# mcljot's thread - new PCV etc



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Got a printout from my mechanic's VCDS to take home for some bed time reading. Obviously there are things wrong but what do you TT veterans make of it? Mechanic hasn't seen "Engine Torque Monitor" error before. Suggested lambda sensor for "Fuel Trim".

The engine management light is on all the time, and occasionally on corners I'll see the traction control light flash 4 or 5 times quickly, even at low enough speed when the car should definitely not be slipping.

The instrument errors could (maybe?) be solved with a new cluster like the one Sandy's selling? The central locking works 100% of the time although both microswitches are gone (replacements on the way).

Engine:
Fuel Trim (System too lean)
Engine Torque Monitor (Control limit exceeded - intermittent)
Powertrain Data Bus (Missing message from instrument cluster - intermittent)

ABS Brakes:
OK

Auto HVAC:
OK

Airbags:
Supply voltage B+ (Signal too low - intermittent)

Instruments:
Coolant temp sensor (Open or too short to plus - intermittent)
Fuel level sensor (Open or short to plus - intermittent)
Outside air temp sensor (Open or short to plus)
Immobilizer pickup coil (35-10 intermittent)
Key (Signal too low - intermittent)
Sensor for oil level/temperature (Open or short to plus - intermittent)
Supply voltage terminal 30 (Supply voltage too low - intermittent)
Engine Control Module (No communications - intermittent)

AWD:
OK

Centr. Locks:
Supply Voltage Terminal 30 (Signal too low - intermittent)
Signal Wire to interior monitor (Short to ground - intermittent)
Drivers door (Can't lock - intermittent)
Drivers door (Won't safe - intermittent)

Inter. Monitor:
Anti-theft alarm ultra sonic sensor (supply voltage too low - intermittent)

Headlight Range:
OK

Any advice you can give would be hugely appreciated.

Cheers,
Alex


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Fuel trim (System too lean) bank 1. This is first lambda sensor? Will replacing this likely get rid of the engine management light?

CTS I will replace with OEM instead of generic.

Fuel level sensor I'm not that worried about as the fuel gauge and DIS range are accurate? Outside temp sensor is just for the dash readout is it? Or does it have some engine performance function?

Sensor for oil level/temp sounds a bit dodgy, as does no communication to the engine control module. Are these serious errors?

A lot of the rest seems likely battery issues. New battery needed maybe?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, For Fuel trim system lean...click link
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... 171/000369

Oil level sensor faulty, so no low oil level alarm.
Outside temp if failing low, would prevent AirCon working. 
As you say, intermittent low battery volts could be a cause of many others.
Hoggy.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, For Fuel trim system lean...click link
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... 171/000369
> 
> Oil level sensor faulty, so no low oil level alarm.
> ...


Hm interesting that the MAF sensor could cause that, cause I have an intermittent hesitation under acceleration between 2k and 3k rpm, for quarter of a second the revs dip slightly. And I was reading on here that that could be the MAF sensor (among other things, like the CTS).

New oil level sensor then? They're pricey! I will clear the faults and drive for a while and see which ones come back.

Any idea on the Engine torque monitor?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Engine torque monitor. Click link

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17743/P1335

Hoggy.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, Engine torque monitor. Click link
> 
> http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17743/P1335
> 
> Hoggy.


Thank you, very useful wiki!


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Went for a spin with my MAF sensor unplugged and the TC light is on all the time now. From reading on here a MAF failure is able to trigger the TC light, seems odd though?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, Fault alarm should clear after a couple runs, once faulty MAF replaced.
Hoggy.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Right you are, master Hoggy. As always!

After plugging the MAF back in the car is lumpy as fook. Massive drop in revs around 2300rpm on acceleration, like the car buries its nose in the ground, and I can hear the pssssshht air recirculation even though I keep the throttle on. I read another thread about this today but I can't find it since. Anyway, given that me unplugging and plugging the MAF made it much worse is it safe enough to say the contacts in the socket and plug might be at fault dirty/grimy? It's safe to give them a good spray with contact cleaner?

Honestly I hear a lot more air flowing/whistling in the last few days, and the pssssshht recirc noise seems much much louder. I've put it down to having drilled holes in the airbox, but I have to say I'm not keen on it! Sounds like the turbo is scraping as it spins or something! Seems out of proportion to the effect a few holes in the airbox would have?


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## Hoggy (May 8, 2002)

Hi, If performance/running improved with MAF disconnected replace MAF with OEM Bosch.Cleaning contacts won't do any harm, although it appears you have many more prob, air leaks etc I suspect.
Hoggy.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hoggy said:


> Hi, If performance/running improved with MAF disconnected replace MAF with OEM Bosch.Cleaning contacts won't do any harm, although it appears you have *many more prob*, air leaks etc I suspect.
> Hoggy.


Oh joy! Haha 

Cleaning contacts made no difference. New MAF meter on Monday. Yes I expect plenty of leaks as well [smiley=bigcry.gif]


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Today I put in a new MAF sensor and a coolant temperature sensor and it's running much better. Going to get the codes cleared tomorrow and I'll drive for a while and see what comes back. The coolant temp sensor seems fairly loosely fitted in its little hole! But Wak's page about it says that that's normal, and it's not leaking at all so I reckon it's fine.

After 5 minutes of driving, the hesitation (which had got really bad) is gone completely and the idling is much more consistent. The revs needle doesn't move at all now at idle.

There is still the hissing noise on acceleration and the recirc psssssshht which I'm not keen on, but maybe it's just part of having drilled holes in my air box. I tried to take a video of it but my phone wouldn't pick it up. Still need to check for leaks [smiley=bomb.gif]

But all in all, a good day for my TT! I went for a spirited drive and love the power on tap now that the hesitant acceleration is fixed! :lol:


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

OK, well after some more driving last night it appears that the drop in revs was still there but was greatly improved. Instead of it happening every time accelerating past 2k revs, it was only happening once every 20 times.

Got the car scanned this morning with VCDS and there was a new error, about the boost pressure regulator (N75) being faulty. Seems to make sense that that might explain the drop in revs and the pssssht recirculation noise even though I'm still accelerating? Found a few threads on here which discussed similar, but didn't find confirmation.

Before I drop money on a replacement N75, might it be the diverter valve instead? N249 wasn't showing a fault on the scan so it's not likely gonna be that? Or something else that I should investigate? Car is totally standard, no map or upgraded parts. [smiley=book2.gif]


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Apologies for the quadruple post :roll:

Are these caster angles anything that need rectifying?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

Balancing camber is more important than caster. If you can't achieve camber balance at the ball joints (see Mk1 KB) you may need the sub frame moving - this will affect camber, caster and toe balance (steering wheel position) but not toe in/out. Check the condition of your rubber and ball joints though - no point in adjusting if you have play.

You are doing the right thing with the scan errors - replacing the obvious and resetting, gathering further error etc.The excess torque could be due to over boost due to faulty N75 but you can also get this with lean mixture e.g faulty fuel pump. Coolant sensor can cause faults as it affects mixture mapping and lambda will affect fuel trim as can failing coil packs. Logging the data on a power run can be revealing (e.g. lambda (narrow band) dropping out on full throttle when fuel should be rich).

Logging can save you money but often ends in a guess. Certainly worth trying.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

John-H said:


> You are doing the right thing with the scan errors - replacing the obvious and resetting, gathering further error etc.


Hi John, thanks for the response. As is probably clear I don't know this stuff but am learning a lot as I go, thanks to the helpful input of this forum. A bit of gentle encouragement like this helps a lot! 



John-H said:


> The excess torque could be due to over boost due to faulty N75 but you can also get this with lean mixture e.g faulty fuel pump. Coolant sensor can cause faults as it affects mixture mapping and lambda will affect fuel trim as can failing coil packs.


Interestingly, my engine management light has not come back on yet today since clearing the errors this morning. All of the previous times the codes have been cleared, the engine light has come back within 10 minutes of driving. I saw on the Ross Tech wiki that two possible causes of the torque error are faulty MAF and faulty CTS. So maybe with the new MAF and CTS, the error and the engine light won't come back (crosses fingers!).



John-H said:


> Logging can save you money but often ends in a guess. Certainly worth trying.


This is something I'll have to get my mechanic to do. It'll have to wait a week or so, I'll see how I get on in the meantime. Would replacing the N75 be premature at this stage?


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## John-H (Jul 13, 2005)

It's an expense. If having fixed other things the fault doesn't reoccur I'd count yourself lucky


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

John-H said:


> It's an expense. If having fixed other things the fault doesn't reoccur I'd count yourself lucky


Still have acceleration problem though, around 2300rpm drop in power and I hear the pssshht recirculation noise even with pedal to the floor. From what I've read and my basic understanding of how it all works, I presume that in normal operation this noise is the excess air that the turbo has compressed being sent back into the TIP (or some other part of the air intake end of things). *Excess* air because throttle has been let off and it is not needed in the engine.

But for me it recirculates the air prematurely, while the throttle is still open. Hence faulty N75 :?:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

ist thing Dunno  .. hard accell
there is overboost initially so .I anyway get "psschitt" ,like the german orange drink :roll: , a lot..more so since the remap.
It goes well.. probly an experienced TT driver wouldnt think so !
but has to be fully warm .
The recirc /dv valve you can test manually ( have to take it off) .
Boost leaks.. and I might have some dunno, but I checked all the little tubes, ones under the inlet manifold etc and nothing obvious.
When cold yes.. it sometimes feels a little hesitant could be the colder plugs, dunno.
Im gonna test myself for a "flat spot"

The n75 thing I see mentioned a lot ok


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

OK so, looking around for leaks and I spotted these three plugs which don't look seated at all. What are they?



















Middle one has a blue ribbed plug thing which is sticking out of its receptor and feels loose. One closest to coolant tank has an off-white ribbed plug thing, similarly loose.

