# A Red/Brushed Steel/Anthracite Brown thread



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Cos of the site format all in one forum.
It seems I may as well do a "build thread" and any extraneous specific topics or queries ,can do separately.
Right now after near 2 weeks of ownership its like this:









03 (actually a mid 02) 89k. cost 3500 or so.
Service done. everything within service specs. centre dash is just cmas tree lights .service cost lil over 200 including haldex oil n filter change

Mods so far 
Unusual tyre on spacesaver wheel :lol: .. covered elsewhere.

New mods,already paid for..

Spacer/adapters for 20" wheels 70 quid..pics to follow.

full coilover set 230 quid pics to follow.(fitting 80)









Full HID lighting 4300k blue white ,probably in the next week or 2 cost around 200 (at least thats what the meg 3 cost.

Engine/perf mods ..perhaps a 250-260 bhp trip up if I feel the engine isnt tired.









and so on.
edit : latest and probably  final look


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## J3SHF (Jun 25, 2014)

What coilovers did you get for £230?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

TA Technix .They seem to be around the same price as H+R 25mm lower springs alone ,or double the price of PI springs , or half the price of more well known height only adjustable coilovers 

I hope they send the right parts!
viewtopic.php?t=273095&p=2280331


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## TimAttard (May 17, 2014)

20" rims?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

TimAttard said:


> 20" rims?


Yeh,its not like I have to buy them ..you can see one on the back of the megane above.
Thing is the bolt pattern is wrong..but since the offset is high , i would have needed spacers for testing anyway.
So maybe 1" adapters will work out ok.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Hmm maybe these 20" wheels make the rear stance too high










Oops nm its probably these axle stands ..still waitin on spacers etc ..time for a lil under body clean  hammeriteness


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ok so now the thread is goin a bit green .Definitely better than flaky rust.
You could say the suspension is ready to "get angry" when I bolt on some big 20" wheels..huh?
Incredible hulk..green .. :roll: :mrgreen: plz yerselves.

Actually its cos i Had a big can of green hammerite knocking around.

The 17's with tyres weigh around 44lb each. 20's with spacers ,Id estimate around 56lb so weel see.


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## J3SHF (Jun 25, 2014)

Get yourself a tin of hammerite chap and you can be all black in no time at all.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

J3SHF said:


> Get yourself a tin of hammerite chap and you can be all black in no time at all.


Your "before" looks a lot better than mine would have been :lol:

Springs n dampers.waste of time for me to paint as 
1.got this "cheap as chips" coilover setup otw n 
2.the n/s rear damper/shock is leaking oil .
Not to be a pia ,but does the 180 have solid rear discs? I cant tell for sure n when i hit photobucket I get addon images .
edit :nm I got a normal link.I see they are solid,edges of mine are flaky n rusty anway and since ventilated,might cost a lot more to replace for v little difference ..maybe I should have gone for that 350z after all.nah 3 times the road tax,Im still good 

Honestly ..If Id had a tin of peuce hammerite spare Id have used that.Its just I have the car up on stands at the rear atm.Looks like the same point as you have used..the rubber bungs?
Since the car is up,I thought,"go for it" on wire brushing and painting.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Coilovers arrived.(butnot fitted)

Fitted one 20 in wheel with 1" adapter spacer, might be ok withthe 25-30 mm lowering


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

Sorry not my cup of tea 20" looks way to big :?

Paul


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Perhaps..perhaps not 
see what we end up with on the coilovers . Pics are of standard springs.. ie the early 2000's full height.
Also those are 235/35/20 tyres .. make the rear another 18 mm higher ..or so :0


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Heres 4 wheels sort of fitted.
Consider :

The suspension is pre facelift

1.Rear tyre size makes ride height 17mm higher

2. front tyre size makes ride height 14 mm higher.

total et on front is 13mm atm has to be corrected to 17 mm tomorrow.

Coilovers to be fitted on Tue.. and I will need the suspension height variation










One good thing about bright red (and no wet weather)..the car hasnt been washed in 2 weeks/600 miles ,it has plenty of fly adornments,nicks and is badly in need of detailing..but hey you cant really tell at a distance !

Yes the coilovers were 225  UK..actually if you check ebay ,cheapest on there..for 8N 225 quattro its 210 but free p+p to UK

Weird thing is for me..they were dispatched from Colchester to Belgium, then posted?freighted to Ireland! Uk buyers..they
probably skip the belgium step!
bad old movie pun coming here.
I think I bought them on a Tue.."If its Tuesday, it must be Belgium " [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Good luck with your build thread.
Hopefully buying on the cheap side doesn't compromise quality.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

V6RUL said:


> Good luck with your build thread.
> Hopefully buying on the cheap side doesn't compromise quality.
> Steve


Thx Steve,
Cant test it cheaper afaik.If I had the already lowered post facelift suspension..or maybe one that had no leaking dampers,could chance the 200 quid springs alone option ,but as it is "love the one your with"


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## thirtytwopence (Oct 11, 2013)

Once lowered I think it's going to look great on the 20s.
I ran TA Technix on my first Golf, they weren't pleasant! 
Hope you enjoy them more


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

3TT3 said:


> V6RUL said:
> 
> 
> > Good luck with your build thread.
> ...


Were lucky that we have quite a few suppliers of various levels of the same products and you pay your money and take your choice. When options are limited you just have to take what you can get.
Some have tried with the 20s on and it depends on the quality of your roads as comfort and buckled wheels may play a part in your experiance.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Holy Jeebus..its pink!
This is not the colour I was expecting with a night pic !.
I better put it down to a coating of dew..yeh thas it  
Ill be able to delete it right :lol:

Anyway these are fully fitted et corrected BUT definitely pre coilover pics.
235/35 rear 225/35 front. Rubbing..yes rear outside corner edge of front tyre rubs on a "rib" of the wheelarch liner at full lock.
Thatll need to be corrected.
Also the ride height is as previously mentioned.. 15-20 mm higher front to rear.
Thats 35-40 mm higher than post facelift models!.

Ill probably be spending all of tomorrow evening with my c spanners..trying to get at least a 30-40mm drop,with clearance.
Ride etc atm not much different to 17's , then again 45-35 isnt a huge tyre profile diff.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Coilovers fitted...lil more expensive than I thought to fit..like 125,but the "2 year guarantee" requires pro fitting..

Ill preface the rest by saying.My 20" wheels have oversize tyres 35 instead of 30 profile..reasons dont matter but in terms of ride height difference to normal,its the tyres only that make the front 14mm higher and the rear 17mm higher.
Also fills the arches by that amount all round.

Ill talk in terms of top of the wheelarch to wheelhub centre distance.

1st pic .Car "taken from the garage and parked"









Not too bad you might think but the rear was too low
a.I dont like wheelarch below tyre edge drops personally 
b.The tyre edge was getting chewed on light loads/corners

Front seems ok for now.

The situation, Prior to coilover fitting
Arch to wheel centre was 365 mm at front and rear
In the pic :
arch to centre rear hub distance was 325-330mm
arch to centre front hub distance was 340 mm.

Rear had to be changed:
This pic is the rear ,as I got it.full drop









In this pic,I dialed out the 325-330 mm distance and made it 345 approx









By now,some of you may have guessed that this particular coilover kit will only allow a maximum 10-15 mm drop compared to a facelift MK1 at the rear (pre facelift 35-40 mm max).

So now.. non rubby at the rear .. 
In terms of overall ground clearance:
rear is 345 + 17(tyre).. so approximately the same ride height as when I got the car :lol: 
Front atm is 340 +14 tyre,so maybe 5-10 mm below original ride height.

Dont forget the wheelarches are now filled by the extra tyre width all round.

The front I havent even looked at adjusting.
The actual ride /crispness seems better.. well it would do with some brand new suspension components 

Ill see after thing settle: 
Some hopefully not too brilliant pink !  ,night pics (bit fuzzy  )


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Good write.
The 20s dont look that big, but that maybe down to wheel style.
It will be interesting to see how you get on with the fronts and arch liner clearance..
Will also be interesting to hear if you are having any issues with tram lining whilst driving.
You are a brave man experimenting with different profiles as it will be costly if you have to change for a more conventional size to keep the OEM rolling radius.
Steve


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## J3SHF (Jun 25, 2014)

V6RUL said:


> Good write.
> The 20s dont look that big, but that maybe down to wheel style.
> It will be interesting to see how you get on with the fronts and arch liner clearance..
> Will also be interesting to hear if you are having any issues with tram lining whilst driving.
> ...


They are too big however I agree with the above, they don't look as over sized as I was imagining they would be.

Good for you for sticking to getting them on though :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

divided opinions
Still it goes well..even if not completely height set yet.
Hey n the good news for anyone thinking of putting on 21 " wheels n tyres is they will fit with 30 profile .Theyre very expensive tho! :lol: 
I like em ..for the price and theoretically if Id purchased a good nick facelift mk1 ,might not have needed coilovers at all!
Total outlay would then have been 70 quid for the adapter spacers.
Unlikely itd be exactly right tho.
Ride n handling is just fine so far.There is one point(in the turning circle) where I hear a lil grab/rub on the front and there is also one particular type of bumpwhere the front suspension gets caught and you get a lil crash,but overall so far nb.
Ill adjust front a bit at the weekend.

The haldex /diff grinding at low speed /full lock seems to be gone..maybe it was goin anyway after the haldex n its filter change.

Another big outlay today..halfords brilliant red touch up bottle..10 quid !


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Monday Ill post final (workable clearance) thoughts n pics
Rear is fine natch.. its the front wheelarch liner(rear of) and to a certain extent the coilover height, that need some final adjustments.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Its looking like
MK1 (facelift) suspension height all round or marginally over..say 340-345 mm will provide no rub clearance .. except for the front.
The rear part of the front wheelarch liner ive had to cut to get a few mm at full lock low speed.
This isnt to do with the suspension height per se, its more to do with the extra 14 mm of wheel and tyre radius.

20 mm front spacers/adapters and I might have gotten away with no liner cutting.
As it is with 25 mm the slight extra poke causes a rub with no cutting.

so the car is now in and around 10mm lower in ride height than when I bought it at the front and about 5 mm lower in ride height at the rear 

In terms of "wheelarch filling" its 35 mm lower at the front and 40mm lower at the rear..than when I bought it.
20-25 mm suspension drop all round and 14-15 mm radius increase at the front and 17-18 mm radius increase at the rear.
et is now 17 mm front and 17 mm rear, compared to the original fitment 32.

Ill do a few daylight pics tomorrow.
Oh good no time limit on post edits.

Heres some "final" pics

Adjustments not pictured:
cutting the heads of the original wheelbolts by 5 mm ,cutting the studs of the spacer/adapters by 3mm to provide depth for the tuner nut internal sockets (all with angle grinder).
Cutting the rear of the front wheelarch liners and filling with mastic .I can post pics of that if anyone is interested.

Final pics give no rubbing( with 2 people up). Full load ,I cant say,also with bedding in of coilovers,in 500 miles or so,I may have to get the C spanners out again.

Right now,strangely enough the general ride/handling etc is much better than with the original 17's :lol: .
Of course this may have a lot to do with a complete spring/damper change,old rubbers on roll bars etc tightening up for awhile at least n so on.
I havent tried the 17's on since coilovers were fitted.

Front suspension is no longer being "caught out" on rapid road profile changes.This may be due to the springs being compressed more(with adjustment) or just "bedding in".

As you can see ,the car isnt slammed.In terms of wheelarch clearance its pretty low but actual ride height is somewhere between MK1 prefacelift and MK1 facelift.

As an aside ..in general if you decrease the et/increase poke,its better to increase twd ,total wheel wheel diameter ,so Im covered there!.
Speedometer is now almost spot on ,so thats good.
Disadvantages :
cos of the stud nature of the adapters ,I cant use them as spacers for the original wheels.
High speed , I cant tell as yet if there is imbalance, but the wheel and tyre combo is actually quieter on mway cruising than what was on it.
The wheels dominate the car,cos of its short length .Then again if you check the latest 911 ,which isnt a long car either ,the 20" wheels could be said to dominate it also.
The 911 wheel style is actually very similar to these altho with lightweight titanium hubs n all sorts of 5 grand goodies.

There is absolutely no more,possible diff /haldex grinding at full lock low speed anymore?.
Whether thats due to oil n filter change(tho it was still there a little aftr service,with 17's on) or 20" n profile change has taken up the slack..dunno.

Anyway heres last pics n now on to..lets see a working centre dash display will be nice..oh and ran out of fuel with gauge reading 1/4.Funtimes.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

There is a "new" bit .  . I just edited the last post..perhaps a new post is better !


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ive seen some pic posts today where 235/35/19 look ginormous,to me at least.

