# Changing fuel pump 'How to'



## lazerjules (Apr 18, 2009)

I am about to do this, so thought I would post up a 'how to', hopefully pics to follow.


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## adapre (May 6, 2009)

Hi mate,

Glad you're doing this. I did mine in January I remember getting it all sealed back up and thinking I'm sure there are a few people that would've appreciated stage by stage photos.

Think the hardest bit about it was getting the right replacement part! Having the smell of petrol on your hands for a few days afterwards is fun too.


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## lazerjules (Apr 18, 2009)

Well I did this today, and to be honest it's so easy it was all over very quickly so didn't take any pics, of course I didn't really want to play with the camera whilst covered in V-power, and having manipulated myself into the space behind the passenger seat I couldn't be bothered to go get the camera.

But for anyone who needs to do this, it is pretty straightforward. In fact I was a little disappointed, for a £200 part I wanted a bit of a challenge! (I am going to regret saying that)


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## TTQ2K2 (Jun 25, 2009)

Here's a HOW TO with pics.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1951856

Does not seem too difficult. this, plus yours, will need to be added to the new FAQ. :wink:

cheers.


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## lazerjules (Apr 18, 2009)

The link to this whole post is already in the contribution. So your link will be there too.


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Having just done this myself I thought I'd add a couple of things to help anyone doing it themselves.

*SAFETY:* I'd recommend disconnection of the battery for safety. Electrical connections inside the tank are not sealed but are exposed to petrol and vapour. This is surprisingly "safe" as the vapour saturation is too high to allow an explosion but once you take the lid off the tank and allow air in, this is no longer the case. Using flash photography in the fume filled car or doing anything that can make a spark like operating a live switch is also not such a good idea - that's why petrochemical and gas industry tools tend to be "intrinsically safe" e.g. not made of carbon steel that could spark if dropped etc. So be careful.

Having the tank 1/3 full or less helps avoid having to immerse your hand in petrol when you have to unclip things before getting the pump out.

The design of the immersed pump in the tank works by pressing it to the bottom of the tank by a spring. This allows it to move up and down with the bottom of the tank. It's held in position by the top cover that the pipes connect to by a sliding pillar that contains the spring. It does appear to be a tangle of parts thrown down a hole but it works well.

The section from the manual above shows the procedure for a 2WD (non Quattro) TT. The Quattro version has a secondary non electrical pump that is powered by a fuel stream through a venturi. The fuel is constantly pumped from one side of the Quattro tank to the main pump side by the action of the secondary pump. Consequently, for the Quattro there are some connections not mentioned in the How To above which are - shown below; (1) Electrical connection to secondary float potentiometer, (2) fuel connection to secondary pump, (3) retaining clip for (4) secondary pump return outflow:










Another difference between 2WD and 4WD is that the alignment arrows for reassembly are at the opposite side.

The retaining clip (3) is released by pulling up with a finger. The retaining piece has two hooks which slip arond the mounting features of the float platform that screws to the side of the pump. The hooks slip into the narrow gap. You need to pull up to unlock the hooks and then away sideways which can be difficult in the confined space. Be careful not to break the thin hooks.

The link that TTQ2K2 posted above shows lots of good pictures: http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1951856

The tapping of the big plastic retaining nut round with a screwdriver, if you don't have the special tool, works well. It's probably best to work at opposite sides alternately to avoid stretching the plastic nut. The screwdriver should have a plastic handle - no metal to metal contact with hammer - to avoid sparks!

DO NOT USE silicone lubricant to aid reassembly of the plastic nut. Silicone contamination in fuel can destroy lambda sensors. Use a new rubber seal. If torquing with special tool assemble dry. If tapping with a screwdriver, Some IPA lubrication may be acceptable as it evaporates and does not contain silicone.

It's best to use gloves when delving your hand into the tank but do not use latex gloves as they will perrish rapidly in the petrol and fall apart. If you can't get suitable gloves then a polyethylene food bag over your hand and wrist, tethered with an elastic band works well.

I used the genuine Audi pump part, which with TTOC discount, for pump and new rubber seal, came in at £211 all in. I heard that the GSF one and other cheaper sources do not have the top piece so you'd need to re-use some of the old parts and crimp the pipes etc. - more to go wrong. A leak here could loose you fuel pressure and cause subtle problems like secondary pump not working or difficulty starting due to priming pressure loss. The Audi part comes with a new float too so replaces a part that may fail in future.


