# TT MK2 Folding Mirrors on Door Lock/Unlock



## Hadaak

Hi guys,

any info in VAGCOM on this?
or anyone did the mod: open/fold the mirrors when opening/closing the door or starting/stopping the engine or any other trick !!! the folding mirrors on the TT are a pain to use :x


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## Toshiba

Unfortunately its not possible on the MKII.


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## Hadaak

what about hacking the wiring and connecting it to the ignition !!!!

16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)

1 - Mirror status position X (only with seat memory fitted)

2 - Mirror terminal 31, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

3 - Mirror supply, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction

5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction

6- Vacant

7 - Mirror heating

8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)

9 - Mirror status position Y (only with seat memory fitted)

10- Vacant

11 - Mirror terminal 31

12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction

13- Vacant

14 - Mirror folding motor -

15 - Mirror folding motor +

16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)


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## Hadaak

Just reviving this in case anybody is interested. I plan to look into making them fold at least with key IN/OUT + Plus a switch in case you're in a tight spot and don't want to unfold them before moving out...

I think it's easy in terme of wiring as both mirros are wired to the button on the drivers's door.... no I don't know how easy/difficult to get to that button to do some testing...


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## mailrush

Hadaak said:


> Just reviving this in case anybody is interested. I plan to look into making the mirrors at least with key IN/OUT + Plus a switch in case you're in a tight spot and don't want to unfold them before moving out...


Ye would definately be interested if you could get something working! 8)

Would be great if the mirrors folded/unfolded on the lock/unlock. Alot of aftermarket alarm systems have similar functions (e.g. window closure, sunroof closure, mirror fold etc). I know nothing about automotive electronics but perhaps something similar could be done??? :?


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## Hadaak

found this:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/26034 ... ystem.html

to be continued...


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## phil3012

Just a thought is there nothing in the SEAT parts bin that would do it?

I had auto folding mirrors on my MY08 Leon Cupra, the switch inside was almost identical. I was very surprised when the TT mirrors didn't fold in from the key fob.


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## Hadaak

I'm not familiar with SEAT.
here is what I have found out so far:
2 options: 
Option 1: fold on key fob: you need a relay that should be powered same as the interior light bulbs => when you lock the car the light go off and the relay folds the mirrors

Option 2 : Fold on ignition off => You need a relay that should be powered off the ignition (swithched live).

the realy is this one : 12VDC ref 081623-62










To be continued...


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## mailrush

Hadaak said:


> I'm not familiar with SEAT.
> here is what I have found out so far:
> 2 options:
> Option 1: fold on key fob: you need a relay that should be powered same as the interior light bulbs => when you lock the car the light go off and the relay folds the mirrors
> 
> Option 2 : Fold on ignition off => You need a relay that should be powered off the ignition (swithched live).
> To be continued...


Definately would say option 1 if its possible!

The amount of times I need to check the mirror for oncoming traffic before opening the door. Also looks cool when you lock it they fold in...

I know nothing about auto electronics. HOW possible is it?


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## Hadaak

the two suspect pins are :

14 - Mirror folding motor -
15 - Mirror folding motor +

As soon as I get to the 16 pin connector (behind the door trim) I will be measuring voltage output on these pins.


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## d1will

i would love to get this done on mine!
I await ur research!
cheers


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## GhosTTy

At last! Another meaty modding project. I'll be following this with interest.


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## Creature

Any News On This? It has almost been a year since last post. Very Interested, especially since thiking of getting a new TT soon.


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## electech

Hadaak said:


> 2 options:
> Option 1: fold on key fob: you need a relay that should be powered same as the interior light bulbs => when you lock the car the light go off and the relay folds the mirrors
> 
> Option 2 : Fold on ignition off => You need a relay that should be powered off the ignition (switched live)
> 
> How about powering the relay off the door lock on the drivers side, so that when you press the key fob to open or close the door, the mirrors would go in and out.


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## electech

Oooops!!!!! just realised my deliberate mistake so please ignore previous post.
I realised that when driving the car the automatic door lock, (if that option on the DIS has been selected) would operate and the mirrors would fold in.


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## V6RUL

I may be looking into this in the near future so i may be able to add something positive soon.
Steve


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## Creature

I look forward to hearing any news as this is a major pain in the a**!


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## V6RUL

Im a MK1er doing a MK2 mirror install, so i will have to go through a full install proccess.
Mirrors will be folding on a manual switch or engine off.
Steve


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## Creature

Hello again all,

I have been searcing the internet and found this blurb on a site about auto folding mirrors on audi cars, however being a complete VAGCOM biff and not owning VAGCOM I do not know if it will work, can anyone shed any light on this?

Enabling reverse mirror tilt on cars without memory seats: Go to module 52 Door Elect, Pass., Long Coding, Byte 4. If the byte has value 40 (cars without electrically folding mirrors), change it to 4C. If the byte has value 50 (cars with folding or folding/dimming mirrors), change it to 5C. Afterwards when reversing and the mirror knob is in passenger position the passenger side mirror will tilt while on reverse to better show the curb. Without memory seats it is currently not known if the tilt can be adjusted, it seems to default to a standard amount according to reports (see links below, thanks to EuroDan and Unisurfer). It was reported by -V- (here in Finnish: http://www.ultimatevw.com/keskustelu/in ... 3&sivu=185) that 4C won't work in some cars, but value 44 instead does. This probably has to do with equipment levels. Ross-Tech has updated their VCDS/VAG-COM software data to include relevant bits with descriptions, so you can more easily try different combinations.

Sorry if I am being a biff and it is obvious it does not work but I have not the foggiest.

Dan


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## MD1984

Found a company who fit them, 'Hazzy Dayz LTD' , their website is VW cruise.com. They advertise OEM Folding mirrors retrofit for near £900. Very interested, waiting until after christmas to see what spare cash I have.. I assume when they say on there website OEM folding mirrors they mean electric, although not obvious from there listing. I will contact them closer the time. They are the only company that I have found so far that advertise this retrofit!

Hope that helps, will post if I change my ming and get them done earlier, Thirst things first is to get them ugly standard audi calipers painted and rust protected!

Hope that helps.


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## Creature

I think the mirrors on the vw cruise website are the standard TT electrically adjustable and electrically folding mirrors not auto-fold on engine off.

Anyone willing to try the code for VAGCOM above or tell me if it has been tried before?

Regards,

Dan


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## V6RUL

Ive purchased my MK2 mirrors and ECU, so i will be looking into the auto folding option with ignition control and manual override.
Steve


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## Naresh

Hadaak said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> any info in VAGCOM on this?
> or anyone did the mod: open/fold the mirrors when opening/closing the door or starting/stopping the engine or any other trick !!! the folding mirrors on the TT are a pain to use :x


Hi I've done this mod on my wife's 2007 Civic which already has eletrically folding mirrors. The mirrors now fold in automatically when you lock the car. There is also a switch to deactivate the feature if necessary. Very cool when you get it working. 8)


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## Hadaak

How did you acheive that? Did you use any devices or just did you reprogram the Civic ECU.
Thanks.


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## d1will

£900 seems a bit steep to me although i know nothing about vagcom!

has anyone found a way to actually do this yet as lots of people keep talking about "looking into it".

Not that i'm having a go as i don't have a scooby about how to do it but would love to if somebody manages to actually do it!

i look forward to a "how-to"!


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## Hadaak

will be looking into it soon :mrgreen: just haven't had the time to.
major requirement : a way to detect car lock/unlock command somewhere near the door lock and send that pulse or voltage to the relay i plan to use. if anybody has info on how to intercept the car lock/unlock action I can speed up things.


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## V6RUL

Ive already got my folders to fit, its just getting round to do it..hopefully soon.
Steve


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## Hadaak

steve, what are trying to do exactly? 
installing mk2 mirrors on mk1 or making electrically folding mirrors fold/unfold on car lock/unlock?


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## Hadaak

electech said:


> Oooops!!!!! just realised my deliberate mistake so please ignore previous post.
> I realised that when driving the car the automatic door lock, (if that option on the DIS has been selected) would operate and the mirrors would fold in.


good point ! so we need some other place or some other condition. maybe the indicators' pulse on locking/unlocking the car !

we still have the option engine ON/OFF.


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## V6RUL

Hadaak said:


> steve, what are trying to do exactly?
> installing mk2 mirrors on mk1 or making electrically folding mirrors fold/unfold on car lock/unlock?


They are not MK2 mirrors, they are from another source.
They will operate from the ignition on/off and with an overide switch.
Steve


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## Hadaak

OK. o*verride* is the key to folding/unfolding on car lock/unlock ! thanks for the word  
=> 1 relay to fold/unfold on car lock/unlock
= > a second relay to block folding/unfolding when engine starts.

You can always use the oem switch to override the whole thing.


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## Hadaak

Hold on guys ! I think I found it : 69€ :mrgreen: 
I sent an email to the guys to inquire about compatibility with the TT with electrically folding mirrors.

http://www.carmodule.de/index.php?modul ... _ID=P16791


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## Hadaak

just got an email from the guys selling the module. it should work with the TT, they said. And you can get your money back in 15 days if it doesn't  so I will order one and let you know.


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## MXS

Hadaak said:


> just got an email from the guys selling the module. it should work with the TT, they said. And you can get your money back in 15 days if it doesn't  so I will order one and let you know.


Sounds good. please keep us posted.


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## Hadaak

well, after reading the installation manual (my german is not that good-looking  ) I'm not sure it's gonna be a plug&play thing. I have to check the TT mirror wiring to make sure it will work. Will try checking all this this weekend.


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## Hadaak

found another product here. look for the reflex model:

http://www.autowindow.com/


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## Hadaak

just a positive note : when you're driving you cannot fold the mirror with the switch. so this solves the mirror fold issue when the car starts rolling and the doors are locked automatically.

To be continued.


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## Hadaak

Weekend is almost here and I will be opening the door to look at the wiring.
here is the pinout of the connector on the driver's side. just in case anybody is inspired 

what I plan is :

Get a trigger from door lock/unlock (12v) and send it through a relay (5 pin SPDT) to the mirror folding switch.

Issues are :

1. door is auto-locked when car starts moving (5 or 10 km/h) => possible solution: Mirrors don't fold when you turn the swith and the car is moving => what heppens if you bypass the switch (see issue number 2)

2. The mirros don't fold if you take out the key from ignition and you oepn the door. => How to power the mirror motor if the power cut is done on the mirror motor line and not simply on the switch.

3. Door can be locked/unlocked with a swith inside the car (drivers side) => how to override this switch

I will see how these isues can be solved this weekend.

Now the pinout:

*Connectors, door control unit, driver side -J386*

*20-pin connector (supply, lock)*

1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)

2 - CL motor SAFE

3 - CL feedback locked/safe

4 - CL outside door handle

5- Vacant

6- Vacant

7 - CL terminal 31

8 - CAN - High

9 - CAN - Low

10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)

11 - CL motor SAFE/lock

12 - CL terminal 30

13 - CL keyswitch close/open

14- Vacant

15 - CL door contact switch

16 - CL motor unlock

17- Vacant

18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)

19 - WL terminal 31

20 - WL terminal 30

*
16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)*

1 - Mirror status position X (only with seat memory fitted)

2 - Mirror terminal 31, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

3 - Mirror supply, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction

5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction

6- Vacant

7 - Mirror heating

8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)

9 - Mirror status position Y (only with seat memory fitted)

10- Vacant

11 - Mirror terminal 31

12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction

13- Vacant

14 - Mirror folding motor -

15 - Mirror folding motor +

16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)

*32-pin connector (to door trim)*

1 - BE - Exit/warning lamp

2 - BE - Terminal 31 (2) (AWL)

3 - BF - Window lifter button rear right

4 - BE - Terminal 31 (1) (AWL)

5 - CL SAFE LED

6 - BE - Terminal 58b (1)

7 - BF - Interior locking button (LOCK/UNLOCK)

8 - BF - Window lifter button front right (local)

9- Vacant

10 - Memory button + emergency off button (only with seat memory fitted)

11 - Memory position buttons (only with seat memory fitted)

12 - BF - Tailgate remote release button (only in 5-door, USA)

13 - Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)

14 - BE - Interior door handle illumination

15- Vacant

16 - Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring)

17 - Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor)

18 - CL - Inside door handle (not implemented)

19 - BF - Mirror adjustment L/R

20 - BF - Mirror adjustment X/Y

21 - BF - Window lifter button rear right (local)

22 - BE - Terminal 58b (2) (mirror adjuster switch)

23 - BE - Terminal 58b (3) (mirror/stowage illumination)

24 - BF - Window lifter button front left (local)

25- Vacant

26 - BF - Child lock

27 - Memory supply terminal 30

28 - BF - Button for tank lid unlock

29 - BF - Mirror heating

30 - Button for interior monitoring

31 - LED - Interior locking button (LOCK)

32 - LED - Child lock button


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## MXS

Good luck! Let me know how it goes.


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## haulfast

deleted I know nothing i have been told


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## V6RUL

Fiesta mirrors, now that's a coincidence.
Steve


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## Hadaak

OK. I tore the door to pieces today  
Result : door trim easy to remove. you need two audi or vag tools or something equivalent (see pics)
Mod is a bit complicated to achieve the switch is not active once you remove the key and open the door. 
I tried shorting the pins on the switch connector with key removed and door opened and this confirms it.
I still do not know if this power cut involves the mirror motors or only the switch => I mean if the motors are still powered when you open the door and they just need a pulse to fold/unfold or there is no power in the motor wires and you need to power them first and then fold them.

The 20 pin connector has constant power even if you remove the key and open the door. but I didn't test it it will still have constant power after a period of time (20 mn or so) when the main computer cuts everything off.
I would say constant power is available all time because when you unlock the door and keep the unlock button pressed the windows roll down automatically. but this doesn't mean that the powering and rolling of the windows is not done instantly by the computer the moment you press the unlock button.

and hey, while writing this a bulb flashed over my head  if the 20 pins connector (pin 19-20) are powered when you unlock the car I can use these two pins to power the mirror motors  I just hope I won't have to keep the unlock button pressed to get power on the these two pins. this will mean the windows will start rolling too 

are you following 

step one is : get power from pin 19/20 and route it to the mirror motors. If the mirror motors need power for a few seconds only, meaning you cannot give them constant ower otherwise they they will keep turning and fry up quickly we will need to put a timer relay on those two pins with enough time for the motor to fold/unlfold. 
If the mirros motors have a contact somewhere which stops them from spinning one they get to the max that would be cool and means we don't need a timer relay.

still following 

suppose motors are not smart enough to know they have reached max folding/unfolding position and power is constant on the 19/20 pins of the connector I will proceed like this:

Add a timer relay which is triggered by the lock/unlock line (Pin 11 - CL motor SAFE/lock and Pin 16 - CL motor unlock). 
If the the relay gets 12v from any of these pins it will route power to the motors and trigger the folding/unfolding. I might need another realy for triggering the folding. Then it's just a matter of matching the lock/unlock trigger and the mirror position.
I will draw a nice picture of all of this when it"s all clear and finished.