I think Ill persist with the 20's.itll be cheaper whatever way you look at it than goin for 19's or 18's

Just some advice.
1.225/35/20 is the max that will fit at the front and you will need to get your et right and its not a q of the lowering height ,its the outside edge of the tyre at full lock

2.Ive read here that you can use 15mm spacer front and 20mm rear.Since I had to get spacer adapters anyway..the cheapest available were 4 x 25mm ones.
Since the20" alloys in the pics above are et 42 and the original 17's are et 32 that seemed to me to indicate that Id be running "15 mm spacer front, and 15 mm spacer rear" , but the general 15/20 quote may be on an original et of 35 mm.

Yeh its that tight 

The tight point horizontal clearance on 225/45/17 et 32 goes down to around 17 mm.On et 32 with a 225/35/20,Id have around 3mm to spare .
As it is with 17mm et which pushes the wheel a bit more towards the inner front wheelwell than 32 mm et on full lock..theres 2 mm or so of body underseal to be shaved off by the tyre at full lock.

Solns:
a:get 20mm front spacers..about 100 quid.
b:wait for the wear to rub thru the underbody sealant..its a small amount n will stop.
c.go for 225/30/20 or 235/30/20 
Interesting problem for a few mm

nb I did cut away a lumpy protrusion on the plastic wheelarch liner protecting a seam weld,but that is no longer the prob.
Maybe with winter coming the tyres will no longer expand as much  .
In case it isnt clear , its not a height problem cos rubbing can be eliminated above the narrow point of the inner wheelwell since it actually widens further up.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

To wrap or not to wrap 

As mentioned elsewbere my spot repairs on scratches etc on the bonnet have ended up "spotty".

I could get it resprayed but for now Ive done it in a sheet of wrap I had lying around.

Wot you think .. whole car in wrap or respray?

These pics are at night /dusk in a garage with mainly artificial light.
Colour goes from a dark blue thru purple to red n then bronze.depending on viewing angle.
In rl thru about 70% of the view its a blue purple .

Ill include some pics of my other car partially wrapped to give you an idea of daylight looks.























Megane with same wrap.nb the side strips are in the same wrap also


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## Ian_W (Oct 19, 2008)

That's a no from me :?


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

:?

Paul


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ian_W said:


> That's a no from me :?


Heh k..just to be sure.. I mean either wrap the whole car or leave it standard brilliant red?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Well no worries.
For example.a total respray.. if I was interested in such ,would cost around £1200.
Like i said before , I like the red.
However total car.. done in the pictured wrap.. would cost around £150(not including my labour).

Since I cant blend or paint to save my life.. but can prepare a surface.. and wrap.. I may still cover the TT.
Ill see how it looks in the daylight.
The wrap does last 3 years at least..and applying to paintwork is an awfull lot easier than textured plastic!






























btw this is nothing like "Jays TT" some 10 grand cost purple flip flop paint job thing!,which you can find on googling.
Its matte  and doesnt have the purple to blue green metallic of Jay's.
Its dark blue/purple/red bronze matte metallic.

There is a red to bronze only variation,which you might think would be great,but Ive tried it and it isnt .. the red goes kinda pink and the bronze goes rapidly to a kind of yellow..just my opinion.
I have seen a "candy apple red TT.. I dont think it works.
Still for 100..maybe even 200 + time and the fact that wrap comes off like ..very easily if you dont like it.
I think Ill go for it.

btw I have tried loads of different wraps.
Aside from chameleon all the plain colours look.not so good imo,just plasticky.. black 3d or 4d is ok.
Gold and chrome are a btrd to apply


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Here is my wrap which shows blues and purples.
It used to show greens as well but they have faded out over time..

Note the headlight inserts that match the wrap.
Mine has been on for 3 years and could do with some panels replacing at the front due to stone chips.
My wrap is laid and is not put on under tension as this would distort the colour in the flip.

Depending on your skill level and cast thickness problem areas will be wing mirrors and roof rails, I've painted my roof rails satin black and my wing mirrors are aftermarket Carbon Fibre.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

V6RUL said:


> Here is my wrap which shows blues and purples.
> It used to show greens as well but they have faded out over time..
> 
> Note the headlight inserts that match the wrap.
> ...


Well first,thas a real nice/labour of love machine .Ie wot youve put into it Im sure outweighs its value by a long way?

Gloss /plain wrap must be a real job to maintain.any scratch and well not much you can do about it?
My chrome bits on my other car,they have chips etc,but its just a case of how many nicks do you want before rewrapping 

I looked thru your build thread.. to find "where I started wrapping" but couldnt find the sections..Ill now have to go thru the middle part of the 172 pages!.

The bonnet bit I did is fairly flat lay but it wouldnt be as demanding as pure gloss ,still ,how do you do the edges and follow contours without any stretching at all?

Mine is aftermarket cf effect,I wouldnt chance the cost of expensive stuff.

The only reason I put mine on was I suppose the fact that I had it, and my spot repairs on the bonnet were disappointing..mainly cos it had been resprayed at some stage and there is a thick black primer layer just under the surface..and so on.
I can easily peel off the wrap but whats underneath altho shiny and fully painted has obvious blend spots with black leeching thru.

this is kind of an experiment.

enough wrap to do the whole car around 150 Id estimate.. including over amounts to line up the carbon fibre lines correctly.
Bonnet respray.. around 150 Id say.
Trouble is the rest of the paint isnt perfect..some dull overspray bits,roof has a "never cut back appearance" with liitle bits of hairs /dust embedded in.
Sounds orrible but it shines up well at over 4 ft..check it close and you can see the imperfections.

I hoped optimistically,that since it was a solid colour,I could domy own ..back to new cutting and blending,but not working out that way.
Carbon fibre effect is an experiment..and I could "self maintain it". Could even dothe roof n pillars in black a la qs.. but Im not really sure I like that effect :0

Is there a section with "how I did it" in your build thread?.. What did you do with the windscreen and boot and other rubber edges..push the wrap under or butt it up exactly and so on.

Mirror wrapping in chameleoan or regular carbon fibre Ive done before.. you still have to stretch the carbon lines of course.
Whats the procedure on TT,did you have to take the glass out.. etc etc 

Oh yeh daylight pics..:0
For now, it looks .. "poor guy he had to buy a second hand bonnet and is waiting to get it resprayed"

The allover effect would probably be more purple most of the time if the whole car was done but its still very hard to tell ...Id need a side panel.front wing perhaps for certainty as to whether thatd go different enough


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

You won't find a build on my wrap as the car was sent of to a pro shop and returned 4 days later.
Wrap went under rubbers or carefully cut to finish neatly.
Laid wrap doesn't mean that a little tension can't be used when needed, but kept to a minimum.
Heavy Transition curves is where pieces meet each other.
My wrap is an 80 cast and is ok for laying but not thin enough for intricate stuff.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ok. I follow.

This evening I took off the bonnet wrap.

Even in daylight if you took pics at just the right angle you could have,bright metallic red/candy apple,metallic blue,deep bronze ..in pics 

Fact is tho for 80% of the time itd look a matte purple/pink with red bronze highlights in places of course so it wouldnt look all purpley pink 

If..it could be say bronze..or a rich red as the basic colour,with blue highlights etc itd be different.

My 2 year + applications..altho lasting well the chameleon effect begins to fade(I found) as I think you have? so left with a matter basic colour of some type,over time. The wrap comes off like in crinkly bits.. uv degredation I suppose.

All tht wouldnt matter a whole lot if overall colour was good(like yours)

Paintwork thats on it..ill have another go.. but when pitting down, ill have to use the primer that came with the touch up kit to cover this black respray primer,if that makes sense.total pia either way as i think the touch up paint reacts even with the respray paint!,even with 2000 wet n dry..see how it goes n thx for the input and opinions,everyone.


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

I would class my wrap as quite a quality item and ive had a few small panels replaced due to stone damage and the wrap came off in one, once a little heat was applied. Mine is just as glossy as the day it was put on but i dont clean the car too much and the dirt is another layer of protection.
I think if you wrapping your car you need to find acolour that you can live with for a while.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

well you have a good base colour..quality..I dunno overall.
Mine however would be too close to this!

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1- ... o-1946323/


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With now 225/35/20 on the rear too 345 allround seems to be np.
Lower I dunno yet ,have to let it settle but looks ok I think.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Lets see:

Update on done:

1.Spacesaver tyre.aka the wire stickin thru uninflatable tyre replaced with a slightly unusual tyre( dont mention the war).

2.coilovers, 25 mm spacers, 225/35/20 tyres n wheels (alignment due when I settle on a ride height)

3.Full service /pollen replacement ,haldex oil n filter replacement

4.Dashpod remanned

5.drivers side microswitch flora'd.

To do:

1.Check underside thoroughly for more broken underseal/rust

2.Renew rubber bushes/possibly polyurethane

3.d/s rear speaker is blown.. fix needed.

4.front discs n pads

5.Clean up original suspension and lube for storage 

6.Led cree for front small lights + possible HID for dipped after trying front headlamp restoration.

7. Find a position /use for an original 1974 audi 80 push on push off switch (nostalgia aint what it used to be)

8.redo interior lights with red led,there is a certain amount of red anyway :0

9.Redo /repair any underbonnet and underbody components.
I wont be going for a custom underbonnet look.Standard is fine by me.

10.Finally,unless I think of something else in the meantime..go for stage 1 250ish bhp once it seems like everyting else is ok .
Why wait? well cost is one thing but last time I did an engine project,that was all I did.
ie it was a peaky improved engine in a pos car.This time Ill go the other route.


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## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

Good thread, like the way you think things through, look forward to more updates............ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Nice to see your covering the red, its such a common colour these days!!!! even Hoggy's got one, and he is really common.. :-*  [smiley=smash.gif]


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Chameleon wrap(carbon fibre effect) isnt a runner.
as above.
Even in gloss its like ..lady penelope's 6 wheeler rr for 80% of the view time.

Faced with the option of a 200 euro,about 160 quid bonnet respray or 40 quid bonnet rewrap in gloss red which might or might not match..etc etc.

Ive gone for enough wrap for a new colour

1. ordered in 2 segments

a. just enough for a full bonnet wrap.Depending on how I like that. I can return the 1.52mx10m roll of the same or not.

What is this wrap effect/colour then?

Im not tellin :twisted: .It isnt pink!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Made a small c up on the bonnet.Rushin!

a. forgot to heat the garage as its now gettin winter time.

b.forgot my lay a few ins at a time technique,so had to peel half the bonnet 

Im redoing the half that was stuck ,depending on the finish of that,I may have a section left to redo the whole bonnet,if I use the half bonnet piece with backing paper still on elsewhere :lol: .
Im half thinking of leaving the roofrails brilliant red for the moment.
Ill see how it looks.

Brushed steel effect btw,and no it doesnt come wide enough to do the bonnet with brushing lengthwise.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Car is in for rear wheel (front) trailing arm bush replacement(they were fooked).
The guy orderd the audi bits,may end up costing more than the same maker generic ones.

I wasnt gonna go for the superpro rear toe in adjusting ones..at 160 quid a pair,my rear suspension is only at about post facelift height,mebbe 5 mm lower.

the 75 quid complete front and rear discs n pads are fitted,thermostatwill go in when bushes arrive.
So in the meantime my wrapping is at a standstill..except:

I took off the wing mirrors,so have the weekend to do em carefully!
The lack of 3 hands is a prob,but not a terminal one :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ive tried the two tone options,not completely , but.

The trouble with wrap is ,especially a contoured one,is its quite thick.
You need sealer and thena thin pinstripe ;;sealer is needed to help the pinstripe adhere to the "brushed metal" surface.

The version I tried was like a spreading qs effect 

See the pic(shopped) below.
colours would be brilliant red and brushed steel as opposed to black and orange.
The grey and red combo doesnt look too bad to be honest,but all things considered ,including sealing of edges,Im gonna go for total brushed steel
The two tone effect is near as much work as a full wrap!,between aligning the cut lines etc :roll:

Ill post up when the car is "cast from a single lump of steel" :lol:


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Tricky bits are the wheel arch to flat panel transitions as this may lift over time.
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Nps,I just cast my + thinking spell..you are not stressed vinyl! you just think you are..dont make me use a needle to poke an air release hole!
My local chemist:so you really want all this isopropyl alcohol for ,what was it again..vinyl wrapping cleaning and not cos youre a wino?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Just a lil cost update 

Since beginning of Sep.

Initial purchase price 3300

1. Full service with haldex oil n filter change 200

2.refurbished spare wheel(motorbikin)  10

3.Coilovers 230 ,fitting 130 (360 total)

4.Dash repair bba reman 150

5.spacer adapters 70 cutting old bolts own labour,spigot rings 7 (77 tot)

7.wrap 12 m x 1.52m 160 not fully applied yet  (160)

8.Audi coil upgrade (free ,hurrah)

9.Door microswitch repair,self (flora tub) no charge!

10. new front and rear discs n pads 75(drivetec) ,labour to fit em 120 (195 tot)

11. Genuine audi parts:rear bushes 40 ,aerial cap 6,thermostat n housing 30 +fluids 90
Labour for fitting, parts + wheel alignment 150 (240 tot)

Combined total including purchase price, so far = 4692

Prices in sterling

Car has covered around 1000 miles since purchase 

Im not saying this is typical or untypical.cambelt + ancillaries,gearbox n haldex were changed in the 20k miles before purchase.How the ultimate condition of engine and turbo are..not sure.

