# My Audi tt mods T.M.T.L. (too many to list) *PIC HEAVY*



## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

The wait was finally over today my Black SFS TIP (TURBO INTAKE PIPE) arrived can't believe how big it is  
















Hopefully if the rain holds off I will be fitting this tomorrow morning


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## L0z (Sep 8, 2011)

My my, what an awfully large pipe you have...

Are you being served?


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## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

Looks like the wrong one to me...............  ............ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

merlin c said:


> Looks like the wrong one to me...............  ............ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


 Not you as well Merlin :roll: the cupra type "r" is the same as the 225 audi tt BAM  been there got the "TT" shirt :wink:


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## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

Nick 225TT said:


> merlin c said:
> 
> 
> > Looks like the wrong one to me...............  ............ [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
> ...


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

merlin c said:


> Nick 225TT said:
> 
> 
> > merlin c said:
> ...


Got a cold side diverter kit on the way too so may wait for that before I fit this

yes it IS the right one Merlin


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Such a nice morning decided to get on with the fitting  
Got a range of clips and a 7mm driver








First disconnect the maf and n75 care with this as they are easy to break and £40 to replace
















Next remove the air box
















This gives loads of room to get at the old tip I then cut the bands holding
the n75 waste gate actuator pipe in place








and finally its out after removing the bottom hose clip
Comparing the two side by side








Now I actually get to see my turbo for the first time ever  
































Gave the area a bit of a clean with degreaser before I put the new tip on
But when I put the SFS tip in place I noticed the gear shifter cable bracket
Had a very sharp edge quite close to the wall of the pipe  








so I split a short bit of plastic tubing and stuck it in place with glue to protect the edge








put all the clips on it in the right place








and then made certain the lowest clip was the correct distance from the edge and nipped it up








that's it all done

















Finally got rid of the horrble clips  









Overall the job was quite easy much simpler than I thought it would be
as there is quite good accessibility once you get the air box out of the way :mrgreen:

and the pipe was a good fit as its a cupra type "R" one and mines a 225 bam

Next job is the cold side diverter kit hopefully that will arrive before the rain comes back :?


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Just went for a quick drive and I AM impressed tubo does spool up quicker car pulls better
and you can hear the dump valve more with the windows open kinda addictive to
slow down and speed up again so you can get to hear it more :mrgreen: 
it was worth doing I think


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## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

nice pics, always helpful for someone else Nick...


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## Vrroom (Oct 8, 2011)

merlin c said:


> nice pics, always helpful for someone else Nick...


+1 Agreed. Thanks for taking the time to document and photograph Nick. I always learn from and enjoy looking at posts like this. Looks great too! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Great post and as always the pics speak a thousand words [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Now a very SFQ from me    
What is the purpose of changing this pipe?


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

great post and pics/text. Mine (forge)is on order and hopefully will arrive in the next few days. I'll have this howto handy for the install.

what did you use to snip the oem clips? basic wire snips?

cheers.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

just a pair of wire cutters they are only soft alloy no challenge
the purpose of fitting it was to improve turbo spool up time by allowing better ventilation and i have now driven car more and can say it IS better


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## warrenstuart (Mar 3, 2010)

Nick 225TT said:


> the purpose of fitting it was to improve turbo spool up time by allowing better ventilation and i have now driven car more and can say it IS better


Brill, just wondered, thanks


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## L0z (Sep 8, 2011)

Awesome write up mate.

But from the looks of your air box...more holes are needed!


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## TTSPORT666 (Dec 1, 2011)

Great write up brother..got me interested in one of these bad boys... 

Damien.


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

L0z said:


> Awesome write up mate.
> 
> But from the looks of your air box...more holes are needed!


Ain't that the truth? But then, I would say that... :roll:


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

L0z said:


> Awesome write up mate.
> 
> But from the looks of your air box...more holes are needed!


I did follow the original WAKBOX formula but I could drill more no problem :mrgreen: 
I will do that when I do my next install the cold side relocation kit watch this space
as soon as it arrives I will be fitting it and will of corse do a photo session at the same time 
as I know you guys like photos :wink: 
I even put a light coating of grease on the forge dv so its easy to 
remove in preperation for the CSRK [smiley=idea.gif]


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## TTSPORT666 (Dec 1, 2011)

Wak box.....old news...  "Mondo box" is this years revelation.... 

