# Help Please, with overheating Mk1 225 =SORTED=



## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi All,

just taken a rapid trip to fill her up and got the overheating warning buzzer and light come on, she was right into the red.

I changed my camshaft position sensor today (old one had gone S/C) and while I was at it I also did the WAKBOX mod, seems like too much of a coincidence? and any advice would be most welcome, thanks :?


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## denTTed (Feb 21, 2007)

Does it have coolant in it? Do the fans kick in when it comes up to temp? remove the thermostat and check it works in boiling water, check the pipe coming off the thermostat gets hot when it reaches temperature.

Worst case scenario is that the water pump is poop, in which case you may as well do the cambelt at the same time. Nothing too tricky just a bit awkward.


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## denTTed (Feb 21, 2007)

Oh and wak box has nothing to do with it. I'm not sure you need to remove the cambelt to do the tensioner, even so it shouldn't have had any effect on anything mechanical, possibly the coolant temp sensor if anything.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Anything is possible, but unlikely to be thermostat, as it usually fails open,check temps using climate control. Are fans cutting-in as temp rises.If not check links/fuses on top of battery.Otherwise probaly temp sensor cheap & easy to replace.
http://video.aol.com/video-detail/audi- ... /302016129
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll check a few things out once shes cools down  thought it strange though that the niether of the fans kicked in when I pulled up onto my drive with her well into the red, when I lifted the bonnet I could hear some strange noises like high pressure water trying to force itself through pipes, maybe paranoia :? the water level in the header tank was norm, after 5 mins it rose up quite high! I was also never help up in traffic, moving all the time, don't know if this info will help


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Lizard, If engine was still running & temp was high then the fans should have been running, check links/fuses on top of battery for corrosion/blown links/fuse etc.
Hoggy,


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi Hoggy, love the diag mode on climate control, learn something new ever day on here, thanks mate, just left her ticking over and when the temp gauge was showing 90c, the engine temp was 90c and the coolent temp was 100c, but then the gauge started to creep above 90c s will check the fan fuses now, cheers bud


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

lizard said:


> Hi Hoggy, love the diag mode on climate control, learn something new ever day on here, thanks mate, just left her ticking over and when the temp gauge was showing 90c, the engine temp was 90c and the coolent temp was 100c, but then the gauge started to creep above 90c s will check the fan fuses now, cheers bud


Fan fuses OK  Started sodding raining now so will have to resume 2moz, fitted an LCR splitter last week so poss drilled through fan wires :x Oh Well time for some beers  I'll let you know what I find Hoggy, thanks.


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

lizard said:


> the engine temp was 90c and the coolent temp was 100c, but then the gauge started to creep above 90c


The dash needle shows 90oC when the coolant temperature is between 80oC and 100oC, to prevent it going up and down like a fiddlers elbow.

It can be alarming though, when it goes above 100oC, as the needled suddenly starts to move up!


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi, well nice and sunny so got the chance to have a play 

Started her up and left ticking over till upto temp.

49C = 75 deg C at DP 75 deg C
49C = 82 deg C at DP 90 deg C
49C = 105 deg C at DP 105 deg C

49C got upto 112 deg C, fans were flat out but temp did'nt seem to want to drop back down, turned on heater and set at HIGH but was blowing cold air, so switched off engine and felt hose coming off thermostat, which was only warm with no pressure there, hence looks like stat has ceased up closed! I know this is strange has anyone else had a stat cease closed? More importantly do you guys agree with my diagnostics? thanks in anticipation for any comments, regards Steve.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Lizard, Yes it appears no flow through rad, so either thermostat failing closed or water pump impellor disentergrating. Water pump impellors usually causes more probs at speed rather than at idle.Think you will have to replace thermostat & believe water pump impellor can be seen when thermostat is out. Always possible water flow through rad restricted by something else,has any one mixed in the wrong antifreeze recently as this can cause coolant to turn into a thick jelly like substance.
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

[smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]

I'm now more frustrated than a midget with a YOYO!!!

