# Headlight lens polishing



## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

*Edit* I'd originally intended to give them "a quick polish" but eventually realised that what was needed was a complete refurb by removing the clearcoat.

I split my headlights yesterday, tinted the corners, painted the insides just about put them back together. Not a job for the faint hearted (like me !) but once you've got as far as taking them off the car there's no going back !

Anyway, decided to have a go at polishing the lenses whilst they're off the car.
Not pretty :-(
Started with 120 grit (whoops ! Should have used 400) wet and dry and worked up to 2000. Then put a bit of polish on my DA with a black waffle pad and ran it across for a couple of minutes. Looks awful.

An ideas where I'm going wrong ?



















*edit : it was a combination of too low grit paper and incorrect technique.


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## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

You started with much to coarse paper would be my guess, those scratches look deep!, You need lots and lots of water and need those scratches sanded out. Only then can you buff it with a cutting compound and then polish. That would be my guess and possible fix anyways


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Yeah I was keen to get rid of a few deep scratches when I started but perhaps 120 grit was a bit too much.


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## Matt B (Apr 8, 2007)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... ht-Lenses!!

Don't know where you went wrong but this thread seems to suggest you need to spend a fair amount of time sanding


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## J•RED (Feb 10, 2013)

Lots of time with wet n dry!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I think I need higher than 2000 grit - like 3500.


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## Typhhon (Oct 28, 2006)

120 was probably the issue.
I used 1500 then Menz 203S
More 2000 and a cutting pad (orange) suggested.
Black to finish.
Just watch temperature as lots of passes with a DA required. 
Rotary delivers a quicker finish.
Mask off a small area and see how much work needed before trying the whole lens.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

What sort of speed should I be using ?


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## Danny1 (Sep 2, 2010)

mullum said:


> What sort of speed should I be using ?


Speed isn't to important its time spent on the lens and passes etc, I would use 4k and just let it cool after a couple of passes, but most of the work is with wet and dry.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Very low speed! I do sanding of plastic by hand because I've had it melting if I use my dremmel.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Well I did a good few hours on one lens with wet n dry up to 2000 grit and it was still hazy/milky. After that I tried some tcut then some medium polish and it still looks crap :-(
Think I'll buy some quixx or the meguirs stuff and maybe try some 3500 grit first.

*Edit* I hadn't been using the correct technique which is to use one grit in each direction until all scratches from the previous have gone. I also shouldn't have started with 120 grit - 400 would've been better.


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## spaceplace (Mar 10, 2013)

once you get it smoother tooth paste is a good abrasive and cheap


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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

spaceplace said:


> once you get it smoother tooth paste is a good abrasive and cheap


Also you can use Autoglym super resin polish as it has very mild abrasives

Paul


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## temporarychicken (Oct 16, 2012)

Polishing up the plastic lenses is actually much harder to do than it looks on various instructional videos!

I tried any number of products on my lenses last week after sanding them down, including farecla G3, T-cut, Autoglym. and it was almost impossible to get to anything better than a dull shine.

The fact is, the headlamps on the TT left the factory with a UV protective coating. This breaks down over time and goes chalky and flakey. When you rub it down with wet and dry, you remove this layer completely, and are relying on the clear plastic underneath to gloss up.

Perhaps some dedicated plastic polish might help, since all the products you (and I) have tried already are aimed at working with hard paint, not soft plastic!


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## Serendipitous (Nov 19, 2011)

Pugwash69 said:


> Very low speed! I do sanding of plastic by hand because I've had it melting if I use my dremmel.


Yes do this by hand.

The scratches you have with the 120 are too deep now to remove with 2000. Start again as if you hadn't touched them as follows:

Use 1000 dipped in a bucket of soapy water (Fairy liquid) and give them a good sanding all over. A tip is to then dry them with a leather and any remaining deeper marks will be clearly visible. (They're not when it's wet which gives the illusion you've done enough)

When the lenses are very smoothly mat all over when dry with no more deeper scratches, use 2000 and repeat with the soapy water.

