# The Turbo Tin-Can - Track Car Progress



## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

So, I figured I'd get a progress thread going on the Turbo Tin-can!

*Background*
I'm a VW/Audi nut. My "daily" is a B7 RS4 avant which is my pride and joy, and I got my wife a mk5 golf GTi DSG. Pics below




























Prior car history is - 2x Polos, a Mk4 Golf GTi 1.8T, B6 S4, B8 A4 2.0T quattro

Since I got the RS4 a couple of years ago, I've taken it on track a few times and as much fun as it was, I was worried about binning it! After seeing how much fun people were having in cheaper, smaller, lighter cars - I formed a plan to get one!

I've gone in halves with a mate on the TT, after we considered other contenders such as Clios, MX5s, S2000, E36 328 etc etc. As soon as the TT came up for sale though, I knew this was the one!

*The Car - As Purchased*
We purchased in March 2017 from another forum member who had decided to sell, sadly due to his wife's illness (I hear she's on the mend now). It's not the prettiest thing in the world, and my mechanic has a real issue with the interior colour scheme! However, a lot of the hard work has been done for us. Until it's days as a track car, it was well looked after by Audi and the TT shop.

As we bought the car, the following had been done:

Much of the interior stripped
Stage 1 Remap (tuner I've never heard of though)
Ramair Panel filter.
Decat (with cat for mot purposes)
Skoda Fabia VRS discs.
Carbotech xp10 pads on front.
Ds 2500 pads on rear.
Lowered 40 mm on springs.
Federal RSR tyres.
Bucket seats on audi subframes.
Safety Devices rear cage.
6 point harnesses.
Rally Mudflaps.

The seller did inform of us some intermittent faults on the knock sensor, and the EGT sensor. We also had the ESP light come on soon after purchase (accompanied with the ESP randomly kicking in), which my VAG-COM traced to a faulty ABS yaw sensor. After clearing codes, the EGT sensor fault didn't return but the others did.

The seller also noted that after hot running on track for a while, the car would lose power at high revs. Possibly connected to the knock and EGT sensor faults.




























*Progress so far*
The plan was to do the following before trackday 1:

Most importantly - bin those mud flaps!
Swap out the ABS yaw sensor and knock sensors
Install Cookbots in superpro bushing, with rear wishbone caster increase bushes
TTRS brake ducts
R32 rear ARB (picked up for £25 from the R32 forum!)
Powertrak haldex insert

However! We were thwarted by locking wheel nuts and a missing key! The previous owner of the car couldn't find it either! We tried a number of different sockets to try and hammer one on but couldn't get one on. I also bought some locking wheel nut removal tools from Halfords and screwfix which wouldn't even reach the lockers as they're so deeply recessed into the wheels! Bugger.

So, this meant that we couldn't get the cookbots on, and the delay meant the mechanic didn't get to the haldex insert or TTRS ducts.

*Trackday 1*
We took the car up to Bedford for the first trackday - first time up there but I'd heard good things, and there's nothing to hit! My mate and I also booked in 30min each with an instructor in the morning session to learn the track, get some pointers, and learn the car.

It was epic fun!! A couple of issues we noted though; brakes seemed to lose bite towards the end of each stint, and in the afternoon we experienced the power loss issue (accompanied by high coolant temps).

I also had a passenger ride in Lee's track TT, which was a real eye-opener on the capabilities of the car, and also in hindsight probably quite an expensive 15min as I now want some upgrades!! Lee has also been massively helpful with advice, on the day and on the forum too.

*What's next*
Next trackday 18th May Donington (evening only).

First thing's first, we need to get those damn lockers off! I bought some more locking wheel nut removal tools, that should be the right size, and also deep enough and slim enough to actually reach the head of the bolt. Dropped off to the garage yesterday - fingers crossed

Once the lockers are in the bin; cookbots, TTRS ducts, and haldex mod.

I've also been put in touch with TT guru WaK (thanks to the forum), who happens to live 15min from me! He seems to have some ideas on what may be causing the heat issues, and had some suggestions for a couple of upgrades before I bring the car to him and we log the car and pin down any engine issues. I'll probably end up getting him to remap the car (I suspect the current map is rubbish and might be the root of some of the issues), so I've bought a badger5 TIP and a K&N S2000 cone filter to be fitted at the same time.

I'm also now on the hunt for coilovers (sub £600 ideally), and some 8.5" wide wheels (17" or 18") so I can get some 255 tyres on! I could use the BBS CH-R's from the wifes golf with adapters as they're 18x8.5 (but 5x112 ET47) and need changing now I've put brembo 18z calipers on her car. I've got 18" neuspeed wheels on order from the US for the golf, which have much better brake clearance. So I could then keep hold of the BBS wheels, although it'd be cheaper to sell and buy something with the right offset for the TT&#8230;.hmm

There are also a number of small jobs:

- Reinstall some form of power supply, e.g. cigarette lighter/ USB socket
- Hoover the inside! I had dirt and grit flying around the footwells on track haha
- Remove more weight: seatbelt and gubbins are still in the car (previous owner thought they were an MOT requirement), and the rear bumper weights are still there too
- At some point, I might try to paint that cage black


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nice to have another build thread to follow!

That cable hanging in your console with the white plastic socket on it? wire one of these up to it and you have your power sorted:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Twi ... SwCGVX26qX

If you are staying with 17s, keep an eye out on the lightweight spec ones that came as OEM, If you have a look for the Kingfisher car on here he details some info on them, they are a good used buy on fleabay

The more I think about your issues on track the more I think you need an oil cooler before much else, it'll probably be one of your best mods based on how your car is setup already, if you can do it along with a forge baffled sump and millers nano drive you will be laughing.

Finally, check your service records to make sure you are running G13 coolant, mine had just water in it when I bought it! 

It wouldn't surprise me if heat soak is at the root of your issues.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks once again for the advice!

I've actually already ordered a similar USB socket from eBay after you mentioned it at Bedford.

I'm umming and aghing about the wheels now. The more I think about it, the more I'm thinking perhaps it's not the wisest spend - rather than buying new wheels so I can mount more expensive 255 tyres (if they even fit up front!), perhaps I go to the widest tyre I can get on the OEM rims (235) and use the saving on better coilovers.

I had a look at the oil cooler and then got baffled by the variety of sizes! What's a good size for adequate performance and ease of fitment?

Garage is going to check the coolant dilution for me - I reckon it's mostly water too!

In a bit of good news the garage got those sodding locking wheel nuts off last night!! 

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hurrah - the start of some progress!

As I understand it with the oil coolers 13 row plus is ideal - I went 19 row for headroom with a K&N High flow filter.

I agree about the spend on suspension over wheels, but good tyres will help a lot, if you don't rate the RSRs and they are due for a change try something different, there is a tyre grading thread on here


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

1781cc said:


> Hurrah - the start of some progress!
> 
> As I understand it with the oil coolers 13 row plus is ideal - I went 19 row for headroom with a K&N High flow filter.
> 
> I agree about the spend on suspension over wheels, but good tyres will help a lot, if you don't rate the RSRs and they are due for a change try something different, there is a tyre grading thread on here


Great thanks for that! Do you remember which width 19 row you went for? Looks like there are 115mm, 235mm and 310mm options at demon tweaks.

I'm pretty much decided now on coillies ahead of wheels. DPM have offered a good price on ST XA's, which are made by KW and essentially the same as the V2 (height and damping adjustable) but made with galvanised rather than stainless steel, and have the added benefit of camber adjustable strut top mounts.

I've read on here that GAZ Golds are well regarded, but I don't think I can deal with the 1 month lead time! Also, they're more expensive, and I like KWs (have V3s on the RS4 and they're excellent).

Picked up a liquid TT gauge on eBay for £100 too!

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Not heard of the SX TAs but I loved my KW V2s on the Audi Cabriolet I had, the build quality was amazing - I have a friend who races a corrado running V3s and speaks very highly of them.

What spring rates are the SX TAs?

EDIT: check that you are getting adjustable dampers (depending on the ones you buy) because I could only find these and there is quite a difference in £££:

http://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/produktf ... roupID=1-1

I have the 310mm option I believe, not near the car or paperwork but 99% sure thats it.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Sorry, it's ST-XTA, not ST XA! My fault. Definitely damping adjustable...These:

http://www.kwsuspensions.co.uk/st-coilo ... l?typ=3943

I've been quoted £775 delivered.

The spring rate (if I've understood KW's email correctly) is 70Nm or 400lbf/in up front - identical to the KW V2. Rears are progressive springs so they couldn't tell me the rate.

I have no idea how that compares to other coilovers! I could probably go a lot firmer with GAZ golds but then the typical 4hr roundtrip to any circuit will probably be bone breaking! I'd also have to pay more, and wait a month.

Car is back in the garage this morning for badger5 TIP install (and K&N filter), and they're going to have another bash at the haldex insert. They were worried about rounding off a couple of rusty looking Allen bolts if they dropped the subframe to remove the controller, so I gave them the go ahead to cut a small section out of the floor so they could access the insert from above instead. They got to it, but it's stuck in the controller solid!! Might have to go back to plan A and remove the controller entirely.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

400lb/in isn't too bad, i spec'd the Gaz Golds with 500lbs/in for reference. I've probably said it before, but the nice thing about Gaz is they are UK based, i've had a different pair of rear springs off them and it was as easy as a 5 minute phonecall to order and cost very little!

It might be worth that extra £125 to have a set that will offer more in the future (Higher rates) and the ease of future rebuilds and spring changes if required.

Also, i drove 2 hours to Blyton park on lincolnshire back roads on the coilovers set to the softest setting and it honestly wasn't that bad at all! I've been in less comfortable standard BMW's put it that way! :lol:


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks Nick

Perhaps their prices have gone up then, as they quoted me £984 + postage, so it's more like a £225 price difference...30% more expensive

Incidentally they told me they recommend 650 spring rates for track/motorsport on the TT.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Oh really! Yeah i paid £900 on the nose delivered about 18 months ago!

That's interesting too, when i sorted mine, we'd looked at all the off the shelf kits which sit between 200lbs/in to 400lbs/in (Unless you look at clubsports which are ££££) so figured we'd take it from there. It was only after that i found another chap with and orange track TT (Foster) who had also self calculated to the same front rear rates as i had, so this gave me a bit of confidence.

Prawn who runs an A3 has recently bough Golds with a set of 550 springs and a set of 650 springs, he runs slicks regularly and has a lot of aero assistance.

I don't think there is any generic right answer for a car, as there are so many factors that will influence the decision, so i'm amazed they've just recommended 650/lbs off the bat, as far as i know they don't work with anyone racing a TT directly so wonder where the figures come from!?

We have been talking about 600/lbs in the future however, the nice thing being we can order the springs and chuck them on without and hassle!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

NickG said:


> I don't think there is any generic right answer for a car, as there are so many factors that will influence the decision


This! its all down to your own circumstances, some swear by RSRS or R888, some think the car understeers too much, for others its just right, some people have loads of disposable and others do not, so its all down to what you like, what you want to spend and what your goals are, if you are doing 4 trackdays a year its not worth spending huge money on more expensive suspension. If you are going to race (like Nick) then thats a competitive edge thing.