Theoretically my outlay may decrease over the next 10k miles,per 1000 miles covered (itd be bad news if it didnt :lol: )


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Drivers door prep for wrapping.

There are some youtube vids for audi tt,but theyre on already prepped areas and are time lapse!.

1. wing mirror remove n wrap (you tube vid for removal 



 )

wrapping get upper curve and front ok, then have overlaps on lower edge or towards inside.Seal off with edge sealer or clear nail varnish.

2.exterior door lock and handle (how to's on here or google) .Leaving the handle wrap for now 

3. front of panel fill any nicks /cuts with touch up paint.Tar spots- neat petrol on a rag n wash off fast wi soapy water.
Clean all around and behind door edge with wet cloth 70/30 alcohol n water.
Theres a lot of black crap/gunge under the rubber edges. Upper door rubber end caps you can remove .. dont bother with exterior sealing strip ,looks alike a pain to get off and easy to break clips.
Alcohol wipes(from a chemist) are handy for final edge cleaning.Use a kitchen knife to push them onder the rubber around door edge as you wipe along.

4.3m primer round the back edges... Im not putting on any right now cosif you dont get the lay right first time you cant lift it off.
If I do get a lil lift later ill apply some and retack at the trouble spots.

Oh yeh tt sill /scuff plate had lifted at the back.I lifted it a bit more,cleaned it jammed it in at the back and then a lil superglue at the area about 5in from the end that was bending upward.
Also raised the door striker catch 1 ridge as the bottom of the door seemed to be contacting at the rear.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Having seen the ebay link in another thread of a semi two tone black n red.wing mirrors rear spoiler,front n back lower red:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-AUDI-TT- ... 0097518303

Im edging away from any red bits left 

The fact that the car has been totally resprayed at some stage,means there is lacquer or overspray on nearly every bit of rubber edging fuel flap rubber ,window edge rubber,even door handle backing rubber!.pia to clean.

So onward n upward! 

Lower wing mirror lap I can live with as long as the front surface is ok .Lower edge of c pillar/window join looks orrible..n its funny the red didnt look too bad from 3 or 4 feet.
Total car for 200 (wrap cost only) , should still be doable.

extras:
Primer for security at certain areas,tenner.
Clear nail varnish for edge sealing 5-6 or rob yer gf's/wife's
Proper squeeges 2-3 each.cutters..4-5.
Isopropyl alcohol around 15.Hey you can use the leftovers for extra cmas cheer in yer booze! :lol: 
Meths is much cheaper,but isnt as pure,can leave slight residue..+ also add that to your cmas booze n you'll go blind n maybe die.
Heatgun/hairdryer, gf/wife again.."hey who's been at my stuff !"  20 quid.
Sandpaper,plastic cleaning pads.. n so on another tenner.
Hours of prep time and labour fun?..incalculable 

Trouble is , it looks a bit "tears of a clown" with patches done. Only 50-60% done.
Still better to have it right instead of ok from a distance.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Going slowly enough.
Then again I dont want something that peels off as soon as it gets v cold or very hot.
+ bits like the fuel cap cover.
Clean alloy bolts
Sand away lacquer edge from respray.
Clean respray lacquer off fuel cap cover rubber seal.
Clean cover,gunge from underside at fuel inlet joint.
Apply 3m 94 primer at cover surround.
Seal fuel cap cover wrap edges with cellulose seal.
Apply loctite to flap cable retention screws.
Lubricate rubber seal with soap n water  n so on.


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

Coming along nicely matey and sounds like your doing a great job. looking forward to seeing pics once finished 8)

Paul


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

tripping along 

Its really important with brushed wrap at least to align the "grain".
I dunno if you can make it out here but door was wrapped separately.The rear 1/4 panel and bit over windows is all one piece and its important to maintain line continuity.
The door brush lines are very slightly off ..nothing youd notice, but a few degrees more and the bodywork would look sectional.
The piece on the rear bumper ,d/s isnt aligned correctly and I Just put it on for testing.

Im still considering "red highlights", just not sure where to put them.

Perhaps the lower edge all round .ie on the front the bit below the lowest point of the intake grilles.
Sides.maybe where the rough underbody paintwork starts on the sills?

When removing body/wheelarch holding screws/grommets: If the screws/twist rivets have stripped threads or wont come out.Use a screwdriver under the screwhead edge to gently prise it out while twisting,or narrow pliers under the screw head and lever up while turning.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Not much progress since the above.
d/s front "mudguard" is done and front section is removed.
On the 8th I got what turns out to be "shingles".
. Not as bad as I imagined.Very painfull, but I was imagining the main circulation pump(mine) was otw out! phew.
Anyway the car is on front stands atm,Keeps the mileage down .
Passed Nct(MoT) on the 6th and probably done 10 miles since then.
Good job I have a "sensible car" as an alternative


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

In adjunct to my arb post heres a pic of my circa 1955 gauge (it was my Dad's) showing my front arb diameter at 20 mm an a lil bit .
Also some front wrapping.I think Im gonna need more air holes for engine cooling n stuff .. :roll:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Getting there :lol:

Having the front off and up on stands , I decided to do a few extra bits like bush replacement etc.

Ive semi removed the front grille surround cut line using sealer,then wrapped over.
Sprayed the lower grilles black,but I did spray the bottom area of the centre grille red,so the height of black grille is the same all the way across..if that makes sense.
Not sure whether to leave it or not.
Full red side sills are too high I think.
Ill try wrapping just down to the edge where the underseal thick paint is.
That would leave about 2 in of red on the sills.
Easy enough to cover over if it still doesnt look right.

Course the back and passenger side still have to be done!
I may/may not leave some red hilight back there.Spoiler maybe or exhaust diffuser.


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## Donay (Sep 30, 2013)

Paulj100 said:


> Sorry not my cup of tea 20" looks way to big :?
> 
> that was mine first thought on opening up this thread.It like spending a bunch of bucks to lower it and more bucks for wheels just to end up where you started from? Sorry if I sound critical but way to big for the car for me
> 
> Paul


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Donay said:


> Paulj100 said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry not my cup of tea 20" looks way to big :?
> ...


I think you ended up quoting all your post as Paul's but thx for the input 

The wheels were already lying around so to speak 

With a now effective et of 22 instead of 17 there is clearance all round for 225/35/20 and 340mm wheel centre to arch height,(even at the rear of the front wheelwell on full lock,cos of the reduced poke)hurrah .
*Then again cos of tyre height :the actual ride height/ground clearance is about the same as a post facelift model
Conversely the wheelarch allround is filled to the extent of a 325 mm wheelcentre to top of wheelarch height with "normal tyres" ,without the hat pulled down over yer ears look.
The leaving of "red highlights" is a work in progress,as to whether Ill do it or not.
If the sill doesnt look right with a red bottom edge,its easy to remove the red on the front grille.. and then ..more than likely no red on the rear either,cos there would be no continuation.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Some coming together 

20 mm spacer adapters are now fitted all round.
Btw for handling suspension geometry and stuff,7-10mm outside of the mean et is the usual recommended .15 mm at the max.

Taking 35 mm et as a mean on the TT,I dunno how that relates to spacer recommendations with standard TT wheels?
I dont mean wheel/tyre widths,just the offset.

Anyway with 42 mm et 20" and the 20mm adapters its ok for 335-340 mm wheelarch to wheelcentre and 225/35/20 on 7.5 in wheelwidth with no rubbing.
Effective ride height is about the same as a postfacelift,effective tyre to wheelarch gap(at the top) and arch clearance is around the same as a post facelift tt lowered by 15 mm. :roll: etc.

The wrap, as pointed out before,bonnet has to be laid with the "grain" going across the car cos of sheeting width.
Correction is possible by doing the bonnet in 3 sections(like lamborghini brushed wrapos on google :lol: ) .
You can see in the pics.

The colour..I could have gone for brilliant red wrap just for the bonnet alone or bonnet,roof and one side for less than the cost of a decent bonnet respray.
The red as I mentioned before is I think pretty good,but to me at least still lends an air of semi cute mini ferrari.
I was originally looking for a gloss black TT,but I think the red looks as good/better
Brushed wrap(not matte black)shiny sometimes,dull grey othertimes,depending on light adds a different dimension.

Very soon Ill get all the passenger side done then rear end!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

:lol: 
I had been considering something along the lines of our slightly larger "brother" car paintjob

https://ausomeawestin.wordpress.com/201 ... sic-value/

Then again even if it can do 267 mph,the paint job wouldnt be everyones taste.

Wha do I mean "brother car".  well it does have haldex transmission :wink:

8j wheels of the same style as above(mine,not the veyron) are otw 250 for 4.Thas incentive to hit the cold garage turn on the heater n finish the wrap this weekend eh?..maybe, if I forget to beer stock the fridge!


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## The Blue Bandit (Sep 22, 2011)

... I was really undecided on this at the halfway stage (you can read that as I didn't really like it! :lol: ) ... it's just I think that Misano is such a lovely colour... but as it's coming together and nearing completion it's definitely winning me over ...
I think the brushed finish is really working well together with the wheels ... I'm looking forward to seeing it finished and some decent photographs of it now!

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

ta,
Well I do have "more progress" shots but might as well wait till its all done.
Also have to cut 25 mm off the new bolts..long story but better to have 40x25 mm bolts instead of a mixture, oh and 2 tyres still have to show up fri or mon.


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## HeroicBroccoli (Jan 19, 2015)

Fancy wrapping mine when you're done 

I actually really like it with the red lines left along the sils.


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## kettle (Oct 12, 2009)

Think you need to change the title of the thread... It's not red anymore!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ive got a prob completing my own let alone anyone else's.
SweatysTT posted that he wraps as a full time job.! prices seem reasonable.
As a note on that when I ordered my 8j wheels, euro to pound exchange was about 75p to the euro,when I got the brake discs etc it was more like 82p.Today its 72 p to a euro Sheesh I should have invested in sterling when I had the chance.
"beware of greeks bearing gifts".
Not all their fault a course but gl to you guys who stayed out of the euro.

Thread title change  yeh perhaps


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Some pics n opinion seeking
Ive decided to go full grey/steel after lots of experiments.A TT isnt a veyron ss 

Ok bonnet..Is it worth rewrapping to try and match up the brush lines wi the sides.
Would mean 3 sections n probly pinstripe at the join.
Of the 3 colours Ive tried in pinstripe silver looks the best.









This is one of the 8j 45mm offset wheels.The fact that its 5 hole instead of 10 probly looks more pro.
You can see some of the red grey experiments.









This is to give some idea of experiments.
Id been hoping to extend the rear light cluster "redness " across the width of the rear with the lower edge of the spoiler as a cutoff point,if you follow me or maybe the lower rear all in red .
I dont think its gonna work.

Full wrap, the lower edge of the hatch/bootlid,the grain wont match with the part below that.I suppose itll be okish .
The red rear lightclusters now gonna need full dark tint film or no?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Still only 85% done :lol: ,but at least all of the sides ,mirrors n door handles are done (in solid colour).
My final "will leaving some of the decent red paintwork showing work?" experiment is in progress .
Its gonna be ,extending the red of the rearlamps across the full width of the car.
Im sure you know what I mean.Ill be sort of using the lower edge of the spoiler and most likely the lower edge of the number plate ,if I shift it up a litle,as the boundary lines.
An added bonus ,if it looks ok would be not having to get my fishing line out to debadge the rear! :lol:


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## bbbenzal (Nov 18, 2014)

When you wrap your motor........do you have to declare colour change to dvla

Matt


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## cherie (Oct 23, 2014)

bbbenzal said:


> When you wrap your motor........do you have to declare colour change to dvla
> 
> Matt


You never used to, but you do now.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ahh that'd be in the land of HM QE2 :lol: 
\
UK stuff..I dunno for sure but I have seen a lot f threads about.. wrap is just stickers.. 75% stickers dont matter .vinyl isnt a permanent colour change as it isnt paint etc etc.

For my NCT/MOT in January the guys mmmned n stuff about the wrap but response was .. we dont give a toss what colour it appears to be..
Irish regs.. bit of a grey area .. see wot I did there 
In essence Ill chance it for now 
Vive la difference/hope you guys give the 2 fingers to the EU


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

cc retrofit complete and then plug in WAKmapped ecu,which he has already activated the cc on,tomorrow sometime,cant really delay it longer!.
Whole car is wrapped now except for ps door handle and wing mirror stanchion. Oh and the underside of the spoiler!

The thing is.. what will I do then !,might have to actually drive it more.
There wont be much to add on here either.

Like : today I thread added liquid gauge..yawn.. seen it :lol: .Cleaned out another spider nest area .meh.

