# DIY: 2.0T FSI Cam Follower Replacement



## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

You're probably all aware of this:

according to the author of the DYI:

_This video covers the replacement of the cam follower that sits between the high pressure fuel pump and cam lobe on the 2.0T FSI cars. The follower is prone to drastic wear and can/will fail if not checked from time to time. A new follower can be purchased direct through your local dealer or online VW parts store, and the whole procedure shouldn't take you much time at all. The longer you wait to replace this piece, the greater risk you are taking for catastrophic engine failure._

http://vimeo.com/bysavko/diy-20t-fsi-ca ... eplacement


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Good reminder.... another preventative replacement now that the PCV valve and the diverter valve have been replaced.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> now that the PCV valve and the diverter valve have been replaced.


I haven't done those though  I read the new version of the DV is reliable !!!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Read many topics about the diverter valve. Took the officially recommended G version to replace my C version. I decided not the use the D version as I'm not convinced that is seals as well as the G version does with its rubber seal. While the G version may still tear in a couple of years time, it's fine for now. The original old C version was weak after 6.5 years, but not broken.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

will look into mine. as for the PCV I bought a provent catch can buthaven't had the time to fit it:

Conversion Plate









PCV Plug & Tap









Mann Filter


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

Is there a schedule as to when the follower should be changed?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

-:[KM said:


> :-":3dxswvri]Is there a schedule as to when the follower should be changed?


It's not in the Audi maintenance schedule. So it's internet wisdom so to speak. Anywhere between 20 and 60 k miles is being advised. I'm sure the type of use (short vs long trips) the oil used and remap or not or even a different fuel pump will determine how long the cam follower will live. We'd need lots more statistical information to really be able to give an answer.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> will look into mine. as for the PCV I bought a provent catch can buthaven't had the time to fit it:


Thought about it. But I think it doesn't make much sense any more now that I have 70k miles /113k km on the odometer.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I think it still makes sense. I will do mine when I get the only parts missing: the right hose and hose reducers + the pcv gasket. I'll try to do it this summer.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Let's see what the carbon build up is like when you have the endoscope. Then the next thing to discover is: does driving over 3000 rpm burn off carbon from the intake valves? And then: is the catch can helping to slow down the carbon build up?


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

I changed my cam follower the other month. The car was 5 years old at that point and had around 68,000 miles. It came out in a good condition and would have been happy to run it for another 10-20K. Only reason I changed it was preventative maintenance and for £40 was a simple thing to do. Car has been mapped the last 20K odd. The follower is only something that people would really need to check if the car is on the earlier revision camshafts which was on the 2.0tfsi engines in the golf's before the TT's. The other reason to check your cam follower every 10k is if you have an upgraded fuel pump as this wears them a lot quicker. I will post a pic up later of the follower I took out.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Mckenzie, what are the other parts you replaced before you did the remap?
I'm trying to get a list of the parts which should be changed as preventive maintenance.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT-driver said:


> Took the officially recommended G version to replace my C version.


Do you have a BWA engine?
Mine is 2009 BWA and it has the G version according to ETKA !!!


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I have a BWA engine too. Engine was produced in September 2006. Yes mine is a very early MK2.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Is it easy to check/replace?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I'd say yes if you don't have Popeye's arms. I did it by just removing the right hand side front wheel and then through the opening in the wheel well. Took me about 45 minutes. I believe you have access to a car lift, that makes it even easier.

It is handy to have an 1/8 inch ratchet set with some allen key pieces in it. Can't remember which size, 4, 5 or 6 mm or so.
Paid around 50 euros for the valve itself. G versions should be stronger than C versions and my C version wasn't torn yet. Perhaps check first before buying new to avoid unnecessary costs.


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## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

Anyone know the part number for the cam follower?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

06D109309C


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## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

Hadaak said:


> 06D109309C


Cheers. That's the latest revision? How much are they?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

not about vesion. price is here : http://www.europaparts.com/fuel-pump-ca ... 9309c.html


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

looks like the new version :

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/14 ... -2-0-tfsi/


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

Hadaak said:


> Mckenzie, what are the other parts you replaced before you did the remap?
> I'm trying to get a list of the parts which should be changed as preventive maintenance.


Depends on your year of car and mileage. But the DV is really the main weak point that needs to be addressed if you are going for a remap. As long as you have the supporting mods (exhaust, intake etc) for the stage you're going for then the car should be fine. I would recommend if you haven't already is to get at least a upgraded panel filter rather than the standard paper unit, main reason is not just for flow but because I have seen paper filters under higher boost start to warp in and deform. Aftermarket filters are usually much stronger.

