# Roadster Drain Tubes / Pipes How To



## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

I spent literally days searching for this info to find a way of changing them without either taking the roof off or paying ££££s to Audi.

I haven't done this yet but will be tackling it the week after next after our holiday.

Hopefully posting this link here http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=294272&start=15 will help other people find it!


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

What about making it a sticky mods :idea:


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

That sounds like a plan.
When we do it I'll try and take some photos of our efforts too.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

Picked up the new pipes today. £58 for the pair from TPS. They come complete with the rubber grommets at the wheel arch end all as 1 single part. The part number is: 8N7 825 597 C (8N7825597C). I think they also have an "S" prefix which the guy told me meant that this part has superseded the original part. (Part numbers 8N7825597A / 8N7825597B and 8N7825599 all showed up when I was searching).

They look like they've changed the design from the original, no flimsy plastic outer. They are a neoprene/foam tube with a spring coil running the whole length, presumably to keep their shape. The spring also probably helps to collect debris and muck inside the tube and stop it running out the bottom :roll: It still doesn't feel like the strongest material so will still have to be very careful when unblocking them.

I plan to heat shrink them before installing to help protect them and incase the foam ever gets punctured.





We're away on holiday soon and won't be tackling this until the first week of March, so won't be on this thread too much until then.


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## DolomiteGreyTT (Jan 17, 2012)

I just saw your PM, good luck Phil! 8)


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## shell (Feb 1, 2008)

Need to have a go at mine again, I have a sopping floor


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

YELLOW_TT said:


> What about making it a sticky mods :idea:


Hi, Done. 8) 
Hoggy.


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

If possible, and if it's not too late, any chance you can take some dimensions from those tubes - inner and outer diameter and length? Call me cheap, but £55-odd for two lengths of rubber hose is a bit on the steep side. Would be nice to have an idea of the size before I take the car to bits.


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## YELLOW_TT (Feb 25, 2004)

Hoggy said:


> YELLOW_TT said:
> 
> 
> > What about making it a sticky mods :idea:
> ...


Cheers


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

Right I've finally got a chance to sit down on the computer and put some photos up and a quick description of what we did.

First of all here are some pics of the new tubes which hopefully show the dimensions reasonably well:

Tube length. From tip to tip



Inlet size



Outlet





Diameter


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

The tubes are made from some kind of foam/rubber/neoprene material. There is still a spring down the middle but they don't have a thin plastic outer on the them.

This is the state of the tubes we took out:



The passenger side was completely trashed all the way along it's length and bits of it were broken up and had parted from the rest of the tube. The drivers side was in better condition but the the foam had broken up and the plastic outer was perforated in a lot of places along its length.

New tubes



We bought heat shrink wrap to cover the tubes in for extra protection, but it was quite heavy duty so decided not to use it as it would have made the tubes too rigid and difficult to poke through the holes in the wheel arches.


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## nott (Apr 6, 2013)

How did it go fitting them ?

How long and how difficult was it ?


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

First of all jack up the car and take the wheel off. Use an axle stand.



Unscrew all the torx screws holding the wheel arch liner on.


(this one was a bit awkward to get started).

Arch liner off:



And you can see the outlet at the bottom of the arch:



We pulled the bung out and some of the tube came with it, the rest was left behind.

Pulling this bung out, a bit higher up the arch, means you can shine a torch and peek inside to see your hoses:



This is looking through the hole. (Pic taken at end once hose had been replaced).


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

nott said:


> How did it go fitting them ?
> 
> How long and how difficult was it ?


The actual fitting took about 10 minutes once we'd stripped enough of the car apart to get access. I wasn't able to get my hands in there, luckily Laura has smaller hands and bendier wrists. She was able to get her hand in and reach bottom of the drip tray to connect the hose on directly while I looked through the top hole in the arch and guided her onto it.


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

Hamish was helping us



But his paws were too big to fit in the gaps, so he had a snooze instead



Bits that had to come off.

The passenger seat was already out & carpet lifted. Under the seat is 2 plugs, if you unplug them and turn on the ignition you will throw up the airbag light. We had to move the car so had to reset the light afterwards with the scanner/VCDS. The drivers side we did without removing the seat.

