# TT Coupe 2012 Audio Upgrade



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Hello!

I have had my 2012 TT Coupe Quattro for over 3 months now - it came with Audi Navigation Plus with MMI and a set of 9 non-bose speaker system. HELP is needed to upgrade this rather placid sound system.

I wish to keep the stock HU.

Would like to add a sub, amp and put in a new 3 way speaker system and keep the rest of them as it is..... Someone also mentioned here that adding a "sub" alone could make significant difference (the sound clearly lacks the "thumping" factor) - if so how to go about it ?

Can someone point me in the right direction - I would like to contact the gentlemen "TOSHIBA" but unable to send any private messages.....he seems to have plenty of valuable info esp about the sound systems.

I have identified the speakers - amp as well as sub - but have NO clue on existing layout of the speakers and whether my plan would work (that is keeping the stock HU and Navigation System).

Looking forward to getting your replies and experiences......

Thanks


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

OMG - is everyone happy and content with their stock audio on the TT ??? I cant believe this...


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## MarcF-TT (Jun 14, 2011)

Well I think the standard speaker set up includes an amp in the boot. You could split the audio signal coming from the HU to the existing amp and a new mono amp for a sub. Install a sub in an enclosed box or do as someone else did and put a shallow sub where the spare wheel goes.

If you want better then it's a case of changing out the amp and installing 3 way speakers. Some people will say change the wiring - do what you want but spending more on the speakers themselves will give the biggest difference in sound quality. Probably best taking it to a decent ICE installer!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> Hello!
> 
> Hello back. Not a lot of people do this for some reason. have a 2011 TT with non Bose (on purpose) and the sound is poor.
> 
> ...


_Good luck!_


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## YoungOldUn (Apr 12, 2011)

I think you will end up changing the head unit to a RNS-e (to keep to a standard audi tt setup) or any number of alternative non standard head units.

I understand that the latest RNS-e head units provide much better output than any of the other audi fitted head units.


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

pm sent


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Thank you "the Minty1" and to Tosh....feeling encouraged now... 8)

I want to get Dynaudio System 342 (3 way ) with Arc 8 sub along with Arc 125.4 amp..... may not make it too loud - but I am sure this will do the job for me in a decent way...dont want to touch the rear speakers or HU.

I have several questions - for example - would a 5 channel amp such as Alpine PDX 5 or MRX-V60 be a better choice over the 125.4 ? as this will take are of the sub as well. Another hurdle is to get an enclosure for the sub moulded - the sub basically goes into rear left corner where the current amp is placed - into that space - we got to mould the enclosure out of FG.

There is this aussie company who I think are really good "northfield moorooka" ...I even offered one way ticket to send one of their technicians down to Dubai - have a holiday - and do his install for me - but as of now no favorable reply.

Minty 1 / Tosh / fuscobal - would you love to visit Dubai ?


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Sounds like you are putting some serious stuff in your car! I am going try and fit the Dyna 362s in the front and have no rear speakers. Taking the door trim off today and looking at how to get the cables thro the door and the build for the woofer. Tweeter may go in the door or Apillar. Not sure yet.
I have just made two basic boxes to fit in the rear of the car for the subs and the amp will go inthe spare tyre well.

Looking at used Genesis dual mono amp as the Dynas are very inefficient or so I am told. Not sure on your amp question. Ypu would have to read up on it Im afraid.

I have the support of a top local installer in Scotland, so I will be taking my time.

Keep us updated and lots of photos


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Cool - hope you will be taking plenty of pics - do post them here. The 362's -can I ask - how much did you end up paying for it ? 
I am being told that Dyn Speakers are real class - HQ fidelity - as against many other boom boxes....all the best mate...look forward to the pics.....


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## MarcF-TT (Jun 14, 2011)

You'll probably get more useful replies over at talkaudio!


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## Americo (Jan 19, 2009)

Hi Marcf..I Had the same feelings about my 08 TTr..When I purchased and owned it for a month I knew that was the first thing I had to do. I wanted to keep it as oem as possible and with the top down on the highway I knew the sound would be an issue. Most of my time is spent on the highway to and from work and I love music along with the sun..so top down driving = poor audio quality. I took my car to an experienced shop and they suggested swapping out all speakers and adding a sub and 1000 watt amp along with a signal processor in the trunk. They had a guy who could make a sub shaped to fit right under where the top sat ...concave in shape ..and ported. It made a massive difference and anyone who sits in the car wants to know what the system is because it sounds so good. So adding an amp and changing out the speakers is a wise choice. For me it has been and with the top down cruising it is no issue at all. I can always remove the sub(pulls out) and amp as they left the original amp in it's spot..so if I sell the car all they have to do is reconnect the old and no one would be the wiser except that the speakers in the cabin are all upgraded. Do it u won't be disappointed with the sound.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

I have finalized the new setup - ARC8 Sub, DynAudio System 342 and ARC 125.4 mini....before commencing the project - does anyone know - taking out the HU (to connect the RCA cables) - would it disable anything else in the car - such as parking sensors / airbags or any other sensors / electronics...?? Also - what is the easiest way to obtain the "radio code" ?

In other-words - is the Radio / Navigation HU - "involved" in any manner with other electronics of the car ?

Appreciate your replies....

Thanks


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> I have finalized the new setup - ARC8 Sub, DynAudio System 342 and ARC 125.4 mini....before commencing the project - does anyone know - taking out the HU (to connect the RCA cables) - would it disable anything else in the car - such as parking sensors / airbags or any other sensors / electronics...?? Also - what is the easiest way to obtain the "radio code" ?
> 
> In other-words - is the Radio / Navigation HU - "involved" in any manner with other electronics of the car ?
> 
> ...


I have yet to change over my head unit. I am sure some of the boys on here will be along to assist you soon.
In the mean time, this is the way ill be doing it, unless anyone has correct/better procedure......
Before working on the car you should get a note of your radio code. It should be in the original handbook of the car. When working on the car remove the key from the ignition, then disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Leave car for 10mins before begining work. Remember the battery is in the boot, so if you close the boot you wont be able to open it as it is remote release! On power up dont turn the ignition on until the airbag connection is made or you will see a fault.
If possible i wouldn't start the car with radio out.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

No it doesn't and perhaps I would cover everything in Dynamat, and perhaps go to a decent installer as
your question wil only lead to more _issues_


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

robokn said:


> No it doesn't and perhaps I would cover everything in Dynamat, and perhaps go to a decent installer as
> your question wil only lead to more _issues_


Robokn, can you tell me if you have used the car with the radio disconnected, As I am sure someone on here started the car with the airbag bit beneath radio disconnected and it gave an error.
Comment on going to an installer is a good call me thinks. It sounds like Dudaitt is installing a fair bit of audio.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

I am getting professional help with the installation - main job - is getting the sub enclosure molded - the amp is coming out of its original location and that's where the sub is going - will post pictures in due course of time -

Thanks for your replies minty and Robokn...appreciate it very much ...just organizing all bits one by one now.... [smiley=book2.gif]


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> I am getting professional help with the installation - main job - is getting the sub enclosure molded - the amp is coming out of its original location and that's where the sub is going - will post pictures in due course of time -
> 
> Thanks for your replies minty and Robokn...appreciate it very much ...just organizing all bits one by one now.... [smiley=book2.gif]


'Professional help'. That sounds good and is a good idea if your not 100%. Take particular note for me on the speaker wire thro the car door to the main body of the car please. Sort of guessing thro' this myself at the moment.

I have made the sub boxes, the door builds for the woofers and trying to decide where to put the tweeters. I think in the A pillars.

Good stuff!


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

NO !!!

Leave the tweeters are in a good position, here is my old build which is being transplanted to my TT-S

Door Builds























































Subs



















And the tweeters


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

As far as i am aware, speakers should always be mounted in the same plane whenever possible.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Just out of interest for anyone considering putting tweeters in the Apillar trim, I priced them @ £37 +vat each, so not too bad


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I have some from a set of JL Audio ZR's including cross overs if you want to up the sound, I may even be able to get the mids, by far the best component speakers I have heard in a TT, and anyone who has heard my audio will agree its pretty good


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

the minty1 said:


> As far as i am aware, speakers should always be mounted in the same plane whenever possible.


Yes. But deviations from that rule can be compensated by delay on close by speakers.

The tweeters in the wind screen corners are in an ideal position. They help setting up the sound stage on the bonnet of the car, as does the speaker in the middle on the dash. As far as I'm aware Audi programs the amplifier depending on where the driver sits, as well as the type of upholstery. Given the hardware the standard sound isn't bad, thanks to digital processing.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

TT-driver said:


> the minty1 said:
> 
> 
> > As far as i am aware, speakers should always be mounted in the same plane whenever possible.
> ...


I spoke with a well known installer in Glasgow and he recommended the tweeters to be aimed for around the gearstick, although I am not sure of the height yet.

_Given the hardware the standard sound isn't bad,_

What is good about this thread is that it is generating interest in car hifi which in my opinion is good. Let me quantify I am not after boom boom tish, more quality is what im after.

Mmmm not sure about that one. The stereo is average at best......


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Hi Guys - esp Minty - Robokn - Toshiba - could you help me out here - do you have the wiring diagram / picture of the RNSE MY11 ? Somewhere I saw detailed picture and explanation of each of those wires ....Have you any connection / wiring details of the stock amp on the MK11

One important question....the Audi Navigation Plus with MMI - line outputs from this HU can be sent to the aftermarket amplifier - correct ? Would I require LOC ? Could one of the seniors please confirm ?

How do we confirm the compatibility of stock HU with that of an aftermarket amp ?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

the minty1 said:


> I spoke with a well known installer in Glasgow and he recommended the tweeters to be aimed for around the gearstick, although I am not sure of the height yet.


