# Subwoofer on non-Bose



## Technologyfox (May 28, 2017)

Someone must know!!! How do you get to the subwoofer on Mk2 TFSI roadster non-Bose?? Help, don't want to break anything and cannot find schematic anywhere!

My Bass is dire and thinking of fitting Active sub!


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## davectr (Sep 9, 2012)

I'd assume the roadster and coupe wiring is the same (may be wrong though), so it is possible. I installed a bass tube and amp a few years back. Just need to tap into the signal wire in the passenger side panel of the boot area (sorry can't remember which wires they were, but there is guides on here somewhere that I used), and take a power supply from the battery in the boot, then find a suitable earth point. 
I used the built in crossover on the amp to set the bass level. Sounds much better than stock


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## Guybrush (May 3, 2017)

This sounds like an interesting option, and one I'm considering in addition to my Bose system.
https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/produc ... Aq-Y8P8HAQ
Won't take up too much space, and looks to be a trivial install.


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

Hey Guys,

Been keeping an eye on this as I have a non-Bose system too (which to be fair I'm quite impressed with so far) but looking to add some more base at some-point. Am I right in assuming even the Non-Bose TT's have a sub in the back too then? (Coupe here)

Interesting you're mentioning subs as I've come across from Pioneer which is supposed to be the slimmest sub available right now: https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/produc ... -32868.htm

For research purposes I've managed to squeeze a book 6cm in height under the driver seat, admittedly the seat wasn't fully lowered in height but set as I like it. So from my initial research I suspect you can fit this particular sub under a seat BUT I may be wrong as it's all theory ... I may be tempted to give it a try when funds allow. Would it be easy enough to access the signal wire from here or be a pain ? I'd also change the head-unit (with sub-out input) in the process so I suspect I'd just go directly into that and kill the standard non-bose sub somehow? Guess it's a case if slicing the right wire?

Sorry to hijack!


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

Non-Bose cars do not have a sub in the boot.


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## Stem (Jul 14, 2015)

CurryMan said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Been keeping an eye on this as I have a non-Bose system too (which to be fair I'm quite impressed with so far) but looking to add some more base at some-point. Am I right in assuming even the Non-Bose TT's have a sub in the back too then? (Coupe here)
> 
> ...


I'd be interested in this thread as it develops - as I have a coupe with lack of base (non Bose).
It's a shame there isn't a speaker replacement system available other than the Alpine SPC 400TT (which is expensive).


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

tttony said:


> Non-Bose cars do not have a sub in the boot.


Arr thanks for clearing that up.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

CurryMan said:


> tttony said:
> 
> 
> > Non-Bose cars do not have a sub in the boot.
> ...


Mine has!

Active sub even with auto shutdown and start up, depending on the signal on the audio input. A Blaupunkt model, but it's not on the market anymore. I'm sure alternatives are available.

Power supply plus comes from the battery. 
Minus comes from the earthing point that the standard amp uses in the back of the car (left side).

Audio is taken from the right front speaker and fed into the left and right input of the active sub. ( I don't care much for stereo coming from 1 speaker :wink: )

Wires used: brown/green 1,0 mm2 for minus and red/green 1,0mm2 for the plus. I freed them up a bit from the wire loom that goes to the amplifier in the back. So effectively adding a sub only requires work in the boot space. Provided you have the amp in the back. How you know you have one? If your dash has a working centre speaker near the windshield, you have one.


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

> How you know you have one? If your dash has a working centre speaker near the windscreen, you have one.


Interesting, yes I have the centre speaker near my windshield. So you're suggesting I have a none-bose sub?

I thought it sounded quite bassy for standard ! Still after more though ... :mrgreen:


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

I put a sub in my boot (non bose). Originally I built an enclosure and put it in the spare wheel well but removed it as I am going to put a spare wheel in there now. So I bought a small wedge box and put my 10" sub in it. The amp it connected to the L&R fronts direct from the RNS-e and powers on when it detects a signal and off after a minute without a signal and lives under the boot floor. All works really well and makes so much difference to the sound which was much needed.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

I guess I wasn't clear enough.

_Audi never installed a sub woofer in the none-Bose set up. _

If you have the centre speaker in the dash, then you also have an amp in the boot. And with that comes the wire loom that contains wires that carry the audio signal. That makes installing an active sub woofer an easy and quick exercise. Without that amp you'd have to tap the signal from behind the head unit and pull wires from the front to the back.


