# Beunhaas's 1.8t BT EFR6758 build *BOV*



## Beunhaas

Hello guys,

Short introduction. I'm a Dutch student mechenical engineering owning a tt 180 as first car at the age of 19  . 2 Years later decided i wanted more power and enjoy the quattro so i bought a 225 quattro in avus silver.
The 225 is mapped to around 260 HP i got from logging the maf readings and deviding by 0.8.

I do read this great forum since i got my first TT 4 years ago but now started to do a K04 TFSI turbo conversion and decided it might be a good idea to start a building thread.

I like taking pics of mods i do so hold on :lol:

some photos from both the silver 180 and the 225 avus silver tt.














































I like the look of the gloss black grills on the TT QS so off the grills went.










Lucky enough we have a sand blasting machine at work so the honeycomb was piece of cake preparing it for painting.
Pretty happy with the results.



















Then i picked up these boys.










These are porsche boxster S or regular 911 front calipers. They have the 36 and 40mm pistons for the nice feeling and match with the OEM master cylinder. Wanted to use the 312mm rotors to keep the weight down. Result: 3 kg weight saving per corner. And again back to the sand blasting machine 










Fresh coat of original porsche red color.










Decals applied. Don't like the porsche so Brembo went on.










Since i study mechanical engineering brackets where no problem. Drawed them in solidworks, did some fatique simulations, shaved some further weight off and a local machine shop machined them from aluminum.










Installed them but Needed a spacer for clearance with the original TT 9 spoke rims. Only spacers a had were 20 mm resulting in little rubbing inside the fenders. :x





































Summerwheels went on still with the 20mm spacers.










And washed the car 8)










After a little inverstigation decided to improve handling before adding more power. Ordered apex 40mm lowering springs, R32 arb's from the dealer, new bushes, bolts etc. While dropping subframe it would be rude not to add cookbots so they were ordered as well. Install isn't thad difficult just takes time while doing on axle stands.

Old subframe pulled.


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## cookbot

Be interesting to see how it goes, I'm doing my TFSI conversion at the moment too.


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## jamman

Good luck with it


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## Beunhaas

cookbot said:


> Be interesting to see how it goes, I'm doing my TFSI conversion at the moment too.


Interesting. Do you have a link to a build thread? Not many threads about this conversion. Did you use a beachbuggy adapter plate or modified the manifold flange so it fits directly on the head? And did you pull the engine to make things easy accessible?

To continue the build, new bushes with cookbots pressed in.



















Fresh setup ready to go back on.










Got a sticky piston on one of the calipers so fixed that while car was on axle stands. Not completely gone but better.










Wanted to get rid of the small rubbing that happened on speedbumps so ordered some new things for a better brake setup 8)
The rotors are Brembo 330 X 28 mm from an Alfa Brera v6. A nice step up from the 312 mm rotors with the right depth of the bell to fix the rubbing problem on the fenders. This rotor is biggest you can fit in this boxster S caliper.










Ordered some new Hell braided brake lines because the old goodrigde braided lines where leaking.










The rotors needs to be redrilled to the 5X100 PCD and spigot rings where made for the correct hub size. The old carriers a designed where updated for the new rotors. Also painted the rotors to protect them from rust.



















comparison with the OEM 312 X 25mm rotors



















and fitted 8)



















Now a 11mm spacer is used and the rubbing is gone and stil 1.6 Kg lighter per coner as OEM :lol:










That's it for now. Will update this tomorrow about the K04 TFSI turbo conversion i'm doing at the moment [smiley=dude.gif]


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## conlechi

Looking forward to your build progress , the TFSI ko4 turbo swap is interesting and something I considered , looking forward to the results 8)


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## Beunhaas

So time for an update on the actual turbo conversion it self.
I have been reading about big turbo's on this forum and was verry impressed by the GT28 build by jamman. Then i accidentally came across a thread from prawn with the track build A3 with a K04 TFSI turbo from the S3 Cupra and TTS. Saw the results and was liked the oem spool but capabilities or 370 bhp.
My aim will only be 350 bhp and 400 Nm on stock rods. Maybe later i will throw in some IE rods, SMF and crank up the boost :twisted:

Few months of searching on the internet and decided to plunge into it.
Bought a revised turbo with only 32.000 km from a golf R.










Inspired by the adapter design from beachbuggy turbo's i started drawing my own. It's what i study so not that much work.










Collecting parts has started however the furter in the process more and more parts where added. The restrictive turbo disharge was removed and i made a silencer bypass that also got me rid of the click system and now i could use 2.5' silicon hoses.



















Oredred oil and water lines kit from tij-power in germany. While wating for this to arrive a decided to wrap my rims black but failed miserably. Couldn't get the foil to strech enough in the corners of the spokes so plastidip was ordered. [smiley=bigcry.gif]










Then this package arrived. It's 30mm thick low carbon mild steel machined with a water cutter. This thickness gave me the ability to reuse te old studs without fouling on the new manifold.










Machining it to the correct specs using a mill on the university workshop.










almost there










and the final adapter plate port matched to the head and to the exhasut manifold 8)










Photo of all parts for mounting the turbo to the engine.
Decided to go for 630CC injectors from USRT. These have a modified spray pattern for the 20V multi valve engines giving it a smooth idle.










Then it was time to start pulling the car appart. Decided to get everything out in one piece so i could always return to stock in case of. The three bolt on top of the turbo where pretty tight but some leverage fixed that pretty easy.

The stupid audi designers make you remove the transfer box to remove the old turbo support bracket. I will make a new one from 4 mm stainles using a laser cutter 










One of the three green O-rings was knackerd so ordered new ones while the box was of. Then the adapter plate went on and hanging the turbo in from under with the subframe, steeringrack, prop shaft and transferbox lowerd was pretty easy. LHD gives you plenty of space for the turbo.










test fitted the oil and water lines kit. The rubber connecting hose for the oil drain was too short but not a major problem. I do however have to make a 30mm spacer for the water feed because the kit is designed for bolting the turbo directly on the cylinder head.










Removed the power steering return pipe from the bulk head and started to make a 3'' stainless downpipe for it. Tight but not impossible on a quattro.



















Awaiting new parts to finish the downpipe and connecting it to the oem catback a started to make the pipe from the turbo to the old chargepipe on the left top side of the engine. However could find a rout for my liking and the standard SMIC aren't that big so bumper off. I made a mockup for a wellycooler (700X300X76mm) and it's pretty big but fit's exactly :lol:










Bumper on to check for clearance.










Fitted nice so a FMIC was ordered. The crashbar was dented a little with a vice on the bottom so there is 5mm clearance all round. The FMIC fits exactly in font of the slam panel and with a 90 degree bend on each end it's pretty easy to make the pipework and keeping the aliens.



















Made new pipework so i could keep the aliens.










And that's how it sit's today. Tomorrow new parts will arrive and when progress is made i will give you guys a new update. Will the clutch DMF hold up or do i have to start looking for a SMF? Any suggestions?


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## Beunhaas

conlechi said:


> Looking forward to your build progress , the TFSI ko4 turbo swap is interesting and something I considered , looking forward to the results 8)


To be honest i did search for an update on you awsome TFSI engine swap and found this TFSI turbo conversion on the A3 that inspired me :lol:
Is it already back on the road?


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## conlechi

Beunhaas said:


> conlechi said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to your build progress , the TFSI ko4 turbo swap is interesting and something I considered , looking forward to the results 8)
> 
> 
> 
> To be honest i did search for an update on you awsome TFSI engine swap and found this TFSI turbo conversion on the A3 that inspired me :lol:
> Is it already back on the road?
Click to expand...

Nearly there ,it's been a while  , the mechanical swap is all done , a difference with the electrics has been an issue needing a new loom from the donor ecu to engine bay ..... end of the month all going well


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## Beunhaas

conlechi said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> conlechi said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to your build progress , the TFSI ko4 turbo swap is interesting and something I considered , looking forward to the results 8)
> 
> 
> 
> To be honest i did search for an update on you awsome TFSI engine swap and found this TFSI turbo conversion on the A3 that inspired me :lol:
> Is it already back on the road?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nearly there ,it's been a while  , the mechanical swap is all done , a difference with the electrics has been an issue needing a new loom from the donor ecu to engine bay ..... end of the month all going well
Click to expand...

Must be nice to have it back on the road after such long time [smiley=dude.gif]


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## kettle

bloody hell, I was expecting to have to wait ages for the next update on this!
looking good, pretty handy being able to produce the parts yourself.


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## cookbot

Beunhaas said:


> cookbot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Be interesting to see how it goes, I'm doing my TFSI conversion at the moment too.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Do you have a link to a build thread? Not many threads about this conversion. Did you use a beachbuggy adapter plate or modified the manifold flange so it fits directly on the head? And did you pull the engine to make things easy accessible?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty much doing the same as you, I'm actually collecting all the parts (rods, injectors etc) all in one go and drawing up the parts on solid works too. I've not got as much time though, so it'll take a couple of month before I'm jetting things.

I'm also waiting till I've got my van running full time so I can pull the engine and rebuild it properly before slotting it back in to build the down pipe.

Seems like you're working fast though, wish I could get mine along that well, but my workshop is over 100 miles away!


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## Mr_Smith

Awesome start. So lucky you have the skill/access to all those tools.

Looking forward to seeing the end result!


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## Beunhaas

kettle said:


> bloody hell, I was expecting to have to wait ages for the next update on this!
> looking good, pretty handy being able to produce the parts yourself.


Haha well i actually started about a month ago so had some photos ready but now it's where i am currently at. So for now on it wil take a bit longer for updates :lol:
Maybe tomorrow a new update when new parts arrive



Mr_Smith said:


> Awesome start. So lucky you have the skill/access to all those tools.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the end result!


Skill far from a mechanic but it's not that difficult removing the turbo. Only terrible accessible with the quattro system. It's standing in a friends shed and he has all the tools needed. (exept for the 16mm safety spline to remove the gearbox drain plug you can buy at the dealers)



cookbot said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cookbot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Be interesting to see how it goes, I'm doing my TFSI conversion at the moment too.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Do you have a link to a build thread? Not many threads about this conversion. Did you use a beachbuggy adapter plate or modified the manifold flange so it fits directly on the head? And did you pull the engine to make things easy accessible?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm pretty much doing the same as you, I'm actually collecting all the parts (rods, injectors etc) all in one go and drawing up the parts on solid works too. I've not got as much time though, so it'll take a couple of month before I'm jetting things.
> 
> I'm also waiting till I've got my van running full time so I can pull the engine and rebuild it properly before slotting it back in to build the down pipe.
> 
> Seems like you're working fast though, wish I could get mine along that well, but my workshop is over 100 miles away!
Click to expand...

I can't reply on your PM (not enough posts?) but i messured the old 1.8T exhasut gasket and the new 2.0 TFSI gasket so i know the dimensions of the stud pattern. Then i used a laser cutter (happy university workshop) to cut 2mm stainless and see if it matched the bolt pattern on the gaskets and turbo. Do you plan to keep the original studs or use allen bolts instead?
I wanted to use the original studs so that's why i used 30mm thick steel for the adapter but i did read something about RHD having some interference with the steering colum heat shielding that needs to be dented. So if you uses a 30mm adapter plate i don't know if there is enough space. You could PM beachbuggy turbos what thickness he used cause he managed to fit it on RHD cars.
Did read you used solidworks. I could send you de part file to make life easy :wink: Then at least you have the dimensions for stud pattern, stud angle and exhaust runner port position.

A leon intercooler? never seen one. Is it from the TFSI engine or the older 1.8T? and do you run the charge pipe down the bottem around the auxillary belt or plan to run it up top like the old one did? (tried that to keep OEM look but could not fit a 2.5' in [smiley=bigcry.gif] )
What SMF and pressure plate?

Will be running stock rods for now so limited to 350 bhp and 400NM (do run 440 something now but it's bit high for my liking)


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## NickG

This thread is very interesting! Love a good project thread and it seems you are doing some quality work! Good luck going forward


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## Duggy

Very good so far, keep it up

John


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## hang your idols

Mate,do yourself a favor:fit the rods first!Why?Because 400nm it`s to much torque,this happend to me at 402nm :x 
Btw,nice build thread,i was thinking to fit the K04 TFSI as well,but to the end i chose a different turbo, TD04 16T,i`m after similar power like you 330-350cp and 450nm torque.
Good luck with your build,it`s very interesting :wink:


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## Beunhaas

Little update. Got the last parts so finished op mocking the pipework. Made some stainless weld bungs for the DV, PCV, EGT, and the little hose that comes form the N80 (what is it for??)










Downpipe and decat that will be connected to the OEM catback. All v-band for easy change of dcat when MOT come.










Charge pipe running in front of auxiliary belt. Clearance is thigh but might work.



















new 3' TIP. The engine cover will still fit back on










And lasercutted a new turbo support bracket










Al the pipework will be welded up next week.
The i started to disassemble everything and rebuild it with all gaskets in and using the correct torque spec for all bolts and nuts. You can see that the thicker adapter plate allows me to use the OEM studs in the head.



















Bolted the turbo on the the adapterplate and started working on the oil and water lines. Made a stainless coolant spacer for the thicker adapterplate.










Bolted up the coolant feed from the block to te turbo










and installed the oil return line










thats how it sits now. Maybe with al the water and oil lines connected i wil try to start it and see what it sound like with no exhaust :twisted:


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## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Mate,do yourself a favor:fit the rods first!Why?Because 400nm it`s to much torque,this happend to me at 402nm :x
> Btw,nice build thread,i was thinking to fit the K04 TFSI as well,but to the end i chose a different turbo, TD04 16T,i`m after similar power like you 330-350cp and 450nm torque.
> Good luck with your build,it`s very interesting :wink:


Thanks mate. Rods will be upgraded maybe later but for now keeping torque low down in low revs will do it for now. Asked the tuner and he said it's on the limit of stock rods but safe.


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## Beunhaas

Oke it's been a while since the last update.

Car has gatered some dust in meantime










So finally all exhaust and intake pipework is TIG welded.





































Heat wrapped the exhaust and installed on the car










downpipe is tight. Had undo downpipe from turbo because the propshaft didn't go back on.









Removed the magnetic transferbox plug before filling the gearbox and was pretty shocked. Is this normal??










Started the car with the downpipe on. Some nice little pops already.

Tied the cable form the horns up










Installed the red diesel dog bone from Powerflex. Can't feel any difference in vibrations for now.










The car is now running on actuator pressure. Feels terrible slow :lol: Hoping to get it mapped soon.
In the meantime found a little mod that's pretty cheap and easy. Ordered a pair of 300mm S4 V8 rear rotors for a little upgrade on the rear to balance the porsche fronts.










Redrillend the PCD, made some hubcentric rings and machined the swept area on the front face so the unswept area can be painted to prevent rust.










Bracket will be waterjet cut soon.

Found that the coolant after run pump has died so need to order new one. Any advice to buy from dealer or order a Bosch one?

Thats the progress so far. Wil post the resuts on the rollers when finished.


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## Gonzalo1495

hang your idols said:


> Mate,do yourself a favor:fit the rods first!Why?Because 400nm it`s to much torque,this happend to me at 402nm :x
> Btw,nice build thread,i was thinking to fit the K04 TFSI as well,but to the end i chose a different turbo, TD04 16T,i`m after similar power like you 330-350cp and 450nm torque.
> Good luck with your build,it`s very interesting :wink:


Not exactly true. I'm pushing well over 404nm (getting the torque limit CEL because of it) and have not snapped a rod or anything close. This is because your tune probably had too much torque very close to the bottom end. A well versed 1.8T tuner can accommodate this quite easily and well as hp. Just take a look at the GTT hybrid from GTS. Well over the 300's on stock engine lol. It's all about the tune [smiley=book2.gif]


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## longodds

Lovely workmanship.


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## jamman

I love how if you need a bit you just make it, good work.


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## NickG

As others have said, brilliant build so far! Wish I had half your skills for fabrication! 8)


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## duttytd

Defo got my eyes on this!

You've got some skills my friend.


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## hang your idols

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Not exactly true. I'm pushing well over 404nm (getting the torque limit CEL because of it) and have not snapped a rod or anything close. This is because your tune probably had too much torque very close to the bottom end. A well versed 1.8T tuner can accommodate this quite easily and well as hp. Just take a look at the GTT hybrid from GTS. Well over the 300's on stock engine lol. It's all about the tune [smiley=book2.gif]


I don`t understand your statement,what do you mean too much torque very close to the bottom end ? 

*Beunhass* very nice job,looking good :wink:


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## Beunhaas

Finally the moment was there. The TT went on the rollers today for a custom remap.

The N75 of the tfsi k04 does indeed work with the 1.8t ecu 

After multiple runs car started to scream like a pig when on boost. Turned out the new OEM filter (200 km) couldn't supply the airflow. So an K&N filter was installed and now the sound has gone.

Boost was turned up to 1.5 bar and car couldn't make more than 320 HP and 402 NM on 98 octane. [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
After a few bottles of ethanol and aprox 102 octane, on new run the car made 340 HP and 440 NM 8) 
Pretty happy with the results considering 36 degree C ambient temperature and running those poor stock rods :lol: . Car goes pretty well now.

I will post the dyno plot later.

Now finishing the 300mm rear brake upgrade.


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## NickG

Some nice figures there then! 

Well done for all your hard work!


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## conlechi

Very good figures on the higher octane , bet you're pleased with them  how does it drive , what's the mid range like ?


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## Delta4

Subsribed 8)


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## hang your idols

Nice power 320hp,but i thought you will be close to 350-360hp and 450nm;you need a bigger air filter,maybe that is the issue.
What injectors are you using?Maybe you need 4bar FPR and in line fuel pump?


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## Grahamstt

Didn't realise the TFSI K04 could produce this sort of power -- watching with interest

Well done with the commitment and workmanship
[smiley=thumbsup.gif]


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## Beunhaas

conlechi said:


> Very good figures on the higher octane , bet you're pleased with them  how does it drive , what's the mid range like ?


Yeah couldn't wish for more. From 3000 turbo starts spooling and from 3700 is just wants to go. Pulls to the limiter no problem and bounces of like it's got breath for 1000 more rpm :lol:


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## Beunhaas

Grahamstt said:


> Didn't realise the TFSI K04 could produce this sort of power -- watching with interest
> 
> Well done with the commitment and workmanship
> [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


The K04-064 is a beautiful thing. No big lag and people got 380 HP from it on the 2.0 TFSI engines so there might be more potential in it on the 1.8T with some stronger rods.

Nothing feels better than making your own parts and making good results!


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## Beunhaas

Dyno plots as promised.

Forgot to mention earlier that i changed the original spark plugs for the colder NGK PFR7S8EG part number 06H905601A.


RON 98


RON 102


Almost stock looking engine bay


Nice little detail


Couldn't resist to make a quick photo with the supercharged R8 :lol:


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## jamman

Lovin this build

BUT

Dump the badge its 'orrible


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## NickG

Looking at the graphs your drivetrain losses are much lower then the losses I saw on the Rollingb Road day figures... Anyone have any theory behind this?