Personally, I may not be the quickest, but I enjoy driving and learning, I may be at a disadvantage with my FKs at the moment, but I have fun - eventually they will get done, but I probably wont be spending huge ££ on it because that bumps up the cost per grin factor and they work for me at the moment (as you have seen Faisal)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks for the advice guys.

The way I see it is somewhat similar to how you describe Lee - it's for fun, rather than competition.

£775 is still a lot in the scheme of what I want to spend on this car, but I think it's a wise investment in terms of how enjoyable the car will be on track.

I placed my order earlier.

I managed to get myself confused on the different ST coils earlier.

The one I'm getting is the ST XA

ST X is height only adjustment (KW V1)
ST XA is height and damping (KW V2)
ST XTA adds the camber plates

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Have any of you chaps tried an aftermarket wireless TPMS kit in order to monitor tyre pressures and temps?

There seem to be some that utilise internal sensors on the valve, and cheaper ones that use a new valve cap. Either way you get a display in the car with temps and pressure for all 4 corners as you're lapping!










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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

FJ1000 said:


> Have any of you chaps tried an aftermarket wireless TPMS kit in order to monitor tyre pressures and temps?
> 
> There seem to be some that utilise internal sensors on the valve, and cheaper ones that use a new valve cap. Either way you get a display in the car with temps and pressure for all 4 corners as you're lapping!
> 
> ...


Wow this is brilliant. Such a small size too. You could easily mount this anywhere in the cabin!


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## Von Twinzig (Feb 10, 2014)

Why?

VT


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Von Twinzig said:


> Why?
> 
> VT


Ha - a fair question.

Why not!? I like gadgets, and like the idea of seeing the tyre pressures! I just picked up a cheap unused pair of Nankang NS2R's off eBay yesterday, and then ordered a matching pair and some new wheels (more info in my next post) so I'll get these fitted when I'm getting the tyres mounted.

Went on a bit of a shopping spree yesterday actually! Also ordered some poly strut top mounts for when the coils go on, and a few other little bits.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

*Wheels*

I'd been thinking about new wheels already, but when my mechanic made a comment that the current wheels weigh a tonne, I thought I'd look into it.

If I had to guess how much the OEM 17" 6 spoke alloys weigh, I'd have guessed about 10-11kg. WRONG! 13.8kg!?

So, I decided I'm looking for some lightweight wheels!!

First decision; what diameter, 17" or 18"? The main benefit of going to 18" would be that it gives more room for big brakes in future. The downside is additional weight and expense (not only the wheels, but tyres are 15% more expensive on the basis of 235 wide nankgang NS2R's). The most likely brake upgrade I'd do in future would be the 4 pot leon cupra R calipers, or the brembo GT kit. These both happen to fit under 17s. So, 17s it is!

In terms of width, I'd initially wanted to go 8.5J or more so I could try to squeeze 255 tyres on. However, it sounds as though fitment will be a pain at the front of the car, so I'll probably go to 235. Having been in Lee's car running 225s and better suspension than my TT, it seems that grip levels shouldn't be an issue. 235s will go onto a 7.5J rim.

So, on to wheel choice!

Requirements; lighter than stock, 17x7.5 or 17x8, strong enough to take some abuse, ET20 or higher (I have no problem using spacers if need be), don't look like absolute turd, cheap (this is meant to be a "cheap" track car for me and my mate afterall)! I diddn't want to spend more than about £600 on the rims.

So the usual suspects are team dynamics pro race 1.2 (very light, used by a lot of track cars, cheapish), OZ ultraleggera (won't find many rims lighter, but around £1k a set), rota grids (similar in price and weight to the TD 1.2s) and then a few BBS options (probably used due to price). There's an excel spreadsheet floating around a few forums that's quite helpful in comparing wheel weights for a given size. The other option I considered was taking the BBS CH-R's coming off the wife's GTi, and using these with wheel adapters.

I decided not to go for any of the above though, as I came across a couple of other options.

First off, a bit of a surprise, the Fox motorsport FX005 (hear me out) is lighter than the OZ ultras! And less than half the price. But, it's Fox racing, which I still associate with the Max Power era and Vauxhall Corsas with crappy bodykits- so I question the quality.

Then I stumbled across Autec Wizard. They're a German brand, and the wheels seem very good value! A set of 17x7.5 wheels is £460 on tyreleader, slightly cheaper on German sites, and they weigh 8.6kg (5kg lighter than OEM). I think they look pretty good to boot!

To compare the wheels I considered, I worked out the cost per Kg saved, in the table below. Those Fox's have still got me wondering, but I don't particularly want bent wheels after a couple of trackdays so I'll go with the German brand! (N.B. the price listed for the BBS CH-R represents the money I'd lose out on by not selling them, and paying for 5x112 to 5x100 adapters). The Autecs are load rated for vans and have TUV approval.



















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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Managed to get a couple of interior jobs done..

First off, the climate control unit had been loosely bunged into the radio slot for some reason rather than put in its correct place. So I relocated that and screwed it in.

Went round the car pulling out old clips and bolts that had been left in.

Removed the old seat belts.

Installed the liquid TT gauge - cool bit of kit!

Installed a dual USB port, connected to the old cigarette lighter wiring.

Tidied up lots of loose wiring with cable ties.

Coded out the ESP.










Feels much better inside now. Also, got to take it for a short spin last night, first time since the cookbots went in, and it feels a fair bit sharper to turn in now.

WaK map tomorrow!

Next trackday - Thurs eve at Donington

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good progress already! Will be good to hear of your experiences of the cookbots and handling. I keep looking at them but find other things higher on the list.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Trackday 2 at Donington in the wet.

Well that was interesting! Semi-slicks in the wet is like dancing on ice !

Since the last outing, changes are:

- Cookbots 
- TTRS ducts 
- WaK remap
- New lightweight wheels and 235/45 nankang Ns2r semi slicks, with wireless TPMS sensors
- ESP delete
- Rear counterweight, seatbelts and random clips/bolts removed 
- Haldex service and insert installed
- Liquid TT gauge

I had no issues with power loss or brake fade, but I wasn't able to push as hard as the last time out. There was a lot of water on track, and the semi-slicks really didn't like it!!

Power delivery seems a lot smoother since the WaK map. I did a power run on the liquid gauge and it indicates 265bhp, which I'm happy with. It should be a safer map though - WaK noted the old software just seemed to up boost and changed nothing else, which seemed to be leading to high exhaust temps.

The haldex is much better behaved now with the insert and I could really feel it helping me out of the corners in the wet (as much as the tyres would allow), without the ESP stepping in either. Much better.

Still a lot of fun despite the conditions, but looking forward to testing the car out in the dry! I managed a dainty pirouette going back up the hill after cramers- tried to catch a slide, over-corrected and did a full 360!!










Vid posted by a fellow RS246 forum member in his SQ5. You can just make me out through the spray!






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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

My spin at the end...!






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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

They're here!!!!










Unfortunately, still waiting on adjustable rear tie arms (forum classifieds purchase), powerflex strut top mounts (first set disappeared in the post) and camber plates (on their way from Poland).

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Have you bought silver project camber plates for the front?

If so, you don't need the powerflex top mounts too bud!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I have indeed - sounds like I messed up!!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Look at the positives, send them back, save some money!!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Look at the positives, send them back, save some money!!


Thanks for pointing out that I can't use both!! Had a bit of a blonde moment there...ordered the bushes a couple of weeks ago, then found out about the camber plates more recently and ordered those too. When the bushes order didn't show up, I just went out and ordered again without thinking about it.

Seller will take them back.

I owe you a drink Nick!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Ok, so car is booked in on Monday with camspec in Crawley for the following work - can't wait to get it back and out on track!

- Fit ST XA coilovers, project Silver camber plates, and adjustable rear tie arms

- Setup coilovers for track and do full 4 wheel alignment I'm thinking as close to -3.5 camber up front as they can get, and -1.25 Ish rear, toe as per OEM spec. Opinions?

- Fit 19 row mocal oil cooler kit with thermostatic plate

- Dump the existing oil and replace with 5w40 Fuchs Titan race (fully synthetic, ester base)

- Replace fuel filter (WaK mentioned my pump seemed to be operating close to full capacity - thought I'd try replacing the filter in case it's that - cheap enough and no harm doing it)

- Remove OEM steering wheel and fit momo boss and OMP WRC wheel

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

If you can get one quick, and have funds, get a baffled sump at the same time, well worth it for peace of mind

I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback on the coilies


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

1781cc said:


> If you can get one quick, and have funds, get a baffled sump at the same time, well worth it for peace of mind
> 
> I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback on the coilies


That's probably not a bad idea - I should've remembered that earlier!

Where did you source yours from?
Not sure I'll be able to sort it this time but may give it a go.

Is oil starvation a common issue on the TT? Or is it just as you say peace of mind?

Looking to do brands Indy track evening a week on tues, will test out the upgrades!

Picked up the steering wheel from the post office yesterday- feels soooo nice!










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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Trackday #3 - Brand Hatch Indy

Wet&#8230; again? Agh. Maybe I need to think about a second set of wheels with road tyres!

On the upside, I think driving on track in the wet is a better learning experience than in the dry. I think I learned more about the car and my driving (lack of..) ability in the last 2 wet trackdays than I would've in a dozen dry ones.

I can also see that the fixes and upgrades are paying dividends.

Suspension:

The ST XA coilovers feel so much better than the lowering springs and (probably knackered) OEM shocks. The previous setup was low, but soft and bouncy, and had a vagueness about it. The car feels much tighter now - the ride is firm but controlled and not crashy, and I can't perceive much body roll at all. It also dives less under braking. Combined with the cookbots and some other renewed bushes, it handles like a different car to when we bought it. The instructor commented that the car felt setup nicely.

The rear springs were set to their lowest setting, and fronts adjusted to match. I asked for the dampers to be set ¾ of the way to firmest, and I figured I might have a play from there - but I see no reason at the moment to make it any firmer. Besides, I'd have to get the rear shocks off the car to adjust them. The camber is -2.5 degrees up front, and -1.3 at the back. I would've liked more up front, but would need to go lower to achieve it as the camber plates are at their max negative position. I like the ride height where it is though, as I can still get over speed humps without scraping anything! My route from work to the track yesterday involved taking every speed hump in south London!

Engine:

The power loss issue that we had on trackday #1 seems to have been cured by the WaK remap. The previous map was causing really high exhaust temps, which may have lead to the ECU cutting power. We also changed the TIP, so a collapsing OEM TIP under boost could've been the problem. Either way - it hasn't re-occurred.

Grip:

The haldex is so much nicer with the powertrak insert! You can really feel it helping you out of corners in the wet where the RWD boys were struggling to get their power down. The ESP delete helps massively too - it was cutting in even in the dry out of corners, so I can imagine it being a real pain in the wet. On the downside, I don't think the nankang semi-slicks are the best thing in the wet!

Misc:

It's really handy having the LiquidTT gauge, and tyre temps in the car. The intake temps were getting to 50 degrees on track, which isn't ideal, coolant 104, but the biggest thing it highlighted was that the oil temps got up to 125ish pretty easily, at which point I'd have to cool off for a lap or come in all together. It was the thing that ended each run. The oil cooler didn't get fitted (although the car is now running an ester based 5w40 oil) as the garage weren't happy with the supplied hose fittings in the kit I bought. They want to take the car back in next week and then take the hoses and connectors to someone they know to have them securely fitted.

