# "How To" - 2-POT M4 Golf R32/ M1 TT V6 Brakes



## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

*"How To" - 2-POT M4 Golf R32/ M1 TT V6 Brakes*

The first job is to source yourself some Mk4 Golf R32 Brakes or Mk1 TT V6 Brakes. Not a massive job as usually there on e-bay. On occassions it may well be worth phoning the likes of reputable Vag Specialists, as no doubt they'll have put brake kits onto golf R32's or V6 TT's and know of someone who wouldn't mine some extra cash if you bought there old brakes off them. (Thats what i did, Big thanks to Awsome GTI in manchester for sorting me out there) I went for R32 as they are power coated blue, and a good alternative to my painted single pot 225 brakes 

So out of the box, you should have calipers/carriers/shields/pads and disks(depending on how your doing it)









































*Fitting*
First off losen all the components attatched to the brakes. (depending on which side you start with this may include the brake pad indicators)
The strip down consists of:

2 x 18mm Caliper carrier bolts
1 x Philips Grub Screw (Disk)
3 x 7mm Brakes Sheild Grub Screws

Releacing the brake line will take a 11mm & a 15mm spanner in opposite directions.

Once removed get the new caliper in there on the brake line... stops it from being a too mess where your lying.









The reason for the brake shield to come off is the Golf R32/V6 TT have large disks and need a larger sheild as illustrated below:









Install the 3no. 7mm Screws into the sheild on the hub. 









Upon lining up and tightening the Brake lines (with the 11mm & NOW 17mm (was 15mm on the 225brakes)) you'll notice that the brake line will no longer fit on the chasis bracket in the wing. Reason for this is shown below:









So how do we solve this??.. Well using a 11mm socket i managed to widen the hole in the bracket for a nice snug fit on the bigger lines.









Using the Little philips grub screw center the disk on the hub and tighten...









You can now, (using the 18mm socket attatch the new caliper carriers (with calipers attatched if you see fit)fit the 2 POT Calipers to the disks !!









Refill the brake system (BLEED IT !!!), I used a one man kit, (pipe with anone return valve) in a process of: fill resivour, pump pedal, check bleed kit for air and then repeat... and so on.... (NOTE: 8mm Spanner on Bleed Valve)

















At this point with one caliper fitted and one waiting to be fitted you can have a little compparison, Look at the difference:

















And thats it for that side Move round to the next side and do exactly the same... You'll find that this side takes you half as much time as the other as you know exactly what your doing..

NOTE: if your doing the bleeding with the wheel off... make sure you have enough support under the car to not bend the floor... there so many horror stories on here that i went super safe









*Congratulations: You now have 2-Pot Brakes, and bigger disks..!!!*

I'll get some pics up from when i clean the car later... as you can see we did the job in the pouring rain so not a brilliant time to do the job.. Also a big thanks to "mark_hogan" who kindly came round and gave me a hand... Cheers !!


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## cwiseh_tt (Feb 19, 2008)

looks good mate, principle is the same for the 4pot porsche conversion, with the added step of attaching the mounting bracket to the hub, then the caliper to the mounting bracket.

Regards, Chris.


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## roddy (Dec 25, 2008)

nice job mate,,( shame about the weather !!! ) so the caliper goes onto the original carriers ,,no need for bigger carriers ... and no "tricks" with bleeding ?....


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

No the caliper carriers are also power coated in blue, and come with the R32... No tricks with hub carrier ect though..  No, Didn't use any fancy tricks with bleeding, have got vagcom and can bleed with that via ABS pump, i belive but didn't use it.... Pedal feels fine better than before.. so always a good sign that a jobs been done right


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## bigsyd (Jul 9, 2008)

top job tony m8, why oh why is it when we decide to do jobs like this on the car the weather is crap :x don't suppose you cleaned the wheel arch and strut and wheels while you was at it lol :wink: :wink:   :lol:


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## swfblade (Apr 24, 2007)

Nice one mate. How much roughly did that all cost you, if you don't mind me asking?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

£275 it cost for the lot Obviously this was a sale from another customer at awsome GTI and they just brokered the deal fr me.... And fitted it all myself so that was FREE (well the cost of brake fluid)... If you look at new calipers/disks in this size it's over £1000 so a nice cheap way of getting better breaking performance... for the top of the range golf and TT.... massive improvement and grap on the breaks... i love it... fills the wheels nicely too.. still raining so not cleaned car yet :x but promise i'll do it today and put some pics of them up


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## swfblade (Apr 24, 2007)

Nice one, cheers mate.