I ddin't have time to do all the testing) so I will give it another try tomorrow of next weekend.
The clips in the door trim are really hard to remove and once removed you have to change them I think because I couldn't reinstall the the trim correctly. the clips just don't sit back corerctly after having been ripped off


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## Hadaak

Some pics to prove I did tear the TT to pieces now


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## haulfast

deleted I have been told I KNOW NOTHING


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## IC_HOTT

brilliant Hadaak, excellent write up and thanks so far . . . .

Just going back to the door switch that folds the mirror ! - have you monitored/checked how that operates the folding to use a relay to auto replicate it ?

I suspect the mirrors have an end stop micro switch btw so they wont just keep folding, and when youve done all the research I am looking forward to doing the mod myself :wink:

wonder if there is room in the bottom of the body of the mirror to insert a downward looking camera for the kerb view parking mod ?


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## Hadaak

grasmere said:


> brilliant Hadaak, excellent write up and thanks so far . . . .
> 
> Just going back to the door switch that folds the mirror ! - have you monitored/checked how that operates the folding to use a relay to auto replicate it ?


Thanks !
The mirror switch has four pins. if you close (connect) the first and third one the mirrors fold. if you disconnect them the mirros unfold.










Tried this with ignition off and door open and it doesn't work.

I was planning to use a relay which is triggered by the lock/unlock pulse and closes or opens these two pins. but this will not work once you get out of the car. So if the mirror motors are still powered and only the switch gets disconnected by the main computer I will have to find another way to send the open/close to the motors. maybe by inverting polarity. I don't know anything about these motors so it'll be trial and error and maybe frying and terror :mrgreen:



> I suspect the mirrors have an end stop micro switch btw so they wont just keep folding,


I thought about that. Will reduce the number of relays needed if the motors are built that way.



> wonder if there is room in the bottom of the body of the mirror to insert a downward looking camera for the kerb view parking mod ?


I haven't received my cameras yet so that mod will wait :mrgreen: I didn't open the mirrors themselves but I think I will do that soon so I can test how the motors work. Any info on these motors is welcome :wink:


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## MXS

Excellant work, keep the info. coming


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## Hadaak

anyone have the part number of this clip (door trim clip):
I searched in ETKA (2009 version) but couldn't find it. maybe I'm too tired with all this [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## Hadaak

Found it  = 6Q0868243


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## Hadaak

I removed the door trim today again  I tried some tests and here are the results:

Power is still flowing to the mirror folding switch. after you remove the key and open the door. this means power is being cut at the mirror motor level. I check pin 14/15 of the connector going to the mirrors and there is no power with or without key which means that powering the mirror motors is triggered with some logic inside the door module or the main computer. This is a trigger or relay somewhere which detects the door is opened and stops the module from powering the motors.

So this leaves us with two solutions: a hypothetical and a workign one.

The hypothetical can be tested by powering the mirrors directly from the 20 pin connector (pin19/20) and using the switch to see if they fold/unfold. chances are the current flow from the switch is also cut inside the door module. If powering the mirror from these pins can make them fold/unfold witht the switch then we need a relay to mimic the switch using the SAFE door lock system (more in this below). Not sure how to contol the spining of the motors as we are bypassing the door module management here. well it's just an idea 

The working solution requires 2 relays (you can do with one) but 2 devices will require less wiring as you need to connect noth mirrors.
The device is called Audi 361 relay (part number 4A0 907 440 => cheaper than newer version but same functionality).
each relay will be connected the the pin19/20 on the 20 pin connecter (power) and connected to the mirror through the existing loom. it also has to be connected to SAFE lock control pin (will have to find which it is as there are two or three pins labeled SAFE). the idea is to get a trigger from the SAFE lock system which means the car is not only locked but safe-locked 8) . The relay is also connected to a microswitch which is located in each mirror and which sends feedback about it's position. the feedback is used by the Audi relay to stop spinning the motors.

more info on this second solution can be found here (in german) : http://www.carcajou.de/howto/spiegel.htm
You have all the necessary pieces to make this work.
I already ordered a relay on ebay. 15€ with shipping. will test and order a second one if the setup is ok.

the wiring goes like this.


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## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> Found it  = 6Q0868243


LOL well done mate 

and brill postings, Im enjoying following your research, interesting and very informative, looking forward to the next stage 8)


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## Hadaak

reviving an old project  
anybody with VCDS can check if there is an equivalent to the MMI trick in the TT as per this post:

http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_FoldingMirrors4.html

I have the 361 Audi relays now and will soon start testing the mod if no VCDS trick is possible.


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## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> reviving an old project
> anybody with VCDS can check if there is an equivalent to the MMI trick in the TT as per this post:
> 
> http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_FoldingMirrors4.html
> 
> I have the 361 Audi relays now and will soon start testing the mod if no VCDS trick is possible.


good stuff hadaak - looking forward to further info, will investigate the link above, very good articles


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## itwasntme187

HI GUYS,

Is there any update on this mod? I am looking to do this on my A3 8P and the wiring pins match those that have been posted, i know that using audi relay 361 should be able to get the mirrors to fold/unfold with the remote lock/unlock but i am lost with the wiring of the pins on the actual relay. Can someone explain the relay wiring to the safe lock and what exact pin numbers would need to be wired onto and i would happily have a look to try and make this mod happen on my A3.

thanks

Ash


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## Hadaak

have two relays waiting in a drawer. haven't had the time to install them.
The info I'm missing is the pin of the micro switch, if there is any, which tells the mirror motor to stop spinning once it has folded or unfolded completely. if you can confirm that such switch/feed exists in the TT mirrors you can wire the relay as shown in the diagram above. so to sum it up:

relays should be powered by a 12V line = you can get this from the mirror ecu in the door. if power is cut after a timeout you need to wire a 12v from the fuse box. then you need to worry about the relays draining the battery !!!!
relay should be connected to pin Safe pin (haven't found the exact pin either !!!).
when this safe line gets juice from unlock/lock the relays powers the mirror motor, probably reverse polarity on fold/unfold.
when the mirror folds completely it send a signal back to the relays to stop powering the mirror motor.

it might be a different story with the TT mirrors though


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## YoungOldUn

J386 - Driver door control unit
L131 - Driver side exterior mirror turn signal bulb
T16f - 16 pin connector, conector B on driver door control unit
V17 - Driver side mirror adjustment motor
V121 - Driver side fold in mirror motor
V149 - Driver side mirror adjustment motor
Y20 - Driver side automatic anti dazzle exterior mirror - Only on anti dazzle equipped car.
Z4 - Driver side heated exterior mirror - Only if mirror heating equipped.


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## Hadaak

don't know how to read that


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## YoungOldUn

Hadaak said:


> have two relays waiting in a drawer. haven't had the time to install them.
> The info I'm missing is the pin of the micro switch, if there is any, which tells the mirror motor to stop spinning once it has folded or unfolded completely. if you can confirm that such switch/feed exists in the TT mirrors you can wire the relay as shown in the diagram above.


I was trying to show that there does not appear to be any micro switches built into the mirror assembly and that all the movement is controlled by the 'Driver door control unit' (J386).


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## Hadaak

OK. But there certainly is some circuitry in the mirror housing !!
here is the pinout of the wiring going out the door to the mirrors:

16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)

1 - Mirror status position X (only with seat memory fitted)

2 - Mirror terminal 31, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

3 - Mirror supply, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)

4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction

5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction

6- Vacant

7 - Mirror heating

8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)

9 - Mirror status position Y (only with seat memory fitted)

10- Vacant

11 - Mirror terminal 31

12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction

13- Vacant

14 - Mirror folding motor -

15 - Mirror folding motor +

16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)

if we take out all the vacant pins and the pins used only with memory and heated mirrors we are left with these:

4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction

5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction

7 - Mirror heating

8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)

11 - Mirror terminal 31

12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction

14 - Mirror folding motor -

15 - Mirror folding motor +

16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)

going futher we can rule out the pins for folding/heating/ground/dip. we are left with:

4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction

5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction

12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction

these are for mirror adjustment so I don't see where we can get a mirror folding position !!!

May be audi are just using a timed relay to stop the mirror motors after a certain amount of time, let's say 2 or three seconds !!!
I need to do some testing and probably mirror motor frying


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## Hadaak

We still have an option: anybody with a spare folding mirror ? We need to open it and look how the motors work.


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## meshandsandy

Just a quick one, if the power to the doors are turned off when you open the doors, and you are using a relay with a normal open/normal closed, then you could use the normal open pins?

ie. when there is no power to the relay ie you open the doors, then the relay created a closed circuit between the first and third pins on the mirror switch????, and the mirrors will fold?

Happy days.....


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## Hadaak

the question is will they stop folding ? will the mirror motors stop spinning or just spin on till they fry


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## Hadaak

Anyone have a spare mirror to open and take a look at the the motors and the internal wiring?


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## Gizmo68

Sounds very interesting if you can manage it.


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## Hadaak

stand by for action


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## JETLAG

Hadaak, did you manage to get it right?


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## Hadaak

will update soon. give me a week or two. Not enough time on my hands


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## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> will update soon. give me a week or two. Not enough time on my hands


you know how to work the audience Hadaak - superb 

I know you're keen to get this working and I like others are looking forward to your success . . . . . . :wink:


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## JETLAG

Hadaak said:


> will update soon. give me a week or two. Not enough time on my hands


Hey man.... Just following up to see if you have had any success on this?


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## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> will update soon. give me a week or two. Not enough time on my hands


still waiting, patiently :wink:


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## JETLAG

bump


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## Hadaak

Show Time :


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## planman

Wow! I want it and I want it now!

What's the S?P.? :mrgreen:


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## Hadaak

gonna be real expensive ! you know Audi options


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## YoungOldUn

Congratulations. You must be really pleased to have got that to work.

Are you going to let us know the details of how you achieved it?


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## Hadaak

Thanks ! sure I will post the details once I get all the pieces together. I did a test on the drivers' side mirror today and will install the whole system soon.


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## RockKramer

Genius... Fantastic work.


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## Hadaak

Thanks but the credit is not all mine. I just followed the breadcrumbs


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## ajayp

Can't wait to get this on mine....


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## RockKramer

Ditto that... :wink:


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## whitettpet

Count me in that is amazing. Can't believe it ain't on as standard.


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## Gizmo68

Eagerly awaiting [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## nas02141

I want this too.


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## igotone

Impressive job - well done!! 8)


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## Hadaak

Thanks. I still have one issue to sort out: when my system is connected to the Audi door control module it cancels the mirror dipping (mirror position changing) function on the mirror folding button.


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## d1will

Mate that is epic work! I've been keeping an eye on this for ages and you've finally done it.
Congrats for all your hard work paying off. 
I see you have the slight problem of no mirror adjust but given your expertise I'm sure you will sort it soon.

I cannot wait for the "how-to" guide but I'm hoping you explain it as well as your other posts as I'm not so good with electrics so please be detailed 

Well done!


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## stokeballoon

I have folding mirrors on my TT, I also bought some folding mirror motors for my previous TT, but never got round to fitting them.

if anyone wants them, all Brand new, new switch and new screws included PM me.

I will be having a go with the reverse dip. My car is a S-Tronic RS, si Can't believe this is not standard......


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## stokeballoon

I can't answer PM's as yet, but if you include an email address i will gladly do so.


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## Hadaak

Final piece of the puzzle solved


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## RockKramer

Fantastic... You certainly go the extra mile not to be beaten. Great work sir!


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## Gizmo68

Superb, I look forward to the write up [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Hadaak

Gizmo68 said:


> Superb, I look forward to the write up [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


You'll soon have to change your signature :wink:

_*Hadaak*_ Electrically folding door mirrors

:mrgreen:


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## Hadaak

So mod was installed in both doors yesterday. Everything is working fine. I did a road test to see if the mirrors would fold on auto lock at 10 or 20 km but nothing happened so the mod is good for mass production 

Two things to put in mind though:
To make this mod as easy as possible you:
1. won't be able to fold the mirrors with the mirror switch. Mirror dip and position change work fine. 
2. need to change the doors unlock option in the DIS to ALL DOORS. this is due to the Central locking feedback I use in the mod. if the passenger door is not unlocked when you use the remote no signal is received so mirror unfolding is not triggered.

If for any reason you still want to use the mirror switch and do not want to change the door unlock setting the mod is still valid but it will require you to pass wires from the driver's door to the passenger door. I just chose the easy way and that's how I'll keep it. I will provide a how to do for those willing to pass wires.

install guide will follow soon.


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## stokeballoon

Thanks in advance for taking the time to research and experiment. Looking forward to havinga go..........


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## MickyTT

Eagerly looking forward to the write up.


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## -:[KM]:-

That is awesome!
Great investigative work. 
I want it!


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## planman

Cant wait, well done!


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## Hadaak

People asked for a detailed write-up 

1.	Disclaimer:
Do at your own risk. If this mod brings a smile to your face when done you and I are to thank. If this mod fries your car during the install or your mirrors later on during use you and only you are to blame 

2.	What you need: (The easy way: Double Relay install):

•	2 Audi/VW Relays 361. Part number : 4A0907440. Get yourself another one or two spare relays just in case . I got mine at around 15€ each on ebay. Just don't go asking Audi about this relay since it costs Around 90€. 
•	http://cgi.ebay.fr/VW-Relay-361-AUDI-A4 ... 1c15418095
•	2x 50cm Meter wiring looms with 5 wires (for the double relay easy install mod). More cables will be required for the single relay mod.
•	You can take a step further and get 2 sockets + connectors for theses relays to make installation more professional. 
•	Screw driver with Allan keys 25
•	1 pack (25 pieces) door trim clips (because you will certainly break a lot of them when removing the door trim). Part number : 6Q0868243. Got them very cheap from VW. They might be more expensive from Audi 
•	1 pack of 10 crimp connectors. (GET FULLY insulated connectors like in the pic. Naked connectors might accidentally come into contact while preparing the mod and fry your car) 
•	Some Velcro scratch tape to maintain the relay in place once it is installed in the door.
•	VAG tools (3409 and 3392) or equivalent to remove the door trim. Both can be replaced with a flat screwdriver. You just need to be careful when using it to remove the door trim. 
•	Cloth insulation tape (I use HPX brand) to insulate/protect the wires.
•	A Connector strip with at least 4 pins. 
•	adjustable pliers to crimp the cable connectors (if you do not have pro cable crimping tools)
•	1 hour










3.	How it works:

The Audi 361 relay is a timer relay which inverts polarity on the ME(5)/MA(8) output pins when it gets a continuous ground signal (-) on the pin 12/SE. The mirror motors fold or unfold the mirrors according to this current inversion. The mirror motors stop spinning when they reach max folding/unfolding position. The continuous ground signal is supplied by the central locking feedback pin one of the connectors in the door module. This pin gets continuous ground when the doors are locked with the key fob. The mirrors are maintained in a folded position as long as the ground signal is present on pin SE. when you unlock the door the ground signal is cut on the CL feedback/Safe pin which makes the relay invert ME/MA pins' polarity and unfold the mirrors.