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## dazzadrew1 (Feb 6, 2010)

what are the tel, tel signs of problem with fuel pump.. i know the car wont start but how do you pin point it to the pump and not other issues ..


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

One test is to monitor your lambda probe under full throttle - it should never go lean. If it does it can indicate low fuel pressure. Or a faulty lambda probe :wink:


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## vwjim (Nov 27, 2011)

Hi,

Does anyone know a link to a photo how too showing it done on a roadster? The Bentley manual points you in the direction of the Section 70 - Trim Interior. But doesn't actually say which bits of interior has to be removed.


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## vwjim (Nov 27, 2011)

Replaced my fuel pump today.

I'd say fiddly but not too hard on a RHD Quattro Roadster.

You have to remove the rear centre console panel that covers the speaker
Then remove the panel behind the drivers seat.
Both of the above are covered well in the Bentley manual.
Next remove the storage compartment - couldn't see that in the manual but its a mixture of 2xscrews, torqs fitting and 2xplastic pull clips.
Then three screws to remove the cover plate, (one is a bit obsured, but you don't need to remove anything else to get to it)

Then follow the manual again for pump removal.
The electrical connector was tricky to remove as the lock tab is on the rear face so you're working a bit blind. And the pipe connector inside the tank that you have to 'lift and remove' is a little scary as its really thin plastic that has been in petrol for 10+ years so thought that was bound to snap off. But eventually it wiggled free.

I went to replace the the pump and found that the local parts shop had given me a 2wd version (£180), so that went back and the 4wd version was £380, so went to Audi and they were selling them for £284 then went to another parts outlet and they had one on the shelf, VDO brand so same as what came off for £230. It was just the pump, so swapped over the sender mechanism and the top tank plate and it fitted fine.

I didn't get any new pipes with the pump other than the short section fitted at the factory, so warmed the two old ones with a hot air gun and they came off the old pump barb fittings and pushed on okay to the new pump. (They're the ones that go from the pump up to the tank top plate to feed the flow and return ports)

Been out for a quick test drive and no hesitation any more, and starts on the button without having to hit the underside of the tank with a hammer... :wink:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

As above, the first post is really for the 2wd version, but.

In its basics the quattro 4wd has a "slave pump " in the p/s of the tank.

The second pump isnt powered.
Im going on deduction. there are 2 wires going to the p/s "pump" and it has a level sensor..hence power to the sensor, no powered pump.

Just to rehash what John-H said 
If youre working on a 4wd,there are 3 connections to the passenger side fuel pump
1. 
(a) from the top of the main fuel pump there is a hose..I think this is a pushing(pressure hose) which spins the slave pump
To disconnect this there is a push button lock connection.
(b)Attached to (a) by a ziptie is a 2 wire plug which goes into a socket from the "slave pump"..2 wires only, must be for the slave sensor.

2. A "return pipe" from the "slave pump".
This I think returns fuel from the p/s side to the base of the d/s tank to keep fuel level equal.
This is the only difficult/akward connection of the 3.

The main fuel pump "bucket/swirl pot" has a sender unit screwed on to it by 4 torx screws in my case.
This is not a total surface pressure fit.
3.The return pipe from the p/s fuel pump has a bracket attached to it which hooks over the 2 screws on the main fuel pump which are closest to the passenger side.. 
There is a "hook" on this bracket for your finger.
In essence you pull up on this hook and then slide the bracket out to the side to disengage the return pipe from the main fuel pump bucket.

Replacement you slide the bracket in between the "bucket " and sender mounting and then push down until the bracket hooks over the 2 mounting screws.You can move the whole pump over so this bracket is near the middle of the opening , while you reattach it. Do this bit first,before reattaching the pipe on the top of the pump and the wires.

Like a lot of TT jobs.. this seems like a POP when you get it done,but first time its "sheet dont break" and visions of big bucks if you fup.

btw a block of wood(with mallet) is probably a better bet than a screwdiver for loosening the main plastic locking nut.
Mine had 12 years of grimy dust/dirt on top of the pump..good vacuum and wipe with cloth + cotton buds for those important little places 
I covered the out and return pipes with small plastic bags when they were disconnected.
Its no harm to put a couple of plastic bags over the hole in the fuel tank,when the pump is out.
Saves the possibility of anything falling in and reduces fume build up if youre doing it indoors.

