# Dash warning light ESP,ABS ?????????



## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Hi
My QS has been sitting in the garage for about 3 months but today since the weather was better I decided to take it out for a run.
Left the house and drove for about 3 miles and stopped to re-fuel.
When I started the TT again this light came on in the dash and stayed on.

Drove for about 35 miles and then stopped for a while then set of again for home - light stayed on.
Got home and plugged it into the Laptop and did a scan for any faults and this came up.


Can anyone help as to what the problem is or what I should look at.
I have had a read and found some info and it looks like I may need a sensor 1J0907597B or two. [smiley=book2.gif]


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Don't forget to set your clock.

G201 (Primary) and G214 (secondary) are the two transducers screwed in underneath the Brake Master Cylinder.
They report the pressure for the ESP system.

Brakes and ABS will work fine but ESP will fail down and switch off. 
The light is an MOT fail,
Sensors cost appr £85 each and if you're changing them then I would advise doing both.

It is just possible a brake bleed _(proper one including the ABS pump which can only be down with four wheels off the ground and which Audi Dealers will not do unless you specifically ask and pay extra for!)_ can fix this as air in the system can sometimes fool the sensor/s.
Some have reported this after track days when they've boiled the brake fluid.

Your Vagcom/VCDS hasn't reported if it was constant or intermittent.
Have a look at the ABS Measuring Blocks, Block 5 _(I think? either 3, 4 5 or 6??_) whilst pressing the brake pedal and the two pressure readings should rise, approx together, from zero to about 50 or 80 Bar depending how forceful you are with the pedal! More importantly both should fall immediately back to zero, when the pedal is released. Tolerance is 7 bar, so if above that without a Brake On signal then you will get an ESP fail and lamp.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Thanks for that, I just though as I left the house I hit a branch (small) that had blown of a tree and thought that may have dislodged a wire but if the sensors are on the master cylinder it would be unlikely I would think.
Yes the clock need set - I will have to have a look and see how this is done.
Is the sensor change an easy one or is it a garage job, do you loose fluid when you change then and need to bleed the brakes.
Will plug back in and check the brake pressures in the morning.
Still trying to find my way round that system as I have not long got the cable.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Sensors are under the Brake Master Cylinder and just visible at arms length if you lay under the engine, so I would think lots of fluid loss!

Audi offered 
"it could be free under good will, if under 5 years old and 50k miles, with full Audi Dealer History" But I had to pay £60 for another scan. _(Car was under 5 & 50k miles then!)_
After the scan three dealers stated 10% off (approx £800)_ (not including fluid change nor ABS Bleed)_
One even offered a half price (£120 not 250) service to bring it back into 'Full Audi History' until I stated that I can change the oil and filter for under £40. After then I haven't been back to the stealers!

If the reading is under 7 but not zero you can reset it to zero:-
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=285701&hilit=reset+sensor+ESP&start=15




gogs said:


> Here you go
> 
> Contents [hide]
> 1 Coding
> ...


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Well checked the brakes again.
Brakes on and I get 40 bar on sensor 1
Brakes on and I get 47 bar on sensor 2

Brakes off and I get -1.43 bar on sensor 1
Brakes off and I get +2.23 bar on sensor 2 and this never goes any lower even after several tries so looks like number 2 sensor has gone or could I have a brake sticking.

Frax :?


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

FRAX said:


> Well checked the brakes again.
> Brakes on and I get 40 bar on sensor 1
> Brakes on and I get 47 bar on sensor 2
> 
> ...


 +2.23 will not put the ESP light on as the tolerance is 7 bar, but it does indicate the transducer (switch/sensor) is incorrect. If this was cold then have a look again at the end of a journey when the brake fluid will be warmer. Also try and look before turning off the ignition as this can have a 'reset' effect and alter the readings.

Start shopping around Audi/VAG indies for labour on replacing the two sensors, G201 & G214, ask if they include the ABS bleed. Probably worth doing the fluid change at the same time.

As a comparison my sensors usually sit at + or - 0.7 or at -1.4 even after being zeroed.
If it was a sticking brake then both sensors would be high together._ The sensors act in series on the two circuits so cannot be different without a massive leak somewhere!_


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Thanks for that. I will try to find out where to go for next.
On the + side I have just bought the wife a Volkswagen Tiguan today and was telling the dealer about the TT so he has offered to do me a scan for free.
On the bad side I just found out I am going away for two weeks in the morning so the TT will have to wait till I get home.


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## kasandrich (Sep 5, 2011)

Following 3 months parked up, the battery could be low (clock is not set is an indicator of low volts) if the battery is low, lots of errors and warnings can appear.