Brakes felt good throughout with no fade, perhaps the cooler temps and TTRS ducts are helping. Most of all though, the fade was experienced at Bedford where there are a couple of hard braking zones from 120mph-ish, which is always going to be hard on the brakes.

Not to forget... the new steering wheel is ace, and all the rattles are gone after I pulled the random clips and bolts that'd been left in the car.

I really want to paint the red roll cage and swap the seats. I shouldn't though.




























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## chisharpe (May 27, 2017)

Nice update. Need more aggressive striping though :twisted:


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Loads more to come out and he knows it! Removing rattles is a good start tho


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I'm not as dedicated to the cause as some! I quite like having climate control!

And the glovebox is handy!

I might look into a lightweight battery if/when it packs in, and I need to get rid of the big support brackets near the base of the seats, otherwise not planning much more in the way of weight saving.

Main thing is to get on track more and enjoy it!










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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

It's always a balance between driving more and working more on the car, as far as I know, you're the only one of the 5 of us with dedicated MK1 track cars actively driving on circuit!

I'm aiming for the ego day on the 7th of July but depends on my stage 2 Wak map, otherwise it'll be 2nd of October at silverstone.

Maybe driving is a better option that fiddling!


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

FJ1000 said:


> My spin at the end...!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Enjoyed your vid; thanks for posting it.

Only your underpants know how scared you really were!

Regards,

Specsman 8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > My spin at the end...!
> ...


Well that's just it! This is the beauty of running a track only car, as opposed to taking my pride and joy (a B7 RS4) or even the wife's car (mk5 golf gti) on track...my pants stay unscathed as I'm spinning on track!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Vid of the brands trackday. Was trying to keep up with the C63 at the end - makes a glorious noise that thing!






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## Takahashi (Oct 30, 2016)

reagarding removing the aircon - I did that on my MX5 and was amazed at the amount of weight and crap that came out with it (and that was a 1990 car) i also removed electric windows and put a manual steering rack on when i swapped to 14" enkie lightweight rims on. Massive difference! its a track car. BIN EVERYTHING!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

7kg for heating system assembly
1kg for heater matrix and associated fluids
aircon rad and pipes etc is about 3kg
each door mechanism side is about 2.5kg with wiring
heating control unit is about 500g

thats about 16.5kg saving there alone

Throw in a smaller battery and lose the tray for it and you could be saving 20kg overall.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Actually just added some weight...I now have an oil cooler!!



















19 row mocal cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate. The car took about an extra litre of oil - all tested and don't seem to be any leaks.

Unfortunately there is a several week wait for the Forge baffled sump at the moment, so think I'll put that off till the next oil change.

Hoping the next trackday is in the dry and I get to properly test all the upgrades.

In case not though, I'm considering a second set of wheels (cheap used set) with some part worn continental sportcontact 5 tyres, for wet track sessions. I was impressed with their wet weather performance on my RS4, and they score highly in the wet tests in tyre reviews.

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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Regarding weight saving....

Would a glass-fibre tailgate be a bit o.t.t? The original is heavy! Or just remove all the bracing etc. out of the original leaving the skin. Clip it down with those rubber things we used on the old mini bonnets!

The glass must weigh a ton!

If weight is the enemy of speed, you could do a lot with an angle grinder and a drill/tank cutter! I would imagine it could get quite addictive, perforating a car. :lol:

Watching a Car DIY SOS, or whatever it's called, the other evening, they were restoring an old Stirling Moss MG; that had had the floorpans hacked out and replaced with aluminium! What possible difference would that make with a one litre sewing machine engine??! :?

I love reading your musings, from the comfort of my rocking chair, obviously.

Please keep them coming.

Specsman 8)


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

If I recall the boot is about 15kg of which 7kg is glass, so yes there's good savings to be had!

I'd like to swap the glass for Lexan and then skin the boot like you say, hoping to save 8-9kg there!


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Your'e going to have to tie them down when not in use; a good gust will blow them away!
8)


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

There are some good Lexan kits out there at the moment, I've been looking into this and the rear especially its easy to replace, bond and bolt for secure fitting.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

If I was going to take drastic action on weight (which I'm not at the moment) I'd be looking at the front end first, for the sake of weight distribution.

I wonder if anyone does a lightweight bonnet?

I'm starting training with a new personal trainer tomorrow though...hopefully that'll help with the weight 

I find myself trawling the web for cheap wheels and Brembo 4 pots from a Cupra R. The cookbot 300mm rear disc upgrade looks like good value too.

I wasn't meant to be spending money on this thing!!! Aargh!!! 

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

A snapshot of the inside of my head:



















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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

So I picked up that second set of wheels today...

17x7.5 Rota Torque. I see different weights mentioned online for these, but in the 8.2kg-8.6kg range so light either way! £330 for the set - pleased with that!

The tyres will be coming off and replaced with a set of 4 continental sportcontact 5 tyres I picked up from eBay. All part worn, 5-6mm tread, £150 for the lot delivered.

Don't mind if it rains at the trackday now!










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## Gonzalo1495 (Oct 13, 2014)

nice, glad to see another car running Rota's. You really can't beat the value or performance of the brand for the price. That's going to be a good 9lbs or so per corner that you just shedded!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Nice, love my Rota's, 2 years now and a huge off into the gravel at 100mph+ and they are still round and true.

Amazing wheels


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Well the Met office got that wrong! Good thing I paid more attention to accuweather and google weather and fitted the "wets" for the track afternoon/evening yesterday! It was soaking wet, with lots of spray and standing water by the evening. But - it was epic fun!!! I think Snetterton is my favourite track I've done.

The car has never felt so good. The instructor was very surprised how good it was (he previously had a stock TT himself) and was genuinely interested in all the mods. He commented that it was the most planted car he'd been in all day, and was impressed how good it felt - particularly in the amount of mechanical grip in the wet.

Much of that was down to the tyres. The rest of you guys on semi-slicks for track, I'd say seriously consider some conti sportcontact 5s for wet weather. You can't believe how good they are. We were much quicker through the corners compared to a lot of much more expensive stuff. My best scalp of the day was a 996 Turbo . My mate, who was very nervous (first wet trackday for him) was soon going pretty quick and passing others too - again, including other 4 wheel drive cars (scooby).

I knew about the tyres already from experience in the wet in my RS, as well as tyre tests.






The oil cooler is ace. The thermostat operates around 75deg, opening up oil flow to the cooler. On road, this means temps get to 75-78 and no higher. On track, the highest we saw all day was 106 after a particularly long run - back to 95 after a cool down lap. Usual peak was around 100. I was seeing 115-120 before it was fitted. It meant that we could spend much more time out on track. It never felt like the car needed to come in, so we could stay out as long as we like and then do a fairly quick swapover.

It's all coming together nicely  Really enjoyable day out - even the drive home was fun (had some nice roads before hitting the A1(M), great sunset, and was chasing a C7 RS6 for part of the drive).

Still lots to learn, and the car is a lot more capable than we are as drivers!

Next up, brakes I think. They're good, but could be better. I'm thinking cookbot S4 300mm disc conversion for the rear, and Cupra 4 pot Brembos with 323mm discs up front. Possibly some aero at some point too



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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Unfortunately I didn't get most of the day on video - left my 64GB mini-SD at home and the only one I had with me got full after 25min of footage. Still got a bit of footage though






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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good to hear progress is going well and your confidence is growing in the car, you've made good progress in a short amount of time with it.

What pads are you running on the car at the moment? I've not felt the need for bigger brakes yet and thats with DS3000s, I am usually a lot later on the brakes then a most on track with just those.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks mate - progress has been good mainly due to helpful advice from you and others. God bless the interweb.

Pads are carbotech, XP10's I believe. The brakes don't feel bad - I'm just comparing to the stopping power of the other 2 cars at home that have huge 6/8 pot brembo calipers!

I should just leave it alone really, it doesn't *need* much more really. The car is for fun, I'm not competing. But then, it's a bit of an addiction really; I enjoy researching upgrades, then testing them out on track.

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

is it "feel" or effectiveness that seems off compared to the other cars? I only ask because if you test the braking distances on the same stretch a few times I suspect you'll find that the initial force on the brembos probably feel stronger but I bet in reality the stopping distance on the TT will be far less.

My S8 has mahoosive brakes (not ceramics but brembos) and they bite hard but stopping distances are greater than the TT, probably because of inertia from a 2ton+ car anyway. And I wouldn't want to make multiple stops like that as I am sure it wouldn't hold up more than about 7-8 times before fade.

VT has upgraded brakes but Nick G, Me and notably MadMax don't.

Do you have the hoses, high boil fluid and all that done? when was the last bleed?


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## CALLAKN (Feb 27, 2017)

Hey Faisal, do you have any pictures of the rota's on your car?!

i also own a TT which I'm using for track, and wanted to know if the 17's made much difference to the 18s? i have 18's at the moment with good year eagle F1's on (great in the wet) but needing to invest in some track tyres for the dry...

Cheers


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I'd have to say it's the feel. I think the grooved discs seem to give a bit of a mild judder on really hard braking which doesn't help. You may well be right on effectiveness.

Fluid is decent (motul RBF660 from memory)

I thought Max has his own wilwood setup that he's selling?

CALLAKN - just checked my phone and I don't seem to have any pics of the TT on rotas, sorry!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Vid from Audi Driver International.

Was meant to be going in the rs4 but it wasn't out of the bodyshop. Took the TT but no time to get the semi slicks on






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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

3:31 - you can hear me talking to myself as I realised it was a TT-RS in front! Hence the fist pump later..!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> Vid from Audi Driver International.
> 
> Was meant to be going in the rs4 but it wasn't out of the bodyshop. Took the TT but no time to get the semi slicks on
> 
> ...


Nice video buddy! I was going to ask about tyres then just saw the comment about the semi's... it shows on the video, badly, very little grip on the road tyre and can see you understeering into the abyss at relatively low speeds to the tune of a thousand screaming cats! :lol:

Get them Nankangs on and you are going to find it night and day, you would have been past the TTRS in one lap as you were only slower on the straights... I've been there too!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Cheers Nick

It was quite an impressive amount of squeeling wasn't it!?

It's frustrating- I've had the semi slicks for months now and not had a dry trackday on them. They were all wet, so I got another set of wheels and put the conti SC5's on them (which are great in the wet), but they were still on the car and I just didn't have time to swap them over. It was all a bit last minute- I didn't know for sure that I'd be going in the TT till the day before.

Hopefully I'll get a dry trackday next time!

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

It was pretty epic squealing! :lol:

You'll love the Nankangs in comparison, they're bloody good tyres and to be honest, i've run them in the wet (If it was a top gear celebrity it would have been described as Very Very Wet!!) and had a brilliant brilliant time! They're surprisingly capable, for the track in the wet i'd say they're fine, provided you are sensible if you notice any massive areas of standing water.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Blimey that is wet!!!

I did a couple of wet trackdays at donny and Brands on the nankangs, and then the next wet one at Snetterton on the contis - the contis are so good in the wet!

I've got quite a few holidays saved up, some of which I'll have to use before end of the year..so hopefully I can swing a dry trackday at some point soon!

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

Come to Silversstone on monday! its showing as dry at the moment...


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I've been on a bit of a shopping spree...























































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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Not pictured/still waiting for...