- First carefully prise out the speaker grill. Be careful as it's quite flimsy, ours was already cracked from someone's previous effort. You can see the carpet lifted in the bottom of the pic where we were drying it out and also the seatbelt bottom mounting is undone, again this was to get at the carpet.



This is the part number, I was going to get another one but once it's fitted you can't see the crack at all.



- Unscrew the 4 screws around the sub woofer.

- The centre panel then "just" pulls off. It's quite difficult to get out and took a look of pulling and levering. If you use a big screwdriver put something either side of it to protect the plastic.

- Pull of the large panel from behind the seat. If you turn the collars on the roll bar they unclip and then lift up, this allows a bit of movement on the top panel (which doesn't have to come out). Starting at the bottom of the panel pull it towards you and unclip all the metal clips, once the panel is free from the bulkhead pull it downwards away from the top plastic panel.

This is what you should see



- Next take out the seatbelt reel & speaker. The speaker needs removing from its mounting bracket then the bracket just unscrews with 3 torx screws.
The seatbelt has a 17mm bolt, then the reel lifts up slightly to disengage from the "T" shape slot, push it back in away from it's mounting panel then pull it forward and out of the way. There is a small yellow plug that just pulls off the side.
This square hole where the seat belt was is where you need to get your hand in to get access to the tubes.



- We found the cubby hole liner was in the way of where you wanted to have your elbow when poking your arm in through the hole to reach at the tubes. To get the cubby box free there is a torx screw and 2 grey plastic plugs which just prise out, take them out.
Then unscrew the subwoofer and pull it forward out of the way.



This allowed the cubby box to be moved around out the way, it wouldn't actually come out without removing the bracket that the sub mounts to, but we got enough movement to get access.


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

Now there are no real photos of how to actually change the hoses as it's all hidden behind panels and done by feel.

What we did was reach in through the seatbelt reel hole and there is another small hole you should be able to get your hand through. Reach up towards where the drip tray is and you should hopefully feel the hose. Pull it off the drip tray than pull it out through the wheel arch hole.

Laura then reached in down towards the arch outlet hole and I poked the new hose in the hole. She managed to grab it then as I pushed it in she guided it up towards the drip tray. She then changed hands and grabbed the pipe (I think with her left hand for the passenger side) while bending at a very awkward angle and managed to reach up close to the drip tray. I looked through the top arch hole using a torch and guided her to connect the hose to the drip tray.

The theory of this bit is very simple, it's just very awkward angles that you have to bend your arms in to get to it. It resulted in a bit of swearing when the pipe got dropped a couple of times and quite a few scratches up her arms. Once the top is connected outlet of the pipe simply needs pushing into the hole in the arch.

Put everything back together, smile briefly at your triumph then start on the other side!

Sorry it's badly written but I hope it makes sense and helps. Let me know any questions and I'll try to answer


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Many thanks for the detailed photos and measurements Phil. I will have a go at this, but not until I get the other car on the road for summer, I think it might be a longer-than-a-single-afternoon job.


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

could this go into the knowledge base section as it will be a shame to lose it after the op has done a really good guide.


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Good point. There's already a sticky thread on the matter, so I've just added a link from that one into here.


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## John Stratton (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks for adding the link on the other sticky. I am sure it will be used and really appreciated by many roadster owners.


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

I am so glad you posted this! Thanks


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

bobdabuilda said:


> I am so glad you posted this! Thanks


You got soggy floors too 

I'm pleased to report that the floors are still dry  The car lives outside in Glasgow so has had some proper testing!


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

Yep soggy floors due to the rubbish original fit tubes! Just been tackling the passenger side as you showed in the pictures- getting the big panel off was ok apart from breaking a clip holder on the top right hand side just below the seatbelt. Going to repair it with some sugru and it'll be fine.

I'm hanging back on removing the speaker & seatbelt cassette as my little daughter can reach in through that quadrangular hole on the side and feed the new pipe through, will have to see if she can manage to secure it at the drip tray tomorrow as rain has stopped play today. Can I ask if the drivers side is much different? I'm guessing you removed the speaker & seatbelt cassette there too?

A tip for others tackling this- use an electricians cable feeder rod set to feed the new pipe through from the wheelarch end up into the car to attach to the drip tray outlet (feed the cable rod into the drip tray and down into the arch first - whichever is easiest for you) I used a similar set to this but much cheaper from amazon or the cheap tool outlets










Its much easier than using string!