Charge the battery, clear the codes and see if they reappear.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

The battery did go flat while it was sitting but has been charged and been on a 60+ mile run since and is holding the charge.
All fault code have been cleared but light stayes on but I have not had her out for another run yet.
Will check it again after a run when the brakes ae hot and see what she spits up.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

What all effects the ESP function.
I know ABS & Steering but I have just read that MAF can also effect it, is there anything else I need think about.
ECU also know about.
I am now wondering about MAF as I fitted a S2000 K&N filter + Forge diverter valve & this was the first run after the fitment of these.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

A flat battery and low running voltage (below 11.2vdc I think is the tolerance level) can cause problems but your only code is 00813 which you have confirmed by checking the Measuring Block(MB)._ Check that MB again when the brake fluid is warm._
Clear the code each time, as it may only appear after a long drive (when the brake fluid gets warm) but also start ringing around local indies for labour prices.

MAF does input to ESP and will put up a code and the ESP light but it won't affect the Brake Pressure Sensors G 214 or 201.

_If you find trouble sleeping read this:-
_ http://www.1stcallhosting.com/tech/audi ... urrentdb=0 A 2005 will have ITT Teves Mk60.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

I am stuck at work and was looking at another forum about the ESP fault.
There was a boy there saying that a loose perol cap can cause this ?
For the life of me I can not see why but thought I would ask ?
It is just strange that the car was fine till I stopped and filled up.
Still go another week before I get home so reading all the (sh*t) usfull info I can. :?


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Well went for a run in the car today as I have been away since last post.
I reversed out of the garage and the ESP light was off - magic.  
Drove for about 20 miles at a steady calm pace then hit the duel carriageway, put my foot down and hit 70 ish at a quick pace and as I did this the ESP light came on again. :? 
I am now wondering if it's my Forge splitter R Recirculating / Blow off valve as that was the first time I had it working hard.
The ESP light did clear again on the way home after I had stopped for something to eat but came back on before I even moved the car.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Most likely coincidence in that the piezo _(the ABS Sensor)_ is only failing when warm. _Was the case with mine anyways?_
Can confirm it by inspecting the ABS MVB _(Measuring Value Block)_ again when it next fails.

Assuming of course, every time it comes on, that pressing the ESP button doesn't clear it.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Na switch does nothing - where is the MVB valve located and what should I look for ?


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

FRAX said:


> Na switch does nothing - where is the MVB valve located and what should I look for ?


MVB = Measuring Value Block
ie Measuring Block in Vagcom

This:-


FRAX said:


> Well checked the brakes again.
> Brakes on and I get 40 bar on sensor 1
> Brakes on and I get 47 bar on sensor 2
> 
> ...


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

"O" OK still playing with VCOM.
Thank Skeee


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## HIRAM (Feb 15, 2010)

[smiley=book2.gif] great info guys


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Well went for a good run today and did about 100 miles and no ESP light.  
What I did was replace the Forge splitter R Recirculating / Blow off valve as the ESP just seemed to come on after a good blast down the road. I did try adjusting the splitter R but now think I may have been going to wrong way.

Forge splitter R Recirculating / Blow off valve was removed and replaced with a Forge DV008 with a green spring; I did debate fitting a shim with the spring with it being 240bhp but never did.

The 008 sound great with the S2000 K&N filter and the car responded very well.
I am now a very happy man  - hope it lasts.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Well my joy was short lived :evil: I was out again today and did about 20 miles and the dreded ESP light came on again and would not clear.
Back home again and plugged in VCDS (not up to speed with this yet)
I cleared my faults and did a rescan and got this (I have removed all the no faults found)

Monday,31,March,2014,14:32:06:02657 
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator 
VCDS Version: 12.12.0.0 
Data version: 20130910

Chassis Type: 8N (8N - Audi TT (1999 > 2007)) 
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 01: Engine Labels: None 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK60-A.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 907 379 H 
Component: ESP ALLRAD MK60 0101 
Coding: 0022544 
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200 
VCID: 41978A7D1B83AB16DBD-515A

2 Faults Found:	 
00810 - Sensor 1/2 for Brake Pressure 
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 
00813 - Sensor 2 for Brake Pressure (G214) 
008 - Implausible Signal

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8N0-820-043.lbl 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8N0-959-655.lbl 
Part No: 8N0 959 655 D 
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1000 
Coding: 01002 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 41978A7D4B83AB16DBD-515A

1 Fault Found:	 
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.lbl 
Part No: 8N2 920 980 D 
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D09 
Coding: 05444 
Shop #: WSC 00000 
VCID: 3861E7991859EADE6C3-4B00 
WUAZZZ8N461900049 AUZ5Z0E1175079

1 Fault Found:	 
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl 
Part No: 02D 900 554 D 
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0011 
VCID: 21572AFDABC38B16BBD-4B00

2 Faults Found:	 
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F 
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8Nx-962-267.lbl 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl 
Part No: 4B0 035 152 E 
Component: chorus II GRO 0004 
Coding: 00302 
Shop #: WSC 01236 
VCID: 1B2B181589AFA1C6611-4B64

2 Faults Found:	 
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent 
00856 - Radio Antenna 
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

As you will see I have quite a lot of voltage faults ?
Brakes have been checked and the results were posted erlier.
Brake light switch, is this the brake peddle switch (sure I saw a part number for this somewhere will need to unt again.

