# How to: replace your springs! (long post with pics)



## Chip_iTT

A quick how to, unfortunately I didnt take as many pics as I would have liked.. I just replaced my off-road springs with some relatively new facelift springs, but the same procedure applies for more upmarket products!

This isn't a difficult job, but involves some fairly strenuous spanner work as well as crouching down, so not for the congenitally unfit!

*What you need:*
21mm deep dish ring spanner or 21mm deep socket with flats on the outside + adjustable spanner, long 7mm Allen key with handle (Laser part, £3.99 from Halfords), 10, 18, 21mm sockets, 18mm ring spanner, T20 torx bit, torque wrench, spring compressors (again Laser from Halfords, £18 approx), big flat blade screwdriver, wd40, bottle jack.

Oh err... springs 

*Fronts:*
Jack her up and support safely on axlestands (note my nice shiney new ones with rubber blocks on the top). I have decided the safest and quickest way to jack her up is a single central trolley jack using a 2ft length of 4" x 3" to spread the load across the rear of the front subframe, then lower back onto axle stands under the front lifting points, keeping the jack lightly loaded.










Next, remove road wheels and identify the points to undo... in this order: on both sides, locking bolt and nut in the wheel bearing housing across the bottom of the strut (A, 18mm socket and ring), drop link nut at top rear of strut (B, 18mm), clamp for brake lines in middle rear of strut (C, 10mm), passenger side only: clamp for brakepad warning cable on side of strut (20mm Torx), Xenon leveling sensor on wishbone (10mm, if fitted).










Now, with the bottle jack, raise the wishbone about 4-6" to compress the spring and fit the spring compressors.










There is precious little room and I found the easiest way to fit them was with the nut at the top... and just tighten finger tight. This is important, if you don't do this the strut will be too long to come out of the wheel bearing housing. They don't need to be done up more than finger tight as they are just to retain the loading once the housing is dropped. Keep it raised for now...










Now it is time to undo the top nut, loosen it a few turns but do not remove yet...


















Its a stiffnut so is tight all the way up. Ideally you should replace it... but some loctite on refitting will suffice...

Now comes the fun and games! Firstly WD40 the joint between the strut and the wheelbearing housing. If you feel round the back there is a vertical slot in the housing. What you need to do is get a big flatbade in there and prise sideways to break the seal between the strut and the housing... if you squirt WD40 at the joint you can see it seep down when you prise the slot apart. Do this a few times ansd you will find that the WD40 will start dripping out of the bottom - then you know its all the way through!

Now lower the jack supporting the wheelbearing housing... if you are really really lucky the strut will come free but chances are it won't. What I did next is wedge the base of the bottle jack on top of the wheelbearing housing (block of wood helps) and place the end under the lip on the strut










A few pumps on the jack and the strut comes out easily...

Failing that a big hammer and a length of wood....

Once the bottom of the strut is free, remove the upper nut (remembering to hold the strut - two sets of hands helps here) and lift the strut clear of the car... do NOT remove the spring compressors...










Now remove the spring retaining nut, noting how it all comes apart. You will need the same tools as the top nut.










Lift the spring off and note how long it is... this is the length you will need to compress the new spring to in order to replace the retaining nut and refit the strut in the car. This is where you build up those arm muscles!

Here you can see pre-2002 (black) and post-2002 springs (red) (yes I sprayed it red, but don't bother as you can't really see it and the paint gets hacked up by the spring compressors). See the post-2002 has one less coil although it is not significantly shorter... just compresses more.










Now, compress the new spring keeping the compressors in the same orientation as they were removed from the old spring. This is to make sure the strut will go back in the car OK. Its a little tricky because the new spring has one less coil... some trial and error may be needed

Refit the spring to the strut, tightening the retaining nut and making sure the spindle goes through the plate and is not trapping the plate (its obvious when you look at it). Refit the strut in the car by offering it up and loosely fitting the top nut, positioning the wheelbearing housing and lifting it gently with the jack to push the strut through the housing. The strut has a tab on it that must go through the slot in the housing. Refit the bottom bolt and torque to 110Nm. Now you can tighten the top nut and remove the spring compressors (if you got it just right they will be finger tight now - if not, try raising the jack a little more to compress the spring further).

Drop the jack slowly until the drop link bolt lines up and refit, torquing to 35Nm, then you can drop the jack completely. Refit everything else and you are done.

*Rears:*
The rears are much simpler but still need a fair amount of manual effort...










There is only one bolt to remove using a 21mm socket . Support the trainling arm with a jack and remove the bolt at the lower end of the shock absorber (A). On the passenger side remove the Xenon sensor link (10mm, if fitted) (B)










In the manual it says to fit the special spring compressors now, but we don't have these and there isn't enough room to get the normal strut type compressors in there...

The solution is to drop the trailing arm as far as it will go which will give enough room to get the compressors on. As you can see, you have to experiment to find a location where you can actually turn them as well.










Once compressed about as far as they would go I found pressing down with my foot on the trainling arm allowed it to drop another inch and the spring would come out top first. As before, note how far the spring is compressed and compress the new one the same amount or a touch more.

Refiting is the reverse of removal... but a couple of points.. the top of the spring has a green flash on it, be careful as the spring is almost symmetrical. The bottom of the spring should be up against the side of the tab on the rubber bottom mount. Early cars don't have this tab, so the end of the spring should be at 9-oclock (12-o clock being towards the front of the car).

All of this took me 6 hours today, and I ache all over, especially my right elbow - think I got RSI from all that work with the spring compressors.


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## coTTsie

good post, clear enough for me, i'm after some coilovers, any recommended for TTC!!!!!


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## p1tse

not something i would attempt, but nice write up for future reference for others


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## Chip_iTT

coTTsie said:


> good post, clear enough for me, i'm after some coilovers, any recommended for TTC!!!!!


Fitting coilovers at the frint is essentially the same... just swap them for the strut.

At the rear you obviously dont refit the spring, but remove the top bolt on the shock and fit the coilover in place of the shock.

Otherwise pretty much the same!


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## gt russell

Excelent write up :wink: should be in a how to section so it can easily be found


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## Chip_iTT

just a quick thank you to ctgilles who made this 'how to:' possible by supplying the springs (and spacers) off his doomed TT  - my silver lining to his cloud...


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## John-H

Nice write write up Irving  .

Interesting that you got those spring compressors to fit on the rear with the arm lowered - Are they the Franklin ones? I bought a pair briefly to change the front bushes on my rear trailing arms but took them back because it didn't look like they'd fit. I ended up just lowering the arm on a jack against the spring but of cours I wasn't taking the spring off.


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## Chip_iTT

John-H said:


> Nice write write up Irving  .
> 
> Interesting that you got those spring compressors to fit on the rear with the arm lowered - Are they the Franklin ones? I bought a pair briefly to change the front bushes on my rear trailing arms but took them back because it didn't look like they'd fit. I ended up just lowering the arm on a jack against the spring but of cours I wasn't taking the spring off.