Tried pushing them into place gently but they didn't want to go. Wasn't sure about pushing them hard


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Spotted this as well, not sure what this pipe is but it travels whole width of the car below the fans behind the front bumper. Is it intercooler plumbing?

Big gap in the weld surely not right??


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Seemingly the rusty weld with gap in it is not two pipes joining, but a bracket joining the intercooler cross pipe.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Spotted this as well, not sure what this pipe is but it travels whole width of the car below the fans behind the front bumper. Is it intercooler plumbing?
> 
> Big gap in the weld surely not right??


Nothing wrong there.

you really need to do a boost leak test.

check the 2 pipes shown at the bottom of this page.
Check the turbo to air mass pipe tip for leaks. 
Also check the charge pipe to turbo red pipe behind engine for splits.

http://www.wak-tt.com/mods/boostgauge/boostgauge.htm


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> OK so, looking around for leaks and I spotted these three plugs which don't look seated at all. What are they?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nothing wrong here either :wink: they look like this so don't worry and g2y a boost leak test done :x


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > you really need to do a boost leak test


Believe me, it's top of my to-do list! 

Thanks for the input, weird that those plug things are so loose


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > mcljot said:
> ...


That's how they plug in mcljot.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> That's how they plug in mcljot.


Weird that they appear so loose while actually being OK* :lol:


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > That's how they plug in mcljot.
> ...


Vag for you mate. trying to play with your head :wink:


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


Hah I got that 

So I shouldn't bother with a boost leak test then no? Waste of time you reckon? :wink:


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > mcljot said:
> ...


That you definitely need to do as your swooshing which doesn't sound good!, why if your engine swooshes out


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> no need to do a boost leak test, it's a waste of time


when the man's right, the man's right!
  :lol: :roll:


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > no need to do a boost leak test, it's a waste of time
> ...


You piss taker :lol:


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Well I have no leaks anywhere, so that's good news I suppose. The mechanic (different to my usual guy) reckons it's likely a turbo problem though which would be s***. He said the last thing to rule out would be the passenger side intercooler, I said I'd check it out myself as dropping the bumper takes ages and I could do it to save half a day's work. He said there were some boost hoses which should be pressurised when revving but that were soft... not sure which hoses, will have a look myself later.

He also popped on a replacement boost pressure regulator he had in the shop, made no difference (there was an error for it on VCDS).

So - does it seem likely that it's a turbo problem? Main symptom is intermittent loss of boost and recirculation noise even while under acceleration. Sometimes it seems like it boosts all the way to the redline (usually pedal to the floor) but with more tentative acceleration it seems to bog down and recirculate air somewhere between 2k and 3k rpm.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

You could try to do a run with the diverter valve hose disconnected/clamped to see if it is leaking boost. Also listen if the sound is gone that you described as recirculating boost. Is it the original DV or upgraded?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> You could try to do a run with the diverter valve hose disconnected/clamped to see if it is leaking boost. Also listen if the sound is gone that you described as recirculating boost. Is it the original DV or upgraded?


Great, thanks - I'll do that and see how I get on. Everything is standard equipment.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> You could try to do a run with the diverter valve hose disconnected/clamped to see if it is leaking boost. Also listen if the sound is gone that you described as recirculating boost. Is it the original DV or upgraded?


Clamped the diverter valve hose running from the charge pipe to the DV. The recirc noise is gone (as expected) and I didn't have the loss of boost between 2k and 3k rpm, although I didn't drive for very long. Is it OK to drive like this for half a day?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

So it's the DV to blame here?.

you can even drive it as you were so no need to block it off and drive.

IMO just get an OEM divertor.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> So it's the DV to blame here?.
> 
> you can even drive it as you were so no need to block it off and drive.
> 
> IMO just get an OEM divertor.


Yes it seems like the DV wasn't holding against the pressure and just pissed air through back into the tip. But under hard acceleration for some reason it seemed OK and didn't open and recirc until throttle was let off :?:

How do you mean drive it as I was? Drive it with the DV leaking? Ah yeah I know but I only want to clamp it off for half a day so I can be sure that the problem has gone (before I buy a replacement DV). It can be quite intermittent and I wouldn't trust that my short spin just now was conclusive. And I'm not 100% sure it's OK to drive with it clamped, air flowing back through the turbo?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > So it's the DV to blame here?.
> ...


I see, yes drive clamped to make sure it is the dv but judging by what you've said it could well be the dv. when I replaced mine with an oem DV car was a lot more responsive. 

Good call from Beunhaas [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Sandy


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

You can test the dv for leaks on the membrane thingy if you take it off.

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/VAGLi ... _Valve.pdf

One oem type good..older one bad ..I forget since its awhile since I checked but 710J I think is the crappier old one and 710N the better newer type (could be wrong). 
Theres threads about it on the forum

Also another supplier(other than bosch) was oem fitted for awhile..that I also forget 
if you look it up youll find it. Theyre supposed to be good too.
Thats if you agree with the theory that oem is at least as good as forge ones.

Wak suggested to me to test the actual turbo actuator.
means disconnecting the tube from the rear of the n75 setup and pressurising it to see if actuator moves at 5-6 psi.
A bike pump wi a pressure gauge would be good.
I bought one of the cheapo lidl bike pumps sometime back, havent used it yet.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> I see, yes drive clamped to make sure it is the dv


I've heard elsewhere that this isn't recommended - you sure it's OK?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> You can test the dv for leaks on the membrane thingy if you take it off.
> 
> http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/VAGLi ... _Valve.pdf


Wujja look at that, a PDF called "Testing a Bosch Diverter Valve" :-*

Cool I found various threads about the differences between diverter valves. I'll have a go pressurising the turbo actuator as well, hopefully tomorrow. Will prob be going OEM as I think they're only around €40 and I'm not keen on making the recirc noise louder!


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > I see, yes drive clamped to make sure it is the dv
> ...


Doing this would just lose boost.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Sandy said:
> ...


And the excess compressed air that can't escape through the DV back into the TIP doesn't damage the turbo by flowing back through it? Just want to be sure! [smiley=bomb.gif]


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Was just about to edit lol

Have you checked for suction on thr pipe going into the dv coming from the SAI n249 valve on the cam cover?.

I can't be 100% sure but from what I can remember the SAI sucks on the valve to open the diaphragm in the dv so if that particular pipe was split or the sai failed then it would be as though the pipes have been blocked off.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

You can drive your car with the DV hose clamped but wil put extra stresses on the turbo bearings. Some turbocharged cars dont have an DV at all. It was only a simple test to rule out some other components after the turbo, not a permanent fix.

If the hose is split, then it was behind where it was clamped as the noise was gone and no boost loss was felt.
I would put my money on the DV it self as failure on the electric valve on the rocker cover is pretty rare.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> It was only a simple test to rule out some other components after the turbo, not a permanent fix.


A very handy test indeed, that may have just shown me the solution! I wasn't planning on it being a permanent fix, but before buying a replacement DV I wanted to drive for several hours with the hose clamped to make sure the problem had definitely gone away. But now I'll test the DV to see if the diaphragm is collapsing. None of the hoses are split. Thanks a million, I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow 



Sandy said:


> I can't be 100% sure but from what I can remember the SAI sucks on the valve to open the diaphragm in the dv so if that particular pipe was split or the sai failed then it would be as though the pipes have been blocked off.


Will check this for suction in the morning, there are no splits but maybe the sai is gone. I'll investigate, cheers! [smiley=book2.gif]


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

:wink: I would think your correct if all else has been checked Beunhaas.

I didn't say the sai has failed but merely a suction for the dv itself as you would get a fault error code for the sai of it had failed mcljot  but do check it anyway.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> :wink: I would think your correct if all else has been checked Beunhaas.
> 
> I didn't say the sai has failed but merely a suction for the dv itself as you would get a fault error code for the sai of it had failed mcljot  but do check it anyway.


Hm was only getting a code for the n75, tried another n75 (second hand genuine) which I believe to be OK and still had the code. I'll see how I get on tomorrow anyhow!


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > :wink: I would think your correct if all else has been checked Beunhaas.
> ...


Hope you figure it out.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Testing my diverter valve here. It's very very hard to push the piston down the channel but my thumb blocking the vacuum hose side seems to hold the piston up until I release it and it goes "thunk" back into place. I'm guessing it's supposed to be this hard to push the piston because my problem seems like the valve is open too much of the time, rather than struggling to open?

Edit: vacuum seems OK on the vacuum line. Dunno if it would be strong enough to pull against the mighty strength of the spring and open the valve, but I'm guessing it is able!


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Here's a video of the DV being tested.






I'm gonna stick the vacuum hose back onto it and check if the vacuum is strong enough to open the valve.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Right - sorry for the triple post here!

The vacuum is plenty strong enough to open the valve. It actually opens the valve all the time, idling at 900rpm the valve is all the way open (further than I could get it by hand) and there's no change revving to 4k rpm. Didn't want to rev further. Surely that's not right??

Does the vacuum system need clutching/gear changes to alter the position of the valve?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Take the electrical connector off the n75 and test it with a multi meter and it should read 25-35ohms anything lower is buggered.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> Take the electrical connector off the n75 and test it with a multi meter and it should read 25-35ohms anything lower is buggered.


Have no multimeter, anything else I could try?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

By removing the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate actuator you are basically disabling the actuator - the wastegate will never open. The boost will be higher as it is no longer being limited. If you go WOT you run the risk of overboosting and running lean or detonating. If you remove the line and are able to achieve the correct amount of boost without hesitation (whilst being careful not to overboost) then you may have a bad N75. If you remove the line and it runs the same then you have a wastegate problem, turbo problem, or boost leak.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> By removing the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate actuator you are basically disabling the actuator - the wastegate will never open. The boost will be higher as it is no longer being limited. If you go WOT you run the risk of overboosting and running lean or detonating. If you remove the line and are able to achieve the correct amount of boost without hesitation (whilst being careful not to overboost) then you may have a bad N75. If you remove the line and it runs the same then you have a wastegate problem, turbo problem, or boost leak.


