# Drain Holes Roadster



## arjunchawda

Hey guys,

I've done a quick search already, but wanted somebody to point all the drain holes on the 2.0 TFSI mk2 roadster 2007

I've started to get lots of white mound on my passenger side carpet only, and passenger side back..

I've also noticed windscreen and windows steamed up when left overnight.

And I just noticed the boot, underneath the tray, is slightly moist, bit of condensation droplets on the battery and around that area..

Could someone with experience in this, suggest why this may be?

First thing I want to do is check the drain holes, if somebody could kindly point out all the drain holes for the mk2 roadster, and also I've read from my searches that the ac pipe might be the culprit.. What is this air conditioning pipe, where, and how would it cause this?

Any other tips would be appreciated! As I want to eliminate this completely!

I've read through lots of other search results here.


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## Graham'sTT

Most likely culprit for wet carpet is door drain holes (square hole at front end of door bottom - lowest point) blocked, and/or water getting to inside of rubber door seal rather than draining to the outside. Make sure that plastic door sill is dry, leave paper towel along it overnight when rain expected, then check to see what is wet. Also there is a drain at the top of the A pillar. Pour water carefully via a funnel - you should see it trickle down the inside of the door jamb and across the outer sill.
Most likely culprit for area around battery compartment is the hood drain. Water should drain where that little piece of black rubber is located just behind the closed door, where the roof flaps locate when they are down (roof down). Water drains from here into trays beneath. These then drain underneath the car in the rear wheel arches. To check them open roof but stop the opening cycle when the roof is fully open but before the flaps start to go down. You will see the trays, water marks will be visible if they drain, water will be present if they don't. If they are dry add some water via a funnel carefully and see if they empty underneath the car.
If anything else, I cannot really add. Others will know of more drains on the roadster - these are the ones I have found. Also no experience of Air Con plumbing.


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## BlipTT

Not Roadster but TT-Driver put up a very informative post on the subject last year, some of the causes and maintenance will be similar.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1144209&p=6421297&hilit=drains#p6421297


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## arjunchawda

Graham'sTT said:


> Most likely culprit for wet carpet is door drain holes (square hole at front end of door bottom - lowest point) blocked, and/or water getting to inside of rubber door seal rather than draining to the outside. Make sure that plastic door sill is dry, leave paper towel along it overnight when rain expected, then check to see what is wet. Also there is a drain at the top of the A pillar. Pour water carefully via a funnel - you should see it trickle down the inside of the door jamb and across the outer sill.
> Most likely culprit for area around battery compartment is the hood drain. Water should drain where that little piece of black rubber is located just behind the closed door, where the roof flaps locate when they are down (roof down). Water drains from here into trays beneath. These then drain underneath the car in the rear wheel arches. To check them open roof but stop the opening cycle when the roof is fully open but before the flaps start to go down. You will see the trays, water marks will be visible if they drain, water will be present if they don't. If they are dry add some water via a funnel carefully and see if they empty underneath the car.
> If anything else, I cannot really add. Others will know of more drains on the roadster - these are the ones I have found. Also no experience of Air Con plumbing.


Thank you very very much!


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## missile

There is a post I contributed to detailing TT roadster drain holes and how to clear then see here > viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1122089&p=6452001#p6452001


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## arjunchawda

missile said:


> There is a post I contributed to detailing TT roadster drain holes and how to clear then see here > viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1122089&p=6452001#p6452001


Just read this, spending today doing all the suggested tips!

Thanks


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## missile

Pleased to help. I used towels weighted down to soak up the water behind the seats.


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## arjunchawda

Ok! So, I spent the whole day at my uncles garage with my roadster.

Tested all drain holes, cleared them, however, I've spotted two areas that look like problems!

Now as I mentioned earlier, my carpets are getting wet. Occasionally some white mould.

Anyway, I've looked carefully through all drain holes, and the only problematic ones are passenger side window..

When I pour water over the passenger side door, a little bit of water drips down from the top A-pillar on to the carpet right by the seat..

If you look at my pictures attached, the passenger side rubber seal sort of protruded out a little, compared to the drivers side rubber seal. The drivers side isn't letting any water in to the car when I pour water over it.

