# Just fitted Alpine IDA-X305 head unit! (Pics) *NEW Updates!*



## RichDean

I've just fitted the iPhone ready Alpine IDA-X305 into my TT, which has Bose, and, overall, I'm really pleased with it 

Not only can I finally play my iPhone in my car, but it also sounds better than the original Audi Chorus that was fitted. It also looks as if it was designed for this car. The matte black plastic matches the dashboard, the red illuminations match the TT's EXACTLY, even the white illuminated ring on the main volume knob matches the white digits in the instrument cluster. Shhhwweeet!

**** Update **** when I first fitted this head unit, I didn't have an iPhone, just an iPod, but it's worth mentioning that I've now had an iPhone for a long while, and it too works perfectly with the unit. Just in case you're wondering whether you're iPhone will be compatible with the unit, it will!

Fitting took about 2 hours, though this could be done quicker if you know what you're doing, which I didn't, and most of the fitting time was spent feeding the iPod cable through to the glove box. I'll list the items that I used as well as a quick fitting guide after the photos below.









It looks as if it could be original equipment









I was a bit disappointed with the album artwork, which is quite pixelated









The red illuminations match the TT's perfectly and look really good



























By undoing the retaining bolts that hold the glove box in place, I was able to move it down and thread the ipod cable through the interior light fitting, which clicks back in place allowing the cable to sit there nicely.

*Items I used:*

Alpine IDA-X305 head unit - best price £239
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-ida-x305.html

Release keys to remove the original Audi Chorus - £4.99
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/celsus-vw-audi-radio-release-keys-1.html

Autoleads PC9-410 adaptor lead for connecting RCA preouts to Bose - £24.46
http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting_kits/Audi/TT.htm
(when I originally fitted using this, I had issues with low-level interference when the engine is running. This was fixed using a Ground Loop Isolator, mentioned later)

Autoleads FP-05-04 fascia plates
http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting_kits/Audi/TT.htm

*Installation*

Step 1 - Remove the original head unit
I removed the original Audi Chorus head unit by using the release keys, which fit into two small, 10mm horizontal slots in the bottom left and right corners of the Chorus head unit.

Step 2 - Loosen the glove box
I then undid all the retaining screws, which were star-drive, that were holding the glove box in place, and moved it down. I wasn't able to fully remove the glove box, but I was able to pull it down enough to get my hand behind it.

Step 3 - Feed the iPod cable through
With the old head unit removed and the glove box loose, I was able to feed the iPod cable from the head unit housing through to the glove box. The only way into the glove box, without drilling it, is through the interior light fitting at the top. This just pops out by pushing in the clasp. I then fed the iPod cable through and then pushed the light fitting back into place, which just 'clicked' back into it's original position but still allowed the cable to sit through.

Step 4 - Fit the fascia plates
Even though the hole that the Chorus head unit fitted into is standard head unit size, and indeed the Chorus' chassis is the same size as the Alpine's chassis, for some bizarre reason Audi decided to widen the front face of the Chorus head unit. The fascia plates fill in the gaps that this created on the left and right side, and just screwed into two holes that are already there.

Step 5 - Fit the Alpine's cage
Sounds obvious, but I needed to fit this before I could connect the head unit. It was a pretty tough fit, and I had to gently use a hammer to shunt it in.

Step 6 - Connect the wiring
It's worth noting that the block adaptors in the PC9-410 adaptor ARE NOT colour-coded to the car's existing wiring. The PC9-410 has three block adaptors - two black and one red. The wiring that went into the old Chorus head unit also has three block adaptors - two black and one red. It was easy to assume that they go together, and when they didn't fit I started to worry. But then I realised that the colours don't mean anything, you just need to plug the adaptors that fit into each other and the unit should work fine. As I stated before though, the PC9-410 adaptor is causing low-level interference at the moment.

Step 7 - Push the new head unit into place.
This was the easy bit, as it just pushes in and clicks into place.

So overall I'm really pleased with it. It's a great head unit, it sounds really good and it looks as if it was meant to go into the TT. I'd definitely recommend it!

*Update No. 1 - Ground Loop Isolator (GLI)*
If you just connect the PC9-410 to the RCA preouts in the back of the Alpine head unit, you will get some whistling interference when the engine is running. The Maplin GLI gets rid of this completely (http://www.maplin.co.uk/ground-loop-isolator-33172). Its about the size of a mini can of coke, so not small, but you will find space for it by pushing it far back and right, and then down in the space behind the head unit. If you've got a coupe you will only need one as the Bose amp only takes one RCA input, but the Bose amp in the roadsters takes two, so you will need two GLIs.

*Update No. 2 - Getting the flap to close*
In my instructions above, I wrote that you should fit the fascia plates before you fit the cage and head unit. This is how the fascia plates are designed to be fitted, and is probably okay with other, more flat head units, but with the Alpine IDA-X305 it means the flap wont close as it makes the head unit sit too far forward. If you want the flap to close, you will need to fit the cage and head unit first. However, this then causes a problem fitting the plastic surround that came with the head unit, as if you screw the fascia plates in place, you then cant fit the plastic surround. The way round this is to discard the parts of the fascia plates that screw into the dash. The fascia plates actually come in two parts on each side. Theres a base plate that screws into the dash, and a top part that then goes on top to cover the screws. Its the base parts that get in the way of the plastic surround. I haven't used mine. Instead I wedged some Blutack into the back of the top parts and stuck them over the screw holes. This sounds like a bodge but it works a treat and holds them firm in place, allowing you to fit the plastic surround.

*Update No. 3 - Getting a switch live*
If you've got a later model TT (facelift on) then chances are you wont have a readily available switch live, so the Alpine wont go off when you turn the ignition off. "But my old Audi Chorus/Concert head unit turns off with the ignition?" I hear you say. Thats because they use something called a Kan-Bus or K-Bus. They basically have one permanent live power supply that's always on. The K-bus is a system that senses when the ignition is turned off and just sends a signal to the head unit to power down. It doesn't actually supply any power. This is a problem for the Alpine, as it doesn't use K-bus to power down, it uses switch live instead. It needs two power supplies - a permanent live to keep all the settings and a switch live to turn the head unit off with the ignition.

To get over this you will need to run a switch live from somewhere else. You can take one from the fuse box, but I chose to take mine from something called the bus bar which can be found under the steering wheel.

Make sure you disconnect the battery!

First, you'll need to remove the plastic cover thats directly below the steering wheel, which is held in place by four screws (thanks to BigSyd for the pics):




























You will see four coloured points with bolts below them, one yellow with 75x and two red with 30 and one black one that I'm not sure about. Its the yellow 75x one that you want (thanks to Wak for this pic):










You'll need to fit a ring connector to the end of your power wire, approx 5-6mm in diameter. Then unscrew the nut, loop the ring connector over the bolt and refit the nut to hold it in place. Then run your wire up to the head unit, make sure to fit an inline fuse somewhere along it to be safe, and then fit a female bullet connector to the end of the wire. This should then connect to the switch live wire in the Alpines wiring harness, which has a male bullet connector waiting. Job done, the head unit should now power off with the ignition.

**** UPDATE **** from correspondance with other forum members, it appears that, once you have installed the switch live, there may be issues with the colour coding of the permanent live and switch live wires, in that they may be coloured the opposite way round. So connecting red to red and yellow to yellow may actually be incorrect - you might actually be connecting perm live to switch live and switch live to permanent, meaning the head unit may not turn on, or may turn on but your presets may not be saved after turning it off again.

This seems to be to do with the colouring of the wires in the actual Alpine wiring loom, not the PC9-410 connector.

Just to add another level of complexity!


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## Wak

PC9-408 is copout adapter , I hate them, they use speaker out drop them to line level.

You should have a Ground Loop Isolator between the stereo RCA out and the BOSE RCA In which will be much better solution that going to the 408 IMO.

Maplins do a nice GLI with flying RCA leads at both ends which is perfect.

Alpine looks v.cool though! 8)


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## Earni

ah but does the flap shut?


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## Wak

Earni said:


> ah but does the flap shut?


usually it will depend if the cage is fitted on the fascia adapters or if the cage is fitted first and the adapters modded to sit in front. The extra mm's of depth gained usually will allow the Flap to close, but looks like thats been installed as designed, it should close if the face is removed I'd guess.


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## Wak

Have a Look at this .. these work well and there is space towards the back right lower side to drop it.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172


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## Earni

wak, do you need 2 of them?

as theres 2 sets of pre-outs?


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## Wak

Earni said:


> wak, do you need 2 of them?
> 
> as theres 2 sets of pre-outs?


No, only a Roadster uses Front and Rear with Bose and needs 2 which is a bit more challenging to fit them.

A Coupe with Bose only uses the Front Line out and only has a single line in to the amp for all 7 speakers so only 1 GLI needed.
You only need to isolate the Bose amp with this, 
If you want to use the Head units Rear or Sub RCA outs to drive an external amp and/or sub then you shouldnt need another GLI, just the one to the Bose amp.


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## Trev TT

Very Nice Rich, I hope the seat heating controlls were turned up for photo effect, cos Mine are red hot at 2


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## Earni

my bose adaptor has 2 preouts though, they are labelled up front and rear and it didnt make the popping noise. but when i removed the old alpine head unit i forgot where i disconnected the ground loop isolator from doh!


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## rachelc

Edited because I think I was having a blonde moment re the "PC9-408"...

I have ordered the Alpine X305 which should be arriving next week so this thread is of huge significance to me...

Going on previous threads I bought several components in preparation for the Alpine head unit installation:

1 x Autoleads PC9-410 (full Audi Bose wiring loom)
1 x Autoleads FP-05-04 (pair of small plastic rectangular fascia adapters)
1 x Autoleads PC5-52 (aerial adapter)
2x Maplin Ground Loop Isolators (because Apline X305 has two pre-outs)

Point 1:
For those of you yet to perform a head unit swap - all the kit above gives you an extra 2 miles of cabling to hide away behind the dash. Not a fun job! Also, those ground loop isolators are massive!

Point 2:
Can't tell any difference when connected with or without the ground loop isolators. No humming or feedback noice heard on a long drive. Are they really necessary? Are we sure all TT's need these?

Point 3:
Radio reception seems good using the free tiny kenwood aerial adapter that came with my old head unit. Again, is the Autoleads PC5-52 entirely necessary?

RichDean, that head unit looks lovely. I'm glad I've gone down the X305 route!!!


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## RichDean

Thanks for all the good feedback guys, yeah I'm really chuffed!!

Just one a couple of points:

Wak - the GLI's - the interference I'm getting is just a really quiet whirring/crackling, it's hardly noticeable, but I'd like to get rid of it. Would a GLI fix this? I thought they were only for removing the 'pop' as the amp fires up, which I'm not getting.

Earni - the flap doesn't shut with the face on, but with the face off it shuts fine, and the face fits nicely in the little cubby hole below the dashboard/in front of the gear knob. I don't think it matters whether you fit the cage before or after the fascia plates - I fitted it after, but the cage goes as far in as it can, and actually sits behind the fascia plates, so the front of the Alpine sits flush with them

TrevTT - yeah the heater controls were on for visual effect only!  I don't think the engine was even running!

rachelc - good choice, I hope this thread helps with your installation. If you need any help, drop me a PM. Just so you know, I didn't use the aerial adaptor as the TT's aerial connection fitted straight into the Alpines, and the reception is fine, I can get Radio 1 clear as day!


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## TT51

That head unit is so made for the TT stunning mate 8)


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## Wak

RichDean said:


> Wak - the GLI's - the interference I'm getting is just a really quiet whirring/crackling, it's hardly noticeable, but I'd like to get rid of it. Would a GLI fix this? I thought they were only for removing the 'pop' as the amp fires up, which I'm not getting.
> 
> Earni - the flap doesn't shut with the face on, but with the face off it shuts fine, and the face fits nicely in the little cubby hole below the dashboard/in front of the gear knob. I don't think it matters whether you fit the cage before or after the fascia plates - I fitted it after, but the cage goes as far in as it can, and actually sits behind the fascia plates, so the front of the Alpine sits flush with them


The GLI's are for this...
* Remove unwanted noise from your audio system
* Simple installation
* Very effective
A low level filter to isolate the ground between the car stereo and amplifier, to prevent car ignition noise and earth-loop hums.

Every instal I have done included GLI's regardless of amp pops or not I have always used them with no problems for the owners hence I would suggest you try this first as speaker level to line level adapters are dirty ways of interfacing , if you are a true audio enthusiast you'd want to make that the last resort....leave them for Halfords! 