Cool cheers for that.

WOT = wide open throttle?
Wastegate = diverter valve?
Wastegate actuator = the nipple on top of the DV for vacuum line?

Did a series of runs earlier on:

#1 DV clamped off from the charge pipe
Ran with consistent boost, did a series of accelerations in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th from 1k to 3500rpm and there was no hesitation

#2 Ran with vacuum line disconnected from top of DV
This should be exactly the same as #1 but it ran like crap? Got half way up the road and car was struggling to make 1k rpm. Popped the hose back on and drove home. Could this have been because the hose was vacuuming up hot engine bay air or something?

#3 Ran again with vacuum line disconnected
Ran with consistent boost, did a series of accelerations and seemed OK

#4 Ran with vacuum line connected up again
Ran OK, consistent boost, not lumpy

So it's a right pain in the hole how it's not consistent! Makes tracking it down trickier... :?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Pain in the hole is a more Irish expression, but I think all get the reference :lol:

Mine isnt perfect either  usually when not fully warmed up , when its good n hot nps but still Ill give a go at diagnosis when the(our) cables arrive from faraway 

Cos these bits n75, maf etc are kind of expensive.
I think Ill have a go at Maf sensor cleaning first before then, see waks site.

I did get a small lidlbike foot pump awhile back as mentioned, and also a lidl multimeter(still in box!)
You can allways find something in there .. that you might use 

I havent checked the wshp manual for stuff much yet either 

Most of the TT time in the past year has been on external appearance , brakes , suspension and wheels,couple of engine hoses. tho a self done sumpdrop pump filter clean/dipstick replacement thing was v neccessary.

google audi tt mk1 wastegate (just for example)

Theres a lot of links and many of em back here


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

If you disconnect the vaccuum hose on top of the DV there should be vaccuum/under pressure on the hose even if you rev it because our engines dont build boost while revving the hell out of it. This 'leak' causes a verry rough engine. When driving it with this hose disconnected is vents some boost to atmosphere while driving so acceleration is a bit down on power.

Running the car with the wastegate actuator hose disconnected (same as electically disconnected) means the only force to close it is the spring inside giving you only 0.35 bar (5 psi) of boost. Slow as hell and you cant test anything boost related

This deffinately does make things more complicated


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> Mine isnt perfect either  usually when not fully warmed up , when its good n hot nps but still Ill give a go at diagnosis when the(our) cables arrive from faraway


Mine's definitely better hot as well. Can't remember did you get the express postage?

Yeah if the parts were only 15 quid each, I'd replace the n249, n75 and DV but I just spent €150 on a MAF which may not have been faulty in the first place :lol: so would like to get it right next time!



Beunhaas said:


> If you disconnect the vaccuum hose on top of the DV there should be vaccuum/under pressure on the hose even if you rev it because our engines dont build boost while revving the hell out of it.


Yep I had consistent vacuum on this hose. Should there be enough vacuum at idle to open the valve fully?



Beunhaas said:


> This 'leak' causes a verry rough engine. When driving it with this hose disconnected is vents some boost to atmosphere while driving so acceleration is a bit down on power.d


When you say leak, do you mean that the vacuum doesn't meet resistance and just continues to suck air in?



Beunhaas said:


> Running the car with the wastegate actuator hose disconnected (same as electically disconnected) means the only force to close it is the spring inside giving you only 0.35 bar (5 psi) of boost. Slow as hell and you cant test anything boost related


The wastegate actuator hose is the vacuum line on the top of the DV, yeah? With no vacuum in this line (i.e. with the line disconnected in my case) doesn't the spring just keep the valve closed with no chance of it opening i.e. maximum boost?

I'll do some more testing when I get a chance and hopefully get some more consistent results. Should the DV be open at idle? Would I need to be in gear, driving at boost rpm in order for the DV to close? I've googled and been getting conflicting opinions.


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I'm not sure about the DV on idle. I will check mine tomorrow to see if its open at idle.

With the vaccuum hose disconnected the hose keeps sucking in air until the turbo wil start to make boost. I dont know exactly when the electric valve opens and uses the vaccuum chamber (Black box on rockercover) to help opening the DV faster.

Yeah vaccuum line disconnected keeps the DV always closed.

You could test the most basic setup in wich you simply connect the vaccuum hose on the top of the DV directly using a T piece on an existing hose coming directly from the inlet manifold. This way the DV gets opened when throttle is lifted and pushed close when boosting


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Well, today I did something incredibly stupid - closed the passenger door with both the inside and outside handle disconnected from the lock mechanism! It was just for a second to test if the new microswitch worked. Stupid as I am, in that instant I figured that turning the key would open the door lock mechanism... but of course it doesn't.



I've tried lifting the door card off from the inside (with the door shut) but it won't budge enough for me to pull the door release cable. Anything I can do?

 [smiley=bomb.gif] [smiley=bigcry.gif]


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Well, today I did something incredibly stupid - closed the passenger door with both the inside and outside handle disconnected from the lock mechanism! It was just for a second to test if the new microswitch worked. Stupid as I am, in that instant I figured that turning the key would open the door lock mechanism... but of course it doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Press the centre button to release the boot as it's a coupe :wink: then stumble in like an idiot :lol:

Your in lol if you've taken the 30torx bit out the handle then you'll need to force the card up as it's the only way.


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Well, today I did something incredibly stupid - closed the passenger door with both the inside and outside handle disconnected from the lock mechanism! It was just for a second to test if the new microswitch worked. Stupid as I am, in that instant I figured that turning the key would open the door lock mechanism... but of course it doesn't.
> ...


I can get in through the driver door, it's just the passenger door that's stuck closed. I'll have another go at forcing the card up!


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

drop the window and pull the top of the card over and then try sliding it off :wink:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Crisis averted! Dropped the window and was able to fit a metal ruler down inside the gap and activate the outside door handle latch 

An awful fool, me!


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Your welcome.


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Phew 

good I can post this now :lol:

ow..

Something I posted 10 days ago



3TT3 said:


> ----------------
> The drivers door microswitch I did myself , follwing guides on here
> a. Inner door panel off following waks guide
> ch
> ...


mcl takes 3tt3 off his cmas list!

Thatll come back and bite me sometime in the future I bet!


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> Phew
> 
> good I can post this now :lol:
> 
> ...


Hahahaha feck sake, couldn't make it up. Where were you an hour ago when I locked myself out of the passenger door?? I'm dangerous left to my own devices


----------



## JayReed (Jul 9, 2015)

Haven't read all the thread but I had a lot of those faults with my dashpod failure. Sent it off for repair at bba and its cleared them, Have a few left but nothing major


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

JayReed said:


> Haven't read all the thread but I had a lot of those faults with my dashpod failure. Sent it off for repair at bba and its cleared them, Have a few left but nothing major


Cool thanks, I figured quite a few of them were cluster related (or battery related). Not too worried about those ones really!


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Yeh well on the door thing,
You got it sorted ok wi a bit of input from Sandy.

Ive seen similar even before I tried my own microswitch repair and ,peeps digging around to get the door open.
Mainly just mark the notches on the cable grippers and should be good .
I had a big fat strip of masking tape with 'test" written on it in case I forgot :lol:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Well I've replaced my hazards switch twice now, both times second hand but purportedly working, and all three of them click like a mad b*****d. Which makes me wonder if it's something else? I don't have any other odd behaviour like lights flashing when they shouldn't or anything. Just clicking, a lot. For maybe 20 seconds after I've used the indicator. Any ideas?


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Well I've replaced my hazards switch twice now, both times second hand but purportedly working, and all three of them click like a mad b*****d. Which makes me wonder if it's something else? I don't have any other odd behaviour like lights flashing when they shouldn't or anything. Just clicking, a lot. For maybe 20 seconds after I've used the indicator. Any ideas?


Indicator stalk mcljot


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

If it is the stalk^
New febi one from Micks garage is about 40 euro.
How do I know this?.. Well thats where I got mystalk with cc module built in, and yours already has cc..so thats what yould need.
Is the relay action built in to the hazard warning switch? or is there a separate relay?
Ive seen there is some mod, where you can get the indicator to flash for 3 sec if you just flick the stalk.
Doesnt worry me  I just flicktill I get one flash when changing lanes.

If there is a separate relay or it works like one I had on a 1973 audi 80(no I didnt buy it new) you can break it apart n sand the contact breakers :lol:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Well I've replaced my hazards switch twice now, both times second hand but purportedly working, and all three of them click like a mad b*****d. Which makes me wonder if it's something else? I don't have any other odd behaviour like lights flashing when they shouldn't or anything. Just clicking, a lot. For maybe 20 seconds after I've used the indicator. Any ideas?
> ...


Would seem like the first place to start alright  :roll: haven't found anything about it on the great resource that is the TTF though. Might there be a way of testing it before buying a new one?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> If it is the stalk^
> New febi one from Micks garage is about 40 euro.
> How do I know this?.. Well thats where I got mystalk with cc module built in, and yours already has cc..so thats what yould need.
> Is the relay action built in to the hazard warning switch? or is there a separate relay?
> ...


Cool I'm guessing it'd be plug and play for me then? From what I gather the relay is built into the black plastic box of the hazards switch.

Yeah actually I miss the comfort lane change feature going back in the years from newer cars to the 2000 TT. I'm so spoiled. I miss an arm rest terribly as well. Altho the TT has heated seats which I've never had before, so now my list of pre-requisites for any car I ever have is: half bucket seats or equivalent comfiness, cruise control, heated seats, 6 speed, arm rest :lol:


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > mcljot said:
> ...


Remove the stalk and check the contacts, maybe try clean the contacts with electrical contact cleaner then dry off and maybe petroleum jelly on it and try it.