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## jamman

NickG said:


> Looking at the graphs your drivetrain losses are much lower then the losses I saw on the Rollingb Road day figures... Anyone have any theory behind this?


Different RR manufacturers etc etc

DO NOT get hung up on dyno figures


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## NickG

How do they calculate the power at the fly? Presumably a calculation from WHP?

Yeah number chasing is definitely a dangerous game! I can tell you mine is around about.... Fast enough, and that's all that counts!!


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## Beunhaas

NickG said:


> Looking at the graphs your drivetrain losses are much lower then the losses I saw on the Rollingb Road day figures... Anyone have any theory behind this?


Like jamman said different RR. Maybe the new oil in combination with the heat making it thinner giving less friction. I do have to say that de haldex was a bit nervous and car started to oscilate on the rollers distributing power between front and rear so pulled the haldex connector in the rear running fwd mode.

But powerdelivery feels soo good. Couldn't resist taking it for a spin this afternoon and with even with 36.5 Degree C it flies.


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## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Nice power 320hp,but i thought you will be close to 350-360hp and 450nm;you need a bigger air filter,maybe that is the issue.
> What injectors are you using?Maybe you need 4bar FPR and in line fuel pump?


Yeah maybe i will try a jetex cone filter some time but for now the K&N panel filter wil do the job.
The injectors are the 630CC genesis injectors form USRT. The bigger injectors give the ability to keep the 3 bar FPR so the fuelpump doesn't get stressed too much. No fuel starvation at all at the higer rpms.

With the 102 octane boost can be turned up (running 1.5 bar now) but the poor rods won't like it :lol:


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## Beunhaas

Little update

Installed DS2500 pads in the boxster S calipers. OEM porsche textar didn't had the intital cold bite the DS2500 gave me on the original calipers.



Had to drill holes for the wear indicator as the backing plate has the cut outs but the pad has'nt



Initial cold bite was back almost instant without much brake in process.

Made some brackets for the 300mm S4 V8 rear bbk.




gave them a primer paint and made some 68mm 65mm hubcentric rings + fresh carrier bolts


rotor size difference


grinded the lip off the dust shield and applied some rust preventing primer


bracket fitted perfectly. Hate how the OEM rotors have rust on the inner and outer edge. Desiged so now the pad covers the entire surface of the rotor. No rusty rings for me 8) 




some before after pics





Deffinitly a change in brake performance. Haven't tested it at high speed yet but can feel the car doesn't nose dive that much anymore with the 330mm boxster S on the front


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## Madmax199

Great build, subscribed!


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## Mr_Smith

Any updates mate? Doing the rods and cranking up the boost?


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## Beunhaas

Mr_Smith said:


> Any updates mate? Doing the rods and cranking up the boost?


Not much yet. Want to do rods but doing it on the drive in the cold i think its going to happen in spring.

DMF is shot after 15K km and about 2500 km with the new turbo :lol: So now looking for a sachs SMF and with new rods in try some 5K rev launches :twisted:

Did som logging on the new setup and still going strong. FMIC works pretty well and iat drops to 3 degree above ambient.


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## nate42

What gear you used for the boost graph pull, I was expecting boost to hit 1.5bar earlier than 3600rpm?

Nice work so far!


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## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> What gear you used for the boost graph pull, I was expecting boost to hit 1.5bar earlier than 3600rpm?
> 
> Nice work so far!


Think it was 3rd. Should it be 4th gear?


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## nate42

Beunhaas said:


> Think it was 3rd. Should it be 4th gear?


There is no standard was just curious. Bigger the gear more time it has to build boost through rev range, so you should see boost a bit earlier.


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## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Think it was 3rd. Should it be 4th gear?
> 
> 
> 
> There is no standard was just curious. Bigger the gear more time it has to build boost through rev range, so you should see boost a bit earlier.
Click to expand...

I will make some new runs this week in 4th gear. Also interested to see if there is still timing pull on 102 fuel.

Did some reading in you build and is pretty awsome. Pushing 400 bhp on stock compression?


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## nate42

Beunhaas said:


> Pushing 400 bhp on stock compression?


Dropped the car to tuner on monday, so will have some news soon. Still stock engine yes, just rods. Your mixture target is quite lean, any explanation on that?


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## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pushing 400 bhp on stock compression?
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped the car to tuner on monday, so will have some news soon. Still stock engine yes, just rods. Your mixture target is quite lean, any explanation on that?
Click to expand...

Good times ahead then! 8)

0.85 is 12.5 AFR is about right for max power i thought [smiley=book2.gif] Maybe the lambda sensor is a bit off because it was a mixture of 98 octane with 20% pure bio ethanol

EFR6758 you have is capable of 450 hp. Was thinking about this one when SMF and rods are done myself.
http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/turbos-un ... d/a-32000/

Interested if you could make near 450 hp on stock compression :lol:


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## nate42

Are you planning to run on a mixture or it was done just to chase some numbers? These engine tend to get high EGT's and that is why richer is common when running on gas.

Stock engine probably struggles to flow +400hp no matter how much boost you throw at it. E85 ethanol blend could make wonders as then high compression is not an issue, E85 resists knock very well. I know more soon, but not expecting huge numbers at this point. With fully built engine 500hp should be possible with EFR6758. For me reliability and early/fast spool is more important than max hp figures.


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## Madmax199

nate42 said:


> What gear you used for the boost graph pull, I was expecting boost to hit 1.5bar earlier than 3600rpm?
> 
> Nice work so far!


I agree with Nate, it seems like a the combo is a little bit of a late spooler. You're not making power until 4,500 rpm where you're making 250 Wheel HP. That is kind of late for a small frame setup. My K04 hybrid for example makes 200 Wheel HP at 3,500 rpm --- 300 WHP at 4,000 rpm --- 350 WHP at 4,500 rpm. Your combo looks like it would have been a dream on 2.0l stroked motor, which would give some extra power and shift the powerband to the left to match the early grunt seen on the conventional K04 hybrids.

Also from the recent logs you posted I noticed the lean lambda request and resulting lambda actual. Not sure if the car is tuned, but that is way lean and just adding heat without any power to show for it. I bet you can keep EGT under 700 and gain a good chunk of headroom for power by rectifying the lambda curve to a healthy 0.80-0.81 lambda. Going above 0.85 is just a unnecessarily stressing the motor. I would look into getting this handled. Love the build btw!

* Edit* I didn't realize Nate had also posted warning you about the lean AFR curve. It's refreshing to see some sound observation and tuning advice on this forum. Good eye Nate!

I also don't believe the theory coined that it's the sensor being skewed by the fuel blend or being weak. The logged Lambda request is a good way to see that it's the tune that's asking for such lean AFR curve. The actual is meeting what's requested...


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> 0.85 is 12.5 AFR is about right for max power i thought [smiley=book2.gif]


That's theoretical best AFR for power. Ideal conditions rarely happens though. With the 1.8t specifically, using E85 which allows any lambda curve short of stoichometric under boost without knocking, I stopped recording an increase in TQ generated at about 0.82-0.83 lambda. Leaning out the mixture past that point and aiming towards the ideal 0.85 only adds heat (verified by a bump in EGT), and no power increase. On regular pump gas, the in-cylinder conditions are not near as favorable, and empirical knowledge shows that 0.80 lambda is about as much premium fuel allows on most forced-induced port-injected motors (including the 1.8t). Cheers!


----------



## Beunhaas

Thanks guys for your opinion. When the car was mapped it was running on 98 octane but then it started to pull timing back way to much to preventing knock and making only 300 hp something. We added bottles of ethanol to prevent knocking. Now i'm running always on 102 octane from germany. (Cheapest fuel 95 here in Holland is more expensive than the most expensive fuel 102 in germany :lol: )
Not chasing numbers. Want to make A solid 340 hp everyday



Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 0.85 is 12.5 AFR is about right for max power i thought [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> That's theorical best AFR for power. Ideal conditions rarely happens though. With the 1.8t specifically, using E85 which allows any lambda curve short of stoichometric under boost without knocking, I stopped recording an increase in TQ generated at about 0.82-0.83 lambda. Leaning out the mixture past that point and aiming towards the ideal 0.85 only adds heat (verified by a bump in EGT), and no power increase. On regular pump gas, the in-cylinder conditions are not near as favorable, and empirical knowledge shows that 0.80 lambda is about as much premium fuel allows on most forced-induced port-injected motors (including the 1.8t). Cheers!
Click to expand...

Appreciate the feedback especially with the 1.8t in reality. I think/hope spool isnt that fast because the stock rods. If i log n75 duty cycle i can check whether the turbo is hold back am i right?

Sachs SMF and IE rods are on the planning for spring.

Definitly will contact my tuner about some little map tweaks


----------



## Madmax199

Yeah, running that lean would definitely induce knock and limit power generated. I believe that's what you were experiencing on the first dyno runs before adding some alcohol to suppress the knock. You're right, logging the boost solenoid (n75) will tell you if boost is held back in the tune to protect the standard rods. Regardless, some fuel curve adjustments are needed, the car will be much healthier and powerful after it's revised. Good thinking with the plan to add upgraded rods!


----------



## Beunhaas

Did some more logging last week. All runs were in 4th gear, 102 octane and 19 degree Celcius ambient.

Am i right concluding the next few things:
-AFR is still a bit lean
-N75 valve is holding back boost and spool
-Timing BTDC is very low (saw some graphs from madmax last week around 30 degree if i remember right?)
-Timing retardation max of only 3 degrees allows for more boost and more timing advance

what do you guys think?


----------



## cam69

Of you run a lamda of 0.8 or slightly under it should take more timing. But my stage 2 stock ko4 runs about around 15 timing advance max so I would not say your advance is to bad.


----------



## Madmax199

Bottom line is your fuel curve (request and actual) are way above optimal. "Lean is mean" as they say, so you're adding unnecessary stress and heat on the motor and making less power than you should as a result. Fix that lambda curve by requesting 0.80 throughout and you will be able to add the timing that the fuel can take.

The type of fuel used is the main factor in how much timing can be used before the ECU senses knock and start pulling timing. With the fuel you are using (102 RON which is slightly above 93 premium here in the US at 94.5 octane). That timing map is weak and could be much better (providing that the requested lambda curve is rectified in the mapping). E85 for example, (110 octane US rating, which would be about 130 RON) is capable of maximizing the timing the engine could use (MBT) without a hint of knock. Therefore fix your fueling and you'll be able to make more power with a more efficient burn... and a better timing curve.

As far as N75 holding boost back, I think it's more the nature of the turbo. It's doesn't matter how early max duty cycle is requested, the turbo can't be forced to spool faster than it physically can. Unless you find some exhaust or other mechanical restrictions, that's just the nature of the beast and something you may have to live with.


----------



## Beunhaas

Litte update

Did fit a pair of comfort blinkers and at the mean time fixed the climate control buzz and made al little DIY: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1135665) The kit is plug and play all with OEM connectors.


Received this package.


A OEM aero wiper kit for LHD audi TT Partnumber 8N1 998 401. I like the lower design a lot more and they work quiter and better.



There wasn't much to do to the car so decided to buy a compression tester and do a little engine check.
removed the sparkplugs and looked like this. Somebody experience what the plugs should look like after 2500 KM?
#1

#2

#3

#4


Pressures
#1

#2

#3

#4


What you guys think about the sparkplugs and compression values??


----------



## CollecTTor

Were these numbers from a cold motor? They're a little low IMO but not much difference between cylinders, so that's good.

Bentley states: New Cylinders (145-203 psi) Wear limit (102 psi) Maximum difference between cylinders 44 psi


----------



## Beunhaas

CollecTTor said:


> Were these numbers from a cold motor? They're a little low IMO but not much difference between cylinders, so that's good.
> 
> Bentley states: New Cylinders (145-203 psi) Wear limit (102 psi) Maximum difference between cylinders 44 psi


engine was hot, 90 degree coolant temp.

what about the sparkplugs?


----------



## CollecTTor

Beunhaas said:


> CollecTTor said:
> 
> 
> 
> Were these numbers from a cold motor? They're a little low IMO but not much difference between cylinders, so that's good.
> 
> Bentley states: New Cylinders (145-203 psi) Wear limit (102 psi) Maximum difference between cylinders 44 psi
> 
> 
> 
> engine was hot, 90 degree coolant temp.
> 
> what about the sparkplugs?
Click to expand...

Too new to tell? :lol: They look barely used. How many miles on the motor? How many since the conversion? Sorry, haven't read the whole thread. Can you repeat the compression test with a little oil added to each cylinder? If not, it doesn't matter, there's nothing you can do for the compression short of tearing the motor apart. Just curious if the valve stem seals may be leaking due to age/EGT's and if that's contributing to the lower compression numbers.


----------



## Madmax199

The plugs look fine, they just show some lean combustion.


----------



## Beunhaas

Car has don 145000 km and about 2500 km with this new turbo.

I will do a wet compression test with a spoon of engine oil in each cilinder when the weather gets a bit better :lol:



Madmax199 said:


> The plugs look fine, they just show some lean combustion.


Yeah just like you mentioned from the logs. Thanks!


----------



## NickG

Beunhaas said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> Short introduction. I'm a Dutch student mechenical engineering owning a tt 180 as first car at the age of 19  . 2 Years later decided i wanted more power and enjoy the quattro so i bought a 225 quattro in avus silver.
> The 225 is mapped to around 260 HP i got from logging the maf readings and deviding by 0.8.
> 
> I do read this great forum since i got my first TT 4 years ago but now started to do a K04 TFSI turbo conversion and decided it might be a good idea to start a building thread.
> 
> I like taking pics of mods i do so hold on :lol:
> 
> some photos from both the silver 180 and the 225 avus silver tt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the look of the gloss black grills on the TT QS so off the grills went.
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky enough we have a sand blasting machine at work so the honeycomb was piece of cake preparing it for painting.
> Pretty happy with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then i picked up these boys.
> 
> 
> 
> These are porsche boxster S or regular 911 front calipers. They have the 36 and 40mm pistons for the nice feeling and match with the OEM master cylinder. Wanted to use the 312mm rotors to keep the weight down. Result: 3 kg weight saving per corner. And again back to the sand blasting machine
> 
> 
> 
> Fresh coat of original porsche red color.
> 
> 
> 
> Decals applied. Don't like the porsche so Brembo went on.
> 
> 
> 
> Since i study mechanical engineering brackets where no problem. Drawed them in solidworks, did some fatique simulations, shaved some further weight off and a local machine shop machined them from aluminum.
> 
> 
> 
> Installed them but Needed a spacer for clearance with the original TT 9 spoke rims. Only spacers a had were 20 mm resulting in little rubbing inside the fenders. :x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summerwheels went on still with the 20mm spacers.
> 
> 
> 
> And washed the car 8)
> 
> 
> 
> After a little inverstigation decided to improve handling before adding more power. Ordered apex 40mm lowering springs, R32 arb's from the dealer, new bushes, bolts etc. While dropping subframe it would be rude not to add cookbots so they were ordered as well. Install isn't thad difficult just takes time while doing on axle stands.
> 
> Old subframe pulled.
> 
> 
> 
> New bushes with cookbots pressed in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fresh setup ready to go back on.
> 
> 
> 
> Got a sticky piston on one of the calipers so fixed that while car was on axle stands. Not completely gone but better.
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get rid of the small rubbing that happened on speedbumps so ordered some new things for a better brake setup 8)
> The rotors are Brembo 330 X 28 mm from an Alfa Brera v6. A nice step up from the 312 mm rotors with the right depth of the bell to fix the rubbing problem on the fenders. This rotor is biggest you can fit in this boxster S caliper.
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered some new Hell braided brake lines because the old goodrigde braided lines where leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> The rotors needs to be redrilled to the 5X100 PCD and spigot rings where made for the correct hub size. The old carriers a designed where updated for the new rotors. Also painted the rotors to protect them from rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> comparison with the OEM 312 X 25mm rotors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and fitted 8)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a 11mm spacer is used and the rubbing is gone and stil 1.6 Kg lighter per coner as OEM :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now. Will update this tomorrow about the K04 TFSI turbo conversion i'm doing at the moment [smiley=dude.gif]


Hey dude, just noticed you ditched your old boxster adaptors and made bigger ones for the larger disc! Don't suppose you have the old ones available still or even the CAD file you machined them from?


----------



## Beunhaas

Yes i have both if you are interested. I will send you a PM as soon as i'm home


----------



## NickG

Beunhaas said:


> Yes i have both if you are interested. I will send you a PM as soon as i'm home


Your a star, thank you!


----------



## Jordan4489

Beunhaas, I love what you are doing with this car! Your knowledge and craftsmanship Is amazing. I wish I had the time, knowledge and ££££££ to even consider this lol!

Keep up the good work.


----------



## NickG

Also, what did you use to get such a good finish on the Red calipers?


----------



## Beunhaas

Jordan4489 said:


> Beunhaas, I love what you are doing with this car! Your knowledge and craftsmanship Is amazing. I wish I had the time, knowledge and ££££££ to even consider this lol!
> 
> Keep up the good work.


Thanks mate!


----------



## Beunhaas

NickG said:


> Also, what did you use to get such a good finish on the Red calipers?


I blasted the calipers to the bare aluminum with glas pearls in a cabin on my work. A good degreasing and then used an spray can aluminum primer 2 layers. Two red layers of motip spray can and finally the Brembo decals. No clear laquer or something on top because the laquer was peeling from the original painting when it gets verry hot while breaking.


----------



## Beunhaas

Got a package today with some new parts!!
Now what will be in there? :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Little update.

The clutch is dying and shifting is terrible. On slow speeds the car bounces back and forth like there are no springs in the DMF at all. :lol: 
Since it's cristmas i thought it was a good excuse to get an Sachs SMF. 8)

Are there people on here running (sachs) SMF?

Hope to fit it soon. Some pictures of the pure machining craftmanship of the Sachs brand.
Couldn't resist to put it on the scale.


----------



## NickG

If nothing else, it looks AWESOME!

Wonder how much the standard setup weighs!!


----------



## craigt1985

Have been following this thread for a little while as I'm looking at doing a TFSI turbo swap myself, thoroughly impressed with how you've gone about it! Have been looking at the adaptor kits, but have the facilities to get it made myself and definitely prefer the built not bought approach you seem to have. If you could do anything again would you do anything different? Being very cheeky, do you still have a .dwg file for your adaptor?


----------



## nate42

I'm running that exact clutch package I believe. Pedal is a bit heavier due to that heavy duty pressure plate, but bite is just like OEM clutch. So parallel parking etc city manoeuvring is not a problem. You will find that the clutch will sometimes "sing" (rattle :lol: ) at idle. Fuildampr pulley cured that problem almost completely, it is easy to install afterwards if you don't like the sound.


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> I'm running that exact clutch package I believe. Pedal is a bit heavier due to that heavy duty pressure plate, but bite is just like OEM clutch. So parallel parking etc city manoeuvring is not a problem. You will find that the clutch will sometimes "sing" (rattle :lol: ) at idle. Fuildampr pulley cured that problem almost completely, it is easy to install afterwards if you don't like the sound.