I've fitted the XDA-100 ( I think thats the model number) in two cars and if you fit the cage first the Flap will close with a fascia in place. In order to explain "cage first" it involves a little dremmelling in the housing of the dash and you have to CUT/Modify the Facia adapters to remove the legs the Cage would normally sit against. That will usually give you enough depth to leave the Fascia on.

However.....although that was the customer preference....... in the realms of security you are better removing the face and if closing the flap forces you to do it then its probably better to have it that way!


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## Garvie

Wak said:


> Have a Look at this .. these work well and there is space towards the back right lower side to drop it.
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172


Wak,

How exactly do you fit this? I have the same popping noise since fitting my xcarlink but can't figure out where to install the GLI. Do I have to strip the ends to fit and if so where do I then fit them?

Cheers if you can help.

Garvie


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## SAJ77

Good job Rich, looks 8)

Great write up too 

Saj


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## Wak

Garvie said:


> Wak said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have a Look at this .. these work well and there is space towards the back right lower side to drop it.
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wak,
> 
> How exactly do you fit this? I have the same popping noise since fitting my xcarlink but can't figure out where to install the GLI. Do I have to strip the ends to fit and if so where do I then fit them?
> 
> Cheers if you can help.
> 
> Garvie
Click to expand...

It shouldnt be needed if you have an Xcarlink connected to a OEM radio as the oem Radio does handle the Bose amp the way it should.

Did you connect the Xcar link Ground wire, its quite important to ensure it is connected as it may work and cause the problems you are describing. I have fitted one of these before and it worked fine, no strange behaviour.


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## Dance171

very nice mate 

does it play dvd on the little screen to?


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## RichDean

> Dance171 on Today, 01:08
> 
> very nice mate
> 
> does it play dvd on the little screen to?


Sadly not mate. It doesn't actually have a CD or DVD drive, it's strictly a media receiver


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## Ady.

Looks really nice mate


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## Garvie

Wak said:


> Garvie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wak said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have a Look at this .. these work well and there is space towards the back right lower side to drop it.
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wak,
> 
> How exactly do you fit this? I have the same popping noise since fitting my xcarlink but can't figure out where to install the GLI. Do I have to strip the ends to fit and if so where do I then fit them?
> 
> Cheers if you can help.
> 
> Garvie
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It shouldnt be needed if you have an Xcarlink connected to a OEM radio as the oem Radio does handle the Bose amp the way it should.
> 
> Did you connect the Xcar link Ground wire, its quite important to ensure it is connected as it may work and cause the problems you are describing. I have fitted one of these before and it worked fine, no strange behaviour.
Click to expand...

Yes fitted the ground, but makes no difference. Even tried connecting straight to neg terminal on battery but still no luck :x I contacted xcarlink who responded to say GLI is required. I've also googled it and found quite a few people with the same problem using the xcarlink. My only problem now is how to install the GLI :? Any help would be great


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## naushali

Hi Rich - Great write up and looks fantastic!! - Do you think the sound quality is better than the OEM stereo ??

My volume control button has been playing up and very tempted by the X305

Naush


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## naushali

Hi - just another quick question - Are Alpine units compatible with the parrot 3200 ? Have this set up through my OEM Concert stereo but the chap that fitted it said it couldnt be set up through the car speakers - Can this be done with the Alpine x305 ?

Naush


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## UKRPG

I can answer - yes - even easier than the standard as the speaker outputs as long as their used are through standard ISO connections rather than here there and everywhere with the Audi units


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## RichDean

Hi naushali

Yeah I'd definitely recommend this head unit. It does sound better than the standard Chorus that I had in mine.

There's a fairly decent level of audio customisation - you can go as far as changing the bass and treble frequencies, though I've got to admit it does lack more in-depth customisation out of the box - there are no preset equalisers like other head units I've had.

You can extend the head unit to a much higher level of audio customisation by buying the PXA-H100 IMPRINT Sound Processor unit. This allows you to fully utilise Alpine's Imprint technology, which, I believe, measures the interior of your car for better acoustics, and allows you to use the MultEQ equaliser customisation, but it's an additional cost which is a bit of a pain.

As for the Parrot Bluetooth, UKRPG would be best to advise on this as he knows a lot more about this than I do.

All I know is that it's the KCE-400BT Bluetooth unit that is recommended for this head unit on the Alpine website, but I would assume the 3200 is okay.

Hope that helps!


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## TTRampage

Hi Rich,

I have got to say good work fella, the Alpine xda 305 really does suit the TT interior perfectly! Just a few quick questions as I have also been looking at the Alpine range to replace the standard corus head unit, in a 2000 225 TTR with Bose. In your pics I noticed that it looks like you have got your Alpine feeding through to your dash interface, is this a feature on the xda as standard or do you need a special connector? Having had a look at the Alpine range I have seen that the Alpine CDA 105ri looks like a good model as also has cd player and has what Alpine term 'Vehicle Display Interface' do you know if this is what is needed? I am looking for something to play my iphone through and was also going to get the Parrot Bluetooth module kce 400bt with it for hands free.

Many thanks


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## RichDean

Hi TTRampage,

Yeah I'd definitely recommend one of these units, it is a very good model. Alpine also do two other unit's similar to this one, the X301 and the X303, though I think the X301 has been replaced by the X311, and I don't think the X311 has red illumination, as there's also an X311RR, which does have red illumination.

My friend had got the X311RR in his Type-R and it's a great little head unit, but I got this one as it displayed the album artwork.

In answer to your question, the Alpine isn't actually connected to the dashboard info panel. When I'm driving, I still get all the usual info in the DIS like outside temp, selected gear (I've got the V6 which has the auto/DSG gearbox), but the top two lines of the DIS - the ones that used to say either CD name and track number or radio station, depending on what you're listening to, are now blank.

It would have been nice to have the Alpine's info in there, but there doesn't seem to be any way of connecting it. I can live without it though, and I haven't cut any wires when I installed it so if I ever want to remove the Alpine I can put the old Chorus unit back in there and it should all work fine again.

There are options for the dimmer settings in the new Alpine, though I haven't actually tried this yet, so I'm not sure if that makes it dim when you dim the interior lights like the Chorus did - I'll have to give that a try!


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## UKRPG

I've got the X001 which also has the album covers stc - tbh the dashboard display is so nothing anyway its very quickly forgotten -


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## stu_tt

Me like !! Looks awesome mate. I bought the X-100 which I'm pleased with although track selection proves a bit fiddly when you don't have a passenger to select the tracks. IMO, your new unit looks better than the X-100 8)

stu


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## RichDean

Yeah to be honest I've not really noticed the dashboard display not being there - it's a bit annoying that there's now this blank space, but even when I had the Chorus unit in there I hardly ever actually looked at the dash display to see what CD or radio station I was on!

stu_tt, thanks mate - I've seen the X100 and it also looks like a really nice head unit. I agree though, the track selection buttons are quite small and fiddly, but I'm getting used to!

Another thing that could be improved is actually selecting a track by name - especially if it begins with 'S' as I found out yesterday as it was right at the bottom of the list so it took ages to scroll down. I've only got about 5.5Gb of music on my ipod, but it would be nice to be able to scroll down by letter


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## Smeds

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2009NEW-ALPIN..._Players_PP?hash=item5885411c7d#ht_4072wt_782

Went to Sextons to get a price for one of these today, £350 fully fitted. But have just found this, too good to be true?


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## Earni

looks ok to me, seems a good price although they probably added loads on for fitting


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## Smeds

I've always paid to have headunits fitted in the past but never paid more than £200 all in, so struggling to justify this one. 
I've fitted old headunits for friends but they've always been a bit of a bodge job, though I reckon with the help of this thread I can figure it out. Here goes nothing, what's the worst that can happen?!?! :lol:


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## speedlove

that looks amazing


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## TT DWN UNDER

> Sadly not mate. It doesn't actually have a CD or DVD drive, it's strictly a media receiver


Doesnt it have CD changer controls? I read it on their blurb?... so it should still work the CD changer ...doesnt it?

Nice unit BTw ,strongly considering it....would like to know if anyone fits it as WAK described alowing the fascia to remain on with the flap closed.....


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## Guest

Have a look at some pictures & write-up I posted regarding fitting of an Alpine iDA-X311RR. You can get an idea of the amount of additional equipment required to make it all work properly.

www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 5&start=15

Doug


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## KentishTT

Wak said:


> PC9-408 is copout adapter , I hate them, they use speaker out drop them to line level.
> 
> You should have a Ground Loop Isolator between the stereo RCA out and the BOSE RCA In which will be much better solution that going to the 408 IMO.
> 
> Maplins do a nice GLI with flying RCA leads at both ends which is perfect.
> 
> Alpine looks v.cool though! 8)


I agree with Wak and that's what I did with my Alpine.

I also used the Maplin GLI, very nice and not expensive either.


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## RichDean

Just a quick update - it's been about a month since I fitted the Alpine now, but I've only just got round to fitting the ground loop isolator.

As recommended, I bought the £12.99 one from Maplins:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172

The picture is a bit deceptive, it looks like its a flat, box shape. It's actually a round barrel shape!

It's done the trick though, the low level interference and whirring noise with the ignition on has gone, and I'd go as far to say that it's actually improved the sound quality. It sounds clearer and there's more depth to the sound range.

The Audi's Bose set up seems very weird though. As Wak told me, its only the front amplifier thats running, so that's the one that I connected the GLI to. In fact the back doesn't actually seem to do anything. However, with the GLI connected to front preouts, and the back ones connected straight to the head unit, there was actually more interference, so I just disconnected the back ones and the interference was gone.

I did try connecting the back ones on their own to see if they did actually do anything, but the only noise that came out was a really, really quite sound from the front tweeters, even at high volume it was hardly noticeable, so it looks like the back preouts aren't needed.

The GLI isn't small, probably roughly the same size as one of those mini cans of Coke, but there's enough room if you bury it right at the back-right hand corner.

So now it all sounds perfect!

I can't emphasis enough how much I'm loving this head unit now. It took a bit of fiddling to get it sounding just right, and at first it didn't seem that much better than the OEM Chorus, but now I've got it right, it's so much better


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## ausTT

I wish i could download this STEREO knowledge directly into my head, think the audio shop will be tackling mine - this goes right over my head - its a great read though very informative - WAK your a guru - your site is teaching me LOADS


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## Alex_TT

Nice work Rich!

like you said unit looks brilliant in the car and is a good match to other dash displays and finish!
thankfully i work at halfords so i may have to invest and get one of the fitters on the job!  save me pulling everything about.


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## RichDean

Thanks ALex, yeah it's definitely a very good head unit. If you can get it done in Halfords that will save you some work, they didn't stock it Halfords when I bought it otherwise I would have got it done there too.

But if you do need to do it yourself, it is very easy


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## TT DWN UNDER

I really love the look of this unit but that big knob in the middle really sticks out a fair way and Im not sure you could ever get it in far enough in to be able to close the flap...was thinking you might be able to "mod the knob" and cut it in half and put it back on, but havnt had a close enough look at one yet, so not sure if its possible...love the unit though...


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## RichDean

Yeah its true you cant close the flap with the face on, but I don't find this a problem as I just take the face off and put it in the little compartment underneath where the fuel cap release button is.

As I've got the head unit running off permanent live, this also stops me leaving it on over night!

Wak told me that there is a way of dremmelling the housing so that the unit sits further in, but I didn't want to damage my dash


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## hali

Great write up!
Just wondering if its possible to hook up the stock Audi CD changer to the Headunit.
Altho its great to hook-up with ipod, still kinda miss the CD sound quality. :lol:


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## RichDean

Mate this unit sounds far better than my CD changer ever did.

In fact its worth noting that the Alpine really shows the difference in the quality of your MP3s.

Poorly encoded MP3s will sound crap, but good quality encodes will sound just as good as CDs, so if you encode your CDs at a high bitrate, they will sounds superb. Anything purchased from the iTunes store is already at a high quality. Apple uses their AAC encoding format, which is a lossless format, meaning the songs are encoded without any data loss, wheras traditional MP3s are encoded to remove data that they perceive the human ear cant hear. So a 128kb mp3 will sound crap, even if you burned it to a CD.

Its really noticeable actually, as soon as a well encoded song comes on it sounds so crisp and full of depth.

I don't miss my CD changer one bit. CDs are so last century!