I was actually thinking about just buying some Tarox G88's and some performance pads for the front, but that comes to about £300, just for disk's n pads!

I guess I'll have to look into this now tho :wink: thanks again.


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## mark_hogan (Jan 8, 2009)

I wish I'd known of this before buying the tarox discs and pads [smiley=bigcry.gif] oh well ce la vee


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## swfblade (Apr 24, 2007)

Wouldn't worry too much mate, the stopping power of the 312mm's G88's is awesome, wouldn't be surprised if it was actually better than the standard 334mm's!


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

Probally esasier if you didnt do it in teh rain :wink: Fair play a nice write up for everyone  
Did you use 225 carriers or V6/R32 ones?


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## swfblade (Apr 24, 2007)

the OP would suggest that he used R32 Carriers.


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## LuTTon (Jul 18, 2008)

Very nice job Tony!

I'm still considering buying some Porsche calipers... Maybe even going for bigger disc's too as I'm looking (maybe) making my own carrier adaptors to suit.

What info do I need to know about selecting a disc? Is the 5x100mm PCD all that's required to fit correctly?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

Bikerz said:


> Probally esasier if you didnt do it in teh rain :wink: Fair play a nice write up for everyone
> Did you use 225 carriers or V6/R32 ones?


as "swfblade" said The calipers for the 225 Breaks are single Pot... (meaning only one piston applying pressure to the brake pad), The R32/V6 Calipers are 2 Pot so two pistons...

This picture shows the caliper and carrier (R32 Vs 225) as you can see the 225 Carriers wouldn't take the R32 Calipers if you look at the size difference.... Didn't bother to remove the caliper from the carrier, only really need to do that ifyou changing pads, rather if your changing disks you need to take it off anyway so people tend to fit the pads in the caliper while the carrier is on.... SO hope that shows.... I









Know some people get mixed up between Hub Carriers and Caliper CarriersSo....

Hub Carriers = Origional NO BRACKETS OR ANYTHING 
Caliper Carriers = Use the R32 or V6 the 225 are smaller calipers so the V6 won't fit.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

swfblade said:


> Wouldn't worry too much mate, the stopping power of the 312mm's G88's is awesome, wouldn't be surprised if it was actually better than the standard 334mm's!


But with the bigger brakes you always have the option to upgrade them  only snag is they don't do the G88 in that size think it's the sport japan's only.... for those size disks..


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

ok here's a couple of quickly taken fitted pics to finish off the thread.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

LuTTon said:


> What info do I need to know about selecting a disc? Is the 5x100mm PCD all that's required to fit correctly?


Thickness of disk vs caliper... (with pads) Most systems/upgrade kits will have a method of match disks and Calipers, but if your making your own kit th 5x100 is first point of all then the caliper adjustment.. Obviously you don't want disks that are too thin.... as you may find your pistons don't extend far enough when you press the pedal... or they'll be fine for a while and then not touch... the key to this is the extension of the caliper... How far the caliper extends and the gab between that... To be honest it's abit of a art... and i wouldn't even like to make guesses on how this is all calculated... (likewise if the disk is too thick you may not get your calipers on (or may have to machine the pads down to half the size)

Best thing you can do is find the size of disks that the calipers pair with... get that Thickness as for the acually size of the disks rather than thickness, it doesn't really matter as long as you can make abracket that can step the gap and mount the caliper correctly... But be aware that you may have an area of disk that is not in contract with the pad.... obviously this indicates calipers are too small for disks..... but can still be used.... you'll just have a rather large section of corrosion on the disk near the hub until you hit the area your pad is running on...


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## swfblade (Apr 24, 2007)

tony_rigby_uk said:


> swfblade said:
> 
> 
> > Wouldn't worry too much mate, the stopping power of the 312mm's G88's is awesome, wouldn't be surprised if it was actually better than the standard 334mm's!
> ...


Oh absolutely mate, I was just trying to point out to mark_hogan that he shouldn't be too disappointed as the G88's in that size are awesome, and against the standard disk's will probably be better.