You can start to go nuts with other things you can do but I would also look into strengthening up the lower engine mount. With more power the transmission and engine moves more and can stress the various other engine mounts quite hard, also too much engine movement doesn't do the car many favours handling wise.

http://www.awesomegti.com/car/audi/tt8j?subpart=444


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## beepcake (May 17, 2002)

What car do you have Mckenzie?


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

Here is a picture of my cam follower at 66,000 miles.



Not bad condition but you can see the DLC (diamond like coating) has started to wear in the middle. This would only get worse over time and by 80,000 it probably would be looking quite dodgy. First time i've checked it and would really only check it again in another 15-20k around the service time. The main issue's come from earlier 2.0tfsi with the previous revision camshafts or when the engine has an upgraded fuel pump which increases wear, at which stage it's something to check every 10,000 and more than likely replace at this point too.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Let's make a list here  
I'm not planning to remap, just to keep her running fine till the mk3 shows up 

1. The DV => mine is a G version (06F145710G) according to engine year (2009) an model (BWA)
I'll check to see it it is still good. what version do you have?
2. the engine mounts => your link has a list of them ! which ones are vital?
3. the air filter panel = Do you have a link, please?

thanks.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

and by the way the engine cover on the 2L FWD is a bad crazy design :evil:


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

beepcake said:


> What car do you have Mckenzie?


2008 2.0tfsi FWD  With a few modifications...



Hadaak said:


> Let's make a list here
> I'm not planning to remap, just to keep her running fine till the mk3 shows up
> 
> 1. The DV => mine is a G version (06F145710G) according to engine year (2009) an model (BWA)
> ...


If you're not remapping then really you don't need to worry about any of the above. You could look into the DV situation then that's more preventative maintenance which is fair enough. The filter or engine mount situation isn't really necessary unless your car is putting out more power than it was originally designed for.

That said I would go for an ITG foam panel filter if you're just upgrading, I'm sure K&N know what their doing too but I just prefer the triple density foam ITG use. http://www.awesomegti.com/car/vw/golfmk5/itg-pro-panel-filters-golf-mk5 And yes the design of the OEM airbox was really poor, fortunately they changed this to another better design.

For the engine mount there are many different versions as Audi change the design of the mounts often. The THS is a complete replacement and is quite harsh for everyday driving but very stiff. For something more compliant then an insert to fill the void is good enough.

THS- http://www.awesomegti.com/car/audi/...t-only-1-8-tfsi-2-0t-fsi-tdi-golf-mk5-mk6-etc
Insert- http://www.awesomegti.com/car/audi/tt8j/neuspeed-engine-torque-arm-insert-mk5-etc


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## beepcake (May 17, 2002)

McKenzie said:


> 2008 2.0tfsi FWD  With a few modifications...


Stage I worth it then in your opinion? I'm hoping to get mine done at Awesome in the not too distant future (along with the DV and cam follower to be on the safe side).


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

beepcake said:


> Stage I worth it then in your opinion? I'm hoping to get mine done at Awesome in the not too distant future (along with the DV and cam follower to be on the safe side).


I think it's probably the best modification you can do to the TT. Value for money it's the best mod around, and totally transforms how the car drives. Past stage 1 you start to get little back for your return. Changing the DV and cam follower is sensible. I would think about an upgraded panel filter at least and as said in another post that upgrading the lower engine mount is also a sensible thing to do, only costs £30 and takes 5 minutes to fit.

I would say that the clutch will be stressed more and you need to be aware that this more than likely would need changing sooner than before (unless you have the DSG which will be fine).


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

McKenzie said:


> the design of the OEM airbox was really poor, fortunately they changed this to another better design.


on what engine model did they change the design? 
I would into buying the new cover if it is available instead of going for a custom one... I thought of removing the current cover altogether but the air filer is in there


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

Hadaak said:


> McKenzie said:
> 
> 
> > the design of the OEM airbox was really poor, fortunately they changed this to another better design.
> ...


Yeah that's the thing, it's a complete replacement aftermarket job or just change the filter. I found mine was even letting in dirt from the side where it had split! To my knowledge it was 2009 the new air intake system was introduced, i'm sure it also would give more power too.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I have a july 2009 model engine but I have the cover with the filter inside.
Do you have any pics of the new design.

I found these aftermarket one: (for A3 but I suppose it's the same design)

Total : about 280€


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## McKenzie (Dec 25, 2008)

Don't have any pictures I'm afraid, it may be that the late 2009 models changed the intake design. The TT is different to the A3 Golf MK5/6 because it doesn't have a battery in the front so the design will fit but other intakes that are TT specific make use of the extra room in the front.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

a golf owner got creative and went the hard way :

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2632632


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Perhaps the design changed with the 211BHP engine? The design isn't the best for getting cold air in, sitting above the engine.... all it does is looking good. I believe the 1.8 version has a separate air box too. But no clue if it can be made compatible.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

follower changed. 79.000 km.


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