Damien.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

TTSPORT666 said:


> Wak box.....old news...  "Mondo box" is this years revelation....
> 
> Damien.


What's that please spill [smiley=argue.gif]


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## merlin c (Jan 25, 2012)

Nick 225TT said:


> TTSPORT666 said:
> 
> 
> > Wak box.....old news...  "Mondo box" is this years revelation....
> ...


Here you go Nick...viewtopic.php?f=2&t=282529&p=2324354&hilit=air+filters#p2324354


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## oldguy (Jun 25, 2009)

Nick,

Did the SFS need any trimming at all ?

thanks

OG


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## kazinak (Mar 23, 2010)

oldguy said:


> Nick,
> 
> Did the SFS need any trimming at all ?
> 
> ...


No, it fits like a glove even whit the standard airbox

Send from my Android using Tapatalk 2


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

merlin c said:


> Nick 225TT said:
> 
> 
> > TTSPORT666 said:
> ...


I am quite happy with My K&N panel filter so I think I will make do with just putting some more holes my lower airbox
dont think I would notice much if any change going from a k&n pannel to a cone anyway 
the CSRK has not a arrived yet so I will have a go at that lower airbox now  pictures to follow shortley watch this space


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

oldguy said:


> Nick,
> 
> Did the SFS need any trimming at all ?
> 
> ...


No trimming at all I ordered a cupra type r one as they have a 225 bam engine fitted
I think they may be slight changes to the pipe locations on the apx and left hand drive variants 
But I don't know for certain :?:


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## TTSPORT666 (Dec 1, 2011)

Yes i think your right Nick, the apx and later cars don't seem to be listed for this huge fat beasty. Something about the fact if you have esp on the later engines it will not fit!  Will have to be the standard samco or forge for my qs... Or if anyone knows otherwise? :?

Damien.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Anyway I have now TOTALY derestricted the lower air box but it still looks OEM =)
Started by taking the box out again










Then clamped it in a workmate to hold it stable










Sorted out a selection of hole cutters










Then cut out some holes










Then some more










Then a few more










Then cut the entire bottom out










Cleaned up the rough edges with a dremel and sandpaper










Here is a view from underneath










And with the lower box frame in place










And with the k&n in place










and not forgetting to reconect the MAF and SFS intake










that's it all back in place










Totally stock look










The remains of the bottom of the air box


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## L0z (Sep 8, 2011)

That's more like it matey!

Impressed you took action upon my words so swiftly!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

L0z said:


> That's more like it matey!
> 
> Impressed you took action upon my words so swiftly!


it was free to do so why not 8)

I has added some to the induction roar and the turbo boost is amazing after 3000 rpm it just takes off
you need to change up pretty quick :mrgreen: 
I am hoping to get my cold side relocation kit early next week and will do a full install with photos session for all you guys/girls when I get it :wink:


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## L0z (Sep 8, 2011)

Nick 225TT said:


> it was free to do so why not 8)
> 
> I has added some to the induction roar and the turbo boost is amazing after 3000 rpm it just takes off
> you need to change up pretty quick :mrgreen:
> I am hoping to get my cold side relocation kit early next week and will do a full install with photos session for all you guys/girls when I get it :wink:


Awesome mate, look forward to the write up!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

TTSPORT666 said:


> Yes i think your right Nick, the apx and later cars don't seem to be listed for this huge fat beasty. Something about the fact if you have esp on the later engines it will not fit!  Will have to be the standard samco or forge for my qs... Or if anyone knows otherwise? :?
> 
> Damien.


I think Badger S does a FATBOY for the apx series of engine so you are covered


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## oldguy (Jun 25, 2009)

Nick 225TT said:


> L0z said:
> 
> 
> > That's more like it matey!
> ...


Nick,

Other than the DV, the K&N, the Wakbox, and the 3" TIP is your engine totally stock? Exhaust, remap?

Do these few simple mods make that much of a difference on perofrmance?

thanks


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Ha, nice! Not sure about 'totally OEM look' with the 'STOP!' and 'permanent filter inside' stickers, but I know what you mean. 