Now that's some good news. A bit heavier pedal i will get used to, and the oem bite is more important for me as a daily. Will see what chatter it will give. Heard that overfilling the gearbox a bit or alter the idle speed a bit wil do the trick somethimes. If it's still too much for my liking a fluidampr pully is the way forward then!

Next weekend it's time to have a little wrestling with the gearbox :lol:

In the meantime i started to make a new shoppinglist for a new turbo :twisted:


----------



## craigt1985

Oooh going TFSI hybrid?


----------



## Beunhaas

Nope, EFR 6758 but hot end is drop-in. So in some way a bit of a hybrid K04.


----------



## Beunhaas

Bit of an update on the build.

Started changing de oem dmf clutch for a Sachs SMF conversion.

Wanted to do it on the drive on axle stands but luckily i didnt because its is an terrible accecible job. Especially with the k04 tfsi turbo and 3" dp in there.



Made a little engine support and after 5 hours this came out



Installed a fresh new slave cylinder in there and then had some look at the old clutch.



As i expected and felt from driving the DMF is dead. I was amazed it were still two connected pieces. Look at this [smiley=bigcry.gif] 



Clutch started slipping somethines with this cold weather and the dmf and pressure plate didnt like it :lol: 



So out with the old crap (original Sachs also only 20K km) and in with the new





Then i did a first attempt to reinstall the gearbox.
Well, because the friction disc wasnt perfectly centered i could not get the spline in there :x

Recentered the friction disk again and will do a second attempt today 

So thats where its now


----------



## nate42

Surprisingly heavy that gear box or what! I used some general clutch alignment tool and gearbox slid in place quite easily. Almost forgot to put back in place that long bolt inside the drive shaft :lol:

Fill the slave cylinder with brake fluid at this point as the clutch is a bit of a pain to bleed. This will make the job easier.


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> Surprisingly heavy that gear box or what! I used some general clutch alignment tool and gearbox slid in place quite easily. Almost forgot to put back in place that long bolt inside the drive shaft :lol:
> 
> Fill the slave cylinder with brake fluid at this point as the clutch is a bit of a pain to bleed. This will make the job easier.


That box is ineed incredible heavy. Luckily i could put some transmission jacks under it and raising the bridge made the box come out. But the spaghetti of power steering lines is a pita.

Thanks for the tip mate! I asume you connected a hose on it and pushed on the slave cylinder to suck the oil in there?

Am i right the last 2 cm the box cant be pushed on because preloading the slave cylinder? So pulling it tight with the bolts? Or should it slide completely on there with the bell housing completely against the by it self?


----------



## nate42

Can't remember any more how close it went with just pushing. I also had the gearbox already connected when I remembered to fill the slave cylinder. Used injection needle to slowly fill it. Just remember that it still took some time before the clutch felt good, had to play with bleed valve a few times. Transparent hose on the bleed valve was good so it was easy to detect any bubbles.


----------



## Beunhaas

Got the gearbox finally in and bolted up. Now its just a matter of reconnecting the transferbox, shafts, shifter cables and electrics. [smiley=dude.gif]

Filled the slave cylinder all the way up before fitting the gearbox so part of that squirted out when it went back on :lol:


----------



## cookbot

Beunhaas said:


> Filled the slave cylinder all the way up before fitting the gearbox so part of that squirted out when it went back on :lol:


All over the drive plate? :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

cookbot said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Filled the slave cylinder all the way up before fitting the gearbox so part of that squirted out when it went back on :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> All over the drive plate? :lol:
Click to expand...

Hahah no thank god not. On the inside plastic splashguard and on my chest :lol:


----------



## 3TT3

Aww I missed all the fun of a diy clutch change(not)
You got a pic of the old friction plate, just for interest ?
ta


----------



## Beunhaas

3TT3 said:


> Aww I missed all the fun of a diy clutch change(not)
> You got a pic of the old friction plate, just for interest ?
> ta


I will take some pictures of it tomorrow. It did look quite good to be honest.


----------



## CollecTTor

Beunhaas said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Aww I missed all the fun of a diy clutch change(not)
> You got a pic of the old friction plate, just for interest ?
> ta
> 
> 
> 
> I will take some pictures of it tomorrow. It did look quite good to be honest.
Click to expand...

It's going to look just like the FW. :wink:


----------



## Beunhaas

Oke finished the clutch job this weekend.

Didn't went as expected.

While i opened the clutch bleeder i broke the top half off so off to the dealer that had a new one the same day. Stupid plastic shit. [smiley=bomb.gif] 


Second try bleeding the clutch, i could not get any flow at all from the brake resevoir to the bleeder. Guess what, clutch master cylinder flipped the seal [smiley=bomb.gif]

New trip to the dealer. Original part had 2 revisions in the meantime boosting the price from 60 to 120 euro's for a new one. [smiley=bigcry.gif]

The flipped seal causes the master cylinder to be unable to build pressure and doesn't refill from the small pipe on top.


New master cylinder and clutch pedal assembly ready to put back in the car. Interestting is the fact that you UK guys have a weak failing metal clutch pedal while ours (people who have the steeringwheel on the correct side) have a plastic one that looks way more rigid.



Bleeding the clutch on the 3rd attempt. Took quite a while to build up pressure on the pedal. Filled lines, slave cylinder and bleeder valve all with brake oil before bleeding the clutch. Only 5 or 6 little air bells is the difference between no clutch and a hard pedal.

Now the clutch verdict:
Pedal is the same for biting point, slipperyness and force. Holds all the power and torque no problem right after 5 KM or so.
The vibration while accelerating in lower RPMS is quite noticable :?

On a cold start the clutch is completely silent while idling.

Little movie of the car idling with aircon on after a normal drive.


But after some spirited driving it's like a man with a machinegun is living inside the gearbox [smiley=smash.gif]


Would i recommend it, yeah if you don't mind the vibration on low RPM acceleration and don't care about the idle chatter


----------



## Madmax199

I don't know how people live with that stuff on a daily basis and claim it's not too bad. At least it'll hold the power and serves a purpose. Good job on the install!


----------



## NickG

Blimey that chatters!!! Sounds broken perminantly... But... Function over form, needs must!


----------



## CollecTTor

Increase idle torque and add some fluid to transmission to dampen the noise. More importantly, why is it vibrating at lower rpms?


----------



## TT Tom TT

Funnily enough my SMF doesn't chatter at all unless in neutral and even then it's not very loud at all although mine is CG rather than Sachs. Did you weigh your SMF before you fitted it?


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> I don't know how people live with that stuff on a daily basis and claim it's not too bad. At least it'll hold the power and serves a purpose. Good job on the install!


It does its job but the sound is indeed terrible so that has to be reduced by a lot

Edit: i don't see a clutch in your signature but cant believe its stil a stock DMF right?


----------



## Beunhaas

CollecTTor said:


> Increase idle torque and add some fluid to transmission to dampen the noise. More importantly, why is it vibrating at lower rpms?


Thanks. Will do that. Do you think 3 liters of gearbox oil should be enough instead of 2,6? Or would that be too much?


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Funnily enough my SMF doesn't chatter at all unless in neutral and even then it's not very loud at all although mine is CG rather than Sachs. Did you weigh your SMF before you fitted it?


As collecTTor mentioned, the map can also alter the chatter so thats another variable to take into account why some do and some don't,

Flywheel was 7,2 kg
Whole clutch package was 14.2 kg


----------



## Von Twinzig

Fook! That is loud. Mine's only a little chattery at idle, nothing really. Hot or cold is the same. I'm running Motul Gear 300 75W-90 in the box.

VT


----------



## Bago47

OEM DMF weighs about 11kg, SMF you got is with 7.2kg pretty lightweight. Choosing a heavier SMF results in less noise chatter, so keep that in mind!

Lighter flywheels also means that engine spins quicker, and also looses revs quicker. It really depends what you're aiming for, but I know for sure I'm going after a SMF in the 9-10kg range.


----------



## Beunhaas

If the software alterations in combination with some extra oil in the gearbox dont reduce the sound enough i will take a look in an oil change. Thanks for the suggestion.

7.2 kg is a normal weight for the SMF conversion and light weight is something like 3.5 kg or so.
I could not find a SMF with the same as DMF weight.


----------



## nate42

It's louder than I remembered  Fluidampr pulley will cure that, easy to install too. Only down side is that it expensive if I remember right. I try actively forget the prices of already bought parts :lol: 
Changing Idle RPM is something you can try to make it more silent. I got some results with that and A/C off when at stop. After a while got tired of rattles and bought Fluidampr.


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how people live with that stuff on a daily basis and claim it's not too bad. At least it'll hold the power and serves a purpose. Good job on the install!
> 
> 
> 
> It does its job but the sound is indeed terrible so that has to be reduced by a lot
> 
> Edit: i don't see a clutch in your signature but cant believe its stil a stock DMF right?
Click to expand...

I have a custom clutch with full upgraded disc, high load pressure plate and a DMF. I decided to stick with the DMF design for the obvious reasons, but mine is with a twist (happy now that I went that way). My clutch builder modified the DMF with stiffer springs to increase the load capacity. Yes, doing so it moved the harmonics to an unknown rpm, but we know that it'll hold and dampen higher TQ figures. The setup is totally quiet with zero vibration, and you couldn't tell it's not OEM except for a lighter pedal feel.


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> If the software alterations in combination with some extra oil in the gearbox dont reduce the sound enough i will take a look in an oil change. Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> 7.2 kg is a normal weight for the SMF conversion and light weight is something like 3.5 kg or so.
> I could not find a SMF with the same as DMF weight.


Rasing the idle TQ, and a fluid damper will make a big difference in how loud it is (possibly the type and amount of fluid too as Adam pointed). The clicky clacking inside of your box will remain however, just muzzled by the changes. The harmonics need to be cancelled at or dampened at that rpm, and a DMF is the only sure way to do it!


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> It's louder than I remembered  Fluidampr pulley will cure that, easy to install too. Only down side is that it expensive if I remember right. I try actively forget the prices of already bought parts :lol:
> Changing Idle RPM is something you can try to make it more silent. I got some results with that and A/C off when at stop. After a while got tired of rattles and bought Fluidampr.


Did a quick search on the price of those pluidampr. 400$ :?

Lets try software alterations first and then different oil or a pulley. Prices, yeah i don't like remembering myself about them either :lol:



Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the software alterations in combination with some extra oil in the gearbox dont reduce the sound enough i will take a look in an oil change. Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> 7.2 kg is a normal weight for the SMF conversion and light weight is something like 3.5 kg or so.
> I could not find a SMF with the same as DMF weight.
> 
> 
> 
> Rasing the idle TQ, and a fluid damper will make a big difference in how loud it is (possibly the type and amount of fluid too as Adam pointed). The clicky clacking inside of your box will remain however, just muzzled by the changes. The harmonics need to be cancelled at or dampened at that rpm, and a DMF is the only sure way to do it!
Click to expand...




Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how people live with that stuff on a daily basis and claim it's not too bad. At least it'll hold the power and serves a purpose. Good job on the install!
> 
> 
> 
> It does its job but the sound is indeed terrible so that has to be reduced by a lot
> 
> Edit: i don't see a clutch in your signature but cant believe its stil a stock DMF right?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a custom clutch with full upgraded disc, high load pressure plate and a DMF. I decided to stick with the DMF design for the obvious reasons, but mine is with a twist (happy now that I went that way). My clutch builder modified the DMF with stiffer springs to increase the load capacity. Yes, doing so it moved the harmonics to an unknown rpm, but we know that it'll hold and dampen higher TQ figures. The setup is totally quiet with zero vibration, and you couldn't tell it's not OEM except for a lighter pedal feel.
Click to expand...

Hmmm sounds like a good package. Lets see if i can get my old DMF open to see wat the possible future options are. [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## Beunhaas

Oke, made some pictures of the old clutch as requested.

It was a stock LUK DMF (could not find partnumber on it)
Stock Sachs pressure plate partnumber 1878004698
Stock Sachs friction disc partnumber 3082311641

There are lots of people saying DMF and pressure plate should be from the same brand. Here you have it. It don't! 

Friction disc has quite a lot of meat left on it.


----------



## Beunhaas

A year after the turbo conversion, MOT needed to be done.

Everything was fine exept one thing. The emissions where sky high, but hey no suprise with a decat 

I don't like race cats and their price tags so some old metal, an spare v band and a few welding hours later the frankenstein was born.

Remember, all parts on my car are original/unmodified and i can (if i need) convert my car back to a stock 225.







Didn't need to warm up the cat, passed straight with very low values.

And while doing the exhaust i decided to measure the volume the decat makes.
3' downpipe, stock cat, stock catback: 82 Decibel
3' downpipe, decat, stock catback: 87 Decibel
3' downpipe only: 98 Decibel :twisted:

I will do some VCDS boost logs later, with and without exhaust to see if it makes much difference in spool.

little sound clip:


----------



## 3TT3

Nice job!
Correct me if Im wrong , but isnt that a bit ondeugend :lol:


----------



## NickG

You've just really tempted me to ditch the back box entirely whilst I'm not competing and just exit after my decat pipe... 98db is basically a whisper! What rpm is that measures at??


----------



## cookbot

You just freewheel past the fun police noise box anyway :lol:


----------



## NickG

True that!!

The only problem I've just thought about is the air dam at the rear, well the rear valance... I guess this could just be removed though as a temporary measure too!


----------



## brushwood69

The void left where the backbox was is a large space which does act as a bit of an air brake. Removing valance and cutting in some holes will help but if does require a diffuser of sorts


----------



## Madmax199

brushwood69 said:


> The void left where the backbox was is a large space which does act as a bit of an air brake. Removing valance and cutting in some holes will help but if does require a diffuser of sorts


----------



## NickG

brushwood69 said:


> The void left where the backbox was is a large space which does act as a bit of an air brake. Removing valance and cutting in some holes will help but if does require a diffuser of sorts


I did consider maybe just a sheet of thin metal to close it off, won't look great at the valance mind you!


----------



## Beunhaas

3TT3 said:


> Nice job!
> Correct me if Im wrong , but isnt that a bit ondeugend :lol:


Haha ondeugend has two meanings in dutch. Malfunctioning or naughty :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

NickG said:


> You've just really tempted me to ditch the back box entirely whilst I'm not competing and just exit after my decat pipe... 98db is basically a whisper! What rpm is that measures at??


 Revs at 4000 rpm but when boosting i think you will pass the 104 db limit that most circuits allow


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> brushwood69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The void left where the backbox was is a large space which does act as a bit of an air brake. Removing valance and cutting in some holes will help but if does require a diffuser of sorts
Click to expand...

Those massive slicks must feel like the car is on rails when there is some heat in them! 

Is an diffuser worth the time and effort over a big spoiler?


----------



## Beunhaas

Had a little bit of fun yesterday. Did some rolling starts against my mates Seat Leon cupra 280 DSG. All stock except panel filter and turbo muffler delete. Managed to pull a few car lengths away 

Its getting a remap to about 400 bhp so to combat this while the TT is waiting for a new turbo i bought this 8) 


Car is pulling strong but the stock airbox is a little asthmatic. Listen to the loud pitched noise :? 
And it sounds like some turbo flutter when shifting.


----------



## NickG

Smart bike, my sister-in-law races one just like that, same colours and everything!

Car does sound a little asthmatic doesn't it! :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Those massive slicks must feel like the car is on rails when there is some heat in them!
> 
> Is an diffuser worth the time and effort over a big spoiler?


Spoiler and diffuser are meant to work together and it's definitely worth the effort. I will say that my big rear spoiler had a bigger effect than the diffuser, but together they really hold the rear end down. I can't even get the rear to rotate or step out anymore at the usual spot, and I'm going to have to set zero rear toe (or some toe out ) to regain provoked rear rotation.


----------



## Beunhaas

Time for an update.

Last few months i enjoyed the bike when the weather allowed but some big things to come.


Had a good drive in the car last and decided 340 hp is getting normal, until i get in an other car that has something like 150 hp and i'm back on the ground with both feet :lol:



Had some hunting on ide so pressure tested the car to 3 bar. No leaks :x but the idle hunting is gone  


Second problem is the feeling of the engine flying around in the engine bay when hard upshifting or downshifting without revmatching. Is this normal for the engine mounts to have the large space between the rubber and the metal chassis bracket? or is it worn out?


I made a test rig to film the engine movement to see what happend while shifting. I will post the video later on.


Then on to the more exciting stuf. Car is limited on power because of the stock con rods. But after a year i want more power!  
So to begin the update for power these rifle drilled puppies arrived [smiley=sweetheart.gif] 



I will be ordering new belt kit and things from the dealers, a compresion lowering head gasket (8.5:1) and prehaps some new engine mounts.

Lets see where we end up this time


----------



## hang your idols

Good job with that rods  ;i see still you don`t have a proper air filter :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Some goodies for the engine overhaul arrived today. Paid 70€ for the complete set. Same as OEM although they wanted 65€ per cylinder


----------



## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Good job with that rods  ;i see still you don`t have a proper air filter :lol:


A RS4 maf housing coupled to my 3" tip and an ITG cone filter will be on the new setup


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Some goodies for the engine overhaul arrived today. Paid 70€ for the complete set. Same as OEM although they wanted 65€ per cylinder


I've bought these rings too !


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some goodies for the engine overhaul arrived today. Paid 70€ for the complete set. Same as OEM although they wanted 65€ per cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've bought these rings too !
Click to expand...

Good work!

Hope you didnt pay more than this?
http://www.cs-parts.de/index.php?a=261


----------



## bdc6570

Bloody amazing build thread 8) when you are free... It would be good to put up some "how to" .


----------



## nate42

I have somewhere a new set of 034 Motorsports engine mounts with track density rubbers. They were on the car for 500km, then read somewhere that they might not take the power I was after and bought Fluid Dynamics engine mounts. You can have them dirt cheap, PM if interested.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some goodies for the engine overhaul arrived today. Paid 70€ for the complete set. Same as OEM although they wanted 65€ per cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've bought these rings too !
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good work!
> 
> Hope you didnt pay more than this?
> http://www.cs-parts.de/index.php?a=261
Click to expand...

Hmmm, it seems as though I did - I paid 61.62 Including postage to the UK for a full set. Although that website doesn't say how much postage is so it could be similar I imagine.


----------



## Beunhaas

bdc6570 said:


> Bloody amazing build thread 8) when you are free... It would be good to put up some "how to" .


Thanks. What item would you like a how to about?

I think most is info about what parts i used is covered and more than enough pictures to see how it's done.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Hmmm, it seems as though I did - I paid 61.62 Including postage to the UK for a full set. Although that website doesn't say how much postage is so it could be similar I imagine.


I think as long as you haven't paid stealer price on these parts you did a good job 

Little note, hope you checked carefully as there are two versions. One for the sub 200 hp and one for the 200 hp up level. These got a special plasma sputter on the rings as coating.