Then use a fine rubbing compund on a buffing cloth mixed with water. A neat few blobs of rubbing compound on the cloth first then dip it in water so it feels like a wrung out dish cloth. A lot of elbow grease now.

Follow this with T cut and then finish with something like Autoglym super resin.

If they're not quite perfect repeat the previous step.

Job done.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Serendipitous said:


> Pugwash69 said:
> 
> 
> > Very low speed! I do sanding of plastic by hand because I've had it melting if I use my dremmel.
> ...


Brilliant instructions, much appreciated - I will do exactly that tomorrow and for the second headlight I'll skip the bit where I put deep scratches in with 120 grit !

Thanks everyone for all your advice


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

Check my thread for what I did, I started with 400 grit and finished with fine metal polish. Pics I have dont do it justice its chalk and cheese in the flesh.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=544986&hilit=+shiney&start=15


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Metal polish eh, I've got some here somewhere - I'll give it a go before I start over ;-) cheers


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Toothpaste on a damp cloth is good, when getting near to final polish.
Hoggy.


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## Idun (Nov 4, 2012)

I use Polywatch as used to polish plastic/acrylic watch glasses. Some metal polishes have an adverse long term effect on acrylics.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Idun said:


> I use Polywatch as used to polish plastic/acrylic watch glasses. Some metal polishes have an adverse long term effect on acrylics.


Cheers, another interesting product I'd not heard of before. 
£3.89 for 5ml - I wonder how much I'd need for 2 headlights.


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## sixohsixone (May 31, 2009)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1911...f11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
The only thing I'll contemplate using? Micromesh as used on helicopter canopies etc. Buddy looking at your after picture just wondering about the technique. You need to work in opposite directions to the previous grade paper used ,making sure previous scratches eliminated. 
I'm sure people have been ok using other stuff and sure you'll get a good result. Hope my info helps.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

It's true the first time I was just sanding in random directions. The last attempt I was sanding always in the same direction, but what you're saying makes sense ;-)


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I've gone back to 320 grit and I'm taking out any scratches which are there from the previous direction/grit.

One direction :










Whilst I'm working, how about sealants ?
Are the headlights made of acrylic and what would be a good coating to put on to protect this hard earned finish I'm going to achieve (goddamit!) ?
I came across something on eBay ..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380882658113


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Still at 400 grit ! Still seeing scratches from 320 :-(
Maybe the paper has lost it's bite ??

Sheesh this is a lot of work !










Someone mentioned putting film protectors on their headlights the other day ... Anyone remember who makes those ?


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Lamin-x are the ones I plan to fit when I've polished. Buy plain sheets and cut out after applying. It's easier than pre-cut shapes.


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## lotuselanplus2s (Jun 18, 2012)

Hi Mullum

many thanks for airing all of this - it's helped me decide to be very happy with my lenses.

Good luck


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Yeah no shi+ lol

Now I know why people pay for the service. Once you pull out the wet n dry the nightmare begins. I wish I'd just used polish to be honest and not gone this deep :-/
400 grit almost done


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## Jaylad (Sep 21, 2013)

Can you not get replacments ?


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## slingy (May 11, 2012)

I used this kit and it worked very well It attaches to a drill and comes with everything contained......using a drill on lowest setting will cut your time down significantly...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-Headlight-Re ... ration+kit


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

This would be the time as I've spilt the lights and could easily swap over the internals. But after this much effort I'm likely to persevere.

The compound stage is still way off !
I'm only on 600 grit right now.










Forgot to photo 800 grit ...
1000 :










Forgot to photo 1200 grit ...
1500 :










2000 :










After toothpaste (whitening) maybe too early for this :










After chrome polish (halfords) :


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

After tcut using a DA and a black waffle pad (??) and then polarshine t10 using an orange pad.










Less scary now but still an horrendous amount of scratches in there after all that work !