Changed the stat today, which is a complete bas! while I was at it I tested the old one in boiling water, and it opened a treat, ran her up to temp again and the hose off the stat housing didn't get hot or pressurised, the hose on the other side of the rad got very hot and pressurised, I thought the flow was from the stat through the rad, etc? there is no blockage the stat side because loadsa coolant pissed out when I removed the old one.
Surely the new stat is opening, and even if the pump was knackered I would still expect the stat hose to get hot and pressurised. I'm sure the coolant is OK and not mixed as Hoggy suggested, therefore a gelled blockage, the coolant is a nice clear pink colour. Well totally stumped now. :? :? :?


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## steveupton (Mar 23, 2010)

Sounds like coolant not circulating to me which would point to water pump or blockage somewhere. Critical to correct diagnosis is knowing which way the coolant flows, anyone on here know?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Lizard, When stat was removed could you see the pump impellors ?. It is known for impellors to be intact but spin on shaft, so could overheat at idle as well. Back flush the rad seems to be next, if pump impellors looked O.K.
Finally replace pump together with cambelt/hyd tensioner etc if all else fails. [smiley=bigcry.gif] 
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi Hoggy, damn, didn't check pump impeller was more concerned about plugging leak with new stat  will try rad next, still does'nt explain why stat hose didn't get warm when stat should have been open? the saga continues........... :? thanks for the advice Hoggy, regards, Steve.


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## denTTed (Feb 21, 2007)

lizard said:


> Hi Hoggy, damn, didn't check pump impeller was more concerned about plugging leak with new stat  will try rad next, still does'nt explain why stat hose didn't get warm when stat should have been open? the saga continues........... :? thanks for the advice Hoggy, regards, Steve.


It does explain it, the pump is directly behind the thermostat, my experience of these is that they are unreliable. Looks like a new one for you, if you did the stat yourself you won't struggle. Do the cam belt at the same time obviously, get ready for some frustrating "It came off so it must go back on" moments. Fortunately the weather is good .

Enjoy


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi Any of you guys got a coolant flow diagram, can't find one on the net


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## peter-ss (Sep 3, 2008)

Here's one.

It looks like the thermostat IS in the return flow, so you could still be looking at a blockage or an airlock. 










1 - Expansion tank 
2 - Filler cap 
3 - Intake manifold 
4 - Heat exchanger 
5 - Cylinder head/cylinder block 
6 - Oil cooler 
7 - Radiator 
8 - Continued coolant circulation pump -V51- 
9 - Coolant pump/thermostat 
10 - Turbocharger


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Brilliant, Thanks V-much Peter


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## Lee-G (Jan 2, 2011)

Just another idea. Could it be your radiator is blocked? The core could be blocked. Taking a pipe off will mean nothing cos coolant could flow around the outside and out the pipe. If one pipe is pressurised (and hot) and the other isn't :x


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## littco (Jan 2, 2011)

There's an easy way to test the water pump.

On the radiator, bottom right as you look at the front of the car, there is the coolant drain. if you get access to this , release the valve and drain all the fluid in the radiator ( shouldn't actually be too much ) Then get a fresh bowl. Now making sure the engine is cold, get someone to start the car while you watch the coolant drain.

If coolant comes out the drain in a steady flow then the pump is working, if it isn't then it could be damaged.

Did you put the thermostat in the right way round, I know it's a stupid question but I have worked on an S3 which was over heating even after the stat was changed, it turned out the owner put the new stat in the wrong way round, so i never opened! It is possible.

Also do you have the correct mixture of coolant to water ?