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

TT-driver said:


> I guess I wasn't clear enough.
> 
> _Audi never installed a sub woofer in the none-Bose set up. _


Again, thanks for clearing that up again - so I definitely don't have a sub !  Very useful to know you can tap into the amp to gain the audio feed, perfect. 



barry_m2 said:


> I put a sub in my boot (non bose). Originally I built an enclosure and put it in the spare wheel well but removed it as I am going to put a spare wheel in there now. So I bought a small wedge box and put my 10" sub in it. The amp it connected to the L&R fronts direct from the RNS-e and powers on when it detects a signal and off after a minute without a signal and lives under the boot floor. All works really well and makes so much difference to the sound which was much needed.


Great to hear it made a big difference, hooping it'll do the same for me when I get round to it and a new head unit. Did you keep your standard non-bose speakers ... ? I suspect they work quite well when they're just handling treble and leaving it for the sub to handle the bass.


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## barry_m2 (Jun 29, 2015)

CurryMan said:


> Great to hear it made a big difference, hooping it'll do the same for me when I get round to it and a new head unit. Did you keep your standard non-bose speakers ... ? I suspect they work quite well when they're just handling treble and leaving it for the sub to handle the bass.


Yes, I left everything as normal. All standard speakers are being powered by the standard Audi Amp. That's being fed from the back of the RNS-e. But I Found the RNS-e also had a L&R front out that was un-used, so I ran a line from there to a new amp (think it's a Pioneer I bought) for the sub.

Obviously not as earth shattering as I've had in previous cars but I only wanted it to improve the standard setup, and it does a good job of it. I thought the stock speakers actually gave an ok sound, just lacked a little base.


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

barry_m2 said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> > Great to hear it made a big difference, hooping it'll do the same for me when I get round to it and a new head unit. Did you keep your standard non-bose speakers ... ? I suspect they work quite well when they're just handling treble and leaving it for the sub to handle the bass.
> ...


Exactly what I wanted to hear (mind the pun!) that's convinced me I'll only need to add an active sub to the standard setup. I'm planning on the Pioneer one I posted earlier so as and when funds allow I'll report back.

Perfecto 8)


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## Stem (Jul 14, 2015)

CurryMan said:


> barry_m2 said:
> 
> 
> > CurryMan said:
> ...


Be great to see some pictures when you get it sorted - I quite fancy a bit more depth to the sound in my car. 
I had an AndyMac stealth sub enclosure in my A3 8p - 8" JL and Alpine amp replacing the Bose tupaware sub - made a huge difference.


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## Stem (Jul 14, 2015)

barry_m2 said:


> I put a sub in my boot (non bose). Originally I built an enclosure and put it in the spare wheel well but removed it as I am going to put a spare wheel in there now. So I bought a small wedge box and put my 10" sub in it. The amp it connected to the L&R fronts direct from the RNS-e and powers on when it detects a signal and off after a minute without a signal and lives under the boot floor. All works really well and makes so much difference to the sound which was much needed.


Do you have any pictures of this install Barry_m2?


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

Stem said:


> CurryMan said:
> 
> 
> > Exactly what I wanted to hear (mind the pun!) that's convinced me I'll only need to add an active sub to the standard setup. I'm planning on the Pioneer one I posted earlier so as and when funds allow I'll report back.
> ...


Will do!


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

Hello everyone.
Will the standard BOSE Sub work with the non-bose systems? I have the Concert stereo (Coupe) and it seems I can get a Bose sub quite cheap, should be a nice improvement if it works with the Concert system...


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## CurryMan (Nov 20, 2016)

Non-Bose setup here and had a InPhase USW8 active sub ­(6" cone) installed behind the rear passenger seat. Very slim and takes up minimal amount of space which can also fold down with bench if needed. Can really feel it when you want too and shakes the rear window at maximum.

Added the needed bass to compliment the Non-Bose system perfectly for my needs.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Stus74 said:


> Hello everyone.
> Will the standard BOSE Sub work with the non-bose systems? I have the Concert stereo (Coupe) and it seems I can get a Bose sub quite cheap, should be a nice improvement if it works with the Concert system...


There is no separate sub output on the standard amp, so the answer is no, it won't work.

An active sub (like the one above) is probably the most cost effective way to go.


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

happychappy said:


> Stus74 said:
> 
> 
> > Hello everyone.
> ...