And looks like we have a new airbox king. Say goodbye to the Wakbox and Mondobox; enter the *NIKBOX*!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

oldguy said:


> Nick 225TT said:
> 
> 
> > L0z said:
> ...


its stock apart from those items I was planning a stage
1 remap at some point in the future ; )
the forge valve k&n and SfS pipe have made the engine more responsive 
by how much it difficult to say as its never been dyno tested so I dont know


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## matt2012 (Nov 15, 2011)

hmm, this has given me ideas. 
I'm just not brave enough to cut my airbox, so I'm on the look out for a wak box to mod.


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

L0z said:


> Awesome write up mate.
> 
> But from the looks of your air box...more holes are needed!


It provides more noise. Might as well cut holes in the roof...same benefit. :wink:

cheers


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Anyway on with the mods 

My forge cold side diverter kit arrived today =)










This is what's in the bag










Started fitting by taking the battery cover off










then the battery out take off the "-" cable first










Then took the battery out and used a luggage strap to hold the battery top plate out of the way










Then carefully pulled the wires out from the throttle input pipe










And moved the cable out of the way










Then removed the cable bands off the old pipe










And stretched them onto the new one










Then put the new pipe in place and pushed the cable back into the rubber clips










Next I moved the forge dv valve onto the pipe but cut a little off first so it sits a little lower










Next I removed the original hot side feed pipe !










And then blanked off the hot side charge pipe with the alloy bung and bit of
Short pipe I had cut off the other one










Next I needed to remove the clip from the top pipe of the n249 valve that controls the dump valve










I peeled the clip off with small wire cutters be carefull as the 249 valve is hard plastic and can break :!:










And fitted the new pipe to it this came in the kit and is quite stretchy so went on OK










And the other end goes to the dump valve










Next cut down the straight pipe and fitted the elbow into the SFS tip and to the forge dvo6 dump valve










Then put the battery back in connecting "+" first










Then put all the covers back on










And finally I glued a rubber disk to the battery cover to stop the dump valve moving about too much



















that's it all done took for a drive and its all good you can hear the dump valve

Working a bit louder than before and the throttle response is better :mrgreen:


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Nice, Nick.  Minor tweak; I'd hide the hose coming out the front of the DV under the one coming off the throttle body. Just cut that zip-tie, move the little DV hose underneath the TB one and zip-tie it up again. Just tidies it a little.

Well done.


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

Smashing! I've now bookmarked so I can use when I do mine next month.

cheers.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Mondo said:


> Nice, Nick.  Minor tweak; I'd hide the hose coming out the front of the DV under the one coming off the throttle body. Just cut that zip-tie, move the little DV hose underneath the TB one and zip-tie it up again. Just tidies it a little.
> 
> Well done.


Hey Mondo Like this you mean :mrgreen:


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Not quite, but that works too. I meant like this:









Not the best - nor most recent - bay pic, but you get the idea.

Your way works too. Looks tidy. Well done. 

PS: Not that it matters, but your DV sticks a lot further forward than mine. Doubt it matters a jot.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Just the way my forge pipe is like you say I dont think it matters much :wink:
I wanted it a far forward as possible anyway as that part of the engine bay is
cooler !
If you go for a drive no you can actualy hold the dump valve after 
but before in its original location it would burn your hand :wink:


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## paul4281 (Jan 25, 2010)

Great write up & pictures, want to do both of these mods. Can you feel or hear any difference afterwards?

Sent from paul4281's iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Yep can hear feel some difference

If you are going to cut your airbox out wait

till you have a k&n panel filter first :wink:

This is the first mod to do and yes you hear

A massive difference when you do this :mrgreen:


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## johndtt (Apr 4, 2012)

TTSPORT666 said:


> Wak box.....old news...  "Mondo box" is this years revelation....
> 
> Damien.


Just a quick question.....why don't folk fit proper airboxes or provide more cold feeds to the standard one?

Just never seen the point of sucking in engine bay heat when you want to keep your IAT's as low as poss.

John


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

johndtt said:


> TTSPORT666 said:
> 
> 
> > Wak box.....old news...  "Mondo box" is this years revelation....
> ...


You can WAK has see his page on this .......

http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/ramair/cheapinduction.htm

in any case its cold and wet most of the time this is england dont forget :-| 
so I dont think its such a problem


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Next mod is going to be a debaffled charge pipe in matt black 
As it seems matt black radiates heat better than polished as i 
want the heat to radiate away from the pipe :wink: 
http://www.gcsescience.com/pen10-matt-black.htm
I could never understand why people polish charge pipes as you want it to lose heat right !
Found a s/h charge pipe on eBay for £35 delivered 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110919896107
so when it arrives I will mod it got my inspiration here :mrgreen: 
http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=224331


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

Nick 225TT said:


> As it seems matt black radiates heat better than polished :wink:
> 
> I could never understand why people polish charge pipes as you want it to lose heat right !


