# Battery drain ...



## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

Ok I am now totally confused and at my wits end. To start at the beginning .. whilst away visiting my parents in May my partner used my car (Audi TT mk1 Quattro). On noticing the indicator (offside) bulb needed replacing he pottered off to Halfords, bought the bulb and came home to do what he thought would be a 5 minutes job. We are relatively new to TT ownership and finding it drifts dramatically between love and hate !! Bulb eventually changed (corroded fitting hindered) he found the next morning the car wouldn't start. On my return we tried to charge the battery with jump leads, no joy. So good old RAC were called. They declared the battery dead and replaced it. After that for the first time in the 9 months since buying the car I started having troubles. Car not starting after only being left overnight resulted in more RAC visits and an obsessive relationship with a digital multimeter. Even setting my alarm to get up at 2am to take the thing for a drive just to ensure it would start in the morning for the school run. After much googling and reading of this forum I started pulling fuses one by one and taking battery readings hourly. Then after a week the battery stopped draining and we thought the problem was found. Strangely the fuses left out were minor ones (heated rear window, cig lighter, heated seats). Then this week this horrid issue started all over again. The car had been left undriven from sunday lunchtime to Tuesday morning, not a totally uncommon occurrence. After a few minutes with jump leads (and my partner constant muttering about being late for work) she started and off I went. Only to have to call the RAC out twice more over the week. I have left her (sorry but this car is definitely female !!) overnight with ALL fuses pulled and the battery reading did not change at all. So yet again the pulling of individual fuses and the resurrection of my digital multimeter obsession began. Now I am certain it is not the alternator as when running the battery shows up near 14. Plus when driving (with lights, radio, heater on) I have no problems. And battery reading when first parked is between 12.75 and 12.95 depending on the length of the journey. And two RAC men have said it is ok. Except one muttered something about an alternator having an intermittent short ???? The drain has gone from indicating its a intermittent parasitic one to taking a charged battery to beyond the point of the car starting within 2 hours. Now two days later the battery is loosing charge with no fuses in !! So what is causing it ? Is this a new problem or related to the one 6 months ago ? What do I try doing or testing now ??


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, You will need to check current drain on individual circuits using a multimeter & pulling individual fuses in turn as pic.










Do you have an after market radio fitted, that can be a source of current drain.
Alternator diodes can fail & cause a current drain.

Hoggy.


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

We have removed ALL the fuses  (panel on side of the dash, drivers side) and still there is consistent drain on the battery. It is now loosing 0.11 volts every 20 minutes. This seems different from the previous problem 6 months before as no longer intermittent. Is there any other fuses anywhere ? The radio is the original and that was the first fuse I pulled. Totally confused as to how there can be a drain on the battery if there are no fuses in the panel. What else can I try ?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Can you connect multimeter as per pic & measure the actual current drain.
Disconnect the plug at alternator.

Is there any corrosion/burning on fuse/links above battery.








Hoggy.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

What a nice diagram Hoggy!

There are more fuses on top of the battery as Hoggy shows. Some are fuse links for higher current such the alternator.

One thing that can also cause a drain is your alarm siren if the battery has leaked all over the circuit board. Does your alarm still work?

Watch the car load doesn't exceed 10A during testing or you may blow your multimeter fuse.

Rest state voltage on the battery will fall naturally with no load as the capacitance leaks away. A lead acid battery is also a very large capacitor as well as a fixed voltage source related to stored accumulated charge. Basically, after charging to full alternator voltage there will naturally be a rapid initial fall then slow decline (exponential decay - discharge of capacitance) reduction followed by a slower more linear voltage drop corresponding to accumulated charge reduction from load. You need to leave the battery for perhaps 20 minutes before you are safely into the linear region and able to make predictions about drain from terminal voltage.