Fantastic, thanks both for the replies. I was also considering an active sub, seems it's the way to go indeed.
Couple of other questions (not sure if this should be addressed to another thread, just couldn't find clear answers after a search):
a) one of my front woofers (16.5cm) isn't working so instead of replacing it I'm considering upgrading to aftermarket 8" coaxials. I don't mind moving the tweeters lower as I'm tone deaf on high frequencies anyway. Will I need to calibrate the stereo somehow? Some say that Audi has done a lot of research to make the stereo work ideally, most complain about poor sound. So I don't know what to think. I'm satisfied by the stock sound, wouldn't mind upgrading it a bit, I just don't want to downgrade it. Is there such risk with aftermarket speakers?
b) many suggest the first thing to improve is the head unit, are these OEM android systems any good?


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I personally wouldn't add full range speakers where the 8" bass speaker is, especially if you continue to use the standard head unit, amp and other speakers, it will distort and confuse the sound.

8" bass units (not sub units) are quite rare and only a handful of manufacturers sell them, off the top of my head look at Audison, Focal and a left field suggestion Dayton Audio.

A head unit upgrade is the best way to increase control and functions over the standard unit, I would steer clear of the Xtron units as they seem to be exhibiting some peculiar problems in the last few reports I have read about them, namely the nemesis of all audio installers - ground earthing noise issues.


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

happychappy said:


> I personally wouldn't add full range speakers where the 8" bass speaker is, especially if you continue to use the standard head unit, amp and other speakers, it will distort and confuse the sound.
> 
> 8" bass units (not sub units) are quite rare and only a handful of manufacturers sell them, off the top of my head look at Audison, Focal and a left field suggestion Dayton Audio.
> 
> A head unit upgrade is the best way to increase control and functions over the standard unit, I would steer clear of the Xtron units as they seem to be exhibiting some peculiar problems in the last few reports I have read about them, namely the nemesis of all audio installers - ground earthing noise issues.


Indeed I've found 8" speakers by Focal (and a couple of other reputable manufacturers) but they're a bit out of my price range at the moment (300 euros including installation). There are more affordable options (Hertz) but those are midrange speakers, not woofers, meaning they don't hit the low end frequencies as the stock speakers do.


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

Stus74 said:


> Some say that Audi has done a lot of research to make the stereo work ideally, most complain about poor sound. So I don't know what to think.


Just my opinion, but my impression is BOSE's goal is to provide acoustic "fidelity" (meaning reproduction of sounds the way the way they were recorded) and for the most part, I think they achieve that (at least as well as can be expected in an automotive environment anyway...) But a BOSE system cannot provide the 'scooped-mids' / booming bass that many people like, (and therefore gets dismissed by some).

But it is also my opinion that a generation who grew up with earbuds at birth likely suffers from some hearing damage, and don't have a clue what things should actually sound like so... 
[smiley=jester.gif]


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

I don't have the BOSE system, I have Concert (meaning amplified 16.5cm speakers in front and back, no sub). I don't like scooped mids, just scooped trebs, lol


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Have you thought about going for S/H speakers?

For example Dynaudio Make 8" bass units, I believe that they were fitted as an upgrade on some VW Golfs

My other suggestion is Dayton Audio, they make many different units, all seem to be pretty well received, take a look at this site for some speaker ideas.

https://www.soundimports.eu/en/brands/d ... gJvwfD_BwE

What do you hope to achieve and what is your budget.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

FNChaos said:


> Stus74 said:
> 
> 
> > Some say that Audi has done a lot of research to make the stereo work ideally, most complain about poor sound. So I don't know what to think.
> ...


Nice bit of youngster baiting there!  

In my opinion Bose is far from the worst sound, but equally, is just as far from audio nirvana too... 

I say that as an oldie with two pairs of their top end headphones...but I still prefer my Sennheiser and B&W cans.....


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## FNChaos (Nov 30, 2016)

happychappy said:


> Nice bit of youngster baiting there!


 [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

happychappy said:


> Nice bit of youngster baiting there!


I'm 46, in my prime! (hence 'Stus74'), lol

As far as budget and what I want to achieve, to be honest the stock system doesn't sound bad, it's just that one of the front speakers isn't working. So while looking into options for replacing that I started considering the sub since I bumped into a Bose Sub on Ebay that was super cheap. But as you guys said that won't work with the stock Concert system so scratch that idea and let's look into options for the front speakers, lol.
In your opinion is it worth looking for 20cm speakers considering they fit, or I might be just as well with 16.5cm speakers?
Regarding SH speakers, this is what I'm looking into:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/150-Watt-20-cm ... SwxtVcWyB0

and:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20cm-2-Wege-Ca ... SwvapcStM-

...without an aftermarket amp for the time being.


