# VR6 Turbo - Build and Ongoing Progress



## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I've been a longtime lurker and never really posted my car, however I thought it was a good time to do so. I've been reading all the other builds and find them interesting. This may help someone who is looking to do something that I've done. 










The car started off relatively stock. Unitronic Stage 1+, was a great car to run at the track standard. This is a 6 speed manual 3.2 VR6. Not that common over here in Canada. 









Just installed my Miltek non-resonated exhaust. It was such a nice exhaust, perfect fitment and sound. Totally recommend for our cars. 










I purchased a "vanity plate" and started to shop around for a turbo kit. 

I ended up purchasing a 034 Motosports turbo kit which included 850cc injectors, PTE 6262 Ball Bearing turbo, 044 in Surge tank, intake / exhaust manifold and I converted the car to return style fuel system. DW65v fuel pump in the tank.










The gold foil was to stop the heat getting into the turbo outlet, the manifold would generate a lot of heat. I wasn't a fan of how they ran the pipe down low on the engine close to the harmonic balancer. The silicone pipe needed to be placed perfectly so it wouldn't rub the axle or harmonic balancer. Neverless it ran pretty good. ECU was tuned by them as well. It was running 1 bar of pressure and it was a pretty small turbo so it's had a ton of low end torque. 








'''

This is at our local track after the turbo conversion. Unfortunately the car was unbalanced on power it would understeer heavily mid corner. The oil temps would skyrocket as well down the straight which stopped my tracking for the moment. Also, there was some coolant leaking from the rear of the engine since it didn't run properly since the shop who assembled it put it together.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

So apart it came and I checked the head for straightness, it was milled down. The cooling fans weren't working as they should, I swapped them out for a new pair as it had overheated as well. 










Put it all back together and it ran ok for a brief time period:











I had picked up an euro RS3 steering wheel instead of my stock TT wheel. It was a bit thicker and had a red centre line which I thought it was cool:









I also added an oil cooler, albeit small it made quiet a difference in oil temps. I was able to track it pretty hard and keep the oil temps down.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

The oil drain for the turbo was plumbed back through the oil pan drain which I wasn't a huge fan of. It also made the oil changes a big pain. So I had a local friend Issam Abed who was selling these oil pans that were aluminum with baffling and alternate oil drain provisions. 









At the same time I looked at my bearings and engine while the oil pan was off. The engine at this point has 160,000kms. It looks super clean and no issues were found. 










I added a surge tank and switch to e85 to gain a bit of power. I had a e85 tune which 034 Motorsports made close to 600whp with on a slightly larger turbo. I added some gauges in the car to closely monitor some key metrics. 










I really liked this setup, I found it was nice and clean. AFR gauge, Boost and ethanol content sensor. 

Here is a picture of the surge tank: 034 Surge tank 044 pump. The pump was pretty loud and it was run at 100% duty at all times.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

My axles were clicking fairly badly so I decided to grab some Raxles replacement. They were great, these are the axles that are in the car to this day.










Important thing to note that these are OEM like replacements but they can handle a lot of power.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

So I wanted to dyno the car and scheduled a dyno session. Here I would run 15psi on E85 on a PTE 6262. 










The car was loaded pretty heavily and I was able to make a couple passes but this essentially fried my clutch. Here is the best I was able to do that day:










I was dissapointed with the dyno figures as I thought it would easily hit over 500whp but it is was it is. 

The clutch I did turn up the car to 20psi on E85 but the clutch was slipping badly at this point. I didn't realize but I had a Stage 3 Bully clutch which was rated to 300hp. When I called for an upgrade they were surprised it held on for so long. They didn't have an upgrade for me at the time. At this time the engine started leaking coolant between the block and the head , like the head gasket wasn't sealing but we had just replaced the head gasket and skimmed the head. 

Time to build the engine as there was quite a bit of blow by as well. So out came the engine:









The wife though it would be a good picture moment..ha.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

To sum up the engine build, I got in contact with Bill Schimmel who is renowned VR6 in the US. I selected the following parts:


Mahle 84.5mm Pistons
Pauter HD rods with ARP 625+
ARP 2000 headstuds, mains
Calico Coated Bearings
Ferrea Valves / Springs Retainers
Schrick 268/264 Cams.










I didn't want any clutch problems anymore so I went with a Sachs RCS-200 rated to 1200nm. 










I assembled the rest pretty much unchanged from before:











I did add a wavetrac and stainless steel forks to the transmission. I did it myself it was pretty easy at this point I'm doing all the work in my garage.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

The prop shaft was leaking grease in the centre joint. I had the pressed joint so they wanted 2k+ for a new one. I saw they make a version with a universal joint. Bought one from the junked, put new flex disc on them and replaced the universal joint. So if there is anything wrong with the driveshaft I can service it instead of paying 2k+ for a new one.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Initially on the stock ECU the new engine didn't run so well. It was way rich. Emailing 034 for tune updates, they never responded. The kit was discontinued and they didn't offer support for it anymore. United Motorports had never done a turbo 2008 Audi TT before so they couldn't help me out immediately. 

I did find Syvecs that was a full standalone replacement ECU that would work as expected. I went ahead and ordered a S6 Plus. However during the order they had never done this car as well with a manual transmission . They needed can bus information, as they couldn't be certain it would be the same. 