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> I have somewhere a new set of 034 Motorsports engine mounts with track density rubbers. They were on the car for 500km, then read somewhere that they might not take the power I was after and bought Fluid Dynamics engine mounts. You can have them dirt cheap, PM if interested.


pm'd


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, it seems as though I did - I paid 61.62 Including postage to the UK for a full set. Although that website doesn't say how much postage is so it could be similar I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> I think as long as you haven't paid stealer price on these parts you did a good job
> 
> Little note, hope you checked carefully as there are two versions. One for the sub 200 hp and one for the 200 hp up level. These got a special plasma sputter on the rings as coating.
Click to expand...

"The top compression ring is specially treated !!!

The correct designations Tung loud idol of the material is " 005 hp" (Ring Type: Ring minutes + coating: plasma spraying coated) and this significantly more durable than normal rings from 0815 providers, especially in these supercharged engines."

Product group	Engine Parts
Reference Number (OE) 33	0811590000
Surface Finish	Coated
Article Numer	08-115900-00
Number of Units	4
Brand	GÖTZE
Reference Number (s) OEM	06A198151A
Manufacturer Part Number	Does Not Apply
MPN	08-115900-00
Other Article Number	0811590000
Reference Number (s) OEM 33	800045040000
Reference Number (s) OEM 22	0811590000
Measuring Unit	Unit
Reference Number (s) OEM 11	08-115900-00
Reference Number (OE) 22	08-115900-00
product Type	Piston Rings
Part Manufacturer	GÖTZE
Reference Number (OE)	06A 198 151 A
Reference Number (OE) 11	06A198151A

Bought from Germany so bad translation but it seems correct  ?


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, it seems as though I did - I paid 61.62 Including postage to the UK for a full set. Although that website doesn't say how much postage is so it could be similar I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> I think as long as you haven't paid stealer price on these parts you did a good job
> 
> Little note, hope you checked carefully as there are two versions. One for the sub 200 hp and one for the 200 hp up level. These got a special plasma sputter on the rings as coating.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "The top compression ring is specially treated !!!
> 
> The correct designations Tung loud idol of the material is " 005 hp" (Ring Type: Ring minutes + coating: plasma spraying coated) and this significantly more durable than normal rings from 0815 providers, especially in these supercharged engines."
> 
> Product group	Engine Parts
> Reference Number (OE) 33	0811590000
> Surface Finish	Coated
> Article Numer	08-115900-00
> Number of Units	4
> Brand	GÖTZE
> Reference Number (s) OEM	06A198151A
> Manufacturer Part Number	Does Not Apply
> MPN	08-115900-00
> Other Article Number	0811590000
> Reference Number (s) OEM 33	800045040000
> Reference Number (s) OEM 22	0811590000
> Measuring Unit	Unit
> Reference Number (s) OEM 11	08-115900-00
> Reference Number (OE) 22	08-115900-00
> product Type	Piston Rings
> Part Manufacturer	GÖTZE
> Reference Number (OE)	06A 198 151 A
> Reference Number (OE) 11	06A198151A
> 
> Bought from Germany so bad translation but it seems correct  ?
Click to expand...

Jup, thats the correct one! 

When are you going to do your rings? (And make a how to  )

I bought this engine assembly video that explains everything step by step. Quite good to be honest  
http://jazzpur.blogspot.nl


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Jup, thats the correct one!
> 
> When are you going to do your rings? (And make a how to  )
> 
> I bought this engine assembly video that explains everything step by step. Quite good to be honest
> http://jazzpur.blogspot.nl


I'm paying someone to do all the engine work, I don't have access to a ramp and the right tools so it would be a nightmare. With a guide I'd be able to do it with enough perseverance but I know a very good and very reasonably priced local mechanic with his own ramp etc so it's a no brainer !


----------



## Beunhaas

Went my Audi dealer today and picked up some fresh parts for the overhaul.

Partnumbers included for other people that want to upgrade their rods.

Timing belt kit (06A 198 119 B) including:
Timing belt (06B 109 119 A)
Reverse roll (06B 109 244)
Tensioner (06B 109 243 F)

And to make everything complete:
Waterpump (06A 121 012 GX)
Hydraulic damper (06B 109 477)

Rocker cover gasket (058 198 025 A)
Inlet manifold gasket (058 129 717 D)
Throttle body gasket (028 129 748)

And for the connecting rod upgrade:
Sump sealant (D 176 404 M2)
Rod bearings (034 105 701 007)
Head bolts (06A 103 385 A)

Cant wait to pull the head and start working on it.


----------



## lowlife89

Any chance you are interested in selling head to turbo adapters?

This build is an inspiration, congrats 8)


----------



## kane

Great work man, I'll be following this


----------



## StrokerTT32

Like the build! Soon gonna also go for K04 TFSI turbo in my MK1.

What did You do with fuel pump?
You still stick with oem catback and only 3" DP catless ? AS far as I know oem catback is pretty restrictive :/

The water , oil lines etc. for K04 are custom made? Or these are oe parts from Audi? Please let me know


----------



## Beunhaas

lowlife89 said:


> Any chance you are interested in selling head to turbo adapters?
> 
> This build is an inspiration, congrats 8)


Send cookbot a Pm on here. He got my cad drawings and makes them now.



kane said:


> Great work man, I'll be following this


Thanks!



SwIeRsZcZ said:


> Like the build! Soon gonna also go for K04 TFSI turbo in my MK1.
> 
> What did You do with fuel pump?
> You still stick with oem catback and only 3" DP catless ? AS far as I know oem catback is pretty restrictive :/
> 
> The water , oil lines etc. for K04 are custom made? Or these are oe parts from Audi? Please let me know


Stock fuelpump, stock 3bar fuel pressure and Genesis 2 630cc double frogger injectors. This should keep the stress down on the fuelpump. Next setup should be 450+ hp on stock fuelpump. Will see how that goes :lol:

Stock catback isnt the best out there but laughing at people who get a catback for a stock turbo because restrictive. Will keep the stock catback with new setup but using a exhaust cutout to dump after the downpipe when on boost.

Lines are from tij-power in germany but for the 300€ they cost i would make them my self next time. Oil feed and waterlines can be done with oem parts from an Audi with longitudinal engine but dont know exactly what model.

Make a build thread when you start the conversion


----------



## Beunhaas

Bad news first, the efr 6758 turbo is on back order. Estimated time 4 to 6 weeks [smiley=bigcry.gif]

So i spended some extra money.
People who say doing rods and rings is not that expensive. 200€ in specialized tools and running in oil :lol:

Got an brush research flex hone 240 grid silicon carbide
Feeler gauges
An ribe bit for the head bolts
A tool for the piston rings
And a piston ring compressor


An 3' maf from an Audi a8


And an modified headgasket to drop the compression to 8.5:1 (giving me a bonus 50cc of engine capacity  )


----------



## jamman

Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:


----------



## Matt B

Beunhaas said:


> Bad news first, the efr 6758 turbo is on back order. Estimated time 4 to 6 weeks


Where are you trying to buy it from - I was getting similar quotes when I was buying 7163. Ended up getting one on next day delivery just by trying a different supplier


----------



## Matt B

jamman said:


> Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

jamman said:


> Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:


Hahahaha.
Well, the yanks are voting to keep stock compression er even increasing it.
Zhe germans and UK decrease compression for more power above say 400 hp on stock displacement and thats what im going to do. If i dont like the lower compression or doesnt bring any benefits i can simply swap to a stock head gasket.


----------



## Beunhaas

Matt B said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news first, the efr 6758 turbo is on back order. Estimated time 4 to 6 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you trying to buy it from - I was getting similar quotes when I was buying 7163. Ended up getting one on next day delivery just by trying a different supplier
Click to expand...

I tried a shop here in Holland and turbozentrum DE. Both have 4 to 6 weeks back order time. The problem is that i dont want a 'normal' erf6758 but i want a version with integrated exhaust manifold. A bit like the k04 tfsi turbo's. Not that much supliers i could find online that sell these turbos.

Im looking for something like this:
http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/turbos-un ... d/a-32000/

What water and oil lines are you going to use on yours?

Any suggestions are more than welcome.


----------



## TT Tom TT

Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?


----------



## jamman

TT Tom TT said:


> Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?


Thomas I'd have a word with Max you can't trust any of us :wink: :lol:

But since you asked info below

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-Gasket-Set ... 0753778536


----------



## TT Tom TT

jamman said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?
> 
> 
> 
> Thomas I'd have a word with Max you can't trust any of us :wink: :lol:
> 
> But since you asked info below
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-Gasket-Set ... 0753778536
Click to expand...

This doesn't seem like the right part..?


----------



## NickG

TT Tom TT said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?
> 
> 
> 
> Thomas I'd have a word with Max you can't trust any of us :wink: :lol:
> 
> But since you asked info below
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-Gasket-Set ... 0753778536
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This doesn't seem like the right part..?
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: Really?!?


----------



## Beunhaas

jamman said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?
> 
> 
> 
> Thomas I'd have a word with Max you can't trust any of us :wink: :lol:
> 
> But since you asked info below
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-Gasket-Set ... 0753778536
Click to expand...

Hahaha this makes me laughing after a killing nightshift :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Where did you get the thicker head gasket from Beun?


They come in different thicknesses for different compression ratios. They use an OEM elring headgasket and add an extra layer of metal inbetween them.

http://wp-spezialteile.de/shop/index.ph ... rie&cat=45

I like zhe germans, but maybe you would need some Google translate


----------



## Matt B

Beunhaas said:


> Matt B said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news first, the efr 6758 turbo is on back order. Estimated time 4 to 6 weeks
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you trying to buy it from - I was getting similar quotes when I was buying 7163. Ended up getting one on next day delivery just by trying a different supplier
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried a shop here in Holland and turbozentrum DE. Both have 4 to 6 weeks back order time. The problem is that i dont want a 'normal' erf6758 but i want a version with integrated exhaust manifold. A bit like the k04 tfsi turbo's. Not that much supliers i could find online that sell these turbos.
> 
> Im looking for something like this:
> http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/turbos-un ... d/a-32000/
> 
> What water and oil lines are you going to use on yours?
> 
> Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Click to expand...

My friend and mechanic who works on the car will just make up oil and water lines using aeroquip fittings and the appropriate braided hoses. This is quite expensive but you can basically get them perfect.

I can certainly see the advantage of getting a turbo/manifold combo like this in terms of ease of installation - looks very neat


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Hahahaha.
> Well, the yanks are voting to keep stock compression er even increasing it.
> Zhe germans and UK decrease compression for more power above say 400 hp on stock displacement and thats what im going to do. If i dont like the lower compression or doesnt bring any benefits i can simply swap to a stock head gasket.
Click to expand...

I don't think displacement or the HP figure really have much to do with the choice of compression ratio. The "yanks" chose not to lower compression on a 225 motor because it's already lowered as it is (9.0:1) from the standard 9.5:1 that is in every other 1.8t. It's down to tuning philosophy I guess, and where you draw the line on how low you want CR to be on modern fuel. One thing I know for a fact, you better be ready to push boost and timing far beyond what is common knowledge in the UK tuning scene if you want to make up for the lowered CR... or it's really a pointless exercise.

For example, UK tuning powerhouse always questioned the boost and timing I ran on my 9.0:1 225 motor, well it's because it's a bloody 9.0:1 factory-lowered CR. Why would I not take advantage it if I'm running the low factory CR -- and if I wasn't, I might as well go for the 9.5:1 standard CR and cap boost/timing at a lower level.

Higher CR makes for a much more lively (less lazy) car off boost, 9.0:1 has been proven to take big boost and healthy timing on modern pump petrol (98 ron). So I think it's logical to not go for anything lower unless you: a) want a lazy car all around -- b) brewing some kind of fire-breathing monster that will run 35+ psi and loads of timing. If not, II don't see why anyone would purposely do such thing unless there is a lack of tuning talent.

As a point of reference, the 4G63T motor on the EVO (up to the IX model) came with the 8.5:1 ratio that you're about to run. It's common practice to push these at 30+ psi due to the low factory CR. This is understandable since the motor was designed with such low CR -- it is an early 90's technology Narrowband lambda-controlled motor as well as a reflection of the tuning and knock resistance of pump fuel of that era. For example, I ran my track EVO at 40 psi no problem for many years. If you look at any more recent turbocharged motor, you'll quickly realize that things have evolved. Yes, the direct port injection, and better technology overall has helped, but the main factor is the knowledge acquired on how to make the most of petrol available at the pump.

I take it that the "yanks" are not well liked here (or anywhere) for obvious reasons. However, there is a method to our madness. We're not exactly as stupid as it is believed in majestic Europe. All of it reflected by the power figures achieved on our cars VS the european 1.8T. Nobody can tell you what direction to take with your pride and joy, so take my post for what it is. Some perspective!

PS: Jamman, does our presence really bother you that much? Because if it does, I won't leave (something that you seem to have already achieved with your ways -- Adam (Collecttor) has stopped posting, and I was considering doing so myself).


----------



## jamman

Get a grip Max FFS I don't know you from Adam (English saying) and if you choose to never post again that's your choice nothing to do with me, many characters come and go on this forum.

Your mate Adam threw his toys out the cot when a few people (not me) called him out when he was being a bit of a twat if he can't handle that well poor him, if you can't take shit don't give it out its a freaking forum nothing more.

I will always rib Americans because of the way you all tend as a rule come across be it athletics, this forum, don't even get me started on politics....., do I hate Americans of course I don't you just make me smile and laugh at times.

If you don't like it block me but please don't whine, I acknowledge you have prob forgotten more than I will ever know about tuning but FFS don't throw your toys out the cot over a throwaway line.

"well liked here" "obvious reason" "stupid" "Majestic Europe". Really ....... :roll:


----------



## Madmax199

C'mon James your ways are not something that's a secret to anyone on the forum. You make it clear that you despise "outsiders", be it newcomers that ask question that in your opinion are too basic to ask, people that does jobs that are "beneath" you (remember Sandy), Americans, immigrants, people with different political views etc. etc. -- there are words that describes exactly your kind, but I'll let you figure that that for yourself looking in a mirror.

FYI, I don't whine, I don't block, I don't make decisions because of what any single individual does. If I chose to stop posting is because I feel it may not be worth my time anymore for some reasons, but not because of your miserable personality. I have probably posted to ask a handful of questions in my years and tens of thousands of elaborate posts on TT forums. So it's not like I need or get anything from the forums, it's always been about the love for cars, the TT, and sharing info and giving opinions. I have provoked, engaged you many times (we both know that you just fold or disappear), and I've learned to just post here knowing that there will be a jamman around. Don't flatter yourself, because you honestly don't have that much importance.

You on the other hand seems to have the hots for me and "Americans"



jamman said:


> Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:





jamman said:


> Thomas I'd have a word with Max you can't trust any of us :wink: :lol:





jamman said:


> Got to love an American takes 2 and 2 and makes 27.
> :lol:.





jamman said:


> Sandy take your tongue out of Max's ass FFS





jamman said:


> Max and I have no beef I'm sure he will agree


And always post something of that sort when people ask questions -- yet I've never seen you post something of substance.



jamman said:


> You don't do anything for yourself you just ask questions constantly about everything from which oil, which frames even to which forum member because your tooooo bloody idle to use search.


I could go on and on about your ways, but as I said you're not that important. OP, I apologize for taking your thread off topic but when a fly gets too annoying, it needs to be addressed. Don't bother reponding "Jamman" because you will be ignored. Now, you go and block me, because you know "you can't handle the truth". 
.


----------



## jamman

Jesus, how long did that take ..... :lol:

I can see that I'm not too important to you from the hour you've just taken assembling that post Lmfao :roll:

Please refer to my previous post :wink:

Sorry Beun :wink:


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jamman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Always enjoy reading about this build I hope you are double checking everything with our American friends as we are so set in our ways and behind the times :wink: :roll: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Hahahaha.
> Well, the yanks are voting to keep stock compression er even increasing it.
> Zhe germans and UK decrease compression for more power above say 400 hp on stock displacement and thats what im going to do. If i dont like the lower compression or doesnt bring any benefits i can simply swap to a stock head gasket.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think displacement or the HP figure really have much to do with the choice of compression ratio. The "yanks" chose not to lower compression on a 225 motor because it's already lowered as it is (9.0:1) from the standard 9.5:1 that is in every other 1.8t. It's down to tuning philosophy I guess, and where you draw the line on how low you want CR to be on modern fuel. One thing I know for a fact, you better be ready to push boost and timing far beyond what is common knowledge in the UK tuning scene if you want to make up for the lowered CR... or it's really a pointless exercise.
> 
> For example, UK tuning powerhouse always questioned the boost and timing I ran on my 9.0:1 225 motor, well it's because it's a bloody 9.0:1 factory-lowered CR. Why would I not take advantage it if I'm running the low factory CR -- and if I wasn't, I might as well go for the 9.5:1 standard CR and cap boost/timing at a lower level.
> 
> Higher CR makes for a much more lively (less lazy) car off boost, 9.0:1 has been proven to take big boost and healthy timing on modern pump petrol (98 ron). So I think it's logical to not go for anything lower unless you: a) want a lazy car all around -- b) brewing some kind of fire-breathing monster that will run 35+ psi and loads of timing. If not, II don't see why anyone would purposely do such thing unless there is a lack of tuning talent.
> 
> As a point of reference, the 4G63T motor on the EVO (up to the IX model) came with the 8.5:1 ratio that you're about to run. It's common practice to push these at 30+ psi due to the low factory CR. This is understandable since the motor was designed with such low CR -- it is an early 90's technology Narrowband lambda-controlled motor as well as a reflection of the tuning and knock resistance of pump fuel of that era. For example, I ran my track EVO at 40 psi no problem for many years. If you look at any more recent turbocharged motor, you'll quickly realize that things have evolved. Yes, the direct port injection, and better technology overall has helped, but the main factor is the knowledge acquired on how to make the most of petrol available at the pump.
> 
> I take it that the "yanks" are not well liked here (or anywhere) for obvious reasons. However, there is a method to our madness. We're not exactly as stupid as it is believed in majestic Europe. All of it reflected by the power figures achieved on our cars VS the european 1.8T. Nobody can tell you what direction to take with your pride and joy, so take my post for what it is. Some perspective!
> 
> PS: Jamman, does our presence really bother you that much? Because if it does, I won't leave (something that you seem to have already achieved with your ways -- Adam (Collecttor) has stopped posting, and I was considering doing so myself).
Click to expand...

I did asked for opinions about compression a while back in a thread. Did a hell of a lot of reading on forums and asked the tuner about this. I think its more the conservative way of tuning here in europe.

I have no idea what the slughish feel will be (maybe like flooring it in a gear too high?), its a bit of a gamble. 2 degrees knock retard now above 6K on 102 octane. So dont know what it will do when pushing the turbo hard say above 2 bar 30psi boost.
Its the reason i choose the gasket way so getting it back when i dont like it or it has no benefits is easy.

PS yanks isnt like calling someone a ****** over here.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Beunhaas said:


> I think its more the conservative way of tuning here in europe.


+10000


----------



## Jay-225

Beunhaas said:


> PS yanks isnt like calling someone a black person over here.


Please elaborate what you mean by that statement, i am very interested to hear!!!


