# Absolutely Useless Products!



## MINI-TTGuy (Sep 29, 2008)

A list of useless products designed to con those into car detailing!

(i) Snowfoam: Such a load of nonsense. The idea is that you spray foamed up shampoo on a dirty car, let it settle, and then rinse it off. Sounds great, but guess what, you still have to wash the car afterwards as normal because the snowfoam only takes the heaviest dirt off. Why go through the pointless snowfoam step when you can just wash the car and get all of the dirt off in one go? :roll:

(ii) Shampoo: More rubbish. If you use a non-PH-neutral one it strips off all of your polish and wax, if you do use a PH-neutral one what does it do that's better than just washing the car with plain water? Nothing. The dirt will easily fall off a waxed/polished car, so using shampoo is pointless. :roll:

(iii) Quick-Detailing-Spray: If you wax the car with a decent wax at least once a month, there is no need for the little 'wax top ups' provided by these sprays. If you don't properly wax the car regularly, then buy a decent wax and forget about 'quick detailing sprays' that will only put a light coat of wax on the car that will soon wear off anyway...

(iv) Show-Shine: When in the name of God are you going to use this? The idea is that you spray a bit of this Mr. Sheen type stuff on your car to restore that 'showroom/just washed shine' a few days after washing. So, a few days after your car was washed and cleaned to a sparkling finish, you spray the Mr. Sheen onto all of the dust that has accumulated since and start rubbing it in creating swirl marks. Great. :lol: :roll:

(v) Spray-On Alloy Wheel Polish: "Spray the polish onto the wheel but don't get any on the brake disks"...oops...! So, you have to actually take the wheel off to use this polish-in-a-can nonense to avoid covering the brakes with it. Sure if you were going to go to all of that bother you'd clean and seal the wheels properly using a better product while they were off.

(vi) 'Pre-wax cleanser': Give me strength. After claying this is simply not required. And on the subject of claying, I have to laugh at all of these pictures of used clay implying that all of the dirt on the clay is as a result of removed impurities/road grime. Most of the 'dirt' on the clay is simply the wax/polish previously applied to the car, not any form of contaminant on the surface of the paint at all, so clay isn't as magic as people think it is. Claying is worthwhile, but its effect is usually greatly exaggerated.

(vi) The famous 'two-bucket' method of washing. Take your two little buckets and throw them as far away as you can. Now take the hose and wash the car using the continuous flow of clean water it supplies. Much easier? Yes. Much better? Yes. Simple. The 'two-bucket' method - honest to god, such nonsense!  :roll:


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## marTTyn (Dec 29, 2008)

I fall guilty to a few of the above products...
Makes me feel good though and detailer/snowfoam/2 buckets doesnt do any harm [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)




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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

:lol: :lol: MiniTTGuy, I think you'll like my review in the show & shine section in which I compared using water as a "detailing spray" to using a detailing spray. 

I've thought for a long time that snow foam simply would have to defy the laws physics. Foam can't "lift" dirt off a surface. And dirt particles that are denser than water will sink and move nowhere on any vaguely flat surface as the foam floats over the top of it. I've tried a couple of approaches to this idea: Using really thick foam squeezed out of a sponge. Consistency of shaving foam... slides down roof. Particles of dirt clearly visible where they were. Years ago I used to use a jetwash at a service station. Even after using the brush, foam, and pressure rinse, the side of the car would still be covered in very fine dirt. What snow foam might do is soak any thick dry mud so it comes off easily, but let's not pretend you couldn't get the same result with a rain shower or a hose. 

Shampoo... I used to use fancy stuff at £20+ a bottle. Now I use Johnsons Baby Bath. Same result, clean car, wax still on the car, more foam, smells nicer. Although it dries to a messier finish on a warm day before rinsing.

Wheel protectant spray. Pure horse crud. Wheels get filthy, and it doesn't make the dirt come off any easier. Why would it?

