# Help - electronic handbrake won't release!



## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Went to go out in the car but the electronic handbrake won't release! You can hear it engage and try to disengage but nothing! Seatbelt secure and doors shut. Light on unit comes on and goes off. Car is parked in such a tight spot that its going nowhere without being fixed on site. Car has 5 year Audi warranty so assume fully covered?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Disconnect battery Neg cable for a few minutes & then reconnect ?
Hoggy.


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## MClaine55 (Feb 16, 2018)

Or try pressing the brake pedal and then manually release handbrake


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Disconnect battery Neg cable for a few minutes & then reconnect ?
> Hoggy.


Thanks for the suggestion Hoggy. Will doing that cause any other issues with VC setting or clock timings etc?


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

MClaine55 said:


> Or try pressing the brake pedal and then manually release handbrake


Manually??


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## -:[KM]:- (May 16, 2010)

I think he meant 'push the button'. 
Hope it works for you.


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## MClaine55 (Feb 16, 2018)

What he said


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

A quick search on-line shows this isn't exactly unheard of in VAG cars. The remedy seems to involve removing the motor part of the caliper and then using a Torx bit to manually (not pushing the button) unwind the pads from the disc.

Since your car is still under warranty can you simply call out the Audi rescue service? If the car's parking space allows nil or limited access to remove the rear wheel(s), that could make things a little more awkward.


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

One more reason to have an old-fashioned lever :?


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

brittan said:


> A quick search on-line shows this isn't exactly unheard of in VAG cars. The remedy seems to involve removing the motor part of the caliper and then using a Torx bit to manually (not pushing the button) unwind the pads from the disc.
> 
> Since your car is still under warranty can you simply call out the Audi rescue service? If the car's parking space allows nil or limited access to remove the rear wheel(s), that could make things a little more awkward.


Audi dealer is refusing to attend off-site because whilst I have 5 year Audi warranty the rescue service was only for 3 years (how daft is that)!! Fortunately there is space behind the car to perhaps do what is necessary but at present I am stuck with having to speak to the authorised breakdown agent who agrees that to move my car would be extremely difficult when the repair could effectively be done, temporary or otherwise, at my home without risking damage to my car in moving it.

It's going to be a long day!!


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

Looks like an audi:





Frankenstein way (not sure how it fits "do not disconnect the wire from 1st clip"):


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

WL80 said:


> Looks like an audi:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Question is, does the TT come with removable bolts on the calliper housings, if not it looks like its a lift job regardless of whether they want to come out to look at it or not! Apparently having AWD makes things more difficult!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

35mphspeedlimit said:


> Audi dealer is refusing to attend off-site because whilst I have 5 year Audi warranty the rescue service was only for 3 years (how daft is that)!!


So daft that I didn't even consider it. I thought that since recovery was part of the warranty, longer warranty meant longer recovery. I hope the recovery person manages to sort it without trying to move the car.



35mphspeedlimit said:


> Question is, does the TT come with removable bolts on the calliper housings, if not it looks like its a lift job regardless of whether they want to come out to look at it or not! Apparently having AWD makes things more difficult!


Answer is, Yes. It's item 10 including fasteners.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Thanks Brittan, shame Audi dealer isn't as helpful as you! To be fair, the recovery guy has been a gem but, as yet, the car is still sat tucked away in my drive. Like me, he doesn't want to fiddle with the car or try to move it from its current position and will talk to the dealer again in the morning. I wonder if diagnostics could clear the fault, at least to enable it to be driven up to the dealer? I'm certainly not going to try to do anything and want the tech to come here. Is it really too much to ask on an Island 7x3?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

I do have VCDS but you're a bit far away to pop round and plug it into your car.

Diagnosis should give a clue as to where the problem lies but when something that should move doesn't, it's not something that just diagnosis and deleting a fault record can fix.

I presume that the recovery guy needs to mug up on the procedure for manually releasing the rear caliper(s).


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

brittan said:


> I do have VCDS but you're a bit far away to pop round and plug it into your car.
> 
> Diagnosis should give a clue as to where the problem lies but when something that should move doesn't, it's not something that just diagnosis and deleting a fault record can fix.
> 
> I presume that the recovery guy needs to mug up on the procedure for manually releasing the rear caliper(s).