Reading up on CANbus I bought a can2usb device and learned how to capture drivetrain can data so I can send back to Syvecs. 

And finally I had a plug and play Syvecs standalone for my car. The plan was to learn and self tune the car.










The kit was based off a MK5 R32 that Storm initially helped with the developement.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Using the PNP wiring and the base map I was able to drive the car and it was much better. I needed to finalize the tune so I brought it to a local dyno shop to get it refined. The 034 turbo manifold warped badly on the dyno to the point it was 1-2cm in difference in straightness from end to end. I was really never happy with the turbo setup so I decided to redo the turbo setup. Sell off as many parts form the 034 kit and build my own custom turbo kit.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I'll have to speed things up a bit or else I'll spend 2 weeks writing all the trials and tribulations. 

I received a turbular divided turbo manifold from P-Motorsports. 










EGT bungs to run invidual EGT sensors per cylinder.
Intake manifold from P-Motorsports as well.










EFR 9274 mount with twin 38mm Tial gates:










Final results:


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Here is what the engine bay looks like today. I replaced all coolant hoses with AN lines, added Radium coolant tank, Radium catch can. All vacuum hoses are PTFE lines in -3an and -4an. 
Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Impressive work!
Love the custom manifolds


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

Very cool build...how much power you putting down now? I noticed 034 doesn't offer that kit anymore too--tried to check their website for it, but all links dead. Kind of sucks they didn't even reply to you about it afterwards either. Seems you found the weak links in it pretty quick though and moved on.

The cost of all this must have been quite a sum haha! That Syvecs alone...wow!

That thing must be a rocket ship though 😁 If the car still looks mostly the same, one heck of a sleeper too. The licence plate gives nothing away either--you could have added a "T" to it lol. If I ever see it around now though, I'll know! 

On another note I had no idea there was a prop shaft variant with a serviceable centre-joint/carrier, that's good to know. That was from an Mk2/PQ35 car?


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

Love this post! Thanks for taking the time writing it up. Many questions from me too  




8JVR6 said:


> Unfortunately the car was unbalanced on power it would understeer heavily mid corner.


oh no! what do you mean by this? I'm guessing power delivery was not predictable or something?




8JVR6 said:


> euro RS3 steering wheel


This is nice! Would you have the part number? Also the part number for your wheels?



8JVR6 said:


> oil cooler, albeit small it made quiet a difference in oil temps. I was able to track it pretty hard and keep the oil temps down.


great placelement for the oil cooler - i always look at the massive gap behind the bumper thinking you can fit SO much in there LOL. What's the size of the oil cooler and the FMIC?



8JVR6 said:


> local friend Issam Abed who was selling these oil pans that were aluminum with bafflin


Wonder if Issaam makes these for the 3.6?



8JVR6 said:


> to grab some Raxles replacement. They were great, these are the axles that are in the car to this day.


Are these are lot heavier than stock?



8JVR6 said:


> Mahle 84.5mm Pistons
> Pauter HD rods with ARP 625+
> ARP 2000 headstuds, mains
> Calico Coated Bearings
> ...


Nice parts list! SOuunds like the engine's going to be able to handle everything you throw at it now.


8JVR6 said:


> stainless steel forks to the transmission


I thought the Mk2 gearboxes came with stainless steel forks to start off with?



8JVR6 said:


> turbular divided turbo manifold from P-Motorsports.


Wow - so with the single EGTs in each runner the Syvecs take that all into account to trim/add fuel? Does it use it's own special EGT's or the OEM ones?


8JVR6 said:


> EFR 9274 mount with twin 38mm Tial gates:


Holy moly that is *HUGE*! What are you goals with this setup?



8JVR6 said:


> Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.


Wouuld you have any more info on this loom? Is it custom made or something off the shelf?

Look forward to seeing your next dyno run with all of the mega upgrades (as if the first upgrade wasn't mega enough! LOL)


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

IPG3.6 said:


> Wonder if Issaam makes these for the 3.6?


I can answer this one at least, I think. Pretty sure this is the guy behind iAbed:





 iABED Industries







iabedindustries.com





Can probably email and ask. I think the baffled pan he makes for the EA888 2.0Ts is around $600 USD as a point of reference.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

TT'sRevenge said:


> On another note I had no idea there was a prop shaft variant with a serviceable centre-joint/carrier, that's good to know. That was from an Mk2/PQ35 car?


Thanks for the kind words. The driveshaft was from an earlier model Mk2 TT. I think it was a 2.0litre car but they made them for the 3.2 as well. I asked the junkyard to send me a pic of it, they thought I was crazy or something and it had the serviceable joint.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

IPG3.6 said:


> Love this post! Thanks for taking the time writing it up. Many questions from me too
> 
> 
> 
> oh no! what do you mean by this? I'm guessing power delivery was not predictable or something?


The power came on hard and at a low rpm, it upset the car quite a bit mid corner with a big torque hit. 



IPG3.6 said:


> This is nice! Would you have the part number? Also the part number for your wheels?


Strangely enough the wheel has the same part number as the TT steering wheel. I bought it off a guy with a manual R8 that was getting a carbon wheel. Wheels are Speedlines, which look nice but are heavy as hell. 8J0601025AA



IPG3.6 said:


> great placelement for the oil cooler - i always look at the massive gap behind the bumper thinking you can fit SO much in there LOL. What's the size of the oil cooler and the FMIC?