This makes sense as to why the occasional White mould appears on the passenger side carpets.

Passenger side rubber seal



















Drivers side rubber seal (not problematic)



















The second issue I found, if this is an issue, is the bulkhead drain holes..

The drain hole by the passenger side wiper is fine.. Drains correctly..

But the drain hole by the driver side is collecting a puddle of water and not draining quickly.. Is this normal?

The water still comes out under the car from the drivers side bulkhead drain hole, but it's still keeping quite a puddle underneath the bulkhead plastic trim..

I don't think it's supposed to?










Please advise!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TT-driver

No puddle should be there. A sign of clogged drain holes. If you remove those two screw, you can gently lift the plastic a bit and remove the dirt that has collected there. Too much of a puddle there and the wiper motor will die.


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## arjunchawda

TT-driver said:


> No puddle should be there. A sign of clogged drain holes. If you remove those two screw, you can gently lift the plastic a bit and remove the dirt that has collected there. Too much of a puddle there and the wiper motor will die.


Will do this asap!

Thanks


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## arjunchawda

Cleared all drain holes and they're dispelling water correctly...

I dried my carpets..

Just rained, carpets still wet 

What else could it be?!?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TT-driver

You did close the roof, did you :wink: :lol:

Any water coming from behind the door cards? That's an area where I had to do some work.


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## arjunchawda

Haha, yes, roof closed.

Just checked again...the drivers side is all dry, and the passenger side floor is damp from the back to front..

This is getting irritating..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## arjunchawda

I'm going to dismantle the passenger doorcard and have a look, where are the seals and are three more than one?

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## Graham'sTT

Don't know about seals in a TT doorcard as I'm lucky to have never taken one off.
Had to do it twice on Golfs and there are two possibilities that I have come across, that led to water getting onto the carpets.
1. There is usually a polyethylene sheet that can be removed when work is to be done on the window regulator. If this has been disturbed water running down the window glass can be mis-directed from where it should go ie the bottom of the door to escape via the correct drain holes, to drain between the door metalwork and the doorcard at the bottom edge of the doorcard, where it will drip onto the plastic sill cover inboard of the door seal, and hence onto your carpet.
2. All of the above could be OK to the point where the water should drain via the correct drain holes in the door bottom. A blockage here could lead to a build up of water which could then escape via the retaining holes for the doorcard clips along the bottom edge. Again water would then flow to the inside of the car as it is escaping inboard of the door seals.
Water leaks can be a right pig to resolve. My neighbours 3 series BMW spent 6 weeks at the main dealers getting a water leak sorted. Good luck with this, and do tell us when you've got it solved. It may help the next guy.


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## TT-driver

arjunchawda said:


> I'm going to dismantle the passenger doorcard and have a look, where are the seals and are three more than one?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No need to dismantle the door. Make sure everything is dry. Door closed. Apply lots of water against the lower window seal. You may even want to push a bit against the window so more water gets into the door.

Then open the door and check: is there water coming from behind the door card? Has the rubber seal on the body of the car gotten wet? Is water on its way to the carpet? (over the black plastic inner sill cover, the one under which the carpet ends.

All water that got into the door should leave the door through the drain holes and nowhere else.


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## arjunchawda

Just had a water test done with those pressure washers.

The drivers side is perfectly sealed.

The passenger side, the little black triangle is letting bits of water in..



The sills are dry and water is correctly draining where it should do..

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## TT-driver

For that triangle thing:

I wrote about it in my topic:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1144209


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## BillyP

Edit 2018: problem was really rear drain tubes. See new post.

Finally thanks to this post the cause for water leak into the driver footwell has been found. Just compare the left and right side drain hole in the front corner of the doors. The side with the leak has too much rubber blocking the hole so that in heavy rain it will overflow down to the floor.

Solution: cut away a part of the rubber so the hole widens.


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## LaztSWE

I just changed my drain pipes for the roof since I could hear water collecting inside. 
Needs removal of cards behind seats (its all clips, be careful)
removal of speakers (a few screws)
and then you see the drain pipes, mine were the older transparant ones, totally busted. just pull it out.