- Carbotech XP10 pads for the new front brakes
- cookbot S4 (300mm) rear brake adapters
- 300mm c-hooked rear discs

Also the IC doesn't come with the brackets - probably not too difficult to knock up but will see if Forge can supply to make it a bit easier.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Well i think you're going to stop!! 

Looks like some good work ahead of you, should be a different animal next time out!


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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

that forge is 50% mountable as it is, cable tie the rest lol

seriously though, thats a good little spree, where from and what brand is the engine mount?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

1781cc said:


> that forge is 50% mountable as it is, cable tie the rest lol
> 
> seriously though, thats a good little spree, where from and what brand is the engine mount?


It's a THS mount, off the forum classifieds. I've never heard of them but seem to get decent reviews and it was cheap, so...sod it.

I thought I did well with the Forge, £150!

Plus a couple of pence for the cable ties 

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Well i think you're going to stop!!
> 
> Looks like some good work ahead of you, should be a different animal next time out!


I bloody well hope so!!!

This "cheap" project has got quite expensive - but it's worth it if the upgrades make a difference on track

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

And the ****box is finally back home!





































It wasn't smooth sailing...
- The front crash bar was bent and wouldn't go back on over the forge. Thought about binning it, but prefer to keep it. Ordered a replacement- wrong type - doh! Ordered another - arrived and also bent! So the garage ended up "fettling" it (grinder and a big f*** off hammer).

- The rear brake adapter kit took near on a month to arrive - trouble getting the spigot rings made up (they sit inside the S4 discs to centre them on the TT hub). When they arrived,the carriers needed grinding to get the kit on

- Usual difficulties getting the full milly on these cars

Just need some milder weather- want to get it out on track!

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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Looking good!


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## Neil (May 7, 2002)

FJ1000 said:


> I'm a VW/Audi nut. My "daily" is a B7 RS4 avant which is my pride and joy, and I got my wife a mk5 golf GTi DSG.


Good choice! We're very similar... B8 S4 Avant, TT, and mk5 Golf GTi (albeit manual not DSG).



FJ1000 said:


>


BBS wheels work well - which ones are they? (CH?)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Cheers!

Those are BBS CH-R's in the satin anthracite finish. I loved those wheels- but I had to swap them after fitting new brakes. Went with some Neuspeed RSe11's that have much better caliper clearance. As the car is my wife's daily, they are absolutely mullered now 










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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

First trackday of 2018 for me over the weekend - Donington in the wet (again!)

The TT was great - and had a few comments from people on how planted it was given the conditions.

New brake setup felt strong with no fade (although a dry trackday will be a much better test). It has to be said though - it's an incremental improvement to the previous setup rather than a night and day change. Previously the car had OEM calipers, grooves discs, XP10 front pads.

Last time I was at Donington it was also in the wet, but I was on semi-slicks (NS2R) and felt like I was auditioning for dancing on ice! This time on my wet set of wheels/Tyres, Continental sc5's, was a completely different experience. Loads more traction - very confidence inspiring. I even managed to stay facing the right way all day this time 

I went for the Continentals because of prior experience of them on my RS4, and because they get great reviews on wet performance. However - I was chasing a mate in his track clio on uniroyal rainsports and it had so much grip everywhere! I might have to buy a those set now

Vid to follow




























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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)









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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)
> ...


Nice little edit! Hilarious how much everyone else was struggling!! QUATTRO FTW!!


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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

FJ1000 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)
> ...


Very smooth. The wet gives me the willy's :?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

longodds said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > NickG said:
> ...


Thanks!

To be honest - my first wet trackday was nerve-wracking, but now I have some decent wet weather tyres, ESP deleted, and the powertrak insert - I think I actually prefer wet trackdays. It gives the TT the opportunity to shine because of the superior traction.

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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

Just curious, what is the benefit of the esp delete? Not somthing i would really bother woth just nosey.


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Gixxer123 said:


> Just curious, what is the benefit of the esp delete? Not somthing i would really bother woth just nosey.


I am no expert; but my car is pre ESP and was not retro fitted with it.

The ESP on my Golf cuts in long before the grip limit; if the TT system is as bad; a good driver would rather be without it!

If you have the "management" cutting power and braking odd wheels for you, it's all very safe, but it takes all the fun out of it.

Anyone driving on UK roads outside of the capability of the original TT's setup, deserved to be driving backwards at 100+, in a ball of flame anyway!

8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

As Specsman has said really

Even with it "off" it was cutting in when trying to get the power down out of corners - physically restraining you from doing so! Very frustrating

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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

FJ1000 said:


> As Specsman has said really
> 
> Even with it "off" it was cutting in when trying to get the power down out of corners - physically restraining you from doing so! Very frustrating
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You cant turn the esp off with the button, it just allows for a bit more action. If you do want it completely off there is a guide on here how to turn it off completely with VCDS


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## Gixxer123 (Oct 27, 2011)

Thanks for explaining the esp delete, that sounds like a plan for a track car, would not bother on my v6 as Mrs drives it and would likley do somthing silly. :x


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > As Specsman has said really
> ...


Indeed - that was the point I was making

I coded mine out using the guide - absolute must for a track car, but I probably wouldn't bother otherwise.

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## longodds (May 8, 2014)

Beunhaas said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > As Specsman has said really
> ...


So the ESP on/off button isn't an on/off button but an on/less-on button? :lol:

Why can't manufacturers give us what we want and expect rather than what they think we need? Just musing


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Very impressive performance, Great video, Are you sure you hadn't fitted some blue flashing lights on the front of the car as they were jumping out of the way quick enough  . 
Was there anything quicker on the track than you that day ? Donnington is on my list of tracks to try as it's only about 40 miles from me.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Very impressive performance, Great video, Are you sure you hadn't fitted some blue flashing lights on the front of the car as they were jumping out of the way quick enough  .
> Was there anything quicker on the track than you that day ? Donnington is on my list of tracks to try as it's only about 40 miles from me.




There were a couple of quicker cars, yes. One was a C63 which I thought would struggle in the conditions but didn't seem to have much problem making use of the power. The other was a mate's clio 172! It had astonishing grip on its uniroyal rainsport Tyres, but more significant than that was the skill of the driver - he's been doing trackdays for 20 odd years and donington is his local.

By complete fluke, I didn't get passed by either car - but couldn't quite keep pace with them when I was chasing.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

True, that lump of fleshy stuff behind the wheel does normally make the biggest difference! I was at Rockingham Saturday and it was red flags galore in the morning, that track is ridiculously slippery when wet. In the drivers briefing the surface was described as "like Eels coated in olive oil" :lol:

There was a lovely race prepped Aston there, it was lovely, until it hit the wall. Then they were still waiting at lunch for the new parts to arrive. Apparently the race support truck didn't have the one they needed :roll:


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

FJ1000 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)
> ...


What a great video!

Superior grip there from the Quattro, in those nasty conditions. I especially liked the sideways BMW; you could almost smell the fear. ... .... I think it was fear!

How many bragged to their mates later in the pub, that they were shown the way home by the hairdressers car!

Well done.

8)


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

FJ1000 said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > Epic! Look forward to the video!   8)
> ...


What a great video!

Superior grip there from the Quattro, in those nasty conditions. I especially liked the sideways BMW; you could almost smell the fear. ... .... I think it was fear!

How many bragged to their mates later in the pub, that they were shown the way home by the hairdressers car!

Well done.

8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks!

Just to make the point about it being a hairdressers car, I added some custom made stickers ...












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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Thats hilarious, I like your sense of humor.Always thought it was more the roadster that was the hairdressers car TBH .
No offence to Roadster owners of course, But a few people have made remarks about driving a hairdressers car and I always reply that's the soft top version. 
I thought that guy in the white BMW was going to lose it, I am sure he must have spun a few times as he was having problems accelerating in a straight line. Possibly got worn track day semi slicks on which of course wouldn't have helped.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I figure it's all well and good calling it a hairdressers car - unless I pass you on track, and then I'm (quietly) rubbing your nose in it !

Yeah that BMW took quite a significant scenic detour at one point. Was quite funny watching him...he found himself about 20ft from the track and looked like he couldn't go forward (slight hill) - then when I came round a lap later he was reversing back slowly on the grass (not getting any closer to the track). One lap further on a Marshall had appeared- probably asking what the f he was up to. And then the session got red flagged as he was eventually dragged out by the recovery truck. There was quite a lot of laughter from his mates when he arrived back in the pits!

Busy day for that recovery truck - there must have been 8-10 stoppages. Mostly BMW related 

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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

They are of course the ultimate driving machine, as long as it's not raining or snowing.


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## hoody (Jul 9, 2011)

Those stickers :lol:


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I gave my nephew a go today at Brands...

"Don't worry I know the track - I've done it on the PS4"














































He lost the back end just after paddock, going down the hill, and next thing I know we're flying over the kerb backwards into the gravel!

No harm done really - just ended up with 2 Flat tyres and a crap load of gravel falling out of the car. It did mean we had to put the semi slicks back on - in the rain.

Unfortunately, my mates clio went off at the same point, but he was clearly much more committed as it actually rolled. Luckily he wasn't hurt despite not having a cage - but the harness and buckets kept him in place.










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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Ohhhh datum!! :lol:

That corner is a bugger, I've seen no end of cars roll there. Glad you ended up right way up and ok, shame about your mate, hope the cars salvageable? (I read about a clip that rolled at Rockingham and was back out after lunch so they must be hardy little things!

Hope you got it on the GoPro too!!


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

"Don't worry I know the track - I've done it on the PS4" LOL
Bet every time he ever went in the gravel on a PS4 he drove out and continued with no issues. It's well buried in the gravel. Some of the BTCC cars manage to go in there and get out. I suppose with 2 flat tyres you had no chance.
Have those Renaults got plastic wings as standard ? No wonder they are so light.


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

That's up there with... "Here, Hold my beer!" :lol:


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Ohhhh datum!! :lol:
> 
> That corner is a bugger, I've seen no end of cars roll there. Glad you ended up right way up and ok, shame about your mate, hope the cars salvageable? (I read about a clip that rolled at Rockingham and was back out after lunch so they must be hardy little things!
> 
> Hope you got it on the GoPro too!!


Yeah - he's already sourcing parts to fix it back up. He's pretty handy so I'm sure he'll have it back on track soon!





































In other news - the clutch on the TT seems to be slipping. I'll do some research on here, but if anyone has any pointers on a good upgrade to the OEM clutch - would be much appreciated.

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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Glad your mate was OK, No weight in a clio they are almost on two wheels sometimes when cornering so probably not that difficult to roll. 
I think your car still has a standard turbo doesn't it ? If so I would stop with a standard clutch. Handles 300Lb/ft 300bhp with no issues. They only start to slip when they have 100K plus on them.
If you are thinking of trading up to more torque/ bigger turbo then now is a good time to fit an uprated clutch.
Your car appear to have the same Safety devices roll cage mine has, looking at the pictures where do your rear belts mount ?.
They seem to be going down to the OE belt points, better off mounting them on the cage bars as the belt angle is better.
That's what the two horizontal bars are for on the rear cage. You can then lose the rear brackets under the seat and prune a bit more weight off.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

@desertstorm

Yes indeed - still on the standard Turbo, but I'd like to go down the Badger5 hybrid route in future, so as you say might be a good time to fit an uprated clutch and SMF. I'm thinking a Sachs performance clutch.