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## SwissJetPilot (Apr 27, 2014)

For both the Coupe and Roadster, the Bose Amps is located on the back side of the left wheel well. If the vehicle doesn't have an Amp in this location, you could buy the OEM mount (P/N 8J0035464) from eBay, modify it as necessary, and fit your amp in this space. The pictures shown below of the black mounting plate for the Alpine Amp are from a Mk1 but concept would be the same for a Mk2.


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## ab54666 (Nov 18, 2019)

Audison speakers are very good, had them in a number of previous cars.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Stus74 said:


> happychappy said:
> 
> 
> > Nice bit of youngster baiting there!
> ...


At 46 you are catching us oldies up quite nicely... 

I have looked at your links and am afraid to say that I have no experience of either set.

Regards 8" or 6.5" I would say that if going for a powered sub then the 6.5" speakers will be fine, if You are not going with the powered sub then I would lean towards the 8"

If it was me I would firstly confirm that it's definitely the speaker that's faulty and not the amp, if it's the speaker then replace that with a s/h one and then look for a powered sub.

If it's the amp then we will need to discuss further.

Good luck


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

SwissJetPilot said:


> For both the Coupe and Roadster, the Bose Amps is located on the back side of the left wheel well. If the vehicle doesn't have an Amp in this location, you could buy the OEM mount (P/N 8J0035464) from eBay, modify it as necessary, and fit your amp in this space. I would imagine every vehicle comes with the mounting studs already in place. The nuts are called out as 'hexagon collar nut' - M6, P/N - N01508213.
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> ...


Hi Swiss

For the record the Alpine SPC-400TT set that's intended for the bottom of the range system (Chorus?) actually contains an amp board the same as in the pictures above as the Chorus didn't have an amp as standard.

The SPC-400TT sets intended for the Concert system and above do NOT contain an amp board as there is one fitted already and so you have to re-drill this to mount the Alpine amp.

A bit of useless information, but information none the least.


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Hi! I was hesitant to ask as I don't want to mess up the post, but since you are talking about the convenience of fitting 8" or 6,5" with a sub, hope you don't mind if I ask: Is it worth to fit one of those slim 8" active subs like the Pioneer TS-WX130EA (can be installed under seat) or the InPhase USW8 previously mentioned if you have already upgraded the front speakers with 3 way sets? (Alpine's from the SPC-400TT in my case) Do they add anything to the soundstage that can't be delivered by the 8" of the doors?



happychappy said:


> .... I would steer clear of the Xtron units as they seem to be exhibiting some peculiar problems in the last few reports I have read about them, namely the nemesis of all audio installers - ground earthing noise issues.


Indeed. I have an Xtrons myself and since upgrading the amp it's been a nightmare. Horrible hiss and alternator noise. Tried EMF's and changing earth point, but didn't solve it really. Feeding the HU from the battery got rid from alternator noise but it still has a very annoying hiss. I am waiting for the next problem to give up and throw it away. I have kept it because I have invested a lot of time in it (upgraded sw, firmware, motherboard, front & rear cameras, tpms and so on...) and because it keeps factory look... but it isn't really worth it. I'd rather buy a Pioneer or Alpine hands down if I have to change the HU again.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Hi Pedracca, hope you are all keeping well.

Regards the active self powered slim subs they definitely do add a depth that's not there with the standard or even upgraded Alpine SPC-400TT speaker system, but it's all subjective, like the head unit argument, you get what you pay for.

At the moment I am running a hybrid Alpine (SPC three way speaker set)/DLS (amp)/CDT (sub) system with a Pioneer head unit.

I always feared that the Alpine SPC set, whilst a vast upgrade over the standard system, was not going to address my demanding requirements and a separate sub was always on the cards.

After installing the Alpine system I was satisfied, but only to a point and knew almost immediately that some depth was needing to be added, so the journey continued. I am still playing with subs at the moment and am currently happy with a 12" CDT, but it's only temporary as it causes integration problems - although the box is only .63 CuFt it's the depth of the magnets that are stopping below floor installation...grrrr, such a great speaker as well.

I would definitely add a powered sub to the SPC system to allow it to breath a little easier, it's amazing what a good sub can do, from the lows to the highs sounds will be much more enjoyable.