Thank's John, almost to your standard 

The compressors I have are the Laser ones from Halfords, but Draper and Sealey both do virtually identical units










As you can see, the depth of the hooks means you cant squueze down less than 2" or so and for the rears you need to really compress them till the coils touch which would be about 1"

Whats really needed is something like this:










but at Â£317 (yes!) thats just not on!


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## droopsnoot

Thanks for this guide - I have been looking at ways to swap the rear springs since the dealer told me that one of them had a couple of inches missing off the end. They quoted me Â£450 labour to replace the rear springs, which I felt was a little steep. Now I see it involves removing one bolt, I think it's probably more than a little steep.


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## citrix20

Excellent guide.

Hope you took the oppertunity to clean those calipers!


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## scott_t

Excellent guide but any chance of the torque settings for re assembly. Been volunteered to change a snapped spring on me mates mrs car this morning.

Thanks
Scott


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## jono-williams

Hi,
Just wanted say thanks for the great how to, which I used this weekend when I replaced all four springs with the Eibach pro kit. Having had the experience I thought I would pass on a couple extra points, which may be useful for all you other budding mechanics.

1 - The top strut nut was a B****** to get off so I slipped the standard whell brace over the allen key to get more leverage it fits perfectly if you use the laser brake caliper key

2 - I also replaced the strut bearing and bush whilst they were off, parts boght from VAGparts.com

3 - Be cafeful when fitting the bottom shock absorber bolt on the rears, I cross treaded mine, which took a while to sort when crawling around on the floor.

4 - I used the 4 ton bottle jack from halfords to separate the strut from the bearing housing it worked a treat without the need for WD40

5 - A bought a 21mm spark plug socket from Facom man on ebay iy was made by Signet, it was great as I could fit a 22mm ring spanner on it rather than use an adjustable.

Hope this is useful

Thanks again

John


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## YES TT

right iv sorted it out now and it looks well better.
thanks for the guide as it helped alot.

will post up pics soon.


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## bobski

Hi,

Great write-up..... 

Dont need mine done but well presented and you make it easy for fellow TT'ers to follow....

Good job..... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Cheers
Bobski


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## nate42

No need to compress the springs in front!

When the spring is loose you can twist it around the damper, just like a nut to a bolt. It has to be in a right spot to get it over the plate, but you will notice it when you rotate the spring on the plate. Now you got enough room to take the damper and spring (that is wrapped around the damper) out.


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## KentishTT

Damn, where have the pics gone?

I'm planning to do this job at the weekend since most garages are so busy they are not even returrning my calls or replying to emails. What recession eh?

Did anyone save a copy of the thread with the pics they can email to me please?


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## TT51

KentishTT said:


> Damn, where have the pics gone?
> 
> I'm planning to do this job at the weekend since most garages are so busy they are not even returrning my calls or replying to emails. What recession eh?
> 
> Did anyone save a copy of the thread with the pics they can email to me please?


If you change your mind and don't want to get your hands dirty I know a mechanic who will do them very cheap.

He has just fitted a set of coilies to another members car and he is changing mine very soon.

Pm me if you are interested and I'll give you his phone number

Neil


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## John-H

KentishTT said:


> Damn, where have the pics gone?
> 
> I'm planning to do this job at the weekend since most garages are so busy they are not even returrning my calls or replying to emails. What recession eh?
> 
> Did anyone save a copy of the thread with the pics they can email to me please?


I've sent a text to Chip_iTT to tell him his server is down but I think he may be away. If you PM me your email address I may be able to help you.


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## KentishTT

Thanks for all your help John, much appreciated! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## KentishTT

TT51 said:


> KentishTT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, where have the pics gone?
> 
> I'm planning to do this job at the weekend since most garages are so busy they are not even returrning my calls or replying to emails. What recession eh?
> 
> Did anyone save a copy of the thread with the pics they can email to me please?
> 
> 
> 
> If you change your mind and don't want to get your hands dirty I know a mechanic who will do them very cheap.
> 
> He has just fitted a set of coilies to another members car and he is changing mine very soon.
> 
> Pm me if you are interested and I'll give you his phone number
> 
> Neil
Click to expand...

Thanks Neil [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## lazerjules

Did anyone find out if the pics are still available to go with this post.

Thanks


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## John-H

Yes, as soon as Chip_iTT gets his new server working after his last one failed. He's been a bit busy with work and hasn't figured it out yet but he'll have it back on line as soon as he can.


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## mestonian

John-H said:


> Yes, as soon as Chip_iTT gets his new server working after his last one failed. He's been a bit busy with work and hasn't figured it out yet but he'll have it back on line as soon as he can.


Before tomorrow??? that would be helpful!! lol......... i need a guide with pics :?


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## medlen1985

great post just what i needed. i brought all the tools for this today and i couldnt get the strut to move from its housing. now i know if you jack it up on the hub and compress the spring its a bit easier. thanks a lot


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## DDcrash

This is an excellent how to [smiley=thumbsup.gif] there should be a sticky or separate part of the forum for this sort of thing. It is what makes this forum so good.


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## TTQ2K2

DDcrash said:


> This is an excellent how to [smiley=thumbsup.gif] there should be a sticky or separate part of the forum for this sort of thing. It is what makes this forum so good.


It is a great post. I used it, with others, for my suspension build. See fotki album link in my sig block for more.

cheers.


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## Fictorious

medlen1985 said:


> great post just what i needed. i brought all the tools for this today and i couldnt get the strut to move from its housing. now i know if you jack it up on the hub and compress the spring its a bit easier. thanks a lot


WD40 as soon as it's exposed then bottle jack between housing and strut was the easiest way I got mine to go.


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## christurbo

Did the strut slip back into bearing housing easy when replacing? seems like a bugger to get out.

I might be trying this this weekend.


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## Fictorious

christurbo said:


> Did the strut slip back into bearing housing easy when replacing? seems like a bugger to get out.
> 
> I might be trying this this weekend.


I found it easy to get back in on one side, hard on the other.

Just be careful and line it up correctly, I did the top mounts up loosely then used the jack to push the strut back into the housing to help it on its way.


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## christurbo

Thanks, so basically you pressed it back in with the jack


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## Fictorious

Pretty much yeah, it shouldn't be too much of a struggle to get in if aligned correctly anyway.


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## christurbo

Thanks, I dont have a spreader tool so will be trying the bottle jack trick.


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## TTQ2K2

christurbo said:


> Thanks, I dont have a spreader tool so will be trying the bottle jack trick.


see my how to at:

http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/struts/

for alternate way to get front struts out.

cheers.


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## Hj-225

This is a great post, thanks for taking the time to do it.
Do you have any before and after pics to show the drop? 
I have the old springs and want to change them - is it worthwhile guys?

Cheers.


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## christurbo

I think if your running a Pre Facelift TT then its definitely needed - they look like a 4x4!

I dont want a drastic drop, I just want my TT to look normal.