Got the solid rubber replacement ones, its a bit fiddly to get the top end on the water collectors, small hands required, roof flaps up and you can see the pipe connecting. I used a cut network cable to line up the pipe with collector tray, then just pushed it until it snapped in place. bottom end just needs some thin tool or force to lock in place.

Now since I know how to remove the cards to get to speakers, I'm thinking about upgrading the shitty Bose system. 

There are no drain holes at the rear wheels on a 2007 mk2 roadster, time well wasted.


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## TT-driver

I'm truly shocked by the sight of that. If it wasn't for the Audi sign on that speaker box I would have thought you're fooling us by posting a picture from a Lada of some sort.

The spring inside the hose ensures dirt can collect. The thin plastic is designed to break as soon as you'd need to free up the hose from dirt.


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## LaztSWE

Yeah, and no goodwill ofcourse! I asked why they used french condoms as car parts, but no luck. 
Atleast its fixed now, no more swimming pool in firewall.


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## SwissJetPilot

In order to check the drains under the Plenum, this post will walk you through how to get to them -

*How to: Plenum Removal for Drain Inspection & Cleaning*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1979747

It's unlikely that the drain tubes are damaged and need to be replaced, however here's the part numbers if that's the case: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Roof Drainage Hose L & R 8J7825597B. Going for around 18-Euro on eBay. Be aware there is a small tubular foam insert inside the drain tube where it connects to the drip tray. It's purpose is to reduce road noise, so don't remove it.

Replacement part number -
Item 11, Water Drainage Hose, Left/Right 
P/N 8J7 825 597 B

Item 10, Water Catchment Plate (Wasserfangblech) [for reference]
P/N 8J7 813 953 Left
P/N 8J7 813 954 Right

Be sure to check your drip tray for damage. There have been reports of broken trays which result in water leaking into the car as seen here. In this case, the entire top will have to be removed in order to replace the drip tray.

*Damp Behind Passenger Seat (Roadster)*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1944945


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## ajayp

After reading this I think I need to check various drainage areas.

After getting my roadster washed twice I noticed something strange but never got round to check it out.
When dropping the window and raising it even after a few days later the glass on the inner side is wet.

This did not seem right am I correct?


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## JohnnyFarmer

Left side destroyed spring rusted through & right side holes - both tray exit holes blocked. Will have a look on eBay thanks for the numbers-

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## SwissJetPilot

Once someone gets around to actually replacing one of these I'll add that information to this write-up in the KB.

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=1831981


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## BillyP

When checking the rear drain holes on my mk2 roadster 2007 I found tubes on both sides had slipped out of their position! As you see in the picture there is no black rubber tube connected to the black plastic drain pipe at the bottom inner wall. So I secured the tube with some silicon in both ends.

I think the rubber is too soft so wind pressure can force the tube out of position.

And for two years I didn't notice it when searching for the leak. Thanks to SwissJetPilot for excellent posts.


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## SwissJetPilot

Great pictures!! I've added a few of my own (see below). If you remove the speakers or do any work on them it's a good idea to check that the hoses are connected properly to the floor panel. They come loose very easily, so just be aware that this could be an issue if you have any work done to the fuel pump, speakers, or anything else in the bulkhead area.
.


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## abeall11219

I know this is an old thread, but i'd lkike to stress the importance of looking at the drains.

My car recently had a fault code causing the engine light to come on - it was warning the fuel pump control unit wasnt working correctly.

On investigating myself - I found the water had been leaking out the terrible drain pipes, and all over the car electrics.

This was causing the issue, and my fuel pump control module was actually overheating. quite concerning to say the least when it's next to fuel!

Either way, its fixed now, lets hope permanently!


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## Xcession

Hi all and thank you for your excellent informative posts.

Having just bought my 07 plate Mk2 I am experiencing the same issue of water ingress into the driver side footwell. Following instructions posted here I have checked and cleared all drain holes.

