# Help.. The Instrument Panel has gone crazy



## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

My wife's pride and joy her TT 2012 started up fine this morning but the Rev and Speed and Fuel and Temp have stopped working and a lot of lights are showing on the instrument panel and whilst the indicators light up they make no noise. Other than that it still seems to be driving fine.

The model is a 2012 Diesel Automatic quattro and after attaching a borrowed VAG I get the following that wont clear.

U015500 "LOst Communication with instrument cluster control module"

00447 Excessive Voltage

00532 Supply Voltage Exceeded


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## the_dixtar (Mar 26, 2012)

I'd start off by checking all the fuses personally, could be something simple.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Have already run through the fuses and they seem "visibly" fine


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Instrument cluster fuse is No.33.
Excessive voltage could be alternator Volt Reg playing up or poor connections at battery/alternator.
Hoggy.


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## rajanm1 (Feb 1, 2014)

It'll still be under warranty if it's a 14 plate won't it?
Try and take it to a dealer ASAP.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

rajanm1 said:


> It'll still be under warranty if it's a 14 plate won't it?
> Try and take it to a dealer ASAP.


DOH.. its 2012 not 2014... I blame wine :roll: (will edit)

Have already swapped fuse 33 around..


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## bhoy78 (Oct 30, 2014)

car battery?


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## tttony (Dec 21, 2014)

I've got a feeling that the instrument pod has its own voltage regulator as it works at less than 12 volts, but I may be wrong. There seem to be a lot of issues with the instrument pods reported here at the moment. The cold and damp in the UK probably isn't helping!


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## MisterKyle (Feb 25, 2016)

Hi Guys!
I just had a similar issue fixed today.
Check the entire harness, from the battery through to the dash/ecu for corrosion as apparently these things are made pretty shit and don't last very long, so much for German engineering.
this set me back a hefty 5 hours labour at Audi, so if you know your way around the electronics, have a go yourself. This is my 1st TT and wan't quite brave enough and I might as well claim it on dealer warranty.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Checked the battery with the meter and then checked for the alternator and all seems fine BUT as I did these tests low and behold everything is working as normal.

Now the day it happened was after a hard frost and freeze (we are high up rural with no garage) could it simply be (noting that the battery is in the back with no engine heat to help it) that the extreme cold did something?


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Well sods law strikes.. After a spring summer with no issues ; Today the car starts , the instruments all light up and work for a few seconds before the fuel, oil, revs, speedo just drop back to the zero position ...


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Too high a voltage suggests to me that the alternator is trying too hard to charge the battery at a higher voltage. At the same time the instrument panel says no to the increased voltage.

One of the points where an issue might be is the earth cable from the battery to the body of the car.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Just ran a report and am getting again theerror 00446 .. is my battery simply dying when the weather turns colder?

On start up its around 10v and it settles around 14v will retest tomorrow

TTdriver would a failing batery cause what your describing or a faulty alternator


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ightenhill said:


> Just ran a report and am getting again theerror 00446 .. is my battery simply dying when the weather turns colder?
> 
> On start up its around 10v and it settles around 14v will retest tomorrow
> 
> TTdriver would a failing batery cause what your describing or a faulty alternator


Hi, Yes, could cause high or low volts depending on the situation. 10 volt battery is definately at the end of it's life.
Loss of load (current/amps) could cause high volts. Extremely high load could cause low volts.
Hoggy.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

ightenhill said:


> TTdriver would a failing batery cause what your describing or a faulty alternator


In my limited experience a failing alternator results mostly in an empty battery. A failing battery can cause voltages that are beyond what is considered normal.

Before changing the battery, I would run a few checks on various earth points.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

it only drops to 10v when I turn the ignition for a second.. I thought that was normal ?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ightenhill said:


> it only drops to 10v when I turn the ignition for a second.. I thought that was normal ?


Hi, A good battery should maintain >12 volts with Ign ON. 
May drop to 10 volts while spinning engine over because of the high load required.
Hoggy.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

OK re did the meter this morning.. 12v whilst engine off - 9.7v when ignition turned - 14-15 when idling.. Still get the instrument panel alive for roughly 3 seconds the speed/revs/fuel/oil etc all just turn off


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

Does the instrument panel turn off after 3 secs with the ign key in the first position? (No attempt to start engine)

Or does the panel go off when you activate the starter motor?