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Well I've replaced my hazards switch twice now, both times second hand but purportedly working, and all three of them click like a mad bastard. Which makes me wonder if it's something else? I don't have any other odd behaviour like lights flashing when they shouldn't or anything. Just clicking, a lot. For maybe 20 seconds after I've used the indicator. Any ideas?
> ...


I'll give it a shot!


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > mcljot said:
> ...


ticky ticky ticky ticky ticky 
ticky ticky ticky ticky ticky

So annoying :lol:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> ticky ticky ticky ticky ticky
> ticky ticky ticky ticky ticky
> 
> So annoying :lol:


Haha aw god stop it's a nightmare. Did you have it too?


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > ticky ticky ticky ticky ticky
> ...


Yes mcljot, that's how I know what noise it makes :lol:

I tried to clean the stalk but ended up buying a stalk and finally got rid of that flicking noise :mrgreen:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> Yes mcljot, that's how I know what noise it makes :lol:


Haha feck off 

A hearty dose of contact cleaner sprayed into the steering column while moving indicator up and down has done the trick! No more tick ticky ticky... ticky.... tick tick.... ticky ti-ti-tick... ticky :mrgreen:

3TT3 I ordered that same n249 that you got, should be here this week. Any update on if your hesitation is totally gone?


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > Yes mcljot, that's how I know what noise it makes :lol:
> ...


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Sandy said:


> What??? I was only stating the obvious dude :?


I know - I was just kidding - feck off is cheerful and friendly, maybe doesn't come across on text or if you're not Irish! Sorry! :roll: 8) :-*


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

mcljot said:


> 3TT3 I ordered that same n249 that you got, should be here this week. Any update on if your hesitation is totally gone?


 The hesitation(getting bogged down at times like the boost was cut) seems to be gone,at least I cant get it back for now :lol:

Like I said tho it was only really when engine was warm, not hot or cold.
I still get kind of a double kick on boost or performance (whichever  ),in a good way above 3200 + or so.
Im not 100% sure on the n249 operation either..kind of a boost/vacuum smoother thing 

So it seems like its better than before.. now Im beginning to wonder was it there at all !
Either way I hope the cable hurries up "slow plane from China/Australia " to be able to read stuff instead of maybe.


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > 3TT3 I ordered that same n249 that you got, should be here this week. Any update on if your hesitation is totally gone?
> ...


Well fingers crossed for me too then! I'd never be as lucky as to replace one part and fix all my problems


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > What??? I was only stating the obvious dude :?
> ...


You Irish git :lol: :-*


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Funnily enough, I used to work with an Irish bloke and that guy used to crack everyone up with his jokes


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Haha Sandy you scamp :lol:

Just got my n249 in the post and popped it on. Those fooking single use Audi hose clamps are a real PITA! Fingers crossed it will make a difference, not holding my breath tho


----------



## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

scamp :lol:

Hope it sorts your issue out buddy 

oh and get yourself some decent hose clamps fgs :mrgreen:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Ha cheers me too! My VCDS also arrived from China so gonna plug her in and see what's what and take her for a spin.


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Haha Sandy you scamp :lol:
> 
> Just got my n249 in the post and popped it on. Those fooking single use Audi hose clamps are a real PITA! Fingers crossed it will make a difference, not holding my breath tho


My clamps were the 3 prong gripper type clamps (whatever theyre called  I just used them again :-o .
Im still waiting on a new 'refurbished" ie one that will hold more than a 10 min charge :lol: battery for laptop.
At present I can only "log" in my garage !


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Haha Sandy you scamp :lol:
> ...


When I go into Options on mine and click Test, it says it's all OK but the last thing on the list is "CAN: Not ready" and then when I try to run a scan, it fails to communicate. What is it I'm doing wrong?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Does the ignition have to be on?


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Does the ignition have to be on?


No that screen is fine!
Juist click ok and then save and You're ready to go! :wink:


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I dont know about Mac stuff and the emulation.
Wot I did
1. I thought id have to do all the usb driver loading from the tcd site, but no the vcds software loaded its own driver.

2. Install software but dont launch it then clik finish

3. then put cable in usb port and driver is auto loaded

4. then do test

5. then save the config

6. then connect cable to car and run auto scan,it comes up with a couple of auto options, but I just scrolled downthru the list to audi tt 1999-2007 cliked on that n off it went.
After that all Ive gone to is the measuring blocks for data logging.

I just went with specifying the make.
Unless its some prob with mac emulation, have a look thru the tcds site knowledge if there are no articles on the obds2 site..or maybe someone here will advise.

Ignition/key does have to be on position 1(dash lights on) to read and driver door unlocked afaik..better readings of blocks obviously with engine running (itd be nice to get out of the garage too :lol: )


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > Does the ignition have to be on?
> ...


Yep I clicked save and then tried to run an auto scan as well as scanning specific parts, but it can't communicate with the controller. Yes it's plugged in 

When I try an auto scan, I select the 8N Audi TT 99 - 07. Maybe it's not working cause I'm running windows on a virtual machine?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> I dont know about Mac stuff and the emulation.
> Wot I did
> 1. I thought id have to do all the usb driver loading from the tcd site, but no the vcds software loaded its own driver.
> 
> ...


That's pretty much what I did, yeah. I've been googling about using vcds on a virtual machine but not finding much. I'll keep looking!


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I think engine should be running when doing an autoscan or logging measuringblocks.

Can you go to engine module and then measuring blocks and then number 001 for example? Does it show values like rmp etc?


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

does the orange light on the cable go out when you plug it into the obd port?

Maybe you have to use one of the other options in test like dont use can or something..
My TT is outside in the wet(+ no laptop battery) otherwise Id go out n check.
Have a look thru tcds site, Im sure I saw mac stuff there(if that is the problem)


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> does the orange light on the cable go out when you plug it into the obd port?
> 
> Maybe you have to use one of the other options in test like dont use can or something..
> My TT is outside in the wet(+ no laptop battery) otherwise Id go out n check.
> Have a look thru tcds site, Im sure I saw mac stuff there(if that is the problem)


The orange light on the cable turns green when I plug it into the obd port. On the test screen, I'm using "USB" and these are my settings


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> I think engine should be running when doing an autoscan or logging measuringblocks.
> 
> Can you go to engine module and then measuring blocks and then number 001 for example? Does it show values like rmp etc?


Ah this seems to have worked... well, I went into "Engine" and it loaded some green numbers up. VAG number, component, shop, etc. And then I clicked fault codes and it loaded some fault codes - hurray!


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Well here are the codes that were there. Cleared them so I'll see what comes back.

I have replaced the MAF so hopefully that one will go away...!
Fuel trim bank 1 lean is lambda sensor I'm told.
Charge pressure I dunno, I'll look at the Ross Tech wiki
N249 hopefully will go away now I have a new N249 fitted.


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

And for brakes I had this, everything else looks OK.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Ah ok gtg then.
Maybe steering lock was on or something 
All the logged faults.. autoscan you shouldnt need engine running.
Block reading you can do that too without engine on ,not very informative.
Oh hey Wak suggested to me to log blocks 115 n 118 n probly 120 too from 2000-6000 boot to the floor in 3rd for boosty checking.

I was all set when battery went from 2hrs left to 7% windows shutting down!.

I went ahead and waaayhaay anyway.. went fine..not really great weather for it tho 
Have a look at Wak's site for the usefull blocks.

K footy time.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

Save codes clear drive and retest :mrgreen:


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

Good to hear its now al working!

Now let the logging fun begin :lol:


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

OK, the codes that came back after 40 minutes of driving are these.

Here's the Ross Tech page for the charge pressure error:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17963/P1555/005461

I'm pretty sure the hoses are all fine. I suppose I'll order an N75 from Audi, but what is the 'Charge Pressure Control' and the variable nozzles?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Just ordered N75 from Audi - part number 06A906283E seems to be the right unit from my searching on here (replaced a superseded part with different PN).


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Did you try logging 115/118 and 120 and the vcds graph? like on waks site

eg this bit? esp 118
http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomlive.htm

No faults back on here .. yet,well it was really only the brakeswitch and cc+ it had radio comm intermittent but that was from before the dash fix.

Cant wait to see the estimated torque  block 120..reminds me I must call n see where my laptop battery is!

VN or vnt may be like vvt variable vane turbo's ie just cos a boost fault is listed doesnt mean its a TT specific fault ?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> Did you try logging 115/118 and 120 and the vcds graph? like on waks site
> 
> eg this bit? esp 118
> http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomlive.htm
> ...


I haven't done that yet, I'll have a go this evening!


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Here are two graphs, the first was at a 6000 limit on the Y axis, the second at 8000.

Now, 3TT3 and Beunhaas... if you could decipher it for me please :lol:

Some things I noticed were:

Group 118 boost pressure control (n75) doesn't change from 0% at any point
Group 120 says traction control status "Off"

edit: actually the way they appeared in this post, the 8000 one is first

edit 2: this was 2nd gear 1k rpm through to 4th gear 5500rpm


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

hahah okey, like a said before the scope is fine to do some quick checks while driving but not for real logging like here.

When you have chosen you blocks you want to log click on the log button. The window wil extend and you can give a name to the file. I prefer to give the name the loggingblocks i wanted to meassure. Leave the .CSV at the end of the name.

Now start driving and in 4th gear at around 1500 rpm click 'start' and VCDS starts recording.

Make a single WOT from say 1500 rpm to limiter in 4th gear. (no gear changes!)

After you hit the limiter you can click on 'stop' as soon as you feel comfortable.

Click 'done close' and you have the logged data in an file ready to make a good readable graph in excel.

Open you file in excel and select Column A

Click on the 'data' tab an select the function 'text to columns'

A pop up window appears.

Choose 'delimited' and click 'next'

Select 'Tab' and 'comma' and click 'next'

Select 'general' and click 'finish'

Now you have good readable data

This data can be used to make a good graph from you log

Good luck!