Here is my S Line suspension ready to go on, and my 4x4 in the background!


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## christurbo

What a PITA!!!!

I couldnt get the strut out of the housing even with a bottle jack and wood, it kept slipping off, when it didnt slip off it looked like it was bending the strut plate so stopped! Its booked in for next Saturday for the proper mechs to do their work!

Im going to replace my rear brakes instead

[BTW I am not a numpty, Ive replaced coiovers, suspension, bushes, calipers, brakes, etc, on a whole host of cars including a Honda Civic Type R, Lotus Elise, VX220, Clio Cup track car, etc... and this is a nightmare - bloody VAG cars! :lol:


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## Fictorious

christurbo said:


> What a PITA!!!!
> 
> I couldnt get the strut out of the housing even with a bottle jack and wood, it kept slipping off, when it didnt slip off it looked like it was bending the strut plate so stopped! Its booked in for next Saturday for the proper mechs to do their work!
> 
> Im going to replace my rear brakes instead
> 
> [BTW I am not a numpty, Ive replaced coiovers, suspension, bushes, calipers, brakes, etc, on a whole host of cars including a Honda Civic Type R, Lotus Elise, VX220, Clio Cup track car, etc... and this is a nightmare - bloody VAG cars! :lol:


Did you get the pin part out from the back first? and soak with WD40 the night before


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## TTQ2K2

christurbo said:


> What a PITA!!!!
> 
> I couldnt get the strut out of the housing even with a bottle jack and wood, it kept slipping off, when it didnt slip off it looked like it was bending the strut plate so stopped! Its booked in for next Saturday for the proper mechs to do their work!
> 
> Im going to replace my rear brakes instead
> 
> [BTW I am not a numpty, Ive replaced coiovers, suspension, bushes, calipers, brakes, etc, on a whole host of cars including a Honda Civic Type R, Lotus Elise, VX220, Clio Cup track car, etc... and this is a nightmare - bloody VAG cars! :lol:


Take a look at my "how to" as noted above...pictures and words. very easy to get strut out with home-made tool.
http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/struts/
cheers.


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## christurbo

TTQ2K2 said:


> christurbo said:
> 
> 
> 
> What a PITA!!!!
> 
> I couldnt get the strut out of the housing even with a bottle jack and wood, it kept slipping off, when it didnt slip off it looked like it was bending the strut plate so stopped! Its booked in for next Saturday for the proper mechs to do their work!
> 
> Im going to replace my rear brakes instead
> 
> [BTW I am not a numpty, Ive replaced coiovers, suspension, bushes, calipers, brakes, etc, on a whole host of cars including a Honda Civic Type R, Lotus Elise, VX220, Clio Cup track car, etc... and this is a nightmare - bloody VAG cars! :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Take a look at my "how to" as noted above...pictures and words. very easy to get strut out with home-made tool.
> http://public.fotki.com/TTQ2K2/struts/
> cheers.
Click to expand...

Your guide was great, very very informative. I am half way through the brakes now and glad I didnt proceed with the suspension as I am so tired! haha, its muggy out there.

The assembly took around 5 mins to put back together! Wish it was like that taking it apart! Oh and my impact wrench worked wonders on the bolts, esp the top strut so no need for a deep 21mm socket and 7mm hex key.


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## liverpool1982

Literally just about to do this, can someone tell me why you have to compress the springs before taking the strut off the car? Can u get away without doing this untill off the car? Thanks.


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## christurbo

Good luck let us know how you get on.

You will not have enough room to get the strut out otherwise.


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## tgorman

Big thank you too this guide 
very useful when i was putting my collies on yesterday


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## liverpool1982

All done, bit of a pain but saved a fortune at a garage! Found the back springs dont need compressing! Just get a mate to put some weight on the lower arm and pull it out - easy!!

Put spacers on also, 20mm back 15mm front - looks much better got a bit of grinding on cornering (gets worse when i corner harder and faster) its not the tyres its a noise around the hub. Any help here? Getting it looked at up the garage monday but everything seems tight and no obvious signs of anything touching anywhere.

Apart from that all pleased - pics to follow. 25mm P1 springs 110.00 new from P1 and spacer 105.00 all in with bolts. Getting wheel alignment done in the week when it all settles.


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## christurbo

It could be your bearings, I would imagine spacers would put extra wear on them due to the increased pressure from leverage.

Where did you get your spacers? Link me?


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## liverpool1982

Ok to save u all searching, which took me an age the best way to lower your car on a budget is these:

http://www.pi-suspension.co.uk/pi-sprin ... 253111.htm

Only 25mm so no need for tie bars and at £110.99 u cant go wrong! Easy to do yourself following this post!

If you want spacers the answer is these:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

Just phone the company ( number in advert ) and get 20mm back and 15mm front. £105.00 all in. For the back only you MAY need shorter bolts to bolt your wheels onto the spacers or just cut a couple of mm of yours, depends on what bolts/wheels you have on now. Mine where 2mm too long you need 22mm of thread to bolt on the rear wheels no more or the will bottom out. You can just order these bolts with the spacers for an extra £17 (10 bolts for rears).

So there you have it for about £216 a massive difference to your car. You will need to get the alignment done also at a local garage after changing the springs around £30 ish.

Pics will be up soon!


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## Kotzi

A little correction would be welcome for the xenon sensor link location in the instruction. I was looking it in the passenger side and it was not there. After changing passenger side spring I remembered that you guys in UK have steering wheel on the right side and of course I have in the left side. So Xenon sensor link is on the left side of the car. Which in my case is driver side, not passenger side. :lol:

EDIT: Sides fixed.


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## John-H

Kotzi said:


> A little correction would be welcome for the xenon sensor link location in the instruction. I was looking it in the passenger side and it was not there. After changing passenger side spring I figured out that you guys in UK have steering wheel on the left side and of course I have in the right side. So Xenon sensor link is on the left side of the car. Which in my case is driver side, not passenger side. :lol:


I thought you guys had the steering wheel on the left?  - Don't call me pickey but it must be real difficult reaching over to steer :wink:


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## warrenstuart

I used this post on Sunday to replace my n/s front shock absorber and it is spot-on  
I'm only a very average DIYer and had to purchase a 21mm deep offset ring spanner (£14 from local engineers merchant), bottle jack (£16 from Screwfix) and spring compressors (£14 from Screwfix) to do the job but overall still a big saving on what Audi wanted in labour charges!!
The job took me approx 3hrs and was much easier than i thought it would be. I really wouldn't be phased at all about doing this job again or fitting lowering springs etc.