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

I have read previous posts referring to the alarm battery. When I lock the car all the correct lights flash and the small red lights on the doors flash. But to be honest I have not tested the actual alarm works. If the problem lies with the alarm siren will the alarm not work at all ?? It has never gone off during the time I have owned the car but never had a situation when it should. The battery volts is dropping from 12.75 at turning engine off to 11.88 after approx 2 hours standing still, which is an excessive drain. I am so frustrated with the car at the moment we have disconnected the battery for the night, and left all of the fuses removed. It was that or risk me kicking the damn thing :-( Have retreated indoors to wallow in front of the telly and Google this problem excessively (yet again). Tomorrow we shall re tackle the problem. Assuming that reconnecting the battery and disconnecting the alternator is worth trying ?? The RAC man stood scratching his head for 15 mins under the bonnet, he kept moving the meter (a much better one than mine) between the various leads and could not see any drain. He did check the leads into the battery and they seemed all good. He said the alternator is the far left one, someone for some reason has marked the bolt in yellow, which is helpful


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

John-H said:


> What a nice diagram Hoggy!
> 
> One thing that can also cause a drain is your alarm siren if the battery has leaked all over the circuit board. Does your alarm still work?


Hi John, Yes, quite a useful little pic, as it's quite difficult to explain in words. 
How did I forget to mention the alarm siren ?

Hoggy


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Here's a prediction of capacity from open circuit voltage:

12.65V 100% 
12.45V 75% 
12.24V 50% 
12.06V 25% 
11.89V or less - Discharged 
11.6V or below - Keeping the battery in this state will damage it vastly reducing it's capacity.

This is with no load however. The rate of discharge you describe is heavy. Approximately two hours to discharge for a 60 Amp/hour battery (if it does get that bad) is something of the order of 30 Amps. Whatever it is will be generating 360 Watts of heat. I think the little alarm would burst into flames if it were the cause.

I think I'd try disconnecting the alternator link and monitoring voltage. Don't try to measure the current for this as you'd blow a fuse if it is passing such a high current. In fact if the alternator is the drain you'll see a spark on disconnection. The other possibility I can think of is an internal fault on the battery but you say it's been replaced?


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## rodhotter (Dec 30, 2011)

its said the OE sound system may drain power so i just installed a $10 quick disconnect in the battery, turn the knob + everything is off!!! my TT roadster is my fun usually summer car that hibernates in our cold, snowy winter when the roads get salted heavily!!


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## KTB (Aug 3, 2015)

I had same issue as OP and turned out to be alarm siren in the wing.

To test if alarm siren works just remove key from ignition open and close the door but stay inside. Lock car and after 30 seconds cough and wave your arms  Alarm should sound and indicators flash.

I picked up alarm siren from breaker for around £20 on eBay. Doesn't have to be exact one as think mine came from an A6 but connectors are the same.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

This forum is turning out to be an amazing help !! Ok so the plot thickens ... battery held its charge all afternoon and evening but didn't trust it overnight so disconnected it. Sat in the car and followed the instructions for testing the alarm, pretty sure we had the neighbours watching us waving our arms around. Plenty of flashing lights but no siren. The bonnet was popped but not open, assuming this would not affect anything ?? So weekend job is to locate the offending item and change it. The only thing is not 100% sure of what I should be buying in replacement or where from ???? Was dark and very wet by the time we got home yesterday so testing the alternator has been delayed a day or two. But will do it as not 100% convinced it isn't causing issues. Knowing our luck it will be the combination of a couple of things. 
Other strange thing was whilst driving the interior lights just randomly came on, spooked the hell out of me. Especially as damn things haven't been working for last few months and assumed I had affected them with the few fuses I had left out after problems back in May. After having a closer look it seems the switch sticks, could this have contributed to the battery drain ? I love this car but boy does she keep us on our toes :-(


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## firediamonduk (Dec 24, 2013)

Interior lights probably not the problem as if they are left on the car switches them off automatically after a while when it is locked.

Alarm siren is easy to get to, open little flap on passenger side of boot, undo 2 wing nut type things holding the rear light cluster in and remove the cluster and you will see it sat in there behind where the cluster was. Unplug it to check for any damage to the connector or signs of a leak from the internal battery. Leave it unplugged and see if your fault remains... It wont make any difference having it unplugged as it doesnt work anyway so you can confirm this is the offending item before you splash any cash on another one...