Oil cooler is a Setrab SLM 420-14, FMIC was a Garrett, I don't recall the size 2.5-24-12. I think I have a newer setup now 



IPG3.6 said:


> Wonder if Issaam makes these for the 3.6?


I'm not sure, the 3.6 doesn't get too much love.



IPG3.6 said:


> Are these are lot heavier than stock?


No they are basically remanufactured stock axles. 



IPG3.6 said:


> I thought the Mk2 gearboxes came with stainless steel forks to start off with?


Brass , I'm pretty sure all MK5 and up are brass now. Our mk2 being on the same platform. If you look at the picture of the tranny open, you can see it's brass. 



IPG3.6 said:


> Wow - so with the single EGTs in each runner the Syvecs take that all into account to trim/add fuel? Does it use it's own special EGT's or the OEM ones?


Yeah single EGT for each runner so we can trim the fuel precisely for each cylinder. I'm using special EGT's that my tuner has specially made that are fast acting and durable. 



IPG3.6 said:


> Holy moly that is *HUGE*! What are you goals with this setup?


I think to crack 4 digits in power would be nice. So I'd say 1000bhp, or something like 850-900whp.



IPG3.6 said:


> Wouuld you have any more info on this loom? Is it custom made or something off the shelf?


I made it myself, so custom. So if you have any questions let know. 

Thanks for the kind words as well, I'll be posting more updates there is a bunch more stuff to add.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Here are some better shots of the engine. 










On the engine stand, running the IaBED oil filter adapter, I have a pressure/temp sensor there as well. The OEM one I've long deleted. 










AN20 converted coolant lines. 










Powder coated the valve cover, I think thats the best bang for your buck. Looks much better now.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Picked up some vibratechnic engine mounts. I purchased the competition ones and they are fantastic, clearly the best on the market. 










On to the transmission, I was running stock gears but after this turbo upgrade I knew I needed more. So I decide to order a gears from Don Octane and when with a 1-6 Synchro forged gears.

Here are my stock gears out of the transmission:










Here are the forged ones:










There is now a pilot bearing which helps with high powered cars. I just bought the stock pilot bearing and installed it before I put my tranny back in. 

Here is the difference in gear size:










Much beefier. Overall very much like stock gearing, there is quite of gear whine but nothing crazy. It does sound like a straight cut box in lower gears, it gets a touch quieter at higher gear / rpm.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Here is where it gets interesting, I wanted to monitor my car much better than the three little gauges I had in my car so I decided to pick up a dash from PLEX. I picked up a PLEX SDM550. This would enable GPS / Accelerometer data to be sent to the Syvecs which is very cool. 

I had a hard time deciding how to mount it so I had a 3d printer and I designed an insert for it.










It fits perfect:










The screen looks washed out but it's hard to take a good pic of it since it has anti-glare coating so the sun doesn't wash it out but it doesn't really look great through a camera for some reason. 

Here is an action shot with some car sounds. 





I did fix the gas gauge it was just a configuration issue there, but I do have the pq35 dbc so things like my signal lights / high beams and things I care about are displayed on this dash like the OEM one. I have access to hundreds of OEM CAN parameters that I can display as well as Syvecs can data. It works very well.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

This build, is one word: EPIC
Too many points to comment on, but fair play!
After being a big part of supercharging a mates MK4 R32 - I can appreciate the work involved in this

Thanks for sharing this within forum
Nice to see more builds that push away from the usual TT direction

Looking forward to all the updates!


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Lets talk fueling. This car needs a lot of fuel to support the high loads, so I devised a surge tank located in the trunk. It's a Radium Single pump surge tank with an E5LM "Bugatti Veyron" pump. It's controller via a Torqbyte PM5 with a Torqbyte voltage booster. @ 24v it's capable of pushing 1200lph @ 80 PSI. The Torqbyte guys are local as well and were such a pleasure to deal with. 










To deal with fuel pressure oscillations I installed a Radium FPR-D which includes a fuel pulse dampener.










You can see the flex fuel sensor which is now on the feed side with a Radium Flex-Fuel bypass kit. This removes any restriction with the flex fuel sensor. However, I'm only running -6an front to back and there is plenty of fuel. 

I did pick up a new fuel pump for the in tank setup. A Brushless DW440. It's so compact:










The fuel basket is a pain point for everyone upgrading their fuel pumps. So I went ahead and designed an OEM+ billet fuel basket to accept aftermarket pumps:










Check valve is used to keep the fuel in the basket when it's full but open when it's empty. I've noticed that it leaves a bit more fuel in the tank compared to OEM when completely dry maybe a couple litres but I'd never run it that dry. It accepts the top portion and the level sensor bracket as it if was OEM. Here is the basket fully assembled.


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## nielsmuijs (6 mo ago)

That fuel basket looks epic.. You should offer that to others as well!!


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## TT'sRevenge (Feb 28, 2021)

8JVR6 said:


> The fuel basket is a pain point for everyone upgrading their fuel pumps. So *I went ahead and designed an OEM+ billet fuel basket* to accept aftermarket pumps:
> 
> View attachment 489312


That's pretty awesome right there but I'm guessing you're not exactly just "a guy in a home garage"--you must be an engineer of some sort, by trade? Are you gonna be producing/selling those?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

TT'sRevenge said:


> That's pretty awesome right there but I'm guessing you're not exactly just "a guy in a home garage"--you must be an engineer of some sort, by trade? Are you gonna be producing/selling those?