Shame I don't have anything higher than 2000 grit or some proper headlight restorer polish.

Enough for today ! Will continue when some arrives ..

*edit - the plastic polish never did arrive, so I continued with the t10 and the da with an orange pad. Good results ;-)


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Look good. Mine need doing but I might be lazy and try the 3M kit, despite the drill use!


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## brian1978 (Jul 10, 2013)

mullum said:


> After tcut using a DA and a black waffle pad (??) and then polarshine t10 using an orange pad.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Don't Halfords sell 2500 grit.


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## basky (May 26, 2009)

Looking 100% better matey  and your smoked corners look nice too :wink:


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

brian1978 said:


> Don't Halfords sell 2500 grit.


I'm sure they do but I shoulda thunk of that this morning !
Anyway even though I've got it pretty well polished and shiny there are still some scratches :-( not sure how they got there after 8 hours of removing them fastidiously !
I just don't want to go back to wet and dry if I can help it !


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## V70RLee (Mar 9, 2014)

Very simply, the mistake you made was using the 120grit in the first place.

Despite the factory UV protection, nearly all plastic headlight lenses on cars can be polished back to New by only using 1500 grit wet n dry with light up and down, left and right movements, without pressing hard. Do not use rotary motion else you will induce swirl marks and these are harder to polish out. You only need a few passes until it glides. Then rinse, dry and inspect. Do the same again, this time using the 2000grit. Rinse, dry and inspect. When it feels baby skin smooth you just need 20 minutes with a DA and some cutting polish or Autoglym Super resin polish. Use a course small pad.
Then finish off with Autoglym SRP on a soft pad for 5 minutes. 
Buff and treat with wax. Honestly, they will be totally scratch free and look Brand new!!
I did two MK5 Golf lights. Took me 1.5 hrs and they were really, really badly cracked and damaged by UV.

All you need to do with your lights is gently rub 2000grit wet n dry on your lights for another 5 minutes, rinse, dry and then polish with a DA course pad for 20 minutes. Sorted!!


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Yep I learned a lot from this. Firstly I think I should have clayed the lenses to better see what I was really dealing with. And like you said it was the 120 grit that ultimately cost me MANY hours. By the time I got to the higher grits (above 1000) suddenly the time it took to get up to the next grit was 5 minutes instead of an hour !
For the second headlight - at least I now know what NOT to do ! (If I don't want to spend all those hours trying to get rid of the deep stone chips).
Like with anything - some good planning and preparation would have saved me a lot of grief. For example I would have bought some lens polish in advance, although I'm still not convinced there's anything special about such polishes. We shall see. Honestly though - a lot of things are only becoming apparent AFTER the experience. I may have been reluctant to try to remove the deep chips had I known how much work would be involved.
I am going to look into a more permanent sealant than wax though. Ideally something with UV protection like the gear that comes with the Quixx or TCut kits. And then I might even invest in some Lamin-X sheets.

Something I need to know is which pad is for what ???
I have an orange, a white and a black waffle pad - as well as lambswool. I seem to have already damaged two of them - probably from applying too much pressure.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

If you do go for lamin-x I had to hunt down a UK seller again. The previous web site I bought from appears to be an infinite loop of links with no products now.
I just bought some from funkmotorsport.com - two pieces that I *think* will cover the headlight perfectly with minimum waste. I'll wait until they arrive to confirm this though as it cost £54 for it!

BTW I bought two sheets of 18" x 12". I stuck some A4 sheets together and covered my headlight entirely with 18" x 11.75" paper to check first.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Cheers pug.

Ok for the second headlight I'm going to take a before picture :


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## Peeunit (May 22, 2013)

Ha ha ha, good luck with the second.... Maybe don't kick things off with 120 grit this time. lol


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Well, if you look at the before picture you'll see there are a lot of stone chips. You will never in a million years get rid of those with 2000 grit. (Well maybe in a million years and enough elbow grease !) Even after starting with 120 I never completely removed all of them on the first lens. I needed to go even deeper but when they're that white with sanding its impossible to see the chips.
Another issue is the internal scratches and streaks - caused by cleaning them. I had been warned but I still went ahead and now that the lenses are clearer I can really see those marks. 
The reality is that each lens needs assessing on its own - and mine are not a 5 minutes with a lens polish job.