I was a bit apprehensive at first but with helpful topics like this get yer tools out and have a go cos it's very satisfying when you've done a job yourself and saved £££££s too


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## John-H

Excellent! That's what the forum is all about


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## 4ndrew

I've never done a job like this before, but I'm the kinda person that's willing to give a stab at anything if there's a good guide about it such as this one. the only thing is, I have none of the tools needed so I'd have quite a cost in tools before I even attempt it. My question is, how much would it cost to get this done at a garage? Is it worth doing it myself. I wouldn't mind having the tools for future so its not all bad ;-)


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## warrenstuart

4ndrew said:


> I've never done a job like this before, but I'm the kinda person that's willing to give a stab at anything if there's a good guide about it such as this one. the only thing is, I have none of the tools needed so I'd have quite a cost in tools before I even attempt it. My question is, how much would it cost to get this done at a garage? Is it worth doing it myself. I wouldn't mind having the tools for future so its not all bad ;-)


If you have none of the tools at all then i guess it's quite a costly exercise but if you're just missing a coulpe of things then buy them and have a go.
As you've said right at the end of the post once you've got them they're there for future use, that's the way i see it.


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## Gone

Quick q about the back end - in Peter-SS's thread about the tie bar end bushes the advice he has is to torque the tie bars retaining bolts to 70 Nm and then drop the car to the ground before adding the 1/4 turn. I thought there was a similar procedure for the shock bottom bolts. Am I right, or just confused?


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## John-H

All the bonded rubber bushings subject to tortion in service should be tightened with the car standing on its wheels so no tortion bias is built in, otherwise service life will be reduced. The shock absorber lower bold should be set to 110Nm with no angle tightening spec.


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## xiphon

I'm attempting this tomorrow whatever the weather 

Thanks for the guide(s) a couple of you have written!


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## eddiep

Front and rear suspension replacement on 2002 TT Quattro. I replaced the factory struts and springs for a Bilstein pss9 Coilover set. I followed TT2QK2's post on replacing his front suspension and springs. Here are some tips and comments that I would add.

Overall tips:

1)	Get a lift. Some of the maneuvers are a lot easier with a lift. Although possible with jack stands. I found the lift to be a time saver and less fustrating.
2)	Get a buddy. Removing the wheel bearing housing off the strut is difficult with even two people.
3)	Give yourself 4 hours per wheel and you won't be disappointed. I have never worked on cars before and took my time doing it.
4)	Get a Bentley Manual 
5)	Follow TT2QK2's post on the subject, it is excellent.

Front suspension:

1)	Order a kit from ECS to get a new strut bearing, deep-groove thrust ball bearing, nut and spring plate (not needed for my coilover). That way you can avoid having to disassemble the suspension strut assembly.
2)	When assembling the coilover, it is very difficult getting the nut (#4 on Bentley diagram A40-0302) to screw down to 44 ft-lbs on the end of my coilover. That's because of the nature of the strut bearing. I was using a 7mm Hex key and a special tool to try to do this by hand. I just did my best. Your hex key will need to be sawed down to 35 mm on the short end or else it will be too long to go through your 3186 tool. Some people use air tools. But you will start to spin the top half of the strut. If you have a special pass through ratchet (expensive) and a good table vise, it may work better. An oxygen sensor socket (22mm) is not deep enough and is actually too large for the nut. 
3)	NOT NECESSARY to remove the drive axle from the transmission flange. In fact my Audi mechanic and another mechanic didn't recommend that I do that move (I am a novice). If you don't do this move, you will need to compress the coil spring. Use some from Autozone or O'reilly but make sure it's the ones that TT2QK2 uses on his post or at least close to it. 
4)	To compress the coil just use transmission jack or regular jack to lift the wheel housing to at least 6 inches. I was only be able to get to place 2 adjacent turns of the coil to compress and you can't use a wrench to tighten due to space. Finger tight is sufficient. Pipe spacer technique from TT2QK2 looks like an alternative. Also placing coil compressors first on the uncompressed spring prior to raising the wheel bearing housing may work, too. It just didn't with my coil compressors.
5)	Loosen the hex nut for upper strut mount using the 3186 tool and the hex key. This will allow you to move the entire strut and wiggle it from the wheel bearing housing. Better to "spin" strut out of wheel bearing housing than to pull it loose. That way you can avoid canting.
6)	GET A SPREADER TOOL. It will save you time and is compact so it won't get in the way of things.
7)	Removal of the lower strut from the wheel bearing housing is the hardest part. Spray WD40 to loosen. Keep spreader socket in at all times to keep the wheel bearing housing open. I could not remove the lower strut mount this way. I could not pull the housing low enough to do this. I needed an extra 5mm or so. To accomplish this I had to first remove the brake caliper by removing two bolts. Make sure you do not stretch the brake line. Attach the brake calipers to the subframe or rear of the control arm. I also had to remove the rotor (just one screw). Next, disconnect the control arm from the wheel bearing housing (3 nuts) and place the control arm in front of the wheel bearing housing. These extra moves were needed to give us the room and extra play to remove the lower strut mount. Now you can remove the upper strut mount.
8)	To reinstall do the following: place wheel bearing housing back on the control arm first (do not tighten bolts), Next, place upper strut nut on but don't tighten to torque. 
9) Next, put the lower strut mount into wheel bearing housing. Make sure that the spreader tool does not prevent the flange from your strut from seating all the way down. 
10) Torque down the upper strut mount.
11) Place the rotor (tighten screw) and the calipers (torque to spec)
12) Torque the control arm nuts.
13) Put back coupling rod to the new strut.
14) Raise the wheel bearing housing to ride height then tighten the coupling rod then the wheel bearing housing nut to torque spec.
15) The driver's side was a bit harder because the drive axle is shorter. Thus there is less "play" around the wheel bearing housing. Watch out for the brake pad sensor wire and the brake line.

Rear suspension

1)	I did the right rear with jacks and the left rear with a lift. The right took 4 hours. The left took 1.5 hours.
2)	If you are replacing the coil spring, I found it hard to lower the trailing arm low enough to "pop" out the spring. This was even with the help of spring compressors. We ended up removing the lower control arm to accomplish this. We had to replace the lower control arm anyway to place an adjustable control arm. If you are lowering your ride to any significant degree, you will have some negative camber that needs to be adjusted. So I chose the adjustable lower control arm route (probably the most expensive). But it looks pretty cool!
3)	Removal of the coupling rod upper link to sway bar made it easier to place the new strut on. Place the upper coupling link to sway bar after you have mounted the lower shock mounting bolt. There is much more "play" at that upper link.
4)	If you remove the driver's side lower control arm, you will need to remove the xenon headlight level sensor. If you are replacing the lower control arm, you will need to jerry rig some device to hold the sensor in the same position it was on the OEM control arm. I decided to use 2 old sway bar bushings secured on either side of the U-bracket. I used plastic ties around the bushings. I wanted to limit the noise and the weight of any added contraption. Hope it works.


----------



## wilson

Chip_iTT said:


> Refiting is the reverse of removal... but a couple of points.. the top of the spring has a green flash on it, be careful as the spring is almost symmetrical. The bottom of the spring should be up against the side of the tab on the rubber bottom mount. Early cars don't have this tab, so the end of the spring should be at 9-oclock (12-o clock being towards the front of the car).
> 
> All of this took me 6 hours today, and I ache all over, especially my right elbow - think I got RSI from all that work with the spring compressors.