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

bobdabuilda said:


> Yep soggy floors due to the rubbish original fit tubes! Just been tackling the passenger side as you showed in the pictures- getting the big panel off was ok apart from breaking a clip holder on the top right hand side just below the seatbelt. Going to repair it with some sugru and it'll be fine.
> 
> I'm hanging back on removing the speaker & seatbelt cassette as my little daughter can reach in through that quadrangular hole on the side and feed the new pipe through, will have to see if she can manage to secure it at the drip tray tomorrow as rain has stopped play today. Can I ask if the drivers side is much different? I'm guessing you removed the speaker & seatbelt cassette there too?
> 
> ...


If your daughter can get her arm in, you can look through the hole in the arch with a torch and guide her onto the tray, that's what I did 

The driver's side is pretty much the exactly the same, the storage compartment is a slightly different shape but that's all. We didn't even remove the drivers seat, only the passenger seat as it was out anyway for drying the carpet.

My Dad happened to have a big cable feeder on a roll from work, but we didn't end up using it.

(Just realised my photos aren't working as my photobucket account is maxxed out - Grrr!)


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

The hole in the arch is the place she got her hand through  , but she is only ickle!


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

bobdabuilda said:


> The hole in the arch is the place she got her hand through, but she is only ickle!


Unless she's got really really really wee hands we're talking about something different! Once you take the arch liner off you see the outlet hole for the tubes, about a foot(ish) above that hole is another about the same size with a rubber bung in it. Pull the bung out and you can shine a torch in there and peek in.


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

Sorry my mistake- not the arch access point but the small hole on the far right side of this picture where you can access into the arch from inside the car http://smg.photobucket.com/user/phil555 ... 1.jpg.html


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

bobdabuilda said:


> Sorry my mistake- not the arch access point but the small hole on the far right side of this picture where you can access into the arch from inside the car http://smg.photobucket.com/user/phil555 ... 1.jpg.html


Ah yeah, we couldn't get our arms in there at all!


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

You get a great view of the connection point to the tray through it. I was hoping my wife could get her hand in but no chance hence why my little girl was called in. Really hoping that she can secure the new one on there. Is it just a simple pushfit connection or is it glued on?


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## phil5556 (Feb 4, 2014)

bobdabuilda said:


> You get a great view of the connection point to the tray through it. I was hoping my wife could get her hand in but no chance hence why my little girl was called in. Really hoping that she can secure the new one on there. Is it just a simple pushfit connection or is it glued on?


Hopefully it shouldn't be glued! We just pushed it on. The old ones pulled off easily. I would have liked to put a cable tie around it but there was no chance we would have managed it. I don't think they'll fall off


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

That's good to know, I will see how she fares with the pushfit and maybe try a cable tie if shes feeling heroic!


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## bobdabuilda (May 19, 2003)

All done through the small holes on the side thanks to my little superstar. The connection to the drainage lugs is sturdy enough even though its just pushfit thanks to the spigot design on it. I did use the heat shrink wrap on the tubes which makes them less flexible but just gives the extra peace of mind.

I'm still not particularly impressed by the tube design as the internal bore is small and turbulence within is increased by the spring which, as found in the original condom type tubes, just acts as a reservoir for the dirt to collect in. I think in future if I ever have to do this again I would take the ends of the old tubes for the fitment and connect them to a 30mm diameter smooth bore wire reinforced rubber or silicone hose.This would have the advantage of maximising the internal bore and being smooth won't collect the crap inside like the originals. I will post some pics of the install up shortly.

Once again, many thanks for posting up your install as it made the job much easier, even though I cheated by doing it through the side holes with the help of my 9 yr old daughter.


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## miknix (Jul 26, 2015)

Hello guys,

I've just removed the drain pipe from the passenger side using your wonderful thread as a guide. My 2000 TT was fitted with this:










It really resembles the new pipes you have bought and fitted yourself. On my car what happened is that the duct tape in the top-end of the pipe had deteriorated and because of that the pipe totally disconnected from the top rubbery ring and fell inside the car. My TT was getting loads of water inside because of that!

I have my thread running for a while if someone wants to leave some feedback (I don't want to hijack this one):
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1276057


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## GreenMeenie (Apr 2, 2016)

Many thanks for the previous good work done here; I'm feeling confident about replacing mine as soon as the weather gives me the opportunity. Got the two tubes waiting patiently.


