# WHATS THE BEST BIG BRAKE KIT TO GO FOR??



## TTKING (Aug 6, 2008)

Hi guys 

I've been wanting to uprate my brakes for a good while now but could do with some guidance from all you guys who have done this before. As i will be going BTK soon i will need to be able to stop and really would like to get the brakes sorted before the power!! The car should be hopefully 400+bhp 

Cheers 
Neil


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## ecko2702 (Jan 26, 2009)

Brembo is a good setup works great. I have Stasis I just got them in and getting them installed next weekend. Just remember If you get a Big Brake Kit you will most likely need to get bigger wheels (if you haven't already)to clear the caliper


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## Blue TTop (Jan 10, 2005)

StopTech is a high quality product that was engineered for the TT.


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## Silversea (Jun 18, 2002)

Any kit that uses a Porsche / Brembo caliper (theres loads now) and also a good quality Brembo disc (not so many as they're expensive :wink: ).
Your first choice should be a kit with a Mono-block caliper as the earlier 993 uses a 2-piece caliper (pictured above) that is prone for corrosion forming below the stainless brake pad guide plates causing the pads to stick.

Have a look here:

http://www.movit.de/rahmen/audi.htm

Not cheap but well worth the money IMHO. I've just removed my kit as I'm just about to advertise the car and the kit really highlights how [email protected] the original brakes are........ [smiley=bigcry.gif]

It's one of the best mods you'll do! :wink:


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## VSPURS (Aug 31, 2008)

I went for the Stage 5 kit for the same reasons that you are going to change. I only ended up with power of around 320bhp but my decision was to ensure that it would stop as well as it would go. These are the calipers off of the Cayenne so plenty of stopping power:


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

VSPURS - I thourght they used 365mm disk? (your look alot smaller) Tho they are 19" wheels arnt they? Any more side on pics and a spec of the brakes?

Cheers

Sheldon


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## VSPURS (Aug 31, 2008)

Bikerz said:


> VSPURS - I thourght they used 365mm disk? (your look alot smaller) Tho they are 19" wheels arnt they? Any more side on pics and a spec of the brakes?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Sheldon


Don't be mistaken by the pics, they are the biggest brakes I have ever seen on a TT!


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

Porsche GT3 (6 pots) with 380mm discs. VSPURS, out of interest are the Cayenne ones 6 pot too?


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## VSPURS (Aug 31, 2008)

Yes indeed! Its the Stage 5 below:

http://thettshop.co.uk/performance.asp?cat=6227&product=600428


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

Tim are they 18's?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

I had the ECS kit stage V but this time I am leaning towards Alcon another very well respected brake manufacturer 
who do the calipers for Stasis, go right up to 370mm with a 6 pot caliper


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## jaqcom (Apr 20, 2009)

How do you guys rate the standard brakes on a 3.2 dsg, ? talking of brakes I had a go in a Aerial Atom last night, now that has stopping power !(and go )
David


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## Tim G (Feb 16, 2005)

VSPURS said:


> Yes indeed! Its the Stage 5 below:
> 
> http://thettshop.co.uk/performance.asp?cat=6227&product=600428


I thought they were. I actually thought they were the same caliper but they're not it seems.



Bikerz said:


> Tim are they 18's?


Yes



jaqcom said:


> How do you guys rate the standard brakes on a 3.2 dsg, ? talking of brakes I had a go in a Aerial Atom last night, now that has stopping power !(and go )
> David


Thats because weight wise theres virtually nothing to stop :lol:


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## Blue TTop (Jan 10, 2005)

Just stay away from drilled rotors. More information from StopTech website below picture.










*Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors. *

*Isn't the StopTech ST-40 caliper is the same as a Brembo or Porsche Big Red?
The ST-40 is a completely new caliper designed specifically to perform on the street and track. The Patented "Bolt-in" Bridge is unique to our design, making the ST-40 two times stiffer than the competition. The ST-40 offers 8 different piston diameters to choose from, so the caliper can be made to specifically balance any application. The ST-40 can be made to fit from 28 to 35mm thick rotors and 328 to 380mm rotor diameters. Dust boots are standard on all street calipers, and commonly available pad wear sensors can be used. Though the ST-40 will mount in the same place as a Brembo F-40 or F-50 caliper and uses common pistons and seals, it is a superior caliper in terms of stiffness, versatility and price. Porsche Big Red calipers have a taller pad and require a larger rotor annulus (heavier rotor). While this taller pad sometimes lasts longer, for a given rotor and piston size the brake torque is less. *


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

It is easy to get carried away with brakes, but IMO anything more than a 4 pot is just for show on a TT. The 4 pots from the 993T or 996t/GT3 (later models of the 996T and GT3 had 6 pot callipers, earlier ones had 4 pots) are more than enough stopping power for a TT, remember the cars these were designed to stop!

More pistons doesn't necessarily mean more braking force, unless the callipers and pads are bigger too, otherwise it just means the pressure is distributed more evenly on the same size brake pad. It is hard to compare different callipers without knowing the size of the pistons, size of the pads, distribution of force etc. You could get better braking from a 4 pot than a 6 pot dependant on the design of the calliper / pad / size of the discs etc.

Just because you are adding horse power doesn't mean you need to crazy with the brakes, the amount of breaking you need is proportional to the weight of your car and obviously how quickly you want to decellerate (ok so with more horses you might be driving quicker therefore need to decellerate quicker!!). Simple physics!

Bigger discs will help more than getting 6 pot callipers (IMO) as you get more force as you are applying the pressure to the disc further away from the axis of rotation.

Also remember that bigger discs and callipers mean more weight hanging out on your hubs, so you don't want to over do it and have negative impact on your handling by having big lumps of metal out there.

Agree with Des that the 996 monoblocks are a better design than the 993 (which is what I have on my 388BHP TTR by the way and it stops more than adequately!), however I had the 996 (GT3 - 4 pots) before and they are big units and required huge spacers to fit over my wheels, so consider that when buying your kit too, lots of people have run into issues with wheels / spacers and fat brakes! The 993 units are slimmer and if you look after them then they won't corrode!

Steve (Caney) is selling a set for £500 in the For Sale Section, think these are 993t based, but good for £500.


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## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

elrao said:


> Steve (Caney) is selling a set for £500 in the For Sale Section, think these are 993t based, but good for £500.


Rob, do you have oem rear brakes?

Reckon Caneys set up is overkill?


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

Yeah, OEM rears at the moment. I have also spoken to Steve about his rear brake kit, but only as my rear discs are knackered and I need to replace them anyway. I would not pay £700 for it, but would buy his second hand (for the right price) as I need to replace mine anyway and a new set of rear discs is probably going to run £100 anyway.

The extra braking can only help with my car as I do have the extra power and as it is a weekend car when I do drive it I do tend to drive it hard, brake late etc!


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## Hark (Aug 23, 2007)

I considered it but decided on mine the brembos are more than adequate. Always like the idea of stopping quicker, but at the mo the money is better spent elsewhere.

Also still interested in shedding lots of weight from mine which would help braking as well.

Wish your pole positions were alot cheaper. [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## mighTy Tee (Jul 10, 2002)

Does anyone have an opinion on rear brakes?

There seems to be 3 options:

a) Tarox @ £700+
b) ECS Stage 2v2 @ £700+
c) ECS Stage 1 @ just under £500

I assume for fast road use the stage 1s are more than good enough?


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Rich, I personally am just going for standard rears with the little crescents machined in to match the 
fronts when I finally get round to buying them :roll: :roll:


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## elrao (Apr 19, 2005)

mighTy Tee said:


> Does anyone have an opinion on rear brakes?
> 
> There seems to be 3 options:
> 
> ...


For fast road use the OEM rears are good enough, you can upgrade pads and discs using the same callipers etc. and probably get an improvement, I know when I moved to grooved discs and EBC pads on the front (before I went to the porsche kit) that there was a noticeable improvement over stock.


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## Blue TTop (Jan 10, 2005)

There are quite a few reported problems with ECS brakes in the US. I would *never *use their products on such a critical part of my car.