This is probably the right set-up for those youngsters who always seem to hang in the centre of their car, rather than sitting upright in their seat. Generally spoken tweeters are very directional. So getting things right is very important for a good sound stage. Listening to a direct tweeter sound in a car does mean that one tweeter is 2-3 foot closer by than the other. Not good for the sound stage.

The trick with the standard set up is that the wind screen is used as a sound reflector. That makes the trajectory slightly longer too, hence the difference between left and right relatively a bit smaller. But anyhow, you'll need a delay on the driver side for the best sound stage.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> Hi Guys - esp Minty - Robokn - Toshiba - could you help me out here - do you have the wiring diagram / picture of the RNSE MY11 ? Somewhere I saw detailed picture and explanation of each of those wires ....Have you any connection / wiring details of the stock amp on the MK11
> 
> One important question....the Audi Navigation Plus with MMI - line outputs from this HU can be sent to the aftermarket amplifier - correct ? Would I require LOC ? Could one of the seniors please confirm ?
> 
> How do we confirm the compatibility of stock HU with that of an aftermarket amp ?


Sorry cant help with any of this as I will be changing the head unit. I believe you can get a convertor which changes speaker levels to RCA. I know Genesis does/did one about £70 
http://genesis-ice.com/uk-en/products/accessories.php
MTX also do one. (MaXius uses this one)
http://incarunlimited.com/product_info. ... cts_id=899

Dont know much about these though. Someone else should be able to help you.


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## Toshiba (Jul 8, 2004)

Dubaitt said:


> Hi Guys - esp Minty - Robokn - Toshiba - could you help me out here - do you have the wiring diagram / picture of the RNSE MY11 ? Somewhere I saw detailed picture and explanation of each of those wires ....Have you any connection / wiring details of the stock amp on the MK11
> 
> One important question....the Audi Navigation Plus with MMI - line outputs from this HU can be sent to the aftermarket amplifier - correct ? Would I require LOC ? Could one of the seniors please confirm ?
> 
> How do we confirm the compatibility of stock HU with that of an aftermarket amp ?


Images are in the kb section at the top of the page.
i have the diagrams if you post me an email address i'll send them over.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

That's good news ! - Thank you !

Tosh my email is [email protected]

Why am I still not able to send you any messages on the forum?

I look forward to receiving the pic Tosh!

Cheers!


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Not enough posts


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Minty - the RNSe MY11 does NOT require any LOC .....the HU has low level output going straight to the amp - hence disconnect the stock amp - and take out the "leads" from that point and divert it to the new amp - this could be achieved with existing harness - This is the info I have from someone who did a similar job. The new issue now is the mid-range on the front doors - those speakers are not present "currently" on the 9 speaker non-bose system. I am putting new mid range units and wiring into new mid range has to be sorted -

Would one of the seniors be able confirm that this should be possible from the 32pin at the tapering end ?

Tosh - I am waiting for your mail on the "identities" of all those colour coded leads at the stock amp end ....

Thanks


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

I am in the process of looking into the mid range speaker problem. You are correct, if there was no mid speaker originally there is no cables present to connect to.
There is a 20pin connector which goes connects from the door and makes its connection actually on the main body of the car. 
I contacted Audi spare parts about getting the pins for this connector and doing it properly. I am out of the country just now so will follow up on my return. This is the best way to do it. You could drill through the connector to get your wires in, but I would not recommend it. I contacted another car hifi installer in England and thats the way they do it ! Glad I stay in Scotland.

I reckon the MD102 will fit with a total of 12mm spacer. What size of spacer do you reckon should be used? 12mm spacer looks like 15mm clearance from the window glass. I stll need to confirm that the original mid cover fits though 

If I find any info on the connector pins I will let you know I am not sure of the RCA connections. Someone else should be able to help.


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

I will be following this thread very closely as I will be doing my sound installation in May on my Roadster.

I hope this develops into one of those very informative 20+ page threads


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

For roadster have a look at my build as I am sure its about extreme as it gets while still looking OEM


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

robokn said:


> For roadster have a look at my build as I am sure its about extreme as it gets while still looking OEM


Yeah I saw your photos and it looks really awesome!!! I love your door panels however I need that little compartment as thats where I like to keep my Glock 27 (The joys of living in South Africa). The plan is to replace the door speakers with a nice 6.5" Component system with crossovers and then do a subwoofer install much like Americo has done.

The Other option is to get 2 of those understeat Active subwoofers however I'm not sure if those are any good?


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

I have to add this note - the Stock HU - speaker level output need not be compatable with all amp's....if it is not - that's when you have to use the LOC. In my case - it is ARC 125.4 - which will accept these low level inputs without any problems.

Minty - the midrange speaker - well first wouldnt you require a mounting base on to the door panel ? - probably best to get that from audi. If you get the part # - let me know please. As for the wiring - we will have to run a separate speaker wire to it for sure.

Can someone - Tosh / Robokn share any info here ?

Minty if you get some info - please do post it here.

Cheers!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> I have to add this note - the Stock HU - speaker level output need not be compatable with all amp's....if it is not - that's when you have to use the LOC. In my case - it is ARC 125.4 - which will accept these low level inputs without any problems.
> 
> Minty - the midrange speaker - well first wouldnt you require a mounting base on to the door panel ? - probably best to get that from audi. If you get the part # - let me know please. As for the wiring - we will have to run a separate speaker wire to it for sure.
> 
> ...


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Minty - wow! - that sounds like a lot of work - didnt you take any pictures mate ? if you can - do post them here - or can you email it @ [email protected].

Here is a picture of the Dyn midrange MD102 mounted on another TT coupe - is this how it looks on your door after completion ?


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

A question:

Let's say I was on a budget and wanted to upgrade the HU and the speakers only. Will the Audi non-bose amp drive aftermarket speakers OK? Or is this even worth it?

Thanks for the very interesting thread, by the way. I found it most helpful.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

MoreGooderTT said:


> A question:
> 
> Let's say I was on a budget and wanted to upgrade the HU and the speakers only. Will the Audi non-bose amp drive aftermarket speakers OK? Or is this even worth it?
> 
> Thanks for the very interesting thread, by the way. I found it most helpful.


Hi - I presume you have the MK2 - if so - the answer IMO is a big NO. The fundamental problem is the weak amp and lack of a sub.....invest on a proper amp first and then rest of the units. After having read so much in this forum - many have said that having a sub alone will make the greatest difference. But there the issue starts - you need proper power to drive the sub - wouldn't you?

Exercise patience - and when you go for the job - I suggest you do a proper one - which will make you content and grinning everytime you cruise on your TT


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> MoreGooderTT said:
> 
> 
> > A question:
> ...


That's sound advice. I was originally planning to add a sub and drive it via a mono amp, and use the Audi amp to drive the stock speakers. But, I think you're advice matches what my heart wants. It's my wallet that speaks otherwise. Plus, it's difficult or impossible to get any decent return on an audio investment when the time comes to sell the car. I might argue for 20% above the "blue book" value of the car, but usually it doesn't even work.

Thanks for your help. I love these forums!


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

Oh, and there's one more thing that bothers me. If I ditch the stock amp, I have no way of sending audio to the center speaker in the dash. Will I notice this?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

MoreGooderTT said:


> Oh, and there's one more thing that bothers me. If I ditch the stock amp, I have no way of sending audio to the center speaker in the dash. Will I notice this?


I would. And testing it is simple. Just cover the speaker with a towel or so.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

MoreGooderTT said:


> Oh, and there's one more thing that bothers me. If I ditch the stock amp, I have no way of sending audio to the center speaker in the dash. Will I notice this?


Audi uses the "DSP" Amplifier and basically fills the car interior with all the speakers and noises. I dont own the Bose in my car - and even on that - several owners have complained the poor quality. In any professional concert - the audio is from your front NOT from the rear. You use the center and rear speakers in a movie hall or for home cinema. Music in its pure form is never graded over a surround system.

Infact several experts feel the "rear fill" is confusing to human ear.

You are currently "aware" of the centre fill because of the digital fill by the DSP stock amp.

Pay attention to center and rear if you are going to cruise at 100mph and would watch a Gladiator DVD on your screen! If not - with a good 3 or even 2 way component speakers driven by a powerful amp - you will rock and will never miss the center fill err  speaker!

My thoughts only - I am sure there will be other school of thought - by the way you could keep the stock HU and still power the rear and center if you wish - but hey you wont enjoy a premium 18 Year old scotch - diluting it with soda for the fizz! would you ?!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> Minty - wow! - that sounds like a lot of work - didnt you take any pictures mate ? if you can - do post them here - or can you email it @ [email protected].
> 
> Here is a picture of the Dyn midrange MD102 mounted on another TT coupe - is this how it looks on your door after completion ?


Simple answer. Yes thats what I am in the process of doing. The installer in Glasgow(Scotland) that I have known for a long time, has guided me with this, and thats the way he would do it. And this guy is good no doubt. Basically you remove the old speaker/ adaptor and trace round it onto 6mm mdf. Then make the ring to mount the speaker. Use the number of rings as spacing to get the correct distance. Glue together. This is standard build technique for hifi installers and should be abosulately no probelm for your professional helper.
You do the same thing with the mid woofer. I will be fitting the 20cm driver which I believe is not normally done due to difficulty, but I am in no hurry. It should fit but will be tight.

Where did you get the photo from. This is very interesting. Is it someone that has done this himself? I would be keen to contact him about the speaker wire thro' the door problem and the thickness of spacers used


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

looking at this photo again, I am pretty sure this is the 7in woofer not and 8in one.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> MoreGooderTT said:
> 
> 
> > A question:
> ...