4.	The relay pins are:
Relay PIN 4 (15) --> 12V + (permanent)
Relay PIN 5 (ME) --> Mirror folding motor -
Relay PIN 6 (31) --> Ground -
Relay PIN 8 (MA) --> Mirror folding motor + 
Relay PIN 12 (SE) --> Ground signal to operate the relay
Relay PIN 14 (RA) --> feedback from the mirror motors micro switch to stop spinning the mirror motors (not implemented in the TT mirrors) => pin not used in this mod.

This relay will be connected to the door module J386. Here is a reminder of the door module connector pins. Pins in bold italics are the ones used in this mod.

Connectors, door control unit, driver side -J386
20-pin connector (supply, lock)
1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)
2 - CL motor SAFE
_*3 - CL feedback locked/safe*_
4 - CL outside door handle
5- Vacant
6- Vacant
7 - CL terminal 31
8 - CAN - High
9 - CAN - Low
10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)
11 - CL motor SAFE/lock
12 - CL terminal 30
13 - CL keyswitch close/open
14- Vacant
15 - CL door contact switch
16 - CL motor unlock
17- Vacant
18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)
_*19 - WL terminal 31
20 - WL terminal 30*_
16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)
1 - Mirror status position X (only with seat memory fitted)
2 - Mirror terminal 31, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)
3 - Mirror supply, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)
4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction
5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction
6- Vacant
7 - Mirror heating
8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)
9 - Mirror status position Y (only with seat memory fitted)
10- Vacant
11 - Mirror terminal 31
12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction
13- Vacant
_*14 - Mirror folding motor -
15 - Mirror folding motor +*_
16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)
32-pin connector (to door trim)
not used in the 2 relay mod. Will be used in the 1 relay ultimate mod 

To make this relay work we need to connect it to the door module as follows:

5.	The easy Way: Double relay install:

Using one relay per door => no possibility to use the mirror switch to fold/unfold the mirrors + requires DIS all door unlock option.
In this case each relay will be connected to the 16 and 20 pin connectors in the two modules in the driver door and the passenger door.

Wiring scheme:
Relay PIN 4 (15)	connected to == > PIN 20 - WL terminal 30 (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Red/green cable. 
This is a 12V permanent wire. Be Careful when manipulating this one.
Relay PIN 5 (ME) connected to == > PIN 14 - Mirror folding motor - (16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) => Blue
Relay PIN 6 (31) connected to == > PIN 19 - Mirror terminal 31 (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Brown cable
Relay PIN 8 (MA) connected to == > PIN 15 - Mirror folding motor + (on the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) Pink
Relay PIN 12 (SE) connected to == > PIN 3 CL feedback locked/safe (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Blue
Relay PIN 14 (RA) connected to == > Not used.

6.	How I did it (quick and dirty  )

a.	Remove the door trim:
a.a	Use the VW tool or an equivalent to remove the trim as in the pics on this page:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=148866&start=30
a.b	Remove the 2 screws using an Allan key size 25
a.c	Get both screws out of their holes or make sure they're completely unscrewed
a.d	Call superman and give him a hand to pull the door trim starting from the bottom. Do not pull on the top because the upper part of the trim slides in a rail in the door. Get hold of the door trim from the bottom using a flat tool and once you get your fingers under the trim just grab and pull hard. Do not use your foot to push on the door while pulling the trim as you might distort your door. Block the door with your knees and give the trim two or three hard pulls till you hear the clips breaking. Push the trim upward as you go breaking the clips. Remove the broken clips from the door trim and from the door.
b.	Crimp the 5 wires from the 50cm loom on one end using the pliers and the crimp connectors. The crimp connectors' side goes to the relay pins. Choose and remember the wire colors. Do not connect the relay yet.
c.	Remove the 16 power supply module. BE CAREFULL when working with the wires of this connector as power is flowing in them even if disconnected from the module since they supply power to the module from inside the car. Work slowly and carefully and avoid abrupt gestures which can result in cutting wires/shorting wires and frying your car electronics 
d.	Strip a small portion of the 2 PINS 19 - WL terminal 31 and 20 - WL terminal 3 in the 16 supply connector and solder or tightly connect two of the wires coming from the 6 wire loom you just prepared. These two wires will be used to power the relay. Do not cut these wires as they supply power to the module. You just need to tap into them by stripping/soldering or using an appropriate connector. Be careful when stripping the supply cables as permanent juice is running through them. 
e.	Tighten/protect and insulate the wires once connected. You should now have the two wires which will power the relay connected on one side and ready with crimp connectors on the other side. Do not connect the relay yet.
f.	On the same connector, strip a small portion of the pin number 3 (CL feedback locked/safe = blue wire). 
g.	Solder or connect tightly the wire which will be connected to PIN SE of the relay to this stripped wire.
h.	Protect and insulate the connection with insulation tape.
i.	Do not connect the connector back to the module yet.
j.	Remove the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) from the module. Pull the red piece of plastic and then press on the bottom of the connector to release it. Go easy as they are a bit hard to pull out. 
k.	Check that the power supply connector is disconnected.
l.	Cut the two wires 14 and 15 on the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)). These wires will not be used anymore as the mirrors will be powered by the wires going from the relay. Do not just strip and connect the relay wires to them as this will cancel the mirror dip function of the mirror switch. You really need to cut the wires. Try to leave some wire length on the Audi connector side in case you would want to cancel the mod later on. And just to make things clear: The wires going to the connector (after you cut them) will not be used. The wires we will use are the wires on the 20 pin connector loom. These are the wires going out to the mirror.
m.	Protect/insulate the Audi module wires you just cut so they don't come in touch of each other or of any metallic part of the door. Remember power will be flowing through these cables too even if they are not used. 
n.	Using the connector strip connect the two wires in the 20 pin loom (the wires you just cut) to two of the wires in the 6 wires loom. These are the mirror folding - and mirror folding + wires. Refer to the wiring scheme table above.
By now you have the 5 wiring loom with crimp connectors on one side and 5 wires connected to wires the 2 connectors on the Audi door module on the other side. Now time to connect the 2 connectors back to the door module and to connect the relay.
a.	Connect the 5 wires with crimp connectors to the relay. Make sure the cable color/connection matches the wiring table before connecting the cables.
b.	Plug the 2 Audi connectors back. You will hear a sound when you connect the 16 power supply one, don't worry  ! Note: Windows Motors might not work if you try them right after reconnecting the door module. Don not worry ! just give them a minute or two and they will be back to life again. 
c.	Secure the relay in the door to your convenience. I used Velcro tape. Just remember that you need to make sure the relay will not cause rattle or move when driving the car. So you might need to enroll with some noise cancelling tape but don't completely stifle it in tape or cloth as it might heat up and be damaged in hot temperature.
d.	TEST the driver door. 
e.	If the mirrors fold on unlock or unfold on lock you should check the relay ME and MA pins. You probably inversed them. If so inverse the wires and test again.
f.	I see you smiling with joy  
g.	Then you're ready to do the same in the other door. Just don't forget to set the Unlock doors option on the DIS to ALL doors.
h.	AND do not be in a hurry ! DO NOT reinstall the door trim with the clips. Remove all the clips from the door trim and Install the door trim WITHOUT the clips. Use the 2 screws only. I've been using my driver door for many months using only the screws. This will make it easier for you to modify your install and make sure everything is ok before sealing the door with the new clips. 
i.	End of the easy mod.

7.	The pro but difficult way: Single relay method:

This method requires wiring one relay inside the car or inside the driver door the same way we did for the double relay method with two exceptions:
1.	The output ME/MA pins of the relay will be used to power both mirrors (-/+ folding wires) in both doors. This means you will need to pass wires from inside the car to the two doors or from the driver door to the passenger door.
2.	This method allows the use of the mirror switch button to fold/unfold the mirrors. The mirror switch button PIN 6 on the 32 pin connector should be connected to the SE Pin of the relay. This way when the switch button is in fold position a continuous ground is sent to the SE pin on the relay which makes it fold the mirrors. 
I have not had the time to test this mod, especially the mirror switch button sending a ground pulse to the SE Pin which is connected to the CL feedback which also sends a ground signal to the SE Pin. In this situation the ground signal coming from the button might interfere with the CL feedback signal and send a wrong signal to the Audi Central Locking system. There is probably a need for a cathode on the CL feedback wire to cancel any signal going from the switch button to the CL feedback wire. I will investigate this further.
With this method you don't have to change the door locking option in the DIS as one single feedback line is used to trigger the fold/unfold action (3 - CL feedback locked/safe pin from the driver's door control module).

Here is the pinout of the connector going to the mirror switch button and the other door buttons (lock, tank, windows).Pin 6 is the one which folds the mirrors when it gets a ground signal.
The mirror button switch inside the door has four pins. When pin 1 and 4 are shorted the mirrors fold. Pin 4 corresponds to pin 6 on the connector.
32-pin connector (to door trim)
1 - BE - Exit/warning lamp
2 - BE - Terminal 31 (2) (AWL)
3 - BF - Window lifter button rear right
4 - BE - Terminal 31 (1) (AWL)
5 - CL SAFE LED
6 - BE - Terminal 58b (1)
7 - BF - Interior locking button (LOCK/UNLOCK)
8 - BF - Window lifter button front right (local)
9- Vacant
10 - Memory button + emergency off button (only with seat memory fitted)
11 - Memory position buttons (only with seat memory fitted)
12 - BF - Tailgate remote release button (only in 5-door, USA)
13 - Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
14 - BE - Interior door handle illumination
15- Vacant
16 - Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring)
17 - Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor)
18 - CL - Inside door handle (not implemented)
19 - BF - Mirror adjustment L/R
20 - BF - Mirror adjustment X/Y
21 - BF - Window lifter button rear right (local)
22 - BE - Terminal 58b (2) (mirror adjuster switch)
23 - BE - Terminal 58b (3) (mirror/stowage illumination)
24 - BF - Window lifter button front left (local)
25- Vacant
26 - BF - Child lock
27 - Memory supply terminal 30
28 - BF - Button for tank lid unlock
29 - BF - Mirror heating
30 - Button for interior monitoring
31 - LED - Interior locking button (LOCK)
32 - LED - Child lock button
END OF THE GUIDE


----------



## Mark 2

WOW what a write up, I congratulate you on your hard work and for sharing this with us.


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## Hadaak

Well I reached the maximum number of characters allowed on the forum : 15000


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## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> People asked for a detailed write-up
> 6
> l.	Cut the two wires 14 and 15 on the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)). These wires will not be used anymore as the mirrors will be powered by the wires going from the relay. Do not just strip and connect the relay wires to them as this will cancel the mirror dip function of the mirror switch. You really need to cut the wires. Try to leave some wire length on the Audi connector side in case you would want to cancel the mod later on. And just to make things clear: The wires going to the connector (after you cut them) will not be used. The wires we will use are the wires on the 20 pin connector loom. These are the wires going out to the mirror.


Do you not get an error code (DTC) with wires 14 & 15 cut though?


----------



## Hadaak

No.
I think that this is ok as long as the mirrors are powered and send back a working signal to the ECU. 
Mod has been running for a week now without issues.
The biggest issue about this mod is to get over the habit of using the mirror button when you're about to get out of the car :lol:


----------



## Gizmo68

lol I can see that would take a few days to remember it!.

Are you at any point going to rewire yours so the knob still works? as this is the way I would like to do mine
(the relay would be situated in the OE position anyway as I like my mods to be as OE as possible)


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## Hadaak

Not sure as I'm happy with it as it is now. I don't want to pass cables from car to doors but I will test and validate the single relay mod with the operational switch soon.


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## Hadaak

and if you want it OEM you will need the relay socket. part number 4A0 937 529.
Ask a VW dealer about the compatible connectors and wires.


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## Hadaak

and please do feel free to report your folding mirror success stories back in this thread  I'd like to know how many folding TTs are riding out there so I can sell the mod to Audi for the MK3 if it is not too late :lol:


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## snoopcar

Hi All!
Have a relay 361 and folding mirrors.The mirrors need about 3 sec. to fold/unfold ,but relay signal is during about 5 sec.What is happening at the rest of 2 sec,the motors didn't break down?



Hadaak said:


> The mirror motors stop spinning when they reach max folding/unfolding position.


Sorry for bad language.


----------



## Hadaak

Just a guess: Mirror motors probably have a max position feedback. When this feedback is received they cut the juice and stop spinning. But this is just a guess. Old motor (from the passat mod web page mentioned earlier in this thread) have a feedback switch which was used to stop the relay from sending juice (switch is wired to the RA pin on the relay). I'm still running the two relays and no smoke is coming out of the mirror :mrgreen:


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## Hadaak

And the mod can also be used with thi module:

http://www.carmodule.de/index.php?modul ... _ID=P16791

You will need to pass wires from driver to passenger door. See instructions for single relay mod.


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## JETLAG

I have a question, does the TT have a remote cable that sends a signal to the radio when you turn the car on? and Turn radio off when you pull the key out.?

Maybe you could use that to fold open the mirrors when the engine is on, and fold the mirrors closed when the key is pulled out?


----------



## Wallsendmag

Mine don't even work with the switch now [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Hadaak

Wallsendmag said:


> Mine don't even work with the switch now [smiley=bigcry.gif]


You mean you did the mod and the mirrors do not work now !!!


----------



## Hadaak

JETLAG said:


> I have a question, does the TT have a remote cable that sends a signal to the radio when you turn the car on? and Turn radio off when you pull the key out.?
> 
> Maybe you could use that to fold open the mirrors when the engine is on, and fold the mirrors closed when the key is pulled out?


yes, that's called KeySense but you will have to pass cables from the steering column to the doors and this is what I wanted to avoid: passing cables...


----------



## Wallsendmag

Hadaak said:


> Wallsendmag said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine don't even work with the switch now [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> You mean you did the mod and the mirrors do not work now !!!
Click to expand...

No they just don't work


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## Hadaak

first troubleshooting step is to remove the door trim and simulate the switch button by unplugging the connector and connecting the folding button pin to a groundpoint on the door. start wih the the driver door. refer to my single relay mod for pin numbers.


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## Hadaak

it's Pin 6 is the one which folds the mirrors when it gets a ground signal.
On the 32 pin connector in the door module.


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## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> and please do feel free to report your folding mirror success stories back in this thread  I'd like to know how many folding TTs are riding out there so I can sell the mod to Audi for the MK3 if it is not too late :lol:


Thanks for the write-up! I may attempt this this weekend. My car though also has heated + anti-dazzle mirrors. Is there a change to the pin-out on the door controller for these that I should be aware of, or will the install be the same?


----------



## Hadaak

no change. mine are also heated but not anti-dazzle. The folding pins are the same.


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## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> no change. mine are also heated but not anti-dazzle. The folding pins are the same.


Thanks. Halfway done... got the door cards off and the wiring harnesses made for the two 361 relays. Now I just need to do the wiring of the harnesses to the control module wires in the daytime tomorrow.