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## robokn (Feb 21, 2006)

Never had a problem with mine in over a year and 20k miles


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## S10TYG (Mar 7, 2007)

£1500 for RS4/ECS set up you can't go wrong. I have ECS Stage 5 and love the way they feel and look :mrgreen:


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## TTKING (Aug 6, 2008)

Hi guys

Thanks for all the imfo  Some really good opinons for me to consider when buying.
Has anyone heard or got the AP 6 or 4 pot set up?? I know most of u have brembo or porsche set up just thought that AP are a massive company and are right up there with the best or them 

Cheers
Neil


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## S10TYG (Mar 7, 2007)

I think AP are good for track racing. Stick with brembo/porsche/mov'it you can't go wrong


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

AP's come on TVRs. Disks are pricey. the TT 4 pot kit is £1400


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## S10TYG (Mar 7, 2007)

Bikerz said:


> AP's come on TVRs


Look how reliable they are :lol:


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## rustyintegrale (Oct 1, 2006)

S10TYG said:


> £1500 for RS4/ECS set up you can't go wrong. I have ECS Stage 5 and love the way they feel and look :mrgreen:


Where from Scotty?

Are you happy with the management thing at your employers..?

Apols. if you're not there still, my eyes is on cars not balls... :wink:

Cheers

Rich


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## Silversea (Jun 18, 2002)

I haven't tried AP's on a TT but I have a 330mm kit on my Golf Rallye and they're really good. a difficult comparrison but I really rate them on that. I would happily buy an AP kit again.
Some of the guys over on RS246 and SRS have then fitted to S4's and RS4's and rave about them so they must be good!


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## Silversea (Jun 18, 2002)

Blue TTop said:


> Just stay away from drilled rotors. More information from StopTech website below picture.


That is the problem with discs that are physically drilled, the Porsche / Brembo discs have "cast in holes" not drilled!
The advantage is it is less prone to cracking under extreme temperature and braking.


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## lego man (Nov 9, 2008)

Hi,

My brakes are very good for stopping and slowing down !!!

Really, I can hammer them on a track and never get any brake fade.

Good progressive pedal not to sharp. 

LEGO


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## GRE608Y (Oct 2, 2008)

There's been no mention of Hi-Spec 4 or 6 pots either. I run the 4 pots on my G40 Polo and they're awesome (admittedly the Polo is under 800kg!) They're good value too from what I remember?


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## Blue TTop (Jan 10, 2005)

robokn said:


> Never had a problem with mine in over a year and 20k miles


ECS Caliper brackets have failed. Here is a picture that MCPi (Defcon inventor) took of his faulty ECS part:










I will never risk my life by taking a chance on ECS' faulty brakes and suspension parts. I've seen too many close calls.


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## Bikerz (Aug 23, 2008)

S10TYG said:


> Bikerz said:
> 
> 
> > AP's come on TVRs
> ...


Cant rember ever hearing about teh brakes failing tho :wink:


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## rodhotter (Dec 30, 2011)

at just over $1,000 with necessary different braided lines a good bang for the buck IMO. a very easy bolt on, radial mount 2 pc floating rotor, 4 piston alum caliper.fits under most 17" wheels, mine needed spacers but they were already on!!


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## Bartsimpsonhead (Aug 14, 2011)

I think he might have found some brakes he likes after five years...


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## Callum-TT (Jun 3, 2013)

Bartsimpsonhead said:


> I think he might have found some brakes he likes after five years...


Probably doesn't even have the car anymore lol

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## conlechi (May 6, 2006)

:lol:


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

Using the magic search button I bumped into this old topic...

I would like to ask a few questions, did a bit of searching but still confused. So will try to be as simple and straight to the point as possible.