It is a safety devices cage and I hadn't really thought anything about the harness anchor points until others pointed out it's a problem (cage and harnesses were already in the car when I bought it). I'll take your advice and move them to the horizontal bars - thanks for the tip!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

PS4-boy's spin has made it to the Internet 






3:08

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> PS4-boy's spin has made it to the Internet
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 :lol:

Foot in coming out on exit, then quickly released and too much counter steer?

It didn't half spit him off the track!


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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

NickG said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > PS4-boy's spin has made it to the Internet
> ...


I feel for PS4 boy; it seemed like a nice smooth drive until he slid off. Not his car also, bet he feels bad.

That gravel makes a mess doesn't it!

8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> FJ1000 said:
> 
> 
> > PS4-boy's spin has made it to the Internet
> ...


Yep pretty much that. As soon as you get to the bottom of the hill and the suspension compresses you have all that grip all of a sudden, and he had a lot of opposite lock on towards the gravel!

Speaking to my mate with the clio, who has seen the vid, his off was almost exactly the same! Slide - applied too much lock (although he doesn't think he lifted), then span the opposite direction when the car suddenly gained traction -> sideways into the kitty litter.

Both cars would've been better off if it was a tarmac run off, although the TT got off lightly.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> > FJ1000 said:
> ...


He was doing ok until then!

My way to let him know I'm not too worried about the tyres was to take the mick constantly (and also remind him I've done the same before, but no gravel fortunately).

Back to the PS4. I hope it hasn't put him off trying again in future!

Not in the TT though...

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## poghead (Apr 19, 2013)

Out of interest how have the Autec Wizard wheels fared? Now they're available at tweeks I'm considering a set.

Pog

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

poghead said:


> Out of interest how have the Autec Wizard wheels fared? Now they're available at tweeks I'm considering a set.
> 
> Pog
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm actually considering a second set (for the road/wet Tyres), so that's useful to know! I wonder how the price compares to tyreleader.

My only complaint is that the spigots that come with the Wheels are a bugger! They get stuck on my spacers and have to be prised off before I can swap wheels. I'm going to get some others, possibly Aluminium. Otherwise I'm happy with them.

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## 1781cc (Jan 25, 2015)

I'm running Alu spigots, much better and rock solid, they dont deform or crack with load!


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## poghead (Apr 19, 2013)

I had a look online and made a few calls, tyreleader seem to be the best price for them still at £462 for a set in gunmetal. Tweeks wouldn't entertain matching them on price which is a shame, the best they could offer was 10% off but still came in at £600. Rim style wanted £642 with shipping. I guess tyreleader it is!

Pog

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Back at its second home.

Had a short but fun evening track session at Brands Indy (not my favourite track 1 but closest) and the EML came on. A quick code read and google search later - turns out it's a knock sensor. I thought I changed that!? Well, there are apparently two of them, and I suspect the garage (not Camspec) actually changed the wrong one!

So that's getting fixed, baffled sump going on, fresh Fuchs Titan Race, disconnecting the front ARB, and I'm getting the coilovers adjusted 10mm lower all round.

Snetterton is the next one booked in, 2nd July - although my wife bought me a MSV trackday voucher (unbelievable - was expecting socks for my bday) so need to get that booked in too!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Completely forgot to add that it had a new clutch a few weeks ago too!

The OEM clutch had begun to slip and was quite smelly after 15-20m on track, so I decided to swap it out for a performance clutch and single mass flywheel. I was in luck and a lightly used clutchmasters FX400 with Sachs SMF popped up on eBay. This clutch is a ceramic 6-puck design, and should be able to handle more torque than the OEM clutch.

The car is a bit harder to drive on the road, but it feels much better on track now! Pulling away in 1st is quite jerky, but not really noticeable when on the move.



















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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Definitely a requirement for serious track abuse! :twisted:


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

NickG said:


> Definitely a requirement for serious track abuse! :twisted:




In a sleep deprived state at silly o'clock in the morning a few nights ago I seem to have ordered mk2 golf ball joints to add to the list!

Camspec didn't bat an eyelid at my last minute purchase- going on tomorrow and 4 Wheel alignment. Hoping to get the camber up from current -2.3 closer to -3.5

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

That is not a typo in the post above.

I did indeed order mk2 golf ball joints.

They didn't fit.

I can't for the life of me figure out where I got it in my head that I needed ball joints from a mk2 golf!?

Mk2 TT ball joints on order by the garage.

What a muppet.

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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> That is not a typo in the post above.
> 
> I did indeed order mk2 golf ball joints.
> 
> ...


 :lol: OOOOOPS!!


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I read the post and thought you had made a typeo or knew something I didn't. Fortunately not a major issue. Glad to here the Autec Wizards are working out OK I have ordered a set for my car. Going to put my 245/35/18 Michelin Pilot Supersports on the 8 x 18 Autecs and use them as daily driver / wet tyres. And put the Yokaham AO48's on the 8.5 x18 wheels I have on the car already.
Couldn't find any other seller that could get near to the Tyreleader price for the Autec Wizards. If I could have got some Team Dynamic 1.2's in silver for the same price I would have got them but they are around £100 more.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Yeah - I'm an idiot haha. I blame Ramadan sleep deprivation.

With the autecs, I'd recommend buying some aluminium spigot rings. The plastic ones are a bit of a bugger! They get stuck on my spacers and need prising off with a flat headed screwdriver every time I swap to my wets - really annoying!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

-4.1 camber now (was -2.5 Ish)










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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

That's a good deal of camber. 4 degrees and 12 minutes is actually 4.2 degrees .
I have reduced the camber a little on my car, was running around 3.5 degrees and I have reduced it to just over 3 degrees as I found the car very nervous on rough roads, the front end was all over the place . On a track it wouldn't be so bad though.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Camber!!










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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Very nice!!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Need some cooling advice gents.

Hot day at Snetterton yesterday (28-30 Celsius) and the TT really struggled with temps.

1. Coolant dash warning came on 3 times during the day, and I saw 120-132 temps

2. Oil temps got to 120+ very quickly. The cooler seems much less efficient since being moved aside to make way for my forge IC

3. EGT got over 900 and the car lost power several times in the afternoon before I packed it in. I have an error code for the EGT sensor - but not sure if the sensor is actually faulty. I changed the fuel pump to a DW65 recently and didn't have the map tweaked - I wonder if I need to do tweak the map to try and keep EGT down?

To solve 1 I'm thinking an aluminium radiator, such as the one dark side sell, and fresh coolant (looks like mostly water!) Perhaps some ventilation holes in the bumper too.

To solve 2 - perhaps some ducting to get better airflow to the oil cooler (mocal cooler, think it was 18 row)

As a separate minor issue - It seems the oil was slightly over filled after my baffled sump went on, so the pressure forced some oil vapour out of a breather pipe - so there was a bit of a mess under the bonnet. Not much of it though. Cleaned it up and it was really minimal after the first occurrence.

Any tips/advice much appreciated!

On a more positive note - the turn in is so much better with the increased camber and ARB disconnected! Only had understeer once when I barrelled into a hairpin too fast.










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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> Need some cooling advice gents.
> 
> Hot day at Snetterton yesterday (28-30 Celsius) and the TT really struggled with temps.
> 
> ...


Good work getting out there in this heat, perfect time to find the cooling system's weaknesses! 8)

A couple of other minor things that should help;

1) Lower temp stat, drilled out to allow a bit more flow (Even when fully open the thermostat is quite restrictive, a few additional holes in the outer collar will give it that bit extra flow that should help!)










2) Assuming you drive to track, you could put the plate on Velcro, then behind that hole-saw the bumper to allow more flow to the radiator, so you can just pull the plate when you get to track to reveal the holes.










If you're changing the rad, another option is the Direnza option, which is slightly less, same size core though.


*Direnza*
https://www.direnza.co.uk/audi-a3-s...via-vw-golf-bora-1-8t-aluminium-radiator.html

*Darkside*
https://www.darksidedevelopments.co...diator-for-vw-golf-mk4-platform-vehicles.html

Happy to hear yet another voucher for the Front ARB Removal, it really does help with turn in and understeer.


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Go for a waterless cooling system


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Wow those are some serious coolant temperatures. When I was at Rockingham I saw the coolant temps on mine rise to a massive 102 degrees and oil temps hit 109 degrees. It was 24-25 degrees so not as hot as your day but those temps are really hot. I changed the rad in mine to the V6 item which is also fitted to the 225 in hot countries.
34mm core as opposed to the painfully thin 25mm core on the standard 225 rad. And about 1/3 the price of the Direnza item.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Radi ... 2303633337?
straight swap and it seems to be keeping the engine cooler than the old one.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p8999061

I am 95% sure the Direnza item and the Darkside are the same radiator. 
You shouldn't need a mapping change for a new pump . if anything the pressure will be higher making the mixture richer which will reduce EGT's.
The EGT sensor is probably intermittent, they suffer with dry joints internally. Mine did, fortunately I could take the top off and resolder the joints. Never missed a beat since. If you are seeing just over 1100 degrees that's what it reports when the sensor is open circuit. The ECU will protect the engine and reduces power available.
Do you run with the engine under tray on?. I think you will find better cooling with it removed.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

HOGG said:



> Go for a waterless cooling system


If your car is overheating the last thing you want to do is fit a waterless cooling system. The specific heat capacity for Evans coolant is about 60% that of normal a normal G12 coolant /water mix. Thus you need about 50% larger coolant flow and radiators to achieve the same kind of cooling. Yes the coolant won't boil, but your engine temps will be through the roof along with the oil temps.
Nobody uses it in a racing car. quick Google there are loads of similar threads.
http://www.3si.org/forum/f11/dumping-ev ... up-206021/


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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

desertstorm said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> > Go for a waterless cooling system
> ...


My statement meant water wetter style. Not just no water at all


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

OK ,but I suspect 95% of people would take waterless cooling as no water at all. Water wetters can help but there effect is not massive and it's something else you have to buy to run in the engine, some of these products can react with certain coolants and leave residues.
The best cooling performance comes with running straight water, That's not really practical and would result in a lot of corrosion in the system.
I run the coolant in my car 33/66 coolant to water ratio. This is enough coolant to get the anti corrosion benefits but also maintains a good amount of water to keep the specific heat capacity high.
SHC for 33/66 mix compared to straight water is about 0.92 for 50/50 mix around 0.86 so using a little less coolant and more water will give you about 6% better cooling.

If you need more cooling then a water wetter product with straight water would be the best but you really need to keep on top of this to make sure there is no corrosion in the system.

https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629

Time to remove the front ARB by the sounds of it, lose some weight. I cut mine off the car with an angle grinder, otherwise you need to drop the sub frame to remove it.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

Glad to see more more people are trying and adopting my no-front-ARB suspension tuning approach. Once tried, it's really a no-brainer, the car 100% better with most of the understeering inclination gone.

The cooling issues are normal. I tell people all the time, if you're not overheating a TT at the track, you're not pushing it nearly hard enough (same goes for street and fast road pads). As I mentioned on FB, venting the bonnet is your best friend. I believe you already have an oil cooler, so a 82c thermostat with a hole or two drilled on the outer skirt (another mod of mine), and deleting some of the unnecessary coolant bypass is what you have left (beside a larger capacity radiator).

PS: I have also deleted one of the fans on my car which helps on track since you're always moving, but that wouldn't be ideal for a car that sees normal stop and go traffic.