I'm a firm believer in not buying products that do feck-all :roll:

:lol: :lol: wja96 :lol:


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## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

The thing about all chemicals is that they all do something.

Snow Foam

The concept of using a matrix to keep the chemical in contact with the surface is well proven so if you want to keep a chemical in contact with a vertical surface a gel is the best thing. But you can't see a gel, so most chemicals foam so you can see where you've applied it.

The whole 'weight of the foam' dragging physical dirt downwards is an additional benefit. The foam is there to keep tyhe chemical clinging. If the foam doesn't sit (dwell) on the vertical surface for at least 10 minutes it's no good. You should be able to draw a horizontal line across the foam and it should take several minutes for the gap to disappear.

Most people use cold water. To make proper foam you need at least 50°C water.

Snow Foam is only really any good for long-contact wax stripping in my opinion.

pH Neutral Detergents

pH is a shocking way to decide which detergent you want to use. Alkaline chemicals (high pH) are a cheap way of getting a detergent effect with fats. That's why they are brilliant at stripping off waxes, but they won't touch synthetic sealants because the sealant isn't a fat. Acid chemicals are great for descaling. To remove highly proteinaceous debris you want a chlorinated chemical. pH neutral detergents work just fine, because they're not actually pH neutral, they're just a little bit less alkaline than most. Your statement about dirt falling off waxed cars is only partially correct because all the wax does is cause the debris on the surface to form up into little balls when they get into contact with water. It helps, but the real benefit is you can strip off teh layer of wax and all the dirt is gone.

Quick Detailing Sprays

These definitely do work. They are optical depth enhancers and if you have a smooth surface to apply them onto they will make it look smoother and deeper.

Show Shine

Again - this is a specialist product that will give fabulous depth under the right conditions. Just because it doesn't work on your car, doesn't mean that it won't help get you into the top 5 at a Concours d'Elegance competition.

Spray on Alloy Wheel Polish

I'm not sure what you mean by this but you repeatedly seem to confuse polish (an abrasive designed to give a smooth finish) with a wax or sealant which is a protective coating. As I take my wheels off the car every 6-8 weeks to clean them inside and out I don't see the problem with using a spray sealant on them while they are off and clean. I wouldn't use a wax to protect them as most waxes have issues with brake dust but a good sealant like CG109 will help keep them clean for longer.

Pre-wax cleanser

This is gentle degreaser with fillers in it to help smooth out the surface after polishing. It has a place in the detailers arsenal of chemicals.

Two-bucket Method?

This is an interesting one as I actually use 3 buckets and 3 mitts and wash the car from the bottom up a la Rolls Royce Chauffeur School. You can wash a car like that with 5l of water carried in a can in the boot. On the TT I do the wheels and lower waistline with the first mitt and 2l of water. Then I do the sides, front and back with the second mitt and bucket with 1l of water and finally the roof, tailgate and bonnet have a further wash mitt and 1l of water. The last 1l of water is poured on from a watering can. A hosepipe is incredibly wasteful. And, if you're in a hard water area, a great way to get streaky paint.

I love my car, and I wouldn't want it to be non-shiny, so I look after it. If I spend a few pounds on stuff that works, then that's my prerogative.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

Interesting stuff! I wash and rinse mine with about 10-12L and thought I was doing well. How the chuff do you rinse an entire car with 1L of water?  If you start at the bottom, that's the grubbiest and most abrasive part... isn't it better to start at the top so water running down softens dirt lower down? :?


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## pars_andy (Dec 10, 2009)

Surely the two bucket method is actually to ensure that any grit picked up by your mitt is rinsed off before dunking it back in the shampoo? Maybe I've picked up the original poster wrong but I thought he was suggesting that the second bucket is being used to rinse the car. :-/


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## Smoothie (Feb 10, 2010)

(vi) Shampoo: From what I have found, using shampoo softens the water and helps your cloths glide across the surface of the paint without it dragging. And if water was good enough then the misses wouldn't be buying Fairy Liquid 

(vi) Pre-wax cleaner: I use Klasse All-in-one - its a cleaner and acrylic wax in one product. I use it after claying the car to remove any bits I might have missed. It cleans the paint and also puts down, what would be best described as an undercoat for me to build layers of wax on top. It lasts a lot longer than a good wax on its own.