Setting first the parameters of my car
Car/Engine: TT MK1 1.8 225hp. no tuning, stock power (yet...)
Rims: OEM 18" Ronal from v6

1) how many pistons does the OEM Caliper have?
2) bigger Caliper means more pistons?
3) more pistons means better braking? (I think I read that this is not always the case)
4) without having to change the Calipers, what would you suggest so as to improve the braking? Anything more than changing discs, pads, brake fluid? 
5) if I were to change the Calipers, what would you suggest to improve braking without having to add wheel spacers?
6) are wheel spacers safe?
7) what brake kits you've put on?
a) calipers - number of pistons
b) discs size and brand
c) pads brand
d) spacers on?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

napostolidis said:


> Using the magic search button I bumped into this old topic...


I'll try and answer a few, but please read my signature: you shouldn't listen to me as I don't have a clue... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

1) how many pistons does the OEM Caliper have? - yours has one piston per caliper

2) bigger Caliper means more pistons? - no

3) more pistons means better braking? (I think I read that this is not always the case) - absolutely not; you should look for a caliper which spreads the braking force across the entire face of a large pad.

But, you also need to consider the surface area of the total number of pistons - you don't want to drastically increase the surface area because 1) your brake pedal will need to travel a lot further to make the brakes work, which will give a poor pedal feel, and 2) it will significantly increase the amount of brake force which goes to the front calipers, reducing rear braking force (the TT's rear brakes don't do a LOT but they do need to be reasonably in-balance when braking in corners and for the ESP, I should imagine).

4) without having to change the Calipers, what would you suggest so as to improve the braking? Anything more than changing discs, pads, brake fluid? - good (OEM) rotors and pads, new fluid, and bed them in properly. The OEM brakes are very good. Might be worth checking the master cylinder is perfect, but it's unlikely to be at fault unless you have a brake pedal that gradually descends to the floor under constant pressure with the engine running and at a halt.

5) if I were to change the Calipers, what would you suggest to improve braking without having to add wheel spacers? - V6 TT 334mm rotors and 2-piston calipers are good, but heavy. Leon Cupra R calipers are good lightweight Brembo 4-piston calipers, but are rare, overpriced, and almost always need servicing if you buy second-hand.

Hi-Spec do good 4- and 6-pot kits, as do AP Racing (and Reyland Motorsport do a variant of the AP Racing kits with their own, less-expensive-but-still-excellent rotors and bells, but they don't tend to reply to e-mails so I've given up on them). For a road car, if you go for an aftermarket kit like these, it would be advisable to get calipers with piston dust seals - some calipers don't have them as they're designed for track cars which produce too much heat for piston dust seals, but these calipers must be rebuilt on a regular basis to prevent dirt ingress and corrosion.

6) are wheel spacers safe?

Yes, up to maybe 10-15mm, at which point you would be better to use hubcentric spacers which have their own integrated threads and centering rings. H&R do good, Tüv approved spacers and hubcentric adaptors - other good companies are also out there. You might want to fit a stud kit instead of using wheel bolts - that's fine, but I would avoid titanium stud kits as steel seems like a better metal for this application.

7) what brake kits you've put on? - Shed uses Porsche 996 Turbo Brembo calipers at the moment and is being changed to a Hi-Spec 6-pot kit to clear the new wheels.

a) calipers - number of pistons -- Porsche Brembo: 4 pistons; Hi Spec: 6 pistons
b) discs size and brand -- Porsche: TT V6 OEM 334x32mm rotors; Hi Spec: 380x32mm
c) pads brand -- Porsche: Brembo Porsche OEM (~£75 from eBay); Hi Spec: Mintex
d) spacers on? -- yes  - the Porsche calipers need a 25mm hubcentric adaptor on the front. The Hi Specs should only need a 15mm hubcentric.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps.

/Al


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## miTTzee (Dec 8, 2015)

HideHi - excellent post Alex - have learnt a lot from that. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Many thanks , hope the Op has picked up a few tips. - Nice one 

miTTzee - :wink:


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## Neil (May 7, 2002)

"Back in the day" (years ago) these were spoken well of, but I have no direct experience:

http://www.thettshop.co.uk/latest.asp?c ... uct=600438


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

alexgreyhead said:


> Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps.
> 
> /Al


This reply goes far beyond my expectations! Thank you! 