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> hahah okey, like a said before the scope is fine to do some quick checks while driving but not for real logging like here.
> 
> When you have chosen you blocks you want to log click on the log button. The window wil extend and you can give a name to the file. I prefer to give the name the loggingblocks i wanted to meassure. Leave the .CSV at the end of the name.
> 
> ...


I owe you a drink :roll: :lol: 

I'll let you know how I get on


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

OK, have two logs here performed as instructed - one in 3rd gear and one in 4th gear. I've been trying to emulate the features of MS Excel but failing, any chance can I send the .csv files to somebody to make them into graphs for me? :-*


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

mcljot said:


> OK, have two logs here performed as instructed - one in 3rd gear and one in 4th gear. I've been trying to emulate the features of MS Excel but failing, any chance can I send the .csv files to somebody to make them into graphs for me? :-*


Yeah Pm them to me


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > OK, have two logs here performed as instructed - one in 3rd gear and one in 4th gear. I've been trying to emulate the features of MS Excel but failing, any chance can I send the .csv files to somebody to make them into graphs for me? :-*
> ...


You're a star. PM system doesn't accept .csv, can you PM me your email? Cheers


----------



## blz-8027 (Sep 22, 2013)

mcljot said:


> Beunhaas said:
> 
> 
> > mcljot said:
> ...


Save a copy and try changing the csv to xls or xlsm


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

blz-8027 said:


> Save a copy and try changing the csv to xls or xlsm


He has them now, cheers!


----------



## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I dont have excel ..or a spreadsheet as such.

Ill have to investigate some copy/clone.

What I was working on in a crude way is the accell from 2000rpm in one gear yes.
In my case 3rd cos by 7000 rpm your doing 80+ mph.
You can rerun the graph anytime you want tho in vc scope and just show the items youre interested in.
Your'e original graphs your just showing the 1st block line
The ticked boxes are what show in the graph,tick different ones or show different ones in the graphs.
edit nm seems you have some other graphing "stuff'


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> I dont have excel ..or a spreadsheet as such.
> 
> Ill have to investigate some copy/clone.
> 
> ...


Yeah I didn't quite get as far as the limiter in 4th, was going too fast!

I wonder what will show up tho as my problem seems to be more under modest acceleration than wide open throttle.


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

mcljot said:


> 3TT3 said:
> 
> 
> > I dont have excel ..or a spreadsheet as such.
> ...


Mailed you the files with graphs. Did the hesitation occur while doing the log run? Don't see anything special in boost but you can upload the graphs of boost N75 IAT so more people can shed their light at it


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > 3TT3 said:
> ...


Cool, got them. No the hesitation generally only occurs at more modest acceleration. Only once or twice I've noticed it happens on WOT, but I don't go WOT very often. Yep I'll stick the graphs up here. Anyone see anything wrong?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Going to go off and do some more logging now at slower speeds to try and capture the hesitation when it happens.

003 for mass air flow readings
115 for requested boost versus actual boost readings
118 for N75 duty cycle readings
120 for torque readings

Anything else?


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

mcljot said:


> Going to go off and do some more logging now at slower speeds to try and capture the hesitation when it happens.
> 
> 003 for mass air flow readings
> 115 for requested boost versus actual boost readings
> ...


Missfire and timing correction blocks like i mailed you.

Oh and don't know how torque on 120 is calculated but i prefer to divide maf g/s divided by 0.8 to have power and then calculate torque

torque in Nm = ((maf flow / 1.072)*1000)/((RPM/60)*2*3.14)


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Here is my first chart (hurray!)

This is the hesitation captured under modest acceleration.

Looks like the actual boost is much much too high compared to the specified boost, which means the ECU opens the DV to let it all out?


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

For group 118 (N75 duty cycle readings) every entry is 0% from start to finish.

From Wak's website:

"An unenergized solenoid (0% duty cycle) permits full charge pressure on actuator diaphragm. So the turbocharger naturally regulates itself."

I don't quite follow this. So the N75 is fully open all the time, allowing pressure down the hose onto the turbo wastegate actuator. Does this mean the wastegate is permanently open or permanently closed?


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

mcljot said:


> For group 118 (N75 duty cycle readings) every entry is 0% from start to finish.
> 
> From Wak's website:
> 
> ...


Good work!

Wastegate is closed by the internal spring but pushed open at around 5 psi (if i remember right) by the exhaust gasses itself. But this looks promissing in finding your hesitation problem. Maybe the wastgate is sticking. Don't know if that is a common problem with these cars.

BTW, put on the horizontal axis RPM for for mor clarification where in the rev range the problem occurs. If you log a block where there are no RPM add for example block 001 with RPM in it :wink:


----------



## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> mcljot said:
> 
> 
> > For group 118 (N75 duty cycle readings) every entry is 0% from start to finish.
> ...


Hah thanks  8) What does a 0% N75 duty cycle mean exactly, that the wastegate is permanently closed? If my wastegate is stuck closed then does it put the turbo at risk of damage from WOT tests?

I just went for another 10 minute spin to log the timing and missfire blocks, but I couldn't reproduce the hesitation problem. It's definitely worse with a cool engine.


----------



## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

At 0 dutycycle the exhaustgasses push the wastegate open and a spring in the wastegateactuator keeps it close until 5 psi of boost. Then the backpressure gets bigger pushing the wastegate open and the turbo cant make that much more boost that it is producing already. An equilibrium occurs.
The n75 diverts boost that is being produced tot the wastegate actuator and it funtions as a pneumatic ram/cylinder pushing it close to make even more boost.
The n75 can only open or close so pulsing (the % you log) fast it can regulatie how much boost/pressure is send to the wastegate actuator to push it closed. Dutycycle of 100% means all boost/pressure aviable pushes on the wastegate actuator to keep it closed. 
There is a balance in the exhaust backpressure opening the wastegate and the actuator controlled by the n75 to close it.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Beunhaas said:


> At 0 dutycycle the exhaustgasses push the wastegate open and a spring in the wastegateactuator keeps it close until 5 psi of boost. Then the backpressure gets bigger pushing the wastegate open and the turbo cant make that much more boost that it is producing already. An equilibrium occurs.
> The n75 diverts boost that is being produced tot the wastegate actuator and it funtions as a pneumatic ram/cylinder pushing it close to make even more boost.
> The n75 can only open or close so pulsing (the % you log) fast it can regulatie how much boost/pressure is send to the wastegate actuator to push it closed. Dutycycle of 100% means all boost/pressure aviable pushes on the wastegate actuator to keep it closed.
> There is a balance in the exhaust backpressure opening the wastegate and the actuator controlled by the n75 to close it.


Ahhhh I see. That's clever. So my turbo's not at risk?

I don't have a compressor, but maybe I can use a bicycle pump to do this and test the wastegate actuation:


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

easy so worth giving it a try


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Here's the full set of graphs with RPM on the X axis. Boost is dumped by DV at 2500rpm

No need for a graph for the n75 duty cycle (it's just at 0% all the time)


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

So - mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the turbo or the turbo wastegate. Says it's moving freely no problem. Although for the 24 hours he had the car, he couldn't replicate the problem I'm having... so I dunno.

Things left to do are replace the MAP sensor and the pre-cat lambda sensor. Here are some more graphs.... graphs graphs graphs! The block 115 boost pressure graph shows exactly the same overboost condition as the first time I logged 115. The lambda values graph, I dunno much about lambda readings. Does it look OK or no?


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I keep thinking its weird that is starts boosting while de map doesnt ask for it. Soon als it dumps boost it is the hesitation you feel. I do know the ECU allows only for x percentage of overboost before it starts to pull back things.

Maybe other people have an idea why it is probably overboosting :?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

I had over boosting issues and hesitation when my n75 failed and boost was rising past 2bar yes two bar but that's just me saying.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I never did have any logs pre mapping so I dont know how the 225 is supposed to behave normally.

I just know the vcds logs are absolute pressure .
you can take off 1 bar, give or take 20 hpa or wotever on the graphs.

ie roughly 1 bar =15 psi,the normal air pressure without engine on

Ive read 225 boosts to around 1 normal+ 1 turbo boost bar>2bar .. around 15 psi of "boost"

180 turbo goes about 1 normal +.7-.8 say 10 psi of boost.

I think thats how it works/logs . The normal atmospheric pressure might be 990-1010 approx at sea level depending on weather conditions.

My Wakmap,which presumably isnt hugely different to a regular stage one. except better  , goes to about( I dont know for sure) 2.7 bar absolute lets say
So take off 1 bar approx for local pressure on a log and max boost is 24-25 psi, and thats at max torque rpm lets say 4000 rpm. After that it tails off(the boost) gradually.
According to logs it drops to 2.1(absolute) approx at around 7000 rpm. Which is a bit over the standard 225 boost... cos the loony remapee (me) is still looking for more go!

I asked Wak to dial in the potential for 160mph+ actual for my trip to germany :lol: 
ie rev limiter up to 7200 max, + with use of higher tyres on my part raised gearing so potential 160mph(real) not optimistic speedo.No huge bhp drop at upper revs instead a pretty sharp cut at 7200.

He obliged.
The fact that my standard old fuel pump wasnt up to it wasnt his prob(no psychic powers).

The thing is tho , Im not sure testing around where 75 % of torque is supposed to come in will yield any diagnosis results.
Around there.. say 3000 rpm ,there was no sure indication my fuel pump was a bit iffy.
Altho just around there, goin uphill with a gearchange even a downchange seemed to be momenentary limp mode .. shrug.

The only logs that count seem to be floor it from 1500 in 3rd to 6600 on runs or maybe more rpm if the cutout is over 6850.
Pottering around at 2.5 k -3 seems to involve a lot of variables.

I mean 1.4-5 bar doesnt indicate a lot ? thats less than 50% of the max standard boost?