I’m very much a guy in a home garage. 

Umm I could produce them but I’d need a good amount pre ordered to make the price attractive. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Just trying to catch up and keep this up to date. I hit the dyno last year on 93 octane and here is the dyno sheet:










To be honest I was a bit disappointed. But this is pump gas so I figure with some e85 I'd get some much better numbers. I'll wait till next year to do so. 

In the mean time, I needed to rebuild the rear end. I used to winter drive this car so the rear control arms and subframe were super rusty.



















I ordered new control arms, bushing and a rear subframe from Verkline.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

The floor underneath what showing some surface rust so I decided to use POR15 to seal it all up once I cleaned up the whole rear end.







d

Man that stuff stinks and pretty much is permanent once it dries. I'll feel much better with this coating and ensuring any debris will open up any raw metal for it to rust. It wasn't a 100% perfect job but it wasn't too bad either. 

Meaning I fully serviced my haldex which included complete dissasembly. 











Split the case open removed rear diff, everything looked good there:










Lots of junk in the Haldex fluid reservoir, the filter and pump screen was pretty clean though:










Took our the Haldex clutches and measured them. Everything looks great for a 180,000km car:


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

All back together. I decide to get poly bushing and stay away from anything spherical as this is a "street car" and I'm most likely not going to race it.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

no detail is being missed!!! loving the continueing progress - do you have any upgrades in mind for the haldex / rear diff?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

IPG3.6 said:


> no detail is being missed!!! loving the continueing progress - do you have any upgrades in mind for the haldex / rear diff?


Well an LSD would be great but I think they are insanely prices, I think it's a lot of work but not worth it for my car at this point. I may revisit this at a later date. 

I did install a Haldex Controller from VanDerVeer Engineering. The rear is actually great, however during high power / high speeds the stock programming uncouples the rear which causes a ton of wheel slip in the front. I recently got that all sorted.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

HPA Brakes for all 4 Corners. I realized with my current brakes the car doesn't stop quite as well as it used to, since I have much more power:


























Overall the brakes feel really good. I need to adjust the parking brake a bit since it's a drum now it doesn't seem to bite as well as the old cable brake. Worthwhile upgrade and saves me some weight even though I'm still rocking the stock speedlines.


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

8JVR6 said:


> Haldex Controller from VanDerVeer Engineering.


Thanks! Any more info on this kit?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

IPG3.6 said:


> Thanks! Any more info on this kit?


Here are some more details: Haldex Controller Overview

Great mobile app in which you can configure your haldex split.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

With the availability of E85 locally I want to completely send the car with it cranked up. I needed to know the turbo shaft speed as the EFR's have a habit of grenading if you overspin them. So, a turbo speed sensor was installed:










It was a pretty easy job, it's mostly pre-drilled and you just need to finish it with a 1/4 drill bit. Ensure to clean up any sharp edges. Max shaft speed is 125k for this EFR9274.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I've upgraded the Syvecs from an S6 plus to S7 Plus. It's install in the OEM location. I know some people have some issues with heat from the engine bay but it seems fine in the OEM location. Beside it is the EGT CAN module. The car is equipped with individual EGT sensors so I can see how how each cylinder is getting. 

Lots of debate on sensor placement because of the un-equal length of the runners. My approach is you want to grab the closest reading even if It's not equal length. The cylinder are then grouped together in the two banks to form comparisons.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Ethanol here we go. Filled up with some E85 and adjusted the tune to suit. The car has a flex fuel sensor and can detect the ethanol content in the car and automatically adjust its settings. I don't have to worry about what content I have in the car. Alternatively, I can just fill up at any gas station with 91 if I run out of Ethanol. Unfortunately in Canada there aren't many places that have it available. Here is the dash layout I made for the saddle tank level and E85 content. I did fix the scaling of the fuel level:


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

One of that aspects that wasn't upgraded was the ignition. I know R8 coils are an upgrade that many R32 owners do. There is some information about high joules from R8 coils or aftermarket coils. Claimed better idle and power. I'm more after better idle. The cams + stiff engine mounts there is a crap ton of NVH. Anything to help would be great. I picked up these Ignition Projects coils. Apparently the same as Okada's. I did notice a better idle quality. I don't think it's because my wallet is lighter that the car feels smoother.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Here is a photo of the individual EGT sensors. They have been great as I can trim the fuel for each cylinder based on how hot they get. Since the readings are all over the place mostly, you just want to make sure they peak at the same time. The fact that Cyl 1 is 800c and Cyl is 921c doesn't matter. Cylinder 1 / 3 / 5 should be roughly the same and peak at the same time. Cylinder 2 / 4/ 6/ the same. 

If someone is more interested in this I can go into more details with logs from various pulls.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I'm still trying to catch up so I've just following everything in order as best I can. 

Since the car like to jump lanes a bit when I accelerate. I wanted a new alignment but hated dealing with alignment shops. They seem to take forever to book an appointment and half the time the alignment is off or they will only do OEM alignments. 