Having removed the rear seat panel yesterday following the KB item, my rear drain hose looks to be securely connected to the hole in the bulkhead OK. I cannot work out, though, what I am looking at in the second of the 2 photos in BillyP's most recent post just above. Is this picture taken from below the bulkhead that I can see through the cavity where I removed my speaker ie. The underside of where the hose should connect to? If so how do I access that to check the connection between hoses? I think BillyP says he used silicon on both.

Thank you again all for much guidance found so far already on this forum in trying to resolve my problem.

EDIT:typos corrected

Craig


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## BillyP

Hi Craig. My second picture is taken from outside the car. You say the hose is connected to the bulkhead, that is the horizontal hole for water egress. My picture shows the vertical hole for water ingress, ie. where the short end of the tube should come out and connect to the black plastic tray. Take the roof in mid position so the flaps open and use a flashlight to look down standing on the outside. It should not look like my picture where the tube is clearly missing.


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## Xcession

Thank you Billy for your prompt reply!

Ahhh, I know exactly where that second picture is now, thank you  When I checked the other day, the water catch-tray on my driver's side was indeed full of water. I used a long cable-tie and one of those sprung coated wires that you use to hang net curtains (great tool for this job btw, and cost a quid from Poundland!) to manually clear the drainage from the tray to the hose and then gave it a good washing-through - water seems to be leaving through the underneath of the car quite well now.

I couldn't actually quite see the spot where the tray and the hose connect, but had a friend reach behind the seat panel and move the hose side-to-side from that end, and I watched the tray moving correspondingly, so I assume the two are sealed together well enough, but will try and visually confirm this soon.

Seems my quest continues, but I'm kinda hoping that the last water I wet-vacced out of it was just residual on the bulkhead or being held in the sound-proofing sponge under the carpet - I will report back with any findings *fingers crossed* Luckily, a friend works at a garage with heated, dehumidified garages, so the car is living there for a couple of days until fully dry, and we can have another look.

Thank you again.
Craig


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## SwissJetPilot

You don't need a sealant on the bottom tube connection as it's a molded fit of the hose flange into the hole in the bulkhead floor; e.g it's self fitting. Just make sure it's fitted properly all the way around.

I believe his second image is the hose shoved too far into the bulkhead floor, so this is an example of how NOT to install it or what can happen if a technician gets careless working around it.

If you have the rear panels off, it's worth getting up in there with your smartphone and taking some pictures as it's near impossible to see the hose from above (looking in from the convertible top drip tray). As noted in the image below from the workshop manual, it's not even possible to access the drip trays unless the entire convertible top is removed. So getting the hose connected through the bulkhead is going to be a major PITA!

Easiest way to check if the connections are okay is to just pour water directly into the drip tray and see if anything is leaking into the bulkhead area rather than through the hose out out the bottom of the car. If you already have the rear panels removed, it will be easy to see if it's leaking into the bulkhead area.

This YouTube shows how it's done.


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## Xcession

Thank you for your advice Swiss,

The car is in the garage now for a couple of days, but yes the panels are still off so I will do as you say and try and get some pictures of the hoses and connections. I did already pour water directly into the tray and had a friend watch the bulkhead area as I was doing so, and also keep a hand on the hose, as the water was quite hot. No sign of any leakage from the hose area or on the bulkhead, and he said he could feel the heat of the water whilst holding the hose. the rate of flow down underneath the car seemed pretty good also.

Interestingly, looking at your schematic of the tray area above, I was a bit puzzled by what I saw the other night. As my friend moved the hose left and right whilst grabbing it through the rear panel access, I definitely saw that whole drip tray assembly moving inboard and outboard by maybe up to 10mm as he moved the hose. Looking at the schematic, that thing should be pretty well secured onto the car so I wouldn't expect to see any motion from the tray itself, but it was definitely moving. I'm just wondering if the tray itself could be misaligned or moving enough that water draining off the roof area is missing it completely. I'll have another check and compare it to the other side.

I have noted from the car's invoice history that a previous owner reported the roof failing to operate, and the roof flaps were both replaced, so this area has seen some work over the last couple of years. Just wondering if everything was put back correctly 

Thank you again - I will continue to investigate and report back!
Craig


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## SwissJetPilot

The fact the drip trays are loose may be worth further investigation. If they're working as intended and the water is going through the drain hoses and out, then the hoses are working okay. The question in my mind is whether or not water is getting into the drip trays when the top is up, especially if they are loose and out of aliment. You might try putting the top up and see if water runs into or past the drip tray.