Also when you have an open petrol tank and lots of fumes ,you get visions of


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## Trimmer (Aug 17, 2006)

does anyone have a guide for 225 convertible?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


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## Audijim (Jan 28, 2016)

Hi just read the great post, my fuel pump on my 1.8T audi tt roadster FWD 2003 is playing up and was going to replace it but every supplier i contact want the number off the old part, just wonderd if you can rec-call yours ? if it was the same type of car you replaced your pump on, thanks Jim


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## A8VCG (May 9, 2011)

http://www.deatschwerks.com/images/stor ... tures1.pdf

Have to say, this is one of those jobs that you feel your way into as the "How To" above don't seem to make much sense until afterwards.

I took my time removing it and struggled with the various release fittings. Take your time as familiarity is really important.

I took 4 hours to do this job in my 3.2 Quattro and when i put it back together couldn't get the retainer clip to fit. After a coffee break, I went back at it and 20 minutes saw it done.

Basically, put the unit back in with the square side *sender bracket" facing the rear of the car. Facing the front of the car, the float locates on the right hand side in the tank. Move the whole unit as far as it goes inside the tank and to the RHS. Now, you can get both your hands inside the tank. The retainer bracket then slots where the two brass Torx screws fix the sender bracket to the basket.

If fitted correctly, you can pull it up and release it and then just refit it again before reassembly.


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## bertible (Apr 27, 2016)

Hi 
Has anyone had a bad slave pump or level-sender unit on the secondary side of a Quattro tank? I'm ready to changeout my main pump (have a new VDO pump and the rubber gaskets) But one of my symptoms is a jumpy fuel gauge, so a bit worried about the second float/sensor.

I have searched at parts sites and they seem to have only the G or J main pumps (before and after '02) for the Quattro. Nary a mention of a second pump.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Gary
'00 TT Coupe 225 Quattro
(Japanese LHD export to Canada)


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## Wak (May 6, 2002)

Fyi

Tool for the pump tank collar

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151836178969


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## bertible (Apr 27, 2016)

I"m going to reply to my own post, as I did some further research and found the answer. The "secondary" slave fuel pump on a Quattro is actually termed as a 'Fuel Level Sending unit' at most parts sites, which is why I couldn't find it, but once you find it it can be called a jet suction pump/sending unit. Audi Part # 8L9919673J for pre-2002 models. (suffix G I think for post 2002) As it turns out, my replacement of the primary pump on the weekend (piece of cake with empty tank) seems to have solved my problem, but waiting to see after I've used some gas to see how the gauge reacts.

Gary


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Terminology can be confusing [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## dixiespurs (Aug 24, 2012)

Hi folks, any suggestion on where to source a replacement fuel pump (8L9 919 051 J)?

ECP don't seem to have them and the only other place I can find it by googling is onlinecarparts / buycarparts etc. and unsure how secure and reputable they are. Audi want about £380+ compared to £240 on these sites.

Thanks


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

dixiespurs said:


> Hi folks, any suggestion on where to source a replacement fuel pump (8L9 919 051 J)?
> 
> ECP don't seem to have them and the only other place I can find it by googling is onlinecarparts / buycarparts etc. and unsure how secure and reputable they are. Audi want about £380+ compared to £240 on these sites.
> 
> Thanks


One of the reasons audi's own fuel pump is so expensive is because the bucket/fuel pump container is included.
They dont sell the pump separately.
The 240 from ecp etc is also quite expensive , bucket probably included there too.
You can get the pump on ebay original maker type for around £100-120 with new seals n stuff.(dont go chinese).

You could also go the route I went and get a upgraded(better than original) dw 65 pump for around 240.make sure you buy the quattro version.
(nb this is one of the cases I wouldnt go for for audi dealer parts).


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## dixiespurs (Aug 24, 2012)

so here are the ones I found - 
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/vdo-1736376.html
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vdo/1736376

Both sites pretty much identical and their reviews aren't great so i'm a little skeptical buying from them. Anybody on here purchased from there before or recommend an alternative source for the part?

thanks


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## Tony_uk (Aug 26, 2016)

Hi a little late but I need help what to do.
Story is I had starting issues and bought a fuel pump of what I read about not starting and guy went to put it and he said it was faulty I will need to buy another so he could get me one but it will cost 300. So I said do it got car back all good but petrol gauge is not working??
So due to the guy having g the car for 2 months I did not want to go back to him, so I decided to put it in a garage who is saying it's the wrong pump there is a pipe off which draws petrol from the other tank as it's a split tank, anyway not happy with previous work I phoned the guy up and said what garage has said and he states it's a newer type pump and it's a single pipe one so the other pipe which in his words not a fuel pipe it's like a breather pipe it's not needed with the new type of pump? But the garage is saying that's balls they can fix it for 175 but the guy is saying the gauge just needs calibrating but put half tank in so he can set it, but is it because it's not going to draw from tank 2 let's say so he is just saying half full it cause of that??