The difference between polished and black is probably negligible and may actually favor polished. From back in the day at school, we learned that black is the perfect emitter and the perfect absorber. So, yes black radiates better than non-black, but it also absorbs heat much more than non-black. In the case of the charger pipe, the radiation properties of the metal is probably the most important factor, not color.

Just my 2p.

cheers


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

fair comment but I think a matt black one will look better 
and the stupid baffle is definitely going 

I actually want to hear my turbo Audi :mrgreen:


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## kazinak (Mar 23, 2010)

mat black is way better than polished


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

Nick 225TT said:


> ...I think a matt black one will look better
> also and the stupid baffle is definitely going


True ^^^.

cheers


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## johndtt (Apr 4, 2012)

Don't leave a step in the charge pipe or you may actually cause a flow restriction. Put a conical tapered pipe in there and you will actually speed up the flow. Fluid dynamics n all that!

John


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Good idea it was metioned on the supra forum post I think
that's why I got another pipe to play with as my tt is also my daly drive ; )


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

The charge pipe has not showed up yet ebay seller has marked it as despached 
this is the ebay item picture looks like the paint allready been stripped 
saves me a job as I will be spraying it matt black  
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110919896107








when it does show I will be doing another fitting guide 
with photos post here watch this space :mrgreen:


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

My eBay baffled pipe arrived today in the late post 

HAMMER TIME :mrgreen:

Looks OK someone has already removed most of the silver paint for me









Looking at the baffle itself it looks quite restricting
























First I mounted it the workmate it has wooden jaws so won't damage the pipe








Then drilled holes through the baffle on opposite sides








Then put a hole saw down it
















Quite a bit of metal came out








I then resorted to the hammer and big screwdriver
















The baffle eventually caved in
















And fell out of the bottom








Then I pushed a rag in and dragged it trough to remove the bulk of the metal debris
















Then washed out the pipe with brake cleaner spray and clean rags till no more debris was evident








Finally rubbed down with 240 emery cloth to key for the matt black paint
And wiped down with thinners to remove any grease deposits ready for painting
But that's enough for today








................


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Anyway on with the show
Decided to try and reduce the famous dent








Heated with a blow lamp first








Till bright red








Then pushed a bit of steel pipe down it mounted in a vice and 
Hammered it out a bit much less of a dent now








Then hung it up for painting after letting it cool and giving another clean with thinners








Then gave it a quick spray over with the High heat paint








Whist it was drying decided to take my standard charge pipe out








Covers off first








Then the two clips 13mm hex nut on them both
























Gave them a good clean with thinners








And sprayed them and the pipe bung transferred from the other one black also








Next lifted out the standard charge pipe








Then by this time the other one was just about ok to touch and drop in








That's it derestricted charge pipe fitted


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Vacuum leak discovered today
I got one of those silicone pipes from eBay to fit today








That goes here








Took the turbo pipe off so I could see it better








I cut all the clips off and removed it but in the process discovered the pipe 
under the inlet manifold it leads to had split where it joins the "T" valve both sides  








So I cut off the split parts warmed the pipe up and pushed them both back on








Then bound the entire part with silicone self amalgamating tape








Then put it all back on just in time as it started raining again 








Drove the car seems ok and the brakes work better now they are getting full servo!


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

On with the show
Got a new forge 3 way pipe today








Took the engine cover off to see its location








And then put it in place easy to fit








Old one was rotting from the inside out had gone a squidgy and full of black muck








New one in its new home








Engine cover back on all done 10 minutes total








Next will be 20 mm wheel spacers all round =) watch this space


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Noticed today that the coolant run on pump was not making a sound when the ignition is turned off :? 
so I connected a volt meter and it is getting 12v for 10mins after ignition off so its not the controler :wink: 
















So took the plastic trims off








So I could get at the pump








loosened the collant cap to release any pressure








and undone the 2 screws that hold the pump in place








The pump then just lifted out . Then used long nosed pliers to move the clips back








And got the pump out then drilled out the 2 pop rivets holding the bracket on and took the end of the pump