----------



## TT Tom TT

Hmmm, this really does confuse me...

Surely if our tuning sucks (it does - I've come to this realisation) then surely it would better to run 25PSI at 9.0:1 than 8.5:1..? Like Max has said, 9.0:1 will probably take more PSI than people offer for tuning in Europe any way, I've never seen anyone run hybrids over 26PSI over here which 9.0:1 will accommodate so 8.5:1 will be effort spurned...


----------



## NickG

Jay-225 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> PS yanks isnt like calling someone a black person over here.
> 
> 
> 
> Please elaborate what you mean by that statement, i am very interested to hear!!!
Click to expand...

I would say lost in translation baring in mind the guy is Dutch!

Everyone needs to calm the f*** down, this is a quality thread, full of some of the best info, being ruined by people's mindless crap.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Hmmm, this really does confuse me...
> 
> Surely if our tuning sucks (it does - I've come to this realisation) then surely it would better to run 25PSI at 9.0:1 than 8.5:1..? Like Max has said, 9.0:1 will probably take more PSI than people offer for tuning in Europe any way, I've never seen anyone run hybrids over 26PSI over here which 9.0:1 will accommodate so 8.5:1 will be effort spurned...


Maybe the 9.0:1 doesnt accept much more boost than 26 psi giving severe timing retardation on pump gas? I dont know. As mentioned earlier it was a bit of a dilemma what to do with the compression. Only time will tell [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## Beunhaas

NickG said:


> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> PS yanks isnt like calling someone a black person over here.
> 
> 
> 
> Please elaborate what you mean by that statement, i am very interested to hear!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would say lost in translation baring in mind the guy is Dutch!
> 
> Everyone needs to calm the f*** down, this is a quality thread, full of some of the best info, being ruined by people's mindless crap.
Click to expand...

Huh, i didnt worte that. A had an other word for black people but apparently its corrected by a moderator or some forum auto correct. What is meant was that the word yanks isnt used in a negative way. :?


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, this really does confuse me...
> 
> Surely if our tuning sucks (it does - I've come to this realisation) then surely it would better to run 25PSI at 9.0:1 than 8.5:1..? Like Max has said, 9.0:1 will probably take more PSI than people offer for tuning in Europe any way, I've never seen anyone run hybrids over 26PSI over here which 9.0:1 will accommodate so 8.5:1 will be effort spurned...
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the 9.0:1 doesnt accept much more boost than 26 psi giving severe timing retardation on pump gas? I dont know. As mentioned earlier it was a bit of a dilemma what to do with the compression. Only time will tell [smiley=book2.gif]
Click to expand...

Won't you be running water / wm injection any way? If you're not then I see the sense in you lowering your CR to 8.5:1


----------



## Jay-225

Beunhaas said:


> NickG said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jay-225 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please elaborate what you mean by that statement, i am very interested to hear!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I would say lost in translation baring in mind the guy is Dutch!
> 
> Everyone needs to calm the f*** down, this is a quality thread, full of some of the best info, being ruined by people's mindless crap.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Huh, i didnt worte that. A had an other word for black people but apparently its corrected by a moderator or some forum auto correct. What is meant was that the word yanks isnt used in a negative way. :?
Click to expand...

no problem :lol:


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Maybe the 9.0:1 doesnt accept much more boost than 26 psi giving severe timing retardation on pump gas? I dont know. As mentioned earlier it was a bit of a dilemma what to do with the compression. Only time will tell [smiley=book2.gif]


What is the severe timing retardation that won't allow boost over 26 psi on pump gas? Aren't on good fuel (102 or something), and didn't you have plans to switch to E85?


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the 9.0:1 doesnt accept much more boost than 26 psi giving severe timing retardation on pump gas? I dont know. As mentioned earlier it was a bit of a dilemma what to do with the compression. Only time will tell [smiley=book2.gif]
> 
> 
> 
> What is the severe timing retardation that won't allow boost over 26 psi on pump gas? Aren't on good fuel (102 or something), and didn't you have plans to switch to E85?
Click to expand...

Yes i was working on it to switch from 102 to e85 but its getting harder and harder to find it within a reasonable range. And i would need to upgrade injectors again.

I have 2 degrees retardation above 5.5k rpm. This would only get worse when increasing boost from 1.6 bar 22 psi to around 2 bar 30 psi.

I cant simply increase timing due to the fact i cant tune the car myself and increasing timing will increase power and i'm on stock rods for now. So bit of a dillemma.

Maybe on the new turbo with the forged rods and stock compression the retardation will be gone when running a bit more rich and increasing timing to lower cylinder temperatures.

Its all guessing [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Beunhaas said:


> I have 2 degrees retardation above 5.5k rpm. This would only get worse when increasing boost from 1.6 bar 22 psi to around 2 bar 30 psi.
> 
> I cant simply increase timing due to the fact i cant tune the car myself and increasing timing will increase power and i'm on stock rods for now. So bit of a dillemma.


You can absolutely increasing timing by yourself. It is cake... Look up Unisettings or Lemmiwinks. You don't even have to be semi-tuning capable to do it. If you can log vcds channels even better for safety.

And your rods will be fine with a timing increase :roll: The thing that kills rods are massive torque spikes down low. Timing should not heavily impact that. This is assuming you have a good tune that accounts for this (down low torque)


----------



## nate42

OEM oil lines worked for me just fine with EFR6758. Drain flange holes had to be drilled a bit bigger and that was it. Coolant lines needed one 90 degree swagelok bend to make them work. Doesn't have to be Swagelok any other stainless steel ferrule type fitting will work. There are pics in my thread on page 12. You just need to rotate the middle section of the turbo to right position.

Don't reuse the gaskets on banjo fittings!


----------



## Beunhaas

Gonzalo1495 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 degrees retardation above 5.5k rpm. This would only get worse when increasing boost from 1.6 bar 22 psi to around 2 bar 30 psi.
> 
> I cant simply increase timing due to the fact i cant tune the car myself and increasing timing will increase power and i'm on stock rods for now. So bit of a dillemma.
> 
> 
> 
> You can absolutely increasing timing by yourself. It is cake... Look up Unisettings or Lemmiwinks. You don't even have to be semi-tuning capable to do it. If you can log vcds channels even better for safety.
> 
> And your rods will be fine with a timing increase :roll: The thing that kills rods are massive torque spikes down low. Timing should not heavily impact that. This is assuming you have a good tune that accounts for this (down low torque)
Click to expand...

A while back i wanted to use ME7 logger, because it can log much much more blocks at higher sample rate than VCDS but could not get it connected. Tried Unisettings and could not get it connected either.
Asked the tuner told me it doesn't work because they use something like a soldered socket on the ecu so i cant connect with these tools. [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=argue.gif] VCDS does work however.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Beunhaas said:


> Gonzalo1495 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 degrees retardation above 5.5k rpm. This would only get worse when increasing boost from 1.6 bar 22 psi to around 2 bar 30 psi.
> 
> I cant simply increase timing due to the fact i cant tune the car myself and increasing timing will increase power and i'm on stock rods for now. So bit of a dillemma.
> [/quote
> You can absolutely increasing timing by yourself. It is cake... Look up Unisettings or Lemmiwinks. You don't even have to be semi-tuning capable to do it. If you can log vcds channels even better for safety.
> 
> And your rods will be fine with a timing increase :roll: The thing that kills rods are massive torque spikes down low. Timing should not heavily impact that. This is assuming you have a good tune that accounts for this (down low torque)
> 
> 
> 
> A while back i wanted to use ME7 logger, because it can log much much more blocks at higher sample rate than VCDS but could not get it connected. Tried Unisettings and could not get it connected either.
> Asked the tuner told me it doesn't work because they use something like a soldered socket on the ecu so i cant connect with these tools. [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=argue.gif] VCDS does work however.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That is not good news 

So yeah, without those options, you essentially have to go back to your tuner and get a timing increase


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> OEM oil lines worked for me just fine with EFR6758. Drain flange holes had to be drilled a bit bigger and that was it. Coolant lines needed one 90 degree swagelok bend to make them work. Doesn't have to be Swagelok any other stainless steel ferrule type fitting will work. There are pics in my thread on page 12. You just need to rotate the middle section of the turbo to right position.
> 
> Don't reuse the gaskets on banjo fittings!


So the connections are the same as the ko4? That would be fantastic! I was a bit worries as i did read somewhere the fittings where the same as a garrett and they use m14x1.5 for coolant and other weird sizes for oil.

Checking your thread again! So much good info in there. [smiley=cheers.gif]

Thanks mate.


----------



## Beunhaas

Gonzalo1495 said:


> So yeah, without those options, you essentially have to go back to your tuner and get a timing increase


Unfortunately yes. With the new setup ready for a tune i will ask if it can be done like other tuners as i would like to have a play with unisettings and ME7 logger myself. Ideally i would like to modify the ECU maps myself but i think thats a bit of rocket science for now.


----------



## nate42

Beunhaas said:


> So the connections are the same as the ko4? That would be fantastic! I was a bit worries as i did read somewhere the fittings where the same as a garrett and they use m14x1.5 for coolant and other weird sizes for oil.
> 
> Checking your thread again! So much good info in there. [smiley=cheers.gif]
> 
> Thanks mate.


You can find the sizes here and also lot of other good info http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

I'd say learn to change the timing yourself. Get a spare ECU and start fiddling with that. http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wik ... g_Software and winOLS was the program if I remember correctly. I gave up as it looked complicated and went with Vipec.I like the control and that I can log everything  It costs the same as few days in a dyno, but in a long run it becomes cheaper when you can do most of the things yourself.
There is good reading and info of needed tools on that NefMoto forum to get the idea. ME7 Control is quite sophisticated if you compare to basic MAP based control of aftermarket ECU. That makes tuning more complicated. ECU tracks things based on calculated Load value. On MAP based you just do things (fuel and ignition) based on MAP and RPM at any given time.


----------



## Beunhaas

Oke, the new turbo upgrade has started.
I heard that the turbo is on it's way (way earlier than expected [smiley=dude.gif] ) so i decided to do start pulling the head off and working on the piston rings and IE conrod upgrade.



Started at around 15:30 and at 17:30 i got everything disconnected from the head except for the turbo lines and downpipe. That's how it stands for now.
Tomorrow i wil pull the head and take the pistons and rods out.


Little comparison picture of the stock 225 maf and the 3" maf from an audi A8. should be good for 600 hp incase i will go bigger later on :lol:


----------



## hang your idols

My car it`s mafless,based on MAP,which it`s common in Romania for high tuned cars;i see in vest Europe the tuners don`t use this sort of tuning.

What turbo did you bought?


----------



## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> My car it`s mafless,based on MAP,which it`s common in Romania for high tuned cars;i see in vest Europe the tuners don`t use this sort of tuning.
> 
> What turbo did you bought?


The tuner where i went also wanted to do a mafless but then you wont have esp anymore so i insisted to tune the car with maf.

The new turbo is an EFR 6758 turbo with an integrated exhaust manifold with tfsi flange. Since i have an adapter from the k04 tfsi that should make it work perfect, but this EFR tfsi turbo on an 1.8t is never done before. Fingers crossed


----------



## Madmax199

Your best bet if using the ME7.5 with a tune is to go with Alpha-N fueling model (aka mafless tune) as your tuner suggested. The 3" MAF will not support airflow for much power over 300 WHP. I ran a 3" ID MAF in my car and flatlined it from onset to redline, the sensor will just max out its voltage and screw up the fueling on a MAF-based tune.

Here is a log at 27 psi and the MAF readings are already maxed out. At 30 psi for example, the fueling is so off that it would be dangerous just to do one pull on a MAF-based tune because the corrections needed are way outside the ECU's range. 









In your position, I would either go for a mafless tune, Maestro, or go full Standalone as Nate pointed out. Plenty of options with standalone nowadays, Vipec, AEM infinity (which is what I run), and the new Emerald units are looking good for you UK based guys.


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> Your best bet if using the ME7.5 with a tune is to go with Alpha-N fueling model (aka mafless tune) as your tuner suggested. The 3" MAF will not support airflow for much power over 300 WHP. I ran a 3" ID MAF in my car and flatlined it from onset to redline, the sensor will just max out its voltage and screw up the fueling on a MAF-based tune.
> 
> Here is a log at 27 psi and the MAF readings are already maxed out. At 30 psi for example, the fueling is so off that it would be dangerous just to do one pull on a MAF-based tune because the corrections needed are way outside the ECU's range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In your position, I would either go for a mafless tune, Maestro, or go full Standalone as Nate pointed out. Plenty of options with standalone nowadays, Vipec, AEM infinity (which is what I run), and the new Emerald units are looking good for you UK based guys.


Sorry, it is an rs4 size maf 82mm ID. Should flow 500+ hp. Dont think i will max that out.


----------



## Beunhaas

So lots of progress made.

Undid the headbolts and lifted the head and turbo out of the enginebay.




Left a nice hole in the enginebay and first look at the pistons and bores. All pistons have zero damage from detonation or any other foreighn objects. The hone marks are still present but starting to glaze so the flexhone comes in handy.



Knocked the pistons out and was left with even less engine. Visually the conrods still look straight so powerwise the safe torque setup worked.



Then the doorbel rang and a nice Package was delivered. An efr 6758 with integrated tfsi manifold.
Gamma titanium turbine wheel. Integrated recirculation valve and n75 valve. Ball bearing turbo. Custom wastegate canister bracket. [smiley=sweetheart.gif] 






No cracking manifold for me!

Talked about cracks, i inspected the head and got what looks like a haircrack between the exhaustvalves from cylinder 2 [smiley=bigcry.gif] 


So what to do with the head??? Is it scrap now or what are the options? [smiley=book2.gif]

Decided to disassemble the pistons and rods for cleaning


Put the pistons in citric acid before cleaning them



And thats where its now. I hope to rehone the bores this evening and put the pistons and rods back in there. [smiley=dude.gif]


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Sorry, it is an rs4 size maf 82mm ID. Should flow 500+ hp. Dont think i will max that out.


If you say so! BTW that's exactly what I ran (actually 83mm ID) on the log posted. Sorry, I was just trying to help, carry on!

*EDIT*: Doing some reading/research to refresh my memory on the various.. Audi Mafs, I realized that the RS4 MAF maxes out at 320 G/s (still maxing out too low to make any significant power over 300 WHP). What was happening with the logs I posted was VCDS/Vagcom related. Vagcom reading limit is around 300 G/s due to the equation in the software -- so logging with vagcom will flatline before the ECU true max MAF voltage (300 G/s vs 320 G/s).

With that said, even the RS4 320 G/s voltage limit is too low for significant power on a MAF based tune (especially when the the TT pressure sensor also flatlines very low).


----------



## Madmax199

EFR 6758 in integrated tfsi hotside looks really good!


----------



## Von Twinzig

Are you making any effort to equal up the balance of each rod/bearing/piston ring set by moving parts around?

VT


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> EFR 6758 in integrated tfsi hotside looks really good!


I always read people have problems with manifold to turbo gaskets, studs and nuts from the turbo backing out, cracks! Etc so this combo should survive some abuse.


----------



## Beunhaas

Von Twinzig said:


> Are you making any effort to equal up the balance of each rod/bearing/piston ring set by moving parts around?
> 
> VT


Well, the rods are balanced, i don't know how much weight deviation there is in the rings bearings and wrist pins but i will keep an eye open and see if i can keep each piston rod assembly the same weight.

Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## Madmax199

Beunhaas said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> EFR 6758 in integrated tfsi hotside looks really good!
> 
> 
> 
> I always read people have problems with manifold to turbo gaskets, studs and nuts from the turbo backing out, cracks! Etc so this combo should survive some abuse.
Click to expand...

Much better efficiency too with the manifold integrated into the hotside and central collector (as opposed to the off-centered merge on the 1.8 K03/K04.


----------



## kane

I wouldn't put that head back on. Aeb head next :wink:


----------



## Madmax199

kane said:


> I wouldn't put that head back on. Aeb head next :wink:


And the logic for that is?


----------



## kane

Madmax199 said:


> kane said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't put that head back on. Aeb head next :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> And the logic for that is?
Click to expand...

For not wanting to put a head with a crack back on an uprated motor buildt to produce about twice the stock power or for switching to Aeb head? 
For all I know Beunhaas might have a head that's perfectly ported, I wouldn't know, I haven't read the whole thread yet, but I still wouldn't put it back on before adressing that crack. 

Edit:
I'll let this stand but after looking at the picture one more time, the crack is between the exhaust valves... So my new statement will be: I would slapp that thing back on there and get back on the streets


----------



## intott

Looking good mate!

The cracked head would have me concerned however there are allowances for cracks in the Audi repair manual.

I am also to the point of piston and rod reassembly. I've weighed each combination up and have a difference of 2.4grams. I'm not sure where I stand with this so am interested to see what conclusion you come up with.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

tbh that crack looks very insignificant. I barely noticed it. (Are we talking about the same picture? :lol: )


----------



## Beunhaas

Thanks for the opinions guys. Cant find that much on the internet about whats acceptable and what is too much.
Cleaned the head and intake valves. Little close-up of the crack. It runs into the valve seat and at the inner edge of the seat it stops.



And could net resist to have a quick look of the new turbo on the head. Fits like a glove!


----------



## hang your idols

Beunhaas said:


> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> 
> My car it`s mafless,based on MAP,which it`s common in Romania for high tuned cars;i see in vest Europe the tuners don`t use this sort of tuning.
> 
> What turbo did you bought?
> 
> 
> 
> The tuner where i went also wanted to do a mafless but then you wont have esp anymore so i insisted to tune the car with maf.
> 
> The new turbo is an EFR 6758 turbo with an integrated exhaust manifold with tfsi flange. Since i have an adapter from the k04 tfsi that should make it work perfect, but this EFR tfsi turbo on an 1.8t is never done before. Fingers crossed
Click to expand...

I never heard about this and i don`t see the correlations between maf and esp? 

Good luck mate,fingers crossed


----------



## Madmax199

hang your idols said:


> I never heard about this and i don`t see the correlations between maf and esp?


There is a correlation! ESP relies heavily on load calculation to operate. The MAF is a key factor to load calculation in the ECU. So without a plausible MAF signal the ESP is disabled. That's why a failed (or out of range) MAF is often paired with an ESP light on the dash. [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## NickG

ESP? That sounds intruding and irritating! :lol:


----------



## nate42

Looking good!

For the head, send a pic to local head shop. They can probably open the crack and weld it for you with 100€ or even less.

You can't draw conclusions of MAF capability based on the area difference, or where are you getting the power levels? Air speed at the MAF wire is what matters. Air speed on a tube is not constant over surface. So doubling the area doesn't double g/s values as air speed in the middle can increase more than close to MAF walls. Voltage that ECU sees is based on the MAF tip wire temperature/resistance relation, more air flow, more voltage needed to keep the wire warm (resistance constant). Tuner must know how to scale bigger housing MAF. Will be interesting to see how much you get out from the bigger housing.