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## Earni

RichDean said:


> Yeah its true you cant close the flap with the face on, but I don't find this a problem as I just take the face off and put it in the little compartment underneath where the fuel cap release button is.
> 
> As I've got the head unit running off permanent live, this also stops me leaving it on over night!
> 
> Wak told me that there is a way of dremmelling the housing so that the unit sits further in, but I didn't want to damage my dash


i didnt have to do any dremeling, it just came out with a little pull allowing the unit to sit approx 10mm further back. my flap closes easily doesnt go anywhere near the front of the HU.
the knob isnt as big as it looks, the head unit is a lot flatter than most others


----------



## TT DWN UNDER

Earni said:


> RichDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah its true you cant close the flap with the face on, but I don't find this a problem as I just take the face off and put it in the little compartment underneath where the fuel cap release button is.
> 
> As I've got the head unit running off permanent live, this also stops me leaving it on over night!
> 
> Wak told me that there is a way of dremmelling the housing so that the unit sits further in, but I didn't want to damage my dash
> 
> 
> 
> i didnt have to do any dremeling, it just came out with a little pull allowing the unit to sit approx 10mm further back. my flap closes easily doesnt go anywhere near the front of the HU.
> the knob isnt as big as it looks, the head unit is a lot flatter than most others
Click to expand...

Dont supose you have some pics Earni? Would love to see what it looks like 10mm back...side and front views  
Also you can hook up an Alpine Cd changer unit to this model, its 20mm wider than the OEM unit but Im sure with a bit of
fiddling it can be made to fit.....


----------



## RichDean

Earni, thats really good to know. If the housing comes out, I might give that a try.

With the housing out though, can you still fix the thin blanking plates either side to fill the gaps?

TT DOWN UNDER, the head unit is very expandable. You can attached and control an Alpine CD changer, you can attach an Alpine bluetooth parrot kit to make handsfree calls, and you can attached an Imprint unit which measures the interior space of your cabin and adjusts the acoustics to get the best sound.

It's a pretty decent unit


----------



## ethan9482

Didnt want to start a new thread on this but I fitted mine today and cant get it to sit far enough back to allow the flap to close..

Also, the side fascia bits, came with 2 screws, dont know if I am being really dumb (probably) but the screws are not long enough to catch on to the holes behind.

I am guessing I am doing something wrong, but any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers


----------



## TT_Tesh

And here I was thinking I was getting a thank you for my help via PM!!! [smiley=bomb.gif]


----------



## Earni

RichDean said:


> Earni, thats really good to know. If the housing comes out, I might give that a try.
> 
> With the housing out though, can you still fix the thin blanking plates either side to fill the gaps?


i didnt use the blanking plates, i got an osir surround instead. the osir surround has to be used on top of the standard alpine surround though otherwise you can see the gap at the bottom.

i'll try and get some pics up this week sometime.


----------



## RichDean

> by ethan9482 on 27 Feb 2010, 21:19
> Also, the side fascia bits, came with 2 screws, dont know if I am being really dumb (probably) but the screws are not long enough to catch on to the holes behind.


Yeah I remember getting 2 screws with mine. Had to push quite hard to get them to bite behind, but they did go in.


----------



## ethan9482

RichDean said:


> by ethan9482 on 27 Feb 2010, 21:19
> Also, the side fascia bits, came with 2 screws, dont know if I am being really dumb (probably) but the screws are not long enough to catch on to the holes behind.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I remember getting 2 screws with mine. Had to push quite hard to get them to bite behind, but they did go in.
Click to expand...

Have now ordered another fascia set that looks like it comes with a set of longer screws aswell as the standard ones so hopefully get it properly finished this weekend - busy busy, replacement temp sensor and led sidelights to fit aswell. On a side note, friend told me apparently the n/s sidelight is a b1tch to change, anyone done it?


----------



## RichDean

> by ethan9482 on Yesterday, 21:53
> 
> RichDean wrote:
> by ethan9482 on 27 Feb 2010, 21:19
> Also, the side fascia bits, came with 2 screws, dont know if I am being really dumb (probably) but the screws are not long enough to catch on to the holes behind.
> 
> Yeah I remember getting 2 screws with mine. Had to push quite hard to get them to bite behind, but they did go in.
> 
> Have now ordered another fascia set that looks like it comes with a set of longer screws aswell as the standard ones so hopefully get it properly finished this weekend - busy busy, replacement temp sensor and led sidelights to fit aswell. On a side note, friend told me apparently the n/s sidelight is a b1tch to change, anyone done it?


Yes it is! Its really hard to get your hand in there - its pretty tight for space


----------



## Earni

sorry to drag up an old topic but i finally got round to uploading a video of the flap closing with the headunit fitted.
i also have the osir surround on there aswell, looks great in my opinion. no dremmelling involved at all.






only a short video but you get the idea.


----------



## KimTT

i like it!
i have the audi concert in atm... buttons faded so might try a new one ...wasnt sure if would look any good ...but it does  nice one


----------



## mac_mac

Hi Rich

Just fitter the 305s. Can I just ask, when you turn the headunit off, does your clock display stay on? (mine does)


----------



## RichDean

Yeah I've noticed that mine does that too. Bit annoying if you're only going into a shop and don't want to take the face off.

it doesn't do it if you don't have the clock as your screen saver though i.e. if you have the album artwork it does go off when you turn the head unit off


----------



## rptt03

Great write up, and pictures. I love this unit so much, the album artwork leaves some to be desired, but overall it's fantastic. It is a very tight fit, on my install I can't close the gate because of the large knob, but looks so nice anyway


----------



## Earni

rptt03 said:


> Great write up, and pictures. I love this unit so much, the album artwork leaves some to be desired, but overall it's fantastic. It is a very tight fit, on my install I can't close the gate because of the large knob, but looks so nice anyway


you can get it to close over the knob:






just need to get rid of the fascia adaptors and get yourself an osir surround. perfect imo


----------



## TT DWN UNDER

Sorry to be a pain Earni, but the Youtube vid is a bit blurry to see the finer details of the install..
Dont suppose you could take some nice clear still shots like the one in the original post, closer up of the setback....cheers


----------



## Earni

yeah sorry dude, still havent got round to taking any. the video was more to prove the flap closed really lol


----------



## Saint TT

Hi
Nice write up for the install.
I've just fitted the same unit.
Is it normal for the radio volume to be lower than the ipod volume? I do have the FM level set to high which helps.
Ta
STT


----------



## RichDean

Hey Saint TT

Not too sure about that. I think one is normally lower than the other, cant remember which one though. It would make sense for the radio to be lower as the iPod/iPhone may be louder because of its own sound check or EQ - I think it still uses the settings that the ipod has for audio instead of it being a straight feed.


----------



## naushali

My OEM Concert unit finally packed it in over the festive period so decided to treat myself to the Alpine x305 which i have had my eye on for some time. I havent got a clue about stereo installation so thanks to this thread, in particular to RichDean, I managed to fit the new unit last weekend. I have BOSE so used the PC9-410 adapter.

Overall the unit is far superior the OEM Concert. The sound quality is fantastic and the lights match the interior lighting in the car. However, i am having a few issues for which i am looking for some advice.

1. When i turn the ignition off, my settings ie the clock and the bass/ treble setting all reset as does the radio setting. I know that others have had problems with an ongoing power supply to the stereo which can drain the battery within a few days but i have the opposite problem. Any advice ?

2. I bought the PC5-52 as my radio reception was poor - however, i find that with it connected its worse!! Any reason why that might be ? where should i connect the little blue clip ? is that of huge significance ?

3. I have an alpine 6cd changer from my old car - i had hoped that this would just be a plug and play in the new alpine unit. However, it doesnt seem to recognise it - I have playe around with the settings but cant seem to get it to work - Any ideas ?

Thanks in advance for any advice

Cheers

Naush


----------



## Fictorious

naushali said:


> 1. When i turn the ignition off, my settings ie the clock and the bass/ treble setting all reset as does the radio setting. I know that others have had problems with an ongoing power supply to the stereo which can drain the battery within a few days but i have the opposite problem. Any advice ?
> 
> 2. I bought the PC5-52 as my radio reception was poor - however, i find that with it connected its worse!! Any reason why that might be ? where should i connect the little blue clip ? is that of huge significance ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Naush


1. You haven't connected up a permanent live to your stereo (red wire), try switching the wires (yellow & red) around to get it to work.

2. You need to connect the little blue clip to a switched live (preferrably the blue/white cable on the headunit) for it to work as it is a powered amplifier, that's why you're not getting any boosted signal.


----------



## naushali

Sorted - Thank you!!

Naush


----------



## markg33

Wak said:


> Earni said:
> 
> 
> 
> ah but does the flap shut?
> 
> 
> 
> usually it will depend if the cage is fitted on the fascia adapters or if the cage is fitted first and the adapters modded to sit in front. The extra mm's of depth gained usually will allow the Flap to close, but looks like thats been installed as designed, it should close if the face is removed I'd guess.
Click to expand...

will this work for other after market head units,i have a sony head unit,came in the car when bought,but the flap will not close,it dosent look like it needs to go much further back,but if i could get it back a bit i would,because having to remove the face kinda defeats the purpose of the nice flap.
thanks ,Mark G.


----------



## TTMBTT

Looks like the best replacement to date for the OE unit.


----------



## RichDean

Finally, after having the Alpine head unit in there for over a year, I've finally got round to getting the flap to close and running a switch live so the head unit switches off with the ignition (and doesn't run my battery down).

Even better, I managed to get the flap to close without modifying the car or buying one of those expensive OSIR surrounds. As in the previous posts, it was the fact that I had fitted the left and right blanking plates before fitting the cage and the head unit. The blanking plates actually made the cage sit 2-3mm forward, which was enough to stop the flap from closing.

So I took them out, fitted the cage and voila - the flap closed fine. The only problem then was that fitting the blanking plates in front of the cage meant I couldn't fit the plastic surround that came with the head unit.

To get over this, I cheated a little bit. As those of you who have used the blanking plates will know, they come in two parts - the base part that screws into the TTs dash, and the top part that covers the screws. It was the base part that was causing the problem, so I just didn't use them. Instead I just put some lumps of blutack in the top parts and stuck them on. Worked a treat.

As for the switch live, I followed Waks advice and ran some 1.5mm cable from the yellow 75x point on the bus bar under the steering wheel and it works a treat.

Anyway, I'm going to add all this to the very first post of this thread in a bit more detail.


----------



## jamman

Loving mine Rich thanks for your help


----------



## KimTT

glad you have it all sorted now... was lucky with mine the flap closed with it in, just a case of making sure wires were right back and down... as for the ignition thing, mine still requires me to turn it off, otherwise as you said will run battery down :S


----------



## Slidejules

Having just spent the day getting bloody knuckles and swearing at my TT, can anyone here confirm that they've managed to get a X313 (which seems to be similar to the 305) installed properly? I've got absolutely everything hooked up, and it all works, it's just as has already been pointed out, there's about a mile of cabling which I cannot fathom out how to hide! The other thing is, when I measure it with a tape, the head unit is the same depth as the hole into which it's sliding (having put the cage as far back as it'll go, so that the flap will close). That means no room for the RCA connectors which are at the back left (as you look from the front) of the unit.

With some brute force I can get it within about 2cm of clicking into place, but still not far enough. The GLIs are hidden at the bottom right behind the climate control, but still it's the RCAs which are cocking things up...

Anyone with any experience of fitting a 313 to one of these cars? I'd love some input as it's driving my crazy...

Tks,

Jules


----------



## RichDean

Getting the cabling to fit behind the unit was always an issue with mine, so the only way I could do it was to somehow wedge all the cabling in the space directly below the unit before I slid it in.

This meant the unit then went back and clicked into place. I certainly didn't have any trouble with the unit touching the space at the back, that sounds a bit unusual to me.


----------



## Slidejules

Day 2 and more bloody knuckles and the job is done! Actually I was measuring it wrong (was leaving the face plate on the head unit when measuring - doh!) - the RCA connectors do fit (just) but you have to make sure there is absolutely nothing behind that side of the unit. I did buy some right angle connectors from maplins but they're completely pointless as you can't get all 4 to fit in a useful way (too close together and too close to the side). Very tricky job indeed!

In the end I took the whole dash to pieces underneath the stereo... once I'd figured out how it all came apart it wasn't so hard to get everything in there, it's much easier to route the cables and tie them all up when the climate control isn't there! Still, there's hardly any spare room at all behind either the head unit or the climate. PITA - a complete pig of a job! Ended up putting the bluetooth unit above the fusebox inside the dash, easier to ground it there and also easier to feed the mic up into the dash. No way it would have fitted in there as well...

Anyway thanks Rich for the input and to anyone else struggling with this... it can be done!

Jules


----------



## miniphantom

Hi Rich, sorry I'm just reading this about running a switched wire to the head unit, on your last pic you have pointed to two ground leads, saying bottom one is easier to undo, why do you undo this as you have not mentioned it in your text.
Cheers, Chris.