Ill do some "finished for now" pics sometime this month I guess..or maybe some kind of modest vid with "fanfare for the common man" soundtrack :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As is atm.
Im leaving the passenger side cos it reminds me theres more to do! yeh right

Now that its capable of sub 6 second 0-60 and 160 mph(theoretically :lol: ) maybe I should leave the wing mirror off for streamlining 

Notice the "grain lines" of the vinyl when wet ,not the easiest to match up.

Rear spoiler,leave the red underneath or not?
Probably not

edit:
Some thoughts and faults.
If the paint had been perfect or near enough I wouldnt have wrapped,but Im glad I went for the "steel brushed "
Its really grey of course,with the other choices being silver or black in that effect.
Matte wrap would be easier to put on(for alignment) but it even shows finger smudges.

Application: I should have primered any concave surfaces like the wheelarches its much more difficult to correct later with pinholing and hi heat,but nm 
The bonnet ,I may recover tho it would be hard to do to get the grain to angle back a bit.

Application edit:If YOU are going to wrap/rewrap a previously repainted car,you could have some probs ,unless you get new rubber surrounds and so on.
Reasons being: the overspray.Even a little on rubber you cant really clean it off without damaging the rubber.
Whats that do?..You will have a line on the rubber of the previous colour you can probably see it in some of my pics.
You can paint the rubber with black but its time consuming.
A more serious issue is : You want the wrap under the rubber at the edges,If the rubber is painted and you pull it away,there is a near razor sharp edge left on the rubber, which can cut into the wrap very easily,and you dont want that.

One of the main things I like about the grey/steel effect is that it looks "serious intent".
Sometimes, sure with a bright sunlight dry day(cos of the metal particles embedded in the vinyl) it can look quite shiny metallic ,n so on..it varies a lot.

On a wet dull day tho it looks kinda "mean",sort of this guy couldnt be bothered to polish his car and yet it looks like it can go..semi interceptor.
I do have expensive 50 quid for a small tub polish btw 
Black wheels then and blacken the audi rings- Nah ..maybe Ill try plastidip black on the wheels someday.Easy to peel off 
Cos theyre kinda large and the tyres are oversize,I think they need to be "in your face".

Ill post up if theres any significant change

Oh look a minor road imperfection


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Kinda finished :lol:

More to do, that most wouldnt be interested in.
Basic appearance is as is
Sunnier pics:























Things still to do:
Perf is covered by Wak's remap
Ill have to maintain the perf,probably wirh some vcds analysis,,a lil Wak box.
Whether Ill go full Wakbox or not,dunno.

I may go 245/30/20 on the rear instead of 235/35/20 when one of the tyre sets wear out.
I do have the 8 wheels of a similar size on the 2 different cars.One set will be gone by the end of the summer.

The speedo is now accurate within a mph at 100 mph, so thats covered.

Seat leather wear..Ill have to examine the threads a bit more,pity you cant easily swop passenger to d/s 

The underside is still missing a front engine undertray.
I can get a 45 quid one np,but as I'm running at postfacelift ride height approx,on summer wheels at least...will it just get warmer under there with an undertray on.

I like the TT"its a look"interior, except for the waste of space heated seats dials,might get some digital readout ,somethings to replace those.

There may be a few more cosmetic,interior fixups, and I dont atm see a need for v6 exterior addons.extended spoiler might even reduce top speed?

Itd be fun/interesting to get the "prehistoric" phase 1 mobile phone kit working.. 

Underbonnet.. Id like a its all good,properly greased,look.I dont care much about the appearance.
My cbt tube, at least thats what I think it is was a lil "soft", probably from all the oil crud over 90k miles.
but np it wasnt cracked.
Is there anything that definitely needs to be investigated at 90k,aside from the prev stuff in thread?


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

September 14 to May 15  I'm hoping to get my project completed and tested by next weekend, which year will you finish yours


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

longodds said:


> September 14 to May 15  I'm hoping to get my project completed and tested by next weekend, which year will you finish yours


Difficult to say.
Like once its all done ,is running well, and I cant think of anything else to change.
What do I do then ? :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Side strips on bonnet done in "length grain" wrap.
Because of vinyl width being limited to 1.52 m the whole bonnet cant be done that way so it is a compromise.

Some spot the difference shots


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I got around to doing the front strut mounts and bearings today.
I suppose they should have been changed when the coilovers were fitted , but mech said they looked ok.

New ones are about 1/2 cm deeper than the old ones. I went for febi bilstein in the end cos they
seemed the largest on specs and I wasnt gonna go for poly or cupra ones.

Removal wasnt quite standard .
1. put the front on stands
2. The top nut that holds the retention cap on was 19mm..came with the coilies , so I had to break out my30 year old "drop forged in india" :lol: 17/19 recessed ring spanner.
3. the strut nut itself was 21mm used a plug socket.
4.The strut nuts had no tightening torque on.. just finger tight, no wonder the springs used to groan a bit on turning.
5. dropped one side out and left the cap on the other side barely held on.
Doing it this way you dont even have to remove the arb drop links.
Took the tension out of the coilovers.. wound them down.
6.Replaced bearing and bush then torqued up to approx 45lb/ft (feel) with a spanner on the flats of the plug socket.
&. reinserted that side cap barely held on.
7. repeated on the other side.
8.wound coilies up again , lowered car.
9.rechecked torque , then put same torque on cap nuts.

Turret to cap gap is down to a couple of mm ,from about 8 mm.
I suppose this will change over time .

The original bushes on closer inspection were kinda shot, I dont know if you can see the stress area in the pics.
They had the original date stamp on them Nov 02  so I suppose after 90k and 13 years they could have been worse .
Bearings.. seemed reasonable.. but gotta have some wear .

Whats it like/
So far much much better.
Between the arb bushes,new standard droplinks and top mounts ,the car rides very similar to my meg 3 with the same wheels.
The wbone bushes were investigated , and while not ,"as new" they are tight, so Im glad I didnt do those,for now .
Surprise clumps are gone, for the moment at least  and there isnt the , I wonder will this bump give a 50/50 chance of clonk 
Ride is definitely firm as you would expect on coilovers/20 inch wheels, but this noise (which is gone for now)was there even on the original prefacelift springs and 17 in wheels.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

oil n filter change after replacing dipstick and its tube.
Used some loctite rust remedy on the rusty ps brackets n other bits down low at the front prior to fitting nerobart undertray.

Undertray..mount it on with the flaps above and below the bar(intuitive).
Then put on the 4 wheelarch 10 mm bolts with springlocks, leave em loose.

Then see where to drill holes for the t25 tappers.You can peel the back down a little to see where the star bolts go
3 per side will do.
The original is 5 and 4.
Then the 2 t25 at the very rear.. 
The holes are pre drilled there and in the correct position..gtg.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

My new "clone" undertray









Unclean! unclean! 









My new undertray, a different view :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

comfiness 

1. Generalisation ( for same tread width tyres)
Going from 40 profile tyres to 35 profile tyres the comfort level goes from like 3 to 2.2.
From 35 to 30 profile 2.2 to less than 1

Its all to do with the huge air space reduction /air volume reduction inside the tyre and keeping a hi pressure to compensate.

Lots of info out there.

below offset measurements are with different spacers and et wheels but its all averaged.

2. Anyway on the front, 225/35/20 on the TT with an offset of 25+ seems to fit ok on a post facelift ground clearance , without rubbing.. down to a 5mm lower than post facelift ride height.

Rears on standard prefacelift 514mm upper and 519 mm lower tie bars and 2-3 degrees of camber.

3. rear 235/35/20 et 17 will go down to about 5mm above post facelift ride height without fouling on moderate loads..

4.rear 235/35 20 et 25 will go down to post facelift ride height, wi full tank and moderate rear load(havent tried near weight limit)

The trouble is (for me) at that level the rear arches are just a little below the tyre edge on anything but a near empty fuel tank.
oem car wheel and tyre fitments in most/any cars dont have the arches dipping below the tyre tread .

Im not saying theres anything wrong with that sort of custom look in aftermarket fitments , but I dont want my arches touching the wheel rim in a side view all the time :lol:

5.With 245/30/20 on the rear 
on an effective et of 25 and suspension raised to give ..lets just say 8mm to give the same ride height as with 235/35/20 there is light between the top of the arch and tyre and no rubbing under spirited :lol: driving cornering

That was all I wanted as a base.
Rear is firmer, but front tyres have more effect on ride comfort.

Even with a full tank there is side on clearance between top of wheelarch and tyre(at that height).

Further..Ill see if I can cut 5mm off front height and 5mm off rear on the 25 et and maintain a slightly higher rear stance , and/or refit the 25 mm rear pcd adapters for poke/or get equal length rear tie bars .

"today pinky no rubbing..tomorrow the world! " 

These are a rough illustration but not exact..'you need to be there in rl 
before on 235/35/20









after on 245/30/20









before on 235/35/20









after on 245/30/20


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Tyre and wheel setup finalised , (for this week at least :lol: )

225/35/20 front 
8j ,effective offset with spacers 25 (20 mm pcd adapters)
arch to hub height 335 mm approx.

245/30/20 rear
8j,effective offset with spacers 20 (25 mm pcd adapters)
arch to hub height 338-340, still settling

Ground clearance about the same as a post facelfift or s line all round.
The 30 profile on the back feels a little harder than 235/35/20..gee you think? 
but has allowed a less tucked under appearance.

These pics arent much different to the last ones just 5mm wider spacers at the rear.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With the camber done:
replacement tie bar kit and rose bushings. Its still around 2.0- 2.5 degrees per side but good enough 

245/30/20 all round at around 335-340 suspension height .
I should have taken more pics with the "summer" wheels on no worries.
Good news is the 20mm pcd adapters all round can double as 20 mm spacers for the original audi 17 in(I bought long bolts).

edit:On initially putting on the 225/45/17 wheel tyre combo (from their vacation in the garage roof).
I thought wow.. a lot comfier.Then today I checked the tyre pressures ..About 25 front and 22 rear.. corrected to normal (35/30).. not quite so softride


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> With the camber done:
> replacement tie bar kit and rose bushings. Its still around 2.0- 2.5 degrees per side but good enough
> 
> 245/30/20 all round at around 335-340 suspension height .
> ...


Looking good, I like it, but the bonnet looks a different colour.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

longodds said:


> Looking good, I like it, but the bonnet looks a different colour.


Its a consequence of vinyl wrap widths and using a wrap with grain.
Essentially the bonnet is too wide to wrap with the grain running along the length.Lambo owners have the same problem :lol: 
But for continuity..eh well nm
The bonnet has 3 different sections of wrap sometimes it looks all the same colour sometimes not.
For a contiguous bonnet appearance with grained wrap the grain has to be across the bonnet etc etc :0
It looks better this way.

all pics: "never mind the quality, feel the width" 

rear tint









rear tint wi lights on









rear tint wi double brake mod









full back wi double brake mod


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Wahey double brake light  Looks so good, sucks we can never actually see our own :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Now with working brake lights again ! (replaced the switch)

No other faults on autoscan vcds.
Unfortunately the pos refurbished Dell I bought for "car diagnosis" came with a battery that lasts 10 mins, so I cant do live logging atm.
Refurbished is one thing but mia is another so another, hopefully better, battery being sent out next week.

In the meantime ,ill be sorting out a "full" spare key.
Wak kindly extracted the immo code(when I was getting the remap done) so it should be a case of getting the correct blank,blade cut, and follow the procedure in the knowledge base.
Mebbe Ill contact "actionman37" for one of his bentley types.
My only key is pretty sad looking,Id have np keeping it as a "spare"

I also have rear drop link n arb bushes to go on. Standard as the rear is quite firm enough thx


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

New dw65v fuel pump fitted engine now holding steady all the way to 7200 and intermittent fuel starvation gone.

Yes its winter time


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

260/260 or close enough
Huzzah/Hurrah

After fuel pump^ Wak reckoned there was still about 5% performance missing from my logs.
a.Possibly MAF getting old (most likely but cant tell without changing).
b.the fact we can only get 95 ron fuel here and my millers octane boost might not be doing anything.
c.ack maybe worn turbo/minor leaks.

New(actually remanufactured in week 50, 2013  ) MAF(bosch) arrived last night.
Tested today, a couple of WOT's over 10 miles peak of 207.31 g/s so ok thats 259.1 bhp on the guesstimator  lets round it up to 260.

I had seen I run with that sort of readout before , but in in 10-12 Id done since it wasnt going above 192-195..mainly holding 192 .
Runs today 3 of, all about 206-208

Torque well not much change on that but its lower down anyway todays peak ,using block 120, 352 nm thas just around 260 lb/ft.

Lighter pocket at cmas but wth at least everythin is on song,(for today) :lol:

Heres a bit
rpm far left,g/s column F and torque column J. Didnt calculate inj duty cycle yet, hope thats ok


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

A first EGT log 
Aside from the above log..this one I "wimped out" just around redline time :lol: but wth










A= time in seconds I guess,12 sec from say 30-90 mph in 3rd

B=rpm..as you can see a lil wimped out ,I dropped throttle around redline.