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## DrWOB (Nov 27, 2016)

Greetings - Thanks for this valuable thread!

It's allowed me to remove the interior trim and see the tubes. I'd like to replace with larger diameter smooth bore tubing, and ideally purchase it before old tubes are pulled out so the swap can be done in a single go.

Trouble is I'm unclear on inside and outside diameters that will allow a push fit onto the drip tray spigot and/or re-using end that exits into wheel arch.

I 've seen discrepant figures of 22 and 30 mm, so would really appreciate a definitive spec on I/D & O/D.

Thanks for your time and help!

Bill


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

Did you see the photos Phil556 posted part-way down the first page after I asked him about dimensions? There are some quite clear pictures showing each end of the tube where it fits onto various other bits.


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## miknix (Jul 26, 2015)

also look to the pictures in my thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1276057
I made some measurements there.



DrWOB said:


> Greetings - Thanks for this valuable thread!
> 
> It's allowed me to remove the interior trim and see the tubes. I'd like to replace with larger diameter smooth bore tubing, and ideally purchase it before old tubes are pulled out so the swap can be done in a single go.
> 
> ...


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## DrWOB (Nov 27, 2016)

Hi droopsnoot & miknix,

Thank you both for you kind replies!

Yes, I reviewed pics from Phil556 & was having difficulty discerning actual i/d due to shadows. My best approx is 22 mm, and miknix photos seem to corroborate. Looks like fitting flares to 30 mm though?

I'm in the States so 7/8 inch i/d would be 22.225 mm - presume that would stay on with push fit; and allow splicing onto rubber grommet at wheel arch for retention? That's really my concern [though I may just leave interior trim off for winter to make sure tubes are staying in place] Thought about putting powdered graphite on trim retainer clips when I do reinstall, as one or two actually broke out of plastic on removal ;-/

Also thinking it might be prudent to place a plastic "hair strainer" like used for sink drains over drip tray inlets to block big chunks & aid in debris removal going forward.

Will be travelings next days, so apologize in advance in case I'm slow to acknowledge further posts!

Cheers, DrWOB


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## miknix (Jul 26, 2015)

My solution on duct taping the pipes is not definitive either so I'm really interested in the solution you are aiming for.

What I had thought to do myself was to buy a pvc pipe (the ones used in washing machines) and then use a heat gun to allow the pipe to expand and accommodate the diameter (use vaseline or glycerin, it helps sliding into place with almost no effort) of the drain pipe (on the bottom of the drain cup). Then, to be triple-sure it holds in place, tighten it up using a hose clamp (like the ones used in turbo hoses); if the PVC pipe is good quality, this should last for many many years. To simplify, instead of a hose clamp, maybe one could even use a zip-tie..

From my experience in doing the last repair, I think it's very manageable to pass a small heat gun and screwdriver (to screw the hose clamp) through the tiny window in the chassis.

What do you think?


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Having done this job today I very much doubt that you would be able to get a screwdriver in to tighten a jubilee type clip however if anyone has managed it I stand to be corrected.


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## Antax (Nov 25, 2013)

I'm going to resurrect this old post again. My tubes were clogged up so much I had to take them out. When I got them out they looked nothing like the ones in the pics. The bottom end is the same but mine are made of a corrugated black plastic pipe. looked to be pretty tough and a lot tougher than the foam stuff in the pics. Maybe someone "made" their own replacement. At $70 each I could understand why.


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## stevov (Jun 15, 2016)

Did this job on mine without touching the interior. Everything can be done using the bottom and top holes in the wheel arch and some wire and a 2 ft length of 12 mm tubing. Fish the wire, lasso the hose use the wire down through the pipe in the top hole as a noose and lift and press onto the drain tray.


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## philclemo (Mar 18, 2017)

stevov said:


> Did this job on mine without touching the interior. Everything can be done using the bottom and top holes in the wheel arch and some wire and a 2 ft length of 12 mm tubing. Fish the wire, lasso the hose use the wire down through the pipe in the top hole as a noose and lift and press onto the drain tray.


Stevov, what tubing did you use? 12mm would fall into washing machine supply hose I would think.