Still, I'll keep an eye out for a bargain and may contact some suppliers as you did, thnx for the tip 8)


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## les (Jul 24, 2006)

Nice work Tony well done, now about that top turbo hose of mine :wink: You says its an easy job well it don't look it to me :?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

les, If you want me to nip round and do it... Assume you have all the tools give me a shout... or come to mine and i'll do it... seriously it's not a hard job... as long as your on about the TIP and not the two hoses i did a How to on previously as don't fancy taking your bumper and headlight off....

tony
You got my number still haven't you?


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## SteveS TT (Apr 23, 2008)

This looks like a quality upgrade at a sensible price... Have you had a chance to really test them out??? Is it a big improvement over std?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

swfblade said:


> tony_rigby_uk said:
> 
> 
> > swfblade said:
> ...


Sorry i completely understand. where your coming from... It's just mark is a good mate of mine and decided to order all his kit and go away (whilst i still had tie bars and brakes left to order) My brake pad light came on and didn't fancy wasting money with new pads, one phone call later and they were sorted.... just had to fit them.... (He's only annoyed because i've gone and got something better :lol: ) he's got everything the same as me ya see so it's abit of fun rivalry :lol: :lol:

I wouldn't say the quality of the disks, be it grooved or drilled and grooved can compare to the force of 2 pots pushing on them... obviously the groovs tend not to get as hot (and the V6/R32 do get VERY HOT while i'm bedding in at the mo) it's also the difference in thickness, and that the disks, even though they are plain on the surface are handed as in between the disks are directional fins to cool the disks... rather than straight fins like the 225. This is because of the thickness of the disks... 225 disks are at 25mm and the V6/R2 are at 32mm therefore better cooling.... I'd still love a set of uprated disks on the V6 Brakes but thats going to have to wait a while.... But the Basis for a Very brake setup is now there.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

SteveS TT said:


> This looks like a quality upgrade at a sensible price... Have you had a chance to really test them out??? Is it a big improvement over std?


Still bedding in at the mo... but as you know this is required braking.... Very very Strong.... I'm a little too scared of Braking really hard as there are pretty strong i'd imagine the wheels will lock or the poor sod behind me is going to write my car off.... Gave it abit of a run on the country lanes last night and much more responsive... the other thing i've noticed is the steering feels alot more planted and there.... Think obviously because these are slighjtly heavier than the standards this is what i'm feeling... But not in a bad way.... you can deffo feel grip levels ect alot more... which gives you more confidence... Just waiting for a nice track day to come up so i can really give them a test run... Hopefully after tomorrows trip to EvenTT09 they should be bedded in and feeling EVEN better... (Even though they are an improvement over the standards now, can't wait to feel what they are like when fully run it :lol

Your right Cheap mod, Very Reassuring when you've upped the power of the Vehicle, if you braking from 100mph the standards had massivle brake fade.... I'd imagine these don't but not had the oportunity to test that.... Would Reccomend them to anyone, If you not going for a £1200 Brembo or similar setup, and don't fancy the porche set up, which i imagine wouldn't be far away from brembo prices but even if it's £600 it's still £325 more expensive than this cost me...and i'd imagine due to bigger disks and pads the lonivity of the brakes will increase as less wear under normal driving conditions, so thats saving money in the future....

The other reason i went for this set-up is i want my car to be a wolf in sheeps clothing, no big body kits, no non audi alloys, and no big calipers that look aftermarket like brembo's.... just little fine touches... and these brakes being the best Available for the TT Made by Audi (refering to V6) are good enough for me....


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## SteveS TT (Apr 23, 2008)

Well I think it's an excellent mod and I am actually looking on ebay right now!!! I fooking hate the brake fade I get now... almost puts me off having a proper play as i'm worried my brakes are just gonna fade... and thats with ATE powerdiscs...


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

SteveS TT said:


> Well I think it's an excellent mod and I am actually looking on ebay right now!!! I fooking hate the brake fade I get now... almost puts me off having a proper play as i'm worried my brakes are just gonna fade... and thats with ATE powerdiscs...


Go for it matey, my are bedding in nicely at the mo ad just had some fun... Gosh i love these..

Well matey all you need to know to fit them is up there... so hope the post helps you when the time comes


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

Hey All Browsing e-bay again and saw this SET !!! same as the set i got... really good move for anyone this:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-R32-F...trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1689|293:1|294:50 Just spotted these on e-bay, Calipers and disks with pads... (Used) Exactly the same as the ones i fitted... Only thing that may be an issue is the brake hoses have been cut (imagine thats a scrap yard for ya) this means you'll need good ridge brake hoses for an extra £60

Total £310 for disks, Pads & Calipers + Postage... Not a million miles away from what i payed...