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

blah di blah my boost gauge his 1.5 bar with a generic map and it was very quick compared to the standard ones I test drove. :mrgreen:

Sometimes when driving it hard, the gears couldn't keep up with my changing then as I was way too fast :lol: crunch


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Sandy said:


> blah di blah my boost gauge his 1.5 bar with a generic map and it was very quick compared to the standard ones I test drove. :mrgreen:
> 
> Sometimes when driving it hard, the gears couldn't keep up with my changing then as I was way too fast :lol: crunch


 :lol: yeh , If I had a boost gauge itd go 1.5-1.7 (I think) but mcl's logs ,the posted graphs anyway, arent that 1.4-1.5 , theyre 0.4-0.5 cos its absolute pressure readings and there is no remap involved, not yet anyway and the rpm is a bit low for 0.8-1.0 bar boost.


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## Beunhaas (May 14, 2014)

I do think that a stock k04 can make boost that early. It is only 0.35 bar of boost but i'm sure you can feel that especially if the ecu instantly drops that boost for some reason.

@3TT3
What makes you think logs are only valuable when WOT? Boost actual should follow boost specified at all times although the actual boost lags the specified of course. The ecu allows lower boost actual than specified because of spool but can throw faultcodes for boost leaks. Overboost is only allowed for an x percentage to prevent damage.

And raising the rev limited for a topspeed run is useless because you would need much more power than a remap can give to hit rpm limiter in topgear :wink:


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

In terms of boost,or at least the overboost situation peak seems to come around 3500 depending how much you press the torque demander 
You can get a ecu demand for max boost as low as 2.5 but wont get the boost, unless youre coming down off a hi boost situation already.

Im just thinking a cyclical full throttle approach might identify things easier.
ie going up hill in 3rd full throttle probably hitting max boost say .9 bar ? or 1.9 on vcds if you like then throttle off and or change gear, going from boost on to boost off to on again .
That was where my own prob manifested sometimes(also at hi rpm full throttle)

Part throttle flat torque/boost demand ,perhaps the boost builds anyway a little before dumping.
Ive seen on my logs ,in "normal drivingsituations where the actual boost was much higher than required boost and then it corrects,but it doesnt tell me anything.Not that I'd know :lol: .

It just seems a bit like minor variations is all that will show around 1.5-2.5k when a bit of boost is only starting to come thru.

The rpm/max speed thing
Theoretical of course 
qs 240bhp(237) 240lb/ft torque approx and a bit lighter, max speed (speed limited 155) without limiter.. 158 160?

225bhp(222) 210lb/ft max speed 151-153 on an "all itll do basis" or perhaps rev limiter 6850 rpm normally, I havent seen that the 225 has a definitive speed limiter.

remapped stage 1 225 has at least the potential to hit a real 160 if youre into that sort of thing :twisted: 
So why not have all the variables covered for that holiday to Germany..and also pick up fuel better than the "all thats available" 95 ron Irish stuff.


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## Sandy (May 5, 2014)

3TT3 said:


> Sandy said:
> 
> 
> > blah di blah my boost gauge his 1.5 bar with a generic map and it was very quick compared to the standard ones I test drove. :mrgreen:
> ...


You need to get a boost gauge as it's good to know when you've sprung a leak :lol: 
I wonder if the waste gate is sticking :?

Had mcljot been to see wak?.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I dont have the exp/knowledge to interpret the above graphs, Mcljot's ones ,  

I gave my MAF a clean last night with some isopropyl alcohol(plenty left from wrapping :lol: ) .
Actually just the amm cos the maf unit looked pretty clean when I checked last .(it is the original, made in oct 2002  ), so Im gonna rerun a few logs .
emphasis.. for my own reading on the MAF side.

This part of Wak's stuff could be very helpfull to you too.

http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomamm.htm

note especially the links.
See the first one to the audi tech pdf and testing on 2500-4500 etc
http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/maftecdoc.pdf

and the rest.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hi folks, sorry been busy with Christmas! I haven't been to see Wak, and I don't have a remap of any kind. I am still trying to capture the problem happening on the following blocks:

002, 031
115, 118
003, 020

But typical! Any time I have a free 40 minutes, the problem doesn't happen! [smiley=bomb.gif] :lol:

I'll keep trying and post when I get some results. [smiley=book2.gif]


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I havent been to see the Wiz of 02 either 






maybe we could organise a group car ferry deal :lol:

Then again we have the crap 95 ron fuel and nothing to do about it 

The audi tech document above,linked from Wak's site seems to cover some mid range boost anomalies.. shrug.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hi again folks, merry christmas to you all and I wish you all a 2016 full of trouble-free driving and inexpensive TT repairs! :lol:

I have been doing some more logging and some more thinking/reading and I just wanted to recap my issues for my own clarity as much as anything, and hopefully somebody might see something!

• main problem: hesitation under acceleration at around 2300rpm, feels and sounds like the DV opens and vents my boost and the car bogs down
• engine management light is on (orange)
• recurrent faults are:
- 17544 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add) System too lean
- 16486 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Signal too low (intermittent)
- 17743 Engine Torque Monitor 2 Control Limit Exceeded (intermittent)
• graph of block 115 shows actual boost is much higher than specified boost (causing the DV to open to protect the engine?)

After reading http://auditttuning.org/audi-tt-to-follow/ttweakers-guide/ I have done some more logging. He says that on block 032 if the values for fuel trim at idle or under acceleration are too far away from 0%, it will trigger the engine management light. My values are 7.9% at idle, and between -4.7% and -6.3% under acceleration. Is this a likely cause of my engine light?

I have replaced with genuine Audi parts:
• MAF
• N249
• N75
• Thermostat

and CTS with green Bosch unit

I have also been wondering if another problem I have is related. Sometimes when using cruise control, the power will suddenly disappear and the EPC and TC lights will come on. The engine doesn't stall but is stuck at around 900rpm (accelerator does nothing). With ignition off and on, the car runs OK again. I was wondering if this limp mode is caused by the overboost seen in block 115? I.e. limp mode is triggered to protect the engine from the overboost. But if this is the case, then why doesn't limp mode occur during normal driving with cruise control turned off?

As always - all thoughts and opinions greatly appreciated! [smiley=book2.gif]


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

Have you only logged with VCDS? What is your sample rate for logging? On some of your graphs iv seen 1.1 samples per second which is not very good for logs tbh. Have you tried using Me7logger? iv just started using ME7 logger and get values from 23 measuring blocks (AFR, boost, n75, MAF, throttle pos etc) every 0.04 of a second - thats a sample rate of 25/s.

IF you want a hand getting ME7 logger working let me know 

Re fuel trims. The engine light will come on anything either side of +/- 25 percent.

btw, are you sure you have no leaks from any vac lines, pvc etc?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

intott said:


> Have you only logged with VCDS? What is your sample rate for logging? On some of your graphs iv seen 1.1 samples per second which is not very good for logs tbh. Have you tried using Me7logger? iv just started using ME7 logger and get values from 23 measuring blocks (AFR, boost, n75, MAF, throttle pos etc) every 0.04 of a second - thats a sample rate of 25/s.
> 
> IF you want a hand getting ME7 logger working let me know
> 
> ...


Yeah only logged with VCDS. I started logging just two blocks at a time so the sample rate would improve, I think I got 4 per second on the last log I did. Never tried Me7logger - sounds impressive though. I'll google it and let you know if I need a hand, thanks very much!

Re: fuel trims; so my values are well within acceptable range then at +7.9% and -6.3%?

I'm pretty sure but I will go over the whole thing again (again!). Can I pressurise the PCV hoses?


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## intott (Apr 7, 2015)

just to help

http://www.audizine.com/forum/archive/i ... 79416.html

All it needs is a £11 cable from Ebay, download two zip files (i can send you the TT ECU file) and your done.

I would have been surprised if your fuel trims were causing the code at those levels.

No you shouldn't pressurise the PVC system - its not designed to be pressurised. is there is a leak, you will find oil on the pipe that leaking.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

intott said:


> just to help
> 
> http://www.audizine.com/forum/archive/i ... 79416.html
> 
> ...


Fab, thanks!

Cool, good to know. Could you suggest a cause for my fuel trim code?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

OK, well - cleared the codes the other day as I seem to do every other day :lol: and then as soon as the engine management light came back on, I pulled over and checked to see what codes had come back and the only one was the Fuel Trim fault. Does that mean the fuel trim is triggering the engine management light or is that not conclusive? Correlation ≠ causation, and all that.

I had another idea then, y'see my auto scan function doesn't work on my VCDS (not sure why) so I was manually checking for fault codes all along, and only looking in a few obvious places. I checked a few other places and in the AWD I found I have had a fault for a faulty brake light switch all along (cleared, and it came back, cleared again and it came back). This explains my cruise control issue I'm reckoning, so I've ordered a new one anyway. *BUT* is it possible that the brake light switch is causing my boost dumping as well? i.e. the car thinks the brake is being applied so it cuts the accelerator and dumps the boost even while I'm still accelerating? If the switch is FUBAR and is randomly activating itself, then it could be the cause of the whole bogging down acceleration problem. Only problem with that theory is that the bogging down seems to happen fairly consistently in the same rpm range (2200rpm - 2500rpm) so it's not all that random.

I suppose I'll find out when I fit the new switch.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

When my brake switch went , I didnt notice at first I got a few flashes from other motorists..whats his prob :lol: 
The brake lights werent working.
I turned cc on.. nothing happened.. wth.
At home I did an autoscan (Yeh I know yours doesnt autoscan for some reason).
Mine came up with brake light switch bad intermittent signal in one section, then in awd section the same thing.

The awd /haldex section:Ive read that even if your brake switch is ok you should pump the pedal before scan, with cable connected ,so you dont get an error..its on the ross tech site somewhere.
My switch was borked anyway like yours I guess.