Here is a crazy idea for you. Fabricate symmetric alloy y-pipe on intake and put two OEM MAF's take the reading from only other one and double the values on MAF table at the software. 8)

Madmaxx is correct, pressure sensors before throttle body will max out also, but there is a direct replacement from diesel VAG's that you can put there. The limit is 2.54bar absolute pressure if I remember correctly. I hit that limit with Revo Stage3 map and external boost controller back in the days.



Madmax199 said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, it is an rs4 size maf 82mm ID. Should flow 500+ hp. Dont think i will max that out.
> 
> 
> 
> If you say so! BTW that's exactly what I ran (actually 83mm ID) on the log posted. Sorry, I was just trying to help, carry on!
> 
> *EDIT*: Doing some reading/research to refresh my memory on the various.. Audi Mafs, I realized that the RS4 MAF maxes out at 320 G/s (still maxing out too low to make any significant power over 300 WHP). What was happening with the logs I posted was VCDS/Vagcom related. Vagcom reading limit is around 300 G/s due to the equation in the software -- so logging with vagcom will flatline before the ECU true max MAF voltage (300 G/s vs 320 G/s).
> 
> With that said, even the RS4 320 G/s voltage limit is too low for significant power on a MAF based tune (especially when the the TT pressure sensor also flatlines very low).
Click to expand...


----------



## Beunhaas

IF.... I max out the maf that would mean i make some serious power. In that case i have to accept a mafless tune or make a billet 4" ID maf houding :lol:

Max is correct. The whole engine and abs esp are load based from the MAF. Removing the maf will cause some esp hassle but i did read somewhere that there might be a little fix for it.

Two maf tubes well that means i need two airfilters :lol:

Conquered 34 degrees heat today and honed the bores. Was pretty nervous but think it came out OK.

And for Tom; i did it with the engine block and crank in place 

Before (the dark light contrast is from the reflection in the glazed bores)


I covered the crank and oil squirter with a wet rag and. First bore the flexhone caught the rag and pulled it out. So as tip for other people, place a piece of wood on top of the rag so that wont happen. Also cutted 15 mm of the end of the flex hone bar because it would hit the wood and the flexhone would not go in deep enough.


And the end result 8) 


Now its time for ring gapping.


----------



## TT Tom TT

I can only talk from personal experience when I say that my engine was drinking coolant and when the head was stripped down it was due to a hairline crack between two valves just like yours, although my crack was maybe a 'little' thicker but could still be called 'hair-line'. I think under more stress the crack will widen. I really, really, really wouldn't gamble on it for the amount of money it will cost to put it right.

I can tell you for absolutely certain that I am not making this up or this isn't my first-hand experience because it is. Crack between one of the valves caused the engine to drink coolant --> mayo in cap... Got head sorted before it caused any problems. Would definitely get it sorted.

If this makes it any more relevant this occured when my engine hit 81k miles so if your engine is between 70-90k miles on the stock engine you know that it's a similar scenario more than likely.

Maybe get a leak test done on the head for piece of mind to see if any fluid will pass through the crack?


----------



## Beunhaas

Time to do the rings and rods. Everything goes back in as it came out.


used an piston to square the rings in the bore and measured the gap. All top rings are between 0.25 and 0.3 mm. The second ring between 0.3 and 0.4mm and the oil rings between 0.35 and 0.4mm as per bentley spec.



and some comparison pics of the OEM and IE rods.






Tomorrow i go to the track (zandvoort) racing with my mate in his 400HP seat leon. Beautiful track in the dunes right to the sea. Should be fun 8)


----------



## Beunhaas

Installed the new rods. The rods, pins, bearings and bolts all had the same weight. The difference in assembly is from the piston (weighed them seperately).

New OEM bearings in there.


#1

#2

#3

#4


New pickup because i wasn't in the mood to clean the old one :lol: 


Fresh bottom end


All new tensioner, damper, waterpump etc.


Then it was time to fit the head and turbo back in the car to see what clearance is like  Not that bad but the compressor needed some more clocking but the wastegate canister bracket needed to move a hole further  More modifications to be done including some creative waste gate arm. Clearance is tight on the head but it fits!




Spend a whole lot of time to modify the oil and water lines and some porting on the exhaust runners for a smooth transition from adapter to exhaust.


hopefully tomorrow i can fit the head in for good and put the timingbelt back on.


----------



## ProjectMick

Great progress - I never realised how much more substantial the IE rods were compared to stock.

Look forward to continued reading!


----------



## jamman

ProjectMick said:


> Great progress - I never realised how much more substantial the IE rods were compared to stock.
> 
> Look forward to continued reading!


Same here big bloody difference look well worth the money


----------



## nate42

It's just now that I realised that your turbo will be the other way round? Looking from the exhaust side to engine: downpipe will go to left as in TFSI engine.  Keep the pictures coming. Did you get the head sorted?

Motivational warning to you, this will be fast spooling and quick when finished 8)


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> It's just now that I realised that your turbo will be the other way round? Looking from the exhaust side to engine: downpipe will go to left as in TFSI engine.  Keep the pictures coming. Did you get the head sorted?
> 
> Motivational warning to you, this will be fast spooling and quick when finished 8)


Yup its all flipped compared to the original turbo. The newer platform cars have a bigger tunnel around the propshaft so the downpipe goes down same side as hot end. On our cars the tunnel is asymmetric so the downpipe is squeezed back to the other side of the propshaft.

Head wasnt a problem according to quite a few people and companies i asked so fingers crossed 

Cant wait to experience the amazing spool people rave about on the EFR turbo's [smiley=cheers.gif]


----------



## Beunhaas

Modified the oil and water lines and engine is all back together now. Will pick up the modified TIP and chargepipe, make a new oil retour and the its time to fill it up with coolant and oil. Good times ahead!

The increased headgasket thickness to lower compression is a complete pain in the ass when putting the timingbelt back on. Had to remove the hydraulic damper, put the belt on, squeeze the damper back in there and the pin was almost loose in there. Thats how tight it fits. Lets hope it doenst affect the timing on the cams too much.



Cleaned the sump, was pretty clean already.


Cleaned the old injector cups as the dealer was conviced they dont sell them seperately from the manifold


Made a new bracket for the n75 valve to keep it close to the turbo for some good response


And last but not least, a sexy cast manifold that wont crack like most tubular [smiley=dude.gif] 


Hope to finish it this weekend and have it back on the road again.

Oh and thanks Nate for the advice about the oil feed and waterlines. They fit on the efr with some little tweaks.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Audi-1-8T-Bi ... 3acb856ab1

They also do sell the injector cups by themselves, just not at the dealers. You'd be better off going with billet ones as posted above if you plan on keeping the car long term.


----------



## nate42

+1 on that. I've bought them straight from Audi. The case was that my OEM injectors and then new 550cc Bosch EV14 injectors had different size o-rings so I had to change the cups to be able to use the new injectors.


----------



## Gonzalo1495

nate42 said:


> +1 on that. I've bought them straight from Audi. The case was that my OEM injectors and then new 550cc Bosch EV14 injectors had different size o-rings so I had to change the cups to be able to use the new injectors.


They're supposed to be the same size? What cups did you buy.


----------



## Beunhaas

Gonzalo1495 said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Audi-1-8T-Billet-Injector-Cups-Small-Port-A4-TT-MK4-Passat-GTI-/252522621617?hash=item3acb856ab1
> 
> They also do sell the injector cups by themselves, just not at the dealers. You'd be better off going with billet ones as posted above if you plan on keeping the car long term.


Thanks, i do know about the billet versions but think the plastics are fine as long as they are not cracked. I keep an eye on them for leaks.


----------



## Beunhaas

Slow progress last weeks. Had been waiting on a few little parts.

The k04-064 wasnt suitable to be altered for the EFR so went with two flanges and some hose inbetween. Wanted hard lines as on the tfsi k04 but could not get it done soon. This also works flawless but a bit less hooligan proof. Also a different cover voor the integrated DV.


The modified 3" tip and 2.5" chargepipe were welded. And a quick polish with some scotchbrite


The turbo all hooked up. Pretty tight with the oil and water lines, n75, 3" inlet, wastegate canister and integrated DV.


Primed the engine and then the moment of truth was there. Will it run? 

Turned the key and started like it was never in pieces. [smiley=dude.gif] Ran it for 30 km today, lots of pulls from 2-6K rpm and overrun to seat the rings, will do some more tomorrow and then a date for the remap can be made.


----------



## intott

Congratulations! A lot of hard work put in so it must be rewarding! Hopefully my build goes as well as yours.

Have you done any logging during break in?


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Congratulations! A lot of hard work put in so it must be rewarding! Hopefully my build goes as well as yours.
> 
> Have you done any logging during break in?


Thanks mate. I have driven about 100 km with it now and runs beautifully. Havent checked the compression yet and also havent made any logs yet. What things did you have in mind?

I do have some airpockets in the coolant system as i can hear the coolant boiling inside when i shut down the engine. Any ideas how to get them out?


----------



## intott

Beunhaas said:


> intott said:
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations! A lot of hard work put in so it must be rewarding! Hopefully my build goes as well as yours.
> 
> Have you done any logging during break in?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. I have driven about 100 km with it now and runs beautifully. Havent checked the compression yet and also havent made any logs yet. What things did you have in mind?
> 
> I do have some airpockets in the coolant system as i can hear the coolant boiling inside when i shut down the engine. Any ideas how to get them out?
Click to expand...

I asked about the logging as you've got a better flowing turbo so wondered if this would have affected the fuel trims, afr and boost control? I'm nervous about how my ecu will react going from a std turbo to a bt.

Last time I drained my coolant, I spent about 15 mins repeatedly squeezing all the hoses and also took the small hose ontop of the expansion tank off then blew into the tank to push the air out. This worked for me.


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> intott said:
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations! A lot of hard work put in so it must be rewarding! Hopefully my build goes as well as yours.
> 
> Have you done any logging during break in?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. I have driven about 100 km with it now and runs beautifully. Havent checked the compression yet and also havent made any logs yet. What things did you have in mind?
> 
> I do have some airpockets in the coolant system as i can hear the coolant boiling inside when i shut down the engine. Any ideas how to get them out?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I asked about the logging as you've got a better flowing turbo so wondered if this would have affected the fuel trims, afr and boost control? I'm nervous about how my ecu will react going from a std turbo to a bt.
> 
> Last time I drained my coolant, I spent about 15 mins repeatedly squeezing all the hoses and also took the small hose ontop of the expansion tank off then blew into the tank to push the air out. This worked for me.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes that makes sense. I only ran it on actuator pressure so flow wont be more than the tune for the TFSI turbo so all should be in check. I did make som logs yesterday to be sure and wanted to see what spool was like.

Been squeezing hoses and got some more air out. I think i make a plug so i can use the compressor to pressurize the coolant system slightly to push any remaining airpockets out.


----------



## Beunhaas

Some basic logs a made for peace of mind.

Everything seems quite within check although it does run a bit rich as i expected because it does pop pretty hard from time to time on overrun.
Spool is about the same as i saw on Nate's efr build although i dont have a tune for this turbo yet and have a lower 8.5:1 CR

The only weird thing i cant get my head around is why i have 'boost creep' when running with the N75 disconnected. The actual boost goes above specified. Seems like actuator pressure is just above 0.5 bar [smiley=book2.gif]



All logs where made with the N75 disconnected


----------



## nate42

You have boost creep because the wastegate is pressed closed by canister spring. Gas goes where there is least resistance, so through turbo until it compressor side starts to generate boost and this crates pressure to turbine side and then the wastegate opens.

Do you have already upgraded MAP? As 1.54 bar is max it can show. I'm afraid you will hit more boost than you want, go lean and brake something. Be patient and wait until its mapped before flooring it more.

I'd say you are more lean than rich on the fuel. 0.80-0.82 is where people normally want to be on full boost. From the graph it looks like you are closer to 0.9


----------



## Thomas1.8T

Beunhaas,

Do you sell the old setup? Turbo and so..?

Aan deze kant van het water


----------



## Beunhaas

Thomas1.8T said:


> Beunhaas,
> 
> Do you sell the old setup? Turbo and so..?
> 
> Aan deze kant van het water


Well, the only thing i got left from the old setup is the K04-064 tfsi turbo itself. The adapter plate and downpipe is used on the new turo, and the piping is also reused or modified for the new turbo. No much to sell i guess :lol:

What car do you run and do you have a topic on a forum sowewhere?


----------



## fixitagaintomoz

Hi mate,

Been watching this with interest over the last year, very good work I must say!

I will be doing the conversion myself very soon, so I'm collecting parts, and was looking at the muffler deletes on the tfsi k04. I like the one that you made, and was wondering if you would be willing to make abother? If so how much would you charge for one posted to UK?

Keep up the good work


----------



## Beunhaas

fixitagaintomoz said:


> Hi mate,
> 
> Been watching this with interest over the last year, very good work I must say!
> 
> I will be doing the conversion myself very soon, so I'm collecting parts, and was looking at the muffler deletes on the tfsi k04. I like the one that you made, and was wondering if you would be willing to make abother? If so how much would you charge for one posted to UK?
> 
> Keep up the good work


Hi,

Well, if i have to order a new round of aluminum, get the mechanic at work make a new one and post it to the UK i think it's easier to just order one from internet. They aren't that expensive anymore nowadays.


----------



## Beunhaas

Little update,

Not much progress as i'm pretty busy with study and work but did collect all the parts to make a new catback. All 3' piping, vaccuum operated valve, v-banded, magnaflow dampers and fully stainless.
Also got a huge K&N airfilter, velocity stack and the silicone hoses to couple everything together with the RS4 maf and 3' tip.

Making good power is all about the flow [smiley=whip.gif]


----------



## TT Tom TT

I like the air intake system, how are you going to fit all those silencers under the car though?

Do you have a drawing of your system 'cause I'd be interested in seeing what you have planned for yours?


----------



## CollecTTor

Who makes the exhaust valve?


----------



## IPG3.6

Is this logging via Ross tech software?

Look into me7logger with the graphics interface. Used in conjunction with ecuxplot.

You will have better data and it can be displayed with clicks of button rather than Having to go through excel


----------



## intott

Quad pipes atb style?


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> I like the air intake system, how are you going to fit all those silencers under the car though?
> 
> Do you have a drawing of your system 'cause I'd be interested in seeing what you have planned for yours?


Im going with this layout that is mostly used on golf 6 R
If the two mufflers dont fit opposite then i will only use one like in the second picture.


----------



## Beunhaas

CollecTTor said:


> Who makes the exhaust valve?


I did quite some research on valves with good quality. First i looked for an OEM valve from an existing rs6 exhaust or something but they dont come in 3" ID and the whole exhaust second hand isnt cheap so no option.

Then i found the manufacturer who makes the exhaustvalves for VW Audi BMW etc. But they dont sell them as single piece so no option either.

I got this from a german seller on the german ebay but in the end all the valves are made in China. It does look pretty robust and is used by many many aftermarket exhaust manufacturers.


----------



## Beunhaas

ianpgonzaga said:


> Is this logging via Ross tech software?
> 
> Look into me7logger with the graphics interface. Used in conjunction with ecuxplot.
> 
> You will have better data and it can be displayed with clicks of button rather than Having to go through excel


I do use VCDS indeed. Tried the way superior ME7logger (with the excellent help of intott) but could not get it connected. I asked my tuner and they confirmed because they solder an encrypted chip in the ecu. I will ask next remap if this can be changed.


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Quad pipes atb style?


Nope, just two pipes like original. I still dont know if i should go with just some polised stainless pipe as exhaust tip or get some fancy Carbon akrapovich style [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## sagishm

Hi,
I want to build the adaptor for k04 for my car, you can help me with the part file?
Thanks.


----------



## Beunhaas

sagishm said:


> Hi,
> I want to build the adaptor for k04 for my car, you can help me with the part file?
> Thanks.


Hi,

Not to be rude but no.

I think if you want a combo like this its the passion to make things work together. Not just a plate to put A on B. All part of the build to make the plate yourself. Get an 1.8t and 2.0 tfsi exhaust gasket a good vernier caliper and start drawing. There are enough pictures floating around for layout.


----------



## Beunhaas

Little update on the build,
8 february the car is going on the lift to mock up the 3 inch catback.
Hope to get it mapped before march


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Little update on the build,
> 8 february the car is going on the lift to mock up the 3 inch catback.
> Hope to get it mapped before *2019*


Fixed your post, we know how these things work :lol:... Hope I'm wrong because we are so overdue a result from someone 8)...

I'm hoping to get mine mapped before hover-cars surface :lol:!


----------



## nate42

I dig your alternative take on the exhaust. Waiting for tons of pics of your solution. Will be needing high flow 3" custom exhaust also in the future, so watching with interest.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little update on the build,
> 8 february the car is going on the lift to mock up the 3 inch catback.
> Hope to get it mapped before *2019*
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed your post, we know how these things work :lol:... Hope I'm wrong because we are so overdue a result from someone 8)...
> 
> I'm hoping to get mine mapped before hover-cars surface :lol:!
Click to expand...

Hope not. If it isn't running before summer i will sell the car! :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> I dig your alternative take on the exhaust. Waiting for tons of pics of your solution. Will be needing high flow 3" custom exhaust also in the future, so watching with interest.


I like taking pictures so will make plenty [smiley=cheers.gif]

I will even take some before after, vale open close dB measurements because i like numbers too


----------



## Beunhaas

All tests for my master are finished so finally some time to do the last things on the car.

Got a nice package waiting to go in.


I came to the conclusion that the stock fuel pump isn't going to cut it at 400+ hp and 2 bar boost on it's own. At first i thought about the bosch 044 inline but heard things about noisy etc so decided in-tank it is. I know fuel supply is critical when going for power so only wanted something good and reliabile. So i ordered a DW65V in-tank fuel pump. Should be good for 500 hp+

Was quite a fun job and kept me of the streets for about 3 hours :lol: There was a point however that i thought why didn't i simply put an inline pump on.


Turned the key, blurb blurb, air out, started the car and ran fine. Can't even hear the pump while in the car stationary 8)
Next week: exhaust


----------



## 3TT3

as posted elsewhere a few mins ago! I got one of those, probly overkill for mine but why not eh.

The thing is  .. dont shoot the messenger btw! Wak did some fitting and analysis on his 400+ machine some time ago posted on here.
Dont ask me when, sometime last year and found the dw 65 wasnt quite as good as his inline one.Figures n stuff posted..
Naturally this didnt thrill me a whole lot either  ie it might be the best in tank pump but not quite as good as inline pump.

Im just a ray of sunshine.


----------



## Madmax199

Good pump choice!

I switched from an inline 044 to the DW65v myself a few years ago. Flawless at 450+ BHP on E85 and 1,200 cc/min injectors. If it can supply fuel for E85 (35% more fuel demand than normal petrol) and 1,200 cc/min injectors, you have nothing to worry aboutr ( backed by AFR and IDC data).


----------



## Beunhaas

Madmax199 said:


> Good pump choice!
> 
> I switched from an inline 044 to the DW65v myself a few years ago. Flawless at 450+ BHP on E85 and 1,200 cc/min injectors. If it can supply fuel for E85 (35% more fuel demand than normal petrol) and 1,200 cc/min injectors, you have nothing to worry aboutr ( backed by AFR and IDC data).