The impeller rotated ok so I unclipped the motor end and cleaned inside motor with switch cleaner then tied the brushes back with cotton and then put the end back on re crimped it and connected the pump back up and it now works =) Wrapped the pump body in sicone tape and bolted it back in








It now has the familiar whirring sound when the ignition is off for 10 minutes showing its doing its job =) :mrgreen:


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Got my 4off 20mm wheel spacers this morning =)
Here is the before photos
















































First one fitted simplicity itself to fit
[]








I replaced the disk screws with s/s item's on each wheel as I went
As I will be fitting drilled/slotted disks later when these wear out








I also checked that the original wheel bolts did not go through the spacer too far before fitting but they are just perfect in my case around 19mm of thread going in =)

















Cleaned up the mating surfaces too an all the disks with a brass wire brush on a drill to ensure no rust deposits to make them run untrue








Then bolted them down to 120nm followed by the wheel nuts and lockers








Always use stands when working under your car !








First one fitted
















Will let the photos do the talking =)

























































































































































Phew that was a lot of photos to upload =)


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Today I Replaced my front drop links as they arrived in the post  








They look totally OEM German made SWAG.DE 
Thought it was going to be an easy job  
but Lower right nut was very tight had to resort to a blowlamp to heat the nut up
No turning back now that one fell apart from the heat :-| 
















Comparing old to new they look almost identical note the longer thread goes at the top
new ones had 19mm hex nylocks rather than the original 18mm ones








New one in place driver's side








New one in place passenger side (UK)
Passenger side came off easy thankfully 
















That's it all done wheel tightened back up Just beat the rain =)


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Today I serviced my forge DV006 DUMP VALVE  it's been on the car over a year and never been apart








Started by taking it apart has 4mm alan key s/s cap screws x 6 looks like mine has the standard blue spring








Then carefully picking out the two "O" seals with a non metallic instrument (fingernail)








Degreased and polished the "O" seals running areas and the seat and face areas








Put back together with clean synthetic grease
















And fitted back on car easy job
Notice in this photo I have upgraded the dv vacuum pipe with high quality fuel line as I was not happy with the thin
Pipe that came with the forge relocation kit


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

TODAY I ..
Fitted my new POWERFLEX RED TDI DOGBONE BUSH and new bolts  








Started by jacking the car up high and putting it on two stands on the front sub frame








Then removed the engine under tray (noticed its covered in oil cam cover oil leak IS the culprit fixed in a later post)








Then you can see the dogbone mount location








Next removed the rear small bolts 13mm socket








Then placed a trolley jack under the gearbox and raised it till it just moved the gearbox








Then removed the two larger bolts 16mm socket and the mount just pulled out








Original mount with old rubbers in








Then put it in a small vice to remove the long bolt








Dogbone taken apart








Evidence of rubbing inside the alloy casing








I removed all traces of the old rubber with a brass wire brush on a drill








Then used thinners to remove the final traces
Comparing the old and new parts








Put a thin layer of the supplied copper grease / lube on all contact areas








Put the parts together by pressing on the garage door frame to get the bolt to start








Then torque down to 55nm as recommended








New dogbone with new bushes in ready to fit








Then bolted in place 2 small bolts first torque to 20nm then 90 degrees








Then the two lower bolts torque to 40nm then 90 degrees








Finally put the engine under tray back on job done








Test drove the car out and yes it feels better tighter and gear changes are smother
There is a slight vibration of the wheel at tick over but this is minor and the benefits outweigh this
There is a running in period so they should settle down after time


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## Duggy (May 17, 2005)

All looking good Nick

I will have to keep an eye open for you, as I'm only in Malvern and spend drive through Worcester daily


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

You might I drive into worcester city every day on my way to work you never know :wink:


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## kw_maher (Jan 6, 2009)

Dude... Is that a crack on your wheel? :-o


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Nothing to worry about Kevin just a paint run I had spilled some black paint whilst doing the calipers the other day 
Well spotted though


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## toy4two (Jan 29, 2012)

looks great, I'm following your thread.

One thing I noticed is your valve cover is leaking. The pic of your tip install showing the top of your gear box is covered with oil, not to mention some on the belly pan, and a little all over the bottom of the engine. I just fixed the same issue on my car.

Shine a flash light on the right concave area and I'll bet you'll see where its leaking. Easy fix, remember to put the gasket maker in that area on both top and bottom of gasket, that's a Blauparts tip you won't find in a Bentley.