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

CAWinter said:


> This forum is turning out to be an amazing help !! Ok so the plot thickens ... battery held its charge all afternoon and evening but didn't trust it overnight so disconnected it. Sat in the car and followed the instructions for testing the alarm, pretty sure we had the neighbours watching us waving our arms around. Plenty of flashing lights but no siren. The bonnet was popped but not open, assuming this would not affect anything ?? So weekend job is to locate the offending item and change it. The only thing is not 100% sure of what I should be buying in replacement or where from ???? Was dark and very wet by the time we got home yesterday so testing the alternator has been delayed a day or two. But will do it as not 100% convinced it isn't causing issues. Knowing our luck it will be the combination of a couple of things.
> Other strange thing was whilst driving the interior lights just randomly came on, spooked the hell out of me. Especially as damn things haven't been working for last few months and assumed I had affected them with the few fuses I had left out after problems back in May. After having a closer look it seems the switch sticks, could this have contributed to the battery drain ? I love this car but boy does she keep us on our toes :-(


I'm just changing my alarm. 
Audi part no on mine is 8L0 951 605, there is also an 8L0 951 605 A and 8L0 951 605 C that I'm aware of
the A & C versions might need minor mods as have a bigger bolt?
I'm trying a cheap VW one and will post if it fits.

To access alarm, open vertical little flap in boot on LHS
undo the two plastic twist wheels, one black easy to see, other white not so!
Might be tight so either a rag round outside to protect fingers or allan key / bit in centre if not too chewed up!
pull light back, there is a third knuckle connector that pops off if you give it a bit of a pull.
be careful as there are some plastic tabs that get snapped if you twist it I believe
Also don't go too mad as wiring still connected which needs disconnecting!
note, first time i undid the wiring coz of the awkward light shape i dropped it!
peer in and you will see alarm.
there is a plastic tab on the side of the connector which needs moving away from the alarm body
then connector will slide off
bolt is at back, pretty sure it's a 10mm nut
check the connector attached to the wire as mine was shafted

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1165385


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## RobLE (Mar 20, 2005)

Interesting thread and as I was reading I thought - alarm siren - and as I scrolled I see other people are mentioning the same.

Reason for me mentioning it is not due to experiences with my TT - it's regarding my Jeep Patiot:

My siren kept going off in that, but only when I first locked it - it would go off 2/3 times then would be fine all night. Still, very annoying (especially for the neighbours if I came home late!) Garage thought it may be an issue with the main battery in the Jeep as it is original (from 2007) and if it had a slight drain it could cause the alarm to sound. They fitted a new one - but the wrong one! :roll: and within 4 days the battery was completely flat, with not enough power to even flash the red dash-indicator for the alarm, let alone open the doors etc. It had never gone flat before.

They checked the wiring and replaced a couple of wires on the main loom which didn't look perfect and put a new Earth in. And the original battery back on to see if it would at least prevent the battery drain, if not the alarm.

Alarm still going off and now, this battery also completely flat within 5 days. As I said, never went flat before they changed the battery to the wrong one!

I took it in to an auto electrician last week who for the alarm sounding at least, diagnosed the alarm siren/battery. They have removed it (the Jeep also has a horn-alarm and immobiliser). They said the alarm siren could also have been causing the main battery drain. It's a matter of waiting to see now although a few days have passed and all seems ok so far.

So, I would say the alarm siren also seems likely with your TT - can you just remove the siren and try it for a week or so without to see if that cures it?

As a footnote - the Jeep has a VW/Audi 2.0TD engine so quite likely it's the same alarm siren and that it is causing the same/similar issues.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Always amazes me why everyone takes the rear light out to remove the alarm. I've had it in and out load of times just accessing through the flap.


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## firediamonduk (Dec 24, 2013)

Takes 2 mins to whip the light out so why not make it easier...


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

John-H said:


> Always amazes me why everyone takes the rear light out to remove the alarm. I've had it in and out load of times just accessing through the flap.


firstly ohh err missus!
secondly, you strike me as someone very knowledgable about dismantling / assembling things John,
I suspect you have no issues working blind and in tight spaces!
But there is absolutely no way I would have got the connector apart without being able to see what I was doing 
(at least the first time!)
Finally I'm not called sausage fingers because of my nimbleness and dexterity
;-)


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Jez xbx said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > Always amazes me why everyone takes the rear light out to remove the alarm. I've had it in and out load of times just accessing through the flap.
> ...


