drove me crazy until I realized that even after geting the "coding ok" message it remained unchanged.
Click to expand...

I have acquired the white backed housing footwell lights and am still having this issue.

As above my Plug B pin & is occupied which leaves D9 the only option. However it is not playing ball! I know that the wiring to the lights are correct because when i probe a 12V pin with my wiring they light up OK.

I might need to manually change something in long coding...


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## pedracca

ianpgonzaga said:


> I have acquired the white backed housing footwell lights and am still having this issue.
> 
> As above my Plug B pin & is occupied which leaves D9 the only option. However it is not playing ball! I know that the wiring to the lights are correct because when i probe a 12V pin with my wiring they light up OK.
> 
> I might need to manually change something in long coding...


Indeed, there are some nice posts on page 9 of this thread with all the info, including the long coding you need:


CECM H, earlier models[/*]
CECM K, most of pre-2010 models[/*]
facelift (>=MY2010)[/*]

Just make sure the new coding is correctly saved by re-reading the coding after changing it. I had problems changing both bytes at once and got this strange behaviour.


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## IPG3.6

thanks pedracca

My CECM is the highline "N" model so i have been following the "K" instructions


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## IPG3.6

OK so it looks like i had SOME temporary luck! hahaha

i removed both footwell light and changed byte24 back to 00 instead of 80.

This makes the rear left inner amber globe act as the footwell. It dims on and off as if the footwell.

So i've disconnected the wire that's in connector b/7 -which gets rid of the phenomenon.

I attached my footwells to B/b7 and it worked.... for about 10 seconds. Then something happened or something changed which makes it no work... Not sure what the heck is happening that it's so fussy on my car!

I don't get any globe errors with one rear indicator pin not doing anything either... any more ideas?


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## MT-V6

To partially answer our last question, it seems that only one indicator bulb unplugged will not throw an error. I have something weird going on with mine recently but need to do the earth mod to rule that out first

The 2 bulbs also share the same code name in Elsawin which is unusual, there are 2x M6 and M8 indicator bulbs listed. Weird


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## IPG3.6

I finally got there - either the pin I was using wasn't making contact or my ground wasn't thick enough.

I swapped the pin with another from a spare CECM I have, also used a thicker wire for the ground rather than Uber thin hook up wire. They're now working as they should!

I have them wired up as so

LED +ve - plug B/7
LED GND - chassis ground under the bonnet pull

My plug B/7 was actually already occupied - so I pulled it and connected the LED +ve into it. 
With the wire that was in there (a thin grey w/yellow trace) I plugged it into plug D/9. Which is a blinker signal.

CODING- footwell lights on. 
Byte 24: 00.

As mentioned it looks like changing that coding swaps these two pins around.


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## MT-V6

Weird but good that you worked it out and for others in the future

It's strange that there is so much variation between cecm revisions


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## IPG3.6

Finally! *eyeroll* it was doing my head in - two LED's and I couldn't get them working. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I think if I return the rear indicator wire to B/7 then LED +ve to D/9 and recode byte 24 to 80 it would also work.


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## GoCrackOneOff

Cheers for the guide, managed to add two footwell lights to my car today & coded in all successful.


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## Pittsy

I was having a good read through this post and have decided to give it a go especially now ODBELEVEN has apps for the retrofit now.

I am happy with the bulbs, holders and wiring I think but my CECM version seems to be 8P0907279N so am a bit confused as to which pin to use, could anyone please advise?
View attachment 489817


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## Pittsy

Had a couple of hours spare this morning and was repairing the glove box hinges so thought I would give it a go.
Wires threaded through, pin connected to D9, bulb holders fitted so all ready to go….
I then proceed to drop the trim below the steering wheel whilst reassembling and have snapped the wire off the pin😩
Is there any way of removing the pin from the plug?


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## MT-V6

Yes but what connector do you have? The small one used on LEDs or the large one used on the non-LED


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## Pittsy

MT-V6 said:


> Yes but what connector do you have? The small one used on LEDs or the large one used on the non-LED


It was the wire that goes into the CECM plug 👍🏻


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## MT-V6

Yes, you need to release the pins (with the pink/purple slide part you would have done to insert it). It's easier with a pin removal tool though you can bend a paperclip. I'll see if I have a photo to illustrate it

Would recommend cloth taping the wire or at least use electrical tape or a cable tie to attach to the existing loom to provide some strain release also


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## MT-V6

This is an old image I have of the CECM F connector, but many connectors use this type of pin release. I have since bought depinning tools to help but you get the idea. Flatten the ends of the paperclip with a hammer


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