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

HOGG said:


> Go for a waterless cooling system


Really!!!


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

desertstorm said:


> Time to remove the front ARB by the sounds of it, lose some weight. I cut mine off the car with an angle grinder, otherwise you need to drop the sub frame to remove it.


Nooooo, you couldn't possibly do this, the car was designed to have one, it will fall off the road without it! :wink:


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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

Madmax199 said:


> Glad to see more more people are trying and adopting my no-front-ARB suspension tuning approach. Once tried, it's really a no-brainer, the car 100% better with most of the understeering inclination gone.


Yep, my mate told me to do this a number of years ago when i mocked him for reducing the size of his front ARB on his Mini project... in the end, he was right!... He doesn't let me forget it [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## Madmax199 (Jun 14, 2015)

NickG said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> > Glad to see more more people are trying and adopting my no-front-ARB suspension tuning approach. Once tried, it's really a no-brainer, the car 100% better with most of the understeering inclination gone.
> ...


Reducing the rate of the front bar is what started it all for me too. Circa 2010, I elongated the ends of the factory bar to effectively reduce its rate (I welded elongating tabs to increase the leverage applied and reduce the bar's rate). The effect was so positive and drastic (overnight) that I knew from that point that deleting the bar was ultimately the goal and solution. Funny thing is, many are still clinging to their stiffer "upgraded" bars for track use.

PS: No sway bar at all is the way of the future. I don't have a rear bar anymore and it's so much better I'm kicking myself for not doing this earlier.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks for the advice all - on Facebook too.

I'll get the 82 degree 'stat and drill

Vent for front third of bonnet (anyone know where to get one!?)

Holes in the bumper and crash bar (I better not crash!)

And I'll speak to my garage about the oil cooler - whether they can move it back to a central location over the FMIC (it's currently under the passenger side headlight). If not, get better airflow to it. I'll also ask them to chop the front ARB out, and find out how much they'd charge for a radiator swap. If it's easy enough, might go for the Direnza alloy unit.

The EGT issue still concerns me though. What else can I do about that? WMI? Anything simpler?

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Been a while since an update!

Ford GT500 bonnet vent in...

Drilled 82 degree 'stat

Coolant flush

Front ARB chopped out and binned

New MAF - just because, really! Couldn't find any history of it ever being changed, so for piece of mind decided to get it swapped

Also had some fuel lines that were looking perished - so those were replaced.

Bedford on Monday- let's see how it goes!










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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Any more pictures of the bonnet vent install ?. How difficult was it ?.
Good luck on Monday.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Any more pictures of the bonnet vent install ?. How difficult was it ?.
> Good luck on Monday.


I haven't, but will try to remember to get some.

I don't think the mechanic particularly enjoyed taking an angle grinder to the car - but I don't think it was hard. From memory I think I was charged perhaps an hour labour including fettling to get a nice fit?

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Here we go, some more pics of the vent...
































































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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Thanks for those. That looks to be a great idea for venting the bonnet.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

A couple of videos from the day!

Trying to catch a mate in his cayman s:






Brummie Eddie - quite an entertaining passenger...the conversation at the end made me chuckle listening back afterwards:






Only my second time at Bedford, the first was when my friend and I first bought the car around 18months ago. Really enjoyed it! Still very much learning the track though - it's a long ild circuit - 4 miles!

The car ran much better than the last outing at Snetterton during the heatwave, but temps are still high. I had the coolant warning once, and oil temps didn't take long to get to 120-125. I thought I'd see if I could get away with just the vent - but no, I think alloy rad next and my friend has a small mocal oil cooler which I'm buying from him and plan to mount centrally and run in series with the cooler that's already in there. I think those two things should solve the temps issue.

One other thing happened though. There are two long right handers towards the end of the lap, and a couple of times in the morning I lost power after them. Same thing happened at Snetterton and I'd assumed it was limp mode due to EGT too high. I was wrong - it was actually fuel starvation. The tank was about 1/3 full when this first happened and got worse. I filled up at lunch, and the problem disappeared until much later in the afternoon when fuel was low again. So, I'll need a swirl pot to fix that.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

So. I've booked myself onto a trackday at the Nurburgring in April.

<Gulp>

I briefly considered taking my R8 instead- but what's the point of having a dedicated track car if I'm going to leave it at home when going to the best known track in the world? Also - I'd probably want to shoot myself if I binned the R8.

I now have a list of jobs I want to sort.

For the remaining cooling issues:
- CSF radiator
- Install second small (9 row) cooler, mounted centrally

For the fuel starvation issue:
- 1L swirl pot

For the sake of my backside on the long drive to/from the ring:
- Burn the cobra monaco seats and replace with some more comfortable alternatives. Also, ones that aren't red!!

I wish I'd thought ahead and bought the CSF rad while I was in the US not too long ago - it's £100 cheaper!

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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Cracking job

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## temperal (Dec 2, 2015)

Hi 
great thread, regarding temps i noticed an imporvement from removing the front undertray but mailnly because my smic is now in the airstream , apparantly lsd front and rear are the way to go 4 sharper handling big expense i guess
just a question on the front arb was told locally it was needed for the mot new regs etc is there any way round this?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

temperal said:


> Hi
> great thread, regarding temps i noticed an imporvement from removing the front undertray but mailnly because my smic is now in the airstream , apparantly lsd front and rear are the way to go 4 sharper handling big expense i guess
> just a question on the front arb was told locally it was needed for the mot new regs etc is there any way round this?


Thanks

Undertray is long gone! Also the weather strip at the back of the engine bay.

That's an interesting point about the ARB. I do have a friendly MOT guy - but will look into that nonetheless! Thanks for bringing it up.

If I ever end up significantly increasing the power (I.e. big or hybrid turbo) LSD may be worth a look. At the moment though, I'm pretty happy with the way it handles - although I don't feel I'm making the most of the grip potential. I.e. I'd look at wider wheels and tyres, and a haldex map, before LSD.

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## Amulet banana (Nov 12, 2018)

I was always under the impression a front lsd was more of a hinderance with turn in on a 4wd car?


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## temperal (Dec 2, 2015)

hi 
yes i actually have a fwd mk1 and love the way it handles /traction is way better with front arb disconnected but with my luck if i remove it prob need to refit for mot!, i must say regards turn in the biggest improvement came from the cookbots castor increase wishbone bushes,- interesting point about lsd on 4wd i hadnt factored that in i see on a genuine 4wd car that would have an effect but the way the tt system works as i see it it, still predominantly a fwd relys on loosing front end grip before sending power to the rear but dunno
btw seems with the traction control switched off ie abs fuse pulled seems much keener response


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

New CSF 7025 rad in my possession now, along with the oil cooler. 1L swirl pot winging its way to the garage, where the car will meet it next week!

Once this lot is done - hopefully I'm all set for cooling.

I decided to contact Trups at EM Tuning about my headlights too - as they're so bad it feels dangerous driving back on unlit roads from trackdays. While the garage have the bumper off - they'll send the lights off to him, and he's going to upgrade the xenon projector units to aftermarket Morimoto versions, and tidy up the outside lens of the lights.

Trups previously upgraded the xenons in my RS4, and the light output afterwards was like having a floodlight!

I'd post a pic but Tapatalk not letting me!

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Here we go...RS4 light output after Trups worked his magic










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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I was considering upgrading my rad to the CSF item when I put the car back together, Prawn seems to have had great results with it and it certainly looks well made compared to the various Chinese options available.
I upgraded the projectors in my TT and they have made the lights so much better, Trups does some great work but it does come at a price.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 1#p9075421


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Been a while since an update!

Recent upgrades:
- Recaro Pole Positions
- CSF radiator
- Second Mocal oil cooler
- 1L fuel swirl pot, with Bosch inline pump

I'm off to the ring next week to pop my cherry, so ahead of that - decided I should do a shakedown so went to Bedford with some mates.

The first bit of good news was the drive there was soooo much more comfortable in the new seats! The cobras were shiiite!










On track - first run of the day, I intended to just be out there for 10min and see how temps were looking. Well - they were great! Oil and coolant were looking good, so I carried on till I'd been out 20min and then was on a cool down lap - when my mate blasted past in his Clio, and the red mist descended!

I spent 10min chasing him, and then out of nowhere a load of fluid ejected out of the bonnet vent all over the windscreen, and what looked like smoke started pouring out of the engine bay.

I pulled over immediately, luckily next to a Marshall post - who were already running at me with fire extinguishers!

Turns out it was actually coolant. There's a radiator hose that sits very close to the fans - and had been sliced open. I guess the engine had been moving around a fair bit on track, and then the fans came on too..










I had no joy locating a replacement pipe - so called the AA out who patched it up with self-amalgamating tape. We ran the car up to temp to make sure it held, and tried to zip-tie the hose out of the way of the fan.

I wasn't going to let a day off work and a trackday go to waste - so I did a tentative lap and all was good, so carried on!

I managed another 3 or 4 runs in the afternoon before the same thing happened again!










I called it a day at this point! My mates were a massive help; had some of that magic tape, and helped do bodge v2. This time, we cut about 1/2" off the end of the pipe furthest from the rad - to give it a bit more clearance.

Self amalgamating tape + gaffer tape + jubilee clip around the split area:










Bodge v2 held all the way back to my garage; 2.5hrs drive. I had to stop a couple of times as the coolant warning came on - as air worked out of the system and caused the level to drop.

All in all - was still a fun day out - and I'm glad this happened now and not around the ring!










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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Fair play to you Sir!

Not only for the build and for getting out there and doing stuff but for taking the trouble to write and tell us all about it.

Love all this stuff.

Thank you.

Specsman 8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

SPECSMAN said:


> Fair play to you Sir!
> 
> Not only for the build and for getting out there and doing stuff but for taking the trouble to write and tell us all about it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Specsman! I still feel I don't use it enough.

With that in mind...off to the ring!

After the customary "random selection" at Folkestone...










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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Well - what an epic trip!!

The ring is daunting at first. Videos don't prepare you for the blind crests and steepness of the hills.

I'm extremely glad I went with a group of like-minded guys (mix of newbies and people that went before - but no nutters), and on a closed track day rather than a tourist day. No motorbikes to worry about, and less traffic. It also meant that the first hour of the day, from 8am to 9am, was no overtaking and trying to keep below 60mph - just to let newbies get used to the track. That was a big help.

The other thing that helped was access to an instructor. As we were in a group - we hired an instructor for the entire day (450 euros) and then split the cost depending on how many laps we did with him. He was invaluable .

I managed 12 laps over the day, including 4 with Yosha - our instructor.

The length and nature of the track meant that by the end of the day, I was only just beginning to get familiar with parts of the track. I think I'd need multiple trips to get as comfortable with it as you can get with a normal UK track in a single day. It's just so long and with so many bends!! I was pretty tentative looking back, and wish I went faster - but I just wasn't confident enough in knowing the track! There's no room for error either - the barriers are close!

The car performed very well. No breakdowns, no issues with fluid temperatures at all. The instructor seemed to quite like it too - commenting that it felt light, stable and planted - but perhaps it could be even more planted (particularly at the rear) if I got a rear wing and wider tyres. The rear tyres in particular did seem to get punished pretty badly - leaving these mounds of rubber that I was riding around on by the end of the day...