I did read much positive reactions about the fuel pump on VWVORTEX including yours 

Thats also what i was thinking, since it can cope with the flow on your car with E85 it should be more than capable on mine with 102 petrol


----------



## IPG3.6

Beunhaas said:


> Madmax199 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good pump choice!
> 
> I switched from an inline 044 to the DW65v myself a few years ago. Flawless at 450+ BHP on E85 and 1,200 cc/min injectors. If it can supply fuel for E85 (35% more fuel demand than normal petrol) and 1,200 cc/min injectors, you have nothing to worry aboutr ( backed by AFR and IDC data).
> 
> 
> 
> I did read much positive reactions about the fuel pump on VWVORTEX including yours
> 
> Thats also what i was thinking, since it can cope with the flow on your car with E85 it should be more than capable on mine with 102 petrol
Click to expand...

ahhh this eases my mind too


----------



## Beunhaas

Last piece of the puzzle is complete.

The 3 inch turbo back is all welded up. Only need a exhaust flapper solenoid from the v6 tt and thats it. Waiting for good weather to install it.
Weighed it, 24 kg in total. Don't know if any lighter than the original exhaust.
It's an awfull lot of measuring/trial fitting work. Espacially the center piece with the valve in there takes much time to fabricate.

Let the pics to the talk 8)


----------



## nate42

Nice!!

Opening is controlled by boost pressure? How does it work, opens at once or starts to creep open at certain pressure?


----------



## davidlagendijk

Hoi, ik heb even een account aangemaakt om wat vragen te stellen over je conversie. Ten eerste, complimenten dat je alles zelf maakt. Ik speelde zelf ook al een tijd met het idee om een TFSI EFR op de 1.8T motor te monteren. Ik had je een mailtje gestuurd op het Seat Online forum maar volgens mij had je em over het hoofd gezien. M'n vraag ging eigenlijk over de TFSI EFR turbo en dan in het speciaal de diameter van de uitlaatpoorten. Ik heb de adapterplaat reeds gemaakt maar ik kan nergens vinden wat de diameters van de EFR poorten zijn in het spruitstuk. Zou je me hier mee kunnen en willen helpen?

Alvast bedankt, David


----------



## TT Tom TT

Only thought about this today but the location of those large silencers will be in a place where there is no space for them to go.


----------



## Beunhaas

nate42 said:


> Nice!!
> 
> Opening is controlled by boost pressure? How does it work, opens at once or starts to creep open at certain pressure?


The valve is closed when by default en can be opened by vaccuum.

I bought a 3.2 exhaust flapper solenoid from the dealers that i use to control the valve.

when i activate it, the vaccuum from the engine on idle pulls the valve open and a check valve prevents it from closing when boost is build. That way i can get the best flowing exhaust flow to aid spool.

With the solenoid deactivated the valve stays close and i can cruise in all quiteness 

That way i have full control over the valve to stay open or close when i want it.


----------



## Beunhaas

Installed the exhaust this weekend. It fits! :lol:

It's tight with two of those silencers in the back but all fine. I have a small rubbing noise from the center silencer on the propshaft so i do need to tweak the exhaust a little bit but nothing major.

The V-band in the middle of the exhaust makes it easy to put the catalytic converter back in when the mot comes, but the claps are quite big and it is a little low. When the speedbump is shorter than the wheelbase it drags on the bump so an oldschool exhaust clamp is going in there. Sad to ditch such a easy quick system to gain a little ground clearance :x

Pics or didn't happen


----------



## Beunhaas

davidlagendijk said:


> Hoi, ik heb even een account aangemaakt om wat vragen te stellen over je conversie. Ten eerste, complimenten dat je alles zelf maakt. Ik speelde zelf ook al een tijd met het idee om een TFSI EFR op de 1.8T motor te monteren. Ik had je een mailtje gestuurd op het Seat Online forum maar volgens mij had je em over het hoofd gezien. M'n vraag ging eigenlijk over de TFSI EFR turbo en dan in het speciaal de diameter van de uitlaatpoorten. Ik heb de adapterplaat reeds gemaakt maar ik kan nergens vinden wat de diameters van de EFR poorten zijn in het spruitstuk. Zou je me hier mee kunnen en willen helpen?
> 
> Alvast bedankt, David


pm'd on seat online


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Installed the exhaust this weekend. It fits! :lol:
> 
> It's tight with two of those silencers in the back but all fine. I have a small rubbing noise from the center silencer on the propshaft so i do need to tweak the exhaust a little bit but nothing major.
> 
> The V-band in the middle of the exhaust makes it easy to put the catalytic converter back in when the mot comes, but the claps are quite big and it is a little low. When the speedbump is shorter than the wheelbase it drags on the bump so an oldschool exhaust clamp is going in there. Sad to ditch such a easy quick system to gain a little ground clearance :x
> 
> Pics or didn't happen


Oh damn nice, I was so convinced that this wouldn't fit and would get in the way of the haldex, you did a great job of the design.


----------



## turbotommy

Hey Beunhaas,

i am in the process of building an adapter myself, what angle did you use for the upper studs on your adapter?


----------



## Beunhaas

turbotommy said:


> Hey Beunhaas,
> 
> i am in the process of building an adapter myself, what angle did you use for the upper studs on your adapter?


You can meassure the angle on the chamfered edge of the tfsi manifold. Ideally you want to have the studs at the same angle but if it fits depends on how high you positioned the turbo on the adapter plate. Too high and the angled studs have interference with the studs from the head.


----------



## Beunhaas

Tweaked the exhaust this weekend. Its almost perfect now except for overrun the engine tilts and the exhaust touches the heat shield between the exhaust and propshaft. There is a CV joint half way and the heatshield is lower in that place. It its clearl in this picture:

I gave it some tactical dents on the places it made contact. Also replaced the vband for and exhaust clamp for ground clearance.





End result, should flow pretty well. Havent hooked up the exhaust flapper to the solenoid so dont know how much difference it will make soundwise.


----------



## Beunhaas

Little update,

Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.

Let the waiting games begin


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Little update,
> 
> Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.
> 
> Let the waiting games begin


My ETA is about 2 months too! Weird man! May the best car win 8) :lol:  !

Interested to see the differences in graphs, I'm expecting maybe 450hp from your car does that seem a reasonable projection? It's what I would expect all things considered? What are you realistically hoping for?


----------



## intott

Beunhaas said:


> Little update,
> 
> Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.
> 
> Let the waiting games begin


Why go mafless? Tuners recommendation? Or too much power even after scaling with the rs4 housing?

If you go mafless we need to here some obscene dump valves noises


----------



## TT Tom TT

intott said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little update,
> 
> Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.
> 
> Let the waiting games begin
> 
> 
> 
> Why go mafless? Tuners recommendation? Or too much power even after scaling with the rs4 housing?
> 
> If you go mafless we need to here some obscene dump valves noises
Click to expand...

I think the 3.5" housing is good for a lot more power than we're capable, no MAF more power I guess, less restriction if you have a velocity stack and filter straight on the turbo inlet. Just in the way that a Badger5 TIP is better than an OEM TIP but I'm sure you already knew that! Totally agree with having a dump valve on with this MAFless tune, should sound absolutely insane, diverter valves are loud enough so one can only imagine :twisted:...


----------



## V6RUL

Hi,
back to your 3,2 solenoid.
Test it on the bench with a 5v supply first as i think it is not 12v,
Steve


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little update,
> 
> Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.
> 
> Let the waiting games begin
> 
> 
> 
> My ETA is about 2 months too! Weird man! May the best car win 8) :lol:  !
> 
> Interested to see the differences in graphs, I'm expecting maybe 450hp from your car does that seem a reasonable projection? It's what I would expect all things considered? What are you realistically hoping for?
Click to expand...

Yeah sucks but at least its ready before summer.

I'm hoping for 450+ hp. The turbo is capable enough for over 500 hp. I cant see what the limitation will be at the moment. Everything is changed for the thing to breathe so we will see


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Little update,
> 
> Contacted the tuner for an appointment but their ecu simulator is broken, now i have to wait for 2 months! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> 
> Also the RS4 maf is ditched in favour of a mafless tune.
> 
> Let the waiting games begin
> 
> 
> 
> Why go mafless? Tuners recommendation? Or too much power even after scaling with the rs4 housing?
> 
> If you go mafless we need to here some obscene dump valves noises
Click to expand...

It is indeed a tuner recommendation. For reliability they want mafless for such powerlevels. As long as it still runs smooth i have no problems with it. Now i can run an open dump with mafless so definitely going to see how it sound but if its too chav i will keep it like a diverter.


----------



## Beunhaas

V6RUL said:


> Hi,
> back to your 3,2 solenoid.
> Test it on the bench with a 5v supply first as i think it is not 12v,
> Steve


Thanks!

I did some bench testing today, it works indeed at 5v. The strange thing however is that with 5v or 12v it always pulls 0,19 Amps. Also doesnt it matter what you connect to positive or negative, it works both ways. Seems like it has some electric circuit inside that regulates things [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## intott

Are you going to need to run a 3 bar map sensor then?

Was also wondering if you would be upgrading the ignition system or will the oem coil packs still be up to the job?


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Are you going to need to run a 3 bar map sensor then?
> 
> Was also wondering if you would be upgrading the ignition system or will the oem coil packs still be up to the job?


I do have to ask the tuner about that but dont think so. Even a 3 bar sensor wil read only 2 bar of boost so will probably exceeded also.

I replaced my coilpacks 3 years ago under the recall and have other sparkplugs. People do over 600 hp with this so it should be more than capable, or atleast i hope


----------



## Beunhaas

Not much happend on the car as im still waiting for the remap. In the meantime i wanted to do something on the car and this summer i will probably do a few track laps or blasting on the autobahn so bought an 16 row oil cooler with thermostatic sandwichplate. Nice little extra for the engine to cope with the additional load.

Thanks jay-225 for the link to the seller [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Picture of what comes with the kit. I will be mounting it on top of the fmic.


----------



## Beunhaas

Did some work on the TT.

Installed the vaccuum line from the engine to the lower dash, installed a little switch for the exhaust flapper and then to the back of the car. Thanks rusTTy_racer for the routing [smiley=cheers.gif]

And i installed the oil cooler. Bit of a combination of Jay-225 and VonTwinzig mounted theirs above the FMIC.
looks pretty tidy. Shame it's not visible anymore with the bumper back on. All stainless or aluminum because Moonlighter/Beunhaas :roll: 
Let the pics do the talking.






While everything was off, i decided to give the wheel wells a quick wash. I was always under the assumption that the rust protection was matte grey but apparently it's the same colour as the laquer :lol: 
before:

after:


Still waiting for the remap [smiley=bomb.gif]


----------



## Beunhaas

There is a guy on here with a misano red tt (don't know if it was a QS) but he was cleaning about every nut and bolt on the car. While bumper was off i found a really dirty spot on the car. If you are reading this, take a look at this place. It's under the front engine bay covers and might be worth a quick wash for some satisfaction


----------



## Jay-225

Beunhaas said:


> Did some work on the TT.
> 
> Installed the vaccuum line from the engine to the lower dash, installed a little switch for the exhaust flapper and then to the back of the car. Thanks rusTTy_racer for the routing [smiley=cheers.gif]
> 
> And i installed the oil cooler. Bit of a combination of Jay-225 and VonTwinzig mounted theirs above the FMIC.
> looks pretty tidy. Shame it's not visible anymore with the bumper back on. All stainless or aluminum because Moonlighter/Beunhaas :roll:
> Let the pics do the talking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While everything was off, i decided to give the wheel wells a quick wash. I was always under the assumption that the rust protection was matte grey but apparently it's the same colour as the laquer :lol:
> before:
> 
> after:
> 
> 
> Still waiting for the remap [smiley=bomb.gif]


Looks perfect mate  i really really like how you mounted it to the intercooler , excellent idea ... that wont be going anywhere in a hurry  i wish i could ali weld or had access to someone who could [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Also i noticed you are not using jubilee clips on the hoses , i would highly recommend adding some just to make sure them hoses don't pop off , i know they are an extremely tight fit but better to be safe than sorry 



Beunhaas said:


> There is a guy on here with a misano red tt (don't know if it was a QS) but he was cleaning about every nut and bolt on the car. While bumper was off i found a really dirty spot on the car. If you are reading this, take a look at this place. It's under the front engine bay covers and might be worth a quick wash for some satisfaction


That would be DC240S :lol:


----------



## Gonzalo1495

Another chap joins the Mocal 16 row oil cooler club. Look what you started Jay! :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Jay-225 said:


> Looks perfect mate  i really really like how you mounted it to the intercooler , excellent idea ... that wont be going anywhere in a hurry  i wish i could ali weld or had access to someone who could [smiley=bigcry.gif]
> Also i noticed you are not using jubilee clips on the hoses , i would highly recommend adding some just to make sure them hoses don't pop off , i know they are an extremely tight fit but better to be safe than sorry


I saw everyone using jubilee clips on the hoses so did quickly put some on there before the bumper went back on.  
I cant weld aluminum myself but knowing the right people makes life much easier working on these cars.



Gonzalo1495 said:


> Another chap joins the Mocal 16 row oil cooler club. Look what you started Jay! :lol:


He should have started a groupbuy :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Oke some updates, going in for a remap on 12th of august.

That gives my some time for my next modification to squize out more hp. Original intake manifold is meh, and i don't like paying 700 euros for a SEM manifold. It isn't rocketscience after all :roll:

Picked up something excited today so lets go back to solidworks and do some CFD.

I will leave this here for now as a little teaser 8)
















BTW, photobucket screwed my thread so will wait for few weeks maybe they change their policy, else i have a lot of work to do [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## ProjectMick

Now that looks very interesting! More info please.

Ps Photobucket have ruined the Internet.


----------



## intott

Same direction I'm going in for my inlet manifold  
Are you going for longer runners and larger plenum?


----------



## 1781cc

ProjectMick said:


> Photobucket have ruined the Internet.


So true.. I've deleted my account with them and will self host now. f**k em.

The inlet manifold looks interesting - can't believe the money SEM charge for theirs! its extortion!


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> Oke some updates, going in for a remap on 12th of august.
> 
> That gives my some time for my next modification to squize out more hp. Original intake manifold is meh, and i don't like paying 700 euros for a SEM manifold. It isn't rocketscience after all :roll:
> 
> Picked up something excited today so lets go back to solidworks and do some CFD.
> 
> I will leave this here for now as a little teaser 8)
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> BTW, photobucket screwed my thread so will wait for few weeks maybe they change their policy, else i have a lot of work to do [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Very interesting, cut off the plenum and now you're going to push your own bigger plenum into the runners and apply jubilee clips? Makes complete sense to me, I look forward to seeing it.


----------



## Beunhaas

Well there is no cutting involved of an original intake at all.

This is the lower part of an 1.8 NA ADR engine of an a4 b5.

This has no stupid expensive injector cups and the rubber couplers have the same effect/function as a phenolic spacer 8) 
Oh and maybe the coolest thing is that this lower part is aviable in both big port and small port in case i want to.

I will make a custom plenum for it with a nice smooth inside and a plenum volume of about 2.8 litres. (apparently a sweet spot as the SEM and IE manifold both have this plenum volume).

End result should be something like this:


----------



## 3TT3

Will you be doing individual velocity stacks like the ie version?


----------



## Beunhaas

3TT3 said:


> Will you be doing individual velocity stacks like the ie version?


You mean that they are protruding into the plenum?

In that case im not sure yet. Depending if i will go for a billet piece with all four stacks in it or make the stacks on a lathe and weld them in there.

There is a nice article from IE then self explaining the velocity stack and the gains of a stack protruding into the plenum compared to being flush makes barely any difference.

A nice read from IE about stacks:
https://www.performancebyie.com/blog/th ... bellmouth/

Keep in mind the stacks are only a small part on the improvement. The bigger plenum that gives a better distribution over the cylinders, especially first and second cylinder will give much more gains.


----------



## 3TT3

Yes ie ones like those 









hey maybe the wmi spacer increasing the chamber volume isnt total bs after all 

edit:
IE seemed to do their flow tests,practical and theory on the basis of cast aluminium (rough interior surface ).
Would that make any difference?
What about the ridge between the metal faces: The parts joined by the rubber connectors.
Will the rubber connectors have a protursion on the inside so that there is no gap.
Just wondering what effect an uneven interior would have on the flow.

Im not trying to diss the idea btw .. sounds great (except the bit about actually making a chamber, which I couldnt do  )


----------



## Beunhaas

So the car went on the dyno and picked it up last saturday. Not a bad start i would say, BUT i can't live with these numbers so the project isn't over yet :lol:

Made 420 HP and 511 NM at the fly with 1.8 bar of boost.









maybe more interesting for some, the k04-064 compared to the efr 6758









It's clear from the graph that the efr turbo is quite bigger. Also the spool of the k04-064 was reduced because of the stock rods.

It has to make at least 450 hp before i'm satisfied so luckily a was already working on something to achieve this. The problem with the power is flow. The flow on the inlet is restricted between turbo and engine so a new manifold and map pipe will be the next thing to fix. And maybe i wil throw in a bar and plate fmic instead of a tube and fin.

Manifold will be made from 6060 3mm aluminium









made a jig and started cutting the right angles. Damn i love DIY stuff :lol:









































Next week the billet goodies should arrive and the work continues.

Also did a glass pearl blast on the oem intake part. Now looks shiney as new 8)


----------



## TT Tom TT

Semi-congrats ! Doesn't this feel fast to you ? What's the cars weight? Lovely torque curve, I'm happy to see some results ...


----------



## hang your idols

Great results,very similar with my gtx2867r,the same torque but you have 17hp more than me  ;keep up the great work!


----------



## TT Tom TT

Just had another look at the graph, holy crap this is a RESPONSIVE turbo, who says big turbos were laggy? This beast is making 300HP by 3100rpm, crazy.


----------



## 3TT3

TT Tom TT said:


> Just had another look at the graph, holy crap this is a RESPONSIVE turbo, who says big turbos were laggy? This beast is making 300HP by 3100rpm, crazy.


?
I think the blue lines are the new turbo bhp and torque, and the red lines are previous K04 turbo torque and bhp.
In essence the K04 was doing a bit more than the EFR up to 4000 rpm n after 4100 the EFR says eat my dust to the K04 ,or something like that.
EFR 300 hp at 4300 . K04(64) 300 hp at 4800.
Either would do me :lol:


----------



## TT Tom TT

3TT3 said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just had another look at the graph, holy crap this is a RESPONSIVE turbo, who says big turbos were laggy? This beast is making 300HP by 3100rpm, crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> I think the blue lines are the new turbo bhp and torque, and the red lines are previous K04 turbo torque and bhp.
> In essence the K04 was doing a bit more than the EFR up to 4000 rpm n after 4000 the EFR says eat my dust to the K04 ,or something like that.
Click to expand...

My mistake, you're spot on.


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Semi-congrats ! Doesn't this feel fast to you ? What's the cars weight? Lovely torque curve, I'm happy to see some results ...