I read it a few times, will read again more times as I search what you wrote.
One thing that caught my eye... you say


alexgreyhead said:


> 6) are wheel spacers safe?
> 
> *Yes, up to maybe 10-15mm*


And then you say that your (main?) brake kit


alexgreyhead said:


> d) spacers on? -- yes - *the Porsche calipers need a 25mm hubcentric adaptor on the front*.


So why are you having 25mm spacers when the safe limit is 10-15mm ?

(btw what Rim size you've put on?)


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

There are two types of spacers bolt on and bolt through, the bolt through type can be used in small thin applications as the spacer is secured by the bolts that go thro the spacer into the hub. The bolt on type is bolted to the hub before the wheel is attached and the wheel is then bolted to the spacer as the spacer needs to have a lot of strength so it needs a minimum thickness for the strength reqd to hold the wheel so a minimum thickness of 15mm is reqd but even this is pretty thin to absorb the forces of the wheel!

Stevie


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

outdoor stevie said:


> There are two types of spacers bolt on and bolt through, the bolt through type can be used in small thin applications as the spacer is secured by the bolts that go thro the spacer into the hub. The bolt on type is bolted to the hub before the wheel is attached and the wheel is then bolted to the spacer as the spacer needs to have a lot of strength so it needs a minimum thickness for the strength reqd to hold the wheel so a minimum thickness of 15mm is reqd but even this is pretty thin to absorb the forces of the wheel!
> 
> Stevie


Thank you. So if i get it correct, with one "screw" you secure both spacer and wheel? Is this safe?
Compared to bolt-on that you secure 2 parts, one from hub to spacer and the 2nd from spacer to wheel.
And the bolt on has to be thick enough.. over 15mm. Is there any disadvantage of adding a 25mm or 30mm bolt-on spacer?


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

alexgreyhead said:


> 5) if I were to change the Calipers, what would you suggest to improve braking without having to add wheel spacers? - V6 TT 334mm rotors and 2-piston calipers are good, but heavy. Leon Cupra R calipers are good lightweight Brembo 4-piston calipers, but are rare, overpriced, and almost always need servicing if you buy second-hand.


so these Leon Cupra R caliper won't require any spacers?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-Leon-Cu ... SwWV9bMXJ6


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

outdoor stevie said:


> There are two types of spacers bolt on and bolt through...


Brilliant explanation - better than I could have come up with. 



napostolidis said:


> outdoor stevie said:
> 
> 
> > There are two types of spacers bolt on and bolt through...
> ...


I personally wouldn't fit a 15mm spacer which was a bolt-through type; it might be possible to do so safely by using longer wheel bolts, but I don't think I would feel comfortable going down this route.

For hubcentrics rather than bolt-through, I have 15mm hubcentric adaptors made of steel - I don't think it would be safe to make them from aluminium as there would be very little thickness under the bolt heads that secure the spacer to the wheel.



napostolidis said:


> Compared to bolt-on that you secure 2 parts, one from hub to spacer and the 2nd from spacer to wheel.
> And the bolt on has to be thick enough.. over 15mm. Is there any disadvantage of adding a 25mm or 30mm bolt-on spacer?


Shed is running 25mm hubcentric spacers at the front, 35mm at the back. Both are aluminium, made by H&R, and are Tüv approved - the approval was the main reason I bought them as I could be reasonably confident they will be good quality.

You also need to consider what a spacer will do to your offset (your "ET") - Shed is running an effective offset of ET20 on the front and ET10 on the back, with 8 inch wide wheels (ET45 wheels minus 25mm on the front = ET20; ET45 - 35mm on the back = ET10).



napostolidis said:


> so these Leon Cupra R caliper won't require any spacers?


That depends on the wheel but generally the Brembo-style calipers will sit a lot further out from the brake rotor face, so there's a much higher chance you'll need spacers.

Just my 2p-worth, but those calipers look like they've been resprayed with a rattle can and there's overspray on the pistons and seals, so it's likely they haven't been professionally rebuilt.

It's not a show-stopper, necessarily, but I would be careful to make sure you don't buy calipers which are in unknown condition inside.