I'm a bit nervous about attempting to solder to the wires while they have voltage, so I'm going to disconnect the battery.


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## Hadaak

Just don't seal the door cards with clips untill you are happy with the mod. And make sure the relays don't cause any rattle when the car is moving or the door speakers are loud. I'm still running my doors with the 2 screws since the install


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Just don't seal the door cards with clips untill you are happy with the mod. And make sure the relays don't cause any rattle when the car is moving or the door speakers are loud. I'm still running my doors with the 2 screws since the install


Where did you attach the relay to the door relative to the control module? I was thinking of putting it directly above the module, but it's not obvious what will or won't interfere with the door card.

I also broke a few of the white plastic brackets on the door card that hold the clips... Those are being epoxied back on now!


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## Hadaak

I put the relay on the driver side right above the door module. I glued a velcro tape on the module and on the relay. But I still have to add some cloth or foam around the relay to make it vibration and rattle proof. 
As for the clips I think the best solution is to buy a new pack. The white part is part of the whole clip and they are very cheap. get a pack of 20 or some and you're good to go.


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## Hadaak

Even Elsa instructions talk about replacing them ! So Audi knows you cannot remove the door trims without breaking those clips 
part number : 6Q0868243


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## Mech33

Done! I only partially broke 1 clip, but I broke multiple of the brackets attached to the door trim. Go figure. I had to glue those back on.

Otherwise, it's working perfectly! For some reason though now my convenience window auto "up" when I hold the lock button the remote no longer works (but my auto "down" when holding unlock works just fine). Must just be coincidence with removing the battery power for some period of time (my alarm kept going off, so I re-attached the battery immediately).

Thanks again for the detailed instructions! I used the plastic pin-style velcro and attached the 361 relay just above the large speaker in the door (it looked like there was lots of room there behind the door trim.


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## Mech33

OOPS! I spoke too soon: as soon as I drove over 10 mph, the mirrors folded. 

It looks like any time the doors are locked the mirrors fold in, and whenever they're unlocked they unfold. Sounds somewhat expected, unless you like the "auto lock at a certain speed" feature!!

Any way to fix this easily, or is this just a byproduct of the "easy " hack?


----------



## Hadaak

That's odd ! I did fear that behaviour too but it didn't happen ! Are you using the exact safe lock feedback pin? I hope you didn't reinstall the door clips. Let me check and see how I can help you with this. In the meanwhile just disable the auto lock feature.


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> That's odd ! I did fear that behaviour too but it didn't happen ! Are you using the exact safe lock feedback pin? I hope you didn't reinstall the door clips. Let me check and see how I can help you with this. In the meanwhile just disable the auto lock feature.


I used pin 3 of the 20-pin harness as specified.

If I sit in the car and hit the physical lock button next to the door handle, the mirrors fold in. If I hit unlock, they fold back out. It looks like the mirror folding is simply tied to the door lock / unlock command. Does yours not behave that way? For now i've disabled auto-lock, but I'd really like to be able to keep the doors locked while driving.

My car is a 2012 US-spec TT-RS in case that makes a difference. And yes, I left off the trim clips for now (just in case).


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## Hadaak

Sorry I couldn't check out my wiring today. Will do it tomorrow after work. You might try pin number 2 instead of 3 and see if that solves the issue for you.


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Sorry I couldn't check out my wiring today. Will do it tomorrow after work. You might try pin number 2 instead of 3 and see if that solves the issue for you.


When you hit your door lock / unlock buttons on the door panel, do your mirrors fold / unfold as well?

I went outside and tried wiring the relay SE pin to pins 2 and 11 on the 20-pin connector, and neither worked properly.

Did you happen to measure the current consumption on the 12V connection to the relay once the mirrors are done folding? I assume it's negligible, but I'll probably measure that next time I take the door off.


----------



## Hadaak

Mirrors do not fold or unfold when I hit the interior locking button. And no folding when car speed goes over 15km !!! I thought the mirrors would fold when I first tested the mod but was very happy when I started rolling and heard the doors lock without the mirros folding in !! Audi might have changed something in the door module. 
There is always another solution using an additional relay. i will check this and let you know how you can solve it.


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Mirrors do not fold or unfold when I hit the interior locking button. And no folding when car speed goes over 15km !!! I thought the mirrors would fold when I first tested the mod but was very happy when I started rolling and heard the doors lock without the mirros folding in !! Audi might have changed something in the door module.
> There is always another solution using an additional relay. i will check this and let you know how you can solve it.


Maybe there's a coding difference between your door controller and mine?


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## Gizmo68

I am in the process of doing mine the 1 relay way.

With the (relay) SE wire going to pin 6 (32 pin door panel plug) my mirrors fold when the mirror knob is positioned in the passenger side and heated mirror position (RHD car), they do not fold when switched to the drivers side or the folding position, but they do start to fold the moment you move away from those positions (for example going from drivers mirror to folding position)

However if I put the SE wire to pin 3 (20 pin connector) the mirror adjustment will only dip, disconnect the SE wire and they fold automatically&#8230; as you would expect.

Any ideas?

Small update, on pin 3 the mirrors now fold when locked and unfold when unlocked (the interior light was turned off before&#8230; shouldn't have made any difference, but they fold/unfold with the interior light on or off now)
BUT there is no adjustment at all now, not even downwards&#8230; infact the knob is possibly completely redundant (not checked if the heated mirrors are working.)


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## Mech33

Gizmo68 said:


> Small update, on pin 3 the mirrors now fold when locked and unfold when unlocked (the interior light was turned off before&#8230; shouldn't have made any difference, but they fold/unfold with the interior light on or off now)
> BUT there is no adjustment at all now, not even downwards&#8230; infact the knob is possibly completely redundant (not checked if the heated mirrors are working.)


This is exactly what I'm seeing with the 2-relay "easy" mod. Mirror operation is tied directly to door lock state...


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## Hadaak

@Gizmo68 :
You did cut the -/+ (pin 14/15) wires going from the audi module to the mirrors? If you don't the dipping function does not work.
This is necessary because when mirrors are powered by both the audi module and the relays they cannot be controlled by the switch.. so no dipping.


----------



## Gizmo68

Yes the wires were cut, I traced it down to the plug on the mirror switch, removed it and replaced it a couple of times and all is working correctly now 

A quick note to others intending to do this mod, you will end up with an error code for each mirror&#8230; as expected as you have just made 2 wires redundant (per door) by cutting them - you could of course just un-tick the mirrors from the CANBUS list so the car does not scan them again.

P.S. Hadaak, I hope you like the updated signature :mrgreen:


----------



## Hadaak

Ahh glad to hear that  and Cheers for the signature


----------



## Hadaak

another note is that when you do the mod you will notice that the windows do not roll down or up or the mirrors do not dip right after finishing the install. just give the ECU a few minutes to adjust and things will resume working properly.


----------



## Hadaak

Gizmo68 said:


> A quick note to others intending to do this mod, you will end up with an error code for each mirror&#8230; as expected as you have just made 2 wires redundant (per door) by cutting them - you could of course unstick the mirrors from the CANBIS list so the car does not scan them again.


I suppose the errors are only in the vcds scan and not on the DIS. I don't have anything on the DIS.
I will do a scan and see what comes up.


----------



## Mech33

Gizmo68 said:


> Yes the wires were cut, traced it down to the plug on the mirror switch, removed it and replaced it a couple of times and all is working now
> 
> A quick note to others intending to do this mod, you will end up with an error code for each mirror&#8230; as expected as you have just made 2 wires redundant (per door) by cutting them - you could of course unstick the mirrors from the CANBIS list so the car does not scan them again.
> 
> P.S. Hadaak, I hope you like the updated signature :mrgreen:


Hey Gizmo, are your mirrors still folding / unfolding when you hit the door lock / unlock button inside the car, or did you fix that as well?

Hadaak, any more advice on how to be able to lock the doors without having the mirrors folded while driving?


----------



## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> I suppose the errors are only in the vcds scan and not on the DIS. I don't have anything on the DIS.
> I will do a scan and see what comes up.


No nothing on the DIS it's only when you do a scan, which incidentally the 1st scan will throw up a load of errors as you would of had a few things disconnected during the install, they will all clear apart from the mirror fault code.



Mech33 said:


> Hey Gizmo, are your mirrors still folding / unfolding when you hit the door lock / unlock button inside the car, or did you fix that as well?
> 
> Hadaak, any more advice on how to be able to lock the doors without having the mirrors folded while driving?


When the car is locked off the internal button the mirrors do not fold, the mirror control knob work perfectly as well (apart from the mirror folding position does not work&#8230; we knew this would no longer work though)

I have only done a short road test but all is working as expected (I have never had the auto lock/anti-hijack enabled)


----------



## Hadaak

Mech33 said:


> Hadaak, any more advice on how to be able to lock the doors without having the mirrors folded while driving?


Did you tap into the pin 3 or did you cut it and connected it directly to the SE pin? 
The aui wire on pin 3 should not be cut.

what happens when you press the lock button successively. I suppose : first lock button press => mirror fold. Second lock button press => mirrors stay folded. This is normal behviour.


----------



## Hadaak

Gizmo68 said:


> I have only done a short road test but all is working as expected (I have never had the auto lock/anti-hijack enabled)


Can you enable the auto-lock function just to see if the folding does not occur at around 15/20 km/h?


----------



## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> Gizmo68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have only done a short road test but all is working as expected (I have never had the auto lock/anti-hijack enabled)
> 
> 
> 
> Can you enable the auto-lock function just to see if the folding does not occur at around 15/20 km/h?
Click to expand...

I will see if I get time at the weekend [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Mech33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hadaak, any more advice on how to be able to lock the doors without having the mirrors folded while driving?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you tap into the pin 3 or did you cut it and connected it directly to the SE pin?
> The aui wire on pin 3 should not be cut.
> 
> what happens when you press the lock button successively. I suppose : first lock button press => mirror fold. Second lock button press => mirrors stay folded. This is normal behviour.
Click to expand...

I tapped pin 3 (did not cut it).

The mirrors stay folded if I press the door lock repeatedly. The mirrors stay unfolded if I hit unlock repeatedly.

Everything is great except for the direct tie of mirror folding to the door lock state.


----------



## Hadaak

I think you're not using the right pin !!!
what color is the pin?
I noticed that the pin for the central locking keyswitch (interior locking button) is the third button but on the other side of the pinout => Pin 13. You're proably using this pin which would explain why the interior button folds the mirrors too !!! Just a guess and I hope I'm right  
The pin 3 color is Bleu if my memory is good. please check it out. Pin numbers are either on the connector itself or on the inside of the female connector on the door module.

20-pin connector (supply, lock)
1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)
2 - CL motor SAFE
*3 - CL feedback locked/safe*
4 - CL outside door handle
5- Vacant
6- Vacant
7 - CL terminal 31
8 - CAN - High
9 - CAN - Low
10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)
11 - CL motor SAFE/lock
12 - CL terminal 30
*13 - CL keyswitch close/open*
14- Vacant
15 - CL door contact switch
16 - CL motor unlock
17- Vacant
18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)
19 - WL terminal 31
20 - WL terminal 30


----------



## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> *The pin 3 color is Bleu if my memory is good*. please check it out. Pin numbers are either on the connector itself or on the inside of the female connector on the door module.


Correct it is the blue wire, the numbers are on the connector that the wires go into.

I have just enabled the auto-lock (anti hi-jack) and I assume it is working correctly as SWMBO did not return immediately after she went out, I will find out for sure in an hour or so.


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> I think you're not using the right pin !!!
> what color is the pin?
> I noticed that the pin for the central locking keyswitch (interior locking button) is the third button but on the other side of the pinout => Pin 13. You're proably using this pin which would explain why the interior button folds the mirrors too !!! Just a guess and I hope I'm right
> The pin 3 color is Bleu if my memory is good. please check it out. Pin numbers are either on the connector itself or on the inside of the female connector on the door module.
> 
> 20-pin connector (supply, lock)
> 1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)
> 2 - CL motor SAFE
> *3 - CL feedback locked/safe*
> 4 - CL outside door handle
> 5- Vacant
> 6- Vacant
> 7 - CL terminal 31
> 8 - CAN - High
> 9 - CAN - Low
> 10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)
> 11 - CL motor SAFE/lock
> 12 - CL terminal 30
> *13 - CL keyswitch close/open*
> 14- Vacant
> 15 - CL door contact switch
> 16 - CL motor unlock
> 17- Vacant
> 18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)
> 19 - WL terminal 31
> 20 - WL terminal 30


Thanks! But I definitely tapped the blue pin 3 wire... Here's a picture I took of the install:


----------



## Gizmo68

Gizmo68 said:


> I have just enabled the auto-lock (anti hi-jack) and I assume it is working correctly as SWMBO did not return immediately after she went out, I will find out for sure in an hour or so.


I can confirm the anti hi-jack locks the doors and the mirror do not fold at the same time&#8230;. or if the lock button on the door is pressed. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


----------



## Mech33

Gizmo68 said:


> Gizmo68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have just enabled the auto-lock (anti hi-jack) and I assume it is working correctly as SWMBO did not return immediately after she went out, I will find out for sure in an hour or so.
> 
> 
> 
> I can confirm the anti hi-jack locks the doors and the mirror do not fold at the same time&#8230;. or if the lock button on the door is pressed. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Click to expand...

I wonder what is different about your cars compared to my 2012 US-market TT?

I just checked the ElsaWin wiring diagrams (the latest I had was for a 2011 TT), and it says that the 20-pin harness pin 3 is the "front left central locking actuator" in J386 (driver side), and "front right central locking actuator" in J387 (passenger side).

It's not obvious to me why something called "central locking actuator" would not get toggled when you toggled the door locks. Maybe there is something different about the "alarm" system on the european models?

What does the "SAFE" lock mean exactly?


----------



## Mech33

Well, I think I got closer to root-causing the issue: US-market cars do *not* have "SAFE" motors, and thus do not support "SAFE" mode.

I found some coding in both the central locking and door modules that mentioned not having SAFE mode (e.g., "US cars w/o SAFE mode" that was checked). I tried to trick the car into thinking it supported SAFE mode by un-checking those and re-coding (both the central locking and the door modules), and it unfortunately didn't change the behavior that clicking the interior lock / unlock buttons also folds / unfolds the mirrors.  I thought I was close...

I suspect there may be some different wiring in the door for US-market cars due to the lack of a SAFE motor that disconnects the door handles when the alarm is armed that is making this pin 3 still toggle from the interior locks.

Hadaak, do you happen to know if the "CL feedback locked/safe" is an *output* from the door module to central locking? If so, I'm surprised that there was no change in behavior when re-coding the door module to supposedly support SAFE mode.


----------



## Hadaak

ok so the behaviour is due to your US module. Can't help you there my friend. The only solution I see now is that you get a latching relay and use it to give continuous ground to the SE pin of the 361 relay. But then again you need to tap into a lock pin which will not change state when the car is moving over 10 mph. The idea is :
1. Lock the car => latching relay gets the pulse and gives continuous ground to the SE pin on 361 relay. Latching relay retains this state even if power is no longer available.
2. Unlock the door => the laching relay gets the pulse and cuts the continuous ground signal on SE pin.
But as I said you need to test which lock/unlock pin on the audi module is not affected by the auto lock/Anti hijack function.