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## LOWEY (Oct 3, 2009)

ScoobyTT said:


> Interesting stuff! I wash and rinse mine with about 10-12L and thought I was doing well. How the chuff do you rinse an entire car with 1L of water?  If you start at the bottom, that's the grubbiest and most abrasive part... isn't it better to start at the top so water running down softens dirt lower down? :?


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Paul


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## beany_bot (Sep 1, 2010)

I had to make an account just to tell you that you are a clown :mrgreen:

worth it thou


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## -Mat- (Apr 28, 2010)

dear OP


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## magic1 (Mar 13, 2008)

-Mat- said:


> dear OP


Too funny :lol:


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## Spuj (Sep 1, 2010)




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## leenx (Feb 8, 2010)

MINI-TTGuy said:


> A list of useless products designed to con those into car detailing!
> 
> (i) Snowfoam: Such a load of nonsense. The idea is that you spray foamed up shampoo on a dirty car, let it settle, and then rinse it off. Sounds great, but guess what, you still have to wash the car afterwards as normal because the snowfoam only takes the heaviest dirt off. Why go through the pointless snowfoam step when you can just wash the car and get all of the dirt off in one go? :roll:
> 
> ...


Absolutely brilliant! Had me in hysterics!! :lol: :lol:


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## TOGWT (Sep 1, 2010)

_I have added my opinion / answer to this post to promote discussion (after all that's the point of a forum) not to cause an argument. We are all entitled to our opinions and however much I may disagree I respect them as such_

A list of useless products designed to con those into car detailing!

(i) Snowfoam: Such a load of nonsense. The idea is that you spray foamed up shampoo on a dirty car, let it settle, and then rinse it off. Sounds great, but guess what, you still have to wash the car afterwards as normal because the snowfoam only takes the heaviest dirt off. Why go through the pointless snowfoam step when you can just wash the car and get all of the dirt off in one go?

_ A: Also known as foam cannon, foam lance or cam spray unit; the principle behind them is to minimize the amount of paint surface friction necessary to clean the vehicle by pre-soaking it with foam giving the emulsifiers time to work. By allowing the aerated cleaning agent to dwell on the paint surface, giving the surfactants time to reduce the surface tension; so that water /foam can spread and properly 'wet' the surface
The foam starts loosening the dirt and lubricating the paint surface immediately, thus gentle touch washing with a soft mitt substantially decreases the risk of micro-marring because the paint is covered in a layer of lubrication._

(ii) Shampoo: More rubbish. If you use a non-PH-neutral one it strips off all of your polish and wax, if you do use a PH-neutral one what does it do that's better than just washing the car with plain water? Nothing. The dirt will easily fall off a waxed/polished car, so using shampoo is pointless.

_A: Rolls Royce and the Bentley Motor Company in the 1930, along with BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari and many other fine-automobile makers used to recommend washing automobiles bodywork with just plain low pressure water. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the road dirt, grease and oil or the protein base of stubborn spots, like bug remains The soaps and detergents available were very alkaline, but soap technology has come a long way since then, and most car washing concentrates contain surfactants and polymer surface lubricants to avoid surface scratches and safe detergents that will remove road grime, grease, etc.

The high-quality car wash shampoos made today are very gentle on paint, plastic and rubber. A good car wash shampoo provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to maintain the shine. Be sure to select a quality product that's not counterproductive to your detailing efforts.