Don't quite agree with this. The type of system that Dubaitt is taking about is v. costly. Not everyone has the money to spend. I am only going down this route due to getting used speakers (still v.pricy) and a used amp. Again not cheap. The head unit I will get new, but i will be running no centre and no rear speakers. They are not really required. 
I would go with changing the speakers as a start. I was recommended Focal 3way speakers 165mm. The Coupe runs 200mm ones as standard, so you can buy a plastic adaptor at a push or build one. The speakers are still £350! I am sure there or other guys on here that have used different ones. A local hifi installer should be able to help you out depending on your budget.
The main problem I have come across is that very few guys have made changes to their tt systems and most of those that have, have had it done for them. I do not have that cash to do this, and have an interest in doing it myself.

Good link for adding a sub. MaXius is the man! Excellent work.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/bui ... grade.html


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

MoreGooderTT said:


> A question:
> 
> Let's say I was on a budget and wanted to upgrade the HU and the speakers only. Will the Audi non-bose amp drive aftermarket speakers OK? Or is this even worth it?
> 
> Thanks for the very interesting thread, by the way. I found it most helpful.


Here is someone from this forum who did the job - to the stock units he added the sub and a new 5 channel amp....user is DUNK - search his posts ....
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=261685&p=2224711&hilit=DUNK#p2224711

Minty - yes - you say it is v.costly - only if you go for the components I suggested and that too brand new. But I agree - it is not cheap - however if you can find out alternatives - which are available in plenty - at a lower cost - you still have the solution.

Sorry to remind you once again - hope you / installer is taking pictures of your install....

I am not proposing an "expensive" solution - but a beautiful - quality system - for those who like it that way - and it is not all easy for me to afford it - had to work, wait and save for a long time - before I could afford to pick up my dream motor - the Quattro....so far it has done just 10k kms - and I intend to spend a bit more to get a premium system - which again is a lot "*cheaper*" than what we would have paid for a "Bose System" from audi had that option was selected - right ?

In the immortal words of Jim Morrison - get the kick out of this life before the whole shithouse comes down man  !!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

I am taking photos, showing removing some panel trims and the start to the door builds. Nothing really to see at the moment! One thing I would say is when removing the door trim, it is very tight! Once i get a bit further on I will figure out how to load the photos. I am still trying to find a second hand amp. I am after a Genesis Series 3 dual mono, which are quite rare used and in good condition at sensible money.
Thanks for the link I will check it out.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I did a build guide before for this and can do again as my audio is going back in next week, Bose for Sale and RNS E


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

robokn said:


> I did a build guide before for this and can do again as my audio is going back in next week, Bose for Sale and RNS E


Robokn, Do you have info on the speaker wiring question about cables from the door to the car. I contacted someone at Huets very recently (dont know who I spoke to) as I believe they did your car before, and they said that they would drill the connector to get the wire thro'. I wouldnt say that was the best solution, although I have to admit I have been struggling a bit to get info from Audi about the connector and pins.
A second question then is how dow you remove the connector between the door and the door shut of the car. 
If you know or can ask the guys specifically with the two questions that would be appreciated.I look forward to seeing your install.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Sorry what connector??


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

robokn said:


> Sorry what connector??


I did not explain properly.
When you open the door of the car you see a black ribbed tube. This is how the wires in the car door get from the door to the main body of the car. On the body of the car there is a rectangular rubber cover about say 3in x 2in. Underneath this cover is a 20pin connector. I would like to know how
1. How to get the rubber cover off.
2. How to get the connector off.
3. Getting speaker wires from the car door thro' this connector.
3. If they are using Audi pins in the spare holes in this connector, what the Audi/aftermarket pin part numbers. I have been on the trail of hese pins with the help of another member(s), but I am yet to track them down.
Any guidence would be appreciated.
Cheers


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

Well, this morning I put down a deposit on getting my audio completely upgraded. It's rather expensive, but I convinced myself that I needed to spend the cash in order to get the most enjoyment out of the much, much larger inverstment that is the car itself. Without the audio upgrades, I feel like I'm driving a car that is only *nearly *as good as it *could *be.

The salesman made a good point that I think should be repeated here in these forums. I mentioned the fact that when you go to trade in the car, you get little for your audio investment. His reply: "Before you trade it in, bring it back here and we'll put it back to stock and then move your equipment to your new car." That's when I decided right then and there to go ahead with the plan. He's probably not even aware that his answer clinched the sale.

I'm getting new speakers in the doors and rear, an excellent amp and a subwoofer installed. For the head unit, I'm going with the new Pioneer AVIC Z140BH. Most importantly of all, I'm having the car doors and trunk lined with a product called "Hush mat". No more road noise interfering with my tunes.

Anyway, I just wanted to post the above not to brag, but to, perhaps, serve as an inspiration to the others in this thread that desire better audio. If you own the TT, you surely spent a good amount on the car itself. If you aren't happy with the audio but plan to ignore the issue forever, then perhaps you've made a very serious compromise. Just save up funds, trim your budget for other luxuries and invest in the audio upgrades. Live life with no regrets, as we only life once.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

MoreGooderTT said:


> Well, this morning I put down a deposit on getting my audio completely upgraded. It's rather expensive, but I convinced myself that I needed to spend the cash in order to get the most enjoyment out of the much, much larger inverstment that is the car itself. Without the audio upgrades, I feel like I'm driving a car that is only *nearly *as good as it *could *be.
> 
> The salesman made a good point that I think should be repeated here in these forums. I mentioned the fact that when you go to trade in the car, you get little for your audio investment. His reply: "Before you trade it in, bring it back here and we'll put it back to stock and then move your equipment to your new car." That's when I decided right then and there to go ahead with the plan. He's probably not even aware that his answer clinched the sale.
> 
> ...


If you have the cash then good, and it sounds like your installer is going to do it properly. The install that I will be doing will be such that it will be able to go back to stock. Its the only and correct way. Enjoy your new system and please give feedback.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Minty - here is what I found - you probably have seen this - if you can - check and let me know whether you agree that this is true for MK2 2012 Coupe as well ?

*32 pin connector (T32a), black, on digital sound control module J525.
*
*speaker/color/pin location
*LF+ Blue (T32a/27)
LR+ Green (T32a/25)
RF+ Yellow (T32a/32)
RR+ Red (T32a/30)
the grounds from the SII+/RNS-E are common, but split to 4 inputs before the amp. they are all brown however. they are located at:

T32a/24 (L/Rear)

Let me know please...
T32a/26 (L/Front)
T32a/29 (R/Rear)
T32a/31 (R/Front)

*leaving the J525 to the speakers are the following colors/locations:
**Front*:
- T32a/3 brown/red (L/Midrange)
+ T32a/4 Red 
- T32a/3 brown (L/tweeter)
+ T32a/4 Red
- T32a/20 brown/green (center)
+ T32a/21 red/green
- T32a/15 brown/green (R/mid)
+ T32a/16 red/green
*Rear*:
- T32a/6 brown/green (L/Mid)
+ T32a/7 red/green
- T32a/6 brown (tweeter, jumpered from mid @ speaker)
+ T32a/7 red
- T32a/18 brown/white (R/Mid)
+ T32a/19 blue/white
- T32a/18 brown (tweeter, jumpered same as left side)
+ T32a/19 blue


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Toshiba said:


> Dubaitt said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Guys - esp Minty - Robokn - Toshiba - could you help me out here - do you have the wiring diagram / picture of the RNSE MY11 ? Somewhere I saw detailed picture and explanation of each of those wires ....Have you any connection / wiring details of the stock amp on the MK11
> ...


TOSH - havent got any mail from you...could you please mail it at *[email protected] *


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> Minty - here is what I found - you probably have seen this - if you can - check and let me know whether you agree that this is true for MK2 2012 Coupe as well ?
> 
> *32 pin connector (T32a), black, on digital sound control module J525.
> *
> ...


Sorry Dubaitt, I am unable to verify this. I dont have access to the technical side. Toshiba is possibly the best guy.

On another note. I have test fitted my the mid and woofer and they fit. Just. Phew. The mid is very tight due to the grill on the speaker itself.
The MD102 used 12mm in total MDF, and the woofer 3x18mm and 2 x6mm (66mm in total give or take). Just need to figure out the wiring connector to get the wires into the car, and where to put the tweeter and that will be the worst over I think.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Dubaitt said:


> Audi uses the "DSP" Amplifier and basically fills the car interior with all the speakers and noises. I dont own the Bose in my car - and even on that - several owners have complained the poor quality. In any professional concert - the audio is from your front NOT from the rear. You use the center and rear speakers in a movie hall or for home cinema. Music in its pure form is never graded over a surround system.
> 
> Infact several experts feel the "rear fill" is confusing to human ear.
> 
> ...


I totally agree with your point of view, but only when talking about a high end HiFi set in a living room. A car is a totally different story though... 
What sane audio engineer came up with the idea that the ears were mounted on your legs? Speakers all the way down in the door, not even pointed towards your ears can never create a proper sound stage. Tweeters in the dash alone aren't enough to do the trick. Hence the addition of the centre speaker. Getting the mid frequencies up there on the bonnet.

The rear speakers add mostly mid and bass and by having a small delay on their signal, they make the car sound larger than it is. Just like living room acoustics add to the sound experience, so do the TT rear speakers. But the fader does allow them to be turned down if you don't like them.


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## Jem (Apr 15, 2011)

I did an install in my peugeot a few years ago involving a DLS A5, Boston Acoustics G5, Infinity Kappa 65.7's and a Pioneer X1BT nav unit.

At first instance, I would recommend anyone to have a good read through talkaudio as the user knowledge base really is world class when it comes to ICE (even though you will still get some rubbish being posted)

As far as centre/rear speakers, I took the advice to move the staging to the front and kill any sound coming from the back. The sound was never going to be great with the speakers mounted in their stock position firing directly at my legs, but the option to build baffles and start carbon fibring was in excess of the budget I had already committed to the equipment. Also with the poor sound insulation on the doors and the amount of road noise, most of the midbase was lost, so again a lesson learnt regarding sound deadening.