Everything else seemed ok while driving,maybe 4wd/abs wasnt cutting in cant say, but the engine running seemed as normal.
Not good news as regards the strange boost when it isnt requested thingy.

Did you check the vag pdf bulletin from Wak's site I linked ,for causes?

Since your on standard map

Fuel trim errors seem to be down to Maf positioning or air leaks according to that too.

The thing about WOT full wellie testing, well you know how Wak diagnosed my fuel pump.On the injection duty cycle at hi rpms. I eventually worked out how to calculate the injection duty cycle :lol: 
None of the fuel starvation symptoms were obvious on a normal drive ..had to be redlined in 3rd to get a full picture.

Am I saying its your fuel pump..no not at all.

I never did any logs before remap so I dont know how the car would have measured but I did have some weirdy part throttle..its gone dead type things like it momentarily went into limp mode n so on even after remap but not after fuel pump change.

Aug 2014

1. Got my used TT.. seemed very quick  
Hit 120+ without even realising it very easily (allegedly  )
A fair few of the usual 10 year old + TT problems, but most of that is in my build thread.

2.Engine seemed good pulling strong , I was unused to a turbo petrol , any lil hiccups , I assumed were part of the hi perf turbo setup off boost/on boost n stuff 

3. right since it seemed ok lets go for the stage 1 or stage 1/2 remap...waffle waffle more story.Wak did it but informed me he would prefer some logs beforehand.
At that stage I had no vcds.He suggested as a minimum itd be prudent to check the actuator was starting to move at about 5-6 psi. This I did(roughly) with a lidl handy bicycle foot pump and inaccurate pressure gauge  but it was moving around the 5-10 psi mark :lol: .

Some of the reason for that I think was to ensure (a) it was working and (b) that it hadnt been adjusted before by a "home tuner" which could throw the remap out.
Ecu hadnt been touched before 

4. Ecu back n fitted,cc fitted by me in the meantime(Wak enabled cc on the ecu , while he had it) and also dloaded security code for extra key progamming ,all gratis.
Out on the road.. wahaaay you de man , Im de man etc .. all the usual.
However it was still a lil rough/ hiccupy , usually after a run uphill about 5500 in second lets say then drooped to 4k maybe in 3rd and it went a bit duhhhh for a min.. just occasionally.

5.from there as you know I replaced the n249 valve with genuine,resistance readings on it didnt seem right., might have improved things not sure.All this time Id be checking hoses n so on.. couldnt find any bad ones.
The main crankbreather one into the air intake(after the valve) was in a bad state all soft n so on but no visible holes/ cracks.
I replaced that with a silicon one.
The N75..its still the old one but I finger tested it :lol: and it is 710N

6. I didnt do much else before the vcds arrived /around the same time as yours..Changed plugs for ngk copper ones and other bits n pieces.

7. The logging.(mapped)
Full WOT logs showed the fuel pump problem at hi rpm.

Even showed (to Wak) that MAF might/might not be 100%

Wot Id suggest.. aside from why are part throttle logs not usefull?
After brake switch replace ...hey who knows maybe thats all it needs(fingers xed)
Wait n see how it feels/drives.
Im thinking btw of all the bits you replaced already.
If it isnt right
1. do the actuator pressure check.
If thas good and the rod starts to move around the 5-6 psi mark
(you did get the coilpack replace thing or a np on misfire log before this?)

2. clear all the codes, if any new ones have appeared and then do the WOT dance in 3rd gear when fully warmed up. Log 2 blocks at a time of the 6 main modules in a 2 way run go all the way from 1500-6850 or whatever it is the standard rev limiter is at.
ie get your set log place . then when its clear trickle off in 1st, go into second trickle up to 2000 go to 3rd rp floor it at 1500 to 6850 or whatever it wont go above then at 85 mph or whatever it is either change up to 4thor let the revs drop off as you approach the turnaround.
Then repeat going the other way back to log set point.
then go again for the other blocks.

Whas that do 
Well you can see hopefully what all the bits do under maximum stress.

Then maybe for example you can check your partial throttle/very small throttle logs against the full wellie ones.
Like the actual boost curve(when no boost is requested), is that the same as the boost curve when max boost is requested at similar rpm when the engine is under full load up until the boost is cut..

lets say at 2250 rpm or whatever it is, that the turbo(if nothing else was acting on it) would give the unrequested boost your getting. all the 2250 rpm exhaust energy is going to the turbo and its compressing the air to give boost , which would I guess keep cycling higher and higher as rpm went up, more boost , more rpm , more fuel and so on till big bang...
What can you do simply?

?.
First would have to be (mho) throttle body reset no biggie with vcds(I found)
Whether it needs a clean or not,shrug
I havent touched mine, maybe the millers additive is cleaning the tb with crank gas as well as supposedly boosting the ron :lol:

The throttle body is a little like a carburettor except it doesnt see any petrol, an air butterfly valve.
I used to experiment with gas flowing carburettors, various jet sizes /making the carb butterfly valves like an aerofoil n so on.
Ive read , if you go pratting around like that with the TT throttle body, itll totally fook everything. Just a clean might b good 

What else on the mechanical side.
Turbo actuator check it begins to operate at the correct pressure or thereabouts.The threading on the arm and how you can tell if its been moved or not after x years no idea.

Hose leaks.One thing , Im fairly sure mine has never been "tuned/mapped" before.
Yours sounds similar. so?
A performance map in itself on the 222/225 might not shorten the engine life much as there is a good bit of overhead in the components but:
Under bonnet temps get toasty, mapped theyre gonna get toastier still.If mine had been 10 years mapped Id imagine the hoses would have been more temp stressed.
Still have another visual check especially at the known problem areas.Under intake manifold, boost to fpr hose , the vac/boost hose at the far left of the intake manifold etc.

The valves, like in the n249 system ,theres a couple more, one right in the middle of the 4 branches of the intake manifold , etc.

The crank gas breather system: Like I said my cbt to intake hose was soft n also full of gooey brown stuff.
I dunno what the actual cbt valve or its 2 inlet hoses are like  . I should check

The other air inlets, like from the dv valve and their connections to the TIP .Leakage cant see any.

Thre is some youtube vid where the whole standard TIP collapses under load,only for a short time at hi load, but if the rubber gets used to bending that way,maybe it can happen at low load.
:lol: maybe I will invest in a 3" silicon tip pipe after all.

Thats all I can think of atm.


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Wow, lots in there!

I'm pretty sure my brake switch was bad... only ended up costing me €15 though and it was throwing a recurrent fault so no biggy if the new one does nothing.

Re: AWD/Haldex; I don't think I've ever had mine working properly - quite easy to lose her on wet roundabouts and it flashes the traction control light at me for even the most gentle naughty moments :roll: Also sometimes the TC light comes on and stays on for no reason at all (somebody here advised me it was the Haldex controller that caused the same for them).

Fuel trim error: MAF or air leaks... I will ask Audi to replace the new MAF they gave me in case it's bad. Wonder if they will? Can only try! I'll keep looking for air leaks. Are there any other causes of fuel trim error? Lambda sensor, no?

I'll plug in my bike pump to the wastegate actuator again and check the psi it opens at.

I'm pretty sure my ECU is unaltered but can't be 100%.

My car had the coilpack recall a long time ago I think, I asked Audi about it and they told me a date but can't remember. I did some logging for misfiring and didn't find anything, but this was during the week of logging when I wasn't able to capture the problem occurring. So maybe it is misfiring when the problem occurrs? I am buying the ECS timing belt kit from AwesomeGTI in the next few days so and I'm thinking of getting new plugs at the same time as I read on here that some people have cured a similar problem with new plugs. Are these the ones you got, or how are these rated? http://www.awesomegti.com/car/audi/tt8n/ngk-iridium-x-spark-plug-set-1-8-20v-turbo

I've done quite a lot of logging as you describe, late night straight stretch of main road, up and back and up and back but never capturing the problem occurring. So when I compare actual vs specified boost between the moderate throttle and WOT logs, the moderate throttle (that captured the problem) shows way high actual boost and the WOT throttle shows consistent good ratio between actual and specified boost. Actual boost is always within kind of 35mbar of specified (sometimes above but more often below).

Throttle body reset: cool I will look into this.

Integrity of hoses: honestly they all look and feel very good with quite a few new hoses (previous owner). They were very gunky underneath the intake manifold, I didn't remove them just felt them. What is the boost to fpr hose? There is only one hose which looks a little perished, below-left the charge pipe going left across near/underneath the power steering reservoir. What is the cbt to intake hose?

I've seen the video of the TIP collapsing. Could well be my problem, just like a million other things! I'd love a 3" silicone TIP but I haven't got the £140 or so right now.

Thanks for the big write up, much appreciated.

One last thing - the spark plugs in that link above says they're pre-gapped. I'm guessing they're plug and play? A quick Google search reveals it's easy to do it but would be handy not to have to.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

just trying to toss out anything that might be relevant

Lambda sensor n the like I thought you got replacement parts there?

The MAF,could it be bad..I dont know.. did you ever log with the old one and the new one for comparrison? or was it an exchange part?
Plugs..I suppose what you have in now are ngk 6 platinum or maybe the bosch type.

The plugs I got were for the "tuned a bit" 1.8T copper core type NGKBKR7E and self gapped to .7mm
Theres threads around on the plug types which is better which isnt etc 
The copper core cos of the fat centre electrode are supposedly better for heat disipation at hirpm boost.. and the egt can get kinda hi.
Some others here say the 7E's can lead to a rough idle shrug .The 7's are a colder plug than 6 in the ngk range but in Bosch 6 is colder than 7 [smiley=rolleyes5.gif] 
Colder plug can withstand higher temps without developing hotspots, but if you go too cold a grade it might foul up with deposits when engine is cold /misfire at low speed /richer mix running.
Oh theyre cheap too.. the copper ones like 10 quid a set  Im all for hi performance spark plugs!