----------



## Hadaak

Mech33 said:


> Well, I think I got closer to root-causing the issue: US-market cars do *not* have "SAFE" motors, and thus do not support "SAFE" mode.


found this for an A4 US model :

_The central locking (CL) system automatically locks and unlocks the four passenger doors, the tank flap and the tailgate. The central locking can be operated from the driver's doors locking cylinder, the front passenger door locking cylinder (only in vehicles without radio remote control), the lock/ unlock button or the radio remote control unit. The locking units in the doors (door locks) each have 2 electric motors (*in USA/Canada only 1 locking motor*); the tailgate and the tank flap each have just one. *The first motor locks the doors, the second sets the SAFE status (not USA/Canada), i.e. after locking from an exterior command source (door lock, radio signal) the vehicle's anti-theft protection is activated and the vehicle can no longer be unlocked from the inside*. The status feedback to the control unit is delivered via contact switches in the locking units. _

So I don"t think coding will help here... better start looking the latching relay path..


----------



## Hadaak

or you could get a european driver door module and see it works. if it does get the passenger one


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Mech33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I think I got closer to root-causing the issue: US-market cars do *not* have "SAFE" motors, and thus do not support "SAFE" mode.
> 
> 
> 
> found this for an A4 US model :
> 
> _The central locking (CL) system automatically locks and unlocks the four passenger doors, the tank flap and the tailgate. The central locking can be operated from the driver's doors locking cylinder, the front passenger door locking cylinder (only in vehicles without radio remote control), the lock/ unlock button or the radio remote control unit. The locking units in the doors (door locks) each have 2 electric motors (*in USA/Canada only 1 locking motor*); the tailgate and the tank flap each have just one. *The first motor locks the doors, the second sets the SAFE status (not USA/Canada), i.e. after locking from an exterior command source (door lock, radio signal) the vehicle's anti-theft protection is activated and the vehicle can no longer be unlocked from the inside*. The status feedback to the control unit is delivered via contact switches in the locking units. _
> 
> So I don"t think coding will help here... better start looking the latching relay path..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the details. It's interesting luck that the pin 3 happens to work at all for me, given the likely very different wiring from the lack of the SAFE motor.

When experimenting with pins 2 and 11, one of them definitely seemed to trigger for a split second and then went back to GND or HiZ (I don't recall which). I hope there is some signal in there that is flipping just with the remote lock and not the interior lock... need to do a little probing with the good ol' oscilloscope in the car.


----------



## Mech33

Well, good news and bad news.

Bad news first: there is no slam-dunk perfect set of signals present on the 20-pin harness to make it easy to rig up a latch circuit to prevent the mirrors from folding when the interior door lock buttons are pressed.

The good news: there IS a unique signal on pin 11 "CL motor SAFE/lock" that I can use with a more complex circuit to get the desired behavior. 

A few interesting things I noticed when I was probing the different pins:

- the pin 3 "CL feedback locked/safe" signal on my car sits at GND when the car is unlocked. As soon as I hit the lock button the remote (or in the interior), the voltage on the line first transitions to a ~50 Hz square wave profile for ~20 seconds, and then sits at ~8 V from then onward. During the square wave profile portion, the voltage sits at ~12 V for ~3 milliseconds, and then sits at ~8 V for the remaining 17 ms of the 20 ms period (50 Hz). Interesting!

- the pin 11 "CL motor SAFE/lock" signal sits at GND when the car is unlocked. If I hit the interior door lock buttons, there is no change to the line. When I hit the remote's lock button, this line then shows a series of 7 short pulses that are ~20 milliseconds wide at ~7 V, each separated by about 350 milliseconds of ~GND. After these 7 pulses, the line continues to pulse every ~2 seconds, again jumping up to ~7 V for ~20 milliseconds, with approximately GND in-between (between pulses, the line immediately transitions down to ~1 V, and then discharges towards GND until the next pulse).

- the folding mirror motor lines behave as expected: applying 12 V on the (+) and GND on the (-) makes the mirrors fold in. Applying GND on the (+) and 12 V on the (-) makes the mirrors fold out. The 361 relay applies these voltages for ~5 seconds when the trigger line transitions. The mirrors fold faster than this and stop prior to the (+) and (-) motor lines being returned to GND, so it appears to stop based on some other feedback electronics inside the mirror itself.

So, I've decided to turn this into a fun opportunity to make a little hack module to do this right on US-spec cars. It will:
- enable the mirror folding / unfolding based on the remote lock / unlock
- not fold / unfold the mirrors when the interior lock buttons are pressed
- not fold / unfold the mirrors when the doors lock when the car gets up to speed
- and best of all: still let the mirror fold switch in the driver's door function! 

To do the latter, my plan is to run the mirror folding motor (+) and (-) lines coming from the door controller into the hack module, so that whenever the car hasn't been locked via the remote, these lines will be fed to the mirror motors so that the door controller can control them. In short, the hack module will only temporarily take over the mirror motor lines during a remote lock / unlock event.

Phew.  Thanks for the help, Haadak! In case you're interested, I uploaded a video of pin 3 (in yellow) and pin 11 (in blue) activity during remote lock / unlock and interior door lock / unlock showing the above described behavior:


----------



## Hadaak

Looks like you're gonna have fun


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Looks like you're gonna have fun


Indeed. You'll be welcome to use my module to replace the 361 relay and get your switch function back even with the easy mod (no cross-door wiring), if you care.


----------



## Hadaak

why not  I haven't sealed the doors yet


----------



## Hadaak

One important detail which I hope won't be a show stopper for your module is that once the doors are opened, when you get out of the car, applying Ground to th mirror switch button pin does not work to fold the mirror. This pin is somehow disconnected on the door module when you open the door. You have to get into the car, put the key in ACC position for this pin to be reactivated ! And since this is the only pin which controls both mirrors I don't see how can do without passing wires from driver to passenger door !


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> One important detail which I hope won't be a show stopper for your module is that once the doors are opened, when you get out of the car, applying Ground to th mirror switch button pin does not work to fold the mirror. This pin is somehow disconnected on the door module when you open the door. You have to get into the car, put the key in ACC position for this pin to be reactivated ! And since this is the only pin which controls both mirrors I don't see how can do without passing wires from driver to passenger door !


Thanks for the heads-up, but my solution doesn't require the mirror switch button pin, since I will take the mirror motor (+) and (-) lines as an input to the module!  In short, this is the operation:

1) When a remote lock is detected, the circuit will disconnect the door controller mirror motor lines and instead connect 12 V across the mirror motor for a short time to fold them.

2) When a remote un-lock is detected, the circuit will disconnect the door controller mirror motor lines and instead connect -12 V across the mirror motor for a short time to unfold them.

3) *For the rest of the time (whenever the car isn't remote locked), the circuit will simply pass the door controller mirror motor lines through to the mirror motors.* This is how the mirror switch will continue to control the mirrors whenever the car isn't remote locked.

Should work, no?


----------



## Hadaak

Sure if you put the effort :wink:

Second important detail: make sure to power the mirrors with only one source of power otherwise you lose the dip function. That's why I cut the +/- wires going from the audi module to the mirrors. if i leave the mirrors powered by both the audi module and the 361 relay the dip function is disabled.

So: you click the remote unlock => your module connects to the audi mirror wires to fold the mirrors. When not used your module should disconnect itself from the audi mirror wires to reenable the other mirror funtion (dipping, heating...).
When the mirrors are folded you can keep your module connected in parallel to the audi mirror wires since the other functions cannot be used when mirrors are folded. If you take it further your module should do *only the folding operation *and disappear when unlock button is pressed.


----------



## Mech33

Hadaak said:


> Sure if you put the effort :wink:


No problem, it's just for hobby fun really. 



Hadaak said:


> Second important detail: make sure to power the mirrors with only one source of power otherwise you lose the dip function. That's why I cut the +/- wires going from the audi module to the mirrors. if i leave the mirrors powered by both the audi module and the 361 relay the dip function is disabled.


Indeed, I would not connect two fighting sources to the folding mirror motor control lines. That seems like a bad idea. Just curious though: why does disturbing the mirror motor power lines cause a problem for the dip adjustment? Aren't those separate motor lines?



Hadaak said:


> So: you click the remote unlock => your module connects to the audi mirror wires to fold the mirrors. When not used your module should disconnect itself from the audi mirror wires to reenable the other mirror funtion (dipping, heating...).
> When the mirrors are folded you can keep your module connected in parallel to the audi mirror wires since the other functions cannot be used when mirrors are folded. If you take it further your module should do *only the folding operation *and disappear when unlock button is pressed.


That's exactly the plan.


----------



## Hadaak

Mech33 said:


> Indeed, I would not connect two fighting sources to the folding mirror motor control lines. That seems like a bad idea. Just curious though: why does disturbing the mirror motor power lines cause a problem for the dip adjustment? Aren't those separate motor lines?


I guess the dipping motors rely on the +/- lines for power and having too much juice causes this behaviour :?


----------



## Hadaak

mmmm ! no more candidates for the mod


----------



## rnwd202295x

What a great project. I will have to get the required items and give it a go!


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## Hadaak

And I it is still working like a charm on my side


----------



## Gizmo68

Hadaak said:


> And I it is still working like a charm on my side


+1


----------



## rnwd202295x

I emailed Scott at 'Autowindow' today about the 'Reflex' module that was mentioned earlier in the thread. I asked if he shipped to the UK and if how much, but only replied that the module had not been tested on a 2009 TTS and it was therefore not supported.

Was this the reason you did not take that option or the price ($145 excl P&P) or what?

Roger


----------



## Hadaak

I was not sure these modules were compatible and I didn't want to pass wires from door to door. there is another module mentioned in this thread, sold by a german company, around 80€. It also requires passing wires from door to cabin to door... My mod is easier...


----------



## rnwd202295x

Did anyone get the VCDS codes to work on their TT that was posted earlier? I only get 'version' when I press 'car' on my system. Is this because I have DIS?

Roger


----------



## Hadaak

Don't hold your breath on that one, mate  I did a lot of reading and there was even a spanish guy trying to dump and recode the chole module on some vw cars but no chance. you either buy a reay-made module and find out if it's compatible with the TT or go for my solution... I'd say my solution is pretty straigtforward :mrgreen:


----------



## gogs

Is this mod possible on any TT spec?
Do you need to have the folding mirror option in the first place or can you just fit the motors to allow the mod to be done?


----------



## Audi TT RS PLUS

That's I'm thinking also... :roll: Is it possible to retrofit folding mirrors?


----------



## Hadaak

gogs said:


> Do you need to have the folding mirror option in the first place or can you just fit the motors to allow the mod to be done?


Yes.


----------



## Hadaak

Audi TT RS PLUS said:


> That's I'm thinking also... :roll: Is it possible to retrofit folding mirrors?


I guess so. You need the new mirrors with motors + folding mirror modules.


----------



## humidorek

Hi, I found this usefull topic and did the folding mirrors. *Hadaak* - thank you for detailed description. I translated it and posted on our (polish) TT forum (http://www.klubtt.pl/showthread.php?133 ... amkiem#top). I hope, you don't mind 

This is it in my car: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... NF82B1lzQQ

As I get something from you, I will give something to you. I think - no many people knows that door modules in TT from year 2008 have changed. So the pins in 20 and 32 pins connectors are different (not all, some). That is the reason of not working mirrors adjustment if we do the pro-version. On mentioned pin 6 of 32-pin connector should be "BE-Terminal 58b (1)" but there is in fact "BF - Mirror Adjustment L/R". Below are all four pins of mirror switch in 32-pin connector:
Switch > connector (<2008) > connector (2008>)
1 > 6 > 25
2 > 22 > 21
3 > 23 > 8
4 > ? > 6

*The full pinology of new modules* (from year 2008) you can find nowhere in TT sites. I found it on A3 Site - http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-spor ... nigel.html

Unfortunately, even if I connect the Relay PIN 12 (SE) to new module pin 25 (blue-red) in 32-pin connector, the folding does not work (but all others mirror adjustment work fine). So there is still described problems with incompatible signals. Thats why I will install another custom switch I-0-II that will fold the mirrors from inside and cut-off PIN 12 (SE) for winter (eg this switch http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/e ... archDetail) as on below scheme: 


Position II is manual folding, I - automatic folding, 0 - disabled (eg. for winter)


----------



## Hadaak

a bit late but glad to see you managed to make it work for your model. My mod is still working for since I installed it. The only thing I haven't done yet is re-enable the switch for manual folding but I don't need it right now so I'm happy with automatic folding only.


----------



## Vangu

Hey guys,

I know and i was reading a lot in the forum about this topic, but i still have a doubt about retrofitting folding mirrors in my TT since i just have termo ones.

I have a 2007 2.0 TFSI TT and just bought the TTRS folding mirrors with their motors/modules these references are actually :

8J8 959 801 D - 8J8 959 802 D

I know that the 2008 cars comes with another central modules so im not 100% sure if with all those parts and the new switch i can make them fold. I have a friend that had some problems installing them in the 2007 cars.

Thank you so much.


----------



## itwasntme187

I have got it on my A3 and on a few others A3s and TTs for folding on lock as well as retaining the manual switch.
One of my TT customers told me about this thread and it was a good surprise to see this is still going on strong.


----------



## Hadaak

And it is still working on mine  rock solid


----------



## Hadaak

Due to my recent fight with the broken windows regulator I decided to take advantage of the door being completely naked to close this topic with the final missing piece. the button 
So I have done some tests and here are the choices. I'll be waiting for your votes:

This final version of the setup will need only one relay. if you have two then keep the other as a spare part.
2. To be able to close the mirrors manually you have these options (and here goes the vote)

A small note of how the relay works: When the relay gets ground on the SE pin it opens the mirrors. When there is nothing on this pin (wire diconnected) it closes the mirrors. so options are

A. Modify the existing button to add a miniature custom board to manage connecting disconnecting the SE pin on the relay. When you turn the button to the close position this should disconnect the wire coming from the safe lock and going to the relay. when you turn the button to the other positions this should connect this wire. this means hacking the button and adding some rotating mechanism or something like that. I already got the button out but it's tricky to open so I consider this a complicated option
B. Add a small button (on/off) near the close position of the oem button to manage connecting/disconnecting the safe lock wire. this seems easy with a nice round button. just drill a small hole and add the button the connect the wire coming from the safe lock pin to one end and the wire going to the SE pin of the relay to the other. there is enough room for a small button. I will add a pic of the type of button suitable for this.
C. Add a bigger button near the fuel tank button and the boot button to switch between powering the mirrors from the relay or from the original pins. this seems more reasonable since you can go back to manual quickly (without having to remove the door trim) if the relay goes kaput. By switching back to the oem power wires the relay no longer controls the mirrors. I'm going with this option. what would choose? 
One thing though: I don't know how electrically viable this last option is since switching power means sending +12v on the ground wire if the oem button is on the close position and the relay is in an open position. but I guess this is not that critical since the relay does that all the time, switching polarity to open/close the mirrors.

opinions are welcome before I seal the doors once and for all (I hope)


----------



## Hadaak

switch button nice and shiny like this. size to be confirmed.