Basically no matter how good the quality of the gear is, it will sound pants if the install isn't done well. The rule of thumb to a good sounding system is 20% equipment / 80% install. It can be very easy to overly focus on the first and give little consideration to the second.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

TT-driver said:


> Dubaitt said:
> 
> 
> > Audi uses the "DSP" Amplifier and basically fills the car interior with all the speakers and noises. I dont own the Bose in my car - and even on that - several owners have complained the poor quality. In any professional concert - the audio is from your front NOT from the rear. You use the center and rear speakers in a movie hall or for home cinema. Music in its pure form is never graded over a surround system.
> ...


TT-driver - I see your point - but the fact remains that the centre speaker output is felt "because you are aware of it" and the woofer on the door along with dash tweeter are neither capable of reproducing the proper tones nor the amp has the power to drive them.

If centre speaker was important factor in car audio's - then we would have had several amplifiers available for this purpose. Can you name any respectable car audio amp manufacturer with a dedicated "centre" speaker output in any one of their popular car amplifiers?

We all remember - those two in ones and 3 in ones - with just 2 built in speakers - yet boasted "cinema / hall / theatre" effects - which is all electronic control and modulation of the tones by the amplifier. A similar trick is employed in car audios - with centre speaker for effect (i would call noise!) rather than pure music reproduction. It's an individual choice of course - if you want to keep it - and yes one could say I have a 9 or 12 speaker system in my car (that's what the salesman told me!) - but with a proper 3 way component system, a sub and a good amp - you dont need the centre or the rear - esp in small coupe like TT.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

@ dubaitt

Ever since we've moved on from mono to stereo, the mid speaker has mostly disappeared from the dashboard. Hence there is no room and therefore no or not a lot amplifiers that have a mid channel output.

But when looking from an Audi perspective, I think they've done reasonably well with the 9 speaker system in the TT. And if a cheap mid speaker is required to produce what ever is needed to cover the frequency range and the stereo spectrum, then I think that is fine. But I'm talking car audio here and mid range quality. (non car and possibly car with higher spec speakers, you are right)

I have yet to hear the B&O system of the A8. I don't know if that is any good. But still it has a lot more speakers on locations where, in terms of high end living room systems, there shouldn't be any. And a lot of sound processing will be going on too.

So will a grand piano stay on the bonnet when the pianist goes from low to high tones and back again? (phase errors, peaks and dips in the frequency range). And where will the sweet spot be?

For the TT, there is some room for a mid speaker too, close to the door handle. At least that one is slightly angled to ones ear.

I'll follow your thread as I'm a bit of an audio nerd myself.


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Definitely going to follow this thread! Ive ordered my Dynamat and will be doing an install myself in May.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> Definitely going to follow this thread! Ive ordered my Dynamat and will be doing an install myself in May.


What route have you gone down DRGNFLY? 
And are you bose or non bose?


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

TT-driver said:


> @ dubaitt
> 
> Ever since we've moved on from mono to stereo, the mid speaker has mostly disappeared from the dashboard. Hence there is no room and therefore no or not a lot amplifiers that have a mid channel output.
> 
> ...


_For the TT, there is some room for a mid speaker too, close to the door handle. At least that one is slightly angled to ones ear._ 
In actual fact this speaker is mounted flat to the door and not angled. It appears that way from the interior of the car, but its just a smoke screen


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I filled that with a FOCAL speaker to compliment the JL Audio ZR's I had


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

the minty1 said:


> _For the TT, there is some room for a mid speaker too, close to the door handle. At least that one is slightly angled to ones ear._
> In actual fact this speaker is mounted flat to the door and not angled. It appears that way from the interior of the car, but its just a smoke screen


I know. But at least that smoke screen allows sound to travel straight through the tiny holes into more or less ear's direction. From a speaker point of view, it'll remain off axis listening... 
And when it comes to DIY.... an angled holder shouldn't be too hard to create...


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

the minty1 said:


> DRGNFLY said:
> 
> 
> > Definitely going to follow this thread! Ive ordered my Dynamat and will be doing an install myself in May.
> ...


I have the non-Bose setup in my Roadster. I have ordered the Pioneer AVH-P4400BH -- http://www.pioneerelectronics.ca/POCEN/ ... VH-P4400BH










Im deciding whether to go for Hertz, Polk Audio, JBL or Rockford Fosgate components for the doors and behind the seats - All I'm doing is replacing the factory speakers.

The Next Stage would be where to place the Subwoofer - I'll dummy fit a box in the boot and see how that sounds, if it sounds good then I'll have a custom box made to fit in the back right up against the firewall. If that doesnt work then I'll look at other alternatives - maybe understeat active subwoofers?

I will be going with a decent amplifier to power the setup - I believe that the amplifier in ANY setup needs to be top quality so that you can upgrade your speakers at any time.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> the minty1 said:
> 
> 
> > DRGNFLY said:
> ...


Sounds good, keep us informed and info about running cables/trim removal in the real world not just from the manuals would be great.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@DRGNFLY / MINTY

Do you guys got the "Audi Navigation Plus MMI" as your HU ? Why are you all changing and moving onto other HU? what are the benefits - The current STOCK HU provides the Navi, Bluetooth, SD Cards/ CD ....what am I missing ??


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> @DRGNFLY / MINTY
> 
> Do you guys got the "Audi Navigation Plus MMI" as your HU ? Why are you all changing and moving onto other HU? what are the benefits - The current STOCK HU provides the Navi, Bluetooth, SD Cards/ CD ....what am I missing ??


My unit is the standard Concert unit, without MMI etc so i couldnt say. I think it also depends on whether you like the OEM look or aftermarket. I will be fitting a new Alpine head unit to get RCA preouts and there will be sub control etc, but I am not interested in watching DVDs etc. I think aftermarket is the only way to get easily adjustable sub volume, crossover for the sub etc. Good aftermarket units probably uses better quality components also.


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Dubaitt said:


> @DRGNFLY / MINTY
> 
> Do you guys got the "Audi Navigation Plus MMI" as your HU ? Why are you all changing and moving onto other HU? what are the benefits - The current STOCK HU provides the Navi, Bluetooth, SD Cards/ CD ....what am I missing ??


I have the 1st Generation RNS-E in my car which i find useless. Once you get used to touch screen then using that knob to navigate the unit is terrible -- Just cant get used to it. :? [smiley=bomb.gif]

The iPod integration of the Pioneer by far exceeds that of the RNS-E. The other benefit is the Video player, being able to play DiVX or other formats.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@ Minty / Drgnfly

Thanks for the clarifying .... all the best.


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## MXS (May 10, 2010)

If anyone is interested, I have a double din facia adapter and the wiring harness adapter suitable for the Bose amped system for sale. Both items as new condition. £25 including postage.

Please PM me if you want to buy.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@MXS

What you are offering - presumably is something one could connect at the end of current harness connection point to the stock amp ? so that one could avoid splicing the stock wires ?

Sorry - I dont hold much knowledge on the wiring ...could you clarify If it is - then is such piece available to buy for "non-bose" amp ??

Could you post a picture ?

Appreciate your reply.


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## MXS (May 10, 2010)

Hi Mate

As you have described, it is a plug and play wiring harness, you can also get these for non-bose amped systems. Any good ICE installer can supply these, for pics google Connects2.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Thanks for your reply - but I am yet to find out an adaptor " that can be connected" at the harness end to avoid splicing....

Got another point here - when we change the stock amp - while keeping stock HU, one would lose the following - right ?

*1. Reverse Gear Audio Dimming
2: Speed sensitive audio compensation 
3. Radio Mute - if one is on Bluetooth and mobile is activated*.

Would any "error" code pop up ? Does the car's electrical / electronics be effected in any other "bad" manner to effect the performance ?

_Also "coding" via VAGCOM - and select Sound System Coding "LHD/CLOTH/DIESEL" on a leather seat car - would this enhance "bass" on a *Non-Bose *setup ?? Many seems to have benefited by doing this on "bose" setup_ cars....

Lastly - theoretically - if one were to just tap out the speaker level input / output from stock harness - (and stop it being sent to stock amp) for the new front 3 way and route it through the new amp, while keeping the stock amp elsewhere "connected and powered" alongside - would the above functions continue to be "normal" ? Is this practically possible?

If anyone holds practical knowledge on these set of silly questions...could they please reply.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I don't have hands-on experience, but I have been reading up on audio matters.

As far as I'm aware, the digital sound processor (J525 in Audi terms) is connected to the can-bus and is the unit that is being programmed for the LHD or RHD/upholstery/fuel type. So it takes the standard signal from the HU and modifies it for fitting speaker/car combination. (flat-ish frequency response, relative to the background noise).

I'd expect

1. Reverse Gear Audio Dimming
2: Speed sensitive audio compensation
3. Radio Mute - if one is on Bluetooth and mobile is activated.

to be controlled by the HU, not the J525. In other words, fit another amp and those should still work.

By the way: many say the HU isn't good enough. So a real upgrade should include the upgrade of the HU. Secondly, never use speaker output signal as input to other amplifiers. Take crappy bits out of the chain if the end result should be better. So line level out, line level in. Not speaker level out, damping circuit to line level (inside the new amp) and line level in to the next amp.


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## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> Dubaitt said:
> 
> 
> > @DRGNFLY / MINTY
> ...


I agree 100%

The salesman tried to sell me a base model TT with the MMI system. The first thing I did was touch the screen. "Oh no! Don't do that!!!" I laughed. Really? Why? "It uses this knob here and these buttons".

*BLECH*

I told him I'd rather order a TT and wait 3 months for it to arrive than pay an extra $2500 for a system that I considered outdated, cumbersome to operate and OEM. If I ever pay for a top end audio solution from an OEM it had better be absolutely top knotch and this system was not.