I decided to buy a string alignment frame. BG racing. It does take a while to get it setup but it's so worth it. 











I needed some turn plates, but they were crazy expensive. I went ahead and bought some nylon sheets and cut it up so the tires can move easily without any binding. 

I went with 0 Toe front and back, -2.6 camber in the rear and max camber in the front which was -1.8. The car drives super straight now. If anyone has any suggestions to a better alignment let me know.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

8JVR6 said:


> I went with 0 Toe front and back, -2.6 camber in the rear and max camber in the front which was -1.8. The car drives super straight now. If anyone has any suggestions to a better alignment let me know.


Camber - half a degree less in the rear than font is the general rule on the PQ35 platform
Depends what car is used for & personal preference.

1.5-2.5 degrees up front for a high performance road car that may seem some track work
0 toe on the front can work, mild toe in (.02-.-5 minutes) will make the car more stable at speed
Toe in at the rear will definitely be wanted - .08-.16 minutes if I remember is the OE tolerance band.

I track my car and use it as a weekend toy
Run 2.75 up front, 2.1ishrear camber - degrees
.03 toe in on the front axle, 0.08 on the rear - minutes.

Used to run toe out on the front, but but didn't see the turn in benefit it should supposedly bring and made it much less stable at speed
You'll have to convert the toe from minutes to mm to use it with the string method


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

Since you removed the rear axle you probably need an axle alignment.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Wolvez said:


> Since you removed the rear axle you probably need an axle alignment.


I did a 4 wheel alignment.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Barr_end said:


> Camber - half a degree less in the rear than font is the general rule on the PQ35 platform
> Depends what car is used for & personal preference.
> 
> 1.5-2.5 degrees up front for a high performance road car that may seem some track work
> ...


 Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going to dial back the rear camber as mentioned down to -1.5. The car squats so heavily under power, that's another issue. 

I'm going to leave the 0 toe as is though. I got that trick form a heavily tracked TTRS, it doesn't understeer anymore or at least not as much as the OE specs.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

8JVR6 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going to dial back the rear camber as mentioned down to -1.5. The car squats so heavily under power, that's another issue.
> 
> I'm going to leave the 0 toe as is though. I got that trick form a heavily tracked TTRS, it doesn't understeer anymore or at least not as much as the OE specs.


No worries sir - sounds like you need to dial up the spring rates and dampening - you know what you are currently at?

Rear toe alone won't be dialling out the understeer - that will be playing a really small role in an entire package
As said it's all personal preference, feel is key over guesses of numbers.

However 0 toe on the rear can be faster, but also can be ONLY feel faster, as it's loose. But it actually can go the opposite way - completely down to driving style
Certainly isn't going to be discovered at street speeds
Mine is set to the 'most' toe out whilst still within the OE toe (IN) spec - certainly doesn't understeer anywhere like OE

If you take a look down this thread - @Maody66 is a well practised local for the ring
His car was set up by Raeder / Manthey Racing - I think it should go without saying who they are and their set up on his car should be taken as a pretty good start point
Luckily it can be found down this page - you just have to translate it as it's in German








Maody's TT-RS (Introduction, Build & on...


Maody, Do you have any dates planned for next year? I go every year and have just booked for the Last weekend in April, would be great to meet up! I did not yet plan (you know, living 100 Km away does not force you to plan), but if I know you are there I will have this in mind. :)




www.ttforum.co.uk


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## 83kY (Apr 5, 2017)

Great project by far, I haven't been around here in a while so had completely missed the build but catched up now. Being a person that works on cars, understands and appreciates them - and even does builds for others I see a few points where you went the hard way but not saying I wouldn't have gone that route myself in your shoes. This is pretty much something I have been planning for my car too when I decide to retire it from being my trusted well maintained (and worry free) daily driver in a year or two. I might go down the supercharging path though once we get there. As this car is one of those cars that I will be 100% keeping till the end of times (I have a few of those already in the garage ).


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Barr_end said:


> No worries sir - sounds like you need to dial up the spring rates and dampening - you know what you are currently at?
> 
> Rear toe alone won't be dialling out the understeer - that will be playing a really small role in an entire package
> As said it's all personal preference, feel is key over guesses of numbers.
> ...


Thanks for the advice. I don't track the car anymore so I def don't take advantage of the cornering ability that it has.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

83kY said:


> Great project by far, I haven't been around here in a while so had completely missed the build but catched up now. Being a person that works on cars, understands and appreciates them - and even does builds for others I see a few points where you went the hard way but not saying I wouldn't have gone that route myself in your shoes. This is pretty much something I have been planning for my car too when I decide to retire it from being my trusted well maintained (and worry free) daily driver in a year or two. I might go down the supercharging path though once we get there. As this car is one of those cars that I will be 100% keeping till the end of times (I have a few of those already in the garage ).


Yeah I mean this is an all-out big power car, so all that I've done was to do the best mods that I can. Working on the car has been a ton of fun, and learning the motorsport aspect has been great.


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## Wolvez (Jun 22, 2018)

8JVR6 said:


> I did a 4 wheel alignment.