It's beginning to look that way but he is understandably hesitant as there is a risk of causing further damage to the electronic handbrake assembly. I guess if its all covered under the warranty I shouldn't worry and its certainly better than damaging the car trying to prise it out of its tight parking spot!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Most decent recovery companies have access to wheel dollies, would these help move it.
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/wd2000- ... EqEALw_wcB
Hoggy.


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## cliveju (Jun 27, 2018)

Something that really struck me on reading my handbook is that the TT parking brake operates on all 4 wheels. The handbook suggests using it if the brake pedal fails.


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## Omychron (Sep 9, 2016)

cliveju said:


> Something that really struck me on reading my handbook is that the TT parking brake operates on all 4 wheels. The handbook suggests using it if the brake pedal fails.





> Incorrect. Parking brake only applies on rear wheels.
> Using the parking brake when pedal fails engages the _electric_ parking brake on the rear wheels, as opposed to the _hydraulic_ main brakes on all 4 wheels.
> It's a nice last ditch backup in case of total main brake failure, but don't expect to stop smoothly!


I stand corrected! Applies brakes on all 4.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

cliveju said:


> Something that really struck me on reading my handbook is that the TT parking brake operates on all 4 wheels. The handbook suggests using it if the brake pedal fails.


You're right and that's something I haven't tried on the TT. I did try it in a RS6 at one of the Audi driving experience days a few years ago.

With the car stationary the handbrake applies the rear brakes only via a motor on each rear caliper.

When the car is moving, pulling up and holding the handbrake 'switch' carries out an emergency stop using all four brakes via the normal hydraulic system, ABS and EBD. Your passenger could therefore stop the car for you.

https://www.audi.co.uk/glossary/e/elect ... brake.html


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Just testing to see if this Topic reappears, after getting logged out earlier on today.
Hoggy.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Latest update - slightly better news in that it has been agreed that an Audi technician will be dispatched tomorrow to release the electronic parking brake using diagnostics equipment. Apparently it will put it into service mode to allow it to be driven out of my tight parking space and onto the pick up truck. Let's see what actually happens!


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

That sounds more hopeful.

I've had time to look at the manual now and the diagnostic tester is indeed required to retract the caliper pistons for brake pad renewal. I'm not sure if VCDS can do that.










The manual release of the electric handbrake is in a different section:


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## BauhauTTS (Jan 8, 2017)

Did you try putting it in gear and gently trying to pull away to see whether the automatic release works?


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

BauhauTTS said:


> Did you try putting it in gear and gently trying to pull away to see whether the automatic release works?


Yes, only tentatively in drive as I'm parked 12 inches in front of a granite wall and slightly more throttle in reverse and no likey to both!


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

brittan said:


> That sounds more hopeful.
> 
> I've had time to look at the manual now and the diagnostic tester is indeed required to retract the caliper pistons for brake pad renewal. I'm not sure if VCDS can do that.
> 
> ...


Interesting, so it might still be wheels off territory then!


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Hmm, good news then bad news! Unbelievably after three days of 'discussion' a technician was finally dispatched to my house. He asked me to give it another go and it clanked and then released when I gave it moderate revs!! He said it was rust on the discs because I live half a mile from the sea!! I said Audi hubs all rust and I didn't think my location was the issue. I felt embarrassed but he told me to take it for a drive to clear any residue and all should be ok. Alas, when I drove it down the road and braked there was a horrible clunking. I can only assume that forcing the pads to release from the discs has caused damage to the callipers or one of the pads. So, up to the dealers it will go but at least I should be able to drive it there myself if I am careful!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Hmmm, so if you live near the sea, kind of inevitable on an island, maybe you shouldn't own a TT?

If the pads were stuck (rusted) to the discs then any damage is possibly only to the face of the pad(s).

I reckon that the clunking is the spot on the disc where the pad rusted to it, passing the pad at every wheel revolution, so the frequency of clunks should vary with speed. These things often sound much worse than they are.

When you drive the car to the dealer, it may be an idea to take the long way round and use the brakes as much as possible to try to clean up the discs and the pad faces. It's a shame that you can't left foot brake while keeping some throttle on as that would make the process quicker and easier.

I hope things work out OK for you. Audi seem to have dragged their feet so far.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, I believe if you take foot off throttle, gently apply brake & then apply throttle, you should be able to left foot brake.
Otherway round & brake will kill throttle.
Happy to be proved wrong
Hoggy.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

brittan said:


> Hmmm, so if you live near the sea, kind of inevitable on an island, maybe you shouldn't own a TT?
> 
> If the pads were stuck (rusted) to the discs then any damage is possibly only to the face of the pad(s).
> 
> ...