----------



## ReTTro fit

I'm going another route, fitting door modules from a golf 
A lot easier, neater and is oem

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Hadaak

and for the third option: a switch like this behind the fuel/boot buttons:


----------



## Hadaak

ReTTro fit said:


> I'm going another route, fitting door modules from a golf
> A lot easier, neater and is oem
> 
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Interesting. Can you give us more details about these modules. Do they integrate well with the mirror button? And that's an expensive option I guess.


----------



## itwasntme187

I have installed loads of these with the factory button working perfectly as well as the folding on lock. 
Just use a couple of dpst relays behind the door cards to keep the factory switch active


----------



## Hadaak

Details please !


----------



## IC_HOTT

hmmmmm 

relays bought, looms made, ready to go and - relax :lol:

on hold now pending the outcome your next step hadaak, 
not having had the card off yet i dont know what the inside of the card looks like but if the button is likely to not be used or just rarely, is there an even more discreet place for it?


----------



## Hadaak

The button can be placed hidden either under the steering wheel or easily accessible behind the fuel cap button. I will upload pics when ready.


----------



## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> This final version of the setup will need only one relay. The button can be placed hidden either under the steering wheel or easily accessible behind the fuel cap button. I will upload pics when ready.


ah so you will use the original switch wiring to somehow control the relay to control both mirrors! presumably the 'lock' signal to simulate turning the switch to fold ?
what wiring diagram have you at the moment, can you share?


----------



## Hadaak

Ok I'm looking into another option. Did some tests today and will need to confirm all this later. Stay tuned


----------



## Hadaak

So the best solution is to use a relay which switches the mirror motor +/- wires to the original wiring when you unlock the door. This way when you unlock the door things go back to the oem state. Why this is the best solution (either with a relay or a manual switch) is because: 
1. The 361 relay folds the mirrors when it does not get a ground signal on the SE pin. I found out I wrote the opposite in some of my posts in this thread. I will correct that later. This is because when you lock the door there is no ground signal on the safe/lock pin (pin3) and you have to wire the 361 relay so that when pin SE is not connected (or no ground signal is present) the mirror is in a folded position. Remember, the 361 relay just reverses polarity. To wire it so that the mirror is in folded position you have to remove the wire coming from safe/lock pin from pin SE on the relay and test the mirror motor wires by reversing them until the mirror folds. 
This means that the mirror folds when no ground is present on pin SE. The oem switch uses a ground pulse/signal to close the mirrors. So if you simulate the mirror switch ground signal you'll be unfolding the mirrors. So tapping into the fourth pin of the mirror switch wire (ground when switch is in fold position) does not work. Not in my 2009 version at least. 
2. If you try to reverse things by using another relay and setting it to disconnect safe/lock pin wire from pin SE on 361 relay when it gets ground signal (coming from the switch fold position = pin 4) it will work BUT it will also fold the mirrors when you turn the switch to the right side (passenger) mirror !!!! And to the heating position !!!! Both positions send a ground signal over the 4th wire !!! So this is not an option. I'm using 2 361 relays (one in each door) and thought maybe this is messing with how the switch functions but I'm not so sure. 
Since the only difference between this setup and the oem setup is powering the mirror motors from the 361 relay instead of the original relay, it is very easy to get back to the oem behavior by switching back to the oem wiring when you unlock the door. I'm now looking for a relay which can be triggered by a ground signal (safe/locked) and can switch between two connections (2 wires per connection). suggestions are welcome.


----------



## IC_HOTT

re "I'm now looking for a relay which can be triggered by a ground signal (safe/locked) and can switch between two connections (2 wires per connection). suggestions are welcome."

It sounds like you simply want a DPDT relay like the switch in an earlier post above to swap signals around.
To trigger by ground just have live on the other side of the coil . Or am I missing something?










have you a wiring layout to see ?


----------



## IC_HOTT

itwasntme187 said:


> I have installed loads of these with the factory button working perfectly as well as the folding on lock.
> Just use a couple of dpst relays behind the door cards to keep the factory switch active


'loads of these' !
can you elaborate and give some detail please, eg wiring


----------



## Hadaak

grasmere said:


> itwasntme187 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have installed loads of these with the factory button working perfectly as well as the folding on lock.
> Just use a couple of dpst relays behind the door cards to keep the factory switch active
> 
> 
> 
> 'loads of these' !
> can you elaborate and give some detail please, eg wiring
Click to expand...

I also asked but no reply. I'm not sure this will work with the switch in the TT. I tried to simulate this by sending a ground signal to the 361 relay. It works like I said before but it also folds the mirror when you put it in the heating position !!! the switch is somewhat CAN controlled I guess. But you can still use all those relays to make it work. I just want to have the least amount of bits in the door. two relays for both doors (if you're ready to pass wires between doors) are enough I guess, I just have to figure out the second one.


----------



## Hadaak

grasmere said:


> re "I'm now looking for a relay which can be triggered by a ground signal (safe/locked) and can switch between two connections (2 wires per connection). suggestions are welcome."
> 
> It sounds like you simply want a DPDT relay like the switch in an earlier post above to swap signals around.
> To trigger by ground just have live on the other side of the coil . Or am I missing something?
> 
> 
> 
> have you a wiring layout to see ?


I though about DPDT relays but from what I read they distribute power. What I'm looking for is something like this:

Mirror needs 12v source to fold and unfold based on polarity
We have two power sources = relays 361 for key fob and OEM relay in door module for switch
The current setup cancels the oem relay and relies on the 361 to do the job. wires are cut because the 361 relay confuses the oem one: if you keep both sources connected by connecting the mirror to both relays when you unfold the mirror the oem relay still thinks the mirrors are folded and won't let you use the switch X/Y calibration function. the two relays work in opposite directions. 
So my goal is: once the door is unlocked revert back to oem relay by disconnecting the 361 and reconnecting the oem relay.
The manual switch will do the trick but the dpdt relay is not clear form me. I don't want to send power coming from he relay to the different outputs. I want to switch between two existing power sources. the switch is only for the -/+ wires of both relays.
Another solution is to make the two relays work in the same direction of folding un olding. this will require another relay which sends a ground signal to the 361 relay when it gets no ground signal (this what happens when you lock the door). this way both relays can power the mirrors and my guess the switch will work as well. Both relays send power to the mirror motors for a few seconds only and then die. so theoretically there will never be a power conflict on the wiring.


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## Hadaak

I think a dpdt relay will do. I will get one tomorrow and finish this mess


----------



## IC_HOTT

Hadaak said:


> I think a dpdt relay will do. I will get one tomorrow and finish this mess


hows it going mate?


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## Hadaak

Hi Guys. Sorry for the late reply. I did get a dpdt relay and tested it but the results were not that good. The problem is the ODB remembers the mirror motor position and this didn't help. I did the test a while back and didn't write down the results but to sum up: the best option is to add an additional dpdt button instead of the relay. just hide the button behind the fuel cap button and if you need to close the mirrors and keep them closed (if you you lack space in your garage and don't want the mirrors to unfold before getting the car out or when you're going through some tiny spots and you need to fold the mirrors) you just switch the button to the other position (you might need to manipulate (turn) the oem button to make the oem module determine which position the mirrors should be in) . In my case (2009 TT TFSI) you cannot combine the relay with OEM audi mirror module easily but it can be done using a dpdt manual switch. But you will have to wire both doors to the same button. i will try to draw something to show how it can be done.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Thought I'd post up on here to support Hadaak

Also to assist anyone like me who has later door modules

Here's the pin matches on the 20 pin

[TD]20-pin connector (supply, lock) [/TD]
[TD]20-pin connector (supply, lock)[/TD]

[TD]1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)[/TD]
[TD]1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)[/TD]

[TD] 2 - CL motor SAFE[/TD]
[TD] 2 - CL motor SAFE[/TD]

[TD]3 - CL feedback locked/safe[/TD]
[TD]3 - CL feedback locked/safe[/TD]

[TD]4 - CL outside door handle[/TD]
[TD]4 - Not used[/TD]

[TD]5- Vacant[/TD]
[TD]5 - Not used[/TD]

[TD]6- Vacant[/TD]
[TD]6 - CL terminal 31[/TD]

[TD]7 - CL terminal 31[/TD]
[TD] 7 - CL door contact switch[/TD]

[TD]8 - CAN - High[/TD]
[TD]8 - CAN - High[/TD]

[TD] 9 - CAN - Low[/TD]
[TD] 9 - CAN - Low[/TD]

[TD]10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)[/TD]
[TD]10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)[/TD]

[TD]11 - CL motor SAFE/lock[/TD]
[TD]11 - CL SAFE LED[/TD]

[TD]12 - CL terminal 30 [/TD]
[TD]12 - CL motor SAFE/lock[/TD]

[TD]13 - CL keyswitch close/open[/TD]
[TD]13 - CL motor unlock[/TD]

[TD]14- Vacant [/TD]
[TD]14 - Not used[/TD]

[TD]15 - CL door contact switch[/TD]
[TD]15 - LIN[/TD]

[TD]16 - CL motor unlock[/TD]
[TD]16 - CL keyswitch open/close[/TD]

[TD]17- Vacant[/TD]
[TD] 17 - Not used[/TD]

[TD]18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)[/TD]
[TD]18 - CL terminal 30[/TD]

[TD]19 - WL terminal 31[/TD]
[TD]19 - WL terminal 31[/TD]

[TD]20 - WL terminal 30[/TD]
[TD]20

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

Here's the differences on the 32 pin

[/TD]
[TD]32-pin connector (to door trim) (from year '08)
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]1 - BE - Exit/warning lamp[/TD]
[TD]1 - Status LED - Interior locking button[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]2 - BE - Terminal 31 (2) (AWL)[/TD]
[TD]2 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]3 - BF - Window lifter button rear right[/TD]
[TD]3 - Status LED - Child lock button
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]4 - BE - Terminal 31 (1) (AWL)
[/TD]
[TD]4 - Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring) [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]5 - CL SAFE LED[/TD]
[TD]5 - Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor) [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6 - BE - Terminal 58b (1)
[/TD]
[TD]6 - BF - Mirror adjustment L/R[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]7 - BF - Interior locking button (LOCK/UNLOCK)[/TD]
[TD]7 - BF - Window lifter button rear right, driver
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]8 - BF - Window lifter button front right (local)[/TD]
[TD]8 - BF - Mirror adjustment X/Y[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]9- Vacant[/TD]
[TD]9 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]10 - Memory button + emergency off button (only with seat memory fitted)[/TD]
[TD]10 - Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]11 - Memory position buttons (only with seat memory fitted)[/TD]
[TD]11 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]12 - BF - Tailgate remote release button (only in 5-door, USA)[/TD]
[TD]12 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]13 - Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
[/TD]
[TD]13 - BF - Button for tank lid unlock[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]14 - BE - Interior door handle illumination[/TD]
[TD]14 - BF - Child lock button[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]15- Vacant[/TD]
[TD]15 - BF - Window lifter button front right, driver[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]16 - Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring) 
[/TD]
[TD]16 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]17 - Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor) [/TD]
[TD]17 - BE - Interior door handle illumination[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]18 - CL - Inside door handle (not implemented)[/TD]
[TD]18 - BE - Door exit/warning lamp[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]19 - BF - Mirror adjustment L/R[/TD]
[TD]19 - BE - terminal 31
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]20 - BF - Mirror adjustment X/Y[/TD]
[TD]20 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]21 - BF - Window lifter button rear right (local)
[/TD]
[TD]21 - BF - terminal 31
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]22 - BE - Terminal 58b (2) (mirror adjuster switch) 
[/TD]
[TD]22 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]23 - BE - Terminal 58b (3) (mirror/stowage illumination) 
[/TD]
[TD]23 - BF - Window lifter button rear left, driver[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]24 - BF - Window lifter button front left (local)[/TD]
[TD]24 - BE - terminal 58b
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]25- Vacant[/TD]
[TD]25 - BE - terminal 58b
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]26 - BF - Child lock
[/TD]
[TD]26 - BE - Switch/stowage compartment illumination[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]27 - Memory supply terminal 30[/TD]
[TD]27 - Button for interior monitoring[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]28 - BF - Button for tank lid unlock[/TD]
[TD]28 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]29 - BF - Mirror heating[/TD]
[TD]29 - Not used[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]30 - Button for interior monitoring
[/TD]
[TD]30 - BF - Tailgate remote release button (only in 5-door, USA)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]31 - LED - Interior locking button (LOCK)
[/TD]
[TD]31 - BF - Window lifter button front left, driver
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]32 - LED - Child lock button[/TD]
[TD]32 - BF - Interior locking button (LOCK/UNLOCK)[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## ReTTro fit

The mod is exactly the same but obviously you'd need to cross reference the pins from above if you have the later modules

Also, I lost function of the mirrors from the door knob until I cleared all the faults and reset 
I know have full functioning mirrors and are folding perfectly on lock and unlock











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## Blaylock1988

Looks like the BBcode you used above didn't register properly. Some reformatting may be required.


----------



## Hadaak

Congrats on the new super mod  
Glad to see th mod still living.
Mine is still working without issues.
Someday I will install that dpdt switch to switch to oem wiring and control them manually if needed.


----------



## motographics

these guys will fit them for you ! they did a great job fitting my cruise control on my TT MK2

http://hazzydayz.com/tt-mk2-8j-tts-8j-t ... 7-31-c.asp


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## brittan

motographics said:


> these guys will fit them for you !


You miss the point of this. These guys could pay someone else to do the mods but they choose the DIY route simply because they can and for the satisfaction that comes with success.

They are also content to pass on their knowledge and advice. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Hadaak

And I really doubt those guys would really do it. It's not only folding mirrors. It's folding mirrors when you lock/unlock the car using the keyfob.


----------



## ReTTro fit

Hazzydayz 
Will Deffo NOT do the fold from fob mod 
They only fit and code oem kit

On iPhone using Tapacrap


----------



## Hadaak

First failure.Driver side is not working any more. I removed the door trim and checked. The Feedback SAFE pin is not switching states correctly. At first I thought the relay is broken so I unplugged and tested the second relay from the passenger door. Same result. The SAFE pin keeps its "Unlocked" state. If I connect it to a ground spot in the body it changes states and allows folding the mirror. If I try again it just does not change back from unlocked to locked. I re-enabled the OEM switch on the driver side. I noticed that even with the switch changing states take about 15 seconds (folded to unfloded). Something is wrong with driver side door module. Maybe because I tested it too much while investigating how to make the switch work with the relays. 
So now I have a half automatic system  Will look into it later when I have sometime. Maybe a VCDS scan/error flush will reset the driver side module. My carpc is out for some upgrade so I cannot do the VCDS error flush rignt now.