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## Lollypop86 (Oct 26, 2013)

Well this was an interesting read and I've decided I'm sticking with the retro chip look 

J
xx


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

That's fine, the idea of a thread like this is to share the knowledge gained from the experience.
No experience is for everyone, and this is not for anyone short of time, materials and perseverance. Doing this job whilst the lights were still on the car would have been an even bigger nightmare. So I'd imagine most people would be happy just polishing their stone chipped lenses - rather than trying to completely refurbish them. You can also pay someone else to do the job - but I'm not sure they would completely remove deep stone chips either. It would take hours.
I'm waiting for some new fog lights to arrive so I'm in no hurry to put the lights back on the car.


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## Lollypop86 (Oct 26, 2013)

Knowing my luck I'd make it worse not better but if I did decide to go down this route then I'd probably come back to this thread 

J
xx


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

I've done both of mine recently, but only as an afterthought - kind of a 'what can I do to kill 45 minutes' at the end of an afternoon. I picked one lamp, then did the area in the inner top where there is only plastic behind, on the basis that it won't affect it come MOT beam test time. I started with 1000, then 1500, 2000, 2500 (all wet, frequently re-wetting), then Chrome polish and SRP, and the result was good enough to widen out and do a bit more. The end result is pretty good, so when I got a chance I did the other side. That was done much more quickly, and the results show it - although it's better than it started out, it needs doing again. Both were done on the car - apart from anything else, I though it was much easier than trying to hold the light cover somehow.

I haven't used power tools anywhere, a Dremel is way too fast for polishing plastic lenses in any case. Some compounds need to be used on a polisher because they're designed to be effective at certain temperatures, although I have a polisher I've never used it and wasn't about to test it out on these.

Looking at some of the "before" photos on here, though, my "after" shots are pretty similar. I wish I'd got a shot of how scummy my lights had gone before I started.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

I'd say to get the clearcoat off completely you need to start fairly low grit - like 400. As I've said a few times it depends on the condition of your clearcoat - mine is so pitted it has to come off. And trust me I'm reluctant as I know how much work is involved. But if a job is worth doing ....
The plastic polish didn't arrive today anyway - so I may as well get stuck in. Can't have 1 good lens and 1 pitted 1 !


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

2nd lens, 400 grit. Dry, so I think what you can see here (the different shades near the edges) is the area where the clearcoat has gone (middle), and where it's still there (edges).
Stone chips very much still visible at 400 grit. I won't be going as deep enough to try to remove them this time, as it added at least 4 more hours to the process and even then there was still evidence of them.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

800 grit : clearcoat gone but stone chips still there.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

1000 :


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

1500 :


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

2000 :
The milky look is partly due to me not cleaning the lens enough after sanding.









Next up : chrome polish, tcut, polarshine t10 with the DA


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## Eadon (Jan 31, 2014)

Nice work Stephen, and thanks for the thread.


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## Peeunit (May 22, 2013)

I think you're making more work for yourself by starting with even 400 grit mate.
start with 800 and plenty of lubrication.
You might take more time in actually getting the defects out to start with (probably twice as long) but you wont need to spend as long with the finishing stages up to 2500

Keeping the paper clean is essential. You get a piece of grit or glass between the lense and your paper and you're back to square one. Keep it well lubed up mate with some watery shampoo and spend a good amount of time with that 2000 and 2500 and you'll be fine. I did this on my fiesta before I sold it, and got a great finish out of it.... but in fairness the lenses on that werent as bad as the TT's are if yours are anything like mine.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Sure, yesterday when I did the first lens - I made all the mistakes you mentioned. Today though it's been easier as I had a plan and some experience. But to get past the clearcoat - I'm pretty sure 400 is the way to go. I actually started with 800 and it just wasn't budging, so I worked backwards. The clearcoat was so pitted it was easy to see when it was gone.
Like you say, I think yesterday I got some grit in towards the end and that ruined the final stages. Not today though !
And I'll go back to the other lens and correct it, even though it does look pretty good.