Oh, the Concert II system is, well, OK for an OEM as everyone notes. At least with the TT you get nice locations to put better speakers. Placing a real subwoofer in this car is the real challenge. I'm afraid I'll be resorting to a box in the trunk (boot) to get the bass I want.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Most of the questions have been answered - coming back to one last issue with the upgrade - avoiding "splicing" at the amp end of the harness....

Guys - what have done ? did you splice into the "original harness" or found a way to tap the signals ?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I installed an active sub woofer (blaupunkt thb 200A) yesterday. In order to get some input signal, I just scraped some isolation from the speaker wires, soldered the input wires to them, isolated the solder point with tape and a tie rap or 2 around the whole set, so that accidental pulling doesn't mean pulling to the soldered connection. Took all of 15 minutes.

Earth connector that I used is the same as the standard amp is using. The +12 volts straight from the battery and with a fuse, obviously. The sub switches on or off automatically.

Sound wise: a bit more bass in the 40-60Hz range. The system as a whole won't go much deeper than 40Hz. It's more than good enough for me now.


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@ TT driver

Didnt you take any pictures mate ? Could you please specify your system now ? HU ? Speakers? If it is the stock non-bose 9 speaker system - how does it perform with the sub ?

Where did you place the sub ?

Could you please post couple of pictures ?


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

TT-driver said:


> I installed an active sub woofer (blaupunkt thb 200A) yesterday. In order to get some input signal, I just scraped some isolation from the speaker wires, soldered the input wires to them, isolated the solder point with tape and a tie rap or 2 around the whole set, so that accidental pulling doesn't mean pulling to the soldered connection. Took all of 15 minutes.
> 
> Earth connector that I used is the same as the standard amp is using. The +12 volts straight from the battery and with a fuse, obviously. The sub switches on or off automatically.
> 
> Sound wise: a bit more bass in the 40-60Hz range. The system as a whole won't go much deeper than 40Hz. It's more than good enough for me now.


They do look pretty good spec wise. Could you maybe post some photos on where you installed the active woofer?


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Dubaitt said:


> @ TT driver
> 
> Didnt you take any pictures mate ? Could you please specify your system now ? HU ? Speakers? If it is the stock non-bose 9 speaker system - how does it perform with the sub ?
> 
> ...


Not exciting at all guys. You're too easy to please :wink:

HU is the standard Concert unit, with some additional by-pass capacitors installed, like I described in another topic before. Bypass capacitors parallel to electrolytic capacitors improve transients (more sparkle in the highs, additional clarity).

All speakers standard, except for the tweeters, there too a bypass capacitor parallel to the electrolytic capacitor, again to improve on the highs/clarity.

I installed a larger electrolytic capacitor (10.000uF) close to the amp in the back, giving the amp a bit faster power supply. Although the battery is very close to the amp, I think it's power supply line goes all the way to the front fuse box first and then all the way back again. Difference isn't big though, so leave it. Not worth the effort.

Both channels of the subwoofer are connected to just the front right speaker. Front as I expect that these speakers get the full range in the low frequencies. The right because that cable was easiest accessible in the wire harness and I didn't want to touch the harness too much.

The sub just lays in the back of the car. Used a bit of velcro so it doesn't slide. And I can unplug it at any time in case I need the space.

Simple, cheap, boring. Don't get excited over it.

How it sounds? I think OK for a slightly modified OEM system. Bass got a bit of a boost with the sub, but I'm sure it's nowhere near enough for those who think the OEM system is sh1te.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

DRGNFLY said:


> They do look pretty good spec wise. Could you maybe post some photos on where you installed the active woofer?


It just sits there, in the boot. Yeah the specs look pretty good, but you know they are exaggerated. The 30Hz... well I tried it with a test CD and yes it's there, at -12dB or so.... It only starts getting alive around 40Hz. 140Watt peak... 70 RMS... so probably just 30 Watts continuous. Really, it's nothing to get excited about.

I just had the thing sitting in the attic, doing nothing. It was a perfect addition to the Civic audio system. In that car, it fitted underneath the front seat too. No such luck with the TT.


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

TT-driver said:


> DRGNFLY said:
> 
> 
> > They do look pretty good spec wise. Could you maybe post some photos on where you installed the active woofer?
> ...


Im looking at fitting 2 of these in my Roadster. Behind each seat against the firewall hence wanting to know if they are worth it.

Its either that or making a box that fits in the boot - I guess ill have to try it out and see what it sounds like before going the Active Sub route


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Does anyone got a used working / non working MK2 Non-Bose Original Audi TT 8J DSP sound system amplifier 8J0035223 for sale ? I am willing to pay a max GBP 25/- just for that "female pin connector" to be taken out of that amp......please pass word around [smiley=gossip.gif]


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Finally a detailed Audio Thread to ask some questions :roll:

I have teared down the door cards from my TT to upgrade the speakers, only to find 8" speakers in front! I was thinking on putting the regular 6.5" ones but i am afraid that i will loose low freq. due to downgrading the speaker size.
Has anyone got any experience on the matter? I have an Audison LRX5.600 installed and i would like to use only the speakers and not any sub-woofer due to weight concern issues....


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## MXS (May 10, 2010)

puck said:


> Finally a detailed Audio Thread to ask some questions :roll:
> 
> I have teared down the door cards from my TT to upgrade the speakers, only to find 8" speakers in front! I was thinking on putting the regular 6.5" ones but i am afraid that i will loose low freq. due to downgrading the speaker size.
> Has anyone got any experience on the matter? I have an Audison LRX5.600 installed and i would like to use only the speakers and not any sub-woofer due to weight concern issues....


Installing smaller speakers should not effect the frequency, the 8" mids can be changed for 6.5" by using a spacer kit.

Have you got the Bose amp? you can use a small sub without adding any great weight problems.


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

MXS said:


> puck said:
> 
> 
> > Finally a detailed Audio Thread to ask some questions :roll:
> ...


Oh ok nice,

I was thinking on going with a 3way setup. Maybe a Hertz ESK163L or my first option was a 2way Hertz HSK165L. The spacer kit, i presume is a custom made one, yes?

And i have the regular amp/system with RNS-E fitted from factory :arrow:


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

puck said:


> Finally a detailed Audio Thread to ask some questions :roll:
> 
> I have teared down the door cards from my TT to upgrade the speakers, only to find 8" speakers in front! I was thinking on putting the regular 6.5" ones but i am afraid that i will loose low freq. due to downgrading the speaker size.
> Has anyone got any experience on the matter? I have an Audison LRX5.600 installed and i would like to use only the speakers and not any sub-woofer due to weight concern issues....


Hello Puck,
Ah yes as you say some info on car hifi. Not everyones taste, but still good to have it. I am slowly in the process of upgrading my system. Regarding the question of the 20cm Woofer. In my opinion its excellent having that size, but I would say that as that is what I will be fitting so there are no problems with aftermarket mounting depths etc. Most upgrades as you talk about are 16.5cm and are pretty much the norm. and having removedthe original speaker its hardly surprising they are not that good. I think it would be difficult not to fit any decent 16.5cm driver and not find a big difference. You will need to buy or make adaptors though. Best of luck and please give feedback on the results.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

For the subs in a roadster you can get two JL Audio 8W3's as the car is designed for both right and left hand drive so the sub space is the same on both










A tight squeeze but worth it in the long run


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## MXS (May 10, 2010)

Thats a nice install 8)


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

robokn said:


> For the subs in a roadster you can get two JL Audio 8W3's as the car is designed for both right and left hand drive so the sub space is the same on both
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wish i had this space! Mine is a coupe and the only possible location is in the boot :?


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

I came across this connector ..those who worked on the J525 amp ....can they confirm that this - if connected at the radio harness end- could help in avoiding splicing the radio harnss ?
http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autolead ... -9517.html

The description says (It doesnt mention TT MK2)
_Autoleads SOT-909 Audi Accessory Interface Adaptor suitable for:
•	Audi A3 (2008 onward) 10 Speaker & Bang/Olfson
•	Audi A3 (2005 onward) BOSE Quadlock
•	Audi A4 (2005 to 2008) BOSE Quadlock
•	Audi A6 (2005 to 2007) BOSE Non-MMI
•	Audi RS4 (2005 onward) MMI w/BOSE
The SOT-909 mute lead features original connectors on each end of the wiring harness, plus a pair of male and female ISO connectors in the centre of the harness. This allows aftermarket accessories with ISO connectors (i.e Parrot bluetooth handsfree kits) to be plugged easily into the original radio speaker cable._


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## MXS (May 10, 2010)

Hi Puck!... just use a normal boxed sub in the boot of your coupe!

if you need the space for carrying large objects, it is a simple unplug and remove, replace the sub when you have finished using your car to move stuff around :wink:

I have had this option fitted to several coupes including Merc SLK etc.... and it did not cause too much grief


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Dubaitt said:


> I came across this connector ..those who worked on the J525 amp ....can they confirm that this - if connected at the radio harness end- could help in avoiding splicing the radio harnss ?
> http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autolead ... -9517.html
> 
> The description says (It doesnt mention TT MK2)
> ...


I will take a pic from the connector of the J525 , i have it already gutted!



MXS said:


> Hi Puck!... just use a normal boxed sub in the boot of your coupe!
> 
> if you need the space for carrying large objects, it is a simple unplug and remove, replace the sub when you have finished using your car to move stuff around :wink:
> 
> I have had this option fitted to several coupes including Merc SLK etc.... and it did not cause too much grief


The thing is that i don't want to use a sub! I am aiming at the goal of 1150kg's with 500hp... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@ Puck

What are you planning to do with the amp ? I just need the "black plug connector" on the amp. Let me know.