Any thoughts on this lot ?


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## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

When I had those 2 lights coming on intermittently it was an ABS sensor.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

The ABS light has never come on so have rulled out the brakes.


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

Brake light switch throws these codes occasionally. There's a good how too on here somewhere. Cheap tester.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Before looking at the Ross Tech website I would hazard a guess you have two separate faults, 
a power supply problem, and,
a failing brake pressure sensor (G214).

My next course of action would be to check the battery connections and large fuses on top of the battery, are tight, secure and look clean, ie not corroded. I personally would* remove the battery* and remove/disconnect and refit/reconnect them all after a clean with IPA and light lube with a good contact cleaner that contains DeOxit or equivalent.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 According to this it could also be the main ground wire so if it persists then do the same with that.

Re the G214 (and G201) _see my many ramblings on the subject!_

*Make sure the Dashpod has powered down,
ie door closed for at least a minute
before disconnecting or connecting the battery!*

You can monitor the system voltage using Climatronic Code 20 however if it is momentary dip in supply voltage (_ie a loose connection somewhere) _ then it may be easy to miss (and dangerous) whilst driving!


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Thanks Skeee for all yer help.
Lots more things to check but I think you could be right, the problem is very intermittent but today I caught it.
To me it does look like a wiring fault and I will work through them as you have listed.
Sadly I am away in the morning again so there will be a bit of a delay.
If I have no luck this time it will have to go to Audi (last resort)
It is very strange that I can drive 60+ miles one day and no fault and then 20 miles next day and ESP comes on again.
I would be happier now if it would just stay on and give me a chance of finding it.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

FRAX said:


> .... It is very strange that I can drive 60+ miles one day and no fault and then 20 miles next day and ESP comes on again.
> I would be happier now if it would just stay on and give me a chance of finding it.


 _Was it 20 miles on a warm day and 60 on a cold one? _
Very similar to my experience.
The piezo electric switch (_Brake Pressure Sensor_ G214 or G201) only failed when it got hot. So it's taking some miles for the the brake fluid to warm up to then warm the switch (_sensor_) before it fails.
Bear this in mind when you check the MVB (ABS Measuring Blocks) as if you wait to check it the next morning when all has cooled down then the readings may be ok.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Yip the 60 mile run was at an outside temp of 6 deg and the 20 mile run was done at a temp of about 12 deg.
I have made another cock up, should have measured the brake pressure sensors as soon as I got home.  
As I kind of rulled out these I did not think of checking them when I got home but as said the last test was done on a cold car.
I have just checked the battery 12.44vdc and the fuse - both them and the earth conection were good and clean with no corrosion what so ever.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Slow updates as I work away from home.
Yesterday I was under the car replacing my suspension and found the Heldex earth strap was snapped.
Replaced with a bit of house earth cable in the short term.
I thought that that might have been causing my fault but no.
Went out for a run and did about 10 miles when the ESP light came on again  so turned and headed home.
This time scanned the car as soon as I got home.
Only code was G214 fault.
Checked the mass block and sure enough when I took my foot of the brake G214 pressure hovered around 42 bar.
As said the difference when hot is huge.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Skeee said:


> A flat battery and low running voltage (below 11.2vdc I think is the tolerance level) can cause problems but your only code is 00813 which you have confirmed by checking the Measuring Block(MB)._ Check that MB again when the brake fluid is warm._
> Clear the code each time, as it may only appear after a long drive (when the brake fluid gets warm)
> * but also start ringing around local indies for labour prices.
> *
> ...


Time to find a good local indy.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Yip Skeee
Any idea of cost and do you think I should tell them my findings or just leave it up to them.


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## Skeee (Jun 9, 2009)

Sensors cost appr 85 each (Audi & Indy's recommend changing the pair, G201 & G214) plus labour.
Audi quoted over 700 but it should cost around half that at a good indy.
Mention it's failed G214 but most will scan it again as it takes a few minutes and shouldn't cost extra unless you're taking it to a main dealer!


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## Idun (Nov 4, 2012)

See this post. I had similar and tried all other tips and suggestions but replacing both sensors cured and nothing since ( he touches wood).
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=325508&p=2564087#p2564087

Sorted thanks to Skee


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Thanks for all the help boys, I am going to phone and book it in to get both done + fluid change.
Will update you when its done, I did have a look at it last night - what a twat to get to, almost wish I had a left hand drive as their ones look easy.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Car went into a VAG garage last night and he phoned today to say he had carried out his own checks and came to the same results so two new sensors being ordered and fitted, hope to get another update tomorrow.


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## FRAX (Jul 21, 2013)

Got the car back today with both sensors replaced and the hole system bleed through.
I have only drove for about 15 miles and no ESP light as yet so here is hoping it stays off.
I decided to buy Audi parts which cost me £88.16 per sensor so I hope this pays of.
Job cost a fair bit but if it fixes the problem I will be happy.


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