A full scan would be useful to see if voltage issues are recorded in multiple controllers.

Some help on the DTCs here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532

I tend to agree with TT-driver; the only component that can generate over voltage is the alternator and it's regulator however their failure modes is usually to fail to charge at all.
It could be that he battery is knackered and the voltage drop too far while turning the starter motor. The alternator is then able to try to push too hard (volts too high) trying to charge the battery. The instrument panel works, if briefly, but seems to be being switched off for its own protection.

I'd suggest a battery load test and watch the voltage - should maintain a minimum of 10v I think (check this). Any battery shop will do that for free, but with the aim of selling you a battery!!


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

The instrument panel stays on if the key is left in the first position - it goes off after 3 seconds when the engine starts

Just did a load test when I turn the ignition on it drops to 9.16

Quick ? when if I change battery do I ned to go to audi for a radio code :twisted: I cant see one in the radio handbook


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## Sodde (Jun 1, 2015)

The key here is 'cold-cranking voltage' which basically is the sustained voltage while the starter is cranking the engine. All batteries in the US are rated from new with a cold-cranking number.....not sure if its the same in the UK now...its been a long time since I lived there. My thought would be that due to the age of your battery and its deteriation over this time, it allows the current to momentarily drop below the threshold of 'ok' and then you get the dash problem. That's my 2-cents worth and believe me I'm kind of a newb on Audi's and my TTS which I've had just over a year (also a 2012).

I doubt that is would be an over charge situation...but its possible. from my experience (was a MV tech for 28 years), overcharged batteries won't survive very long in this state as they overheat and distort the internal plates. Alternators will output higher than 12v at times to recover the battery after discharge (14.5v max comes to mind). You can test the voltage regulator operation by leaving the lights on for a minute, connect a voltmeter across the terminals of the battery and then fire up the engine. The voltage should be higher than 12v and then as then if you take the engine above 1500RPM you should see the voltage slowly decrease back to around 12.5v. This can take a few minutes depending on how depleted the battery got.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Thanks all..Going to try a battery replacement first..


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## Stealth69 (Jun 25, 2012)

Jump it off of another car before changing the battery, see if the problem persists or rob the battery out of another (known good) car and hook it up


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## brittan (May 18, 2007)

ightenhill said:


> Quick ? when if I change battery do I ned to go to audi for a radio code :twisted: I cant see one in the radio handbook


If the radio is the original then it 'remembers' the car it's coded to - so no radio code is required.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

New Battery installed still getting same thing .. speedo etc shuts down after 3 secs approx..

00447 function limitation due to excessive voltage - Upper limit exceeded

00532 Supply voltage - Upper limit exceeded


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Poor earth on alternator mounting points could be the prob. Run a seperate cable from alternator mount to battery Neg post/cable as a test.
Could even be a dash pod processor prob I suppose.
Hoggy.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Will try that in the morning,, Any recommendations for dashpod repairs?


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Ok dumb ? but where is the alternator mount and what cable do i use


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## GaryG (Aug 21, 2016)

The alternator just manages to get into this picture - it is the silver/aluminium thing below and to the left of the dipstick.










The cable for testing can be a battery charger cable - make a good connection between the alternator's casing and the negative battery terminal. If it turns out to be a weak earth, use a good thick insulated cable with "O"-ring connector from the bolt that secures the alternator's bracket, and a suitable connection to the battery.

TBH, I would test with the battery charger cable and then, if that cures the issue, see an auto electrician. It may be no more than poor earths.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Thanks GArry Ill have a look tonight - its aTDI quattro I presume it will be similar..

Im starting to think more and more its the dashpod problem - though I had thought that was more a mk1 problem
...


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## Stealth69 (Jun 25, 2012)

The dash pod problem is a mk1 issue, along with shitty fuel gauge and LCD.

This isn't a dashpod problem, the dashpod works fine but it's getting a snot on when the ignition is turned on because of too much voltage...... not sure why it's chucking out so much voltage, perhaps there's a faulty voltage regulator somewhere?!