Excellent write up, I followed this the other night but have one question from the above quote....

Where the bottom of the spring should be at 9 o'clock, on the drivers side this means the bottom of the spring will end on the inside of the car, but on the passenger side it means it will be on the outside, I assume they should be both inside or both outside depending what side you were referring to, or should they both be at 9 o'clock?

Thanks again


----------



## John-H

The workshop manual shows the LHS arm with the lower spring end being outermost i.e. 9 o'clock when looking from above with 12 o'clock being forward. The RHS is not mentioned, so I presume that's the same 9 o'clock but inside as the springs are not handed. Later cars have an end stop on the bump stop but early ones don't. I can't think of a good reason for it to matter that much apart from being seated properly and not presenting a leading trap for stones to wedge in the bottom of the spring.


----------



## wilson

John-H said:


> The workshop manual shows the LHS arm with the lower spring end being outermost i.e. 9 o'clock when looking from above with 12 o'clock being forward. The RHS is not mentioned, so I presume that's the same 9 o'clock but inside as the springs are not handed. Later cars have an end stop on the bump stop but early ones don't. I can't think of a good reason for it to matter that much apart from being seated properly and not presenting a leading trap for stones to wedge in the bottom of the spring.


Mines a 2000 and hasn't got a tab, I'm sure most/all cars I've ever replaced before have got tabs, so I've never before considered where the spring ended, and wouldn't have if I hadn't read this.

My main reason for asking is because my car appears to be sitting slightly higher one side, but I will start a new topic on this later on.


----------



## karlchadw

Hi all,
Has anyone got the pics for the Job?
Cheers


----------



## FRAX

Just done my ones and have some pictures but not a lot, follow this link.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=625121


----------



## warrenstuart

karlchadw said:


> Hi all,
> Has anyone got the pics for the Job?
> Cheers


I saved a copy locally so have the pics. If you still need it PM me with your e-mail address and i'll send you a copy 

Warren.


----------



## danny_t65

warrenstuart said:


> karlchadw said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> Has anyone got the pics for the Job?
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> I saved a copy locally so have the pics. If you still need it PM me with your e-mail address and i'll send you a copy
> 
> Warren.
Click to expand...

Hi Warren,

If i PM you would it be possible to get a copy with pictures if you still have them?

Thanks

Danny


----------



## warrenstuart

Hi Danny

Yes of course, PM me your e-mail address and i'll send it over to you.

Warren.


----------



## warrenstuart

The original photos to this useful topic are now missing and as i have a copy stored locally on my PC i've been asked several times to email it to various people wanting to have a go at this job, so with this in mind i've copied and re-posted the original info with the photos added. I hope the original poster doesn't mind but this is very useful for us "Sunday mechanics".
Original post starts below. Any questions or if anyone wants the original emailed to them just ask 

Warren.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A quick how to, unfortunately I didnt take as many pics as I would have liked.. I just replaced my off-road springs with some relatively new facelift springs, but the same procedure applies for more upmarket products!

This isn't a difficult job, but involves some fairly strenuous spanner work as well as crouching down, so not for the congenitally unfit!

*What you need:*
21mm deep dish ring spanner or 21mm deep socket with flats on the outside + adjustable spanner, long 7mm Allen key with handle (Laser part, Â£3.99 from Halfords), 10, 18, 21mm sockets, 18mm ring spanner, T20 torx bit, torque wrench, spring compressors (again Laser from Halfords, Â£18 approx), big flat blade screwdriver, wd40, bottle jack.

Oh err... springs

*Fronts:*
Jack her up and support safely on axlestands (note my nice shiney new ones with rubber blocks on the top). I have decided the safest and quickest way to jack her up is a single central trolley jack using a 2ft length of 4" x 3" to spread the load across the rear of the front subframe, then lower back onto axle stands under the front lifting points, keeping the jack lightly loaded.










Next, remove road wheels and identify the points to undo... in this order: on both sides, locking bolt and nut in the wheel bearing housing across the bottom of the strut (A, 18mm socket and ring), drop link nut at top rear of strut (B, 18mm), clamp for brake lines in middle rear of strut (C, 10mm), passenger side only: clamp for brakepad warning cable on side of strut (20mm Torx), Xenon leveling sensor on wishbone (10mm, if fitted).










Now, with the bottle jack, raise the wishbone about 4-6" to compress the spring and fit the spring compressors.










There is precious little room and I found the easiest way to fit them was with the nut at the top... and just tighten finger tight. This is important, if you don't do this the strut will be too long to come out of the wheel bearing housing. They don't need to be done up more than finger tight as they are just to retain the loading once the housing is dropped. Keep it raised for now...










Now it is time to undo the top nut, loosen it a few turns but do not remove yet...


















Its a stiffnut so is tight all the way up. Ideally you should replace it... but some loctite on refitting will suffice...

Now comes the fun and games! Firstly WD40 the joint between the strut and the wheelbearing housing. If you feel round the back there is a vertical slot in the housing. What you need to do is get a big flatbade in there and prise sideways to break the seal between the strut and the housing... if you squirt WD40 at the joint you can see it seep down when you prise the slot apart. Do this a few times ansd you will find that the WD40 will start dripping out of the bottom - then you know its all the way through!

Now lower the jack supporting the wheelbearing housing... if you are really really lucky the strut will come free but chances are it won't. What I did next is wedge the base of the bottle jack on top of the wheelbearing housing (block of wood helps) and place the end under the lip on the strut










A few pumps on the jack and the strut comes out easily...

Failing that a big hammer and a length of wood....

Once the bottom of the strut is free, remove the upper nut (remembering to hold the strut - two sets of hands helps here) and lift the strut clear of the car... do NOT remove the spring compressors...










Now remove the spring retaining nut, noting how it all comes apart. You will need the same tools as the top nut.










Lift the spring off and note how long it is... this is the length you will need to compress the new spring to in order to replace the retaining nut and refit the strut in the car. This is where you build up those arm muscles!

Here you can see pre-2002 (black) and post-2002 springs (red) (yes I sprayed it red, but don't bother as you can't really see it and the paint gets hacked up by the spring compressors). See the post-2002 has one less coil although it is not significantly shorter... just compresses more.










Now, compress the new spring keeping the compressors in the same orientation as they were removed from the old spring. This is to make sure the strut will go back in the car OK. Its a little tricky because the new spring has one less coil... some trial and error may be needed

Refit the spring to the strut, tightening the retaining nut and making sure the spindle goes through the plate and is not trapping the plate (its obvious when you look at it). Refit the strut in the car by offering it up and loosely fitting the top nut, positioning the wheelbearing housing and lifting it gently with the jack to push the strut through the housing. The strut has a tab on it that must go through the slot in the housing. Refit the bottom bolt and torque to 110Nm. Now you can tighten the top nut and remove the spring compressors (if you got it just right they will be finger tight now - if not, try raising the jack a little more to compress the spring further).