C=inj timing/duty cycle.This is a lot better than it used to be  under 100% .

D=g/s airflow ,not a max .I can easily convince myself /Im sure it can hit 260-265 bhp on the g/s formula.. but as in the log its 250bhp.

E= one of the readings Ive just recently read up on :lol: .
In essence showing mixture going to about 11.5-12.5 at max power demand.
Thats compared to the 14.5-15 when you want good economy and all the petrol burnt 
Nice n rich.. more fuel cooler temps etc etc. 

F.Interesting..:Wow thas hot. I could easily see 950+C on a warm day.
Why is it interesting?. Im hoping to fit an aftermarket egt gauge.
1.The BAM egt sensor is apparently located in the K04 turbo itself.The turbo acts as a heatsink, so actual exhaust egt may be higher.
2.locating your egt after the turbo ,may give readings 100-150C less than actual.
3.If mounting sensor in exhaust manifold with a plug of some brass alloy,melting point of the brass alloys might be in the region of 900-950C.
4.the BAM 225 ex manifold is some uprated alloy to withstand the hi temps.
5.I hope the special alloy drills good 
6. Going for a low protrusion sensor..wow thas hot.. I think I said.I dont want any extended tip glowing white hot,even if the plug is stainless steel.


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

What's your end goal, or at least the ball park of where you want the car to be power wise? I see you keep doing power runs, hitting 260ish it seems.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Whats the point of an EGT gauge in the car? :?

Do you want to drill and weld another egt boss on the exhaust manifold?


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Beunhaas said:


> Whats the point of an EGT gauge in the car? :?
> 
> Do you want to drill and weld another egt boss on the exhaust manifold?


For people running crazy out of the norm builds, anti lag, custom setups, manifolds maybe? It's important to monitor EGT's. I'd put it up there with oi pressure and boost pressure.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > Whats the point of an EGT gauge in the car? :?
> ...


I agree, I'd put EGT monitering right up there with Lambda, boost pressure, coolant temp. Even daily driving, I feel blind without my EGT, boost, and lambda/AFR gauge. Can't put a value on the data that they provide on a tuned turbocharged car like the TT.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> > Beunhaas said:
> ...


On a track car or extreme tuned street car i totally agree with you guys but think in this case is a bit over the top. Running this spec you should be able to rely on a proper map instead of having a look on the gauge after giving it some.

Maybe the fact i like a clean dashboard without all bells and whistles makes me a bit subjective about this. :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

"Im not worthy " 
Aside from that Im surprised at the big egt variation goes from about 470C at idle to mid 900's it seems at hi rpm.
Fortunately it seems my WAkmap is doing the biz;
Now that ive replaced the dodgy fuel pump and the less dodgy but maybe a bit old MAF.

Plenty of cooling petrol(heh weird eh) in/rich mixture at hi rpm No misfires according to blocks 115 116 altho I did get 1 at idle when it wasnt fully warm.
Injector duty cycle good.
Ignition retard seems good, a little movement at max boost/power but less (according to what Ive read) than very aggressive timing advance.
ie milder than dangly bits to the wall but torque/power mapped and a little conservative considering the not ideal ron rating here.

The egt(from logs) temp :
I didnt really expect to see 900+ on the first log of it .
Still since 40% of an engines energy goes out thru the exhaust and a lot of that is in the form of heat, its not too unusual(I hope)
1. cos the egt is mounted in the turbo its supposed to read a little less than the max which would be like an inch along the ex manifold due to heat loss in the body of the turbo itself and I suppose the conversion of some of the heat into spinning energy when the revs build up.
Up to 50 degrees Ive read compared to egt sensor in the manifold or collector itself.
(not sure if thats F or C)

2.Then egt sensor mounting after the turbo in the ex out pipe can drop as much as 150 degrees from manifold temps, it seems.. np just calculate back 

The cht at least the readout on the dash doesnt move v much, must be just a water temp sensor in the head?

So .like I posted before, wouldnt it be great to be able to use the BAM engine turbo mounted egt sensor to power an in dash gauge(not the liquid tt or something connected to the obd port). Seems it cant be done,or might just mess up readings to the ecu.It only reads up to 999C  and the gauge I ordered goes to 1200C..I dont want to see a max on that.
What does the ecu on the BAM engine use the egt readout for exactly? or at least why does the BAM engine need one and the others dont?

So since the turbo sensor seems to be out  Ill have to fit another .Ordered a stainless steel plug and a short probe.
The plug/probe mounting is supposed to have length adjustment built in(screw thread).
The idea of a weld on plug(they are also available).Im not going that far just yet.
Ill wait n see and measure what sort of protrusion (oer missus) the plug and probe will give into the exhaust tract.

Since its the original special alloy ex manifold, Im not sure how welding would work out even if it is necessary.
Might even end up with the sensor in the ex pipe 

Usefullness ..Itd be like any gauge I hope.
I now have some idea what temps should be like in normal and WOT driving on a mapped engine,but I dont want a obd connection all the time.
Besides it has plenty of variation.. lit segments spinning up and down a lot in the 500-850C range..ooh :lol:

On the tuning/what I want out of it.
atm just to optimise Wak's remap, when theres nothing else to be done.. aside from importing UK fuel ..then maybe check the ol piggybank .


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> On a track car or extreme tuned street car i totally agree with you guys but think in this case is a bit over the top. Running this spec you should be able to rely on a proper map instead of having a look on the gauge after giving it some.
> 
> Maybe the fact i like a clean dashboard without all bells and whistles makes me a bit subjective about this. :lol:


Well, the same goes for just about any gauges that's not part of the factory cluster. You could easily do without a boost gauge but it is one of the popular mod on any forced induction car (TT included).

You *should* be able rely on proper mapping, but real life have taught all of us that things go wrong. Independently of what is in the software and how well it is mapped you will have hardware issues malfunctions etc. For these very common bumps on the road of perfect life, having gauges monitoring vital data has its place regardless of the use of the car. Obviously it's a matter of preferences, and everyone's priority will be different.


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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

Beunhaas said:


> Maybe the fact i like a clean dashboard without all bells and whistles makes me a bit subjective about this. :lol:


I'll agree with this. I too love a stock interior look as much as possible. The only gauge I currently have is a boost gauge in the furthest center vent from the drivers seat.

With that said, in my case for instance, once I get my car on wmi, I'm going to get creative and wire up the "passenger airbag" light up to it so it tells me when it's firing (Might even make it say something like "Crazy Boost" or "MAAAAD" lol). I may even throw in a killswitch because I can control when to get on it or not thus at low speed and low rpm, so it won't be essential to have it on and I can not burn through the water as fast.

I will however be getting an EGT gauge and AFR/Lambda gauge once I finish the build. Especially since I will be self tuning the fueling myself so I need to be as precise as possible and monitor it at ALL times throughout various loads to make sure I'm not varying too far from a proper A/F.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Hi,

I have seen several times on the forums where people weld an egt bung on the exhaust manifold. Maybe you can send bill at badger5 a mail what material he uses for the bung and what tig filler rod. He has done quite a few and sells them also.

The engine uses egt for fuel enridgement when cold and as a failsave dumping extra fuel when a thresshold of something like 960 degree Celsius is reached


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> So .like I posted before, wouldnt it be great to be able to use the BAM engine turbo mounted egt sensor to power an in dash gauge(not the liquid tt or something connected to the obd port). Seems it cant be done,or might just mess up readings to the ecu.It only reads up to 999C  and the gauge I ordered goes to 1200C..I dont want to see a max on that.
> What does the ecu on the BAM engine use the egt readout for exactly? or at least why does the BAM engine need one and the others dont?
> 
> So since the turbo sensor seems to be out  Ill have to fit another .Ordered a stainless steel plug and a short probe.
> ...


Joe, what is crazy about how hot these little turbos run on a daily basis when remapped is that repeated WOT use (hotlapping) usually have that initial peak EGT you logged climbing even more until it finally plateau (heat soaked). The later BAM engines use EGT and wideband lambda for better control and safety. The previous engines used a calculated EGT model that was based on primary O2 sensor heat measurements -- it worked, but due to the location and other variables, a true EGT probe was a more accurate way to go about it.

Like you said, it would be nice to integrate a gauge to the existing factory setup, but OBD port is about the only proper way to do so. A standalone EGT gauge and probe placed in the manifold is the best way IMO since it places the probe in an even better spot than the factory did. The stock cast manifold is not welding friendly, so drilling and tapping for your probe is what I and others that have done it usually do.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Madmax199 said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > So .like I posted before, wouldnt it be great to be able to use the BAM engine turbo mounted egt sensor to power an in dash gauge
> ...


 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Yeh well. like beunhaas post and your own info above,my Wakmap does seem to be a stage 1/2 map.
In essence a stage one is bog standard 225 mapped. Stage 2 is bog standard with say 
1. a forge dv(some doubt on this as testing indicates the newer audi dv is just as good)
2.Some induction mods for freeflow//debateable 
3.The 3" diameter IP,probably very good..I dunno but could increase low end lag.

The egt in degrees C seems to have np getting warm, and with hotlapping^  np getting higher.
In essence, while Im not" pushing the envelope" on 1.8T tuning, it seems hot!

Kind of ironic earlier engines use a narrow band sensor and no egt and later use a wideband with an egt ?.

The actual fitting of a sensor, thx again for the info(no rush here to try welding a plug).Ive ordered a ss 1/8 npt blank too in case I mess it up :lol: ..an exhaust manifold with a hole in it wouldnt be so good.

Im still unclear about how ,for example, a hybrid turbo/more boost at any point works,1781 cc isnt like huge volume,since I seem to be hitting 900..probably 1000C if I tried but nps .

The figures will look impressive!

No worries n thx for the input,This is still theory on my side , for the next day or 3
Preparation is good itll probably take me a week of mm will I wont I to actually drill into the manifold n so on. Ill excuse that by saying "Im calculating the exact nexus of max temp in the pipework" :roll: :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

New 55w HID

4300k(usual oem colour)
Daz whiteness :lol:

I had hoped for symmetrical fitting..but needs must


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With oil p adaptor arrived today..

boost sensor wiring down to oil p gauge area









oil p area with blank plug









oil p sensor ,note grey switch to the left was in the sensor area before both bracket holders were bent back.very tight there now


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Gauges in









cms 3" TIP in.. but may be coming out again  ,gonna try a few more things first.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Still running in the clutch .
I see the bodykit thats now in the post isnt exactly new 
from 2009..
I hope I can do as good on blending it in .


andy3.6tt said:


> A QS I have just reworked for a friend...


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

Fugly, but you're already used to that.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As an aside,
I notice I never did "update" on the egt gauge fitting.
I still have the gauge and the ss probe separately purchased tapping tool n so on, but came to the conclusion that ,since I have a BAM engine,which has its own egt already, even if its turbo mounted, its better than in the exhaust downpipe.
The hassle of drilling etc etc .Sticking with the two centre gauges op and boost/vacuum.

If anybody wants the egt gauge/and or the probe,gimme a pm.
Id do it for half price nps ,but with postage n so on I couldnt even match the hong kong guys .
Otherwise,might just mount it in the footwell or something and put the probe into the airbox to monitor intake temps on boring long trips


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## CollecTTor (Jan 17, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Otherwise,might just mount it in the footwell or something and put the probe into the airbox to monitor intake temps on boring long trips


EGT >>>>>>> IAT, and I'd trust a good gauge and K type probe over the OEM sensor.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

CollecTTor said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > Otherwise,might just mount it in the footwell or something and put the probe into the airbox to monitor intake temps on boring long trips
> ...


I know , but the egt sensor is working,its not in a 100% ideal place on the turbo,but I can allways log the temps or get a liquid tt for readouts . I was just considering some other use for the gauge n probe.

The regula bodykit is after all otw and like on the prev page not much point in having just the front part,it looks odd without the side and rear depth.
Even with "smoke on the water"









This guy seems to have breathing probs ,but at least its another view of regula "tunning"






May have to jack up the susp a little, see how it goes.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Bodykit story:
The bodykit arrived , but it was not the type B,it was the type A,the one with the big eyebrows over the front side vents and fluted sideskirts ,same as E3 YOB started to fit.
To cut it short, I sold it to a UK TT owner in NE of UK 
I could have kept the kit,total cost to me about 400 euro say 320 quid ,but there was nothing I could do with it,even with wrapping(I thought).
So auctioned it and with transport costs etc Im now down 200 euro   and no kit at all.Sheet happens.

btw The Uk buyer had ordered the exact kit from regula in germany and it never showed over 5 weeks... I tried the regula website(not ebay) and it was down .
This may not mean anything,but check to be sure if buying a bodykit !.
This NE UK buyer could be a forum member for all I know, if so wave n gl with it. [smiley=dude.gif]

So the brushed steel wrap.. after a year ,its starting to get worse.. I mean its starting to lift in concave areas,such as door handle recesses ,etc etc.
I have repaired ,but its an ongoing process and after another year itll look sheet(infills with nissan graphite grey paint etc :lol: The wrap is beginning to lose its elasticity also.
It still gets plenty of "ooh whats that" comments.but I dont let em get too close 

A lot of this could be down to
1. cheap wrap
2.semi amateur wrapper(me)
3.the red peeling.Car had already been resprayed once in red and was getting eczema in places..paint peel.