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## toy4two (Jan 29, 2012)

looks great, I'm following your thread.

One thing I noticed is your valve cover is leaking. The pic of your tip install showing the top of your gear box is covered with oil, not to mention some on the belly pan, and a little all over the bottom of the engine. I just fixed the same issue on my car.

Shine a flash light on the right concave area and I'll bet you'll see where its leaking. Easy fix, remember to put the gasket maker in that area on both top and bottom of gasket, that's a Blauparts tip you won't find in a Bentley.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

toy4two said:


> looks great, I'm following your thread.
> 
> One thing I noticed is your valve cover is leaking. The pic of your tip install showing the top of your gear box is covered with oil, not to mention some on the belly pan, and a little all over the bottom of the engine. I just fixed the same issue on my car.
> 
> Shine a flash light on the right concave area and I'll bet you'll see where its leaking. Easy fix, remember to put the gasket maker in that area on both top and bottom of gasket, that's a Blauparts tip you won't find in a Bentley.


I am aware of the leak and am thinking about replacing it and will do a full post with photos when I get round to it :mrgreen:

I have now ordered the new rocker cover gaskets and will get round to fitting them shortley :wink:

update I now have the gasket set & selant will try and fit tomorrow  RAIN pending :?










Under £18 for both from gsf


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Ok today its replace rocker cover gasket time
Continued oil usage and a oil soaked under tray points to a leak at the back of the engine cam cover








First the charge pipe has to come off








Then remove the clip at the top of the charge pipe bracket to expose the two green screws these hold the bracket in place








Next plug the two pipes with spray can lids you do not want ANY chance of anything dropping in

















Then remove the oil filler extension and put the oil filler cap back back on to stop anything dropping in at this stage








then unplug the n75 valve electrical plug and remove the coil pack earth point bolt








Then slide the pipes and wires off the bracket and remove the vacuum canister








Then remove the bracket this exposed the coil packs
And there wiring heat shield








Unplug the coil packs and pull them out








I marked mine 1 to 4 before removing them








Next remove the four star drive button screws that hold the charge pipe heat sheld in place 








Then remove the 9 six mm nuts that hold the cam cover in place








Work from the outside in a bit at a time








Before I lifted the cam cover I took a photo showing oil leakage evidence on the heat shield








Next remove the two clips at the cam belt end move the plastic guard back and lift the cam cover off








This is the first time I had seen my cams they both look good for an engine with 80k on it regular oil changes pay =)
































The inside of the cover has a thick black layer on it though








The cam chain at the other end is in good nick too








More evidence of oil leaking from the cam cover








Gave the cover a good clean with petrol and wire brush








Cleaned the all mating surfaces with wd40 and clean rags








and very fine emery and wd 40 on the stubborn bits








cover ready to fit back on








But before fitting I poured a layer of clean engine oil on all the cam lobes








Put a thin layer of high temp silicone sealer on all surfaces and pushed the cover in place did all the bolts up starting from the centre to 7ft pounds








Fitted the breather pipe first








Then the coil wire bracket a bit of blue tack in the socket helped to locate the bolt








Then rested the coil pack plugs on the head








and fitted the charge pipe heat shield








And moved the coil pack plugs back in place and connected the coil pack earth bolt
plugged the coil packs back in and fitted the wire vacuum chamber bracket








bolted on the vacuum chamber and charge pipe bracket back on








and reffited the n75 valve and pipes back in place








fitted the charge pipe back on and double checked all the pipes and plugs were in the right place








last was fit the oil filler tube and start the car with no problems started straight away =)









last two covers on thats it hope this cures my heavy oil usage =)


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## Mondo (Feb 20, 2009)

Well done, Nick. I'll be reviewing this once I've pulled finger and relocated my N75 before fitting my new (to me) VHT wrinkle black cam cover.


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

I was going to spray mine black but I need the car working tonight  
so could not be bothered in the end as I dont have the time ATM


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## Nick 225TT (Jun 6, 2008)

Just a quick update looks like the camcover oil leak has fixed the oil usage issue  
5 days have passed and oil level on stick is rock solid and no drips on the drive 8) 
before it would drop halfway in a week :? 
Sadly My better half got a speeding ticket for 37mph 
it was a mobile van near our house grrr ... :evil:


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