Drop the jack slowly until the drop link bolt lines up and refit, torquing to 35Nm, then you can drop the jack completely. Refit everything else and you are done.

*Rears:*
The rears are much simpler but still need a fair amount of manual effort...










There is only one bolt to remove using a 21mm socket . Support the trainling arm with a jack and remove the bolt at the lower end of the shock absorber (A). On the passenger side remove the Xenon sensor link (10mm, if fitted) (B)










In the manual it says to fit the special spring compressors now, but we don't have these and there isn't enough room to get the normal strut type compressors in there...

The solution is to drop the trailing arm as far as it will go which will give enough room to get the compressors on. As you can see, you have to experiment to find a location where you can actually turn them as well.










Once compressed about as far as they would go I found pressing down with my foot on the trainling arm allowed it to drop another inch and the spring would come out top first. As before, note how far the spring is compressed and compress the new one the same amount or a touch more.

Refiting is the reverse of removal... but a couple of points.. the top of the spring has a green flash on it, be careful as the spring is almost symmetrical. The bottom of the spring should be up against the side of the tab on the rubber bottom mount. Early cars don't have this tab, so the end of the spring should be at 9-oclock (12-o clock being towards the front of the car).

All of this took me 6 hours today, and I ache all over, especially my right elbow - think I got RSI from all that work with the spring compressors.


----------



## John-H

That's really good Warren. Chip_iTT sent me all his pictures and it's on my to do list to put them back on - trouble is finding everything as there's a shed load of files.


----------



## warrenstuart

John-H said:


> That's really good Warren. Chip_iTT sent me all his pictures and it's on my to do list to put them back on - trouble is finding everything as there's a shed load of files.


No probs John, it just seemed the sensible thing to do... took a while though :-|

Warren.


----------



## MCIP

Just replaced my rear broken spring (fitted the pair just in case) and all Thanks to Chip_iTT "How too", Took me about 3 hours and have never done any springs before so an excellent "how too" I used sealey spring compressors, I will put some pics in my garage Thanks again Chip_iTT.


----------



## teymur80g

Hello everyone. New to the forum but an old time TT fanatic. lol. I have a stupid question, but can not seem to find an answer on the forum. i am in the process of installing fk rear springs and shocks. does the spring plate from the stock set up go on top of the adjustable portion of the spring? i tried to attach the pic, but it too big. Thanks for the help in advance.


----------



## miTTzee

HideHi - Sorry to resurrect this topic again, just like to say great write up Warren 8) but
wonder if you could answer a couple of questions for me. Going to try and change the rear springs soon so,

1. Do you need a new bolt for the bottom of the shock absorber.

2. How would one be able to tell which is the top or bottom of the spring.

3. Can the spring be fitted incorrectly i.e. upside down.

4. Would you have to change the rubber mounts at the top and bottom ( the ones that sit on the frame or body work). Silly question I know, but don't have much of an idea really. 

5. Is the correct torque setting 120Nm for the bolt at the shock absorber.

6. If I have to buy a new bolt for the shock absorber, would you have an idea, or could point me in the right direction to buy one.

I gather you are a busy fella, but if you do happen to get this post and can answer a few questions for me, then would be most grateful. 

Thanks - miTTzee :wink:


----------



## outdoor stevie

Hey Teymur, when you say the adjustable portion of the spring do you mean a threaded alloy adjuster that sits on top of the spring, if so then this normally goes directly against the bodywork, did they not come with instructions?

Hey Mittzee
1. Would be nice especially as the old one will be well rusted and crappy(TPS have them)
2. If there is a part number on them then you should be able to read the number when installed without doing a handstand!
3. Yes
4. Rears not essential depends on the condition.
5. Don't know.
6. TPS a few quid for bolts for the base of the front shock and the base of the rear shock.
Did the units not come with instruction for fitting them?

Busy weekend for you two then!

Stevie


----------



## Jez xbx

Theoretically oem springs have a green paint splodge at the top,
If the ones coming off are original you might be able to compare them to the new ones?
The difference is very subtle but there is a difference!


----------



## miTTzee

Hideo Stevie - thanks for your quick reply, much appreciated. 8)

All copied OK - just one quick query. Have ordered some springs with
the 5 violet paint marks on them. I presume that the paint mark would
be the bottom of the spring, therefore fitted that way. i.e paint mark
nearest the ground. Hope that makes sense. :lol:

Reading through this long post, some say that these rear springs can
be fitted without the spring compressor. Do you thin this is possible
or should I buy a set.

Thanks again for your help.
miTTzee :wink:


----------



## outdoor stevie

It is certainly possible to fit lowered springs on the rear without a compressor but couldn't comment on normal Audi ones, however if the bottom bolt is off the shock then the whole hub assembly will drop or tilt down opening up the gap for the spring to go on, if you get someone to use their foot and a bit of weight on the hub to keep it down it will be easier to fit the spring in the gap but again don't know if the gap will be big enough for audi ones, you may need to use a bit of brute force to get the sucker into position. If you have the kit then it's easier to get both sides up in the air to keep the anti roll bar level which makes the tilting down more uniform on both sides and don't forget to undo the headlight level sensor on the tie bar ok.

Stevie


----------



## 3TT3

miTTzee said:


> HideHi - Sorry to resurrect this topic again, just like to say great write up Warren 8) but
> wonder if you could answer a couple of questions for me. Going to try and change the rear springs soon so,
> 
> 1. Do you need a new bolt for the bottom of the shock absorber.
> 
> 2. How would one be able to tell which is the top or bottom of the spring.
> 
> 3. Can the spring be fitted incorrectly i.e. upside down.
> 
> 4. Would you have to change the rubber mounts at the top and bottom ( the ones that sit on the frame or body work). Silly question I know, but don't have much of an idea really.
> 
> 5. Is the correct torque setting 120Nm for the bolt at the shock absorber.
> 
> 6. If I have to buy a new bolt for the shock absorber, would you have an idea, or could point me in the right direction to buy one.
> 
> I gather you are a busy fella, but if you do happen to get this post and can answer a few questions for me, then would be most grateful.
> 
> Thanks - miTTzee :wink:


You already had the springs done recently yeh?

and just want to fit different ones?