Soooo goin for a respray..not red,if gonna do it might as well change colour.
Ive seen candy apple red "huey n ralph"
I considered "ipanema brown" audi(google if you wish).
Also audi "daytona grey" n a host of others 
atm Im leaning towards crystal palladium grey (a mb slr colour linked before on the TT)

Why?

Well the front of the TT lends itself to a darker colour,especially if you have black headlamps.The rear an ideal colour is red to match the rear lamps ,but I have the lamps tinted anyway.

Cost?.. well my local spray dude who previously quoted 1300-1500 euro is now on "that'll cost a minimum 1000 euro"
Fook heres my money :lol: 
Seriously.. the guy is good,but for a full decent respray inc door shuts and boot,I dont care too much about engine bay area/underbonnet,as long as it doesnt look overspay.
Id expect around 1500 euro,I will of course be able to strip a lot :roll: of body parts,to keep the cost down and make sure the TT gets painted in all those "important lil places".
Ill update.++ Itll help max speed


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## VdoubleU (Jan 29, 2015)

Love candy red! There was a TT for sale not long ago on ebay in candy red.

Make sure you check his previous work. I got f***ed over by shoddy body shop work, luckily after a week of wet sanding and machine polishing it came out nice


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

VdoubleU said:


> Love candy red! There was a TT for sale not long ago on ebay in candy red.
> 
> Make sure you check his previous work. I got f***ed over by shoddy body shop work, luckily after a week of wet sanding and machine polishing it came out nice


Nah this guy is good.. I still have a renault he did(partial 3 years ago and my tigra  was perfect 6 years in.
Ive checked a bit since ,eve considered my old tigra apache gold.. or a ford dark metallic copper.

nb the regula body kit was delivered at midday to NE england so thas gone 

I think itll have to be the crystal palladium grey.Its not tooo hugely different to the brushed steel wrap but will have a decent gloss and in my opinion better than dolphin grey pearlescent or daytona grey .it costs about 60quid a litre for the basecoat.Normal metallics are about 40quid.

My "painter" is up the walls busy atm(not surprised), so Im booked in for beginning of May.He also said "no I quoted 1000 and I want to stick to that" (thas about 800 sterling including paint, primer. rub down cracked front bumper repair and other sheet) 

So I'm on a bit of guilt trip  Ill be taking off mirrors front bumper n so on ,as much as I can,toward the end of april,like prep as much as I can myself.Sure its in my own interests to a certain extent , but I couldnt even get a decent pro wrap done for that kind of money.

The colour?
How different can it be to this


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Costs:

Initial purchase price 3300

1. Full service with haldex oil n filter change 200
2.refurbished spare wheel(motorbikin)  10
3.Coilovers 230 ,fitting 130 (360 total)
4.Dash repair bba reman 150
5.spacer adapters 70 cutting old bolts own labour,spigot rings 7 (77 tot)
7.wrap 12 m x 1.52m 160 not fully applied yet  (160)
8.Audi coil upgrade (free ,hurrah)
9.Door microswitch repair,self (flora tub) no charge!
10. new front and rear discs n pads 75(drivetec) ,labour to fit em 120 (195 tot)
11. Genuine audi parts:rear bushes 40 ,aerial cap 6,thermostat n housing 30 +fluids 90
Labour for fitting, parts + wheel alignment 150 (240 tot)

Combined total including purchase price, so far = 4692

update since Jan 2015:
12.Wak remap (priceless  )
13.4 new alloys(same style) 450
14.Tyres for those and tyres for original wheels 500
15 New pcd adapters/dual purpose spacers 130
16.New rear tiebars (not adjustable) +tools for fitting 150
17.cc parts n tools 70
18.Fuel pump dw65 150
19.vcds 80
20.new MaF ,n249,3" Tip ,manual boost limiter,droplinks,fuel filter 200
21.HID lights /rear tinting ,led bulbs 70.
22.Various service items,gaskets ,rubbers, battery 200
23.Clutch replaced inc labour (not dmf) 450
24.cash loss on bodykit c up  160
25.replacement good key and spare blade total 60
26.Respray (May 2016)800-1000.

18 months
Mileage covered 6000 

Cash 8312


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## V6RUL (May 28, 2009)

Take costs to the next level and add-on tax, insurance, MOT and fuel..
Steve


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

V6RUL said:


> Take costs to the next level and add-on tax, insurance, MOT and fuel..
> Steve


I pass those over ,it looks better and I reason Id have to pay em anyway  , then again a 225 costs more for road tax here,if I had a v6 ,it would have cost 1700 sterling more than that again!


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## VdoubleU (Jan 29, 2015)

V6RUL said:


> Take costs to the next level and add-on tax, insurance, MOT and fuel..
> Steve


I could have bought another good 225 for the money I've spent on insurance alone for 2 years


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With "paint yer old gasket " technique there is a little room for inlet manifold grinding /smoothing.
On the cyl head side the gasket matches almost exactly to the inlet tracts.Might even need a tiny bit of new gasket trimming.
Also pictured is my bendy straw on the vacuum for valve tract, gritty bits that dropped in cleaning 


















So Volcano red or daytona grey?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6691 ... 2a86_b.jpg

This one is misano vs volcano

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8302/7775 ... 1d67e5.jpg

My original red btw was audi brilliant red.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Seals arrived today, everything back together,and it all works! amazing 
I think there are more jubilee/worm drive hose clips now than original audi,the conversion is progessing.
There is a much "raspier" note on acceleration now.
Whether thats due to the double intake gasket,tb clean,,mild gas flowing of inlet manifold,new injector seals or more likely not putting the engine cover back on  dunno.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I call it placebo :lol:

How can a few seals, clamps and some Cleaning affect sound?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

:lol: Probably is placebo:
havent driven the car for a week,not long since clutch was run in, cover off , no radio on  etc ,still tho maybe the smoothing n grinding and heat break goo sandwich double gasket had some effect .
Id have to do some full wellie runs to find out .
Plugs at least were a nice dark brown,no oiled up ones.
Could be just glad car is back working! with luck oil weeps sorted too,know after a few hundred miles.

Edit:Objective/subjective view.. who can say 
Today tho all working well and their isnt as fierce a transition from no boost to boost,almost like the car wasnt remapped,smoother delivery .Much less pedal travel needed to get action when below 2000 rpm is the best way I can describe it.Admittedly max boost isnt going above 24 psi.
I might turn off the boost limiter and see if theres any surge.
It could even be all the hoses that were disconnected /clamps replaced ,some one of them had a very minor leak.

On a worst case scenario  I didnt tighten something up properly and and I now have a boost leak , ack,doesnt feel that way.

edit 2: I allowed the boost limiter full rein, ie shut off the boost bleed into the actuator line totally 28 psi+ .
The surge prob is still there(if it is surge) chirp chirp chirp till 4k rpm +.. , clutch isnt slipping tho!.
After reading NickG n Firediamonds posts, I decided to order a new n75, maybe its worn out .."Is there anyone else" (Brad Pitt in Troy).
See what happens.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Colours:
Saw a lot at audi dealers today..Honestly in daylight I could see no diff at all between misano red and brilliant red models unless I got a very sideways view, then I could see some flecks in misano,maybe.
More exotic colours there were no examples of available.

I need to see some audi volcano red's in rl ,or bmw sakhir orange.
ipanema brown...bit brown, samoa orange.. bit orange ..both very nice when viewed at the right angle in the right light,but whats the 80% of the time colour gonna be.
Nissan 350z 2008 anniversary yellow (pearl metallic) seen in rl was interesting if viewed side on in sunlight, , but in general was budgie yellow.Couldnt live with it (sorry yellow TT  )

Mclaren volcano orange.. thatd be a candidate ,but since its a tri pack paint I wont be gettin it done by my sprayer ..not for any 800 quid at least!
The audi dealers lot was a little depressing "you can have any colour you want ,as long as its black,a not so dark black/silver/white,red or maybe a bit of dark blue if you wanna go really [smiley=dizzy2.gif]


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Its make your mind up time 
Respray starting on the third of May, should be ready around the following weekend.
The future is orange, well not really, but in some lighting.
Now that the colour is finally set, Ill be starting the stripdown in the evenings next week.
Eh?
Well for 800 quid ,I want the respray to focus on quality ,rather than stripping costs.
Thats the arrangement weve come to.
Ill be stripping the wrap, wing mirrors, door handles,roof bars and removing the front.
Front will get grille surround ridge blended in and lic plate holder blended flush also.(Ill do a motorised plate on that later)

I wont be removing the metal strip over the door and rear quarter windows, but I have the genuine audi rivets for that .
He will be doing the door and hatch reveals ,but not underbonnet or engine bay.
In that sense the bmw sakhir orange will blend a lot better with the original audi brilliant red.

The finished colour will be close enough to red rather than orange to negate any need for licensing colour change.

Whats the colour like?
Its very close to audi volcano red,but to me at least having seen a couple of examples of both in rl the sakhir doesnt hold quite such a yellowy orange look in duller light.

Only examples on bmw,obviously there are plenty more examples of audi volcano red out there(not on mk1's) and its close enough to that.
I tried to include pics that are more, how itd look in average lighting rather than "standing on your head for the best sun angle ones " 

















Some of the veyron reds dont look that good :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

For a lot of reasons,
Im going for "apache gold :lol: "









Weel see how it works..
Im tired of daytona grey would be very close to my wrap,or volcano red would be like brilliant red with orangey highlights.
Ive lived with apache for 10 years :lol: so I know how it looks under all lighting conditions.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Painting prep started today(by the spray guy that is).
Id already removed most of the old wrap ,front bumper,roof rails wing mirrors etc.
Wait till he sees Ive bought some nice new genuine audi rivets(for the side metal mouldings over the windows just under the roof line .

Thatll cheer him up no end :lol:

As it turns out he is able to doa somewhat unusual colour.
Its a 350z colour only used on 2006 models in US and Japan(z33)
Its an acrylic or non water based anyway so I thought It wouldnt be in his repetoire.
So bye bye apache gold and hello interlagos fire  or premium mystic maroon in Japan.
It is a kind of x between merlin purple and v6 black cherry but does have semi chameleon qualities.
sorry pics are 350z only :lol: 
At least it will be kind of unique .

















How itll look on the TT or even if itll be anything other than wine red/purple most of the time,have to wait n see.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

the 350z colour didnt work out..reason posted elsewhere(he sprayed the rear valance in a "field version" of the colour to test)
most likely now anthracite brown(porsche), : Still only half the prep done anyway.. man this better be mirror smooth :lol:


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

I just wanted to say how much I liked the Interlagos Fire. Such a rich looking colour. Not in the light of day though?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

longodds said:


> I just wanted to say how much I liked the Interlagos Fire. Such a rich looking colour. Not in the light of day though?


Its hard to describe
1. Ive never seen the original colour in rl
2. Only about 3 z33(fairlady) versions with that colour ,were imported to the UK from Japan.
3.My painter(as posted above did the rear valance in what you can describe as a non trick version,extra tint would cost him/me another 200 and no guarantee it would have the full colour spread of the original.
The version he did went from a dark maroon to a kind of merlin purple red metallic in very bright sun,but no chocolatey/bronze effects.
4.Any scratch or damage would be a nightmare to set right ,even if the extra 200 did provide an all the bells n whistles finish.
5.The light of day  the colour was only provided in one year .. 2006 and only for US and Jap markets.Pacific sunshine.

Yes if I could have had "here you go, exactly as from factory" maybe..as it is too risky.. 80% of the time itd be a darker purple than merlin and without the full "trick' metallic , even in bright sunshine could just go "pink" hard to justify


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

I might have missed it in another topic, but did you stick with Porsche's Anthracite Brown, is the job finished and, if it is, what do you think of it?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

:lol: 
No worries Ill post as soon as done..Long story guy is on 3 weeks vac, so I now have a primered car in storage.. well semi primered n spotty.
getting 100 quid off for the delay .. wooH.. I lose that in ins and tax !.. approx another week n weel see.
Yeh anthracite brown bitchslap, anthracite brown n no more delays you hear me 

Sorry gettin impatient


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Painter guy is back from france.. hurrah!. I called up and he was smoothing the front bumper.
He's now taking off more parts and the rocker panels for a more thorough job.. good but mach schnell !  .
He sprayed a few pieces
For what its gonna look like , the closest thing to "as bad as itll get " which in essence means itll look black, is this.
Dull wet day/our weather









 of course beside a black car it doesnt look black at all.
Either way when I eventually get my paws on it again Ill post some pics with sun on it too !


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Well I for one am looking forward to seeing it in it's full anthracite brown glory- in the sunlight.