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Dubaitt said:


> @ Puck
> 
> What are you planning to do with the amp ? I just need the "black plug connector" on the amp. Let me know.


I have taped the cables and connected the amp directly... If you remove the J525 nothing happens really... Voice commands and everything is there... Currently i have ordered some Belden speaker cables ,some neutrik connectors and some alpha damp to start with the doors... :roll:

I will upload the pic later, just haven't got the time to go and snap it


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Dubaitt said:


> I came across this connector ..those who worked on the J525 amp ....can they confirm that this - if connected at the radio harness end- could help in avoiding splicing the radio harnss ?
> http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autolead ... -9517.html
> 
> The description says (It doesnt mention TT MK2)
> ...


I told you i will not forget you...

Here are the pics promised :




























Now, on another note, since i have the car without door cards, i decided to pull out the stock speakers... AND...
Started taking measurements for the speakers.... Initially i thought that Audi had made our life difficult by implementing a 8" speaker to the TT... BUT as it turned out, they have made a 6,5 speaker to fit an 8" hole! Like the MKV GOLF

Since , i can't find some solid information on the heights and measurements of the woofer , i took it out and made some sketches so i can fabricate some mounts for the 3way speaker i am going for...









The midwoofer
and 








The woofer...


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Puck! thank you mate!

Great shots - just what I wanted to confirm about the amp connector.

As for the speaker sizes 6.5 will go in there - so should the bigger woofer. Just check out the actual thickness of the ring - and shave off if you have - to avoid having problems with the speaker grill - and closing the door card -.... I havent done that myselves..... Have you considred replacing those original "plastic" mount of the speakers with some mdf - that's the way you going right ? which you can easily cut out....many have done that ... as Minty pointed out - that should help in better sound ...and avoid resonance...

Great work...keep going....and details post here !!


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Hadak

Have a look at the connector ....


----------



## Hadaak (Dec 25, 2008)

Ok. Is this plug supposed to replace the j525 female plug? 
If so it should work.


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Hi Guys,

Can someone confirm exactly what size speakers go into the doors? Is it a 6.5" or an 8"?


----------



## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

puck said:


> robokn said:
> 
> 
> > For the subs in a roadster you can get two JL Audio 8W3's as the car is designed for both right and left hand drive so the sub space is the same on both
> ...


Like with any hatchback, you could still fit speakers in the parcel shelf. Use the entire boot space as enclosure.


----------



## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Not really done these days as people tend to steal them better off in a little enclosure even better if it they
are in the OEM positions


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Can someone confirm exactly what size speakers go into the doors? Is it a 6.5" or an 8"?


If you have a coupe its 20cm (8in) and a roadster 16.5cm.(6.5in ?) Not many companies do 20cm woofers as not many cars can take this size, so 165mm is the norm, plus adaptors to fit a TT coupe or make them. If you ask about adaptors when ordering the speakers it should be no problem.


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Yeah Ive got a roadster.. I dont see why the door speakers would be any different though?


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> Yeah Ive got a roadster.. I dont see why the door speakers would be any different though?


I don't know why either but see below:

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=208465


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Think you got a little confused.. Also 20cm in the doors, but thats if you have the BOSE setup. I currently do not have the BOSE in my car.


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Got my Mille speakers!!


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Puck! good going!

Here are couple of pics - if you will be satisfied with just a single sub - an 8 inch will fit in here.....surely on a coupe...but lot of work. - you can easily relocate the stock amp ....this is what I plan to do....the original work has been done by an australian company....


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

DRGNFLY said:


> Think you got a little confused.. Also 20cm in the doors, but thats if you have the BOSE setup. I currently do not have the BOSE in my car.


I have a coupe non bose system and I have 20cm in my doors, so I would go with 16.5cm in the roadster bose or non bose. To check untimately you could remove the door trim, or the lower speaker trim and measure.


----------



## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

puck said:


> Got my Mille speakers!!


Expensive stuff...

Hertz claims 35-25.000 hertz... at what point did they stop measuring? - 18 dB? I'm having trouble believing that claimed 35 Hz...

Now if it were 20 cm speakers, then yes I could believe it.... if there is room, 20 cm speakers is the way forward.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> Puck! good going!
> 
> Here are couple of pics - if you will be satisfied with just a single sub - an 8 inch will fit in here.....surely on a coupe...but lot of work. - you can easily relocate the stock amp ....this is what I plan to do....the original work has been done by an australian company....


Out of interest how are the volumes for unusual shapes worked out, as I have just make boxes for mine?


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

TT-driver said:


> puck said:
> 
> 
> > Got my Mille speakers!!
> ...


I havent installed them yet, i have to route some new cables and fix the aux from the rns-e properly...
I was looking for 20's but no one is making a kit at a decent price. Rainbow has a fairly cheap kit ~250€ but the other brands like focal, hertz, audison etc are not... :-/ Also when looking for 8' drivers, most of them have big cones and deep and you will have a problem with room...

Decided to go with the mille, and maybe add the 100mm midwoofer to the game...
Making the amp a 4-ch only for the fronts and driving the rear from the stock amp. Then i will analyze the sound with a jbl reference mic i have in handy and adjust the amp...

Time concuming for sure, but i prefer to do it once...i will not use a sub, even thought the one shown by dubait is very tasty...

For now some pics,


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

puck said:


> Then i will analyze the sound with a jbl reference mic i have in handy and adjust the amp...


I would find it extremely interesting if you could produce a graph...
Good luck with the task at hand.


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Puck, those are lovely looking speakers. Please post photos of how you go along? Ill certainly be doing the same when I do my install in 4 weeks time when I am back in South Africa


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Guys, should i produce some speaker mounts for 16,5 speakers and sell them?

Who are intrested in this deal?


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

puck said:


> Guys, should i produce some speaker mounts for 16,5 speakers and sell them?
> 
> Who are intrested in this deal?


Its up to you. Most of the guys that change speakers get companies to do it though. Probably more hassle than its worth. Not for me, as mine are already made for 20cm woofers


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

the minty1 said:


> puck said:
> 
> 
> > Guys, should i produce some speaker mounts for 16,5 speakers and sell them?
> ...


From what company you got them from? A kit or pieces?


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

puck said:


> the minty1 said:
> 
> 
> > puck said:
> ...


Hello Puck, I made my own from MDF. If you speak to the guys you got the speakers from they should be able to get plastic ones for you. If you handy with a jigsaw, you could do it yourself. Just remember to waterproof them with a sealer.

Good to see people doing it for themselves. Let the guys know how you get on [smiley=mexicanwave.gif]


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

puck said:


> Guys, should i produce some speaker mounts for 16,5 speakers and sell them?
> 
> Who are intrested in this deal?


I'm interested  would like to see more when you are done


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

DRGNFLY said:


> puck said:
> 
> 
> > Guys, should i produce some speaker mounts for 16,5 speakers and sell them?
> ...


Decided to go on another route :lol:

So ,

Today i started the fabrication of the mounts for the speakers 









Cutting 2 rings for the setup









Decided to use the original mounts with the extra wooden baffle, so the speakers had to be destroyed 









Test Fit 









The bottom of the mount has been covered in a foam for sound absorption and the upper part has been covered with a butane based glue so it can fill the gaps and stiffen up the plastic mount. Additionally the wooden ring has been mounted on the mount with 8 hex bolts  I will utilize the stock connector but change the cables with 12AWG speaker wire, i already have.

I am waiting it to dry and tomorrow i will post some pics from the finished product


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Puck, Thats REALLY clever!! Job well done! looking forward to seeing the final result!


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

puck said:


> DRGNFLY said:
> 
> 
> > puck said:
> ...


Looks good Puck. 
The oem speakers are a poor effort when you see them aren't they.
It looks as though you have used 12mm mdf. One thing would be is to ensure that the speaker will clear the door trim for excursion of the woofer, but guessing you have already done that. 
You said that you changed the speaker cable, is that right through the door into the car, or just for example a length of say a foot ie not touching the connector between the car and the car door.


----------



## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

On mine there was another hole BUT in the V6 they drilled out the connectors to allow for the 
cable to be routed that way


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

robokn said:


> On mine there was another hole BUT in the V6 they drilled out the connectors to allow for the
> cable to be routed that way


I have looked into this a wee bit, and on my passenger side non bose there are 9wires going into the 20pin connector, but the pin size is just for 0.5mm2 cables. I will be getting one of the yellow repair wires for to get the connection just to push it into the connector and join the speaker cable to it.
Not so keen on the drilling of the connector, but if needs must. Your car looks good. Colour is great


----------



## ahaydock (Sep 19, 2006)

Probably too late now but I am selling my custom made Audio Upgrade from my MY10 TT Coupe:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=267954&p=2258772


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

So, i think that Audi should be ashamed to put those speakers in the TT.... Clearly they are crap and even the stock speakers on my previous Golf were better...

Today, i finished installing the Mille midwoofers to the custom mount i fabricated :wink:

After the butane glue had dried overnight i painted them some matt black










And then having used the stock mount i carefully soldered the stock pins to the new speaker pins, just to finish it nicely










Having the base ready, i used some foam material to baffle the excess rattles that possibly would come from the speaker mounted directly to the wooden ring..



















Then i stopped air crossing throught the mount as it is double walled



















And used some of the same foam in front, for the looks and for any rattle between the door cards touching the speaker mount










Mounted straight away, eventhough the Mille woofer is 1,5cm taller than the door opening



















And here is an RTA sample i took, with stock tweeters, stock rear speakers and the Audison clocked in a hurry...I say pretty impressive that the midwoofer can get close to 32Hz without any distortion.










Tomorrow i will install the tweeters and the cables(possibly) and rewire the RNS-E so i can have some proper Line-outs directly from the head. I am waiting for the door deadener kit so i can finish it and tune it properly

Cheers,

Neo


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Puck, That looks really fantastic!!! Have you considered putting some Dynamat behind the speakers?