----------



## RichDean

> by miniphantom » Today, 20:22
> 
> Hi Rich, sorry I'm just reading this about running a switched wire to the head unit, on your last pic you have pointed to two ground leads, saying bottom one is easier to undo, why do you undo this as you have not mentioned it in your text.
> Cheers, Chris.


Hey Chris,

I'm not sure I understand what you mean there buddy. Which post are you referring to?

Rich


----------



## miniphantom

Hi Rich, it was the post about fitting your alpine head unit, you added a few pics about wiring the switch leadusing bus bar, I'm about to try same, you added a comment to one pic about two earth points, one being easier to get at, but in your text you only mentioned removing yellow nut to add wire, then feeding it to back of sterio, does that help.
Cheers, Chris.


----------



## TTwalshie

I really like these units, however I prefer the flip out monitors but I must remind myself I no longer gunna be driving a peugeot 106! *Facepalm*


----------



## RichDean

> by miniphantom » Yesterday, 10:53
> 
> Hi Rich, it was the post about fitting your alpine head unit, you added a few pics about wiring the switch leadusing bus bar, I'm about to try same, you added a comment to one pic about two earth points, one being easier to get at, but in your text you only mentioned removing yellow nut to add wire, then feeding it to back of sterio, does that help.
> Cheers, Chris.


Ahh think I understand. The pictures that I used were actually borrowed from another post which was about another issue. I was just using them to illustrate where the bus bar is (under the steering wheel) and how to get access to it (by removing the plastic housing).

Basically ignore everything about earth wires, the Alpine will already be earthed through the standard wiring loom, so you don't need to worry about that. You just need to connect the switch live wire to the yellow bolt on the bus bar, as I described in that post.

Any prob probs give me a shout

Rich


----------



## miniphantom

Thanks Rich, your a star, still find it strange the adaptor lead that I had to buy doesnt sort this problem, but I guess its another way of garages making money.

Many thanks for your help and great step by step guide.

Top marks.

Chris.


----------



## RichDean

> by miniphantom » 09 Jun 2011, 20:37
> 
> Thanks Rich, your a star, still find it strange the adaptor lead that I had to buy doesnt sort this problem, but I guess its another way of garages making money.


Not a problem at all. It's not really the fault of the adaptor or the supplier who gave it to you. It's just the fact that the TT itself has a different power set up for ICE than most other cars. Most other cars will have a switch live and a permanent live readily available, but the TT only has a permanent live, and uses something called a Kan Bus or K-bus to power down the standard head unit.

Anyway, glad this all helped


----------



## JSkye

Hi there,

Thank you for this guide! I've been installed car radios in my previous cars, but let's face it, none of them had a manufacturer fitted stereo with bose. So all this is really new to me. I am looking into getting this little alpine:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-ida-x301rr.html

any comments on it? It looks particularly interesting to me because of the affordable price (I know, it doesn't come with colour screen  ). Does anyone have experiences with it?

So, having read your guide, I still need some advice. As my car has bose system, I figure that I need an adapter for this. Does it simply connect the bose connectors with the alpine then and goes in between?

Also, I am not sure whether I need to get both, the PC9-408 adaptor (where the heck does that plug in then or is it all selfexplanatory once the HU is here?) AND the ground loop isolator?

Also, where can I get the right fascias for my TT coupe with Concert I?

I'm rellay sorry for all these dumb questions, but I wanna get all my gear together so I can install it once I've bought the HU and don't have to wait til other bits and pieces are here or I have to come back to finish the installation lateron. Like I said, my TT has the Bose system, which I would like to make use of.

Oh and the thing with the live switch confused me a little. My car is from 2000 and when I turn the engine off, my concert still plays until I actually take the key out of the ignition.

Your help, adivce, links and buying tipps would be reeeeally helpful!

Thanks guys,
Julia


----------



## RichDean

Hey JSkye

In answer to your queries:

1. The 311 is a great unit. My friend had it in his and it was what inspired me to get mine. The 305 is just a more beefed up version, but you can do basically the same stuff with the 311.

2. You need the PC9-410 adaptor, not the PC9-408. The Bose system uses RCA inputs. The PC9-408 is only used if your head unit doesn't have RCAs. It converts normal speaker wires to RCA outputs for the Bose. The Alpine head units have RCA outputs, so the PC9-410 connects these RCAs outputs to the Bose's RCA inputs. I got my PC9-410 from a company called Nexxia.

3. The fascias are also available from Nexxia - two blanking pieces that go left and right of the new unit.

4. Not sure about your switch live. Mines a post-facelift model, and these don't have switch live as they use k-bus to power up/down the standard units. I think the early pre-facelift TTs do have switch live, so you should be alright.

Hope this all helps! Just make sure you read this write up all the way through from page 1 to 6 as there was a lot I found out along the way and it's all written down here.

Good luck!

Rich


----------



## JSkye

That's fabulous, thank you! I will read the full 6 pages before I go ahead and order the adapters and co. 

So with the PC9-410 I won't need any other adapters at all?

And what about the ground loop isolator? Do I still need this when I've got the PC9-410?

Thanks again! Can't wait to get it all sorted! Of course the first (and probblz most tricky) step will be to get my stereo out now since my left key is stuck in the hole and the right key won't get a grip ...


----------



## JSkye

Just celebrating my first minir victory: I actually, finally, managed to get the concert out far enough to pull the cabel out a little, have a look behind and get familiar with the famous tight space behind it (I figure I will get very close to my tt and it's space behind the dash when fitting the alpine, lol!).

So, with this first but vital step, I decided to go ahead and finally order all the stuff 

Right, I have read the thread and also another one about fitting the 311 (which is the one I want to get), and feel prepared to tackle that task (I have no doubt though, that my laptop will have to come with me in the car when I am actually going to get it all done )

Risking that these would be daft question, I am still wondering whether, apart from the PC9-410, I 
a) should really get the ground loop isolator? and
b) what fascias I will need? I am eagre to make the tt flap close (I just love the look of it closed, looks so tidy and flash), so: Will I only need the two little clips for either side that Rich blutacked on? As can be found here: 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-A2-TT-CD-RAD ... 43a3601492

or do I need the other ones for underneath as well, like those:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-TT-A2-A3-A4- ... 3cab75ff55

Again, the easiest and sturdiest way of making it all fit so the flap closes would be wonderful 
I just wanna get it all in at the same time if possible so I don't have to wait with the install 

Thanks again!
Julia


----------



## RichDean

Hey Julia,

You will need the ground loop isolator, even with the PC9-410. It stops some slight interference that you can hear when the engine is running.

The fascia adaptors that I bought are these ones: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=FP-05-04&category=Audi Single Din Fascia&section=

Glad you managed to get your old unit out! It's worth remembering that the connectors that are in there aren't colour-coded to the PC9-410, even though they look like they should be.

Rich


----------



## JSkye

So I got my 311RR HU today and the ground loop yesterday. In preparation for the installation, I was reading through the thread again and I did notice that WAK said that the PC9-410 is rubbish and you should use a GLI instead.

So, waiting for my 410 to arrive, I was wondering: Do I need the 410 if I have the GLI? And: Do I need an adapter for the Bose or does the 408 act as adapter?

And about the installation, I assume you plug the GLI in the HU, then the 410 in the GLI (if I got it right and it is needed)?

Sorry for the confusion 

Cheers
Julia


----------



## JSkye

I think I've answered my question about the installation. GLI goes into the amp inputs in the HU and then the 410 must be going into the GLI and thus connecting the ol Bose with the HU. Right?

So, the only thing that (still) confuses me is: What did Wak mean when he said the 408 is a bad way of connecting? or did he mean the 408 alone (without gli) is a bad way of doing it?

Took me a while to figure out the leads and all with the picture in the manual lol (having very blonde moments there, too  but I have it figured out now. Only thing that'd be interesting to know is: are all these "dead end"-conenctors dead ends that me, not being an electrician, won't understand and won't have to understand?

;P


----------



## JSkye

Got the 410 today so I should have an attempt at swapping the HUs this afternoon, or on the weekend, if works comes in.

I think I'll be able to figure it all out, lol, but I do wonder if I have to do anything with grounding a cable or something? And how I'd do it?


----------



## James Junior

Nice post RichDean, thanks for taking the time to put that together, will be a handy resource for others.

Install looks lovely. Also, A Punk - what an album! [smiley=guitarist.gif]


----------



## ScoopTT

HI Rich,

The Alpine looks very cool matey. I went into my local Radio Specialist enquiring about that very unit and was recommended to go for the Kenwood KDC-BT61U. Reasons for this are as follows:

1) The Red illumination is pretty much an exact match to the Audi Display.
2) Has a internal CD (CD-Rs and MP3 read) and a USB/Bluetooth /IPOD lead-in
3) A built in Parrot kit, which means no compatibility issues with external phone kits and if you upgrading anyway to install both, why not do it with one compact piece of kit,.

All for a very competitive price. I have had to get various bits of kit to be able to link to the BOSE Amp and a MOD so I can close the TT dash flap....but aside from that, all good.

Will post a pic or two when its installed, should be later this month...But my radio guy tells me its the one to go for.


----------



## JSkye

I'm having so much trouble feeding the ipod and USB (or basically any!) cable from the glovebox to the back of where the HU sits. Any suggestions?? I dont even know if the best way is to go up all the way or down a little then back up. I've got really slim and small hands but all I can touch is the outside of the glovebox, no cable, nothing. It's so frustrating!


----------



## JSkye

Right, forget my previous post. I took the glove box off half way and it was easy to feed the cables thru then.

Anyway, I'm stuck now with another prob: fitting the alpine cage. It just is soooo tight that I don't even know if it would get it with a hammer (the metal is so soft). Also, you would never ever get it out again (what if you sell the car, etc.). Without th ecage, though, it doesnt have any grip and I'm pretty sure I need it?

It just seems to hit those two little nubs on each side. Ive bent the cage slightly and it seems like it got over the nubs, but it is stuck again, halfway in. And I do wonder if the HU will fit in the slightly (inwardly) warped cage now.

Just tested again: It doesnt even seem like beating it with a hammer would move it an inch.

Any ideas as to how I can fit the cage or get the HU sturdy in place?


----------



## Wak

RichDean said:


> As for the switch live, I followed Waks advice and ran some 1.5mm cable from the yellow 75x point on the bus bar under the steering wheel and it works a treat.


Sorry to pick on this, but you didnt mention it......this MUST be fused near the bus bar Its a fire risk not to fuse any live wire.

And an update for those that want perfection.... Relay this line from a RED Bus bar bolt (permanent feed) and use a trigger from the Fuse board "S-Contact" circuit to trigger the relay.

This will leave the radio on until you pull the key out of the barrel.


----------



## James Junior

Does anyone know if there would be any compatibility issues if buying one of these head units from Hong Kong or USA? You can pick them up on Ebay for half the price from these regions from reputable sellers...

Also, can you choose the colour of the display on the head unit, as all those I can see are blue!

Any pointers welcome!


----------



## landwomble

Rds doesn't work I don't think. Wouldn't bother me though - got a link?

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## landwomble

OK. Tempted. Dealbreaker is USB support though. I don't plan to use an iPod.
Here - 



 - at 4:30 it looks like it doesn't read id3 tags and that all mp3 files on a USB stick just appear as a massive list.
I need to be able to browse by album/artist etc.
Tell me it's capable of doing this?

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## dougk

hi nice choice of unit looks cool,im having a pioneer unit fitted tomo ,noticed your pics looks like your dash display still highlights radio functions(?)guys at stereo store said removing stock unit means losing displayis this true????????????


----------



## TT DWN UNDER

JSkye said:


> I'm having so much trouble feeding the ipod and USB (or basically any!) cable from the glovebox to the back of where the HU sits. Any suggestions?? I dont even know if the best way is to go up all the way or down a little then back up. I've got really slim and small hands but all I can touch is the outside of the glovebox, no cable, nothing. It's so frustrating!


I had trouble too and found it easier to route the cable to the little skinny shelf thingy under the glove box.

Also, if you dont have an "Ipone" and you use a USB device for your music, whats the biggest one you can plug in?
Could you use one of those small 1TB hardrives? or even a 50G one? cheers


----------



## RichDean

Just added an update to the first post on the first page, to do with the red and yellow perm live and switch live wires on the Alpine's wiring loom possibly being coloured the wrong way round.

This should solve any issues of the unit not turning on, or turning on but then losing presets when turned off again.