'rocker panels' = sill covers?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Yeh sill covers.
Finally got my thread title right 
Last couple of days,when I pointed out that the car will have been off the road 12 weeks. approx 3-4 days for me to strip down bits and same again for me to put em back on ..Its all primered up,and the recesses , door returns, boot returns lamp surrounds sills n other areas have all been done in anthracite brown.
Full body paint tomorrow, its gonna take about 6hrs approx something to do with temp regulation wet on wet n stuff .
Fingers xed .Maybe pics next week when the bumpers sills n mirrors are back :roll:


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Good work chap, are you sure you don't want a 350z as you are always going on about them lol


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

rusTTy_racer said:


> Good work chap, are you sure you don't want a 350z as you are always going on about them lol


 yeh well its only a few degrees in appearance but it really came down to (for me) 1600 pounds road tax for a 350 or a 3.2 v6 vs 450 pounds pa for a 225(1781 cc).A fiver a day just didnt feel right 
edit:
To put it in perspective, cos I have a 225 4cyl mk1 instead of a 3.2 mk1 , I could change the car colour/have a respray every year and still "make money" :lol: (provided the respray didnt take 3 months!)


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> rusTTy_racer said:
> 
> 
> > Good work chap, are you sure you don't want a 350z as you are always going on about them lol
> ...


 '1600 pounds road tax'? WOW! Why so high?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Up to 2008 anything 3L or over=1600 , below 3L various rates but 1700-1800 cc=450 approx


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## Lukeyluke (Jul 8, 2016)

Tax here in Belgium is crazy, England is a tax haven wh n it comes to cars and insurance...

Good luck with the spray up, look forward to see some photos!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Heres some pics of the car as it is

The sun broke thru for the first pic 
The rest is todays cloudcover light.
I kinda like it

When I have all the bits back on, and summer alloys, and take the car back for its "final polish", Ill go crazy and post some on photobucket, maybe even with "fanfare for the common man" in the background :lol:


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## rusTTy_racer (Sep 7, 2015)

Looking great and worth all the effort/cost I'm sure. You now need to stay away from all the arseholes who think it's ok to bump into an 'old' car :roll:


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Lukeyluke said:


> Tax here in Belgium is crazy, England is a tax haven wh n it comes to cars and insurance...
> 
> Good luck with the spray up, look forward to see some photos!


If you're referring to Vehicle (Excise Duty) Tax, what would a year 2003 225 be expected to pay for twelve months Road Tax?

Thank you, Dank u, Merci, Danke


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Do go crazy with the photos. It will help us discern the colour.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

[smiley=cheers.gif] all
it really looks like any one of these depending on the light
https://www.google.ie/search?q=anthraci ... 15#imgrc=_

Like somewhere close to met black with a hint of v dark brown thru grey brown met, sandstone met.perhaps met grey with right light,bronze maybe if a pacific sunset was on it .
The worst shade Ive seen if you catch it at just the right angle and light is a kind of gloss non met muddy/khaki brown , but you wont see any posted pics like that from me or porsche owners either Im sure :lol:

Trying to be objective (difficult )
porsche 911/cayman et al are comparatively short cars ,v similar length to TT, and curvy so online pics of that type of car n their oem colours cant be too far off.
Thats if your painter mixes and applies it right. This colour :if a piece was sprayed (say rear bumper ) and you picked it up and viewed it in dull light it looks so close to met black,you say wth met black isnt bad.Even in bright sunlight leave the piece on the ground /wall and walk away . It still looks pretty much metallic black but with more flakes shining thru, no matter what way you look at it.

You got to have the whole car done paintshop wont cut it, (even with pieces taken off :lol: ) to see the whole effect so bit of a gamble on a complete colour change to non oem.
Im happy enough so far,if it looks totally pee or poo with a weeks coating of road grime on.. I wont be posting those pics either


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Cloud n sun 90% done 
































stealth mode


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Nice and shiny, but please give the front grille some clear coats. Now it looks like the grille is perished due to the sunlight.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Beunhaas said:


> Nice and shiny, but please give the front grille some clear coats. Now it looks like the grille is perished due to the sunlight.


 It is a bit, of course theres a coating of "polish dust " on it too.. It is an unretouched 13 year old grille.
Im not sure what to do with it.
The 3 lower ones(not in yet),I have sprayed gloss black .Im not sure I want to go that route with the main grille.
nb 
Adjusted the suspension and fitted some adjustable front links just before putting the 20 in alloys back on.
Bit of a guestimate on adjuster turns , but its worked out fine. Suspension is now 340mm all round and since the tyre radius is 10mm above standard =post facelift ground clearance.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

roof rails back on and I also gave the main front grille a run with some simoniz jet black trim restorer(see above ).
Its not as extreme as gloss paint and I think it will last.
Yes I know theres still dust everywhere and window surrounds look grey :lol: , but Im waiting for the final? machine polish before a proper wash n wax.


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Getting there. Did you do a 'how-to' for your front number plate mod?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

longodds said:


> Getting there. Did you do a 'how-to' for your front number plate mod?











Not really as it comes with instructions,see original makers:
http://altecproducts.com/wp-content/upl ... NSPORT.pdf

Other than that,I cut a slot in the lcr splitter so that the plate ,when moving, just clears the lower edge of the splitter and used the self tappers for mounting as well.
On TT's with no lcr splitter,I think mounting would be more difficult and more visible due to the curved underside of the front.
Ill need to mount the remote on a bit of velcro/similar as its difficult to see "up and down" when its on the key ring !
"but I do have a front reg plat ossifer" ..where the hell is that up button :twisted: :wink:


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## Baalthazaar (Jul 11, 2010)

Have to say I love that colour, and I need the number of your painter lol.....mine needs a bit of a face lift....


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Baalthazaar said:


> Have to say I love that colour, and I need the number of your painter lol.....mine needs a bit of a face lift....


Bit of a story there .The guy is a 1 man operation and Ive used him twice previously for crash repairs on other cars, neither of which were my fault btw  and super quality.
Back in 2013 I consulted him about getting an "anniversary" 350z in metallic yellow sprayed some other colour!.. sorry Yellow . Actually a pretty rare colour, but anyway.

After buying the TT I attempted to self fix some defects in the paintwork(red) but it had been resprayed before and was starting to lacquer peel in places.
Worst part was the bonnet, but loads of other stuff, roof was'nt great finish up close, wing mirrors starting to peel n so on.

His quote for bonnet alone was E180 ,which is actually not bad,but I decided to wrap the whole car for E200 in materials and 0 labour(me)
That took me awhile  but car wasnt off the road even if multicoloured :lol:

K so the facts on respray from red to present colour

1.Total cost including special low scratch lacquer he ordered ,blending front bumper(grille line and no plate recess) and fixing one minor dent- just less than 4 figures euro..
Holy Sheet, you might think, even with me stripping a lot of parts :bumpers/ mirrors etc but there is more to it than that 
2.
Some residual wrap primer, and of course peeling off the wrap(me), left big sheets of laquer/paint coming off(previous respray) but in a patchy way.There was massive overspray of red on the previous rubbers  and I think he overestimated the quality of the underlying paintwork.
In essence , I think he hoped /costed for a base coat on top of a sanded down previous surface.That wasnt happening.he had to use a hi build black primer.

3. The wait : job was costed for 10 days .. said heed knock it down to a week cost(5 working days).
Problem was it took 10 weeks!  .I know how this came about . Being a 1 man setup he has to continuously tik over on fender damage small ins claims and so on .
If heed had a v slow 2 weeks ,he would have had no choice but to keep going on the TT :lol: .
As it was ,he got a lot of higher than normal,bread and butter traffic in.

Dont get me wrong, I was pretty "antsy" towards the end , but he is a decent guy and "I charge what I quote"
The finish isnt yet 100% but he will do whatever it takes.. bit of respray. bit of polishing whatever , for 1/2 day foc 

He isnt however. St francis of a sissy.. .he was having TT nightmares and is gone off the respray idea especially in a different colour :lol:

I think however he could be amenable to do it again for like double the price and half the time, or for minor like small section quarter panels,roof/whatever, heed have it done in a couple of days hi quality.
Mine isnt 100% perfect but with usual self cleaning/work etc should be ok

Mine turned out a bit more like Conlechi's tsi transplant,kinda long,or 
ice cold in alex if you prefer 





I can check out roughly what you want/cost n so on..he hasnt seen a TT in a little while :lol:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Winter wheels should be on now, but it hasnt been that cold yet.
Looking at the pics, its been so long the 235/45/17 tyres n wheels look like balloons ! All depends on what youre used to I suppose.

Ive recently fitted some ebay dual coolers which may or may not be better than standard ..theyre deeper105 mm vs 85 mm and other differences but Im suspending judgement.
I have lots of logs with the old ic's but only one wi the new and its not startlingly different, but testing is v v subjective off dyno.
Car is stripped front now waiting for k+n s 2000 , due tue (was delayed) should have been here last week .

Things seen wi front stripped leaks n grease around :------
steering pump switch (leaking) 18 quid
oil pressure switch leaking 4 quid
p/s front inner cv boot is gone new one(kit) 7quid , bought 2 cos right side may not be far behind.
4 bkr7E plugs 13 quid (mainly to have a spare set and of course to bring amount up to free delivery :lol: 
gasket for timing chain adjuster(camcover).. which may or mat not be dripping  3 quid.

All in with 20% dis and free delivery 45 quid..s2000 filter was 52.
Yes uncover the front of your TT to spend your spare cash !


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With some luck,Ill now have a clean ..engine underside,or at least no drips.
engine oil p switch was a real pia to do.
It and the steering pump switch were combining to provide oil at a point just under the flywheel position sensor.
Same position that Sinfuldesign had a mysterious leak back in Aug.
Without a lot of checking, it looked like a sump gasket leak.

So how did the steering pump send oil to an area above the sump on the engine block?!
I think this was how the crafty sod did it 
Even tho some of the ps fluid was leaking from the top of the switch n down the pump, a lot of it was dripping down inside the wiring sheath and spreading along the lip at the base of the engine block.








After testing today, it all seems dry fingers xed.


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## miTTzee (Dec 8, 2015)

Hi Ho 3TT3 - nice one on your fix, 8) fingers crossed for you
that it will stay dry and all is well. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

miTTzee :wink:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

With the airbox from an A3 cut ,lower portion is unwakked  , and the k+n filter in its now not as wheezy and more growly and a bit quieter.
More Conean the barbarian than Darth Vader 









Very whooshy/breathy- Original box(wakked)









Complete A3 box lower part as original.top cover cut

















A3 box with original TT decorative cover, cut for filter


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

crappy pics but it was getting cold out there .
Finally decided on this location for catch can (baffled), 19mm inlet/outlet, straight thru inline,no venting.
I even found a use for the old cmd downpipe from the puc.At least I wont forget where I put it.


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

You don't half love to tinker! Enjoyed reading all this tonight.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Replaced this(ns) today
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/252047014420?_tr ... EBIDX%3AIT
and yes it was the problem, had to split the lamp, like in Wak's how to.
Now to test out the LED bulbs with heatsink and fan


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

In case your all waiting anxiously for my wmi/wpi results !..yawn no not really :lol: 
I have been at it when time allows.
The kit has a boost gauge controller type thing and I had no wish to remove my present boost gauge or lose a side air vent or have screaming mod bits all over the place.
Essentially drivers cubbyhole,is the only semi stealth mounting spot ,but it also needs to be visible in normal driving.

+ Im also mounting my ign switched sat nav/dash cam 12v + usb supply sockets in there .
Installation is essentially the same as intott's with some mods .
Kudos to intott as Id have gone by the book with tank above pump,if i hadnt looked into it more.
ie tank around the same level is ok too,with a solenoid.

One thing, with testing onthe cms tb adaptor prior to fitting.
If you use a snowperformance nozzle on the adaptor as supplied,it will blob up.
Other nozzles I cant say.
Without going into it too much ,I had to cut the tapered hole in the tb adapter about 2- 3mm deeper with a 1/8 npt tap.
Its still recessed but the spray clears the sides.

The gauge unit is handy,in that it has an injection off button built in + you can adjust injection on the fly,but I havent tried that yet.
All I know for sure so far is that it works, press the prime button at idle and the engine note changes :lol:

Now I need some cool washer bottle cap that says danger ! isopropyl alcohol only!


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## watersbluebird (Oct 26, 2015)

Brilliant work, 3TT3! Will you get it mapped for the injection now?
Please be around when I get mine sorted at some point lol.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

watersbluebird said:


> Brilliant work, 3TT3! Will you get it mapped for the injection now?
> Please be around when I get mine sorted at some point lol.


Short ans ..no not atm.I got some advice from Wak.
The wi has restored my good map timing at high rpm and lowered temps a lot,but there is no headroom for more timing advance for example,IF I want to drive the car normally when wi is turned off or runs low.
Maybe if I get around to exhaust side/turbo mods sometime..as it is Ill just play around with logs and progressive injection settings


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

What timing corrections do you see now?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

intott said:


> What timing corrections do you see now?