(Sorry not particularly clever when it comes to this car's electrics)


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Unplug the alternator & start engine, if gauges still fail & high volts reappears it's not the alternator, but could be a voltage reg in dashpod as processor in dashpod are not going to use 12 volts so probably have their own VRegs.
Must be worth a try.
Hoggy.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

did a voltage reg test its capping at 14.6 is that correct and with revs 14.74

Did the earth test - no difference

Im pretty much out of ideas other than the dashpod itself -


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ightenhill said:


> did a voltage reg test its capping at 14.6 is that correct and with revs 14.74
> 
> Did the earth test - no difference
> 
> Im pretty much out of ideas other than the dashpod itself -


Hi, Voltages appear to be O.K. 
Try disconnecting the alternator as my suggestion.
Hoggy.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Yikes that seems above my skill level

What would that check for out of interest


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ightenhill said:


> Yikes that seems above my skill level
> 
> What would that check for out of interest


Hi, You only have to pull the plug from the alternator & that will prove whether the high voltage spike is associated with the alternator. No alternator & no high volts, probably means it's the dashpod processor/VReg.
Hoggy.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

So is 14.74 to high ?


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## Sodde (Jun 1, 2015)

ightenhill said:


> So is 14.74 to high ?


No, its not high but it should drop over a period of time (as the battery recovers from start etc).


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

ightenhill said:


> So is 14.74 to high ?


Hi, 14.7 V is fine.
Hoggy.


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

Time to get the dash pod out and check the solder points of the voltage regulator. It probably looks a bit like this:


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

GRRR the dashpod people have rung today to say there's nothing wrong with it - they will still give it a good going over in case its an intermittent error they cant reproduce but I seem to be eliminating things but am no closer to a solution - I think its going to have to go to the garage.


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

OK back off holidays decided to have a last look.. Put the dashpod back - no change. still the error. But I can now eliminate the dashpod.

Then I decided to check all wiring again on the battery and noticed this.. When I remove the two top right connections in this pic and reattached them the pod reset and worked fine for 2 mins before shutting off again..










A friend came around and helped out to get a more accurate reading on the voltmeter and revving we are now getting 15.3


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## TT-driver (Sep 14, 2010)

15.3 V is too much, I'd think.
So it's back to checking the alternator and its all connections?


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

TT-driver said:


> 15.3 V is too much, I'd think.
> So it's back to checking the alternator and its all connections?


Looks that way.. I just wondered if removing those top two wires and putting them back and it working for longer than 5 secs before dashpod shut down (about a min) was indicative of anything


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

I don't think 15.3v is too high

If you've had the alternator / voltage regulator / dash pod tested then I'd be scanning the canbus module etc

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

ReTTro fit said:


> I don't think 15.3v is too high
> 
> If you've had the alternator / voltage regulator / dash pod tested then I'd be scanning the canbus module etc
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


does that mean test to see if the canbus is failed or can i connect to this seperately with the vagcom..s orry to sound a bit thick


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

Yes You can connect to all the modules individually 
Engine is "01"
Instrument cluster is "17"
Can gateway is "19"

The gateway controls the power to each module etc

You can also find measuring blocks in each module etc

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Gone to garage now (an independent) hes telling me hes checked evrything and its definatley the dashpod as its giving off 19v (not sure what that means)

Can replace it for 400 quid with a second hand one.. no charge if that doesnt solve it.. just concerned now that he fixes it and Im in the same situ in a few weeks time


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## ReTTro fit (Nov 9, 2014)

£400 !!!

Clocks are about £100 on eBay 
Then get a more reasonable indy to programme them for you

There's also companies offering dash pod repair services for £150

I'd like to see the scan results and fault codes

Would like to know how it's outputting a 19v when the voltage is regulated before it gets to the pod

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

Didnt think I was doing to bad.. Audi want 1500+VAT (and if it doesn't fix the problem putting a new pod in they'll carry on from there --- lol)

I'll have a look though myself and see if I can find a programmer


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## ightenhill (Feb 25, 2016)

So my indie fits the new dashpod..says he left it on for 2 hours and it works fine - but he cant program the immobliser meaning its no good..