Ooh errr missus indeed oops! :lol: You are very kind and I didn't mean to sound negative (or anything else) at all. I just think it's easy to do it blind and perhaps that is to do with having "felt" for these sort of things before often enough. When you feel around with a small ring spanner in your hand you can feel the nut, the bracket and the orientation of the spanner - you get a picture in your mind of the whole thing. The spanner goes rigid when it's engaged and then you can work it until it's loose. Take the spanner out of the way then work the nut with your fingers until it comes off. Easy peasy. Sorry if that was more rudeness - it could have been worse! :roll:


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

Well after those posts I was a bit unsure about tackling the alarm siren. What with sausage fingers and such. But that came out surprisingly easy. We decided to just disconnect the siren with christmas so close and the weather so bad. Then tackle the actually removing it and changing the battery in the new year. And a couple of nice reliable weeks passed. Then this morning dead as a dodo :-( It was taken on a good long drive Sunday morning and left sitting from lunch time till 10'ish the following morning. I give up !! What can drain a battery dead in under 24 hours ??? RAC man did say the alternators can have intermident drains, but my partner rolled his eyes at this ?? When ever we stand there watching the battery voltage and something causing a drain nothing happens, it's sneaky !! So could the alternator charge that battery ok when driving but then have strange drains on it when car is left ???? Help please ...


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Quite conceivably yes. Although there could be other causes. With the alternator, it needs to be able to churn out 80 amps or so to cover the heaviest of electrical loading from equipment, heated seats, lights etc as well as charge the battery to recover the biggest likely cranking loss and the loss from standby between running.

So it has big coils and rectifiers along with a regulator to handle this. Those components don't come into play when the car isn't running but a fault on the regulator causing leakage (it's still connected to +12V) can leak away charge. It depends how much leakage. Leakage can also be in wet wiring loom connectors, dashpods, radios sirens etc.

Let's say it takes 2.5 amps leakage. That could drain a new 60 Amp-Hour battery in 24 hours. If your battery is old and only has 10 AH capacity then a mere 400 mA could flatten it in that time.

You can measure the back leakage into the alternator easily by disconnecting the generator and using your multimeter to bridge the disconnected fuse link. There should be zero current with the engine not running.:










If you've not done it yet it would be a good idea. So too would getting your battery checked as it may be on its last legs and be the root cause due to low capacity and has just caught you out. I know you said it had a long drive but was that continuous? You didn't stop at the shops before driving the last 500 yards home or leave the lights or electrical loads on for a few minutes before getting out? - this could drain a small capacity considerably.


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

Thank you, this forum really is turning out to be an amazing help !! The battery was new in May. It was fitted (and supplied) by the RAC when the problem first occurred. They have been called out since and assure me there is nothing wrong with the battery, but I have not had it independently tested. They have also stood there for 20mins, with their much better quality digital meters than mine, testing everything and can not see what is causing a drain. It seems to be happening after the engine is off and left for more than an hour. I have systematically gone through the fuses taking them out, reading the battery and then going and checking it every hour. Obviously over a period of several days and was down to the last 9 fuses when we disconnected the siren and had two weeks of no problems. Foolishly congratulating ourselves on finding the problem :-( Those fuses that were left in when battery was still draining were the ones listed in the manual as to be for the engine timing (seems several of those) S Contact (sorry but don't know what that one is), magnetic clutch, ESP, auto gear box and fuel pump. None of those seem to be the sort to cause a problem are they ? We knew when we bought her a few bits needed doing, one of the joys of older cars but this was not on our list. We will try the test you mentioned but must admit I am wondering if work changing the alternator ?? :-( When I drove the car yesterday it started first time so assumed battery charged ok, we went to Hassocks which is about 15mins of country lanes. Were parked for 10mins, as were only getting my son a hamster, then drove home. So not a massive journey but would say enough to recharge and drain starting the engine made ?


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## Neil (May 7, 2002)

Not read the whole thread, but given its about battery drain my first suggestion would be do you have a tracker? When they are old they can start draining the battery very quickly.