Iridium(I think) are kind of the best bits of copper and the best bits of platinum combined , not sure.
Copper plugs are easy to regap cos theyre quite thick , the others not so cos its easy to damage the smaller electrodes or scrape off the precious metal.

Wak posted some pic of "here lads look at this crap" ngk plats he took out of some customers car some time ago.. should be easy to find... at least youll be able to see what your plugs look like now when changing.Mine seemed okish.
Youll need a long reach plug spanner and the nice members on here recommend a magnetic grip one.. I got the rubber grip type


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> just trying to toss out anything that might be relevant
> 
> Lambda sensor n the like I thought you got replacement parts there?
> 
> ...


Lambda sensor I never pulled the trigger on in the end! I wasn't convinced mine was bad after doing some logging.

No I never logged with the old MAF, and yes it was a refurbished part on an exchange basis. I will ask them for another one tomorrow... fingers crossed.

That plug talk went over my head a bit! I won't be remapping or running anything other than standard, except maybe a TIP in the future. You said there was a set for £10, are the ones I linked for £35 really 3 and a half times better?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

mcljot said:


> I won't be remapping or running anything other than standard, except maybe a TIP in the future. You said there was a set for £10, are the ones I linked for £35 really 3 and a half times better?


I got the ngk BKr7E's for 4 euro n something each from Micks garage and free postage cos they were included in a larger order.Theyre supposed to be better for a mapped engine than the 3.5 times the price ones 
Ive seen them as cheap as 8 pound for 4 on ebay(usually only free post to UK  ).

One disadvantage of the copper core old style plugs is that they wont last as long as the fancier metal ones .
Copper core 15000 miles say and fancy metal ones  40-50000 maybe. I wouldnt fancy leaving any plugs in that long!.
But for hi perf hi cyl temps the copper supposed to be the best.

Your hoping that a plug change will have some effect on "the running problem" and no remapping going to be involved,for now.
Then wot you want ( I'd say) is the NGK BKR6E (manf number 6962 , I believe).

With those youd have brand new plugs and youd know cheaply whether they had any effect on the prob and they last ok.

Gapping.
Be carefull when buying that you get the BKR6E type, not BKR6E-11 
I bought BKR7E-11 at my local motorfactors for 20 euro (I returned them).
The 11 stands for 1.1 mm otherwise the plug is the same.1.1mm is about .44"
The regular plug without the -11 is only about .8mm gap when you get it so its easy to bend to .7mm.
The other one you would have a big angle in the plug gap,after bending , if that makes sense.

Its a little hotter than the 7E and is the same heat grade as the standard rec ngk platinums ie 6

If you do buy some

edit: Just saw this post: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1190834

Any chance something like this is going on?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> I got the ngk BKr7E's for 4 euro n something each from Micks garage and free postage cos they were included in a larger order.Theyre supposed to be better for a mapped engine than the 3.5 times the price ones
> Ive seen them as cheap as 8 pound for 4 on ebay(usually only free post to UK  ).
> 
> One disadvantage of the copper core old style plugs is that they wont last as long as the fancier metal ones .
> ...


Don't think my wires are nibbled but I'll double check everything!

Micksgarage the only NGK plugs they have for my reg number are €14.45 a pop and don't have any product number on them? http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails. ... carid=9903

Halfords have the BKR6E for like €40 or something outrageous. I use parcel motel or the new parcel wizard for free UK delivery. Works a treat.

Might just go for a Contitech timing belt kit from Micks instead of the ECS from AwesomeGTI. Always decent discounts on Micks, I emailed to check exactly what comes in that kit.

https://secure.micksgarage.com/proddeta ... 6&pk=B93A1


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Use the online chat feature ,daytime

Tell them you are looking for NGK BKR6E spark plugs or BKR7E.

They dont list them as standard , just like if you went into your local motor shop ,they wouldnt be listed as standard either.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/like/15135246087 ... rmvSB=true


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Cool, ordered a nice bundle of stuff and got €50 discount for using PART15 at checkout! 8)

Audi are gonna run their own diagnostics and if they see a MAF fault, they'll give me a new one. Now I just need to wait for the fault to come back.


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Hmm thas over 300 euro if my maths are right :lol: ,I hope its good stuff!


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

3TT3 said:


> Hmm thas over 300 euro if my maths are right :lol: ,I hope its good stuff!


I went mad, sure!  Got a few toys and an oil pan and other stuff. Car is performing very badly today, so it wasn't the brake switch (didn't really think it would be...). *sigh*


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

I've just done some more logging this afternoon.

• Capturing the problem, I have very consistent logs now showing way high actual boost over specified boost leading up to the problem. I'm still assuming this overboost triggers the DV to open, but what might be causing the overboost?

The following are all on 3rd gear WOT runs to the redline (so when the problem doesn't occur)

• I'm maxing out boost at 11.9psi at 5800rpm

• Timing retardation: cylinder 2 goes up to 5.3 above 5800rpm. Cylinder 1 and 4 are max 3.3 and 3.8. From reading the tweaker guide blog, this doesn't seem to be too much

• Max air flow is 183g/s at 5800rpm

• Lambda values specified and actual are pretty much the same all the time at 0.953, except when slowing from a WOT run. When the revs are coming back down past 5000rpm, specified is 1.047 and actual goes up to 1.991.

• Engine load on all blocks goes up to max 162% at around 5700rpm?

• Injection timing: accelerator to the floor at 1500rpm, injection timing is starts at 8.8ms and goes up 14.6 by 2700rpm, and stays there until I release the throttle

• Fuel trim: at idle it's +7.9% all the time, and under acceleration (partial) it goes from -3.1 to -3.9. I have a fuel trim fault on VCDS which triggers the orange check engine light (17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add) System too Lean)

Overall the car seemed slow today on these runs. It used to be that I'd be pushed into the seat on a 3rd gear WOT run but doesn't seem as aggressive any more... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Any of this mean anything to anyone? Going a bit mad at this stage and am growing afraid that whatever's wrong is causing damage elsewhere!


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Some more logging results:

• MAF at idle is registering only 1.3g/s to 1.5g/s. Should be between 2 and 4g/s so I'm guessing the MAF is not good.

• Block 030 Lambda Control Status, with revs at 2krpm the first field alternated between 111 and 011 as it should but the second field stayed at 000 for a long time until I went for a drive, then it changed between 010 and 110 very very slowly. Like one change a minute.

• Block 037 Lambda System Diagnosis at idle the value in field 2 stayed at .450V and when I went driving it went crazy, from 0.035 up to 0.89. This means my cat converter is fooked?


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Hi folks. Replaced my whole PCV system and repaired the hard pipes, there were some leaks there. Have driven 15 miles since and no engine light or lean fault code so far, but my boost problem is still there.

Audi tested my MAF (not sure what they did) and informed me it's working fine (I had tried to get a warranty replacement).

Is it time for a lambda replacement? Can anyone interpret the readings in the post above?


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## 3TT3 (Aug 30, 2014)

Wish I had some info/suggestions but my knowledge such as it is :lol: is kinda exhausted.

You found cracked hoses n thought all would be good now, but not so?

The lambda thing ,you were gonna buy some sensor replacement at one time but passed on that for wotever reason ?

The lambda readings (mixture ?).. (and I never did get any standard 225 readings) Ive never seen readings like those /no readings at all. Most of the time its close enough to 1.0 both columns when logging that you dont notice much diff.

Sure theres some as low as .98 or high as 1.02 in normal driving around and then say .89- .785 at full wellie hi egt rich mix.

Apparently the hi idle from cold is that rich too, like .85 according to MM, , Ive never checked wi my vcds.

-----------------------------------------------
What do your readings show now? I mean what has changed from jan 16th until today?
Maybe even the ecu has to relearn a little? 15 miles isnt a lot.. new plugs in n all that stuff,differences to before ?
What were the old ones like?

Hard pipes? you mean like the metal one running over the top rhs of the engine?..
You showed your crack before..!  what other ones were there?
I wonder is my lhs of the engine elbow boost pipe that a lot moan about gone?..dunno, but Im not going to take it off just for the security of looking, when the car is going ok.

You could allways get one of these a/f ratio gauges ..the china cheap gauges I got do one . our sensors are wideband( I think) early tt's Ive read were narrowband..all you have to do is splice into the sensor wire to the ecu(pity the egt gauge doesnt work like that).

Give it 100 miles +, sounds like it is at least no worse than it was before? and do a few logs probably not WOT atm.. you changed the belt n stuff too? Howd the NCT go?

Gauges..I shoulda trained as a surgeon  .even the oil p one,using the standard blank plug,had to take off the alternator cable bracket n bend some switch holder about 80 degrees, and also tilt it slightly to the front so that it barely clears the oil dipstick pipe and allows sensor fitment.
If that blanking plug is locked solid,when I come to remove it , I think my boot will make several large impressions on the front end of my well loved TT.

I just mention this in the sense of "everything isnt all calm and meditation" in west cork TT land either 
Wot a pia..


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## mcljot (Sep 20, 2015)

Ha you're grand!

Found cracked hoses and hoped it might have fixed the problem, but it hasn't. Although obviously the hoses needed replacing, so that's grand anyhow. The problem _might_ be improved, I haven't been able to tell yet. In which case fixing leaks is helping but there are probably more leaks.

Yeah I never replaced the lambda as I wasn't convinced it was faulty and last week Wak didn't see a problem with it from my air/fuel logging. Gonna throw the car into the NCT (booked for Feb 9th) and see what it comes back with and go from there. I was wondering if the ECU needs to re-learn, so will see what happens in another 100 miles. Yep new belt and pump and tensioner.

Hard pipes that were damaged were the PCV hard pipes underneath the inlet manifold (brake pipes I believe).

Glad to hear you're having some difficulty :lol:    :roll: :twisted:


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