Being cognizant of what are the most frequent causes of surface marring is important and then taking steps to reducing or eliminate those causes. A majority of swirls and scratches (70 % +) come from using improper washing and drying products and techniques Preventing swirls will best be achieved by washing and drying with extreme care. This is the step where the majority of swirls are added so good technique and quality products (micro fibre waffle weaves drying towels) are a must. _

(iii) Quick-Detailing-Spray: If you wax the car with a decent wax at least once a month, there is no need for the little 'wax top ups' provided by these sprays. If you don't properly wax the car regularly, then buy a decent wax and forget about 'quick detailing sprays' that will only put a light coat of wax on the car that will soon wear off anyway...

_A: Agree on this one, on the basis of the more often you 'touch' a paint surface the more likly you are to cause surface marring or scratches_

(iv) Show-Shine: When in the name of God are you going to use this? The idea is that you spray a bit of this Mr. Sheen type stuff on your car to restore that 'showroom/just washed shine' a few days after washing. So, a few days after your car was washed and cleaned to a sparkling finish, you spray the Mr. Sheen onto all of the dust that has accumulated since and start rubbing it in creating swirl marks. Great.

_A: Glaze - used by detailers for show car to obtain maximum light reflection. They produce a "wet" look to the surface with oils to maximize surface gloss and may contain fillers (Kaolin or China clay) to hide minor defects not removed by polishing or for use when the paint is thin and you don't want to remove any more, even if it is microns. They will provide little if any surface protection._

(v) Spray-On Alloy Wheel Polish: "Spray the polish onto the wheel but don't get any on the brake disks"...oops...! So, you have to actually take the wheel off to use this polish-in-a-can nonense to avoid covering the brakes with it. Sure if you were going to go to all of that bother you'd clean and seal the wheels properly using a better product while they were off.

_A: Some valid points. But (here we go again with 'but'  ) once you apply the brakes for the first time any 'Wheel Polish' will be removed by friction_

(vi) 'Pre-wax cleanser': Give me strength. After claying this is simply not required. And on the subject of claying, I have to laugh at all of these pictures of used clay implying that all of the dirt on the clay is as a result of removed impurities/road grime. Most of the 'dirt' on the clay is simply the wax/polish previously applied to the car, not any form of contaminant on the surface of the paint at all, so clay isn't as magic as people think it is. Claying is worthwhile, but its effect is usually greatly exaggerated.

A: _There is a big difference between 'chemical' (Pre-wax) and abrasive cleaning (detailer's clay) The paint surface should be as clean as possible, this will ensure that nothing comes between the polishing pad and the surface to interfere with the abrasives and the pads will not get clogged with surface debris. The same is true when applying a wax or solvent, a clean surface allows them to bond properly, which will prolong their durability_

(vi) The famous 'two-bucket' method of washing. Take your two little buckets and throw them as far away as you can. Now take the hose and wash the car using the continuous flow of clean water it supplies. Much easier? Yes. Much better? Yes. Simple. The 'two-bucket' method - honest to god, such nonsense!

_A: Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard ® in place at the bottom of the wash bucket, you simply nib the brush or wash mitt across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.
This grit / debris will settle through the grid to the bottom of the wash bucket and your brush or wash mitt remains grit free. It makes this bucket is ideal for use as the rinse bucket in a two-bucket wash system; the other bucket contains the wash concentrate solution._


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## Scooby-Doo (Sep 29, 2006)

> Now I use Johnsons Baby Bath.


 +1 and it smells nice as well.


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## dbairduk (Aug 3, 2010)

I was going to invest in snow foam... I do alot of motor way miles and then into the country... so get alot of bugs splating on my car.. 
I guess I have to learn to wash and detail a car... i just took my old car to the hand car wash every few months!

I am quite lazy in all honesty and a bit of cash for a shorter wash by hand would do me fine! I will be sticking to the 2 bucket method for now though and ignoring the OP as I just bought 2 buckets and a wool wash glove! Only given my TT a quick wash with the pressure washer so far though! 
I treated my old rover to a nice wash with some antique looking 10-15 year old tutle wax shampoo & wax all in one :lol: (won't be touching my TT)


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## leenx (Feb 8, 2010)

dbairduk said:


> I was going to invest in snow foam... I do alot of motor way miles and then into the country... so get alot of bugs splating on my car..
> I guess I have to learn to wash and detail a car... i just took my old car to the hand car wash every few months!


NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## dbairduk (Aug 3, 2010)

sorry was editing my post to ad some more.. what NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! about the snow foam?


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## TonyZed (Jun 14, 2005)

> If you start at the bottom, that's the grubbiest and most abrasive part... isn't it better to start at the top so water running down softens dirt lower down? :?


The reason you start at the bottom rather than the top is because the chemicals in your bucket will cause streaking on the paintwork as it runs down. If you wash regularly that won't be so obvious, but it can still be seen. 

Incidentally, the best money spent, if you live in a hard water area, is on a water softener http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlo-Inc-155-Water-Softener-/320579988162?pt=UK_HGKitchen_SmallApp_RL would seem a bargain for someone, but http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Timer-control...day-/320460428420?pt=UK_HGKitchen_SmallApp_RL is the type I bought. Mine feeds the whole house but it would be a wise investment if it just fed the garage/outside tap. :lol:

TonyZ


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## leenx (Feb 8, 2010)

dbairduk said:


> sorry was editing my post to ad some more.. what NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! about the snow foam?


No sorry about using a hand car wash - they tore my car to shreads!! would only ever do my own or a proper detailer!


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## dbairduk (Aug 3, 2010)

lol well they did used to give me a free cherry cented air freshner! But it was often overpowerd by the smell of cannabis comming from their funny cigarettes! :lol: 
I won't be using them with the TT don't worry! I am putting some investment into doing it my self.


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## leenx (Feb 8, 2010)

dbairduk said:


> lol well they did used to give me a free cherry cented air freshner! But it was often overpowerd by the smell of cannabis comming from their funny cigarettes! :lol:
> I won't be using them with the TT don't worry! I am putting some investment into doing it my self.


Might of been different if they left their 'ahem' tobacco instead of the air freshener! :lol:


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## nvc (May 1, 2010)

for god sake , it is just a car, no need more than wash and vax,

it is not a woman's face!


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## steeve (Jul 8, 2010)

I dont agree that just water will remove the dirt. Try washing your hands just with water, clean, I dont think so.
The surface tension of water doesnt allow it to encapsulate dust or grit particles, they will float on the top or stay on your car. Add soap and the soap solution will now remove the dirt. Stopping you from rubbing grit and dust around your paintwork.
The thing that people do wrong with shampoo's is use too much, so much it will strip off your wax or whatever it is you use.

Use half the amount, or use the shampoo made to compliment your wax or glaze.


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## freeman (Jul 25, 2010)

nvc said:


> for god sake , it is just a car, no need more than wash and vax,
> 
> it is not a woman's face!


A human face is self healing from damages from sunlight, particles, blemishes, marks left by my back-hand... a Car's paint is not regenerative... sadly.


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## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

Washing the car from the bottom up using 3 mitts is kinder because you're always washing the cleanest bits of the car with the cleanest mitt.

The bottom mitt does the bottom of the car. It never touches the sides or top of the car. The side mit does the sides, obviously, and if you accidentally stray into bottom mitt territory it doesn't matter because that's already clean. The top mit does the bonnet, windows, roof and tailgate (the bits you REALLY see scratches on) and it doesn't matter if it touches the sides or bottom because they are already clean.

If you wash the car from the top down using only one mitt, you always run the risk of dragging dirt from lower down up the car and the mitt will never be as clean as the ones used on the sides or top as it has been used to clean the bottom and wheels.

Also, because you are using 3 buckets of water the very dirty water from the bottom cannot contaminate the sides and water from the top and side buckets can never contaminate the top. So you don't need deep water and a grit-guard, although I do use them for extra security.

It makes sense if you think about it.


