# Camshaft Adjustment VCDS (2L TFSI BWA EA113)



## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

TT is 174.000 km. Timing belt done at 163k km.
Here is a pic of the cam adjustment at idle after a 35km drive.
The engine is a 2L TFSI 2009 BWA EA113. 
If you have the same and if you have vcds please post your values.
Any technical info on these measuring blocks is welcome.
I have done some advanced measuring block logging. File are coming soon.
Why all this: I noticed the engine is getting noisier so I thought maybe the cam chain, the tensioner or the cam adjuster need some attention. Or all of them are crying for help 
The values I see look ok. What do you think?



















BWA EA113 Engine looks like this:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Anyone with a vcds cable and a EA113 engine?
Can you please poste the same measuring blocks?


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

Do you have facebook?

TFSI Tuning page on there will have the information you need.
I have a CDL TFSI and a vagcom cable so I shall try do mine. 
As you said 35km drive prior, assuming you did measured it correctly, when it was fully warmed up?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Hi there. I will check the facebook page.
Yes, fully warmed. It does show the same values even after a 5mn drive though.
Thanks for sharing your findings. 
I will post a video of how ny engine sounds on idle. I suspect the vacuum pump is making the noise which is annoying me. The thing is the vacuum pump on the bwa engine is right under the cam chain.

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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

I've got a TTS with the EA113. Can take a look tomorrow.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Cheers 

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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

Sorry this took so long. Here's mine at warm idle.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Thanks for the update.
Now let's try to decipher those numbers.

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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Any other volunteers ?


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## poder (Mar 18, 2015)

KW is for Kurbelwinkel (German), which in English would be CA or Crank Angle.
Since the inlet camshaft sensor only registers one pulse (position) per round, it cannot say how far off it is compared to the crank timing mark.
The crank's position, on the other hand, is monitored more accurately, so instead block 93 shows the reverse - how many degrees off the crank is, when the inlet cam signal is received.
For a freshly (and correctly) timed engine I think the value is close to zero (like yours), but that can probably change over time?


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Thanks for chiming in, Poder. I think you have a bwa if I remember well. I know my phase position number is pretty clean 
The cam adjustment numbers are also not that off. Can you upload a pic if yours if you still have the car, please?


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## piotrwalewski (Apr 3, 2021)

Hi all,

As I am about to replace the timing belt, camshaft chain, valve cover gasket and may other things on my wife's 2009 TT 2.0 TFSI with BWA engine and 170k miles, I should be able to post some readings from my VCDS afterwards - that's obviously only if I don't break it as it's the first time I will be doing it  
I should be able to update you in the next days/weeks, depending on my day job workload...


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Thanks for that. What a coincidence ! I'm also thinking about removing the intake manifold to be able to replace the thermostat without much pain. We are confined for another 4 weeks so I thought I'd do that this time. I have been running with an open thermostat for like 3 years. 
Any pics you take or vcds logs are a good help. If you need any help with steps to perform the job let me know. Steps, torque specs and stuff like that. I did the timing belt myself with the help of a friend. Mine is 177k km and is still driving great.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

If you have the time and the parts do replace that thermostat. If you haven't done it already.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Hadaak said:


> Thanks for that. What a coincidence ! I'm also thinking about removing the intake manifold to be able to replace the thermostat without much pain. We are confined for another 4 weeks so I thought I'd do that this time. I have been running with an open thermostat for like 3 years.
> Any pics you take or vcds logs are a good help. If you need any help with steps to perform the job let me know. Steps, torque specs and stuff like that. I did the timing belt myself with the help of a friend. Mine is 177k km and is still driving great.