Yes ofcourse it goes like stink compared to a stock or remapped 225 and it's also a big difference over the 340 hp i had previously but you set targets and if you don't make it it's a bit of a bummer.

Only weight savings i did was removing the spare wheel. :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Great results,very similar with my gtx2867r,the same torque but you have 17hp more than me  ;keep up the great work!


Thanks man, more to come soon 8)


----------



## Beunhaas

The billet goodies for the intake manifold are in so that means some more progress can be made. CFD optimized velocity stacks and custom throttle body flange

Got to love some billet aluminium. The machining quality is a true work of art. Especially the stacks are very very time consuming to make in the milling machine to aquire this low surface roughness [smiley=sweetheart.gif]









































Cutting some 3mm thick aluminium sheet, tube and bends results in this:

































Next week it will be welded and then i can see where to fit some vaccuum ports etc to the manifold and also i will change the MAP pipe for a true 2.5'' ID.


----------



## TT Tom TT

That picture of the custom made IM at the bottom is tasty !


----------



## 1781cc

thats looking good... group build run for us mortals in future?


----------



## TT Tom TT

Looks very good just taped together doesn't it !


----------



## Gtturbo

I'm intrigued, have you increased the plenum volume much? 
Do you know roughly what volume your aiming for?


----------



## hang your idols

Did you changed the exhaust valves and springs?
I`m very curios to see the power difference between stock intake and the custom one :roll:


----------



## 3TT3

Man,you do love machining 
I think its something similar in shape and dimensions to the IE (big bucks)one linked further back in the thread.
Kudos for "pushing the envelope" !


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> That picture of the custom made IM at the bottom is tasty !


Not bad for some DIY huh


----------



## Beunhaas

Gtturbo said:


> I'm intrigued, have you increased the plenum volume much?
> Do you know roughly what volume your aiming for?


The plenum volume itself is 2.4 L And including the stacks and lower runners it will be over 3L.
SEM has a plenum volume of 2.7 L and IE has a massive 3.7L but that's only beneficial for 8000+ RPM

I have no idea what the volume of the original 225 maniflold is but i will measure it when mine comes off.


----------



## Beunhaas

1781cc said:


> thats looking good... group build run for us mortals in future?


Yes i can do that, but first i want to test it for myself to see how much difference it will make before i make another for someone else


----------



## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Did you changed the exhaust valves and springs?
> I`m very curios to see the power difference between stock intake and the custom one :roll:


Stock block with IE H beam rods and a compression lowering headgasket that's it. More than enough to spin to 7200 rpm :lol:

Yeah i'm also eager to see the difference. I probably do the MAP pipe and intake at the same time as i need to alter the pipe work a little so maybe making the MAP pipe upto throttle body out of a single piece of stainless [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## Beunhaas

3TT3 said:


> Man,you do love machining
> I think its something similar in shape and dimensions to the IE (big bucks)one linked further back in the thread.
> Kudos for "pushing the envelope" !


I do love some CAD drawing and billet pieces indeed


----------



## hang your idols

Beunhaas said:


> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you changed the exhaust valves and springs?
> I`m very curios to see the power difference between stock intake and the custom one :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> Stock block with IE H beam rods and a compression lowering headgasket that's it. More than enough to spin to 7200 rpm :lol:
Click to expand...

Maybe in the future you will upgrade the valves and springs to spin up to 8200rpm


----------



## TT Tom TT

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> That picture of the custom made IM at the bottom is tasty !
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad for some DIY huh
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's very impressive - well done 8)!


----------



## Beunhaas

hang your idols said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hang your idols said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you changed the exhaust valves and springs?
> I`m very curios to see the power difference between stock intake and the custom one :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> Stock block with IE H beam rods and a compression lowering headgasket that's it. More than enough to spin to 7200 rpm :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe in the future you will upgrade the valves and springs to spin up to 8200rpm
Click to expand...

I do want to and the money isn't that much but i can't be arsed right now to pull the head of again soon for this. I might as wel stroke it with a 1.9TDI crank while in there again :lol:


----------



## Beunhaas

Manifold is all welded. Only thing to do is make a new MAP pipe and connect it to the new manifold. Also need to make a mounting for the IAT sensor and some vaccuum connections.

The question now is, do i polish it to mirror finish or do i want a satin look????

Little teaser, i will make some nice pictures when it's ready to get back on the car.


----------



## Beunhaas

Time for a update. Went to the dutch circuit Zandvoort, quite nice in the dunes. The evening before i thought it might be a good idea to check the oil level, guess what happend [smiley=bomb.gif]
Ordered new parts the next day.









Car performed great and 420 hp 510 Nm is a bit to0 much for my first time on a track. Messing up on corners and reeling in on other cars on straight ends. :lol:









After 5 laps on the straight i heard a loud bang and was expecting an oil warning on the dash but nothing happend, went back in the pit and blew of the boost hose from turbo to charge pipe. It's a pita to fix but luckily a few guys offerd their trailer, drove on it so i could fix it from underneath.
Second heat, same thing after 5 laps bang, hose of again so i going to add a second hose clamp at that place.

I've been very bussy with my master but did manage to work a few hours on the manifold. It's finished and will install it this weekend if weather permits. Let the pics do the talking

























A little comparison of the new and original manifold which is terrible from the inside 

















Also made a new pipe below the battery that holds the MAP sensor and a second DV connection









Made my own flanges for the IAT sensor and MAP sensor

















And all the parts together for the new intake















\

Now the entire intake from turbo to throttlebody is true 2.5 inch. Oh and for the track guys the manifold only weighs 1.8 Kg compared tot the original 2.8KG.

Last but not least, checked the lower part of the manifold when bolted to the head, and was quite surprised with the smooth transition from manifold to head









Quite happy with the progress so far 8)


----------



## intott

Like your work. Do you do the welding yourself?

Are you on a large or small port head?

Your power figures are great! Could you point me in the direction of any logs you've taken? I'm interested to see the boost and timing you are running with the EFR turbo and the 8.5cr. I think you will see some good gains with your new manifold and maybe break the 450 mark?

I'm getting timing pull at around 3.5k with my turbo so am starting to think dropping the cr as you have will bring my numbers up with the additional timing I could then run.

Cheers


----------



## TT Tom TT

Really good quality work, that IM is a thing of beauty. The pipe that goes half way from FMIC to throttle body is really sweet too. So impressive really is, I am very envious of your abilities.


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Like your work. Do you do the welding yourself?
> 
> Are you on a large or small port head?
> 
> Your power figures are great! Could you point me in the direction of any logs you've taken? I'm interested to see the boost and timing you are running with the EFR turbo and the 8.5cr. I think you will see some good gains with your new manifold and maybe break the 450 mark?
> 
> I'm getting timing pull at around 3.5k with my turbo so am starting to think dropping the cr as you have will bring my numbers up with the additional timing I could then run.
> 
> Cheers


My welding skills are limited to a tag weld with TIG on stainless let alone welding aluminium [smiley=bigcry.gif]. So someone did the welding for me at the university (for free!).

Still small port, doubt if i will see gains with largeport at these powerlevels.

The only logs i have before i installed the new intake manifold is a boost log of the spool up. But i can make some logs. Tell me what you want and i will make some this week.
I'm quite interested myself if spool has improved with the new intake 

Yeah the CR thing, i have no idea if i have any timing pull at all but i will make some logs and see whats happening. Do you also get timing pull while running WMI?


----------



## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> Really good quality work, that IM is a thing of beauty. The pipe that goes half way from FMIC to throttle body is really sweet too. So impressive really is, I am very envious of your abilities.


Thanks mate, practice is the secret i think :lol:


----------



## Rob180bhp

Beunhaas said:


> TT Tom TT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really good quality work, that IM is a thing of beauty. The pipe that goes half way from FMIC to throttle body is really sweet too. So impressive really is, I am very envious of your abilities.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate, practice is the secret i think
Click to expand...

Lovely work there

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk


----------



## Beunhaas

Today i installed the manifold. First i put two new hoseclamps on the hose that comes of the turbo to the charge pipe as it popped off twice while on the track. I think this should hold for the next time.









Then i started on the manifold. It's competely against my approach but i had to modify the battery tray a little or else the 2.5 inch pipe wouldn't fit.









Extended the hoses of the PCV and the power assisted brakes. Reconnected everything and had to extend the cable to the throttle body. I don't like cutting corners so ordered connectors and wires from the dealer to make it all plug and play.









I have to reinstall the battery and engine cover but it looks quite good already 8)









I did recirculate my DV into the TIP for the simple reason that it's open while the throttlebody is closed and pulling in unfiltered air. If someone knows how to fix this let me know as i did like the open dump.


----------



## intott

Beunhaas said:


> My welding skills are limited to a tag weld with TIG on stainless let alone welding aluminium [smiley=bigcry.gif]. So someone did the welding for me at the university (for free!).
> 
> Still small port, doubt if i will see gains with largeport at these powerlevels.
> 
> The only logs i have before i installed the new intake manifold is a boost log of the spool up. But i can make some logs. Tell me what you want and i will make some this week.
> I'm quite interested myself if spool has improved with the new intake
> 
> Yeah the CR thing, i have no idea if i have any timing pull at all but i will make some logs and see whats happening. Do you also get timing pull while running WMI?


You need to invest in a tig welder - they pay for themselves pretty quickly once you start fabricating parts yourself.

Logs for boost and timing vs RPM would be great - pre and post inlet manifold would idle

Yes I still get a bit of timing pull even with wmi. I am running a tiny nozzle so its not ideal. I think dropping the cr along with a better intake maifold would help me out quite a bit.

Cheers 
Sam


----------



## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> My welding skills are limited to a tag weld with TIG on stainless let alone welding aluminium [smiley=bigcry.gif]. So someone did the welding for me at the university (for free!).
> 
> Still small port, doubt if i will see gains with largeport at these powerlevels.
> 
> The only logs i have before i installed the new intake manifold is a boost log of the spool up. But i can make some logs. Tell me what you want and i will make some this week.
> I'm quite interested myself if spool has improved with the new intake
> 
> Yeah the CR thing, i have no idea if i have any timing pull at all but i will make some logs and see whats happening. Do you also get timing pull while running WMI?
> 
> 
> 
> You need to invest in a tig welder - they pay for themselves pretty quickly once you start fabricating parts yourself.
> 
> Logs for boost and timing vs RPM would be great - pre and post inlet manifold would idle
> 
> Yes I still get a bit of timing pull even with wmi. I am running a tiny nozzle so its not ideal. I think dropping the cr along with a better intake maifold would help me out quite a bit.
> 
> Cheers
> Sam
Click to expand...

Haha yes i know, but i do fear if i have one i will make a tubular manifold, then i have to buy a gtx3076r and then i make a downpipe and the new target is 600hp :lol:

I will make some logs this week.
The only log i have is boost with the old manifold not timingpull.
On the previous turbo i ran almost exaclty the same power you did and with the stock compression and 1.6 bar of boost did gave me a little timing pull


----------



## stevov

Change your choice of hoseclamp. Far better for increased boost.


----------



## intott

Sorry, I ment your actual timing curve not just timing pull 

Funny you would go with a gt series bb turbo as I would go with efr next.......i do hear good things about the gt30 series though.


----------



## Beunhaas

Made some logs today.

IAT nothing special, ambient temp was 15 degrees celcius









AFR's also look quite healthy to my knowledge. 0.85 is the place to be for most torque









Did a log on the vvt, it is indeed used to aid spool of the turbo









A log of boost as every one want to see spool figures









Turbo is running 1.8 bar now and the log confirmed what the tuner said, the wastegate canister is almost at max. This is the weakest so maybe swap for a medium one.









The most interesting thing i discoverd was the timing. It's weird to my knowledge. Adding timing while turbo spools is a bit weird, normally reducing timing aids spool.
Then when turbo kicks in timing is pulled to 15 degrees and stays there until redline. Why it isn't increased for more power is what is wondering me the most. There is 0 knock or retardation, 8.5:1 CR and 102 octane. Just feed more timing in like 25 degres something [smiley=book2.gif]


----------



## TT Tom TT

Cool graphs.

Don't know how people can whine and falsely say how laggy BT's and sometimes even hybrids are, you can see quite clearly here that you're making full boost by 4K, my hybrid's full boost by 3.5K and the K04-023 is full boost by 3.5-3.7K depending on the tune so really don't understand some people's attitude towards saying these bigger turbos are laggy :lol:

Not to mention the fact your turbo actually is now hitting max boost maybe 100-200rpms slower with your new IM. The EFR really is a pretty cool choice for this car, seems like you made a good choice to me.


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## Beunhaas

It's been a while. Car is running great but its never finished and i HAD to do something with the car so bought some goodies.
I do trust my work but better safe than sorry while car is going in flames so bought this. It a genuine AUDI 2 KG foam extinguisher that doesn't destroy all electrics like a powder extinguisher









Since the car is running mafless on the new turbo and ran the DV as open dump for a while i decided to buy something for the big boys. A TIAL Q BOV, i know it's a knockoff and the first they send me was extremely poor quality. Will see how this goes, but if it suck but i like the BOV i will buy a genuine TIAL  
Some pictures for comparisson









































Think i'm going to run the integrated DV in the compressor cover on the N249 and the TIAL BOV directly on the manifold. Think this is the best solution to prevent turbo stall/flutter on part throttle release.

And last but not least doing some research on a stiffer WG canister. This way we can increase boost even further. Right now duty cycle is almost 100% while holding 1.8 bar boost till redline.


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## intott

How are you going to keep the tial dv closed if it's mounted to the inlet manifold directly? Stiff spring? If its open post tb at idle than the dv will just draw air bypassing the throttle plate.


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## TT Tom TT

I have a question about this too ... What made you change rather than dumping via Bosch unit as you have been doing? That's what I'm currently doing, I'm just having my diverter valve run as a dump valve.


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## Beunhaas

intott said:


> How are you going to keep the tial dv closed if it's mounted to the inlet manifold directly? Stiff spring? If its open post tb at idle than the dv will just draw air bypassing the throttle plate.


You cant mount the BOV on the manifold for the exact reason you mentioned. Just like a DV it should be mounted on a chargepipe. Im going to mount the BOV on the pipe that runs below and around the battery i recently made. IF it fits in that space.


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## Beunhaas

TT Tom TT said:


> I have a question about this too ... What made you change rather than dumping via Bosch unit as you have been doing? That's what I'm currently doing, I'm just having my diverter valve run as a dump valve.


I have always ran the forge DV instead of the bosch. The original dv on the car leaked on the diagraph so i bought a forge. Its design is more robust but function exactly the same.

The TIAL BOV was because i want open dump and the forge is open at idle pulling unfiltered air. The TIAL is designed to run as open dump plus its 50mm diameter instead of 25 venting a lot more. Last but not least, im not a sound chav but the TIAL does sound sweet.

Oh and i just wanted to do something with the car because driving it is only part of the fun


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## TT Tom TT

Thanks Beun, informative as always.

Need some clips up of the sound when you have it on I think 8)...

I have my 007P dumping to atmosphere with a small air filter on it, I actually didn't think about the fact it's open at idle stupidly, I thought it was a safety pre-caution but thinking about it now I feel kind of stupid ...

I think it's time I get myself a proper Dump' valve and remove the mini air filter ...


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## Delta4

TT Tom TT said:


> Thanks Beun, informative as always.
> 
> Need some clips up of the sound when you have it on I think 8)...
> 
> I have my 007P dumping to atmosphere with a small air filter on it, I actually didn't think about the fact it's open at idle stupidly, I thought it was a safety pre-caution but thinking about it now I feel kind of stupid ...
> 
> I think it's time I get myself a proper Dump' valve and remove the mini air filter ...


It'll be open at idle if you have a spring in dv that allows it to open at idle, a stiffer spring may overcome that issue ?


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## TT Tom TT

It's got the stock weak yellow spring in it, I'm going to eliminate any risk of running a single piston diverter valve as an atmospheric dump and get a proper dual piston dump valve. Besides, as Beun' has alluded to I think they sound the dogs, I know it's not for everyone though :mrgreen:..


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## Delta4

With a yellow spring you'll be dumping more boost than you need to, not that it matters now, i don't mind the sound of a dump valve unless it sounds like a duck quack :lol:


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## Beunhaas

I did ran the forge dv with the blue spring and shims but it was still open on idle. And the way it vents with this spring is really spikey. lets see how this BOV goes, i can always revert it back to the closed system i'm currently running.


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## intott

Ah sorry, by running off the manifold, you ment the vacuum line not the actual DV. [smiley=cheers.gif]

Managed to grab myself a new 008 for £75 on eBay - they had 5 for sale direct from forge! Still running of the n249 me 8)


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## Beunhaas

intott said:


> Ah sorry, by running off the manifold, you ment the vacuum line not the actual DV. [smiley=cheers.gif]
> 
> Managed to grab myself a new 008 for £75 on eBay - they had 5 for sale direct from forge! Still running of the n249 me 8)


AHHH, yes now i see what the confusion is :lol: 
I was talking about the vaccuum lines indeed! I do like the n249 but the problem with the TIAL BOV is that it has a much larger internal volume and uses 6 mm hose instead of the 4 mm like the stock and forge DV. So the n249 system is undersized for the TIAL giving extreme slow response. So thats why i keep the integraded dv on the n249 for response and part throttle release while the TIAL vaccuum line runs directly to the manifold for full throttle release. Time will tell if it works!

Yes the forge is a great and solid solution and for that price you can't go wrong! Would have kept it if i didn't feel the urge to make changes simply because i can [smiley=cheers.gif]


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## Beunhaas

Did some work on the car with this nice but cold weather. I removed the forge DV and installed the tial BOV. Made some extra vaccuum ports on the manifold and also included an extra port to the charge pipe because i want to measure pressure drop from turbo to throttle body. The other bung after the turbo will be welded on at a later time.

Ran the BOV with the soft spring but it was open at idle, exactly what i don't want. Installed the stiffer spring and it's closed at idle but i do find it a little too stiff for my liking so probably will make a custom spring with some nice specifications. But happy with how the BOV performs overal and ofcourse the epic sound it makes.

A comparisson of the original 20mm dv port vs the 50mm









All welded up. Note the little bung a added for a pressure drop testing.

























With all mounted on the car. It's quite hidden between the battery and the radiator hoses

























I also ordered the stiff wastegate canister from Borg Warner. It's extremely tight down there to install it, so will need some free time to mount it, and then just upp the boost 8)


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## J9NO A

Fantastic build, but any chance of fixing the pictures on the first page?


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## Beunhaas

J9NO A said:


> Fantastic build, but any chance of fixing the pictures on the first page?


Thanks! Yes i found a way to see what picture is behind the broken link so will try to fix them today


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## TT Tom TT

Cool custom fabrication as per usual.

How are you finding the BOV in regards to low end torque? Have you noticed a very small improvement with light throttle and low down revs as the system is now closed loop?

I only ask as I'm curious as this is what I seem to have noticed.


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## HOGG

A year since last updated. We need more POWWWWWERRRR

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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