----------



## sumpscraper

Hi i can close the flap on mine all i did is cut the side bits of the two trims and then u can push the head unit back more.
Not the best pics but you can see it sit back more


----------



## TT8

Like the new headunit,did you upgrade your speakers,i have standard ones fitted,chorus system.
can someone recommend some to go with a new headunit.
many thanks
Gwyn


----------



## iktank

I am in the process of taking out my Chorus unit with the BOSE system, can the existing cd changer still be used with either the Alpine 305 or Kenwood BT61U
Fantastic guide by the way, I have fitted stereos over the years and would have come stuck without this forum
Cheers
Tank


----------



## ryanmtt

ScoopTT said:


> HI Rich,
> 
> The Alpine looks very cool matey. I went into my local Radio Specialist enquiring about that very unit and was recommended to go for the Kenwood KDC-BT61U. Reasons for this are as follows:
> 
> 1) The Red illumination is pretty much an exact match to the Audi Display.
> 2) Has a internal CD (CD-Rs and MP3 read) and a USB/Bluetooth /IPOD lead-in
> 3) A built in Parrot kit, which means no compatibility issues with external phone kits and if you upgrading anyway to install both, why not do it with one compact piece of kit,.
> 
> All for a very competitive price. I have had to get various bits of kit to be able to link to the BOSE Amp and a MOD so I can close the TT dash flap....but aside from that, all good.
> 
> Will post a pic or two when its installed, should be later this month...But my radio guy tells me its the one to go for.


Hi I am thinking about this headunit also you say the flap closes did you have to do anything special e.g. bodge it to get the flap to close or is the kenwood unit slimmer than the alpine

many thanks Ryan


----------



## mullum

In order to fit a cage for a new unit, does one have to be removed first ? Are there panels inside the cavity that must/can be removed ? The reason I ask is because the head unit I'm trying to fit comes with a cage - but it will not go in the cavity, and I'm worried that the installer who is coming tomorrow is going to take one look as walk away.


----------



## alexi7

Hi, I have to say it looks the dogs bollox.


----------



## 4ndrew

Ok, just fitted this but I got a bit stumped when connecting it to the adaptor... I couldn't find one of the sockets anywhere... I got the red one but couldn't find anything to plug into the second of the black ones... Also the back speakers don't seem to be working... Presumably because I omitted this part... Any help welcomed!


----------



## gogs

Hi 4ndrew,

Which adaptor loom did you get? Do you have a roadster or coupe? Do you have the bose set up?
I fitted one a few months back, only had an issue with the switch live but got that sorted


----------



## StevetS

4ndrew said:


> Ok, just fitted this but I got a bit stumped when connecting it to the adaptor... I couldn't find one of the sockets anywhere... I got the red one but couldn't find anything to plug into the second of the black ones... Also the back speakers don't seem to be working... Presumably because I omitted this part... Any help welcomed!


Check out my post - has a few photos from a couple of us who've been going down the same route.

http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=241901

The central black connector 20W LF/RF isn't used if you've got the Bose system. If you get the twin PC9-410 cables the black one is nothing more than an extension and the upper plug of the two on the black lead isn't even cabled up (its blank).


----------



## 4ndrew

Having lived with this HU for a couple of days now, ive found that the volume resets to very low every time I turn it back on. Is this normal? It's quite irritating.


----------



## Rich196

On my old alpine IDA-001x im sure there was a menu option for the maximum start up volume. So basically if you were blasting music out at full volume when you got out the car. It isn't as loud when you get in.

Alternatively it maybe loosing its memory. Does it store pre-set radio stations if the car is turned off?


----------



## GrandeD

Am i right in thinking that if my headunit isn't storing any settings then i need to swap the red and yellow ignition wires over?


----------



## jamman

GrandeD said:


> Am i right in thinking that if my headunit isn't storing any settings then i need to swap the red and yellow ignition wires over?


You got it


----------



## Smeds

Have just joined the 305 club, had better get reading this thread.


----------



## gogs

It's a good unit Smeds, once you figure out the wiring issue! I also ran an ignition on so as it powers off with the TT


----------



## Smeds

Do I need the PC9-401 if I don't have Bose?

If so, is this eBay special one to avoid or just get a proper one from Halfords?

clicky


----------



## jamman

Smeds all the ones (2) I got off ebay were rubbish mate I ended up using Halfords and had no issues with them


----------



## Smeds

Yeah thought as much.


----------



## Smeds

The cage was a really tight fit, but got it in eventually. Can anybody confirm that non Bose needs the PC9-401?


----------



## Smeds

Also, will I need a GLI if I don't have Bose?


----------



## Smeds

Plugged it in, nothing. Don't even know where to start so gonna have to stump up some cash at the weekend!


----------



## jamman

Take a picture of how you have the harness connected Smeds and I will try and see where you are going wrong.

I take it you have the key in and Ign on before trying to switch the unit on ?

Take a picture of the harness you are using it looks complicated but it isn't


----------



## Smeds

Cheers Jamman, 
Have taken a few pictures but really hard to get a shot that shows any useful info, any help very much appreciated!


----------



## Smeds

Have had another look and have found a couple that don't match.

In the 1st picture the Blue, orange and Yellow are not connecting to anything. It's the black connectors in the 2nd pic, it only has four pins and the two on the right are one space away from where it looks they should be but the colours don't match anyway so may not matter.

Does this help?


----------



## jamman

I think you have prob found your problem Smeds.

Where did you get the cable from because if it's not matching up nothing is going to work no matter how many times you try.

Your power colours are prob going to be two of the following orange yellow and red (amongst others blueblack :roll

Your not alone here mate I bought 2 duff leads before I got one correctly wired


----------



## Smeds

Hellfrauds. Will pop in 2moro, cheers Jamman!


----------



## jamman

Smeds said:


> Hellfrauds. Will pop in 2moro, cheers Jamman!


That's where I got my one that WORKED !

If they are saying it's the right one show them how it doesn't match up.

Good luck


----------



## sazismail

I must say, that is an excellent write up.

In terms of the switched live thing, if i use the standard adapters i bought, mine can be turned on while there is no key in the ignition. I like this feature as if i have the misses in the car, i can leave her some music on while nipping into a shop to get my fix of monster energy drinks. I dont like the idea of leaving the keys in the ignition in the presence of a woman.. no offence girls, so this is rather convenient to me.

Say i manually turn off the stereo by removing the fascia or the power button on the stereo, when i go to park up, would this cause any issues in battery drainage as it will be technically on all the time, or will doing that cut off power to the unit and not drain my battery?

I dont have this head unit, i have a old school alpine cd player, but i'm sure it runs on the same basis as this one.


----------



## Smeds

Got a feeling that 401 is the Wrong one. All the ones in the shop were the same and had all pins in the same place. Can anybody else with non Bose confirm which adapter they have?


----------



## jamman

Smeds it has been known for whole batches of leads to be wired wrongly I think boycie suffered first and loads more followed.

I would ring auto leads and ask their advice.


----------



## sazismail

Smeds said:


> Got a feeling that 401 is the Wrong one. All the ones in the shop were the same and had all pins in the same place. Can anybody else with non Bose confirm which adapter they have?


I bought this one mate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290449999147? ... 1439.l2649

Its a direct replacement of the concert casette player head unit where the rear speakers work off the a amp. I dont have a bose system though.

With this also, it uses one of your rca ports to power the rear speakers, but it works brilliantly.

Its a 404 code.


----------



## Smeds

sazismail said:


> Smeds said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feeling that 401 is the Wrong one. All the ones in the shop were the same and had all pins in the same place. Can anybody else with non Bose confirm which adapter they have?
> 
> 
> 
> I bought this one mate.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290449999147? ... 1439.l2649
> 
> Its a direct replacement of the concert casette player head unit where the rear speakers work off the a amp. I dont have a bose system though.
> 
> With this also, it uses one of your rca ports to power the rear speakers, but it works brilliantly.
> 
> Its a 404 code.
Click to expand...

Cheers, sounds more like what I need, will try and get hold of one.


----------



## sazismail

Smeds said:


> sazismail said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smeds said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feeling that 401 is the Wrong one. All the ones in the shop were the same and had all pins in the same place. Can anybody else with non Bose confirm which adapter they have?
> 
> 
> 
> I bought this one mate.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290449999147? ... 1439.l2649
> 
> Its a direct replacement of the concert casette player head unit where the rear speakers work off the a amp. I dont have a bose system though.
> 
> With this also, it uses one of your rca ports to power the rear speakers, but it works brilliantly.
> 
> Its a 404 code.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cheers, sounds more like what I need, will try and get hold of one.
Click to expand...

No worries mate, its what i bought, from the same place and it works. I've tried a few different ones but this is by far the best solution so far in which no modifications are required. The only thing you'll lose is the rear cd changer, but i'm assuming your installing a new head unit with ipod/mp3 capabilities so it shouldnt be a problem


----------



## Smeds

sazismail said:


> No worries mate, its what i bought, from the same place and it works. I've tried a few different ones but this is by far the best solution so far in which no modifications are required. The only thing you'll lose is the rear cd changer, but i'm assuming your installing a new head unit with ipod/mp3 capabilities so it shouldnt be a problem


Yeah got an Alpine 305s ready to go in.


----------



## Smeds

Received the 404, still doesn't work. Seems like the same connections as the 401.


----------



## Smeds

Well after a week of no music, the chorus is back in the car. Given up on the Alpine for the time being. Que sera!


----------



## Pot Of Jam

Hey Smeds,

I have had the same prob and mine is a Non-Bose.

What you need to do is (this may sound like lunacy but it works) is put both the red and yellow in to the red Y piece.

I will dig out the crappy pic I have from my X-100 install.

The harness I brought had cables that never seamed to match up, I tried all kinds but in the end when I put both yellow and red cables in to the Red Y Piece the stereo came to life but would stay on with the ignition off.

To solve the switched live I had one fitted ( done the same way as in the tutorial, just by someone who knows what there doing) and that cos me £30.

Hope some of this info helps...

Jam Out

*EDIT*
Picture Found...


----------



## Smeds

Helps alot, thanks. I'll get someone to do it all too, just to make sure it's all spot on.


----------



## Pot Of Jam

Yeah its all down to the "K Line", which as far as I understand is a signal cable the tells the stereo to turn on or off, so there's no need for a switched live going to the stereo. But I guess the stereo need two lines to run, hence having them both plugged in to one.

Don't understand it fully but it worked... lol

Jam Out


----------



## bridgedubber

excellent thread


----------



## Smeds

All fitted now, love it. No more CDs for me. Cheers all for this awesome thread.


----------



## jamman

Glad you got there in the end I think it's a great bit of kit


----------



## Smeds

Does anyone know the correct antenna adapter, is it pc5-90?


----------



## jamman

PC5-52


----------



## Smeds

Cheers! Finally ordered the surround for it tonight too.


----------



## yans

Where from Smeds? Cost?
Cheers.


----------



## Smeds

eBay, only a couple of quid.


----------



## yans

Cool, mine is cracked


----------



## Knowles

WAK

I have just bought the alpine stereo in question and im going to have a crack at fitting it myself, I have a 03 coupe tt with the bose stereo (tape deck with cd multi changer in back)

after reading all the treads ive decided to have a crack at it myself, but i am useless at electronics and general car stuff :s.
So i went to nexxia.co.uk and it told me i need;

-ISO to din filter (PC5-90)
-Audi/Porsche Active speaker lead (pc9-408)
-Audi Bose active system lead RCA (PC9-410)
-Audi A4 single din facia adaptor

Also after reading the thread i need a ground loop isolator.

Is that right am i missing anything or is there things there i dont need??

Also im guessing its fairly obvious where all the connecters fit?? But where does the GLI fit? between what and what??

Thanks for your time

Duncan (scared stereo installer)


----------



## jamman

Just read the thread all the info is in there you need but.....

You don't need the 408 if you have the 410 with GLI

GLI goes between HU and 410

Black connector into red and red into black


----------



## LordG71

Knowles said:


> WAK
> 
> I have just bought the alpine stereo in question and im going to have a crack at fitting it myself, I have a 03 coupe tt with the bose stereo (tape deck with cd multi changer in back)
> 
> after reading all the treads ive decided to have a crack at it myself, but i am useless at electronics and general car stuff :s.
> So i went to nexxia.co.uk and it told me i need;
> 
> -ISO to din filter (PC5-90)
> -Audi/Porsche Active speaker lead (pc9-408)
> -Audi Bose active system lead RCA (PC9-410)
> -Audi A4 single din facia adaptor
> 
> Also after reading the thread i need a ground loop isolator.
> 
> Is that right am i missing anything or is there things there i dont need??
> 
> Also im guessing its fairly obvious where all the connecters fit?? But where does the GLI fit? between what and what??
> 
> Thanks for your time
> 
> Duncan (scared stereo installer)


Good luck Duncan - hope the install goes well. I am looking at the same headunit so would be interested how you get on


----------



## jamman

If you steer clear of cheap eBay leads you will be fine


----------



## yans

Good luck Duncan, I've literally just done this.