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## Hadaak

I forgot, a nice solution would be to pass wires from passeger side relay to driver side mirror. Anybody did this kind of wiring? I took a quick look and it seems a bit difficult to do. I will have to remove several peices and so on...


----------



## Tebor123

Apologies if this has been asked before but do I still need to buy additional 361 relays if my mirrors are already electrically folding? Planning on doing this over the next few weekends.

Thanks


----------



## ReTTro fit

Yes you do 
And You can only do it if you already have folding mirrors 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tebor123

Nice one ReTTro,

Thanks for the prompt reply!


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## Hadaak

Left mirror stopped working. I had to wire the switch back. I kept the right side wired to the relay/keyfob.
It started by folding/unfolding intermittently. Even with the oem switch wired the mirror takes around 10/15 seconds to react to the unfolding position change. I guess it needs some resetting. I have a vcds cable so if you guys have any info about door module reset you're welcome.


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## ReTTro fit

I don't know if any reset for the door module 
Although some module have a factory reset setting on adaption 
But remember to not your coding first as it will need recoding after

Have you scanned for any faults in the door module ?

Have you checked measuring blocks on the operations ?

If you need and comparisons I'm happy to help as I have the same set up on my car and full vcds

You could also try swapping the modules over from drivers door, it doesn't need to be fitted to the window Reg, just plug the mirror in and test operation 
That would indicate weather it's the module or the actual mirror motor at fault

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hadaak

Thanks for the quick reply 
I did a scan and got the usual errors since I installed the mod. Nothing to indicate a module malfunction.
I did swap the relay and it did work on the right side (I'm using 2 relays). The mirror still folds/unfolds with the switch. I guess it has to do with the ground signal when I lock/unlock the door. When I use the switch I have to put the key in ACC, turn the switch to unfolding position and wait for 15 seconds before the unfolding starts ! something is disturbing the unfolding signal. I will swap the modules and test when I get some time. cheers !


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## Hadaak

I did some tests yesterday and found out that the problem is coming from CL Feedback Unlocked/safe wire coming from the door lock module. I swapped the window modules and the relays and got the same result. I tested voltage on the CL feedback Safe wire and got a difference between the two doors. I get 12v when testing the CL safe wire againt the live 12v in unlocked state and 9v when in locked mode on the right door (LHD car) but I get 12v in unlocked state and 11.x in locked state. I Guess I damaged something when I was trying the different combination of relays when I wanted to keep both relay and switch working at the same time. I only did tests on the driver's door and that's the door which is not working now. 
I will have to open the door module and take a look at the door lock module. That's where the CL safe is coming from.


----------



## yauling112

Hadaak said:


> People asked for a detailed write-up
> 
> 1.	Disclaimer:
> Do at your own risk. If this mod brings a smile to your face when done you and I are to thank. If this mod fries your car during the install or your mirrors later on during use you and only you are to blame
> 
> 2.	What you need: (The easy way: Double Relay install):
> 
> •	2 Audi/VW Relays 361. Part number : 4A0907440. Get yourself another one or two spare relays just in case . I got mine at around 15€ each on ebay. Just don't go asking Audi about this relay since it costs Around 90€.
> •	http://cgi.ebay.fr/VW-Relay-361-AUDI-A4 ... 1c15418095
> •	2x 50cm Meter wiring looms with 5 wires (for the double relay easy install mod). More cables will be required for the single relay mod.
> •	You can take a step further and get 2 sockets + connectors for theses relays to make installation more professional.
> •	Screw driver with Allan keys 25
> •	1 pack (25 pieces) door trim clips (because you will certainly break a lot of them when removing the door trim). Part number : 6Q0868243. Got them very cheap from VW. They might be more expensive from Audi 
> •	1 pack of 10 crimp connectors. (GET FULLY insulated connectors like in the pic. Naked connectors might accidentally come into contact while preparing the mod and fry your car)
> •	Some Velcro scratch tape to maintain the relay in place once it is installed in the door.
> •	VAG tools (3409 and 3392) or equivalent to remove the door trim. Both can be replaced with a flat screwdriver. You just need to be careful when using it to remove the door trim.
> •	Cloth insulation tape (I use HPX brand) to insulate/protect the wires.
> •	A Connector strip with at least 4 pins.
> •	adjustable pliers to crimp the cable connectors (if you do not have pro cable crimping tools)
> •	1 hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.	How it works:
> 
> The Audi 361 relay is a timer relay which inverts polarity on the ME(5)/MA(8) output pins when it gets a continuous ground signal (-) on the pin 12/SE. The mirror motors fold or unfold the mirrors according to this current inversion. The mirror motors stop spinning when they reach max folding/unfolding position. The continuous ground signal is supplied by the central locking feedback pin one of the connectors in the door module. This pin gets continuous ground when the doors are locked with the key fob. The mirrors are maintained in a folded position as long as the ground signal is present on pin SE. when you unlock the door the ground signal is cut on the CL feedback/Safe pin which makes the relay invert ME/MA pins' polarity and unfold the mirrors.
> 
> 4.	The relay pins are:
> Relay PIN 4 (15) --> 12V + (permanent)
> Relay PIN 5 (ME) --> Mirror folding motor -
> Relay PIN 6 (31) --> Ground -
> Relay PIN 8 (MA) --> Mirror folding motor +
> Relay PIN 12 (SE) --> Ground signal to operate the relay
> Relay PIN 14 (RA) --> feedback from the mirror motors micro switch to stop spinning the mirror motors (not implemented in the TT mirrors) => pin not used in this mod.
> 
> This relay will be connected to the door module J386. Here is a reminder of the door module connector pins. Pins in bold italics are the ones used in this mod.
> 
> Connectors, door control unit, driver side -J386
> 20-pin connector (supply, lock)
> 1 - Mirror dip input signal 1 (EC mirror +)
> 2 - CL motor SAFE
> _*3 - CL feedback locked/safe*_
> 4 - CL outside door handle
> 5- Vacant
> 6- Vacant
> 7 - CL terminal 31
> 8 - CAN - High
> 9 - CAN - Low
> 10 - Mirror dip input signal 2 (EC mirror -)
> 11 - CL motor SAFE/lock
> 12 - CL terminal 30
> 13 - CL keyswitch close/open
> 14- Vacant
> 15 - CL door contact switch
> 16 - CL motor unlock
> 17- Vacant
> 18 - WL enable, terminal 87 (vacant)
> _*19 - WL terminal 31
> 20 - WL terminal 30*_
> 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)
> 1 - Mirror status position X (only with seat memory fitted)
> 2 - Mirror terminal 31, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)
> 3 - Mirror supply, potentiometer (only with seat memory fitted)
> 4 - Mirror adjustment motor Y-direction
> 5 - Mirror adjustment motor X/Y-direction
> 6- Vacant
> 7 - Mirror heating
> 8 - Mirror dip output signal 1 (EC mirror +)
> 9 - Mirror status position Y (only with seat memory fitted)
> 10- Vacant
> 11 - Mirror terminal 31
> 12 - Mirror adjustment motor X-direction
> 13- Vacant
> _*14 - Mirror folding motor -
> 15 - Mirror folding motor +*_
> 16 - Mirror dip output signal 2 (EC mirror -)
> 32-pin connector (to door trim)
> not used in the 2 relay mod. Will be used in the 1 relay ultimate mod 
> 
> To make this relay work we need to connect it to the door module as follows:
> 
> 5.	The easy Way: Double relay install:
> 
> Using one relay per door => no possibility to use the mirror switch to fold/unfold the mirrors + requires DIS all door unlock option.
> In this case each relay will be connected to the 16 and 20 pin connectors in the two modules in the driver door and the passenger door.
> 
> Wiring scheme:
> Relay PIN 4 (15)	connected to == > PIN 20 - WL terminal 30 (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Red/green cable.
> This is a 12V permanent wire. Be Careful when manipulating this one.
> Relay PIN 5 (ME) connected to == > PIN 14 - Mirror folding motor - (16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) => Blue
> Relay PIN 6 (31) connected to == > PIN 19 - Mirror terminal 31 (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Brown cable
> Relay PIN 8 (MA) connected to == > PIN 15 - Mirror folding motor + (on the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) Pink
> Relay PIN 12 (SE) connected to == > PIN 3 CL feedback locked/safe (on 20 connector (supply, lock)) => Blue
> Relay PIN 14 (RA) connected to == > Not used.
> 
> 6.	How I did it (quick and dirty  )
> 
> a.	Remove the door trim:
> a.a	Use the VW tool or an equivalent to remove the trim as in the pics on this page:
> viewtopic.php?f=19&t=148866&start=30
> a.b	Remove the 2 screws using an Allan key size 25
> a.c	Get both screws out of their holes or make sure they're completely unscrewed
> a.d	Call superman and give him a hand to pull the door trim starting from the bottom. Do not pull on the top because the upper part of the trim slides in a rail in the door. Get hold of the door trim from the bottom using a flat tool and once you get your fingers under the trim just grab and pull hard. Do not use your foot to push on the door while pulling the trim as you might distort your door. Block the door with your knees and give the trim two or three hard pulls till you hear the clips breaking. Push the trim upward as you go breaking the clips. Remove the broken clips from the door trim and from the door.
> b.	Crimp the 5 wires from the 50cm loom on one end using the pliers and the crimp connectors. The crimp connectors' side goes to the relay pins. Choose and remember the wire colors. Do not connect the relay yet.
> c.	Remove the 16 power supply module. BE CAREFULL when working with the wires of this connector as power is flowing in them even if disconnected from the module since they supply power to the module from inside the car. Work slowly and carefully and avoid abrupt gestures which can result in cutting wires/shorting wires and frying your car electronics 
> d.	Strip a small portion of the 2 PINS 19 - WL terminal 31 and 20 - WL terminal 3 in the 16 supply connector and solder or tightly connect two of the wires coming from the 6 wire loom you just prepared. These two wires will be used to power the relay. Do not cut these wires as they supply power to the module. You just need to tap into them by stripping/soldering or using an appropriate connector. Be careful when stripping the supply cables as permanent juice is running through them.
> e.	Tighten/protect and insulate the wires once connected. You should now have the two wires which will power the relay connected on one side and ready with crimp connectors on the other side. Do not connect the relay yet.
> f.	On the same connector, strip a small portion of the pin number 3 (CL feedback locked/safe = blue wire).
> g.	Solder or connect tightly the wire which will be connected to PIN SE of the relay to this stripped wire.
> h.	Protect and insulate the connection with insulation tape.
> i.	Do not connect the connector back to the module yet.
> j.	Remove the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)) from the module. Pull the red piece of plastic and then press on the bottom of the connector to release it. Go easy as they are a bit hard to pull out.
> k.	Check that the power supply connector is disconnected.
> l.	Cut the two wires 14 and 15 on the 16-pin connector (exterior mirrors)). These wires will not be used anymore as the mirrors will be powered by the wires going from the relay. Do not just strip and connect the relay wires to them as this will cancel the mirror dip function of the mirror switch. You really need to cut the wires. Try to leave some wire length on the Audi connector side in case you would want to cancel the mod later on. And just to make things clear: The wires going to the connector (after you cut them) will not be used. The wires we will use are the wires on the 20 pin connector loom. These are the wires going out to the mirror.
> m.	Protect/insulate the Audi module wires you just cut so they don't come in touch of each other or of any metallic part of the door. Remember power will be flowing through these cables too even if they are not used.
> n.	Using the connector strip connect the two wires in the 20 pin loom (the wires you just cut) to two of the wires in the 6 wires loom. These are the mirror folding - and mirror folding + wires. Refer to the wiring scheme table above.
> By now you have the 5 wiring loom with crimp connectors on one side and 5 wires connected to wires the 2 connectors on the Audi door module on the other side. Now time to connect the 2 connectors back to the door module and to connect the relay.
> a.	Connect the 5 wires with crimp connectors to the relay. Make sure the cable color/connection matches the wiring table before connecting the cables.
> b.	Plug the 2 Audi connectors back. You will hear a sound when you connect the 16 power supply one, don't worry  ! Note: Windows Motors might not work if you try them right after reconnecting the door module. Don not worry ! just give them a minute or two and they will be back to life again.
> c.	Secure the relay in the door to your convenience. I used Velcro tape. Just remember that you need to make sure the relay will not cause rattle or move when driving the car. So you might need to enroll with some noise cancelling tape but don't completely stifle it in tape or cloth as it might heat up and be damaged in hot temperature.
> d.	TEST the driver door.
> e.	If the mirrors fold on unlock or unfold on lock you should check the relay ME and MA pins. You probably inversed them. If so inverse the wires and test again.
> f.	I see you smiling with joy
> g.	Then you're ready to do the same in the other door. Just don't forget to set the Unlock doors option on the DIS to ALL doors.
> h.	AND do not be in a hurry ! DO NOT reinstall the door trim with the clips. Remove all the clips from the door trim and Install the door trim WITHOUT the clips. Use the 2 screws only. I've been using my driver door for many months using only the screws. This will make it easier for you to modify your install and make sure everything is ok before sealing the door with the new clips.
> i.	End of the easy mod.
> 
> 7.	The pro but difficult way: Single relay method:
> 
> This method requires wiring one relay inside the car or inside the driver door the same way we did for the double relay method with two exceptions:
> 1.	The output ME/MA pins of the relay will be used to power both mirrors (-/+ folding wires) in both doors. This means you will need to pass wires from inside the car to the two doors or from the driver door to the passenger door.
> 2.	This method allows the use of the mirror switch button to fold/unfold the mirrors. The mirror switch button PIN 6 on the 32 pin connector should be connected to the SE Pin of the relay. This way when the switch button is in fold position a continuous ground is sent to the SE pin on the relay which makes it fold the mirrors.
> I have not had the time to test this mod, especially the mirror switch button sending a ground pulse to the SE Pin which is connected to the CL feedback which also sends a ground signal to the SE Pin. In this situation the ground signal coming from the button might interfere with the CL feedback signal and send a wrong signal to the Audi Central Locking system. There is probably a need for a cathode on the CL feedback wire to cancel any signal going from the switch button to the CL feedback wire. I will investigate this further.
> With this method you don't have to change the door locking option in the DIS as one single feedback line is used to trigger the fold/unfold action (3 - CL feedback locked/safe pin from the driver's door control module).
> 
> Here is the pinout of the connector going to the mirror switch button and the other door buttons (lock, tank, windows).Pin 6 is the one which folds the mirrors when it gets a ground signal.
> The mirror button switch inside the door has four pins. When pin 1 and 4 are shorted the mirrors fold. Pin 4 corresponds to pin 6 on the connector.
> 32-pin connector (to door trim)
> 1 - BE - Exit/warning lamp
> 2 - BE - Terminal 31 (2) (AWL)
> 3 - BF - Window lifter button rear right
> 4 - BE - Terminal 31 (1) (AWL)
> 5 - CL SAFE LED
> 6 - BE - Terminal 58b (1)
> 7 - BF - Interior locking button (LOCK/UNLOCK)
> 8 - BF - Window lifter button front right (local)
> 9- Vacant
> 10 - Memory button + emergency off button (only with seat memory fitted)
> 11 - Memory position buttons (only with seat memory fitted)
> 12 - BF - Tailgate remote release button (only in 5-door, USA)
> 13 - Alarm system Off button (tilt sensor inactive)
> 14 - BE - Interior door handle illumination
> 15- Vacant
> 16 - Status LED button for interior monitoring (deactivate interior monitoring)
> 17 - Status LED button for alarm system off (deactivate tilt sensor)
> 18 - CL - Inside door handle (not implemented)
> 19 - BF - Mirror adjustment L/R
> 20 - BF - Mirror adjustment X/Y
> 21 - BF - Window lifter button rear right (local)
> 22 - BE - Terminal 58b (2) (mirror adjuster switch)
> 23 - BE - Terminal 58b (3) (mirror/stowage illumination)
> 24 - BF - Window lifter button front left (local)
> 25- Vacant
> 26 - BF - Child lock
> 27 - Memory supply terminal 30
> 28 - BF - Button for tank lid unlock
> 29 - BF - Mirror heating
> 30 - Button for interior monitoring
> 31 - LED - Interior locking button (LOCK)
> 32 - LED - Child lock button
> END OF THE GUIDE


Hi , anyone has done this work? Is it stable?