----------



## Deeperdish (Apr 20, 2012)

I've been inspired by this thread so going to upgrade the audio on my 07 TT today. I want a fairly low key and unobtrusive system so have gone for the following (please bear in mind I am a complete and utter newbie to all of this so if I have made any fundamental mistakes please be gentle)

Kenwood DNX-9260BT Double Din Sat Nav System with an iPod/iPhone dock in the glove box 
Kenwood KSC-SW01 Active 8-inch Underseat Subwoofer
Kenwood KFC-S703P 17cm 2 Way Component Speaker System in the front door

I've decided to leave the rear speakers alone and not upgrade the amp for the time being but could be persuaded depending on what I find out on this forum. To the more experienced posters (which in this case is everyone!) thanks!


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Fantastic work PUCK! with all the tools at your disposal - and detailed explanations - it will be very helpful for the likes of me (Y)

Deeperdish - many who are following are with no "technical expertise" or know how - we learn from many talented and experienced people in this forum.

If you go to Audi dealer - they dont hold this much knowledge on the practical front - they will have to refer to their manuals and will come back with a story - dont do that - dont touch that. I think the non-bose 9 speaker system is pathetic - take your time - go through the posts - and build the system! I am waiting for my units to arrive....

All the best


----------



## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Deeperdish said:


> I've been inspired by this thread so going to upgrade the audio on my 07 TT today. I want a fairly low key and unobtrusive system so have gone for the following (please bear in mind I am a complete and utter newbie to all of this so if I have made any fundamental mistakes please be gentle)
> 
> Kenwood DNX-9260BT Double Din Sat Nav System with an iPod/iPhone dock in the glove box
> Kenwood KSC-SW01 Active 8-inch Underseat Subwoofer
> ...












Do you have a Roadster or a Coupe?


----------



## Deeperdish (Apr 20, 2012)

I've got a coupe.

The work is done courtesy of my local installer. He was surprised by the size of the front speakers but he managed to modify some VW transporter pods and it has definitely made an improvement over the standard set up. The active under seat subwoofer was just what I was looking for, unobtrusive but just adds depth and warmth. The head unit is going to take some getting used to and I need to down load the latest firmware as the touch screen is a little sluggish but that should improve.

Can anyone fill me in on how much replacing the rear speakers will have to the overall sound if I don't replace the amp?

Thanks for the warm welcome!


----------



## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

On Friday evening, I finally got my car back from the Audio installation crew. Wow... What a transformation. The JL Audio speakers, amplifier and subwooferreally brought the car to life.

I knew my car was in need of some improved bass, but now that it is done I'm astonished at how much better it is.

They used a product called "Hush Matt", to stiffen up the panels to reduce road noise. While the car is not yet Lexus quiet, it is remarkedly improved. Additionally, even with the bass booming the panels don't vibrate and counteract the soundwaves or create unwanted buzzes. I highly recommend the stuff. The only downside is that it is also reduced the exhaust noise.

The replacement head unit, Pioneed AVIC Z140BH, has some flaws in my opinion. The buttons on the front are very cheeply made; They are just a film of plastic with some raised shapes over micro buttons underneath. It looks a bit out of place in my car. I also can't change the screen background colors, and instead must live with blue. At least I can change the button illumination to Red. But, the sound quality sent to the amplifier is outstanding. I haven't had a chance to test out the navigation features yet.

Photographs aren't really necessary. There's nothing really to see other than the same dash kit and 7inch screen image posted numerously on these forums. The subwoofer box is nothing special to look at either, but WOW does it produce!

The stearing wheel controls they installed didn't work at all. I will have them attempt a Connects2 solution in the near future. I do worry that they will have to ditch the entire metra harness though, since you don't normally buy just the Connects2 steering wheel control module.

All in all, I think this is what was need to make the car what I originally expected it to be. I spent a good deal of money on this, but it is well worth it.


----------



## MoreGooderTT (Aug 20, 2011)

Deeperdish said:


> I've got a coupe.
> 
> The work is done courtesy of my local installer. He was surprised by the size of the front speakers but he managed to modify some VW transporter pods and it has definitely made an improvement over the standard set up. The active under seat subwoofer was just what I was looking for, unobtrusive but just adds depth and warmth. The head unit is going to take some getting used to and I need to down load the latest firmware as the touch screen is a little sluggish but that should improve.
> 
> ...


I can't answer the specific question, however you should consider putting some hush matt or similar material in the cavity behind the speaker, and around the speaker mount. This will greatly improve the situation. It might also improve the current OEM speaker.


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

I decided to make it in parts, because i am doing it slowly and step by step.. 

So after mounting the woofers, i had to finish it nicely.. Dynamat xtreme was laid inside and outside the door.










Special care was given to fix the horrible rattles that both window mechanisms are producing on low Hz...










Audison Ultra Flat Competition 14awg speaker cables were routed throught the door jams , then under the carper and finally to the rear of the car were the amp is.























































Additional Audison professional grade 18awg cables were routed for the tweeters that will be mounted flush on top of the stock grill.

For anyone doing this alone, here are my measurements on cables and dynamat.

For the cables you need 18meters for both woofer and tweeter on both sides. Add 9 more if you are going for a 3 way setup and mounting the crossovers in the rear next to the amp. Each side is 4,5mtrs till the center of the boot

Then for the dynamat, if you get the xtreme door kit. You can get it all done and have one full dynamat sheet left. (3 out of 4). The inside of the door is exactly one sheet and the outside is half. You should put some behind the speaker mount and with the piece remaining from the speaker hole, remove the midwoofer cover and put it there...

For the speaker mounts, the diameter of the ring should be 187mm and the height 14mm. BUT, for a flush fit i went with a 10mm wooden ring, so i wont have any clearance problems.... The center hole should be the diameter of the cone(obviously) and the height of the speaker should not be over 85mm(depending on the cone) because the door mechanism is blocking the way 

Next part will be about mounting the tweeters..

Cheers,

Neo


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@ PUCK - you said _"Audison Ultra Flat Competition 14awg speaker cables were routed throught the door jams , then under the carper and finally to the rear of the car were the amp is"_

Routing the speaker cables through the door jams - how simple / complicated was it ? was there enough space for you to slide in the cable ? I was planning on drilling through one of the pins on the actual connector that wasnt being used....

great to see your progress mate


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Dubaitt said:


> @ PUCK - you said _"Audison Ultra Flat Competition 14awg speaker cables were routed throught the door jams , then under the carper and finally to the rear of the car were the amp is"_
> 
> Routing the speaker cables through the door jams - how simple / complicated was it ? was there enough space for you to slide in the cable ? I was planning on drilling through one of the pins on the actual connector that wasnt being used....
> 
> great to see your progress mate


Like he said, but a couple of specfic questions.
On the car main body side, did you do use the same method as you showed on the car door side? Do you think there is enough space for 4cables in total to go thro' the door without drilling. Any photos of the cable going thro' the main car body side?

You have obviously thought things through before doing this, but I notice that you did not fit any Dynamat on the black plastic cover for the window mechanism, any reason why?
Did you disconnect the battery before taking the multi plug off?

Good work!


----------



## Lyons (May 12, 2010)

I know this will have been covered before, but to save me searching can someone tell me if any additional adapters are required when connecting an aftermarket HU to a car with Bose, or just the normal?


----------



## MXS (May 10, 2010)

Lyons said:


> I know this will have been covered before, but to save me searching can someone tell me if any additional adapters are required when connecting an aftermarket HU to a car with Bose, or just the normal?


Lyons, I have sent you a PM. I have all the adapters you need which I will let you have at a good price :wink:


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Dubaitt said:


> @ PUCK - you said _"Audison Ultra Flat Competition 14awg speaker cables were routed throught the door jams , then under the carper and finally to the rear of the car were the amp is"_
> 
> Routing the speaker cables through the door jams - how simple / complicated was it ? was there enough space for you to slide in the cable ? I was planning on drilling through one of the pins on the actual connector that wasnt being used....
> 
> great to see your progress mate


It's kind complicated...

First you have to unclip both rubber fixings in the door jam. Then you have to unclip the connector, there is a small tab in the side of it. (drivers side - you see it , passenger side - its in the back of the connector.) MY car had a small hole under the connector where i could pass the my flat cable(i think that 2 regular 16AWG cables for Mid-WF would pass through that hole.. The flat one was a bitch to pass through the door plastic "hose"












the minty1 said:


> Like he said, but a couple of specfic questions.
> On the car main body side, did you do use the same method as you showed on the car door side? Do you think there is enough space for 4cables in total to go thro' the door without drilling. Any photos of the cable going thro' the main car body side?
> 
> You have obviously thought things through before doing this, but I notice that you did not fit any Dynamat on the black plastic cover for the window mechanism, any reason why?
> ...


On the main car body, you will have to take off the plastic part that is covering the carpet on the wells. Then you will see a spongy looking cover that has a hole




























As for the plastic part, when playing lower than 35hz the plastic part is not moving or making any noises, i have put some dynamat on the ends of this part so i can seal it off.

Part 3

Tweeters,

I had already passed the tweeter cables and they were inside the dashboard but not the tweeter pods...

Decided to give it a go, and what a PITA was to pass them towards the tweeter pods.... Learn from my mistakes, pass the tweeter cables first from the pods and then route them to the car....










So, the only part that is moving from the pods is the grill, don't try to pry off the air guide -is not moving- remove the grill and unclip the tweeter

My tweeters had two different chambers, one small for more crisp sound and one large for more homegenius sound... Since the mounting position allowed me, i have mounted the large chamber on both tweeters...



















Then took out my holeshaw and worked some magic on the stock grills 



























The end product 

Got my 5mtr Audison RCA cable for the Aux - Out and some Dynaliner for the doors , just waiting on the RNS-E adapter so i can have some decent cabling between the head and the amp.