Only thing I had to do was link the red and yellow wires together to get power to the HU.

I haven't bothered with a switch live as yet but may later if it irritates me.

The sound is awesome. I just use a USB stick it I couldn't get my 5th gen iPod working with it 

Have fun 8)


----------



## yans

A question about the illumination...

I changed mine to red but the LCD screen stayed blue...

Any tips please?

Thanks.


----------



## Alec's TT

"Setting the Wallpaper Color (BGV Color)
BGV Color Type 1 (Initial setting) / Type2
You can select the background color of the display between two types.
Type1 : Blue 
Type2 : Red" -Owners manual


----------



## LordG71

a question for all of you who have installed this HU (or any other)..

1. did you just replace the HU or other component parts? (I would like this HU, but not too sure about all the rest) - do I need to change the Bose setup?

2. what would people recommend?

3. I have just been quoted for the following:

- Alpine iDA-X305s head unit
- Toxic TX-1600 Amp
- MBQuart RUA216 Speakers
- Pioneer ts-W3095s4 Sub

All of the above, fitted, inc cabling, Sub build and Amp build in boot, Tweets in A Pillar = £697.00 :-o :-o

Do I really need all this or will the original Bose setup with the new HU be OK (bearing in mind i am in a Roadster so quality of sound proofing is ..... limited 

Hope you can help with advice and guidance...


----------



## gogs

LordG71 said:


> a question for all of you who have installed this HU (or any other)..
> 
> 1. did you just replace the HU or other component parts? (I would like this HU, but not too sure about all the rest) - do I need to change the Bose setup?
> 
> 2. what would people recommend?
> 
> 3. I have just been quoted for the following:
> 
> - Alpine iDA-X305s head unit
> - Toxic TX-1600 Amp
> - MBQuart RUA216 Speakers
> - Pioneer ts-W3095s4 Sub
> 
> All of the above, fitted, inc cabling, Sub build and Amp build in boot, Tweets in A Pillar = £697.00 :-o :-o
> 
> Do I really need all this or will the original Bose setup with the new HU be OK (bearing in mind i am in a Roadster so quality of sound proofing is ..... limited
> 
> Hope you can help with advice and guidance...


I just replaced the HU, it's a great piece of kit, I didn't see the need to replace speakers, add sub woofers etc but I guess it's down to what your after, I bought the HU for under £200, bought a GLI from maplin and a harness/loom for about £20, spacers to plug the gap either side of the HU £5, added the switched live as it drive me mad but I had the bits lying around for that, so I guess for me around £235 fitting myself :roll: the fitting guides on this thread are excellent so it's an easy DIY job IMO


----------



## LordG71

gogs said:


> I just replaced the HU, it's a great piece of kit, I didn't see the need to replace speakers, add sub woofers etc but I guess it's down to what your after, I bought the HU for under £200, bought a GLI from maplin and a harness/loom for about £20, spacers to plug the gap either side of the HU £5, added the switched live as it drive me mad but I had the bits lying around for that, so I guess for me around £235 fitting myself :roll: the fitting guides on this thread are excellent so it's an easy DIY job IMO


Hey Gogs, great - so glad the first response was just the HU. I started down this route, but then thought it costs nothing to price something up. Just made me wonder if the Bose kits was still ok after 9 years - technology moves on. But if the HU works well with the Bose setup then all good  Also glad to hear this is a DIY job.

thanks
Neil


----------



## gogs

LordG71 said:


> gogs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just replaced the HU, it's a great piece of kit, I didn't see the need to replace speakers, add sub woofers etc but I guess it's down to what your after, I bought the HU for under £200, bought a GLI from maplin and a harness/loom for about £20, spacers to plug the gap either side of the HU £5, added the switched live as it drive me mad but I had the bits lying around for that, so I guess for me around £235 fitting myself :roll: the fitting guides on this thread are excellent so it's an easy DIY job IMO
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Gogs, great - so glad the first response was just the HU. I started down this route, but then thought it costs nothing to price something up. Just made me wonder if the Bose kits was still ok after 9 years - technology moves on. But if the HU works well with the Bose setup then all good  Also glad to hear this is a DIY job.
> 
> thanks
> Neil
Click to expand...

It's all down to what your after, some members think the Bose set up is not great, I have the bose set up and just the X305S in my coupe and I'm more than happy with the sound quality this provides, try it, if you want more you can add the other bits and pieces as you go


----------



## LordG71

gogs said:


> It's all down to what your after, some members think the Bose set up is not great, I have the bose set up and just the X305S in my coupe and I'm more than happy with the sound quality this provides, try it, if you want more you can add the other bits and pieces as you go


...exactly, I think this is the route I will take. Cheers


----------



## yans

Mate, I have just put the x305 in my Roadster (with the factory Bose) and i would say the sound is great. Good quality MP3's on your stick and it does sound good loud.. I have Bass at level 5 or even 6 and treble at level 5. Its good. If I was being fussy I would add a small (extra) subwoofer as the x305 has a 3rd pre-out for a sub 8)

The luxury you have is put the x305 in and see how you get on for a few weeks - if its not enough for you (everyone is different) spend the extra and get the extra bits added... simple as that surely? No point spending the money upfront as you could be very happy with it as it is.... the Roadster has 2 Bose amps don't forget 8)

Keep us posted :mrgreen:


----------



## Janne

yans said:


> Good luck Duncan, I've literally just done this.
> 
> Only thing I had to do was link the red and yellow wires together to get power to the HU.
> 
> I haven't bothered with a switch live as yet but may later if it irritates me.
> 
> The sound is awesome. I just use a USB stick it I couldn't get my 5th gen iPod working with it
> 
> Have fun 8)


Hi Yans,

You sent me private message to which I cannot reply since I don't have enough posts. =/ I put the information you asked to the original post My first TT.

Cheers, J


----------



## yans

Alec's TT said:


> "Setting the Wallpaper Color (BGV Color)
> BGV Color Type 1 (Initial setting) / Type2
> You can select the background color of the display between two types.
> Type1 : Blue
> Type2 : Red" -Owners manual


Thanks Alec... its not that obvious is it... that worked a treat though, all matches now 
Now just to figure out why a USB stick works a treat, but not Apple products - I've tried a 5th gen iPod, a 3GS and an iPod Touch. Strange. I have the Alpine cable.
Great, thanks


----------



## yans

Janne said:


> yans said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck Duncan, I've literally just done this.
> 
> Only thing I had to do was link the red and yellow wires together to get power to the HU.
> 
> I haven't bothered with a switch live as yet but may later if it irritates me.
> 
> The sound is awesome. I just use a USB stick it I couldn't get my 5th gen iPod working with it
> 
> Have fun 8)
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Yans,
> 
> You sent me private message to which I cannot reply since I don't have enough posts. =/ I put the information you asked to the original post My first TT.
> 
> Cheers, J
Click to expand...

Thanks janne,
I've had a read, thanks for taking the time to do that. I am contemplating a processor or something extra but going to spend my next bit of money on a remap I think!!
Thank you 8)


----------



## Smeds

Whats the best fascia adaptor, mine looks pants the normal alpine surround and the two side bits. Are there any other options? Does the A4 one fit?


----------



## LordG71

Smeds said:


> Whats the best fascia adaptor, mine looks pants the normal alpine surround and the two side bits. Are there any other options? Does the A4 one fit?


which one do you have? any pics?


----------



## Smeds

Don't have one sorry, but it's the same as the first pic on page one.


----------



## 4ndrew

Osir do a one piece one, but it's a little expensive fo what it is...


----------



## Smeds

Yeah that one looks perfect, not paying £40 though. Not sober anyway.


----------



## TT-TOM

Quick question for those who have used aftermarket headunit with Bose.

Am i right in thinking you don't need to use the actual speaker connections on the headunit as the sound input comes from the line out which goes directly to the Bose amp via the red connector?


----------



## jamman

TT-TOM said:


> Quick question for those who have used aftermarket headunit with Bose.
> 
> Am i right in thinking you don't need to use the actual speaker connections on the headunit as the sound input comes from the line out which goes directly to the Bose amp via the red connector?


You still use the head unit RCA connectors on the Alpine 305S they are used by the PC9-410 and that connects to the OEM connectors


----------



## TT-TOM

Yea, i meant the high level speaker outs, I thought they were on the Autoleads harness for some reason.

To save room i didn't bother using the power harness, i just used the one that came with the alpine and adjusted it to suit. I also cut off the speaker cables from the alpine loom to save room also. I can always solder them back on if i use the headunit in another car.

I've been the owner of the previous version of the X305 for the past 3 or so years and its been great, gave it to my girlfriend though so had a nice excuse to buy the new version for the TT 

Did anybody else have to file the inside of the dash to get the cage in?


----------



## Smeds

TT-TOM said:


> Did anybody else have to file the inside of the dash to get the cage in?


It was a bit of a struggle but went in with no need for filing.


----------



## TT-TOM

It would have gone in if i forced it but i thought it might give me some trouble if i ever wanted to remove it :?


----------



## the_dixtar

Hi guys, Just bought the same head unit but was sold to use the pc9-404 harness rather than the pc9-410 harness, Connected my harness up and it does nothing !!! I only have 2 connectors from my car dash which the power one slots direct into my new head unit and powers it up so thats all good  but the second connector with the iso leads fits the pc9-404 harness but it only had 2 iso outputs where as the one used in the post originally has 4iso outputs but they are all linked to the same hole on the block on both harnesses from what I can see in pics !! 
do I need this 4 iso connectors or am I fine with just 2? Ive got the unit all connected up and am just getting loads of staic noise and can barely hear the radio. I havent fitted a ground loop isolator yet, could this be the reason?

Please help guys im going mad here lol


----------



## ianboom

I've just used the 404 adaptor for a none Bose system with amplified rear speakers, standard type front speakers.

Ian.


----------



## TT-TOM

I've just taken my GLI back to maplins, no difference with or without it.


----------



## stainzy

Hi guys i had my head unit fitted a week it powers up fine but it looses it's settings when ignition off any one know what I'm missing ? 
Cheers chaps


----------



## LordG71

stainzy said:


> Hi guys i had my head unit fitted a week it powers up fine but it looses it's settings when ignition off any one know what I'm missing ?
> Cheers chaps


have you a permanent live connected? - i believe this is needed to keep the settings


----------



## stainzy

I think it's only the switched I wonder if the pins in the plug r in the wrong place


----------



## ianboom

I'm pretty sure there's only a permanent live to the radio, the Audi head unit uses the K line to get a signal to power up when the ignition is switched on, but it's not an ignition supplied 12volts.
For the switched 12volts, you need to find another feed.
Ian.


----------



## stainzy

Cheers mate


----------



## Amd1691

Hi guys
Going to install a pioneer headunit into a bose system, got the pc9-410 and ground loop isolator 
The TT has only got 1 jack that connects to the red phono jacks and remote and has 1 other that connects to 1 of the 2 slots for the ISO. Plug it all in and the HU does not even power up.
Question- is there any other plug(s) i'm missing somewhere? 
Also the Pc9-410 where the car plug goes in has two wires not connected with bullet type connectors, where do they connect to?


----------



## Amd1691

Thanks to wak
Facelift version tend to lack connectors.
Sorted now.
Top man.


----------



## jamietd

just wondering if anybody had fitted this?
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alp-cda ... 37bti.html
Thanks


----------



## galwaytt

Using the excellent pics at the start of this thread, I've just fitted a Kenwood BT61 hu and it's great. But - and there's always a 'but' - but, I would like to be able to listen/play my hu without having the ignition on. If I wire it using either the harness connections, or the busbar ones, you don't get the choice. My first reaction is to just wire both the red and yellow together, to a common live feed - but I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not.......which leads me to the next question....

The HU intself has a 10A fuse on it- but whether it's on the batt/ign circuit I don't know........convention says to fit a 10A to the supply - I assume this is to the the switched live - or is it the permanent one ?

I know newer cars have a 1hr run-on timer so the hu can't be left on permanently by mistake, and so drain the battery, but I assume this is via a CANBUS protocol of some sort.

Finally, i notice the Kenwood installation book does say that for VW (and hence Audi I assume...), that the Red & Yellow are reversed in their function.


----------



## galwaytt

...very quiet on here !

Anyway, HU now fitted and working, and looks OEM and flap closes perfectly.

As TT-Tom pointed out though, the cage was a very, very tight fit, so yes, had to get out the handfile to get it in. Wouldn't fancy trying to remove it now though !!