A point to note is that set up us the key! A friend and myself initially dialled in an SQ tune to the system which sounded great, even with a baby 8"CDT (I do love this brand) subwoofer. However once on the move with the roof down the sound was completely destroyed, so a re-tune was needed. I am now nearing a place of reasonable satisfaction so will be moving onto the next stage - upgraded front comps (bye bye Alpine,,,) and custom tweeter pods, that's after completing the subwoofer install, a JL Audio TW range sub seems to be the current favourite.


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## Stus74 (May 30, 2020)

happychappy said:


> Regards 8" or 6.5" I would say that if going for a powered sub then the 6.5" speakers will be fine, if You are not going with the powered sub then I would lean towards the 8"
> 
> If it was me I would firstly confirm that it's definitely the speaker that's faulty and not the amp, if it's the speaker then replace that with a s/h one and then look for a powered sub.
> 
> ...


That is good advice thank you. If I went for the 2-way component Focals I'd eventually look into getting a separate amp anyway considering the speakers would benefit from it. My understanding is that the Audi amp only amplifies the front speakers whilst the back speakers are self-amplified, correct?


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

Thank you @happychappy!

I do feel that there is some bass missing with the SPC kit, but I'd really like to keep it simple with this car. I once went crazy with my last car (147 GTA with Rainbow profi fronts, vanadium sub, JL HD amp, bit ten) and when the time to sell it came I really felt that the time and money I spent wasn't worth it and that I'd never do it again.... And I'm really trying to stand to my own promise 

That's why I was thinking that an all-in-one package would do the trick for me if it isn't crazy money and is easy to install, but I didn't know if you could really notice those tiny subs with the door setup the TT already has.

I'm afraid the Pioneer mentioned might be a bit short maybe? Been looking at the CDT Minimax 400 but it doesn't seem to be easy to buy those in Spain, neither online. Do you know of any active subwoofers in this form factor you would recommend?

Thank you!


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Stus74 said:


> happychappy said:
> 
> 
> > Regards 8" or 6.5" I would say that if going for a powered sub then the 6.5" speakers will be fine, if You are not going with the powered sub then I would lean towards the 8"
> ...


The T32 connector has pin in/outs for the rear speakers to suggest that the rear components are powered by the amp, unless there is some form of bypass, that's highly unlikely though.










However, I am a keen advocate that rear speakers are unnecessary in a stereo audio system, they diffuse the sound and create more problems than they cure.

A good quality head unit with adjustable parameters such as time alignment, a useable equaliser and selectable crossover points is far more important, I never use the rear speakers in any in car system as I can achieve what I want without them.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

pedracca said:


> Thank you @happychappy!
> 
> I do feel that there is some bass missing with the SPC kit, but I'd really like to keep it simple with this car. I once went crazy with my last car (147 GTA with Rainbow profi fronts, vanadium sub, JL HD amp, bit ten) and when the time to sell it came I really felt that the time and money I spent wasn't worth it and that I'd never do it again.... And I'm really trying to stand to my own promise
> 
> ...


I suspect that the Alfa audio sound was nearly as good as the engine/exhaust (insert big thumbs up  ).

In all honesty audio - car/home stereo/AV etc etc is always a money loser but you must judge this by the pleasure received along the way, how many people buy a TT for £10k and then sell it three years later for £5k?

Second hand/ex dem is a good way to purchase, but only from reputable sellers, especially so where car audio is concerned as equipment can all so often be abused by the user who quite often tend to be younger and more enthusiastic with volume controls... 

Regards an under seat powered sub I am not too familiar with any particular models as they are a little inflexible and frowned upon (rightly or wrongly) by in car audio enthusiasts. I do have experience of a slim powered sub from Rockford Fosfate that sits behind the seat in a coupe that was quite impressive but this was an older model and now unavailable.

This brings on a question, why go slim sub in the first place? The largest tend to be 8" and as I mentioned already my 8" CDT conventional high quality speaker unit in a correct box and supplied with the correct and quality power was ok whilst stationary, but as soon as on the move and more so roof down the sound fell away, this is in a roadster though, the results will be different in a coupe.

Why not go full sized (10" or 12") and attach a suitable amp to the sub box? A quick connect plug to enable fast removal if you are going shopping and it's job done?

Sorry I am unable to recommend a specific unit/brand of slim powered sub but I will only ever recommend products I have heard myself or on occasions recommended by friends with ears I trust.