All just my opinion from stuff I've read on the internet/broken myself on my car, so best taken with a pinch of salt [smiley=bigcry.gif]

/Al


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

alexgreyhead said:


> Shed is running 25mm hubcentric spacers at the front, 35mm at the back. Both are *aluminium*, made by H&R, and are Tüv approved - the approval was the main reason I bought them as I could be reasonably confident they will be good quality.


 what if you had put on your Shed some 25mm steel hubcentric spacers instead of aluminium?

Another new world for me.... spacers vs offset! :-| 
Right now I have these wheels
Size: 17x7.5
Lugs: 5
Bolt Pattern: 100mm
*Offset: 32mm*








But I have ordered new tyres (Michelin Pilot Sport 4 225x40x18 92Y) to fit with below new wheel rims in about 10 days.
I understand that the new wheels will fit straight away, no spacers etc.
Size: 18x7.5
Lugs: 5
Bolt Pattern: 100mm
*Offset: 32mm*









So, a straight swap between these 2 rims won't affect the offset of the car, right?
However, a spacer would affect the offset. And of course the next reasonable question is... what's the best offset?
I won't start any new topic as this search button is a great invention!!
Here is what i found https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1038209

In the ideal world, I would prefer:
A) to keep the original offset of 32mm. Manufacturer/Audi must know what they do.
B) be able to fit some nice red brembo GT Junior 

But since I don't think that this would be possible, I would have to find solutions.
So following questions please
1) adding spacer (to fit the red Brembo GT Junior), what difference would make to car handling a different offset, ie 32mm vs 20mm in front wheels?
2)
i) Tarox big brakes.. do they really fit without spacers?
ii) without having to add spacers, is there any big brakes kit i can use?


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

The QS had ET26 front and ET25 rear as it's OEM fitment, so Audi didn't restrict itself to ET32 with the Mk1 TT.


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

David C said:


> The QS had ET26 front and ET25 rear as it's OEM fitment, so Audi didn't restrict itself to ET32 with the Mk1 TT.


thank you.
maybe for the QS rims, this is the ideal setup (ET26 front, ET25 rear).
QS rims: 8x18 front, 8.5x18 rear, 235x40x18
Ronal v6 rims: 7.5x18, 225x40x18


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

napostolidis said:


> David C said:
> 
> 
> > The QS had ET26 front and ET25 rear as it's OEM fitment, so Audi didn't restrict itself to ET32 with the Mk1 TT.
> ...


Yes - I'm guessing that ET difference is due to the extra 13-ish mm wheel width?

I.e...

18x7.5 V6 Ronals - 7.5" width = 190.5mm width - ET32

vs

18x8 QS wheels - 8" width = 203.2mm width - ET26

The QS wheels are ~13mm wider, so Audi decreased the ET value, pushing the wheel out towards the edge of the wheelarch by the full 13mm.

Compared to the other TTs, this gives the impression that the QS has wheels that are 1" wider - quite a nice visual trick.

(All just guesstimation - my maths may well be wrong).

/Al


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

alexgreyhead said:


> napostolidis said:
> 
> 
> > David C said:
> ...


That conclusion does skip the fact that all the other 8"x18" TT wheels were ET32.


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

David C said:


> That conclusion does skip the fact that all the other 8"x18" TT wheels were ET32.


Dammit! I'm wrong again. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I was going on an assumption based on an earlier post that the V6 Ronals were 7.5" wide (and I thought at the time when I read that they were 8...).

It would make more sense that Shed's original 7-spokers were 8" actually - I remember buying tyres for them...

Anyway, nicely spotted. I knew my maths couldn't be trusted :mrgreen:


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

Again this magic search button...
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 2&t=239380


jbell said:


> 17"
> 7.5x17" ET32 fitted with 225/45 R17" tyres (6 Spoke or "Comp" wheels)
> 
> 18"
> ...