I told myself I wouldn't time myself - but I caved. The best I managed, was a 10:01 on lap 10 with Yosha on board. So - I really wanted to crack 10min. I felt sure I could do it (my virtual best - stitching best sectors together was 9:55, and Yosha plus his rucksack added close to 100kg). So I went out again just before the track closed to us, without the extra weight - but I guess others had similar ideas and had been pushing too hard - as lap 11 featured 2 yellow flag incidents. I carried on - hoping they'd be cleared by lap 12 but unfortunately not - yellow flags still out. And so the day was over. Damn it! Next time

A consolation was that the journey home was in convoy with mates in B7 RS4, B8 RS4, B5 S4 (running >400bhp), and a Cayman S ... via the autobahn. I managed an indicated 147mph (read off waze - speedo said 150) ....legally! Had to back out due to traffic but I don't think I would've gone much faster.

Overall a fantastic experience, loads of fun, and I'll definitely be back!

Pics:














































Video:






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## SPECSMAN (Oct 11, 2016)

Just watched your video.

Seems like a very smooth and rapid drive to me; what a wonderful experience, for you and us.

Thank you for posting it.

8)


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

*RuskiWeldShit*

You may have heard of JCWeldFab ? Make quality custom exhausts, intercoolers, motorsport parts etc.

Now meet - RuskiWeldShit (or Ilya to his comrads). I'm claiming 10% royalties on the name...










Ilya volunteered (worryingly enthusiastically) to do some jobs on the TT for me. This was appealing, as 1. the man can work a spanner much better than I (just see his track car for proof), 2. I couldn't be f***ed, 3. Mates rates innit

So - the job list was:

- Make a functional splitter - using some mounting brackets that I'd purchased
- Relocate battery, using a lightweight Li-On replacement
- Fit replacement V6 front bumper I bought on eBay
- Fit replacement fibreglass wings (approx 2" wider - as I hope to fit 265 tyres soon)
- Fit cold air feed to my intake

In addition, Ilya knocked up a little switchboard and mounted a battery cutoff on it, and also mounted a lightweight fire extinguisher (i'd gaffer taped one to my cage......what?)

New wings:









Battery relocated. New one less than 2kg!









Cutoff switch:


















Cold air feed:









Tow strap (Ilya's idea)









Splitter fabrication - with some highly technical guidance from me (the pink squiggly line)








































































Massive thanks to Ilya for his epic work!

Unfortunately I haven't actually seen the car since it was all done - as it left on a trailer straight from him, to TSR Performance (Rob at TSR is a well regarded engine builder for the 1.8T).










There, it will be getting a bit of a power bump 










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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

This is such a cool thread, isn't the splitter supposed to have air flow over the lip/chin to create down-force?

I assume once you have your new big turbo fitted you are junking the s2000 air filter?

On the 1st page you listed several cars you were considering. Do you have any regrets in picking the TT? They are so crazy modifiable, but aren't the NA Clios actually quicker on a track? Or is that just as stock?

What rods and exhaust valves do you have?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> This is such a cool thread, isn't the splitter supposed to have air flow over the lip/chin to create down-force?
> 
> I assume once you have your new big turbo fitted you are junking the s2000 air filter?
> 
> ...


Thanks!

So the downforce comes from having flow of air at relatively high velocity (low pressure) under the car, and higher pressure (lower velocity) above - as you increase the velocity of a fluid, it's pressure drops. This is called the Bernoulli effect, and wings exploit it by causing the air moving over the top of the wing to move faster than the air underneath - causing a pressure difference. About the only thing I remember from university!

A splitter and air dam is designed to try and create that pressure difference by creating slow moving air on the upper surface relative to the underside - without actually being wing shaped. The air dam, as the name suggests, creates an area of locally, very slow air, which means higher pressure. That's the theory anyway!

I'm not too sure if the S2000 filter will be junked or not - will take TSR's advice.

You're right that the clios are indeed faster out of the box. You have to do a lot to a TT to get it as good on track - but I think the upside potential is much higher! I have 4 mates who either have or had a clio track car, so fairly familiar with them. I wouldn't swap my TT for any of them - even though one is a complete monster (turbo'd, dog-box, completely stripped - currently much faster that the TT).

TSR will be using IE rods, and supertech valves

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Got some pics from TSR yesterday...





















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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Get them to strip the air con out whilst the engine is out, save you the cost of repressurising it and also take some weight out of the car right at the front.Also look like a proper track day car driver sweating when you get out of the car  .


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Get them to strip the air con out whilst the engine is out, save you the cost of repressurising it and also take some weight out of the car right at the front.Also look like a proper track day car driver sweating when you get out of the car  .


Nope. Nah. Never!

I'm keeping it! Too much of a pussy to deal with the long drive to/from the track without a/c!

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks for the description of the down force, I have such a bad memory, I think someone described this before. So the wing is not about pushing the car down but instead interfering with the air flow, causing a change in air pressure essentially sucking the car down?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> Thanks for the description of the down force, I have such a bad memory, I think someone described this before. So the wing is not about pushing the car down but instead interfering with the air flow, causing a change in air pressure essentially sucking the car down?


You'll find much better descriptions online - but I'll have a bash!

So a wing (in the context of a car) and splitter have the same aim - to create downforce (negative lift), by manipulating the airflow to create pressure differences. Note that a wing on a car is just an upside down aerofoil shape. Also note it creates some drag.

A spoiler is a bit different - it is not intended to create downforce. A spoiler reduces lift, and reduces drag. Couple of things here to note

- When air smoothly flows across a surface - staying in contact with the surface, that is called laminar flow
- The opposite is turbulent flow and causes drag. You get turbulent flow when the laminar flow detaches from the surface
- To generate lift (positive or negative), you need laminar flow. An aeroplane stalls because the angle of the wing has become too extreme (normally around 14 degrees, from memory) for laminar flow to be maintained - so you get detachment of flow

On a car (let's imagine a TT shape), the air flows in a nice laminar manner over the roof, down the back window of the car, over the boot, and it'll detach somewhere at the rear of the car, depending on speed, and then you'll have turbulent flow behind that point. If you look side on to a TT it has a sort of aerofoil shape - a curved upper surface and relatively flat underside. So, at high speed - it can actually generate lift! The last thing you want on a car is it trying to fly!

What a spoiler does, is force the air to detach earlier, at a consistent point and reduce the lift generated. A well designed spoiler will also control the turbulent flow, and actually reduce drag.










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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

So, rods have been upgraded (to ZRP items), and the valve train (supertech). Needed new valve guides too as TSR assessed they had a bit too much play in them.










Next up - Turbo kit to be fitted and engine refitted hopefully next week, and should be getting mapped the week after

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Cool, I assume they are rifle drilled forged rods?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> Cool, I assume they are rifle drilled forged rods?


Indeed; rifle drilled, I-beam, forged










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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Broom broom.. 2 weeks time?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Exhaust valve guides seem to be the minimum on any build that is using a head with more than 50K miles on it. They wear a lot more than the intake side. I replaced just the exhaust side on mine as the intake were fine. The valve guides are the same size all around and you could feel the extra wear in the exhaust with the extra side to side movement.
Looking good, If you are anything like me you will be getting the run in miles out of the way quickly.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Exhaust valve guides seem to be the minimum on any build that is using a head with more than 50K miles on it. They wear a lot more than the intake side. I replaced just the exhaust side on mine as the intake were fine. The valve guides are the same size all around and you could feel the extra wear in the exhaust with the extra side to side movement.
> Looking good, If you are anything like me you will be getting the run in miles out of the way quickly.


Run-in miles?

Isn't that what the drive to the track is for? 

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Maybe take a trailer to bring it home 

Surely Millers running in oil?
50 (wilko own mineral), 
200, 
500 to bed the rings and big end bearings in?

Millers is max 500 miles

I am a bit flummoxed though as I know Bill changed these parts on djs tt with 380aet and mapped to 370 the same day on the dyno. Maybe engine builders can fast track bedding in on a dyno.? You don't see Lewis Hamilton running in his engine for 750 miles in-between races


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

In all seriousness - I'll take TSR's advice on this. They're the engine builder and they've done loads of these. If it needs X easy road miles - so be it.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Another update from TSR - my clutchmasters FX400 clutch (a year old) isn't looking too clever, and is likely to have a very short life with the new power.

So, while everything is still apart, we're going to swap out the friction plate to a Sachs Performance jobby!

In other news. The car has had several names...shitbox, Turbo-Tincan, Turbo Hairdryer etc...I'm thinking to rebrand as "Hair Force 1"

Contemplating a wrap with some graphics, so might get that slapped on the car somewhere!

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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

Can we get a title change PLEASE

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

HOGG said:


> Can we get a title change PLEASE
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


To? Hair Force 1?

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

So - the engine is back in the engine bay - with the G25-550 strapped on!

Next up - having some hard intercooler pipes fabricated to fit the new toyosport wellycooler (replacing the less effective forge item)



















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## HOGG (Mar 30, 2018)

FJ1000 said:


> HOGG said:
> 
> 
> > Can we get a title change PLEASE
> ...


Yeah

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Did you update the exhaust valve springs to supertech too?


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

How is this build coming along?

Have TSR hit a snag?


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> How is this build coming along?
> 
> Have TSR hit a snag?


I asked that exact question last week! I've been assured they haven't hit a problem.

I haven't been putting on any pressure (was away for 3 weeks) and they seem to have been swamped with other jobs - so my project was on the back burner. Ah well.

I'm told it just needs mapping

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Latest pic










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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Thanks for the update, fabricated charge circuit - cool.

Don't you need a supersized DV with this setup?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I would always worry slightly when a company has so much work floating around that yours is delayed, as inevitably I would suspect things may be done in a more rushed manner. I suppose you can get away with the standard plastic dump valve where it's placed. At least it won't be seeing 200 degree plus temps and 2 bar off the turbo side. Is it being tuned MAF less with the standard ECU?. 
I would have thought you would need some heat wrap around the silicon turbo take off pipe, looks like there is something there. Taking the plastic bag off the air filter will deffo help performance .


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## Bajanfastcat (Jun 14, 2019)

What make of air filter is it.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

423bhp on a safe map, 1.7bar of boost. Happy with that!!










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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

That's excellent news how come the wheel bhp is only 243bhp with 179bhp drag loss?

That is like 42% drive train loss isn't it?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Looks like a Maha dyno. I am not entirely sure why they calculate such a large powertrain loss but they always do come out with lower whp figures and large losses. The actual calculated power output seems to be ballpark though. Similar to what mine made when I got it dynoed at Bills. Will the car have more than 1 map on it ? 
Warp factor 2 Mr Sulu


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

I thought a dyno gathered the Wheel HP then calculated the crank BHP, based on the run down to create a drag loss %

@FJ... do you know if this was a 4 wheel drive dyno? I think they are always vastly different.

on ASN I skimmed through a thread this morning and most drag was about 20% but some people said about issues with 30% loss - but I think they were just running FWD as the rear was causing issues.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Looks like a Maha dyno. I am not entirely sure why they calculate such a large powertrain loss but they always do come out with lower whp figures and large losses. The actual calculated power output seems to be ballpark though. Similar to what mine made when I got it dynoed at Bills. Will the car have more than 1 map on it ?
> Warp factor 2 Mr Sulu


It is indeed a Maha dyno, and TSR themselves say that the drag calculation on it is "weird".