Axle/subframe alignment is different from wheel alignment. You need use part # *T10096* to precisely align the subframe during installation. The steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated after doing a wheel alignment. More power is transferred go the left driveshaft because it's shorter and closer to transmission. To prevent steering to the left on hard acceleration the computer is applying small amount brake to the front left wheels. That's the reason why only the front left brake is equipped with brake wear sensor. With both front wheels are off the ground while on 1st gear try turning the wheels on each side to feel the difference.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Wolvez said:


> Axle/subframe alignment is different from wheel alignment. You need use part # *T10096* to precisely align the subframe during installation. The steering angle sensor needs to be recalibrated after doing a wheel alignment. More power is transferred go the left driveshaft because it's shorter and closer to transmission. To prevent steering to the left on hard acceleration the computer is applying small amount brake to the front left wheels. That's the reason why only the front left brake is equipped with brake wear sensor. With both front wheels are off the ground while on 1st gear try turning the wheels on each side to feel the difference.


The Verkline subframe requires no alignment, it’s an exact fit. Wavetrac keep both wheels spinning at the same rate under power if they end up spinning. 

Traction control is done by GPS/Gyroscope feed from the SDM550 to the Syvecs. This is far from an oem situation.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

After running some E85 and getting the rolling anti-lag configured, the car is a complete blast. The rolling anti-lag hits so hard in 3rd gear. A little too hard for the car actually, I started to hear some noise coming out of the bevel box so I decided to drain the oil to check it out. 

Well the oil was silver color and very sparkly. 











The magnet seems to be doing it's job:










This seems a bit chewed up as well. 










I had a spare new bevel box at home so I swapped in it. Filled it with some better fluid Motul Competition and used some ARP bolts to seal the two halves. It almost look like the gear was out of alignment either from the torque or the case splitting under power. There is no upgrades for the 02q bevel box, so I'll toss another in for now and see how it goes.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

So I've finally caught up to present day. The car has been very reliable aside from the bevel box. I'm not sure if it's just because it has 190,000km or the rolling antilag. I think I need to tone done on the RAL and on use it in 4th gear and up for roll races. 

I took it to the dyno on e85 and was curious how much power it was making. Here is a quick video of the dyno run:






The car squats pretty good, and I had to lock the haldex or the front tires would spin a tremendous amount on the dyno. 

It made 724awhp / 732 awtq. Around 900bhp / 900tq at the crank I'd say. The graph is a bit odd because of a boost spike, I still need to work that out. I think we can get the torque stabilized and hit in the 800's. Overall I'm pleased with the result.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

It's getting cold here and the car is just about ready to go away for the winter. 

Couple of things I'd like to do:

1. Meth kit, will be doing a direct port kit with post intercooler. Most likely Aquamist / Syvecs Meth controller. Should be around 1500-2000cc a min. 

2. Oil cooler kit, with the addition of meth I want to re-install my oil cooler for track use, I have a new prototype oil filter housing with a thermostatic plate built in. Super trick piece. 

3. Upgrade radiator fan relays to Kaizen relays. I'm using the OEM Module which is ok but I'd like to get a proper set of Solid state relays there. 

4. Delete the mechanical water pump. You can't really rev these vr's without creating too much coolant pressure from the pump spinning too fast. I have a Davies Craig electric water pump which I'll be using. This will work better as I've deleted my secondary coolant pump and this will keep it circulating when the engine isn't running. I'll be able to rev the engine past 8000rpm without too much coolant pressure buildup. 

I'll post pictures as I go.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I’ve been battling with an issue that I didn’t know how to solve but it was excessive squat on acceleration. 

It honestly feels like the fronts tires lift off the ground, I’m sure they don’t but the front end does lift up. 

First thought it stiffer rear springs but after doing some reading, it’s in the suspension geometry and you’d want more anti-squat. Since my car is in PSS10s the car is much lower . This reduces my anti squat from OEM.

I knew that Verkline has a set of billet trailing arms that allows you to add anti squat back into the car. I purchased them and installed them over the weekend.



















I opted for +40 anti squat which is the max value. They require you to use their set of endlinks due to the hole in the trailing arm not lining up with the knuckle with that amount of anti squat. 










The holes to the knuckles were a pain to align, using a Jack to rotate the knuckle proved the best way to get them lined up. 










The endlinks screw in directly to the trailing arm. Spherical endlinks are included in the kit. I can’t really test it out, I need to redo the alignment and there is snow on the ground. I’ll report my findings in the spring.


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## Barr_end (Oct 19, 2016)

8JVR6 said:


> I’ve been battling with an issue that I didn’t know how to solve but it was excessive squat on acceleration.
> It honestly feels like the fronts tires lift off the ground, I’m sure they don’t but the front end does lift up.
> First thought it stiffer rear springs but after doing some reading, it’s in the suspension geometry and you’d want more anti-squat. Since my car is in PSS10s the car is much lower . This reduces my anti squat from OEM.
> I knew that Verkline has a set of billet trailing arms that allows you to add anti squat back into the car. I purchased them and installed them over the weekend.
> I opted for +40 anti squat which is the max value. They require you to use their set of endlinks due to the hole in the trailing arm not lining up with the knuckle with that amount of anti squat.