So back to where I started and getting seriously frustrated.. AAARRGGHH


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## Steveb&amp;hiswifesTT (Oct 31, 2017)

Hi, Just wondered what the final resolution to this problem was?
Missus called this morning to say the dash is lit up like a Xmas tree and the car won't start.
Coincidence that today is the coldest day of the year?
Any advice greatly appreciated
Cheers
Steve


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Steveb&hiswifesTT said:


> Hi, Just wondered what the final resolution to this problem was?
> Missus called this morning to say the dash is lit up like a Xmas tree and the car won't start.
> Coincidence that today is the coldest day of the year?
> Any advice greatly appreciated
> ...


Hi Steve, You problem is probably just low volts & battery is flat.
If jump starting make sure drivers door is closed when connecting jump battery otherwise you could cause a dashpod problem 
Hoggy.


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## Steveb&amp;hiswifesTT (Oct 31, 2017)

Hi Hoggy, 
Thanks for the response, I suppose I should of raised a new thread really rather than hi-jacking this one!
In my rush I don't think I gave you the full story.
Missus started the car ok (it's a 2012 1.8 with 45K on the clock BTW) and drove 1/2 mile then noticed all the warning lights on dash. She pulled over and turned off the ignition. Car wouldn't start and that's when she rang me. She left it a couple of minutes and then tried again and the car started but with all the warning lights still on. She drove it another 1/2 mile to our local back street garage and left it with him. He's not an Audi specialist but he's a good guy who I trust from previous use. He called to say he suspected that the dashpod had failed but he would be happier if we took the car to Audi for a proper diagnosis and then if they confirmed his diagnosis he would sort the repair. He dropped the car back to us last night and left it on the road with the sidelights on, I went out and moved it onto the drive no problem but now when I try to start the car it does nothing, not even a solenoid click but all the warning lights are still on. The back light isn't on and non of the instruments move from the resting position but occasionally the wipers twitch when the ignition is turned off. I've been out and bought a charger today so will give it a charge and see what happens.
Anyway thanks again for your speedy response, it's forums like this that keep the average Joe sane when the technology takes a dive!
Cheers Steve


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## MarksBlackTT (Nov 29, 2016)

First things first, get a new battery in it


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## Steveb&amp;hiswifesTT (Oct 31, 2017)

Hi guys, desperate help needed as things have gone from bad to worse☹
Had the battery checked aok so decided to take the plunge and remove the dashpod and take it to ECUTESTING in Derby as they are only just up the road. They couldn't find a fault with it but advised to have the rework done anyway in case it was an intermittent fault, seemed to make sense so agreed. Refitted the dark pod today and now it is completely dead and the car starts and runs for 2 seconds then dies. One other odd thing the rear spoiler rises when the ignition is turned on. I've checked the fuse and tried disconnecting the battery to give the ECU a reboot. HELP!!!
Really hope someone can point me in the right direction as the wife's a nurse and relies on the car due to her shifts. 
Thanks in advance guys.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

H Stevei, Check fuse No.15 as there appears to be no power to dashpod so Immobiliser is stopping engine after a few seconds.
Recheck dashpod connections, otherwise, remove pod & return it to Ecutesting.
***EDIT*** just realised it's a MK2 so wrong fuse No. Correct fuse is No 33
Hoggy.


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## Steveb&amp;hiswifesTT (Oct 31, 2017)

Hi Hoggy,
Thanks for coming back to me. In desperation I returned to first principles and started over. I disconnected the battery and removed the dashpod in case I'd made a hash of plugging it back in, was worried I might have mashed a pin or something. Anyway, plugged it all back in, reconnected the battery and hey presto, all back to normal! Still had the EPC and steering warning lights but these went out after 10 yards of driving. A friend has a Snapon reader which showed 2 dozen codes for various systems all saying intermittent connection to instrument cluster. I've made a note of the codes and cleared them and they haven't come back so far, so fingers crossed. 
I can only assume that although I had fuse 33 instrument cluster removed when I refitted the dash this was not enough and the battery should have been disconnected, although ECUtesting advised this was not required. I had previously tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes to give the ECU a reboot but that made no difference.
Thanks again guys for all the comments and the forum in general, great stuff.


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## Casey2018 (Jan 10, 2018)

That's good news! Whoever say this is a mk1 fault couldn't be more wrong, i bought a 14 plate last September with 12k on, just before Christmas my head up display developed a fault! Lines appeared down the display and menus disappeared. Reset it by removing the display fuse and all was fine! Had this problem with my ml1 utter shit! Obviously the processors are complete dog shite.


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