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

I used this guide,.. however on my calipers the bleed nipples required a 7mm spanner! also rather than use a socket to widen the brake hose bracket, i used a dremel mini drill with metal grinder tool on.

follow tonys bleeding process and you shouldnt have any problems :?


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## Icemanfr (Jan 10, 2006)

Hi there,

does any of you has the reference for the new brake shields?
i should uprgrade my brakes with some V6 discs so...
Thanks in advance 



tony_rigby_uk said:


>


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

i run without them... :-D


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## SteviedTT (Apr 10, 2009)

I got a set of these calipers, EBC drilled and grooved discs and EBC red stuff pads for £457  They've been buried at the back of my GF's craftroom (junk cupbpoard) :wink: since I got them. Dug them out lastnight, coz I want to fit them over crimbo and noticed that they didn't come with the retaining spring that can be seen in the pics above. Are these a dealer part or can they be sourced from a good motor factors?

Cheers

Steve


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

ETKA 7.2
Splash shield for Brake Disk:
8N0 615 311 C = left
8N0 615 312 C = right

tony


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## SteviedTT (Apr 10, 2009)

Thanks for the help guys, I'll look somewhere else :?


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

..


SteviedTT said:


> Thanks for the help guys, I'll look somewhere else :?


sorry matey... i missed your post hes the info you need

ETKA 7 
Retaining Spring = 8D0 615 269 acording to this it's £19+VAT for the pair.. Hope that helps !


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## SteviedTT (Apr 10, 2009)

Cheers Tony


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## Icemanfr (Jan 10, 2006)

big thanks for that



tony_rigby_uk said:


> ETKA 7.2
> Splash shield for Brake Disk:
> 8N0 615 311 C = left
> 8N0 615 312 C = right
> ...


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

SteviedTT said:


> Cheers Tony





Icemanfr said:


> big thanks for that


No probs fella's... let us know how you go on, maybe get some pics up and keep this page going :lol: just remember when bleeding if you do it like i did you won't get air in the ABS pump.. if you take both sides off you'll end up forcing the air round the system and it's a nightmare to bleed.... one side at a time and it should be spot on...


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## Lilith (Feb 4, 2010)

Please excuse the necro posting.

I'm looking to do this upgrade soon. So this thread has already been thoughly read .

But, Is it worth getting the full front and rear set or just sticking to upgrading the front? From what I have gathered the mk4 r32 rear disks are the same size as both the v6/225 TTs(please correct me if I'm wrong). However on the bay during my caliper search I find 310mm rear disks.

My main question I suppose then to anyone who knows, is are these the MK5 R32 rear disks Or will they fit the rear MK4 R32 brakes? As I would love to look of 310mm on the rear.

Also cheers in advance.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

i would like to add:

make sure you buy quality pads.. i upgraded to the v6 brakes.. the 2 pots are very powerful.. one of my pads exploded at 70 mph!


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## Lilith (Feb 4, 2010)

Was going to go with "Red Stuff" pads anyway .

But cheers for the heads up.


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

EBC Ultimax discs and RedStuff pads on my R32 upgrade  








As for the rears, a good set of discs and pads at 256mm will suffice - I obviously went for the same as my fronts for match on quality and performance :wink:


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## Lilith (Feb 4, 2010)

EXATLY the setup i was going to run.


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

Lilith said:


> EXATLY the setup i was going to run.


If you haven't got the calipers yet, try and get one that has all the necessary hardware already (saves you money at the dealers), such as, calipers inc. anti-rattle spring, carriers and shields - although some people have done the set-up without the shields. Their job is to simply protect against the build-up of road crap on the inner face so it's entirely up to you.

All your current bolts can be used on the upgrade so that's a godsend. Always check the integrity of the caliper bolt sleeves/guides (cheap at the dealers) and the piston seals (expensive from the dealers but can be got cheaply through TT-forumer *beeyondGTR*) and can be a bitch to fit.


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## Lilith (Feb 4, 2010)

Cheers for the advice .

When I go to buy some I'll make sure I ask that it has all those things.


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

Rears on the Mk4 R32 are same as the 225 TT... the larger disks must be off the Mk5 meaning they hav a 5x102 rather than a 5x100 meaning the holes for the bolts won't line up....

only rear kit readily available i know of is the ECS that spaces the caliper away from the center, meaning it's only using the outer endge of a larger disk..