However, to summarise not to lose track, my questions are the following:


napostolidis said:


> alexgreyhead said:
> 
> 
> > Shed is running 25mm hubcentric spacers at the front, 35mm at the back. Both are *aluminium*, made by H&R, and are Tüv approved - the approval was the main reason I bought them as I could be reasonably confident they will be good quality.
> ...





napostolidis said:


> So following questions please
> 1) adding spacer (to fit the red Brembo GT Junior), what difference would make to car handling a different offset, ie 32mm vs 20mm in front wheels?
> 2)
> i) Tarox big brakes.. do they really fit without spacers?
> ii) without having to add spacers, is there any big brakes kit i can use?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

napostolidis said:


> Again this magic search button...
> https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 2&t=239380


So maybe Shed's old wheels _were_ 7.5 after all...? I dunno...



napostolidis said:


> However, to summarise not to lose track ... what if you had put on your Shed some 25mm steel hubcentric spacers instead of aluminium?


At 25mm, for a good hubcentric spacer, either metal should be perfectly fine I would have thought?


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## NtG (Jan 2, 2018)

As wasn't fair to ruin DC's Misano Red thread, i put my question about how to fit brembo breaks here
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &start=450


YELLOW_TT said:


> DC240S said:
> 
> 
> > napostolidis said:
> ...


Which discs what size should i use in order to fit them without spacers?


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## alexgreyhead (Oct 12, 2015)

napostolidis said:


> As wasn't fair to ruin DC's Misano Red thread, i put my question about how to fit brembo breaks here
> 
> Which discs what size should i use in order to fit them without spacers?


I... I think there's some confusion here.

Whether a caliper clears the wheel is primarily determined by:

1. Offset: if you get a wheel with a lower ET value (e.g. ET22 rather than ET32 - which would put the inside face of the spokes 10mm further away from the caliper for two identical wheels), it will be more likely to clear the caliper, and
2. Shape of the inside face of the wheel's spokes.

I suspect the easiest approach for you would be to fit a good bolt-through spacer or hubcentric adaptor; then you will be able to find the wheels you want, work out how much spacing is needed, and hopefully get a spacer to the right size which doesn't end up with your tyres poking out of your wheelarches.

It's theoretically possible to find brake discs where the disc itself (the "rotor") sits further into the wheel well, but you then need to move the caliper inwards using appropriate (tested, mm-perfect) brackets. And they will probably foul the lower arm balljoint or the ABS ring, so - practically-speaking - that's out of the question.

Or, you might have a "dished" wheel where the spokes are further away from the brake caliper the further from the hub you go, so fitting a larger-diameter brake rotor and spacing the calipers out - again with an appropriate bracket - would be theoretically possible. But in this scenario, you have to consider that the brake disk might not be able to fit far enough into the caliper to get full contact with the brake pads' friction material, so you might end up effectively reduce the brakes' effectiveness.

I've had to consider these things in trying to work out how to get Shed's new wheels to fit without fouling the Brembo calipers - the solution for me has been to order up larger diameter brakes and Hi-Spec calipers; the new wheels have dished spokes, so moving the caliper away from the hub centre should (I hope [smiley=bigcry.gif]) allow the brakes and wheels to fit.

I dunno... It's late and I need to go to bed. Sorry if this reply doesn't make a whole lot of sense... 

/Al


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

Just remember that the GT junior kit is rather expensive and is designed to go with larger discs as standard and not the TT standard discs so you will also require discs as well to make the Most of the upgrade.
Also when using the spacers you will then need longer wheel bolts with the correct 'seat' for your wheels either radiused or angled to penetrate the hub.
If just going for the standard production brembo four pot caliper which a number of manufactures use on their cars then you can fit these to the standard TT discs, these are available widely second hand, all the different calipers will require mounting brackets to fix the caliper to the hub.
Whilst at it you would be well advised to fit braded brake lines to make the most of your new set up so don't forget to add those to the list of stuff to get!

Stevie


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## David C (Apr 15, 2013)

outdoor stevie said:


> Just remember that the GT junior kit is rather expensive and is designed to go with larger discs as standard and not the TT standard discs so you will also require discs as well to make the Most of the upgrade.


The Brembo GT kit will come with the discs and everything you need to fit the brakes including hoses.

I'm sure they use the LCR 323mm discs.

So will end up similar to the LCR setup.


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