Unfortunately, I can't find anything in the workshop manuals that covers the drain hose replacement. Not sure why Audi skipped it, but it's not in any of the manuals I have. Check here and you can download them yourself. If you can't find the one that covers the Roadster convertible top, let me know and you can email me at my nick name at Yahoo and I'll email it to you.
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833827

To your point of the roof flaps, they typically don't need to be replaced and even if they were, they're not connected to the drip tray. There's a long history of problems with the servo motors, fortunately the problem can often be remedied by just taking them apart and cleaning them. However, it will require a VCDS to do the adaptation if they're a problem in the future.

If you haven't seen this post already, it's worth a read. The flap motor R&R is included - 
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1813258


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## Xcession

Just a quick update on my leaking roof - thank you all again for your input!

It seems my problem was with (as with many others) the rear drain hoses behind the panels behind the seats. While mine were in OK condition and were located OK, the driver's side hose was badly blocked and needed a thorough cleaning and flush through.

Having done this once, fully wet-vacced the carpets and then checked the car the following day (after heavy rain) the driver's-side footwell (both behind and in front of the seat) was again waterlogged. It seems now, though, that no more water had ingressed into the car, it was just that so much water was _already_ trapped down there in the footwell (which looks to be capable of holding dozens of litres of water btw!) that what was there already was just soaking back up through the soundproofing sponge and into the carpet again overnight, making me think the leak had not been fixed.

Now, having fully dried it out and stripped out the carpet, sponge, seat etc and monitored the footwell through a couple of days of rain, no more water appears to be getting in.

Once again, thank you for all the excellent advice and relevant guides on the knowledge base, which were invaluable.

Craig


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## SwissJetPilot

To get a better idea of what's down in your drain, simply open completely, then close it just enough flap comes up and the top us slightly up and out of the rear top well. (see picture below)

Then place your phone into the drain pan with the camera lens at the bottom of the pan facing inwards with the video running. You may have to turn the camera slightly left to right to pan the area. Remove your smartphone, check the video and you can see if there's anything down in there blocking the drain.

In the image below, the left side of the roof is shown, and the camera is placed on the outer side of the roof mechanism facing inwards in the direction of the arrow.

Getting to a blocked drain can be a challenge, so a vacuum cleaner is your best bet when it's dry. If the nozzle won't fit, put a length of 1" or smaller tubing on the end. If nothing else it will hold onto anything it finds and you can remove it by hand.

As you can see, there's two triangular "struts" in the way of the drain opening, so that can compound the problem with blockage or trying to get anything down the tube to clear it. In wet climates, its a good idea to check the drains frequently as it doesn't take much to block them (e.g. dirt, leaves, grass, etc.) and the next thing you know, the trays will fill up with water and over flows into the car.

As it turns out, there were a couple of bits I needed to fish out! I found two little caps on both sides and a piece of electrical tape. Not a big deal, but you can see how it doesn't take much to block the drip tray especially if you have to park near a tree where leaves and bits can make their way into the drip tray and block the drain opening.


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## sarahstuck12

SwissJetPilot said:


> To get a better idea of what's down in your drain, simply open completely, then close it just enough flap comes up and the top us slightly up and out of the rear top well. (see picture below)
> 
> Then place your phone into the drain pan with the camera lens at the bottom of the pan facing inwards with the video running. You may have to turn the camera slightly left to right to pan the area. Remove your smartphone, check the video and you can see if there's anything down in there blocking the drain.
> 
> In the image below, the left side of the roof is shown, and the camera is placed on the outer side of the roof mechanism facing inwards in the direction of the arrow.
> 
> Getting to a blocked drain can be a challenge, so a vacuum cleaner is your best bet when it's dry. If the nozzle won't fit, put a length of 1" or smaller tubing on the end. If nothing else it will hold onto anything it finds and you can remove it by hand.
> 
> As you can see, there's two triangular "struts" in the way of the drain opening, so that can compound the problem with blockage or trying to get anything down the tube to clear it. In wet climates, its a good idea to check the drains frequently as it doesn't take much to block them (e.g. dirt, leaves, grass, etc.) and the next thing you know, the trays will fill up with water and over flows into the car.
> 
> As it turns out, there were a couple of bits I needed to fish out! I found two little caps on both sides and a piece of electrical tape. Not a big deal, but you can see how it doesn't take much to block the drip tray especially if you have to park near a tree where leaves and bits can make their way into the drip tray and block the drain opening.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> View attachment 1