Phil


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## stevov (Jun 15, 2016)

By tubing I mean a length of pipe through which I passed the lasso wire. The drain pipes were original. Tie the wire to the end of the drain pipe where it attaches to the drain tray the wire comes out the top access hole. You side the wire through the tube/pipe and pull it tight so the end of the hose is tight to the end of the tube and then use the tube to locate the hose to the drain tray nipple and push up. Slide the tube back out tuck the wire into the access hole refit plugs and arch liner. No interior dismantling required. I used 12mm aluminium tubing. The tubing needs to be rigid.


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

philclemo said:


> stevov said:
> 
> 
> > Did this job on mine without touching the interior. Everything can be done using the bottom and top holes in the wheel arch and some wire and a 2 ft length of 12 mm tubing. Fish the wire, lasso the hose use the wire down through the pipe in the top hole as a noose and lift and press onto the drain tray.
> ...


Think its bigger than 12mm more like 23/24mm from memory


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## TTrok (Jun 5, 2017)

OMG this was one of the many things on the list that needs to be done to my poor car.
BUT the garage had scary £££ next to the job quote so if there is anyone in my area who fancies the job more than happy to pay them I may have sons but sadly none of them are going to work on mums pride and joy - you wanted it you get it sorted seems to be their theory .
So please can drop him off if anyone in the area has the time and know how :roll:


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

TTrok said:


> if anyone in the area


What area?

(Not an offer, I should stress).


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## black9146 (Jul 3, 2014)

Go on Droopsnoot, you know you want to :lol: :lol:


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## TTrok (Jun 5, 2017)

Sadly not Cheshire 
I am roughly 10 mins from both blackwall tunnel and dartford crossing ( depending on the traffic and how you drive :wink: )


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## stevov (Jun 15, 2016)

black9146 said:


> philclemo said:
> 
> 
> > stevov said:
> ...


The pipe is a means to an end to reattach the original drain pipe not replace it. You can use 12mm, 15mm what ever you have to hand that fits though the top access hole.


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## philclemo (Mar 18, 2017)

stevov said:


> The pipe is a means to an end to reattach the original drain pipe not replace it. You can use 12mm, 15mm what ever you have to hand that fits though the top access hole.


I get you stevov. I like your thinking. I think I'll source some 22mm coolant hose in 610mm lengths and have a go.


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## westo3 (Jan 15, 2011)

Need to do this. Great thread.


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## stevov (Jun 15, 2016)

philclemo said:


> stevov said:
> 
> 
> > The pipe is a means to an end to reattach the original drain pipe not replace it. You can use 12mm, 15mm what ever you have to hand that fits though the top access hole.
> ...


Let me know how you get on. All my contact details by clicking my signature. Ring if you get stuck [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Humbug (Jan 3, 2020)

Useful guide, thanks! I did this yesterday and got loads of scratches/bruises on my arms from having to reach through the small panel holes.

As I mentioned here https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1977585:

1. I reused the original rubber ed pieces of the 'condom'-style hoses and Tiger Sealed them to corrugated plastic sink drain hose - zero cost for materials as I already tahd the bit of hose and Tiger Seal, but wouldn't have been much even if I had had to buy them; certainly less than the official Audi ones!

2. After completing this I had a "d'oh!" moment: in the garage I have some old edge trim, this type of thing that you get in a door shut or covering a raised seam. It would have protected my arms somewhat to have put bits of this round the edges of the square holes that you have to reach through to get to the top of the rain hose connections.

Simon


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hi Guys,

So managed to get everything stripped down in preparation for the new hoses. Just one quick question: How do I remove the existing Durex pipe from the drip tray (Passenger Side)? I can reach into the gap, but cant reach far enough up to ensure I remove the existing Durex pipe from the drip tray completely and I was just worried if I pull on the existing Durex pipe it will just rip and leave the top part still secured to the drip tray! Or do need to find/reach the existing rubber connector that connects to the plastic drip tray? (if there is one?)

Cheers


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## Humbug (Jan 3, 2020)

Not much help to you but I found that I was able to get my arm in far enough to be able to hold the underneath of the drip tray 'spout'. It took a bit of wriggling in and it's difficult to explain but left arm on passenger side/right arm on driver's side I ended up with the arm through the first square hole up to the biceps...

Good luck!