In theory ,if the job was done properly first time you shouldnt need anything except the new/different springs and a spring compressor.
Jack up one side, compress the spring, take it out , compress new spring and insert it the up/down orientation should be visible from the old spring.
Replacing rear springs the ends of the coils should be visible but not directly facing you.
Lemme see if I can find the link  back in a bit.
edit
something like this


----------



## warrenstuart

miTTzee said:


> HideHi - Sorry to resurrect this topic again, just like to say great write up Warren 8) but
> wonder if you could answer a couple of questions for me. Going to try and change the rear springs soon so,
> 
> 1. Do you need a new bolt for the bottom of the shock absorber.
> *I didn't use a new one on either side*
> 
> 2. How would one be able to tell which is the top or bottom of the spring.
> *There should be a paint mark on the top but compare old to new and you will soon see*
> 
> 3. Can the spring be fitted incorrectly i.e. upside down.
> *Yes*
> 
> 4. Would you have to change the rubber mounts at the top and bottom ( the ones that sit on the frame or body work). Silly question I know, but don't have much of an idea really.
> *Good time to do it if they look tired*
> 
> 5. Is the correct torque setting 120Nm for the bolt at the shock absorber.
> *Errm can't remember but i do have the info, i know you have to put the weight of the car back on the wheels before final tightening*
> 
> 6. If I have to buy a new bolt for the shock absorber, would you have an idea, or could point me in the right direction to buy one.
> *Audi parts dept or TPS*
> 
> I gather you are a busy fella, but if you do happen to get this post and can answer a few questions for me, then would be most grateful.
> 
> Thanks - miTTzee :wink:


Sorry only just seen this but at least you've got most of the answers now, just proves how good this forum is 

I've stuck my 2p worth in under your questions anyway but if you need anything more i will need to look it up after the weekend i'm afraid.

Warren.


----------



## miTTzee

HideHo again - many thanks warren & 3TT for your help, all becomes
clear now. Just hope I can get the springs on OK. The photo 3TT saves
a thousand words. 8)

As you might know, broke a spring a couple of weeks back  so in my
wisdom, ordered what I thought and told were the right springs. But after they
were fitted by my Indie, the stance looked horrible. 



So have managed to get an almost new set of the original springs that
had been taken of the car.  Will have a look and see what the stance 
looks like when the springs arrive and I manage to fit them.

In the meantime will hunt around for some tools for the job, but again,
can't say enough how great this forum is for all the members and yourselves
help for very good DIYer's.

Best wishes and have good weekend.

MiTTzee :wink:


----------



## westo3

Been trying to find this post for ages as I am about to change the top front bushes. Great pics and info.


----------



## 3TT3

One good thing about coilovers, you can replace the upper mounts just by dailing the tension out of the springs (on car)

Forgot to say great how to with pics, Warren, probly use it again sometime!


----------



## phil5556

Can you do the rears without spring compressors or a definite no?

Was just about to have a go until I read that they need compressing to get them in/out.


----------



## John-H

You can certainly remove Koni coilover rear springs without compressors. You just un-hitch the shocks and headlight level sensor the trailing arms can be pushed down to have the springs go slack so they can be pulled out. You need to have both wheels off the ground if you remove the top shock bolt (easier) as the ARB will fight with you. The lower shock bolt disconnects the ARB but it's tighter with more on it and more likely to seize.

The standard springs extend longer so you may need to clamp them to prevent them slipping out with force. Normal spring compressors don't fit.


----------



## Jez xbx

phil5556 said:


> Can you do the rears without spring compressors or a definite no?
> 
> Was just about to have a go until I read that they need compressing to get them in/out.


Depends on where you're starting and ending spring wise
I was going from 40mm lowering to preface lift and needed compressors as replacements were longer


----------



## 3TT3

A little more on this. mainly about the spreader tool commonly known as vag 3424,other companies do them,
My suspension was changed to coilovers (not by me as I got an extra 1 years guarantee if the change was done by pro's)

Im now in the process of fitting H+R -25 mm springs and koni str.t front struts/shock absorbers .
I started on the front d/s . its an education :lol: ,

1. The original audi shocks have a locking tab that slips down into the gap of the wheel hub strut holder .
There is also a tab on this that prevents the gap closing excessively 
Measured with a caliper this is 5.3 mm wide.

2.the coilovers had the same locking tab ,but no extra tab on this to prevent the gap getting below 5mm.
Bolted up the gap was under 5mm.
Removing the bolt.the coilover struts just pop out and the gap opened to maybe 5.3 mm .

Cool I thought, prior to measuring all this .. the new struts will just pop in.Not a prayer!
The strut holder had been tightened to below standard diameter for near 3 years and the konis are just a tiny bit wider than normal :lol:

3. The konis have a gap limiting tab of 5.7 mm thickness (measured).
The struts themselves are wider in diameter than the originals (thick paint  ) but are much closer to correct than the coilover struts.

Either way inserting new ones was a pia.

The 3424 tool or equivalent is 5.5mm on the narrow side and 8mm on the wide side.
8mm is just enough to get the konis in, with a jack ,wd 40/gt 85 and tapping the wheelhub holder with a heavy mallet.
The konis also have a lip on circumference of the strut to show when its fully seated.

Getting the initial start is the hard part .
Once I got the gap up to 5.5+.. on d/s I eventually found the ideal tool.

Heres the good bit

Its a 1/4 in socket driver extension bit.. should be just under 6mm on the narrow part of the "square" but widens out to 8mm when you turn it thru 45 degress, the corners of the square, not 90 degrees as on the vag tool.

So progression from standard (audi) to very narrow (coilovers) to koni ,just marginally wider than audi oem.

Also koni upper part of locking tab has to be angle ground just like bilsteins for full seating and keeping the tab.
Ill post some piccies tomorrow.

A pic.. the black stuff is metal paint for the angle ground bare metal.


----------



## 3TT3

V important thing''Ill know the next time if ever  "
You need to jam your tool into the gap , just underneath the tightening bolt lugs and angle it upward at about 30 degrees.

Hmm that sounds wrong in so many ways :lol: 
But really that seems the most effective, straight in, or using the tool up high is nowhere near as good<I found.
Maybe audi/vag sensei mechanics pass this info on as standard , but its another one of those 4 hr "first time"jobs that might be done in an hour the next time.


----------



## Kang

It was a proper battle and took five hours but I'm proud to say that I have managed to fit one lowering spring to my TT and It was all thanks to this guide. I did the near side front and I'm fairly sure I could do the off side in half the time now that I have all the bits and know what I'm doing. Nice one.


----------



## scw02102

Great guide, unfortunately I couldn't do my rear springs.
I managed to get the broken spring out using the above steps but my spring compressors would work with the rear fat short style spring.

As the spring gets wider in the middle the compressor hocks were not long enough to grip the top and bottom of the spring as the middle is wider and pushes its out. Looks like I need different compressors or just send to the garage with the proper tools!

Only one 21mm bolt so overall would have been an easy job if the compressors fitted the silly shaped spring. Fronts would work as the coil is parallel all the way down.


----------



## John-H

I've taken standard springs off. You need to undo both shocks and headlight level sensor, then you can push the arm down far enough to almost disengage the spring. Your standard spring compressors will engage enough to compress it that little further and/or with a scissor jack between arm and body to push down or a length of timber to lever the arm down further you can get the spring out.


----------



## MCIP

Fitted a new set of bilstien b3 rear springs yesterday but could not remove the bottom bump stops from the springs as they ware seized on, think they were the original springs (67k on the clock) 
Had to order new ones from stealers costing 58 notes because they split whilst trying to get them off :-x 
So take note as could happen to yours.