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## outdoor stevie (Nov 24, 2013)

The guage issue could be the guage itself or the sender unit which is attached to the fuel pump cage in the tank where the unit may need replacing or just cleaning.
The quattro fuel tank has two fuel pumps one in each part of the tank which has a hump in the middle to go over the propshaft one pump moves fuel over this hump and the other moves it to the engine so which ever garage said this then he seems to know the issue.
If you are in this country then the pump is approx £150 to £200 depending on the type you get plus fitting, if cleaning a sender unit then an hour's labour should cover it, a new sender unit I have no idea so try Audi.
Best of luck as it's always a hassle being caught between two garages.

Stevie


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Hi,

Is this a statement or is there a question you want an answer to?

If you have a quattro you need the correct "main pump" which has a feed from the other side, the main pump is behind the driver seat (in the UK) - this is the only one I have ever changed - but I understand there is more than just a pipe on the passenger side.

why did it take someone 2 months to change a fuel pump? it takes about 30-90 minutes - depending on whether you have bought 
1. the entire pump assembly
2. just the swirl pot
3. just the actual pump and o rings

as 2 and 3 involve dis-assembling / re-assembling the pump

A full OEM fuel pump assembly is expensive, but I got a HAAS swirl pot and pump for about £90 a couple of years ago.

you might find if they didn't know what pump to buy they also forgot to plug in the level sender unit or it is trapper under a pipe etc

best of luck, with your garage selection - there are so many chancers out there, do you go back and demand a proper job...? or cut your losses and find someone you trust especially near petrol..

---- ahh sorry I hadn't realised outdoor Steve had already answered - I am such a slow typer


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

The original garage you took it too haver taken you for a ride and don't know what they are doing. Sounds like they have fitted a FWD pump in your Quattro tank. The pipe that goes across to the other side of the tank goes to a suction jet pump that returns fuel back to the main pump,. There is also an electrical connection to a fuel sender on the passenger side of the tank.
The fuel level is calculated from these 2 readings which is why your gauge doesn't work. You won't ever also be able to run less than about 1/4 tank of fuel as the fuel on the passenger side will be stuck there and not be accessible. Not that you can see the fuel level anyway.


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## sukhiranu (Nov 17, 2018)

After weeks of gradually getting louder, the pump in 2004 225 pump has packed up at 135k miles and needs to be changed. I'm not able to see the "photobucket" pictures at the start of the post as they're all blurry. Any ideas why? Also none of the pic links in https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1 ... t-1951856/
work either... just give me a blank page very confused. 
I've got as far as taking of the cover off under the seat and the connections on the top look manageable for a newbie. What I'm concerned about is if there are any connections/pipes to disconnect on the bottom of the pump inside the tank.
Or do the pipes just dangle into the tank?
Greatly appreciate any help ..thanks.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah... find a working walk-through there are plenty around. It also depends on how much of a pump you have bought, either the full pump, swirl pot, or pump alone. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you b start. You will need to unplug the electric plug inside the tank. A bit blindly then withdraw the whole pump assembly.

Audi Sport Net and vwvortex usually have instructions or try YouTube.


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## sukhiranu (Nov 17, 2018)

Thanks StuartDB, I'm doing a full pump replacement. Despite various google searches have not been able to find a working walk-through yet.. will retry tomorrow.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

Yeah lots of missing images on ASN too.

If you are changing the entire assembly, once you unclip the fuel pipes and tap the big screw cap off it'll all become a bit clearer, you will need to submerge the pump to unclip the extra pump support bracket and electric connection. Then manipulate the assembly out. If you have the entire fuel pump assembly it comes with the level sensor too.

Widen your search to S3 8L too as the instructions are the same.


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Hopefully fuel level is less than 1/4 tank. You can do it with more fuel in it's just more messy/ fiddly.
DW65V install process if you are actually just changing out the pump from the basket.

https://www.deatschwerks.com/files/dw/p ... tures1.pdf

This is from Elsa Win and describes how to remove the fuel pump. You don't need a new gasket, I have had my pump out a few times and reused the old one with no issues. I use a large wide flat blade screwdriver to loosen the black locking ring. Tap the nut around using different tabs on the ring and making sure to have the blade right at the root of the tab to try and avoid knocking them off. I use a wooden Mallet. You don't need much force.
Fuel pumps are different between FWD and quattro . Quattro has the pipes and connections across to the suction jet on the other side of the tank.