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## davida-p (Apr 13, 2010)

wja96 said:


> Washing the car from the bottom up using 3 mitts is kinder because you're always washing the cleanest bits of the car with the cleanest mitt.
> 
> The bottom mitt does the bottom of the car. It never touches the sides or top of the car. The side mit does the sides, obviously, and if you accidentally stray into bottom mitt territory it doesn't matter because that's already clean. The top mit does the bonnet, windows, roof and tailgate (the bits you REALLY see scratches on) and it doesn't matter if it touches the sides or bottom because they are already clean.
> 
> ...


Now if I had 3 mitts on the go I would be going..are you top middle or bottom mitt..and which bucket do you belong in? Feel my stress levels rising already :wink:


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## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

davida-p said:


> Now if I had 3 mitts on the go I would be going..are you top middle or bottom mitt..and which bucket do you belong in? Feel my stress levels rising already :wink:


I have a red synthetic mitt for the bottom, a white synthetic mitt for the sides and a sheepskin mitt for the top. Red, white and black buckets to match. No stress. Unless I drop one, of course!


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## TOGWT (Sep 1, 2010)

steeve said:


> I dont agree that just water will remove the dirt. Try washing your hands just with water, clean, I dont think so.
> The surface tension of water doesnt allow it to encapsulate dust or grit particles, they will float on the top or stay on your car. Add soap and the soap solution will now remove the dirt. Stopping you from rubbing grit and dust around your paintwork.
> 
> The thing that people do wrong with shampoo's is use too much, so much it will strip off your wax or whatever it is you use.
> ...


Rolls Royce and the Bentley Motor Company in the 1930, along with BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari and many other fine-automobile makers used to recommend washing automobiles bodywork with just plain low pressure water. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the road dirt, grease and oil or the protein base of stubborn spots, like bug remains The soaps and detergents available were very alkaline, but soap technology has come a long way since then, and most car washing concentrates *contain surfactants and polymer surface lubricants to avoid surface scratches *and safe detergents that will remove road grime, grease, etc.

The high-quality car wash shampoos made today are very gentle on paint, plastic and rubber. A good car wash shampoo provides lubrication to prevent scratching and conditioners to maintain the shine. Be sure to select a quality product that's not counterproductive to your detailing efforts.

*Hard Water*

Hard water, which is any water that contains high concentrations of calcium, iron, magnesium and other minerals, thwarts the cleaning ability of a chemical. This is because the cleaner reacts to the minerals in hard water as soil, which uses up the cleaning agents.

To counteract this, some car wash concentrates contain chelating agents to bind the minerals, allowing cleaning agents to remove the soil unhindered. This is why some concentrates seem to foam better than others. 
If you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates, some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. Adding Optimum Polymer Technologies No Rinse (ONR) to a regular car wash soap will improves the results when using tap water (0.5 oz / gallon) always add it to the water to remove the minerals before adding your soap. This will maximize the benefits of using No Rinse in this manner.


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## davida-p (Apr 13, 2010)

wja96 said:


> davida-p said:
> 
> 
> > Now if I had 3 mitts on the go I would be going..are you top middle or bottom mitt..and which bucket do you belong in? Feel my stress levels rising already :wink:
> ...


I need to go and buy some more buckets....


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## m4rky (Jul 20, 2008)

MINI-TTGuy said:


> A list of useless products designed to con those into car detailing!
> 
> (i) Snowfoam: Such a load of nonsense. The idea is that you spray foamed up shampoo on a dirty car, let it settle, and then rinse it off. Sounds great, but guess what, you still have to wash the car afterwards as normal because the snowfoam only takes the heaviest dirt off. Why go through the pointless snowfoam step when you can just wash the car and get all of the dirt off in one go? :roll:
> 
> ...


Mate I loved this post :lol: :lol: :lol:

I think you are absolutely right [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I like to keep my car clean, tidy and polished but this PH neutral, enzyme, carnuba thingamebob stuff is total shit! Baby shampoo is meant for exactly that - babies!

It reminds me of the trend towards very expensive male beauty products - Total crap!