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## SteviedTT (Apr 10, 2009)

Was getting my V6 calipers refurbed at the weekend when I noticed one of my pistons was quite badly scored. Would like to replace it with a new one but the stealers will only sell me a complete caliper for £235 :twisted: Does anyone know where I could get a new piston from?


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

KInda strange that the piston is badly scored :? Are you sure it's not just the outer surface that rusted and scored (normal and nothing to worry about) or is it actually the smooth piston wall?!


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## SteviedTT (Apr 10, 2009)

It's the smooth piston wall mate, the full length of the piston and compared to the other 3 it came out very easily. Which means that air must be passing and I don't want to take a chance on it with high pressure brake fluid.


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

Bizarre unless there's something foreign trapped in the piston well. Anyway, you might find a motor factor near you that do a caliper refurb service. If so, you might get lucky and persuade them to sell you just a piston, otherwise I think you pretty much know already that chances are slim . . . unless someone has a V6/R32 wrecker with one decent caliper :?


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

Got myself a complete V6 front set after reading this post ... took calipers of the carriers and cleaned them up today ready for some fresh paint .. those clips on the front are kin difficult to get off :?

What's the best way to get them on and off without ripping all the fresh paint off


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

Don't have Bentley CD but have the manual so here's a couple of pics from it showing you the removing and installing of the clips that I think that you're on about:

















Hope this helps . . .


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

Cheers Rab ... I can also see the answered to another question ... torque for caliper pins to carriers 25Nm


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## rabTT (Nov 14, 2006)

No worries and if you chip your new paint just touch it in afterwards 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

never bled brakes before to change over calipers and fit fresh brakes lines ... done a bit of searching and seems so long as i don't let the top end run dry it should be ok.

Can anyone offer advice on the correct brake fluid to use - where best place to get it - and how much likely to need in replacing standard calipers with V6 and changing front brakelines

Thanks


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

Good Lucky Tatty. I never let mine run dry but didnt swap over in a min like some seem to. ANd I have to pressur ebleed master cylinder! Remember you cant bleed these in teh old fashion way, not that Im saying your old or anything :roll: But even me a young wipper snapper does it this way and found out you destroy the master cylinder if you do. Get a Gunsun bleed kkit for £15 from halford.


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

eh destroy master cylinder  obviously don't want to be doing that

ok so whats differnece between old codgers way and a young wipper snappers way - and what fluid do i need


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

Terry the difference is the system has to be pressurised to bleed it rather than just pumping the pedal

Have a look at this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=167038


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

Cool thanks Neil ... gonna search Bikerz cock up now :lol:

Sure I'll find it on here somewhere .. but is there a recommended fluid


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## TT51 (Feb 28, 2009)

Needs to be DOT4. Something like Castrol Response DOT4 is a very good fluid.


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## ViperOneZero (Sep 4, 2008)

when i upgraded my brakes to v6 calipers i changed and bled 1 caliper at a time.. i used the £15 gunsons kit... very good item... i used high temp brake fluid called 710 from a racing brake company who copied the formula of a leading competitor..

naturally bleed all 4 brakes not just the 2 calipers... i also bled the master cylinder..... the brakes stop like brembos


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## taTTy (Oct 27, 2007)

do you need to prime the replacement calipers first or fit them dry

Hopefully all my dumb questions will help someone else oneday :wink: and it keeps Tony's great write up active

Think though Halfrauds have got wind as the Eezibleed looks like its now nearly £20


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## tony_rigby_uk (Nov 27, 2008)

GunnerGibson said:


> when i upgraded my brakes to v6 calipers i changed and bled 1 caliper at a time.. i used the £15 gunsons kit... very good item... i used high temp brake fluid called 710 from a racing brake company who copied the formula of a leading competitor..
> 
> naturally bleed all 4 brakes not just the 2 calipers... i also bled the master cylinder..... the brakes stop like brembos


as gunner said... i just did mine one caliper at a time (otherwise it'll force air from the caliper your not bleeding yet to the master... must admit i never had a problem... as long as you don't let the level drop..

i can only go off experience though and the method i used seemed to have worked perfectly... (guess i'll find out if the breakes get any better after a fluid change)


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## Hollowman (Aug 2, 2010)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPLETE-..._CarParts_SM&hash=item20c69cc371#ht_500wt_947

Fair price?


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