Uodate

I have just looked at the spec of the CDT Minimax 400 and on paper it's impressive, I was speaking to them a few weeks back about distributors around the world and they are currently seeking more resellers to cover countries they don't cover already. Its such a shame as CDT are a great sounding, reliable, high sound quality brand and are sadly not visible in many parts of Europe, they really are a great company that deserve more support, but then they are one amongst many.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components ... max400.php


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## TTsdsgomg (Mar 19, 2013)

happychappy said:


> Stus74 said:
> 
> 
> > Hello everyone.
> ...


'happychappy' hoping to tap into your expertise/experience in things audio. Could 'Stus74' install the custom audi bose/bass unit as this would fit nicely and then tap a speaker/line out feed from any headunit to send to a small amp to drive it. I only pose the question as I have a bose system which i'm pretty happy with, but as you have mentioned we all have different expectations of what a good sound is. :? 
Also are you aware of any plug&play upgrades you could make to a factory bose amp setup.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

The Bose sub (which I believe is unpowered) could be made to work in the way you have described, many aftermarket amps use speaker level inputs, so yes, you could tap off the existing T32 connector to an aftermarket amp that has the ability to use speaker level inputs and the power the Bose sub.

But, isn't there always a but  , would it really be worthwhile? The Bose sub powered by a Bose amp is no doubt eq'ed to work to its optimum via the Bose amp, these parameters are not user adjustable to my knowledge so quite possibly a Bose sub using an aftermarket amp may well sound not so good.

This is where Digital Sound Processing (DSP) comes into play, there are many variations on a theme, some built into head units, some built into amps and some are stand alone designed to work with standard car audio systems, some brands to research are JL Audio, Audison, Helix amongst many others.

Regards a Bose upgrade there is an amp with built in DSP that I would recommend, but it aint cheap! It's a Zapco ADSP-Z8 that I recommended on here sometime back.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1886971

Here's a video of one being installed in a Mk2 TT Coupe by Peter, who I would wholeheartedly recommend to install it should you wish to proceed, he has also completed a mega install in another friends Mk1 TT, it's totally amazing!


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## pedracca (Dec 8, 2016)

happychappy said:


> ...
> In all honesty audio - car/home stereo/AV etc etc is always a money loser but you must judge this by the pleasure received along the way, how many people buy a TT for £10k and then sell it three years later for £5k?
> ...


It always amazes me the second hand market prices you've got in UK... here in my country they are roughly double of that [smiley=bigcry.gif]



happychappy said:


> ...
> This brings on a question, why go slim sub in the first place? The largest tend to be 8" and as I mentioned already my 8" CDT conventional high quality speaker unit in a correct box and supplied with the correct and quality power was ok whilst stationary, but as soon as on the move and more so roof down the sound fell away, this is in a roadster though, the results will be different in a coupe.
> 
> Why not go full sized (10" or 12") and attach a suitable amp to the sub box? A quick connect plug to enable fast removal if you are going shopping and it's job done?
> ...


I don't have any experience calculating size or characteristics of the box (sealed, ported..) so I would mess it up for sure... Compactness is more geared towards my wife not complaining than real cargo needs. I use the TT for job commute so I barely use the trunk. I thought a tiny sub in a package that doesn't attract his attention could do it if it really suits the rest of the equipment 

Thank you anyway!


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

I agree totally about car prices in the UK, utter madness.

Regards messing up a box, no you won't, it's simple! Check out Sub Box or the Rockford Fosgate website for box sizes, you can play with box sizes/shapes to your hearts content.

Get the tech (TSP - Thiele Small Parameters) from the speaker site and work from there

https://subbox.pro/en/bass-box/

https://rockfordfosgate.com/support/box-wizard/

Any probs I will always try to advise.

Not saying the 8" slimline all in ones are totally useless, just compromised slightly in comparison to a full size conventional box with a larger speaker, but there are always around this....