Sorry to bump this, I think I might have this problem when I was scrubbing my roof I noticed water was sitting round the back of the trim in the rubber bit.

Is this the way to to check? Drainage?

Have roof down flaps open?
And look for that hole?

Would a coat hanger be ok to check for blockages?


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## SwissJetPilot

If you open the top just a little, you'll notice how the back of the top is connected to the body work. The design is intended to allow water to flow around the rear of the top (below the back window) and then down and around into the drip trays, into the drain tubes and out through the bottom of the vehicle.

If you think something is blocking the drain tube a length of weed trimmer plastic filament would be a better choice. But rather than trying to push it all the way out of the vehicle, it might be better to remove the rear seat panel, disconnect the bottom of the drain tube from the metal work, and remove the blockage. If you try to push any blockage all the way through the tube, it could get blocked in the body work and make matters worse.

Just inside the drain hose, is a short length of foam tubing. It's tricky to see in the illustrations, but it's there to help dampen road noise. You don't want to damage or dislodge it.

My recommendation for putting your camera down there is to see if something is in the drip tray which could be easily removed. Without knowing what's going on down there, you could end up shoving something into the tube and making things worse.


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## sarahstuck12

SwissJetPilot said:


> If you open the top just a little, you'll notice how the back of the top is connected to the body work. The design is intended to allow water to flow around the rear of the top (below the back window) and then down and around into the drip trays, into the drain tubes and out through the bottom of the vehicle.
> 
> If you think something is blocking the drain tube a length of weed trimmer plastic filament would be a better choice. But rather than trying to push it all the way out of the vehicle, it might be better to remove the rear seat panel, disconnect the bottom of the drain tube from the metal work, and remove the blockage. If you try to push any blockage all the way through the tube, it could get blocked in the body work and make matters worse.
> 
> Just inside the drain hose, is a short length of foam tubing. It's tricky to see in the illustrations, but it's there to help dampen road noise. You don't want to damage or dislodge it.
> 
> My recommendation for putting your camera down there is to see if something is in the drip tray which could be easily removed. Without knowing what's going on down there, you could end up shoving something into the tube and making things worse.
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> View attachment 1


Thanks

Is that where water collects and drains in the picture.

Hopefully I don't have to take back panel out otherwise it's another job for my dad


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## SwissJetPilot

Sorry, but I'm not certain where that is on the convertible top at that zoom level. Can you back the picture out a bit?


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## sarahstuck12

SwissJetPilot said:


> Sorry, but I'm not certain where that is on the convertible top at that zoom level. Can you back the picture out a bit?


Here is the bit zoomed out

Then 2 of the flaps open, don't know where I'm looking but looks grubby in there.

I then checked behind passenger seat and saw wet patch. It has been two days storm weather here though.


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## SwissJetPilot

If you're getting water in that area, either the drip tray is overflowing, or the drain hose is leaking inside the bulkhead.

To remove the back seat panel, you can follow this DIY - 
*
How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Roadster Drain Hose Access*
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1831981


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## sarahstuck12

Useful thanks 
I just spent the last few hours collecting gunk out of the tray with rips of cotton cloth and a coat hanger.
It was filthy.

Also I noticed, when I tipped water down from a bottle and looked below the car there were drips from what seemed like two holes, one more than the other.

Should there only be one exit underneath?

Also is there a guide for getting the plastic cover off behind the seat?
If it's easy I'll give it a go thanks.


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## SwissJetPilot

sarahstuck12 said:


> Is there a guide for getting the plastic cover off behind the seat?


Yes, there's a "How To" link in the one I referenced previously.


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