Is the coolant levels going down? This could indicate a head gasket problem.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

:wink: yep I deffo put the new stat in the right way round, :idea: I'm suspecting the water pump now, I inspected the old stat and noticed slivers of black plastic stuck between the spring coils, could these be from the pump impellor blades? are the impellor blades made of black plastic? :?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Lizard,Yes, OEM pump has plastic impellor.Can disintegrate or spin on shaft.
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Thanks for your help on this one guys, can't be arsed to rip my hands apart again, big [smiley=gorgeous.gif], so gonna send her off to the garage for the pump and timing belt works, expect they will have to flush the system as well to get rid of all the fooking broken impellor bits! :roll:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi lizard, Make sure you get the hydraulic tensioner replaced as well, not part of the Audi kit. Hydraulic tensioner & tensioner 2 different parts.
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Cheers Hoggy, I had the Hydraulic tensioner replaced last time I had the timing belt done, 40K miles ago, do you still think it's worth replacing :?: Audi charged me about £85 for one of those when they did my 80K major service at Audi Nottingham, cost me over £1K the rip off barstewards    Suppose it's worth changing V Belt as well :?: All good fun :lol: or [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

lizard said:


> Cheers Hoggy, I had the Hydraulic tensioner replaced last time I had the timing belt done, 40K miles ago, do you still think it's worth replacing :?: Audi charged me about £85 for one of those when they did my 80K major service at Audi Nottingham, cost me over £1K the rip off barstewards    Suppose it's worth changing V Belt as well :?: All good fun :lol: or [smiley=bigcry.gif]


Just had a quotation from a local supplier, £130.00 for the lot and evidently OEM; Pump, Cam Belt, Hydraulic Tensioner, V belt and tensioner  
Just gotta find a decent garage to do it all now & Not Audi Nottm :lol:


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi lizard. thats very cheap, make sure its OEM & I would prefer the "garage" supplied the OEM parts, then no excuses if things go wrong. If belt stripped/snapped because of poor fitting they could blame the parts you supplied. May be cheaper in the long run,if you intend keeping TT long term.
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hoggy said:


> Hi lizard. thats very cheap, make sure its OEM & I would prefer the "garage" supplied the OEM parts, then no excuses if things go wrong. If belt stripped/snapped because of poor fitting they could blame the parts you supplied. May be cheaper in the long run,if you intend keeping TT long term.
> Hoggy.


Good point Hoggy  deffo take your advice on that one, thanks.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Hi, all OK now, got my babe back and back up to warp 10  , turned out to be the plastic impellor on the water pump had broken, part of it had fallen off, and the impellor was spinning on the shaft, so new pump, timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, v-bent and tensioner, all parts and labour £500.00, thanks you all for your advice and support   

Regards, Steve.


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi Steve, Nice to have feed back & pleased to hear it's sorted.
Hoggy.


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## lizard (May 27, 2009)

Thanks Hoggy, inspired now to get on with the rest of my modifications 8)

Mods so far:

Eibach Pro suspension.
Wak Box.
LCR Splitter.
Debadged Front & Rear.
Rear Carbon Vallance.
Interior carbon bling.
Smoked rear lights.
Team Dynamics Monza-R Wheels, look shyte at mo cuz 38 offset, so need to put 15mm spacers front & 20mm rear to get me to 22 front and 16 rear spec, do you agree or think I should go wider, 20 & 25 for example?

Will be taking out the headlights this weekend to spray silver (silver TT 225), that should be fun, going to try and do it without taking off the front end :roll:

Also thinking of getting the Roof, Mirrors and Spoiler sprayed gloss black  on a mission, gotta look kewl for evenTT 11 [smiley=dude.gif]


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## Nathanho123 (Jul 25, 2012)

going through this right now ..... everything's pointing to water pump ahhhh


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## NIKGRIFF (Dec 3, 2018)

My TT gets up to 115' nearly into the red some days...
I have the display up on the climate control, to double check the temps and they do seem correct.
The fans do work i've had the car sit and idle until they kick in, and they did!
I've had the water pump changed when the cambelt was done a few months ago.

I've found that if i put the heater on, turned up to Max, then literally just have it on blower setting turned to '1' the heat reduces down to about 75' rapidly.

Think this might be the stat????


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