Simon



Hacksawcats said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> So managed to get everything stripped down in preparation for the new hoses. Just one quick question: How do I remove the existing Durex pipe from the drip tray (Passenger Side)? I can reach into the gap, but cant reach far enough up to ensure I remove the existing Durex pipe from the drip tray completely and I was just worried if I pull on the existing Durex pipe it will just rip and leave the top part still secured to the drip tray! Or do need to find/reach the existing rubber connector that connects to the plastic drip tray? (if there is one?)
> 
> Cheers


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Humbug said:


> Not much help to you but I found that I was able to get my arm in far enough to be able to hold the underneath of the drip tray 'spout'. It took a bit of wriggling in and it's difficult to explain but left arm on passenger side/right arm on driver's side I ended up with the arm through the first square hole up to the biceps...
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> ...


OK, Thanks for that, I'll keep trying! Or try try to find a small person who maybe able to reach further.


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Hacksawcats said:


> Humbug said:
> 
> 
> > Not much help to you but I found that I was able to get my arm in far enough to be able to hold the underneath of the drip tray 'spout'. It took a bit of wriggling in and it's difficult to explain but left arm on passenger side/right arm on driver's side I ended up with the arm through the first square hole up to the biceps...
> ...


Well, no luck finding a street urchin! I've tried sticking my arm up as far as I can and I can only reach it this far (see photo of finger!, courtesy of endoscope camera of ebay) So stuck now on how to reach it!? I was thinking of using a pair of long nose pliers and attaching them to my arm using string or something, so that if I drop them I can at least retrieve them from the body work, good or bad idea?


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

Got the bugger by using 11" LNP. Drivers side next, hope its going to be easier!


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## Hacksawcats (Jan 16, 2020)

droopsnoot said:


> If possible, and if it's not too late, any chance you can take some dimensions from those tubes - inner and outer diameter and length? Call me cheap, but £55-odd for two lengths of rubber hose is a bit on the steep side. Would be nice to have an idea of the size before I take the car to bits.


Hi, did you end up finding an alternative rubber hose solution?

Cheers


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## Humpy999 (Aug 28, 2020)

In case anyone is trying to make their own drains, this marking is on the outside of the Audi replacement parts


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## SimonBUK (11 mo ago)

So did anybody else make some new pipes ?

Looks like it's a job I'm going to have to tackle. Don't like the prices being quoted for a couple of bits of pipes !!


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## droopsnoot (Sep 5, 2002)

I bought some suitable rubber / neoprene hose from a local car trim supplier, but I haven't fitted them yet as I was able to rod out the existing ones and they seem to be OK.


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## rogerowen (Dec 28, 2020)

shell said:


> Need to have a go at mine again, I have a sopping floor


Be careful - there's a whole load of expensive, or impossible to get hold of anymore, electronic kit behind the seats and on the floor! I just ran a drain clearing wire down mine - look for a little plastic tray under the leading edge of the hood as iy meets the trailing edge of the door (there's one each side. In a corner of the tray is the drain hole.


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

I really don’t recommend prodding anything down drain tubes that are probably original and 20+ years old.
You’re likely to do more harm than good.
I know that I keep going on about this , but if you have a roadster I really recommend that you visually inspect them.
My car is low mileage and garaged , that didn’t stop the degradation of the tubes on my car.
If they do need replacing the tubes aren’t a difficult job.


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## NickA555 (Mar 12, 2018)

silverbug said:


> If they do need replacing the tubes aren’t a difficult job.


Not difficult if you have tiny hands and skinny arms mate! 

I had to get a neighbour of mine to use her skinny arms/tiny hands to connect the drain hoses up when I had my roadster. Not a job I could do with my arms/hands!! 😄


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

NickA555 said:


> Not difficult if you have tiny hands and skinny arms mate!
> 
> I had to get a neighbour of mine to use her skinny arms/tiny hands to connect the drain hoses up when I had my roadster. Not a job I could do with my arms/hands!! 😄


I do have small hands and skinny arms so I think that you do have a point!


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## SimonBUK (11 mo ago)

All round to Silverbugs house to have our drain tubes fitted !!


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## silverbug (Jan 1, 2020)

SimonBUK said:


> All round to Silverbugs house to have our drain tubes fitted !!



I didn’t find it too bad a job at all.
Would do it without hesitation should I ever have another roadster….


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