----------



## Hacksawcats

Hi I'm changing the rear springs on my 06TT Quattro Roadster. In the Haynes manual it states that I have to disconect the rear drive shaft on the final drive! There is no mention of this in this "How To" . The question is do I have to, or is this guide correct?

Many thanks for any help.

Regards


----------



## John-H

No, you don't need to remove drive shafts. The difficulty is compressing the spring ache dropping the arm low enough.


----------



## Hacksawcats

OK, Many thanks for clarification. I think I can cope with the trailing arm problem by just standing on it?Am I also right in thinking I dont need aspring compressor either?

Many thanks for you reply


----------



## John-H

With coil-over springs on adjusters you could but the standard springs extend to a greater length so it will help to clamp them whilst compressed before you drop the arm so you can get them out.

The new standard replacements will need compressing to get them in too. Standard compressors have difficulty with the spring bulge and the arm getting in the way of the screws. I seem to remember it was a struggle but my old Sykes-Picovant compressors engaged on enough of the spring to just about manage. You might be best to make some C hooks or two thick plates that can go through the coil and be clamped from either side far enough away.


----------



## Hacksawcats

OK, Many thanks for your reply, I'll let you know how I get on (as soon as the weather improves!!)


----------



## cb550

Just replaced both front coil springs working from the guide. Pretty much spot on I'd say. Challenge on both sides was getting the bolt securing the strut to the hub to shift. Looked like the suspension had never been touched with audi struts and pink/brown spot painted springs.

Plenty of penetrating oil and copper mallet on the bolt ends eventually released them, coming out easily after that.


----------



## John-H

Well done  Something I've had to do a few times more than I'd have expected.


----------



## cb550

Thanks. Ride's actually improved a little, although replaced them after garage service (Audi indi) reported coil spring snapped, top of spring/last coil which I found it was'nt. (plastic coating split which could be argued looked like a cracked section)


----------



## westo3

I need to replace the top bushes on the front suspension can anyone tell me how far through the procedure demonstrated would I need to go to do this. I am assuming I would not have to go as far as taking the spring off?


----------



## davebowk

westo3 said:


> I need to replace the top bushes on the front suspension can anyone tell me how far through the procedure demonstrated would I need to go to do this. I am assuming I would not have to go as far as taking the spring off?


The easy way but you will need spring compressors. I used this method a couple of weeks back


----------



## John-H

If you have coilovers you can lower the bottom spring platform to decompress the spring too and lower the strut out of the turret.

Regardless there's a top nut for the big cupped retaining washer you can take off without releasing the spring -
the strut can fall from the turret then as an assembly, and a second nut holding the rubber bush and top spring retainer - that one is holding back the spring tension.


----------



## westo3

Cheers Dave Good video. Many thanks


----------



## Hacksawcats

Did anyone manage to torque the top mount nuts when they changed the rubber mounts? And if so how did you manage to do it? Many thanks


----------



## John-H

Hacksawcats said:


> Did anyone manage to torque the top mount nuts when they changed the rubber mounts? And if so how did you manage to do it? Many thanks


The standard shocks have a hex key female socket end to hold the piston whilst tightening the big inner nut clamping the rubber mount to the piston. Some adjustable shocks (e.g. Koni) have a small machined male hex around the adjuster on the piston to do the same. The outer big nut clamping the big dished washer is not usually an issue once the inner nut is clamping.

Both counter holds have the difficulty that a standard 1/2" drive socket on a torque wrench holding the large nut obscures the smaller counter hold hex.

Swap them round. Use the torque wrench on the counter hold in reverse direction and a large deep ring spanner or deep spark plug shocked with hex top flats with another spanner on the big nut. The spark plug socket may need the rubber inset removing to allow a 1/4" socket, extension and 1/4"-1/2" adapter for the torque wrench to piston male hex (e.g. Koni) but a long enough hex key (standard piston) on the torque wrench will probably go through the rubber.

You can get hollow drive sockets/driver sets to get round the problem in a similar way.

You can hold the piston below but without adequate Mole wrench jaw protection you risk damaging the polished piston shaft (so not recommended).

Garages tend to use an air gun against the inertia of the piston and whilst it might be possible the gun might have a torque slip setting I think most just guess.


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## Hacksawcats

OK, So am I just worrying about nothing? Should I just tighten them with an impact wrench and call it a day?


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## Hacksawcats

Do you think this would do the trick:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-Oxygen-S ... Swutpdra4-


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## davebowk

Hacksawcats said:


> OK, So am I just worrying about nothing? Should I just tighten them with an impact wrench and call it a day?


Thats all i did. But i know my impact wrench will do about 80nm on setting 2 so didn't go mad with it.


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## Hacksawcats

OK, many thanks for all the replies. I've bought the oxygen sensor socket, so I'll see how I get on.

Just another thing while I'm in the "Springs" topic:: I've fitted 2 new rear springs but there squeaking! Have I done something wrong? It seemed like a fairly straight forward job to me!


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## John-H

Springs don't usually squeak. Are you sure it's not a creak and it's the ARB?


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## Hacksawcats

Wow! that was a quick reply! 

Sorry my bad "creak" , not sure about the ARB but it seems too coincidental that I've got a creak straight after fitting two new springs?


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## Spliffy

creak sounds like it could be bush related. Did you do the final tighten of the bottom shock / droplink bolt with the weight in the wheel ?

Nick


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## Hacksawcats

Mmm, not sure now, I'll check tomorrow. Thanks


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## davebowk

I didn't know about tightening the shocks on the ground when i fitted mine and i also got a squeak/creak from the shock bushes.

I reached under with my impact gun, loosened and whacked em backup again.


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## Hacksawcats

Thanks again, I'll give it a go tomorrow, the cars stored at my sons!


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## John-H

I always avoided that issue by undoing the top shock bolt to allow the arm to drop.


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## Hacksawcats

John-H said:


> I always avoided that issue by undoing the top shock bolt to allow the arm to drop.


I'll remember for next time


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## Hacksawcats

davebowk said:


> I didn't know about tightening the shocks on the ground when i fitted mine and i also got a squeak/creak from the shock bushes.
> 
> I reached under with my impact gun, loosened and whacked em backup again.


Sorry to be so long getting back, been doing other things.
Did that, same S**t,! Lubed everything I could find, still the same. I've not driven the car since putting the springs on, would that make a difference? do they need "bedding in"? Or is it time to start checking ARB? When I'm checking thr ARB, what am I checking/looking for please?


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## davebowk

I doubt it's the springs, could be ARB bushes need greasing or the camber arm bushes and rose joints are a bit dry and possibly tight at the hub end.


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## Hacksawcats

davebowk said:


> I doubt it's the springs, could be ARB bushes need greasing or the camber arm bushes and rose joints are a bit dry and possibly tight at the hub end.


OK, Many thanks, I'll start checking them all!


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## Hacksawcats

Well, I guess the lube kicked in, no more creaks/squeeks!!


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