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## Peeunit (May 22, 2013)

Yeah, you learn as you go on, at least you've stuck at it mate.

They look good from your pictures.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Last one of the day, after a few passes with the da and some t10 polish.










Still some pitting on the outside which is disappointing. To remove them I'd have to go back to stage 1 ;,-( And the scratches on the inside are worse than whatever dust was there originally.
I'd hoped for better results but at the end of the day they look better than they did.
Main lessons :
Don't clean the insides of the lenses
Be prepared for a LOT of sanding for many hours if you have deep stone chips and want a perfect finish.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)




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## Paulj100 (Mar 24, 2009)

Good write up matey. All that hard work certainly paid off great results 8)

Paul


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## jamman (May 6, 2002)

When "was" did my DRLs he mentioned trying to not even get finger prints on the inside as the plastic is softer and impossible to clean.

I'm sorry i didnt realise you were going to try and do the inner otherwise I would have mentioned it


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## dextter (Oct 29, 2007)

Mate, I`ve just seen this thread, and after seeing the pics on the first page, I honestly thought you wouldn`t get these lenses back, and would end up binning them.....

With that in mind, I went straight to the last page, without reading what`s in between, and I`m so glad I was wrong, and you HAVE managed to get them back; so well-done for that mate, all credit to you.... 8)


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

On the one hand I feel like it was such an epic job - I never want to do it again. But on the other, if I was doing it again I'd make fewer mistakes.
I've wanted to smoke the corners for ages, so splitting the lights was inevitable. Unfortunately I was tempted to clean the inside of the lenses, and because the outsides were so pitted I couldn't see just how much I'd scratched them (or possibly smeared the dirt) until I'd polished the outsides. Of course by that time I'd resealed the units and wasn't keen to open them again :-/ I actually used roof and gutter sealant to put a bead around the gaps on the outside. I didn't want moisture getting in and ruining the lights any further !
I mentioned I was waiting for a plastic polish kit, but when the wrong product arrived today (their mistake) I decided to refit the lights and use the kit later on - with the lights on the car. I don't think they really need it, but I'd bought the stuff thinking it would give me the best finish - with the bonus of a sealant.


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

So hang on, the lenses start out covered with clearcoat? I _wondered_ what the stuff was on the outside of the plastic. But no-one seems to put any clearcoat back on after they've cleaned the lenses. Is that just so it doesn't do the same thing again in a few years?


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Good question. You can get "sealants" but I read somewhere that they don't protect much. At least with lamin-x you can remove and replace as often as necessary.


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## Cornwall (Apr 8, 2013)

Hi Stephen,

I take it that's what the problem is with mine the clear coat has had it.

Oh dear looks like I've a busy few days ahead of me.










Yet from the view head on they look OK


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Cornwall, mine look just like yours. During daytime they just look lightly scratched but at night like a snow-globe.
I have the 3M restoration kit here waiting so I might crack on with it this weekend if the weather holds.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Nearly done mine now. The 3m kit is OK but I've used some 1200 grit to get the original shine coat off. The 18x12" lamin-x fits perfectly. I'll post a few photos of this later.


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## cookbot (Apr 19, 2011)

I used an aircraft canopy repair kit as the screens are made of a similar plastic. The kit mainly contains a product called 'micromesh' which is amazing stuff to polish with. Think it goes down to about 12000 grade, still yet to actually put the time in with it though as it takes an age


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Pugwash69 said:


> Nearly done mine now. The 3m kit is OK but I've used some 1200 grit to get the original shine coat off. The 18x12" lamin-x fits perfectly. I'll post a few photos of this later.