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## Hadaak

I guess so. Mine stopped working because I fiddled too much with the left side when trying to keep the switch function. I haven't had the time to repair it so far so I went back to the switch.
I think a few members are running the mod.
You need to post your car info so we can see if your door module is compatible.
Other memebers will chime in with their info.


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## yauling112

Need that part of the information? I'll check it.

In addition to using relays, is there any other way? Because this 361 relay in Hong Kong and China very difficult to obtain

If the text attitude look like bad, please forgive me for using Google Translate


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## MT-V6

Hadaak said:


> You need to post your car info so we can see if your door module is compatible.


From what I have found modules D and H are compatible, is that correct?

Do roadster modules fit the coupe? The part numbers are different. Or can the module be easily swapped from the window motor?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## rory182

I like this idea but would definitely want an override switch, get some very hard frosts and icy spells lasting days or even weeks at a time here so I don't fold my mirrors when it's sub zero for fear they'd get frozen in the folded position.

On the same note I wouldn't want my mirrors to automatically try to unfold if frozen in the folded position.


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## MT-V6

Can the mirror folding be tested by supplying 12v to the 2 folding pins 14 and 15?

Does the mirror switch the motor automatically when it reaches the end of its travel?


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## yamyam83

how do u fold them with switch????

Om from Dudley ay i.


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## SwissJetPilot

You need a switch like this -

There's one on eBay at the moment...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK2- ... 0033.m2042


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## yamyam83

aint got that switch.
does that mean i aint got motors, wiring etc

Om from Dudley ay i.


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## Hadaak

aint got it for sure


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## Hadaak

MT-V6 said:


> Can the mirror folding be tested by supplying 12v to the 2 folding pins 14 and 15?


yes. I use the 361 relay to test the folding mirrors on the bench (not mounted to the car).



MT-V6 said:


> Does the mirror switch the motor automatically when it reaches the end of its travel?


No. in the 361 relay case the relay switches polarity for a set number of seconds then stops.


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## Hadaak

I finally had the time to look into why my driver side relay started acting up a while back which made me go to the oem switch.
I've also noticed that the switch was acting up, not folding or unfolding at every request. I opened the door card to check and I found out my own mistake. In my last tests to make both the switch and the relay work I had cut the switch wiring but didn't rewire it correctly so the trigger wire was loose. I soldered it correctly and now the switch is working strong. I'm waiting for some connectors and wires to put the 361 relays back to work.


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## MT-V6

With this mod (single relay method with mirror control switch connected), is it possible to keep the mirrors unfolded when locking? Eg. for washing car, at car shows, etc?


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## barry_m2

I'm going to be looking at doing this in the next week or so. I've read through Hadaak's guide but plan to do the single relay version (like you MT).

There are a couple of bits in the guide that aren't that clear, but ultimately it looks a simple mod. I think I may wait for our resident expert (MT-V6) to do it first


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## Hadaak

barry_m2 said:


> There are a couple of bits in the guide that aren't that clear


I'm still around :wink: 
Let me know if you need anything.


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## barry_m2

Hadaak said:


> I'm still around :wink:
> Let me know if you need anything.


Noticed a couple of potential typo's...

"d. Strip a small portion of the 2 PINS 19 - WL terminal 31 and 20 - WL terminal 3 in the 16 supply connector and solder..."

Think that should be WL Terminal 30 in the 20 Pin Supply..

Also, at the end, you say you haven't tested the single relay with the mirror button. Is this still the case?

Also....

"The mirror switch button PIN 6 on the 32 pin connector should be connected to the SE Pin of the relay. This way when the switch button is in fold position a continuous ground is sent to the SE pin on the relay which makes it fold the mirrors."

Do you cut this wire, or splice Pin 6 to the SE relay pin, also leaving Pin 3 of the 20 pin connector, connected? So effectively 3 wires spliced on to 1 pin?


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## Hadaak

I haven't tested the single relay setup. I haven't tested the button switch + relay setup. I tried to play with this but no time to go through the whole process of understanding how the button works. There is a small pcb in the button. Some German guys did it but I didn't have the time.
Let's focus on the 2 relay setup which works fine and you can modify it so it works with a single relay.

You need:
permanent power to the relay => 12v from the thick ground and +12v wires which supplies the door module.
Two wires going from the door to the mirror for folding => The relay will reverse polarity on this wires to fold/unfold.
1 wire coming the door safe lock trigger => When you lock the door a signal is received on this wire. This is what triggers the relay to send 12v for 5 seconds I think and folds the mirror. When you unlock the signal disappears on the trigger line and the relay reverses polarity and unfolds the mirror.
This is basically how it works. You can test it with one relay using some crocodile clamps. 
So the relay is powered by the door module power supply wires and powers the mirrors on fold/unfold.
This also means you will cancel the switch. You need to cut the wires going to the mirror and connect them to the relay. 
If you don't do that the setup does not work and you might fry something in the process. The mirror will be powered (fold/unfold) by the relay only. And remember this is electronics so if you're into it you can make it work with 1 relay and the switch at the same time once you understand how it works and how to combine all required components to make the switch bypass the relay and the relay bypass the switch. I might try it someday but I'm happy with the 2 relay setup for now.


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## MT-V6

Hi Hadaak, I've had the folding mirrors fitted for a while and have the 361 relay laying around so I thought I'd finally give it a go

My first question was about the relay itself. I gave it 12v and earth, with my multimeter connected to ME and MA. When I earth SE, I hear the relay click and then again after ~5 seconds as expected. However, there was no voltage measured on ME and MA. I was expecting to see +12v/-12v depending on the state of SE

Does that make sense?


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## barry_m2

Can't wait to get this mod working on mine. Any closer MT?


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## MT-V6

I haven't done any more yet but I will this weekend. It would be handy if I knew how the relay operated so I know mine isn't faulty

I did some test wiring to the driver door pins mentioned but also got strange behaviour. I need to have a look with fresh eyes I think


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## barry_m2

I have a relay you can test it against if you like? Or tell me how your testing it and I'll do the same on mine.


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## MT-V6

Oh cool. It's pretty simple if you have a multimeter? If I understand how it should work anyway

12v on pin 15
Earth pin 31
Multimeter to measure DC voltage on pins ME and MA
Then touch pin SE to earth and it should click, then click on after 5 seconds

Mine is clicking but not measuring any voltage on the multimeter at all. I expect to see it give +12v and then -12v as it would operate the mirror motor


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## fgoing

I have a 2009 TTS roadster, US spec, without the factory folding mirrors. I have the folding motors and switch.
I do not have the wiring in the mirrors for the motor.
Does anyone know what else I would need to just have the mirrors fold with the mirror switch?

Thanks for any assistance.


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## MT-V6

fgoing said:


> I have a 2009 TTS roadster, US spec, without the factory folding mirrors. I have the folding motors and switch.
> I do not have the wiring in the mirrors for the motor.
> Does anyone know what else I would need to just have the mirrors fold with the mirror switch?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1827258


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## barry_m2

MT-V6 said:


> Oh cool. It's pretty simple if you have a multimeter? If I understand how it should work anyway
> 
> 12v on pin 15
> Earth pin 31
> Multimeter to measure DC voltage on pins ME and MA
> Then touch pin SE to earth and it should click, then click on after 5 seconds
> 
> Mine is clicking but not measuring any voltage on the multimeter at all. I expect to see it give +12v and then -12v as it would operate the mirror motor


Sorry for the delay... finally got chance to do this..

12v and earth attached.
I have positive probe on ME, negative on MA.
When I Ground SE, it clicks and gives me +12v (on ME), 5 seconds and it clicks again and gives me 0v.
When I remove the Ground from SE, it clicks and gives me -12v for 5 seconds (on ME)... then 0v


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## MT-V6

I'm going to try it out again, hopefully I did something wrong. Otherwise I'll need to order another 361 relay


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## MT-V6

As I suspected my 361 relay was faulty. With another one, I have test wired it to my driver's door today with mixed results

The mirror folds when unlocked with the remote, and folds in when locked with the remote

However when locked with the interior button, the mirror repeated folds in and out. Anyone have any ideas?


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## JohnnyFarmer

ReTTro fit said:


> I'm going another route, fitting door modules from a golf
> A lot easier, neater and is oem
> On iPhone using Tapacrap


Exploring all my options - ReTTro - how did you get on with the alternative Golf - door modules?


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## ReTTro fit

Golf no good, you need scirocco module due to the frameless door / window drop 
However they don't fold on lock / unlock but can be made to with VCP 
I've done exactly that with Rocco modules on my caddy 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

Do you have any info regarding part numbers? I had a big Google last night looking at other cars with frameless windows, Eos, Golf Mk6 convertible, Passat CC but didn't find anything conclusive for RHD cars (there seems to be adaptations for LHD ones)

The Caddy is looking good Rettro


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## JohnnyFarmer

So a look at Advanced in car's YouTube talked about VCP & the 1K0 module when they did this to an EOS - did they mean 1Q0 959 793/792 which is label on the black electronics case for one of the Scirroco's driver's side modules or 1Q0959701/702 the same for the EOS label for the full module. Used prices for these seem to run from £40-80 so quite a bit more than the 8J modules then the VCP coding which appears to be v similar to VCDS but as ReTTro says with the ability to upload a new firmware.


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## MT-V6

I saw that video too. I think they have posted the part numbers in the description


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## JohnnyFarmer

MT-V6 said:


> I saw that video too. I think they have posted the part numbers in the description


Thanks, will check the commentary - would be interesting to see the pin outs - (knowing VAG they've changed them all again :x ) then get one fitted as a trial to see what coding is available on VCDS


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## MT-V6

JohnnyFarmer said:


> MT-V6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw that video too. I think they have posted the part numbers in the description
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, will check the commentary - would be interesting to see the pin outs - (knowing VAG they've changed them all again :x ) then get one fitted as a trial to see what coding is available on VCDS
Click to expand...

VCP only I think, they are GEN3 modules. I believe it is the GEN4 that have the adaptations available in VCDS


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## CurryMan

Anyone seen these 'Auto Folding Control Unit Modules' on Ebay from China:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Intelligent- ... 3541545273

Be great if this bit was true: 
_Easy installation, no need to change any original car lines and setting. The box can be hidden in the center console'_

Would these work or absolutely no chance?


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## JohnnyFarmer

Saw this a while back - a similar unit here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-All-Car- ... SwgsddY11c

has this diagram which makes it look like the SINGLE 361 relay arrangement with wires crossing behind the dash:










But for 8 quid - you'd struggle to buy the box & wires for that - you could have one on each side & save the faff. Is there an ACC 12v in the door (there does not appear to one anywhere else  )

Thanks for spotting it - 2 in the basket - there's a separate auction for a box of 2


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## IPG3.6

Look forward to an update with this - might be the simplest way to solve the auto folding mysteries.



JohnnyFarmer said:


> Saw this a while back - a similar unit here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-All-Car- ... SwgsddY11c
> 
> has this diagram which makes it look like the SINGLE 361 relay arrangement with wires crossing behind the dash:
> 
> 
> 
> But for 8 quid - you'd struggle to buy the box & wires for that - you could have one on each side & save the faff. Is there an ACC 12v in the door (there does not appear to one anywhere else  )
> 
> Thanks for spotting it - 2 in the basket - there's a separate auction for a box of 2


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## Hadaak

I see you guys are still having fun with my mod 
Keep it up  
I still use it with two 361 relays and without the interior switch.


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## MT-V6

Hadaak said:


> I see you guys are still having fun with my mod
> Keep it up
> I still use it with two 361 relays and without the interior switch.


Have you ever seen the issue I have currently?

It folds and unfolds from the key fine. But when I press the interior lock button it folds in and out repeatedly?


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## Hadaak

You can't use the switch with the relay mod unless you do some switch board hacking.
How did you wire the relays. Sorry I haven't read all the recent posts. 
You need to cut the wires going form the module to the mirror motors and use the wires coming from the relay.


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## MT-V6

Sorry, I am referring to the door lock button, not the mirror one

When I lock the doors with the interior button the mirror folds randomly

I have wired it as you describe, the mirror motor wires direct to relay, the the 20 pin connector pin 3 to the relay trigger


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## Hadaak

Ok then I see. Not seen that on my side. might a door control module upgrade or something like that. 
I think I used that button once or twice in 10 years. I will check my setup this weekend if I get the time. 
What happens when you put the switch in the fold position?


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## MT-V6

My modules are H revision, which are the later version. I replaced my prefacelift modules with them a while ago and repinned the connectors. The 20 pin / 3 didn't change though

My mirror switch is in the fold position. I haven't tried changing that so I can give it a go


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## MT-V6

Folding/unfolding the passenger door mirror on the switch makes no difference, apart from a weird delay. Maybe caused by the disconnected driver mirror causing a fault

Hadaak, what part number are your modules? I'd be interested to know, especially considering the wiring changes that happened in ~2009 that maybe something changed internally to the module too. My modules are from a 2011 car with the facelift wiring changes


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## Hadaak

Will try to get you that as soon as I can.
Modules are not showing in VCDS. Will have to open up the door cards.
TT was delivered in july 2009 by the way.


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## G.K

I followed the information from Hadaak

A very big thank you, because now I have the folding mirrors !!! I'm so happy dude !!

For information the most important part to follow is:

Wiring scheme

Thank again !


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## Hadaak

Cheers 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MT-V6

G.K said:


> I followed the information from Hadaak
> 
> A very big thank you, because now I have the folding mirrors !!! I'm so happy dude !!
> 
> For information the most important part to follow is:
> 
> Wiring scheme
> 
> Thank again !


Out of interest, what is the part number of your door modules?


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## G.K

Out of interest, what is the part number of your door modules?[/quote]

I didn't think to write the part number.

I have the option to fold my mirrors from the inside of the car, see the picture









You can find the module her :arrow:


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