It'll just be running the one map. I plan to drive it like this for a few months - then if I want more power, will add WMI and map again

I think 420bhp will probably be enough to scare the **** out of me !

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> I thought a dyno gathered the Wheel HP then calculated the crank BHP, based on the run down to create a drag loss %
> 
> @FJ... do you know if this was a 4 wheel drive dyno? I think they are always vastly different.
> 
> on ASN I skimmed through a thread this morning and most drag was about 20% but some people said about issues with 30% loss - but I think they were just running FWD as the rear was causing issues.


This is a 2WD dyno - so they disable the haldex and it runs in FWD

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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

TSR has a 4WD Maha dyno but I suspect they were probably running the car just FWD. This seems the norm for haldex cars. 
This TTS is just using the front wheels.




https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3965266-


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Well - I've finally driven it...

F*ck-me-sideways!!! It's fast.

Got some 265 wide tyres on it too (on 18x8.75 ET20 wheels), and the finishing touch - a big gay wing!!! Thanks to my mad Russian mate Ilya for fitting it.










Don't worry- it's functional. Here are the stats per aerofoil - of which there are two. The rear end of the car moves about a fair bit on track without it - so hopefully this will help it stay planted










Had some fun on Facebook with it...


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## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

Faisal,

Keep up the good work. Love reading this build and thanks for the Facebook update. I thought you handled the dick heads most eloquently.


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

You must have expected a certain level of banter from the fb group :lol:


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Thanks! I didn't expect so much fun without even being in the car - but I really enjoyed replying to all the FB comments!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Forgot this one! (It got deleted by admins - I never saw what he replied with but it must've been "abusive")










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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

I saw this recently and I dunno if its more effective but this looks v cool.

If your going big then This is the one to get!


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Oh no.... what have you done to your beautiful TT?

Get yourself on here...




























You also need some more exhausts..



















Only joshing with you... your car, your decision....

Are you happy with the mechanicals of the big turbo? Any dynos of the rebuild?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Ignore them all they are all jealous. I did consider buying one of the BYC wings in the forum buy, but most of the driving I do is on the road and my current rear wing attracts enough attention. Also now it's running more than 500bhp I think I may need to revisit the brakes. Fine on the road but in the summer on track they may not be upto it.
If you really want to get more power out of the car I would buy an Ignitron ECU and map it yourself. Not that difficult, the wizard is great and get's you going in 10 minutes. Get somebody to dissasemble your existing map in terms of timing , lambda boost etc and that gives you a great starting point.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Wak said:


> I saw this recently and I dunno if its more effective but this looks v cool.
> 
> If your going big then This is the one to get!


You joke WaK, but I said out loud to my mad Russian mate "wouldn't it be cool if someone made a wing with DRC" (I.e. wing angle flattens to reduce drag, at the touch of the button). He's only gone and done it! It'll be going on his mental turbocharged Clio track toy.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

StuartDB said:


> Oh no.... what have you done to your beautiful TT?
> 
> Are you happy with the mechanicals of the big turbo? Any dynos of the rebuild?


Beautiful TT?

You must've had my car mistaken with someone else's haha!

Associating me with Max Power though - that's unfair... I'll have you know far less care and attention has gone into the external appearance of my car! 

Dyno is further up the thread - 423bhp at 6.5k revs. Couldn't get it to redline (7.2k) without front tyres slipping on the rollers.

I'll find out more about how good the mechanicals are when I test it on track - hopefully later this month.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Ignore them all they are all jealous. I did consider buying one of the BYC wings in the forum buy, but most of the driving I do is on the road and my current rear wing attracts enough attention. Also now it's running more than 500bhp I think I may need to revisit the brakes. Fine on the road but in the summer on track they may not be upto it.
> If you really want to get more power out of the car I would buy an Ignitron ECU and map it yourself. Not that difficult, the wizard is great and get's you going in 10 minutes. Get somebody to dissasemble your existing map in terms of timing , lambda boost etc and that gives you a great starting point.


What's your current brake setup? I'm questioning if mine will still be up to the job too...

Front: Seat Leon LCR 4-pot calipers, carbotech XP10 pads, 323mm j-hook discs.

Rear: 300mm disc conversion on OEM calipers. Hawk pads (I forget which compound).

Motul RBF660 or 600 fluid

At the moment I don't want any more power - but yes, I've thought about the ignition and WMI at a later point if I do want any more power. For now, I'd like to get used to the 420-430 odd, see if I need brake upgrades, and perhaps revisit next summer.

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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

> .......Beautiful TT?
> 
> You must've had my car mistaken with someone else's....


All TTs are beautiful


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

FJ1000 said:


> desertstorm said:
> 
> 
> > Also now it's running more than 500bhp I think I may need to revisit the brakes. Fine on the road but in the summer on track they may not be upto it.
> ...


I am running RS3 TTRS 4 pot brembo calipers with OE 3.2 V6 ATE 334 x32mm discs and Pagid RS29 brake pads. Rears are standard discs but calipers with 43mm pistons instead of 38mm items. Gives you equivalent of 330mm rear discs. with Pagid RS4-2 pads.
Also have brake venting pipes feeding cold air to the front brakes.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

I couldn't resist. The wang just gets such brilliant responses on Facebook - so I posted on another group....


























































































































































































































































































































































































































































Ok. I'm going to stop spamming you now!!

Trackday booked for later this month!


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

First time out on track since the G25-550 went in! My passenger didn't enjoy it as much as I did! 






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## Tuscan12 (Mar 3, 2018)

OMG, Garrrrrrrry Coldwell! What a special human being he is :lol: Keep up the good work Faisal [smiley=dude.gif] [smiley=dude.gif]


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Looked like fun. Would like to have a go at Bedford Just worried the noise restrictions may catch me out. The Extreme VR1 tyres look to do the job, which compound are they ?.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Tuscan12 said:


> OMG, Garrrrrrrry Coldwell! What a special human being he is :lol: Keep up the good work Faisal [smiley=dude.gif] [smiley=dude.gif]


Gutted he didn't bite on giving me "a lesson on taste".

I was too keen - I shouldn't have pounced on it so enthusiastically - gave the game away I think!

Damn.

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Looked like fun. Would like to have a go at Bedford Just worried the noise restrictions may catch me out. The Extreme VR1 tyres look to do the job, which compound are they ?.


It was a lot of fun! Just a shame about the weather - very greasy in the morning, started drying up around 11am, drizzle at lunch made it greasy again (little standing water), and then the rain picked up around 3pm for the final hour and was very wet and lots of standing water.

The tyres (which are the S2 compound - £55 for 265/35/18) performed really well all day until that final hour - when I started sliding a lot. I had a set of uniroyal rainsports with me and they would have done better in the heavier rain and standing water, but at that point in the day - I couldn't be arsed putting them on for maybe a couple of outings. I'd had a good day and just packed up. Everyone that got in the car (and some other drivers in the pits) commented on the grip levels being really good.

Glad you mentioned noise. That tripped me up actually. I passed the static test no problem but then was black flagged on my first outing. I'd tripped one of the drive by microphones - just as you come out of the pits, after the sharp left/hairpin on the run down to the first chicane, situated on the left hand side of the track. They were really good about it to be honest - they let me go out, after telling me where the microphone was - and I just had to take it easy near it. Was fine the rest of the day.

However - has got me thinking about making the exhaust a bit quieter. Perhaps some beefier backboxes.

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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Think Bedford is about the worst track in the country for noise. Good of them to let you go out again, I think if you are overly noisy they just send you away. Thanks for the heads up.
I am not 100% about fitting remoulds on a car that I could be doing 140 mph in, I have read some good reviews on them, they are cheap enough. I am doing Silverstone National on 14th December, found a code to get it for £100 which is good for Silverstone. Not sure what the weather will be like,The A052 tyres i have are fairly hard and in slick greasy conditions will be sliding all over the place. Probably end up leaving my normal road tyres on 245/35/18 MPSS.
Carrying another set of wheels to the track will be a bit of a mission as I will need to remove the front seat to put two wheels behind the seats. The TT is not the most practical car especially with a roll cage in it.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Think Bedford is about the worst track in the country for noise. Good of them to let you go out again, I think if you are overly noisy they just send you away. Thanks for the heads up.
> I am not 100% about fitting remoulds on a car that I could be doing 140 mph in, I have read some good reviews on them, they are cheap enough. I am doing Silverstone National on 14th December, found a code to get it for £100 which is good for Silverstone. Not sure what the weather will be like,The A052 tyres i have are fairly hard and in slick greasy conditions will be sliding all over the place. Probably end up leaving my normal road tyres on 245/35/18 MPSS.
> Carrying another set of wheels to the track will be a bit of a mission as I will need to remove the front seat to put two wheels behind the seats. The TT is not the most practical car especially with a roll cage in it.


With some careful packing getting the angles right - I get 3 in the back and put one on the passenger seat (in a wheel bag, with bungy cord around it).

With my old seats I used to be able to squeeze one wheel in between the seats and behind the passenger seat, with it all the way forward.

235/45/17 tyres. Safety devices rear cage

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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

I cannot get 3 in the boot. You have the same cage as me but my wheels are a little larger I think. Normal road wheels are 245/35/18 and the track wheels 235/40/18 although your 235/45/17 tyres are pretty much the same as my 235/40/18 on a tyre size calculator. What size are your rims ?, My track wheels are on an 8.5 inch rim, I think this is what is causing the issue.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

A few pics from Monday






































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## NickG (Aug 15, 2013)

FJ1000 said:


> I couldn't resist. The wang just gets such brilliant responses on Facebook - so I posted on another group....
> 
> Ok. I'm going to stop spamming you now!!
> 
> Trackday booked for later this month!


This lot absolutely killed me :lol: I love the Wang haters, they make for great entertainment when you're a bit bored.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

It's been a loooong time since an update!

In January- my boss got fired from work, and I got promoted. Big shoes to fill, and a crap load to do - so I couldn't get out on track before the lockdown started.

Finally got out again last week, with some buddies. The M3, 2x cayman s's and 911 GT3 are all mates - all pretty handy on track too!

GT3 was lapping in 2:13, caymans 2:17-2:18, M3 2:20, and the TT 2:24. My best lap was actually the first in the vid - I slowed a bit to let the white cayman through and made mistakes - so the car is capable of going quicker. Unfortunately the day ended at lunch though when I noticed oil drips under the car. Fearing it was gearbox or transfer box related, I called it quits. Seems it was actually engine oil and there is a breather pipe near where it was leaking (only when hot, coming off the track)...proper investigation to follow.

Anyway - here's the vid - the camera angle works well I reckon!






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## Spliffy (May 3, 2013)

The Wang Cam works very well !. Looks like a bit of body roll on the corners although that may be exaggerated by the camera being relatively high. Nice lap.

Nick


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

A few pics from Snetterton


























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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Been playing spot the difference between the first 3 photos. Struggling a bit. I like the arty black and white one.


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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

desertstorm said:


> Been playing spot the difference between the first 3 photos. Struggling a bit. I like the arty black and white one.


Lol!

It's the forum. I uploaded three pics - and if I go to edit the post, there are only three pictures. However the first picture is repeated three times!

No issues when I uploaded to another forum. Odd

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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Latest outing.






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## FJ1000 (Nov 21, 2015)

Well it's been a while - but the Turbo Turd was back in action at Donington last week! Love this thing























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