View attachment Audi TT fuel pump removal.pdf


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## sukhiranu (Nov 17, 2018)

Thanks both for the responses. Yes I'm doing full pump and mine is a 225 Quattro so has the pipes and connections across to the suction jet on the other side of the tank. 
It is these connections to other side that I'm not sure about as I've not seen any diagrams or how to specific text about how disconnect/connect these again. Is it fairly straightforward? Can these be connected whilst the pump is above the viewing hole or do you have to submerse pump into the tank first? Hopefully It'll be clear once I've removed the old one :?


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

The PDF I uploaded shows you what to do with the connections in the tank. When you remove the top you will need to reach into the tank and disconnect the fuel line that runs across to the suction jet pump , the electrical connector for the level sensor on the other side of the tank and disconnect the plastic bracket from the body of the pump secures the return pipe from the other side of the tank.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

sukhiranu said:


> &#8230;.Yes I'm doing full pump and mine is a 225 Quattro so has the pipes and connections across to the suction jet on the other side of the tank.
> It is these connections to other side that I'm not sure about as I've not seen any diagrams or how to specific text about how disconnect/connect these again. &#8230;.


it'll all become clear when you spend 5 minutes undoing the top.

this is from the comprehensive instructions Karl uploaded. 1 is the electric connector


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## sukhiranu (Nov 17, 2018)

Wow thanks guys..I clicked the first 2 links in your post desertstorm (which are for FWD) but strangely missed the last link which is for the quattro. That is much clearer now - I'll give it go once the new pump arrives. Your help is greatly appreciated, thank you.


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## StuartDB (Feb 10, 2018)

it's pretty easy once you have it undone and look at it - make sure the fuel pipes go on the right way.

and dont smoke whilst the pump is out and the cover is off.

Out of interest why did you get the entire pump assembly? instead of just the swirl pot - or with the case of the excellent DW65v simply the pump? they are pretty expensive if including the level sensor


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## sukhiranu (Nov 17, 2018)

Stuart DB.. I'm a complete DIY novice.. didn't think or know about the skills required to maintain a high mile TT... bought it on a mid life whim.. and despite all the things that are wrong with it I simply love it!  
I've never done car DIY other than change tyres or the battery. I'm only attempting this as the quotes I got from garages ranged from £250 to £450! and the car is only worth about 1k now.

Anyway even for a complete novice, with your guidance I managed to change it with one I got from ebay for £40 today. However it didn't all go to plan :roll: 
During fitting I couldn't secure the "plastic bracket to the body of the pump that secures the return pipe from the other side of the tank" (parts 3&4 in diagram above ) whilst pump was out( the return pipe didn't seem to be long enough) and I could see no way of doing it after the pump was in the tank so I just left it dangling in the tank ( is it secured to the body of the pump when pump is out or in ?). Despite this bracket/pipe not being secured to the pump the car started  .. 
I was jumping for joy as I haven't driven it for about 10 days and took it for a blast and the acceleration was notably quicker :lol: :lol: :lol: . I then filled up the tank (pump said 55 litres) but after paying for the fuel I returned to car to find loads of fuel gushing out underneath near where the pump is. Rather than cause a hazard at the station drove it home about a mile and checked again.. It was still dripping but not gushing out.. In then drove for about 20 miles and parked up at home and it's no longer dripping. Its never leaked prior to the fuel pump change and I'm 100% sure I didn't over tighten the top (I only hand tightned it) and cause a crack/hole. Could that bracket that I didn't secure to the pump body cause the leak ?


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## Delta4 (Jun 19, 2015)

Good on you for getting stuck in, regarding the fuel leak the plastic ring that holds/seals the pump most probably needs to be tightened a tad more, a extension bar and a hammer to tap it round a bit more should do it


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## desertstorm (Apr 25, 2017)

Well done for having a go. As above the top is probably not fully secured. You need to make sure the rubber seal is in place correctly and then tighten well down. The plastic bracket that attaches to the side of the pump is the return feed from the other side of the tank, It is a bit fiddly to put back thats why you need to pay a lot of attention when Taking it apart.
Probably not matter that it's not near the pump as long as the fuel is being dumped into the drivers side by the return it's OK.


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