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## lukeyboi89 (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi guys,

some good advice in here but i am seeking some more clarification..

i have a TTS 2009 non bose with aftermarket headunit and upgraded focal door card speakers... and yes i think they are designed to be used with a sub, therefore the bass is attrocious. (coming from a 2010 a3 with bose setup)

the simple solution as mentioned in here is to hook an active sub into the oem amp in the rear of the car, i have the speaker in the middle of the front dash, so assuming in have the oem amp....

i dont think it was mentioned previously, but what wires need to be tapped into on the oem non bose amp, to connect to an active subwoofer? such as the inphase active underseat subwoofer mentioned previously? i have no experience with active subs only passive ones..

also, the oem non bose amp is installed in the same location as the bose amp i assume yes?

many thanks,

Luke


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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

I put an 8" down firing sub in along with front speakers and tweeters. The extra bass made all the difference. It's not that hard with the factory amp and battery right there in the back. I tapped into the rear speaker amp input wires and made RCA's to feed the aftermarket amp. There's an amp turn on wire as well.


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

Hi,

you can find wiring diagrams with colors for the various systems in the knowledge base.
Here's a short description how I made it with non-Bose RNS-E:
I made a wiring harness to chain an aftermarket amplifier with DSP into the original wiring harness. The 38-pin plug that's connected to the OEM amplifier can actually be separated, giving you one plug with power & speaker connections and another one with line signals, remote and CAN-bus. I've unpinned the CAN-bus connectors and connected them directly to the OEM amplifier, and the rest connects to the aftermarket amp. That way the wiring harness can be reverted to original state without any cut and resoldered wires.
The line level signals are easy to identify as they're all on one side of the smaller plug and twisted with their corresponding ground connections.
Colors in my case are:
* blue - Front Left
* green - Rear Left
* yellow - Front Right
* red - Rear Right

Peter


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## lukeyboi89 (Jun 12, 2011)

cas5259 said:


> I put an 8" down firing sub in along with front speakers and tweeters. The extra bass made all the difference. It's not that hard with the factory amp and battery right there in the back. I tapped into the rear speaker amp input wires and made RCA's to feed the aftermarket amp. There's an amp turn on wire as well.


do you happen to have any pictures of what wires need tapping into with the rear amp? i dont have a wiring diagram to know which ones i need access too..

thanks


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## cas5259 (Mar 17, 2020)

This should help. Here's the non Bose connector.









Pinout. 27-30 and 35-38 are what you're looking for. I just tapped into the rear line level input, which are 27, 28, 35, 36.

34 is switched power, which you can use to turn on your aftermarket amp.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Slightly off topic, but for those installing a completely new stand alone amp and wanting it to be/look as OEM as possible you can purchase a Porsche Parrot adaptor from eBay and cut the unused wiring/adaptors off leaving you with the male plug with the securing handle/clip.

Just use the bare tails to connect to your amp, in the correct order of course!

Search "Porsche" Parrot", they are available from around £20, beware of some chancers that list at up to £70 though! I paid about £18 all in.


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

@happychappy, that is the 32 pin connector used for bose. Non bose systems have a 38-pin connector. The difference is in the smaller section of the connector.

Peter


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

Thats correct, the 16 pin or 10 pin smaller section clips in/out so it's easy to remove/install/use this adaptor.

Whatever it's used for a set of release pin tools is essential.


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## lukeyboi89 (Jun 12, 2011)

cas5259 said:


> This should help. Here's the non Bose connector.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


brilliant! thanks so much


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

Yes, but as the line level signals are on the 16 pin connector that 32 pin adapter doesn't help to access these. I've searched for a 38 pin adapter a few weeks ago but didn't find one. The 16 pin connector has a standard 2.54mm contact spacing, so cheap pcb connectors can be used if you don't want to cut any original wiring.
If you want to power your speakers with an aftermarket amp these adapters are great.


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## happychappy (Feb 9, 2015)

@piti. You seem to have lost the gist of my post, it was to give information on where to obtain an original replacement amp connector.

The smaller 10/16 connector is easily removed from the original connector on the car and will fit into a replacement with ease to suit the application, that being Bose it non Bose.

I looked long and hard to locate the loom I linked, just happened upon it when looking for something else and thought it might be useful for other owners.


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## piti (Oct 10, 2018)

I know that the 10/16 pin part can be removed easily. I just wanted to point out that an adapter with 32 pins will not give you the 16 pin part. So if you want to tap into the line level wires (which was the last question here) it doesn't help.
If you want to tap into the speaker signals, then it's great. So for powering original speakers with an external amp or using it for high level inputs I would definitely use such an adaptor.


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## AudiTT's4EVA (Jan 18, 2021)

@cas5259,

Please can you post that photo of the rear amplifier wiring loom colours again?

I'm not sure if this is the case for others but it is quite pixelated and hard to make out from my end.

Many thanks,
Nick


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