Just to clarify, clunking is only under braking. Is it possible to have damaged part of the braking system or pads by forcing the pads to release from the disc?


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

35mphspeedlimit said:


> Just to clarify, clunking is only under braking.


If that clunking decreases in frequency as your speed drops that tends to confirm that it's the rust spot/area on the disc.

I would still suggest taking the long way to the dealer and using the brakes - gently to start with and then harder as the clunking (hopefully) gradually goes away.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

brittan said:


> 35mphspeedlimit said:
> 
> 
> > Just to clarify, clunking is only under braking.
> ...


You, sir, are a gent. Your advice over the past few days has been extremely helpful. After a three mile drive early this morning involving a lot of braking action the noise has now completely gone and the car appears to be back to normal. Thanks again.


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Excellent! A good result in the end. It's odd that the pads would weld themselves so firmly to the discs; and half a mile from the sea is plenty to avoid most of the salt air.

At least you are spared taking the car to the dealer!

If your parking place is flat(ish), you could try just leaving the gearbox in Park and the handbrake off. That may help prevent the rear pads sticking again.


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## Blade Runner (Feb 16, 2018)

35mphspeedlimit said:


> brittan said:
> 
> 
> > 35mphspeedlimit said:
> ...


Good result! Haven't heard of this type of thing happening with disc brakes before, which is I guess why you also suspected something more complicated. This 'brakes sticking' thing happens "all the time" in the winter with my partners VW Up!, but she has drum brakes on the rear  . We always carry a rubber hammer in the car to knock the rust loose if its been parked up for a few days! Spoils an otherwise very nice little car.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Only being able to select reverse gear in trying to move the car probably also didn't help (note to self never to park close up to my gable wall ever again)!! The rusty hub cabs issue really annoys me on TTs but I guess I can't blame it for the brakes issue! Never experienced this problem before in 35 years of VAG ownership!


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Electronic hand brake & parked it a tight spot made it worse but most rear pads with open wheels rust to the disc if left out in the weather & usually clunk as they release when driven off.
Without the hand brake On warning & being able to drive away, other than the clunk you probably wouldn't have known any difference.
Another modern "convenience" that turns into an inconvenience.
Hoggy.


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## 35mphspeedlimit (Sep 25, 2010)

Hoggy said:


> Electronic hand brake & parked it a tight spot made it worse but most rear pads with open wheels rust to the disc if left out in the weather & usually clunk as they release when driven off.
> Without the hand brake On warning & being able to drive away, other than the clunk you probably wouldn't have known any difference.
> Another modern "convenience" that turns into an inconvenience.
> Hoggy.


I live and learn Hoggy. My parking style has changed already!!


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

Hoggy said:


> Electronic hand brake & parked it a tight spot made it worse but most rear pads with open wheels rust to the disc if left out in the weather & usually clunk as they release when driven off.
> Without the hand brake On warning & being able to drive away, other than the clunk you probably wouldn't have known any difference.
> Another modern "convenience" that turns into an inconvenience.
> Hoggy.


+1 to that.
I'm not a fan of drifting so the complaint that ppl often make when comparing TT and say, BMW 2-series does not apply to me. What I do not like about electronic brakes however is their 0/1 nature. I always pull the hand brake when parked and never rely on gearbox, but when parking on flat surface I tend to pull it just slightly - 1, 2 clicks not all the way. Enough to secure the car, while saving me the issues one may have after parking for longer time or after rain/snow/salt exposure.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi WL80, I'd never rely on an electronic or manual handbrake & always leave a manual box in gear.
Brake discs cool down & can lose grip on pads if handbrake is only applied lightly causing car to roll away.
Hoggy.


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## WL80 (Jul 10, 2018)

Maybe I did not express myself in an accurate way - I also use gearbox, but I do not rely solely on it. I do both - hand bake and gearbox. In seldom cases of a brutal slope, I also turn the wheel and rest it against the curb to have 3rd support. I know - a bit of paranoia here 
My point was that 1: I see waay to often people leaving the manual gearboxes on P as the only parking brake. 2: manual brake allows softer operation, saving you from the stuck pad/disk issue


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