Video of it working, here:


----------



## jimob1234

hi just fitted sony bt3900u head unit used the pc9-401smartlead works perfect can even shut the tt flap    
will upload pictures asap


----------



## Oak

jimob1234 said:


> hi just fitted sony bt3900u head unit used the pc9-401smartlead works perfect can even shut the tt flap
> will upload pictures asap


Jim. Does this match the dash or is it a different colour?


----------



## jimob1234

Oak said:


> jimob1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hi just fitted sony bt3900u head unit used the pc9-401smartlead works perfect can even shut the tt flap
> will upload pictures asap
> 
> 
> 
> Jim. Does this match the dash or is it a different colour?
Click to expand...

Yes it matches the dash perfect it lights up red or blue get pictures up soon working away from home


----------



## Oak

jimob1234 said:


> Oak said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jimob1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hi just fitted sony bt3900u head unit used the pc9-401smartlead works perfect can even shut the tt flap
> will upload pictures asap
> 
> 
> 
> Jim. Does this match the dash or is it a different colour?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes it matches the dash perfect it lights up red or blue get pictures up soon working away from home
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim, that would be great. Thanks for replying.


----------



## Dasuke

RichDean said:


> *Update No. 3 - Getting a switch live*
> 
> You'll need to fit a ring connector to the end of your power wire, approx 5-6mm in diameter. Then unscrew the nut, loop the ring connector over the bolt and refit the nut to hold it in place. Then run your wire up to the head unit, make sure to fit an inline fuse somewhere along it to be safe, and then fit a female bullet connector to the end of the wire. This should then connect to the switch live wire in the Alpines wiring harness, which has a male bullet connector waiting. Job done, the head unit should now power off with the ignition.


I was wondering what amperage of inline fuse it should be, and what tools I'd need to fit an inline fuse? Thanks!

David


----------



## jimob1234

fitted head unit no problems


----------



## Duggy

jimob1234 said:


> fitted head unit no problems


Looking good mate 8)


----------



## oz_p

Its probably in here somewhere but cant see it, do you need to fit the GLI's if you have a non-Bose system??


----------



## Russ 182

Hi,

Ive just bought an x305s. Would anyone be able to tell me what other leads etc i need? Ive already ordered a fascia adapter.

What kind of aerial adapter do i need? Am i right in thinking the TT aerial is amplified?

My car is non bose so not sure what lead i need to keep the rear speskers working?

Thanks,

Russ


----------



## mungo

Great write up and super clean install. One question, Did you loose the top section of the LCD screen in the gauge cluster after? I just installed an Alpine head unit also, but when it was done the top section does not show me any warning lights. It still shows temperature outside and fuel mileage left, but not where it would show low fuel or low washer fluid.


----------



## outhy

mungo said:


> Great write up and super clean install. One question, Did you loose the top section of the LCD screen in the gauge cluster after? I just installed an Alpine head unit also, but when it was done the top section does not show me any warning lights. It still shows temperature outside and fuel mileage left, but not where it would show low fuel or low washer fluid.


The top section by shows radio station/track no etc from the factory head unit - the fuel warnings etc will still appear but you lose the radio info unfortunately


----------



## gogs

Yes, you lose the top part, it's linked to the stereo


----------



## Russ 182

Just ordered a pc9-401 harness lead & pc5-52 amplified aerial adapter. Hopefully they are the right leads for a non bose setup. I didnt realise the rear speakers had seperate amplification in a non bose TT.


----------



## oz_p

Which harness do you need for a non bose setup with external amps? All the different one are confusing the hell out of me!


----------



## Jac-in-a-Box

oz_p said:


> Which harness do you need for a non bose setup with external amps? All the different one are confusing the hell out of me!


I assume you mean you'll not be using the OE Bose amp? If I'm right, don't even bother trying to use adaptors.

I recently fitted a DLS amp, sub, speakers and Alpine 9887 HU and found it far easier to provide power connections direct from the bus-bars (see picture earlier in this thread of connections for permanent live, switched live and ground) far easier than ars*ing about with adaptors...just make sure you fuse the live leads with 5A fuse.
Illumunation for the HU can be taken from the ashtray light.

Space behind the HU is tight and if you're using an external amp you'll be needing to run RCA's from the HU to the amp - far easier to tuck away the OE connector and connect power as described above. In my case, the Alpine HU I used had another lump of electronic wizardry connected that needed to be hidden behind the HU...I think it was a DC to DC filter/cleaner.

Have fun, especially when running (and hiding) a hulking great amp power cable from battery to back of car for the amp!

Dave


----------



## oz_p

Thanks for the info Dave.. have done a fair few installs over the years so know whats ahead lol

Have ordered a harness from Halfords, if its the wrong one will take it back and do as you say...

For anyone who is interested Halfords are selling the Alpine IDA-X305S online for £189.99 currently, went for the Alpine cda-117ri myself as prefer the option of having a cd in the front, also on offer I must add.


----------



## Stub

oz_p said:


> For anyone who is interested Halfords are selling the Alpine IDA-X305S online for £189.99 currently, went for the Alpine cda-117ri myself as prefer the option of having a cd in the front, also on offer I must add.


I got my 305s today from Halfords, great deal!

One questions, can you use a normal iPhone cable from the back, I have an active brodit holder with the iPhone lead built in, I was hoping to use this straight into the head unit?


----------



## oz_p

I think it has a USB connection on the back so I expect so.. Check the manual that came with it


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

The original sat-nav still works after installing the X305?


----------



## Russ 182

DolomiteGreyTT said:


> The original sat-nav still works after installing the X305?


In a fashion. It works but you loose the voice instructions


----------



## jays001

Hi All,

Great write up but I am a little confused as to what cables/isolators etc I need to order for fitting the alpine iDA-X305S in my TT that doesn't have the Bose sound system? Its just an Audi concert stereo unit...

Can anyone advise please?

Many thanks!

Jay


----------



## aarond

This is going to be very useful, only replying so I don't have to re-search for this thread!


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

edit: ordered the X305S & KCE-400BT already


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

edit: ordered the X305S & KCE-400BT already


----------



## ipiran

Hi all,

Just put my 305 which I've had for several years, love it. However, I put it in my roadster with bose tonight via a PC9-410 lead and I get a loud pop/boom as the amp switches on when I turn on the stereo or change source or change radio stations. Obviously not as it should be.

I've checked that blue/white remote is correctly fitted, I've tried changing the rca rear L/R to sub and back. I've turned off all the sub settings in the stereo.

Everything seems to be wired up right, as everything works as it should.

Any help would be great thanks


----------



## Pugwash69

Two GLIs stopped those exact symptoms on mine.


----------



## ipiran

And there was me gloating that I had no hissing with the engine running and didn't think I needed GLI's.

Cheers


----------



## jamietd

DolomiteGreyTT said:


> edit: ordered the X305S & KCE-400BT already


what did u pay for the kce 400? ive got the x305s coming but fancy bluetooth


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

129 euro's here in The Netherlands.


----------



## mlingram

Hi All,

It's been a long read but a very insightful one (if a little confusing at times).

I wonder if I can ask for confirmation that the below are the correct components for a Concert Head-Unit replacement.

Mine is a 2003 TT Roadster with BOSE.

I plan on getting an Alpine CDE-133BT and from what I gather, require the following :

1 x Autoleads PC9-410 (full Audi Bose wiring loom) (http://www.nexia.co.uk) £18.95
1 x Autoleads FP-05-04 (pair of small plastic rectangular fascia adapters) (http://www.nexia.co.uk) £5.50
1 x Autoleads PC5-52 (aerial adapter) ISO to ISO Antenna Filter (http://www.nexia.co.uk) £9.95
2x Maplin Ground Loop Isolators

Hope i'm on the right track.

Thanks all in advance
Matt


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

Finally:









It took me and 2 friends 6 hours to get the X305S & KCE-400BT working, such a disaster.


----------



## Desmodave996

DolomiteGreyTT said:


> Finally:
> It took me and 2 friends 6 hours to get the X305S & KCE-400BT working, such a disaster.


Just wondered what issues you had with the KCE-400BT, I've had it installed for a few weeks and it was working fine but as of the weekend everything works bar the mic, yet everything is still hooked up ok...


----------



## DolomiteGreyTT

Setting up the right options in the radio and specific order connecting the cables. If I have to do it again it will take another 6 hours :lol: Looks even better in the dark:


----------



## taTTy

what these aftermarket units really need to set them off is a nice top quality OSIR satin black surround - if only they were still available

however there does happen to be one in the for sale section


----------



## mullum

I like your style ;-)


----------



## bobbin

I have an X305 in my old car and was going to sell it with that in the car. 
Is it worth the hassle of removing it and connecting it up to my TT with Bose setup?
I know its a good headunit but I don't intend to change the speakers or amp in the TT. 
Those who have, was it worth all the hassle, I quite like the sounds from the standard headunit and it has the connects2 so I have iPod playback already. 
Here it is in my old car sitting on the drive not being used


----------



## davidf1

i have just bought a kenwood kdc-bt61u,but i need to know what cables i need to get for connection to the stereo.My tt does not have bose.Any info greatly appreciated.Do i need to have a permanent live for instance.or is that on the cables i can get?


----------



## Pugwash69

You will have a permanent live I believe. My car (year 2000) also had a switched live. You may lack this and have to take a fused wire from the yellow terminal under the steering wheel.


----------



## davidf1

my car is a 2002 model 225 bhp with no bose if that helps


----------



## davidf1

do you know what cables i will need to connect my stereo.I have been told audi active lead AU01 is this correct.or PC9-404 and PC5-52 from halfords


----------



## jimairi

Davidf1 if you have a Halfords near then buy the PC9-404. As a quick check use jumper clip (scotch lock type) between live and the red cable which is comes out of the connector block to feed it live. Test the unit if it works hard wire the red live to the terminal below the dash remembering in line fuse. If it fails Halfords have a return policy and no one will notice a slight nick on the live cable (you could even snip it shorter to remove it).


----------



## davidf1

can you please explain this better for me.I presume you mean the extra block which is left after when you have removed the factory stereo,with a yellow lead going to it.What do i do with it?

thankyou


----------



## davidf1

please explain


----------



## jimairi

Sorry on hols and just checked site . When you connect the two blocks you are left with one unused block, just leave it. There is a red cable in the new block that connects to the block which was the lower block on your original head unit. If you look it does not match a pin in the inside when you join them. This is the ignition live feed. Tt's don't have this because of the system used clip this cable and the power cable together via scotch lock for a quick test if this works then run the live feed from bus bar below dash with in line fuse as permanent fit.


----------



## davidf1

Is there any videos to show me how to do this,or pictures.

It`s allways nice to watch someone do it first to see what you have to do.

Thankyou


----------



## davidf1

Do I need the antenna adaptor PC5-52 signal seperation filter,please advise.


----------



## davidf1

do i need the adaptor cable pc9-401 for my audi tt 2002,it does not have bose on the door speaker covers.


----------



## davidf1

by disconecting the battery while putting in the live feed.Would that cause a problem with anything else,like air bag for instance.


----------



## jimairi

Sorry, I just used the pictures on here, the lead can only connect one way it does leave a bock un connected but this does not cause a problem. Asto the air bag issue, I didn't disconnect the battery, I was very careful not to short out accross any other cables or terminals. Having watchedthe Halfords guy previously fit a piggy back holder for a fuse to split off the ignition live I felt confident I could do a better job. Probabally u-tube will have a fitting video with the connections on show.


----------



## davidf1

am i correct in thinking its the pc9-401 cable adaptor i need for my car,and which cable do i need for the aerial.

thankyou so much


----------



## davidf1

Which antenna adaptor do i need,i seem to be getting different answers,from pc5-52 to pc5-90,even had someone say pc5-137.Which is the right one for me,i have a kenwood kdc-bt61u.And have got the pc9-401 wiring harness.


----------



## pcrepairmandan

ive actually got a X305 that i will be fitting 
so i need the face place. the Alpine-Audi (bose) adaptor & a GLI ? to stop intferance? 
where abouts are you guys fitting the GLI ?


----------



## BaueruTc

pcrepairmandan said:


> ive actually got a X305 that i will be fitting
> so i need the face place. the Alpine-Audi (bose) adaptor & a GLI ? to stop intferance?
> where abouts are you guys fitting the GLI ?


GLI plugs into the rca jacks on the back of the new stereo. You then hook the rca jacks from the loom into the other end of the GLI. Then you have the fun part of cramming it all down the back of the cubby hole for the stereo.


----------



## Smeds

Just in case anyone is thinking of buying one..... viewtopic.php?f=15&t=386321


----------



## RichDean

Hi everyone,

So after starting the original thread back at the end of 2009, I'm now selling this exact head unit, due to no longer having the TT (baby on the way!).