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

I had a problem with battery drain turned out to be the voltage regulator on the alternator.

Matt


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## Jez xbx (Oct 24, 2014)

Something else that might be relevant
My alarm has corroded and failed etc etc
But it's also taken out the plastic plug that clips on to the alarm
And I think it's even tracked back up the wire into the wiring harness
I replaced the connector and when I cut the wire the copper was 'blackened'
So might be worth giving the connector and wires a bit of scrutiny ???


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

If it's not the ideas listed above could it be the pulley on the alternator? Some have a freewheel hub that does fail (normally causing plenty of damage after bearing failure) but I wondered if it was slipping then you won't get a proper charge? If faulty you can replace just the pulley


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

rusTTy_racer said:


> If it's not the ideas listed above could it be the pulley on the alternator? Some have a freewheel hub that does fail (normally causing plenty of damage after bearing failure) but I wondered if it was slipping then you won't get a proper charge? If faulty you can replace just the pulley


 This can be checked/ruled out, by monitoring Code 20.


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## bmcc (Mar 11, 2015)

You need to test for parasitic drain on the battery by checking amps rather than volts as Hoggy has already said. I've always found this fella helpful as he goes through the problems in detail showing the tools you need and the procedure to use:


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Skee, according to your video Code 20 reads A/C compressor(A/C clutch) voltage. How would this help please?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

rusTTy_racer said:


> Skee, according to your video Code 20 reads A/C compressor(A/C clutch) voltage. How would this help please?


Hi, As Skee has gone off line.
Code 20 reads voltage to A/C clutch which is the same voltage as in the system, so if alternator not charging, the volts will battery volts, 12 volts ish instead of 14 volts ish.
Hoggy.


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

John-H said:


> I've had it in and out load of times just accessing through the flap.


So now we know why John is always in such a good mood 

Anyway back on topic...

Warren.


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Great stuff thanks Hoggy, will have a look for sure  BTW do I remember that you said if your rev needle jumps a little when ignition on but engine not running that could be a faulty crank sensor? thanks


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

rusTTy_racer said:


> Great stuff thanks Hoggy, will have a look for sure  BTW do I remember that you said if your rev needle jumps a little when ignition on but engine not running that could be a faulty crank sensor? thanks


Hi, No, I think I may of mentioned if TT fails to start & Tacho needle doesn't jump a little while spinning engine over, it could be a faulty crank sensor.
Hoggy.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

warrenstuart said:


> John-H said:
> 
> 
> > I've had it in and out load of times just accessing through the flap.
> ...


I 'eared that pardon? 

So, has the OP ruled out the alternator regulator yet by removing and bridging the generator fuse link with his multimeter set to current?

That fella in the video that looks like Lemmy off Motorhead (RIP) was a bit confusing by apparently cranking the car over with a supposedly flat battery but letting that and the unexplained "70" pass his method is sound.

When it comes to disabling the door switch; the TT door switch is in the lock mechanism, so to disable it you need to slot a screwdriver into the lock sideways to mimic the entry of the striker bar on the door pillar. You need to remember to mimic door opening when you've finished by dragging the screwdriver out whilst pulling the door handle too. Use of the remote may come into play as well.


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## jhoneyman (Aug 8, 2012)

i would seriously consider looking at the drain over fuse 15 (Dashpod)

Mines was the battery drain culprit.


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## CAWinter (Dec 5, 2015)

Replacement alternator has been ordered and should be here by Tuesday. Unfortunately we only have a bog standard digital meter so measuring the amps is not working and having to fumble our way a bit. But as battery is draining much faster at the moment (and Christmas holidays) we have resorted to disconnecting it when the vehicle is not in use. Hard to believe a fuse can drain it that quickly, especially as only does it when no one is watching. Decided to replace the alternator as to be honest it seems the most likely culprit after all the other tests we have tried. So will let you know once that's fitted if battery problem persists. Although at that point think I will have resorted to kicking the damn thing :-(


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

CAWinter said:


> Replacement alternator has been ordered and should be here by Tuesday. Unfortunately we only have a bog standard digital meter so measuring the amps is not working and having to fumble our way a bit. But as battery is draining much faster at the moment (and Christmas holidays) we have resorted to disconnecting it when the vehicle is not in use. Hard to believe a fuse can drain it that quickly, especially as only does it when no one is watching. Decided to replace the alternator as to be honest it seems the most likely culprit after all the other tests we have tried. So will let you know once that's fitted if battery problem persists. Although at that point think I will have resorted to kicking the damn thing :-(


Hi, Would have been £100s cheaper to just replace the Voltage Reg as that is where the prob would be, if it is the alternator. 
Disconnecting plug from alternator could also have proved it.
Hoggy.


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## alf1956 (Jul 29, 2010)

Did you ever find the fault ? I have a similar fault where as the battery goes flat when it feels like it !


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## markymark1 (Feb 12, 2014)

hi guy's, i'm watching this post with much interest as my TT is suffering from battery drain also. I've looked through a lot of the posts and it would appear that there are numerous reasons why this should happen and not a problem that can be traced easily.
I've had the dashpod repaired, removed the alarm siren, disconnected the bose audio system,checked the alternator output and have had the battery checked, one thing i've noticed after starting the car from cold the battery warning light comes on and the rev counter shuts down when its running, should this happen if the car is being charged by the alternator sufficiently if the battery is low?
Did you discover anything useful when you changed the alternator CA Winter?

any help would be useful, cheers all.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Mark, I would suspect your battery is on it's way out. Low volts after start can cause rev counter to shut down, as you say.
You could try a 24 hour charge, to see it that improves it.
Hoggy.


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## markymark1 (Feb 12, 2014)

I've suspected the battery for a while Hoggy which i guess is the next thing to check, I've just taken it on a run down to Devon and overnight it's lost it's charge again, I have noticed on starting up recently that the voltage is reading 9.9 volts (on 20c) rising slowly to 14.2/3 over about 2 mins then stays steady. 
one other question, I don't have the Bose stereo code for the radio is there any way of getting it?

regards, Mark.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

The handbook says your dealer will be happy to provide it but if they have to read the serial number (e.g. radio changed) they may want to charge. Also they won't provide it over the phone which leads you down the "Let me book you in sir..." route which is inconvenient and likely to end up with a charge.

So, the trick is to take your radio out and read the serial on the printed label. Ring them up and give them the serial number, explain you completely understand they can't give the pin code over the phone, so then suggest to them that after they look up the pin on their secure system you will later turn up at a convenient time and let them walk out to your car and try the code whilst you are not looking.

If the code works then it belongs to the radio clearly. If it doesn't then they have not disclosed someone else's code to a third party. They can't charge you for a short walk :wink:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Click link for Radio Code from Ebay.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1274714&p=6989330&hilit=radio+code#p6989330
Hoggy.


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## damien.wrl (Sep 20, 2009)

Wasn't there a few incidents where a hidden tracker has caused battery drain especially with the unit back up battery not being replaced every 2 years ?


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## alf1956 (Jul 29, 2010)

The possibility of a tracker drain is very interesting to me as I have a battery drain on my TT & I have a tracker fitted ? I have emailed the tracker company to ask them if they can check anything from their end.


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## alf1956 (Jul 29, 2010)

My brother had a brand new battery he bought for his car but it want that which was the problem so I loaned the battery from him on 28th May just to try to eliminate things although we had the original battery tested last year when we started with the battery drain problem & it tested ok so i put it on my TT & touch wood I haven't had a flat battery yet. I put the old battery in the garage & checked it 2 weeks ago & it was showing 12.4 volts but I checked it yesterday & it had dropped to 10.4 volts I am right in thinking that it should still be on 12 volts as it is just stood?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Alf1954, 10.4 volts after 2 weeks & no load tells me one cell has/is failing.
Ctek charger may bring it back to life, but more than likely knackered. 
Hoggy.


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## alf1956 (Jul 29, 2010)

Thanks Hoggy. I was thinking the same that it should stay up around 12 volts with no load on it & was looking for some confirmation on it. If I have found the problem I will be more than happy as its been an ongoing problem for many months.


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