Very roughly,and my machine isnt comparable to yours: for example its only pulling 18-19psi at 6-7k n so on but:
on a 60/40 H2O/isopropyl mix.
6000rpm +,wpi injection off 5-9 degrees btdc .
6000rpm +,wpi injection on 12-16 degrees btdc.
Same run same oat , same wot in 3rd,roughly the same heatsoak and so on.All I know for sure is, its definitely doing something 
nb it cleans the windshield like crazy!


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

Sorry I ment by how much is the ecu retarding ignition?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

About 6-7 degrees without wi .
at uncapped boost peak say 3500 it was retarding more and kw blocks going 4-6.
I let the boost go up to 25 psi on initial spool(it peaks about 28psi unmoderated) in hopes the wi would do something for the surge .It didnt
Now without logging I have it capped back at 22psi max showing on boost gauge(around the map sensor limit).
wi on the 175 nozzle starting at 15 psi feels good ,max output set for 25psi equivalent.
Which means the pump never gets to full output.The output graph on the gauge shows it peaking around 75% pressure but since the 175 nozzle is rated 250-350 wheel hp it doesnt seem like Id ever need it running flat out.
Ill do some 2 measuring block logs over the weekend.timing temps boost lambda etc.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I may be getting some adjustment done afterall ..hopefully get some surge mapped out too.
I took the catch can off just for testing didnt seem to make much diff higher up tho possibly early spool up time was reduced.
Nice mugfull of what looked like iced tea inside and lots of mayo on the baffle..yum .
Its back on now


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Time for more exterior piccies, its been awhile
Quiet at the back there , whoever said "not long enough for us" 

























edit
Ill stick this in here,probly wont be noticed :lol: 
The water methanol injection,or water isopropyl alcohol in my case 55% distilled H2O by volume .
No real need for graphs as its a pia doing them on excel 99 :lol: and I can read the bits I need to read.
The actual pump pressure and ml/min , I think Ive adjusted as good as I can get.
Wak has adjusted my map a bit btw from no wmi to wmi.

Forgetting about the torque area and max boost but going for 6000 rpm +
Say an average of 211 g/s MAF 6000-6800 and average of 18 psi boost in that range wmi on or off .
Iat temps and egt temps huge variation, depending on whether continuous WOT runs,leaving it to idle in the sun or wotever.

wmi injection will cut the temps 4-5 degrees C whenever it kicks in at minimum pressure.

K ignition timing or ignition advance btdc.

Without going into flame fronts, octane rating fuel burn n so on and casting runes 

Previous map,with no wmi and 12:1 afr increasing rich it looks to me like in the 6000+ rpm range the ignition timing was hoping to fire at 15 degrees btdc.
If real lucky and iats were good, and egt didnt get high it might hit that for at least .4 of a second anyway but .4 of a second later 5 degrees might have been cut off that cos of detonation sensor etc

In practice with a v hot engine and lots of heatsoak/wot 5-6 degrees of that advance was being cut 90% of the time .Timing definitely moving around a lot.
Now it seems to be set around"gimme 18 degrees btdc" , but with wmi injection on and flow set properly it only varies from like 17-18 degrees btdc.

Of course theres a safety factor built in for water alcohol runout..like youd have to be a loony to try and push the timing pull limits with no wmi,but can still drive reasonably , happy days.
Cheers Wak.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As the respray lacquer has been on year , Ive now started to "2000 grade followed by some farecla grade 3" on the whole car.
What? you mean it wasnt mirror finish on a £1k respray ?
 well no it wasnt ..good enough but not claybar finish, even new car paint finishes are a bit dimpled..
Most of you will know what I mean.
Bonnet, front and roof done and d/s door halfway !..you can see reflections a little clearer.
Tiny little tar spots I couldnt see are clogging up the 2000 ,maybe I should have gone white :lol:


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

3TT3 said:


> Gauges in
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> cms 3" TIP in.. but may be coming out again  ,gonna try a few more things first.


Did you use a bracket for the gauges


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

chisharpe said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > Gauges in
> ...


viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1196409&hilit=+60mm+gauges
Hey,no brackets
I used 3 strips of double sided tape,doubled. so twice as thick.
The gauges are only gripped in around half of the circumference. 
That leaves a small area for ventilation/a/c around the gauges.. better than none at all 
They are solidly held, but obviously if someone was to push hard with their hand they would be pushed back into the vent recess.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Got a 217 and a bit :lol: gm/s reading today,at almost 7000 rpm n so on , but it is something .
Might have been atmospheric conditions,wotever but its been a long time since I saw 216 gm/s.

At least it seems the engine/turbo/ induction system isnt getting worn out.
The main contribution I think is probably a recently fitted dual 200cpi ss exhaust(just the bit from the standard dual downpipe back to where it joins to the standard exhaust).
The midrange go seems better also,but that could just be my ,Ive spent x £,,,yeh its better for sure 

Whats that like 2 bhp ? .
n you could say.. stop pratting around n get a hybrid turbo , still it is something :lol:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Stop pratting around n get a hybrid turbo!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

:lol: yeh for sure .
edit :Changed to a bit nudie on engine covers ,cant really do anything about the battery one.
I went for back logoed washers with ss screws too..I bought a big selection from chinatown sometime back.
I think it looks more purposefull.
Before









After

















Probably need to cover the whole wmi line now


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Despite my recent post re paper filters ,
Ive now gone to open cone, as in fully open like most people.
The peekaboo housing the cone in the original box was just making an oven (I think) .
Its also much less noisy! 
Cone in a box is much noisier.


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

ride height 336/337 all round.
too low at the rear.
Ride height 340 all round ride acceptable but still quite crashy at specific times(bad roads) on cheap coilovers.

ta technix the £180 quid ones.
Not s***e mind you, but I personally think coilovers with helper springs are a bridge too far.
If going coilovers permanently get the big bucks ones , single spring.

Good thing about cheap coilovers is you can experiment ,even balance the car corners np.
Rear camber is about -2.3 with correct toe in .Too high perhaps but Ive had esp kicking in and haldex with more + camber ,especially on slight uphill hi wellie bends.

Changing to koni str.t front shocks and H+R -25 mm springs.
Thats -5 mm on facelift/sports suspension.

Already I "Know" the front springs/shocks are much more progressive..fat coils big gap vs thin coils narrow gap and helper springs.
The actual fitting/refitting is a bit of a btrd tho.
Coilovers came out v easy.
The koni front shocks ..tighter than a v.. you know what I mean.

If Id purchased the vag tool,perhaps np but atm Im on this

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... p-and-easy!
So wont be on 345 mm ride height or wotever tomorrow, only one side done.
The tool isnt for extraction purposes, its to allow the new shocks to fit ..and there is messing around with jacks.

Nothing ever simple eh


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

All fitted up ok ! 
Handles better n so on but the main thing is the extreme crash on bad roads is gone Hurrah.
The 5mm ride height difference and the new koni shocks may have had something to do with it too.Definitely worth the £360,of course if I was paying myself labour itd be about £600 extra 

edit: Im now much more confident on B roads..more like C roads here....if you hit a pothole or hump after a tight bend its no longer


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ride height now..pity about the mud! still its rl

































Ride height is a few mm higher especially at the back , but it handles and rides much better.
The small arch to tyre gap at the rear makes it more oem looking (mho).Well I have to say that, cos Im not changing them back! .
I hope my pm box doesnt get filled to capacity with messages for my old coilover set :lol:

edit
Allways loosen off the upper rear droplink mountings if you are changing suspension height/springs,coilovers, tiebars whatever.
My left rear p/s has allways been a little bit higher than the d/s even when I had coilovers and was adjusting balancing for a really level surface and so on.
Over a year ago I bought new rear droplinks,never fitted them , because I was waiting to maybe change the rear arb bushes at least.
I never got around to changing the rear arb bushes cos they seemed ok when I looked.
In all this time, I never loosened the top droplink bolts when changing things , probably some idea of "itll do when I fit the new ones".
Tonight I did(upper and lower) and sort of pushed the rear to get any x forces out of the picture.
The rear has leveled out ..about 345 mm per side.,before there was like 347 left and 344 right.
Tightened them up as is.
I still havent fitted the new links,may as well go for it now.
Thats all .


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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Good job. Cars looking nice. 217g/s not bad 270hp? What mods do you run?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As of now
Stage 2 type Wakmap, retuned n75 duty cycle and timing since initial map.
Back to standard airbox and filter,with one small wakbox hole 
3" TIP
standard turbo
Upgraded(supposedly) smic's
Single nozzle(tho it does have a separate nozzle control function) snow performance wmi.
Boost controlled only , 60% water, 40% isopropyl alcohol.
Injection starts at 12psi.does enable 18deg timing advance above 6000 rpm without retard.
BKR7E plugs
ss sports cat (dual) exhaust.Not 3 in downpipe and catback is standard.

The rest is just appearance , er I mean handling and so on 

edit: I do use 95 ron fuel.. cos thats all thats available here


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> As of now
> Stage 2 type Wakmap, retuned n75 duty cycle and timing since initial map.
> Back to standard airbox and filter,with one small wakbox hole
> 3" TIP
> ...


Ahh. What difference does your wmi system make? A lot, a little or hard to tell?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

longodds said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > As of now
> ...


A lot  can feel it too.smoother n so on.
temps below 900 now,timing advance as above,before it would knock/heat retard to sub 10 degrees.
gm/s not much diff but that isnt the ultimate determinant with same boost and more timing.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

O2 sensor spacer is otw.
Fuel tank has under 2 gallons in it(I think) so ill soon be getting high on petrol fumes checking the level sensors 
The evap cannister ,activated charcoal or whatever it is.
Does that ever need to be checked/renewed . ?
I dont see much about it anywhere , just that it scrubs the fuel vapour/vents tank.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Intott's latest posts got me thinking :twisted: makes work for idle hands ..

May as well have a go at a fmic..Im not sure Itll make much temp difference with wmi running ,but it may affect the surge characteristics somehow.Not that I have surge atm cos Wak mapped it out.Not so much a boost cap as a boost rpm range shift.
Besides what else would you spend money on around cmas time :lol: 
boost piccy
brown =surge from TIP on premapped
blue=mbc inparallel with n75 boost limited
red= boost plot shifted and wmi running









Twilights last gleaming ?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Few things to do for the summer.
1.new clutch switch (bought)
2. lube rear brake pins
3. reorder some isopropyl alcohol (for the water injection)
4. replaced a key battery

That's about it atm.
Ive seen the new youtube vids of the guy with his 16 year old project mk1.Been there done that ,I think he will find the fixes a little more complicated than just changing the oil and filter :lol: especially the dash pod.


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## auspicious_character (Sep 4, 2016)

Return of the Mick!


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

My clutch slipped(painfull) after 8k miles.
I now have zf performance clutch going in, but it wasn't really needed . I thought my huge torque/power inc had burned the disc..no :? .The problem was gearbox shaft seal leaked oil. Now I have a super expensive disc an pressure plate , which probably wasn't needed...motto is. if doing the clutch get all the clutch housing oil seals(crankshaft,gearbox, diff ones) replaced at the same time . (I think there is a recommended audi kit)

Now I have a 3 times the price clutch and pressure plate+ slave bearing going in , probably un needed and still the same worry of oil contamination ;(


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I have MoT/nct(same thing) next Thursday 06/02/21 . Everything should be ok..but I will do a once over between now and then. Oh the clutch switch is gone: (still not replaced  , my excuse is it will lower the 0-60 time haha }basically the cc isn't working and revs don't drop with gearchanges. It wont affect the NCT. I have the new one. I just need to find the enthusiasm to fit it and a non brass monkey evening :lol: .


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

After like 3 years of having my tt steering wheel off centre when wheels in straight ahead position... btw this is after many alignments etc .. . Today I bit the bullet and moved the wheel 4 splines anti clockwise. It all seems good. Changed the plugs for 4 new bkr7e ( the old ones had the good light brown/grey colour) ,also noticed one of the take off hoses from the TOP was a bit loose. 
Its definitely running much better now .
The aluminium roof rails .. grr are still rusting.. aluminium oxide or whatever it is. I will have to get the paint removed totally and whatever super aluminium etch primer put on or whatever is needed. Im tired of redoing spots where paint just flakes off to reveal white powder.
Also the cc is non functioning . fault code indicates brake light switch , but switch was replaced before and brake lights are working. I will have to recheck all the wiring again .. fun times :0


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I mentioned in some other post about instrument cluster , specifically DIS display . It was repaired 6 years ago.. WoW! by BBA reman , In the past year or so DIS display has gone flaky, either fully on, or fully off ,not missing pixels. I contacted BBA reman yesterday, I still have the (same owner) lifetime guarantee. So on a non brass monkey night ,it will be cluster out and registered post off to BBA reman .nb they will need a copy of v5 included. For UK/NI, they will even do collect for free . I unfortunately will have to pay. atm it should be a 3-4 day turnaround.


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