Must've taken a while to remove the clear coat with 1200 ?


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Not too bad really! I had the milky white residue straight away. I used 1200 because I knew it wouldn't leave marks worse than the kit I had that started at 500.

Here's the 18x12" sheet by the way. No heat gun required applying it, just when sealing the edges.










And fully fitted. No need to shine your headlights up with plastic. 










BTW this is a 6% tint.


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

Ooh I'm liking that ! Tinted headlights, right up my cars colour-scheme-street ;-)
Stuff looks awesome


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## Volcom (Apr 24, 2014)

Pugwash69 said:


> Not too bad really! I had the milky white residue straight away. I used 1200 because I knew it wouldn't leave marks worse than the kit I had that started at 500.
> 
> Here's the 18x12" sheet by the way. No heat gun required applying it, just when sealing the edges.
> 
> ...


What is the stuff called on the lenses? Just want to take a look.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

lamin-x
It's available in various colours and tints. I have gunsmoke-tint on my rears too.
I bought from Funk Motorsport. They have a video on their facebook page too.
https://www.facebook.com/FunkMotorsport


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

Pugwash, please dont take this the wrong way but thats the first mod ive seen on yours that i want to copy! Looks ace mate.


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

You can't offend me 

I think you need black headlight inserts to pull this off though.


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

Pugwash69 said:


> You can't offend me
> 
> I think you need black headlight inserts to pull this off though.


I will be smoking the corners, and mine are the earlier dark lights


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## mullum (Sep 16, 2011)

As well as smoking the corners I highly recommend gloss black painting parts of the front end : the inserts (they look so much nicer glossed than they do in satin) and....
the lower grilles (why not, especially if you've got the bumper off).
You can get gloss black paint (and tinting spray) from Poundland ;-)


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## Nem (Feb 14, 2005)

That Lamin-X stuff looks awesome, I polished mine up earlier in the year but they've never come back up 100%.

Maybe with another good go at a high grade sanding and polish with some of this applied over them they will look great again.


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## bigcat (Apr 21, 2006)

That looks great, I have just done my side flashers so the headlights will match in nicely. I have Moro Blue so that should look even nicer. I will go for the 6% as you have.

Thanks a lot for your post, I did not even know this stuff existed.

Updated 20th May -

I went out yesterday after watching a couple of YouTube video about cleaning headlight glass and used some tooth paste. This worked a treat and now I have some very shiny head light covers. Never really believed it would work so was very surprised. Just to show how stupid I am I was thinking of trying it on scratch marks on my paintwork. I will try it on some bits I took off the car first to see results or whether it will damage the paint.


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## fixitagaintomoz (Apr 26, 2013)

mullum said:


> As well as smoking the corners I highly recommend gloss black painting parts of the front end : the inserts (they look so much nicer glossed than they do in satin) and....
> the lower grilles (why not, especially if you've got the bumper off).
> You can get gloss black paint (and tinting spray) from Poundland ;-)


Ive used cheap tint spray before, and regretted it, so i'll get some slightly better stuff this time round i think. i was going to to gloss black, but have also considered anthracite fot the grill inserts, as my wheels will be anthracite aswell as the roof....hmmm we shall see what happens


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## Pugwash69 (Jun 12, 2012)

Nem said:


> That Lamin-X stuff looks awesome


It takes a bit to get bubbles out but it pulls off and reapplies fine. The videos of it show them doing this. It stretches around the shapes nicely even without heating but do it on a warm day with no wind! 
I've said this before but avoid the pre-cut shapes. You need to put the sheet on from the centre and stick it down working outwards. I bought pre-cut shapes when I did my rear lenses and regret it, as they didn't go on perfectly due to having to line up the shape so accurately. It's much easier to buy a sheet and cut it once applied.

My car and my wife's passed the MOT with 15% "gunsmoke" tint on the rear but I've only put 6% tint on the front. Clear sheets are available.


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