Interested to see how you get along with these - lovely looking bit of kit, certainly well finished in quality
The purpose of your car, think they should work out perfectly, but guess in a fair bit of time, it will tell

Only other people I have seen experiment with them this side of the pond were Darkside Developments
But they were trying these on their MQB / MK3 / 8S TT's but also as out and out track cars and didn't seem to like / have much success


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Barr_end said:


> Interested to see how you get along with these - lovely looking bit of kit, certainly well finished in quality
> The purpose of your car, think they should work out perfectly, but guess in a fair bit of time, it will tell
> 
> Only other people I have seen experiment with them this side of the pond were Darkside Developments
> But they were trying these on their MQB / MK3 / 8S TT's but also as out and out track cars and didn't seem to like / have much success


I'm curious why they didn't like it. I know it doesn't take out all the squat, but I saw a couple of YouTube videos of MQB chassis cars and they loved it. 
I have more of a street/drag setup than track. You'd think you would need more anti-dive than anti-squat for a track car. 

I'll know right away if they work for me when I accelerate for the first time.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

Those trailing arms look very good quality, not come across those before


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## IPG3.6 (Sep 5, 2015)

lots of videos please


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

IPG3.6 said:


> lots of videos please


I’ll try, I should get a go pro for it next spring.


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## checkoutmytts (2 mo ago)

8JVR6 said:


> Here is what the engine bay looks like today. I replaced all coolant hoses with AN lines, added Radium coolant tank, Radium catch can. All vacuum hoses are PTFE lines in -3an and -4an.
> Wiring was redone as well in a mil spec loom. I spend a while on the harness but it was enjoyable to have a perfectly placed harness that is durable.
> 
> View attachment 489266
> ...


BEAST MODE BRO


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

So I’ve been having haldex issues as well with the power levels I’m running. I need to increase the clamping pressure in the rear. 

I asked my friend Issam if he had a spare rear diff from a haldex gen 4 car since mine was an early 2008 with gen 2. He had one from a Mk6 Golf R the dealer replaced the whole diff because of an issue. No guarantees this isn’t a pile of junk but it was free. I’m hoping the haldex is intact. 



















First things first I’ll drain the haldex fluid. Man this was super black and tons of clutch material. 










Kinda hard to see. But lots of gold flakes. 









So far so good with the haldex removed nothing looks bad. 

Clutches measured out to almost brand new. 










I think this Haldex fluid was never changed during its life. 

The basket was in good shape, perhaps the pre charge pump was dead ? 

Measuring the ohms on the two leads I saw 28 ohms. It’s supposed to be 5-8ohms. The screen was plugged with black crap and when I popped off the cover this is what I saw: 










Black sludge all over the motor which is supposed to be sealed. Can’t tell it’s if all burned up or coated in sludge. I’ll need a new one anyhow. 

That’s about as far as I got tonight, I’m thinking the pump died and they just swapped the whole diff. I have new clutches to install with an extra clutch that will bring up the torque rating from 1200nm to 1800nm. This should help tremendously. 

The folks who made my haldex controller Vandeveer said it’s just a firmware update for it to work in my car. 

I’ll open up the rear diff tomorrow to see if there is any carnage in there or if it’s okay. 


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

So do you plan to swap the whole diff over, or just the haldex assembly? I'm very interested to know how the gen2 to gen4 haldex swap goes without replacing the whole diff if so


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

MT-V6 said:


> So do you plan to swap the whole diff over, or just the haldex assembly? I'm very interested to know how the gen2 to gen4 haldex swap goes without replacing the whole diff if so


Yup, a straight haldex swap with the gen 2 diff. Actually reading some parts diagram it seems that they just changed the haldex coupling from gen 2 to gen 4. Known as HAA350.

Changing the diff is a bit of a pain and I’d rather avoid that. 


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

I took the rest of the rear diff apart and the diff fluid was actually clean. Rear diff looks brand new, the haldex magnet was full of black stuff:










I re-measured the clutches as there must have been some major wear. It looks like there are high and low spots on the clutches, some places were 1.65mm to 1.75mm from the original 1.8. There were a few spots with 1.8 . Kind of odd. 










All cleaned up. I still think this is a good candidate to swap into my gen 2. I’ve ordered a new pump / filter. Once that arrives I’ll be swapping into the car with the new clutches. 


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## darrylmg (Oct 16, 2021)

8JVR6 said:


> I took the rest of the rear diff apart and the diff fluid was actually clean. Rear diff looks brand new, the haldex magnet was full of black stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great job by the way 👏 
What's the "haldex magnet"? Does it have a proper name?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

darrylmg said:


> Great job by the way
> What's the "haldex magnet"? Does it have a proper name?


Thanks, I’m not sure if it’s proper name other that it being a magnet. You have to split the diff to get access which requires a subframe removal so it’s not really accessible. 


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

My parts came in from haldex parts , new pump, filter and tail piece will seal. I don’t like reusing seals as it’s a bit of a pain to take off. 

I soaked the new upgraded clutches for 4 hours before installing. It’s an extra clutch that the normal clutch pack. The overall clutch stack height is roughly the same from oem. The clutch disks are thinner which allows more room for extra clutches / steel. 

Here is the two units side by side:




















The differential, the haldex fluid was very clean for one season of use: 










And the haldex gen 4 installed:











Having vbands for my exhaust made it fairly easy, propshaft I just undid the middle support and dropped it down. I use ARP bolts to secure the propshaft so no need for new bolts.