For the meantime i will play them Passively from the Hertz Xovers. I need to make my Amplifier a 3ch and then play them Actively (my Audison has built-in Xovers) and play the rear ones from the stock Amplifier :roll:


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Puck most excellent reply. From what you are saying you could pass the cable for the mid and a cable for the woofer without any drilling. Great! I had almosted settled on running things through spare connections on the black connector, but this would be simpler if its possible. I had already removed the the kick panel and had a poke around. Some good tips also about the tabs for the connectors.
Excellent and good to see. Photos a million words.
Suggestion for the tweeters... spray the grille black for stealth look, unless you want them to be seen.


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Hello!

I've been travelling and out of town ....well - what's the status update ? Minty - Puck - how far have you reached ?

I've ordered my items :-

1. Arc Mini KS125.4 & KS500.1
2. DynAudio System 342 3 way component
3. Arc8D2 Sub....

looking forward to the arrival....I am being told it would take about 7 to 10 days from the US....

Meanwhile would love to hear from you guys....


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Me. Car hifi not moved an inch. Not fit enough to do it yet. Pretty much got the amp sourced though. Pucks' info on the speaker run thro' the door is good info. You will be done before me


----------



## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

Dubaitt said:


> Hello!
> 
> I've been travelling and out of town ....well - what's the status update ? Minty - Puck - how far have you reached ?
> 
> ...


Dubaitt,

I have finished , installed them passively and used the front center speaker... You must choose if you would like to use it, as it will fill the front staging nicely... In your case with the 3way, i would first hear how it sounds and then decide...



















Get the Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit, you will need it....

Plus , remove the rear amp completely, when i connected it in-line with my Audison, the rears connected to the stock amp were playing very low and couldn't find a sweet spot...


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

@ Puck:
That's nice - wonderful progress - well done mate. I guess you need to return to tuning in about 30 to 40 days as new speakers takes about that much time to "run in"....

Your point on the rear speakers noted - with a new powerful amp and a better 3 way front units - the rear speakers - I always thought was unnecessary - you just reconfirmed that it could only be a disturbance.

The center speaker - could you say how you managed to power it up ? where did you get the signal from? - assuming you removed the stock amp. The new amp doesn't have a dedicated center channel right ?

@ Minty:
How are you ? Hope you are recovering well! My amps and sub has arrived - but got fooled by a dodgy online trader for the Dyns! The name is WOOFERSETC.COM . Please spread the word around - avoid them. I made the full payment upfront - even after a week they didn't ship it - giving me no clear explanation! Luckily I went through "paypal" and I was so lucky to get my money back!

Now I am trying to order it from a German site http://www.hifisound.de - anyone has anything on them ?

So I am also delayed with the project....lets stay in touch.


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Good to see you have got some of your stuff. I could have told you about the Dynas from that site. It says so on the Dyna website. There is a list on their site of the ones to avoid. You were lucky. I would stick with authorised dealers, unless you know where they are coming from.
Today I stripped off the A panels for my tweeter location. I was wanting to mount from behind the Apillar trim, but after getting it off there is not much room behind there. Will need a rethink me thinks.
It should be noted that to get the Apillar trim off, you need to strip the full side off starting in the boot. Not 5mins work, so you should allow plenty of time for this.
I also removed the plug which goes between the door and the main car body to see about running cables thro' the hole at the bottom of the connector. (Used YoungOldUn procedure on battery disconnection. Worked well. Cheers) I spoke with the hifi installer and he recommended 12awg for 8in woofer and 16awg for mids and tweeters. I could get the thicker cable thro' the hole but not the smaller cable. Looks like I will be going back to the Audi repair wires going thro' the connector.
My amp is also here, but speakers first amp will be the easy bit.
I am just taking it easy though, as I am feeling it tonight.

Just had a look at that site looks fine. Don't know why you didnt go for the 8's, not that much price difference between the two and they also fit.


----------



## rhinobacker (Feb 15, 2012)

TT-driver said:


> puck said:
> 
> 
> > robokn said:
> ...


Would this seriously work? Genuine question!


----------



## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

I wish i had this space! Mine is a coupe and the only possible location is in the boot :?[/quote]

Like with any hatchback, you could still fit speakers in the parcel shelf. Use the entire boot space as enclosure. [/quote]
Would this seriously work? Genuine question![/quote]

Yes it would. Most subs can run 'free air' which means it does not need a box(enclosure) to run. Not 'tight' bass but not too shabby. I thought about it when going to do the install in my car, but the mountings for the shelf are very flimsy and it also has the split rear shelf, so not really practical. I have made two small 0.5ft3 sealed boxes for my two 10inch subs. When i eventually get around to fitting.

Dubiatt, word of warning on fitting the tweeters. I had a go yesterday and never realised how big they are. Gulp. Hole was all nicely cut and fitting great then whoops, they will not fit behind the Apillar trim. When it is removed they is no enough of a gap behind it, so will need to be mounted outside with a fabricated surround. Not what I was wanting to do but hey.


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Thanks Minty! feeling a bit tense about the tweeter after your experience....will post my findings. I dont have the expertise to do any serious mod as I told you earlier...hope mine goes in smoothly! By the way the Arc amp's as well the sub got delivered. Nice  

Now waiting for the Dyns to land...wonder why it is taking this long....the "german" online price at hifisound.de is much better that the US price...well if it arrives :?


----------



## Dubaitt (Oct 22, 2011)

Hello!

I've been away - and havent updated this post .....well doesnt see much activity here either. 

My Dyns have arrived safe and sound, Arc Amps are here as well as the Sub and Dynamat extreme! 

So I will embark upon the installation work shortly...just to let you guys know that the day time temperature here is 48 degrees centigrade :x and working on the car is not that easy....

Will return with more updates.....sincere thanks to all those who have shared their experiences and valuable information (Y)


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## JETLAG (Nov 23, 2005)

Dubaitt said:


> Hello!
> 
> I've been away - and havent updated this post .....well doesnt see much activity here either.
> 
> ...


Wow, take advantage of the heat... you wont need a hotair gun to apply the Dynamat


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## eXhilarat3d (Aug 10, 2012)

I know I am extremely late to the party but I went through each page along with searches to determine which leads to use for an external subwoofer amplifier. I have the Navigation Plus non-Bose system. I found many diagrams for the Bose system and was really hoping to find exactly what I need in this thread.  Could you guys with experience please chime in?

Thanks so much in advance!!


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

To all those that have changed their heat units to aftermarket ones, a few questions:

1. When you buy the cables etc for the new head unit, do you need to buy just the canbus adaptor, or do you need the kit with the cage, or both? I have decided I am not bothering about steering wheel connections, so dont need that cable.

2. I will be no doubt using the car with no radio fitted, I don't imagine there would be any problems, but has anyone done it?

3. Any other tips?


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Having done a bit more sniffing on the net and the forum, it appears I need the
Connects2 CTKAU03 Audi TT 2006> Radio Installation Kit

I am looking to fit an Alpine head unit (ineW925) to my non bose 2011 audi TT. 
1. Do I need to purchase the CTCAU02 also or is that part of the kit ?
2. Do I need anything else?

I will be running two aftermarket amplifiers.


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## coltonskilly (Apr 4, 2012)

the minty1 said:


> Having done a bit more sniffing on the net and the forum, it appears I need the
> Connects2 CTKAU03 Audi TT 2006> Radio Installation Kit
> 
> I am looking to fit an Alpine head unit (ineW925) to my non bose 2011 audi TT.
> ...


To be sure I would give connects2 a call, you will find them very helpful.


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

I have sent CarAudioDirect an email. I was just looking for realworld experiences. Ta


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## kermit954 (Mar 31, 2011)

Alpine also have a connector especially for audi tt , APF-D101AU.
With this even DIS should work.


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

I will be resurrecting this so I can keep an eye on it!


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Richard do you have a new HU yet??

Sent from my iPhone using Magic


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

robokn said:


> Richard do you have a new HU yet??
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Magic


Yes well almost Kenwood DAB Wifi 9230


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## the minty1 (Mar 27, 2011)

Unfortunately I dont think this thread will go any further from Dubaitt (not logged in for a year)unless someone else continues it.


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## illingworth22 (Sep 6, 2011)

the minty1 said:


> Unfortunately I dont think this thread will go any further from Dubaitt (not logged in for a year)unless someone else continues it.


But it is a good source of information!

EDIT the only real source on information on here!


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## coltonskilly (Apr 4, 2012)

robokn said:


> Richard do you have a new HU yet??
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Magic


Was that to me Rob?

And no happy with the Kenwood I got from you


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

No sorry it was was Richard Illingworth Sorry for the confusion glad your happy with it can't go wrong with a Kenwood


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## puck (Oct 7, 2009)

illingworth22 said:


> I will be resurrecting this so I can keep an eye on it!


I am looking on mounting an ipad mini on mine!

Found everything, just need some time to start working on it... :lol: :lol:


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## SuperRS (Mar 7, 2012)

bump, I will have alot of catching up to do.

Planning on fitting a compact 5 way alpine amp so far:

RMS Power Ratings

Per Channel into 4ohms, 14.4V (≤1%THD+N): 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS x 1
Per Channel into 2ohms, 14.4V (≤1%THD+N): 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS x 1
Bridged into 4ohms, 14.4V (≤1%THD+N): 200W RMS x 2

Then do I run 2 ways all round with 2 x 8" subs in the front side doors and forget about the tiny sub in the back? Or would that not work well? I dont want a sub in the boot of the car due to probably not having rear seats and wanting access to the compartment underneath

edit,

Possibly I will run this 8" sub in the OEM enclosure

http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/6w3v3-4-car-au ... viewHeader


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