Here come the responses [smiley=zzz.gif]


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## zakkiaz (Jun 7, 2009)

MINI-TTGuy said:


> A list of useless products designed to con those into car detailing!
> 
> (i) Snowfoam: Such a load of nonsense. The idea is that you spray foamed up shampoo on a dirty car, let it settle, and then rinse it off. Sounds great, but guess what, you still have to wash the car afterwards as normal because the snowfoam only takes the heaviest dirt off. Why go through the pointless snowfoam step when you can just wash the car and get all of the dirt off in one go? :roll:
> 
> ...


Are you having a BAD!!!! :lol: :lol:

I'm only guilty of Auto Glym Aqua wax and very good it is too!


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## narbett (Jul 20, 2010)

Cant believe Ihave spent half an hour reading this crap about all these miricle products, the only thing miricle is the fact that you are all being ripped off filling these prics pockets with money, get a reality check and get in the real world, just wash the bloody car its only paint, not the crown jewls what a waste of money.


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## wja96 (Mar 4, 2010)

narbett said:


> Cant believe Ihave spent half an hour reading this crap about all these miricle products, the only thing miricle is the fact that you are all being ripped off filling these prics pockets with money, get a reality check and get in the real world, just wash the bloody car its only paint, not the crown jewls what a waste of money.


It's my money, I can see the difference. EVERYONE compliments me not only on how shiny my car looks but also how it's always clean (good sealant!). Even SWMBO had to admit that hers was 'like new' after I'd polished and sealed it.

These products do work. They are expensive, but if you want something to look it's best, it costs. Not just in money but also in time and effort.

If you don't care then go to a car wash, and we can both be happy.


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

Car products, like many products are full of bogus marketing and pure horse crud. You only have to look at the conflicting information about leather care to see that 95% of people crowing about how their product is the best thing ever for leather will be talking grade A bollocks.


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## dooka (Apr 28, 2006)

ScoobyTT said:


> Car products, like many products are full of bogus marketing and pure horse crud. You only have to look at the conflicting information about leather care to see that 95% of people crowing about how their product is the best thing ever for leather will be talking grade A bollocks.


For leather, just water in steam form..


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## BLinky (Jul 3, 2009)

what kind of comment is that? it's almost like Condoms are useless for chavs who enjoys going bareback? if you're not going to use the methods then of cos they're useless, if you don't remotely get anal enough about detailing then of cos they're useless, if you don't give a crap about saving water then of cos sitting the car under a clean waterfall while you're washing it is better... in other news F16s are useless to people who can't fly :O !! OMG! It's been proven that foaming works, but of cos sitting the car under a waterfall for 5 hours would do as well. if you get bird crap on a section of the car and can't be ass to 5hr detail the car all over again then cleansers are great?


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## ScoobyTT (Aug 24, 2009)

Proven that foaming works? A detergent and air mixture has no greater cleaning properties than just detergent. It's just that you're conditioned to believe that foam (air!) leads to a better clean for your dishes, your body, your teeth, anything really. You're told that foam is somehow more "active" than just a solution. It just looks and feels better.

If people want to believe that they need products, products, products to look after their car then that's up to them. They're just being marketed a load of crap that you don't need on the pretense that it's some kind of specialist treatment for material X, material Y. It's the same BS that has women believing they need entire aisles of shampoos appealing to their particular micro-demographic and fix problems with their hair that they're told they have or will have if they don't use them.

And so it came to pass that Joe Bloggs came to be sold bars of clay in epic quantities because he believes that this clay magically removes "contaminants" from his paint whilst magically managing to leave the paint behind. He no longer just cleans his leather, but feels compelled to apply "conditioner" which sits on the surface and does F-all, just like his wife and her hair. She's got cupboards of crap she doesn't need, and he's got a garage full of crap. :lol: It's BS!


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## BLinky (Jul 3, 2009)

no really, try it, go get your car covered in mud on a country lane or something, then go on a epic 3 day no life detailing journey and watch the form break up and carry the grit down before you raise.


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