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## MT-V6 (Jan 11, 2015)

To check my understanding then:

Original rear diff not removed from the car
Gen 2 haldex removed
Gen 4 haldex (from mk6 golf R) fitted with new/upgraded? pump and upgraded clutch pack

You have an aftermarket haldex controller?

But all other car modules are happy without fault codes?


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

You don’t need to soak clutch plates, just apply oil to them as you fit them.
Soaking does absolutely nothing at all.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

MT-V6 said:


> To check my understanding then:
> 
> Original rear diff not removed from the car
> Gen 2 haldex removed
> ...


Yeah the Gen 4 Haldex from Mk6 Golf R bolted right up. Same connector. I only changed the pump / filter cause it was a failed unit that my friend got for free at VW. Assuming you'd pick one up in good condition you could just bolt it up. I added the clutches since I'm having haldex slip issues. 

I haven't scanned the car yet since I'm doing a bunch of things at the same time, but for science, I'll try to run it as is. I think it should work, if not my haldex controller can make it work for sure. I'm installing a meth kit so all my fuel lines are disconnected in the rear so I don't want to cycle the ignition till that's done. Hopefully, in a couple of weeks, I'll start it up and do a little test. 

I can't imagine that it wouldn't work, the CANBUS on the car must be the same from 2008 vs a 2008.5 which received the Gen4.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

barry_m2 said:


> You don’t need to soak clutch plates, just apply oil to them as you fit them.
> Soaking does absolutely nothing at all.


I thought about that, there is no harm in soaking them. Dodson clutch packs which are kind of similar in the instructions tell you to soak them. It is because soaking will ensure full coverage or do the packs absorb a bit of fluid? The clutches didn't seem to absorb any fluid but I'm no expert. I think it's a foolproof way to ensure you get full coverage and it's less messy.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

No, you’re right, no harm at all, but it doesn’t actually do anything by leaving them in for hours on end. Nothing get absorbed. If it did, it wouldn’t last very long.

Leaving them for 1 second or 1 day submerged will have the same outcome.


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## Robtaylors (10 mo ago)

Seriously impressive build, got to be one of the best I’ve seen


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Robtaylors said:


> Seriously impressive build, got to be one of the best I’ve seen


Thanks, I appreciate it.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

As I take off the front bumper for my meth kit installation I thought I would review my intercooler setup and provide some data on its efficiency. 

I wanted a compact intercooler that would fit behind the front bumper. I didn't want to install the TTRS front grille but leave it as the base front grill. The goal was to leave it as stock-looking exterior as possible. 

I ordered a genuine Garrett Core, rated for 800hp 13.1"x8.6"x5" P/N: 848054-6005. It's a bar and plate, which is regarded better here in North America that tube and fin for some reason. Anyhow, getting the best possible quality core would help me get better results. I was kinda shocked when I saw how small it was when it arrived. I obviously didn't visualize it properly.











Working with the fabricator we decided on 3" intercooler piping into the intercooler and 3'5 out to the 82mm throttle body. Vibrant HD clamps to ensure that we don't have any hoses popping off. 











I relocated the horns and added an oil cooler. The oil cooler was dirty but it not that banged up besides a couple bent fins like the picture shows. 

Sneak peak inside. 










I thought what the heck let's run it and if it's too small I'll swap it out with a bigger core. 

Here is a sort of torture test on the IAT's. High speed run from 100km/hr to 240km/hr full power. Rolling Anti-lag @ 100/km/hr and full acceleration till top of 6th gear. I didn't realize how short my gearset.










IAT starts at 13 degrees or so, then climbs 7 degrees for a 4 th gear pull which is awesome, however 5th gear it climbs almost 20 degrees, then 6th about 10 degrees for a final IAT of 50 degrees C. 

Mind you this is a huge pull at 724whp or 900bhp , I need to work on boost control as it's pretty ugly but I think it performed decently. The water meth kit I think will help this further. It's a street car so It very rarely sees this type of abuse but it's promising that I didn't see anything excessive.

Other details, there is no turbo lag from the large charge pipes. In between shifts, when the charge pipes are in vacuum and I press the accelerator it takes 0.6 seconds to hit 30-32psi. Twin Scroll manifold and the EFR Turbo really make this a quick spooling car. The volume of air / speed is so high it has no problem filling up the charge pipes instantaneously. 

Once we have hit the 50 degrees C, it interesting to see how long it takes to get in the same neighborhood of the initial IAT. It took 71 seconds out of boost to return back to initial IAT. I was surprised it shed the heat relatively quick. 

I'm going to keep this setup as it's sufficient for my street car duties. I'll post more data with direct port + after intercooler meth injection.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

Which model EFR are you using?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

barry_m2 said:


> Which model EFR are you using?


9274 Aluminum housing, 1.05 AR EWG.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

What’s the spool up like with it? I was thinking of going 7670 .83 as I’m limited to a T3 (will be using HPA manifold).
I’ve heard all the EFR’s spin up pretty quick?


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Yeah they do. I hit 30psi @ 4500rpm or so which is great for that size of turbo. 

I’d recommend a slightly larger turbo EFR8474. It would give you a nice range of power without needing to upgrade.


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## 8JVR6 (May 13, 2013)

Powered on the car and used VCDS to scan the Gen 4 Haldex. So far no codes and everything is happy. I haven’t driven it though that’s the real test.


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