If you're interested in buying a superb head unit - probably the best you could get for the Mk1 - that still looks and works as new, then please view my Marketplace post here: http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=423954


----------



## reece1591

Right I have a model of this stereo in the tt I got week or 2 back and have a issue.

I am not like 99% of people in world that has a iPhone iPad or iPod lol I like to use CDs as I always found having a iPod connected or my phone connected to car a massive distraction.

Looked in the hand book and says you can link up the cd changer in the back to it but says need a lead. Where could I get one from if I need one? Don't want to rip it all out to look then try and fit it all back in then remove again once lead arrives.


----------



## Smeds

Mine is on eBay now if anyone is interested. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alpine-iDA-X3 ... 20db594885


----------



## TT8

Hi All, I have recently had fitted the Bluetooth unit (kce-400bt) it worked fine for a week or so then just stopped communicating with my phone, I cannot play any music, apart from radio also the phone doesn't work due to the lost connection, any help would be greatly appreciated

Regards

TT8


----------



## TT8

Hi guys, I have had my Ida x305s fitted along with the 400 bt Bluetooth unit for a while now and every few days the Bluetooth connection is lost. The only way to reconnect to my i phone 3GS is to dissconect battery and reconnect , but connection only lasts a few days. Has anyone had this problem and overcome it. Is there an update to resolve this.

Thanks


----------



## eldiablott

+1


----------



## mullum

It might be your 3GS, perhaps bluetooth was a bit flaky with the version of iOS you're using. Are you on the most up to date version, compatible with the 3GS ?
Can the head unit's firmware be updated at all ?


----------



## jimbo200sx

I'm just in the process of fitting my Pioneer 350BT to mine (facelift edition), and have a couple of queries. I'm at the stage where the wiring is all but sorted, just need to make the unit physically fit! Anyway:

In a car with the kanbus system, is there a way of having the headunit turn off when the key comes out? At the moment it's wired with the permanent live to the red wire, and the switched live to the bus bar. This keeps my settings, but the unit turns off with the key?

Also, in terms of the sound distribution from the bose amp, does it have filters to send the different frequencies to the various speakers? With no eq settings on the head unit it seems to split them pretty effectively so I'm guessing that's how they do it....

Cheers

James


----------



## asahartz

jimbo200sx said:


> I'm just in the process of fitting my Pioneer 350BT to mine (facelift edition), and have a couple of queries. I'm at the stage where the wiring is all but sorted, just need to make the unit physically fit! Anyway:
> 
> In a car with the kanbus system, is there a way of having the headunit turn off when the key comes out? At the moment it's wired with the permanent live to the red wire, and the switched live to the bus bar. This keeps my settings, but the unit turns off with the key?
> 
> Also, in terms of the sound distribution from the bose amp, does it have filters to send the different frequencies to the various speakers? With no eq settings on the head unit it seems to split them pretty effectively so I'm guessing that's how they do it....
> 
> Cheers
> 
> James


From Wak's post on p7 of this thread:



> And an update for those that want perfection.... Relay this line from a RED Bus bar bolt (permanent feed) and use a trigger from the Fuse board "S-Contact" circuit to trigger the relay.
> 
> This will leave the radio on until you pull the key out of the barrel.


I rigged this up for mine then found I didn't need it as my car is pre-canbus! So mine stays on until I pull the key anyway.

But here's some helpful pics:

Fusebox: need to remove the Torx screws found under the fuse cover here.










Cover needs to be removed from lower dash. Release the switch connector from the back of the lighting switch which allows the cover to be removed completely to give enough access.










The relay panel and bus bar. The yellow (75) terminal is ignition feed, the red (30) terminals are permanent live.










The rear cover of the fusebox unclips and swings free.
Wiring freed from the back of the fusebox. The s-contact fuse is the yellow/red wire at the bottom of this pic, which interestingly in my car has had a wire patched into it before and later cut off. I unsoldered it and soldered the new wire into the same place.










My relay & fused feed all ready to connect up. I used an old Toyota relay, hence the odd shape, but it fits neatly into a space in the relay board. Red wire with loop terminal ready to connect to bus bar, brown ground, red/green going off to the left is my output.










All connected up!










Also, filing down the raised sections from the sides of the plastic box makes it easier to fit the cage for the new hu:










As regards the frequency distribution, Bose engineers designed the system into the car, hence the number of speakers and unusual locations of some of them. That's what makes replacing the entire system something of a nightmare! I think it works pretty well.


----------



## jimbo200sx

Thanks for the above advice, much appreciated!

I've got it all fitted now, and am very pleased with both the way it looks and sounds. With a few tweaks to the EQ it definitely sounds better/tighter than the original CD player imho, although you really notice the difference in quality of mp3s.


----------



## mamwr

Hi guys does anyone know of a thread which discusses this relay setup in a bit more detail? Or could recommend what relay to use? I would like to set this up when I install my new stereo in a couple of weeks but don't know what relay to use...

Thanks!

All connected up!


----------



## asahartz

mamwr said:


> Hi guys does anyone know of a thread which discusses this relay setup in a bit more detail? Or could recommend what relay to use? I would like to set this up when I install my new stereo in a couple of weeks but don't know what relay to use...
> 
> Thanks!


I'm sure it's discussed somewhere further up the thread...

Anyway, that's my pic; I used an old Toyota relay as I had a few in stock. Nothing special about it, just a normally-open contact. You should be able to pick up something suitable from any car accessory shop, or Maplins.


----------



## mamwr

asahartz said:


> mamwr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys does anyone know of a thread which discusses this relay setup in a bit more detail? Or could recommend what relay to use? I would like to set this up when I install my new stereo in a couple of weeks but don't know what relay to use...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure it's discussed somewhere further up the thread...
> 
> Anyway, that's my pic; I used an old Toyota relay as I had a few in stock. Nothing special about it, just a normally-open contact. You should be able to pick up something suitable from any car accessory shop, or Maplins.
Click to expand...

Hi asahartz

Thanks for the advice. I read somewhere that the s-contact fuse (no 37) was specifically for the stereo before Audi started using the can-bus for power down. Once can-bus came in, the relay was still installed but not actually doing anything. Therefore it could be used directly for switched live to the new stereo without a relay.I also read somewhere else that this might not be true as it possibly controls something else to do with the car and could cause problems tapping into it. Therefore not sure whether this is the case. Maybe should just buy a n/o relay as you did!

Also, perhaps you can advise on something else. I have the pc9-410 adapter and on the red connector the 4x RCA leads come off it but also there is a blue and white cable. Presumably this takes power to the Bose amp? It needs to be connected to a blue wire off the head unit. There is a blue wire going to the black ISO plug which is 'power control' but there is also a loose blue and white wire which is also called 'power control / antenna control'. Any idea which one I should use? Or either? If it helps, the HU is a kenwood KDC-BT73DAB.

Cheers!


----------



## asahartz

The blue & white "antenna control" is the one you connect to the blue & white in the PC9-410. This should also be connected to the antenna adapter as the aerial is in the rear screen and its amplifier needs power through the aerial cable. (I skipped this as I only use DAB!)


----------



## mamwr

asahartz said:


> The blue & white "antenna control" is the one you connect to the blue & white in the PC9-410. This should also be connected to the antenna adapter as the aerial is in the rear screen and its amplifier needs power through the aerial cable. (I skipped this as I only use DAB!)


Nice one thanks mate!


----------



## paulw12

Wow excellent thread.
Going to attempt this soon..... [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## StrokerTT32

What fuse should I use on switch live wire to my HU ?

I am using 2.5mm wire from 75x.

10 AMP ?


----------



## paulw12

Yeah 10amp is what I used.


----------



## sferg410

Wak said:


> an update for those that want perfection.... Relay this line from a RED Bus bar bolt (permanent feed) and use a trigger from the Fuse board "S-Contact" circuit to trigger the relay.
> 
> This will leave the radio on until you pull the key out of the barrel.


Can you explain this for us idiots who dont understand 'relay this line' , 'use a trigger' etc...?
I will be putting a stereo in my 2003 TT when the harness and stuff arrives, how much power cable do i need for the switch live, 1m enough?
Thanks


----------



## sparky88

Okay, I've just read through pages and pages of this thread but I'm still confused. I've managed to track down an Alpine X305, installing into my 2001 Mk1 TT 225 with Bose.

So my questions are pretty much the same as everyone else's:

1) Which wiring adapter do I need? I see a lot of mentions of the *Autoleads PC9-410* but I contacted Autoleads and they've told me I need the *PC9-408*? (and the local car audio shop recommended something different altogether - Celsus AIS2250A)

2) How many Ground Loop Isolators do I need? 1 or 2?

3) Do I also need an aerial adapter?

Looking to get a definitive shopping list together so I can crack on and fit this!

Thanks


----------



## sferg410

sparky88 said:


> Okay, I've just read through pages and pages of this thread but I'm still confused. I've managed to track down an Alpine X305, installing into my 2001 Mk1 TT 225 with Bose.
> 
> So my questions are pretty much the same as everyone else's:
> 
> 1) Which wiring adapter do I need? I see a lot of mentions of the *Autoleads PC9-410* but I contacted Autoleads and they've told me I need the *PC9-408*? (and the local car audio shop recommended something different altogether - Celsus AIS2250A)
> 
> 2) How many Ground Loop Isolators do I need? 1 or 2?
> 
> 3) Do I also need an aerial adapter?
> 
> Looking to get a definitive shopping list together so I can crack on and fit this!
> 
> Thanks


Autoleads PC9-410 if it is Bose system.
PC5-90 Aerial adaptor.
FP-05-04 Facia Adaptor
A switched live wire run from under the steering wheel to the stereo.


----------



## sparky88

sferg410 said:


> Autoleads PC9-410 if it is Bose system.
> PC5-90 Aerial adaptor.
> FP-05-04 Facia Adaptor
> A switched live wire run from under the steering wheel to the stereo.


Thank you

No Ground Loop Isolator?


----------



## sferg410

sparky88 said:


> sferg410 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Autoleads PC9-410 if it is Bose system.
> PC5-90 Aerial adaptor.
> FP-05-04 Facia Adaptor
> A switched live wire run from under the steering wheel to the stereo.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> No Ground Loop Isolator?
Click to expand...

Was that the thing to stop the buzzing??? If so then no, I do not have one of those and there is no buzzing at all.


----------



## sparky88

Hi all.

After a 2 week saga of being unable to get my X305 to work I've finally got it in the car and working.

My only remaining question is relating to feeding the iPod cable through to the glovebox. The original post just says about feeding it through the interior light, but my problem is how do you even get the cable through to the glovebox area?

From what I could see when I had the stereo out there's a "wall" to the left of the centre console and the only place you could thread the cable through was right at the very back where the car's loom runs through, and there's no way I could thread a cable through there!

How are you supposed to get it through to the glovebox?

I've temporarily run my cable into the drivers side small cubby hole under the headlight switch.


----------



## sferg410

Why dont you just get a tiny USB memory stick and put your music on that like I have. Why do you want to piss about with a crappy ipod in the glove compartment!!??


----------



## sferg410

My bad, the USB stick is not plugged in, in that photo. Will put one up tomorrow. Tiny 128GB black memory stick smaller than my thumb nail


----------



## sparky88

sferg410 said:


> Why dont you just get a tiny USB memory stick and put your music on that like I have. Why do you want to piss about with a crappy ipod in the glove compartment!!??


Because the x305 displays album artwork (which playing off a USB drive wouldn't) and also USB wouldn't have the same easy file sorting or shuffle functions as on the iPod.

I did consider having a high capacity solid state drive to store all the music on at first until I found out about those drawbacks.


----------



## sferg410

sparky88 said:


> sferg410 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why dont you just get a tiny USB memory stick and put your music on that like I have. Why do you want to piss about with a crappy ipod in the glove compartment!!??
> 
> 
> 
> Because the x305 displays album artwork (which playing off a USB drive wouldn't) and also USB wouldn't have the same easy file sorting or shuffle functions as on the iPod.
> 
> I did consider having a high capacity solid state drive to store all the music on at first until I found out about those drawbacks.
Click to expand...

OK, didn't know any of that.


----------



## sparky88

So anyone able to advise with cable routing into the glovebox?


----------



## actu_8

Maplins done seem to do the Ground Loop Isolators any longer. Ebay has loads. Would a 4 RCA (4 in 4 out) do the trick? Or is 2 in 2 out OK?


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## stevov

I plugged a Bluetooth USB receiver into the back of the unit and just play music from my phone. Hands free sort of works also but with a bit of delay so not worth the hassle


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