Clean the carbon off the intake valves too! It's a painful [time consuming] process unless you have a compressor and a media blaster to do walnut shells, but is definitely needed. I'm currently doing this (among other things), will post up another thread and some pics of mine which I bought used with 185k km on it and I don't think it was ever cleaned 

As for the cam chain and tensioner, I'm doing mine along with the belt but I don't think that I have a problem with mine (belt def. needs replacement though). However with this many kms on the clock I don't want to wait for it to become one, might as well just do it now and get it over with. Anyway a test for whether it's the cam chain/tensioner making noise is get a long screwdriver, preferably flat-head. With the engine running press the metal end against the metal cover which is around the cam chain. Put your ear to the handle. Listen for rattling noises. If you have a real mechanics stethoscope you could of course use that instead :lol:


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

I will first inspect the carbon buildup and plan a good clean using walnut blasting. I don't want to spend a week scraping  
I have a stethoscope I will use to do that test. Thanks. 
Please post your findings and pics and tips everyone.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

As for the BWA timing belt I strongly suggest you lift the engine guys. It's a pain to remove the engine support and put it back without lifting the engine to clear some space.

This is for a Golf bwa engine:

https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/inde ... c=114338.0

I had to pull at the engine like crazy to remove and to put back that engine support. Follow the service manual to do it properly and easily.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Hadaak said:


> I will first inspect the carbon buildup and plan a good clean using walnut blasting. I don't want to spend a week scraping


Ha yeah it's a pain scraping, it really only takes about a day. I started late yesterday so had to soak the last one so just left it for today, going out to finish it up now. But if you have the ability to do walnut shell blasting, that's a _much_ better idea!



Hadaak said:


> II have a stethoscope I will use to do that test. Thanks.


I see you mentioned the vacuum pump maybe being the culprit and that's right beside it, so might be confusing where the sound comes from though I'd think they'd make a different sound. Still removing the chain cover after the vacuum pump isn't much more work so might as well inspect it. As said it's probably better to just change the chain and tensioner anyway, than wait for it to fail.

Thx for the tips on the belt, I think you _have_ to raise/support the engine from the bottom...at least everywhere I've seen says you need to.


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Yes. Plan on raising the engine enough to be able to get that engine mount out without losing finger or braking other stuff. raising the engine means unbolting stuff under the engine to do it the right way. I even think that I'm having some engine judder because I didn't do that and just pulled at the engine like crazy to put back the engine mount. I will have to go back under and see if the gearbox dogbone other mounts are not damaged. 
I had a vacuum pump O-ring failure a while back (75k km I guess) and used a 5€ RTV sealant to fix that and it is still holding fine. 
I will definitely go for walnut blasting. I do have access to a friend's shop with the required tools. I will just have to buy the intake port adaptor:
https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx-ca ... di-engines


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

While you are there can you confirm that you have easy access to the thermostat housing with the intake manifold off, please?
I don't want to touch the alternator and I see that even removing the alternator does not help much with replacing the thermostat the easy way.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Hadaak said:


> While you are there can you confirm that you have easy access to the thermostat housing with the intake manifold off, please?
> I don't want to touch the alternator and I see that even removing the alternator does not help much with replacing the thermostat the easy way.


Alright will do. I didn't even think about the stat housing TBH but I will take some pictures and reply in a little bit...


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

If you haven't replaced it already you should while the intake is off. I've been wanting to do the job for 3 years  
I even thought about relocating the thermostat or using an inline thermostat on the upper radiator hose just to avoid the pain of replacing that bidden thing. 
I have a thread about it here.


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Uh okay good news and bad news... You can get to it once you've removed the intake. Bad news is you _might_ still have to remove the alternator... I dunno if there's enough space to get the lower bolt but one can give it a try. Pretty sure this is the t-stat housing as the separator and oil cooler are on the other side (where the water pump and housing is on the EA888, by comparison):


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## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

OOH That's bad news :-(
I see how it is mounted now. It has two bolts and one of them is behind the alternator [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Here is my thread so you can see how it looks like [smiley=bomb.gif]

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1972929


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Hadaak said:


> OOH That's bad news :-(
> I see how it is mounted now. It has two bolts and one of them is behind the alternator [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Here is my thread so you can see how it looks like [smiley=bomb.gif]
> ...


Hmm you _may_ be able to get at the lower bolt w/o removing the alternator but I'm not sure, it's quite tight in there.

I've called it a day for now, though I did finish my carbon cleaning at least. Have to do Easter dinner and all... I can try tomorrow with a u-joint and/or other tools see if I can get a grabs on it or not. The picture actually makes look like there's more room than there is too!


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